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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <01fe01c33f52$4607f2a0$d1754ed5@pavilion>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kid's in Elizabethan costume ?
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 01:01:19 +0200
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Hi,
That was a shame, i intented to send you a link to Ninya Mikhailas
historical costumes, she had made a lovely dress for a little girl with
bumroll and standing ruff, but i just checked her site and there was no link
to it anymore.
Sorry

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk>
To: "LIST H costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, June 30, 2003 11:55 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Kid's in Elizabethan costume ?


> Kid's in Elizabethan costume ?
>
> Does anyone have any pics of kids in Elizabethan costume they can send me
> direct tonight please ?
>
> I have had a request to show some at my daughter's school tomorrow,
nothing
> like lots of notice !
>
> Thanks
>
> Mel
>
> This e-mail, and any attachment, is confidential. If you have received
> it in error, please delete it from your system, do not use or disclose
> the information in any way, and notify me immediately. The contents of
> this message may contain personal views which are not the views of the
> Company, unless specifically stated.
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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>


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jun 30 19:08:05 2003
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 01:10:36 +0200
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Subject: [h-cost] my dress
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Hi.
I really enjoyed that you all liked my new dress. Thanks for all your feed
backs.
I am happy two, that it finally is finished. Ill ship it to the USA
tomorrow, sigh, just like saying goodbye to an old friend.
But i am also happy to get rid of it, because it has taken up a lot of space
( i live in a small flat)
You know, now i know how it feels, like the big designers say, that they are
never satisfied with their work, and they will never be, i feel like that
two. There were things i could have made better, but then again, next time
maybe it gets better...........
I know i am crazy but i start a new thing tomorrow. That thing i want to
give away as a gift for a lady i am going to escort for an 18th century
party in a castle garden in Sweden. Well i told you that i wanted to make a
robe anglaise, but i have changed my mind. I want to make her a Caraco
jacket in pearl grey damask and i have some leftover from the embroidered
dress, so i could make a blue skirt to go with the jacket. Then i have some
silver bobbin lace i could trim the jacket with. I made the lace myself.

Many greetings and thanks.....................

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jun 30 19:32:00 2003
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Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 16:31:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: KATHRYN WOLTERS <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Orkney
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I'm a little late in getting to my e-mail--but what a wonderful surprise to find someone else was in  Orkney in '87:) And what a treat to have worked on an archeaological dig there!I'm green with envy.
Many of my  best travel memories--are from being in the Orknies in late May of '87. We went there on a whim . Intriqued by the history and pictures we'd seen in books on ancient sites, and because my mom's folks had supposedly had ties there a couple of hundred years ago--we headed straight for there--as soon as we landed in Britain from the States:) We were not disappointed . We fell in love with the area----the old ruins--and the people. I particularly remember wandering around town at 11:30 at night, and it being bright as noon day(.THAT did take some getting used to)The countryside was beautiful. The people were  very personable and helpful. It was funny to hear one of the tour guides translating the Viking 'graffetti '  for us scrawled on  the inside of one of the behive tombs:)  Also memorable--looking out to sea over the windsweep hills from Skara Brea, and  visiting the other prehistoric sites hat left me feeling deeply moved. I've promised myself I'll go back one da!
 y.

Freyalyn Close-Hainsworth <lynn@close-hainsworth.fslife.co.uk> wrote:
as well as to some more remote and uncommercialised
> sites. I loved the way the Ring of Brodgar and the Stones of Stenness
> are visible from one another.

There is a theory that the prehistoric sites at Orkney were all part of a
great ritual procession from one to another - I love to imagine progressions
of people in the incredibly long light evenings that far north. And I'd
forgotten the tiny circular church - I worked on Earl's Bu, the longhouses
of the Earls of Orkney, and I was there when we found the souterrain and the
gold bracelet.

Freyalyn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Finished the robe francaise
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Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/the_finished_dress.htm

Bjarne it's i truly wonderful:) I just hope the lady who is getting it 
will take photos so we can see how it looks on her too:)

She's going to wow them in the dress wherever she goes:)

michaela
http://glittersweet.com





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Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 19:35:17 -0700
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Revolution in Fashion.
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Any idea where this page went?

>For those of you, who never got the book, here is a page with lots of the
>pictures from the book:
>http://www.angelfire.com/retro/thefansite/text/fangallery4.html


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
             ////-@@\\\
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Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 22:11:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: KATHRYN WOLTERS <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Finished the robe francaise
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What an exquisite work of art, Bjarne!! 
How very inspiring!
Albra

michaela <thebruce@ihug.co.nz> wrote:
Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/the_finished_dress.htm

Bjarne it's i truly wonderful:) I just hope the lady who is getting it 
will take photos so we can see how it looks on her too:)

She's going to wow them in the dress wherever she goes:)

michaela
http://glittersweet.com





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Date: Tue, 01 Jul 2003 01:22:28 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mn.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Melanie's underwear
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At 12:23 PM 6/30/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>Danielle Nunn-Weinberg wrote:
>
>>I've actually had 1/2 spring steel twist on one occasion.  It was in my 
>>effigy style corset in the larger front channels which originally held 
>>the wider whale bones <...>  Initially I used a double layer of spring 
>>steel but they noticably twisted, the twist lessened when I removed one 
>>from each casing.  It was quite odd but that is the *only* time I've ever 
>>encountered it.
>
>That's odd.  Are the channels straight?  Do they stay straight when you 
>lace it up?  The only way I can think that the bones might twist is if the 
>channels were curving--like if you could lace the top and the bottom 
>together but not the middle.

I will have to double check but I think part of it was the way it fits over 
the body curves...that and the casing isn't a perfect rectangle, it is 
wedge shaped, wider at the top like the original (which of course had 
whalebone cut to fit).

Cheers,
Danielle

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Date: Tue, 01 Jul 2003 01:25:32 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mn.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Revolution in Fashion.
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At 05:52 PM 6/30/2003 +0200, you wrote:
>Hi.
>For those of you, who never got the book, here is a page with lots of the
>pictures from the book:
>http://www.angelfire.com/retro/thefansite/text/fangallery4.html
>
>Bjarne

I tried it out but just got an error page.  I wonder if the person had to 
take it down for copyright reasons...

Cheers,
Danielle - the Revolution in Fashion deprived  : )

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Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 23:27:13 -0700
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] my dress
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At 01:10 AM 7/1/2003 +0200, you wrote:
>You know, now i know how it feels, like the big designers say, that they are
>never satisfied with their work, and they will never be, i feel like that
>two. There were things i could have made better, but then again, next time
>maybe it gets better...........


Thank you for saying this. Now I don't feel so alone in my doubts when I 
finished a German waffenrock and felt it was not right and got depressed 
and doubted my skills, even tho I never made anything like that before.

It will get better each time, won't it. I can't wait to see what you come 
up with next. And the silver bobbin lace... I didn't know you did that too. 
My what talents you have.

And yes, I will add myself to the rest. Your gown in just beautiful. I 
don't have any words to justify the beauty of it. Bravo!!

Kimiko



Kimiko Small
Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
kimiko@kimiko1.com; http://www.kimiko1.com
"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul  1 03:23:57 2003
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Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 08:23:19 +0100 (BST)
From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Revolution in Fashion.
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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No, but Angelfire does not allow deep linking, go to here:

http://www.angelfire.com/retro/thefansite/

Nicole

> I tried it out but just got an error page.  I wonder if the person had to 
> take it down for copyright reasons...
> 
> Cheers,
> Danielle - the Revolution in Fashion deprived  : )
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

=====
Men Die. Cattle Die. Word-Fame Lives Forever.      ~ Old Norse Aphorism

Email: nicole@kipar.org
URL: http://www.kipar.org

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Date: Tue, 01 Jul 2003 02:40:48 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mn.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Revolution in Fashion.
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At 08:23 AM 7/1/2003 +0100, you wrote:
>No, but Angelfire does not allow deep linking, go to here:
>
>http://www.angelfire.com/retro/thefansite/
>
>Nicole
>
> > I tried it out but just got an error page.  I wonder if the person had to
> > take it down for copyright reasons...
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Danielle - the Revolution in Fashion deprived  : )

Hi Nicole,

Actually I had tried that way as well and still got errors...that is why I 
thought the page might have been removed.

Cheers,
Danielle

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Hello
I am sorry that the page does not work anymore. Perhaps it is the traffic
that got two big.
It was a lace- lady i know who sended me the link, and i passed it on to
you, because i thoaght you wanted to have a look.
Oh boy, perhaps i should never had done that.............

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul  1 04:10:20 2003
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Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 09:09:33 +0100 (BST)
From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Revolution in Fashion.
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Oh, okay, sorry for that then.

Nicole
> 
> Hi Nicole,
> 
> Actually I had tried that way as well and still got errors...that is why I 
> thought the page might have been removed.
> 
> Cheers,
> Danielle
> 
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> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

=====
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Email: nicole@kipar.org
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul  1 08:57:48 2003
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Revolution in Fashion.
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I get errors all the time for sites that are just fine - try again a 
little later?  (It just worked for me)

H L

N Kipar wrote:

>Oh, okay, sorry for that then.
>
>Nicole
>  
>
>>Hi Nicole,
>>
>>Actually I had tried that way as well and still got errors...that is why I 
>>thought the page might have been removed.
>>
>>Cheers,
>>Danielle
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
>>    
>>
>
>=====
>Men Die. Cattle Die. Word-Fame Lives Forever.      ~ Old Norse Aphorism
>
>Email: nicole@kipar.org
>URL: http://www.kipar.org
>
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>  
>

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...the one that worked was the one you (Nicole) suggested.
Sorry
HL

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For a report on the Earl's Bu excavations, see
http://www.sair.org.uk/sair4/index.html 



Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby
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Subject: [h-cost] date for mid-16th-century portrait?
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Greetings to all

Can anyone give me a date for this portrait?

http://infotrope.net/sca/textiles/costume/pemberton/blackmary.jpg

Thanks,
Melanie Schuessler
http://www.faucet.net/costume

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Every reference I can find for this portrait says "date unknown".

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Melanie Schuessler" <melanie@faucet.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 01, 2003 11:16 AM
Subject: [h-cost] date for mid-16th-century portrait?


> Greetings to all
> 
> Can anyone give me a date for this portrait?
> 
> http://infotrope.net/sca/textiles/costume/pemberton/blackmary.jpg
> 
> Thanks,
> Melanie Schuessler
> http://www.faucet.net/costume
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
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From: "David" <someone@eskimo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20030515081030.66508.qmail@web40020.mail.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Advice wanted for an England trip
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 10:29:49 -0700
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Dear Rachel,

I've been keeping your note in my inbox until I got things straightened out
enough to know what I'd be doing when, and where.

While I love Elizabethan, and would love to see Sulgrave Manor, I just don't
think it's going to happen, especially since I don't plan on renting a car
(I'm terrified of the idea of driving on the left, my brain just doesn't
make those kind of adjustments).

Thank you so much for telling me about it, even if I can't go!

Pam Dotson
Everett, WA  USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rachel" <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2003 1:10 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Advice wanted for an England trip


> Hi Pam,
>
> Well there is lots you can do in August.  Musuem wise there is the
Victoria and Albert Museum,
> British Museum, Museum of London all in London as well as lots more
smaller museums and the art
> galleries as well.
>
> Hampton Court Palace is well worth a visit and fairly easy to get to on
the train from London
> (Waterloo Station every 30 mins to Hampton Court), Buckingham Palace
should be open to the public
> and it's worth going to see the Royal Collection which is a separate bit
in a building on the same
> site, they have an exhibition of sketches by da Vinci at the moment, may
still be on in August but
> you should be able to check over the internet.  Windsor Castle is another
good place to visit.
>
> I don't know what period in history you are particularly interested in but
if Elizabethan is up
> your street you can come and pay my group a visit (The Tudor Group) as we
will be doing our week
> long inhabitation of a lower gentry house in August (see
www.tudorgroup.co.uk) for more details.
> It's outside London but not too difficult to get to if you hire a car.
>
> You should probably take the opportunity of touring round the country a
bit as there are some real
> treasures outside of London.
>
> Let me know if I can be any more help.
>
> Rachel
>
>
> > From: "David" <someone@eskimo.com>
> > Subject: [h-cost] Advice wanted for an England trip
> > To: <HistoricKnit@yahoogroups.com>, <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Message-ID: <01f501c31a36$c9ee4e20$5b0ebbd0@bently>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> >
> > Since I never thought I'd actually ever wind up going to England, I
never
> > paid too much attention to which museums and the like people said
> > interesting pieces were in.  Now, as kind of a reward for getting
through my
> > lung cancer treatment, my parents are going to send me there, probably
for
> > most of August.  I'll most likely spend the bulk of my time in London,
but
> > can go anywhere I want, if there's something worth going there for.
> >
> > Overall, I'm an all-things-fiber addict, with a strong bias towards
anything
> > over a thousand years old, and an unexpected weakness for Edwardian
gowns.
> > I'm the sort who would happily spend several hours in front of the same
> > case, trying to trace thread paths, and making notes (heaven help me!).
So,
> > where would you recommend I go, and what should I see?  And do you have
any
> > great advice as to where I should stay while I'm seeing it?
> >
> > Thank you for whatever help you can provide.  This is a
once-in-a-lifetime
> > kind of thing for me, and I'd really like to do it well.
> >
> > Pam Dotson
> > Everett, WA  USA
> >
>
>
> =====
> Rachel
>
> Tudor Bibliography
> http://website.lineone.net/~reholliday/Tudor/
>
> __________________________________________________
> Yahoo! Plus
> For a better Internet experience
> http://www.yahoo.co.uk/btoffer
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul  1 13:56:22 2003
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Status: RO

Bjarne,
What a luck lady to receive this outstanding beautiful dress!
It has been a pleasure to watch your progress start to finish. Many thanks for sharing. It is always a joy to hear what you are up too.
Happy Sewing
Ysandra
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Advice wanted for an England trip
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>
> While I love Elizabethan, and would love to see Sulgrave Manor, I just don't
> think it's going to happen, especially since I don't plan on renting a car
> (I'm terrified of the idea of driving on the left, my brain just doesn't
> make those kind of adjustments).

Pam,

I didn't have a car in England, but got to Sulgrave Manor for the
re-enactment and was so glad I did. I took the train
to the nearest large town, took a bus to Banbury (?) and it was a
10-minute taxi ride from there.  Not the cheapest trip, but cheaper--and
much less stress--than driving.  Me + Car + English highways=Much Badness.

It was Sooo worth it!  The people were amazing!  The manor was amazing!  I
learned so much about so many different 16th c. activities: Embroidery,
bookbinding, candlemaking, dyeing, etc--plus, I made some really good
contacts in the 16th c. costume research community over there.

If you can afford the train & bus fare, I definitely recommend going.

Drea

 >
> Thank you so much for telling me about it, even if I can't go!
>
> Pam Dotson
> Everett, WA  USA
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rachel" <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2003 1:10 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] Re: Advice wanted for an England trip
>
>
> > Hi Pam,
> >
> > Well there is lots you can do in August.  Musuem wise there is the
> Victoria and Albert Museum,
> > British Museum, Museum of London all in London as well as lots more
> smaller museums and the art
> > galleries as well.
> >
> > Hampton Court Palace is well worth a visit and fairly easy to get to on
> the train from London
> > (Waterloo Station every 30 mins to Hampton Court), Buckingham Palace
> should be open to the public
> > and it's worth going to see the Royal Collection which is a separate bit
> in a building on the same
> > site, they have an exhibition of sketches by da Vinci at the moment, may
> still be on in August but
> > you should be able to check over the internet.  Windsor Castle is another
> good place to visit.
> >
> > I don't know what period in history you are particularly interested in but
> if Elizabethan is up
> > your street you can come and pay my group a visit (The Tudor Group) as we
> will be doing our week
> > long inhabitation of a lower gentry house in August (see
> www.tudorgroup.co.uk) for more details.
> > It's outside London but not too difficult to get to if you hire a car.
> >
> > You should probably take the opportunity of touring round the country a
> bit as there are some real
> > treasures outside of London.
> >
> > Let me know if I can be any more help.
> >
> > Rachel
> >
> >
> > > From: "David" <someone@eskimo.com>
> > > Subject: [h-cost] Advice wanted for an England trip
> > > To: <HistoricKnit@yahoogroups.com>, <h-costume@indra.com>
> > > Message-ID: <01f501c31a36$c9ee4e20$5b0ebbd0@bently>
> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> > >
> > > Since I never thought I'd actually ever wind up going to England, I
> never
> > > paid too much attention to which museums and the like people said
> > > interesting pieces were in.  Now, as kind of a reward for getting
> through my
> > > lung cancer treatment, my parents are going to send me there, probably
> for
> > > most of August.  I'll most likely spend the bulk of my time in London,
> but
> > > can go anywhere I want, if there's something worth going there for.
> > >
> > > Overall, I'm an all-things-fiber addict, with a strong bias towards
> anything
> > > over a thousand years old, and an unexpected weakness for Edwardian
> gowns.
> > > I'm the sort who would happily spend several hours in front of the same
> > > case, trying to trace thread paths, and making notes (heaven help me!).
> So,
> > > where would you recommend I go, and what should I see?  And do you have
> any
> > > great advice as to where I should stay while I'm seeing it?
> > >
> > > Thank you for whatever help you can provide.  This is a
> once-in-a-lifetime
> > > kind of thing for me, and I'd really like to do it well.
> > >
> > > Pam Dotson
> > > Everett, WA  USA
> > >
> >
> >
> > =====
> > Rachel
> >
> > Tudor Bibliography
> > http://website.lineone.net/~reholliday/Tudor/
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Yahoo! Plus
> > For a better Internet experience
> > http://www.yahoo.co.uk/btoffer
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Dear list,

Sorry for that last posting, I meant to send it privately, but obviously
made a mistake!

Pam Dotson


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That's OK - I 'm going to London in September, so all these posts are
getting saved in my "London" folder!

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot
BRF FOF; Guilde of St. Lawrence

A room without books is like a body without a soul
---Cicero

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************

----- Original Message -----
From: "David" <someone@eskimo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 01, 2003 1:12 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Advice wanted for an England trip


> Dear list,
>
> Sorry for that last posting, I meant to send it privately, but obviously
> made a mistake!
>
> Pam Dotson
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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	Tue, 01 Jul 2003 12:51:49 PDT
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From: Quite Contrary <hanstar88@yahoo.com>
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Try this site:
http://www.ladymesmerism.net/medchildren/main.html

~Mary (back to lurking...)

> Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 22:55:06 +0100
> From: "Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk>
> Subject: [h-cost] Kid's in Elizabethan costume ?
> To: "LIST H costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <01fe01c33f52$4607f2a0$d1754ed5@pavilion>
> Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> Kid's in Elizabethan costume ?
> 
> Does anyone have any pics of kids in Elizabethan costume they can
> send me
> direct tonight please ?
> 
> I have had a request to show some at my daughter's school tomorrow,
> nothing
> like lots of notice !
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Mel
> 



=====
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Advice wanted for an England trip
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At 13:45 01/07/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>That's OK - I 'm going to London in September, so all these posts are
>getting saved in my "London" folder!

Go to the British Museum. There's a special exhibition until November 
called "1753." It's all about London in 1753 and by all accounts it is 
wonderful!


Lynne Connolly, GSOLFOT
Award winning Historical Romance
Author of the Richard and Rose books from 
<http://www.novelbooksinc.com/>Novelbooks Inc.
YORKSHIRE, DEVONSHIRE and now VENICE
VANESSA from <http://www.awe-struck.net/>Awe-Struck books, 4 stars from RT
http://www.geocities.com/lynne_connolly2001/  

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] (oops) Revolution in Fashion.
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>...the one that worked was the one you (Nicole) suggested.

Some of us still can't get there.  I know I found it once, but I was just 
checking it out so I could go back there.  Not I can't get there at all. 
Whazzup?


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
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Subject: Children image site, Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 2, Issue
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 --- Quite Contrary <hanstar88@yahoo.com> wrote: > Try this site:
> http://www.ladymesmerism.net/medchildren/main.html
> 
> ~Mary (back to lurking...)

Wow! Thank you Mary, I never came across this site, it is great!

Nicole

=====
Men Die. Cattle Die. Word-Fame Lives Forever.      ~ Old Norse Aphorism

Email: nicole@kipar.org
URL: http://www.kipar.org

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dawn Jacobson <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Finished the robe francaise
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At 03:44 PM 6/30/2003 +0200, you wrote:
>Finally i have finished the embroidered robe francaise with chenille
>embroidery.
>That is why i was so quiet lately, because i was buisy.
>I am very pleased with the result, it looks very like the drawing  i made in
>the first place.
>I have made 3 significant costumes in my life, Nicoles blue Baroque dress,
>my own embroidered suit, and now this fine dress.
>Boy am i glad i finally finished it!
>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/the_finished_dress.htm
>
>Bjarne

>Well that's certainly pretty! Congratulations on creating a lovely gown.

Now I've got to get my butt in gear and build a robe a la francaise for 
myself, but I'm sure it won't look quite as nice as yours does.

Dawn


Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are the costumes we wear every day. 
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depending on what periods you are interested in you should take a wander
over to west London and visit all the historic houses there. This was once
the area for the court to retreat in the country and there are many splendid
country houses over that way including Chiswick House, Hogarths house,
Boston Manor House, Syon Park, Ham House, Osterley & Marble Hill house, as
well as Kew Gardens most with Tudor Origins refurbished in the 18thc and all
with magnificent portraits furniture etc.
Also don't forget the Wallace Collection just behind Oxford Street largest
collection of Canaletto's, not to mention Bouchers etc

Dawn
listing all the places she misses now she's moved to Leeds where the Royal
Armouries is

Ages Of Elegance makers of Historical reproduction Clothing, Uniforms and
Bridalwear
 http://www.agesofelegance.co.uk 0113 277 6716
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <lotsofteapots@charter.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 01, 2003 7:45 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Advice wanted for an England trip


> That's OK - I 'm going to London in September, so all these posts are
> getting saved in my "London" folder!
>
> **********************
> Rebecca Schmitt
> aka Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot
> BRF FOF; Guilde of St. Lawrence
>
> A room without books is like a body without a soul
> ---Cicero
>
> lotsofteapots@charter.net
> **********************
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "David" <someone@eskimo.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 01, 2003 1:12 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Advice wanted for an England trip
>
>
> > Dear list,
> >
> > Sorry for that last posting, I meant to send it privately, but obviously
> > made a mistake!
> >
> > Pam Dotson
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
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> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul  2 08:33:42 2003
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From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
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Subject: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum - observations
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HI all!

I just had the great pleasure of having Deredere and her husband over for
the past week. We had tons of fun and thanks to her knowledge and my 150
meters of ponge, we will both soon have new chemises with blackwork :)))

Anyway, besides the hours we spent surfing, talking and looking at pictures,
we also spent an hour staring at the extant 16th and 17th costumes at the
Bayerisches Nationalmuseum here in Munich. We saw all sorts of details that
we hadn't noticed before and would affect how one would make a dress from
the late 16th century. Deredere is better at details than I am so when she
gets back home, I'm sure she'll make a report.

The highlight of our museum visits was the visit to the archives of the
Bayerisches Nationalmuseum. Since the curator of the Textil exhibit (for
which I arranged the sending of many catalogs) offered to take me there, I
took her up on the offer and we were able to go yesterday. We saw close-up
several of the pieces that had been on exhibit as well as some early Tudor
shows (similar to the ones we see Henry VIII see - I still can't see how
they kept those things on!) and a very long pointed delicate patten.

The coolest thing though was getting to see the corset worn by Pfaltzgrfin
Dorothea Sabine von Neuberg who died in 1598 (one place to see this is at
http://costume.dm.net/corsets/history.html. Birgit held it up so we could
see all sides and inside as well. I was surprised how little fabric was used
(Birgit said one layer of linen and one layer of silk but I think it was 2
layers of linen as described in Janet Arnold (page 47 and 112-113 Patterns
of Fashion 1560-1620) and correspondingly on the web page I mention above.
Nevertheless it was very thin (even taking age and deterioration into
account). The lady who wore it (died at age 22) was very tiny compared to
most of us and I doubt had much to form. At this point Deredere and I had an
epiphany of sorts. We noticed that the front (and the back) of the corset
was quite high. It would have hit Dorothea right at the point where the
bulge of the breastbone starts (I have no clue what the correct anatomical
designations are so bear with). About 2-2.5 inches (5-6 cm) below the hole
in your neck where you collar bones and your neck tendons meet the
breastbone. If you draw a line from this point over to you arms you come to
the bottom point of the ball of you big arm bone. The back is similary high,
therefore the straps are quite short.

When we got home and the shock had worn off a bit, Deredere started looking
at her wedding dress pictures and realized that her dress has a noticeable
flaw when compared to this corset. Her corset is too low. I would also have
to say that she probably wears way too low on the hips as well. She is
always complaining that it hurts her hip after a while. This is my
conclusion after seeing Dorothea's corset and dress. The corset (and bodice)
hit no lower than the top of the  natural waist if not right at where the
ribs end. (This also fits in with whatever thread that was mentioning women
resting their elbows or arms or whatever on their dresses supported by
farthingales). Since the bodice is high-necked, I can't make any statement
as to whether this corset would also be used for low-necked bodices - a
though we came up with.

After this we surfed around quite a bit looking at Tudor and Elizabethian
and other 16th century dresses (English, Spanish, French) portraits and
noticed how high the fronts of the neck cutouts (as well as how far down the
shoulders usually sit). In the majority of these portraits (the major
exceptions being Italian), the bodices hit at the point on the chest I
described above. We then looked at many examples of Tudor and Elizabethian
and other 16th century dresses (English, Spanish, French) that have been
made by people from all over the world and our conclusion is that about 95%
of these costumes have the same flaw(s) Deredere's costume has. Everyone's
corset (and bodice) sits probably - at least- 2 inches two low (at least)
and also sits too low on the hips as well. The only portraits we saw had
-no- little breast bubbles at the top. If the corset is high enough there
can't be any. After I realized this I realized why so many of the wonderful
costumes I had seen still bothered me the tiniest little bit... This is of
course no comfort to those of us who are well endowed but are still trying
to get that flat look - that I haven't yet figured out without at least some
sort of shelf. Oh- a new thought - many of the portraits (but not all) have
the woman sitting - maybe that makes a difference....

Cass  :)


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum - observations
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Dear Cassandra.
How wonderfull it is, when 2 Costume Freaks ( like all of us) meets, and
starts some brainstorming!
Thanks a lot for sharing that valuable usefull informations to all the rest
of us!
I am so jaloux, it seems that you had such a wonderfull time!

Bjarne


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul  2 09:48:04 2003
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum - observations
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Wow, lucky!  I can't wait till I have a chance to see the real thing (tm)
as well.  Congrats!  There's nothing like seeing the original.

I noticed the same thing a while back about recreation Tudor costumes--on
the whole, the necklines are too low. I wonder how this came about.
Perhaps it's been influenced by the "wench effect" in the past. One of the
things I liked about the movie Lady Jane was that all of the gowns had
necklines at the appropriate height...and they all looked right.

Drea

On Wed, 2 Jul 2003, Cassandra Greer wrote:

> HI all!
>
> I just had the great pleasure of having Deredere and her husband over for
> the past week. We had tons of fun and thanks to her knowledge and my 150
> meters of ponge, we will both soon have new chemises with blackwork :)))
>
> Anyway, besides the hours we spent surfing, talking and looking at pictures,
> we also spent an hour staring at the extant 16th and 17th costumes at the
> Bayerisches Nationalmuseum here in Munich. We saw all sorts of details that
> we hadn't noticed before and would affect how one would make a dress from
> the late 16th century. Deredere is better at details than I am so when she
> gets back home, I'm sure she'll make a report.
>
> The highlight of our museum visits was the visit to the archives of the
> Bayerisches Nationalmuseum. Since the curator of the Textil exhibit (for
> which I arranged the sending of many catalogs) offered to take me there, I
> took her up on the offer and we were able to go yesterday. We saw close-up
> several of the pieces that had been on exhibit as well as some early Tudor
> shows (similar to the ones we see Henry VIII see - I still can't see how
> they kept those things on!) and a very long pointed delicate patten.
>
> The coolest thing though was getting to see the corset worn by Pfaltzgrfin
> Dorothea Sabine von Neuberg who died in 1598 (one place to see this is at
> http://costume.dm.net/corsets/history.html. Birgit held it up so we could
> see all sides and inside as well. I was surprised how little fabric was used
> (Birgit said one layer of linen and one layer of silk but I think it was 2
> layers of linen as described in Janet Arnold (page 47 and 112-113 Patterns
> of Fashion 1560-1620) and correspondingly on the web page I mention above.
> Nevertheless it was very thin (even taking age and deterioration into
> account). The lady who wore it (died at age 22) was very tiny compared to
> most of us and I doubt had much to form. At this point Deredere and I had an
> epiphany of sorts. We noticed that the front (and the back) of the corset
> was quite high. It would have hit Dorothea right at the point where the
> bulge of the breastbone starts (I have no clue what the correct anatomical
> designations are so bear with). About 2-2.5 inches (5-6 cm) below the hole
> in your neck where you collar bones and your neck tendons meet the
> breastbone. If you draw a line from this point over to you arms you come to
> the bottom point of the ball of you big arm bone. The back is similary high,
> therefore the straps are quite short.
>
> When we got home and the shock had worn off a bit, Deredere started looking
> at her wedding dress pictures and realized that her dress has a noticeable
> flaw when compared to this corset. Her corset is too low. I would also have
> to say that she probably wears way too low on the hips as well. She is
> always complaining that it hurts her hip after a while. This is my
> conclusion after seeing Dorothea's corset and dress. The corset (and bodice)
> hit no lower than the top of the  natural waist if not right at where the
> ribs end. (This also fits in with whatever thread that was mentioning women
> resting their elbows or arms or whatever on their dresses supported by
> farthingales). Since the bodice is high-necked, I can't make any statement
> as to whether this corset would also be used for low-necked bodices - a
> though we came up with.
>
> After this we surfed around quite a bit looking at Tudor and Elizabethian
> and other 16th century dresses (English, Spanish, French) portraits and
> noticed how high the fronts of the neck cutouts (as well as how far down the
> shoulders usually sit). In the majority of these portraits (the major
> exceptions being Italian), the bodices hit at the point on the chest I
> described above. We then looked at many examples of Tudor and Elizabethian
> and other 16th century dresses (English, Spanish, French) that have been
> made by people from all over the world and our conclusion is that about 95%
> of these costumes have the same flaw(s) Deredere's costume has. Everyone's
> corset (and bodice) sits probably - at least- 2 inches two low (at least)
> and also sits too low on the hips as well. The only portraits we saw had
> -no- little breast bubbles at the top. If the corset is high enough there
> can't be any. After I realized this I realized why so many of the wonderful
> costumes I had seen still bothered me the tiniest little bit... This is of
> course no comfort to those of us who are well endowed but are still trying
> to get that flat look - that I haven't yet figured out without at least some
> sort of shelf. Oh- a new thought - many of the portraits (but not all) have
> the woman sitting - maybe that makes a difference....
>
> Cass  :)
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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Date: Wed, 02 Jul 2003 15:51:35 +0200
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum - observations
From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Well, Bjarne, I do recall inviting you down to stay with us so you could go
to the musuem too  - the invitation still stands ;)))

Cass :)

> Dear Cassandra.
> How wonderfull it is, when 2 Costume Freaks ( like all of us) meets, and
> starts some brainstorming!
> Thanks a lot for sharing that valuable usefull informations to all the rest
> of us!
> I am so jaloux, it seems that you had such a wonderfull time!
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum - observations
From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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> Wow, lucky!  I can't wait till I have a chance to see the real thing (tm)
> as well.  Congrats!  There's nothing like seeing the original.
Indeed! ehem I had actually forgotten this corset was at this museum. We
didn't ask to see it, she just brought it out (ergo the shock :)))

Another thing I noticed which backs up our hypothesis is that in the Janet
Arnold exhibit, the display for the Eleanor de Toledo dress (which was never
finished) shows that the front of this 'low-necked' dress hits where I
described on the chest. Deredere found an online image of this but I don't
know exactly where it is now. She can find faster than me so I'll let her
:))) 

> 
> I noticed the same thing a while back about recreation Tudor costumes--on
> the whole, the necklines are too low. I wonder how this came about.
> Perhaps it's been influenced by the "wench effect" in the past.
Maybe that and the fact that in the 17th century (and the Italians anyway)
they did start going lower till you have those really nice breast bubbles in
the 18th century ;)

>One of the
> things I liked about the movie Lady Jane was that all of the gowns had
> necklines at the appropriate height...and they all looked right.
I do have that movie but I lent it out some time ago and haven't managed to
get it it back - but I do recall that the fronts were high too.

Cass :)


> 
> Drea
> 
> On Wed, 2 Jul 2003, Cassandra Greer wrote:
> 
>> HI all!
>> 
>> I just had the great pleasure of having Deredere and her husband over for
>> the past week. We had tons of fun and thanks to her knowledge and my 150
>> meters of ponge, we will both soon have new chemises with blackwork :)))
>> 
>> Anyway, besides the hours we spent surfing, talking and looking at pictures,
>> we also spent an hour staring at the extant 16th and 17th costumes at the
>> Bayerisches Nationalmuseum here in Munich. We saw all sorts of details that
>> we hadn't noticed before and would affect how one would make a dress from
>> the late 16th century. Deredere is better at details than I am so when she
>> gets back home, I'm sure she'll make a report.
>> 
>> The highlight of our museum visits was the visit to the archives of the
>> Bayerisches Nationalmuseum. Since the curator of the Textil exhibit (for
>> which I arranged the sending of many catalogs) offered to take me there, I
>> took her up on the offer and we were able to go yesterday. We saw close-up
>> several of the pieces that had been on exhibit as well as some early Tudor
>> shows (similar to the ones we see Henry VIII see - I still can't see how
>> they kept those things on!) and a very long pointed delicate patten.
>> 
>> The coolest thing though was getting to see the corset worn by Pfaltzgrfin
>> Dorothea Sabine von Neuberg who died in 1598 (one place to see this is at
>> http://costume.dm.net/corsets/history.html. Birgit held it up so we could
>> see all sides and inside as well. I was surprised how little fabric was used
>> (Birgit said one layer of linen and one layer of silk but I think it was 2
>> layers of linen as described in Janet Arnold (page 47 and 112-113 Patterns
>> of Fashion 1560-1620) and correspondingly on the web page I mention above.
>> Nevertheless it was very thin (even taking age and deterioration into
>> account). The lady who wore it (died at age 22) was very tiny compared to
>> most of us and I doubt had much to form. At this point Deredere and I had an
>> epiphany of sorts. We noticed that the front (and the back) of the corset
>> was quite high. It would have hit Dorothea right at the point where the
>> bulge of the breastbone starts (I have no clue what the correct anatomical
>> designations are so bear with). About 2-2.5 inches (5-6 cm) below the hole
>> in your neck where you collar bones and your neck tendons meet the
>> breastbone. If you draw a line from this point over to you arms you come to
>> the bottom point of the ball of you big arm bone. The back is similary high,
>> therefore the straps are quite short.
>> 
>> When we got home and the shock had worn off a bit, Deredere started looking
>> at her wedding dress pictures and realized that her dress has a noticeable
>> flaw when compared to this corset. Her corset is too low. I would also have
>> to say that she probably wears way too low on the hips as well. She is
>> always complaining that it hurts her hip after a while. This is my
>> conclusion after seeing Dorothea's corset and dress. The corset (and bodice)
>> hit no lower than the top of the  natural waist if not right at where the
>> ribs end. (This also fits in with whatever thread that was mentioning women
>> resting their elbows or arms or whatever on their dresses supported by
>> farthingales). Since the bodice is high-necked, I can't make any statement
>> as to whether this corset would also be used for low-necked bodices - a
>> though we came up with.
>> 
>> After this we surfed around quite a bit looking at Tudor and Elizabethian
>> and other 16th century dresses (English, Spanish, French) portraits and
>> noticed how high the fronts of the neck cutouts (as well as how far down the
>> shoulders usually sit). In the majority of these portraits (the major
>> exceptions being Italian), the bodices hit at the point on the chest I
>> described above. We then looked at many examples of Tudor and Elizabethian
>> and other 16th century dresses (English, Spanish, French) that have been
>> made by people from all over the world and our conclusion is that about 95%
>> of these costumes have the same flaw(s) Deredere's costume has. Everyone's
>> corset (and bodice) sits probably - at least- 2 inches two low (at least)
>> and also sits too low on the hips as well. The only portraits we saw had
>> -no- little breast bubbles at the top. If the corset is high enough there
>> can't be any. After I realized this I realized why so many of the wonderful
>> costumes I had seen still bothered me the tiniest little bit... This is of
>> course no comfort to those of us who are well endowed but are still trying
>> to get that flat look - that I haven't yet figured out without at least some
>> sort of shelf. Oh- a new thought - many of the portraits (but not all) have
>> the woman sitting - maybe that makes a difference....
>> 
>> Cass  :)
>> 
>> 
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> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum - observations
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> Being a large-busted woman, when I wear 16th c. and my bust is
> flattened up, I basically get a shelf effect.  My question to you is,
> then, should the corset and bodice go straight up past this shelf
> point (basically leaving empty space behind the corset/bodice once
> it's higher than the bust point)?

I'd say absolutely not. Look at Lady Guildford:

http://www.abcgallery.com/H/holbein/holbein21.html

While the neckline is not so low that her nipples are going to pop 
out, neither is it so high that it doesn't at all times touch her 
skin. You can also see that she actually has some cleavage showing as 
a little line up between the chains of her necklace where it descend 
into her bodice. 

You can also see this on Holbein's wife: 
http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/html/h/holbein/hans_y/1531/2family.html

But what is different about her cleavage and Lady Guildford's is that 
they are not pushed *up* (as we so often see in modern ladies who are 
trying to "go Tudor") but just controlled. And if you have a less 
endowed lady, you would see that it just looked like a higher 
neckline. (Too many of the modern gals want to show off their chests 
rather than have an accurate outfit. That's fine with me, as long as 
they know it isn't actually what would have been worn in the period.)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum - observations
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From: Sarah <sarah@elizabethanlady.com>
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I had an "ah-ha" moment on this a few months ago.  I was attempting to 
make a supportive kirtle for a late 15th century/early Tudor gown and 
ran into the "shelf affect" which caused it to appear that my neckline 
was too low and my breasts too high:

http://www.elizabethanlady.com/images/1480s/kirtlecomparison.gif

The picture on the left is the "before" shot and the one on the right 
is the "after" shot.  It honestly took a man to point out to me what I 
was doing wrong, and had been doing "wrong" for years (thanks Ben, if 
you're on the list!).

What it amounted to was that I was hoisting my breasts upward in my 
kirtle (and with my corsets) which gave the shelf look at top.  What 
Ben suggested trying was *flattening* my bosom rather than hauling up.  
I guess a better way to describe it would be let the fabric compress my 
breasts without pulling them up so that they give me the TOAP look.  In 
the second photo I've done just this and guess what?  The neckline 
falls correctly and doesn't look too low!  I still have a noticeable 
bit of cleavage at top, but that's the nature of the beasties.  ;)

Also, I should add that compressing the bosom is a lot less comfortable 
than hosting.  It's a more restrictive feeling and even somewhat 
painful and takes some getting used to.

Here's a mid-16th century bodice I'm working on that has the same 
principles: http://www.elizabethanlady.com/images/frenchdress/side02.JPG
http://www.elizabethanlady.com/images/frenchdress/front02.JPG

Sarah

On Wednesday, July 2, 2003, at 08:18  AM, Kendra Van Cleave wrote:

> Wow, this is really interesting!
>
> I found the Janet Arnold exhibit pics:
> http://www.kipar.demon.co.uk/arnold.html
>
> Looks like the toile (two bottom pictures) is what you're talking 
> about --
> the neckline would definitely come up past the bust point.
>
> There's a picture of the Pfaltzgrfin corset at:
> http://costume.dm.net/corsets/images/pfaltzcors.gif
>
> Being a large-busted woman, when I wear 16th c. and my bust is 
> flattened up,
> I basically get a shelf effect.  My question to you is, then, should 
> the
> corset and bodice go straight up past this shelf point (basically 
> leaving
> empty space behind the corset/bodice once it's higher than the bust 
> point)?
>
> I do think I noticed something similar in the "Lady Jane" moving 
> costumes,
> and I remember wondering why the bodices were all so ill-fitted!
>
> - Kendra
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum - observations
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Status: RO

Cassandra--thanks so much for the detailed report!  That was fascinating.

Cassandra Greer wrote:

> We noticed that the front (and the back) of the corset
> was quite high. It would have hit Dorothea right at the point where the
> bulge of the breastbone starts (I have no clue what the correct anatomical
> designations are so bear with). About 2-2.5 inches (5-6 cm) below the hole
> in your neck where you collar bones and your neck tendons meet the
> breastbone.

I agree that many people's re-created bodices are too low (and I 
completely agree with Drea about the "wench effect"), but I would like 
to point out that even in the 16th century there was quite a bit of 
variation.  Here are several images of women with the center of their 
neckline perhaps 4 or 5 inches below the base of their neck.  This is 
just a small random sampling across Tudor and Elizabethan:

 From Web Gallery of Art (http://gallery.euroweb.hu)
drawing of the family of Sir Thomas More
http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/h/holbein/hans_y/2drawing/1530/11family.jpg

Both Lady Mary Guildford (speaking of breast bubbles...) and the Lady 
with Squirrel on this page
http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/h/holbein/hans_y/1528/index.html

 From Tudor and Elizabethan Portraits (http://www.tudor-portraits.com)
Elizabeth's phoenix portrait
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth_13.jpg

Ann Cresacre
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Anne%20Cresacre.jpg

Holbein's Unknown Lady (front and back views, and hint of breast 
bubbles)  http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Unknown%20Lady%20A.jpg

another unknown lady
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Unknown%20Lady%20G.jpg

Happy Surfing,
Melanie Schuessler
http://www.faucet.net/costume

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Subject: [h-cost] Elizabethan cap questions
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Status: RO

I have a couple of somewhat strange questions.

1.   I am looking for extant examples of of what I've seen referred to as a 
"Holbein" cap, or any other working and middle class hearwear from the late 
1500s.

2.  Anyone know how far back the use of the Monmouth Cap goes?

Marc

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From: kat@grendal.rain.com
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 2003 08:10:24 -0700
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum - observations
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>  Everyone's corset (and bodice) sits
> probably - at least- 2 inches two low (at least) and also sits too low
> on the hips as well. The only portraits we saw had -no- little breast
> bubbles at the top. If the corset is high enough there can't be any.

As to the height of the corset, I think that it may vary depending on 
whether it is meant to go under a high necked gown (which would help 
smooth the front of the gown) or a low necked gown.

In the Tudor gowns, the corset would show above the chemise if it 
were as high as you say this one was. Perhaps it is because of the 
lack of anatomical language, but on me that part of the breastbone 
which protrudes is above the level of the muscle points. And the 
Henry VIII period bodices definitely use that level as the top of 
their dresses. (The muscle point is that place where the muscles of 
the chest, specifically the pectoralis major, attach to the upper arm 
bone.) On me, if you drew a curve between the two muscle points 
(slightly arched upward in the center as in the H8 Tudor portraits) 
it would still be about 2" below the protrusion in my breastbone 
(which is only an inch below the neck notch at the top of my 
breastbone.) So it seems to me that a low necked gown would require a 
lower top on the corset. But I usually put it so that it is about 1", 
sometimes more, above the top of the brown part of the nipples (aka 
the areolar edge). Many people tend to put it so that the areolar 
edge is nearly showing. One slight movement and out they'd pop. (Not 
a pretty sight!)

As to the lower edge of the corset, I have noticed that people try 
too hard to have that as low as possible. When I was taught corsetry, 
I was told that with the corset on, if you bend to the side as much 
as possible, it should not dig into the hip or the waist. It should 
not be sitting on the hipline at all. That would put the bottom of 
the corset at the lower edge of the ribcage and perhaps only a slight 
bit below, as you describe. Tudor corsets were not meant to constrict 
the waist, but to shape the bodice. (Unlike later corsets.) The tiny 
waists were an illusion made by the dip in the front of the 
bodice/corset. (Note: this isn't to say that some women didn't have 
tiny waists. They did, as in the case of Dorothea, who probably was a 
rather sickly woman from what I've been able to gather about her 
life.)

Besides, the corsets which are cut too low on the sides cut into the 
hips and push up into the armpits. (Which is what always drove me 
crazy about the one on Helene Bonham Carter in Lady Jane. That thing 
did *not* fit her and it really showed whenever she slumped, which 
she did a lot.)

I do believe that you are correct that many people doing Tudor era 
corsets are heavily influenced by the "needs" of later corsets to do 
things like constrict the waist and push the breasts into a more 
"wench" like position.


> After I realized this I realized why so many of the wonderful costumes
> I had seen still bothered me the tiniest little bit... This is of
> course no comfort to those of us who are well endowed but are still
> trying to get that flat look - that I haven't yet figured out without
> at least some sort of shelf. Oh- a new thought - many of the portraits
> (but not all) have the woman sitting - maybe that makes a
> difference....

I don't think that sitting would help. In fact, sitting tends to push 
things up more than if you are standing erect. 

I do think that being well endowed makes the fit of the corset 
different than on someone without much bustline at all. I've noticed 
that on the women I've made corsets for who are less well endowed, I 
can easily put the corset much higher than on those who are C+ or 
larger. (And since I went from a A cup to a DD cup, it has certainly 
changed where I can put the top of my corset.) 

And it's not like they didn't have large women. Look at Lady Dacre, 
who was just plain big, and Lady Guildford, who has enough bustline 
to actually show cleavage. (She's one of the few I've seen who do.)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum - observations
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Wow, this is really interesting!

I found the Janet Arnold exhibit pics:
http://www.kipar.demon.co.uk/arnold.html

Looks like the toile (two bottom pictures) is what you're talking about --
the neckline would definitely come up past the bust point.

There's a picture of the Pfaltzgrfin corset at:
http://costume.dm.net/corsets/images/pfaltzcors.gif

Being a large-busted woman, when I wear 16th c. and my bust is flattened up,
I basically get a shelf effect.  My question to you is, then, should the
corset and bodice go straight up past this shelf point (basically leaving
empty space behind the corset/bodice once it's higher than the bust point)?

I do think I noticed something similar in the "Lady Jane" moving costumes,
and I remember wondering why the bodices were all so ill-fitted!

- Kendra

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Elizabethan cap questions
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"Marc Carlson" <marccarlson20@hotmail.com> wrote:

>I have a couple of somewhat strange questions.
>
>1.   I am looking for extant examples of of what I've seen referred to as a 
>"Holbein" cap, or any other working and middle class hearwear from the late 
>1500s.
>
>2.  Anyone know how far back the use of the Monmouth Cap goes?

do you mean the long stocking cap?  Monmouth was a mecca for cappers long before that stocking cap, you may be interested in 
http://www.isca-morrismen.com/monmouth.htm
which has several early extant pieces.
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Elizabethan cap questions
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This will be an interesting topic Marc, I am looking forward to what
others have to say about it.  I think they will wonder a little about
more specifics.  It is a little confusing; Elizabethan from the 1500's?
I am assuming women's headdress?  Do you mean only English?  

Does a burger's income still mean middle class to you?  The reason I ask
is the BBC version of Henry the VIII did a pretty cool job of recreating
the dress and headdress for Jane Seymour from Holbein's (or is it Durer?
Someone will correct me if I have it mixed up) "Burger's Wife"  I have
captured images from the DVD and would be willing to send them to you if
you are interested.  Can you describe what the "Holbein Cap" means?  I
have lots of picture images of the bund caps and also some extant rolls
that go underneath them.

Sg

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Marc Carlson
Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 2003 9:05 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Elizabethan cap questions

I have a couple of somewhat strange questions.

1.   I am looking for extant examples of of what I've seen referred to
as a 
"Holbein" cap, or any other working and middle class hearwear from the
late 
1500s.

2.  Anyone know how far back the use of the Monmouth Cap goes?

Marc

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From: "Marc Carlson" <marccarlson20@hotmail.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Elizabethan cap questions
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>From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
>This will be an interesting topic Marc, I am looking forward to what
>others have to say about it.  I think they will wonder a little about
>more specifics.  It is a little confusing; Elizabethan from the 1500's?
>I am assuming women's headdress?  Do you mean only English?

No, you're right, I should be more specific with my terminology on this.  
The cap I'm thinking of is generally a man's cap, although I certainly don't 
want to limit the discussion on that basis.  Apparently it is also sometimes 
called a "flat cap" and is generally shown as being made from three circles 
of fabric, the bottom two with large concentric inner circles cut out.

You can find a picture of a knitted version at 
http://www.qualitycaps.247e.info/pages/main/caps1.htm

>Does a burger's income still mean middle class to you?...

Absolutely.

Marc

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Subject: [h-cost] Yay!
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I just found out that I get to write the entries on fashion during World War
I and World War II for the upcoming _Encyclopedia of the Home Front_!

Yay!

- Kendra

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Marc Carlson wrote:
> I have a couple of somewhat strange questions.
> 
> 1.   I am looking for extant examples of of what I've seen referred to 
> as a "Holbein" cap, or any other working and middle class hearwear from 
> the late 1500s.

Are you specifically looking for English examples?

I'm not sure what a "Holbein" cap is, but there are some extant hats and 
caps in Textiler Hausrat by Jutta Zander-Seidel.  They may all be too 
early for your purposes, but perhaps the styles didn't change as much in 
the lower classes as in the upper.

I don't know what class it comes from, but on page 222 there's a picture 
of a knitted flat cap with a narrow brim labelled "Strickbarett.  Wolle, 
15./16. Jahrhundert" and also a fancier one below with fur? feathers? 
around it labelled "Barett des Christoph Kress von Kressenstein.  Um 
1530."  There are a couple of earlier ones on page 130--another flat cap 
and one with earflaps, both knitted wool, but both "um 1500."  There's 
also a high-crowned hat covered with fabric pleated into the hatband and 
a narrow brim labelled "Mannerhut.  Um 1580" but again I don't know what 
class person wore it.

Cheers,
Melanie Schuessler
http://www.faucet.net/costume

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Yeah, what the subject line says

http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/lowclass.html

-Sarra Wryght
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] date for mid-16th-century portrait?
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According to Jane AShelford's "Visual History of Costume- The Sixteenth
Century" that portrait is of Mary I, and was painted by Hans Eworth
between 1550-5. 

Hope that helps!

Karen

On Tue, 01 Jul 2003 10:16:38 -0500 Melanie Schuessler
<melanie@faucet.net> writes:
> Greetings to all
> 
> Can anyone give me a date for this portrait?
> 
> http://infotrope.net/sca/textiles/costume/pemberton/blackmary.jpg
> 
> Thanks,
> Melanie Schuessler
> http://www.faucet.net/costume
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> 
> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum - observations
From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
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Hmm let's see if I can get one big reply to all the replies so far :)))
 
Kat's reply:
> As to the height of the corset, I think that it may vary depending on
> whether it is meant to go under a high necked gown (which would help
> smooth the front of the gown) or a low necked gown.
I think this definitely a possibility though we saw many low-necked gowns
under which this type of corset would  work nicely (most of them I think)

> In the Tudor gowns, the corset would show above the chemise if it
> were as high as you say this one was.
Why would it do that if the chemise was tucked in properly?

>Perhaps it is because of the
> lack of anatomical language, but on me that part of the breastbone
> which protrudes is above the level of the muscle points.
>And the 
> Henry VIII period bodices definitely use that level as the top of
> their dresses. (The muscle point is that place where the muscles of
> the chest, specifically the pectoralis major, attach to the upper arm
> bone.) On me, if you drew a curve between the two muscle points
> (slightly arched upward in the center as in the H8 Tudor portraits)
> it would still be about 2" below the protrusion in my breastbone
> (which is only an inch below the neck notch at the top of my
> breastbone.) 
I think we are talking about the same thing - but my vocab sucks here.

>So it seems to me that a low necked gown would require a
> lower top on the corset. But I usually put it so that it is about 1",
> sometimes more, above the top of the brown part of the nipples (aka
> the areolar edge). Many people tend to put it so that the areolar
> edge is nearly showing. One slight movement and out they'd pop. (Not
> a pretty sight!)
Gee, your set point on me would have a large amount of cleavage showing (due
to my ehem no longer young and definitely ample. But mine is higher and when
I am squished properly sits (at the top) almost at the right point with only
a minimal shelf.
 
> As to the lower edge of the corset, I have noticed that people try
> too hard to have that as low as possible. When I was taught corsetry,
> I was told that with the corset on, if you bend to the side as much
> as possible, it should not dig into the hip or the waist. It should
> not be sitting on the hipline at all. That would put the bottom of
> the corset at the lower edge of the ribcage and perhaps only a slight
> bit below, as you describe.
This is exactly what most people don't do (unfortunately!) I know know mine
sits to low though thank goodness it never caused me problems and if I can
modify it a bit maybe I can get it higher too.

>Tudor corsets were not meant to constrict
> the waist, but to shape the bodice. (Unlike later corsets.) The tiny
> waists were an illusion made by the dip in the front of the
> bodice/corset. (Note: this isn't to say that some women didn't have
> tiny waists. They did, as in the case of Dorothea, who probably was a
> rather sickly woman from what I've been able to gather about her
> life.)
When I say she was tiny - I meant all of her. I didn't find from looking at
the dress or corset that her waist had been constricted really - as a matter
of fact I think that the corset and bodice didn't get past the top part of
her natural waistline.

> Besides, the corsets which are cut too low on the sides cut into the
> hips and push up into the armpits. (Which is what always drove me
> crazy about the one on Helene Bonham Carter in Lady Jane. That thing
> did *not* fit her and it really showed whenever she slumped, which
> she did a lot.)
I do remember her slouching a lot - I wonder how much real women slouched ;)
or whether everyone (who wore these things) was so trained that they sloped
their shoulders back like they were supposed to :))) or whether it was just
the actress letting her unperiod bad posture show through.

> I do believe that you are correct that many people doing Tudor era
> corsets are heavily influenced by the "needs" of later corsets to do
> things like constrict the waist and push the breasts into a more
> "wench" like position.
> 
> I don't think that sitting would help. In fact, sitting tends to push
> things up more than if you are standing erect.
I was thinking that it would maybe make the corset and therefore the bodice
sit as I described...
 
> And it's not like they didn't have large women. Look at Lady Dacre,
> who was just plain big, and Lady Guildford, who has enough bustline
> to actually show cleavage. (She's one of the few I've seen who do.)
Yes I see - from all the links that have come in so far

Thanks Kendra for these links
>I found the Janet Arnold exhibit pics:
> http://www.kipar.demon.co.uk/arnold.html
> 
> Looks like the toile (two bottom pictures) is what you're talking about --
> the neckline would definitely come up past the bust point.
> 
> There's a picture of the Pfaltzgrfin corset at:
> http://costume.dm.net/corsets/images/pfaltzcors.gif

This picture seems to me like the bodice is sitting to low on the mannequin
- at least according to what I think now:
http://www.kipar.demon.co.uk/arnold/arnold05.jpg

> I had an "ah-ha" moment on this a few months ago.  I was attempting to
> make a supportive kirtle for a late 15th century/early Tudor gown and
> ran into the "shelf affect" which caused it to appear that my neckline
> was too low and my breasts too high:
> 
> http://www.elizabethanlady.com/images/1480s/kirtlecomparison.gif
> 
> The picture on the left is the "before" shot and the one on the right
> is the "after" shot.  It honestly took a man to point out to me what I
> was doing wrong, and had been doing "wrong" for years (thanks Ben, if
> you're on the list!).
> 
> What it amounted to was that I was hoisting my breasts upward in my
> kirtle (and with my corsets) which gave the shelf look at top.  What
> Ben suggested trying was *flattening* my bosom rather than hauling up.
> I guess a better way to describe it would be let the fabric compress my
> breasts without pulling them up so that they give me the TOAP look.  In
> the second photo I've done just this and guess what?  The neckline
> falls correctly and doesn't look too low!  I still have a noticeable
> bit of cleavage at top, but that's the nature of the beasties.  ;)
> 
> Also, I should add that compressing the bosom is a lot less comfortable
> than hosting.  It's a more restrictive feeling and even somewhat
> painful and takes some getting used to.
I totally agree that smushing is less comfortable but I think this is
because we are used to the 'lift and separate' tradition of these so many
years. As for my corset, I think it is still salvageable if I can make the
areas for arms larger and lower but otherwise when I wore it I did the smush
thing because otherwise I think I would overflow. As it is with the smushing
I still have a small but noticeable shelf and a cavity large enough to hide
the crown jewels or at least the contents of the Schatzkammer at the
Residenz in Munich (which we saw last Sunday - yummy!)

Thanks Melanie for pointing these out:
> 
> I agree that many people's re-created bodices are too low (and I
> completely agree with Drea about the "wench effect"), but I would like
> to point out that even in the 16th century there was quite a bit of
> variation.  Here are several images of women with the center of their
> neckline perhaps 4 or 5 inches below the base of their neck.  This is
> just a small random sampling across Tudor and Elizabethan:
> 
> From Web Gallery of Art (http://gallery.euroweb.hu)
> drawing of the family of Sir Thomas More
> http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/h/holbein/hans_y/2drawing/1530/11family.jpg
Lady 1 (from the left) I find her neckline a bit low.
Lady 2 is highnecked
Lady 3 I think follows the hypothesis but from the side looks lower than it
would from the front.
Lady 4 I found a bit low
Lady 5 I think if she were not so well endowed the top of the bodice would
hit in the hypothesized area
Lady 6 I find pretty much on the mark even though endowed though I think she
is bending over slightly, which may have pushed the corset/bodice up a bit.

> Both Lady Mary Guildford (speaking of breast bubbles...) and the Lady
> with Squirrel on this page
> http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/h/holbein/hans_y/1528/index.html
Yes indeed.. ;)

> From Tudor and Elizabethan Portraits (http://www.tudor-portraits.com)
> Elizabeth's phoenix portrait
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth_13.jpg
I think Elizabeth may have had an ample amount up there ;) or it is just the
artist

> Ann Cresacre
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Anne%20Cresacre.jpg
If find that this fits our description. It think if we could view it from
the front it wouldn't seem as low.

> Holbein's Unknown Lady (front and back views, and hint of breast
> bubbles)  http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Unknown%20Lady%20A.jpg
Yes cleavage...
> 
> another unknown lady
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Unknown%20Lady%20G.jpg
I think this lady is quite endowed but without the 'bubble' marks, she looks
a bit disformed (gee her waist seems really too narrow). But in the end if
her breasts weren't so big I think her bodice would sit more as
hypothesized.

Variation is definitely to be expected - that is just how clothes and people
are. However I think that the phenomenon we observed was the general desired
effect and perhaps those pictures that show something different (lower
neckline, etc) are due to larger breasts and maybe the artist. From the
pictures I've seen so far, I spot a neckline that seems too low to me by
looking where the corner (right or left) of the neckline sits. If it seems
lower than the spot where the arm connects to the side than it is too low
for what I -feel- was the desired effect from Tudor times to the beginning
of the 17th century in Europe (not counting Italy and only the nobility).

I also think (after thinking about it haha) that the curve of the top of the
bodice we see so often (on the flat-chested examples) is at least partly an
optical illusion resulting from the curvature of the chest and the habit of
sloping the shoulders down and back which would tilt the rib cage forward
and up, as well as bringing the hips forward and arching the small of the
back (this being eccentuated by the curve of the back of the dress -
bumrolled, padded or whatever.)....
'
Which reminds me, Birgit said Dorothea's dress had a bum roll. Now I don't
know if this was really a detachable roll or was padding (attached to the
dress). Does it say anthing about this in Janet Arnold's book? (I have
ordered them but they aren't here yet).

Cass :)


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seamstrix@juno.com wrote:
> According to Jane AShelford's "Visual History of Costume- The Sixteenth
> Century" that portrait is of Mary I, and was painted by Hans Eworth
> between 1550-5. 
> 
> Hope that helps!

Thanks, Karen.  I found that soon after I sent the query in, but I was 
hoping someone had a single year.  Oh well.

Melanie Schuessler
http://www.faucet.net/costume

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Marc Carlson wrote:

> You can find a picture of a knitted version at 
> http://www.qualitycaps.247e.info/pages/main/caps1.htm

What a great source!  In that case, the caps in Textiler Hausrat that I 
mentioned are: page 222 possibly a Holbein cap, but there is no visible 
split in the brim; page 130 definitely a Holbein cap and below it a 
Breughel, but without the turn-up at the front and with longer ear-flap 
extensions just at the sides.

Melanie Schuessler
http://www.faucet.net/costume

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I've been reading this with great interest. When I made my middle class Tudor (photos at photos.yahoo.com/anotherthurman; you have to navigate to the "Costume Projects/Historical" costume folder), I always thought it was too high, but left it because I didn't want to expose myself excessively. And though I always tried to shove the stays downwards they always crept back upwards. Now I know it's supposed to do that!

Allison T.

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
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> > As to the lower edge of the corset, I have noticed that people try
> > too hard to have that as low as possible. When I was taught corsetry,
> > I was told that with the corset on, if you bend to the side as much
> > as possible, it should not dig into the hip or the waist. It should
> > not be sitting on the hipline at all. That would put the bottom of
> > the corset at the lower edge of the ribcage and perhaps only a slight
> > bit below, as you describe.
>This is exactly what most people don't do (unfortunately!) I know know mine
>sits to low though thank goodness it never caused me problems and if I can
>modify it a bit maybe I can get it higher too.

I'm surprised that you think most people put the waist too low.  I have 
always been somewhat overweight, and find corsets/bodices sit better if 
their waists are somewhat above my actual waist.  I also put bodice/corset 
waists there for the people I do fittings for, and they don't complain 
later about the corset/bodice trying to shift upwards, away from the skirt, 
during the day.

This may be a Ren. Faire thing, but I can bend over much better if the 
waist of the corset/bodice is higher.  I tend to put it right at the bottom 
of the rib cage, as that's the top of a roll of extra me which doesn't like 
to be compressed.  This makes my skirt a little longer, but my skirt 
doesn't mind sitting on top of that roll of extra me either.  (I'm 5'6", 
and making my legs look longer is always a plus.)  If I want the bodice 
waistline pointed in front, I make it so, and this point helps deal with my 
tummy which doesn't mind being compressed in front.

I find many Italian examples of this higher waist and longer skirt 
combination in period illos of women who look like they weigh as much as I 
do.  Vecellio has lots of these.  The same trick works very well for 
mid-Victorian too, with their similar large skirts and bodices with pointed 
waists and low necklines.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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From: michaela <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum - observations
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> Also, I should add that compressing the bosom is a lot less comfortable 
> than hosting.  It's a more restrictive feeling and even somewhat painful 
> and takes some getting used to.

I have to admit it was quite uncomfortable in my black kirtle of my 
burgundian:
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/burgundian.htm

I am not excessively compressed either, this is what happens to an A cup;)

The real reason it's not comfortable is because the pressure is coming 
*down* rather than actually having support. Now I thought this was a 
fault in my design, but I don't think so. I think it's just a matter of 
adjusting properly while lacing. Actually it may even be a tad too loose 
at the top, which allows things to shift down over time.

Breast health is far more imoportant to me than getting the correct 
shape btw, and so I'd rather have equal pressure on all parts rather 
than essentially folding my breasts down to my chest. I don't need to be 
pulled out of shape any more thankyouverymuch.

So I just wanted to warn people that if it's uncomfortable it's not 
necessarily a good thing;) Lots of things are uncomfortable, some are 
fine, some can be harmful. Just as we have to learn to walk in period 
shoes, so we have to learn how to wear our support.

Surely what's needed is essentially a pull directly in, rather than a 
pull down feeling? If you pull down the bust becomes much lower. And 
while no the women didn't have bosoms up around their ears, neither did 
they appear to be pushed down.

michaela
http://glittersweet.com


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum - observations
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On Thu, 3 Jul 2003, michaela wrote:

> The real reason it's not comfortable is because the pressure is coming 
> *down* rather than actually having support ...
> Surely what's needed is essentially a pull directly in, rather than a 
> pull down feeling? If you pull down the bust becomes much lower. And 
> while no the women didn't have bosoms up around their ears, neither did 
> they appear to be pushed down.

Perhaps the trick I use for fitting (and dressing in) a 14th c. fitted
dress will work here: Lie down. The breast mass falls directly against the
body and spreads out, and it's fairly easy to manipulate what remains of
the protrusion to the desired level without "folding" in either direction.
I fit the dresses this way, and the wearer also lies down while lacing in.
You know you have it right when the breasts don't move when you stand up.
They're fairly evenly compressed, and the result is a gentle swell rather
than a shelf in either direction.

--Robin


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul  2 22:12:57 2003
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From: michael tartaglio <mikes@dandy.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan cap questions
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Status: RO

Hi, Marc. There are numerous examples of the "Tudor Flat Cap" extant in 
both knitted and cut cloth versions. Janet Arnold in her earlier period 
"Patterns" book shows cut ones. and there have been knitted ones 
recovered from the Baltic Sea (in a Venetian trade ship's chest), 
Scotland (Mairead Dunleavy and Richard Rutt's books both show them), 
London (City Museum) and, I believe, Germany. Other middle class 
headwear can include, but is not limited to, felted caps with a variety 
of brim sizes (also seen in Dunleavy and in the MoL). and knit brimless 
and folded brim caps which would later, in the mid-17th Cent., become 
known as Monmouth caps (due to the center of their trade and 
manufacture, Monmouth and the surrounding areas). Also for seamen, there 
was the ubiquitous Thrum Cap, which was a version of the "Monmouth" with 
tufts of wool (thrums) hooked into the knit. I have a great deal of 
information on the variety of these caps, as my wife and I have been 
experimenting with various styles (she knits, and I full and felt, then 
block the pieces). She has, so far, created brimmed and brimless knitted 
bonnets, skullcaps, "acorn" style (15th Cent.) caps, Monmouth caps, 
Thrum Caps, 15th Cent. style rolled brim caps, and the large, so-called 
"Peter the Great" 1 lb. Monmouth (made with 1 lb of wool) which greatly 
resembles the hat worn by the man on pg. 32 (pic. #219) of JA's PoF.
  I would be glad to share our info with you if you would like to send 
me a note at mikes@dandy.net I will be glad to cite the references and 
give you any assistance. Cheers, Mike T.

Marc Carlson wrote:

> I have a couple of somewhat strange questions.
>
> 1.   I am looking for extant examples of of what I've seen referred to 
> as a "Holbein" cap, or any other working and middle class hearwear 
> from the late 1500s.
>
> 2.  Anyone know how far back the use of the Monmouth Cap goes?
>
> Marc
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum - observations
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In a message dated 7/2/2003 8:48:10 PM Central Standard Time, 
robin@shell.nightowl.net writes:

> Perhaps the trick I use for fitting (and dressing in) a 14th c. fitted
> dress will work here: Lie down. The breast mass falls directly against the
> body and spreads out, and it's fairly easy to manipulate what remains of
> the protrusion to the desired level without "folding" in either direction.
> I fit the dresses this way, and the wearer also lies down while lacing in.
> You know you have it right when the breasts don't move when you stand up.
> They're fairly evenly compressed, and the result is a gentle swell rather
> than a shelf in either direction.
> 

Got any cool tricks for someone with itty-bitty and breastfeeding ravaged 
boobs? Actually, now that I think about it...I always make my corset and bodices 
pretty high because the only "shelf" I would get would look like two tiny 
sharpei puppies trying to escape. 

-Sarra Wryght
Elizabethan Dress Journals: http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/index.html
Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
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Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2003 17:53:08 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan cap questions
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At 11:04 AM -0500 7/2/03, Marc Carlson wrote:
>I have a couple of somewhat strange questions.
>
>1.   I am looking for extant examples of of what I've seen referred 
>to as a "Holbein" cap, or any other working and middle class 
>hearwear from the late 1500s.
>
>2.  Anyone know how far back the use of the Monmouth Cap goes?

There's a very useful article on the history of the Monmouth cap:

Buckland, Kirstie.  1979.  "Monmouth Cap" in  Costume:  13:23-37.

 From what I remember of the article, part of the issue involved in 
"how far back" is going to depend on what version of the cap you have 
in mind, since it evolved in style over the years while keeping the 
same name.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum - observations
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Got any cool tricks for someone with itty-bitty and breastfeeding
ravaged 
boobs? 

You won't like this, but you could gain some weight!  I know what you
mean though I've never breast fed and normally am a 36 b cup.  When I
get down to a comfortable weight, mine look just like you described.  I
have told my self when I loose the weight I want to I will get a boobie
tuck!

Sg

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>From: michael tartaglio <mikes@dandy.net>
>Hi, Marc. There are numerous examples of the "Tudor Flat Cap" extant in 
>both knitted and cut cloth versions. Janet Arnold in her earlier period 
>"Patterns" book shows cut ones...

Thank you, I -knew- I'd seen them someplace.  I'll drop you a note off list 
shortly

Marc

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>From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
>There's a very useful article on the history of the Monmouth cap:
>Buckland, Kirstie.  1979.  "Monmouth Cap" in  Costume:  13:23-37.

Thank you Ma'am.  I'll see if I can't track that down.

Marc

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum - observations
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Cassandra Greer wrote:

>>From Tudor and Elizabethan Portraits (http://www.tudor-portraits.com)
>>Elizabeth's phoenix portrait
>>http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth_13.jpg
> 
> I think Elizabeth may have had an ample amount up there ;) or it is just the
> artist

It must have been the artist, because Elizabeth was famously slender, 
not known to have been well-endowed at all.  Or it could be that this 
dress is just cut lower.  Though I agree with you that there are some 
examples where the center of the neckline rests perhaps 3" below the 
base of the neck, others are clearly 4" or 5" down.  It seems that there 
was an acceptable range which was not dependent on bust size.

> From Web Gallery of Art (http://gallery.euroweb.hu)
>> drawing of the family of Sir Thomas More
>> http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/h/holbein/hans_y/2drawing/1530/11family.jpg
> 
> Lady 1 (from the left) I find her neckline a bit low.

That's as may be, but my point is that a neckline that low was obviously 
acceptable to the people who were wearing it.

>>Ann Cresacre
>>http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Anne%20Cresacre.jpg
> 
> If find that this fits our description. It think if we could view it from
> the front it wouldn't seem as low.

Why would it look different from the front?  Just curious.  If you look 
at it using proportions, the distance from the base of her neck to the 
middle of her neckline (the dress, that is, not the chemise) is the same 
  as the distance from her eyebrows to her chin, which on most people is 
more than four inches.

> I also think (after thinking about it haha) that the curve of the top of the
> bodice we see so often (on the flat-chested examples) is at least partly an
> optical illusion

The curved neckline was a desirable fashion trait, cut into the bodice 
on purpose, at least according to Janet Arnold in both Patterns of 
Fashion and QEWU.  You can also see it in period pattern books such as 
Alcega's.

Thanks for the interesting discussion!

Melanie Schuessler
http://www.faucet.net/costume



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> The real reason it's not comfortable is because the pressure is coming
> *down* rather than actually having support. Now I thought this was a
> fault in my design, but I don't think so. I think it's just a matter
> of adjusting properly while lacing. Actually it may even be a tad too
> loose at the top, which allows things to shift down over time.

It shouldn't push up or down, nor should it be too constrictive 
(althugh they do look more compressed.)

> Breast health is far more imoportant to me than getting the correct
> shape btw, and so I'd rather have equal pressure on all parts rather
> than essentially folding my breasts down to my chest. I don't need to
> be pulled out of shape any more thankyouverymuch.

Frankly, a Tudor or Elizabethan corset is better for breast health 
than a bra, especially an underwire bra. There have been studies 
recently showing that modern bras tend to cut off the lymph flow from 
the breasts so that they are not "cleansed" the way they should be. 
It's been postulated that this is contributing to the rise in breast 
cancer. (I'd give you the references, but since they weren't 
pediatric related, I didn't keep them after I read them in the 
journals.)

> So I just wanted to warn people that if it's uncomfortable it's not
> necessarily a good thing;) Lots of things are uncomfortable, some are
> fine, some can be harmful. Just as we have to learn to walk in period
> shoes, so we have to learn how to wear our support.

An Elizabethan or Tudor corset should not be uncomfortable. It should 
support you properly. If it's not properly constructed, it will hurt 
like the dickens. Also, if it is not boned properly it will also 
hurt. 

People think that you need to use 1/2" stays for big women. However, 
I've corseted women with 56G/H breasts and had them comfortable only 
using 1/4" stays. But the stays have to be next to each other like 
you see in the Grafina Dorothea corset or Elizabeth I's corset, not 
placed as if they were only in every other bone case like you see 
with more modern corsets and many theatrical corsets.

> Surely what's needed is essentially a pull directly in, rather than a
> pull down feeling? If you pull down the bust becomes much lower. And
> while no the women didn't have bosoms up around their ears, neither
> did they appear to be pushed down.

Exactly. If you look at the portraits, the women don't look like 
they've moved their "girls" into odd positions (either up or down). 
They're gently held in place.

<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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> > In the Tudor gowns, the corset would show above the chemise if it
> > were as high as you say this one was.
> Why would it do that if the chemise was tucked in properly?

It just seems like the top of the corset would be higher than the 
area where I generally see the top of the chemise. (Possibly due to 
having trouble visualizing exactly where your line is.)

> >So it seems to me that a low necked gown would require a
> > lower top on the corset. But I usually put it so that it is about
> > 1", sometimes more, above the top of the brown part of the nipples
> > (aka the areolar edge). Many people tend to put it so that the
> > areolar edge is nearly showing. One slight movement and out they'd
> > pop. (Not a pretty sight!)
> Gee, your set point on me would have a large amount of cleavage
> showing (due to my ehem no longer young and definitely ample. But mine
> is higher and when I am squished properly sits (at the top) almost at
> the right point with only a minimal shelf.

That 1" is not the maximum. From your description, you'd probably 
have much more than 1" from the edge of the areola to the top of the 
corset. (I'm a DD and mine is about 1 1/2". Some I've done have had 
more. None are less than !".) My actual point was that most women 
seem to put that edge right at the edge of the areola. It doesn't 
look period to me either, and it certainly has what William Theiss 
used to refer to regarding his titillation theory.

> > As to the lower edge of the corset, I have noticed that people try
> > too hard to have that as low as possible. When I was taught
> > corsetry, I was told that with the corset on, if you bend to the
> > side as much as possible, it should not dig into the hip or the
> > waist. It should not be sitting on the hipline at all. That would
> > put the bottom of the corset at the lower edge of the ribcage and
> > perhaps only a slight bit below, as you describe.
> This is exactly what most people don't do (unfortunately!) I know know
> mine sits to low though thank goodness it never caused me problems and
> if I can modify it a bit maybe I can get it higher too.

Good luck. I *hate* doing alterations. I'd ratehr make an entirely 
new corset (and that's saying a lot.)

> > Besides, the corsets which are cut too low on the sides cut into the
> > hips and push up into the armpits. (Which is what always drove me
> > crazy about the one on Helene Bonham Carter in Lady Jane. That thing
> > did *not* fit her and it really showed whenever she slumped, which
> > she did a lot.)
> I do remember her slouching a lot - I wonder how much real women
> slouched ;) or whether everyone (who wore these things) was so trained
> that they sloped their shoulders back like they were supposed to :)))
> or whether it was just the actress letting her unperiod bad posture
> show through.

I wondered about that when I saw the movie. However, I can certainly 
slouch in my corsets (as well as do silly things like forward rolls) 
but it doesn't push up into my armpits or give me a funny empty space 
above the breasts like HB Carter had.

> > I don't think that sitting would help. In fact, sitting tends to
> > push things up more than if you are standing erect.
> I was thinking that it would maybe make the corset and therefore the
> bodice sit as I described...

You can try it, but I really don't think that you'd get that effect. 
If anything I think you'd get the opposite effect.

> > another unknown lady
> > http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Unknown%20Lady%20G.jpg
> I think this lady is quite endowed but without the 'bubble' marks, she
> looks a bit disformed (gee her waist seems really too narrow). But in
> the end if her breasts weren't so big I think her bodice would sit
> more as hypothesized.

Ouch. She does look deformed. Of course, her chemise/partlet hides 
what cleavage she would have. In some ways it almost looks like parts 
of it have been repainted. (Nice gloves. I'll have to bookmark this 
pic!)

> Variation is definitely to be expected - that is just how clothes and
> people are. However I think that the phenomenon we observed was the
> general desired effect and perhaps those pictures that show something
> different (lower neckline, etc) are due to larger breasts and maybe
> the artist. From the pictures I've seen so far, I spot a neckline that
> seems too low to me by looking where the corner (right or left) of the
> neckline sits. If it seems lower than the spot where the arm connects
> to the side than it is too low for what I -feel- was the desired
> effect from Tudor times to the beginning of the 17th century in Europe
> (not counting Italy and only the nobility).

Yep. That's the way I've thought they should look: no lower than the 
front muscle points.
> 
> I also think (after thinking about it haha) that the curve of the top
> of the bodice we see so often (on the flat-chested examples) is at
> least partly an optical illusion resulting from the curvature of the
> chest and the habit of sloping the shoulders down and back which would
> tilt the rib cage forward and up, as well as bringing the hips forward
> and arching the small of the back (this being eccentuated by the curve
> of the back of the dress - bumrolled, padded or whatever.).... ' Which
> reminds me, Birgit said Dorothea's dress had a bum roll. Now I don't
> know if this was really a detachable roll or was padding (attached to
> the dress). Does it say anthing about this in Janet Arnold's book? (I
> have ordered them but they aren't here yet).

JA's book (Patterns of Fashion 1560-1620) which has the dress and 
corset in it do not mention a bum roll. Too bad. I know that there 
are a lot of people who would like to see a real one!

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum - observations
From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Gee, don't pull them down! I squish them flat -it's uncomfortable but not
-that- uncomfortable! There is no pressure down except for normal gravity
and the horizontal pressure of the corset.

I think what Robin says in the her post is on target.

Cass :)

>> Also, I should add that compressing the bosom is a lot less comfortable
>> than hosting.  It's a more restrictive feeling and even somewhat painful
>> and takes some getting used to.
> 
> I have to admit it was quite uncomfortable in my black kirtle of my
> burgundian:
> http://costumes.glittersweet.com/burgundian.htm
> 
> I am not excessively compressed either, this is what happens to an A cup;)
> 
> The real reason it's not comfortable is because the pressure is coming
> *down* rather than actually having support. Now I thought this was a
> fault in my design, but I don't think so. I think it's just a matter of
> adjusting properly while lacing. Actually it may even be a tad too loose
> at the top, which allows things to shift down over time.
> 
> Breast health is far more imoportant to me than getting the correct
> shape btw, and so I'd rather have equal pressure on all parts rather
> than essentially folding my breasts down to my chest. I don't need to be
> pulled out of shape any more thankyouverymuch.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum - observations
From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Melanie wrote: 
> It must have been the artist, because Elizabeth was famously slender,
> not known to have been well-endowed at all.  Or it could be that this
> dress is just cut lower.  Though I agree with you that there are some
> examples where the center of the neckline rests perhaps 3" below the
> base of the neck, others are clearly 4" or 5" down.  It seems that there
> was an acceptable range which was not dependent on bust size.
I do not disagree that there is an 'acceptable range' but I hypothesize that
there is also a desirable target - this was also most likely subconscious in
the society of the time. So far (in my 36 hours of thinking about this) I
think it has not been noticed in modern times either - unless some of you
more well-read researchers out there can point me in the direction of
literature on the topic?

This kind of reminds me of the studies I read eons ago about aesthetic
factors/details that make a human face attractive. Researchers figured out
that there are certain geometric parameters (i.e. ranges) that got the 'most
attractive' responses along with a bit of asynchronicity (because people who
look too perfect went down a bit on the scale). (And now plastic surgery
clinics are milking this for all it is worth).

In this case it is like wearing jeans, all of us look a particular way
wearing jeans (if we wear them of course ;), yet no matter what we look like
in them, they are acceptable wear. Nevertheless there are people who, when
they wear jeans, receive wow responses from many people. I have developed
this feeling of where I think the optimal spot is for a corset/bodice to sit
on the body for this particular style. I developed it after seeing many
portraits. Of course there were some that didn't fit the ideal that my brain
came up with, but the majority did and so the ones that didn't jump out at
me as not quite being there.

> 
>> From Web Gallery of Art (http://gallery.euroweb.hu)
>>> drawing of the family of Sir Thomas More
>>> http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/h/holbein/hans_y/2drawing/1530/11family.jpg
>> 
>> Lady 1 (from the left) I find her neckline a bit low.
> 
> That's as may be, but my point is that a neckline that low was obviously
> acceptable to the people who were wearing it.
> 
>>> Ann Cresacre
>>> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Anne%20Cresacre.jpg
>> 
>> If find that this fits our description. It think if we could view it from
>> the front it wouldn't seem as low.
> 
> Why would it look different from the front?  Just curious.  If you look
> at it using proportions, the distance from the base of her neck to the
> middle of her neckline (the dress, that is, not the chemise) is the same
> as the distance from her eyebrows to her chin, which on most people is
> more than four inches.
Mmm I am not in agreement with the calculations of these proportions. Just
by taking a ruler and placing it on my monitor: From her eyebrow (arch - on
her left) vertically to the plane of her chin, I measure 3.1 cm. If I
measure from the top of the bodice (the line between the chemise and the
line below), 3.1 cm goes quite a bit further than the base of her neck.

As for why it I think it would look different is because from the side we
see how low it looks at the corners near the arms, but the posture and the
bodice curving around the chest make that part seem higher a bit.
 
>> I also think (after thinking about it haha) that the curve of the top of the
>> bodice we see so often (on the flat-chested examples) is at least partly an
>> optical illusion
> 
> The curved neckline was a desirable fashion trait, cut into the bodice
> on purpose, at least according to Janet Arnold in both Patterns of
> Fashion and QEWU.  You can also see it in period pattern books such as
> Alcega's.
I don't know about what J. Arnold says yet - the books are coming!


Cass :)

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum - observations
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        I made my Elizabethan corset from Margo's pattern.  And wore it
for almost a week at an event.  I was walking around on asphalt and
cement for from seven to twelve hours and at the end of the day my feet
and legs were killing me, but my back (that normally aches) was not at
all painful.  As far as the bust goes, I do tend to the squash flat
method and the corset was actually more comfortable than any bra I have
ever owned.  It doesn't seem reasonable, but there it is.  I love mine
and would wear it daily if it weren't so hot and so damned hard to get
into.  And it does give an odd shape for T-shirt and jeans.

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum - observations
From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
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Another interesting detail about this corset is that there is no boning
where the breasts sit. The breasts would only get the pressure of the
fabric. There is also no boning on the sides and only minimal in the back.

Cass :)

>> The real reason it's not comfortable is because the pressure is coming
>> *down* rather than actually having support. Now I thought this was a
>> fault in my design, but I don't think so. I think it's just a matter
>> of adjusting properly while lacing. Actually it may even be a tad too
>> loose at the top, which allows things to shift down over time.
> 
> It shouldn't push up or down, nor should it be too constrictive
> (althugh they do look more compressed.)
> 
>> Breast health is far more imoportant to me than getting the correct
>> shape btw, and so I'd rather have equal pressure on all parts rather
>> than essentially folding my breasts down to my chest. I don't need to
>> be pulled out of shape any more thankyouverymuch.
> 
> Frankly, a Tudor or Elizabethan corset is better for breast health
> than a bra, especially an underwire bra. There have been studies
> recently showing that modern bras tend to cut off the lymph flow from
> the breasts so that they are not "cleansed" the way they should be.
> It's been postulated that this is contributing to the rise in breast
> cancer. (I'd give you the references, but since they weren't
> pediatric related, I didn't keep them after I read them in the
> journals.)
> 
>> So I just wanted to warn people that if it's uncomfortable it's not
>> necessarily a good thing;) Lots of things are uncomfortable, some are
>> fine, some can be harmful. Just as we have to learn to walk in period
>> shoes, so we have to learn how to wear our support.
> 
> An Elizabethan or Tudor corset should not be uncomfortable. It should
> support you properly. If it's not properly constructed, it will hurt
> like the dickens. Also, if it is not boned properly it will also
> hurt. 
> 
> People think that you need to use 1/2" stays for big women. However,
> I've corseted women with 56G/H breasts and had them comfortable only
> using 1/4" stays. But the stays have to be next to each other like
> you see in the Grafina Dorothea corset or Elizabeth I's corset, not
> placed as if they were only in every other bone case like you see
> with more modern corsets and many theatrical corsets.
> 
>> Surely what's needed is essentially a pull directly in, rather than a
>> pull down feeling? If you pull down the bust becomes much lower. And
>> while no the women didn't have bosoms up around their ears, neither
>> did they appear to be pushed down.
> 
> Exactly. If you look at the portraits, the women don't look like
> they've moved their "girls" into odd positions (either up or down).
> They're gently held in place.
> 
> <kat@redtrollforge.com>

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Date: Thu, 03 Jul 2003 14:24:06 +0200
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum - observations
From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Mine is a variation of the corset generator corset. After I get used to the
corset (it has warmed up and the broom has started to become more pliable),
it is quite comfortable. I also slouch a lot and I find that wearing a
corset is especially convenient when there is no back to your chair ;)

Cass :)


>       I made my Elizabethan corset from Margo's pattern.  And wore it
> for almost a week at an event.  I was walking around on asphalt and
> cement for from seven to twelve hours and at the end of the day my feet
> and legs were killing me, but my back (that normally aches) was not at
> all painful.  As far as the bust goes, I do tend to the squash flat
> method and the corset was actually more comfortable than any bra I have
> ever owned.  It doesn't seem reasonable, but there it is.  I love mine
> and would wear it daily if it weren't so hot and so damned hard to get
> into.  And it does give an odd shape for T-shirt and jeans.
> 
> Lalah
> Never give up, Never surrender
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2003 08:15:24 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum - observations
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On Wed, 2 Jul 2003 kat@grendal.rain.com wrote:

> > > http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Unknown%20Lady%20G.jpg
> > I think this lady is quite endowed but without the 'bubble' marks, she
> > looks a bit disformed (gee her waist seems really too narrow). But in
> > the end if her breasts weren't so big I think her bodice would sit
> > more as hypothesized.
> 
> Ouch. She does look deformed. Of course, her chemise/partlet hides 
> what cleavage she would have. In some ways it almost looks like parts 
> of it have been repainted.

It screams "repainted" to me. Many portraits of this era have had heavy
restoration, and it looks like we're seeing a later (as late as 19th
century) hand in the shaping of the torso, parts of the face, possibly the
whole background. The site creator gives no info on the picture or where
he found it, just "An unknown lady.  Formerly called Mary Queen of Scots
by an unknown artist, c.1560." If it was out of, say, a Sotheby's catalog,
it's anyone's guess who she was or how many hands were on this painting.

--Robin

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From: "Cyn Bucheger" <cbucheger@paclp.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <BB29EB4E.19D10%cassandra@greer.de>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum - observations
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In studying the issue of bust support through several eras, I noticed that
it seemed that when the corset first came into use it was in Spain, England
and France.  Most areas of Italy and Germany tended not to use corsets until
later 16 C, when everyone was wearing them.

It may be just me, but when thinking of busty women, I'm more incline to
start naming German or Italian women, not Spanish, English or French.  Could
this whole corset issue be because those that first started to wear and use
corsets are genetically inclined to be smaller busted?  And that's why we
don't see a lot of shape in the English portraits of these eras?  Or maybe I
should spend some more time in the portraiture galleries...

Cyn


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  I love mine
> and would wear it daily if it weren't so hot and so damned hard to get
> into.  And it does give an odd shape for T-shirt and jeans.
>
> Lalah
> Never give up, Never surrender

AMEN! Although I have to see if I can take the sides in a bit on mine - I
seem to have dropped some weight since first constructing it (in one sense -
YAY; in another - grrrr ;-)

I have also pondered a bit the thought of a sports corset. My husband and I
are starting to run, and I commented that my corset certainly holds me
better than any sports bra I have worn (now I have not sprung for the $40+
bras, so I don't know how they would work). And that just naturally led to
"how would I make a corset that was sports-proof?" Would steel boning work,
or would I need some other, lighter material? What about fabric - CoolMax
corsets? And of course, how would it be marketed? I can't see a whole lot of
women being excited about wearing a *corset* to exercise in! Any thoughts?
(gee, maybe I *should* look at some sort of patent on this!)

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot
BRF FOF; Guilde of St. Lawrence

A room without books is like a body without a soul
---Cicero

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************

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Subject: [h-cost] Corset Comfort
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Finally caught up on the digests from vacation and this is an
ohsoapropro thread for me :).  I have always found that when fitted
right (whatever is comfortable for you) a corset is much more
comfortable than my underwire and I can wear it all day.  I have demoed
bobbin lace at faire in my corset and hadn't had any pain in the back or
shoulders from hunching over the pillow pretty much all day (bench butt,
but no back pain :) ).  A couple of weekends ago I finally was able to
attend a 2-day lace workshop, doing pretty much the same thing and Oy,
did my back and upper shoulders hurt!  I had always wondered how those
little old ladies in the postcards from Belgium had managed to do lace
for all those years without ruining their posture, now I know :).

Tip for adjusting 'the girls' from the 'madam' at our local renfaire
(this is for the renfest cleveage but might help with others): take the
flesh from under the arm and pull forward, then tuck the front/nipple
down.  I've had a fairly low neckline several times and never worried
about falling out with a good fit and this method for 'adjusting'.

Great discussion on the the 16thC corset at BayNat, thanks for the
insights!

Catherine
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Subject: [h-cost] Washing linen
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Was wondering if anyone else had heard of this method for softening
linen: wash it in Dawn.  I have a bunch of linen to prewash and this was
recommended to me.  Anyone else try it?

I have also been told that if you pre-soak a new swimsuit in a weak
vineagar solution it will hold up a lot longer to the chlorine from the
pool.  Again, anyone have experience with this?

Catherine
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Status: RO

  Hi,

STill tired and feel like my brains are fried but happy.
The SCA event we went to was great!
Here are some pictures
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/DTYC/DTYC.html
I still don't have nice pictures of me wearing te partlet :-[
And the picture of my dress isn't very flattering.
I was tired and it was so hot that I decided not to wear my corset.

Her are some pictures of my back
http://www.skauma.org/bildarkiv/dynpage.cgi?last=1057166908&dir=/2003/dw10yc/frid-evn/P6204316.jpg
http://www.skauma.org/bildarkiv/dynpage.cgi?last=1057166908&dir=/2003/dw10yc/frid-evn/P6204318.jpg

There was no Arts and science contest but a display where I talked with 
some people over my dress.
But too my supprise I've got an aword for all the work I put in making 
costumes.
They made me a member of the Order of the Panache. :-) :-) :-)

Order of the Panache
The Panache is the awarded to those who have distinguished themselves by 
long and consistent excellence in the Arts (and Sciences) and who have 
also constantly made their expertise available to the various members of 
the Kingdom.  The symbol of the Order is (Fieldless) issuant to chief 
from a torteau charged with a bezant pierced sable three feathers gules, 
Or and Sable.

Unfortionally I had an exident with my dress. Someone had a pack of 
blackberry juse standing on the ground an kicked it over. So there were 
some purple stains on my dress :-( :-( . We tried to take it out by 
putting salt on the stains. The stains are almost gone. But making white 
silk satin wet with water already distrois the fabrick. Grrrr....

I now have so many ideas of what I want to make....
A hat where I can sow the Panache token on,  New corset, Two different 
16th century dresses, A Robe a la Francaise(bought Kyoto book).....

Greetings,
        Deredere



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Robin Netherton wrote:

>>http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Unknown%20Lady%20G.jpg
> 
> It screams "repainted" to me. Many portraits of this era have had heavy
> restoration, and it looks like we're seeing a later (as late as 19th
> century) hand in the shaping of the torso, parts of the face, possibly the
> whole background. The site creator gives no info on the picture or where
> he found it, just "An unknown lady.  Formerly called Mary Queen of Scots
> by an unknown artist, c.1560." If it was out of, say, a Sotheby's catalog,
> it's anyone's guess who she was or how many hands were on this painting.

It's from the National Portrait Gallery, also found in Queen Elizabeth's 
Wardrobe Unlock'd, fig. 242 (though Arnold dates it to 1575-80).  The 
NPG site has this to say:

NPG 96
Unknown woman, formerly known as Mary, Queen of Scots
by Unknown artist
Date: circa 1560
Medium: oil on canvas
Measurements: 37 7/8 in. x 27 5/8 in. (962 mm x 702 mm)
Primary Collection
On display at Montacute House

This portrait was originally acquired by the Gallery from a private 
owner who believed it to be of Mary, Queen of Scots. Despite the fact 
that the portrait includes many symbols connected with Mary subsequent 
examination revealed that the portrait had been much repainted. By 1888 
it was thought to be of Mary's mother, Mary of Lorraine, but this 
identification was discounted on the basis of the costume. Extensive 
analysis in the 1960s confirmed that it was painted in about 1560 but 
the identity of the sitter is yet to be discovered. In its current state 
it is a charming portrait with an unusual landscape setting including a 
distant view of mountains, a castle and a hilltop town.

Cheers,
Melanie Schuessler
http://www.faucet.net/costume

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Congratulations! We always knew you had Panache and now it's official! 


Karen

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan cap questions
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Marc wrote:
> I have a couple of somewhat strange questions.
> 
> 1.   I am looking for extant examples of of what I've seen referred to as a 
> "Holbein" cap, or any other working and middle class hearwear from the late 
> 1500s.
> 
> 2.  Anyone know how far back the use of the Monmouth Cap goes?

I found examples of those kinds of caps in "The History of Handknitting"
which I recently picked up.  I don't have the bibliographic details
handy, but you should be able to find it easily enough; it's in print,
and quite recent too I think.

K.
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum - observations
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On Thu, 3 Jul 2003, Melanie Schuessler wrote:

> Robin Netherton wrote:
> 
> >>http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Unknown%20Lady%20G.jpg
> > 
> > It screams "repainted" to me. Many portraits of this era have had heavy
> > restoration, and it looks like we're seeing a later (as late as 19th
> > century) hand in the shaping of the torso, parts of the face, possibly the
> > whole background.

> It's from the National Portrait Gallery, also found in Queen Elizabeth's 
> Wardrobe Unlock'd, fig. 242 (though Arnold dates it to 1575-80).  The 
> NPG site has this to say:
> ...
> This portrait was originally acquired by the Gallery from a private 
> owner who believed it to be of Mary, Queen of Scots. Despite the fact 
> that the portrait includes many symbols connected with Mary subsequent 
> examination revealed that the portrait had been much repainted.

Aha. I'd nail that background as being a later addition, which calls the
torso profile into question.

I bet there's an interesting file on it at NPG. I wonder what X-ray would
show...

--Robin


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Hi,

I found this picture.
Recreating this dress would take lots of pearls.
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Pearldress/Pearldress.html
I would be to affraid that I will loose many pearls by wearing it

Greetings,
        Deredere


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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum - observations
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>
> I have also pondered a bit the thought of a sports corset. My husband and I
> are starting to run, and I commented that my corset certainly holds me
> better than any sports bra I have worn (now I have not sprung for the $40+
> bras, so I don't know how they would work). And that just naturally led to
> "how would I make a corset that was sports-proof?" Would steel boning work,
> or would I need some other, lighter material? What about fabric - CoolMax
> corsets? And of course, how would it be marketed? I can't see a whole lot of
> women being excited about wearing a *corset* to exercise in! Any thoughts?

Hm...my instinct would be to make it of lightweight linen, which draws
sweat away from the body better than any other natural fabric, and corset
reed. The reed is lightweight and flexible, and since you just want mongo
support instead of an ultra flat front, would be enough to do the trick.
Being natural, it also breathes.  Though you wouldn't be able to wash it
in the machine, which could create a stank issue after a while.

Drea




> (gee, maybe I *should* look at some sort of patent on this!)
>
> **********************
> Rebecca Schmitt
> aka Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot
> BRF FOF; Guilde of St. Lawrence
>
> A room without books is like a body without a soul
> ---Cicero
>
> lotsofteapots@charter.net
> **********************
>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum - observations
In-Reply-To: <BFBF3057-ACA4-11D7-B27C-0003934DD4B0@elizabethanlady.com>
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Sarah wrote:
> 
> What it amounted to was that I was hoisting my breasts upward in my 
> kirtle (and with my corsets) which gave the shelf look at top.  What 
> Ben suggested trying was *flattening* my bosom rather than hauling up.  
> I guess a better way to describe it would be let the fabric compress my 
> breasts without pulling them up so that they give me the TOAP look.  In 
> the second photo I've done just this and guess what?  The neckline 
> falls correctly and doesn't look too low!  I still have a noticeable 
> bit of cleavage at top, but that's the nature of the beasties.  ;)
> 
> Also, I should add that compressing the bosom is a lot less comfortable 
> than hosting.  It's a more restrictive feeling and even somewhat 
> painful and takes some getting used to.

Actually, I find compressing the breasts inwards to be pretty
comfortable, compared to hoisting them upwards.  The trick is to push
them "inwards" towards your torso, just like if you were wearing a
sturdy sports bra.  Your nipples should stay in the same place (when
seen from the front) as when you are not wearing the bodice... perhaps a
*smidgen* higher than where they naturally sit, but not more than about
an inch higher unless you're particularly saggy.  Not as high as most
modern bras put them, anyway.

The breast should kind of be squished flat with the nipple in the same
place, rather than hoisted up or pushed down.  Though if you want
cleavage *without* TOAP or having your nipples pop out the top of the
bodice, the trick is to keep your nipples at the same *height* as they
were originally, but move them *inwards*...  front-lacing bodices help
with this naturally but with a back or side-back lacing one you'll have
to reach in and move the puppies around a bit.  

The overall tightness of the bodice should be the minimum to keep your
nipples where you put them, and no tighter.  This overall strategy leads
to a more "conical" shape to your bodices, and less curvy.

Here's a pic of me in a bodice that fits that way... nipples are about
3" below the top of the bodice, I think (I'm a DD):
http://infotrope.net/sca/album//projects/costuming/2001-reddress/katherine4.jpg

Here's a side view of the same outfit:
http://infotrope.net/sca/album//projects/costuming/2001-reddress/katherine5.jpg

K.


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The History of Handknitting by Bishop Richard Rutt was out of print for
a long time and was recently (April) reprinted by Interweave Press 
ISBN 1-931499-37-3
Wendy

Kirrily Robert wrote:
> 
> Marc wrote:
> > I have a couple of somewhat strange questions.
> >
> > 1.   I am looking for extant examples of of what I've seen referred to as a
> > "Holbein" cap, or any other working and middle class hearwear from the late
> > 1500s.
> >
> > 2.  Anyone know how far back the use of the Monmouth Cap goes?
> 
> I found examples of those kinds of caps in "The History of Handknitting"
> which I recently picked up.  I don't have the bibliographic details
> handy, but you should be able to find it easily enough; it's in print,
> and quite recent too I think.
> 
> K.
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> Another interesting detail about this corset is that there is no
> boning where the breasts sit. The breasts would only get the pressure
> of the fabric. There is also no boning on the sides and only minimal
> in the back.

In doing some experimentation with this, we found that busty women 
*should* *not* do this. It actually causes the bones to bite into the 
breast tissue. The skinny women had no problems.

Some of the people involved in the "experiment" postulated that this 
style may have been for women who were going through puberty: still 
small but with very tender breasts. (Those breast buds are painful 
little things. I used to get several mommas every spring bringing 
their newly pubescent girls in thinking that they must have breast 
cancer because they were so painful. Nope, just the first onslaught 
of estrogen stimulation. I always wondered if these girls would also 
get the pre-menstrual breast pain. But that is often more common in 
caffeine consumers.)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Melanie Schuessler wrote:

> Cassandra Greer wrote:
>
>> I do not disagree that there is an 'acceptable range' but I 
>> hypothesize that
>> there is also a desirable target - this was also most likely 
>> subconscious in
>> the society of the time. So far (in my 36 hours of thinking about 
>> this) I
>> think it has not been noticed in modern times either - unless some of 
>> you
>> more well-read researchers out there can point me in the direction of
>> literature on the topic
>
>
> No, I don't think anything has been written about the optimal neckline 
> level in the 16th century--maybe you should write an article!  Perhaps 
> it would help convince cleavage-addicted people to cover up a bit 
> more.  (I'm speaking mainly of those whose breasts cast a shadow on 
> the outside of their bodice...) 

That is an interesting idea! With pictures of paintings compeared to 
recreated gowns on real people.
The placing of the straps of the courset and bodice is also very 
important. I will post someting about that but my food is ready :-) .

Greetings,
        Deredere

>
>
> regarding
>
>>> Ann Cresacre
>>> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Anne%20Cresacre.jpg
>>
>
>> Mmm I am not in agreement with the calculations of these proportions. 
>> Just
>> by taking a ruler and placing it on my monitor: From her eyebrow 
>> (arch - on
>> her left) vertically to the plane of her chin, I measure 3.1 cm. If I
>> measure from the top of the bodice (the line between the chemise and the
>> line below), 3.1 cm goes quite a bit further than the base of her neck.
>
>
> We're measuring from different places.  I'm measuring to the black 
> line that marks the edge of her outer gown.  But I think we basically 
> agree, though we probably differ in our thoughts about what the 
> "ideal" was. While you're thinking about what to put in your article, 
> you might consider doing a broad survey of Tudor and comparing it with 
> a broad survey of Elizabethan.  It looks to me like the Tudors favored 
> a slightly lower neckline than the Elizabethans in general.  There 
> also might be regional differences.  We haven't even talked about the 
> Italians...
>
>> I don't know about what J. Arnold says yet - the books are coming!
>
>
> You will love them!
>
> Melanie Schuessler
> http://www.faucet.net/costume
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum - observations
From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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> Cassandra Greer wrote:
> 
>> I do not disagree that there is an 'acceptable range' but I hypothesize that
>> there is also a desirable target - this was also most likely subconscious in
>> the society of the time. So far (in my 36 hours of thinking about this) I
>> think it has not been noticed in modern times either - unless some of you
>> more well-read researchers out there can point me in the direction of
>> literature on the topic
> 
> No, I don't think anything has been written about the optimal neckline
> level in the 16th century--maybe you should write an article!
Hmmmm :))))

>Perhaps 
> it would help convince cleavage-addicted people to cover up a bit more.
> (I'm speaking mainly of those whose breasts cast a shadow on the
> outside of their bodice...)
LOL!!! :)))

> 
> regarding
>>> Ann Cresacre
>>> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Anne%20Cresacre.jpg
> 
>> Mmm I am not in agreement with the calculations of these proportions. Just
>> by taking a ruler and placing it on my monitor: From her eyebrow (arch - on
>> her left) vertically to the plane of her chin, I measure 3.1 cm. If I
>> measure from the top of the bodice (the line between the chemise and the
>> line below), 3.1 cm goes quite a bit further than the base of her neck.
> 
> We're measuring from different places.  I'm measuring to the black line
> that marks the edge of her outer gown.  But I think we basically agree,
> though we probably differ in our thoughts about what the "ideal" was.
> While you're thinking about what to put in your article, you might
> consider doing a broad survey of Tudor and comparing it with a broad
> survey of Elizabethan.  It looks to me like the Tudors favored a
> slightly lower neckline than the Elizabethans in general.  There also
> might be regional differences.  We haven't even talked about the Italians...

Ah the Italians. If you noticed I specifically avoided them because from
what I've seen they pretty much were not into a higher neckline :)

Gee an article - as if I didn't have enough to do! (heheheeh) I will have to
look around to see if there is some literature somewhere...

At any rate I guess I need to start collecting picturs and making
measurments and stuff - hey Deredere! Let's do it!

Cass :)

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum - observations
From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Oops ok! Dorothea was definitely on the petite side!

Cass :)

>> Another interesting detail about this corset is that there is no
>> boning where the breasts sit. The breasts would only get the pressure
>> of the fabric. There is also no boning on the sides and only minimal
>> in the back.
> 
> In doing some experimentation with this, we found that busty women
> *should* *not* do this. It actually causes the bones to bite into the
> breast tissue. The skinny women had no problems.
> 
> Some of the people involved in the "experiment" postulated that this
> style may have been for women who were going through puberty: still
> small but with very tender breasts. (Those breast buds are painful
> little things. I used to get several mommas every spring bringing
> their newly pubescent girls in thinking that they must have breast
> cancer because they were so painful. Nope, just the first onslaught
> of estrogen stimulation. I always wondered if these girls would also
> get the pre-menstrual breast pain. But that is often more common in
> caffeine consumers.)
> 
> Kat
> <kat@redtrollforge.com>
> 
> 
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From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: corset too low
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This is slightly off-topic but I thought you might enjoy this funny modern
example of a corset being too low around the hips.

I was in a wedding last year and I had to wear a strapless dress. The
strapless shapers I tried on at modern department stores were laughable, and
I am only a size 10. They fell right off. I went to a bridal store and the
lady said I needed a "Goddess" shaper, which I take it is specially made for
full-figured women, a description of myself that I find hilarious. Anyway, I
tried it on and it was fantastic! I could have jumped on a trampoline in
that thing without going anywhere.

BUT -- I have a short waist. This was the most comfortable undergarment I've
ever worn, until we sat down to dinner (we changed at the site). After about
20 minutes I felt a stabbing pain under my left breast -- the steel bone had
been pushed up by my hips and had finally bent inwards! No, I wasn't really
stabbed -- but it was horribly uncomfortable for the rest of the day. The
shaper is made do go over the hips and give you some tummy control, but it's
about an inch too long.

Oh well, I guess for something like that to really fit I'd have to have it
custom made. And maybe it would actually be worth the price for the comfort.
I would definitely have it end at around my natural (high) waist. The dress,
which was altered, didn't look right to me either -- I guess I'm too used to
fitting costumes and seeing fitted gowns to be satisfied with an altered
off-the-shelf bridesmaid dress, even if it did cost $200!

Gail Finke

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Subject: [h-cost] Feelin' ignernt
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huh??


--- Kirrily Robert <skud@infotrope.net> wrote:
> > so that they give
> me the TOAP look

> Though if you want
> cleavage *without* TOAP 

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I'm glad someone asked, because I just can't figure this one out!!!



btw, I LOVE this conversation.  It's something that's been poking around in 
my foggy mind but hadn't really come to light until you all started 
discussing.  Thanks!

:)  jessica




>huh??
>
>
>--- Kirrily Robert <skud@infotrope.net> wrote:
> > > so that they give
> > me the TOAP look
>
> > Though if you want
> > cleavage *without* TOAP
>

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TOAP is "tits on a platter".

K.
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I've always heard "tits on a ritz" which I like better ;)


> 
> TOAP is "tits on a platter".
> 
> K.
> _______________________________________________
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From: Angela Kovatch <ivyharpdotcom@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Feelin' ignernt
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Ahh. Thanks.

--- Kirrily Robert <skud@infotrope.net> wrote:
> TOAP is "tits on a platter".
> 
> K.
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Beteena Paradise" <bkessinger@ureach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <3F0455CF.9030805@kabelfoon.nl>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] For people who thought my partlet was a lot of work :-)
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And I would bet it would be extremely heavy.... lovely, but heavy.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Deredere Galbraith" <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2003 12:11 PM
Subject: [h-cost] For people who thought my partlet was a lot of work :-)


> Hi,
> 
> I found this picture.
> Recreating this dress would take lots of pearls.
> http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Pearldress/Pearldress.html
> I would be to affraid that I will loose many pearls by wearing it
> 
> Greetings,
>         Deredere
> 
> 
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> 
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Feelin' ignernt
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Hi :-)
I am confused, dont understand anything (grins)
But it must be a girl thing!!!

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Angela Kovatch" <ivyharpdotcom@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2003 8:51 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Feelin' ignernt


> Ahh. Thanks.
> 
> --- Kirrily Robert <skud@infotrope.net> wrote:
> > TOAP is "tits on a platter".
> > 
> > K.
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] For people who thought my partlet was a lot of work :-)
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Hi.
Yes, this has made me wonder many times, it seems to be an impossible thing,
if those pearls are real.
Could they have used some fake pearls somehow?
Made of ?

Bjarne


Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Beteena Paradise" <bkessinger@ureach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2003 8:50 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] For people who thought my partlet was a lot of work
:-)


> And I would bet it would be extremely heavy.... lovely, but heavy.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Deredere Galbraith" <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
> To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2003 12:11 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] For people who thought my partlet was a lot of work :-)
>
>
> > Hi,
> >
> > I found this picture.
> > Recreating this dress would take lots of pearls.
> > http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Pearldress/Pearldress.html
> > I would be to affraid that I will loose many pearls by wearing it
> >
> > Greetings,
> >         Deredere
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jul  3 15:24:48 2003
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <BB29DCE9.9ACE%gailscott@eos.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: corset too low
Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2003 21:21:15 +0200
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Hi,
All this talk about corsets, lovely...........
I have a question,
I am making a skirt and a caraco jacket. And because i have to drape it on
the dress stand, i make a corset two, because it would be impossible to make
without.
Anyway i am using this Wissner artificially whalebone from Germany, and i
wondered if i could steam and iron it into the shape i want. I really would
like to make that beautifull fashionable curved back used in the late 18th
century.
If i ironed it while it is on the dresstand, and then let it get cold
again.....................
Anyone with any experiences with this?

Bjarne


Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gail & Scott Finke" <gailscott@eos.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2003 7:15 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: corset too low


>
> This is slightly off-topic but I thought you might enjoy this funny modern
> example of a corset being too low around the hips.
>
> I was in a wedding last year and I had to wear a strapless dress. The
> strapless shapers I tried on at modern department stores were laughable,
and
> I am only a size 10. They fell right off. I went to a bridal store and the
> lady said I needed a "Goddess" shaper, which I take it is specially made
for
> full-figured women, a description of myself that I find hilarious. Anyway,
I
> tried it on and it was fantastic! I could have jumped on a trampoline in
> that thing without going anywhere.
>
> BUT -- I have a short waist. This was the most comfortable undergarment
I've
> ever worn, until we sat down to dinner (we changed at the site). After
about
> 20 minutes I felt a stabbing pain under my left breast -- the steel bone
had
> been pushed up by my hips and had finally bent inwards! No, I wasn't
really
> stabbed -- but it was horribly uncomfortable for the rest of the day. The
> shaper is made do go over the hips and give you some tummy control, but
it's
> about an inch too long.
>
> Oh well, I guess for something like that to really fit I'd have to have it
> custom made. And maybe it would actually be worth the price for the
comfort.
> I would definitely have it end at around my natural (high) waist. The
dress,
> which was altered, didn't look right to me either -- I guess I'm too used
to
> fitting costumes and seeing fitted gowns to be satisfied with an altered
> off-the-shelf bridesmaid dress, even if it did cost $200!
>
> Gail Finke
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <3F044B65.7030103@kabelfoon.nl>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Back from vakation
Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2003 21:28:35 +0200
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Hi Deredere,
Lovely pictures, you looked great, and congratulations with the avard!
Where did this take place? It looks so good, is it Norwegian?
Please forgive me my ignorance, i have no idea where it was, but it looks
soo great!

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Deredere Galbraith" <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2003 5:27 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Back from vakation


>   Hi,
>
> STill tired and feel like my brains are fried but happy.
> The SCA event we went to was great!
> Here are some pictures
> http://www.deredere.dds.nl/DTYC/DTYC.html
> I still don't have nice pictures of me wearing te partlet :-[
> And the picture of my dress isn't very flattering.
> I was tired and it was so hot that I decided not to wear my corset.
>
> Her are some pictures of my back
>
http://www.skauma.org/bildarkiv/dynpage.cgi?last=1057166908&dir=/2003/dw10yc
/frid-evn/P6204316.jpg
>
http://www.skauma.org/bildarkiv/dynpage.cgi?last=1057166908&dir=/2003/dw10yc
/frid-evn/P6204318.jpg
>
> There was no Arts and science contest but a display where I talked with
> some people over my dress.
> But too my supprise I've got an aword for all the work I put in making
> costumes.
> They made me a member of the Order of the Panache. :-) :-) :-)
>
> Order of the Panache
> The Panache is the awarded to those who have distinguished themselves by
> long and consistent excellence in the Arts (and Sciences) and who have
> also constantly made their expertise available to the various members of
> the Kingdom.  The symbol of the Order is (Fieldless) issuant to chief
> from a torteau charged with a bezant pierced sable three feathers gules,
> Or and Sable.
>
> Unfortionally I had an exident with my dress. Someone had a pack of
> blackberry juse standing on the ground an kicked it over. So there were
> some purple stains on my dress :-( :-( . We tried to take it out by
> putting salt on the stains. The stains are almost gone. But making white
> silk satin wet with water already distrois the fabrick. Grrrr....
>
> I now have so many ideas of what I want to make....
> A hat where I can sow the Panache token on,  New corset, Two different
> 16th century dresses, A Robe a la Francaise(bought Kyoto book).....
>
> Greetings,
>         Deredere
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jul  3 15:53:07 2003
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Date: Thu, 03 Jul 2003 12:39:27 -0700
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] For people who thought my partlet was a lot of  work :-)
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At 09:15 PM 7/3/2003 +0200, you wrote:
>Hi.
>Yes, this has made me wonder many times, it seems to be an impossible thing,
>if those pearls are real.
>Could they have used some fake pearls somehow?
>Made of ?
>
>Bjarne


Deredere, how heavy was your partlet? Have you weighed it?

And I don't know if Lynn is on this group list, but after creating her 
chemise of pearls, she might have some idea perhaps? 
http://www.lynnmcmasters.com/chemise.html

And I have heard of fake pearls during this time, but I have forgotten what 
they were made of... a paste of some sort, was it fish scales? Ah, found 
the book... _Bead Embroidery_ ... not during the 16th c., but later (1660s) 
there is a description of how fake pearls are made using fish scales.

I would think that the Queen/Queen Mother of such standing as Catherine 
would have made the dress from real pearls. But my pondering is... were 
they actually all beautiful round warm water pearls as we know them today, 
or were they possibly freshwater pearls and made more perfect by the artist?

Just some ponderings...

Kimiko



Kimiko Small
Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
kimiko@kimiko1.com; http://www.kimiko1.com
"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jul  3 15:57:17 2003
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Date: Thu, 03 Jul 2003 21:57:27 +0200
From: Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] For people who thought my partlet was a lot of work
 :-)
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I am not sure when they started to make fake pearls.
You can make fake pearls by grinding mother of pearl and glue it unto 
glass balls ore something.
Maby I can find it in one of my books...

Greetings,
        Deredere

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

>Hi.
>Yes, this has made me wonder many times, it seems to be an impossible thing,
>if those pearls are real.
>Could they have used some fake pearls somehow?
>Made of ?
>
>Bjarne
>
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Beteena Paradise" <bkessinger@ureach.com>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2003 8:50 PM
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] For people who thought my partlet was a lot of work
>:-)
>
>
>  
>
>>And I would bet it would be extremely heavy.... lovely, but heavy.
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Deredere Galbraith" <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
>>To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>>Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2003 12:11 PM
>>Subject: [h-cost] For people who thought my partlet was a lot of work :-)
>>
>>
>>    
>>
>>>Hi,
>>>
>>>I found this picture.
>>>Recreating this dress would take lots of pearls.
>>>http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Pearldress/Pearldress.html
>>>I would be to affraid that I will loose many pearls by wearing it
>>>
>>>Greetings,
>>>        Deredere
>>>
>>>
>>>_______________________________________________
>>>h-costume mailing list
>>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>
>>>
>>>      
>>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>>
>>    
>>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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>
>  
>

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jul  3 16:13:04 2003
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Date: Thu, 03 Jul 2003 13:42:25 +0200
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum - observations
From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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> 
>>> As to the lower edge of the corset, I have noticed that people try
>>> too hard to have that as low as possible. When I was taught corsetry,
>>> I was told that with the corset on, if you bend to the side as much
>>> as possible, it should not dig into the hip or the waist. It should
>>> not be sitting on the hipline at all. That would put the bottom of
>>> the corset at the lower edge of the ribcage and perhaps only a slight
>>> bit below, as you describe.
>> This is exactly what most people don't do (unfortunately!) I know know mine
>> sits to low though thank goodness it never caused me problems and if I can
>> modify it a bit maybe I can get it higher too.
> 
> I'm surprised that you think most people put the waist too low.  I have
> always been somewhat overweight, and find corsets/bodices sit better if
> their waists are somewhat above my actual waist.  I also put bodice/corset
> waists there for the people I do fittings for, and they don't complain
> later about the corset/bodice trying to shift upwards, away from the skirt,
> during the day.
On reflection these 'most' are 'mostly' ones that aren't overweight - At
least with me being overweight, my natural rolls automatically kept my
corset from getting toooo low ;)

Cass :)

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jul  3 16:13:12 2003
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Date: Thu, 03 Jul 2003 07:40:35 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Brenda <webwarren@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum -
  observations
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Hmm.

I've always felt uncomfortable with corsets that don't try to cover the 
entire areole: too much chance of "overflow" during the day. (Forget about 
"ToaP", these are more like T *overflowing* the P.) Add to this that I've 
lost rather a bit of weight this past year, and the ladies are more flesh 
than fat. Right now, "hoisting" tends to create the "Ugly Duchess" effect. 
Badly. OTOH, letting them hang and compressing them leaves little room for 
me being able to move around as needed.

Using the lower-cut corset, I think getting the "hang" of fit may be a 
matter of lifting the ladies *only just enough* for the wearer to be able 
to move freely. This seems to have happened rather fortuitiously when I 
tried on my latest corset (a Margo's Patterns corset) which creates too 
much overflow if I "hoist properly" -- it created a nice swell upon 
tightening the laces without the "Ugly Duchess" chest-and-breast wrinkles. 
Hmm. Maybe that *is* the hang of it (pardon the expression).



Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum - observations
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Cassandra Greer wrote:

> I do not disagree that there is an 'acceptable range' but I hypothesize that
> there is also a desirable target - this was also most likely subconscious in
> the society of the time. So far (in my 36 hours of thinking about this) I
> think it has not been noticed in modern times either - unless some of you
> more well-read researchers out there can point me in the direction of
> literature on the topic

No, I don't think anything has been written about the optimal neckline 
level in the 16th century--maybe you should write an article!  Perhaps 
it would help convince cleavage-addicted people to cover up a bit more. 
  (I'm speaking mainly of those whose breasts cast a shadow on the 
outside of their bodice...)

regarding
>>Ann Cresacre
>>http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Anne%20Cresacre.jpg

> Mmm I am not in agreement with the calculations of these proportions. Just
> by taking a ruler and placing it on my monitor: From her eyebrow (arch - on
> her left) vertically to the plane of her chin, I measure 3.1 cm. If I
> measure from the top of the bodice (the line between the chemise and the
> line below), 3.1 cm goes quite a bit further than the base of her neck.

We're measuring from different places.  I'm measuring to the black line 
that marks the edge of her outer gown.  But I think we basically agree, 
though we probably differ in our thoughts about what the "ideal" was. 
While you're thinking about what to put in your article, you might 
consider doing a broad survey of Tudor and comparing it with a broad 
survey of Elizabethan.  It looks to me like the Tudors favored a 
slightly lower neckline than the Elizabethans in general.  There also 
might be regional differences.  We haven't even talked about the Italians...

> I don't know about what J. Arnold says yet - the books are coming!

You will love them!

Melanie Schuessler
http://www.faucet.net/costume

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Subject: [h-cost] 
	Fake pearls, was:  For people who thought my partlet was a lot of
	work :-)
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> I am not sure when they started to make fake pearls.
> You can make fake pearls by grinding mother of pearl and glue it unto
> glass balls ore something. Maby I can find it in one of my books...

Fake pearls were quite common in the 16th C. They were made as early 
as c1260 because there is a statute in Paris forbidding their use. 
(As opposed to using fresh water, aka "Scottish" pearls instead of 
the salt water "Oriental" pearls, which got separate mention in terms 
of statutes.) (See Lightbown, _Mediaeval European Jewellery_).

A 15th C Italian recipe for pearls (also from Lightbown) states that 
they use powdered crystal glass mixed with white of egg and snail 
slime as the foundation of the pearl. "After stirring it into a 
paste, press it into a round shape in moulds. The pearls so formed 
are pierced with a hog's bristle, baked in a vessel until they are 
white hot, and then cooled with clear water 'and they will be most 
beautiful'."

A 1652 method for making them (from Scarisbrick, _Jewellery in 
Britain 1066-1837__ ) quote from Thomas Nicols: There are factitious 
jewels made of double glasse which being set in gold, jewellers 
cannot discern from Pearl, except that they take them out. Some will 
adulterate them with the powder of the shell of Margarite; and others 
with chalk covered over with leaves of silver, and then anointed with 
the white of an egg. Some adulterate them with the powder of 
Margarites, mixt with the white of an egge, and dried, and then 
polished, but these will easily be discovered from the true by the 
weight and colour."

The mother of pearl method you mention is probably like the "shell of 
Margarite."

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Status: RO

Thank you!
It was in germany at castle Burgau near Duren.

I love your robe a la francaise!
What kind of silk did you use?
It looks a lot like the fabric in a painting of Maria di Cosimo wich I 
would like to recreate
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Bluedress/Bluedress.html

Greetings,
        Deredere


>Hi Deredere,
>Lovely pictures, you looked great, and congratulations with the avard!
>Where did this take place? It looks so good, is it Norwegian?
>Please forgive me my ignorance, i have no idea where it was, but it looks
>soo great!
>
>Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>
>  
>



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>(now I have not sprung for the $40+
>bras, so I don't know how they would work)

The bras that have non-stretch cups and straps work much better than the
usual bra, simply because they don't bounce and sag with every step.  I've
got a couple "posture bras" that are actually better than the usual sports
bra, simply because very little of the bra is made of stretch material. And
it has a full back, rather like a tank top which has wide criss-cross straps
sewn down onto it.  This keeps the straps from biting into your shoulder
blades.  Let me see if I can find a photo anywhere...
Here we go:
http://www.justmysize.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=6002&prmenbr=2701&cgrfnbr=1602958233&V=B
And a longline version:
http://www.justmysize.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=11453&prmenbr=2701&cgrfnbr=1602958233&V=B

Now, if only these were made in cotton or coolmax rather than polyester.  My
bras have cotton lining, but that does just about nothing in hot weather...

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Subject: [h-cost] Margo's website doesn't like me
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Sorry to use the bandwidth, but I have a question for Margo Anderson. I 
was trying to access your website <www.margospatterns.com> and I got a 
message that said "Forbidden. You don't have permission to access / on 
this server." What's up? Did the URL change? Thanks for any help!

Back to lurking...
Vicki

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Hi Deredere
That is a beautifull portrait.
Well the taffeta i baught in England. James Hare is the company, they have a
large range of collours to choose from in silk taffeta.
If you would like to have a scan of their colour chart, i would gladly help
you. They take online orders.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Deredere Galbraith" <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2003 10:27 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Back from vakation


> Thank you!
> It was in germany at castle Burgau near Duren.
>
> I love your robe a la francaise!
> What kind of silk did you use?
> It looks a lot like the fabric in a painting of Maria di Cosimo wich I
> would like to recreate
> http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Bluedress/Bluedress.html
>
> Greetings,
>         Deredere
>
>
> >Hi Deredere,
> >Lovely pictures, you looked great, and congratulations with the avard!
> >Where did this take place? It looks so good, is it Norwegian?
> >Please forgive me my ignorance, i have no idea where it was, but it looks
> >soo great!
> >
> >Bjarne
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >Leif og Bjarne Drews
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Modern fabric question
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  My roommate found some attractive oriental-esque brocade at far too
reasonable a price to pass up.  The drawback is that it is (shudder)
polyester.  It is much heavier than the polyester sold as 'slipper' or
'bridal' satin.  Now that it is washed, it is too wrinkly to cut into,
and she is afraid that the wrinkles won't iron out without lots of help. 
She was wondering if you can starch this kind of fabric.  Because all my
starching experience involves high heat and natural fibers, I didn't know
what to tell her, and thought someone on the list might have played with
something like this for SF/fantasy costumes.

  Thanks for the help!

  Elizabeth

  (PS.  It is *very* handsome, and she wants to make the Folkwear
Patterns' quilted Turkish coat out of it, but will need to have very flat
fabric to get the pattern pieces nicely shaped.)

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jul  3 17:40:24 2003
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: corset too low
Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2003 17:38:55 -0400
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I sympathise.
I can NOT, EVER, buy strapless bodices or shapers, they're always at least
one inch too long in the waist. It's easy enough to figure out: put them on,
and bend forward. If it lays flat, it's fine. If it buckles, it's too long.
One of the things I like about being able to sew is that I can remove one
inch in length from every single pattern I make before I cut my fabric.
I did that with my corset, and it's perfect. I can bend, twist, no problem
at all.
Most people are not aware how much waist length affects the right fit of a
piece of clothing.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gail & Scott Finke" <gailscott@eos.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2003 1:15 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: corset too low


>
> This is slightly off-topic but I thought you might enjoy this funny modern
> example of a corset being too low around the hips.
>
> I was in a wedding last year and I had to wear a strapless dress. The
> strapless shapers I tried on at modern department stores were laughable,
and
> I am only a size 10. They fell right off. I went to a bridal store and the
> lady said I needed a "Goddess" shaper, which I take it is specially made
for
> full-figured women, a description of myself that I find hilarious. Anyway,
I
> tried it on and it was fantastic! I could have jumped on a trampoline in
> that thing without going anywhere.
>
> BUT -- I have a short waist. This was the most comfortable undergarment
I've
> ever worn, until we sat down to dinner (we changed at the site). After
about
> 20 minutes I felt a stabbing pain under my left breast -- the steel bone
had
> been pushed up by my hips and had finally bent inwards! No, I wasn't
really
> stabbed -- but it was horribly uncomfortable for the rest of the day. The
> shaper is made do go over the hips and give you some tummy control, but
it's
> about an inch too long.
>
> Oh well, I guess for something like that to really fit I'd have to have it
> custom made. And maybe it would actually be worth the price for the
comfort.
> I would definitely have it end at around my natural (high) waist. The
dress,
> which was altered, didn't look right to me either -- I guess I'm too used
to
> fitting costumes and seeing fitted gowns to be satisfied with an altered
> off-the-shelf bridesmaid dress, even if it did cost $200!
>
> Gail Finke
>
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jul  3 17:52:57 2003
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Washing linen
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> Was wondering if anyone else had heard of this method for softening
> linen: wash it in Dawn.  I have a bunch of linen to prewash and this was
> recommended to me.  Anyone else try it?

Dawn being a fabric softener, I'd think it would soften any fabric. In my
experience, linen will soften as you wash it, no matter what you use.

> I have also been told that if you pre-soak a new swimsuit in a weak
> vineagar solution it will hold up a lot longer to the chlorine from the
> pool.  Again, anyone have experience with this?

I think I remember from my chemistry classes that chlorine is a strong base.
Soaking your swimsuit in weak vinegar (which is acidic) would neutralise the
chlorine and keep it from attacking the swimsuit material. However, I don't
think pre-soaking it would help, since acids and bases are washed away
easily with plain water (I could be wrong, though). But I'd tend to believe
that adding some vinegar to the rinse water would help making it hold up
longer.
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I just checked and apparently I don't have permission ot view the site
either1 Who knew?!

Karen


On Thu, 03 Jul 2003 17:16:59 -0400 Vicki Lamb <vlamb@cds.duke.edu>
writes:
> Sorry to use the bandwidth, but I have a question for Margo Anderson. 
> I was trying to access your website <www.margospatterns.com> and I got 
> a message that said "Forbidden. You don't have permission to access / 
> on this server." What's up? Did the URL change? Thanks for any help!
> 
> Back to lurking...
> Vicki
> 
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> 

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Me neither :((

Mel

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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Italian portraits 1550-1570
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While I'm distracted from my work anyway, I thought I would share with 
you all a book that I just got.  It's an exhibition catalog from the 
Kimbell Art Museum in Fort Worth, Texas, entitled "Giovanni Battista 
Moroni:  Renaissance Portraitist."  It's only 80 pages long, but it has 
over 30 different portraits (not all by him), some in color.  Many of 
them I've never seen before, and most of them are 1550-1570.  The 
majority are of men, but there are several nice ones of women and a few 
children as well.

I hunted this down because I was trying to find a better copy of the 
delectable portrait of Isotta Brembati, which you can see here
http://www.skiff.tcu.edu/SkiffWeb032400/Special.html
though that pic makes her dress look black and it's actually green.

You can get this from the Museum gift shop.  Go to
http://www.kimbellart.org/index.cfm
and click on online shopping, then catalogues.

[standard disclaimer--just a happy costumer, drooling on her new book]

Melanie Schuessler
http://www.faucet.net/costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Italian portraits 1550-1570
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> While I'm distracted from my work anyway, I thought I would share with
> you all a book that I just got.  It's an exhibition catalog from the
> Kimbell Art Museum in Fort Worth, Texas, entitled "Giovanni Battista
> Moroni:  Renaissance Portraitist."  It's only 80 pages long, but it has
> over 30 different portraits (not all by him), some in color.  Many of
> them I've never seen before, and most of them are 1550-1570.  The
> majority are of men, but there are several nice ones of women and a few
> children as well.

THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!!

I have liked Moroni's stuff for years and have *never* found a good
catalog of his portraits.  And this one is in color for less than $30. 
Yipee!!

<doing the happy dance>

Diana


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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Modern fabric question
Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2003 16:25:47 -0700
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Have you tried ironing it with a Teflon press cloth?  Even a damp cloth
with steam might be okay.  Do you have enough to fiddle with a little of
it?
___________

  My roommate found some attractive oriental-esque brocade at far too
reasonable a price to pass up.  The drawback is that it is (shudder)
polyester.  It is much heavier than the polyester sold as 'slipper' or
'bridal' satin.  Now that it is washed, it is too wrinkly to cut into,
and she is afraid that the wrinkles won't iron out without lots of help.

She was wondering if you can starch this kind of fabric.  Because all my
starching experience involves high heat and natural fibers, I didn't
know
what to tell her, and thought someone on the list might have played with
something like this for SF/fantasy costumes.

  Thanks for the help!

  Elizabeth

  (PS.  It is *very* handsome, and she wants to make the Folkwear
Patterns' quilted Turkish coat out of it, but will need to have very
flat
fabric to get the pattern pieces nicely shaped.)

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jul  3 19:34:43 2003
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Subject: [h-cost] New Book -Painting and the Market in Early Modern Antwerp
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Argh!  I am getting itchy fingers on this one!!  Especially since the
cover painting is one I have not seen before!  Thought you all might be
interested!

 

http://www.yale.edu/yup/images/0300072392.jpg

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Washing linen
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At 5:45 PM -0400 7/3/03, Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:
>  > Was wondering if anyone else had heard of this method for softening
>>  linen: wash it in Dawn.  I have a bunch of linen to prewash and this was
>>  recommended to me.  Anyone else try it?
>
>Dawn being a fabric softener, I'd think it would soften any fabric. In my
>experience, linen will soften as you wash it, no matter what you use.

Time to repeat this tip: I haven't had a chance to try this, but a 
friend's mom says that the quickest way to soften scratchy cotton or 
linen is to wet it thoroughly, then freeze it. Then take it out, and 
work the fabric while it's still partly frozen: roll, twist, rub, 
thump, et cetera. Wash and dry it again and it should come out quite 
a bit softer. I have some very inexpensive, but unfortunately rather 
scratchy, linen that I want to try this on, but there's never any 
room in my home freezer....

>  > I have also been told that if you pre-soak a new swimsuit in a weak
>>  vineagar solution it will hold up a lot longer to the chlorine from the
>>  pool.  Again, anyone have experience with this?
>
>I think I remember from my chemistry classes that chlorine is a strong base.
>Soaking your swimsuit in weak vinegar (which is acidic) would neutralise the
>chlorine and keep it from attacking the swimsuit material. However, I don't
>think pre-soaking it would help, since acids and bases are washed away
>easily with plain water (I could be wrong, though). But I'd tend to believe
>that adding some vinegar to the rinse water would help making it hold up
>longer.

This sounds to me like the myth about vinegar "setting" colors 
popping up again. The short version of the explanation is that 
vinegar _might_ have been helpful in the original dyeing of the 
fabric, but doesn't do anything useful once the fabric is finished.

Also, the reason swimsuits become discolored is not that the color is 
being "bled" out of them but that the color is being _bleached_, 
which is a different process. As far as I know, none of the remedies 
against colors _running_ offer any protection against _bleaching_.
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Italian portraits 1550-1570
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Wow, so you never did say; did you get the better picture you were
looking for?  What an unusual portrait.  Very cool, thanks for sharing!


[standard disclaimer--just a happy costumer, drooling on her new book]

Melanie Schuessler
http://www.faucet.net/costume

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: mostly about bras now Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset
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  > Frankly, a Tudor or Elizabethan corset is better for breast health
> than a bra, especially an underwire bra. There have been studies 
> recently showing that modern bras tend to cut off the lymph flow from 
> the breasts so that they are not "cleansed" the way they should be. 
> It's been postulated that this is contributing to the rise in breast 
> cancer. (I'd give you the references, but since they weren't 
> pediatric related, I didn't keep them after I read them in the 
> journals.)

"(just as Sydney Ross Singer's 1995 book Dressed to Kill theorized that 
the wearing of tight-fitting bras leads to a concentration of 
carcinogenic compounds in the breasts and lymphatic system). However, as 
Thomas Henry Huxley once wrote, the "great tragedy of science" is "a 
beautiful hypothesis slain by an ugly fact." In this case it's both ugly 
facts and a lack of attractive ones that drive a stake through the heart 
of the hypothesis offered above. "
 From Snopes.com

http://www.maurer-foundation.org/faq.asp
Underwire bras causing cancer is a myth

http://www.royalmarsden.org/patientinfo/booklets/breast_care/care_support.asp
"Underwire bras
Be particularly careful to choose an underwire bra which fits correctly. 
A badly fitting underwire bra can cause pain and discomfort if the wires 
dig into the upper part of the breast.
More expensive underwire bras tend to have softer, more flexible wires.
Don't wear an underwire bra if you're pregnant or have recently had a 
mastectomy. "

http://www.intelihealth.com/IH/ihtIH/WSIHW000/8293/24783.html
the problems with ill fitting bras does not mention lymph problems.

http://www.breastimplants4you.com/underwire_bra.htm
yes it's about implants but
"Underwire bras do NOT cause cancer from constant friction or pressure 
on the glands or lymph nodes of or around the breast -- that is a myth. 
  There is absolutely NO scientific study which has determined that an 
underwire bras has ever been the direct cause of breast cancer.  Nor do 
patient groups who wear underwire bras have an increased rate of cancer 
or benign tumors.  This rumor was allegedly spread by Internet Email and 
had reasoned that lymph flow obstruction was the chief cause of an 
increased risk of cancer.  This is simply not so."

http://chetday.com/breastcancerandbras.htm
And again.. it seems to be only the Singer's work that is mentioned. Not 
really conclusive evidence.

http://www.intelihealth.com/IH/ihtIH/WSIHW000/24684/29488/345629.html?d=dmtContent
"Poor positioning; missed feedings; irregular nursing patterns; 
engorgement; poor milk drainage from breast; external pressure on the 
breast (e.g., underwire bra, tight bra, clothing)" For a Plugged Duct. 
Which can be massaged away.

http://svc009.bne011i.server-web.com/INETUCRIDGUEST_1048205931_25376_13561/catalogue/db_bodywise/lymphatic.htm
While it's promoting their bra, it does talk about properly fitted bras...

http://www.gh.vic.gov.au/periop/breast/breastcan.htm
Straight after surgery you shouldn't wear an underwire, but you can 
after 4 weeks.

http://www.bmc.med.utoronto.ca/breastmatters/overview_myths.html
It is a myth...that wearing an underwire bra is a risk factor for 
developing breast cancer. Bras have never been shown to cause breast cancer.
Source: Canadian Cancer Society

http://www.cancer.org/docroot/MED/content/MED_6_1x_Underwire_Bras.asp?sitearea=MED
" Two anthropologists made this association in a book called Dressed to 
Kill. Their study was not conducted according to standard principles of 
epidemiological research and did not take into consideration other 
variables, including known risk factors for breast cancer. "
(just like the recent "study" that links milk to type two diabetes.. not 
taking into account all the lifestyle choices that are prevalent in the 
same societies that are known to contribute to type 2 diabetes.)

http://www.clevelandclinic.org/health/health-info/docs/1800/1896.asp?index=8353
OK, finally a real link, but it's listed *well* after nutrition, 
excercise and avoiding infections...
"Secondary lymphedema can develop from an infection, malignancy, 
surgery, scar tissue formation, trauma, deep vein thrombosis, radiation 
or other cancer treatment."
So it's not a specific cause but if you are at risk of Lymphedema then 
it might be a problem.
"Avoid tight clothing, shoes or jewelry. Women should wear well-fitted 
bras; bra straps should not be too tight, avoid underwire styles, and 
wear pads under the bra straps if necessary. Wear comfortable, 
closed-toe shoes and avoid tight hosiery. Wear watches or jewelry 
loosely, if at all, on the affected arm (surgical side)."


It's really about proper fit. And you need a proper fit with a corset 
too. And of course if you have trauma the last thing you want is a piece 
of metal, padded or not in any shape pushing into the region.
Boning too really....


> An Elizabethan or Tudor corset should not be uncomfortable. It should 
> support you properly. If it's not properly constructed, it will hurt 
> like the dickens. Also, if it is not boned properly it will also 
> hurt. 

Which is exactly my point. I was replying to an email that said how 
uncomfortable it was. I was explaining my discomfort was probably 
through it being to loose at the top, and that discomfort is not 
necessarily a good thing.

Seems people have been only reading bits of my email.. sigh... several 
responses along this line you see.

>>Surely what's needed is essentially a pull directly in, rather than a
>>pull down feeling? If you pull down the bust becomes much lower. And
>>while no the women didn't have bosoms up around their ears, neither
>>did they appear to be pushed down.
> Exactly. If you look at the portraits, the women don't look like 
> they've moved their "girls" into odd positions (either up or down). 
> They're gently held in place.

Yep again I was responding to another email, but I think it mayhave been 
a misunderstanding of the wording, because it sounded like they were 
advocating a push down.. but I think it may have been one of those 
miscommunication things. I think she meant push in and support as 
opposed to hitching up;)


michaela
http://glittersweet.com


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Saragrace T. Knauf wrote:
> Wow, so you never did say; did you get the better picture you were
> looking for?  What an unusual portrait.  Very cool, thanks for sharing!

Oh yes.  There's detail of it facing the title page, and a full version 
in the catalogue in the back, both in color.  Her gown is a beautiful 
deep green.  There's also a scrumptious glowing red satin one with a 
red-cloth-of-gold kirtle underneath that's trying to seduce me into 
reproducing it.

dch@inreach.com wrote:
 > THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!!
 >
 > I have liked Moroni's stuff for years and have *never* found a good
 > catalog of his portraits.  And this one is in color for less than $30.
 > Yipee!!

You're most welcome.  I _love_ finding books full of 16th-century 
portraits that are both inexpensive and still in print!  And if lots of 
people buy them and help to support the museum, that's even better.

Melanie Schuessler
http://www.faucet.net/costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Margo's website doesn't like me
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>  > I just checked and apparently I don't have permission ot view the site
> >  either1 Who knew?!
> 

Funny, I just clicked the bookmark and it came up.  That was around 9 PM 
Central Daylight Time.  Now, it tried to automatically route me to a 
high-resolution with-frames version -- maybe it was down for upgrading?

Leah
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ROTFLMAO!
--sue (who does just that, as she had a *good* set of girls)

Kirrily Robert wrote:
> 
> TOAP is "tits on a platter".
> 
> K.
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Oh. Gawd.  Deredere, you're a *horrible* temptress! <g>
I must have that dress.....
(Lessee...if I start now, it would take me...hmmm....)
--sue

Deredere Galbraith wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I found this picture.
> Recreating this dress would take lots of pearls.
> http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Pearldress/Pearldress.html
> I would be to affraid that I will loose many pearls by wearing it
> 
> Greetings,
>         Deredere
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 03 Jul 2003 20:31:11 -0600
From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] For people who thought my partlet was a lot of work:-)
References: <3F0455CF.9030805@kabelfoon.nl>
	<000c01c34193$f89295e0$210110ac@TEENALAPTOP>
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There's something in one of my costuming books about fake pearls in the
16th c.  IIRC, the exterior coating can be done with ground-up fish
scales.
--sue

Deredere Galbraith wrote:
> 
> I am not sure when they started to make fake pearls.
> You can make fake pearls by grinding mother of pearl and glue it unto
> glass balls ore something.
> Maby I can find it in one of my books...
> 
> Greetings,
>         Deredere
> 
> Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> 
> >Hi.
> >Yes, this has made me wonder many times, it seems to be an impossible thing,
> >if those pearls are real.
> >Could they have used some fake pearls somehow?
> >Made of ?
> >
> >Bjarne
> >
> >
> >Leif og Bjarne Drews
> >www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> >
> >http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Beteena Paradise" <bkessinger@ureach.com>
> >To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> >Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2003 8:50 PM
> >Subject: Re: [h-cost] For people who thought my partlet was a lot of work
> >:-)
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>And I would bet it would be extremely heavy.... lovely, but heavy.
> >>
> >>----- Original Message -----
> >>From: "Deredere Galbraith" <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
> >>To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> >>Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2003 12:11 PM
> >>Subject: [h-cost] For people who thought my partlet was a lot of work :-)
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>Hi,
> >>>
> >>>I found this picture.
> >>>Recreating this dress would take lots of pearls.
> >>>http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Pearldress/Pearldress.html
> >>>I would be to affraid that I will loose many pearls by wearing it
> >>>
> >>>Greetings,
> >>>        Deredere
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>_______________________________________________
> >>>h-costume mailing list
> >>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>_______________________________________________
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> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
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> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >
> >
> 
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Betcha' that smells yummy....:)  What delightful things we are
discussing today; boobage and fish scales...poor Bjarne..I didn't know
the lingo either and I am a girl!
_______________
There's something in one of my costuming books about fake pearls in the
16th c.  IIRC, the exterior coating can be done with ground-up fish
scales.
--sue



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Subject: Re: mostly about bras now Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset
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>>> Surely what's needed is essentially a pull directly in, rather than a
>>> pull down feeling? If you pull down the bust becomes much lower. And
>>> while no the women didn't have bosoms up around their ears, neither
>>> did they appear to be pushed down.
>> Exactly. If you look at the portraits, the women don't look like 
>> they've moved their "girls" into odd positions (either up or down). 
>> They're gently held in place.
>
> Yep again I was responding to another email, but I think it mayhave 
> been a misunderstanding of the wording, because it sounded like they 
> were advocating a push down.. but I think it may have been one of 
> those miscommunication things. I think she meant push in and support 
> as opposed to hitching up;)

Michaela,  I was one of the ones you responded to and that's exactly 
what I meant.  I know I didn't exactly describe the "push in" rather 
than "up", but that's what I was getting at.  It's a different method 
than what I'm used to, having been reared in the ways of "grab and 
hoist" maneuvers from my days in Ren Faire, but I think it's the more 
accurate one for all of the reasons discussed before.

And thanks for providing the debunking links to the old "underwire 
causes cancer" myth.  I love snopes!  ;)

Sarah

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Subject: [h-cost] Another very cool site for artifacts
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http://www.cotswold.gov.uk/museum/Collections.asp

 

 

I came across this last night while looking for extant dress hooks.
There are a bunch under Post Medieval, but there is so much other cool
stuff too!

 

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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum -  observations
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> I've always felt uncomfortable with corsets that don't try to cover the
> entire areole: too much chance of "overflow" during the day. (Forget about
> "ToaP", these are more like T *overflowing* the P.) Add to this that I've
> lost rather a bit of weight this past year, and the ladies are more flesh
> than fat. Right now, "hoisting" tends to create the "Ugly Duchess" effect.

Hm...maybe why wearing one's partlet closed was a sign of a married (i.e.,
older and more mature) woman in the later 16th c...

Drea

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Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2003 23:24:26 -0400 (EDT)
From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] For people who thought my partlet was a lot of work:-)
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I've come across several recipes for fake pearles in the 16th century, all
entertaining.  One starts with a wooden bead, dipped in glue, covered in
silver leaf and then dipped in glue. Another has beads made of ground up
snail shells mixed with glue, which are then dipped in mercury and other
fun substances.  There was quite an industry in fake pearls at the time,
apparently...

Drea


On Thu, 3 Jul 2003, Sue Clemenger wrote:

> There's something in one of my costuming books about fake pearls in the
> 16th c.  IIRC, the exterior coating can be done with ground-up fish
> scales.
> --sue
>
> Deredere Galbraith wrote:
> >
> > I am not sure when they started to make fake pearls.
> > You can make fake pearls by grinding mother of pearl and glue it unto
> > glass balls ore something.
> > Maby I can find it in one of my books...
> >
> > Greetings,
> >         Deredere
> >
> > Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> >
> > >Hi.
> > >Yes, this has made me wonder many times, it seems to be an impossible thing,
> > >if those pearls are real.
> > >Could they have used some fake pearls somehow?
> > >Made of ?
> > >
> > >Bjarne
> > >
> > >
> > >Leif og Bjarne Drews
> > >www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> > >
> > >http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: "Beteena Paradise" <bkessinger@ureach.com>
> > >To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > >Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2003 8:50 PM
> > >Subject: Re: [h-cost] For people who thought my partlet was a lot of work
> > >:-)
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >>And I would bet it would be extremely heavy.... lovely, but heavy.
> > >>
> > >>----- Original Message -----
> > >>From: "Deredere Galbraith" <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
> > >>To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > >>Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2003 12:11 PM
> > >>Subject: [h-cost] For people who thought my partlet was a lot of work :-)
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>Hi,
> > >>>
> > >>>I found this picture.
> > >>>Recreating this dress would take lots of pearls.
> > >>>http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Pearldress/Pearldress.html
> > >>>I would be to affraid that I will loose many pearls by wearing it
> > >>>
> > >>>Greetings,
> > >>>        Deredere
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>_______________________________________________
> > >>>h-costume mailing list
> > >>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > >>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>_______________________________________________
> > >>h-costume mailing list
> > >>h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > >>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > >_______________________________________________
> > >h-costume mailing list
> > >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum -  observations
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In a message dated 7/3/2003 10:22:31 PM Central Standard Time, 
drea@nospam writes:

> >I've always felt uncomfortable with corsets that don't try to cover the
> >entire areole: too much chance of "overflow" during the day. (Forget about
> >"ToaP", these are more like T *overflowing* the P.) Add to this that I've
> >lost rather a bit of weight this past year, and the ladies are more flesh
> >than fat. Right now, "hoisting" tends to create the "Ugly Duchess" effect.
> 
> Hm...maybe why wearing one's partlet closed was a sign of a married (i.e.,
> older and more mature) woman in the later 16th c...
> 

True Dat. It's why I be lovin' the partlets and the higher bodices. 

-Sarra Wryght
Elizabethan Dress Journals: http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/index.html
Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
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> Hm...maybe why wearing one's partlet closed was a sign of a married (i.e.,
> older and more mature) woman in the later 16th c...

I thought that was a myth?... Or, in any case, an overgeneralization... Has
someone got more info on this?
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum -  observations
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While I can't claim to have made an exhaustive study of the issue, I have
been looking carefully at period portraits to see if any pattern
indicating this was common practice can be found. As far as I can tell,
there's no evidence in portraits that this practice existed. The only
reference that I'm aware of which mentions it is a letter from a foreign
ambassador describing customs of the English Court during the reign of
Elizabeth. As such, it's accuracy can be called into question. And if it
was common practice that married ladies covered their chests, how do we
explain all the married ladies in low, square cut bodices during the
reigns immediately preceding that of Good Queen Bess? At this point in
time, I'd put that 'open partlet=unmarried, closed partlet=married/older'
down as another costume myth.


Always eager to find differing sources!

Karen


On Thu, 3 Jul 2003 23:30:14 -0400 "Audrey Bergeron-Morin"
<audreybmorin2@hotmail.com> writes:
> > Hm...maybe why wearing one's partlet closed was a sign of a married 
> (i.e.,
> > older and more mature) woman in the later 16th c...
> 
> I thought that was a myth?... Or, in any case, an 
> overgeneralization... Has
> someone got more info on this?
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 

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Drea Leed wrote:

> Hm...maybe why wearing one's partlet closed was a sign of a married (i.e.,
> older and more mature) woman in the later 16th c...

I'm interested in seeing evidence for this--I've never even heard of it 
before, but I'm always wanting to learn more.  At the moment, I think 
I'm with Karen, as I can find portraits of Elizabeth with ruffs (and 
partlets) both open and closed as the fashion demanded, unmarried ladies 
with closed ruffs/partlets, and married ladies with open ruffs/partlets. 
   This is in a scan over several decades of the later 16th c., however, 
during which the fashion changed several times.  I think you'd have to 
pick a span of five years and look at everything you could find from 
that span.

Or maybe I'm not interpreting this correctly--by wearing the partlet 
closed do you mean simply without the triangular opening below the 
closed ruff, or do you mean a closed ruff as opposed to an open ruff?

(Immersed in doing the 16th-century portion of the costume history 
lesson plan, so I've got Elizabethan on the brain.  I mean, more than 
usual... :) )

Melanie Schuessler
http://www.faucet.net/costume

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I have no problems , the website showed up fine.
Hilsen fra
Britt Marie Halonen
Lulit Gahkkorluodda 8
9520 Kautokeino, Norway
bhalonen@trollnet.no
http://community.webshots.com/user/briha100
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Snail slime, was: Fake pearls
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> Date: Thu, 03 Jul 2003 13:10:12 -0700
> From: kat@grendal.rain.com
> Subject: [h-cost] 	Fake pearls, was:  For people who thought my
> 	partlet was a lot of	work :-)

<snippage>

> A 15th C Italian recipe for pearls (also from Lightbown) states
> that 
> they use powdered crystal glass mixed with white of egg and snail 
> slime as the foundation of the pearl. 

<snippage>

OK, is it just me?  Or does anyone else have visions of people
squeezing snails for their slime?  I mean, how in the world do you
collect snail slime?!?!?!?  Blech....  :-P

A thoroughly grossed out Mary


=====
"Right now I'm having amnesia and deja vu at the same time.  I think I've forgotten this before."     ~ Steven Wright
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Margo's website doesn't like me
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Yep it is working for me now !

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Date: Thu, 03 Jul 2003 23:05:54 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dawn Jacobson <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Washing linen
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At 05:45 PM 7/3/2003 -0400, you wrote:
> > Was wondering if anyone else had heard of this method for softening
> > linen: wash it in Dawn.  I have a bunch of linen to prewash and this was
> > recommended to me.  Anyone else try it?
>
>Dawn being a fabric softener, I'd think it would soften any fabric. In my
>experience, linen will soften as you wash it, no matter what you use.
>
><snip>

Correction: Dawn dishwashing liquid is not a fabric softener. It is, 
however, a terrific degreaser (it really "keeps grease away from your 
hands," as advertised), probably because it contains both anionic and 
nonanionic surfactants. As it removes "stuff," including whatever a mill 
adds to its fabric to finish it (sizing, starch, etc), using Dawn will give 
the impression of softening a fabric. You probably would get the same 
results from using a good laundry detergent (Tide, for example).

One non-dish use for Dawn is scouring fleece before spinning. It breaks 
through the lanolin and removes it from the fleece much more efficiently 
than Orvus or other scouring agents. I've used it for years, and will never 
go back to using Orvus (too much work!).

Dawn


Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are the costumes we wear every day. 
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HELP!

After two days of pure computer hell, once I was able to get my mail 
again, Netscape ate these digests. I got the subject but no message. 
Since I have been following with interest some of the discussions, would 
someone be so kind as to forward them to me?

Thank you!

Maura Folsom


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Date: Thu, 03 Jul 2003 23:11:39 -0700
From: Dawn Jacobson <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Book -Painting and the Market in Early Modern
	Antwerp
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At 04:32 PM 7/3/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>Argh!  I am getting itchy fingers on this one!!  Especially since the
>cover painting is one I have not seen before!  Thought you all might be
>interested!
>
>http://www.yale.edu/yup/images/0300072392.jpg

Drat! I just tried to order this, and the bookseller had it listed as 
available by mistake.

With a cover like that, I'm really going to have to try to find a copy 
(especially as I'm supposed to build an upper-middle-class Flemish woman's 
dress for myself in the next few months!).

Dawn


Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are the costumes we wear every day. 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Washing linen
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In a message dated 7/4/03 2:10:21 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
dme_maud@pacbell.net writes:

> Correction: Dawn dishwashing liquid is not a fabric softener. It is, 
> however, a terrific degreaser (it really "keeps grease away from your 
> hands," as advertised), probably because it contains both anionic and 
> nonanionic surfactants. As it removes "stuff," including whatever a mill 
> adds to its fabric to finish it (sizing, starch, etc), using Dawn will give 
> the impression of softening a fabric. You probably would get the same 
> results from using a good laundry detergent (Tide, for example).

Dawn is also really good for stains on anything vaguely washable by hand.  
Pre-treating with Dawn and letting it soak in warm water will generally get the 
stain out, or at least loosened.  
Y'know, Dawn, if I didn't know better, I'd say you were advertising yourself! 
 <g>

Christine
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Wow, there really isn't much out there about english working class 
(Elizabethan) in the way of period illustrations, eh? I've seen the Fete at B-something, 
the three London Gentlewomen (the fishmonger's wife) and a few others. I'm 
doing a couple of lower class outfits based on the girl in the blue bodice from 
the Fete at B-somethingsomething and I got a question for ya'll. Do english 
working class chicks of the 'bethan era wear their partlets outside their 
bodices? It's hard to tell in the Fete. And the fishmonger's wife is wearing that 
little shoulder cape thing. Would this be totally wrong? : shift -> kirtle 
(boned) ->partlet with a ruff (small but there, like the fishmonger's wife) inside 
-> outer dress (front laced through lacing rings but closed or nearly closed 
ala Fete girl -> black wool partlet outside gown ->apron. 

-Sarra Wryght
Elizabethan Dress Journals: http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/index.html
Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
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Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2003 08:35:15 +0100 (BST)
From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum -  observations
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 --- Audrey Bergeron-Morin <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com> wrote: > > Hm...maybe
why wearing one's partlet closed was a sign of a married (i.e.,
> > older and more mature) woman in the later 16th c...
> 
> I thought that was a myth?... Or, in any case, an overgeneralization... Has
> someone got more info on this?

If I may say so, while not knowing aything about this particular occurrence,
having indulged in Early Modern Women Studies as part of my research, I must
say that there is surprisingly LITTLE if any evidence for anything denoting
married or unmarried status in clothing.
Admittedly, I am looking at a period 50 - 100 years later, but this just as a
small hint that it may well be a myth.

Nicole

=====
Men Die. Cattle Die. Word-Fame Lives Forever.   ~ Old Norse Aphorism

Email: nicole@kipar.org
URL: http://www.kipar.org

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Date: Fri, 04 Jul 2003 03:29:15 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mn.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] *English* Working class
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At 03:34 AM 7/4/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>Wow, there really isn't much out there about english working class
>(Elizabethan) in the way of period illustrations, eh? I've seen the Fete 
>at B-something,
>the three London Gentlewomen (the fishmonger's wife) and a few others. I'm
>doing a couple of lower class outfits based on the girl in the blue bodice 
>from
>the Fete at B-somethingsomething and I got a question for ya'll. Do english
>working class chicks of the 'bethan era wear their partlets outside their
>bodices? It's hard to tell in the Fete. And the fishmonger's wife is 
>wearing that
>little shoulder cape thing. Would this be totally wrong? : shift -> kirtle
>(boned) ->partlet with a ruff (small but there, like the fishmonger's 
>wife) inside
>-> outer dress (front laced through lacing rings but closed or nearly closed
>ala Fete girl -> black wool partlet outside gown ->apron.
>
>-Sarra Wryght
>Elizabethan Dress Journals: http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/index.html
>Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/

Actually, I don't think they are partlets at all.  I've looked at over 800 
16th century English wills and inventories from the labouring and merchant 
classes and out of the approx 1500 clothing references there are only 7 
mentions of partlets - six of which were velvet and one was satin.  They 
were all in wills from the 1540s.  On the other hand, there are a great 
many references to shirts, smocks, and neckerchers.  So, what I think 
you're seeing in the Bermondsley and other images is the shirt or smock not 
a partlet in most cases.  Besides, with the neckerchers the two women are 
wearing in the image on your site, it strikes me as rather redundant to 
wear a partlet as well.  Oh and the one mention I had of ruffs and the few 
of shirt bands, they were listed separate from the shirts and smocks.

Cheers,
Danielle

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And in a completely non-costume related bit, Dawn liquid all does a
great job disbursing paint evenly.  Well, at least, Christmas tree
paint.  You may be thinking "???", but some species of evergreens used
for Christmas trees range naturally in color, some even yellowish, and
this can be counteracted, a while prior to harvest, by spraying them
with a special, thinned mixture of green paint, which helps act as a
sunscreen for the tree's needles.  My Dad always "boosted" it with some
Dawn.
How's that for completely odd trivia for your day? <g>
--sue, getting ready for 4th of July stuff......

IceGirlNIN@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 7/4/03 2:10:21 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> dme_maud@pacbell.net writes:
> 
> > Correction: Dawn dishwashing liquid is not a fabric softener. It is,
> > however, a terrific degreaser (it really "keeps grease away from your
> > hands," as advertised), probably because it contains both anionic and
> > nonanionic surfactants. As it removes "stuff," including whatever a mill
> > adds to its fabric to finish it (sizing, starch, etc), using Dawn will give
> > the impression of softening a fabric. You probably would get the same
> > results from using a good laundry detergent (Tide, for example).
> 
> Dawn is also really good for stains on anything vaguely washable by hand.
> Pre-treating with Dawn and letting it soak in warm water will generally get the
> stain out, or at least loosened.
> Y'know, Dawn, if I didn't know better, I'd say you were advertising yourself!
>  <g>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] *English* Working class
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Sarra wrote:
> Wow, there really isn't much out there about english working class 
> (Elizabethan) in the way of period illustrations, eh? I've seen the Fete at B-something, 
> the three London Gentlewomen (the fishmonger's wife) and a few others. I'm 
> doing a couple of lower class outfits based on the girl in the blue bodice from 
> the Fete at B-somethingsomething and I got a question for ya'll. Do english 
> working class chicks of the 'bethan era wear their partlets outside their 
> bodices? It's hard to tell in the Fete. And the fishmonger's wife is wearing that 
> little shoulder cape thing. Would this be totally wrong? : shift -> kirtle 
> (boned) ->partlet with a ruff (small but there, like the fishmonger's wife) inside 
> -> outer dress (front laced through lacing rings but closed or nearly closed 
> ala Fete girl -> black wool partlet outside gown ->apron. 

Without the whole Flemish genre painting thing, you have to go looking
outside of "real art" for English working class stuff.  Woodcuts are
your best bet, but tend to show men disproportionately.  A couple of
sources you might find useful are Ashelford's "Dress in the age of
Elizabeth I" which has a chapter on clothes for lower classes IIRC, and
the "Dress of the common Man/Woman" pamphlets from Stuart Press - Sykes
Sutlery carries them.  Full bibliographic info can be found hereish:
http://elizabethangeek.com/biblio/browse.mhtml?subject=28

Oh, and the rest of you can consider that to be an announcement of
sorts... http://elizabethangeek.com/biblio/ is a bibliography for all
things Elizabethan.  It's in progress at the moment, but I've entered
all my costuming books and most of my textiles stuff already, so it
might be of interest to some.  And it will of course continue to grow.

K.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Another very cool site for artifacts
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Great site!  Thanks for sharing.

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2003 06:18:52 -0400
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Modern fabric question
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        Polyester is difficult to press creases or to remove wrinkles. 
HOWEVER, if you spray the fabric with a mixture of water and white
vinegar (about a quarter of a cup vinegar to a pint of water, but it
isn't critical) and then press it should remove the wrinkles.  Or you can
dip a pressing cloth in the vinegar/water mixture and use that.  I gave
up messing with the spray and just use the mixture to fill my steam iron.
 Keeps the iron clean and presses anything.  The smell goes away almost
immediately when the fabric is cool.  Good Luck
Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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Date: Fri, 04 Jul 2003 17:31:18 +0200
From: Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Back from vakation
References: 
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Hi,

Thanks!
I would love to have a scan of there colour card and there adress.
Maby I can visit them some day.
But I won't need it for this dress. I went shopping for a birthday 
present for a friend today.
I didn't find her a present but found some lovely blue silk.....

http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Bluedress/Bluedress.html

Greetings,
        Deredere




Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

>Hi Deredere
>That is a beautifull portrait.
>Well the taffeta i baught in England. James Hare is the company, they have a
>large range of collours to choose from in silk taffeta.
>If you would like to have a scan of their colour chart, i would gladly help
>you. They take online orders.
>
>Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Deredere Galbraith" <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2003 10:27 PM
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Back from vakation
>
>
>  
>
>>Thank you!
>>It was in germany at castle Burgau near Duren.
>>
>>I love your robe a la francaise!
>>What kind of silk did you use?
>>It looks a lot like the fabric in a painting of Maria di Cosimo wich I
>>would like to recreate
>>http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Bluedress/Bluedress.html
>>
>>Greetings,
>>        Deredere
>>
>>
>>    
>>
>>>Hi Deredere,
>>>Lovely pictures, you looked great, and congratulations with the avard!
>>>Where did this take place? It looks so good, is it Norwegian?
>>>Please forgive me my ignorance, i have no idea where it was, but it looks
>>>soo great!
>>>
>>>Bjarne
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>      
>>>
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>    
>>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>  
>

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Jul  4 11:35:40 2003
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Ta ta!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
That is much better colour Deredere,
Congratus......................
Sometimes, luck is just right the corner

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Deredere Galbraith" <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2003 5:31 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Back from vakation


> Hi,
>
> Thanks!
> I would love to have a scan of there colour card and there adress.
> Maby I can visit them some day.
> But I won't need it for this dress. I went shopping for a birthday
> present for a friend today.
> I didn't find her a present but found some lovely blue silk.....
>
> http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Bluedress/Bluedress.html
>
> Greetings,
>         Deredere
>
>
>
>
> Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>
> >Hi Deredere
> >That is a beautifull portrait.
> >Well the taffeta i baught in England. James Hare is the company, they
have a
> >large range of collours to choose from in silk taffeta.
> >If you would like to have a scan of their colour chart, i would gladly
help
> >you. They take online orders.
> >
> >Bjarne
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >Leif og Bjarne Drews
> >www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> >
> >http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Deredere Galbraith" <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
> >To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> >Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2003 10:27 PM
> >Subject: Re: [h-cost] Back from vakation
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>Thank you!
> >>It was in germany at castle Burgau near Duren.
> >>
> >>I love your robe a la francaise!
> >>What kind of silk did you use?
> >>It looks a lot like the fabric in a painting of Maria di Cosimo wich I
> >>would like to recreate
> >>http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Bluedress/Bluedress.html
> >>
> >>Greetings,
> >>        Deredere
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>Hi Deredere,
> >>>Lovely pictures, you looked great, and congratulations with the avard!
> >>>Where did this take place? It looks so good, is it Norwegian?
> >>>Please forgive me my ignorance, i have no idea where it was, but it
looks
> >>>soo great!
> >>>
> >>>Bjarne
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>Leif og Bjarne Drews
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>_______________________________________________
> >>h-costume mailing list
> >>h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >h-costume mailing list
> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Jul  4 11:37:17 2003
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <E19Y6lQ-00085L-00@eggnog><E19Y8nD-0008DS-00@eggnog>
	<3F04E5F4.C07D02DF@in-tch.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Feelin' ignernt
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2003 17:36:04 +0200
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Now that makes sence.
Anyone wants to enlighten an ignorant male member?

Bjarne  





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2003 4:27 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Feelin' ignernt


> ROTFLMAO!
> --sue (who does just that, as she had a *good* set of girls)
> 
> Kirrily Robert wrote:
> > 
> > TOAP is "tits on a platter".
> > 
> > K.
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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> There's something in one of my costuming books about fake pearls in
> the 16th c.  IIRC, the exterior coating can be done with ground-up
> fish scales. --sue

Right. Isinglass. I have seen that too, but I couldn't find the 
citation when I went looking for info on fake pearls. (Didn't have 
time for a more exhaustive search.)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum -  observations
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> And if it was common practice that married ladies covered
> their chests, how do we explain all the married ladies in low, square
> cut bodices during the reigns immediately preceding that of Good Queen
> Bess? At this point in time, I'd put that 'open partlet=unmarried,
> closed partlet=married/older' down as another costume myth.

I agree. In looking at the portraits, it almost seems more likely 
that covered=unmarried and uncovered=married. Most of the really 
elaborate partlets seem to be on the young women. (And looking at EI 
doesn't count, since she considered herself "married" to her country 
and did several dress things which were more for married than 
unmarried women.)

Heaven only knows that they showed a lot more than that during James 
I/VI reign! (Which is why we have all those lovely repainted 
portraits which make it look like they had bustlines with nipples 
which were seated at waist level and all the woodcuts with strategic 
scratch marks where uncovered nipples would be.)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Feelin' ignernt
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At 5:36 PM +0200 7/4/03, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Friday, July 04, 2003 4:27 AM
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Feelin' ignernt
>
>
>>  ROTFLMAO!
>>  --sue (who does just that, as she had a *good* set of girls)
>>
>>  Kirrily Robert wrote:
>>  >
>  > > TOAP is "tits on a platter".

>Now that makes sence.
>Anyone wants to enlighten an ignorant male member?
>
>Bjarne

<giggle> Well, with all the talk about breasts, I suppose we can talk 
about "male members" too!  (English slang note to Bjarne: "male 
member" is sometimes used in trashy romance novels as a euphemism for 
penis.)

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Feelin' ignernt
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I totally missed that, am i stupid or something!

Bjarne

I give up!!







Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Heather Rose Jones" <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2003 7:19 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Feelin' ignernt


> At 5:36 PM +0200 7/4/03, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> >http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
> >To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> >Sent: Friday, July 04, 2003 4:27 AM
> >Subject: Re: [h-cost] Feelin' ignernt
> >
> >
> >>  ROTFLMAO!
> >>  --sue (who does just that, as she had a *good* set of girls)
> >>
> >>  Kirrily Robert wrote:
> >>  >
> >  > > TOAP is "tits on a platter".
> 
> >Now that makes sence.
> >Anyone wants to enlighten an ignorant male member?
> >
> >Bjarne
> 
> <giggle> Well, with all the talk about breasts, I suppose we can talk 
> about "male members" too!  (English slang note to Bjarne: "male 
> member" is sometimes used in trashy romance novels as a euphemism for 
> penis.)
> 
> Heather
> -- 
> *****
> Heather Rose Jones
> hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
> *****
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Book -Painting and the Market in Early Modern
	Antwerp
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Could start here - if they're out of it, you could use the data for a 
ABE search...

http://www.yale.edu/yup/books/072392.htm

Edwinna
Information Junkie

Dawn Jacobson wrote:

> At 04:32 PM 7/3/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>
>> Argh!  I am getting itchy fingers on this one!!  Especially since the
>> cover painting is one I have not seen before!  Thought you all might be
>> interested!
>>
>> http://www.yale.edu/yup/images/0300072392.jpg
>
>
> Drat! I just tried to order this, and the bookseller had it listed as 
> available by mistake.
>
> With a cover like that, I'm really going to have to try to find a copy 
> (especially as I'm supposed to build an upper-middle-class Flemish 
> woman's dress for myself in the next few months!).
>
> Dawn
>
>
> Dawn Jacobson
> Vallejo, CA, USA
>
> Clothes are the costumes we wear every day. 
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Feelin' ignernt
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Ok, sorry, welll i am really slow today, just got home from work, long hours
and did not get my brains with me.
Ok, well that is interresting, never heard that before.
This is the same as: Bjarne is the same as Dick and Cock Robin Willie and so
further, comeon ladies, you know what i meen, well, no
further...................
But what has that to do with corsets and  tits on a platter?

:-)  :-)
All smiles here
Sorry ladies

Does size really matter?
I say yes!!!!


Bjarne


Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Heather Rose Jones" <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2003 7:19 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Feelin' ignernt


> At 5:36 PM +0200 7/4/03, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> >http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
> >To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> >Sent: Friday, July 04, 2003 4:27 AM
> >Subject: Re: [h-cost] Feelin' ignernt
> >
> >
> >>  ROTFLMAO!
> >>  --sue (who does just that, as she had a *good* set of girls)
> >>
> >>  Kirrily Robert wrote:
> >>  >
> >  > > TOAP is "tits on a platter".
>
> >Now that makes sence.
> >Anyone wants to enlighten an ignorant male member?
> >
> >Bjarne
>
> <giggle> Well, with all the talk about breasts, I suppose we can talk
> about "male members" too!  (English slang note to Bjarne: "male
> member" is sometimes used in trashy romance novels as a euphemism for
> penis.)
>
> Heather
> --
> *****
> Heather Rose Jones
> hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
> *****
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2003 14:21:42 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carol Kocian <aquazoo@patriot.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Feelin' ignernt
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      Ok, I'll give it a try!  We speak in euphamisms or use 
abbreviations for some things, but please be aware that we are many 
languages and cultures.  While it's funny to those who understand it, 
if we really want to share information we have to be more clear! :-)

      Some women wear corsets or stays that lift their breasts very 
high and they look like they're being presented on a platter.  Tits 
on a platter, or TOAP.

      Other discussion went on at the same time regarding the best way 
to position oneself to look the same as the portraits of the period.

      When you wrote "male member", we just kept on giggling.

      -Carol


>Ok, sorry, welll i am really slow today, just got home from work, long hours
>and did not get my brains with me.
>Ok, well that is interresting, never heard that before.
>This is the same as: Bjarne is the same as Dick and Cock Robin Willie and so
>further, comeon ladies, you know what i meen, well, no
>further...................
>But what has that to do with corsets and  tits on a platter?
>
>:-)  :-)
>All smiles here
>Sorry ladies
>
>Does size really matter?
>I say yes!!!!
>
>
>Bjarne
>
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Jul  4 14:25:36 2003
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Date: Fri, 04 Jul 2003 14:21:57 -0500
From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Book -Painting and the Market in Early Modern
	Antwerp
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Dawn Jacobson wrote:
> 
> Drat! I just tried to order this, and the bookseller had it listed as 
> available by mistake.
> 
> With a cover like that, I'm really going to have to try to find a copy 
> (especially as I'm supposed to build an upper-middle-class Flemish 
> woman's dress for myself in the next few months!).

Amazon.com has it, and there are a number of copies at addall.com

Happy Shopping,
Melanie Schuessler
http://www.faucet.net/costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] *English* Working class
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Danielle Nunn-Weinberg" <dannw@mn.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] *English* Working class


<snip>
>
> Actually, I don't think they are partlets at all.  I've looked at over 800
> 16th century English wills and inventories from the labouring and merchant
> classes and out of the approx 1500 clothing references there are only 7
> mentions of partlets - six of which were velvet and one was satin.  They
> were all in wills from the 1540s.  On the other hand, there are a great
> many references to shirts, smocks, and neckerchers.  So, what I think
> you're seeing in the Bermondsley and other images is the shirt or smock
not
> a partlet in most cases.  Besides, with the neckerchers the two women are
> wearing in the image on your site, it strikes me as rather redundant to
> wear a partlet as well.  Oh and the one mention I had of ruffs and the few
> of shirt bands, they were listed separate from the shirts and smocks.

Well this brings up an interesting question -- Danielle, maybe you can shed
some light!

I first started my Elizabethan costuming based on the Winter/Savoy book,
which as we all know cuts LOTS of corners.  So to me, a "partlet" was a
high-necked shift that was open down the center front.  The issue here is
that if one wants to wear one's "partlet" (in the above definition -- hence
the quotes) open, you basically have nothing between you and your corset or
bodice in front.

Once I discovered the whole partlet-as-a-garment-separate-from-the-shift, it
made sense to me.  You'd have your low-necked shift between you and your
corset/bodice, and then the partlet on top of that (which could be worn open
or closed).  The thing that puzzled me (and granted, I'm haven't read as
much as I should on this period) is that I know in the period of Mary I, a
partlet was an outer garment (meaning worn over the bodice).

So -- was there a change where partlets (separate from shifts) began to be
worn under the bodice?  Or is the whole partlet thing (in Elizabeth's era)
just a big costumer's myth?

- Kendra

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Feelin' ignernt
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>I totally missed that, am i stupid or something!
>
>Bjarne
>
>I give up!!


No no no no no -- of course you're not stupid!  It's the sort of 
thing that any non-native speaker could come up with in any language. 
I wouldn't even have mentioned it except that the thread was already 
... *ahem* ... a bit risque.

Heather


>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Heather Rose Jones" <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Friday, July 04, 2003 7:19 PM
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Feelin' ignernt
>
>
>>  At 5:36 PM +0200 7/4/03, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>>  >http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>>  >----- Original Message -----
>>  >From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
>>  >To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>>  >Sent: Friday, July 04, 2003 4:27 AM
>>  >Subject: Re: [h-cost] Feelin' ignernt
>>  >
>>  >
>>  >>  ROTFLMAO!
>>  >>  --sue (who does just that, as she had a *good* set of girls)
>>  >>
>>  >>  Kirrily Robert wrote:
>>  >>  >
>>  >  > > TOAP is "tits on a platter".
>>
>>  >Now that makes sence.
>>  >Anyone wants to enlighten an ignorant male member?
>>  >
>>  >Bjarne
>>
>>  <giggle> Well, with all the talk about breasts, I suppose we can talk
>>  about "male members" too!  (English slang note to Bjarne: "male
>>  member" is sometimes used in trashy romance novels as a euphemism for
>>  penis.)
>>
>>  Heather
>>  --
>>  *****
>>  Heather Rose Jones
>>  hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
>>  *****
>>  _______________________________________________
>>  h-costume mailing list
>>  h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>  http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Kirrily Robert wrote:

> "Dress of the common Man/Woman" pamphlets from Stuart Press - Sykes
> Sutlery carries them.  Full bibliographic info can be found hereish:
> http://elizabethangeek.com/biblio/browse.mhtml?subject=28

I've never seen those before--are they good?  They sound interesting. 
How much of the info is prior to 1600?

> Oh, and the rest of you can consider that to be an announcement of
> sorts... http://elizabethangeek.com/biblio/ is a bibliography for all
> things Elizabethan.

That's cool!  Thanks.

Melanie Schuessler
http://www.faucet.net/costume

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Back to reallity,

I am making a Caraco Jacket and Skirt for the lady i am escorting to Sweden.
I told you that before, but!!
I have leftover blue silk taffeta, enough for  3 widths of fabric and i
would like to make a jacket to match the skirt.
Well hmmm. i am not skilled in knowing so much about the fahion so i would
like to ask your oppinnion!!!!!!!!
I considered to make the Caraco jacket in Janet Arnolds book, but i  would
like to make some alterations'
I would like to make a jacket wich has a stomacher opening front and curved
waistline to the C:B And Cartridgepleated (little skirt) from the stomacher
to the CB.
Is this fashionable from 1770 and onwards?
Do any of you have any ideas of how i should make the sleaves? Should i make
some cuffs?
I plan to make the jacket in some grey damask and the skirt in leftover blue
taffeta. And i want to trim the bust with blue taffeta ribbon covered with
silver lace wich i have  made myself
Any advices?


Plan to make a little diary about this project next week

Bjarne

 Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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LOL!  I had to take a look in my "Adult" mail folder because it doesn't
usually fill up so fast.  Imagine my surprise when it was full of H-Cost
emails!  I was filtering out all those "Want the biggest "you know
what?"" emails.  Bjarne, you sure are a great sport!!



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Subject: [h-cost] FYI Margo's other website
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...is

http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

Her personal one.  Info, funnies and stuff.

LLWatts@aol.com wrote:

>> > I just checked and apparently I don't have permission ot view the site
>>    
>>
>>> either1 Who knew?!
>>>      
>>>
>
>Funny, I just clicked the bookmark and it came up.  That was around 9 PM 
>Central Daylight Time.  Now, it tried to automatically route me to a 
>high-resolution with-frames version -- maybe it was down for upgrading?
>
>Leah
>_______________________________________________
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>  
>

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I thought isenglass was another name for mica?

It's the commonly found sparkly mineral in an awful lot of rocks, and 
can sometimes be found in large slabs on its own.

Somewhat transparent on its own & refractory; it's been used in stoves 
and fireplaces for wiindows.

Ann in CT


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Hi Saragrace
Naughty me::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::..
Sorry
I really am a bad person.
I should go to bed now
A good story for you and the ladies would be!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

If you are not merried and you would like an endoved male person.
It goes for a merried person two!!!!!!!!!!!111111111
Give him a doubble Whiskey or Bourbon
Meassure his fingertips to his underarm
If he can take his longfinger down to the underarm
Then he has a long Bjarne!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!111

Time for Coffe!
Whopsadausi

You are surely right about the ..................

May i take up another poll?
In the sum,mertime?

Do you prefer cut or uncut?

DICK 





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2003 8:49 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Feelin' ignernt


> LOL!  I had to take a look in my "Adult" mail folder because it doesn't
> usually fill up so fast.  Imagine my surprise when it was full of H-Cost
> emails!  I was filtering out all those "Want the biggest "you know
> what?"" emails.  Bjarne, you sure are a great sport!!
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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I've found them to be very useful, though somewhat later in period than my
specialty (their main body of research evidence centers around the early
17th c., rather than the mid-to late 16th c.). Due to their method of
publication--copied pamphlets--and the lack of good copyright-free pics,
the illustrations are a bit scanty.  But the authors do reference
some delightfully obscure and unknown texts and manuscripts, and do a
great job (in my opinion) of laying out evidence for certain garment
trends without making overly broad assumptions.  Definitely worth adding
to your library.

Great bibliography site, btw!

Drea

On Fri, 4 Jul 2003, Melanie Schuessler wrote:

> Kirrily Robert wrote:
>
> > "Dress of the common Man/Woman" pamphlets from Stuart Press - Sykes
> > Sutlery carries them.  Full bibliographic info can be found hereish:
> > http://elizabethangeek.com/biblio/browse.mhtml?subject=28
i>
> I've never seen those before--are they good?  They sound interesting.
> How much of the info is prior to 1600?
>
> > Oh, and the rest of you can consider that to be an announcement of
> > sorts... http://elizabethangeek.com/biblio/ is a bibliography for all
> > things Elizabethan.
>
> That's cool!  Thanks.
>
> Melanie Schuessler
> http://www.faucet.net/costume
>
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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] *English* Working class
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> Wow, there really isn't much out there about english working class
> (Elizabethan) in the way of period illustrations, eh? I've seen the Fete at B-something,
> the three London Gentlewomen (the fishmonger's wife) and a few others. I'm
> doing a couple of lower class outfits based on the girl in the blue bodice from
> the Fete at B-somethingsomething and I got a question for ya'll. Do english
> working class chicks of the 'bethan era wear their partlets outside their
> bodices? It's hard to tell in the Fete. And the fishmonger's wife is wearing that

> little shoulder cape thing. Would this be totally wrong? : shift ->
kirtle
> (boned) ->partlet with a ruff (small but there, like the fishmonger's
wife) inside
> -> outer dress (front laced through lacing rings but closed or nearly
closed
> ala Fete girl -> black wool partlet outside gown ->apron.

I'd go with this analysis, too, but without the black outer partlet. Looks
like she's wearing a shoulder-cape cloth instead. The only questionable
item is the partlet; the ruff that's showing could be:

a) a ruffed partlet worn over the shift and kirtle and under the gown
b) the ruff of a high-bodied smock worn under the kirtle.
c) a ruffed partlet worn over the outer gown & under the shoulder cape.

All three are valid authentic ensembles of the time; but based upon other
pictures I've seen (Flemish, admittedly, but all that's really out there
on the subject), I'd choose the low-necked smock -> kirtle -> gown ->
ruffed partlet option as the most likely.

Good luck with your project,

Drea

>
> -Sarra Wryght
> Elizabethan Dress Journals: http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/index.html
> Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] *English* Working class
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> Once I discovered the whole partlet-as-a-garment-separate-from-the-shift, it
> made sense to me.  You'd have your low-necked shift between you and your
> corset/bodice, and then the partlet on top of that (which could be worn open
> or closed).  The thing that puzzled me (and granted, I'm haven't read as
> much as I should on this period) is that I know in the period of Mary I, a
> partlet was an outer garment (meaning worn over the bodice).
>
> So -- was there a change where partlets (separate from shifts) began to be
> worn under the bodice?  Or is the whole partlet thing (in Elizabeth's era)
> just a big costumer's myth?

That is the $10,000 question. Partlets worn outside the garment show up a)
in Tudor court pics of the 1530s-1550s, and b) in Flemish genre art
depicting lower class folk from the 1550s-1570s.

When it comes to partlets worn /under/ the other gowns...that's where the
fun begins, as there's really no tried-and-true way to tell if a woman's
wearing a separate partlet, or a shirt w/ sleeves.  Danielle's correct in
pointing out that there are precious few references to partlets in the
later 16th century.  I've been reading through Queen E's wardrobe accounts
for a while now, and out of 170 pages of listings, only one partlet has
shown up.  The other place I've seen partlets mentioned is in the effects
of a c. 1600 welsh servingwoman, where a "ruffed partlets" are mentioned a
few times.

Of course, there's been no mention of smocks in Elizabeth's wardrobe
accounts either, as they were made by her Chamberers.

So, either partlets weren't as widespread as the savoy & winter book says
they were...or else they were considered "underwear" like smocks & such,
which recieved precious little attention in wardrobe accounts of the time.

It's a fascinating topic, and I hope someone *cough*Danielle*cough* puts
together a definitive examination of it someday. ;)

Drea


> - Kendra
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum -  observations
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> > Hm...maybe why wearing one's partlet closed was a sign of a married (i.e.,
> > older and more mature) woman in the later 16th c...
>
> I'm interested in seeing evidence for this--I've never even heard of it
> before, but I'm always wanting to learn more.  At the moment, I think
> I'm with Karen, as I can find portraits of Elizabeth with ruffs (and
> partlets) both open and closed as the fashion demanded, unmarried ladies
> with closed ruffs/partlets, and married ladies with open ruffs/partlets.

Actually, there's only one reference to it: An Italian ambassador at
Elizabeth's court mentioned it in a letter back home.  The quote is
somewhere in QEWU.

So there's not /much/ evidence for it. It could have been a short lived
trend.  About portraits: we all know that they don't accuratley reflect
daily reality, so they too aren't the best source either...guess there's
no firm answer one way or the other.

My original comment was sort of tongue in cheek, too.  (Lord knows I've
seen some overexposed, "mature" tracts of land that would be better off
protected behind a closed partlet. ;)

Drea


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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Book -Painting and the Market in Early Modern
 Antwerp
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This is a great book!  It has pictures of lowerclass women and men that
I've never seen anywhere else.  Plus, it has bunches of great info on how
one should interpret genre paintings of the late 16th & early 17th
century...what can be taken as literal, and which aspects are more
symbolic.  Definitely get it, if you can afford it!

The other must-get book for Flemish genre art is "Joachim Beuckelaer:
Het Markt-En Keukenstuk in De Nederlanden 1550-1650.", published by Stad
Gent (the city of Ghent.)

It's in Dutch, but is cram-packed full of tons of huge color pictures of
marketwomen and the marketplace and 16th c kitchens.

Drea


On Thu, 3 Jul 2003, Saragrace T. Knauf wrote:

> Argh!  I am getting itchy fingers on this one!!  Especially since the
> cover painting is one I have not seen before!  Thought you all might be
> interested!
>
>
>
> http://www.yale.edu/yup/images/0300072392.jpg
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Italian portraits 1550-1570
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You are evil.

I like that in a person.

Drea (one book richer)



On Thu, 3 Jul 2003, Melanie Schuessler wrote:

> While I'm distracted from my work anyway, I thought I would share with
> you all a book that I just got.  It's an exhibition catalog from the
> Kimbell Art Museum in Fort Worth, Texas, entitled "Giovanni Battista
> Moroni:  Renaissance Portraitist."  It's only 80 pages long, but it has
> over 30 different portraits (not all by him), some in color.  Many of
> them I've never seen before, and most of them are 1550-1570.  The
> majority are of men, but there are several nice ones of women and a few
> children as well.
>
> I hunted this down because I was trying to find a better copy of the
> delectable portrait of Isotta Brembati, which you can see here
> http://www.skiff.tcu.edu/SkiffWeb032400/Special.html
> though that pic makes her dress look black and it's actually green.
>
> You can get this from the Museum gift shop.  Go to
> http://www.kimbellart.org/index.cfm
> and click on online shopping, then catalogues.
>
> [standard disclaimer--just a happy costumer, drooling on her new book]
>
> Melanie Schuessler
> http://www.faucet.net/costume
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Roman Toga how to's
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Does anyone have a quick & dirty pictoral guide on toga draping up on his or
her site?

I had a copy of Threads and I can't find it (if anyone remembers the issue
that would be helpful).
This is for the Music Man and I need to show them tomorrow (Saturday).

Thanks in advance for any direction. I did several google searches and found
a little, but nothing with any clarity of direction.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design

"Do you not know I am a woman?.  When I think, I must speak."
As You Like It; III, ii - W. Shakespeare

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Drea Leed wrote:
> You are evil.
> 
> I like that in a person.
> 
> Drea (one book richer)

<big grin>  I'm just impressed I found this book before you did!  I was 
joking with someone that you could charge people tons of money for a 
weekend with free access to your library, a scanner, and a CD burner.

(sing with me) I love books, books love me, we're a happy family...

Melanie Schuessler
http://www.faucet.net/costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman Toga how to's
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Try these two:-
http://www.villaivlilla.com/toga.htm
and
http://home.pacific.net.au/~chrisandpeter/radical/male/male.htm

Linda Walton


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Angela F. Lazear" <angelalazear@sbcglobal.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2003 9:12 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Roman Toga how to's


> Does anyone have a quick & dirty pictoral guide on toga draping up on his or
> her site?
> 
> I had a copy of Threads and I can't find it (if anyone remembers the issue
> that would be helpful).
> This is for the Music Man and I need to show them tomorrow (Saturday).
> 
> Thanks in advance for any direction. I did several google searches and found
> a little, but nothing with any clarity of direction.
> 
> angela
> +++++
> Angela F. Lazear
> Cabbage Rose Costumes
> http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
> Theatrical Costume Design
> 
> "Do you not know I am a woman?.  When I think, I must speak."
> As You Like It; III, ii - W. Shakespeare
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Drea Leed wrote:
>>>Hm...maybe why wearing one's partlet closed was a sign of a married (i.e.,
>>>older and more mature) woman in the later 16th c...

Then I wrote:
>>I'm interested in seeing evidence for this--I've never even heard of it
>>before, but I'm always wanting to learn more.  At the moment, I think
>>I'm with Karen, as I can find portraits of Elizabeth with ruffs (and
>>partlets) both open and closed as the fashion demanded, unmarried ladies
>>with closed ruffs/partlets, and married ladies with open ruffs/partlets.

Then Drea wrote:
> Actually, there's only one reference to it: An Italian ambassador at
> Elizabeth's court mentioned it in a letter back home.  The quote is
> somewhere in QEWU.

Thanks, I'll have to dig that up.

> So there's not /much/ evidence for it. It could have been a short lived
> trend.  About portraits: we all know that they don't accuratley reflect
> daily reality, so they too aren't the best source either...guess there's
> no firm answer one way or the other.

Well, ain't it always the way!  Still, portraits are one of our best 
sources, and if used with care can be helpful.  Since portraits are so 
emblematic, I would think that if the closed/open thing was an important 
social symbol for "married" or "not married" it would show up in 
portraiture.  There are lots of portraits that commemorate betrothals 
and marriages, and they usually have symbolic content to hammer the 
point home--though perhaps that was more popular in Italy than England. 
  I've looked at way too many portraits lately, and they're all starting 
to blend together in my head...

> My original comment was sort of tongue in cheek, too.  (Lord knows I've
> seen some overexposed, "mature" tracts of land that would be better off
> protected behind a closed partlet. ;)

Oh yeah--I'm with you there!!

(Keeping her little "girls" out of the sun!)
Melanie Schuessler
http://www.faucet.net/costume

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> Correction: Dawn dishwashing liquid is not a fabric softener. 

Oops. Sorry about this one :-) Got the names mixed up...
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Subject: [h-cost] Deredere's partlet!
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I just got back from my trip to Drachenwald 10 year where I got to see
Deredere, her dress, and that marvelous partlet (got to cheer for her
Panache too! Welcome to the order!)  None of her pictures do justice to the
amount of work and beauty of these pieces.

Vivat Deredere and say hello to Bertrik and Floris for me and say I made it
back to AnTir safely.

Viscountess Regina (the short lady with the silver dragon coronet


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum - observations
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this is my favorite sports bra:
http://www.title9sports.com/cgi-bin/title9/ 
Summer03___Bras_and_Bra_Tops___Bras_for_DDD_cups318901?SessionID=rfYxfSf 
Q&Args=&Pos=34

it has some stretch, but it's just AMAZING.
Made of CoolMax, too.


On Thursday, July 3, 2003, at 01:31 PM, Lee Thompson-Herbert wrote:

>
>> (now I have not sprung for the $40+
>> bras, so I don't know how they would work)
>
> The bras that have non-stretch cups and straps work much better than  
> the
> usual bra, simply because they don't bounce and sag with every step.   
> I've
> got a couple "posture bras" that are actually better than the usual  
> sports
> bra, simply because very little of the bra is made of stretch  
> material. And
> it has a full back, rather like a tank top which has wide criss-cross  
> straps
> sewn down onto it.  This keeps the straps from biting into your  
> shoulder
> blades.  Let me see if I can find a photo anywhere...
> Here we go:
> http://www.justmysize.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce/ 
> ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=6002&prmenbr=2701&cgrfnbr=1602958233&V=B
> And a longline version:
> http://www.justmysize.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce/ 
> ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=11453&prmenbr=2701&cgrfnbr=1602958233&V=B
>
> Now, if only these were made in cotton or coolmax rather than  
> polyester.  My
> bras have cotton lining, but that does just about nothing in hot  
> weather...
>
> Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
> Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
> Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
> "A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
> _______________________________________________
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Snail slime, was: Fake pearls
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hummmm...  This has got my curiosity up...  Would fish slime work?  
Garden slugs?

Or i wonder if there's a suitable *thoroughly artificial* substitute.

Semi-seriously (and noticing the heat again)

HL

Quite Contrary wrote:

>>Date: Thu, 03 Jul 2003 13:10:12 -0700
>>From: kat@grendal.rain.com
>>Subject: [h-cost] 	Fake pearls, was:  For people who thought my
>>	partlet was a lot of	work :-)
>>    
>>
>
><snippage>
>
>  
>
>>A 15th C Italian recipe for pearls (also from Lightbown) states
>>that 
>>they use powdered crystal glass mixed with white of egg and snail 
>>slime as the foundation of the pearl. 
>>    
>>
>
><snippage>
>
>OK, is it just me?  Or does anyone else have visions of people
>squeezing snails for their slime?  I mean, how in the world do you
>collect snail slime?!?!?!?  Blech....  :-P
>
>A thoroughly grossed out Mary
>
>
>=====
>"Right now I'm having amnesia and deja vu at the same time.  I think I've forgotten this before."     ~ Steven Wright
>_______________________________________________
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>
>  
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Feelin' ignernt
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Don't worry Bjarne, practically every other word in American English
is slang for "penis", it seems.

.heather.


On Friday, July 4, 2003, at 10:55 AM, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> I totally missed that, am i stupid or something!
>
> Bjarne
>
> I give up!!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Heather Rose Jones" <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Friday, July 04, 2003 7:19 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Feelin' ignernt
>
>
>> At 5:36 PM +0200 7/4/03, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>>> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
>>> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>>> Sent: Friday, July 04, 2003 4:27 AM
>>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Feelin' ignernt
>>>
>>>
>>>>  ROTFLMAO!
>>>>  --sue (who does just that, as she had a *good* set of girls)
>>>>
>>>>  Kirrily Robert wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> TOAP is "tits on a platter".
>>
>>> Now that makes sence.
>>> Anyone wants to enlighten an ignorant male member?
>>>
>>> Bjarne
>>
>> <giggle> Well, with all the talk about breasts, I suppose we can talk
>> about "male members" too!  (English slang note to Bjarne: "male
>> member" is sometimes used in trashy romance novels as a euphemism for
>> penis.)
>>
>> Heather
>> -- 
>> *****
>> Heather Rose Jones
>> hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
>> *****
>> _______________________________________________
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>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Help! Need digests 368 - 372
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I'm resending (with a different subject) since this seems to have 
been eaten by the listbot.

HELP!

After two days of pure computer hell, once I was able to get my mail 
again, Netscape ate these digests. I got the subject but no message. 
Since I have been following with interest some of the discussions, would 
someone be so kind as to forward them to me?

Thank you!

Maura Folsom




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Italian portraits 1550-1570
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> (sing with me) I love books, books love me, we're a happy family...
>
> Melanie Schuessler

Ack! That's my favorite version of a Christmas Carol, and I can't find it on
video, and now it's stuck in my head AGAIN!

Nice lyrics, though...I can relate..

OB costume content--I started an Italian gown today (from the Period
Patterns) in some lovely light weight green silk, lined with a heavier
fabric to make it drape better. I had just gotten bodice and sleeves cut out
when my inlaws showed up unexpectedly to celebrate my son's birthday. (Yes,
he is my little Yankee Doodle Dandy, born on the 4th of July..)

Well, since they had driven 600 miles, I figured I should be nice and
socialize. And my son *was* thrilled!



Dianne

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Jul  4 19:55:11 2003
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Feelin' ignernt
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Absolutely not! You're just not a native English speaker familiar with
all of the weird slang terms Americans use. Heck, I don't think I know a
single word of Danish!
--sue

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> 
> I totally missed that, am i stupid or something!
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> I give up!!
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Heather Rose Jones" <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Friday, July 04, 2003 7:19 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Feelin' ignernt
> 
> > At 5:36 PM +0200 7/4/03, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> > >http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
> > >To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > >Sent: Friday, July 04, 2003 4:27 AM
> > >Subject: Re: [h-cost] Feelin' ignernt
> > >
> > >
> > >>  ROTFLMAO!
> > >>  --sue (who does just that, as she had a *good* set of girls)
> > >>
> > >>  Kirrily Robert wrote:
> > >>  >
> > >  > > TOAP is "tits on a platter".
> >
> > >Now that makes sence.
> > >Anyone wants to enlighten an ignorant male member?
> > >
> > >Bjarne
> >
> > <giggle> Well, with all the talk about breasts, I suppose we can talk
> > about "male members" too!  (English slang note to Bjarne: "male
> > member" is sometimes used in trashy romance novels as a euphemism for
> > penis.)
> >
> > Heather
> > --
> > *****
> > Heather Rose Jones
> > hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
> > *****
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Thanks, Carol!
What I meant, in my post, was that I am well endowed enough, that I
kinda do a TOAP presentation in garb, whether I want to or not.  Sorry I
confused you, Bjarne!
--sue

Carol Kocian wrote:
> 
>       Ok, I'll give it a try!  We speak in euphamisms or use
> abbreviations for some things, but please be aware that we are many
> languages and cultures.  While it's funny to those who understand it,
> if we really want to share information we have to be more clear! :-)
> 
>       Some women wear corsets or stays that lift their breasts very
> high and they look like they're being presented on a platter.  Tits
> on a platter, or TOAP.
> 
>       Other discussion went on at the same time regarding the best way
> to position oneself to look the same as the portraits of the period.
> 
>       When you wrote "male member", we just kept on giggling.
> 
>       -Carol
> 
> >Ok, sorry, welll i am really slow today, just got home from work, long hours
> >and did not get my brains with me.
> >Ok, well that is interresting, never heard that before.
> >This is the same as: Bjarne is the same as Dick and Cock Robin Willie and so
> >further, comeon ladies, you know what i meen, well, no
> >further...................
> >But what has that to do with corsets and  tits on a platter?
> >
> >:-)  :-)
> >All smiles here
> >Sorry ladies
> >
> >Does size really matter?
> >I say yes!!!!
> >
> >
> >Bjarne
> >
> >
> >Leif og Bjarne Drews
> >www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> _______________________________________________
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I hate making ruffs. I love how they look, I like wearin' 'em. hate making 
them. Hate. Hate. Hate.

Thank you.

That is all.

-Sarra Wryght
Elizabethan Dress Journals: http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/index.html
Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum - observations
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> Summer03___Bras_and_Bra_Tops___Bras_for_DDD_cups318901?SessionID=rfYxfSf 
> Q&Args=&Pos=34
> 
> it has some stretch, but it's just AMAZING.
> Made of CoolMax, too.

But it's back to the skimpy little straps in the back, which is why
I'm wearing posture bras right now.  A thin little strap that runs 
across the shoulder blade is painful for many women.  If the "Last Resort"
bra they sell were coolmax instead of nylon/spandex, I'd have the perfect
bra.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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That's listed as a Wicking bra, though Lee.  Coolmax
isn't the only option for comfort.  You might want to
try the store in Berkeley to see it in person.

http://www.title9sports.com/cgi-bin/title9/ 
Summer03___Bras_and_Bra_Tops___Wicking_Bras


>
> But it's back to the skimpy little straps in the back, which is why
> I'm wearing posture bras right now.  A thin little strap that runs
> across the shoulder blade is painful for many women.  If the "Last  
> Resort"
> bra they sell were coolmax instead of nylon/spandex, I'd have the  
> perfect
> bra.
>
> Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
> Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
> Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
> "A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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> I thought isenglass was another name for mica?

I don't know if the name is similar but spelled differently or if the 
spelling is the same.

However, this one is fish related. You can actually buy it to use in 
brewing. (It helps to get the sediment out.) I've used it mostly for 
doing period fish glues. (Ick.)

> It's the commonly found sparkly mineral in an awful lot of rocks, and
> can sometimes be found in large slabs on its own.
> 
> Somewhat transparent on its own & refractory; it's been used in stoves
> and fireplaces for wiindows.

Believe me, this one is definitely fish, not mineral. (Although you'd 
think you could also use mica for the pearls as well.)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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In a message dated 7/4/2003 4:10:28 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
angelalazear@sbcglobal.net writes:

> Does anyone have a quick &dirty pictoral guide on toga draping up on his or
> her site?
> 

But aren't the people in "Music Man" supposed to be Greek?
Ann Wass
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Glad to be of service as a place for you to vent that!
Ann Wass
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 Extant 16th corset
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> Michaela,  I was one of the ones you responded to and that's exactly 
> what I meant.  I know I didn't exactly describe the "push in" rather 
> than "up", but that's what I was getting at.  It's a different method 
> than what I'm used to, having been reared in the ways of "grab and 
> hoist" maneuvers from my days in Ren Faire, but I think it's the more 
> accurate one for all of the reasons discussed before.

*phew* glad I added that comment;) I read it as being a monoevre 
*opposite* to hoist you see;) Then the light went on, *bing*!

I could probably get away with the hoist, just to get what is closer to 
a mean size or even the very girlish look of late 15thC.

I can't even wear a bathing suit or a moderately fitting top without 
looking like some huge pre-teen;)

I don't know about Robin's method for me.. I think I'd need to lean 
forward, and hang upside down as much as possible. Lying down sends 
things heading too far out the side;)

And I could also go gainst what painting show of lacing starting at the 
top and being undone at the bottom...

My kirtle is dry now I can experiment with this. Also making it slightly 
smaller at the top. The amount of stretch in linen is quite surprising 
for someone who hasn't worked with it too often;)

Can we say new favourite fibre;) Well besides wool that is;)

Heck, I may complain about being small, but I can of course always pad 
up for designs that require a more ample bosom;)

And as a public apology to Kat, I misread her too, discussed it 
privately but I thought I'd better also mention it publicly.

michaela
http://costumes.glittersweet.com (got new plans for garb:) )



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Just as a side note, I have People and pearls and it does mention 
practically all the methods of faking pearls so far submitted.

But I also have to say I would suspect Catherine di Medici would most 
probably have had real pearls.

And from looking at extant items with pearls on them... I'd say either 
the artist was painting fake pearls or useda  lot of artistic licence to 
make them completely regular.

Probably to look better, but I'm sure it was also easier to paint 
regular circles rather than try and make each pearl individual;)

Lovely photo of a coronet/crown in Burgundian Netherlands from Margaret 
of York's marriage. If they use pearls that are far from regular for an 
item of that import, I'd say it's a safe bet that pearls on garments 
were equally irregular.

In fact it's promted me to go buy real pearls as opposed avoiding pearls 
altogether rather than use fake ones.

We are not talking rice crispie type pearls, but simply small irregular 
pearls:)

michaela
http://glittersweet.com


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On Thursday 03 July 2003 05:45 pm, Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:
> > Was wondering if anyone else had heard of this method for softening
> > linen: wash it in Dawn.  I have a bunch of linen to prewash and this was
> > recommended to me.  Anyone else try it?
>
> Dawn being a fabric softener, I'd think it would soften any fabric. In my
> experience, linen will soften as you wash it, no matter what you use.

? I thought Dawn was a dishwashing detergent.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
 
"You live and learn, or you don't live long."
 Robert Heinlein

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On Thursday 03 July 2003 07:23 pm, Chris Laning wrote:
> At 5:45 PM -0400 7/3/03, Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:
> >  > Was wondering if anyone else had heard of this method for softening
> >>
> >>  linen: wash it in Dawn.  I have a bunch of linen to prewash and this
> >> was recommended to me.  Anyone else try it?
> >
> >Dawn being a fabric softener, I'd think it would soften any fabric. In my
> >experience, linen will soften as you wash it, no matter what you use.
>
> Time to repeat this tip: I haven't had a chance to try this, but a
> friend's mom says that the quickest way to soften scratchy cotton or
> linen is to wet it thoroughly, then freeze it. Then take it out, and
> work the fabric while it's still partly frozen: roll, twist, rub,
> thump, et cetera. Wash and dry it again and it should come out quite
> a bit softer.

Sounds interesting.  Has anybody on the list ever tried this?  I'd be 
concerned that it would be easier to break/damage the fibers....

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
 
"You live and learn, or you don't live long."
 Robert Heinlein

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From: "Stephen Bergdahl" <madlystitching@earthlink.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Back from vakation
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Congratulations Deredere

And welcome to the club.  I'd forgotten that I have a Panache too.  Gotten
more years ago than I care to remember.  Anyway it is a great honor.

Stephen - Lord Porfirevich

----- Original Message -----
From: "Deredere Galbraith" <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2003 8:27 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Back from vakation


>   Hi,
>
> STill tired and feel like my brains are fried but happy.
> The SCA event we went to was great!
> Here are some pictures
> http://www.deredere.dds.nl/DTYC/DTYC.html
> I still don't have nice pictures of me wearing te partlet :-[
> And the picture of my dress isn't very flattering.
> I was tired and it was so hot that I decided not to wear my corset.
>
> Her are some pictures of my back
>
http://www.skauma.org/bildarkiv/dynpage.cgi?last=1057166908&dir=/2003/dw10yc
/frid-evn/P6204316.jpg
>
http://www.skauma.org/bildarkiv/dynpage.cgi?last=1057166908&dir=/2003/dw10yc
/frid-evn/P6204318.jpg
>
> There was no Arts and science contest but a display where I talked with
> some people over my dress.
> But too my supprise I've got an aword for all the work I put in making
> costumes.
> They made me a member of the Order of the Panache. :-) :-) :-)
>
> Order of the Panache
> The Panache is the awarded to those who have distinguished themselves by
> long and consistent excellence in the Arts (and Sciences) and who have
> also constantly made their expertise available to the various members of
> the Kingdom.  The symbol of the Order is (Fieldless) issuant to chief
> from a torteau charged with a bezant pierced sable three feathers gules,
> Or and Sable.
>
> Unfortionally I had an exident with my dress. Someone had a pack of
> blackberry juse standing on the ground an kicked it over. So there were
> some purple stains on my dress :-( :-( . We tried to take it out by
> putting salt on the stains. The stains are almost gone. But making white
> silk satin wet with water already distrois the fabrick. Grrrr....
>
> I now have so many ideas of what I want to make....
> A hat where I can sow the Panache token on,  New corset, Two different
> 16th century dresses, A Robe a la Francaise(bought Kyoto book).....
>
> Greetings,
>         Deredere
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> But aren't the people in "Music Man" supposed to be Greek?
> Ann Wass

Actually, they are supposed to be Iowan.  ;)  Seriously, they aren't
supposed to know what they're doing, that's sort of the point of the bit.

Also, the costumes are rentals and were predesigned.  For the "Grecian Urn"
Rivers of Spring scene, I have these precut ovals that are large, much like
men's Roman togas.  In order to use them, they need to be draped on these
women in any fashion that won't look completely sloppy and which will be
somewhat secure.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design

"O, what a world of vile ill-favored faults
 looks handsome in three hundred pounds a year!..."
The Merry Wives of Windsor, III, iv - W. Shakespeare

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Subject: [h-cost] 
	Bra site; Was: Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum - observations
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Wow!  Thanks for this site...you know I just realized I haven't been
shopping for clothes in over two years.  I was not aware of the new
stuff out there.  I am definitely hunting down a few of these babies for
MY babies....


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: back to pre 1600 figures  was mostly about bras now Re: [h-cost]
 Extant 16th corset
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On Sat, 5 Jul 2003, michaela wrote:

> I don't know about Robin's method for me.. I think I'd need to lean 
> forward, and hang upside down as much as possible. Lying down sends 
> things heading too far out the side;)

Don't worry, you catch that back up as you fit. The idea is that you're
not fighting downwards gravity as you work; the mass is mostly drawn in
against your ribcage, not hanging, and you can pretty much maneuver it
where you want.

--Robin


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Subject: RE: back to pre 1600 figures  was mostly about bras now Re: [h-cost]
	Extant 16th corset
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You've got to try it to believe it....it really works even on VERY large
busted gals!!!  I can see it coming Robin, you might as well post your
directions again!!  :)

On Sat, 5 Jul 2003, michaela wrote:

> I don't know about Robin's method for me.. I think I'd need to lean 
> forward, and hang upside down as much as possible. Lying down sends 
> things heading too far out the side;)



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Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2003 23:57:12 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: back to pre 1600 figures  was mostly about bras now Re: [h-cost]
 Extant 16th corset
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On Fri, 4 Jul 2003, Saragrace T. Knauf wrote:

> You've got to try it to believe it....it really works even on VERY
> large busted gals!!!  I can see it coming Robin, you might as well
> post your directions again!!  :)

Collected posts on 14th/15th c. fitted dress at
http://www.netherton.net/robin . You'll also find a handout about the
fitted dress there. No how-to instructions, but enough to give the
experienced dressmaker a head start. 

(I hope to update this page with more summaries on more topics, but my
first priority this summer is to shop for, buy, and become familiar with a
new computer...)

Caveat: I have never tried the lying-down method for anything later than
1450, but it makes bust manipulation so much easier I'd suggest at least
giving it a shot, for any period in which you're trying to rearrange the
bosom. It's helped me both to make large busts manageable and to make
small busts more shapely.

--Robin

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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Snail slime, was: Fake pearls
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2003 21:54:40 -0700
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OK, is it just me?  Or does anyone else have visions of people
squeezing snails for their slime?  I mean, how in the world do you
collect snail slime?!?!?!?  Blech....  :-P

A thoroughly grossed out Mary


=====
This ought to really push you over the edge:  In another life while
researching the effects of Poly Chlorinated Bi-Phenyls (aka as PCBs)  We
used to collect snails, expose them to the PCBs, cook 'em and grind 'em
up in a blender, then extract their 'juice' to run gas spectrometry on
them.  They sure smelled good cookin' in the lab....

I had to keep reminding myself that we were using radio-isotopic tracers
in them to prevent me from dipping!  

I never paid much attention to it, but I betcha there was plenty of
slime in there!

Sg




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Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 01:16:43 -0400
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From: Carol Kocian <aquazoo@patriot.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Feelin' ignernt
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Bjarne wrote,
>May i take up another poll?
>In the sum,mertime?
>
>Do you prefer cut or uncut?

      This being a costume list, I assume Bjarne must be asking about 
clothing cut & sewn to fit, versus uncut fabric that's draped about 
the body.  Like a quick and dirty toga, sari, kilt, etc.  Right?  For 
summer, yes, a draped, nonrestricting garment can be more comfortable.

      -Carol
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Robin, I was especially thinking of you when I decided to post this. :)

http://www.cottesimple.com/

She just put it up and it is admittedly a bit rough, but so far ti looks 
great, IMO.

Maura

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Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 10:31:57 +0100 (BST)
From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Washing linen
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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> Sounds interesting.  Has anybody on the list ever tried this?  I'd be 
> concerned that it would be easier to break/damage the fibers....
>
The whole idea IS to break the fibres in the linen. It apparently works, and
has the same effect as aging linen has: the older a linen garment the more
often washed it is, and the softer and fluffier it gets. Linen is very sturdy
indeed, breaking the fibres won't kill it, just push forward the aging process.

Nicole

=====
Men Die. Cattle Die. Word-Fame Lives Forever.   ~ Old Norse Aphorism

Email: nicole@kipar.org
URL: http://www.kipar.org

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Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 08:24:48 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cote step-by-step
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On Fri, 4 Jul 2003, Maura Folsom wrote:

> Robin, I was especially thinking of you when I decided to post this.
> :)
> 
> http://www.cottesimple.com/
> 
> She just put it up and it is admittedly a bit rough, but so far ti
> looks great, IMO.

Wow, what a great job! Tasha and I talk a fair amount, and have talked
recently, and she hasn't mentioned working on this, so I hope you haven't
spoiled a surprise; is it public yet, or is she beta-testing? (This
happened to another friend of mine lately -- she let a few friends know
about a site-in-progress before she was done, and next thing she knew it
was all over the net, and she was scrambling to fill in blanks.)

It took me a while to read through, and I'll probably have to go back and
read it closer. It's very impressive.  We've talked quite a bit over the
last couple of years, and I know she's refined her own method based on my
tips, which she indicates in her writeup. There are some things I know she
got from me (e.g. fitting lying down, and fitting the lining first to use
as a guide for the outer fabric), and there were other things she might
have picked up from my handouts, but probably quite bit more she came up
with independently, and I was tickled to see how much we think alike. I
laughed when I read her bit about labeling the pieces while they're on the
person -- I'm pretty sure I haven't written that down anywhere, so it's
nice to see I'm not the only one.  (Of course, Tasha says to "label
unobtrusively," but I usually scrawl LF and RF and LB and RB all over the
lining body in chalk.) We also find the shoulder line in the same way, by
feeling for the muscle. And so on.

There are some things we do very differently.  I always do fittings over a
chemise, for instance, since that's how the dress will be worn, and it
does change the movement of the fabric as well as make a slight size
difference. And I don't often baste on the body -- partly because I tend
to catch the chemise ;-) but also because I do a lot of on-and-off. That
allows me to even out left-to-right pattern pieces at several points
throughout the process instead of trying to play catch-up at the end. I do
two to four incremental fittings, changing the body (and warping the
fabric) a little more with each one; it takes longer but it also creates
(for me) a truer shape. I'm really impressed that Tasha can do so much by
basting-on-the-body; maybe my fingers aren't strong enough, or maybe I'm
just too anal about trying to keep things symmetrical for as long as
possible in the process. (I have the nagging feeling that medieval
seamstresses were a bit more relaxed about some things that I tend to
check obsessively.)

What does concern me is that some people may look at this and see it as a
sort of a competition between "Robin's way" and "Tasha's way." That would
be, I think, an oversimplification, and I don't think it's what Tasha
would intend. Our methods are essentially the same, in that they're both a
four-panel gown fitted on the body to create a shape that echoes period
artwork. Most of the "alternatives" people discuss are vastly different in
overall principle: princess cuts, Herjolfsnes-based cuts, cuts with waist
seams, pattern-drafted methods, methods based on measurements, dresses fit
over bras, etc.  Tasha's experiment here was, by comparison, a minor
tweak, to see how her method came out if she didn't curve the front,
because she knows I advocate a straight front. But we're really far more
alike than different. One of the things I try to stress in my
lectures/workshops is that there were no doubt a lot of individual
variations in approach from one place/year/dressmaker to another, and that
I teach the version that has worked best for me. I also identify a few of
the common silhouette variations in my slide lecture -- obviously they'd
all require slight changes in approach. So a curved front seam is a viable
variation, depending on what you're aiming for. It's not the one I prefer,
but I do what I'm most comfortable with, and I encourage others to make
intelligent choices based on what's known and what's logical. Tasha's
curved-front approach looks to me like a logical variant, for certain
looks/cases/preferences, and that's what *she's* comfortable with.  
Overall, though, it's still the same technique, and we're coming from the
same side of the discussion.

I do worry, though, that some people will look over Tasha's list of pros
and cons of her two dresses and figure they've got a head-to-head
comparison of the two front-seam approaches. I think it's important to
that the comparison isn't really curved-seam vs. front-seam, but rather
Tasha's usual well-refined approach vs. her first attempt to change one
element of it based on a description of another approach.  Anyone's first
try at something is going to be less successful than the nth try. For the
record, most of the things Tasha lists as "cons" on her straight-front
attempt are problems I experienced and learned to work around over the
years. I'd hate to see someone judge the entire method based on Tasha's
first try -- or my first try, for that matter!

Tasha also lists the things she'd do differently, and she's exactly on the
mark with most of that: for instance, if she'd cut the armhole higher at
the bottom, her model would have had much more freedom of movement, and a
higher back would have spread the pressure more evenly. There are other
things I do differently, from experience, that Tasha hasn't had a chance
to discover yet -- for instance, I ran into her "quadriboob" problem (what
a great description!) periodically till I learned to do a bit of a tweak
on the front upper part of the side seam that pulled a certain part
off-grain and eliminated the tension along a horizontal grainline. I also
do much more with stretching and molding the shoulder area; Tasha
speculates about that, but didn't try it, and as a result her model says
the straight-front dress feels like a corset because all the support is
coming from below and none from the shoulder. That's way different from my
technique, and probably way different from what Tasha would do on a
second, third, or fourth try. But I bet I'm going to hear people saying
"Oh, Tasha showed that Robin's method isn't as comfortable."

That's not what Tasha's saying, of course -- she's very clear that this
was a first try, based on description alone. I think it's impressive that
she had as successful a result as she did; she's certainly got a
good-looking and workable dress, even though it's not as flexible and
comfortable as it could have been (and do doubt would be with practice).
And her bottom line on the resulting silhouette shape captures the essence
of the difference.

One thing I think Tasha didn't guess right on is that she speculates that
the straight front seam is probably better only for small-busted women. In
my own experience, I think a curved front -- though easier to fit --
exaggerates the front projection for a larger-busted woman. A straight
front adds more support down the middle (same principle as the busk, but
more flexible) and lets you shape the bust to go wider, rather than
forward, which I think is more typical of period aesthetic. But there were
certainly some variations in period, and a lot of it comes down to
personal preference. In my case, I've learned from practice to work around
the initial difficulties of a straight front seam more satisfactorily than
a curved front. (I absolutely can't stand dealing with the problems of the
lacing bunching or skewing at the point where you go off-grain in a curved
front!)

All in all, a good and comprehensive job, and one I'll probably refer
people to if they want to see visuals. Though I have a feeling I'm going
to have to start dealing with a lot of people who don't read carefully and
base their opinions of *my* work on Tasha's experiment ...

I haven't read Tasha's paper yet, though -- my limp little computer can't 
handle the download.

--Robin



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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dawn Jacobson <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Book -Painting and the Market in Early Modern
  Antwerp
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At 02:09 PM 7/4/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>Could start here - if they're out of it, you could use the data for a ABE 
>search...
>
>http://www.yale.edu/yup/books/072392.htm
>
>Edwinna
>Information Junkie
Edwinna--

I ran an ABE search about 3 weeks ago; that was where I originally thought 
I had found it. There are several copies available in the UK, all for much 
higher prices than from Barnes & Noble here in the US. It's currently 
selling for $45 before any discounts.

B&N was kind enough to send me a 15% off coupon this week, so I'll probably 
run over to the store and order it today (the coupon is good for only the 
stores, or I'd order it online).

Dawn


Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are the costumes we wear every day. 
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Washing linen
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 12:55:05 -0400
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On Saturday 05 July 2003 05:31 am, N Kipar wrote:
> > Sounds interesting.  Has anybody on the list ever tried this?  I'd be
> > concerned that it would be easier to break/damage the fibers....
>
> The whole idea IS to break the fibres in the linen. It apparently works,
> and has the same effect as aging linen has: the older a linen garment the
> more often washed it is, and the softer and fluffier it gets. Linen is very
> sturdy indeed, breaking the fibres won't kill it, just push forward the
> aging process.

Hmmm.  I have a piece I probably should try this on.  Thanks.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
 
"You live and learn, or you don't live long."
 Robert Heinlein

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From: Cynthia J Ley <cley@juno.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] KWCS / KWAR Announcement
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Greetings all. Thought this SCA event might be of interest--the Known
World Costuming Symposium.

Arlys

On Fri, 04 Jul 2003 03:34:27 +0000 bayruh@comcast.net writes:
> 
> Note: You have less than 30 days left to get 20% off your event 
> fees! 
> Please feel free to crosspost this to appropriate lists.
> 
> Known World Costuming Symposium  Known World Academy of the Rapier
> October 17-19, 2003
> Barony of Caerthe, Kingdom of the Outlands (Denver, Colorado)
> Denver Renaissance Hotel 
> www.caerthe.org/knownworld
> 
> The Barony of Caerthe is hosting THE Known World event that you 
> wont want to 
> miss. There will be classes for everyone no matter your skill level. 
> Teachers 
> from all over the Known World are coming together to teach the 
> broadest course 
> of classes in their fields ever assembled. 
> 
> This double event features:
> 200+ hours of classes on costuming, fencing, dance, and joint 
> interest classes. 
> A 5000+ sq ft merchant room.
> Featured speakers Robin Netherton and Tawny Sherrill. 
> A unique opportunity to learn from teachers from all over the Known 
> World, all 
> in one place, all in one weekend.
> The Come-As-You-Arent masked ball with live music and 
> entertainment.
> A Friday night warm-up social.
> Raffles all weekend long including a one-of-a-kind sword.
> Three meals (including the Saturday feast) included with your $40 
> fee ($50 
> after 7/31)
> Reserved hotel rooms at $59 a night featuring all the amenities in a 
> Class A 
> hotel.
> Hotel shuttles from Denver International Airport.
> 
> Expected merchants at KWCS/KWAR. Please check the web site for the 
> latest 
> confirmed merchants.
> Chivalry Bookshelf
> T.L. Barnes Enterprises
> Poison Pen Press
> Calontir Trim
> Canyon Keep Enterprises
> Realm of Regalia
> Merlions Tail / Sewing Central
> The Silk Robe
> Ursulas Alcove
> 
> Full event details are available on the event web site: 
> www.caerthe.org/knownworld
> 
> KWCS Autocrat: Desptissa Eirene Tzimiskina Kontostephanina
> eirenetz@comcast.net
> 
> KWAR Autocrat: The Honorable Lady Rivka Vladimirovna Rivkina
> rivka@caerthe.org


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On Fri, 4 Jul 2003 11:29:20 -0700 Heather Rose Jones
<hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu> writes:
> >I totally missed that, am i stupid or something!
> >
> >Bjarne

Absolutely not! If anything, I would say our perceptions are dictated by
our language. 

> >I give up!!

Bjarne, I've tutored adult non-native English speakers in this
ridiculous, mutates-every-10-seconds language of ours for nearly 15
years. You do great!

And you gave we ladies a giggle! :D

best always,
Arlys

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Totally modern question, but while we're on the subject--

Do you have any suggestions as to where a gal of somewhat irregular size
can find a comfortable bra? I'm a 36C, which isn't hard, but owing to a
lifetime of singing have an torso that belongs on an American football
player and I can never find bras that fit right.

I am looking at getting fitted, just wondering if anyone knew of any
commercial outlets or websites.

Thanks,

Arlys in Portland, Oregon

On Fri, 4 Jul 2003 19:00:26 -0700 Heather Meadows <alice@wonderland.com>
writes:
> 
> That's listed as a Wicking bra, though Lee.  Coolmax
> isn't the only option for comfort.  You might want to
> try the store in Berkeley to see it in person.
> 


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On Sat, 5 Jul 2003, Cynthia J Ley wrote:

> Greetings all. Thought this SCA event might be of interest--the Known
> World Costuming Symposium.

I'll be there (obviously!). Anyone else? I'd love to meet some people from
the list...

--Robin

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>From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
>I'll be there (obviously!). Anyone else? I'd love to meet some people from
>the list...

Rumor has it I'm supposed to attend.

Marc

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Me. Although you've already met me. I hope to have a GFD dress done by
then....
I'm actually skipping a local SCA event to go <g>.
--sue

Robin Netherton wrote:
> 
> On Sat, 5 Jul 2003, Cynthia J Ley wrote:
> 
> > Greetings all. Thought this SCA event might be of interest--the Known
> > World Costuming Symposium.
> 
> I'll be there (obviously!). Anyone else? I'd love to meet some people from
> the list...
> 
> --Robin
> 
> _______________________________________________
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If you are complaining about your torso (and by that I assume
you mean ribcage?  unless you're looking for longline bras)
then you may be wearing a band that is simply too small.
I'd start with a professional fitting at Nordstroms or something
to determine your size.


On Saturday, July 5, 2003, at 09:09 AM, Cynthia J Ley wrote:

> Totally modern question, but while we're on the subject--
>
> Do you have any suggestions as to where a gal of somewhat irregular 
> size
> can find a comfortable bra? I'm a 36C, which isn't hard, but owing to a
> lifetime of singing have an torso that belongs on an American football
> player and I can never find bras that fit right.
>
> I am looking at getting fitted, just wondering if anyone knew of any
> commercial outlets or websites.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Arlys in Portland, Oregon
>
> On Fri, 4 Jul 2003 19:00:26 -0700 Heather Meadows 
> <alice@wonderland.com>
> writes:
>>
>> That's listed as a Wicking bra, though Lee.  Coolmax
>> isn't the only option for comfort.  You might want to
>> try the store in Berkeley to see it in person.
>>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________
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> Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
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Hi,

I am looking for detailed pictures of the type of sleeves as in the
portrait of Maria di Cosimo.
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Bluedress/Bluedress.html
Untill now I have only found some very smal pictures.

The sleeves in the portrait look like the are from transparent silk with
gold stripes and patterns woven in to it, and some white silk lining.
I wonder if I could get fabric like this.

The forepart looks different, more like silk with gold ribbon sewn on to
it...I think.

Greetings,
           Deredere







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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] searching for pictures of sleeves
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 15:59:53 -0700
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Yes!  You can...not sure where right now, but I bought some sheer white
silk with gold stripes in it from an upholstery store.  I wonder if you
might find something similar here: http://www.designerfabrics.ca
They have the most unique silks I have found online....Good Luck.  Sure
is a pretty dress.  What are the blue strips going to be on it?  I think
you are right about the images being of the same sleeves if not the same
person...could be or might be a daughter or relative who inherited the
sleeves.  I think you may have made a discovery here...do you know who
has the second picture these days?

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Deredere Galbraith
Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2003 2:07 PM
To: H-Costume
Subject: [h-cost] searching for pictures of sleeves



Hi,

I am looking for detailed pictures of the type of sleeves as in the
portrait of Maria di Cosimo.
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Bluedress/Bluedress.html
Untill now I have only found some very smal pictures.

The sleeves in the portrait look like the are from transparent silk with
gold stripes and patterns woven in to it, and some white silk lining.
I wonder if I could get fabric like this.

The forepart looks different, more like silk with gold ribbon sewn on to
it...I think.

Greetings,
           Deredere







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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jul  6 19:29:14 2003
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Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2003 19:27:16 -0400
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Subject: [h-cost] Nails -Painting and other decoraations
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My interest area is europe in the 1500's.  I get fairly short acrylic (i
think...), but with a french manicure.  Nails are not always available
for looking at in the pictures on the web.  Has anyone noticed a
pictures of people with any type of nail treatments?
 
I am not really willing to get rid of my nails, but I am curious about
if anyone had noticed it.  

thanks for your time, 

jordana

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman Toga how to's
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In a message dated 7/4/03 4:24:37 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
linda.walton@dsl.pipex.com writes:

> http://www.villaivlilla.com/toga.htm
> and
> http://home.pacific.net.au/~chrisandpeter/radical/male/male.htm
> 
> 

I thought a toga was a circle. Not a football-like shape or a half circle 
[though I thought they did fold the circle in half....slightly off center so you 
got two bands showing on the edge]. I wouldn't trust either of these sites.
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From: "Glenda Robinson" <glendar@compassnet.com.au>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman Toga how to's
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 11:22:31 +1000
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Depends on the period- togae were worn for hundreds of years, and the styles
changed somewhat over time.

My husband contributed somewhat to the second mentioned site. This is for
the late 1st century - early 2nd century AD. Wayne has been researching
Roman wear for around 20 years now, and has read many well-respected
articles on this subject, as have many of our fellow Roman reenactors here
in Australia.

This website is a quick overview they did for people dressing for an ad we
filmed where we had other-period reenactors come along and make some cash,
so it's fairly simplistic.


Wayne's late 1st century tunica et toga, which I made to his specs in 1995
(photo is 2003 - and it's still white (no urine washing, though!), can be
seen on http://amiperiodornot.com/details.mhtml?image_id=45 .

Wayne can go into huge and complex amounts of detail on the changes in toga
design over time, which I will try to get him to do for you all sometime,
but this week his work is taking precedence over his life.

Glenda.

>
> I thought a toga was a circle. Not a football-like shape or a half circle
> [though I thought they did fold the circle in half....slightly off center
so you
> got two bands showing on the edge]. I wouldn't trust either of these
sites.
> _______________________________________________
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Trying this again.  I'm still getting fatal error messages....most
annoying!
--sue

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Just testing....
Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2003 10:36:16 -0600
From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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Had "permanent fatal errors" crop up when I tried to respond to some
threads from earlier in the week.  <<grumble>>
--sue
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From: Jeff Brainard <marcocaprioli@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Washing linen
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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suzy, you would know wierd crap like that ;>

Jeff Brainard


--- Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote:
> And in a completely non-costume related bit, Dawn liquid all does a
> great job disbursing paint evenly.  Well, at least, Christmas tree
> paint.  You may be thinking "???", but some species of evergreens
> used
> for Christmas trees range naturally in color, some even yellowish,
> and
> this can be counteracted, a while prior to harvest, by spraying them
> with a special, thinned mixture of green paint, which helps act as a
> sunscreen for the tree's needles.  My Dad always "boosted" it with
> some
> Dawn.
> How's that for completely odd trivia for your day? <g>
> --sue, getting ready for 4th of July stuff......
> 
> IceGirlNIN@aol.com wrote:
> > 
> > In a message dated 7/4/03 2:10:21 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> > dme_maud@pacbell.net writes:
> > 
> > > Correction: Dawn dishwashing liquid is not a fabric softener. It
> is,
> > > however, a terrific degreaser (it really "keeps grease away from
> your
> > > hands," as advertised), probably because it contains both anionic
> and
> > > nonanionic surfactants. As it removes "stuff," including whatever
> a mill
> > > adds to its fabric to finish it (sizing, starch, etc), using Dawn
> will give
> > > the impression of softening a fabric. You probably would get the
> same
> > > results from using a good laundry detergent (Tide, for example).
> > 
> > Dawn is also really good for stains on anything vaguely washable by
> hand.
> > Pre-treating with Dawn and letting it soak in warm water will
> generally get the
> > stain out, or at least loosened.
> > Y'know, Dawn, if I didn't know better, I'd say you were advertising
> yourself!
> >  <g>
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From: Jeff Brainard <marcocaprioli@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Feelin' ignernt
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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That's not such a bad idea. Anybody really delve into the real
construction of the codpiece? I finally broke down and got me a copy of
the Arnold Patterns of Fashion 1560-1620 and eventually will do up one
of the Sture boys' pants. On another titillating note, I'm researching
the robes of the Order of the Garter during Liz's reign and have nailed
a *legal* copy of Janet Arnold's article on the robes belonging to
Christian IV of Denmark/Norway just slightly post SCA period but still
within the time of the robes being purple rather than blue. I'll keep
you all posted if you like. 

I suppose this would be as good a time as any to introduce myself. I'm
Jeff Brainard, though some of you may know me in the SCA as Marco di
Caprioli (marcello amoung friends). I usually do the Elizabethan thing
but am dead sick of not being as hardcore as I'd like, so I'm on this
list now. 

Laters,

Jeff

> <giggle> Well, with all the talk about breasts, I suppose we can talk
> about "male members" too!  (English slang note to Bjarne: "male 
> member" is sometimes used in trashy romance novels as a euphemism for
> 
> penis.)
> 
> Heather


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul  7 03:43:16 2003
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Rachel?= <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kid's in Elizabethan costume ?
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I know this reply is too late for you Melanie, my server decided to hold onto my mail for a week! 
I do have a link to a picture of a little girl in Elizabethan costume, from my group:

http://www.tudorgroup.co.uk/gallery/misc/katherine.htm

Rachel



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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Rachel?= <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Advice wanted for an England trip
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Dear Pam,

Well if you do decide to come up let me know and I will show you around.  If not I will take my
camera this year and put some photos up to show you what you missed.

Rachel

> Message: 3
> Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 10:29:49 -0700
> From: "David" <someone@eskimo.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Advice wanted for an England trip
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <013901c33ff6$619a1b20$ea9fbbd0@bently>
> Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> Dear Rachel,
> 
> I've been keeping your note in my inbox until I got things straightened out
> enough to know what I'd be doing when, and where.
> 
> While I love Elizabethan, and would love to see Sulgrave Manor, I just don't
> think it's going to happen, especially since I don't plan on renting a car
> (I'm terrified of the idea of driving on the left, my brain just doesn't
> make those kind of adjustments).
> 
> Thank you so much for telling me about it, even if I can't go!
> 
> Pam Dotson
> Everett, WA  USA


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kid's in Elizabethan costume ?
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Thanks maybe next time I do the talk :)

It went really well so I'm sure I'll get roped in again !

Mel

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul  7 06:48:31 2003
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Hi,

Thanks for the link! They have very beautiful stuf! Like this Product ID 
70196 Sheer Middle Embroidered With Metallic Gold Trim.

I am not sure where the dark blue green embroidered strips are made 
from. It looks like silk or maby velvet?
Still trying to figure out how I am going to do the embroidery. But I am 
planning to replicate this dress as authentic as possible.
It will take a wile  :-) .
This portrait is in the Historical Art museum in Vienna The other is in 
Schlo Fasanerie, Eichenzel.
I would love to see both portraits...

Greetings,
        Deredere

Saragrace T. Knauf wrote:

>Yes!  You can...not sure where right now, but I bought some sheer white
>silk with gold stripes in it from an upholstery store.  I wonder if you
>might find something similar here: http://www.designerfabrics.ca
>They have the most unique silks I have found online....Good Luck.  Sure
>is a pretty dress.  What are the blue strips going to be on it?  I think
>you are right about the images being of the same sleeves if not the same
>person...could be or might be a daughter or relative who inherited the
>sleeves.  I think you may have made a discovery here...do you know who
>has the second picture these days?
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
>On Behalf Of Deredere Galbraith
>Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2003 2:07 PM
>To: H-Costume
>Subject: [h-cost] searching for pictures of sleeves
>
>
>
>Hi,
>
>I am looking for detailed pictures of the type of sleeves as in the
>portrait of Maria di Cosimo.
>http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Bluedress/Bluedress.html
>Untill now I have only found some very smal pictures.
>
>The sleeves in the portrait look like the are from transparent silk with
>gold stripes and patterns woven in to it, and some white silk lining.
>I wonder if I could get fabric like this.
>
>The forepart looks different, more like silk with gold ribbon sewn on to
>it...I think.
>
>Greetings,
>           Deredere
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>  
>

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Sending this again (didn't work the 1st time).
--sue

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum - observations
Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2003 12:19:10 -0600
From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
Reply-To: mooncat@in-tch.com
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20030703.081733.-358321.1.catpurson@juno.com>
<002b01c34171$933a7ea0$06a7b944@mad.chartermi.net>

I'd recommend doing one of those bodices or corsets stiffened with hemp
cord.  Use a decent-weight linen for the fabric.
With these materials, your sports corset would be washable, and
"breathable" from the natural fibers.
--sue
Rebecca wrote:
> 
 
> I have also pondered a bit the thought of a sports corset. My husband and I
> are starting to run, and I commented that my corset certainly holds me
> better than any sports bra I have worn (now I have not sprung for the $40+
> bras, so I don't know how they would work). And that just naturally led to
> "how would I make a corset that was sports-proof?" Would steel boning work,
> or would I need some other, lighter material? What about fabric
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Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2003 06:33:24 -0600
From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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Sending this again....
--sue

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Started a New Dress Diary
Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2003 10:31:54 -0600
From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
Reply-To: mooncat@in-tch.com
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <29.43a10a94.2c3483fc@aol.com>

How fun!
I look forward to seeing more of your details as your project
progresses.
My "project" for the year is a complete middle-class outfit, in much the
same way you're doing one, but I'm being sidetracked at the moment by
having to find a new place to live.  Oh, and learning drop spindle (my
new guilty pleasure! <g>).
--sue, who adores dress diaries in any case

LoreleiMorte@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Yeah, what the subject line says
> 
> http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/lowclass.html
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 ModernAntwerp]
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Sending it again....
--sue

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Book -Painting and the Market in Early Modern
Antwerp
Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2003 10:26:14 -0600
From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
Reply-To: mooncat@in-tch.com
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20030704155324.T13623-100000@shell.siscom.net>

Drea, do you have any more info on that Beuckelaer book? Like an ISBN?
--sue, who never needs an excuse for a new book or more fabric ;o)

Drea Leed wrote:
> 
> This is a great book!  It has pictures of lowerclass women and men that
> I've never seen anywhere else.  Plus, it has bunches of great info on how
> one should interpret genre paintings of the late 16th & early 17th
> century...what can be taken as literal, and which aspects are more
> symbolic.  Definitely get it, if you can afford it!
> 
> The other must-get book for Flemish genre art is "Joachim Beuckelaer:
> Het Markt-En Keukenstuk in De Nederlanden 1550-1650.", published by Stad
> Gent (the city of Ghent.)
> 
> It's in Dutch, but is cram-packed full of tons of huge color pictures of
> marketwomen and the marketplace and 16th c kitchens.
> 
> Drea
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] KWCS / KWAR Announcement
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 08:58:30 -0400
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Are we going to wear little "h"s so we know each other?

----- Original Message -----
From: "Marc Carlson" <marccarlson20@hotmail.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2003 2:35 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] KWCS / KWAR Announcement


> >From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
> >I'll be there (obviously!). Anyone else? I'd love to meet some people
from
> >the list...
>
> Rumor has it I'm supposed to attend.
>
> Marc
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman Toga how to's
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In a message dated 7/6/03 9:21:24 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
glendar@compassnet.com.au writes:

> Wayne can go into huge and complex amounts of detail on the changes in toga
> design over time, which I will try to get him to do for you all sometime,
> but this week his work is taking precedence over his life.
> 
> 

Cool. Sounds interesting. We'll have to remind you later.....
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From: "Beteena Paradise" <bkessinger@ureach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <3F088F61.5080505@kabelfoon.nl>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] searching for pictures of sleeves
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 09:06:46 -0400
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To me, the sleeves look like the gold might be sewn on. Look at the close up
picture of the sleeve. It looks like the gold is slightly raised in
comparison to the white. You can especially see it on the topmost gold
stripe. Of course this could just be my eyes!

Teena

----- Original Message -----
From: "Deredere Galbraith" <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2003 5:06 PM
Subject: [h-cost] searching for pictures of sleeves


>
>
> Hi,
>
> I am looking for detailed pictures of the type of sleeves as in the
> portrait of Maria di Cosimo.
> http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Bluedress/Bluedress.html
> Untill now I have only found some very smal pictures.
>
> The sleeves in the portrait look like the are from transparent silk with
> gold stripes and patterns woven in to it, and some white silk lining.
> I wonder if I could get fabric like this.
>
> The forepart looks different, more like silk with gold ribbon sewn on to
> it...I think.
>
> Greetings,
>            Deredere
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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>

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul  7 09:42:00 2003
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] searching for pictures of sleeves
From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hi all!

I found this cool portrait of a 16th lady with a really cool pearl and
flower and what looks like black velvet cap. Does anyone have any idea where
the original is etc?

http://homepage.mac.com/cassandragreer/question.html

Thanks!

Cass :)

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] searching for pictures of sleeves
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 02:02:31 +1200
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> To me, the sleeves look like the gold might be sewn on. Look at the close
up
> picture of the sleeve. It looks like the gold is slightly raised in
> comparison to the white. You can especially see it on the topmost gold
> stripe. Of course this could just be my eyes!

No, it probably is sewn on given the sheer number of gold on white striped
sleeves I've come across in recent searches of late 16thC clothing. They all
seem to have that vertical line down the cf of the sleeve too.

It may be obvious to those who study this era closely as to how many ways
these sleeves were constructed;) Well as a whole bodice actually, I keep
seeing the same pattern on an under bodice (thinking of making one of these
gowns myself, just need to get the perfect cotton velvet;) )

The stripes all come in a variety of widths/number/fabrics.

I found a great portrait of Elizabeth de Valois an the print really showed
her stripes were definately sewn down. The white silk (satin or whatever) is
ever so slightly puffed/gathered between each stripe.

And I don't really think the other portrait shows the same sleeves. The
number of stripes are different, though there does seem to be a sheer layer
over the top too.

michaela
annoyed as I lost *all* my email at the same time as having my emails
returned from the h-cost list server.. so I lost a long write up of my how
to lace my kirtle properly post...
http://costumes.glittersweet.com





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Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2003 16:07:43 +0200
From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] 
	16th cent ladies cap with peals and flowers on black velvet
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Whoops let me chance the heading!

> Hi all!
> 
> I found this cool portrait of a 16th lady with a really cool pearl and
> flower and what looks like black velvet cap. Does anyone have any idea where
> the original is etc?
> 
> http://homepage.mac.com/cassandragreer/question.html
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Cass :)
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> 

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Subject: [h-cost] Washing linen
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Also, the reason swimsuits become discolored is not that the color is 
being "bled" out of them but that the color is being _bleached_, 
which is a different process. As far as I know, none of the remedies 
against colors _running_ offer any protection against _bleaching_.
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

My water aerobics instructor was the one who recommended the soaking
with vinegar and she seemed to feel it would help the fabric last
longer, not so worried about the colors.  I kind of figured the vinegar
was to counteract the bleach but soaking, and then swimming/washing,
over and over would seem to negate it's effect pretty fast.  Using a
little vinegar in the wash makes much more sense to me.  As I am now a
regular at water aerobics I will have a chance to give this a try :).

Thanks for everyone's input!

Catherine
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Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2003 08:20:47 -0700
From: Dawn Jacobson <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nails -Painting and other decoraations
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At 07:27 PM 7/6/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>My interest area is europe in the 1500's.  I get fairly short acrylic (i
>think...), but with a french manicure.  Nails are not always available
>for looking at in the pictures on the web.  Has anyone noticed a
>pictures of people with any type of nail treatments?
>
>I am not really willing to get rid of my nails, but I am curious about
>if anyone had noticed it.
>
>thanks for your time,
>
>jordana

Having just checked the following portraits (color photos from Boucher):

A. Bronzino: "Lucretia Panciatichi," c.1550-60
Holbein: "Jane Seymour", 1536
Anon.: "Mary, Queen of Scots", before 1575
Anon: "Queen Elizabeth I", c.1593 (the Ditchley Portrait)
L. Cranach: "Woman with a Hat", c.1525
L. Cranach: "Portrait of Sybilla of Cleves," (n.d.)
Anon. "Portrait presumed to be Elizabeth, daughter of Gustavus I," c.1590
Antonio Moro: "Catherine of Austria, Queen of Portugal," c.1552
Titian: "Isabella of Portugal, Wife of Charles V," c.1535

I feel pretty safe in saying that varnishing or doing anything special to 
nails was not done by regular people in Europe during the 16th century. As 
most of the compounds used to manufacture nail varnish were not invented 
until the early 20th century, I would be surprised to see any mention of 
varnishing nails prior to that time. All of the women whose portraits I 
checked are depicted with their nails cut short (at the finger tip) and 
unvarnished.

The earliest mention of nail varnish being available that I could find was 
a page reference in a reprint of a 1927 Sears Roebuck catalog. 
Unfortunately, that page was not included, so I can't tell you what colors 
were available. I do know, however, that it was fairly commonplace by the 
1930s (the first several scenes of the play/movie "The Women" (1939) 
revolve around the story a manicurist is relating and a specific color of 
nail varnish--Jungle Red--one should ask for to get the story), and a 
cosmetology textbook I have from 1940 gives complete instructions on how to 
give manicures and varnish nails. IIRC, long, varnished nails became 
fashionable about the same time as being tan: both were symbols of having 
money. Long nails indicated that you didn't have to do any work with your 
hands, including housework, and varnish draws attention to the fact you 
have long nails, while having a tan indicated that you had enough money to 
travel to places like California and Florida to do nothing except work on a 
tan.

Unfortunately, a french manicure does stand out, just as modern make-up 
stands out, on photographs taken of people in 16th C. costume. You must 
remember, the camera sees every detail, where the eye can be drawn to 
specific areas and away from others. The bands of white from a french 
manicure stand out as a jarring note, as nails long enough to give an 
impression similar to a french manicure were not worn. You may want to 
consider wearing gloves: they are period, appropriate, and can 
disguise/hide acrylic nails.

Dawn

Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are the costumes we wear every day. 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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At 09:54 PM 7/6/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>That's not such a bad idea. Anybody really delve into the real
>construction of the codpiece? I finally broke down and got me a copy of
>the Arnold Patterns of Fashion 1560-1620 and eventually will do up one
>of the Sture boys' pants. On another titillating note, I'm researching
>the robes of the Order of the Garter during Liz's reign and have nailed
>a *legal* copy of Janet Arnold's article on the robes belonging to
>Christian IV of Denmark/Norway just slightly post SCA period but still
>within the time of the robes being purple rather than blue. I'll keep
>you all posted if you like.
>
>I suppose this would be as good a time as any to introduce myself. I'm
>Jeff Brainard, though some of you may know me in the SCA as Marco di
>Caprioli (marcello amoung friends). I usually do the Elizabethan thing
>but am dead sick of not being as hardcore as I'd like, so I'm on this
>list now.
>
>Laters,
>
>Jeff

Hi Jeff and welcome!

The pattern for Svante Sture's pluderhose in Arnold work, but you'll 
probably want to build a toile before cutting into the actual fabric, just 
to make sure the fit works on your body. A friend of mine has built about 
10 sets of pluders for different people; she says you just have to leave 
everything you know about building modern pants behind, and take it on 
faith that it will work, as the seams are in (to us) really weird places. 
My husband's pluders are constructed of dark green wool edged with red 
braid, flat-lined with white linen, and with light brown linen "bags" (the 
baggy center lining).

Oh, the codpiece pattern works too. His matches his pluders, and has a bell 
on it (those silly German boys!).

Dawn

Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are the costumes we wear every day. 
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Subject: [h-cost] Welcome Jeff: Was: Feelin' ignernt
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Welcome Jeff, It is great to have another guy on the list!  There aren't
too many.....
Sounds like a very interesting project...I am sure if you post your
results you will have lots of attention.  

I know there are folks who have done codpieces on the list (I am not one
of them).  If you will repost and change the subject line, you will have
more luck getting answers.

Again, welcome to the crazy h-cost list!

Saragrace (aka Sg)


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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] 16th cent ladies cap with peals and flowers on black
	velvet
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 08:58:56 -0700
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Did you try writing the museum?  Very cool picture...


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul  7 12:10:44 2003
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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
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Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 09:08:38 -0700
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Subject: [h-cost] Designer Fabrics-how do you get to product 70196?
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I have never noticed that these folks don't have a search function.  I
always just browse and drool.  How did you get to 70196..I tried silks
and sheers...?

 

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul  7 12:17:31 2003
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman Toga how to's
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 09:16:29 -0700
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After looking at these web sites, I have a question (possibly a dumb one,
I've never paid much attention to Roman before):  How do you weave something
"into a semi-circular form"?  I'm not familiar with any weaving technique
that would allow you to do such a thing, and I'd love to learn about a new
one!

Pam Dotson
Everett, WA  USA
----- Original Message -----
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2003 5:06 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman Toga how to's


> In a message dated 7/4/03 4:24:37 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> linda.walton@dsl.pipex.com writes:
>
> > http://www.villaivlilla.com/toga.htm
> > and
> > http://home.pacific.net.au/~chrisandpeter/radical/male/male.htm
> >
> >
>
> I thought a toga was a circle. Not a football-like shape or a half circle
> [though I thought they did fold the circle in half....slightly off center
so you
> got two bands showing on the edge]. I wouldn't trust either of these
sites.
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul  7 12:20:38 2003
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Designer Fabrics-how do you get to product 70196?
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It is not a fabrick but a trim :-)
http://www.designerfabrics.ca/cgi-bin/DCShops/dcshop.cgi?database=trims&action=view_product&productID=70196&category=9DCRB1&currentNO=1

Greetings,
        Deredere

Saragrace T. Knauf wrote:

>I have never noticed that these folks don't have a search function.  I
>always just browse and drool.  How did you get to 70196..I tried silks
>and sheers...?
>
> 
>
>_______________________________________________
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>  
>



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From: "Beteena Paradise" <bkessinger@ureach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] searching for pictures of sleeves
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I don't know where it is from, but the hat is spectacular!

Teena

----- Original Message -----
From: "Cassandra Greer" <cassandra@greer.de>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2003 9:39 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] searching for pictures of sleeves


> Hi all!
>
> I found this cool portrait of a 16th lady with a really cool pearl and
> flower and what looks like black velvet cap. Does anyone have any idea
where
> the original is etc?
>
> http://homepage.mac.com/cassandragreer/question.html
>
> Thanks!
>
> Cass :)
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nails -Painting and other decoraations
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Thanks, the glove idea is a great one.  I like my fake nails in modern
life-my own nails up to the point that I started to get fake ones alwasy
were so weak they bent back and hurt unless i kept them alsmost too
short but i have been wondering what to do with them in costume.  I only
started to get them done in the last year, so i have not delt with nails
as a facet of dress before.


Dawn Jacobson wrote:
>(lots of god stuff cliped)

 You may want to
> consider wearing gloves: they are period, appropriate, and can
> disguise/hide acrylic nails.
> 
> Dawn
> 
> Dawn Jacobson
> Vallejo, CA, USA
> 
> Clothes are the costumes we wear every day.
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nails -Painting and other decoraations
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you can always keep them short-ish and ask for a "natural"
as well.  They usually have a sheer buff color that
just makes your nails look clean.  Also, many salons
have matte top coats for "male manicures" (women
can of course get them too) for a natural look.


On Monday, July 7, 2003, at 10:13 AM, J.A.Urbik wrote:

> Thanks, the glove idea is a great one.  I like my fake nails in modern
> life-my own nails up to the point that I started to get fake ones 
> alwasy
> were so weak they bent back and hurt unless i kept them alsmost too
> short but i have been wondering what to do with them in costume.  I 
> only
> started to get them done in the last year, so i have not delt with 
> nails
> as a facet of dress before.
>
>
> Dawn Jacobson wrote:
>> (lots of god stuff cliped)
>
>  You may want to
>> consider wearing gloves: they are period, appropriate, and can
>> disguise/hide acrylic nails.
>>
>> Dawn
>>
>> Dawn Jacobson
>> Vallejo, CA, USA
>>
>> Clothes are the costumes we wear every day.
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: Cecilia <pyrfectpup@earthlink.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman Toga how to's
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David wrote:

> After looking at these web sites, I have a question (possibly a dumb one,
> I've never paid much attention to Roman before):  How do you weave something
> "into a semi-circular form"?  I'm not familiar with any weaving technique
> that would allow you to do such a thing, and I'd love to learn about a new
> one!

There is a technique where you take a circle (such as the outside of a wheel)
and weave a circular piece (often a rug). You first put in your warps, in the
same manner as hubs would go if it were a wagon wheel. Then you begin weaving
from the middle, going to the outside. As the warps become farther a part, you
add in new warps. I see no reason why this technique couldn't be adapted to a
semi-circle by beginning with a semi-circle.

By the way - Everett is great. My sister lives in Snohomish and I was there last
week and will be going back later this month.

--
Cecilia
knitting a new paradigm in southern California
pyrfectpup@earthlink.net
http://home.earthlink.net/~pyrfectpup/



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum - observations
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>   I love mine
> > and would wear it daily if it weren't so hot and so damned hard to get
> > into.  And it does give an odd shape for T-shirt and jeans.
> >
> > Lalah
> > Never give up, Never surrender
>
>AMEN! Although I have to see if I can take the sides in a bit on mine - I
>seem to have dropped some weight since first constructing it (in one sense -
>YAY; in another - grrrr ;-)
>
>I have also pondered a bit the thought of a sports corset. My husband and I
>are starting to run, and I commented that my corset certainly holds me
>better than any sports bra I have worn (now I have not sprung for the $40+
>bras, so I don't know how they would work). And that just naturally led to
>"how would I make a corset that was sports-proof?" Would steel boning work,
>or would I need some other, lighter material? What about fabric - CoolMax
>corsets? And of course, how would it be marketed? I can't see a whole lot of
>women being excited about wearing a *corset* to exercise in! Any thoughts?
>(gee, maybe I *should* look at some sort of patent on this!)

Let me be your first customer.  I wear my Victorian corset while morris 
dancing, which involves lots of jumping up and down, because no sports bra 
I have ever seen prevents the bouncing I find so painful.  But it's 
seriously not a modern shape.  I'd like a corset that I could wear for 
everyday (Margo - you listen too).  I would buy someone else's pattern for 
them, if one existed, and make several.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Modern corset (was Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at
  BayNatMuseum - observations
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Is there a historical corset that gives anything like a modern shape when 
worn under modern clothes?  I'd wear one for everyday if I had 
it.  Actually, I'd build several and wear them.

>         I made my Elizabethan corset from Margo's pattern.  And wore it
>for almost a week at an event.  I was walking around on asphalt and
>cement for from seven to twelve hours and at the end of the day my feet
>and legs were killing me, but my back (that normally aches) was not at
>all painful.  As far as the bust goes, I do tend to the squash flat
>method and the corset was actually more comfortable than any bra I have
>ever owned.  It doesn't seem reasonable, but there it is.  I love mine
>and would wear it daily if it weren't so hot and so damned hard to get
>into.  And it does give an odd shape for T-shirt and jeans.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: [h-cost] The Six Wives of Henry VIII
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Greetings.

On July 16 and 23, PBS will be airing a 2 part documentary on The Six Wives of Henry VIII from the wives' points of view. Is this the one that was broadcast a while back in the UK? Dr. David Starkey is the host.

kate
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Subject: Re: Modern corset (was Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at
	BayNatMuseum - observations
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I would think a regency corset would give the most modern shape,
or could be adapted to, since it's the lift & separate style that most
modern bras aim for.


On Monday, July 7, 2003, at 10:56 AM, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

> Is there a historical corset that gives anything like a modern shape 
> when worn under modern clothes?  I'd wear one for everyday if I had 
> it.  Actually, I'd build several and wear them.
>
>>         I made my Elizabethan corset from Margo's pattern.  And wore 
>> it
>> for almost a week at an event.  I was walking around on asphalt and
>> cement for from seven to twelve hours and at the end of the day my 
>> feet
>> and legs were killing me, but my back (that normally aches) was not at
>> all painful.  As far as the bust goes, I do tend to the squash flat
>> method and the corset was actually more comfortable than any bra I 
>> have
>> ever owned.  It doesn't seem reasonable, but there it is.  I love mine
>> and would wear it daily if it weren't so hot and so damned hard to get
>> into.  And it does give an odd shape for T-shirt and jeans.
>
>
>        CarolynKayta Barrows
> dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
>          www.FunStuft.com
>
>              //// \\\
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From: "Megan M." <megan@benchite.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] sports corset
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 14:59:15 -0400
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You all might just have something here.  Let's see, if I recall correctly,
we need a sports corset boned with something like hemp or cotton cord to
make it washable, made out of either linen or coolmax fabric, multi-sized as
we run the range from size 2 to 30+ on this list, with cup sized from small
to multiple-D.  What about take Margo's corset, shorten a few inches off the
bottom, perhaps add just a bit of curve to the front instead of completely
straight-fronted (that can be done if not using the heavy spring steel), and
try that out?  I'm game, but just moved and my sewing room is all over the
garage right now, and it will be a week or two before I get it put together
again.  Who's first?
-Megan

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Six Wives of Henry VIII
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At 14:43 07/07/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>On July 16 and 23, PBS will be airing a 2 part documentary on The Six 
>Wives of Henry VIII from the wives' points of view. Is this the one that 
>was broadcast a while back in the UK? Dr. David Starkey is the host.

No, it was on Channel 5 last year. David Starkey is not my favourite 
academic, and the series was a great disappointment to me. Very simplistic, 
repeating some of the old myths that have been discarded by other scholars. 
Definitely the old view.


Lynne Connolly, GSOLFOT
Award winning Historical Romance author.
The Richard and Rose books from <http://www.novelbooksinc.com/>Novelbooks Inc.
YORKSHIRE, DEVONSHIRE and now VENICE
VANESSA from <http://www.awe-struck.net/>Awe-Struck books
http://www.geocities.com/lynne_connolly2001/  

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: Modern corset (was Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at
  BayNatMuseum - observations
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At 11:52 07/07/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>I would think a regency corset would give the most modern shape,
>or could be adapted to, since it's the lift & separate style that most
>modern bras aim for.

It was rumoured that the women in "Pride and Prejudice" used Wonderbras to 
get the shape!


Lynne Connolly, GSOLFOT
Award winning Historical Romance author.
The Richard and Rose books from <http://www.novelbooksinc.com/>Novelbooks Inc.
YORKSHIRE, DEVONSHIRE and now VENICE
VANESSA from <http://www.awe-struck.net/>Awe-Struck books
http://www.geocities.com/lynne_connolly2001/  

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Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2003 15:28:06 -0400
From: "J.A.Urbik" <jaurbik@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sports corset
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My contrabutioon- Have the back lace up but have the front with one of
those l800 (i think) busks that hook, so it can be ajusted for time of
the month/weight gain and also easly gotten in and out of.

its a good idea.  I am just finishing my first corset today( sewing down
the inside of the pipping around the edges and putting in the lacing
holes) so i will have to see if it is as suppotive as all you ladies
say.  

But i have to go out and get my nails and face done as i have just been
called for a job intervview for tomorrow morning.  PLEASE let me get
this one.  I am starting (h**l, i HAVE BEEN) to get very worried about
having a job come the start of the new year.  I actually applied to CITY
(NYC) schools over the weekend.  

jordana


"Megan M." wrote:
> 
> You all might just have something here.  Let's see, if I recall correctly,
> we need a sports corset boned with something like hemp or cotton cord to
> make it washable, made out of either linen or coolmax fabric, multi-sized as
> we run the range from size 2 to 30+ on this list, with cup sized from small
> to multiple-D.  What about take Margo's corset, shorten a few inches off the
> bottom, perhaps add just a bit of curve to the front instead of completely
> straight-fronted (that can be done if not using the heavy spring steel), and
> try that out?  I'm game, but just moved and my sewing room is all over the
> garage right now, and it will be a week or two before I get it put together
> again.  Who's first?
> -Megan
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Six Wives of Henry VIII
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 14:32:34 -0500
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Yes, it is.  I have the DVD on its way to me and have had the huge companion
book for several months--the UK version--it has just been published here in
the states.  The book spends a lot more time and space with Henry's first
two wives; Starkey has spent a lot of research going back to original and
contemporary sources to bring some new light on especially Catherine of
Aragon and theorizes a possible different cause of death for Prince Arthur,
for instance.

Cindy Abel


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul  7 15:38:46 2003
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Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2003 12:35:50 -0700
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: Modern corset (was Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at
	BayNatMuseum - observations
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Sounds like a good idea.  I think I have the Past Pattterns 1830s corset 
pattern.  Has anyone here ever used this one?  Is it OK?

>I would think a regency corset would give the most modern shape,
>or could be adapted to, since it's the lift & separate style that most
>modern bras aim for.
>
>>Is there a historical corset that gives anything like a modern shape when 
>>worn under modern clothes?  I'd wear one for everyday if I had 
>>it.  Actually, I'd build several and wear them.
>>
>>>         I made my Elizabethan corset from Margo's pattern.  And wore it
>>>for almost a week at an event.  I was walking around on asphalt and
>>>cement for from seven to twelve hours and at the end of the day my feet
>>>and legs were killing me, but my back (that normally aches) was not at
>>>all painful.  As far as the bust goes, I do tend to the squash flat
>>>method and the corset was actually more comfortable than any bra I have
>>>ever owned.  It doesn't seem reasonable, but there it is.  I love mine
>>>and would wear it daily if it weren't so hot and so damned hard to get
>>>into.  And it does give an odd shape for T-shirt and jeans.

I do other periods than historical, and my beady little brain started 
thinking about making a Regency-style corset into a mundane garment.  I 
could use any cheap plastic boning I could find, since these would bend 
into my shape anyway, which would be perfect here.  I could make it in 
outerwear fabrics, call it a bustier, and wear it under unbuttoned 
shirts.  A removable non-washable busk could still be used, as it would 
come out before I washed the garment.  I could make it fasten in the front, 
using real metal bones there instead of a busk.  Thank you.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: Re: Modern corset (was Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at
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On Monday, July 7, 2003, at 12:27  PM, Lynne Connolly wrote:

> At 11:52 07/07/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>> I would think a regency corset would give the most modern shape,
>> or could be adapted to, since it's the lift & separate style that most
>> modern bras aim for.
>
> It was rumoured that the women in "Pride and Prejudice" used 
> Wonderbras to get the shape!

Um.  No.  Those were honest to God regency corsets under those gowns in 
A&E's "P&P".  Jennifer Erle is just rather well endowed naturally.  ;)

Sarah

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman Toga how to's
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At 9:16 AM -0700 7/7/03, David wrote:
>After looking at these web sites, I have a question (possibly a dumb one,
>I've never paid much attention to Roman before):  How do you weave something
>"into a semi-circular form"?  I'm not familiar with any weaving technique
>that would allow you to do such a thing, and I'd love to learn about a new
>one!

I don't know how solid the reasoning is for believing that togas were 
woven to shape, but consider that the evidence we have for 
Roman-style _tunics_ (via Egypt, although many of the examples are 
somewhat later) shows some fairly sophisticated weaving-to-shape. 
The tunics were made on a very wide loom -- probably upright -- with 
the garment set sideways across the loom.  You'd start weaving at the 
top with one cuff edge, weave the first sleeve, widen the weaving 
area to do the body (leaving an open vertical slit for the neck 
opening) then finish up with the second sleeve.

If one were weaving a toga to shape on the loom, it would be done 
similarly -- you'd simply ignore warp threads that weren't part of 
the shape you were trying to create.  Keep in mind that these looms 
would have involved passing the shuttle through the shed by hand -- 
no flying shuttles! -- so you aren't slowing the process down by 
doing only partial wefts.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
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Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 12:59:58 -0700
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From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman Toga how to's
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At 11:33 AM -0700 7/7/03, Cecilia wrote:
>David wrote:
>
>>  After looking at these web sites, I have a question (possibly a dumb one,
>>  I've never paid much attention to Roman before):  How do you weave something
>>  "into a semi-circular form"?  I'm not familiar with any weaving technique
>>  that would allow you to do such a thing, and I'd love to learn about a new
>>  one!
>
>There is a technique where you take a circle (such as the outside of a wheel)
>and weave a circular piece (often a rug). You first put in your warps, in the
>same manner as hubs would go if it were a wagon wheel. Then you begin weaving
>from the middle, going to the outside. As the warps become farther a part, you
>add in new warps. I see no reason why this technique couldn't be adapted to a
>semi-circle by beginning with a semi-circle.

I can't see this working for anything larger than, say, a hand-sized 
piece, unless you were adding new warps as you go along (as in some 
basketry techniques).  I've never heard of using this sort of 
technique for large pieces of fabric.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Six Wives of Henry VIII
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On Monday, July 7, 2003, at 12:32  PM, Cynthia Abel wrote:

> Yes, it is.  I have the DVD on its way to me and have had the huge 
> companion
> book for several months--the UK version--it has just been published 
> here in
> the states.  The book spends a lot more time and space with Henry's 
> first
> two wives; Starkey has spent a lot of research going back to original 
> and
> contemporary sources to bring some new light on especially Catherine of
> Aragon and theorizes a possible different cause of death for Prince 
> Arthur,
> for instance.

Starkey is an *interesting* historian.  Definitely not my favorite.  
For the best "Six Wives" history ever, I suggest reading Alison Weir's 
"The Six Wives of Henry VIII".  It's her best historical biography 
she's written, no doubt because she felt some personal connection to 
each of the wives.  I'm reading her newest book "Mary Queen of Scots 
and the Murder of Lord Darnley" and it's slower going than "Six Wives", 
but loaded with research.  I think that tends to be her weakness, 
actually... She's so well researched that getting all that information 
into one book is difficult without it being on the dry side.

Sarah

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Subject: [h-cost] Cloche hat pattern?
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Hi,
Would any of you know of a nice cloche hat pattern I could buy? Or would one 
of you have one and be nice enough to send me a copy (I'll pay for it, don't 
worry)?
I've seen some on eBay but they always go for 30$+ US... once converted to 
CDN dollars, it's not worth it anymore...
Thanks!
Audrey

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> > Dawn being a fabric softener, I'd think it would soften any fabric. In 
>my
> > experience, linen will soften as you wash it, no matter what you use.
>
>? I thought Dawn was a dishwashing detergent.

Yes it is, I already sent a "whoops" email a few days back :-) Sorry again!

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From: Cecilia <pyrfectpup@earthlink.net>
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One reason that I'd like to learn how to draft
patterns is to replicate the sari top that was
made for me when I was 16. A friend of my mom's
needed occasional help, and as a thank-you made me
a sari. For the top she took a few measurements
*(see below), then began to directly draw on the
sari top material with a pencil. The end result
fit wonderfully, and though I was told that it
could be worn w/o a bra, as it was made to full
that capacity, as a very modest 16 year old, I
didn't try it then. However, over the years (until
I could no longer fit into that top), I did try it
as a top and bra all in one and it was very
comfortable. My goal is to replicate the general
idea, but without the sleeves. Instead of thin
(and often hurtful) shoulder straps, there would
be sort of tank top straps. It would also dip down
some in the front and back, but not so far
(especially in the back) that the material could
cut into my back shoulder and hurt. It would also
not end at the bottom just below the bust, which
often causes more binding and (was it on this
list) maybe problems with lymph nodes?

* neck to edge of sleeve top
- should seam to tip of breast (for each side /
breast)
- from tip of L breast to tip of R breast
- overall bust measurements (above the bust; at
the widest point; just below the bust)
- diameter of arm

--
Cecilia
knitting a new paradigm in southern California
pyrfectpup@earthlink.net
http://home.earthlink.net/~pyrfectpup/



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman Toga how to's
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Heather Rose Jones wrote:

> At 11:33 AM -0700 7/7/03, Cecilia wrote:
>
> >There is a technique where you take a circle (such as the outside of a wheel)
> >and weave a circular piece (often a rug). You first put in your warps, in the
> >same manner as hubs would go if it were a wagon wheel. Then you begin weaving
> >from the middle, going to the outside. As the warps become farther a part, you
> >add in new warps. I see no reason why this technique couldn't be adapted to a
> >semi-circle by beginning with a semi-circle.
>
> I can't see this working for anything larger than, say, a hand-sized
> piece, unless you were adding new warps as you go along (as in some
> basketry techniques).  I've never heard of using this sort of
> technique for large pieces of fabric.

What I wrote at the top was a bit rambling. Anyway -- as noted in the passage that
should now appear in italics and underlined, you do add warps along the way. After
your circle is woven so that the initial warps are now further apart (as the spokes
to a wheel would be), you take more of your warp yarn and begin attaching it at each
new point by weaving back into the middle a bit more, then extending that new warp
back to the outside of the circle.

This technique works well with rugs that are made of relatively thick warp and weft
yarns. To change it so that a semi-circle were the end result, would not be that
difficult. What I see problematic, is to get a fabric that would work as a toga,
much thinner yarns would be used and the process would be very time consuming - as
compared to a "straight" fabric loom that had a rigid heddle or two heddles.
--
Cecilia
knitting a new paradigm in southern California
pyrfectpup@earthlink.net
http://home.earthlink.net/~pyrfectpup/

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> This technique works well with rugs that are made of relatively thick warp
and weft
> yarns. To change it so that a semi-circle were the end result, would not
be that
> difficult. What I see problematic, is to get a fabric that would work as a
toga,
> much thinner yarns would be used and the process would be very time
consuming - as
> compared to a "straight" fabric loom that had a rigid heddle or two
heddles.
>
I can't see how this technique would give an appropriate drape for a toga.


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Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:

> Hi,
> Would any of you know of a nice cloche hat pattern I could buy? Or would one
> of you have one and be nice enough to send me a copy (I'll pay for it, don't
> worry)?
> I've seen some on eBay but they always go for 30$+ US... once converted to
> CDN dollars, it's not worth it anymore...

What type of construction? Sewn? Crochet? Knit? I've seen free patterns for
crocheted and knit cloche hat patterns. In fact, I knit a really darling cloche
hat out of one of these patterns. This particular pattern is great in that you
don't need a particular type of yarn. You make a sample with your yarn, then use
a calculating system to determine your own pattern. The url for that hat is

http://knitting.about.com/library/blmiterhat.htm

If anyone wants to see a picture of my daughter's hat, I can scan it and e-mail
it.

--
Cecilia
knitting a new paradigm in southern California
pyrfectpup@earthlink.net
http://home.earthlink.net/~pyrfectpup/



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Cecilia wrote:

> What I wrote at the top was a bit rambling. Anyway -- as noted in the passage that
> should now appear in italics and underlined, you do add warps along the way.

OK, so much for computer technology - What I'd had configured on my computer did not
appear on the list copy. The passage referred to above is the 4th and 5th line of what I
wrote.
--
Cecilia
knitting a new paradigm in southern California
pyrfectpup@earthlink.net
http://home.earthlink.net/~pyrfectpup/



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Heather wrote:
> If one were weaving a toga to shape on the loom, it would be done 
> similarly -- you'd simply ignore warp threads that weren't part of 
> the shape you were trying to create.  Keep in mind that these looms 
> would have involved passing the shuttle through the shed by hand -- 
> no flying shuttles! -- so you aren't slowing the process down by 
> doing only partial wefts.

Presumably you then have to cut it off the loom and trim the remaining
warps down close to the woven area.  How do you then stop it from
fraying?

K.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cloche hat pattern?
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 16:31:55 -0400
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This site has a couple of cloche patterns that are $14:

http://www.longago.com/hat.html

Good luck!

Teena

----- Original Message -----
From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2003 4:08 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Cloche hat pattern?


> Hi,
> Would any of you know of a nice cloche hat pattern I could buy? Or would
one
> of you have one and be nice enough to send me a copy (I'll pay for it,
don't
> worry)?
> I've seen some on eBay but they always go for 30$+ US... once converted to
> CDN dollars, it's not worth it anymore...
> Thanks!
> Audrey
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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>

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul  7 16:37:54 2003
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 	16th cent ladies cap with peals and flowers on black
	velvet
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Just search for Frauenleben in sterreich on the internet and found this.
http://www.frauen.spoe.at/body_topics_100j_eroeffnung_ega.htm
I am not sure if it is the same.
Here is the Schlo Kirchstetten
http://www.schloss-kirchstetten.at/
Vernissage
http://www.vernissageverlag.de/
Maby they know more aboud the portrait

Greetings,
        Deredere

Cassandra Greer wrote:

>Whoops let me chance the heading!
>
>  
>
>>Hi all!
>>
>>I found this cool portrait of a 16th lady with a really cool pearl and
>>flower and what looks like black velvet cap. Does anyone have any idea where
>>the original is etc?
>>
>>http://homepage.mac.com/cassandragreer/question.html
>>
>>Thanks!
>>
>>Cass :)
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
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>>
>>    
>>
>
>_______________________________________________
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>  
>

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul  7 16:43:05 2003
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Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 13:45:34 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Lynn Downward <LDownward@chori.org>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cloche hat pattern?
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Hi,
For cloche patterns you could try Vintage Pattern Lending Library. Go to:

http://www.vpll.org/

and find "Hats, All Eras" on the contents list on the left.  They 
have several different cloche patterns.  I didn't look at them 
because I'm not certain what exactly you're looking for. You can buy 
the patterns or borrow them if you're a member of the library.

Alternately, a straw or felt cloche is easy to make from an old hat 
or a 'hood', a hat blank, lacking a better definition.  You use 
water, heat and steam and form the hat to a mold, even a styrofoam 
head, to make what you want. It's easier than you can possibly 
imagine.  Then comes the fun - decoration!

I remeber reading something in a magazine from the 20's where the 
writer says something to the effect of, "No lady would ever show her 
eyebrows in a cloche," so remember to pull the hat way down in the 
front.

LynnD


>Hi,
>Would any of you know of a nice cloche hat pattern I could buy? Or 
>would one of you have one and be nice enough to send me a copy (I'll 
>pay for it, don't worry)?
>I've seen some on eBay but they always go for 30$+ US... once 
>converted to CDN dollars, it's not worth it anymore...
>Thanks!
>Audrey
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE*  
>http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
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-- 
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From: Lynne Connolly <lynneconnolly@ntlworld.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Six Wives of Henry VIII
In-Reply-To: <52162FC0-B0B6-11D7-90CE-0003934DD4B0@elizabethanlady.com>
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At 13:05 07/07/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>For the best "Six Wives" history ever, I suggest reading Alison Weir's 
>"The Six Wives of Henry VIII".  It's her best historical biography she's 
>written, no doubt because she felt some personal connection to each of the 
>wives.  I'm reading her newest book "Mary Queen of Scots and the Murder of 
>Lord Darnley" and it's slower going than "Six Wives", but loaded with 
>research.  I think that tends to be her weakness, actually... She's so 
>well researched that getting all that information into one book is 
>difficult without it being on the dry side.

She made a lot of mistakes in her book on the Princes in the Tower. She's 
not well regarded over here. But I haven't read the Henry VIII book, I 
stopped after the Princes one. The reviews have been poor for the Mary 
Queen of Scots one.


Lynne Connolly, GSOLFOT
Award winning Historical Romance author.
The Richard and Rose books from <http://www.novelbooksinc.com/>Novelbooks Inc.
YORKSHIRE, DEVONSHIRE and now VENICE
VANESSA from <http://www.awe-struck.net/>Awe-Struck books
http://www.geocities.com/lynne_connolly2001/  

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul  7 16:43:43 2003
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From: Cecilia <pyrfectpup@earthlink.net>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman Toga how to's
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David wrote:

> > This technique works well with rugs that are made of relatively thick warp
> and weft
> > yarns. To change it so that a semi-circle were the end result, would not
> be that
> > difficult. What I see problematic, is to get a fabric that would work as a
> toga,
> > much thinner yarns would be used and the process would be very time
> consuming - as
> > compared to a "straight" fabric loom that had a rigid heddle or two
> heddles.
> >
> I can't see how this technique would give an appropriate drape for a toga.

Not knowing how a toga should drape, I can only observe that resulting fabric
would be some type of hybrid between material cut on the grain and material cut
on the bias. Since the only samples that I've seen of this are rugs, and since
rugs don't do a whole lot of draping <grin>, I don't have real experience in how
it would drape.
--
Cecilia
knitting a new paradigm in southern California
pyrfectpup@earthlink.net
http://home.earthlink.net/~pyrfectpup/



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Subject: [h-cost] Lady Jane
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I've found the thread of corsets extremely interesting and really love the 
idea of a modern corset.  If anyone puts anytime into this, I'd love to read 
about your results.

Well I decided to rent Lady Jane over the long holiday weekend.  I was 
really struck by how slouchy HCB was!  I don't understand how she could have 
such poor posture.  Was she not wearing a corset?  Was it just way too 
loose?  I could sometimes see boning under the blue bodice she had one for 
most of the movie.  I was trying to figure out if the bodice was boned or if 
she had a corset on...

Either way, there were some very beautiful dresses to be seen and I also 
really enjoyed looking at the men's clothing.  I find that I often overlook 
men's clothing, unintentionally.

I did notice the bodice height and have new plans to make a new corset 
pattern and corset so that I can experiment with this neckline.  I really 
like it better then the Ren Faire Wench types.

I just made  a really tough decision...  I have decided to take a leave of 
absence from school.  I am newly pregnant and so exhausted that I can't get 
energy up to do my homework, let alone sit in class until 10pm every night 
after working a full day.  I'm really trying to be careful as to avoid 
miscarriage (again).  So now that I've come to grips with this, I am 
starting to feel like I will actually get some personal sewing done again!  
I'm kind of excited about that.  Maybe this won't be the best time to revamp 
my corset pattern, but I can definitely give it some serious thought!

Anyway, great thread.  And as always... I LOVE THIS LIST!!!!!

:)  jessica

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>, h-costume@indra.com
From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lady Jane
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>Well I decided to rent Lady Jane over the long holiday weekend.  I was 
>really struck by how slouchy HCB was!  I don't understand how she could have 
>such poor posture.  

She does have terrible posture, but it was particularly bad in this movie.
I think she was doing it intentionally as part of her character, but it
sure was annoying.  I kept wanting to yell, "Get you chin off your chest!". 


Margo

"One Tough Costumer"

www.margospatterns.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lady Jane
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In a message dated 7/7/03 5:16:31 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
margo@margospatterns.com writes:

> She does have terrible posture, but it was particularly bad in this movie.
> I think she was doing it intentionally as part of her character, but it
> sure was annoying.  I kept wanting to yell, "Get you chin off your chest!". 

And I have this sudden image of Margo sitting in front of the TV in full 
Tudor or Elizabethan regalia shouting "Get your chin off your chest!" while sewing 
embellishment bits onto a forepart, and then prodding the needle at the TV 
threateningly!

Christine
Having way too much fun thinking of that!
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From: "Dawn Wood" <dawn@agesofelegance.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Washing linen
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 22:28:26 +0100
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actually she's a very overworked and underpaid costume maker who is always
having pistols pointed at her LOL
Dawn
Ages Of Elegance makers of Historical reproduction Clothing, Uniforms and
Bridalwear
 http://www.agesofelegance.co.uk 0113 277 6716
> >
> >? I thought Dawn was a dishwashing detergent.
>
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 23:41:30 +0200
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Subject: [h-cost] feeling ignernt
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Ladies, and gents..............
Pheeeewwwwwwwwwww.
I am so sorry about the stupid things i said and the poor language i used
the other day.
The topic was so frisky, and i was tired after a long day at work, and i was
carried away about the frisky language.
As a matter of fact i had such a huge laugh that i actually poored myself an
xxxxl large gin, with no tonic and no ice. and i got carried away.
Please ladies and please gents.  I hope you will forget the stupid things i
said...............(please)
Bjarne who has recovered again from that large gin.
Anyway it was ok to do, because i have a holliday now, and i finished the
dress.....................

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <146.14ca5528.2c376f0e@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] epiphany
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 23:48:32 +0200
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I love making ruffs, I love how they look, i dont wear them, love making
them love love love :-)

I love making corsets, I love how they looks, I dont wear them, Love making
them, love love love..

But i absolutely hate binding the tabs with bias tape absolutely hate hate
hate..................

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: <LoreleiMorte@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2003 2:00 AM
Subject: [h-cost] epiphany


> I hate making ruffs. I love how they look, I like wearin' 'em. hate making
> them. Hate. Hate. Hate.
>
> Thank you.
>
> That is all.
>
> -Sarra Wryght
> Elizabethan Dress Journals:
http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/index.html
> Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 21:49:56 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] searching for pictures of sleeves
References: <006301c34488$9f0f31c0$210110ac@TEENALAPTOP>
 <BB2F44C4.1A255%cassandra@greer.de>
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I really hope someone finds it!  I find it interesting, it looks like a 
higher cap than most of a similar period, many of them look flat to the 
head but this is more vertical.  And I love the way her hair is rolled 
with the flowers at the front just peeking over.

Jean

Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de> wrote
>Hi all!
>
>I found this cool portrait of a 16th lady with a really cool pearl and
>flower and what looks like black velvet cap. Does anyone have any idea where
>the original is etc?
>
>http://homepage.mac.com/cassandragreer/question.html
>
>Thanks!
>
>Cass :)
>
>_______________________________________________
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] feeling ignernt
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        Gosh, I wish I had saved you message now to see what you are
apologizing for.  I don't remember anything bad enough to worry about. 
We all love you Bjarne - gin or no gin.  

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Feelin' ignernt
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 23:50:34 +0200
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Absolutely!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Red head here!!!!!!!!!

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Carol Kocian" <aquazoo@patriot.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2003 7:16 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Feelin' ignernt


> Bjarne wrote,
> >May i take up another poll?
> >In the sum,mertime?
> >
> >Do you prefer cut or uncut?
> 
>       This being a costume list, I assume Bjarne must be asking about 
> clothing cut & sewn to fit, versus uncut fabric that's draped about 
> the body.  Like a quick and dirty toga, sari, kilt, etc.  Right?  For 
> summer, yes, a draped, nonrestricting garment can be more comfortable.
> 
>       -Carol
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From: "Stephen Bergdahl" <madlystitching@earthlink.net>
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Don't worry Bjarne

I for one was not offended in anyway.  You always hear about the locker room
comments of men.  Well women at a stitch & bitch can be just as bad.  Trust
me I been to both.

Stephen

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2003 2:41 PM
Subject: [h-cost] feeling ignernt


> Ladies, and gents..............
> Pheeeewwwwwwwwwww.
> I am so sorry about the stupid things i said and the poor language i used
> the other day.
> The topic was so frisky, and i was tired after a long day at work, and i
was
> carried away about the frisky language.
> As a matter of fact i had such a huge laugh that i actually poored myself
an
> xxxxl large gin, with no tonic and no ice. and i got carried away.
> Please ladies and please gents.  I hope you will forget the stupid things
i
> said...............(please)
> Bjarne who has recovered again from that large gin.
> Anyway it was ok to do, because i have a holliday now, and i finished the
> dress.....................
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman Toga how to's
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In a message dated 7/7/2003 4:30:30 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
skud@infotrope.net writes:


> Presumably you then have to cut it off the loom and trim the remaining
> warps down close to the woven area.  How do you then stop it from
> fraying?
> 

There's nothing to stop you from hemming it.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman Toga how to's
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2003 7:48 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman Toga how to's


> In a message dated 7/7/2003 4:30:30 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
> skud@infotrope.net writes:
> 
> 
> > Presumably you then have to cut it off the loom and trim the remaining
> > warps down close to the woven area.  How do you then stop it from
> > fraying?
> > 
> 
> There's nothing to stop you from hemming it.
> _______________________________________________
>
Or weaving the trim into the cut edge. 
Claire
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul  7 18:22:52 2003
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 00:24:28 +0200
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Subject: [h-cost] Caraco jacket
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Anyway, ladies, gents. i would be very pleased to have some feed back of a
question 18th century.
I plan to make a lady a Caraco Jacket and a skirt.
I have made the corset to fit, very  nice with horisontal bones over the
bust to make extra shape. What are the rules for a Caraco Jacket. Should
this follow the seams cf. side cb. or could a Caraco Jacket have a stomacher
front, laced and a gathered frill round the waistline to the center back?
Or is it like this example Janet Arnold shows in Patterns of Fashion where
there are pleats in the side and center back?
Is it possible to use a little fantasy to make a Caraco Jacket my way?

Feed back much apreciated!



Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul  7 18:36:27 2003
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From: "Betsy Marshall" <betsy@softwareinnovation.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] feeling ignernt
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 17:30:50 -0500
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Said what? I don't recall being offended...
Betsy
(Might be time for a lie-down, though)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2003 4:42 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] feeling ignernt

Ladies, and gents..............
Pheeeewwwwwwwwwww.
I am so sorry about the stupid things i said and the poor language i
used
the other day.
The topic was so frisky, and i was tired after a long day at work, and i
was
carried away about the frisky language.
As a matter of fact i had such a huge laugh that i actually poored
myself an
xxxxl large gin, with no tonic and no ice. and i got carried away.
Please ladies and please gents.  I hope you will forget the stupid
things i
said...............(please)
Bjarne who has recovered again from that large gin.
Anyway it was ok to do, because i have a holliday now, and i finished
the
dress.....................

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul  7 18:43:52 2003
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cloche hat pattern?
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Oh gosh... this is an amazing place... Wow...
I don't even want to start looking through that, I'll want to buy the whole
collection!

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lynn Downward" <LDownward@chori.org>

> Hi,
> For cloche patterns you could try Vintage Pattern Lending Library. Go to:
>
> http://www.vpll.org/
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul  7 18:53:39 2003
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Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 15:56:04 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Lynn Downward <LDownward@chori.org>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cloche hat pattern?
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They're quick and much cheaper if you're a member. Memberships are 
cheap and if you rent enough patterns per year you save enough for 
next year's membership. You can either buy the pattern outright or 
borrow the pattern, make your own copy and send it back, pricing is 
listed for each.

Lynn
Satisfied customer, although they're in Oakland CA where I live.

>Oh gosh... this is an amazing place... Wow...
>I don't even want to start looking through that, I'll want to buy the whole
>collection!
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Lynn Downward" <LDownward@chori.org>
>
>>  Hi,
>>  For cloche patterns you could try Vintage Pattern Lending Library. Go to:
>>
>>  http://www.vpll.org/
>_______________________________________________
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-- 
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Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2003 18:58:06 -0500
From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] searching for pictures of sleeves
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michaela wrote:

> No, it probably is sewn on given the sheer number of gold on white striped
> sleeves I've come across in recent searches of late 16thC clothing. They all
> seem to have that vertical line down the cf of the sleeve too.

The vertical line is trim sewn on to hide the seam down the front of the 
sleeve (it's a two-piece sleeve with seams down the front and back). 
It's likely that there's trim hiding the seam in the back as well. 
Putting trim on to hide seams is quite common--you can often see it on 
shoulder seams as well.  Once you start looking for it, you'll see it 
all over the place in portraits.

There are a number of examples of ladies wearing this style of sleeve in 
Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd.

Cheers,
Melanie Schuessler
http://www.faucet.net/costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Six Wives of Henry VIII
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From: Sarah <sarah@elizabethanlady.com>
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> She made a lot of mistakes in her book on the Princes in the Tower. 
> She's not well regarded over here. But I haven't read the Henry VIII 
> book, I stopped after the Princes one. The reviews have been poor for 
> the Mary Queen of Scots one.

I didn't care for the "Princes in the Tower" to be honest.  Her shorter 
books, like "Princes", and "The Children of Henry VIII" don't make for 
satisfactory reading, honestly, as they're too short and too pat for 
the actual history involved.  My main beef with both those books was 
that it seemed as though she was trying to find information that didn't 
exist about a really vague topic to begin with.  And "War of the Roses" 
was absolutely painful to read!  I couldn't finish it because it just 
dragged on and on... But then, I'm not emotionally invested in that 
particular era, so that could have something to do with it.

But "Eleanor of Aquitaine" and "The Six Wives of Henry VIII" are both 
quite thorough, interesting, well written books.  She really hit her 
stride with "Six Wives" and I keep expecting that same level of 
workmanship with her more recent books, but they're still falling short 
of that.  "The Murder of Lord Darnley" is good, though.  I've only made 
it half way through, as it is slow reading, but it's more accurate in 
the depiction of Mary than any other book I've read on the subject 
(which are either highly flattering, or highly critical.  This one is 
neither.  It's just Mary, damned if she did and damned if she didn't).

Most historical biographers who tackle female subjects have a horrible 
propensity towards either deifying them as saints, or trouncing them as 
whores.  I can't stand Starkey because of his way of turning everything 
into some titillating piece of juicy gossip.  Ugh.  It just irritates 
me.  But Weir got it right with "Six Wives" as far as I'm concerned.  
None of those women were stupid, and none of them were saints, either.

Sarah

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Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 23:03:46 -0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman Toga how to's
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AlbertCat@aol.com said:
> There's nothing to stop you from hemming it.

     But then why bother weaving it as an oval - why not just cut & hem to 
shape?

     I handwove fabric for some Roman cloaks, and we decided to cut them as 
ovals with the back a bit longer than the front.  The sides were shorter for 
better access for arms & hands.  We made the hoods out of the leftover fabric.  
In one area, I butted the fulled wool and stitched it together, than fulled it 
a bit more to hide the stitches.  It worked!

     -Carol

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul  7 19:08:32 2003
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From: sekhmet <sekhmet42@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] dress form help!
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Hi everyone, I've been lurking for a couple months,
really enjoying the various discussions. I'm hoping
someone can help me with my dress form. 

I've got many years of experience sewing modern
clothes from flat patterns, but I've never done any
draping or used a dress form. I need to make a Regency
costume for September, and I'm starting with the
corset. A friend very kindly gave me her old dress
form so I don't have to try and fit a back lacing
corset on myself!

She is so skinny that she just made the form as small
as possible. I need expand the panels for it to fit
me. It's an old Tru-Shape Singer with slotted metal
slides and butterfly nuts inside to adjust the pieces
up/down and in/out.

The problem is that as soon as I get one measurement
set, moving another panel alters it. How should I
start? I originally set the bust, waist and hip
horizontal measurements and then tried to get the
vertical measurements. Since that didn't work, I'm
wondering if I should work top to bottom, doing both
vertical and horizontal measurements on the way, or
just give up and bring the panels in tight the way
they were and padding it until it matches me. Or, any
other suggestions? 

I can't afford to buy a better dress form right now
and none of my friends have the patience or interest
to hang around to lace me while I sew and fit and sew
and fit on myself. No family within 2000 miles. Last
boyfriend is now ex-. So I really need this dress form
to work.

Any suggestions gratefully received.

Thanks! Irene

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul  7 19:23:31 2003
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From: LoreleiMorte@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 19:22:44 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Six Wives of Henry VIII
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In a message dated 7/7/2003 1:44:59 PM Central Standard Time, 
ailith@neo.rr.com writes:

> On July 16 and 23, PBS will be airing a 2 part documentary on The Six Wives 
> of Henry VIII from the wives' points of view. Is this the one that was 
> broadcast a while back in the UK? Dr. David Starkey is the host.
> 

Hot damn! Hopefully, my lame-o local PBS station won't decide to air a 
telethon or the national Bingo Finals or something....

-Sarra Wryght 

Elizabethan Dress Journals: http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/index.html
Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] dress form help!
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 01:32:37 +0200
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Hi Irene.
Dont dispare...............
You have plenty of time.
May i ask you how yourself is shaped? Are you skinny two? or how are you
shaped?
In most cases it is not nescessary to have a corset for a regency dress.
You could use a push up bra............... that would be very nice.
And then you just have to meassure your bust, and underbust and the meassure
to the ground to make such a Regency Dress.
That would be very nice!
I am sorry i could not help you otherwise, but i dont think i understood
your meening.

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: "sekhmet" <sekhmet42@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2003 1:07 AM
Subject: [h-cost] dress form help!


> Hi everyone, I've been lurking for a couple months,
> really enjoying the various discussions. I'm hoping
> someone can help me with my dress form.
>
> I've got many years of experience sewing modern
> clothes from flat patterns, but I've never done any
> draping or used a dress form. I need to make a Regency
> costume for September, and I'm starting with the
> corset. A friend very kindly gave me her old dress
> form so I don't have to try and fit a back lacing
> corset on myself!
>
> She is so skinny that she just made the form as small
> as possible. I need expand the panels for it to fit
> me. It's an old Tru-Shape Singer with slotted metal
> slides and butterfly nuts inside to adjust the pieces
> up/down and in/out.
>
> The problem is that as soon as I get one measurement
> set, moving another panel alters it. How should I
> start? I originally set the bust, waist and hip
> horizontal measurements and then tried to get the
> vertical measurements. Since that didn't work, I'm
> wondering if I should work top to bottom, doing both
> vertical and horizontal measurements on the way, or
> just give up and bring the panels in tight the way
> they were and padding it until it matches me. Or, any
> other suggestions?
>
> I can't afford to buy a better dress form right now
> and none of my friends have the patience or interest
> to hang around to lace me while I sew and fit and sew
> and fit on myself. No family within 2000 miles. Last
> boyfriend is now ex-. So I really need this dress form
> to work.
>
> Any suggestions gratefully received.
>
> Thanks! Irene
>
> __________________________________
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Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 23:51:08 -0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] dress form help!
From: <aquazoo@patriot.net>
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     Don't despair!

     First of all, you don't fit a corset to yourself, it moves things around 
to bring you to the right shape.  To check how it works, you will need to try 
it on.  The problem is usually you don't see the problem until it's boned and 
nearly finished!  If a similar-sized friend has one, it's great if you can try 
it on and then use the same pattern & know how to alter it.

     Next, those sliding panel dress forms are a pain!  For Regency, however, 
you just need the correct shoulders, bust, underbust, and height.  Ignore the 
waist & hips.

     I worked in a costume shop with the Wolf forms, which are not adjustable.  
We would pick the closest size and then pad it to the actors shape.  This is a 
normal and legitimate approach.  We don't use the forms for actual fitting, but 
to check the way something hangs, position trims, let a skirt hang before 
hemming, etc.

     It's not impossible to fit yourself, only slow & tedious.  I find I have 
to re-pin several times until I get it, but I get it.  A rear-view mirror is 
necessary.  Have you checked the list to see if there is someone else nearby?  
Even a non-historic seamstress can be helpful for fitting.  Or simply a friend 
who can follow instructions.

     One final thing I've heard about Regency gowns (and learned it on this 
list) - if your stomach pooches at all, don't attach the skirt at your ribcage.  
Attach it to the bodice a little ways out under the bust.  This clears your 
stomach and avoids the pregnant look.

     -Carol


sekhmet <sekhmet42@yahoo.com> said:
> The problem is that as soon as I get one measurement
> set, moving another panel alters it. How should I
> start? I originally set the bust, waist and hip
> horizontal measurements and then tried to get the
> vertical measurements. Since that didn't work, I'm
> wondering if I should work top to bottom, doing both
> vertical and horizontal measurements on the way, or
> just give up and bring the panels in tight the way
> they were and padding it until it matches me. Or, any
> other suggestions? 

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To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 16:43:33 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Six Wives of Henry VIII
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Status: RO

There's an accompanying book as well. Dry, dull, and riddled with "my
opinion." How anyone could make this period of history dull is beyond me.
:/

Arlys, mundanely an MA in History

> No, it was on Channel 5 last year. David Starkey is not my favourite 
> academic, and the series was a great disappointment to me. Very 
> simplistic, 
> repeating some of the old myths that have been discarded by other 
> scholars. 
> Definitely the old view.
> 
> 
> Lynne Connolly, GSOLFOT
> Award winning Historical Romance author.
> The Richard and Rose books from 
> <http://www.novelbooksinc.com/>Novelbooks Inc.
> YORKSHIRE, DEVONSHIRE and now VENICE
> VANESSA from <http://www.awe-struck.net/>Awe-Struck books
> http://www.geocities.com/lynne_connolly2001/  


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman Toga how to's
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In a message dated 7/7/2003 7:07:49 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
aquazoo@patriot.net writes:


> There's nothing to stop you from hemming it.
> 
>      But then why bother weaving it as an oval - why not just cut & hem to 
> shape?
> 
> 

I dunno? You didn't ask that.  :-P
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>
> <big grin>  I'm just impressed I found this book before you did!  I was
> joking with someone that you could charge people tons of money for a
> weekend with free access to your library, a scanner, and a CD burner.

Hm, idea...

though my husband is convinced that, if I post lists of my books on the
internet, one night a crazed costuming fiend is going to crawl through the
sewing room window and make off with them all...

Drea
 >
> (sing with me) I love books, books love me, we're a happy family...
>
> Melanie Schuessler
> http://www.faucet.net/costume
>
> _______________________________________________
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] KWCS / KWAR Announcement
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*snort*
I have this image of a list-only competition, involving the fanciest
embroidered "H" at KWCS....
--sue "just call me Hester" clemenger

Beteena Paradise wrote:
> 
> Are we going to wear little "h"s so we know each other?
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Marc Carlson" <marccarlson20@hotmail.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2003 2:35 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] KWCS / KWAR Announcement
> 
> > >From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
> > >I'll be there (obviously!). Anyone else? I'd love to meet some people
> from
> > >the list...
> >
> > Rumor has it I'm supposed to attend.
> >
> > Marc
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
> > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >
> 
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From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lady Jane
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I seem to recall some distinct slouching in "Elizabeth," too.
I think my favorite outfits in "Lady Jane" were the hunting outfits her
parents wore....
Speaking of bodice heights, I was indulging in my copy of "Dangerous
Beauty" and noticed in one scene, at least, that the mother's bodice
was  quite modest (no TOAP), while the daughter's was not (definite
TOAP).  Next time I watch the movie, I'll see if it's a trend. 
Certainly not something I noticed in previous watchings.....
Best of luck, Jessica, with this new pregnancy.  I think it's very, very
smart to figure out your limits and stick to them!
--sue

jessica stier wrote:
> 
> I've found the thread of corsets extremely interesting and really love the
> idea of a modern corset.  If anyone puts anytime into this, I'd love to read
> about your results.
> 
> Well I decided to rent Lady Jane over the long holiday weekend.  I was
> really struck by how slouchy HCB was!  I don't understand how she could have
> such poor posture.  Was she not wearing a corset?  Was it just way too
> loose?  I could sometimes see boning under the blue bodice she had one for
> most of the movie.  I was trying to figure out if the bodice was boned or if
> she had a corset on...
> 
> Either way, there were some very beautiful dresses to be seen and I also
> really enjoyed looking at the men's clothing.  I find that I often overlook
> men's clothing, unintentionally.
> 
> I did notice the bodice height and have new plans to make a new corset
> pattern and corset so that I can experiment with this neckline.  I really
> like it better then the Ren Faire Wench types.
> 
> I just made  a really tough decision...  I have decided to take a leave of
> absence from school.  I am newly pregnant and so exhausted that I can't get
> energy up to do my homework, let alone sit in class until 10pm every night
> after working a full day.  I'm really trying to be careful as to avoid
> miscarriage (again).  So now that I've come to grips with this, I am
> starting to feel like I will actually get some personal sewing done again!
> I'm kind of excited about that.  Maybe this won't be the best time to revamp
> my corset pattern, but I can definitely give it some serious thought!
> 
> Anyway, great thread.  And as always... I LOVE THIS LIST!!!!!
> 
> :)  jessica
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Italian portraits 1550-1570
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In a message dated 7/7/2003 7:27:48 PM Central Standard Time, drea@nospam 
writes:

> though my husband is convinced that, if I post lists of my books on the
> internet, one night a crazed costuming fiend is going to crawl through the
> sewing room window and make off with them all...
> 

Drat! My feindish plot revealed! Curses!

-Sarra Wryght
Elizabethan Dress Journals: http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/index.html
Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul  7 20:49:56 2003
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Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2003 18:51:13 -0600
From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] epiphany
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Hey, Bjarne...you make me a corset, and I'll deal with the bias tape!
<g>
--sue

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> 
> I love making ruffs, I love how they look, i dont wear them, love making
> them love love love :-)
> 
> I love making corsets, I love how they looks, I dont wear them, Love making
> them, love love love..
> 
> But i absolutely hate binding the tabs with bias tape absolutely hate hate
> hate..................
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <LoreleiMorte@aol.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2003 2:00 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] epiphany
> 
> > I hate making ruffs. I love how they look, I like wearin' 'em. hate making
> > them. Hate. Hate. Hate.
> >
> > Thank you.
> >
> > That is all.
> >
> > -Sarra Wryght
> > Elizabethan Dress Journals:
> http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/index.html
> > Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> 
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul  7 20:56:42 2003
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] epiphany
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Ok Sue.
What do i get in stead?
What kind of Corset do you want?
17th. 18th 19th?

That is a deal if i get something back!

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2003 2:51 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] epiphany


> Hey, Bjarne...you make me a corset, and I'll deal with the bias tape!
> <g>
> --sue
>
> Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> >
> > I love making ruffs, I love how they look, i dont wear them, love making
> > them love love love :-)
> >
> > I love making corsets, I love how they looks, I dont wear them, Love
making
> > them, love love love..
> >
> > But i absolutely hate binding the tabs with bias tape absolutely hate
hate
> > hate..................
> >
> > Bjarne
> >
> > Leif og Bjarne Drews
> > www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> >
> > http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <LoreleiMorte@aol.com>
> > To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2003 2:00 AM
> > Subject: [h-cost] epiphany
> >
> > > I hate making ruffs. I love how they look, I like wearin' 'em. hate
making
> > > them. Hate. Hate. Hate.
> > >
> > > Thank you.
> > >
> > > That is all.
> > >
> > > -Sarra Wryght
> > > Elizabethan Dress Journals:
> > http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/index.html
> > > Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
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>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] dress form help!
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----- Original Message -----
From: <aquazoo@patriot.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2003 7:51 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] dress form help!


[snip]
>      One final thing I've heard about Regency gowns (and learned it on
this
> list) - if your stomach pooches at all, don't attach the skirt at your
ribcage.
> Attach it to the bodice a little ways out under the bust.  This clears
your
> stomach and avoids the pregnant look.
>
>      -Carol

Yes, when I made my first Regency gown, I did the skirt gathered equally all
the way around and hated it. I had a much flatter stomach then too! I ended
up doing it over with the front totally flat and the pleating or gathering
(I have used both and prefer more of a pleated look) on the back. It gave it
a much cleaner line and looked more like the images I have seen. It was much
more flattering too!

Teena

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 03:15:31 +0200
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Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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> Well I decided to rent Lady Jane over the long holiday weekend.  I was
> really struck by how slouchy HCB was!  I don't understand how she
> could have such poor posture.  Was she not wearing a corset?  Was it
> just way too loose?  I could sometimes see boning under the blue
> bodice she had one for most of the movie.  I was trying to figure out
> if the bodice was boned or if she had a corset on...

She was wearing a corset and it fit very badly. That's why the bodice 
(especially when she was slouching) kept pushing up into armpits in 
what had to be an uncomfortable way. (The length of the corset was 
too long for one thing.) It wasn't because it was too loose (although 
she may have asked them to make it "looser" to be more comfortable, 
but if the corset length had been less, it would have probably been 
comfortable without that.)

> Either way, there were some very beautiful dresses to be seen and I
> also really enjoyed looking at the men's clothing.  I find that I
> often overlook men's clothing, unintentionally.

I thought that the basic design was pretty good for a lot of it, but 
the fitting was the problem with many of them (especially the ones on 
"Jane.")

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2003 18:20:39 -0700
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> No, it was on Channel 5 last year. David Starkey is not my favourite
> academic, and the series was a great disappointment to me. Very
> simplistic, repeating some of the old myths that have been discarded
> by other scholars. Definitely the old view.

Interesting since most of the things I've read by him have been full 
of documentation from original sources instead of the usual rehash 
from other history books. 

But then if it is a companion book rather than a scholarly one (like 
the other books by him) he might have had editing to take out the 
actual meat of the book so that it would be more palatable to the 
masses. (The quotes which he seems to use so liberally.)

Certainly his book on Elizabeth I was one of the best reads I've seen 
in a book of that sort in a long time. He had sources I've never seen 
in such a book (and that includes scholarly journals). He's also the 
editor of _The Inventories of Henry VIII_.

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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> though my husband is convinced that, if I post lists of my books on the
> internet, one night a crazed costuming fiend is going to crawl through the
> sewing room window and make off with them all...
>
> Drea
>  >


damn! Did someone rat me out?

Dianne

crossing Drea's house off the to-be-raided list...

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> From: Cecilia <pyrfectpup@earthlink.net>
> 
> One reason that I'd like to learn how to draft
> patterns is to replicate the sari top that was
> made for me when I was 16. A friend of my mom's
> needed occasional help, and as a thank-you made me
> a sari. For the top she took a few measurements
> *(see below), then began to directly draw on the
> sari top material with a pencil. The end result
> fit wonderfully, and though I was told that it
> could be worn w/o a bra, as it was made to full
> that capacity, as a very modest 16 year old, I
> didn't try it then. However, over the years (until
> I could no longer fit into that top), I did try it
> as a top and bra all in one and it was very
> comfortable. 

There is a choli pattern available from Fat Chance Belly Dance.
It's mostly instructions on _how_ to draft your measurements into
the pattern.  I followed their instructions and got a top that fit.
I can see one mistake I made, which was making the bottom piece of the
cup too short (the cup is made up of three triangular pieces).  But even
the first try came out okay.  The two pattern versions fit A-B cups and
C-D cups.  I'm a DD, and it took very little effort to make the pattern 
fit me.
http://fcbd.com/html/folkwear.html#choli

>My goal is to replicate the general
> idea, but without the sleeves. Instead of thin
> (and often hurtful) shoulder straps, there would
> be sort of tank top straps. It would also dip down
> some in the front and back, but not so far
> (especially in the back) that the material could
> cut into my back shoulder and hurt. It would also
> not end at the bottom just below the bust, which
> often causes more binding and (was it on this
> list) maybe problems with lymph nodes?

A wider band also gives more support than a narrow one, so there's
less binding and less of a feeling that all the weight is suspended
from the shoulder.  For the choli I made, I used a 3" band made of 
decorative fabric with reinforcing inside.  That was probably overkill,
but it made for a very comfortable top.  My two suggestions on modifying
the Fat Chance pattern are to use some sort of hook and eye fasteners
instead of ties in the back (there's a second tie that runs across the
back and keeps the shoulders from slipping, make that wider as well) and
pull the armscrye up higher if you're going to make it sleeveless.

[geez, now I have to go dig up that pattern.  Should've thought of that
one sooner]

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Subject: [h-cost] Help on late 18th-early 19th C undergarments
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Hi,

I'm delurking here in hopes that you all can help me.  I need clear 
descriptions, and/or decent sized photos so I can see details, of both men's 
and women's undergarments from the period 1790 to about 1815, as well as 
details of mens trousers.

Specifically, I need descriptions of what men wore under their shirts, vests 
and trousers to serve as underwear - what it was made of, how it fastened, 
how it was held up, etc. - and the 'fly' details of mens trousers/breeches 
within that time frame, and how they were held up.

I'm interested in the same sort of details for women of the same period, but 
it's the men's details that I'm really finding it hard to research.

Thanks very much,

Anne

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 05:01:47 +0200
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Subject: [h-cost] Caraco?
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Hello again.
Now here is the outfit i would like to make for the swedish lady.
U know the swedish society of Gustafs Skl prefer to dress very late 18th
century.
I found this fashion print. but what would you call this?
And do you think i have made it right CF? With buttons closings?
I want to make it in grey damask and blue underskirt.
Thanks for any advises
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/is_this_a_caraco_jacket.htm
Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help on late 18th-early 19th C undergarments
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 05:08:01 +0200
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Dear Anne Fairchild
I know from the book from Colonial Williamsburg that mens's underwear
trousers were made excactly the same way as their fall front breeches in
18th century. Except there was no fall front in the underwear.
Only...........
This is a waistband closing with buttons and nothing else.
There is an opening from the waistline and down to the legs, no buttons and
nothing

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Anne Fairchild" <anne_fairchild@hotmail.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2003 4:14 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Help on late 18th-early 19th C undergarments


> Hi,
>
> I'm delurking here in hopes that you all can help me.  I need clear
> descriptions, and/or decent sized photos so I can see details, of both
men's
> and women's undergarments from the period 1790 to about 1815, as well as
> details of mens trousers.
>
> Specifically, I need descriptions of what men wore under their shirts,
vests
> and trousers to serve as underwear - what it was made of, how it fastened,
> how it was held up, etc. - and the 'fly' details of mens trousers/breeches
> within that time frame, and how they were held up.
>
> I'm interested in the same sort of details for women of the same period,
but
> it's the men's details that I'm really finding it hard to research.
>
> Thanks very much,
>
> Anne
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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	Mon, 07 Jul 2003 20:29:47 PDT
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From: Tasha McGann <demontsegur@yahoo.com>
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If I see this message come through, I'll try to
respond to Robin's helpful comments about my website
(for the 4th time... bad timing for technical
difficulties!)

Thanks,
Tasha


=====
http://www.cottesimple.com
An exploration of European clothing and accessories from the late 14th/early 15th centuries.

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In a message dated 7/7/2003 10:59:55 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:


> And do you think i have made it right CF? With buttons closings?
> 

Buttons are big....literally and fashion-wise....then so button it up the 
front. Lacing is also popular....with the big neckerchief tucked down into the 
lacing.

Have you seen the film "Jefferson in Paris"? It is full of lovely gowns of 
this silhouette.
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cloche hat pattern?
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 23:37:55 -0400
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On Monday 07 July 2003 04:31 pm, Beteena Paradise wrote:
> This site has a couple of cloche patterns that are $14:
>
> http://www.longago.com/hat.html

AlterYears also carries the same DL Designs line of hat patterns.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
 
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul  7 23:49:52 2003
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Subject: [h-cost] Re:dress form help/regency
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Bjarne:
>Are you skinny two? or how are you shaped? In most
cases
> it is not nescessary to have a corset for a regency 
>dress.

I'm not skinny at all, I'm a US size 12. I do wear an
A cup, so I could probably get by with a push up bra.
But I'm going to be dancing in this dress, and I will
move better if I have everything as accurate as
possible from the skin out. I know it's all in my
head, but if I just wear a dress I will feel like I'm
"faking it", whereas if I have all the layers of
clothing, I'll relax and pay more attention to my
dancing than the clothes. 

Carol:
>If a similar-sized friend has one, it's great if you
> can try it on and then use the same pattern & know
>how to alter it.

Unfortunately everyone I've asked is either going the
WonderBra route or using corsets from other eras. I'm
on my own, I think.

>For Regency, however, you just need the correct
>shoulders, bust, underbust, and height.  Ignore the 
>waist & hips.

Ah, good point. That might be manageable with this
dress form. Eventually I want to get all the
measurements set up so I can use it for regular
clothes, but you're right, for now I don't need
everything.

>It's not impossible to fit yourself, only slow &
>tedious.  

OK, so how do you manage the lacing up the back? All I
could think of was to turn the back to the front, lace
it and then twist it back.

>One final thing I've heard about Regency gowns (and 
>learned it on this list) - if your stomach pooches at

>all, don't attach the skirt at your ribcage.  Attach 
>it to the bodice a little ways out under the bust.  
>This clears your stomach and avoids the pregnant
look.

Good to know, I'll keep it in mind if I haven't lost
my sanity and/or given up after the corset and
chemise. I haven't yet figured out if there's more
undergarments needed.

Thanks for the help, 

Irene

   


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Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2003 21:14:03 -0700
From: Maura Folsom <lady_m_de_j@sbcglobal.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cote step-by-step
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>
>
>Robin Netherton wrote:
>
>
>Maura Folsom wrote:
>> http://www.cottesimple.com/
>> 
>> She just put it up and it is admittedly a bit rough, but so far ti
>> looks great, IMO.
>  
>
>
> is it public yet, or is she beta-testing? 
>
She posted it to the Authentic-SCA list a few days ago. She didn't say 
anything about it being secret :)

>There are some things we do very differently.  
>
This is true of everyone, really. Thanks for going into so much detail!

>(I have the nagging feeling that medieval
>seamstresses were a bit more relaxed about some things that I tend to
>check obsessively.)
>
Very likely.  I do some things about patterning and sewing 
instinctively, since I have been sewing so long. That has its ups and 
downs - my approach to sewing is very hard to teach on anything but 
one-on-one basis.

>What does concern me is that some people may look at this and see it as a
>sort of a competition between "Robin's way" and "Tasha's way." That would
>be, I think, an oversimplification, and I don't think it's what Tasha
>would intend. 
>
I get this sort of thing from time to time in correspondence from people 
who have used and liked my 'bliaut' page, where they deride the work of 
others (pick any of the other five or so people who have widely known 
and used articles) while telling me how great my theory is (which it 
isn't -it's being HEAVILY revised for the next update). A good example 
of this is Arriane de Chateau-Michel's article on the pleated skirt type 
of bliaut. Hers isn't the only way, and neither is mine - both are 
supported by period artworks and descriptions. I really wish people 
didn't take what amounts to a well-researched guess as gospel truth. :P

>All in all, a good and comprehensive job, and one I'll probably refer
>people to if they want to see visuals. Though I have a feeling I'm going
>to have to start dealing with a lot of people who don't read carefully and
>base their opinions of *my* work on Tasha's experiment ...
>  
>
It really helped me get a better idea of your technique, although I was 
able to figure out that there were differences - nothing is ever the 
same second hand! I'm beginning to think that all costuming research 
amounts to a huge game of "telephone"...

>I haven't read Tasha's paper yet, though -- my limp little computer can't 
>handle the download.
>

Mine either. :/ I'm curious though!

Maura

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I just get a file not found error when I try!


>
>> I haven't read Tasha's paper yet, though -- my limp little computer 
>> can't handle the download.
>>
>
> Mine either. :/ I'm curious though!
>
> Maura
>
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Tasha, I had lots of problems this weekend posting *anything* to the
list--got several fatal errors.  Keep trying, though....
--sue

Tasha McGann wrote:
> 
> If I see this message come through, I'll try to
> respond to Robin's helpful comments about my website
> (for the 4th time... bad timing for technical
> difficulties!)
> 
> Thanks,
> Tasha
> 
> =====
> http://www.cottesimple.com
> An exploration of European clothing and accessories from the late 14th/early 15th centuries.
> 
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I was able to download it, although it sure took a while!  However, when
I tried to open the document, it kept crashing.  Some sort of error I
don't understand.  I'll try it at work tomorrow.
--sue

Maura Folsom wrote:
> 
> >
> >Robin Netherton wrote:
 
> >I haven't read Tasha's paper yet, though -- my limp little computer can't
> >handle the download.
> >
> 
> Mine either. :/ I'm curious though!
>
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No, but if you guys distract them, the "B" team's all ready for action!
<g>
--sue

Dianne & Greg Stucki wrote:
> 
> > though my husband is convinced that, if I post lists of my books on the
> > internet, one night a crazed costuming fiend is going to crawl through the
> > sewing room window and make off with them all...
> >
> > Drea
> >  >
> 
> damn! Did someone rat me out?
> 
> Dianne
> 
> crossing Drea's house off the to-be-raided list...
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman Toga how to's
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>> Presumably you then have to cut it off the loom and trim the remaining
>> warps down close to the woven area.  How do you then stop it from
>> fraying?
> 
> There's nothing to stop you from hemming it.

Well then, where on earth is the benefit to weaving it in the shape in
the first place, if you're just going to hem it?  It ends up almost
indistinguishable from a garment that's been cut from normal cloth.
Sure, cutting a T involves wastage of fabric, but that's what piecing is
for.  Sure, with the weaving-in-shape method you get a garment with a
couple less seams, but it hardly seems worth the effort.

K.
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Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 00:16:34 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cote step-by-step
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On Mon, 7 Jul 2003, Maura Folsom wrote:

> >(I have the nagging feeling that medieval
> >seamstresses were a bit more relaxed about some things that I tend to
> >check obsessively.)
> >
> Very likely.  I do some things about patterning and sewing 
> instinctively, since I have been sewing so long. That has its ups and 
> downs - my approach to sewing is very hard to teach on anything but 
> one-on-one basis.

Heh. I could have written that paragraph myself, and have on occasion. For
instance, I rarely use measurements any more (something that greatly
disturbs people who want to be able to chart things out). I tend to draw
sleeve caps by eye in a couple of strokes -- a friend who is an expert in
German Renaissance and Elizabethan said about this, "You scare me." And I
didn't realize for years that I do some of the side-seam fitting steps
literally with my eyes closed, till someone I was working on pointed it
out. At that point I finally gave up on the hope of writing down in some
sort of coherent fashion what I was doing.

The things I check obsessively are things like whether my
sketched-by-eye-on-the-body cutting lines are the same on the left side as
they are on the right -- I take the mockup off, flatten it out, and match
up the lines before I cut them. Of course they're almost always exactly
the same; one of these years I'll learn to trust my eye and skip the
checking.

> >All in all, a good and comprehensive job, and one I'll probably refer
> >people to if they want to see visuals. Though I have a feeling I'm going
> >to have to start dealing with a lot of people who don't read carefully and
> >base their opinions of *my* work on Tasha's experiment ...
> >
> It really helped me get a better idea of your technique, although I was 
> able to figure out that there were differences - nothing is ever the 
> same second hand! I'm beginning to think that all costuming research 
> amounts to a huge game of "telephone"...

Well, that's certainly true of some of period dressmaking too. You can see
it in the incremental changes that occur over distances (usually as
measured from Paris, if you're talking about Western Europe).

As for giving people a better idea of my technique, perhaps Tasha would be
willing to put a link to my own documents on her page. I have a collection
of posts and also a workshop handout at http://www.netherton.net/robin .
For instance, I discuss what Tasha calls the "quadriboob" problem in the
handout, under the question "How do I get rid of that horizontal pulling
across my breast, at the level of the underarm?" And I also describe the
use of the neckline and shoulder cut as a crucial element in the
manipulation of the bust.

It would perhaps help also to make it clearer to people reading Tasha's
site that the problems she found with the straight-front method aren't
necessarily intrinsic drawbacks of the approach, but just a matter of
experience and technique. As I said, I wouldn't want someone (reading
quickly) to think they were seeing a comparison of Tasha's approach to
Robin's, when what they're really seeing is Tasha's usual approach
compared with her first try at a slight alteration of her usual approach,
based on something she heard Robin does.

Ultimately, I think it's most important to get across that Tasha and I
share some strong convictions about the fundamentals of cutting approach
in this period. The minimal differences between our methods reflect only
how two different individuals apply that basic approach. They're still
both four-panel gowns fitted on the body to manipulate the figure, without
princess seams, waist seams, or separate foundation garments. As the
"camps" go on 14th-century construction, Tasha and I are squarely in the
same one.

--Robin


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	Mon, 07 Jul 2003 22:22:49 PDT
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 22:22:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: KATHRYN WOLTERS <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cote step-by-step
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I get error messages as well:(
Albra

Heather Meadows <alice@wonderland.com> wrote:


I just get a file not found error when I try!


>
>> I haven't read Tasha's paper yet, though -- my limp little computer 
>> can't handle the download.
>>
>
> Mine either. :/ I'm curious though!
>
> Maura
>
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul  8 01:26:12 2003
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From: KATHRYN WOLTERS <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cote step-by-step
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That's very odd--I was having the same trouble.It consistently froze up and crashed each time I tried. I finally gave up. I'm not fluent enough in 'computer- ese' to trouble shoot:(
albra

Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote:
I was able to download it, although it sure took a while! However, when
I tried to open the document, it kept crashing. Some sort of error I
don't understand. I'll try it at work tomorrow.
--sue

Maura Folsom wrote:
> 
> >
> >Robin Netherton wrote:

> >I haven't read Tasha's paper yet, though -- my limp little computer can't
> >handle the download.
> >
> 
> Mine either. :/ I'm curious though!
>
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Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2003 23:47:50 -0700
From: Dawn Jacobson <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Washing linen
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At 10:28 PM 7/7/2003 +0100, you wrote:
>actually she's a very overworked and underpaid costume maker who is always
>having pistols pointed at her LOL
>Dawn
>Ages Of Elegance makers of Historical reproduction Clothing, Uniforms and
>Bridalwear
>  http://www.agesofelegance.co.uk 0113 277 6716
> > >

Wait! I resemble that remark! ;-D

...but I haven't had a pistol pointed at me in years.

The other Dawn


Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are the costumes we wear every day. 
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	Tue, 08 Jul 2003 08:20:30 BST
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 08:20:30 +0100 (BST)
From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] 
	Blow the trumpets! New L'Age d'Or web site online at long last
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Dear All,

In case you are interested - if you are not I shall find you, wherever you
may hide :-) I have finally, at long last and after painful labour of over 9
months, more or less finished the new L'Age d'Or web site. I hope you like it
(if not, don't even think of telling me! *laughs*)

http://www.kipar.org/index.html

There will be lots of bookmarks and links out there which point to nothing,
because the re-structure was truly an upheaval, so please be aware of that, in
case you have bookmarked anything beyond the index page.

Best wishes

Nicole - who can finally look at her switched-off comp at home without feeling
guilty

=====
Men Die. Cattle Die. Word-Fame Lives Forever.   ~ Old Norse Aphorism

Email: nicole@kipar.org
URL: http://www.kipar.org

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	long last
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The time travel gallery is fun!!!!!!! :-)  :-)  :-)
Greetings,
        Deredere

N Kipar wrote:

>Dear All,
>
>In case you are interested - if you are not I shall find you, wherever you
>may hide :-) I have finally, at long last and after painful labour of over 9
>months, more or less finished the new L'Age d'Or web site. I hope you like it
>(if not, don't even think of telling me! *laughs*)
>
>http://www.kipar.org/index.html
>
>There will be lots of bookmarks and links out there which point to nothing,
>because the re-structure was truly an upheaval, so please be aware of that, in
>case you have bookmarked anything beyond the index page.
>
>Best wishes
>
>Nicole - who can finally look at her switched-off comp at home without feeling
>guilty
>
>=====
>Men Die. Cattle Die. Word-Fame Lives Forever.   ~ Old Norse Aphorism
>
>Email: nicole@kipar.org
>URL: http://www.kipar.org
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>Want to chat instantly with your online friends?  Get the FREE Yahoo!
>Messenger http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com/
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>  
>



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Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2003 14:07:31 +0100
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help on late 18th-early 19th C undergarments
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Anne Fairchild wrote:

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> Specifically, I need descriptions of what men wore under their
shirts, >vests and trousers to serve as underwear - what it was made of,
how it >fastened, how it was held up, etc. - and the 'fly' details of
mens >trousers/breeches within that time frame, and how they were held
up.

It isn't my period, but I do know that shirts were themselves thought
of as underwear until about a century after that (which is why even to
expose the shirtsleeves was regarded as *very* informal). And I think
breeches/trousers still had fall fronts (i.e. a flap buttoned up to a
deep waistband).
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Subject: [h-cost] kilt school
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      I was at the Smithsonain Folklife Festival this past Sunday 
where one of the featured countries was Scotland.  The kilt display 
was staffed by some faculty of the Keith Kilt School.  Yes, there is 
a school that teaches traditional handcrafted kiltmaking.

      www.kiltschool.moray.org

      -Carol
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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Italian portraits 1550-1570
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Wow!  And here I thought he was being paranoid! It's a terrible world,
where one's books aren't safe from fellow costumers...

Drea
(heading to Home Depot after work to pick up some window bars. ;)


On Mon, 7 Jul 2003, Sue Clemenger wrote:

> No, but if you guys distract them, the "B" team's all ready for action!
> <g>
> --sue
>
> Dianne & Greg Stucki wrote:
> >
> > > though my husband is convinced that, if I post lists of my books on the
> > > internet, one night a crazed costuming fiend is going to crawl through the
> > > sewing room window and make off with them all...
> > >
> > > Drea
> > >  >
> >
> > damn! Did someone rat me out?
> >
> > Dianne
> >
> > crossing Drea's house off the to-be-raided list...
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman Toga how to's
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In a message dated 7/8/2003 12:50:14 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
skud@infotrope.net writes:


> Well then, where on earth is the benefit to weaving it in the shape in
> the first place, if you're just going to hem it? 

Of course all this assumes you have a plain one color toga, not one with a 
border other woven decorations....in the 1st place.
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From: eirenetz@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] KWCS / KWAR Announcement
Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2003 13:54:45 +0000
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Perhaps we could arrange an h-cost social-get-together-type-thingy. I'm sure we 
could get some space for an hour or two; I have a bit of pull with the 
autocrat. ;-)

Eirene
> Are we going to wear little "h"s so we know each other?
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Marc Carlson" <marccarlson20@hotmail.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2003 2:35 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] KWCS / KWAR Announcement
> 
> 
> > >From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
> > >I'll be there (obviously!). Anyone else? I'd love to meet some people
> from
> > >the list...
> >
> > Rumor has it I'm supposed to attend.
> >
> > Marc
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
> > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail
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> >
> 
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul  8 09:56:33 2003
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Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 14:55:55 +0100 (BST)
From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Rachel?= <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
To: Tudor Fashions <tudorfashions@yahoogroups.com>,
   H-costume list <h-costume@indra.com>, HNW <h-needlework@ansteorra.org>
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Subject: [h-cost] Demo on Tudor Embroidery at V&A - report
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Well this weekend, jus gone, I gave a demonstration on Tudor Embroidery at the V&A.  Fortunately
there was quite a bit of interest.  Most people seemed to be interested in the sources for the
designs common in Tudor Embroidery, so it was quite fortunately that I brought along some pages
from Gerards Herbal to demonstrate.  

I'd brought a few pieces along with me to show different styles of embroidery.  Strangely it was
my blackwork sampler that most people were interested in, probably due to the range of different
patterns.  I also brought a piece of goldwork, currently in progress, which eventually will be for
a sweet purse.  

Unfortunately I had managed to hurt my arm so the demonstration was less that and more of a
running commentary (lasting three hours!).  Still it was good fun and I met alot of interesting
people, and even managed to get a few men talking about embroidery!

Rachel

=====
Threads of History
www.threadsofhistory.co.uk

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help on late 18th-early 19th C undergarments
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In a message dated 7/7/2003 10:15:02 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
anne_fairchild@hotmail.com writes:

> Specifically, I need descriptions of what men wore under their shirts, 
> vests 
> and trousers to serve as underwear - what it was made of, how it fastened, 
> how it was held up, etc. -

Men did not usually wear under breeches, except for warmth.  The shirt was 
pretty much it.  There is an extant pair of underdrawers that belonged to Thomas 
Jefferson, who wore them for warmth.  Does anyone on the list know where this 
pair is pictured?  I can't remember if they are knitted wool or woven.  My 
memory is that they are cut like regular breeches, with a drop front, but don't 
know if that is correct.

After my first off-the-cuff response, above, I checked with Baumgarten's 
"What Clothes Reveal."  Jefferson wore undervests, too, and other men also wore 
drawers.
Lord Botetourt's inventory listed 22 pairs of drawers of linen, cotton, and 
flannel, and 10 under waistcoats. And Washington's orders to his London tailor 
specified that his breeches were to be worn over drawers and that his 
measurements were taken accordingly.  (p. 30).

  Jefferson's drawers are not pictured, but fig. 43-44, on p. 28, is a photo 
of a linen pair from France. It has the wide waistband of breeches, and 
fastens with two covered buttons on the waistband above an open placket.  The knee 
bands have linen tape ties.  The waistband is open at back with eyelets, again 
as breeches were often cut.

Ann Wass



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Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 07:22:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: KATHRYN WOLTERS <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]  Blow the trumpets! New L'Age d'Or web site online at
	long last
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Nicole--what an interesting site! This is a time period I am unfamilar with---and it looks fascinating:)
thanks for sharing !
Albra

Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl> wrote:
The time travel gallery is fun!!!!!!! :-) :-) :-)
Greetings,
Deredere

N Kipar wrote:

>Dear All,
>
>In case you are interested - if you are not I shall find you, wherever you
>may hide :-) I have finally, at long last and after painful labour of over 9
>months, more or less finished the new L'Age d'Or web site. I hope you like it
>(if not, don't even think of telling me! *laughs*)
>
>http://www.kipar.org/index.html
>
>There will be lots of bookmarks and links out there which point to nothing,
>because the re-structure was truly an upheaval, so please be aware of that, in
>case you have bookmarked anything beyond the index page.
>
>Best wishes
>
>Nicole - who can finally look at her switched-off comp at home without feeling
>guilty
>
>=====
>Men Die. Cattle Die. Word-Fame Lives Forever. ~ Old Norse Aphorism
>
>Email: nicole@kipar.org
>URL: http://www.kipar.org
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>Want to chat instantly with your online friends? Get the FREE Yahoo!
>Messenger http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com/
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>
> 
>



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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul  8 10:34:19 2003
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From: "Cynthia Abel" <brujne@creighton.edu>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Six Wives of Henry VIII
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I just got the video yesterday (actually 2 disc DVD set) from BN.com. The
one I ordered is the Canadian(will play on US equipment)version.  Haven't
had a chance to watch it all yet, but looked at the first five minutes or so
of the Anne Boleyn section--there are lots of reinactments in costumes so
we'll have a lot to critique. I'm sure PBS will offer the video and the
book.  I got the British printing of the book back in March and like the
cover much better than the American version.  The background is a dramatic
black with head & shoulders "shot" of each wife arranged in stairstep
fashion. The pics of the wives are bigger than on the American cover and
very striking.

Cindy Abel


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: bjarne's new dress
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Bjarne:

That is a really striking style, I'm sure it will be lovely! I haven't ever
seen it before, so I don't know . . . but the collar on the lady's short
coat (?) looks bigger to me than you have made it -- more like a big
semi-circle. But it very pretty!

Gail Finke


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I love this site! It's so nicely put together and easy to follow! Having
made some of these gowns myself and followed some of Robin's written
instructions, I know this will work. There are some differences between
Tasha's and Robin's instructions, but it seems to me that following either
would give anyone a good gown.

What I liked best:

1) The model has an "in-between" sort of figure, neither straight nor heavy,
which should give people of all figure types a base to go on.

2) Showing the fitting in so many detailed steps really lets you see how the
cut and fit of this gown makes the model look her most attractive.

3) The comparison of both methods and the model's experiences of wearing
both.

4) Showing period art that supports (pardon the pun) both looks.

Anyway, that's my opinion! Thanks for doing this great site. With both Tasha
and Robin do go from, everyone interested in one of these gowns should be
able to find instructions he/she can follow.

Gail Finke
 

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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
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Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 08:29:55 -0700
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	When you have trouble posting....might want to file this note
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Status: RO

This weekend when my mail was bouncing, I tried to go here:

 

  http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

 

Instead of the usual list information a 'bug' problem report sheet popped up
with instructions to send it to 

webmaster@indra.com to facilitate it getting fixed.  In less than a half
hour I got a very nice response from someone and the list was working again.
Thought you all might want to file this away for future reference when you
can't get in touch with Elizabeth.

 

Saragrace

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman Toga how to's
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At 4:29 PM -0400 7/7/03, Kirrily Robert wrote:
>Heather wrote:
>>  If one were weaving a toga to shape on the loom, it would be done
>>  similarly -- you'd simply ignore warp threads that weren't part of
>>  the shape you were trying to create.  Keep in mind that these looms
>>  would have involved passing the shuttle through the shed by hand --
>>  no flying shuttles! -- so you aren't slowing the process down by
>>  doing only partial wefts.
>
>Presumably you then have to cut it off the loom and trim the remaining
>warps down close to the woven area.  How do you then stop it from
>fraying?

I believe that on tunics the cut ends get tied off in small groups 
and then either woven in or incorporated into seams.  But I'd have to 
look to see if I've got any definitive information -- it doesn't tend 
to be what the publications focus on.

Heather
-- 
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Heather Rose Jones
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snip...
>There is a choli pattern available from Fat Chance Belly Dance.
>It's mostly instructions on _how_ to draft your measurements into
>the pattern.  I followed their instructions and got a top that fit.
>I can see one mistake I made, which was making the bottom piece of the
>cup too short (the cup is made up of three triangular pieces).  But even
>the first try came out okay.  The two pattern versions fit A-B cups and
>C-D cups.  I'm a DD, and it took very little effort to make the pattern
>fit me.
>http://fcbd.com/html/folkwear.html#choli

I have this same choli pattern and love it.  It's great for all body types 
and varieties are only inhibited by the imagination.  I've been thinking 
about making an adaptation of this pattern into a tankini top.  It would 
offer great support and the coverage that I'm looking for.

My biggest problem when putting this together the first time was the under 
arm gusset.  I wasn't aware that there was a technique for these types of 
corners.  The one thing my sewing class at school taught me, was how to do 
this.  It made the entire borring class worthwhile!!!

I think that if you try this pattern you won't be disappointed.

:) jessica

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Help on late 18th-early 19th C undergarments
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Bjarne,

There is a neat little book available that discusses the history of 
underclothes.  I bought it recently and have really enjoyed reading it.  I'm 
not as familiar with my facts so I can't really vouch for it's historical 
accuracy.  Perhaps someone else here will know if it is to be trusted or 
not...
Anyway, I found that it had some nice pictures and lots of details.
You can find it at this link:

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0486271242/qid=1057678839/sr=8-1/ref=sr_8_1/102-9791921-2032124?v=glance&s=books&n=507846

I'm sure you can find it elsewhere but I just looked at amazon to see if it 
was available.

Hope that helps a little bit.

:) jessica

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Oops!  I meant to address that response to Anne, not Bjarne.
Sorry about any confusion that might have caused!!!!

:)  jessica

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From: Tasha McGann <demontsegur@yahoo.com>
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This is Part 1 of the response I tried to send to this
list on Sunday but had trouble getting through. I'll
send Part 2 immediately following. I broke it up in
case it was too long and would require manual review
by our list admin... --Tasha

____________

Maura wrote:
> > Robin, I was especially thinking of you when I
> decided to post this.

Thanks, Maura, for posting my site here. I must admit
that when I posted the link I was rather fried and
didn't have the energy to continue posting it to other
pertinent lists, like this one, that night -- I had to
leave town at the crack of dawn on Friday for a
grueling 2-day interstate move of some family which
I've just recovered from as of this morning. :^)

> Wow, what a great job! 

Thank you so much, Robin. Coming from you, that
means a LOT to me.

> Tasha and I talk a fair
> amount, and have talked
> recently, and she hasn't mentioned working on this,
> so I hope you haven't
> spoiled a surprise; 

No, definitely not a surprise, but I feel the site is
still technically in draft mode -- subject to future
small fixes, here and there. I often can't remember
who I've mumbled to about working on the site. :^) One
thing I regretted as I faded off to sleep on Thursday
evening after I posted the link to a couple of
pertinent SCA-related lists was "Forgot to email Robin
too..." This morning I was all set to send out
individual emails for folks who might enjoy it and saw
that it has already spread here, which is good,
certainly!

> is it public yet, or is she
> beta-testing? 

A little of both -- I'm looking for feedback, and will
certainly use your comments, Robin, to consider
rephrasing or clarifying certain bits -- like making
sure folks understand that there are other advantages
to the straight-front-seam method, and that it WAS my
first time attempting it, etc. Also, I don't want
folks to think it's a "you're either doing it Robin's
way or Tasha's way and the twain shall never meet". It
would probably be a good idea to stress the similarity
of philosophical approach between the two methods.
I've been saying for some time that folks need not
assume that my tweaks are vastly different in process
from yours, though lots of folks do seem to stress
that they are.

Also, my photo-essays are of two completely unique
fittings in the sense that next time, I might do
things slightly differently (well, probably a lot
differently if it were to be a straight-front-seam
one). No two fittings would ever be the same, and so
folks can't really use the photo-essays as rigid steps
-- more like a general overview for someone who wants
to try draping or is already experienced with it in
other ways but hasn't done this particular version. 

> There are some things I know she
> got from me (e.g. fitting lying down, and fitting
> the lining first to use
> as a guide for the outer fabric),

Oh yes, and those are great ideas that work
fabulously. I'm pretty sure it's mentioned in various
places that I'm following your methods there, because
it's very important to me not to simply become the
"owner" of something that I didn't come up with
myself. 

Interestingly enough, I don't have any gowns of my
_own_ that are lined yet (they are all cottes
simples), but will definitely be doing that later this
year (when my weight stabilizes). I've got some
gorgeous silk twill and silk broadcloth waiting to
become "The Gown" for winter wear... :^)

> There are some things we do very differently.  I
> always do fittings over a
> chemise,

Good idea, and now I recall you mentioning this
before. I do tend to do the fittings with my model in
the buff from the waist up. :^) Many jokes about
banishing any poor men who happen to be around ensue.

Part 2 coming next!

-Tasha


=====
http://www.cottesimple.com
An exploration of European clothing and accessories from the late 14th/early 15th centuries.

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From: Tasha McGann <demontsegur@yahoo.com>
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Part 2 of my original attempted response to Robin's
comments:
________

> maybe my fingers aren't strong
> enough

<Laughter> I did mention that basting takes finger
muscles.... I know it sounds like a joke, but I've had
cramps from it. And, like you said, it would catch the
chemise if you basted with it on the body, so now I'm
wondering, how do you get really tight fits without
poking your models with pins?? That's something that I
certainly haven't perfected yet. 

> What does concern me is that some people may look at
> this and see it as a
> sort of a competition between "Robin's way" and
> "Tasha's way." That would
> be, I think, an oversimplification, and I don't
> think it's what Tasha
> would intend. 

Oh goodness, no. I think I will rework the comparison
page, perhaps with a little more in the introductory
text at the top to make it clear that this was my
experiment to learn more/satisfy my curiosity, not to
disprove or downgrade your method. I'll get right to
it. When I started the experiment, it was actually to
get to the point of showing the different silhouettes
-- that part fascinates me much more than the fitting
processes themselves, actually. 

> One of the things I try to stress in my
> lectures/workshops is that there were no doubt a lot
> of individual variations in approach from one
> place/year/dressmaker to another, and that
> I teach the version that has worked best for me. 

Robin, you might be amazed how often I have to remind
people that you yourself say this -- that you are not
advocating a "my way or the highway" approach, and
that you feel there were probably variations in
period, etc. I am often met with bemused or polite
silence. It is a rather human quirk that folks will
codify a great theory into a Very Specific Law <tm>,
right down the the exact shape of a seam. 

> Overall, though, it's still the same technique, and
> we're coming from the
> same side of the discussion.

I think so, too. My fitting variations came out of
some access to your descriptions of fitting in writing
and a lot of time on my own, trying to fill in the
gaps. I am 'of your school', so to speak. 

> "Oh, Tasha showed that Robin's method isn't as
> comfortable."

<Sigh> I need to rework that comparison section to
make it clearer that it was my first attempt and one
that I find flawed -- not in the possibilities of what
could be, but in the mistakes I made. My model,
Sheree, can tell you how disappointed I was when we
noticed the 'issues' with the straight-front-seam gown
-- I SO wanted it to be as successful as the other
one. I think I said something like, "Why would I want
anyone to think I'm not a great seamstress??" ;^P
Also, my mistakes on that gown take away from the
comparison. If it had turned out perfectly, I could
have done much more of a "head-to-head" comparison,
like you describe.

> And her bottom line on the resulting silhouette
> shape captures the essence
> of the difference.

I'm glad you liked that! I've tried to explain that
general difference to folks in person and it always
results in me manhandling my own bosom in a rather
comical way. Now I can just point to a URL and
preserve my body's dignity. 

> In
> my own experience, I think a curved front -- though
> easier to fit --
> exaggerates the front projection for a larger-busted
> woman. 

Yes, it generally does, I think, though there is
_some_ compression and laying-down. I fit a friend
recently who is well-endowed (and on this list) and
the result was much less front-projected than how her
everyday bra supported her. There's no chance of
getting anything that looks distinctly modern or
bra-like, at least. I've wondered if this sort of
curved-seam fitting in 8 (or 6) panels might create
more of a modern bra look, but haven't yet 'gone
there' in my experimentation. (I'm imagining the Agnes
Sorel gown, which looks like the center-front seam is
quite straight -- while there could be shaping through
the seams that lay over each breast..)

> A straight
> front adds more support down the middle (same
> principle as the busk, but
> more flexible) and lets you shape the bust to go
> wider, rather than
> forward, which I think is more typical of period
> aesthetic. 

I think I didn't get this as much in my
straight-front-seam fitting because I was pulling too
tightly on the side seams. 
 
> All in all, a good and comprehensive job, and one
> I'll probably refer
> people to if they want to see visuals. 

Thank you. :^)

> Though I have
> a feeling I'm going
> to have to start dealing with a lot of people who
> don't read carefully and
> base their opinions of *my* work on Tasha's
> experiment ...

I'd like to avoid that too!

> I haven't read Tasha's paper yet, though -- my limp
> little computer can't 
> handle the download.

I know that paper is a problem, size-wise and
technically -- people having trouble accessing it. I'm
still thinking about workarounds. 

Once again, thank you Robin, for your fair and
comprehensive review of my site, and I will be working
on it a bit over the next few weeks to (hopefully)
make it more clear that this was my FIRST TIME
attempting a straight-front-seam draping, etc. and
that my take on how it came out can only be based on
that -- not on expert experience with that fitting
method. 

-Tasha

=====
http://www.cottesimple.com
An exploration of European clothing and accessories from the late 14th/early 15th centuries.

__________________________________
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: choli, was Re: [h-cost] modern corsets, etc
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Folkwear has a pattern that includes a choli top (closed back, unlike 
the Fat Chance open back style).
http://www.folkwear.com/asian.html  (South Asian tops and wraps)

liz young

Lee Thompson-Herbert wrote:

>>From: Cecilia <pyrfectpup@earthlink.net>
>>
>>One reason that I'd like to learn how to draft
>>patterns is to replicate the sari top that was
>>made for me when I was 16.
>>
>There is a choli pattern available from Fat Chance Belly Dance.
>It's mostly instructions on _how_ to draft your measurements into
>the pattern.  I followed their instructions and got a top that fit.
>I can see one mistake I made, which was making the bottom piece of the
>cup too short (the cup is made up of three triangular pieces).  But even
>the first try came out okay.  The two pattern versions fit A-B cups and
>C-D cups.  I'm a DD, and it took very little effort to make the pattern 
>fit me.
>http://fcbd.com/html/folkwear.html#choli
>  
>



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: cote step-by-step (2)
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>
>
>> I haven't read Tasha's paper yet, though -- my limp
>> little computer can't
>> handle the download.
>
> I know that paper is a problem, size-wise and
> technically -- people having trouble accessing it. I'm
> still thinking about workarounds.
>

Perhaps you could get someone to convert it to PDF for you,
since that works on all formats?


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Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 09:05:24 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman Toga how to's
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At 9:28 PM -0400 7/7/03, Kirrily Robert wrote:
>  >> Presumably you then have to cut it off the loom and trim the remaining
>>>  warps down close to the woven area.  How do you then stop it from
>>>  fraying?
>>
>>  There's nothing to stop you from hemming it.
>
>Well then, where on earth is the benefit to weaving it in the shape in
>the first place, if you're just going to hem it?  It ends up almost
>indistinguishable from a garment that's been cut from normal cloth.
>Sure, cutting a T involves wastage of fabric, but that's what piecing is
>for.  Sure, with the weaving-in-shape method you get a garment with a
>couple less seams, but it hardly seems worth the effort.

I rather suspect that the difference comes in with the weaving 
technology.  If you're weaving with a type of loom that's designed to 
work much more efficiently when throwing the shuttle the entire width 
of the fabric, then it's much more reasonable to cut and piece to get 
the shapes you want.  But my impression is that the Roman-era looms 
had different efficiency parameters.  If you wove the fabric larger 
than you needed and cut it, you weren't simply creating waste fabric, 
but you were creating waste fabric that had been noticeably more work 
to create in the first place than simply not weaving that section 
would have been.

But when it comes down to it, they _did_ weave tunics to shape.  We 
know that for a fact.  So there must have been some advantage to 
doing it that way that may not be obvious.  It wasn't a matter of 
"not knowing how" to do it another way, because cut and shaped 
garments appear in Egypt significantly earlier -- it's specifically 
the Roman- (and post-Roman) era "T tunics" that are typically woven 
to shape.

While it's tangential to the cause-and-effect of the weaving style, 
the particular loom arrangement used for these tunics -- with the 
warps going horizontally across the body of the garment -- had a 
strong influence on the nature of the woven-in ornamentation typical 
of this era.  The "clavii" stripes, which in surviving garments are 
often highly elaborate tapestry designs, would be a horizontal weft 
band on the loom.  You'd go merrily along weaving plain fabric, and 
then spend a brief intense period creating an elaborate tapestry 
design, then go back to plain weaving for a while.  It seems likely 
to me that the clavii style decoration was a byproduct of the weaving 
arrangement.  The ability to create the neck opening as a "selvedge" 
slit within the fabric also depended on arranging the garment 
horizontally on the loom.  Many of these features must have been 
considered strongly desirable, since setting up a loom wide enough 
for this arrangement would be more awkward than one that was simply 
the width of the body of the garment.

Heather
-- 
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Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
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Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 08:47:26 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] KWCS / KWAR Announcement
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At 6:37 PM -0600 7/7/03, Sue Clemenger wrote:
>*snort*
>I have this image of a list-only competition, involving the fanciest
>embroidered "H" at KWCS....
>--sue "just call me Hester" clemenger

Funny ... I had exactly the same image!

(I won't be there myself.  Now that I'm job-hunting, I'm being even 
_more_ careful about money than when it was just a matter of being in 
school.)

Heather
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Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 10:23:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Brainard <marcocaprioli@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] KWCS / KWAR Announcement
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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maybe scarlet ones...

Jeff


--- Beteena Paradise <bkessinger@ureach.com> wrote:
> Are we going to wear little "h"s so we know each other?


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul  8 13:24:42 2003
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     Here's a thought - print out a few copies of how to join the list.  Then 
if anyone asks what the "H" is for, you can recruit them onto the list!

     -Carol

At 6:37 PM -0600 7/7/03, Sue Clemenger wrote:
>*snort*
>I have this image of a list-only competition, involving the fanciest
>embroidered "H" at KWCS....
>--sue "just call me Hester" clemenger

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From: Jeff Brainard <marcocaprioli@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Six Wives of Henry VIII
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OOH. I've not got cable. Anybody recording it?

Jeff


--- Ailith Mackintosh <ailith@neo.rr.com> wrote:
> Greetings.
> 
> On July 16 and 23, PBS will be airing a 2 part documentary on The Six
> Wives of Henry VIII from the wives' points of view. Is this the one
> that was broadcast a while back in the UK? Dr. David Starkey is the
> host.
> 
> kate
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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No problems here. I downloaded it and it opens just fine.

Talia

> >> I haven't read Tasha's paper yet, though -- my limp
> >> little computer can't
> >> handle the download.
> >
> > I know that paper is a problem, size-wise and
> > technically -- people having trouble accessing it. I'm
> > still thinking about workarounds.

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul  8 13:43:25 2003
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Six Wives of Henry VIII
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Actually, this program is on PBS.  Check http://www.pbs.org for times 
in your area.  :)

Sarah

On Tuesday, July 8, 2003, at 10:36  AM, Jeff Brainard wrote:

> OOH. I've not got cable. Anybody recording it?
>
> Jeff
>
>
> --- Ailith Mackintosh <ailith@neo.rr.com> wrote:
>> Greetings.
>>
>> On July 16 and 23, PBS will be airing a 2 part documentary on The Six
>> Wives of Henry VIII from the wives' points of view. Is this the one
>> that was broadcast a while back in the UK? Dr. David Starkey is the
>> host.
>>
>> kate
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> __________________________________
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> SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
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>
>

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I found PBS's website for the program: http://www.pbs.org/wnet/sixwives/

Okay, will you *look* at that god-awful excuse for head gear on the 
ladies heads???

Alright.  I promised myself I wasn't going to snark, but wow.  That's 
just depressingly bad.

Sarah

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On Tuesday, July 8, 2003, at 10:48  AM, Sarah wrote:

> I found PBS's website for the program: 
> http://www.pbs.org/wnet/sixwives/
>
> Okay, will you *look* at that god-awful excuse for head gear on the 
> ladies heads???
>
> Alright.  I promised myself I wasn't going to snark, but wow.  That's 
> just depressingly bad.

Okay, I retract that statement a bit... After flipping though some of 
the website, it seems that *all* the headgear isn't quite so comical, 
but I just want to know one thing: Was anyone looking at the actual 
portrait of Anne of Cleves when they made that contraption for the 
actress?  It looks like it's about to take flight off her head!

Sarah

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	Tue, 08 Jul 2003 11:23:01 PDT
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 11:23:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Brainard <marcocaprioli@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] feeling ignernt
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Negatory, good buddy. Women are worse.

Jeff


--- Stephen Bergdahl <madlystitching@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Don't worry Bjarne
> 
> I for one was not offended in anyway.  You always hear about the
> locker room
> comments of men.  Well women at a stitch & bitch can be just as bad. 
> Trust
> me I been to both.
> 
> Stephen
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Monday, July 07, 2003 2:41 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] feeling ignernt
> 
> 
> > Ladies, and gents..............
> > Pheeeewwwwwwwwwww.
> > I am so sorry about the stupid things i said and the poor language
> i used
> > the other day.
> > The topic was so frisky, and i was tired after a long day at work,
> and i
> was
> > carried away about the frisky language.
> > As a matter of fact i had such a huge laugh that i actually poored
> myself
> an
> > xxxxl large gin, with no tonic and no ice. and i got carried away.
> > Please ladies and please gents.  I hope you will forget the stupid
> things
> i
> > said...............(please)
> > Bjarne who has recovered again from that large gin.
> > Anyway it was ok to do, because i have a holliday now, and i
> finished the
> > dress.....................
> >
> > Bjarne
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Leif og Bjarne Drews
> > www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> >
> > http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul  8 14:33:42 2003
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	Tue, 08 Jul 2003 11:32:44 PDT
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 11:32:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Brainard <marcocaprioli@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] KWCS / KWAR Announcement
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I was thinking more along the lines of "Dorkus". On another note, who
all is going to KWCS? I'm planning to go but need to find some folks to
share the gas with me. I'm in Great Falls, MT. Lemme know.

Jeff


--- Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote:
> *snort*
> I have this image of a list-only competition, involving the fanciest
> embroidered "H" at KWCS....
> --sue "just call me Hester" clemenger
> 
> Beteena Paradise wrote:
> > 
> > Are we going to wear little "h"s so we know each other?
> > 
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Marc Carlson" <marccarlson20@hotmail.com>
> > To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2003 2:35 PM
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] KWCS / KWAR Announcement
> > 
> > > >From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
> > > >I'll be there (obviously!). Anyone else? I'd love to meet some
> people
> > from
> > > >the list...
> > >
> > > Rumor has it I'm supposed to attend.
> > >
> > > Marc
> > >
> > > _________________________________________________________________
> > > Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
> > > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > >
> > >
> > 
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Lynne Connolly <lynneconnolly@ntlworld.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Six Wives of Henry VIII
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At 10:54 08/07/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>Okay, I retract that statement a bit... After flipping though some of the 
>website, it seems that *all* the headgear isn't quite so comical, but I 
>just want to know one thing: Was anyone looking at the actual portrait of 
>Anne of Cleves when they made that contraption for the actress?  It looks 
>like it's about to take flight off her head!

This series was made for Channel 5, which probably means it was made on the 
cheap.


Lynne Connolly, GSOLFOT
Award winning Historical Romance author.
The Richard and Rose books from <http://www.novelbooksinc.com/>Novelbooks Inc.
YORKSHIRE, DEVONSHIRE and now VENICE
VANESSA from <http://www.awe-struck.net/>Awe-Struck books
http://www.geocities.com/lynne_connolly2001/  

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul  8 14:47:35 2003
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Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 11:46:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Brainard <marcocaprioli@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Six Wives of Henry VIII
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Yeah, here in BFE, Montana, PBS _is_ a cable channel. I
know...ugh...can't wait to move back to a city.

J.


--- Sarah <sarah@elizabethanlady.com> wrote:
> Actually, this program is on PBS.  Check http://www.pbs.org for times
> 
> in your area.  :)
> 
> Sarah
> 
> On Tuesday, July 8, 2003, at 10:36  AM, Jeff Brainard wrote:
> 
> > OOH. I've not got cable. Anybody recording it?
> >
> > Jeff
> >
> >
> > --- Ailith Mackintosh <ailith@neo.rr.com> wrote:
> >> Greetings.
> >>
> >> On July 16 and 23, PBS will be airing a 2 part documentary on The
> Six
> >> Wives of Henry VIII from the wives' points of view. Is this the
> one
> >> that was broadcast a while back in the UK? Dr. David Starkey is
> the
> >> host.
> >>
> >> kate
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> h-costume mailing list
> >> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >
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> >
> >
> 
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Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 11:47:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Brainard <marcocaprioli@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Six Wives of Henry VIII
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Yeah, here in BFE, Montana, PBS _is_ a cable channel. I
know...ugh...can't wait to move back to a city.

J.

PS. Bjarne, the answer is "uncut". ;>


--- Sarah <sarah@elizabethanlady.com> wrote:
> Actually, this program is on PBS.  Check http://www.pbs.org for times
> 
> in your area.  :)
> 
> Sarah
> 
> On Tuesday, July 8, 2003, at 10:36  AM, Jeff Brainard wrote:
> 
> > OOH. I've not got cable. Anybody recording it?
> >
> > Jeff
> >
> >
> > --- Ailith Mackintosh <ailith@neo.rr.com> wrote:
> >> Greetings.
> >>
> >> On July 16 and 23, PBS will be airing a 2 part documentary on The
> Six
> >> Wives of Henry VIII from the wives' points of view. Is this the
> one
> >> that was broadcast a while back in the UK? Dr. David Starkey is
> the
> >> host.
> >>
> >> kate
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> h-costume mailing list
> >> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >
> > __________________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
> > http://sbc.yahoo.com
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> >
> >
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Six Wives of Henry VIII
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and in this city (San Francisco) you can't get a single channel
without paying for cable because of all the interference!

.heather.

(therefore, doesn't have PBS either.  thank goodness
for Netflix)


On Tuesday, July 8, 2003, at 11:46 AM, Jeff Brainard wrote:

> Yeah, here in BFE, Montana, PBS _is_ a cable channel. I
> know...ugh...can't wait to move back to a city.
>
> J.
>
>
> --- Sarah <sarah@elizabethanlady.com> wrote:
>> Actually, this program is on PBS.  Check http://www.pbs.org for times
>>
>> in your area.  :)
>>
>> Sarah
>>
>> On Tuesday, July 8, 2003, at 10:36  AM, Jeff Brainard wrote:
>>
>>> OOH. I've not got cable. Anybody recording it?
>>>
>>> Jeff
>>>
>>>
>>> --- Ailith Mackintosh <ailith@neo.rr.com> wrote:
>>>> Greetings.
>>>>
>>>> On July 16 and 23, PBS will be airing a 2 part documentary on The
>> Six
>>>> Wives of Henry VIII from the wives' points of view. Is this the
>> one
>>>> that was broadcast a while back in the UK? Dr. David Starkey is
>> the
>>>> host.
>>>>
>>>> kate
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> h-costume mailing list
>>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>
>>>
>>> __________________________________
>>> Do you Yahoo!?
>>> SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
>>> http://sbc.yahoo.com
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>
>>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
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Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 12:27:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Angela Kovatch <ivyharpdotcom@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] FO: My wedding dress
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What period, you ask?  Well, I admit to not doing
specific research, but I like to think it's my take on
how they could have done 16th-17th century in the
1890s.  (Underclothing is '90s, details are inspired
by the drawing for Richard the Thread's "Restoration"
woman, as well as from my opinions on "the best of
Yore.")

Sorry I couldn't wait until we've got our final pics,
but the photographer's got them up on his website. 
Only problem is, they take a while to load.  There are
three sets of pictures, but the dressing process as
well as the portraits of me are mostly in the first
one:
http://www.michaelnaimo.com/JerAngone/index.htm
These are particularly good shots of the dress:
0025 (about 1/4 down page, in the thumbnails on the
left)- overview
0039 (1/3 down page)- skirt (the picture is sideways)
015 (halfway down page)- bodice front (I'm hoping I
can get high-res versions of some like this one for my
own website, because there's lots of detail going on
here)
071 (close to bottom- another nice overview
072- back view
081- side view

Meanwhile, does anyone know of a good list like this
for wedding dressmakers?  I feel kind of guilty asking
questions for projects that aren't specifically
historical, though they're often the same techniques. 
For example, my current question is whether anyone has
experience working with or wearing white velvet.  For
the next wedding dress I'm making, we're considering
using a burnout velvet, and I don't know whether the
burnout pattern would be enough to mitigate the
"lint-brush effect" of velvet, and would it look too
dingy near the floor after an hour or two?

Thanks for letting me show off my handiwork.
-Angela

P.S. Despite the concern of family and friends when
they saw the design, the dress was in fact finished
*hours* before the ceremony.  At least, I think it was
a full two hours before.  Anyway, in time for me to do
my hair and makeup. :)

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul  8 15:32:33 2003
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From: Angela Kovatch <ivyharpdotcom@yahoo.com>
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I meant to say that on my wedding dress, the same
thing happened as on the only other 19th-C dress I've
made, a '90s ballgown.  Although I fitted the bodice
mock-up very carefully over the corset fairly loosely
laced (with Katy Bishop's help on the second
one--thanks), by the time the actual bodice was
finished I had to tight-lace the corset to get it on. 
I'm guessing this has to do with the number of layers
in the actual dress (though they're thin fabric) and
the added thickness of the stays & bone casings, but
it still seems wierd to me.  Have other people
experienced this, or am I introducing error while
sewing, somehow?  If this is normal, I will just have
to remember to fit the mock-up loose next time.

-Angela

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Hello Everyone,

The photos of my new Elizabethan Court gown are now up on my web site.
Muchos gracias to Marie Post (Big Pink Marie) for her services as
photographer. There are also a couple of new middle class outfits as
well. 


http://members.tripod.com/seamstrix/

Click on the friendly leaf that says 'Elizabethan Costumes'. 


Karen

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman Toga how to's
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This page has a lot of fascinating info on togas.  (I have no idea how 
accurate but there oughtta be something useable)

http://infotoronto.com/mythnet/romel/html/clothmen.html

HL

Heather Rose Jones wrote:

> At 9:28 PM -0400 7/7/03, Kirrily Robert wrote:
>
>>  >> Presumably you then have to cut it off the loom and trim the 
>> remaining
>>
>>>>  warps down close to the woven area.  How do you then stop it from
>>>>  fraying?
>>>
>>>
>>>  There's nothing to stop you from hemming it.
>>
>>
>> Well then, where on earth is the benefit to weaving it in the shape in
>> the first place, if you're just going to hem it?  It ends up almost
>> indistinguishable from a garment that's been cut from normal cloth.
>> Sure, cutting a T involves wastage of fabric, but that's what piecing is
>> for.  Sure, with the weaving-in-shape method you get a garment with a
>> couple less seams, but it hardly seems worth the effort.
>
>
> I rather suspect that the difference comes in with the weaving 
> technology.  If you're weaving with a type of loom that's designed to 
> work much more efficiently when throwing the shuttle the entire width 
> of the fabric, then it's much more reasonable to cut and piece to get 
> the shapes you want.  But my impression is that the Roman-era looms 
> had different efficiency parameters.  If you wove the fabric larger 
> than you needed and cut it, you weren't simply creating waste fabric, 
> but you were creating waste fabric that had been noticeably more work 
> to create in the first place than simply not weaving that section 
> would have been.
>
> But when it comes down to it, they _did_ weave tunics to shape.  We 
> know that for a fact.  So there must have been some advantage to doing 
> it that way that may not be obvious.  It wasn't a matter of "not 
> knowing how" to do it another way, because cut and shaped garments 
> appear in Egypt significantly earlier -- it's specifically the Roman- 
> (and post-Roman) era "T tunics" that are typically woven to shape.
>
> While it's tangential to the cause-and-effect of the weaving style, 
> the particular loom arrangement used for these tunics -- with the 
> warps going horizontally across the body of the garment -- had a 
> strong influence on the nature of the woven-in ornamentation typical 
> of this era.  The "clavii" stripes, which in surviving garments are 
> often highly elaborate tapestry designs, would be a horizontal weft 
> band on the loom.  You'd go merrily along weaving plain fabric, and 
> then spend a brief intense period creating an elaborate tapestry 
> design, then go back to plain weaving for a while.  It seems likely to 
> me that the clavii style decoration was a byproduct of the weaving 
> arrangement.  The ability to create the neck opening as a "selvedge" 
> slit within the fabric also depended on arranging the garment 
> horizontally on the loom.  Many of these features must have been 
> considered strongly desirable, since setting up a loom wide enough for 
> this arrangement would be more awkward than one that was simply the 
> width of the body of the garment.
>
> Heather


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul  8 16:57:42 2003
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I got three Live Journal codes to hand out...first three suckers who email me 
gets 'em.

-Sarra Wryght
Elizabethan Dress Journals: http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/index.html
Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman Toga how to's
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A bit off the site i just mentioned:

> Some articles of clothing came from the loom ready to wear, but most 
> garments required some sewing. Tunics were made of two pieces of cloth 
> sewed together. Togas had to be measured, cut, and sewed to fit. Even 
> a coarse paenula was not woven in one piece.


FWIW

HL

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Snail slime, was: Fake pearls
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> Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2003 21:54:40 -0700
> From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Snail slime, was: Fake pearls
> 
> OK, is it just me?  Or does anyone else have visions of people
> squeezing snails for their slime?  I mean, how in the world do you
> collect snail slime?!?!?!?  Blech....  :-P
> 
> A thoroughly grossed out Mary
> 
> 
> =====
> This ought to really push you over the edge:  In another life while
> researching the effects of Poly Chlorinated Bi-Phenyls (aka as
> PCBs)  We
> used to collect snails, expose them to the PCBs, cook 'em and grind
> 'em
> up in a blender, then extract their 'juice' to run gas spectrometry
> on
> them.  They sure smelled good cookin' in the lab....
> 
> I had to keep reminding myself that we were using radio-isotopic
> tracers
> in them to prevent me from dipping!  
> 
> I never paid much attention to it, but I betcha there was plenty of
> slime in there!
> 
> Sg
> 

You're right!  That was just a tad too graphic for my stomach! <ha
ha>  Good thing I haven't eaten yet...   :-D

~Mary

=====
"Right now I'm having amnesia and deja vu at the same time.  I think I've forgotten this before."     ~ Steven Wright
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman Toga how to's
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Does anyone happen to know whether Romans favoured fulled woolens or 
not?  It would make a difference to whether you worried about hemming or 
not.

Jean


aquazoo@patriot.net wrote
>AlbertCat@aol.com said:
>> There's nothing to stop you from hemming it.
>
>     But then why bother weaving it as an oval - why not just cut & hem to
>shape?
>
>     I handwove fabric for some Roman cloaks, and we decided to cut them as
>ovals with the back a bit longer than the front.  The sides were shorter for
>better access for arms & hands.  We made the hoods out of the leftover 
>fabric.
>In one area, I butted the fulled wool and stitched it together, than fulled it
>a bit more to hide the stitches.  It worked!
>
>     -Carol
>
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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How tall was Queen Elizabeth I?  What modern equivalent dress size was 
she?  Davenport says a jacket of hers is in the Elizabeth Day McCormic 
collection in the Boston Fine Arts Museum, if that's any help (Davenport 
compares her size with that of a ten-year-old girl).  There must be other 
garments of hers around, mustn't there?

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Hello Anne,

Willett & Cunnington's The History of Underclothes has photos of some drawers 
from the Victoria & Albert Museum's collection, specifically "long drawers, 
of stockinette with feet" and a pair of short flannel drawers.  There are also 
good descriptions of what changes you'll see in the cut of the shirt during 
the period; notably size of collar and cuffs differs from previous period.

The 1808 Lady's Economical Assistant has been republished (ISBN 
0-9640161-3-3) and details the men's shirt dimensions very well.  This was an undergarment 
for men, with the possible addition of an underwaistcoat as has been 
mentioned.

Ladies' undergarments are described in these sources as well.

Good luck!
Linda Bolla
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Lynne Connolly <lynneconnolly@ntlworld.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] QE I - how tall?
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At 15:13 08/07/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>How tall was Queen Elizabeth I?  What modern equivalent dress size was 
>she?  Davenport says a jacket of hers is in the Elizabeth Day McCormic 
>collection in the Boston Fine Arts Museum, if that's any help (Davenport 
>compares her size with that of a ten-year-old girl).  There must be other 
>garments of hers around, mustn't there?

There's a wax effigy of her in the museum of Westminster Abbey. It was used 
at her funeral, as was customary in those days.


Lynne Connolly, GSOLFOT
Award winning Historical Romance author.
The Richard and Rose books from <http://www.novelbooksinc.com/>Novelbooks Inc.
YORKSHIRE, DEVONSHIRE and now VENICE
VANESSA from <http://www.awe-struck.net/>Awe-Struck books
http://www.geocities.com/lynne_connolly2001/  

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul  8 18:43:02 2003
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Dang... and I was going to bring up the SCA-India list's new word for 
"the Ladies":  Grapefruits!  (Seeing pix of those period idealized 
Indian ladies in cholis would explain that better than I could.  It's a 
very distinctive look.)

Personally I enjoyed the party :-)

Heather L

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

>Ladies, and gents..............
>Pheeeewwwwwwwwwww.
>I am so sorry about the stupid things i said and the poor language i used
>the other day.
>The topic was so frisky, and i was tired after a long day at work, and i was
>carried away about the frisky language.
>As a matter of fact i had such a huge laugh that i actually poored myself an
>xxxxl large gin, with no tonic and no ice. and i got carried away.
>Please ladies and please gents.  I hope you will forget the stupid things i
>said...............(please)
>Bjarne who has recovered again from that large gin.
>Anyway it was ok to do, because i have a holliday now, and i finished the
>dress.....................
>
>Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>  
>

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Caraco jacket fantasy?
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Bjarne, most people have fantasies about being able to make *anything* 
your way!

Sorry not much help doc'ing accuracy...

HL

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

>Anyway, ladies, gents. i would be very pleased to have some feed back of a
>question 18th century.
>I plan to make a lady a Caraco Jacket and a skirt.
>I have made the corset to fit, very  nice with horisontal bones over the
>bust to make extra shape. What are the rules for a Caraco Jacket. Should
>this follow the seams cf. side cb. or could a Caraco Jacket have a stomacher
>front, laced and a gathered frill round the waistline to the center back?
>Or is it like this example Janet Arnold shows in Patterns of Fashion where
>there are pleats in the side and center back?
>Is it possible to use a little fantasy to make a Caraco Jacket my way?
>
>Feed back much apreciated!
>
>
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>  
>

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From: Claire Clarke <Lady_Angharad@bigpond.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: cote step-by-step (2)
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tasha McGann" <demontsegur@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2003 1:56 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: cote step-by-step (2)


> Part 2 of my original attempted response to Robin's
> comments:
> ________
> 
> > maybe my fingers aren't strong
> > enough
> 
> <Laughter> I did mention that basting takes finger
> muscles.... I know it sounds like a joke, but I've had
> cramps from it. And, like you said, it would catch the
> chemise if you basted with it on the body, so now I'm
> wondering, how do you get really tight fits without
> poking your models with pins?? That's something that I
> certainly haven't perfected yet. 
> 
Um, mark the desired seam very very carefully (on both sides) 
and then take the whole thing off, baste and put it back on again. 
I do this all the time on me. I guess it's a bit harder if
your model is standing around in the nuddy in the meantime.
But they wouldn't be if you were doing it over a chemise. 
Claire
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I'm out! See ya on LJ!

-Sarra Wryght
Elizabethan Dress Journals: http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/index.html
Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
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This is quick, but...

Nicole, I love the new site, especially the time-travelling members of your 
group. Stephen also says you did a great job with PhotoShop.

Tasha, wow! I feel like I just went to a class on gown construction. Your 
photo-essays are extremely good. Thanks!

Dawn

Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are the costumes we wear every day. 


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Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2003 17:17:04 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] QE I - how tall?
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Lynne Connolly writes, in a message sent 11:38 PM 7/8/03 +0100:
>At 15:13 08/07/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>>How tall was Queen Elizabeth I?  What modern equivalent dress size was 
>>she?  Davenport says a jacket of hers is in the Elizabeth Day McCormic 
>>collection in the Boston Fine Arts Museum, if that's any help (Davenport 
>>compares her size with that of a ten-year-old girl).  There must be other 
>>garments of hers around, mustn't there?
>
>There's a wax effigy of her in the museum of Westminster Abbey. It was 
>used at her funeral, as was customary in those days.

But I live in California, a few thousand miles from being able to go there 
and measure it.  I was just wondering if anyone on the list knew how tall 
she was.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2003 18:32:21 -0600
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] KWCS / KWAR Announcement
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Are you done with your work for your doctorate? Do we get to celebrate?
<g>
--sue

Heather Rose Jones wrote:
> 
> At 6:37 PM -0600 7/7/03, Sue Clemenger wrote:
> >*snort*
> >I have this image of a list-only competition, involving the fanciest
> >embroidered "H" at KWCS....
> >--sue "just call me Hester" clemenger
> 
> Funny ... I had exactly the same image!
> 
> (I won't be there myself.  Now that I'm job-hunting, I'm being even
> _more_ careful about money than when it was just a matter of being in
> school.)
> 
> Heather
> --
> *****
> Heather Rose Jones
> hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
> *****
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul  8 20:50:37 2003
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Six Wives of Henry VIII
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Urk!
They're awful.  What *is* that, that Katherine of Aragon's supposed to
be wearing?
--sue

Sarah wrote:
> 
> I found PBS's website for the program: http://www.pbs.org/wnet/sixwives/
> 
> Okay, will you *look* at that god-awful excuse for head gear on the
> ladies heads???
> 
> Alright.  I promised myself I wasn't going to snark, but wow.  That's
> just depressingly bad.
> 
> Sarah
> 
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul  8 20:51:35 2003
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Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 17:48:58 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] KWCS / KWAR Announcement
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At 6:32 PM -0600 7/8/03, Sue Clemenger wrote:
>Heather Rose Jones wrote:
>>
>>  At 6:37 PM -0600 7/7/03, Sue Clemenger wrote:
>>  >*snort*
>>  >I have this image of a list-only competition, involving the fanciest
>>  >embroidered "H" at KWCS....
>>  >--sue "just call me Hester" clemenger
>>
>>  Funny ... I had exactly the same image!
>>
>>  (I won't be there myself.  Now that I'm job-hunting, I'm being even
>>  _more_ careful about money than when it was just a matter of being in
>  > school.)

>Are you done with your work for your doctorate? Do we get to celebrate?
><g>
>--sue
>

I'm in the final editing stages of the dissertation.  (Read: 
incorporating all the comments from my advisor, who tends to say 
ever-so-useful things like, "You should mention Smith's work on this 
topic."  Just "Smith".  Just "Smith's work".  No first name.  No 
date.  No journal name or book title.  Just "Smith".  We've had a 
number of angsty go-rounds about this feedback style.)

But the job hunt is proceeding because the university will give me no 
more TA work (nor student loans) so regardless of when the 
dissertation gets finally signed off, I need a job _now_.  Actually, 
I needed a job last month.  The frustrating thing is that there 
actually _are_ a fair number of editorial/writing jobs being 
advertised around here, I'm just not getting called back on any of 
the ones I'm applying for.  Well, and then there was the company I 
had two interviews with and then they never contacted me back and 
ignored my follow-up phone messages and e-mails.  I'm hoping that's 
an aberration.  But hey, at least I made $30 on jury duty this week!

Heather
(will conjugate Hittite verbs for food)
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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From: "Kendra Van Cleave" <kendra@tweedlebop.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <4.3.1.2.20030708151026.00e1ed90@mail.frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] QE I - how tall?
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I have a black & white image of that jacket in a catalog from the Boston
MFA, but unfortunately it doesn't give any dimensions!

- Kendra
http://demode.tweedlebop.com

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Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 19:01:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Brainard <marcocaprioli@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Six Wives of Henry VIII
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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yeah, but who needs tv with all those hunky men in san fran!

Jeff


--- Heather Meadows <alice@wonderland.com> wrote:
> and in this city (San Francisco) you can't get a single channel
> without paying for cable because of all the interference!
> 
> .heather.
> 
> (therefore, doesn't have PBS either.  thank goodness
> for Netflix)
> 
> 
> On Tuesday, July 8, 2003, at 11:46 AM, Jeff Brainard wrote:
> 
> > Yeah, here in BFE, Montana, PBS _is_ a cable channel. I
> > know...ugh...can't wait to move back to a city.
> >
> > J.
> >
> >
> > --- Sarah <sarah@elizabethanlady.com> wrote:
> >> Actually, this program is on PBS.  Check http://www.pbs.org for
> times
> >>
> >> in your area.  :)
> >>
> >> Sarah
> >>
> >> On Tuesday, July 8, 2003, at 10:36  AM, Jeff Brainard wrote:
> >>
> >>> OOH. I've not got cable. Anybody recording it?
> >>>
> >>> Jeff
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> --- Ailith Mackintosh <ailith@neo.rr.com> wrote:
> >>>> Greetings.
> >>>>
> >>>> On July 16 and 23, PBS will be airing a 2 part documentary on
> The
> >> Six
> >>>> Wives of Henry VIII from the wives' points of view. Is this the
> >> one
> >>>> that was broadcast a while back in the UK? Dr. David Starkey is
> >> the
> >>>> host.
> >>>>
> >>>> kate
> >>>> _______________________________________________
> >>>> h-costume mailing list
> >>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> __________________________________
> >>> Do you Yahoo!?
> >>> SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
> >>> http://sbc.yahoo.com
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> >>> h-costume mailing list
> >>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
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> >> h-costume mailing list
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> >
> >
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> >
> 
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From: kat@grendal.rain.com
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Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2003 19:01:44 -0700
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> I found PBS's website for the program:
> http://www.pbs.org/wnet/sixwives/
> 
> Okay, will you *look* at that god-awful excuse for head gear on the
> ladies heads???

Did they get them from the same rental house that seems to provide so 
many hats?

I still remember seeing the same awful French Hood from Anne of a 
Thousand Days in one of the old "Six Wives of Henry VIII" episodes. 
It was beaded or embroidered and looked like something from Victorian 
times (with the jet beaded purses although this one was gold and 
white.) 

People keep showing me that and saying "see, you can embroider/bead 
French Hoods" as if *that* were documentation. "But BBC always does 
such a good job on documentation, it has to be right." Yeah, sure.

>From what I can find they were made of gold work as in jewellery 
work, not gold work as in beading/embroidering. All of the references 
in the Inventories of King Henry VIII were obviously jewellery work.

However, if someone has inventory or extant object documentation for 
embroidery/beadwork on French Hoods, I'd like to see it. Always 
looking for more solid information on the things! (That and gabled 
hoods, especially from the c.1540 time period.)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Subject: [h-cost] Help on late 18th-early 19th C undergarments 
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Sincere thanks to all who have responded to my query!

Jessica, taking a peek on Amazon.com, the book definitely looks as if it's 
worth ordering, and reasonably priced too.  Thanks also to Bjarne, and to 
both Ann's and Kate's descriptions and background.

If I'm understanding correctly - it wasn't common or considered necessary 
for the average man to wear under-drawers beneath their breeches/trousers, 
but the gentry, the nobility, military officers, etc., likely would, fabric 
to be determined by their finances?  And the colder the climate, the more 
necessary they'd be considered?  Sound about right?

Thanks again to all.

Anne

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From: Jeff Brainard <marcocaprioli@yahoo.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] fabric stores and men
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Here's one for you to stew over: I (at least for the present) work at a
fabric store, only recently, and have noticed in the 3 weeks or month
that I've been there that there's this really wierd gender dynamic
about a guy working at a fabric store, with the customers and the
workers. It's really really messed up in this case enough that I'm
talking to a lawyer, but have any of you ever noticed a "ew. there's a
MAN in the FABRIC STORE" reaction from a lot of stitch bitches? I've
noticed it as being a customer in some stores, but never took note of
it until now. Sorry, I'm snarky and tweaked out right now with that and
other things and my palm pilot (subtext there reads "LIFE") dumped
after the batteries got knocked loose by a nameless person and I'm in a
little crisis. Lemme know what you guys think. Bjarne?

Jeff

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] QE I - how tall?
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 22:13:35 -0400
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Not the best of sources, I know.... but I found two references to her
height. One said 5'3"-5'5" (an Elizabeth bio page with no sources given) and
the other said 5'4" (a genetics page with no source for the info given).

Hope it helps a little!

Teena

----- Original Message -----
From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2003 8:17 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] QE I - how tall?


> Lynne Connolly writes, in a message sent 11:38 PM 7/8/03 +0100:
> >At 15:13 08/07/2003 -0700, you wrote:
> >>How tall was Queen Elizabeth I?  What modern equivalent dress size was
> >>she?  Davenport says a jacket of hers is in the Elizabeth Day McCormic
> >>collection in the Boston Fine Arts Museum, if that's any help (Davenport
> >>compares her size with that of a ten-year-old girl).  There must be
other
> >>garments of hers around, mustn't there?
> >
> >There's a wax effigy of her in the museum of Westminster Abbey. It was
> >used at her funeral, as was customary in those days.
>
> But I live in California, a few thousand miles from being able to go there
> and measure it.  I was just wondering if anyone on the list knew how tall
> she was.
>
>
>         CarolynKayta Barrows
> dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
>           www.FunStuft.com
>
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From: "Talia" <khanson@kc.rr.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] fabric stores and men
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 21:24:05 -0500
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Gosh...I know I wouldn't give a second thought to a guy working in a fabric
store...I for one know that my guy is better at color matching and selection
than I'll ever be!

Talia

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Jeff Brainard
> Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2003 9:16 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] fabric stores and men
>
>
> Here's one for you to stew over: I (at least for the present) work at a
> fabric store, only recently, and have noticed in the 3 weeks or month
> that I've been there that there's this really wierd gender dynamic
> about a guy working at a fabric store, with the customers and the
> workers. It's really really messed up in this case enough that I'm
> talking to a lawyer, but have any of you ever noticed a "ew. there's a
> MAN in the FABRIC STORE" reaction from a lot of stitch bitches? I've
> noticed it as being a customer in some stores, but never took note of
> it until now. Sorry, I'm snarky and tweaked out right now with that and
> other things and my palm pilot (subtext there reads "LIFE") dumped
> after the batteries got knocked loose by a nameless person and I'm in a
> little crisis. Lemme know what you guys think. Bjarne?
>
> Jeff
>
> __________________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul  8 22:28:27 2003
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From: "Beteena Paradise" <bkessinger@ureach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] QE I - how tall?
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 22:15:24 -0400
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One other thing, the genetics page said that her height of 5'4" was
"strikingly tall" for her time period.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Beteena Paradise" <bkessinger@ureach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2003 10:13 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] QE I - how tall?


> Not the best of sources, I know.... but I found two references to her
> height. One said 5'3"-5'5" (an Elizabeth bio page with no sources given)
and
> the other said 5'4" (a genetics page with no source for the info given).
>
> Hope it helps a little!
>
> Teena
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2003 8:17 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] QE I - how tall?
>
>
> > Lynne Connolly writes, in a message sent 11:38 PM 7/8/03 +0100:
> > >At 15:13 08/07/2003 -0700, you wrote:
> > >>How tall was Queen Elizabeth I?  What modern equivalent dress size was
> > >>she?  Davenport says a jacket of hers is in the Elizabeth Day McCormic
> > >>collection in the Boston Fine Arts Museum, if that's any help
(Davenport
> > >>compares her size with that of a ten-year-old girl).  There must be
> other
> > >>garments of hers around, mustn't there?
> > >
> > >There's a wax effigy of her in the museum of Westminster Abbey. It was
> > >used at her funeral, as was customary in those days.
> >
> > But I live in California, a few thousand miles from being able to go
there
> > and measure it.  I was just wondering if anyone on the list knew how
tall
> > she was.
> >
> >
> >         CarolynKayta Barrows
> > dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
> >           www.FunStuft.com
> >
> >               //// \\\
> >              ////-@@\\\
> >             ((((   7 )))
> >              (((  <> ))))
> >                 )   ((((((
> >            /----\   /---\))
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >
>

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul  8 22:36:07 2003
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Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 19:33:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: Angela Kovatch <ivyharpdotcom@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric stores and men
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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My DH, who goes to the fabric store with me rather
frequently, sometimes even shopping for himself, says
he's noticed a little of this, but actually kind of
likes it--if he wants to just browse, no one bothers
him (actualy, I can't recall any instance of agressive
sales myself, in a fabric store, so I don't know
whether that's meaningful), and if he wants to ask a
question, he still gets service.  But he's never
worked in a fabric store.  Sorry to hear you're having
a bad experience.

-Angela


--- Jeff Brainard <marcocaprioli@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Here's one for you to stew over: I (at least for the
> present) work at a
> fabric store, only recently, and have noticed in the
> 3 weeks or month
> that I've been there that there's this really wierd
> gender dynamic
> about a guy working at a fabric store, with the
> customers and the
> workers. It's really really messed up in this case
> enough that I'm
> talking to a lawyer, but have any of you ever
> noticed a "ew. there's a
> MAN in the FABRIC STORE" reaction from a lot of
> stitch bitches? I've
> noticed it as being a customer in some stores, but
> never took note of
> it until now. Sorry, I'm snarky and tweaked out
> right now with that and
> other things and my palm pilot (subtext there reads
> "LIFE") dumped
> after the batteries got knocked loose by a nameless
> person and I'm in a
> little crisis. Lemme know what you guys think.
> Bjarne?
> 
> Jeff
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo
> http://search.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul  8 22:39:22 2003
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Six Wives of Henry VIII
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ha!  You'd love where I live... it's the "gay ghetto" just
north of the Castro, and I do often just sit at my front
window and people watch.  I'm one of only two female
types that live on my block - the rest are hunky men.

.heather.


On Tuesday, July 8, 2003, at 07:01 PM, Jeff Brainard wrote:

> yeah, but who needs tv with all those hunky men in san fran!
>
> Jeff
>
>
> --- Heather Meadows <alice@wonderland.com> wrote:
>> and in this city (San Francisco) you can't get a single channel
>> without paying for cable because of all the interference!
>>
>> .heather.
>>
>> (therefore, doesn't have PBS either.  thank goodness
>> for Netflix)
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, July 8, 2003, at 11:46 AM, Jeff Brainard wrote:
>>
>>> Yeah, here in BFE, Montana, PBS _is_ a cable channel. I
>>> know...ugh...can't wait to move back to a city.
>>>
>>> J.
>>>
>>>
>>> --- Sarah <sarah@elizabethanlady.com> wrote:
>>>> Actually, this program is on PBS.  Check http://www.pbs.org for
>> times
>>>>
>>>> in your area.  :)
>>>>
>>>> Sarah
>>>>
>>>> On Tuesday, July 8, 2003, at 10:36  AM, Jeff Brainard wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> OOH. I've not got cable. Anybody recording it?
>>>>>
>>>>> Jeff
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> --- Ailith Mackintosh <ailith@neo.rr.com> wrote:
>>>>>> Greetings.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On July 16 and 23, PBS will be airing a 2 part documentary on
>> The
>>>> Six
>>>>>> Wives of Henry VIII from the wives' points of view. Is this the
>>>> one
>>>>>> that was broadcast a while back in the UK? Dr. David Starkey is
>>>> the
>>>>>> host.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> kate
>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>> h-costume mailing list
>>>>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>>>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> __________________________________
>>>>> Do you Yahoo!?
>>>>> SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
>>>>> http://sbc.yahoo.com
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> h-costume mailing list
>>>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> h-costume mailing list
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>>>
>>>
>>> __________________________________
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>>> The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
>>> http://search.yahoo.com
>>> _______________________________________________
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>>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>
>
> __________________________________
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From: ConstanceFairfax@cs.com
To: h-costume@indra.com (Historical Costume)
Subject: RE: [h-cost] fabric stores and men
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A man in a fabric store?  I think that's as great as a guy that does laundry, dishes, or changes diapers.  Every male reenactor should be able to sew! Of course, I've recently been scarred by the experience of fitting my husband for woolen hose:
  "Stop that.  Quit doing that, you're messing up the fit.  Well, I'm not doing anything, just moving the fabric around!"

Thank God I made a pattern. :)


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From: sewinggoddess@att.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric stores and men
Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 02:45:04 +0000
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Actually, in the fabric store I work in we have three guys, one of whom is a black gentleman that the customers come to see 
from all over town because he went to our local fashion academy and he has,  as the customers say, such a great sense of 
style!  I've never seen him stumped by  a sewing question yet.   And the color combinations and pattern choices he makes are 
jsut to DIE for!   I can't say enough good things about him.  

   Oh that reminds me, I have to bring him some spiral steel boning in so he can play with it for these corsets he's playing with 
constructing.....

Crissy
> Here's one for you to stew over: I (at least for the present) work at a
> fabric store, only recently, and have noticed in the 3 weeks or month
> that I've been there that there's this really wierd gender dynamic
> about a guy working at a fabric store, with the customers and the
> workers. It's really really messed up in this case enough that I'm
> talking to a lawyer, but have any of you ever noticed a "ew. there's a
> MAN in the FABRIC STORE" reaction from a lot of stitch bitches? I've
> noticed it as being a customer in some stores, but never took note of
> it until now. Sorry, I'm snarky and tweaked out right now with that and
> other things and my palm pilot (subtext there reads "LIFE") dumped
> after the batteries got knocked loose by a nameless person and I'm in a
> little crisis. Lemme know what you guys think. Bjarne?
> 
> Jeff
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo
> http://search.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul  8 22:55:24 2003
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Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 20:53:14 -0600
From: Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Sorry I haven't been available for admin concerns, but ...

I would like to announce the arrival of my son, born at 3:45am on 7/5.
He weighed 8 lbs., 14 oz., and was 20" long.  His Apgar scores were 9
and 10.  Name will be announced at the Bris on Sunday.

						...eliz


-- 
"The decision to have a child is to accept that your heart will
forever walk about outside of your body"    - Katharine Hadley




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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul  8 22:57:22 2003
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From: "Beteena Paradise" <bkessinger@ureach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <PLEDKBCOMPOJAMNLHFCEEECGCNAA.khanson@kc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric stores and men
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 22:50:06 -0400
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Status: RO

I wouldn't think twice about a man working in a fabric store any more than I
would balk at a woman working in a hardware store. The fabric store where I
mainly shop has about 3 or 4 men working there (roughly 1/3 of the staff).
In fact, I generally search a particular one out when I have a question as
he seems to be the most knowledgeable.

My husband usually goes with me when I am fabric shopping and as I am
usually looking for something specific, he helps me look. He is getting
quite good at knowing what the different fabrics are, by the way. :) I asked
him and he said he doesn't feel uncomfortable at all nor has anyone looked
at him askance.

Teena

> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> > Behalf Of Jeff Brainard
> > Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2003 9:16 PM
> > To: Historical Costume
> > Subject: [h-cost] fabric stores and men
> >
> >
> > Here's one for you to stew over: I (at least for the present) work at a
> > fabric store, only recently, and have noticed in the 3 weeks or month
> > that I've been there that there's this really wierd gender dynamic
> > about a guy working at a fabric store, with the customers and the
> > workers. It's really really messed up in this case enough that I'm
> > talking to a lawyer, but have any of you ever noticed a "ew. there's a
> > MAN in the FABRIC STORE" reaction from a lot of stitch bitches? I've
> > noticed it as being a customer in some stores, but never took note of
> > it until now. Sorry, I'm snarky and tweaked out right now with that and
> > other things and my palm pilot (subtext there reads "LIFE") dumped
> > after the batteries got knocked loose by a nameless person and I'm in a
> > little crisis. Lemme know what you guys think. Bjarne?
> >
> > Jeff

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul  8 23:03:54 2003
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric stores and men
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Well, I can tell you that *my* reaction to a guy working in a fabric store
is generally to go to him instead of one of the ladies. If he's working in a
fabric store, I figure he has more of a chance of knowing a bit about
fabrics, rather than a woman that was chosen for the job "because women know
about these things".

I think it's pretty cool, actually. But it always depends on your own
environment.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jeff Brainard" <marcocaprioli@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2003 10:16 PM
Subject: [h-cost] fabric stores and men


> Here's one for you to stew over: I (at least for the present) work at a
> fabric store, only recently, and have noticed in the 3 weeks or month
> that I've been there that there's this really wierd gender dynamic
> about a guy working at a fabric store, with the customers and the
> workers. It's really really messed up in this case enough that I'm
> talking to a lawyer, but have any of you ever noticed a "ew. there's a
> MAN in the FABRIC STORE" reaction from a lot of stitch bitches? I've
> noticed it as being a customer in some stores, but never took note of
> it until now. Sorry, I'm snarky and tweaked out right now with that and
> other things and my palm pilot (subtext there reads "LIFE") dumped
> after the batteries got knocked loose by a nameless person and I'm in a
> little crisis. Lemme know what you guys think. Bjarne?
>
> Jeff
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo
> http://search.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2003 20:05:09 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>,
   Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
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Congratulations!  that's wonderful news!

Margo


"One Tough Costumer"

www.margospatterns.com
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Oh congratulations!


On Tuesday, July 8, 2003, at 07:53 PM, Elizabeth Lear wrote:

> Sorry I haven't been available for admin concerns, but ...
>
> I would like to announce the arrival of my son, born at 3:45am on 7/5.
> He weighed 8 lbs., 14 oz., and was 20" long.  His Apgar scores were 9
> and 10.  Name will be announced at the Bris on Sunday.
>
> 						...eliz
>
>
> -- 
> "The decision to have a child is to accept that your heart will
> forever walk about outside of your body"    - Katharine Hadley
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: "Genie" <kerowyn@mindspring.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20030709021613.66148.qmail@web11402.mail.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric stores and men
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 22:16:48 -0500
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Where is this store located?  In a large metropolitan area or more rural.  I
work part-time for Hancock's and we have no problem with male customer's per
se.  Is it your co-workers or the clientel you're getting this reaction
from.  Our female customer's really seemed to enjoy having a male clerk
waiting on them the few times we had one.

Genie

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Brainard" <marcocaprioli@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2003 9:16 PM
Subject: [h-cost] fabric stores and men


> Here's one for you to stew over: I (at least for the present) work at a
> fabric store, only recently, and have noticed in the 3 weeks or month
> that I've been there that there's this really wierd gender dynamic
> about a guy working at a fabric store, with the customers and the
> workers. It's really really messed up in this case enough that I'm
> talking to a lawyer, but have any of you ever noticed a "ew. there's a
> MAN in the FABRIC STORE" reaction from a lot of stitch bitches? I've
> noticed it as being a customer in some stores, but never took note of
> it until now. Sorry, I'm snarky and tweaked out right now with that and
> other things and my palm pilot (subtext there reads "LIFE") dumped
> after the batteries got knocked loose by a nameless person and I'm in a
> little crisis. Lemme know what you guys think. Bjarne?
>
> Jeff
>
> __________________________________________________
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> The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul  8 23:20:21 2003
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From: "Genie" <kerowyn@mindspring.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <000801c345bf$f4fce3b0$210110ac@TEENALAPTOP>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] QE I - how tall?
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 22:19:13 -0500
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Yes,

I remember a comment about height even in Victorian era a streetwalker named
Long Meg was 5'4", this was considered tall for a female.

Genie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Beteena Paradise" <bkessinger@ureach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2003 9:15 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] QE I - how tall?


> One other thing, the genetics page said that her height of 5'4" was
> "strikingly tall" for her time period.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Beteena Paradise" <bkessinger@ureach.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2003 10:13 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] QE I - how tall?
>
>
> > Not the best of sources, I know.... but I found two references to her
> > height. One said 5'3"-5'5" (an Elizabeth bio page with no sources given)
> and
> > the other said 5'4" (a genetics page with no source for the info given).
> >
> > Hope it helps a little!
> >
> > Teena
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>
> > To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2003 8:17 PM
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] QE I - how tall?
> >
> >
> > > Lynne Connolly writes, in a message sent 11:38 PM 7/8/03 +0100:
> > > >At 15:13 08/07/2003 -0700, you wrote:
> > > >>How tall was Queen Elizabeth I?  What modern equivalent dress size
was
> > > >>she?  Davenport says a jacket of hers is in the Elizabeth Day
McCormic
> > > >>collection in the Boston Fine Arts Museum, if that's any help
> (Davenport
> > > >>compares her size with that of a ten-year-old girl).  There must be
> > other
> > > >>garments of hers around, mustn't there?
> > > >
> > > >There's a wax effigy of her in the museum of Westminster Abbey. It
was
> > > >used at her funeral, as was customary in those days.
> > >
> > > But I live in California, a few thousand miles from being able to go
> there
> > > and measure it.  I was just wondering if anyone on the list knew how
> tall
> > > she was.
> > >
> > >
> > >         CarolynKayta Barrows
> > > dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
> > >           www.FunStuft.com
> > >
> > >               //// \\\
> > >              ////-@@\\\
> > >             ((((   7 )))
> > >              (((  <> ))))
> > >                 )   ((((((
> > >            /----\   /---\))
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > >
> > >
> >
>
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul  8 23:23:18 2003
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Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2003 22:25:20 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Sheryl Nance-Durst <sherylnd@kc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] list admin announcement
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Fantastic! Congratulations!

Sheryl Nance-Durst

At 08:53 PM 7/8/03 -0600, you wrote:
>Sorry I haven't been available for admin concerns, but ...
>
>I would like to announce the arrival of my son, born at 3:45am on 7/5.
>He weighed 8 lbs., 14 oz., and was 20" long.  His Apgar scores were 9
>and 10.  Name will be announced at the Bris on Sunday.
>
>                                                 ...eliz


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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] QE I - how tall?
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 23:27:36 -0400
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On Tuesday 08 July 2003 06:13 pm, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> How tall was Queen Elizabeth I?  What modern equivalent dress size was
> she?  Davenport says a jacket of hers is in the Elizabeth Day McCormic
> collection in the Boston Fine Arts Museum, if that's any help (Davenport
> compares her size with that of a ten-year-old girl).  There must be other
> garments of hers around, mustn't there?


I don't know.  I seem to remember reading somewhere that she was 5 ft. 3 in. 
tall, but I can't remember where I got that tidbit from or what the source of 
the information was.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
 
"You live and learn, or you don't live long."
 Robert Heinlein

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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On Tuesday 08 July 2003 11:12 pm, Heather Meadows wrote:
> Oh congratulations!
>
> On Tuesday, July 8, 2003, at 07:53 PM, Elizabeth Lear wrote:
> > Sorry I haven't been available for admin concerns, but ...
> >
> > I would like to announce the arrival of my son, born at 3:45am on 7/5.
> > He weighed 8 lbs., 14 oz., and was 20" long.  His Apgar scores were 9
> > and 10.  Name will be announced at the Bris on Sunday.

Congratulations!


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
 
"You live and learn, or you don't live long."
 Robert Heinlein

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On Tuesday 08 July 2003 07:40 pm, H. Law wrote:
> Dang... and I was going to bring up the SCA-India list's new word for
> "the Ladies":  Grapefruits!  (Seeing pix of those period idealized
> Indian ladies in cholis would explain that better than I could.  It's a
> very distinctive look.)

I know women with grapefruits.

However, I only have strawberries.  Small strawberries at that, too.  :-)

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
 
"You live and learn, or you don't live long."
 Robert Heinlein

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Congratulations and Mazel Tov! May he bring you much
joy! 
Cynthia

=====
An eye for an eye makes the whole world blind.  Gandhi

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> > Dang... and I was going to bring up the SCA-India list's new word for
> > "the Ladies":  Grapefruits!  (Seeing pix of those period idealized
> > Indian ladies in cholis would explain that better than I could.  It's a
> > very distinctive look.)
> I know women with grapefruits.
> However, I only have strawberries.  Small strawberries at that, too.  :-)

Or to quote from Bend it like Beckham:

"Mosquito bites" for me;)
As opposed to "juicy juicy mangoes";)

michaela
http://costumes.glittersweet.com



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] QE I - how tall?
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On Tuesday, July 8, 2003, at 07:13  PM, Beteena Paradise wrote:

> Not the best of sources, I know.... but I found two references to her
> height. One said 5'3"-5'5" (an Elizabeth bio page with no sources 
> given) and
> the other said 5'4" (a genetics page with no source for the info 
> given).

I'd always heard the "taller than average" bit, but considering 
"average" in the 16th century was about 5 feet tall, this gives a lot 
of room for anyone's guess.  I always imagined her to be around 5'6, 
for some reason, but this is just me.  I know that Mary, Queen of Scots 
was as tall as the average man at that time (Alison Weir put her at 6 
feet tall, but I'll have to check the source she used for that) and 
there is a famous reference to Elizabeth's conversation with James 
Melville about Mary being "too tall" (the assumption being that 
Elizabeth was "just right").

Sarah

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Subject: [h-cost] experiments in lacing my kirtle
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This is an attempt to rewrite what I lost as all my mail got deleted just at
the same time as the problems with the h-cost mail server.

This might be better illustrated with a step by step comparisson thing,
though as recently seen people tend to take these things as either an
usurpation of someone elses work, or the new and only way to go about
something;)

And it's not. We all have different body types, and they have different
needs. I just found a way that works for me.

Having tried simply putting my side laced kirtle on and lacing in standing
up, mostly through necessity as I was in a rush and hadn't tested the outfit
before, I decided there had to be a better way of wearing the thing.

People suggested the lie on the floor method, without realising I was
talking about a side laced outfit, and indeed a finished garment. I am not
trying to fit my kirtle, just find a better way to get into it.

So I tested lying down and also my idea of using what I know is advised with
putting a bra on, the lean forward and fit in place;)

I tested each several times, seeing if there was any way to better, or find
faults with both methods and found for me lying down was not of benefit, but
the leaning forward was. As it probably should be: I really ought to know
what works for my own body by now having lived in it for more than twenty
*mumble* years.

Lying down made things go simply too far outwards, and flattened even more
than normal. Which might have been fine if the kirtle laced/buttoned up the
front, but it didn't, the laces are at the sides which means there is no
room to manouvre. This is beacuse when one lies down one fills out a garment
more than when one stands up. With a fitted garment this leaves no room to
move about, even beofre being finished with lacing.
And being laced at the sides rather than the front, the only way to get
under the kirtle was through the neckline, which is not at all helpful.

When I then stood up I was very uncomfortable, it felt like the pressure was
pushing down, and was more pronounced than when I had simply laced the
kirtle together. This may not be the same for anyone else, as I said it's
all about how *my* body works. Not just size but also shape and
physiological factors. As I said I tried this several times, with no
improvement.

So I tried standing and leaning forward and then pulling the laces taut. The
leaning forward had the useful effect of lifting and bringing the bosom
together, which as it is may not be completely the ideal of the time, but it
does lead to a final result that is. Leaning forward also meant there was
room through the neck opening to move the shift and to make sure everything
was stable and in place.

So having laced the top half to fit, I was able to pull the laces at the
bottom and then take stock of what had happened.

As I stood up, things were able to shift a bit due to gravity and actually
found a good lift and support and did not look all squished up and like I
was trying to achieve cleavage, but there was shape and best of all it was
comfortable.

I think a series of photos might be useful.. and further experimentation of
course (seeig whether lacing over different types of shift etc change
things)... and it might be helpful for others who have the same problems to
try new ways to dress. And it might even give someone an idea totally
unrelated, the way tips on this list have often helped me;)

michaela
http://costumes.glittersweet.com



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At 08:17 PM 7/8/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>Here's one for you to stew over: I (at least for the present) work at a
>fabric store, only recently, and have noticed in the 3 weeks or month
>that I've been there that there's this really wierd gender dynamic
>about a guy working at a fabric store, with the customers and the
>workers. It's really really messed up in this case enough that I'm
>talking to a lawyer, but have any of you ever noticed a "ew. there's a
>MAN in the FABRIC STORE" reaction from a lot of stitch bitches? I've
>noticed it as being a customer in some stores, but never took note of
>it until now. Sorry, I'm snarky and tweaked out right now with that and
>other things and my palm pilot (subtext there reads "LIFE") dumped
>after the batteries got knocked loose by a nameless person and I'm in a
>little crisis. Lemme know what you guys think. Bjarne?
>
>Jeff

Sorry this is happening to you.  It isn't right regardless of the 
circumstances.  If you are competent at what you do (and if we compare you 
to a lot of the women working in fabric stores, that isn't always very 
difficult comparatively), then no one should care about anything else about 
you.  Good luck, I hope that it works out.  maryann

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To Nicole-

Where's the time-travelling feature?  Will my Netscape/iMac not allow it 
to work or show up?

Thanks for your time,

Theresa Eacker


> Nicole, I love the new site, especially the time-travelling members of 
> your group. 

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul  9 01:03:20 2003
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	Tue, 08 Jul 2003 22:00:28 PDT
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 22:00:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: KATHRYN WOLTERS <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] list admin announcement
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Congrats, Eliz!!
Cheers and Best---
Albra

Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com> wrote:
Sorry I haven't been available for admin concerns, but ...

I would like to announce the arrival of my son, born at 3:45am on 7/5.
He weighed 8 lbs., 14 oz., and was 20" long. His Apgar scores were 9
and 10. Name will be announced at the Bris on Sunday.

...eliz


-- 
"The decision to have a child is to accept that your heart will
forever walk about outside of your body" - Katharine Hadley




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> I would like to announce the arrival of my son, born at 3:45am on 7/5.
> He weighed 8 lbs., 14 oz., and was 20" long. His Apgar scores were 9
> and 10. Name will be announced at the Bris on Sunday.

Congratulations:)

michaela
http://costumes.glittersweet.com



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric stores and men
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Hello,

I've heard a lot saying that this isn't the case for them so I just had to
say that you're not the only one!  My husband gets it all the time when he
goes in there.  All the women clerks are asking him how he got roped into
coming in with me when really we're picking out stuff for him.  The few
times I've made him go pick stuff up for me, they ask him continuously if
he's sure and maybe he should wait until his wife can come in with him.
While he doesn't sew a lot, he prolly knows more than the clerks there.

Then again, I just really hate my local store.  They've asked me several
times to bring my mom in before buying that fabric, and how dare I even
consider to wash wool in the washing machine, and am I sure that I really
need more than five yards of this fabric, and...  Needless to say, I will
travel 45 minutes to go to the next closest store rather than hitting the
one that is 15 minutes away at most.  They may still question my husband at
times but they are much nicer about it and don't make him argue for five
minutes before cutting the fabric.

Avien


----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Brainard" <marcocaprioli@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2003 9:16 PM
Subject: [h-cost] fabric stores and men


> Here's one for you to stew over: I (at least for the present) work at a
> fabric store, only recently, and have noticed in the 3 weeks or month
> that I've been there that there's this really wierd gender dynamic
> about a guy working at a fabric store, with the customers and the
> workers. It's really really messed up in this case enough that I'm
> talking to a lawyer, but have any of you ever noticed a "ew. there's a
> MAN in the FABRIC STORE" reaction from a lot of stitch bitches? I've
> noticed it as being a customer in some stores, but never took note of
> it until now. Sorry, I'm snarky and tweaked out right now with that and
> other things and my palm pilot (subtext there reads "LIFE") dumped
> after the batteries got knocked loose by a nameless person and I'm in a
> little crisis. Lemme know what you guys think. Bjarne?
>
> Jeff
>
> __________________________________________________
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>other things and my palm pilot (subtext there reads "LIFE") dumped
>after the batteries got knocked loose by a nameless person and I'm in a
>little crisis. Lemme know what you guys think. Bjarne?

Weird, here in the UK many fabric stores have males in them, I'd never
consider it an issue at all.

Hope it sorts itself out

Mel
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Fabric stores and men
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DH Pierre knows more about fabric than most of the women that work in our 
local Hancock's and Joann's (all we have, except WalMart).  They all know 
both of us, and always want to know what we're working on this time.  They 
let us use one of the cutting tables if we need to because the pieces  are 
too big to lay out at home.  I say most because one of them who used to 
work there was a fashion graduate (and good friend), and another is a 
laurel in SCA.

He works in a retail store (as stockroom manager currently, but has done 
most other jobs there as well), and sometimes the ladies at the fitting 
room come and ask him if they're stumped by a customer's question about 
fit, color, fabric, etc.  He and I both bemoan the poor quality of most 
ready-to-wear, but at least he's (somewhat) easier to fit.

Sandy


"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed To Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly--
Why They Are Simply Doomed."

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
-- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda


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From: "Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] QE I - how tall?
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 06:33:16 +0100
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>I remember a comment about height even in Victorian era a streetwalker
named
Long Meg was 5'4", this was considered tall for a female.

Victorians (in England) were notably shorter particularly in cities than in
some earlier time.

Generally it goes the more rural or the richer you were the more likely you
are to reach full heigh potrential

QE1 was rich , came from rich parents so 5'4" does not seem impossible

Mel

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I have to say that I've -never- had any problems in fabric stores.  Unless 
you count being ignored at the cutting table, but my wife gets that too so I 
don't think it's just a gender thing.   OTOH, I am rarely ignored by the 
same clerk more than once...

Marc

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] QE I - how tall?
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> QE1 was rich , came from rich parents so 5'4" does not seem impossible

Anne Boleyn was actually pretty petite.  Henry VIII on the other hand 
was somewhere in the region of 6'3", a tall guy by any era's standards. 
  ;)

Sarah

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>Anne Boleyn was actually pretty petite.

The richness gives her the ability to norish the babe in the womb, thus
giving it the best chance of max height. I didn't mean to imply if you were
rich you were necessarily tall, just that you had the best chance to meet
you max potential (which might be tiny depending in your genes !) :0)

>  Henry VIII on the other hand
was somewhere in the region of 6'3", a tall guy by any era's standards.

Except very very early European Hunter gathers :) But yes that is way tall
and above average although in Blood red roses (a little earlier) there are
several common(?) soldiers at the 5 11 -6ft mark

Mel

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul  9 02:45:18 2003
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric stores and men
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Hi all,

Your two husbands are definitely NOT alone in this!  My father and I walked 
into JoAnns so that I could get fabric and he could get lichen for his train 
set, and he got bothered and such by sales ladies, while I stood on line with 
the oldest woman alive...poor lady.  Bet she was real happy that it was payday 
by the time she finished cutting everything for me.
However, in New York City, which is where I highly prefer to shop, since it's 
really only 10 minutes more on the road than JoAnn's, no one bats an eye at 
all the male clerks, cutters, etc.  My "usual" store, on Broadway (P&S Fabrics) 
is made up of an entirely male staff with the exception of one or two women.  
And the fashion fabric guy knows me there, so I can sometimes get discounts.  
He also didn't bat an eye when I bought $300 worth of fabric for a school 
play.  

<snippish>

aviendiora@mcleodusa.net writes:

> Then again, I just really hate my local store.  They've asked me several
> times to bring my mom in before buying that fabric, and how dare I even
> consider to wash wool in the washing machine, and am I sure that I really
> need more than five yards of this fabric, and...  Needless to say, I will
> travel 45 minutes to go to the next closest store rather than hitting the
> one that is 15 minutes away at most.  They may still question my husband at
> times but they are much nicer about it and don't make him argue for five
> minutes before cutting the fabric.

I've encountered this as well, but again, never in NYC, and also never at the 
local store, which is overpriced but staffed by women who mostly know what 
they're doing, though the sewing instructor stared at me as if I'd gone nuts 
when I told her about the load of costumes I was handling.  Anyhow.  Things like 
this have always happened at Joanns, and since I'm 18, it's "Have your mom 
look at this."  And I think to myself, "My mother knows how to sew a button on.  
She can't operate a sewing machine or a serger without supervision.  She 
wouldn't know the difference between bemberg and silk essence if I made a 
flowchart."  Granted this is too long to say to a sales clerk, so I just smile politely 
and say, "Oh, she doesn't sew."  
Goodness, I'd love to send my boyfriend into one of these stores with orders 
for a specific type/color/whatever fabric for a T-tunic or something for 
himself.  I'll hide in a corner to watch, because he's 6'4" and built like a 
linebacker- or a person who chops wood all the time, and seeing all the ladies go 
"Um, ah, er" while trying to figure out what such a large, non-sewer-like person 
is doing in the store, would be very amusing.

Christine
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In a message dated 7/9/03 2:45:50 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
IceGirlNIN@aol.com writes:

> Your two husbands are definitely NOT alone in this!  

Ah, I should clarify that.  I meant to say the two people who were mentioning 
that the men in their lives were being given this treatment, and I think the 
original poster was..Jeff?  So that's really three people, I think?  I should 
just not write e-mails at 2am.

Christine
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Web Sites
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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 --- Theresa Eacker <theresa@misc.com> wrote: > To Nicole-
> 
> Where's the time-travelling feature?  Will my Netscape/iMac not allow it 
> to work or show up?

It's in 'Living History' and under the chapter 'photo galleries'. The direct
link is here:

http://www.kipar.org/society/galleries_timetravel.html

The coding of the siteis clean and simple, no matter which broswer or OS you
are using, it should all work. I don't like fancy scripting that only works for
some. If it doesn't work, then I made an error. *laughs*

Nicole

=====
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Email: nicole@kipar.org
URL: http://www.kipar.org

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	Wed, 09 Jul 2003 08:43:41 BST
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 08:43:41 +0100 (BST)
From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric stores and men
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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 --- Jeff Brainard <marcocaprioli@yahoo.com> wrote: > Here's one for you to
stew over: I (at least for the present) work at a
> fabric store, only recently, and have noticed in the 3 weeks or month
> that I've been there that there's this really wierd gender dynamic
> about a guy working at a fabric store, with the customers and the
> workers. It's really really messed up in this case enough that I'm
> talking to a lawyer, but have any of you ever noticed a "ew. there's a
> MAN in the FABRIC STORE" reaction from a lot of stitch bitches? 

Really? I'm so sorry to hear that Jeff. Might it be a country/culture thing?
There are men working in lots of fabric stores I visited in Germany, and male
customers, and men working in fabric stores here in England, and male customers
too, including my partner. Hmm,.... hang in there, perhaps you can change the
climate!

Nicole

=====
Men Die. Cattle Die. Word-Fame Lives Forever.   ~ Old Norse Aphorism

Email: nicole@kipar.org
URL: http://www.kipar.org

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul  9 04:20:28 2003
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Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 01:18:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: Lee Thompson-Herbert <lee@retro.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1890s bodice "shrinkage"
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Angela Kovatch <ivyharpdotcom@yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> I meant to say that on my wedding dress, the same
> thing happened as on the only other 19th-C dress I've
> made, a '90s ballgown.  Although I fitted the bodice
> mock-up very carefully over the corset fairly loosely
> laced (with Katy Bishop's help on the second
> one--thanks), by the time the actual bodice was
> finished I had to tight-lace the corset to get it on. 
> I'm guessing this has to do with the number of layers
> in the actual dress (though they're thin fabric) and
> the added thickness of the stays & bone casings, but
> it still seems wierd to me.  Have other people
> experienced this, or am I introducing error while
> sewing, somehow?  If this is normal, I will just have
> to remember to fit the mock-up loose next time.

I know that when we did my 1890s wedding dress, we made the bodice _very_
loose, basted the top and lining layers together, then put it on me with my
underpinnings.  We then used silk tailor's thread to hand baste the seams
to what would be their final fitting.  This helps avoid the ever-shrinking
garment problem that pops up whenever you have multiple layers.  I did the
same with our double-breasted band jackets, which were wool with interlining
and cotton lining.  Cutting too big is far better than not-quite-big-enough.
You can always take in the seams on a too-loose garment.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Subject: [h-cost] Interesting tings to see in Glasgow?
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In september I will be on vakation for a week in Glasgow, Scotland and I 
wonder if there are things I really should see.
Are there musea's with historical costumes??

Greetings,
        Deredere

 


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul  9 05:17:18 2003
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From: "Dawn Wood" <dawn@agesofelegance.co.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting tings to see in Glasgow?
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there's the Kelvingrove in the city which has a very good armour collection
(William Randolph Hurst's collection) and lots of Rennie mackintosh things
and also the Burrell collection which is just outside set in a lovely house
in fab grounds which has some very nice Tudor embroideries amongst other
items
Dawn
Ages Of Elegance makers of Historical reproduction Clothing, Uniforms and
Bridalwear
 http://www.agesofelegance.co.uk 0113 277 6716
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Deredere Galbraith" <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2003 10:02 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Interesting tings to see in Glasgow?


> In september I will be on vakation for a week in Glasgow, Scotland and I
> wonder if there are things I really should see.
> Are there musea's with historical costumes??
>
> Greetings,
>         Deredere
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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http://www.glasgowmuseums.com/venue/index.cfm?venueid=4
They say Kelvingrove is closed untill 2006 :-(

Greetings,
        Deredere

Dawn Wood wrote:

>there's the Kelvingrove in the city which has a very good armour collection
>(William Randolph Hurst's collection) and lots of Rennie mackintosh things
>and also the Burrell collection which is just outside set in a lovely house
>in fab grounds which has some very nice Tudor embroideries amongst other
>items
>Dawn
>Ages Of Elegance makers of Historical reproduction Clothing, Uniforms and
>Bridalwear
> http://www.agesofelegance.co.uk 0113 277 6716
>----- Original Message ----- 
>From: "Deredere Galbraith" <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
>To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2003 10:02 AM
>Subject: [h-cost] Interesting tings to see in Glasgow?
>
>
>  
>
>>In september I will be on vakation for a week in Glasgow, Scotland and I
>>wonder if there are things I really should see.
>>Are there musea's with historical costumes??
>>
>>Greetings,
>>        Deredere
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>    
>>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>  
>

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Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 10:41:22 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Lynne Connolly <lynneconnolly@ntlworld.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help on late 18th-early 19th C undergarments 
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At 02:01 09/07/2003 +0000, you wrote:
>If I'm understanding correctly - it wasn't common or considered necessary 
>for the average man to wear under-drawers beneath their breeches/trousers, 
>but the gentry, the nobility, military officers, etc., likely would, 
>fabric to be determined by their finances?  And the colder the climate, 
>the more necessary they'd be considered?  Sound about right?

I think in Britain underdrawers were usual. The Victoria and Albert Museum 
have several examples.


Lynne Connolly, GSOLFOT
Award winning Historical Romance author.
The Richard and Rose books from <http://www.novelbooksinc.com/>Novelbooks Inc.
YORKSHIRE, DEVONSHIRE and now VENICE
VANESSA from <http://www.awe-struck.net/>Awe-Struck books
http://www.geocities.com/lynne_connolly2001/  

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Lynne Connolly <lynneconnolly@ntlworld.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Six Wives of Henry VIII
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At 19:01 08/07/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>I still remember seeing the same awful French Hood from Anne of a
>Thousand Days in one of the old "Six Wives of Henry VIII" episodes.
>It was beaded or embroidered and looked like something from Victorian
>times (with the jet beaded purses although this one was gold and
>white.)
>
>People keep showing me that and saying "see, you can embroider/bead
>French Hoods" as if *that* were documentation. "But BBC always does
>such a good job on documentation, it has to be right." Yeah, sure.

It was nothing to do with the BBC. It was produced for Channel 5, the 
'other' terrestrial channel, ie the smallest. The recreations were deeply 
naff, I thought.


Lynne Connolly, GSOLFOT
Award winning Historical Romance author.
The Richard and Rose books from <http://www.novelbooksinc.com/>Novelbooks Inc.
YORKSHIRE, DEVONSHIRE and now VENICE
VANESSA from <http://www.awe-struck.net/>Awe-Struck books
http://www.geocities.com/lynne_connolly2001/  

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Lynne Connolly <lynneconnolly@ntlworld.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting tings to see in Glasgow?
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At 11:25 09/07/2003 +0200, you wrote:
>http://www.glasgowmuseums.com/venue/index.cfm?venueid=4
>They say Kelvingrove is closed untill 2006 :-(

You have to go to the Art School. It's Charles Rennie Mackintosh. Not 
costume per se, but unmissable. The Art Gallery is wonderful.
And there's this nice pub on Sauchiehall St


Lynne Connolly, GSOLFOT
Award winning Historical Romance author.
The Richard and Rose books from <http://www.novelbooksinc.com/>Novelbooks Inc.
YORKSHIRE, DEVONSHIRE and now VENICE
VANESSA from <http://www.awe-struck.net/>Awe-Struck books
http://www.geocities.com/lynne_connolly2001/  

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul  9 06:14:26 2003
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CONGRATULATIONS.  HOPE YOU ARE BOTH DOING FINE!!!
NOW THE REAL FUN BEGINS.....
ELISABETH
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul  9 06:19:01 2003
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From: "Dawn Wood" <dawn@agesofelegance.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting tings to see in Glasgow?
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 11:16:27 +0100
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hmm I know they are refurbishing as my friend is the arms curator and
redesigning the gallery but didn't think they were actually closed go and
stand on the doorstep and hammer until they let you in
Dawn
Ages Of Elegance makers of Historical reproduction Clothing, Uniforms and
Bridalwear
 http://www.agesofelegance.co.uk 0113 277 6716
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Deredere Galbraith" <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2003 10:25 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting tings to see in Glasgow?


> http://www.glasgowmuseums.com/venue/index.cfm?venueid=4
> They say Kelvingrove is closed untill 2006 :-(
>
> Greetings,
>         Deredere
>
> Dawn Wood wrote:
>
> >there's the Kelvingrove in the city which has a very good armour
collection
> >(William Randolph Hurst's collection) and lots of Rennie mackintosh
things
> >and also the Burrell collection which is just outside set in a lovely
house
> >in fab grounds which has some very nice Tudor embroideries amongst other
> >items
> >Dawn
> >Ages Of Elegance makers of Historical reproduction Clothing, Uniforms and
> >Bridalwear
> > http://www.agesofelegance.co.uk 0113 277 6716
> >----- Original Message ----- 
> >From: "Deredere Galbraith" <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
> >To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> >Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2003 10:02 AM
> >Subject: [h-cost] Interesting tings to see in Glasgow?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>In september I will be on vakation for a week in Glasgow, Scotland and I
> >>wonder if there are things I really should see.
> >>Are there musea's with historical costumes??
> >>
> >>Greetings,
> >>        Deredere
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>_______________________________________________
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> >>h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
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> >
> >
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 06:48:06 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Brenda Bell <webwarren@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] Caraco jacket fantasy?
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OK, I'm sitting here with the only sources *I* have for this period:  Janet 
Arnold, _Patterns of Fashion 1:  Englishwomen's dresses and their 
construction c. 1660-1860_ and Robert L. Klinger, "Distaff Sketch Book:  A 
Collection of Notes and Sketches on Women's Dress in America, 1774-1783". 
Note that the Klinger opus does not contain a bibliography; furthermore, it 
appears to be the equivalent of Winters & Savoy for the Colonial 
Williamsburg (re-en)actors/docents/whatever they're called. Other biblio 
info for the Sketch Book:  copyright Robert Lee Klinger, 1974; published by 
Pioneer Press, Box 684, Union City, TN 38261; Library of Congress Catalog 
Card Number 74-29086. When I purchased the book, I think in the early 
1990's, it was selling for $4.95 at the Colonial Williamsburg gift shop.

Between the two publications, I have three sketches and patterns for a 
caraco. They are all between hip length and knee length, the hems even all 
around except that one has a cut-away center-front and one has a false open 
front with center front insert.

The first, in Arnold, also appears in Klinger. It has three main pattern 
pieces: a front piece, from which an integral would-be-skirt-gore extends 
from the waist (it is invert-pleated into the jacket); a back piece, in 
which a similar would-be-skirt-gore extends the skirt into almost a 
90-degree wedge; and a sleeve piece, which covers to just below the elbows. 
It is cut short at the front, the cutaway taking the shape of a stomacher 
with a squared-off center-front point. The fronts meet at center front and 
are secured edge-to-edge by hooks and eyes. There is an inverted pleat at 
the center back of the skirt as well. The neckline is square-ish and cut 
low; a fichu fills it in. According to Arnold, there would have been 
removable sleeve flounces of organza, and the petticoat would either have 
matched the caraco's fabric, or it would have been decorated with a 
flounce. The non-cutaway portions of the caraco are knee-length all around.

The other two are only in Klinger.

The first of these looks to be working-class. Instead of an extension to 
the side front for a pleat, the side-front angles to a 45-degree A-line 
from the waist down. The back pleat does remain. There is no front cutaway, 
and the jacket is laced down to what would be the bottom of a lady's 
corset. The sleeves are elbow-length at the inner arm, extending a little 
lower to cover the outer elbow, and the sleeve bottom is pleated to form a 
triple-pleated decorative cuff. The neckline is squared but modest, 
completely covering the breasts. The hem is hip-length all around. The 
title of the page is "Long Jacket or Caraco", and the front view is also 
labeled "French 'Casaquin'".

The other caraco in Klinger includes an attached pleated hood that 
otherwise looks to be tightly-fitted. This gives the caraco the appearance 
of being an out-of-doors garment. A buttoned false front gives the 
appearance of a stomacher (or a buttoned-front bodice) beneath an open 
lapelled-front jacket. The front pattern piece extends through the side 
back with an extension for a side-back pleat; it has also an armhole tuck 
that ends in a side (false side-seam) pleat. It has the typical extended 
front shoulder. The back pattern piece includes extensions for inverted 
pleats at center back and side back. The center-back seam is slightly 
curved for fitting through the waist, and the side-back seam is curved much 
like a for a semi-princess seam. The hood is pleated along both the back 
seam and the neckline and is attached to a band which is then applied to 
the neckline. The hood neckline is somewhat shorter than the expanse 
between the front turnbacks/lapels, so there is a bit of a gap between 
turnback and hood. The top of the false front appears to cover most of the 
breast, leaving a comely swell of bosom and possibly the barest hint of 
cleavage. The false front comes to a point about 2-3" below the waist; the 
rest of the caraco skirt extends about 3-5" below the hip, even all around. 
The sleeves are elbow length with a graduated attached flounce.

I know words don't always describe a garment well, so I hope this is at 
least of some help.



Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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	Wed, 09 Jul 2003 08:16:11 EDT
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 08:16:11 -0400 (EDT)
From: liz haines <ejburtt2003@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] list admin announcement
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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congrats ! parenthood is the grandest adventure
liz

Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com> wrote:
Sorry I haven't been available for admin concerns, but ...

I would like to announce the arrival of my son, born at 3:45am on 7/5.
He weighed 8 lbs., 14 oz., and was 20" long. His Apgar scores were 9
and 10. Name will be announced at the Bris on Sunday.

...eliz


-- 
"The decision to have a child is to accept that your heart will
forever walk about outside of your body" - Katharine Hadley




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] feeling ignernt ...and enjoying it :-)
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Cathy Raymond wrote:

>>>I know women with grapefruits.

>However, I only have strawberries.  Small strawberries at that, too. 
:-)

Reminds me of a sketch in the "Two Ronnies" TV series years ago.

Ronnie Corbett: I want to buy my wife a new bra, but I don't know what
size to ask for.
Ronnie Barker: Well, are they like melons? Or grapefruits? Or oranges?
RC: [thinks a bit] They're like eggs. [Pause] ........Fried.

Having a figure of the fried egg variety myself, that always makes me
smile.






Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: side-lacing kirtle
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>    8. experiments in lacing my kirtle (michaela)
> though as recently seen people tend to take these
> things as either an
> usurpation of someone elses work, or the new and
> only way to go about something;)

Hopefully, though, that was just Robin and I fretting
that such a thing *might* happen, not that it already
has, at least with my website.  

(On that topic -- I hope to make a bunch of
fixes/tweaks this weekend. A web developer friend even
found some phantom javascript I thought I'd taken out
floating around in my source code. <sigh> That alone
could be tripping up people's browsers, if they're
using an older generation of browser.)

> I am not
> trying to fit my kirtle, just find a better way to
> get into it.

I can see the challenges you must face, having to
reach to the side, and under one arm to boot... Do you
have an extra-long lace in the eyelets? Or, are you
also threading the lace as you do your lean-forward
method? I just imagine that a long lace that can stay
in the eyelets, loosened ahead of time, would at least
eliminate some of the awkwardness.

> I think a series of photos might be useful..

As a technical writer by profession, I think you're on
to something here.. <wink>

Tasha

=====
http://www.cottesimple.com
An exploration of European clothing and accessories from the late 14th/early 15th centuries.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] QE I - how tall?
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        I hate to jump in without my references at hand, but I do know
that I read she was well above average in height.  At that time the well
to do were about on the par with us modern folk (or so I read).  I have
seen several references to Mary Stuart being almost six feet tall (did a
lot of research on her and believe this is correct).  Somehow, I always
thought of QE1 as being in the five foot seven to nine inch range, but,
like I said, I don't remember the sources.  Sorry, I doubt that this is a
bit of help.

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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        Congratulations!!

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric stores and men
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Can't say I ever noticed it.  I worked for Hancock for several years with 
male managers who of course had to pitch in and do everything as we were always 
running on a skeleton staff.  Maybe it has something to do with your geographic 
location?  We are in a large metropolitan area (Washington, DC), so we may 
have more male customers, too.
Sorry you are running into that.  As a customer, I don't care who is helping 
me, as long as he or she is competent (can you tell that the staff at my local 
JoAnn's, where I have to go when I just need a thing or two, leave something 
to be desired?)

Ann Wass
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] QE I - how tall?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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 --- catpurson@juno.com wrote: >         I hate to jump in without my
references at hand, but I do know
> that I read she was well above average in height.  At that time the well
> to do were about on the par with us modern folk (or so I read).  

That's kind of relative, because I find that I am tall here in England (5'9")
but average in Germany and almost short in Scandinavia.

Nicole

=====
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Email: nicole@kipar.org
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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] QE I - how tall?
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If it's true that the effigy corset in Westminster was from QE's store, it
might be possible to extrapolate her height based on the height of the
corset.  I know that it is around 21 inches around the waist, but is very
long and narrow.  Hard to believe it fit an actual woman!

Drea


On Wed, 9 Jul 2003 catpurson@juno.com wrote:

>         I hate to jump in without my references at hand, but I do know
> that I read she was well above average in height.  At that time the well
> to do were about on the par with us modern folk (or so I read).  I have
> seen several references to Mary Stuart being almost six feet tall (did a
> lot of research on her and believe this is correct).  Somehow, I always
> thought of QE1 as being in the five foot seven to nine inch range, but,
> like I said, I don't remember the sources.  Sorry, I doubt that this is a
> bit of help.
>
> Lalah
> Never give up, Never surrender
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul  9 09:33:27 2003
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        Fabric.com has cotton velvet for 12.95 a yard and cotton
velveteen for 7.95 a yard.  Why do they always have the fabric I want
after I spend more at Joann's?  Never mind.  That was a rhetorical
question.  If you are looking for cotton velvet or velveteen, I can say I
have had good luck with these people over the past couple of years.

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul  9 09:34:01 2003
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Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 09:31:04 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carol Kocian <aquazoo@patriot.net>
Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] Caraco jacket fantasy?
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Hi Brenda,

      Beware - the Distaff Sketch Book is a bad source.  Anything 
decent is plagerized without citation.  That's why the same caraco is 
in Arnold, it's copied from there.

      A much better book was recently published - Whatever Shall I 
Wear, A Guide to Assembling a Woman's Basic 18th Century Wardrobe by 
Mara Riley, illustrated by Kate Johnson.  There's not much about 
caracos specifically, but it's a well-researched, beautifully 
illustrated book!

      -Carol
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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Web Sites
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Nicole,

That's fantastic!  Wow!  I love it.

Thanks,

Drea (Eyeing her Flemish Genre painting scans in a whole new light)

On Wed, 9 Jul 2003, [iso-8859-1] N Kipar wrote:

>  --- Theresa Eacker <theresa@misc.com> wrote: > To Nicole-
> >
> > Where's the time-travelling feature?  Will my Netscape/iMac not allow it
> > to work or show up?
>
> It's in 'Living History' and under the chapter 'photo galleries'. The direct
> link is here:
>
> http://www.kipar.org/society/galleries_timetravel.html
>
> The coding of the siteis clean and simple, no matter which broswer or OS you
> are using, it should all work. I don't like fancy scripting that only works for
> some. If it doesn't work, then I made an error. *laughs*
>
> Nicole
>
> =====
> Men Die. Cattle Die. Word-Fame Lives Forever.   ~ Old Norse Aphorism
>
> Email: nicole@kipar.org
> URL: http://www.kipar.org
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Want to chat instantly with your online friends?  Get the FREE Yahoo!
> Messenger http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com/
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: fabric stores and men
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Gosh...I know I wouldn't give a second thought to a guy working in a
fabric
store...I for one know that my guy is better at color matching and
selection
than I'll ever be!

Talia
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
I use my DH for second opinions on color all the time too.  Of course
his favorites are black and red :).

Sorry you are having troubles Jeff.  A good friend of mine also has
problems when he goes into fabrics stores to shop, at least Hancock's or
JoAnn's.  They know him very well in the two higher-end stores here in
town and he has no problems there.  That could also be because,
especially in one of them, they are very familiar with his work and he
is an awesome costume (started in Civil War and we are sucking him into
Elizabethan, yes I'm trying to get him onto this list :). 
http://www.kcrenfest.com/PhotoGallery/Fops.html.  Jason is the
gentleman on the right and he created all 3 costumes).

I had not really thought of it before but after Jeff has brought this
up, I don't see very many men in our local fabric stores, at least the
Hancock's and JoAnn's, either working at them or shopping.  One of the
remaining, smaller, JoAnn's used to be managed by a man but he has since
left.  Both of the higher-end stores do have male employees, one is
owned by a man.  Sounds like any problems might be more with the larger
chains.

Catherine

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From: "Betsy Marshall" <betsy@softwareinnovation.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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This might explain my virtual lack of messages over the weekend-
10 or so instead of 80+
but a reasonable excuse in anyone's book.
Congratulations, and happy future!
Betsy

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Elizabeth Lear
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2003 9:53 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] list admin announcement

Sorry I haven't been available for admin concerns, but ...

I would like to announce the arrival of my son, born at 3:45am on 7/5.
He weighed 8 lbs., 14 oz., and was 20" long.  His Apgar scores were 9
and 10.  Name will be announced at the Bris on Sunday.

						...eliz


-- 
"The decision to have a child is to accept that your heart will
forever walk about outside of your body"    - Katharine Hadley




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Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 15:51:08 +0200
From: Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] QE I - how tall?
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There are some mesurements In Janet Arnolds Patterns of fashion.
They mesure from back neck to ground
1570-1580 Kirtle worn under a loose gown by a slim woman 57.5" 146.1cm
This person was probably aboud 1.66-170cm tall

Greetings,
        Deredere

>>        I hate to jump in without my references at hand, but I do know
>>that I read she was well above average in height.  At that time the well
>>to do were about on the par with us modern folk (or so I read).  I have
>>seen several references to Mary Stuart being almost six feet tall (did a
>>lot of research on her and believe this is correct).  Somehow, I always
>>thought of QE1 as being in the five foot seven to nine inch range, but,
>>like I said, I don't remember the sources.  Sorry, I doubt that this is a
>>bit of help.
>>
>>Lalah
>>Never give up, Never surrender
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OH, wow! That's wonderful news! Congratulations, Mom!
--sue

Elizabeth Lear wrote:
> 
> Sorry I haven't been available for admin concerns, but ...
> 
> I would like to announce the arrival of my son, born at 3:45am on 7/5.
> He weighed 8 lbs., 14 oz., and was 20" long.  His Apgar scores were 9
> and 10.  Name will be announced at the Bris on Sunday.
> 
>                                                 ...eliz
> 
> --
> "The decision to have a child is to accept that your heart will
> forever walk about outside of your body"    - Katharine Hadley
> 
> _______________________________________________
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric stores and men
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 10:02:37 -0400
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Most times I figure any male working in a fabric store came into it as
family business --the 'rag trade'. See it on the East coast (read that as
New York and Philly) a lot.  They usually know their stuff.  Of course most
of these places are not the JoAnn type chains and many are run by ethnics
other than 'white bread America', but not all.  It doesn't faze me a bit.
Where are you?
Kate
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jeff Brainard" <marcocaprioli@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2003 10:16 PM
Subject: [h-cost] fabric stores and men


> Here's one for you to stew over: I (at least for the present) work at a
> fabric store, only recently, and have noticed in the 3 weeks or month
> that I've been there that there's this really wierd gender dynamic
> about a guy working at a fabric store, with the customers and the
> workers. It's really really messed up in this case enough that I'm
> talking to a lawyer, but have any of you ever noticed a "ew. there's a
> MAN in the FABRIC STORE" reaction from a lot of stitch bitches? I've
> noticed it as being a customer in some stores, but never took note of
> it until now. Sorry, I'm snarky and tweaked out right now with that and
> other things and my palm pilot (subtext there reads "LIFE") dumped
> after the batteries got knocked loose by a nameless person and I'm in a
> little crisis. Lemme know what you guys think. Bjarne?
>
> Jeff
>
> __________________________________________________
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> The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo
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I haven't experienced that sort of discrimination in a fabric store (not
being male <g>), but I don't have any trouble imagining it, either.  I
guess I'd just look at it as an opportunity to educate.  Which, of
course, would get old if it happens a lot, but at least might get one
past the frustration.
I have gotten incredulous looks and minor comments about the amount of
material I buy (the whole bolt, if necessary), or washing wools and
linens in the machine (why would I possibly want that nice wool to
full??!), but really, it's only comments and not arguments.  I'd venture
to say it's a pretty safe guess that virtually none of the people who
work in most of our local little JoAnn's and Hancock's ever see many
serious costumers on a daily basis, so their frame of reference will be
someone buying a bit of that upholstery fabric for a pillow, and not the
whole bolt for a 'bethan, or buying that nice wool twill for an
interview suit, and not a 14th c. gown and hose.
--sue

Avien wrote:
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I've heard a lot saying that this isn't the case for them so I just had to
> say that you're not the only one!  My husband gets it all the time when he
> goes in there.  All the women clerks are asking him how he got roped into
> coming in with me when really we're picking out stuff for him.  The few
> times I've made him go pick stuff up for me, they ask him continuously if
> he's sure and maybe he should wait until his wife can come in with him.
> While he doesn't sew a lot, he prolly knows more than the clerks there.
> 
> Then again, I just really hate my local store.  They've asked me several
> times to bring my mom in before buying that fabric, and how dare I even
> consider to wash wool in the washing machine, and am I sure that I really
> need more than five yards of this fabric, and...  Needless to say, I will
> travel 45 minutes to go to the next closest store rather than hitting the
> one that is 15 minutes away at most.  They may still question my husband at
> times but they are much nicer about it and don't make him argue for five
> minutes before cutting the fabric.
> 
> Avien
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jeff Brainard" <marcocaprioli@yahoo.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2003 9:16 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] fabric stores and men
> 
> > Here's one for you to stew over: I (at least for the present) work at a
> > fabric store, only recently, and have noticed in the 3 weeks or month
> > that I've been there that there's this really wierd gender dynamic
> > about a guy working at a fabric store, with the customers and the
> > workers. It's really really messed up in this case enough that I'm
> > talking to a lawyer, but have any of you ever noticed a "ew. there's a
> > MAN in the FABRIC STORE" reaction from a lot of stitch bitches? I've
> > noticed it as being a customer in some stores, but never took note of
> > it until now. Sorry, I'm snarky and tweaked out right now with that and
> > other things and my palm pilot (subtext there reads "LIFE") dumped
> > after the batteries got knocked loose by a nameless person and I'm in a
> > little crisis. Lemme know what you guys think. Bjarne?
> >
> > Jeff
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo
> > http://search.yahoo.com
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> 
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Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 08:11:27 -0600
From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] QE I - how tall?
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	<013001c345db$99809100$bb7c4ed5@pavilion>
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Also, her father was notably tall.
--sue

Melanie Wilson wrote:
> 
> >I remember a comment about height even in Victorian era a streetwalker
> named
> Long Meg was 5'4", this was considered tall for a female.
> 
> Victorians (in England) were notably shorter particularly in cities than in
> some earlier time.
> 
> Generally it goes the more rural or the richer you were the more likely you
> are to reach full heigh potrential
> 
> QE1 was rich , came from rich parents so 5'4" does not seem impossible
> 
> Mel
> 
> This e-mail, and any attachment, is confidential. If you have received
> it in error, please delete it from your system, do not use or disclose
> the information in any way, and notify me immediately. The contents of
> this message may contain personal views which are not the views of the
> Company, unless specifically stated.
> 
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul  9 10:49:13 2003
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From: "Cynthia Abel" <brujne@creighton.edu>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Six Wives of Henry VIII
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 09:44:33 -0500
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Yes, I did a French hood for a 24" porcelain doll I made about five years
ago and while the metal framework was quite beyond my skills, I'm still
rather proud of it, although I didn't do a separate coif underneath as the
entire unit had to be removeable by the doll judges(lest the headdress was
hiding a flaw on the doll). I did do a wire framework covered with fabric
and had to redraw the original commercial pattern(very influenced by Anne of
the Thousand Days)to the correct shape and size. To simulate the framework,
I found two different types of antique gold braid in the right scale and set
two different sizes of half "pearls" and cabachon "gems"--faceted "gems"
look way too modern and overpower a doll's face--to get something that
looked reasonably authentic.

Cindy Abel


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <kat@grendal.rain.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2003 9:01 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Six Wives of Henry VIII


>
> > I found PBS's website for the program:
> > http://www.pbs.org/wnet/sixwives/
> >
> > Okay, will you *look* at that god-awful excuse for head gear on the
> > ladies heads???
>
> Did they get them from the same rental house that seems to provide so
> many hats?
>
> I still remember seeing the same awful French Hood from Anne of a
> Thousand Days in one of the old "Six Wives of Henry VIII" episodes.
> It was beaded or embroidered and looked like something from Victorian
> times (with the jet beaded purses although this one was gold and
> white.)
>
> People keep showing me that and saying "see, you can embroider/bead
> French Hoods" as if *that* were documentation. "But BBC always does
> such a good job on documentation, it has to be right." Yeah, sure.
>
> >From what I can find they were made of gold work as in jewellery
> work, not gold work as in beading/embroidering. All of the references
> in the Inventories of King Henry VIII were obviously jewellery work.
>
> However, if someone has inventory or extant object documentation for
> embroidery/beadwork on French Hoods, I'd like to see it. Always
> looking for more solid information on the things! (That and gabled
> hoods, especially from the c.1540 time period.)
>
> Kat
> <kat@redtrollforge.com>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric stores and men
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Our guys here have no trouble. If anyone asks, they say they're with the
local SCA, which has a large presence here (three big branches within
spitting distance of the best fabric stores around). Clerks tend to smile
and nod. :)

If a guy works in a fabric store, more power to him!

Arlys


> --- Jeff Brainard <marcocaprioli@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > Here's one for you to stew over: I (at least for the
> > present) work at a
> > fabric store, only recently, and have noticed in the
> > 3 weeks or month
> > that I've been there that there's this really wierd
> > gender dynamic
> > about a guy working at a fabric store, with the
> > customers and the
> > workers. It's really really messed up in this case
> > enough that I'm
> > talking to a lawyer, but have any of you ever
> > noticed a "ew. there's a
> > MAN in the FABRIC STORE" reaction from a lot of
> > stitch bitches? I've
> > noticed it as being a customer in some stores, but
> > never took note of
> > it until now. Sorry, I'm snarky and tweaked out
> > right now with that and
> > other things and my palm pilot (subtext there reads
> > "LIFE") dumped
> > after the batteries got knocked loose by a nameless
> > person and I'm in a
> > little crisis. Lemme know what you guys think.
> > Bjarne?
> > 
> > Jeff
> > 
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo
> > http://search.yahoo.com
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
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Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 06:53:55 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] QE I - how tall?
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I read something a long time ago that had her at about 5'2". She thought
Mary, Queen of Scots was absurdly tall.

Arlys

On Tue, 08 Jul 2003 23:38:30 +0100 Lynne Connolly
<lynneconnolly@ntlworld.com> writes:
> At 15:13 08/07/2003 -0700, you wrote:
> >How tall was Queen Elizabeth I?  What modern equivalent dress size 
> was 
> >she?  Davenport says a jacket of hers is in the Elizabeth Day 
> McCormic 
> >collection in the Boston Fine Arts Museum, if that's any help 
> (Davenport 
> >compares her size with that of a ten-year-old girl).  There must be 
> other 
> >garments of hers around, mustn't there?
> 
> There's a wax effigy of her in the museum of Westminster Abbey. It 
> was used 
> at her funeral, as was customary in those days.
> 
> 
> Lynne Connolly, GSOLFOT
> Award winning Historical Romance author.
> The Richard and Rose books from 
> <http://www.novelbooksinc.com/>Novelbooks Inc.
> YORKSHIRE, DEVONSHIRE and now VENICE
> VANESSA from <http://www.awe-struck.net/>Awe-Struck books
> http://www.geocities.com/lynne_connolly2001/  


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Congratulations! :D

Arlys

> I would like to announce the arrival of my son, born at 3:45am on 
> 7/5.
> He weighed 8 lbs., 14 oz., and was 20" long. His Apgar scores were 9
> and 10. Name will be announced at the Bris on Sunday.
> 
> ...eliz


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>I have gotten incredulous looks and minor comments about the amount of
>material I buy (the whole bolt, if necessary), or washing wools and
>linens in the machine (why would I possibly want that nice wool to
>full??!)

I think we've all gotten that. I got that look when I bought a whole bolt of 
*bright pink* linen at 2$/meter. When she asked what I wanted to do with it, 
I said "I don't know yet, but it can be dyed". The poor girl was so confused 
:-)

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> At 19:01 08/07/2003 -0700, you wrote:
> >I still remember seeing the same awful French Hood from Anne of a
> >Thousand Days in one of the old "Six Wives of Henry VIII" episodes.
> >It was beaded or embroidered and looked like something from Victorian
> >times (with the jet beaded purses although this one was gold and
> >white.)
> >
> >People keep showing me that and saying "see, you can embroider/bead
> >French Hoods" as if *that* were documentation. "But BBC always does
> >such a good job on documentation, it has to be right." Yeah, sure.
> 
> It was nothing to do with the BBC. It was produced for Channel 5, the
> 'other' terrestrial channel, ie the smallest. The recreations were
> deeply naff, I thought.

You misunderstood my post. I was saying that they probably rented the 
hats from the same place that BBC and Anne of a Thousand Days did.

You mentioned that it was Channel 5, but my comment about the BBC 
referred to people looking at the older Six Wives of Henry VIII and 
saying that it must be documentable because BBC had done it.

Unfortunately, the other SWoH8 was done on a budget (unlike the one 
also done by them near that time on Elizabeth) and they used that 
awful rental house. I was wondering if this one did as well.

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] QE I - how tall?
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On Wednesday, July 9, 2003, at 06:28  AM, Drea Leed wrote:

> If it's true that the effigy corset in Westminster was from QE's 
> store, it
> might be possible to extrapolate her height based on the height of the
> corset.  I know that it is around 21 inches around the waist, but is 
> very
> long and narrow.  Hard to believe it fit an actual woman!

Yeah, but on the "right" kind of body, a 21" corseted waist is pretty 
average.  A long torso'd woman (assuming QEI falls into this range) 
could naturally have a waist around 21" and be 5'6 or taller.  
Supermodels do it all the time.  ;)

Sarah

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-------Original Message-------
From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
Sent: 07/08/03 08:27 PM
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] QE I - how tall?

> On Tuesday 08 July 2003 06:13 pm, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> How tall was Queen Elizabeth I?  What modern equivalent dress > size was she?  Davenport says a jacket of hers is in the 
> Elizabeth Day McCormic collection in the Boston Fine Arts 
> Museum, if that's any help (Davenport compares her size with 
> that of a ten-year-old girl).  There must be other
> garments of hers around, mustn't there?

(Why do I always try to answer these questions when my books are at the other end of a 30-minute commute? Don't answer that! <g>)

It sounds like there actually _is_ some information we could access on QE I's size, rather than speculating, if someone has the right books to hand. I know Janet Arnold mentions that there's evidence that Elizabeth gained weight at one point (IIRC) and a lot of her gowns had to be remade.

As far as I know, there are _no_ surviving garments of QE I that are currently regarded as authentic. Apparently there are accounts of extensive cutting-up and giving-away of Elizabeth's clothes by Queen Anne (James's queen). A couple of things have been pointed out as possible surviving fragments, but if so, they have been re-cut and made into something else (cushion covers, decorative panels on other garments etc.) so we can't extract any size information from them. And I don't think any of them can be _proved_ to have been hers.

There are several items -- the Devereux bodice among them (which is I think what Kayta is referring to, if I remember correctly what it's called) -- that are first referenced in the 18th or 19th centuries with family stories attached that they belonged to Elizabeth. These include the stockings and the rather odd summer hat at Hatfield House, a pair of boots, a christening gown and some other odds and ends. On stylistic grounds, some of these are virtually certain to date from later centuries and couldn't have been hers, and for others there is no information one way or the other. This seems to me to be grounds for doubting the attribution of all of them unless more evidence appears. (I should, however, point out that I think there are a couple of pairs of gloves that are exceptions to this and do seem to have a better provenance.)

Also, I know we've discussed the "people were smaller back then" issue here in the past, but briefly, apparently the story isn't that simple; from skeletal studies, it seems that average people were very much our size in some periods and smaller in others; it's not a steady upward trend. Unfortunately the Victorian era, which is the "back then" that there's the most evidence for, seems to have been one where people tended to be particularly small (except the best-nourished classes, of course), which is probably why the myth got started. I believe the Elizabethan average was only an inch or so lower than ours.

____________________________________________________________
0  Chris Laning
|  <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
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> or washing wools and linens in the machine (why would I
> possibly want that nice wool to full??!)

     While it's obvious how much fabric you're going to buy, I don't bother 
mentioning whether or not I will follow the manufacturer's care label.  It's 
not like I'm planning to return it if it doesn't full properly. :-)

     -Carol

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I've found at my Joann's two types of male customers - the kind of 
guy who runs in, looks at the long line at the register and asks for 
some velcro anyway and can't understand why he should wait in the 
line because it's long and he only has one item ("can't they open up 
another register?").  The other kind is the sort of guy who usually 
buys from a better quality store but only needs lining or something; 
he's slumming.  I found it interesting that at our Joann's the new 
manager is a man and people have started going to him for questions 
rather than asking even the few sewing women who work there.  It's 
almost a sexist thing - go to theman because he's better than the 
women.  The one woman I know well who still works there is a bit 
frustrated.

Howeever, there's a Discount Fabrics nearby run by a man who seems to 
be second generation in the business and really knows his stuff.  The 
longest-term employee for the company is a man with exquisite color 
sense.  The other employees are women and some are good and some 
aren't - but they all sew.

LynnD

>At 08:17 PM 7/8/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>>Here's one for you to stew over: I (at least for the present) work at a
>>fabric store, only recently, and have noticed in the 3 weeks or month
>>that I've been there that there's this really wierd gender dynamic
>>about a guy working at a fabric store, with the customers and the
>>workers. It's really really messed up in this case enough that I'm
>>talking to a lawyer, but have any of you ever noticed a "ew. there's a
>>MAN in the FABRIC STORE" reaction from a lot of stitch bitches? I've
>>noticed it as being a customer in some stores, but never took note of
>>it until now. Sorry, I'm snarky and tweaked out right now with that and
>>other things and my palm pilot (subtext there reads "LIFE") dumped
>>after the batteries got knocked loose by a nameless person and I'm in a
>>little crisis. Lemme know what you guys think. Bjarne?
>>
>>Jeff
>
>Sorry this is happening to you.  It isn't right regardless of the 
>circumstances.  If you are competent at what you do (and if we 
>compare you to a lot of the women working in fabric stores, that 
>isn't always very difficult comparatively), then no one should care 
>about anything else about you.  Good luck, I hope that it works out. 
>maryann

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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: QE I - how tall?
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>
> It sounds like there actually _is_ some information we could access on
> QE I's size, rather than speculating, if someone has the right books to
> hand. I know Janet Arnold mentions that there's evidence that Elizabeth
> gained weight at one point (IIRC) and a lot of her gowns had to be
> remade.

I've read this, too.  I'm currently transcribing the wardrobe accounts
Arnold based QEWU on (but didn't bother to publish :P ) and there are
several reference in 1573 and 1574 to "enlarginge and pecing bodies" of
various gowns.

Unfortunately, in all the looking I've done, I've found no measurements of
height. In Turberville's book of hunting, she is depicted as only a few
inches shorter than the surrounding men...though how much of this is fact
and how much glorification is unknown.

BTW, speaking of Elizabethan stuff: I have been looking for a source for
"bent rope", or twisted rope made out of 1 to 1.5 mm reeds, for a while
now with no luck.  Anyone have any ideas or sources for such a thing?

Thanks,

Drea

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] QE I - how tall?
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In a message dated 7/9/2003 8:29:28 AM Central Standard Time, drea@nospam 
writes:

> If it's true that the effigy corset in Westminster was from QE's store, it
> might be possible to extrapolate her height based on the height of the
> corset.  I know that it is around 21 inches around the waist, but is very
> long and narrow.  Hard to believe it fit an actual woman!
> 

Anybody know what the exact measurements of the back length, shoulder width, 
etc?

-Sarra Wryght
Elizabethan Dress Journals: http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/index.html
Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
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In a message dated 7/9/2003 11:11:41 AM Central Standard Time, 
drea@nospam writes:

> BTW, speaking of Elizabethan stuff: I have been looking for a source for
> "bent rope", or twisted rope made out of 1 to 1.5 mm reeds, for a while
> now with no luck.  Anyone have any ideas or sources for such a thing?
> 

Buy a a big ol' coil of reed, boiled 'em up, grab some buddies and sturdy 
gloves and start a-twistin'?

Man, I'm not helpful this morning
-Sarra Wryght
Elizabethan Dress Journals: http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/index.html
Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
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From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20030709120501.K1438-100000@shell.siscom.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: QE I - how tall?
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 17:30:07 +0100
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Drea wrote:
>
> Unfortunately, in all the looking I've done, I've found no
measurements of
> height.

I assume people are familiar with her exchange with the Scottish
Ambassador on this question; I'm not aware of any other direct
evidence. Since I am rather short I don't want to know, either...

best wishes
Stevie

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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: QE I - how tall?
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Ah heck, I'm lazy. :) If it's for sale anywhere, I'd rather buy it.

But it's looking more and more like I'll have to make some myself...I get
the whole rope making concept, but am puzzled as to how to splice new
reeds in and keep the circumference of the whole thing even.

Drea

On Wed, 9 Jul 2003 LoreleiMorte@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 7/9/2003 11:11:41 AM Central Standard Time,
> drea@nospam writes:
>
> > BTW, speaking of Elizabethan stuff: I have been looking for a source for
> > "bent rope", or twisted rope made out of 1 to 1.5 mm reeds, for a while
> > now with no luck.  Anyone have any ideas or sources for such a thing?
> >
>
> Buy a a big ol' coil of reed, boiled 'em up, grab some buddies and sturdy
> gloves and start a-twistin'?
>
> Man, I'm not helpful this morning
> -Sarra Wryght
> Elizabethan Dress Journals: http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/index.html
> Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 12:35:57 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: QE I - how tall?
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In a message dated 7/9/2003 11:33:06 AM Central Standard Time, 
drea@nospam writes:

> Ah heck, I'm lazy. :) If it's for sale anywhere, I'd rather buy it.
> 
> But it's looking more and more like I'll have to make some myself...I get
> the whole rope making concept, but am puzzled as to how to splice new
> reeds in and keep the circumference of the whole thing even.
> 

You've probably already thought of this, but there's a lot of furniture made 
out of what looks like twisted ropes of reeds...it's gotta come from 
somewhere..

-Sarra Wryght
Elizabethan Dress Journals: http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/index.html
Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
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Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 09:39:56 -0700
From: Dawn Jacobson <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric stores and men
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At 07:16 PM 7/8/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>Here's one for you to stew over: I (at least for the present) work at a
>fabric store, only recently, and have noticed in the 3 weeks or month
>that I've been there that there's this really wierd gender dynamic
>about a guy working at a fabric store, with the customers and the
>workers. It's really really messed up in this case enough that I'm
>talking to a lawyer, but have any of you ever noticed a "ew. there's a
>MAN in the FABRIC STORE" reaction from a lot of stitch bitches? I've
>noticed it as being a customer in some stores, but never took note of
>it until now. Sorry, I'm snarky and tweaked out right now with that and
>other things and my palm pilot (subtext there reads "LIFE") dumped
>after the batteries got knocked loose by a nameless person and I'm in a
>little crisis. Lemme know what you guys think. Bjarne?
>
>Jeff

I was curious (and a little put off by the description "stitch bitches"), 
so I asked Stephen, my local expert on being a guy, if he got the feeling 
that women were doing the "Eeeeewwwwww, there's a guy in our store," thing, 
and he said yes. OTOH, if he goes in for something specific and asks the 
clerks, they are immediately very helpful.

He compared the reaction he gets to the one I get when I walk into a gun 
store--rather condescending, or completely ignored.

Dawn

Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are the costumes we wear every day. 
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Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 09:44:06 -0700
From: Dawn Jacobson <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] list admin announcement
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At 08:53 PM 7/8/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>Sorry I haven't been available for admin concerns, but ...
>
>I would like to announce the arrival of my son, born at 3:45am on 7/5.
>He weighed 8 lbs., 14 oz., and was 20" long.  His Apgar scores were 9
>and 10.  Name will be announced at the Bris on Sunday.
>
>                                                 ...eliz

Mazel Tov!

Dawn


Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are the costumes we wear every day. 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: QE I - how tall?
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In a message dated 7/9/2003 11:36:48 AM Central Standard Time, 
LoreleiMorte@aol.com writes:

> 
> You've probably already thought of this, but there's a lot of furniture made 
> 
> out of what looks like twisted ropes of reeds...it's gotta come from 
> somewhere..
> 

Woo, I'm replying to myself. I was curious about Drea's reed rope problem and 
while I didn't find any reed ropes, (did find some braided reed rope, but I 
don't think that's what she's looking for) did find a lot of cool stuff that 
could be used for neato things like corsets and corded petticoats, etc...

<A HREF="http://www.franksupply.com/basketry.html">http://www.franksupply.com/basketry.html</A>

Any Cane Chair making website seems to have lots of neat stuff, and dirt 
cheap. 

-Sarra Wryght
Elizabethan Dress Journals: http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/index.html
Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
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Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 10:02:24 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dawn Jacobson <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric stores and men
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At 02:42 AM 7/9/2003 -0400, Christine wrote:

<snip>
>However, in New York City, which is where I highly prefer to shop, since it's
>really only 10 minutes more on the road than JoAnn's, no one bats an eye at
>all the male clerks, cutters, etc.  My "usual" store, on Broadway (P&S 
>Fabrics)
>is made up of an entirely male staff with the exception of one or two women.
>And the fashion fabric guy knows me there, so I can sometimes get discounts.
>He also didn't bat an eye when I bought $300 worth of fabric for a school
>play.

<snip>

And this sums up all the reasons I drive to Los Angeles 2-3 times a year to 
make a big purchase of fabrics. Our local Hancock's is OK for little things 
(I nearly cleaned them out when they marked all their notions 50% off and I 
"stocked up"), and JoAnn's is a laughingstock. I deal mostly with fabric 
jobbers, and I would say that with only a couple of exceptions they are all 
men, and all have grown up with some connection with the "shmatte trade." 
Also, these guys are willing to haggle--when was the last time you could 
"lean" on the clerk in JoAnn's or Hancock's and get them to drop the price 
another 20% if you take the entire bolt?

Dawn

Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are the costumes we wear every day. 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:dress form help/regency
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Irene wrote:
> OK, so how do you manage the lacing up the back? All I
> could think of was to turn the back to the front, lace
> it and then twist it back.

The trick is to have a long enough lace that you don't have to actually
lace it each time you wear it... you just loosen it to take it off, and
tighten it to put it on.  Also, having a secondary front fastening (like
the hook-and-eye busks you see) makes it better because you don't have
to unlace it so far to get out of it, and so it doesn't get all loopy
and hard to figure out later.

K.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] QE I - how tall?
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 10:52:30 -0400
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I also have no data at all but a while ago I recall reading that Mry Stuart
was close to 6' and that genetic doctor's claim she had some disease that
made the bones long and the people highly strung and that it was a stuart
malady. Her father was prone to mood fits and was overly tall. Anyone recall
this??

Bice
http://www.livejournal.com/users/jaie/
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <catpurson@juno.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2003 8:52 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] QE I - how tall?


>         I hate to jump in without my references at hand, but I do know
> that I read she was well above average in height.  At that time the well
> to do were about on the par with us modern folk (or so I read).  I have
> seen several references to Mary Stuart being almost six feet tall (did a
> lot of research on her and believe this is correct).  Somehow, I always
> thought of QE1 as being in the five foot seven to nine inch range, but,
> like I said, I don't remember the sources.  Sorry, I doubt that this is a
> bit of help.
>
> Lalah
> Never give up, Never surrender
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] clothing on display at Colonial Williamsburg?
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     You're in luck, Melanie!  The De Witt Wallace presently has a huge costume 
exhibit up.  They're in a much bigger space that what is normally used for 
textiles & clothing.  The exhibit is up (I think) through November and is very 
much worth seeing.

     -Carol


> I'll be taking a road trip at the end of next week, and I'd like to 
> visit Colonial Williamsburg on the way since I've never been there.  I 
> was wondering if any of their historic clothing collection is on 
> display?  I believe Ron Carnegie works there and is also on this list...Ron?

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Greetings

I'll be taking a road trip at the end of next week, and I'd like to 
visit Colonial Williamsburg on the way since I've never been there.  I 
was wondering if any of their historic clothing collection is on 
display?  I believe Ron Carnegie works there and is also on this list...Ron?

Thanks,
Melanie Schuessler
http://www.faucet.net/costume

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In a message dated 7/9/2003 1:50:16 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
aquazoo@patriot.net writes:

> The exhibit is up (I think) through November and is very 
> much worth seeing.
> 

Ditto.

Ann Wass
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It is!! Mazel tov!!


Bice
http://www.livejournal.com/users/jaie/
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Margo Anderson" <margo@margospatterns.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>; "Historical Costume"
<h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2003 11:05 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] list admin announcement


> Congratulations!  that's wonderful news!
>
> Margo
>
>
> "One Tough Costumer"
>
> www.margospatterns.com
> _______________________________________________
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>
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Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 10:54:54 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric stores and men
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I live in the San Francisco Bay Area. Although most fabric store employees 
here seem to be women, some are men. Britex, the big-fancy-expensive store, 
has a couple of male clerks, the same ones for years. Since Britex's policy 
is to help customers find fabrics whether they want help or not, I try to 
hook up with my favorite clerk, who is one of the men. He's the one who 
best seems to understand what I am doing and to provide actual help finding 
things.  In Oakland there is a store called Silk Road that is owned by two 
men who also staff it. They seem knowledgeable about fabric, and no one 
seems to have problems buying from them. I've also seen male clerks on 
occasion at other stores.

My husband can only sew a little, but he's pretty good with finding fabric, 
matching thread, etc. I often send him on errands, as in "pick up the 
following thread and notions for me on the way home," or to other parts of 
the store when we are both in it. As far as I can tell, all the clerks 
treat him like any other customer.

One factor is that, some clerks at some stores think it's weird to buy 
costuming type fabrics or the large quantities often needed. This has 
nothing to do with gender.  Female clerks sometimes do it to me--look 
askance at me when I buy 10 yards of a fabric instead of the 3 or so they 
expect customers to buy.

Fran

At 07:02 AM 7/9/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>Our guys here have no trouble. If anyone asks, they say they're with the
>local SCA, which has a large presence here (three big branches within
>spitting distance of the best fabric stores around). Clerks tend to smile
>and nod. :)
>
>If a guy works in a fabric store, more power to him!
>
>Arlys

Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com
Historic and Vintage Dance
http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance 

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From: Brenda <webwarren@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Re: [h-cost] Caraco jacket fantasy?
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Carol Kocian <aquazoo@patriot.net> wrote:

>      Beware - the Distaff Sketch Book is a bad source.  Anything decent 
> is plagerized without citation.  That's why the same caraco is in Arnold, 
> it's copied from there.

I figured as much about it being a bad source, and seeing the same caraco 
copied, well... I was just looking for examples to describe to Bjarne. It 
was an inexpensive publication that was enough to satisfy my interest at 
the time, and it's not a period that I've researched in any detail whatsoever.

I hoped to have put in enough info in my previous post to give the list an 
idea of the reliability (or lack thereof!) of the source. Thanks for the 
confirmation of it in more detail.

>A much better book was recently published - Whatever Shall I Wear, A Guide 
>to Assembling a Woman's Basic 18th Century Wardrobe by Mara Riley, 
>illustrated by Kate Johnson.  There's not much about caracos specifically, 
>but it's a well-researched, beautifully illustrated book!

Sounds interesting... something to add to the list of things I might like 
to look at at some future date (too busy right now, and looking primarily 
at other places/periods).



Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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To Nicole-

Got it!!! Thanks so much for your time.  What a wonderful new site, 
although the old one was quite valuable and fun to prowl around in also!!!

Theresa Eacker

N Kipar wrote:

> 
> It's in 'Living History' and under the chapter 'photo galleries'. The direct
> link is here:
> 
> http://www.kipar.org/society/galleries_timetravel.html

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The DeWitt - Wallace has a room just for clothing and embroidery (and 
other textiles)... Unless they're in the middle of making a major change 
to the exhibit there's always something.

Having said that, as a heads up...  Double check the hours of the room 
before you head over there.  I know that someone told me that it's 
always open now, but just a few years ago it had fairly limited hours... 
which weren't actually listed on the program for the Colonial area.  *G* 
I got *very* *very* lucky... I was complaining (nicely, but I was very 
unhappy because I had to leave the area before it was supposed to open 
for the afternoon) at the information desk about how it was mentioned 
specifically, but that no mention had been given of the limited hours, 
and I had walked all the way over there *just* for that exhibit... and 
one of the curators for the room just happened to be nearby, and on her 
way to the room.  She was *so* nice... not only did she let me in, but 
she let me stay there all by my lonesome in the (then) locked room when 
she had to leave about 30 min. later... though she did turn the lights 
by the doors off .... no prob, I was checking out the samplers at that 
point :-)  .... Best ever trip for me there... I had the chance at a 30 
min chat with the Tailor who happened to be in "his shop" that day as 
well... about stays, corsets, and undertrimmings in general.)

I'm going to have to chose between CW and the Jamestown (including the 
re-enactment area) this year... kiddies are coming along, so I'm 
thinking it'll be Jamestown this summer....

-Elisabeth


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aquazoo@patriot.net wrote:
>      You're in luck, Melanie!  The De Witt Wallace presently has a huge costume 
> exhibit up.  They're in a much bigger space that what is normally used for 
> textiles & clothing.  The exhibit is up (I think) through November and is very 
> much worth seeing.

Oooh!  Thanks!

rubbing hands gleefully...
Melanie

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Cozit / Liz wrote:
> The DeWitt - Wallace has a room just for clothing and embroidery (and 
> other textiles)... Unless they're in the middle of making a major change 
> to the exhibit there's always something.
> 
> Having said that, as a heads up...  Double check the hours of the room 
> before you head over there.

Ah--thanks.  I'll check on that before I leave.

Melanie


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     It's worth checking the hours, and the textiles room does have limited 
hours.  The current exhibit, however, should be open any time the museum is 
open.  It's a very special thing!  Usually that area has furniture, though I 
think it has always been major exhibits that change every year.

     -Carol

Cozit / Liz <cozit@comcast.net> said:
> Having said that, as a heads up...  Double check the hours of the room 
> before you head over there.  I know that someone told me that it's 
> always open now, but just a few years ago it had fairly limited hours... 
> which weren't actually listed on the program for the Colonial area.  *G* 

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From: KKlocko@aol.com
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] More Gothic fitted dress fitting questions
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Hello,

I've recently been interested in making a Gothic Fitted dress for myself, however, for various medical reasons my weight keeps changing, plus I can't stand pressure on my abdomen.  Which fitting method (curved front or straight front) would be best?  Help?  Is there any way to make this dress accomodate large fluctuations in weight?

Robin? Tasha? Anyone?
    --Kathy K.


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Mazel Tov!

Pam Dotson
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Elizabeth Lear" <eliz@indra.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2003 7:53 PM
Subject: [h-cost] list admin announcement


> Sorry I haven't been available for admin concerns, but ...
> 
> I would like to announce the arrival of my son, born at 3:45am on 7/5.
> He weighed 8 lbs., 14 oz., and was 20" long.  His Apgar scores were 9
> and 10.  Name will be announced at the Bris on Sunday.
> 
> ...eliz
> 
> 
> -- 
> "The decision to have a child is to accept that your heart will
> forever walk about outside of your body"    - Katharine Hadley
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
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Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 12:58:05 -0700
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Subject: [h-cost] Three middle-class English Women picture online?
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Okay, I give up..who can tell me where I can find a picture of the three
middle-class English Women (gossips?) online?  I know I've seen it
somewhere, but can't, for the life of me, find it now!

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Sg

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: splicing, was Re: [h-cost] Re: QE I - how tall?
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A long splice is used to join rope pieces together. It is not lumpy 
(when done properly - takes practice) and was developed to allow the 
spliced rope to travel through pulleys and eyes and not bind or jam.
Here is a page with instructions
http://www.wdcra.org.uk/study/long.htm
I have no idea how this would work with reed.

liz young

Drea Leed wrote:

>Ah heck, I'm lazy. :) If it's for sale anywhere, I'd rather buy it.
>
>But it's looking more and more like I'll have to make some myself...I get
>the whole rope making concept, but am puzzled as to how to splice new
>reeds in and keep the circumference of the whole thing even.
>
>Drea
>
>On Wed, 9 Jul 2003 LoreleiMorte@aol.com wrote:
>
>  
>
>>In a message dated 7/9/2003 11:11:41 AM Central Standard Time,
>>drea@nospam writes:
>>
>>    
>>
>>>BTW, speaking of Elizabethan stuff: I have been looking for a source for
>>>"bent rope", or twisted rope made out of 1 to 1.5 mm reeds, for a while
>>>now with no luck.  Anyone have any ideas or sources for such a thing?
>>>
>>>      
>>>
>>Buy a a big ol' coil of reed, boiled 'em up, grab some buddies and sturdy
>>gloves and start a-twistin'?
>>
>>Man, I'm not helpful this morning
>>-Sarra Wryght
>>    
>>



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From: "Betsy Marshall" <betsy@softwareinnovation.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] US Airline restrictions - sewing stuff (?)
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 09:23:59 -0500
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Run down to the sewing or quilting store- there is a little round thread
cutter that is only a couple of dollars- it has several slots for the
thread to fall into to touch the cutting blade-which is permanently
covered. I have one I wear to camping events, on a necklace or string it
is handy and almost un-losable, and passes for a pendant. Worth a
look-see. Betsy

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of ConstanceFairfax@cs.com
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 9:12 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] US Airline restrictions - sewing stuff (?)

Hi-

I'm making a coast-to-coast run this weekend with fairly long layovers &
I'd like to get some hemming/handwork finished.  Since 9/11, I know some
of my coworkers have had their manicure set scissors taken away.  

I want to be completely on the up-and-up, but I also don't want to be
bored out of my skull.  Have any of you traveled in the US lately with
sewing implements?  Are needles (little sharps) ok?  How about snips?  I
assume ghingers are still out. I can imagine trying to get through with
a set of pinking shears. :)

Constance
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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] US Airline restrictions - sewing stuff (?)
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Little scissors are apparently bad juju (after all, we have to protect
upstanding americans from the rampaging masses of commuting homicidal
seamstresses out there), but in some cases, nail-clippers make it
through.  I use my teeth.

As for needles: again, technically they aren't allowed. Apparently the
airport security forces are convinced that Terrorist X will attempt to
poke someone to death with a needle rather than, say, the far more deadly
ballpoint pen or number 2 pencil, both of which are allowed.

But you can unscrew a metal ballpoint pen and slip a needle inside, and it
will go through the carry-on scan just fine.

Not that I would EVER do something illegal like that, or advocate such
activity to any other parties.

;>



On Thu, 10 Jul 2003 ConstanceFairfax@cs.com wrote:

> Hi-
>
> I'm making a coast-to-coast run this weekend with fairly long layovers
& I'd like to get some hemming/handwork finished.  Since 9/11, I know
some of my coworkers have had their manicure set scissors taken away.
>
> I want to be completely on the up-and-up, but I also don't want to be
bored out of my skull.  Have any of you traveled in the US lately with
sewing implements?  Are needles (little sharps) ok?  How about snips?  I assume ghingers are still out. I can imagine trying to get through with a set of pinking shears. :)
>
> Constance
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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In a message dated 7/10/2003 8:15:28 AM Central Standard Time, 
melanie@faucet.net writes:

> This whole experiment sounds fascinating!
> 
> Drea Leed wrote:
> 
> >I'm really looking forward to making a farthingale out of it.  I think
> >I'll do the spiral-up-the-farthingale method, rather than separate rings,
> >to avoid kinking.
> 
> I can picture this, but I've never heard of it--was it done in the 16th 
> century?
> 

Any chance you have a digital camera and want to slap a few pics on the 'net 
of the process? 

-Sarra Wryght
Elizabethan Dress Journals: http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/index.html
Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
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Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 10:33:37 -0400 (EDT)
From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope
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Sure thang!

I'll be bringing it to Push to work on...will you be there?

Drea


On Thu, 10 Jul 2003 LoreleiMorte@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 7/10/2003 8:15:28 AM Central Standard Time,
> melanie@faucet.net writes:
>
> > This whole experiment sounds fascinating!
> >
> > Drea Leed wrote:
> >
> > >I'm really looking forward to making a farthingale out of it.  I think
> > >I'll do the spiral-up-the-farthingale method, rather than separate rings,
> > >to avoid kinking.
> >
> > I can picture this, but I've never heard of it--was it done in the 16th
> > century?
> >
>
> Any chance you have a digital camera and want to slap a few pics on the 'net
> of the process?
>
> -Sarra Wryght
> Elizabethan Dress Journals: http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/index.html
> Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: sheree krasley <ladybrynn@yahoo.com>
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As the victim...er model for Tasha, I have to say from my own experience that the front curved gown seemed to have much less tightness across the abdomen. The straight front seam felt like it was much more confining across the ribs and becuase of that the diaphragm could not expand properly, hence the corseted feeling.
Now I know some of the pre 1340's style gowns were not nearly a tighly fit along to torso as well as some of the Italian styles. If tighness across the abdomen is an issue I would look to those styles, they still look quite wonderful and would be much more comfortable.
 
- Sheree
 
PS I had a lot of fun working with Tasha, learned tons and got two great gowns out of it to boot. :)


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Redneck fabric stores and men
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Fabric with tractors on it?  You could do a historical interpretation of a WWII-era dress.  Picture this:  a woman writing to her boyfriend overseas, saying she's breaking off the engagement to stay home & work on the farm--a John Deere letter.  Dear John, get it?  

Ramona
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] US Airline restrictions - sewing stuff (?)
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Thank you ever so much Drea for NOT letting us know about this trick! *big
grin*  That's so nifty...

As for thread cutting: I say it again, take a dental floss package with you.

Nicole
 
--- Drea Leed <drea@nospam> wrote: > 
> Little scissors are apparently bad juju (after all, we have to protect
> upstanding americans from the rampaging masses of commuting homicidal
> seamstresses out there), but in some cases, nail-clippers make it
> through.  I use my teeth.
> 
> As for needles: again, technically they aren't allowed. Apparently the
> airport security forces are convinced that Terrorist X will attempt to
> poke someone to death with a needle rather than, say, the far more deadly
> ballpoint pen or number 2 pencil, both of which are allowed.
> 
> But you can unscrew a metal ballpoint pen and slip a needle inside, and it
> will go through the carry-on scan just fine.
> 
> Not that I would EVER do something illegal like that, or advocate such
> activity to any other parties.
> 
> ;>
> 
> 
> 
> On Thu, 10 Jul 2003 ConstanceFairfax@cs.com wrote:
> 
> > Hi-
> >
> > I'm making a coast-to-coast run this weekend with fairly long layovers
> & I'd like to get some hemming/handwork finished.  Since 9/11, I know
> some of my coworkers have had their manicure set scissors taken away.
> >
> > I want to be completely on the up-and-up, but I also don't want to be
> bored out of my skull.  Have any of you traveled in the US lately with
> sewing implements?  Are needles (little sharps) ok?  How about snips?  I
> assume ghingers are still out. I can imagine trying to get through with a set
> of pinking shears. :)
> >
> > Constance
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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=====
Men Die. Cattle Die. Word-Fame Lives Forever.   ~ Old Norse Aphorism

Email: nicole@kipar.org
URL: http://www.kipar.org

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This whole experiment sounds fascinating!

Drea Leed wrote:

> I'm really looking forward to making a farthingale out of it.  I think
> I'll do the spiral-up-the-farthingale method, rather than separate rings,
> to avoid kinking.

I can picture this, but I've never heard of it--was it done in the 16th 
century?

Thanks for keeping us up-to-date!

Melanie Schuessler
http://www.faucet.net/costume

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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: splicing, was Re: [h-cost] Re: QE I - how tall?
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> Hi, All. In this case, a rope splice would not be applicable, but it is
> possible that reeds could be joined in some way and wrapped, similarly
> to the method used for the hoops on barrels and buckets seen in 16th
> Cent. paintings.

Yup, that's what I ended up doing--taking a bunch, twisting it slightly,
and wrapping it tightly with artificial sinew.  Nice to know there's a
period example of something like this. :)  Do you have the names of any
pictures that show buckets & barrels with hoops like this?

 Just a musing thought... In addition, anything that is
> made of long fibers joined together has breaks in the fibers at some
> point... the idea is to keep the breaks away from each other, and the
> spin of the fibers will bind the lot together along the whole length (if
> this makes any sense)  Mike T.

The reeds are pretty bulky; 20 of them create a 5/8 inch diameter cord.
I'm going to try hand-twisting some into a two strand rope once I've
finished with this method, to see what sort of differences I find between
the two methods.

Thanks,

Drea


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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:  QE I - how tall?
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> My opinion on the effigy corset is that it wasn't made specifically
> *for* Elizabeth and then put to use on the effigy after her death.
> Call it costumer's intuition, but I think it was likely made
> specifically for the effigy after her death, in the style of the time.
> There's no real evidence that I've seen that suggests it was actually
> worn on a living human being (and the fact that the stays are in such
> good condition is probably the best testament to this), and I don't
> think I've ever come across sources that say whether or not the effigy
> was even meant to *resemble* QEI's actual figure, or if it was, say,
> taken from a lady in waiting's measurements, etc.    There is a photo
> of the corset on the effigy:
> http://www.elizabethi.org/wardrobe/corset.htm
>

Here's what Janet Arnold had to say on the subject:

"In the course of restoration in 1995 it was discovered that the original
wooden armature of the 1603 effigy had been reused in 1760, complete with
the original grass padding, drawers, and corset or 'paire of
straight-bodies'. This unique garment is likely to have been one of a
stock of corsets kept ready for use, needing only to be lined with
 silk before being worn by the Queen.  Its use on the effigy would have
made it easy to shape the body to represent the Queen's figure correctly."

and

"The 'pair of straight bodies' provided by John Colte were probably made
by Queen Elizabeth's tailor, William Jones, or one of his journeymen;
full details of the maker are not given in the accounts.  They were
probably made specially for the effigy and are unlikely to have been an
old pair worn by the Queen, as those listed in the tailor's warrants for
her Wardrobe of Robes are covered with silk or satin."

Unfortunately, the summary about the stays in the Westminster Library
(which the above is quoted from) doesn't go into details about where she
got her information, or what caused her to come to the above conclusions.
There will be a pattern for and notes on the effigy corset in her
posthumous pattern book (if it ever comes out...) so hopefully there will
be a bit more information about it in there.

Drea


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Redneck fabric stores and men
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In a message dated 7/9/2003 9:05:27 PM Eastern Standard Time, lynnx@grics.net 
writes:

> Where i live you can't find gingham 
> (I like the 1" for mockups) 

I don't know why this is getting so hard to find everywhere!
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: fabric stores and men
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In a message dated 7/9/2003 10:05:22 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
marcocaprioli@yahoo.com writes:

> it's Hancock's I'm having problems with. 

And of course most of Hancock's top management is male.  What about your 
(former) DM?

You are probably better off elsewhere, though.  I know from experience that 
Hancock's pay is not exactly what I would call competitive.  (And I still have 
fabric I bought when I worked there that I will probably never make up!  I'm 
in the process of giving much of it away.  My tastes and interests have changed 
since I worked there.)

Ann Wass
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Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 23:30:37 -0700
From: Jennifer Potts <jenpotts@shaw.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] Blackwork shift questions/beading questions
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Sorry about my addition to this thread being so behind.  Im packing my house to move right now and am VERY behind in my reading.

I have a picture of an extant Italian chemise with embroidery around the neck and down the sleeves and body of the chemise.  The embroidery goes all the way around the neckline.  As soon as I can find it, I will post it on my website for you if you would like.  Im sorry, I cant even give you a book to look for right now.  All my books are packed and have left for Kamloops already.

You can contact me privately if you would like a copy.

Jennifer Potts
aka Senor Giacyntha Francesca Maria Cocchetti,
Shire of Ramsgaard, SCA


Message: 1
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 06:37:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: Cascio Michael <rosenau5@yahoo.com>
Subject: [h-cost] blackwork shift questions/beading questions
To: h-costume@net.indra.com
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Hi All,
   I'm finally caught up on my posts and have a few
questions.
   On square neck Elizabethan shifts with the
blackwork embroidery around the edge of the square
neck would the embroidery go around the entire edge or
would it just be a band across the front where it
would show?  I know Janet Arnold mentions a square
neck shift somewhere but I don't recall ever seeing a
picture of it anywhere.  I'm working on a shift with
the low square neck and blackwork on the cuffs as per
the Helena Snakenborg, although you can't see her
shift sleeves underneath that beautifully embroidered
partlet and sleeves.
   Second question---One of the beading magazines I
pick up occasionally has some choker patterns that I
thought would make nice beaded trims.  The chokers
were made with a light weight gauge wire but as I want
to sew these patterns down to a garment edge should I
use wire and make the choker as per the instructions
and then sew it onto the velvet?  Since I was going to
put a band of velvet along the edge of the sleeves and
hem, like a guard, I could stitch each bead down to
the velvet and then take it off should I need to clean
the garment.  And since I'm going to put these on a
garment should I use flat beads or the round beads the
pattern suggests?
    Any help would be most appreciated.
                                 Cassandra 

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Bice wrote:

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com 07/09/03 03:52pm >>>
>I also have no data at all but a while ago I recall reading that Mry
Stuart
>was close to 6' and that genetic doctor's claim she had some disease
that
>made the bones long and the people highly strung and that it was a
stuart
>malady. Her father was prone to mood fits and was overly tall. Anyone
>recall this??

The Channel 4 series "Royal Deaths and Diseases", shown earlier this
year, suggested that Mary and her son James may have had porphyria, the
condition thought to have caused George III's madness.
http://www.channel4.com/history/microsites/H/history/heads/footnotes/disease04.html

though this wouldn't have affected her height, AFAIK.

{The series was interesting but not entirely consistent with itself.
The programme on mental illness claimed that King George was actually
manic depressive.)


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From: "Genie" <kerowyn@mindspring.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20030710020418.82383.qmail@web11404.mail.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: fabric stores and men
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 07:20:58 -0500
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Jeff,

you gotta consider where Hancock's is based, one of the owner's is named
"Bubba" for gosh sakes.  No joke.  And yes the manager of the store I work
at is a man.  they still want us to do everything on a skeleton staff, and
given the level of knowledge on sewing or lack of that most of our young
staff has, oh well.

Genie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Brainard" <marcocaprioli@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2003 9:04 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: fabric stores and men


> yeah, it's Hancock's I'm having problems with. I wonder if part of it
> is sideways homophobia. I took a new job today, so cross your fingers
> girls!
>
> Jeff
>
>
> >
> > Sorry you are having troubles Jeff.  A good friend of mine also has
> > problems when he goes into fabrics stores to shop, at least Hancock's
> > or
> > JoAnn's.  They know him very well in the two higher-end stores here
> > in
> > town and he has no problems there.  That could also be because,
> > especially in one of them, they are very familiar with his work and
> > he
> > is an awesome costume (started in Civil War and we are sucking him
> > into
> > Elizabethan, yes I'm trying to get him onto this list :).
> > http://www.kcrenfest.com/PhotoGallery/Fops.html.  Jason is the
> > gentleman on the right and he created all 3 costumes).
> >
> > I had not really thought of it before but after Jeff has brought this
> > up, I don't see very many men in our local fabric stores, at least
> > the
> > Hancock's and JoAnn's, either working at them or shopping.  One of
> > the
> > remaining, smaller, JoAnn's used to be managed by a man but he has
> > since
> > left.  Both of the higher-end stores do have male employees, one is
> > owned by a man.  Sounds like any problems might be more with the
> > larger
> > chains.
> >
> > Catherine
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Caraco Redingote?
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It looks really good. I've been wanting a piece like that for quite some
time myself, I'll be following along with great interest.

Karen

On Wed, 9 Jul 2003 22:57:18 +0200 "Bjarne og Leif Drews"
<drewscph@post12.tele.dk> writes:
> Hello again,
> My my, i cant cope with all those letters send every day,
> But here is my dress diary of the Caraco or Redingote?
> 
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/caraco_jacket.htm
> 
> I think i have made it all right anyway.
> It helped a lot when some of you said i should look at Jefferson In 
> Paris
> 
> Let me know what you think about it!
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Web Sites
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 --- Theresa Eacker <theresa@misc.com> wrote: > To Nicole-
> 
> Got it!!! Thanks so much for your time.  What a wonderful new site, 
> although the old one was quite valuable and fun to prowl around in also!!!

Thank you Theresa, well it is pretty much the same as the old site, at least
when it comes to contents, and actually there are more images than before, but
I did remove some pages I did not deem accurate enough or good enough anymore,
and mainly, I re-structured it, to reflect the society as well as the research
aspect.

It wouldn't have taken so long, if I still switched on the computer at home
except for rarely...

Nicole

=====
Men Die. Cattle Die. Word-Fame Lives Forever.   ~ Old Norse Aphorism

Email: nicole@kipar.org
URL: http://www.kipar.org

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 --- "H. Law" <lynnx@grics.net> wrote: > Wheee!  Whose graphic work is that?
Smooth!
> 
> Heather L

Thanks! It's mine, but I must say looking at it, that I could have done it
better *laughs* One is never content, is one? ;-)

Nicole - still finding lotsof little glitches on the new site...

=====
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Email: nicole@kipar.org
URL: http://www.kipar.org

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: QE I - how tall?
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>There are several items -- the Devereux bodice among them (which is I 
>think what Kayta is referring to, if I remember correctly what it's called)

The Devereux bodice is a bodice with a pointed waist in front (I couldn't 
tell how it was embroidered in the auction house picture I saw), and the 
garment in Boston is a crewel-embroidered, front-opening jacket-thing.  Two 
different garments.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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From: "Cabbage Rose" <cabbagerose@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20030709025314.GA5185@net.indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] list admin new baby boy
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 14:13:59 -0700
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Mazel Tov

angela lazear
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Elizabeth Lear" <eliz@indra.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2003 7:53 PM
Subject: [h-cost] list admin announcement


> Sorry I haven't been available for admin concerns, but ...
> 
> I would like to announce the arrival of my son, born at 3:45am on 7/5.
> He weighed 8 lbs., 14 oz., and was 20" long.  His Apgar scores were 9
> and 10.  Name will be announced at the Bris on Sunday.
> 
> ...eliz
> 
> 
> -- 
> "The decision to have a child is to accept that your heart will
> forever walk about outside of your body"    - Katharine Hadley
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Three middle-class English Women picture online?
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Saragrace T. Knauf wrote:
> Okay, I give up..who can tell me where I can find a picture of the three
> middle-class English Women (gossips?) online?  I know I've seen it
> somewhere, but can't, for the life of me, find it now!

Well, you didn't specify a century, but do you mean this one?  Only 
three of them are middle class...

http://costume.dm.net/gallery/middle-wmn.html

Melanie Schuessler
http://www.faucet.net/costume


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <5.1.0.14.0.20030709113810.045dd008@mail.earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Re: [h-cost] Caraco jacket fantasy?
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 23:07:37 +0200
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Hi Brenda, and Carrol two
I much apreciated the help you have given me.
Belive me, it is very difficult to make something in between of real fashion
and reallity.
The fashion print i was looking at was french, and it called the dress to be
Asiatique whatever that is,
But then it was very fashionabble to dress exotic in those
days...............
I have now desided to make it this way:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/caraco_jacket.htm

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brenda" <webwarren@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2003 5:46 PM
Subject: Re: Re: Re: [h-cost] Caraco jacket fantasy?


> Carol Kocian <aquazoo@patriot.net> wrote:
>
> >      Beware - the Distaff Sketch Book is a bad source.  Anything decent
> > is plagerized without citation.  That's why the same caraco is in
Arnold,
> > it's copied from there.
>
> I figured as much about it being a bad source, and seeing the same caraco
> copied, well... I was just looking for examples to describe to Bjarne. It
> was an inexpensive publication that was enough to satisfy my interest at
> the time, and it's not a period that I've researched in any detail
whatsoever.
>
> I hoped to have put in enough info in my previous post to give the list an
> idea of the reliability (or lack thereof!) of the source. Thanks for the
> confirmation of it in more detail.
>
> >A much better book was recently published - Whatever Shall I Wear, A
Guide
> >to Assembling a Woman's Basic 18th Century Wardrobe by Mara Riley,
> >illustrated by Kate Johnson.  There's not much about caracos
specifically,
> >but it's a well-researched, beautifully illustrated book!
>
> Sounds interesting... something to add to the list of things I might like
> to look at at some future date (too busy right now, and looking primarily
> at other places/periods).
>
>
>
> Brenda
> webwarren@earthlink.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 19:43:10 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting tings to see in Glasgow?
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To save you banging on the door... no, it's true, the Kelvingrove is 
CLOSED.  There were big articles in all the Scottish news about it, 
pictures of the chief curator locking the big door... (while I'm sure 
people were still running in and out with vanloads at the back)

Jean


Dawn Wood <dawn@agesofelegance.co.uk> wrote
>hmm I know they are refurbishing as my friend is the arms curator and
>redesigning the gallery but didn't think they were actually closed go and
>stand on the doorstep and hammer until they let you in
>Dawn
>Ages Of Elegance makers of Historical reproduction Clothing, Uniforms and
>Bridalwear
> http://www.agesofelegance.co.uk 0113 277 6716
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Deredere Galbraith" <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2003 10:25 AM
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting tings to see in Glasgow?
>
>
>> http://www.glasgowmuseums.com/venue/index.cfm?venueid=4
>> They say Kelvingrove is closed untill 2006 :-(
>>
>> Greetings,
>>         Deredere
>>
>> Dawn Wood wrote:
>>
>> >there's the Kelvingrove in the city which has a very good armour
>collection
>> >(William Randolph Hurst's collection) and lots of Rennie mackintosh
>things
>> >and also the Burrell collection which is just outside set in a lovely
>house
>> >in fab grounds which has some very nice Tudor embroideries amongst other
>> >items
>> >Dawn
>> >Ages Of Elegance makers of Historical reproduction Clothing, Uniforms and
>> >Bridalwear
>> > http://www.agesofelegance.co.uk 0113 277 6716
>> >----- Original Message -----
>> >From: "Deredere Galbraith" <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
>> >To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>> >Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2003 10:02 AM
>> >Subject: [h-cost] Interesting tings to see in Glasgow?
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >>In september I will be on vakation for a week in Glasgow, Scotland and I
>> >>wonder if there are things I really should see.
>> >>Are there musea's with historical costumes??
>> >>
>> >>Greetings,
>> >>        Deredere
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>_______________________________________________
>> >>h-costume mailing list
>> >>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> >>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> >_______________________________________________
>> >h-costume mailing list
>> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>>
>
>
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: "Cabbage Rose" <cabbagerose@sbcglobal.net>
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	<200307072337.56001.cathy@thyrsus.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cloche hat pattern?
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 14:16:42 -0700
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I have used Alter Years pattern and it's very easy and turns out well.  It
can easily be modified (I made 65 plus) to have many different looks just by
tweaking brim size and adornments.

angela
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design

"O, what a world of vile ill-favored faults
 looks handsome in three hundred pounds a year!..."
The Merry Wives of Windsor, III, iv - W. Shakespeare

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Catherine Olanich Raymond" <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2003 8:37 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cloche hat pattern?


> On Monday 07 July 2003 04:31 pm, Beteena Paradise wrote:
> > This site has a couple of cloche patterns that are $14:
> >
> > http://www.longago.com/hat.html
>
> AlterYears also carries the same DL Designs line of hat patterns.
>
> -- 
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>
> "You live and learn, or you don't live long."
>  Robert Heinlein
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Beteena Paradise" <bkessinger@ureach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] US Airline restrictions - sewing stuff (?)
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 10:38:21 -0400
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I travel quite a bit with my job and in my experience it depends upon the
airport. If it were me, I wouldn't travel with any scissors at all. I have
seen where they confiscated cuticle "nippers" at the airport. If you need
something to cut thread while you work, I would suggest getting one of those
coupon cutter things. You know, the sort of round plastic things with a slit
in it where a blade is concealed. It would cut your thread and there would
be no danger of it being seen as a weapon. Good luck!

Teena

----- Original Message -----
From: <ConstanceFairfax@cs.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 10:12 AM
Subject: [h-cost] US Airline restrictions - sewing stuff (?)


> Hi-
>
> I'm making a coast-to-coast run this weekend with fairly long layovers &
I'd like to get some hemming/handwork finished.  Since 9/11, I know some of
my coworkers have had their manicure set scissors taken away.
>
> I want to be completely on the up-and-up, but I also don't want to be
bored out of my skull.  Have any of you traveled in the US lately with
sewing implements?  Are needles (little sharps) ok?  How about snips?  I
assume ghingers are still out. I can imagine trying to get through with a
set of pinking shears. :)
>
> Constance
> _______________________________________________
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> In a message dated 7/9/2003 11:33:06 AM Central Standard Time, 
> drea@nospam writes:
> 
> > Ah heck, I'm lazy. :) If it's for sale anywhere, I'd rather buy it.
> > 
> > But it's looking more and more like I'll have to make some
> > myself...I get the whole rope making concept, but am puzzled as to
> > how to splice new reeds in and keep the circumference of the whole
> > thing even.
> > 
> 
> You've probably already thought of this, but there's a lot of
> furniture made out of what looks like twisted ropes of reeds...it's
> gotta come from somewhere..

That sounds like rattan. You can buy it from Cane and Basketry shops. 
But I don't think that's quite what Drea needs although the Cane and 
Basketry shops might have something else that would work.

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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> Also, I know we've discussed the "people were smaller back then" issue
> here in the past, but briefly, apparently the story isn't that simple;
> from skeletal studies, it seems that average people were very much our
> size in some periods and smaller in others; it's not a steady upward
> trend. Unfortunately the Victorian era, which is the "back then" that
> there's the most evidence for, seems to have been one where people
> tended to be particularly small (except the best-nourished classes, of
> course), which is probably why the myth got started. I believe the
> Elizabethan average was only an inch or so lower than ours.

Exactly. An excellent book on the subject is _London Bodies_ put out 
by the Museum of London as a companion to their exhibit of the same 
name.

Actually, the Victorians were found to be the smallest of all, 
probably because of a combination of really bad pollution (worse than 
today because of all the home coal burning and industrial waste 
problems), disease, and sanitation. The pollution got to even the 
best-nourished classes, as did disease.

And since most people base their assumptions about "growth" on what 
their immediate ancestors were like, that has lead to the myth about 
us being bigger than any time in history (which isn't necessarily 
true.) Oh, to be a Saxon woman. They were the tallest in history 
according to the information available for the _London Bodies_ book.

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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In a message dated 7/10/2003 9:34:25 AM Central Standard Time, 
drea@nospam writes:

> Sure thang!
> 
> I'll be bringing it to Push to work on...will you be there?
> 

Yup!

-Sarra Wryght
Elizabethan Dress Journals: http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/index.html
Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: gothic fitted dress
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On Thu, 10 Jul 2003, sheree krasley wrote:

> As the victim...er model for Tasha, I have to say from my own
> experience that the front curved gown seemed to have much less
> tightness across the abdomen. The straight front seam felt like it was
> much more confining across the ribs and becuase of that the diaphragm
> could not expand properly, hence the corseted feeling.

Hmm, sounds like the front continued straight far lower than I would have
done. I look for the point at which the pieces want to diverge and
flare/gore gently from that point. You *want* the belly to protrude. My
dresses are firm around the ribcage but don't put pressure on the abdomen.
(I have GERD, so this is a serious issue for me!) It does discourage
ribcage expansion, and so forces you to breathe from the diaphragm, but
that's not a bad thing.

("Straight front seam" is probably a misleading term, in this regard; it
came up originally in discussions about handling the bustline. I hope
I've never suggested keeping the front straight all the way down. Sounds
a bit 1890s ;-) )

--Robin


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Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 10:46:29 -0400
From: ConstanceFairfax@cs.com
To: h-costume@indra.com (Historical Costume)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] US Airline restrictions - sewing stuff (?)
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N Kipar <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com> wrote:
>As for thread cutting: I say it again, take a dental floss package with you.

Ha! :)  That's a much more convincing arguement than my dentist ever gave me for carrying floss. :)

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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] US Airline restrictions - sewing stuff (?)
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 07:45:19 -0700
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I have also successfully brought two types of squeeze scissors on board.
The first are children's scissors and they looked at them and said no
problems.  (They just don't have devious enough minds in my book).  The
other looks like a ball point pen.  When the cap is removed they work kind
of like a tweezers and have a sharp point.  I am sure they look just like a
ball point pen in the x-ray amongst all my writing paraphernalia.  Not that
I wave those around when I use them....but.



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Subject: [h-cost] QE Death Mask- was: QE I - how tall?
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Speaking of post mortem QE stuff.  Does anyone know if the effigy of her (I
think the marble one?) was made from a death mask?  It just looks so jowly
for someone who was so supposedly so thin?  I think I remember QEWU talking
about letting out garments later in life (gosh knows I have to these
days!)...just curious.

Sg

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Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 14:55:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Brainard <marcocaprioli@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric stores and men
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Jeez, and I was just thinking, "who's got TWO husbands, that lucky
b****!"  Thanks for the support. Were I in a city or such, I'm sure it
wouldn't be a problem working in a fabric store, but I'm in the middle
of the rednecky half of Montana (there are pockets of enlightenment,
just not anywhere near THIS town). I'm job hunting right now and am
going to speak to a lawyer next week just to scope out my options,
though I suspect a lawsuit wouldn't be worth the emotional toll it'd
take. 

Jeff


--- IceGirlNIN@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 7/9/03 2:45:50 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
> IceGirlNIN@aol.com writes:
> 
> > Your two husbands are definitely NOT alone in this!  
> 
> Ah, I should clarify that.  I meant to say the two people who were
> mentioning 
> that the men in their lives were being given this treatment, and I
> think the 
> original poster was..Jeff?  So that's really three people, I think? 
> I should 
> just not write e-mails at 2am.
> 
> Christine
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] More Gothic fitted dress fitting questions
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On Wed, 9 Jul 2003 KKlocko@aol.com wrote:

> I've recently been interested in making a Gothic Fitted dress for
> myself, however, for various medical reasons my weight keeps changing,
> plus I can't stand pressure on my abdomen.  Which fitting method
> (curved front or straight front) would be best?  Help?  Is there any
> way to make this dress accomodate large fluctuations in weight?

In my experience, there is no way to make this dress accommodate large
fluctuations in weight. I would hate to advise you on ways to try, because
I think you'll be disappointed. (I suppose it's possible to adjust *down*,
but even this isn't a picnic.)

The crucial area is really the ribcage, but there are other problems with
other areas, such as the upper arms.

In any case, pressure on the abdomen shouldn't be an issue. There's no
need to make the dress tight below the waist; it can flare from there,
which makes it skim the top of the abdomen without squeezing and promotes
the fashionable big-bellied look. I've fitted singers who tell me that the
dress encourages them to breathe from the diaphragm the way they're
supposed to, because it's easy to expand there, as opposed to high up in
the ribcage.

--Robin


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 22:57:18 +0200
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Subject: [h-cost] Caraco Redingote?
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Hello again,
My my, i cant cope with all those letters send every day,
But here is my dress diary of the Caraco or Redingote?

http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/caraco_jacket.htm

I think i have made it all right anyway.
It helped a lot when some of you said i should look at Jefferson In Paris

Let me know what you think about it!

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Wheee!  Whose graphic work is that? Smooth!

Heather L

N Kipar wrote:

> --- Theresa Eacker <theresa@misc.com> wrote: > To Nicole-
>  
>
>>Where's the time-travelling feature?  Will my Netscape/iMac not allow it 
>>to work or show up?
>>    
>>
>
>It's in 'Living History' and under the chapter 'photo galleries'. The direct
>link is here:
>
>http://www.kipar.org/society/galleries_timetravel.html
>
>The coding of the siteis clean and simple, no matter which broswer or OS you
>are using, it should all work. I don't like fancy scripting that only works for
>some. If it doesn't work, then I made an error. *laughs*
>
>Nicole
>
>=====
>Men Die. Cattle Die. Word-Fame Lives Forever.   ~ Old Norse Aphorism
>
>Email: nicole@kipar.org
>URL: http://www.kipar.org
>
>________________________________________________________________________
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>  
>

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric stores and men
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Status: RO

Chicago area observations: 

Seems like I saw more men working in fabric stores in the city than in 
the burbs.  It also seems like there were a lot more redneck types in 
the burbs than in the city itself.  (Money itself has very little to do 
with "redneck" behavior and attitudes.  Education does somewhat, 
although by no means always). 

My own reactions to fabric (or any) store employees are usually based on 
how they act, regardless!

I'm curious, Jeff, what type of area are you in?

Heather L
Veni vidi emi tunicam

N Kipar wrote:

> --- Jeff Brainard <marcocaprioli@yahoo.com> wrote: > Here's one for you to
>stew over: I (at least for the present) work at a
>  
>
>>fabric store, only recently, and have noticed in the 3 weeks or month
>>that I've been there that there's this really wierd gender dynamic
>>about a guy working at a fabric store, with the customers and the
>>workers. It's really really messed up in this case enough that I'm
>>talking to a lawyer, but have any of you ever noticed a "ew. there's a
>>MAN in the FABRIC STORE" reaction from a lot of stitch bitches? 
>>    
>>
>
>Really? I'm so sorry to hear that Jeff. Might it be a country/culture thing?
>There are men working in lots of fabric stores I visited in Germany, and male
>customers, and men working in fabric stores here in England, and male customers
>too, including my partner. Hmm,.... hang in there, perhaps you can change the
>climate!
>
>Nicole
>
>=====
>Men Die. Cattle Die. Word-Fame Lives Forever.   ~ Old Norse Aphorism
>
>Email: nicole@kipar.org
>URL: http://www.kipar.org
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>Want to chat instantly with your online friends?  Get the FREE Yahoo!
>Messenger http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com/
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>
>  
>

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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Three middle-class English Women picture online?-Thats
	It!
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 15:25:15 -0700
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Duh!  Now I know where it is in my books too.....I just could not remember
who had done it!  Thanks Melanie!


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] More Gothic fitted dress fitting questions
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On Thu, 10 Jul 2003 KKlocko@aol.com wrote:

> Hmmm...how much give can you reasonably expect in this dress?  An inch
> in lacing? Would it be possible to do the underdress with a... I know
> there's a word for this...flap under the front lacing so you could
> expand it a little?

That might be possible; it's not something I've tried. Much depends on
where you're going to put weight on and off. There is about an inch give
at the lacing area, depending on the flexibility of your fabric and how
much overlap you allow at the lacing.

I had to make new dresses after I had babies, because my ribcage expanded
permanently (even after I'd gone back to my original weight; the bone
structure had changed). Before that, I once "outgrew" a dress just from
gradual weight gain. Interestingly, the crucial area was at the level of
the underarms -- I put on the weight at my side bust and shoulders,
apparently. If I gained anything lower down, either my ribs were flexible
enough or the dress was flexible enough to accommodate that. But when I
couldn't fit into the armhole, there was no going back.

I found this out when I was dressing for a photo session, for publicity
shots for a lecture. I was going to be wearing a houppelande over the
underdress, so I did what I had to do -- grabbed a razor and slashed
across the front of the armholes, releasing the pressure on the upper arms
and side bust. The dress still supported me enough for the shoot, and the
damage was covered by the overdress. I could never wear that dress again,
of course.

My current lecture dress, after many years, is now feeling the strain, in
the same spot and in the upper arms. I expect it'll get me through my
appearance next month in Seattle, but I'm not going to bet on anything
further; I've just ordered wool for a replacement to make up this fall,
before KWCS.

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:  QE I - how tall?
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> Just steering back to the pondering of the effigy corset:) Now if QEI 
> gained
> weight in the 70s... did she lose wight to be able to fit that corset 
> in the
> end? Or was it perhaps laced over something and that was discarded for 
> the
> effigy to make it glorify her more? Or was it made for the effigy only 
> and
> not based on her real size at all?
>
> Or was it indeed made at a later date again not based on her actual
> measurements?

My opinion on the effigy corset is that it wasn't made specifically 
*for* Elizabeth and then put to use on the effigy after her death.  
Call it costumer's intuition, but I think it was likely made 
specifically for the effigy after her death, in the style of the time.  
There's no real evidence that I've seen that suggests it was actually 
worn on a living human being (and the fact that the stays are in such 
good condition is probably the best testament to this), and I don't 
think I've ever come across sources that say whether or not the effigy 
was even meant to *resemble* QEI's actual figure, or if it was, say, 
taken from a lady in waiting's measurements, etc.    There is a photo 
of the corset on the effigy: 
http://www.elizabethi.org/wardrobe/corset.htm

Of course, I could be overlooking research here, but that's just the 
sense I get from the corset.

Sarah

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Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 22:42:25 -0700
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> Actually, I think a 21" waist without corseting is actually
> conceivable (least of all because I had it myself, once upon a time,
> but then, I'm barely 5 feet tall).  I've been studying body size for
> the last few months and there's a lot of modern women who can fall
> into that 21" or less waist category, some of whom are petite like me
> and others who are quite a bit taller. 

I'm 5'4" and had a 19" uncorseted waist for many years. Even after I 
gained weight it was only 25" (until I gained 30#, then it was a wee 
bit more.) (And I'm *very* shortwaisted. Most of my height is in 
legs.)

So, 21" is not outlandish, especially if corseted from a fairly early 
age.

> > Well, think of a 21 inch waist in terms of a size 6 or 8 petite and
> > then consider that these ladies were corsetted very early on, thus
> > allowing for a notable lack of developed back muscles, which would
> > have been made up for by the boning of a corset. When you consider
> > all this, 21 or even 16 inches ("miz scarlet, you ain't gonna have a
> > 16 inch waist no mo') really isn't so very outlandish.

Corsetting (at least in the Tudor period) doesn't necessarily prevent 
back muscle development. Lack of using the upper body strength (for 
example, if you never had to lift things like babies, buckets, 
archery, etc) would do that, but not the corset alone. You might not 
get much in the way of longissimus thoracis development (the muscle 
that runs along side the spine) but certainly the trapezius, 
rhomboids, teres (minor and major), latissimus dorsi and the like 
would get plenty of exercise even in a corset as long as they were 
using their upper extremities. But the major reason for lack of back 
muscle development in women has nothing to do with corsetting, but 
rather with lack of exercise. (Same as now.)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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> How extreme a silhouette can be acheived comfortably by a person really
> depends more on bone structure than anything else. I'm not super short-
> or longwaisted, <snip>
> Hopefully that made sense! Just trying to say that 21" is neither weird
> nor partcularly extreme :)

This is true, I can lace down far and still be comfortable and I've not been
trained. But as far as goes for the Effigy corset:

I don't think it was just the waist measurement, it was the whole shape. I
could get down to a 21" waist but I would not fit that corset. It's the way
the torso is so long and thin, it's quite different to focussing on the
waist and corseting down. I'd get a ver very hourglass shape, as most people
would, expect those with a long torso that's also very narrow.

Much like that pink 17thC sleeved satys in the V&A. It's also of a shape
that's very long and narrow.
http://www.vam.ac.uk/aboutus/whoiswho/departments/collections/furniture/?sec
tion=furniture there is a piccies in that framed page.. and I think you can
get some better photos in the search function
http://images.vam.ac.uk/images/photo/sch/20000504/high/mb37-002.jpg
http://images.vam.ac.uk/images/photo/sch/20000504/high/mb37-001.jpg

Just steering back to the pondering of the effigy corset:) Now if QEI gained
weight in the 70s... did she lose wight to be able to fit that corset in the
end? Or was it perhaps laced over something and that was discarded for the
effigy to make it glorify her more? Or was it made for the effigy only and
not based on her real size at all?

Or was it indeed made at a later date again not based on her actual
measurements?

michaela
http://glittersweet.com





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Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 23:56:46 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blackwork shift questions/beading questions
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There's one in Koehler's book.  I think the L.A. County Museum of Art owns 
another one (I saw one there, but maybe it was part of a travelling exhibit).

>I have a picture of an extant Italian chemise with embroidery around the 
>neck and down the sleeves and body of the chemise.  The embroidery goes 
>all the way around the neckline.  As soon as I can find it, I will post it 
>on my website for you if you would like.  Im sorry, I cant even give you a 
>book to look for right now.  All my books are packed and have left for 
>Kamloops already.
>
>You can contact me privately if you would like a copy.
>
>Jennifer Potts
>aka Senor Giacyntha Francesca Maria Cocchetti,
>Shire of Ramsgaard, SCA
>
>
>Message: 1
>Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 06:37:23 -0700 (PDT)
>From: Cascio Michael <rosenau5@yahoo.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] blackwork shift questions/beading questions
>To: h-costume@net.indra.com
>Message-ID: <20030617133723.90188.qmail@web12005.mail.yahoo.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
>Hi All,
>    I'm finally caught up on my posts and have a few
>questions.
>    On square neck Elizabethan shifts with the
>blackwork embroidery around the edge of the square
>neck would the embroidery go around the entire edge or
>would it just be a band across the front where it
>would show?  I know Janet Arnold mentions a square
>neck shift somewhere but I don't recall ever seeing a
>picture of it anywhere.  I'm working on a shift with
>the low square neck and blackwork on the cuffs as per
>the Helena Snakenborg, although you can't see her
>shift sleeves underneath that beautifully embroidered
>partlet and sleeves.
>    Second question---One of the beading magazines I
>pick up occasionally has some choker patterns that I
>thought would make nice beaded trims.  The chokers
>were made with a light weight gauge wire but as I want
>to sew these patterns down to a garment edge should I
>use wire and make the choker as per the instructions
>and then sew it onto the velvet?  Since I was going to
>put a band of velvet along the edge of the sleeves and
>hem, like a guard, I could stitch each bead down to
>the velvet and then take it off should I need to clean
>the garment.  And since I'm going to put these on a
>garment should I use flat beads or the round beads the
>pattern suggests?
>     Any help would be most appreciated.
>                                  Cassandra
>
>_______________________________________________
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        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Just a few notes on this subject:

For some reason, I seem to remember Weir describing Elizabeth as about 5'5", but I also remember reading about her being about 5'9-10" in a resource I can't remember. If the discussion with the Scottish ambassador is accurate, and pending the affirmation of a garment as definitely belonging to  her, all I guess we can say for sure without digging her up is that she was shorter than Mary of Scots.

Re: Mary of Scots, and the disease that made her so tall - I think that's Marfan's syndrome, symptoms of which are exaggerated height and length of limbs/fingers, and problems with eyesight, but nothing about mood or anxiety. I have never read about Mary as a possible Marfan's case before, though I do remember that it was attributed to Elizabeth at one point, possibly based on her pride over her long fingers (again, I have no source. Take with a salt lick :P ) I know that it has been suggested that Lincoln, Pharaoh Akhenaten, and many basketball players are afflicted. I did a quick search but found nothing about historic Marfan's specifically; if you're still curious start at www.marfan.org.

Re: people in the past weren't as large as people now - I think this has been fairly well debunked, by the Museum of London, at least. I think logically that nutrition/health care in different periods/classes probably varied a lot more than is often given credit, and would probably be a significant influence over how large a person grew.

Allison T. (please forgive lousy grammar - it has been a LONG day!)


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>
> Message: 12
> Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 12:00:03 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
> Subject: [h-cost] Re: QE I - how tall?
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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What timing, I was flipping thru Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd 
last night and read thru this section...
> It sounds like there actually _is_ some information we could access on 
> QE I's size, rather than speculating, if someone has the right books 
> to hand. I know Janet Arnold mentions that there's evidence that 
> Elizabeth gained weight at one point (IIRC) and a lot of her gowns had 
> to be remade.
>
QEWU pg 2 ch 1:
"William Jones, the Queen's tailor, carried out several large groups of 
alterations b/w 1585-1588.  In 1585 he was engaged in 'alteringe 
enlarginge pecinge longer and wider...'"
"In the same year Arthur Middleton, an alterations hand, was employed 
in 'alteringe & enlarginge of ...'"
 From the same paragraph, Ms Arnold informs us that Mr Jones altered the 
bodice and sleeves of 40 gowns and doublets b/w Sept 1587 and April 
1588. By September 1588 he carried out similar work on another 30 and 
another 32 by April 1589.
Just a drop in the bucket considering the items listed in the Stowe and 
Folger inventories from July 1600.
Man, I would not mind that wardrobe at all:)

> As far as I know, there are _no_ surviving garments of QE I that are 
> currently regarded as authentic. Apparently there are accounts of 
> extensive cutting-up and giving-away of Elizabeth's clothes by Queen 
> Anne (James's queen). A couple of things have been pointed out as 
> possible surviving fragments, but if so, they have been re-cut and 
> made into something else (cushion covers, decorative panels on other 
> garments etc.) so we can't extract any size information from them. And 
> I don't think any of them can be _proved_ to have been hers.
An earlier post (Drea?) pointed out that the "effigy corset "(Priory, 
Westminster Abbey) was the original corset on QE's funeral effigy, 
luckily escaping the Victorian overhaul that the rest of the effigy 
costume fell victim to.  Further perusal thru QEWU indicates that Ms 
Arnold has been unable to locate any surviving clothing of QE I.
Laurie

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From: Carol Kocian <aquazoo@patriot.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Re: [h-cost] Caraco jacket fantasy?
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      Once I think of it as a redingote it makes more sense.  I don't 
think it's a caraco.

      The side ruffles in the illustration don't continue around the 
back.  Maybe the back goes to full length at that point?  That makes 
more sense for the style.

      -Carol

>Hi Brenda, and Carrol two
>I much apreciated the help you have given me.
>Belive me, it is very difficult to make something in between of real fashion
>and reallity.
>The fashion print i was looking at was french, and it called the dress to be
>Asiatique whatever that is,
>But then it was very fashionabble to dress exotic in those
>days...............
>I have now desided to make it this way:
>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/caraco_jacket.htm
>
>Bjarne
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> >
> > You've probably already thought of this, but there's a lot of
> > furniture made out of what looks like twisted ropes of reeds...it's
> > gotta come from somewhere..
>
> That sounds like rattan. You can buy it from Cane and Basketry shops.
> But I don't think that's quite what Drea needs although the Cane and
> Basketry shops might have something else that would work.

The closest I've found is #0 round reed (1 to 1.5 mm).  No-one sells bent
grass that I know of. :(

After thinking about it all day at work, and drawing obscure ropy looking
doodles all through two meetings, I experiemented with my small reed when
I got home. I took 20 pieces, gave them a slight twist, and wrapped them
tightly in artificial sinew. I got through 8 yards before my fingers gave
up.

But it was easy to splice, since I went slowly and only one reed ran out
at a time.

Probably not exactly what they meant by "bent rope"...but it looks really
period, and is amazingly light compared to hemp rope of the same diameter
and length.  Much stiffer, too....yet very flexible, and unlikely to
break.

I'm really looking forward to making a farthingale out of it.  I think
I'll do the spiral-up-the-farthingale method, rather than separate rings,
to avoid kinking.

Drea


 > > Kat
> <kat@redtrollforge.com>
>
>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] feeling ignernt ...and enjoying it :-)
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 23:42:34 -0400
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On Wednesday 09 July 2003 08:36 am, Kate M Bunting wrote:
> Cathy Raymond wrote:
> >>>I know women with grapefruits.
> >
> >However, I only have strawberries.  Small strawberries at that, too.
> >
> :-)
>
> Reminds me of a sketch in the "Two Ronnies" TV series years ago.
>
> Ronnie Corbett: I want to buy my wife a new bra, but I don't know what
> size to ask for.
> Ronnie Barker: Well, are they like melons? Or grapefruits? Or oranges?
> RC: [thinks a bit] They're like eggs. [Pause] ........Fried.
>
> Having a figure of the fried egg variety myself, that always makes me
> smile.

Sunny side up, or flipped and broken?  :-)

On the other hand, as a (male) friend of mine says, "more than a mouthful is 
wasted."  :-)

I
-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
 
"You live and learn, or you don't live long."
 Robert Heinlein

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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope
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See you there! :)

Drea


On Thu, 10 Jul 2003 LoreleiMorte@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 7/10/2003 9:34:25 AM Central Standard Time,
> drea@nospam writes:
>
> > Sure thang!
> >
> > I'll be bringing it to Push to work on...will you be there?
> >
>
> Yup!
>
> -Sarra Wryght
> Elizabethan Dress Journals: http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/index.html
> Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
> _______________________________________________
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Hi, All. In this case, a rope splice would not be applicable, but it is 
possible that reeds could be joined in some way and wrapped, similarly 
to the method used for the hoops on barrels and buckets seen in 16th 
Cent. paintings. Just a musing thought... In addition, anything that is 
made of long fibers joined together has breaks in the fibers at some 
point... the idea is to keep the breaks away from each other, and the 
spin of the fibers will bind the lot together along the whole length (if 
this makes any sense)  Mike T.

Elizabeth Young wrote:

> A long splice is used to join rope pieces together.
> liz young
>
> Drea Leed wrote:
>
>> Ah heck, I'm lazy. :) If it's for sale anywhere, I'd rather buy it.
>>
>> But it's looking more and more like I'll have to make some myself...I 
>> get
>> the whole rope making concept, but am puzzled as to how to splice new
>> reeds in and keep the circumference of the whole thing even.
>>
>>
>>>
>>>   
>>
>
>
>


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From: kat@grendal.rain.com
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 08:25:43 -0700
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blackwork shift questions/beading questions
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> I have a picture of an extant Italian chemise with embroidery around
> the neck and down the sleeves and body of the chemise.  The embroidery
> goes all the way around the neckline.  As soon as I can find it, I
> will post it on my website for you if you would like.  Im sorry, I
> cant even give you a book to look for right now.  All my books are
> packed and have left for Kamloops already.

Milia Davenport's Book of Costume has one. There are several 
embroidery books which have pictures of them too.

Kamloops! What a drive!

>    On square neck Elizabethan shifts with the
> blackwork embroidery around the edge of the square
> neck would the embroidery go around the entire edge or
> would it just be a band across the front where it
> would show?

The embroidery is over the entire shift often times much like ours do 
with printed fabrics.

The embroidery on seams was to a purpose: strengthening the seams. 

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope
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In a message dated 7/10/2003 10:19:05 AM Central Standard Time, 
drea@nospam writes:

> See you there! :)
> 

Party on, homey.

-Sarra Wryght
Elizabethan Dress Journals: http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/index.html
Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
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From: "Freyalyn Close-Hainsworth" <lynn@close-hainsworth.fslife.co.uk>
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Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 16:43:16 +0100
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> As for thread cutting: I say it again, take a dental floss
> package with you.

When I flew to America last year, I tucked a couple of sewing needles inside
my dental floss case, which split open very easily.  I also tucked metal
double-pointed knitting needles down the metal spine of my diary/organiser
thing.  Got both through without a problem, even with *very* thorough
checking.  Nobody queried the ball of knitting yarn or fabric and thread -
without any visible means of using them.  The airstaff didn't even notice
when I started to knit and sew.  I took a small spindle and some fibre and
did that openly in the airport - again, no-one said anything.

when I've spoken to other people about this, the general response seems to
be that if you ask airline staff "is this OK?" the answer is always no.
Carry something small and apparently innocuous, and they won't notice.

Freyalyn the Fluff Fiend

"If you're gonna ask someone to save the world, make sure they like it the
way it is". (XC, 2002)


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope
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>> I can picture this, but I've never heard of it--was it done in the 
>> 16th
>> century?
>
> There's a picture of a woman in the Milanese Tailor's Handbook, where 
> her
> farthingale appears to start at the bottom and spiral up:
> http://costume.dm.net/Tailors/pages/f103R.html

This was the same image Melissa Heischberg based her spiral farthingale 
off of a few years back.  The only difference is that she used rope 
rather than cane, but it's pretty darn sturdy.  As I understand it, the 
spiral keeps the farthingale from compressing unevenly at any given 
angle, the way it would if there were concentric rings of boning 
through it.

I've been meaning to make one of these, myself... I'm in the process of 
overhauling all of my Elizabethan undies, so this project is getting 
closer and closer to the top of the pile.  ;)

Oh, and Missa's spiral farthingale can be found here: 
http://www.sempstress.org/diaries/grey2002/underpinnings.shtml

She rocks.  <grin>

Sarah

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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope
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>
> This was the same image Melissa Heischberg based her spiral farthingale
> off of a few years back.  The only difference is that she used rope
> rather than cane, but it's pretty darn sturdy.  As I understand it, the
> spiral keeps the farthingale from compressing unevenly at any given
> angle, the way it would if there were concentric rings of boning
> through it.

Missa's cool. I remember that farthingale of hers. I did make one
rope-stiffened farthingale, and though it held out very impressively
(much more than I would have expected), pinning and stitching the rope
into the tucks was a royal pain. Plus, the end result was staggeringly
heavy, after the light hoopskirt boning farthingales I'd gotten used to.
I'm crossing my fingers that this bent rope stuff, even 20 yards of it,
will be lighter in comparison. One pound of it looks like it will make
about 15 yards of bent rope.
 >
> I've been meaning to make one of these, myself... I'm in the process of
> overhauling all of my Elizabethan undies, so this project is getting
> closer and closer to the top of the pile.  ;)
>

Me too!  I kept putting off making a new effigy corset to fit the new,
more voluptuous me, in the hopes that she would turn back into
the old, slimmer me. But I've finally resigned myself, and am going
to go ahead and make a new corset--burgundy silk taffata, with heavy
linen fustian backing it, with blak velvet edging & reed boning.  I have
a cunning plan: it's going to lace up the side backs as well as the
center front.  That way, if I do lose weight (or gain any more), I can
replace the back panel with a smaller or larger one.

The farthingale's going to match, and tie to the corset at the sides.

So, you're in Flaming Gryphon?  I don't think I've met you, have I?

See you soon,

Drea

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Subject: [h-cost] interesting ebay auction
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After all the humdingers of costume we've seen, here's
an auction with nothing to criticize.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2933240866&category=1469

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From: KKlocko@aol.com
To: h-costume@indra.com (Historical Costume)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] More Gothic fitted dress fitting questions
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In a message dated 7/9/2003 4:07:14 PM Eastern Standard Time, robin@shell.nightowl.net writes:

> 
> 
> 
> On Wed, 9 Jul 2003 KKlocko@aol.com wrote:
> 
> > I've recently been interested in making a Gothic Fitted dress for
> > myself, however, for various medical reasons my weight keeps changing,
> > plus I can't stand pressure on my abdomen.  Which fitting method
> > (curved front or straight front) would be best?  Help?  Is there any
> > way to make this dress accomodate large fluctuations in weight?
> 
> In my experience, there is no way to make this dress >accommodate large fluctuations in weight. 

Hmmm...how much give can you reasonably expect in this dress?  An inch in lacing? Would it be possible to do the underdress with a... I know there's a word for this...flap under the front lacing so you could expand it a little?

Maybe it's time to go to Plan B, which is to make both a skinny dress and a full-figured dress.

> In any case, pressure on the abdomen shouldn't be an issue. >There's no need to make the dress tight below the waist; it >can flare from there, which makes it skim the top of the >abdomen without squeezing and promotes the fashionable big->bellied look. 

oooh, I love that look, if only because it's perfect for me. :>

Thanks!
     --Kathy K.
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Hi-

I'm making a coast-to-coast run this weekend with fairly long layovers & I'd like to get some hemming/handwork finished.  Since 9/11, I know some of my coworkers have had their manicure set scissors taken away.  

I want to be completely on the up-and-up, but I also don't want to be bored out of my skull.  Have any of you traveled in the US lately with sewing implements?  Are needles (little sharps) ok?  How about snips?  I assume ghingers are still out. I can imagine trying to get through with a set of pinking shears. :)

Constance
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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope
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>> I'm really looking forward to making a farthingale out of it.  I think
>> I'll do the spiral-up-the-farthingale method, rather than separate
>> rings, to avoid kinking.

>
> I can picture this, but I've never heard of it--was it done in the 16th
> century?

There's a picture of a woman in the Milanese Tailor's Handbook, where her
farthingale appears to start at the bottom and spiral up:
http://costume.dm.net/Tailors/pages/f103R.html

The rope appears to have been whipstitched to the outside of the Italian
woman's farthingale, rather than sewn into tucks.

I've seen another, similar picture, showing the bottom ring going around
and then the rest slanting a bit, but can't currently remember where.

I found a tailor's bill which mentioned "50 yds of bent rope" (sic) for
two spanish farthingales, which works out to @25 yds apiece...only
workable if the rope was sewn on as narrowly as it is on the Italian
woman's skirt. That's the amount I plan to use on my next farthingale.

In such a case it would be much easier, work-wise, to have one band of
bent rope spiraling around than to cut and splice the two dozen or so
separate rounds required. I have a hunch it will make the farthingale
sturdier as well.  I've found references to bent rope on
farthingales being covered with bands of contrasting fabric, which is
what I plan to do: burgundy shot-silk taffeta farthingale, with a black
velvet band covering the bent rope.

17 yards to go...:)

Drea


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Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 19:04:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Brainard <marcocaprioli@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: fabric stores and men
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yeah, it's Hancock's I'm having problems with. I wonder if part of it
is sideways homophobia. I took a new job today, so cross your fingers
girls!

Jeff


>
> Sorry you are having troubles Jeff.  A good friend of mine also has
> problems when he goes into fabrics stores to shop, at least Hancock's
> or
> JoAnn's.  They know him very well in the two higher-end stores here
> in
> town and he has no problems there.  That could also be because,
> especially in one of them, they are very familiar with his work and
> he
> is an awesome costume (started in Civil War and we are sucking him
> into
> Elizabethan, yes I'm trying to get him onto this list :). 
> http://www.kcrenfest.com/PhotoGallery/Fops.html.  Jason is the
> gentleman on the right and he created all 3 costumes).
> 
> I had not really thought of it before but after Jeff has brought this
> up, I don't see very many men in our local fabric stores, at least
> the
> Hancock's and JoAnn's, either working at them or shopping.  One of
> the
> remaining, smaller, JoAnn's used to be managed by a man but he has
> since
> left.  Both of the higher-end stores do have male employees, one is
> owned by a man.  Sounds like any problems might be more with the
> larger
> chains.
> 
> Catherine
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: Jeff Brainard <marcocaprioli@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] QE I - how tall?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Well, think of a 21 inch waist in terms of a size 6 or 8 petite and
then consider that these ladies were corsetted very early on, thus
allowing for a notable lack of developed back muscles, which would have
been made up for by the boning of a corset. When you consider all this,
21 or even 16 inches ("miz scarlet, you ain't gonna have a 16 inch
waist no mo') really isn't so very outlandish.

Jeff


--- Sarah <sarah@elizabethanlady.com> wrote:
> 
> On Wednesday, July 9, 2003, at 06:28  AM, Drea Leed wrote:
> 
> > If it's true that the effigy corset in Westminster was from QE's 
> > store, it
> > might be possible to extrapolate her height based on the height of
> the
> > corset.  I know that it is around 21 inches around the waist, but
> is 
> > very
> > long and narrow.  Hard to believe it fit an actual woman!
> 
> Yeah, but on the "right" kind of body, a 21" corseted waist is pretty
> 
> average.  A long torso'd woman (assuming QEI falls into this range) 
> could naturally have a waist around 21" and be 5'6 or taller.  
> Supermodels do it all the time.  ;)
> 
> Sarah
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Wow! Very spiff!  



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From: Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
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Hi,

I scaled the bodice pattern f.60 Page 45 Tailor's Pattern Book 1589 Juan 
de Alcega up until it fitted me.
I didn't make any other alterations to the pattern.
The cut of the straps look a bit strange on the pattern but are quite 
comfortable.
I was supprised how wel it fits. I could use a little more room at my 
waist and maby a little les at the top.
I wonder how the actual dress would have looked like. The pattern say's 
Kirtle and low cut bodice of cloth rash for a woman.
Does this mean that was the bodice of a kirtle or that it were two 
different items?
The point in front is long and pointy, from wich time would this bodice 
have been?

http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Bodice/Bodice.html

Greetings,
        Deredere


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] QE I - how tall?
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Actually, I think a 21" waist without corseting is actually conceivable 
(least of all because I had it myself, once upon a time, but then, I'm 
barely 5 feet tall).  I've been studying body size for the last few 
months and there's a lot of modern women who can fall into that 21" or 
less waist category, some of whom are petite like me and others who are 
quite a bit taller.  I used the supermodel example, but really, there 
are supermodels out there with 28" waists who are nearly anorexic... It 
just depends on bone structure, rib-to-hip length and a few other 
genetic factors, but it's not as rare as one might think.

Sarah

On Wednesday, July 9, 2003, at 07:21  PM, Jeff Brainard wrote:

> Well, think of a 21 inch waist in terms of a size 6 or 8 petite and
> then consider that these ladies were corsetted very early on, thus
> allowing for a notable lack of developed back muscles, which would have
> been made up for by the boning of a corset. When you consider all this,
> 21 or even 16 inches ("miz scarlet, you ain't gonna have a 16 inch
> waist no mo') really isn't so very outlandish.
>
> Jeff
>
>
> --- Sarah <sarah@elizabethanlady.com> wrote:
>>
>> On Wednesday, July 9, 2003, at 06:28  AM, Drea Leed wrote:
>>
>>> If it's true that the effigy corset in Westminster was from QE's
>>> store, it
>>> might be possible to extrapolate her height based on the height of
>> the
>>> corset.  I know that it is around 21 inches around the waist, but
>> is
>>> very
>>> long and narrow.  Hard to believe it fit an actual woman!
>>
>> Yeah, but on the "right" kind of body, a 21" corseted waist is pretty
>>
>> average.  A long torso'd woman (assuming QEI falls into this range)
>> could naturally have a waist around 21" and be 5'6 or taller.
>> Supermodels do it all the time.  ;)
>>
>> Sarah
>>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re:  QE I - how tall?
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>
>
>Jeff Brainard <marcocaprioli@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>Well, think of a 21 inch waist in terms of a size 6 or 8 petite and
>then consider that these ladies were corsetted very early on, thus
>allowing for a notable lack of developed back muscles, which would have
>been made up for by the boning of a corset. When you consider all this,
>21 or even 16 inches ("miz scarlet, you ain't gonna have a 16 inch
>waist no mo') really isn't so very outlandish.
>

Actually, one needs neither to be tiny nor to be habitually tightlaced 
to acheive such a silhouette. I'm about 5'5"-5'6" and when I was about, 
say 145 lbs and a standard size 9-10, I corseted very easily to 20-21" 
in my victorian-era corsets for 1st-person interpreting on alternate 
weekends. I was, at the time, doing fairly physical work, mostly 
involving my back, and was very fit, so it didn't mean that I was 
corseting small because of low muscle mass, either. Normally my waist 
isn't especially small compared to my hips and bust, and I certainly did 
not wear corsets regularly enough to claim body modification, so neither 
of those are the answer.

How extreme a silhouette can be acheived comfortably by a person really 
depends more on bone structure than anything else. I'm not super short- 
or longwaisted, I have slim-average hips (regardless of my size - they 
are still slim for whatever size I am), and my ribcage naturally slopes 
in toward my waist, with the added bonus of being somewhat doublejointed 
(moreso when I was younger than now, at 32) which makes my ribcage 
cartilage probably more willing to let things move about than otherwise.

Hopefully that made sense! Just trying to say that 21" is neither weird 
nor partcularly extreme :)

Maura


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jul 10 12:21:34 2003
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re:  QE I - how tall?
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 21:59:20 -0700
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If there is an effigy that the corset fit, or at least was on, couldn't it
be measured for the height?  Or is it a complete full body manikin?

Wanda
>


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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bodice From tailors book
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>
> I scaled the bodice pattern f.60 Page 45 Tailor's Pattern Book 1589 Juan
> de Alcega up until it fitted me.
> I didn't make any other alterations to the pattern.
> The cut of the straps look a bit strange on the pattern but are quite
> comfortable.
> I was supprised how wel it fits. I could use a little more room at my
> waist and maby a little les at the top.
> I wonder how the actual dress would have looked like. The pattern say's
> Kirtle and low cut bodice of cloth rash for a woman.
> Does this mean that was the bodice of a kirtle or that it were two
> different items?
> The point in front is long and pointy, from wich time would this bodice
> have been?

Wow, that does look straight out of a picture.

The time period would be 80s/90s for this particular pattern.  Looks like
it will make a great gown, with a few tweaks & stiffening.

Drea

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Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 08:11:10 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] US Airline restrictions - sewing stuff (?)
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I've found ones which are meant to be worn on a finger. handy little
jobbers. :)

Arlys

On Thu, 10 Jul 2003 09:23:59 -0500 "Betsy Marshall"
<betsy@softwareinnovation.com> writes:
> Run down to the sewing or quilting store- there is a little round 
> thread
> cutter that is only a couple of dollars- it has several slots for 
> the
> thread to fall into to touch the cutting blade-which is permanently
> covered. I have one I wear to camping events, on a necklace or 
> string it
> is handy and almost un-losable, and passes for a pendant. Worth a
> look-see. Betsy
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com 
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
> On Behalf Of ConstanceFairfax@cs.com
> Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 9:12 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] US Airline restrictions - sewing stuff (?)
> 
> Hi-
> 
> I'm making a coast-to-coast run this weekend with fairly long 
> layovers &
> I'd like to get some hemming/handwork finished.  Since 9/11, I know 
> some
> of my coworkers have had their manicure set scissors taken away.  
> 
> I want to be completely on the up-and-up, but I also don't want to 
> be
> bored out of my skull.  Have any of you traveled in the US lately 
> with
> sewing implements?  Are needles (little sharps) ok?  How about 
> snips?  I
> assume ghingers are still out. I can imagine trying to get through 
> with
> a set of pinking shears. :)
> 
> Constance
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Subject: [h-cost] Redneck fabric stores and men
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(Oops, looks like I missed that last post Jeff)  Maybe you could stick a 
screwdriver in your shirt pocket and act like you do stuff in the back?

You have my deepest sympathies, marooned out in BFE *and* stuck in a 
fabric shop with the quilt ladies.  Where i live you can't find gingham 
(I like the 1" for mockups) but you *can* find fabric with little green 
and yellow tractors all over it.  <Chafe>!

Hang in there, it has to end someday, and you have the World's Largest 
Stitch-n-B**** welcoming you back when you get off work!

Heather L

Jeff Brainard wrote:

>Jeez, and I was just thinking, "who's got TWO husbands, that lucky
>b****!"  Thanks for the support. Were I in a city or such, I'm sure it
>wouldn't be a problem working in a fabric store, but I'm in the middle
>of the rednecky half of Montana (there are pockets of enlightenment,
>just not anywhere near THIS town). I'm job hunting right now and am
>going to speak to a lawyer next week just to scope out my options,
>though I suspect a lawsuit wouldn't be worth the emotional toll it'd
>take. 
>
>Jeff
>
>
>--- IceGirlNIN@aol.com wrote:
>  
>
>>In a message dated 7/9/03 2:45:50 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
>>IceGirlNIN@aol.com writes:
>>
>>    
>>
>>>Your two husbands are definitely NOT alone in this!  
>>>      
>>>
>>Ah, I should clarify that.  I meant to say the two people who were
>>mentioning 
>>that the men in their lives were being given this treatment, and I
>>think the 
>>original poster was..Jeff?  So that's really three people, I think? 
>>I should 
>>just not write e-mails at 2am.
>>
>>Christine
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>
>
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From: Elizabeth Young <lizyoung@fenris.net>
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Subject: airline security, Re: [h-cost] RE: h-costume Digest, Vol 2, Issue
 402
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Freyalyn Close-Hainsworth wrote:

>>As for thread cutting: I say it again, take a dental floss
>>package with you.
>>    
>>
>
>When I flew to America last year, I tucked a couple of sewing needles inside
>my dental floss case, which split open very easily.  I also tucked metal
>double-pointed knitting needles down the metal spine of my diary/organiser
>thing.  
>
snip

>
>when I've spoken to other people about this, the general response seems to
>be that if you ask airline staff "is this OK?" the answer is always no.
>Carry something small and apparently innocuous, and they won't notice.
>
>  
>
The fellow at the Toledo OH airport asked me, "do you have any sharp 
objects?". And I said "No", because I didn't consider my wooden dp 
knitting needles 'sharp'.
I have no idea what they'd look like in a scanner.

liz young


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope
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> So, you're in Flaming Gryphon?  I don't think I've met you, have I?

Different Sarah.  ;)

This is Sarah Goodman.  I think Sarra is the "sarah" you're looking 
for.  Hehehe.

Okay, this is why I should legally change my name.  "Sarah" is just too 
common!  Of course "Goodman" is also a really common last name, and 
apparently there are quite a few Sarah Goodman's out there who are not 
me, one of whom is even a costumer, herself!  Thankfully, the last name 
problem will be resolved the weekend after next when I shall magically 
transform myself into Sarah Rodriguez.  Or should that be 
Goodman-Rodriguez?  Hmmm.

Sarah The-As-Yet-Untitled

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In a message dated 7/10/2003 11:33:54 AM Central Standard Time, 
sarah@elizabethanlady.com writes:

> >So, you're in Flaming Gryphon?  I don't think I've met you, have I?
> 
> Different Sarah.  ;)
> 
> This is Sarah Goodman.  I think Sarra is the "sarah" you're looking 
> for.  Hehehe.
> 

I am Sarra who is also Sarah but not Sarah. Mundanely, I am Sarah, not 
mundanely I am Sarra. See how creative and original I am? I think I should have a 
title "No-The-Other-One". You know, I once read a book set in the 16th C that 
had a character called Goodman Wright. Coincidence? I think not. I can't 
remember if he was a snazzy dresser or if he married a Spaniard.

Yup, I'm in Flaming Gryphon (Marche of the Unicorny flavored) and nope I have 
not met you yet. I'm trying to get better at going to events....even though 
they are *Outside* and have no AC..and there's all these guys hitting each 
other with sticks, wussup with that? I did lurk around Kingdom A&S but it was 
inside, with AC, and therefore good. 

-Sarra "No, The Other One" Wryght
Elizabethan Dress Journals: http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/index.html
Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
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ConstanceFairfax@cs.com wrote:

> I want to be completely on the up-and-up, but I also don't want to be bored out of my skull.  Have any of you traveled in the US lately with sewing implements?  Are needles (little sharps) ok?  How about snips?  I assume ghingers are still out. I can imagine trying to get through with a set of pinking shears. :)

I've flown recently on Alaska Air and had no problems with my knitting. However, I made sure that my scissors were put in my baggage and not with my carry-on stuff. It's always a good idea to look up the carrier/s that you will be flying on the internet -- most have a site which lists what is / is not permitted with
carry-on. That being said, a few people have been surprised at how this list is interpreted by the security personal themselves. Personally, I wouldn't bring anything as carry-on that I would not be willing to forfeit at security. As someone else noted, it is also a good idea to find out what is / is not allowed at
the various airports you'll be at. Again, remember that, if our level of concern were to increase while you were on your trip, the rules could change.

On this trip (a few days ago) and when I was admitted to the actual waiting area with my invalid mother last fall (3 different occasions), I saw several women working on various types of handwork that involved needles. Those flights were all last fall and were all on Southwest. The airport was Ontario, California.

Regarding the pendant/cutter - Though it may pass as just a pendant, I wouldn't count on it. In my recent experience, people with much less than the medal on this pendant have set off the metal walk-through detectors. If a security guard were to carefully scrutinize the pendant, you can see the sections of what look
like razor blade within the unit. It might be enough to get taken away. Floss sounds like the best approach to this problem.

--
Cecilia, who had jury duty yesterday and was concerned about bringing her knitting to the courthouse. Actually they were more concerned with the breakfast that I brought. So what do I know? <grin>
knitting a new paradigm in southern California
pyrfectpup@earthlink.net
http://home.earthlink.net/~pyrfectpup/



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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope
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Doh!  Sorry.

Too many Sarahs. :)  In fact, I was a hairsbreadth away from being named
Sarah at birth.  I've been told I looked like a Sarah. Maybe I am secretly
a Sarah, after all.  Che Sarah, Sarah.

I lucked out.  So did my sister Inga, who, if she had been male, would
have been saddled with the name "Joachim Amadeus"...

Drea


On Thu, 10 Jul 2003, Sarah wrote:

>
> > So, you're in Flaming Gryphon?  I don't think I've met you, have I?
>
> Different Sarah.  ;)
>
> This is Sarah Goodman.  I think Sarra is the "sarah" you're looking
> for.  Hehehe.
>
> Okay, this is why I should legally change my name.  "Sarah" is just too
> common!  Of course "Goodman" is also a really common last name, and
> apparently there are quite a few Sarah Goodman's out there who are not
> me, one of whom is even a costumer, herself!  Thankfully, the last name
> problem will be resolved the weekend after next when I shall magically
> transform myself into Sarah Rodriguez.  Or should that be
> Goodman-Rodriguez?  Hmmm.
>
> Sarah The-As-Yet-Untitled
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Drea wrote:
> There's a picture of a woman in the Milanese Tailor's Handbook, where her
> farthingale appears to start at the bottom and spiral up:
> http://costume.dm.net/Tailors/pages/f103R.html
> 
> The rope appears to have been whipstitched to the outside of the Italian
> woman's farthingale, rather than sewn into tucks.

Oooh, that makes me happy!  I'm about to start a corded petticoat, and
was dreading sewing those channels.  Whipstitching, though, *that* I can
do very happily!  Though I think I might sew it to the inside of the
petticoat rather than the outside.

K.

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To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 10:24:20 -0700 (PDT)
In-Reply-To: <no.id> from "Elizabeth Young" at Jul 10, 2003 09:32:39 AM
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It seems to me since this topic comes up at least once every two months,
it might be a good time for someone to put together an FAQ.   I don't
want to write it, but I do have webspace to host it if someone else does.

.heather.

> 
> Freyalyn Close-Hainsworth wrote:
> 
> >>As for thread cutting: I say it again, take a dental floss
> >>package with you.
> >>    
> >>
> >
> >When I flew to America last year, I tucked a couple of sewing needles inside
> >my dental floss case, which split open very easily.  I also tucked metal
> >double-pointed knitting needles down the metal spine of my diary/organiser
> >thing.  
> >
> snip
> 
> >
> >when I've spoken to other people about this, the general response seems to
> >be that if you ask airline staff "is this OK?" the answer is always no.
> >Carry something small and apparently innocuous, and they won't notice.
> >
> >  
> >
> The fellow at the Toledo OH airport asked me, "do you have any sharp 
> objects?". And I said "No", because I didn't consider my wooden dp 
> knitting needles 'sharp'.
> I have no idea what they'd look like in a scanner.
> 
> liz young
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 

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Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 10:45:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tasha McGann <demontsegur@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: gothic fitted gown questions
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Robin wrote:
Hmm, sounds like the front continued straight far
lower than I would have done. I look for the point at
which the pieces want to diverge and
flare/gore gently from that point. You *want* the
belly to protrude. 

Well, yes, and I think this gown was made too tight
across the ribcage, and that probably carried over to
the abdomen. I do include a section in my website for
fitting the abdomen, and it discusses the same issue
-- that we can create our waist wherever we want,
often much higher than the bellybutton-waist that
modern fashion dictates. I flare from that point of
smallest circumference around the middle. The flare
often begins anywhere from 2 to 4 inches below the
bottom of the bust, max. The bellybutton tends to be
around 6-7 inches below the bottom of the bust, very
roughly guessing.

I once flat-drafted a costume pattern (not for one of
these gowns, but for another dress style that had an
a-line skirt) for a friend who was quite upset when
she saw how 'high' I was placing her waist. She
panicked and insisted I place it lower. The problem
was, the way her body was shaped, I could not draw the
pattern in an hour-glass fashion if I tried to put the
waist where she was used to thinking it was. When she
realized this, she saw what I had been doing --
accentuating the only spot on her middle that still
indented a bit beneath her bust. 

Most mature women tend to grow little pot bellies in
the bellybutton region, and having children certainly
can make them more pronounced. I stopped caring about
a flat stomach years ago -- when I realized it was for
the adolescent and the naturally gazelle-like, but not
me. :^) Luckily the period art shows a lot of variety
in abdomen-shaping, and you can either fit closely to
the hips all the way around or flare the front (and to
some degree the side seams too) as high up as you
want, provided the bust is still supported. 

Tasha

=====
http://www.cottesimple.com
An exploration of European clothing and accessories from the late 14th/early 15th centuries.

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Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 10:38:16 -0700
From: Jennifer Potts <jenpotts@shaw.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] Caraco?
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I have a copy of a pattern made from an extant Caraco, if you are interested in a copy. Your draping has the right idea, but the construction is a bit different than a normal bodice.  Let me know privately if you would like a copy.


Jennifer Potts
aka Senora Giacyntha Francesca Maria Cocchetti
jenpotts@shaw.ca

THERE IS A FINE LINE BETWEEN HOBBY AND MENTAL ILLNESS....


Message: 5
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 05:01:47 +0200
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
Subject: [h-cost] Caraco?
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Hello again.
Now here is the outfit i would like to make for the swedish lady.
U know the swedish society of Gustafs Skl prefer to dress very late 18th
century.
I found this fashion print. but what would you call this?
And do you think i have made it right CF? With buttons closings?
I want to make it in grey damask and blue underskirt.
Thanks for any advises
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/is_this_a_caraco_jacket.htm
Bjarne


Jennifer Potts
aka Senora Giacyntha Francesca Maria Cocchetti
jenpotts@shaw.ca

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From: Jennifer Potts <jenpotts@shaw.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] Blackwork shift questions/beading questions
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Hi Kat,

Not such a drive as I live in Vernon right now - in the Okanagan Region of BC - about a 1 1/2 hour drive from here.  The problem is going to be finding some place to store my stuff while Im living in my mom's basement, looking for a new home.  ACK!

In response to your comment about embroidery being used to strengthen seams, Im working on a chemise with blackwork to finish the seams.  I cut all the panels of the chemise at 23 inches wide, as that is the approx. width of an ell of fabric (or so it was quoted here a while back).  As soon as I have my "stuff" sorted out again, and have access to a digital camera, I'll put it up on my website (which is in dire need of attention right now.)

Jennifer Potts
aka Senora Giacyntha Francesca Maria Cocchetti
jenpotts@shaw.ca

THERE IS A FINE LINE BETWEEN HOBBY AND MENTAL ILLNESS....


Message: 9
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 08:25:43 -0700
From: kat@grendal.rain.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blackwork shift questions/beading questions
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <3F0D2307.15328.18D48019@localhost>
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> I have a picture of an extant Italian chemise with embroidery around
> the neck and down the sleeves and body of the chemise.  The embroidery
> goes all the way around the neckline.  As soon as I can find it, I
> will post it on my website for you if you would like.  Im sorry, I
> cant even give you a book to look for right now.  All my books are
> packed and have left for Kamloops already.

Milia Davenport's Book of Costume has one. There are several 
embroidery books which have pictures of them too.

Kamloops! What a drive!

>    On square neck Elizabethan shifts with the
> blackwork embroidery around the edge of the square
> neck would the embroidery go around the entire edge or
> would it just be a band across the front where it
> would show?

The embroidery is over the entire shift often times much like ours do 
with printed fabrics.

The embroidery on seams was to a purpose: strengthening the seams. 

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>

Jennifer Potts
aka Senora Giacyntha Francesca Maria Cocchetti
jenpotts@shaw.ca

THERE IS A FINE LINE BETWEEN HOBBY AND MENTAL ILLNESS....
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From: "Signora Apollonia Margherita degli Albizzi" <apollonia@bellsouth.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Spiral farthingale
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Just out of curiosity, why would you think this a farthingale, and not a
decorated forepart?

Apollonia

Signora Apollonia Margherita degli Albizzi
Kingdom of Atlantia
www.livejournal.com/users/apollonia

**La vita senz'onore e un viver morto.**

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Drea Leed
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 10:11 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope



>> I'm really looking forward to making a farthingale out of it.  I think
>> I'll do the spiral-up-the-farthingale method, rather than separate
>> rings, to avoid kinking.

>
> I can picture this, but I've never heard of it--was it done in the 16th
> century?

There's a picture of a woman in the Milanese Tailor's Handbook, where her
farthingale appears to start at the bottom and spiral up:
http://costume.dm.net/Tailors/pages/f103R.html

The rope appears to have been whipstitched to the outside of the Italian
woman's farthingale, rather than sewn into tucks.

I've seen another, similar picture, showing the bottom ring going around
and then the rest slanting a bit, but can't currently remember where.

I found a tailor's bill which mentioned "50 yds of bent rope" (sic) for
two spanish farthingales, which works out to @25 yds apiece...only
workable if the rope was sewn on as narrowly as it is on the Italian
woman's skirt. That's the amount I plan to use on my next farthingale.

In such a case it would be much easier, work-wise, to have one band of
bent rope spiraling around than to cut and splice the two dozen or so
separate rounds required. I have a hunch it will make the farthingale
sturdier as well.  I've found references to bent rope on
farthingales being covered with bands of contrasting fabric, which is
what I plan to do: burgundy shot-silk taffeta farthingale, with a black
velvet band covering the bent rope.

17 yards to go...:)

Drea


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jul 10 14:12:34 2003
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Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 10:25:40 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] US Airline restrictions - sewing stuff (?)
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>I'm making a coast-to-coast run this weekend with fairly long layovers & 
>I'd like to get some hemming/handwork finished.  Since 9/11, I know some 
>of my coworkers have had their manicure set scissors taken away.
>
>I want to be completely on the up-and-up, but I also don't want to be 
>bored out of my skull.  Have any of you traveled in the US lately with 
>sewing implements?  Are needles (little sharps) ok?  How about snips?  I 
>assume ghingers are still out. I can imagine trying to get through with a 
>set of pinking shears. :)

I saw an ad, in a recent needlework catalog, for those Clover round 
medallions that are really thread cutters, and the ad said it was OK for 
airline travel.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 14:20:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Spiral farthingale
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There's no real proof one way or the other that it's a forepart or a
farthingale.

>From the descriptions of decorated foreparts I've read and the ones I've
seen in pictures, however, I'm more included to believe this is a
farthingale. It looks more like bent rope stitched to a skirt than
the decorative embroidery motifs found in portraits and wardrobe accounts.
Plus, the asymettrical bottom is something you'd more likely see in a
farthingale, rather than a forepart with decorative welts or cord going
around it, where it would be much easier to keep the trim parallel at the
bottom.

Decorative foreparts were sometimes sewn to farthingales, an indication
that in some cases the farthingale could be worn directly beneath the
front skirt opening, rather than under a kirtle beneath the front skirt
opening.

I'm keeping an eye out for more definitive proof; if you find any, I'd
love to know.

Thanks,

Drea



 On Thu, 10 Jul 2003, Signora Apollonia Margherita degli Albizzi
wrote:

> Just out of curiosity, why would you think this a farthingale, and not a
> decorated forepart?
>
> Apollonia
>
> Signora Apollonia Margherita degli Albizzi
> Kingdom of Atlantia
> www.livejournal.com/users/apollonia
>
> **La vita senz'onore e un viver morto.**
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Drea Leed
> Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 10:11 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope
>
>
>
> >> I'm really looking forward to making a farthingale out of it.  I think
> >> I'll do the spiral-up-the-farthingale method, rather than separate
> >> rings, to avoid kinking.
>
> >
> > I can picture this, but I've never heard of it--was it done in the 16th
> > century?
>
> There's a picture of a woman in the Milanese Tailor's Handbook, where her
> farthingale appears to start at the bottom and spiral up:
> http://costume.dm.net/Tailors/pages/f103R.html
>
> The rope appears to have been whipstitched to the outside of the Italian
> woman's farthingale, rather than sewn into tucks.
>
> I've seen another, similar picture, showing the bottom ring going around
> and then the rest slanting a bit, but can't currently remember where.
>
> I found a tailor's bill which mentioned "50 yds of bent rope" (sic) for
> two spanish farthingales, which works out to @25 yds apiece...only
> workable if the rope was sewn on as narrowly as it is on the Italian
> woman's skirt. That's the amount I plan to use on my next farthingale.
>
> In such a case it would be much easier, work-wise, to have one band of
> bent rope spiraling around than to cut and splice the two dozen or so
> separate rounds required. I have a hunch it will make the farthingale
> sturdier as well.  I've found references to bent rope on
> farthingales being covered with bands of contrasting fabric, which is
> what I plan to do: burgundy shot-silk taffeta farthingale, with a black
> velvet band covering the bent rope.
>
> 17 yards to go...:)
>
> Drea
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 14:22:05 -0400
From: ConstanceFairfax@cs.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Seams - to finish or not to finish
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I've been involved in some debates lately over the importance/authenticity of finishing seams. 

I was asked to judge an entry that was made of the most beautiful hand woven (by the entrant), slightly fulled diamond lozenge wool.  When I lifted the tunic, the front gore and rear gore were bulky in an odd way - and I turned to the inside & ALL of the seams were frenched. I talked to the entrant later about other construction techniques and the entrant agreed the frenching (unneccessary for this fabric) caused the problems with the gore.  Someone had told the entrant that it was proper to french those seams and if she did not she would lose points.  

*I* have also had people ask me "how did you finish that seam" - my reply is usually, "I ironed it flat" and occasionally, "I ironed it flat and fulled" The last time, the asker replied with a disappointed "Oh.  Tsk.  Tsk.  Tsk."  I haven't had any problem with the unfinished seams of linen shirts raveling...or wool dresses.

Certainly, there are instances that you'd want to finish a seam - if there's high stress, if you're using old or fine silk, etc...but WOOL on a non-stressed seam?  And, if you must finish the seam, why not do it in a more documentable way?  Is this a "serger mentality"?  

Constance
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From: "chiara" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <1D4B7F12.6B2523CB.349D0FDF@cs.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seams - to finish or not to finish
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 13:31:06 -0500
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I remember once when I was young finding a tailor's kit that belonged to my
father. This kit was one that showed you how to weave the frayed edges of
wool rip back into the fabric.

I had been thinking about this a while and wondered if this was possibly how
they finished seams for items such as these. I mean not only would you avoid
the fraying problem but the bulkiness as well.

Is there evidence of frayed edges being rewoven back into the fabric?

Sincerely,
Chiara
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <ConstanceFairfax@cs.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 1:22 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Seams - to finish or not to finish


: I've been involved in some debates lately over the importance/authenticity
of finishing seams.
:
: I was asked to judge an entry that was made of the most beautiful hand
woven (by the entrant), slightly fulled diamond lozenge wool.  When I lifted
the tunic, the front gore and rear gore were bulky in an odd way - and I
turned to the inside & ALL of the seams were frenched. I talked to the
entrant later about other construction techniques and the entrant agreed the
frenching (unneccessary for this fabric) caused the problems with the gore.
Someone had told the entrant that it was proper to french those seams and if
she did not she would lose points.
:
: *I* have also had people ask me "how did you finish that seam" - my reply
is usually, "I ironed it flat" and occasionally, "I ironed it flat and
fulled" The last time, the asker replied with a disappointed "Oh.  Tsk.
Tsk.  Tsk."  I haven't had any problem with the unfinished seams of linen
shirts raveling...or wool dresses.
:
: Certainly, there are instances that you'd want to finish a seam - if
there's high stress, if you're using old or fine silk, etc...but WOOL on a
non-stressed seam?  And, if you must finish the seam, why not do it in a
more documentable way?  Is this a "serger mentality"?
:
: Constance
: _______________________________________________
: h-costume mailing list
: h-costume@mail.indra.com
: http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: [h-cost] 
	Re: US Airline restrictions - sewing stuff (?) --- WEBSITE to check
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Sigh... there's a website... I'm just moaning 'cause it's the 5th or 6th 
time I've posted it somewhere or other. 
 http://www.tsa.gov/public/interapp/tsa_policy/tsa_policy_0010.xml

Yes, it's the official site, there's a link to the PDF file there.

*Yes* blunt tipped children's scissors are on the permitted list... have 
been for *months* now... as are nail clippers, even with the nice pointy 
files.

Knitting needles (and they finally updated the silly thing to include 
crochet hooks :-) are also permitted.. they don't even specify 
length/size/type limitations.  Personally, I think they finally realized 
that all of us who are major fidgiters were much easier to deal with 
when we had our safe "pointies" to keep our hands and at least half a 
brain busy on flights... rather than having to repeatedly tell us to 
stop climbing the sides of the plane, 'cause it makes them wobble :-)

I know people who have started taking sewing with them.... and the 
needles have been allowed.  I also know a few who took tapestry needles 
for cross-stitched who had them almost taken away.  Best bet is only 
take one or two with your project, put a couple more in your checked 
luggage just in case... then *respectfully* ask them (only if they 
object to them) to allow you to keep them, given that they are blunt, 
and not only smaller than a knitting needle but also less sharp than the 
pins on many PDA styluses.  Then don't object if they tell you to give 
them up anyway.

BTW, you *can* sew with a 26 or 28 tapestry needle, if the weave isn't 
*too* tight.  I've done it a couple of times because either I didn't 
realize it or because I'd lost my sharps.

Now after all of that... one thing they vaguely mention halfway down the 
first page is that individual screeners can decide that just because 
it's on the permitted list doesn't mean that you can bring it on.  If 
you have a copy of the official list, sometimes they'll decide "ok"... 
or at least let you mail it back to your home or destination.

*g* I had a pair of kid's scissors (blunt tipped) in my purse, and 
didn't realize it *before* it was put back on the permitted list (had 
forgotten they were there for the trip back home).  I also had needles 
pass through when they were *not* permitted.... left it in my work... 
again, by accident.  Then again, I'm the one who seems to always get 
dusted for explosive residue... too many computer chips in the kid's 
activities (like a Jumpstart LeapPad) I guess....

Best bet?  Pre-cut some lengths, wrap them on an empty bobbin/spool. 
 Take a needle or two, pack extras so you don't have to go shoppping, 
just in case.  Take the scissors with you (*blunt* tipped... see the 
website).... and be prepared to give them up if security proves to be 
PITAs.... Crayola's kiddie scissors cut fairly well, and they're usually 
under $5.

*g* And this time I'm saving this message so I can just run it up the 
next time...

-Elisabeth

>From: ConstanceFairfax@cs.com
>Subject: [h-cost] US Airline restrictions - sewing stuff (?)
>
>I'm making a coast-to-coast run this weekend with fairly long layovers & I'd like to get some hemming/handwork finished.  Since 9/11, I know some of my coworkers have had their manicure set scissors taken away.  
>
>I want to be completely on the up-and-up, but I also don't want to be bored out of my skull.  Have any of you traveled in the US lately with sewing implements?  Are needles (little sharps) ok?  How about snips?  I assume ghingers are still out. I can imagine trying to get through with a set of pinking shears. :)
>  
>



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Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 15:07:27 -0400
From: ConstanceFairfax@cs.com
To: h-costume@indra.com (Historical Costume)
Subject: THANK YOU - RE: [h-cost] Re: US Airline restrictions - sewing stuff
	(?) 
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Thank you everyone for your help - I'm a bit hypersensitive as I once unknowingly had a leatherman tool (a swiss army knife on steroids) in one of the many pockets of an overnight case - I got chewed out, and that was well before 9/11.

>Sigh... there's a website... I'm just moaning 'cause it's the 5th or 6th 
>time I've posted it somewhere or other. 

Sorry for the trouble- I did look on the internet before I posted my request but found very conflicting information.

Constance



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From: Ron Carnegie <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] clothing on display at Colonial Williamsburg?
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> 
> From: Cozit / Liz <cozit@comcast.net>
> Date: 2003/07/09 Wed PM 02:29:18 EDT
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] clothing on display at Colonial Williamsburg?
> 
> The DeWitt - Wallace has a room just for clothing and embroidery (and 
> other textiles)... Unless they're in the middle of making a major change 
> to the exhibit there's always something.
> 
> Having said that, as a heads up...  Double check the hours of the room 
> before you head over there.  I know that someone told me that it's 
> always open now, but just a few years ago it had fairly limited hours... 
> which weren't actually listed on the program for the Colonial area.  *G* 
> I got *very* *very* lucky... I was complaining (nicely, but I was very 
> unhappy because I had to leave the area before it was supposed to open 
> for the afternoon) at the information desk about how it was mentioned 
> specifically, but that no mention had been given of the limited hours, 
> and I had walked all the way over there *just* for that exhibit... and 
> one of the curators for the room just happened to be nearby, and on her 
> way to the room.  She was *so* nice... not only did she let me in, but 
> she let me stay there all by my lonesome in the (then) locked room when 
> she had to leave about 30 min. later... though she did turn the lights 
> by the doors off .... no prob, I was checking out the samplers at that 
> point :-)  .... Best ever trip for me there... I had the chance at a 30 
> min chat with the Tailor who happened to be in "his shop" that day as 
> well... about stays, corsets, and undertrimmings in general.)
> 
> I'm going to have to chose between CW and the Jamestown (including the 
> re-enactment area) this year... kiddies are coming along, so I'm 
> thinking it'll be Jamestown this summer....
> 
> -Elisabeth
> 
   If you do go to Jamestowne rather than the Dewitt you will miss the" Language of Clothing" exhibit which is currently up.  At least I think it is still up.  This is an very nice exhibit of historic clothing, and due to muted lighting conditions it is open when the muesum is.  Try the CW webpage www.history.org if you want more information, or the 1-800-history line.  Of course if you do go to the Jamsetown Settlement you can meet my wife!

Cheers,

Ron

R.Carnegie@verizon.net
"Argue for your limitations, and they are yours."
             R. Bach

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From: Ron Carnegie <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
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> 
> From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
> Date: 2003/07/09 Wed PM 02:42:22 EDT
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] clothing on display at Colonial Williamsburg?
> 
> Greetings
> 
> I'll be taking a road trip at the end of next week, and I'd like to 
> visit Colonial Williamsburg on the way since I've never been there.  I 
> was wondering if any of their historic clothing collection is on 
> display?  I believe Ron Carnegie works there and is also on this list...Ron?
> 
> Thanks,
> Melanie Schuessler
> http://www.faucet.net/costume
> 
   Yes I do, though not as a costumer.  The "Language of Costume" exhibit is currently on display at the Dewitt and is well worth anyone's time.  Unlike the old textiles room it has subdued lighting allowing it to remain open when the mueseum is open.  If you have the time, and are interested in something in particuler you can contact Linda Baumgarten to see things that are not currently displayed, but conservetors can be a little wonky if you just want to peruse.  Also you may want to meet Mark Hutter who is the tailor that is occasionally mentioned here or Max Hamric is is an excellent weaver currently working at the Abby Aldrich.  Some of his cloth is for sale at the "new" prentis store, but it is expensive.

Cheers,
Ron

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             R. Bach

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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seams - to finish or not to finish
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>
> Certainly, there are instances that you'd want to finish a seam - if
there's high stress, if you're using old or fine silk, etc...but WOOL on
a non-stressed seam?  And, if you must finish the seam, why not do it in
a more documentable way?  Is this a "serger mentality"?

I think it's more of an SCA-knee-jerk-A&S-judging-mentality.  I've met
other victims of it...one woman made a linen smock with unfinished seams,
and had photos of the unfinished seams of the original she based it off of
in her documentation and explained that that's why she'd done it the way
she had, and /still/ one of the judges docked her points for
it.  Very silly.

Drea

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Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 16:26:22 -0400
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seams - to finish or not to finish
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        It might be an SCA thing or not, but unless it is absolutely not
period, I prefer to finish some seams.  Linen ravels, velveteen spreads
little bits of fluff all over everything, and it is just neater.  Of
course, I haven't put any of my garb in competition either.  I don't
really think the judges know as much as they think they do and I know
that I don't know enough to argue with them myself.  It just seems like a
finished seam is - well - a finished seam.

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope
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>
> Oooh, that makes me happy!  I'm about to start a corded petticoat, and
> was dreading sewing those channels.  Whipstitching, though, *that* I can
> do very happily!  Though I think I might sew it to the inside of the
> petticoat rather than the outside.
>

I made myself a corded petticoat just recently and used this trick: Use a
double needle, put the cording on the bottom of your fabric and have the
needle straddle it. The bobbin thread zig-zags to keep the cording in place!

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot
BRF FOF; Guilde of St. Lawrence

A room without books is like a body without a soul
---Cicero

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************

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From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seams - to finish or not to finish
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I've become a proponent of finished seams, usually with the seam allowance
pressed flat (with my thumb, not an iron) and whipped down.  I've found
that it makes the seam flatter, especially with fabrics that are bulky or
particularly springy (a well-fulled wool and a wool crepe, respectively),
and I never have to re-press them open.

I think the entry's mistake (not necesssarily the entrant's mistake) was
the assumption that french seams are the only proper seam finish.

Emma

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: gothic fitted gown questions
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Robin:

> Hmm, sounds like the front continued straight far lower than I would
> have done. I look for the point at which the pieces want to diverge
> and flare/gore gently from that point. You *want* the belly to
> protrude.

Tasha:

> Well, yes, and I think this gown was made too tight across the
> ribcage, and that probably carried over to the abdomen. I do include a
> section in my website for fitting the abdomen, and it discusses the
> same issue -- that we can create our waist wherever we want, often
> much higher than the bellybutton-waist that modern fashion dictates. I
> flare from that point of smallest circumference around the middle. The
> flare often begins anywhere from 2 to 4 inches below the bottom of the
> bust, max. The bellybutton tends to be around 6-7 inches below the
> bottom of the bust, very roughly guessing.

Me again:

Yes! Me too. When I fit the torso, I let the fabric pieces fall open below
the functional supportive fitting area and then pin the edges in place to
skim the swell of the top of the belly, increasing the flare on the same
angle as I go further down so it falls into the typical folding pattern
you see in the artwork -- from about halfway between waist and hip.
There's actually a mathematical model you can use for this, but just doing
it on the body means you don't have to measure or figure. The point at
which you depart from the "skimming" and simply maintain the flare
determines the ultimate flare on the skirt.

I allow enough seam allowance on the front opening to let me get a little
of the flare into the front panels; when I hit the edge of the panel,
that's where the gore comes in. This is, of course, on the lining. When I
use the lining to cut the main fabric, I can sometimes scoot the entire
piece a bit further over from the selvedge to capture all of the flare
without having to gore the main fabric.  In other words, you can have a
gore on your lining and still not need a gore on the outside. It all
depends on the degree of flare required on the particular woman, and the
degree of fullness you want in the skirt.

It's worth noting that the earlier fitted dresses (c. 1350) have a more
columnar look, and clearly less flare; they're narrower all the way down
compared with later ones. The Machaut manuscripts are the obvious example,
though there are many others, all from this period. I have some theories
about why this was so at this point in the century, and what technological
developments contributed to the wider skirts of a few decades later, but
this is better explained in person, with pictures.

--Robin


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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope
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> Oooh, that makes me happy!  I'm about to start a corded petticoat, and
> was dreading sewing those channels.  Whipstitching, though, *that* I can
> do very happily!  Though I think I might sew it to the inside of the
> petticoat rather than the outside.

True.  One thing, though--it can be demmed uncomfortable trying to sit in
a petticoat corded on the inside, depending on the size of the cording. :)

I'm looking forward to seeing how the bands of contrasting color look on
the outside, once I'm done.

Let me know how yours works...we can compare.

I've been thinking about exactly what evidence we have, from period
sources, about how farthingales were stiffened.

*We have the name: verdugado, or "sapling-guard", an indication that
they were made of wood (or willow withies, or osiers) and sewn as "guards"
onto skirts.

*We have pictures of farthingales from late 15th c. spain, that clearly
have round hoops fastened to the outside of the skirt at various points
along the length of the skirt, covered with fabric.
(http://costume.dm.net/farthingale/images/salome.gif)

*We have Alcega's pattern for the shape of the skirt, but unfortunately he
says nothing about how the willow bents are to be attached to this item.
(http://costume.dm.net/images/alcega.gif)

*We have written references to farthingales stiffened with bent rope and
whalebone in 1560s and 1570s england. Again, no details about how they
were sewn on. Also, references to "styffeninge" farthingales, by some
unknown method. (starch? adding more bent?) and references to covering
bent rope with fabric. All from Elizabeth's wardrobe accounts.

*We have a depiction of a "spanish apron", which bears a striking
resemblance to a farthingale sliced up the front with padding around the
hips. (http://www.elizabethanlady.com/images/farthingale/spanishapron.jpg)

*We have a picture of a Spanish lady in Morocco wearing
a farthingale stiffened with a semi-stiff material, sewn into what looks
like tucked channels, dated from 1545.
(http://costume.dm.net/farthingale/images/rope-farth1545-sm.gif)

*We have various pictures (such as the italian woman aforementioned, the
woodcut of Queen Elizabeth out hunting, and others) which could possibly
show farthingales worn under skirts...though this isn't certain.
(http://costume.dm.net/Tailors/pages/f103R.html), and
(http://costume.dm.net/gallery/images/lizpic1.gif)

*We have a picture showing the back side of a french woman that reveals
the bottom edge of her farthingale underneath her skirt, revealing a hoop
along the bottom edge.

And that's it, really. All other information that I've found has been
interpretations based on the above facts, including Arnold's recreation of
the alcega farthingale by sewing separate wood hoops into tucks, and
comments by the authors of all other major costume history works.

There's really precious little out there. One picture supports the
idea that the stiffening material was sewn into tucks; two others
support the idea that they were sewn on as separate rings around the
skirt, and then covered with fabric.  One picture suggests that the
rope was applied as a spiral on the outside of the skirt. All 16th c. pics
of what we interpret to be farthingales show the stiffening applied in
rows much closer than the 5 or 6 rows that most recreated farthingales display.

We don't even know much about exactly what was used for stiffening.  The
name suggests willow osiers, the 1545 picture suggests rope or rag or some
non-stiff material, and Elizabeth's wardrobe accounts suggest bent-rope.
There's no indication that hoops were sewn on the inner side of the
farthingale, or rope sewn on tucks on the inner side of the farthingale.
Though given the dearth of evidence, it's entirely possible this was done
as well.

Just thinking out loud...

Drea

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In a message dated 7/10/2003 4:02:38 PM Central Standard Time, 
drea@nospam writes:

> *We have Alcega's pattern for the shape of the skirt, but unfortunately he
> says nothing about how the willow bents are to be attached to this item.
> (http://costume.dm.net/images/alcega.gif)
> 

Hey! I was wondering something. Janet arnold says that Alcega's farthingale 
was so long because of the extra material needed for the tucks....but all of 
his kirtles are that long...49.5" long (bm). His instructions say nothing about 
tucks. Wussup wit dat? 
 
-Sarra Wryght
Elizabethan Dress Journals: http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/index.html
Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Name stuff was Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope
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>
>
>Sarra LoreleiMorte@aol.com wrote:
>
>I am Sarra who is also Sarah but not Sarah. Mundanely, I am Sarah, not 
>mundanely I am Sarra. See how creative and original I am? I think I should have a 
>title "No-The-Other-One". 
>
Well, honestly, you aren't alone there! Nealy every time I have had to 
pick a name for reenacting/interpreting/persona, I have picked ... 
something beginning with "Ma". Usually with an "r" in it somewhere. 
Mary, Marie, Marian, Margery, Marguerie. And my real name (the part I 
like) is Maura. It just makes sense, because I ought to answer to the 
name I pick, and the one time I didn't, I always did that obvious "Huh? 
What? Me?" thing when my name was called, so the other interpreters just 
told the audience I was hard of hearing (when they noticed) and waved at 
me. :P

Now, here's the fun part. In SCA, my name is Marguerie. The herald who 
helped me document my full name and fill out the paperwork to register 
it is ... Marguerite. She's also my sister-in-law. No, neither of us 
caught this when we were researching it. So, now people who are trying 
to get my attention when both of us are around say "no, the t-less one". 
Unfortunately, we are often around each other at events ... I have a 
horrible feeling that it's going to degenerate into "Tee" and "Notee" at 
some long event. Her kids get around it by calling me Auntie Em. Whee ;)

Maura, or maybe that should read "Just call me Em".

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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope
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Status: RO

That's exactly what I was thinking that got me started on
reevaluating farthingale reconstruction...sounds like a problem with
drafting up, or some such, rather than extra material designed for tucks.

Damn, website rewrite time...

Drea

On Thu, 10 Jul 2003 LoreleiMorte@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 7/10/2003 4:02:38 PM Central Standard Time,
> drea@nospam writes:
>
> > *We have Alcega's pattern for the shape of the skirt, but unfortunately he
> > says nothing about how the willow bents are to be attached to this item.
> > (http://costume.dm.net/images/alcega.gif)
> >
>
> Hey! I was wondering something. Janet arnold says that Alcega's farthingale
> was so long because of the extra material needed for the tucks....but all of
> his kirtles are that long...49.5" long (bm). His instructions say nothing about
> tucks. Wussup wit dat?
>
> -Sarra Wryght
> Elizabethan Dress Journals: http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/index.html
> Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: [h-cost] OT:Pirates of the Caribbean
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Dear list,

I saw this movie last night (not realizing that it had just opened) and
wanted to comment that the costuming wasn't too bad.  Of course it isn't a
true period movie but the costumes were pretty good and tended to stay
within the same period (1770-ish).

On the non-costume side, Johnny Depp was fabulous and Orlando Bloom
(Legolas from LOTR) was great to watch!  He is a good actor and I don't
think I will get tired of watching him on screen.  The female lead was
pretty and a strong woman which was nice to watch as well.  It was a fun
movie overall.

Diana


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From: "chiara" <chiara@io.com>
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The costumes are already on ebay, the corsets are not too shabby. :)

Sincerely,
Chiara
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <dch@inreach.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 4:44 PM
Subject: [h-cost] OT:Pirates of the Caribbean


: Dear list,
:
: I saw this movie last night (not realizing that it had just opened) and
: wanted to comment that the costuming wasn't too bad.  Of course it isn't a
: true period movie but the costumes were pretty good and tended to stay
: within the same period (1770-ish).
:
: On the non-costume side, Johnny Depp was fabulous and Orlando Bloom
: (Legolas from LOTR) was great to watch!  He is a good actor and I don't
: think I will get tired of watching him on screen.  The female lead was
: pretty and a strong woman which was nice to watch as well.  It was a fun
: movie overall.
:
: Diana
:
:
: _______________________________________________
: h-costume mailing list
: h-costume@mail.indra.com
: http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope
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In a message dated 7/10/2003 4:27:22 PM Central Standard Time, 
drea@nospam writes:

> That's exactly what I was thinking that got me started on
> reevaluating farthingale reconstruction...sounds like a problem with
> drafting up, or some such, rather than extra material designed for tucks.
> 
> Damn, website rewrite time...
> 

When I was making my first Alcega kirtle, I was like..."daaaaaamn, this is 
hella long!" I'm 5' 10" and had to hack off a huge amount of length. I saw that 
the farthingale was the same length and was like "WTF?" ...I feel all 
disillusioned now :)

-Sarra Wryght
Elizabethan Dress Journals: http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/index.html
Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT:Pirates of the Caribbean-oooh Johnny!
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 15:46:09 -0700
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I don't follow movies much, but since I saw Chocolate with Johnny Dep I
swore I would see him in everything he makes.  I saw the trailers for POTC
and, well...drooled a little.  I think he is hot, hot, hot.  I'd jump his
bones any day!  Sorry Bjarne, Sorry Jeff!  :}



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT:Pirates of the Caribbean-oooh Johnny!
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On Thursday, July 10, 2003, at 03:46  PM, Saragrace T. Knauf wrote:

> I don't follow movies much, but since I saw Chocolate with Johnny Dep I
> swore I would see him in everything he makes.  I saw the trailers for 
> POTC
> and, well...drooled a little.  I think he is hot, hot, hot.  I'd jump 
> his
> bones any day!  Sorry Bjarne, Sorry Jeff!  :}

I hope I'm not the only one out here who fell in love with Johnny Depp 
during his stint on "21 Jump Street".  That show rocked for so many 
reasons, Depp was the main one.  ;)

Sarah-not-Sarra

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope
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Rebecca wrote:
>> Oooh, that makes me happy!  I'm about to start a corded petticoat, and
>> was dreading sewing those channels.  Whipstitching, though, *that* I can
>> do very happily!  Though I think I might sew it to the inside of the
>> petticoat rather than the outside.
> 
> I made myself a corded petticoat just recently and used this trick: Use a
> double needle, put the cording on the bottom of your fabric and have the
> needle straddle it. The bobbin thread zig-zags to keep the cording in place!

Um, I was intending to hand stitch it.  But I'm sure your method would
also work :)

K.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT:Pirates of the Caribbean
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Johnny Depp is quite scrumptialicious as a pirate....but there were a few
things that really irritated me.  The major one was that the heroine keeps
complaining throughout the movie about having to wear corsets as if it's a
new thing to her.  An upper-class lady like herself would have been wearing
corsets for years....it bugged me.   Plus her father gives her a new dress
from London (they had ready-to-wear back then?) and when he asks about how
it fits she's just putting her corset on and commenting that ladies in
London must not breathe.  I wanted to yell at the screen "he gave you a
DRESS, not UNDERWEAR!!!"

*sigh*   But it still made me want to dress all piratey.  ^_^

-- Maral

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "chiara" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 6:00 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT:Pirates of the Caribbean


> The costumes are already on ebay, the corsets are not too shabby. :)
>
> Sincerely,
> Chiara
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <dch@inreach.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 4:44 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] OT:Pirates of the Caribbean
>
>
> : Dear list,
> :
> : I saw this movie last night (not realizing that it had just opened) and
> : wanted to comment that the costuming wasn't too bad.  Of course it isn't
a
> : true period movie but the costumes were pretty good and tended to stay
> : within the same period (1770-ish).
> :
> : On the non-costume side, Johnny Depp was fabulous and Orlando Bloom
> : (Legolas from LOTR) was great to watch!  He is a good actor and I don't
> : think I will get tired of watching him on screen.  The female lead was
> : pretty and a strong woman which was nice to watch as well.  It was a fun
> : movie overall.
> :
> : Diana
> :
> :
> : _______________________________________________
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> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope
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Drea wrote:
> True.  One thing, though--it can be demmed uncomfortable trying to sit in
> a petticoat corded on the inside, depending on the size of the cording. :)

My cord is 6mm hemp.  I was planning on only cording up to about knee
height, at about 2" separation between bands.

> *We have written references to farthingales stiffened with bent rope and
> whalebone in 1560s and 1570s england. Again, no details about how they
> were sewn on. Also, references to "styffeninge" farthingales, by some
> unknown method. (starch? adding more bent?) and references to covering
> bent rope with fabric. All from Elizabeth's wardrobe accounts.

Hrm, no written references to hempen cord, though.  Though the Italian
woman definitely *looks* like hers is using normal rope.

> We don't even know much about exactly what was used for stiffening.  The
> name suggests willow osiers, the 1545 picture suggests rope or rag or some
> non-stiff material, and Elizabeth's wardrobe accounts suggest bent-rope.
> There's no indication that hoops were sewn on the inner side of the
> farthingale, or rope sewn on tucks on the inner side of the farthingale.
> Though given the dearth of evidence, it's entirely possible this was done
> as well.

Hrm, perhaps I would consider doing my hemp on the outside (as seems
more accurate) if I dye it and the fabric to match.  I think brown hemp
on white or undyed brownish linen would look dorky, but if both were red
or something it would be pretty cool.

K.
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Diana wrote:
> I saw this movie last night (not realizing that it had just opened) and
> wanted to comment that the costuming wasn't too bad.  Of course it isn't a
> true period movie but the costumes were pretty good and tended to stay
> within the same period (1770-ish).

I thought that the purplish gown that Barbosa gave to Elizabeth to wear
looked like a much earlier period... mid-17th century? ... but I wasn't
sure.  But yes, most of the costumes were pretty well done, I thought.

> It was a fun
> movie overall.

I loved it.  Depp was amazing, in particular.

K.
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: OT:Pirates of the Caribbean
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OH, I have to jump on the OT bandwagon!!!  I haven't seen the movie yet.  I 
tried last night, but didn't want to see an 11 o'clock showing so will try 
again later.

I want to say that I fell for Johnny in his 21 Jump Street days.  I was just 
a little kid, but I knew a good thing when I saw it!!!  :)  Ever since, I've 
been a huge fan.

I also want to add that ever time I saw the preview for this movie I would 
start yelling at the screen about how corsets are not painful.  I would make 
this huge scene making sure that everyone I was with knew that that lady is 
just a wimp and it is this terrible myth that I have a personal vindetta 
against.

Anyway...  can't wait to drool...  I mean *see* the movie!!!

:) jessica

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 17:36:54 -0700
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bodice From tailors book
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> I scaled the bodice pattern f.60 Page 45 Tailor's Pattern Book 1589
> Juan de Alcega up until it fitted me. I didn't make any other
> alterations to the pattern. The cut of the straps look a bit strange
> on the pattern but are quite comfortable. I was supprised how wel it
> fits. I could use a little more room at my waist and maby a little les
> at the top. I wonder how the actual dress would have looked like. The
> pattern say's Kirtle and low cut bodice of cloth rash for a woman.
> Does this mean that was the bodice of a kirtle or that it were two
> different items?

By this time kirtle referred only to the skirt, not a skirt and 
bodice combination. So, this refers to two items: a skirt and 
separate bodice.

>The point in front is long and pointy, from wich time
> would this bodice have been?

Alcega is from 1589 (or thereabouts, with 1589 being the main date 
given for the book.) So the bodice would be 1589 or thereabouts if 
you used the same depth of point as the one in Alcega.
 
Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 18:11:48 -0700
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ummm.....hemp rope has little stray ends that poke out of the channels
through the fabric and is uncomfortable and itchy.  Tried this once and
decided that wrapping the rope in fabric a couple of times before inserting
into channels might be wise.  Cutting off wild bits before wrapping in
fabric is also recommended.

Lisa Sinervo


----- Original Message -----
From: "Kirrily Robert" <skud@infotrope.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 4:17 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope


> Drea wrote:
> > True.  One thing, though--it can be demmed uncomfortable trying to sit
in
> > a petticoat corded on the inside, depending on the size of the cording.
:)
>
> My cord is 6mm hemp.  I was planning on only cording up to about knee
> height, at about 2" separation between bands.
>
> > *We have written references to farthingales stiffened with bent rope and
> > whalebone in 1560s and 1570s england. Again, no details about how they
> > were sewn on. Also, references to "styffeninge" farthingales, by some
> > unknown method. (starch? adding more bent?) and references to covering
> > bent rope with fabric. All from Elizabeth's wardrobe accounts.
>
> Hrm, no written references to hempen cord, though.  Though the Italian
> woman definitely *looks* like hers is using normal rope.
>
> > We don't even know much about exactly what was used for stiffening.  The
> > name suggests willow osiers, the 1545 picture suggests rope or rag or
some
> > non-stiff material, and Elizabeth's wardrobe accounts suggest bent-rope.
> > There's no indication that hoops were sewn on the inner side of the
> > farthingale, or rope sewn on tucks on the inner side of the farthingale.
> > Though given the dearth of evidence, it's entirely possible this was
done
> > as well.
>
> Hrm, perhaps I would consider doing my hemp on the outside (as seems
> more accurate) if I dye it and the fabric to match.  I think brown hemp
> on white or undyed brownish linen would look dorky, but if both were red
> or something it would be pretty cool.
>
> K.
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>  I
> talked to the entrant later about other construction techniques and
> the entrant agreed the frenching (unneccessary for this fabric) caused
> the problems with the gore.  Someone had told the entrant that it was
> proper to french those seams and if she did not she would lose points.

Did they show the person any documentation that frenching was period 
to begin with? I haven't found documentation for it until quite a bit 
past the usual "pre17thC" period. I've found felled seams, mock 
felled seams, overcast edges (which to me can take the place of 
"serging") and the like, but I've never found french seams.

> *I* have also had people ask me "how did you finish that seam" - my
> reply is usually, "I ironed it flat" and occasionally, "I ironed it
> flat and fulled" The last time, the asker replied with a disappointed
> "Oh.  Tsk.  Tsk.  Tsk."  I haven't had any problem with the unfinished
> seams of linen shirts raveling...or wool dresses.

I've found a lot of problems with linen ravelling like crazy. In 
fact, I know some people who won't make things with linen because 
they say that they hate the way it ravels and can't afford a serger.

In terms of wool, it depends on how well fulled it is. Fulling it 
sufficiently *is* a form of seam finish.

> Certainly, there are instances that you'd want to finish a seam - if
> there's high stress, if you're using old or fine silk, etc...but WOOL
> on a non-stressed seam?  And, if you must finish the seam, why not do
> it in a more documentable way?  Is this a "serger mentality"?  

I don't think it's "serger mentality" since most of the people I hear 
about it the most from don't even use sergers.

I think it is just misinformation. They hear that seams should be 
appropriately finished, remember the French Seams that someone taught 
them, and think that that's "appropriate". What they need is 
*appropriate" information about *appropriate* seam finishing 
techniques.

If I had to finish the seams on a dress with gores, I think that I'd 
probably use a mock fell. More documentable to more time periods 
(from early Viking through 14th C through 16th C and on to "early 
modern" times.) And it's not so bulky! (It's especially helpful for 
keeping those awful little points at the top of gores from fraying 
out.

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Redneck fabric stores and men
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 20:19:13 -0500
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Bad, bad Ramona.  Go stand in the corner now.

Genie
----- Original Message -----
From: <FABRICHOARDER@aol.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 8:33 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Redneck fabric stores and men


> Fabric with tractors on it?  You could do a historical interpretation of a
WWII-era dress.  Picture this:  a woman writing to her boyfriend overseas,
saying she's breaking off the engagement to stay home & work on the farm--a
John Deere letter.  Dear John, get it?
>
> Ramona
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Redneck fabric stores and men
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 21:04:57 -0700
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> Where i live you can't find gingham (I like the 1" for mockups)

Omigosh!  You're a genius, and for the life of me, I can't think why I
didn't think of it myself, earlier. <g>  Back to the Joann's from hell, to
check out 1" gingham!

Pam Dotson



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT:Pirates of the Caribbean
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Well if we're going to be like *that*, I'd like to mention that 18th
century pistols don't fire very reliably (that's what we call
understatement) after 10 years of being carried around loaded, soaked in
seawater, etc.  Also, granny smith apples are a 19th century variety
originating in Tasmania.  But then, I'm a great big nerd when it comes
to picking holes in the historical aspects of films.

I still think the movie was great.  But (ob-Costume) do you think Will's
costume in the final scene was kinda "three musketeers"?  I did.

K.

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From: "chiara" <chiara@io.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seams - to finish or not to finish
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 20:24:53 -0500
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Then I guess the question then I have is this:

What is the seam finish and dates with them do we have?

hand pressed: 
hand pressed and whipped stitched:
frenched:
flat felled:
mock flat felled:
pinked:
hemmed:
sergred:
Others:

Chiara
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <kat@grendal.rain.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 8:16 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seams - to finish or not to finish


: 
: >  I
: > talked to the entrant later about other construction techniques and
: > the entrant agreed the frenching (unneccessary for this fabric) caused
: > the problems with the gore.  Someone had told the entrant that it was
: > proper to french those seams and if she did not she would lose points.
: 
: Did they show the person any documentation that frenching was period 
: to begin with? I haven't found documentation for it until quite a bit 
: past the usual "pre17thC" period. I've found felled seams, mock 
: felled seams, overcast edges (which to me can take the place of 
: "serging") and the like, but I've never found french seams.
: 
: > *I* have also had people ask me "how did you finish that seam" - my
: > reply is usually, "I ironed it flat" and occasionally, "I ironed it
: > flat and fulled" The last time, the asker replied with a disappointed
: > "Oh.  Tsk.  Tsk.  Tsk."  I haven't had any problem with the unfinished
: > seams of linen shirts raveling...or wool dresses.
: 
: I've found a lot of problems with linen ravelling like crazy. In 
: fact, I know some people who won't make things with linen because 
: they say that they hate the way it ravels and can't afford a serger.
: 
: In terms of wool, it depends on how well fulled it is. Fulling it 
: sufficiently *is* a form of seam finish.
: 
: > Certainly, there are instances that you'd want to finish a seam - if
: > there's high stress, if you're using old or fine silk, etc...but WOOL
: > on a non-stressed seam?  And, if you must finish the seam, why not do
: > it in a more documentable way?  Is this a "serger mentality"?  
: 
: I don't think it's "serger mentality" since most of the people I hear 
: about it the most from don't even use sergers.
: 
: I think it is just misinformation. They hear that seams should be 
: appropriately finished, remember the French Seams that someone taught 
: them, and think that that's "appropriate". What they need is 
: *appropriate" information about *appropriate* seam finishing 
: techniques.
: 
: If I had to finish the seams on a dress with gores, I think that I'd 
: probably use a mock fell. More documentable to more time periods 
: (from early Viking through 14th C through 16th C and on to "early 
: modern" times.) And it's not so bulky! (It's especially helpful for 
: keeping those awful little points at the top of gores from fraying 
: out.
: 
: Kat
: <kat@redtrollforge.com>
: 
: 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope
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Lisa wrote:
> ummm.....hemp rope has little stray ends that poke out of the channels
> through the fabric and is uncomfortable and itchy.  Tried this once and
> decided that wrapping the rope in fabric a couple of times before inserting
> into channels might be wise.  Cutting off wild bits before wrapping in
> fabric is also recommended.

Mine's not too scratchy, and I was also planning on putting it through
the washing machine to bang it up a bit and pre-shrink it... since if I
want the farthingale to be washable, I don't want the rope to shrink
more than the cloth.  Also, if I sew the hemp to the outside of the
farthingale, it'll have the farthingale, and my long smock, and my long
stockings to get through before it can poke at me.  I think it'll be fine.

K.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 21:02:49 -0500
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>
> Um, I was intending to hand stitch it.  But I'm sure your method would
> also work :)
>
> K.

You obviously have a lot more time than I do - I have too many other
projects to sit and stitch anything by hand!

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot
BRF FOF; Guilde of St. Lawrence

A room without books is like a body without a soul
---Cicero

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************

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Subject: Re: splicing, was Re: [h-cost] Re: QE I - how tall?
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Status: RO

Hi. Do you wet the reeds or steam them first to make them pliable?  A 
good example of the binding of the hoops on containers is seen in the 
foreground of Vincenzo Campi's The Fruit Seller ca 1580. The container 
of grapes has hoops that are bound with willow or vine (?).  Cheers, Mike T.

Drea Leed wrote:

>The reeds are pretty bulky; 20 of them create a 5/8 inch diameter cord.
>I'm going to try hand-twisting some into a two strand rope once I've
>finished with this method, to see what sort of differences I find between
>the two methods.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Drea
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
>  
>


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jul 10 22:42:27 2003
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Status: RO

It certainly helped fitting a couple of cottes, 1 for myself fitted by 
Marcelle, and one that I fitted using what I learned from Marcelle.  It 
made it absurdly simple to keep the fitting on grain.  Just make sure 
you get the woven type of gingham, not printed.

Jenne

>Omigosh!  You're a genius, and for the life of me, I can't think why I
>didn't think of it myself, earlier. <g>  Back to the Joann's from hell, to
>check out 1" gingham!
>
>Pam Dotson
>  
>



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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT:Pirates of the Caribbean
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Status: RO

Hi. Haven't seen the movie (and won't, 'cause I don't like Disney or 
their politics), but the trailers are everywhere, and the hype is 
tremendous. From what I have seen, though, the military uniforms appear 
later in period than the "pirates". Depp appears to be wearing a coat 
from the "Golden Age of Piracy", usually considered to be 1690-1730, but 
I'm sure that accuracy was a piddling consideration compared to the 
"look" that they were trying to get. Just a question, though. Besides 
Howard Pyle and his ilk, does anyone know of any real historically 
documented evidence that any "pirates" were wearing the "bucket top 
boot" style of footwear? I have never seen a picture of any people 
reported to be pirates wearing other than shoes of the period, or bare 
feet. I don't believe anyone on the seas would bother wearing what was 
predominantly a horseman's form of footwear (spurs or not).  Mike T.



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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jul 10 22:46:51 2003
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Hi. Of course, as if to contradict all of the evidence presented by the 
many women on this list, as well as others, one of the ads for the movie 
presented the female lead stating "Oh, you like pain, do you? Try 
wearing a corset."   Is there a little character for a sneer on my 
keyboard?  Mike T.

chiara wrote:

>The costumes are already on ebay, the corsets are not too shabby. :)
>
>Sincerely,
>Chiara
>  
>


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Redneck fabric stores and men
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On Thu, 10 Jul 2003, Justine Magill wrote:

> It certainly helped fitting a couple of cottes, 1 for myself fitted by 
> Marcelle, and one that I fitted using what I learned from Marcelle.  It 
> made it absurdly simple to keep the fitting on grain.  Just make sure 
> you get the woven type of gingham, not printed.

I think it was fabric-store.com that used to have, and maybe still has,
linen woven with a gingham-like pattern that would have made a good grid.

You'd want to do your fittings in linen if possible; it behaves
differently from cotton. So it would be ideal to have a gridded linen
rather than use cotton gingham.

--Robin

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From: "Ashley Wells" <ashleyw@erols.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: THANK YOU - RE: [h-cost] Re: US Airline restrictions - sewing
	stuff(?) 
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 22:54:03 -0400
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Could be worse - I was in the middle of a business trip when Desert
Storm was launched in 1991 - they weren't looking for "sharp objects,"
but they WERE going bonkers looking for "suspicious items" that could
"conceal terrorist devices" (i.e., explosives) - all at the local
airport security worker's discretion (translation: imagination).  I
still remember having to not only dump the contents of my cosmetics
pouch at 56 a.m. in Cincinnati, and not only tell the security screener
that the suspect item was a tube of lipstick/mascara/lipliner/whatever,
but actually open and demonstrate each and every item in the %*&&@) bag!
I must have delayed that flight by at least 15 minutes,
single-handedly....

Regards,

Ashley

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of ConstanceFairfax@cs.com
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 3:07 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: THANK YOU - RE: [h-cost] Re: US Airline restrictions - sewing
stuff(?) 

Thank you everyone for your help - I'm a bit hypersensitive as I once
unknowingly had a leatherman tool (a swiss army knife on steroids) in
one of the many pockets of an overnight case - I got chewed out, and
that was well before 9/11.

>Sigh... there's a website... I'm just moaning 'cause it's the 5th or
6th 
>time I've posted it somewhere or other. 

Sorry for the trouble- I did look on the internet before I posted my
request but found very conflicting information.

Constance



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You could try covering it with a strip of fabric.

The way I'm doing mine is, I'm stitching a narrow strip of fabric in a
spiral up the skirt, from hem to top. then I'm hand-whip-stitching the
bent rope over the fabric seam allowance, then folding the fabric over the
rope and hand-stitching it down.

Rope's coming along great, by the way!  15 yards made so far, 15 to go.
The more I handle it, the more I think this is the ultimate farthingale
boning material--made of period materials, stiffer along it's length than
hemp rope so it won't kink, much lighter than hemp rope (the 15 yards of
5/8" diameter rope weighs in at less than a pound), and incredibly strong
yet very flexible.  I can almost bend it entirely back on itself, without
anything snapping.

With stiffening like bent rope sewn on the outside, I'll bet the
farthingale material itself can be much lighter, since it doesn't have to
be sturdy enough to hold the boning material stiched
inside tucks. The fabric would act more as a shaped base to keep the
spiral of bent rope in place, rather than the rope working to "hold out"
the skirt to the proper location.

Happy happy,

Drea


 On Thu, 10 Jul 2003,
Kirrily Robert wrote:

> Drea wrote:
> > True.  One thing, though--it can be demmed uncomfortable trying to sit in
> > a petticoat corded on the inside, depending on the size of the cording. :)
>
> My cord is 6mm hemp.  I was planning on only cording up to about knee
> height, at about 2" separation between bands.
>
> > *We have written references to farthingales stiffened with bent rope and
> > whalebone in 1560s and 1570s england. Again, no details about how they
> > were sewn on. Also, references to "styffeninge" farthingales, by some
> > unknown method. (starch? adding more bent?) and references to covering
> > bent rope with fabric. All from Elizabeth's wardrobe accounts.
>
> Hrm, no written references to hempen cord, though.  Though the Italian
> woman definitely *looks* like hers is using normal rope.
>
> > We don't even know much about exactly what was used for stiffening.  The
> > name suggests willow osiers, the 1545 picture suggests rope or rag or some
> > non-stiff material, and Elizabeth's wardrobe accounts suggest bent-rope.
> > There's no indication that hoops were sewn on the inner side of the
> > farthingale, or rope sewn on tucks on the inner side of the farthingale.
> > Though given the dearth of evidence, it's entirely possible this was done
> > as well.
>
> Hrm, perhaps I would consider doing my hemp on the outside (as seems
> more accurate) if I dye it and the fabric to match.  I think brown hemp
> on white or undyed brownish linen would look dorky, but if both were red
> or something it would be pretty cool.
>
> K.
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From: ConstanceFairfax@cs.com
To: h-costume@indra.com (Historical Costume)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seams - to finish or not to finish
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>Did they show the person any documentation that frenching was period 
>to begin with? 
Nope.  I think it's just a well-wishing person w/ that "back of the embroidery has to be as neat as the front" theory - that it must transfer over into clothing construction - the neater the better, and the better, the more accurate, right? :)

There's always *someone* whose opinion is more valued than documentation
 - I always listened to everything you had to say when I lived in OR & only wish I'd been able to hear more!

I haven't found documentation for it until quite a bit 
>past the usual "pre17thC" period. I've found felled seams, mock 
>felled seams, overcast edges (which to me can take the place of 
>"serging") and the like, but I've never found french seams.
Nope.  Me neither.  I think they look odd, too.  Plus, french seams don't (IMHO) add any strength to the seam itself, as opposed to felled seams...

>I've found a lot of problems with linen ravelling like crazy. In 
>fact, I know some people who won't make things with linen because 
>they say that they hate the way it ravels and can't afford a serger.
Wow.  I have a serger & the only time my seams pull is when I use it. :)  It's been gathering dust, but I pull it out once in a while.  When I machine-stitch, it's a plain-old straight stitch.

>If I had to finish the seams on a dress with gores, I think that I'd 
>probably use a mock fell. More documentable to more time periods 
>(from early Viking through 14th C through 16th C and on to "early 
>modern" times.) And it's not so bulky! (It's especially helpful for 
>keeping those awful little points at the top of gores from fraying 
>out.
Yep.  I think the best gift to get any aspiring costumer is crowfoot, even if it's not their period.  I often refer to it, and I'm doing 16c Brussels. :)

Constance
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope
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	<E19aezM-0000xC-00@eggnog><20030710162150.K24337-100000@shell.siscom.net>
	<E19akes-0001JO-00@eggnog> <003901c34749$682a6760$dc0577d8@pavilion>
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Lisa Sinervo wrote:

>ummm.....hemp rope has little stray ends that poke out of the channels
>through the fabric and is uncomfortable and itchy.  Tried this once and
>decided that wrapping the rope in fabric a couple of times before inserting
>into channels might be wise.  Cutting off wild bits before wrapping in
>fabric is also recommended.
>
>  
>
One can also singe the 'hair' off rope, use a bic lighter or something.
Mind your fingers!

liz young


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Redneck fabric stores and men
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Robin Netherton wrote:

>On Thu, 10 Jul 2003, Justine Magill wrote:
>
>  
>
>>It certainly helped fitting a couple of cottes, 1 for myself fitted by 
>>Marcelle, and one that I fitted using what I learned from Marcelle.  It 
>>made it absurdly simple to keep the fitting on grain.  Just make sure 
>>you get the woven type of gingham, not printed.
>>    
>>
>
>I think it was fabric-store.com that used to have, and maybe still has,
>linen woven with a gingham-like pattern that would have made a good grid.
>
>  
>
And I have some (not enough for fitting a GFD) *smirk*
I've seen it in black and purple check and a green and lavender check.

liz young


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 sewingstuff(?)
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Hi.  I'm slogging through a lot of emails that backed up while my ISP
was having server meltdowns, plus I'm missing some emails, so pardon if
I've missed the point of this thread, or am duplicating someone's
comment.
I traveled to England and Ireland last summer, and what I did was check
restrictions with my airline, and also check the restrictions for the
various airports (Salt Lake City, Atlanta, and London).  They were
mostly concerned about sharp, pointy, cutty things. So, my embroidery
scissors were packed into my checked luggage, and I took pre-cut lengths
of silk floss on the plane with me (my interminable project is
blackworked stripes on a linen camicia).  I packed needles in with my
scissors, and also took a few on the plane with me.
I had no problems whatsoever (and, mind you, I was traveling around the
anniversary of 9-11, so security was exquisitely tight).  The needles I
had with me were simply tucked right into the fabric contained in the
embroidery hoop--it was quite obvious what they were for, and no one
said a thing.  I asked someone, at one point, and they said it helped to
know (through physical proximity) what the intended use was.  So maybe
hiding things isn't the best idea....
The embroidery helped keep me busy (gawd, but that's a long flight!),
and proved a *great* conversation piece--I had an aisle seat near a
bathroom coming back, and there was lots of foot traffic.  Not only was
it really nice to talk handcrafts with a bunch of different people, but
also a good opportunity to spread a bit of knowledge about an uncommon
embroidery style!
--sue
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From: "Lisa Sinervo" <lisa-list@threadneedlest.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20030710162150.K24337-100000@shell.siscom.net>
Subject: Another farthingale image was - Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 22:10:51 -0700
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Here's another image I recently ran across ........
http://www.threadneedlest.com/Bulletinboard.htm  French 1567 according to
Dress and Undress, Ahistory of Women's Underware.  Elizabeth Ewing

Lisa

----- Original Message -----
From: "Drea Leed" <drea@nospam>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 2:01 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope


>
> > Oooh, that makes me happy!  I'm about to start a corded petticoat, and
> > was dreading sewing those channels.  Whipstitching, though, *that* I can
> > do very happily!  Though I think I might sew it to the inside of the
> > petticoat rather than the outside.
>
> True.  One thing, though--it can be demmed uncomfortable trying to sit in
> a petticoat corded on the inside, depending on the size of the cording. :)
>
> I'm looking forward to seeing how the bands of contrasting color look on
> the outside, once I'm done.
>
> Let me know how yours works...we can compare.
>
> I've been thinking about exactly what evidence we have, from period
> sources, about how farthingales were stiffened.
>
> *We have the name: verdugado, or "sapling-guard", an indication that
> they were made of wood (or willow withies, or osiers) and sewn as "guards"
> onto skirts.
>
> *We have pictures of farthingales from late 15th c. spain, that clearly
> have round hoops fastened to the outside of the skirt at various points
> along the length of the skirt, covered with fabric.
> (http://costume.dm.net/farthingale/images/salome.gif)
>
> *We have Alcega's pattern for the shape of the skirt, but unfortunately he
> says nothing about how the willow bents are to be attached to this item.
> (http://costume.dm.net/images/alcega.gif)
>
> *We have written references to farthingales stiffened with bent rope and
> whalebone in 1560s and 1570s england. Again, no details about how they
> were sewn on. Also, references to "styffeninge" farthingales, by some
> unknown method. (starch? adding more bent?) and references to covering
> bent rope with fabric. All from Elizabeth's wardrobe accounts.
>
> *We have a depiction of a "spanish apron", which bears a striking
> resemblance to a farthingale sliced up the front with padding around the
> hips. (http://www.elizabethanlady.com/images/farthingale/spanishapron.jpg)
>
> *We have a picture of a Spanish lady in Morocco wearing
> a farthingale stiffened with a semi-stiff material, sewn into what looks
> like tucked channels, dated from 1545.
> (http://costume.dm.net/farthingale/images/rope-farth1545-sm.gif)
>
> *We have various pictures (such as the italian woman aforementioned, the
> woodcut of Queen Elizabeth out hunting, and others) which could possibly
> show farthingales worn under skirts...though this isn't certain.
> (http://costume.dm.net/Tailors/pages/f103R.html), and
> (http://costume.dm.net/gallery/images/lizpic1.gif)
>
> *We have a picture showing the back side of a french woman that reveals
> the bottom edge of her farthingale underneath her skirt, revealing a hoop
> along the bottom edge.
>
> And that's it, really. All other information that I've found has been
> interpretations based on the above facts, including Arnold's recreation of
> the alcega farthingale by sewing separate wood hoops into tucks, and
> comments by the authors of all other major costume history works.
>
> There's really precious little out there. One picture supports the
> idea that the stiffening material was sewn into tucks; two others
> support the idea that they were sewn on as separate rings around the
> skirt, and then covered with fabric.  One picture suggests that the
> rope was applied as a spiral on the outside of the skirt. All 16th c. pics
> of what we interpret to be farthingales show the stiffening applied in
> rows much closer than the 5 or 6 rows that most recreated farthingales
display.
>
> We don't even know much about exactly what was used for stiffening.  The
> name suggests willow osiers, the 1545 picture suggests rope or rag or some
> non-stiff material, and Elizabeth's wardrobe accounts suggest bent-rope.
> There's no indication that hoops were sewn on the inner side of the
> farthingale, or rope sewn on tucks on the inner side of the farthingale.
> Though given the dearth of evidence, it's entirely possible this was done
> as well.
>
> Just thinking out loud...
>
> Drea
>
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Jul 11 02:17:02 2003
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From: "Freyalyn Close-Hainsworth" <lynn@close-hainsworth.fslife.co.uk>
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Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 07:18:39 +0100
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This isn't fair.  This doesn't open in the UK until 8th August.  How can I
wait for Johnny and Orlando???

But this just underlines the general impression that all media want to give
of any costume that isn't modern - that it's uncomfortable.  People lived
and worked in their clothes - if it wasn't comfortable, they couldn't.

Freyalyn the Fluff Fiend

"If you're gonna ask someone to save the world, make sure they like it the
way it is". (XC, 2002)



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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT:Pirates of the Caribbean
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Frankly, for once I don't care what the two male leads' costumes look like,
though it should be right in my area of expertise, I'll just shut off the
authenticity-gene and DROOL over the two sexy boys/men. *laughs*

Nicole - in 'dirty old woman' mode

=====
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Email: nicole@kipar.org
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 --- Herself-the-Elf <herself-the-elf@rogers.com> wrote: > 
> corsets for years....it bugged me.   Plus her father gives her a new dress
> from London (they had ready-to-wear back then?) 

Shockingly enough, yes they did, to a certain extend, already in the second
half of the 17th century,and it started in the first half, though by then only
with smaller items and accessories. I have just read through quite a few
specialist late 17th c & 18th c studies in historical economics, and I was
astonished to see that 'almost ready-made' clothing was available, certainly if
he ordered it from a tailor, the customer wouldn't necessarily have to be
there. Not quite what we understand of 'ready made clothing', granted, but not
entirely untrue.

Nicole

=====
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT:Pirates of the Caribbean-oooh Johnny!
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 --- "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net> wrote: > I don't follow
movies much, but since I saw Chocolate with Johnny Dep I
> swore I would see him in everything he makes.  I saw the trailers for POTC
> and, well...drooled a little.  I think he is hot, hot, hot.  I'd jump his
> bones any day!  Sorry Bjarne, Sorry Jeff!  :}

*just nods gravely and with a manic glint in her eyes*

Ever since I saw him in Don Juan di Marco I fell for his dark eyes, dark hair
and boy those cheekbones are to die for!

Costume content? Nahhhh....

Nicole

=====
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT:Pirates of the Caribbean
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>The costumes are already on ebay, the corsets are not too shabby. :)

...except that it ripped right off Elizabeth when they tugged on it.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 10:57:26 +0200
Subject: Re: Another farthingale image was - Re: [h-cost] Making/finding
	bent rope
From: Cassandra Greer <cassandra@greer.de>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hmmm is that a 'low' neckline or a doublet she's wearing for her bodice?

Cass :)

> Here's another image I recently ran across ........
> http://www.threadneedlest.com/Bulletinboard.htm  French 1567 according to
> Dress and Undress, Ahistory of Women's Underware.  Elizabeth Ewing
> 
> Lisa
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Drea Leed" <drea@nospam>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 2:01 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope
> 
> 
>> 
>>> Oooh, that makes me happy!  I'm about to start a corded petticoat, and
>>> was dreading sewing those channels.  Whipstitching, though, *that* I can
>>> do very happily!  Though I think I might sew it to the inside of the
>>> petticoat rather than the outside.
>> 
>> True.  One thing, though--it can be demmed uncomfortable trying to sit in
>> a petticoat corded on the inside, depending on the size of the cording. :)
>> 
>> I'm looking forward to seeing how the bands of contrasting color look on
>> the outside, once I'm done.
>> 
>> Let me know how yours works...we can compare.
>> 
>> I've been thinking about exactly what evidence we have, from period
>> sources, about how farthingales were stiffened.
>> 
>> *We have the name: verdugado, or "sapling-guard", an indication that
>> they were made of wood (or willow withies, or osiers) and sewn as "guards"
>> onto skirts.
>> 
>> *We have pictures of farthingales from late 15th c. spain, that clearly
>> have round hoops fastened to the outside of the skirt at various points
>> along the length of the skirt, covered with fabric.
>> (http://costume.dm.net/farthingale/images/salome.gif)
>> 
>> *We have Alcega's pattern for the shape of the skirt, but unfortunately he
>> says nothing about how the willow bents are to be attached to this item.
>> (http://costume.dm.net/images/alcega.gif)
>> 
>> *We have written references to farthingales stiffened with bent rope and
>> whalebone in 1560s and 1570s england. Again, no details about how they
>> were sewn on. Also, references to "styffeninge" farthingales, by some
>> unknown method. (starch? adding more bent?) and references to covering
>> bent rope with fabric. All from Elizabeth's wardrobe accounts.
>> 
>> *We have a depiction of a "spanish apron", which bears a striking
>> resemblance to a farthingale sliced up the front with padding around the
>> hips. (http://www.elizabethanlady.com/images/farthingale/spanishapron.jpg)
>> 
>> *We have a picture of a Spanish lady in Morocco wearing
>> a farthingale stiffened with a semi-stiff material, sewn into what looks
>> like tucked channels, dated from 1545.
>> (http://costume.dm.net/farthingale/images/rope-farth1545-sm.gif)
>> 
>> *We have various pictures (such as the italian woman aforementioned, the
>> woodcut of Queen Elizabeth out hunting, and others) which could possibly
>> show farthingales worn under skirts...though this isn't certain.
>> (http://costume.dm.net/Tailors/pages/f103R.html), and
>> (http://costume.dm.net/gallery/images/lizpic1.gif)
>> 
>> *We have a picture showing the back side of a french woman that reveals
>> the bottom edge of her farthingale underneath her skirt, revealing a hoop
>> along the bottom edge.
>> 
>> And that's it, really. All other information that I've found has been
>> interpretations based on the above facts, including Arnold's recreation of
>> the alcega farthingale by sewing separate wood hoops into tucks, and
>> comments by the authors of all other major costume history works.
>> 
>> There's really precious little out there. One picture supports the
>> idea that the stiffening material was sewn into tucks; two others
>> support the idea that they were sewn on as separate rings around the
>> skirt, and then covered with fabric.  One picture suggests that the
>> rope was applied as a spiral on the outside of the skirt. All 16th c. pics
>> of what we interpret to be farthingales show the stiffening applied in
>> rows much closer than the 5 or 6 rows that most recreated farthingales
> display.
>> 
>> We don't even know much about exactly what was used for stiffening.  The
>> name suggests willow osiers, the 1545 picture suggests rope or rag or some
>> non-stiff material, and Elizabeth's wardrobe accounts suggest bent-rope.
>> There's no indication that hoops were sewn on the inner side of the
>> farthingale, or rope sewn on tucks on the inner side of the farthingale.
>> Though given the dearth of evidence, it's entirely possible this was done
>> as well.
>> 
>> Just thinking out loud...
>> 
>> Drea
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope
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Rebecca wrote:
>> Um, I was intending to hand stitch it.  But I'm sure your method would
>> also work :)
> 
> You obviously have a lot more time than I do - I have too many other
> projects to sit and stitch anything by hand!

I don't do everything by hand, but quite a bit.  Basically I use my
machine for long straight seams that don't show on the outside, and
that's about it.  Partly it's because I don't like the noisy machine and
having to go to the other room to use it, because if I sew by hand I can
sit on the comfy couch, chat to friends, watch Buffy, etc. Partly it's an 
authenticity thing.  I do SCA, but I tend towards the more obsessive end
of the accuracy scale :)

K.


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Subject: Re: Another farthingale image was - Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent 
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Interesting that they say she's French, when the label says
"L'Angloyse." (English?)
Or is it just the image that's French? <g>
It certainly is an intriguely odd hat style, though....and I'm trying to
figure out what that knotted piece of fabric is behind her (veil?)
Thanks for sharing!
--sue

Lisa Sinervo wrote:
> 
> Here's another image I recently ran across ........
> http://www.threadneedlest.com/Bulletinboard.htm  French 1567 according to
> Dress and Undress, Ahistory of Women's Underware.  Elizabeth Ewing
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope
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Hi,

could you post some pic's of this?  My mind is not working to well this AM.
Thanks,

Genie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Drea Leed" <drea@nospam>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 9:55 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope


> You could try covering it with a strip of fabric.
>
> The way I'm doing mine is, I'm stitching a narrow strip of fabric in a
> spiral up the skirt, from hem to top. then I'm hand-whip-stitching the
> bent rope over the fabric seam allowance, then folding the fabric over the
> rope and hand-stitching it down.
>
> Rope's coming along great, by the way!  15 yards made so far, 15 to go.
> The more I handle it, the more I think this is the ultimate farthingale
> boning material--made of period materials, stiffer along it's length than
> hemp rope so it won't kink, much lighter than hemp rope (the 15 yards of
> 5/8" diameter rope weighs in at less than a pound), and incredibly strong
> yet very flexible.  I can almost bend it entirely back on itself, without
> anything snapping.
>
> With stiffening like bent rope sewn on the outside, I'll bet the
> farthingale material itself can be much lighter, since it doesn't have to
> be sturdy enough to hold the boning material stiched
> inside tucks. The fabric would act more as a shaped base to keep the
> spiral of bent rope in place, rather than the rope working to "hold out"
> the skirt to the proper location.
>
> Happy happy,
>
> Drea
>
>
>  On Thu, 10 Jul 2003,
> Kirrily Robert wrote:
>
> > Drea wrote:
> > > True.  One thing, though--it can be demmed uncomfortable trying to sit
in
> > > a petticoat corded on the inside, depending on the size of the
cording. :)
> >
> > My cord is 6mm hemp.  I was planning on only cording up to about knee
> > height, at about 2" separation between bands.
> >
> > > *We have written references to farthingales stiffened with bent rope
and
> > > whalebone in 1560s and 1570s england. Again, no details about how they
> > > were sewn on. Also, references to "styffeninge" farthingales, by some
> > > unknown method. (starch? adding more bent?) and references to covering
> > > bent rope with fabric. All from Elizabeth's wardrobe accounts.
> >
> > Hrm, no written references to hempen cord, though.  Though the Italian
> > woman definitely *looks* like hers is using normal rope.
> >
> > > We don't even know much about exactly what was used for stiffening.
The
> > > name suggests willow osiers, the 1545 picture suggests rope or rag or
some
> > > non-stiff material, and Elizabeth's wardrobe accounts suggest
bent-rope.
> > > There's no indication that hoops were sewn on the inner side of the
> > > farthingale, or rope sewn on tucks on the inner side of the
farthingale.
> > > Though given the dearth of evidence, it's entirely possible this was
done
> > > as well.
> >
> > Hrm, perhaps I would consider doing my hemp on the outside (as seems
> > more accurate) if I dye it and the fabric to match.  I think brown hemp
> > on white or undyed brownish linen would look dorky, but if both were red
> > or something it would be pretty cool.
> >
> > K.
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
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Subject: Re: Another farthingale image was - Re: [h-cost]
	Making/finding bent rope
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In fact, the verse claims that it's a distinctively English style of
cap!


Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> mooncat@in-tch.com 07/11/03 11:54am >>>
Interesting that they say she's French, when the label says
"L'Angloyse." (English?)
Or is it just the image that's French? <g>
It certainly is an intriguely odd hat style, though....and I'm trying
to
figure out what that knotted piece of fabric is behind her (veil?)
Thanks for sharing!
--sue

Lisa Sinervo wrote:
> 
> Here's another image I recently ran across ........
> http://www.threadneedlest.com/Bulletinboard.htm  French 1567
according to
> Dress and Undress, Ahistory of Women's Underware.  Elizabeth Ewing
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> and I'm trying to figure out what that knotted piece of fabric is
behind her (veil?)
> Thanks for sharing!

> --sue

I'd say that the knotted fabric is two long straight hanging sleeves
which have been knotted together to keep them out of the way. 


Karen

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Does this mean if I use the same fabric (i.e., linen) I can use the 
"fitting" dress as a pattern from which to cut subsequent dresses?  It 
was my understanding that each dress would need to be fitted directly 
on my person.

Allison

>> It certainly helped fitting a couple of cottes, 1 for myself fitted by
>> Marcelle, and one that I fitted using what I learned from Marcelle.  
>> It
>> made it absurdly simple to keep the fitting on grain.  Just make sure
>> you get the woven type of gingham, not printed.
>
> I think it was fabric-store.com that used to have, and maybe still has,
> linen woven with a gingham-like pattern that would have made a good 
> grid.
>
> You'd want to do your fittings in linen if possible; it behaves
> differently from cotton. So it would be ideal to have a gridded linen
> rather than use cotton gingham.
>
> --Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT:Pirates of the Caribbean-oooh Johnny!
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Oh yeah.... I have been a stalker.... uh I mean fan... since 21 Jump Street.
;-)

Teena

----- Original Message -----
From: "Sarah" <sarah@elizabethanlady.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 6:56 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT:Pirates of the Caribbean-oooh Johnny!


>
> On Thursday, July 10, 2003, at 03:46  PM, Saragrace T. Knauf wrote:
>
> > I don't follow movies much, but since I saw Chocolate with Johnny Dep I
> > swore I would see him in everything he makes.  I saw the trailers for
> > POTC
> > and, well...drooled a little.  I think he is hot, hot, hot.  I'd jump
> > his
> > bones any day!  Sorry Bjarne, Sorry Jeff!  :}
>
> I hope I'm not the only one out here who fell in love with Johnny Depp
> during his stint on "21 Jump Street".  That show rocked for so many
> reasons, Depp was the main one.  ;)
>
> Sarah-not-Sarra
>
> _______________________________________________
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>

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: Another farthingale image was - Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent
 rope
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Cool pic!! OK, another book I have to hunt up...you wouldn't happen to
have the source for this picture available?

You know, I'm not sure that this on /is/ a farthingale, rather than a
welted kirtle skirt. Look at the way the bottom edge ripples, and how the
side-on view of the edge of the welts is completely flat.

Thanks for the picture,

Drea


On Thu, 10 Jul 2003, Lisa Sinervo wrote:

> Here's another image I recently ran across ........
> http://www.threadneedlest.com/Bulletinboard.htm  French 1567 according to
> Dress and Undress, Ahistory of Women's Underware.  Elizabeth Ewing
>
> Lisa
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Drea Leed" <drea@nospam>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 2:01 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope
>
>
> >
> > > Oooh, that makes me happy!  I'm about to start a corded petticoat, and
> > > was dreading sewing those channels.  Whipstitching, though, *that* I can
> > > do very happily!  Though I think I might sew it to the inside of the
> > > petticoat rather than the outside.
> >
> > True.  One thing, though--it can be demmed uncomfortable trying to sit in
> > a petticoat corded on the inside, depending on the size of the cording. :)
> >
> > I'm looking forward to seeing how the bands of contrasting color look on
> > the outside, once I'm done.
> >
> > Let me know how yours works...we can compare.
> >
> > I've been thinking about exactly what evidence we have, from period
> > sources, about how farthingales were stiffened.
> >
> > *We have the name: verdugado, or "sapling-guard", an indication that
> > they were made of wood (or willow withies, or osiers) and sewn as "guards"
> > onto skirts.
> >
> > *We have pictures of farthingales from late 15th c. spain, that clearly
> > have round hoops fastened to the outside of the skirt at various points
> > along the length of the skirt, covered with fabric.
> > (http://costume.dm.net/farthingale/images/salome.gif)
> >
> > *We have Alcega's pattern for the shape of the skirt, but unfortunately he
> > says nothing about how the willow bents are to be attached to this item.
> > (http://costume.dm.net/images/alcega.gif)
> >
> > *We have written references to farthingales stiffened with bent rope and
> > whalebone in 1560s and 1570s england. Again, no details about how they
> > were sewn on. Also, references to "styffeninge" farthingales, by some
> > unknown method. (starch? adding more bent?) and references to covering
> > bent rope with fabric. All from Elizabeth's wardrobe accounts.
> >
> > *We have a depiction of a "spanish apron", which bears a striking
> > resemblance to a farthingale sliced up the front with padding around the
> > hips. (http://www.elizabethanlady.com/images/farthingale/spanishapron.jpg)
> >
> > *We have a picture of a Spanish lady in Morocco wearing
> > a farthingale stiffened with a semi-stiff material, sewn into what looks
> > like tucked channels, dated from 1545.
> > (http://costume.dm.net/farthingale/images/rope-farth1545-sm.gif)
> >
> > *We have various pictures (such as the italian woman aforementioned, the
> > woodcut of Queen Elizabeth out hunting, and others) which could possibly
> > show farthingales worn under skirts...though this isn't certain.
> > (http://costume.dm.net/Tailors/pages/f103R.html), and
> > (http://costume.dm.net/gallery/images/lizpic1.gif)
> >
> > *We have a picture showing the back side of a french woman that reveals
> > the bottom edge of her farthingale underneath her skirt, revealing a hoop
> > along the bottom edge.
> >
> > And that's it, really. All other information that I've found has been
> > interpretations based on the above facts, including Arnold's recreation of
> > the alcega farthingale by sewing separate wood hoops into tucks, and
> > comments by the authors of all other major costume history works.
> >
> > There's really precious little out there. One picture supports the
> > idea that the stiffening material was sewn into tucks; two others
> > support the idea that they were sewn on as separate rings around the
> > skirt, and then covered with fabric.  One picture suggests that the
> > rope was applied as a spiral on the outside of the skirt. All 16th c. pics
> > of what we interpret to be farthingales show the stiffening applied in
> > rows much closer than the 5 or 6 rows that most recreated farthingales
> display.
> >
> > We don't even know much about exactly what was used for stiffening.  The
> > name suggests willow osiers, the 1545 picture suggests rope or rag or some
> > non-stiff material, and Elizabeth's wardrobe accounts suggest bent-rope.
> > There's no indication that hoops were sewn on the inner side of the
> > farthingale, or rope sewn on tucks on the inner side of the farthingale.
> > Though given the dearth of evidence, it's entirely possible this was done
> > as well.
> >
> > Just thinking out loud...
> >
> > Drea
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
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Do you have some references I could check to see the proper way to finish
seams? I am sadly ignorant of how to do many of the techniques mentioned in
this thread. I know how to french seam, but I usually just serge. I would
prefer to do something more appropriate.

Teena

----- Original Message -----
From: <kat@grendal.rain.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 9:16 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seams - to finish or not to finish


>
> >  I
> > talked to the entrant later about other construction techniques and
> > the entrant agreed the frenching (unneccessary for this fabric) caused
> > the problems with the gore.  Someone had told the entrant that it was
> > proper to french those seams and if she did not she would lose points.
>
> Did they show the person any documentation that frenching was period
> to begin with? I haven't found documentation for it until quite a bit
> past the usual "pre17thC" period. I've found felled seams, mock
> felled seams, overcast edges (which to me can take the place of
> "serging") and the like, but I've never found french seams.
>
> > *I* have also had people ask me "how did you finish that seam" - my
> > reply is usually, "I ironed it flat" and occasionally, "I ironed it
> > flat and fulled" The last time, the asker replied with a disappointed
> > "Oh.  Tsk.  Tsk.  Tsk."  I haven't had any problem with the unfinished
> > seams of linen shirts raveling...or wool dresses.
>
> I've found a lot of problems with linen ravelling like crazy. In
> fact, I know some people who won't make things with linen because
> they say that they hate the way it ravels and can't afford a serger.
>
> In terms of wool, it depends on how well fulled it is. Fulling it
> sufficiently *is* a form of seam finish.
>
> > Certainly, there are instances that you'd want to finish a seam - if
> > there's high stress, if you're using old or fine silk, etc...but WOOL
> > on a non-stressed seam?  And, if you must finish the seam, why not do
> > it in a more documentable way?  Is this a "serger mentality"?
>
> I don't think it's "serger mentality" since most of the people I hear
> about it the most from don't even use sergers.
>
> I think it is just misinformation. They hear that seams should be
> appropriately finished, remember the French Seams that someone taught
> them, and think that that's "appropriate". What they need is
> *appropriate" information about *appropriate* seam finishing
> techniques.
>
> If I had to finish the seams on a dress with gores, I think that I'd
> probably use a mock fell. More documentable to more time periods
> (from early Viking through 14th C through 16th C and on to "early
> modern" times.) And it's not so bulky! (It's especially helpful for
> keeping those awful little points at the top of gores from fraying
> out.
>
> Kat
> <kat@redtrollforge.com>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>

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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope
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>
> I don't do everything by hand, but quite a bit.  Basically I use my
> machine for long straight seams that don't show on the outside, and
> that's about it.  Partly it's because I don't like the noisy machine and
> having to go to the other room to use it, because if I sew by hand I can
> sit on the comfy couch, chat to friends, watch Buffy, etc. Partly it's an
> authenticity thing.  I do SCA, but I tend towards the more obsessive end
> of the accuracy scale :)

Me too.  I started out doing everything by machine, then started doing
visible stitching (hems, applique & such) by hand, and now I only do by
machine seams that will never see the light of day.

Ditto Buffy...though, I've found that Austen flicks are the best for
stitching, because you don't need to keep your eyes fixed on the movie to
follow the plot.

Drea

 >
> K.
>
>
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Jul 11 09:37:22 2003
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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope
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It is pretty hard to visualize...

1. draw a chalk spiral all around your skirt

2. lay a 2 inch wide strip of velvet face down, pinning it so the bottom
edge matches the chalk line you've drawn

3. stitch the velvet down, half an inch from the edge (and half an inch
from the chalk line)

4. Take the bent rope, lay it so that it rests over the seam allowance of
the velvet (between the stitching and the chalk line) and whip-stitch it
to the farthingale, all along the spiral.

5. pull the velvet over the bent rope, so it's right side out.  Tuck the
excess under, and whipstitch/hemstitch it down on the other side of the
bent rope, covering it.

If you're still puzzled, never fear--pictures of this will be going online
when I'm done with the project.

Drea

On Fri, 11 Jul 2003, Genie wrote:

> Hi,
>
> could you post some pic's of this?  My mind is not working to well this AM.
> Thanks,
>
> Genie
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Drea Leed" <drea@nospam>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 9:55 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope
>
>
> > You could try covering it with a strip of fabric.
> >
> > The way I'm doing mine is, I'm stitching a narrow strip of fabric in a
> > spiral up the skirt, from hem to top. then I'm hand-whip-stitching the
> > bent rope over the fabric seam allowance, then folding the fabric over the
> > rope and hand-stitching it down.
> >
> > Rope's coming along great, by the way!  15 yards made so far, 15 to go.
> > The more I handle it, the more I think this is the ultimate farthingale
> > boning material--made of period materials, stiffer along it's length than
> > hemp rope so it won't kink, much lighter than hemp rope (the 15 yards of
> > 5/8" diameter rope weighs in at less than a pound), and incredibly strong
> > yet very flexible.  I can almost bend it entirely back on itself, without
> > anything snapping.
> >
> > With stiffening like bent rope sewn on the outside, I'll bet the
> > farthingale material itself can be much lighter, since it doesn't have to
> > be sturdy enough to hold the boning material stiched
> > inside tucks. The fabric would act more as a shaped base to keep the
> > spiral of bent rope in place, rather than the rope working to "hold out"
> > the skirt to the proper location.
> >
> > Happy happy,
> >
> > Drea
> >
> >
> >  On Thu, 10 Jul 2003,
> > Kirrily Robert wrote:
> >
> > > Drea wrote:
> > > > True.  One thing, though--it can be demmed uncomfortable trying to sit
> in
> > > > a petticoat corded on the inside, depending on the size of the
> cording. :)
> > >
> > > My cord is 6mm hemp.  I was planning on only cording up to about knee
> > > height, at about 2" separation between bands.
> > >
> > > > *We have written references to farthingales stiffened with bent rope
> and
> > > > whalebone in 1560s and 1570s england. Again, no details about how they
> > > > were sewn on. Also, references to "styffeninge" farthingales, by some
> > > > unknown method. (starch? adding more bent?) and references to covering
> > > > bent rope with fabric. All from Elizabeth's wardrobe accounts.
> > >
> > > Hrm, no written references to hempen cord, though.  Though the Italian
> > > woman definitely *looks* like hers is using normal rope.
> > >
> > > > We don't even know much about exactly what was used for stiffening.
> The
> > > > name suggests willow osiers, the 1545 picture suggests rope or rag or
> some
> > > > non-stiff material, and Elizabeth's wardrobe accounts suggest
> bent-rope.
> > > > There's no indication that hoops were sewn on the inner side of the
> > > > farthingale, or rope sewn on tucks on the inner side of the
> farthingale.
> > > > Though given the dearth of evidence, it's entirely possible this was
> done
> > > > as well.
> > >
> > > Hrm, perhaps I would consider doing my hemp on the outside (as seems
> > > more accurate) if I dye it and the fabric to match.  I think brown hemp
> > > on white or undyed brownish linen would look dorky, but if both were red
> > > or something it would be pretty cool.
> > >
> > > K.
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > >
> >
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>
>
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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seams - to finish or not to finish
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The Museum of London's "Textiles and Clothing" book has some good
demonstrations of various medieval finishes used.

Drea


On Fri, 11 Jul 2003, Beteena Paradise wrote:

> Do you have some references I could check to see the proper way to finish
> seams? I am sadly ignorant of how to do many of the techniques mentioned in
> this thread. I know how to french seam, but I usually just serge. I would
> prefer to do something more appropriate.
>
> Teena
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <kat@grendal.rain.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 9:16 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seams - to finish or not to finish
>
>
> >
> > >  I
> > > talked to the entrant later about other construction techniques and
> > > the entrant agreed the frenching (unneccessary for this fabric) caused
> > > the problems with the gore.  Someone had told the entrant that it was
> > > proper to french those seams and if she did not she would lose points.
> >
> > Did they show the person any documentation that frenching was period
> > to begin with? I haven't found documentation for it until quite a bit
> > past the usual "pre17thC" period. I've found felled seams, mock
> > felled seams, overcast edges (which to me can take the place of
> > "serging") and the like, but I've never found french seams.
> >
> > > *I* have also had people ask me "how did you finish that seam" - my
> > > reply is usually, "I ironed it flat" and occasionally, "I ironed it
> > > flat and fulled" The last time, the asker replied with a disappointed
> > > "Oh.  Tsk.  Tsk.  Tsk."  I haven't had any problem with the unfinished
> > > seams of linen shirts raveling...or wool dresses.
> >
> > I've found a lot of problems with linen ravelling like crazy. In
> > fact, I know some people who won't make things with linen because
> > they say that they hate the way it ravels and can't afford a serger.
> >
> > In terms of wool, it depends on how well fulled it is. Fulling it
> > sufficiently *is* a form of seam finish.
> >
> > > Certainly, there are instances that you'd want to finish a seam - if
> > > there's high stress, if you're using old or fine silk, etc...but WOOL
> > > on a non-stressed seam?  And, if you must finish the seam, why not do
> > > it in a more documentable way?  Is this a "serger mentality"?
> >
> > I don't think it's "serger mentality" since most of the people I hear
> > about it the most from don't even use sergers.
> >
> > I think it is just misinformation. They hear that seams should be
> > appropriately finished, remember the French Seams that someone taught
> > them, and think that that's "appropriate". What they need is
> > *appropriate" information about *appropriate* seam finishing
> > techniques.
> >
> > If I had to finish the seams on a dress with gores, I think that I'd
> > probably use a mock fell. More documentable to more time periods
> > (from early Viking through 14th C through 16th C and on to "early
> > modern" times.) And it's not so bulky! (It's especially helpful for
> > keeping those awful little points at the top of gores from fraying
> > out.
> >
> > Kat
> > <kat@redtrollforge.com>
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Lisa Sinervo" <lisa-list@threadneedlest.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20030711091749.L45131-100000@shell.siscom.net>
Subject: Re: Another farthingale image was - Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent
	rope
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 06:57:23 -0700
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The picture comes from Dress and Undress, A History of Women's Underwear by
Elizabeth Ewing, Drama Book Specialists (Publishers) New York, 1978 - I'd
wouldn't spend money on this one, a library lend is all that it's worth.
But I don't recall seeing this image before.

Lisa
----- Original Message -----
From: "Drea Leed" <drea@nospam>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, July 11, 2003 6:23 AM
Subject: Re: Another farthingale image was - Re: [h-cost] Making/finding
bent rope


> Cool pic!! OK, another book I have to hunt up...you wouldn't happen to
> have the source for this picture available?
>
> You know, I'm not sure that this on /is/ a farthingale, rather than a
> welted kirtle skirt. Look at the way the bottom edge ripples, and how the
> side-on view of the edge of the welts is completely flat.
>
> Thanks for the picture,
>
> Drea
>
>
> On Thu, 10 Jul 2003, Lisa Sinervo wrote:
>
> > Here's another image I recently ran across ........
> > http://www.threadneedlest.com/Bulletinboard.htm  French 1567 according
to
> > Dress and Undress, Ahistory of Women's Underware.  Elizabeth Ewing
> >
> > Lisa
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Drea Leed" <drea@nospam>
> > To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 2:01 PM
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope
> >
> >
> > >
> > > > Oooh, that makes me happy!  I'm about to start a corded petticoat,
and
> > > > was dreading sewing those channels.  Whipstitching, though, *that* I
can
> > > > do very happily!  Though I think I might sew it to the inside of the
> > > > petticoat rather than the outside.
> > >
> > > True.  One thing, though--it can be demmed uncomfortable trying to sit
in
> > > a petticoat corded on the inside, depending on the size of the
cording. :)
> > >
> > > I'm looking forward to seeing how the bands of contrasting color look
on
> > > the outside, once I'm done.
> > >
> > > Let me know how yours works...we can compare.
> > >
> > > I've been thinking about exactly what evidence we have, from period
> > > sources, about how farthingales were stiffened.
> > >
> > > *We have the name: verdugado, or "sapling-guard", an indication that
> > > they were made of wood (or willow withies, or osiers) and sewn as
"guards"
> > > onto skirts.
> > >
> > > *We have pictures of farthingales from late 15th c. spain, that
clearly
> > > have round hoops fastened to the outside of the skirt at various
points
> > > along the length of the skirt, covered with fabric.
> > > (http://costume.dm.net/farthingale/images/salome.gif)
> > >
> > > *We have Alcega's pattern for the shape of the skirt, but
unfortunately he
> > > says nothing about how the willow bents are to be attached to this
item.
> > > (http://costume.dm.net/images/alcega.gif)
> > >
> > > *We have written references to farthingales stiffened with bent rope
and
> > > whalebone in 1560s and 1570s england. Again, no details about how they
> > > were sewn on. Also, references to "styffeninge" farthingales, by some
> > > unknown method. (starch? adding more bent?) and references to covering
> > > bent rope with fabric. All from Elizabeth's wardrobe accounts.
> > >
> > > *We have a depiction of a "spanish apron", which bears a striking
> > > resemblance to a farthingale sliced up the front with padding around
the
> > > hips.
(http://www.elizabethanlady.com/images/farthingale/spanishapron.jpg)
> > >
> > > *We have a picture of a Spanish lady in Morocco wearing
> > > a farthingale stiffened with a semi-stiff material, sewn into what
looks
> > > like tucked channels, dated from 1545.
> > > (http://costume.dm.net/farthingale/images/rope-farth1545-sm.gif)
> > >
> > > *We have various pictures (such as the italian woman aforementioned,
the
> > > woodcut of Queen Elizabeth out hunting, and others) which could
possibly
> > > show farthingales worn under skirts...though this isn't certain.
> > > (http://costume.dm.net/Tailors/pages/f103R.html), and
> > > (http://costume.dm.net/gallery/images/lizpic1.gif)
> > >
> > > *We have a picture showing the back side of a french woman that
reveals
> > > the bottom edge of her farthingale underneath her skirt, revealing a
hoop
> > > along the bottom edge.
> > >
> > > And that's it, really. All other information that I've found has been
> > > interpretations based on the above facts, including Arnold's
recreation of
> > > the alcega farthingale by sewing separate wood hoops into tucks, and
> > > comments by the authors of all other major costume history works.
> > >
> > > There's really precious little out there. One picture supports the
> > > idea that the stiffening material was sewn into tucks; two others
> > > support the idea that they were sewn on as separate rings around the
> > > skirt, and then covered with fabric.  One picture suggests that the
> > > rope was applied as a spiral on the outside of the skirt. All 16th c.
pics
> > > of what we interpret to be farthingales show the stiffening applied in
> > > rows much closer than the 5 or 6 rows that most recreated farthingales
> > display.
> > >
> > > We don't even know much about exactly what was used for stiffening.
The
> > > name suggests willow osiers, the 1545 picture suggests rope or rag or
some
> > > non-stiff material, and Elizabeth's wardrobe accounts suggest
bent-rope.
> > > There's no indication that hoops were sewn on the inner side of the
> > > farthingale, or rope sewn on tucks on the inner side of the
farthingale.
> > > Though given the dearth of evidence, it's entirely possible this was
done
> > > as well.
> > >
> > > Just thinking out loud...
> > >
> > > Drea
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fitting a GFD/cotte
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On Fri, 11 Jul 2003, Allison Pace wrote:

> Does this mean if I use the same fabric (i.e., linen) I can use the
> "fitting" dress as a pattern from which to cut subsequent dresses?  
> It was my understanding that each dress would need to be fitted
> directly on my person.

Yes, it does, but there's a shortcut.

Don't know how others prefer it, but here's one thing I do: I do an
initial fitting of just the torso (down just past the point of flare) in
linen, preferably the same linen I'd use for a lining. I mark the seams,
gore insertion points and angles, depth of eyelet holes, etc. and make
other notes very clearly, and save it as a mockup. I use this as a
"pattern" for cutting the real lining and also for the outer fabric.
Assuming the real lining is the same fabric as the mockup, the full
version should be essentially identical; it might need a tweak here and
there after you assemble it and check it on the body. I fit the full
lining first, then attach the outer fabric and do any last adjustments on
that. The outer fabric doesn't usually require much adjustment, as the
lining does most of the work, and the outer fabric mostly sits on top of
it; also, I usually use wool for the outer fabric, which is a bit more
flexible and forgiving and tends to mold over the shape that the lining
has established. If you have a silk on the outside, it gets dicier --
leave large seam allowances on your first run ;-)

Then you can save the lining half-length mockup as a shortcut for future
dresses. It cuts out a few steps of the process. However, each dress does
still need a final fitting adjustment -- first for the lining, and then
for the whole dress together -- because each piece of fabric has slight
differences in "give." And your body may change too; it's a good idea to
fit the (real) lining before you cut the main fabric each time, so that if
you have major changes to make, you do them in the lining.

For someone who is only going to want one dress, I go ahead and just fit
the lining, and don't bother with making a mockup to save.

--Robin

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Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 06:50:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tasha McGann <demontsegur@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] re: fitting a GFD/cotte
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Allison wrote:
Does this mean if I use the same fabric (i.e., linen)
I can use the 
"fitting" dress as a pattern from which to cut
subsequent dresses?  It 
was my understanding that each dress would need to be
fitted directly 
on my person.

I respond:
Robin can explain this in more detail, but the 'short'
answer is that you can do a number of different
things: fit with the fashion fabric (if making a cotte
simple, for instance [an unlined cotte]), fit with the
lining fabric and then use that to cut your fashion
fabric, or you can do either of those and then copy
your pattern to muslin as a starting point the next
time you want to make one of these gowns (now my
personal preference). 

You can also fit with fabric you don't intend to use
for a gown. The purpose of this last option is to
simply have a pattern by which you will start and then
tweak your lining and/or fashion fabrics as the actual
gown comes together. If you use a plain weave cotton,
for instance, there will be subtle differences between
the way it holds you in and the way linen would, if
you fit using linen. It should be understood that a
fitting done with fabric other than that which will go
into your gown is not 100% an exact fit, but it's
close enough to get you 95% there when you cut out
your actual dress pieces. The rest will have to be
fiddled with as you work on the dress itself. 

-Tasha




=====
http://www.cottesimple.com
An exploration of European clothing and accessories from the late 14th/early 15th centuries.

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Jul 11 10:00:21 2003
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From: "chiara" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT:Pirates of the Caribbean
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 08:58:15 -0500
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There are two on ebay, one is the ripped one the other is not, it is a clean
nice one. I suspect the ripped one must have been the stunt double. ;)

Sincerely,
Chiara
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, July 11, 2003 3:04 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT:Pirates of the Caribbean


:
: >The costumes are already on ebay, the corsets are not too shabby. :)
:
: ...except that it ripped right off Elizabeth when they tugged on it.
:
:
:         CarolynKayta Barrows
: dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
:           www.FunStuft.com
:
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Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 09:25:56 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: fitting a GFD/cotte
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On Fri, 11 Jul 2003, Tasha McGann wrote:

> You can also fit with fabric you don't intend to use for a gown. The
> purpose of this last option is to simply have a pattern by which you
> will start and then tweak your lining and/or fashion fabrics as the
> actual gown comes together. If you use a plain weave cotton, for
> instance, there will be subtle differences between the way it holds
> you in and the way linen would, if you fit using linen. It should be
> understood that a fitting done with fabric other than that which will
> go into your gown is not 100% an exact fit, but it's close enough to
> get you 95% there when you cut out your actual dress pieces. The rest
> will have to be fiddled with as you work on the dress itself.

I'd go far enough to say that I wouldn't recommend cotton for any step
anymore. So many of my "usual" fitting problems disappeared completely
when I eliminated cotton. There are just some things cotton doesn't do
very well. For instance, part of my technique involves distorting the
warp/weft angle in certain parts (e.g. around the armhole, shoulders, and
neckline), and cotton resists that. The same property that makes linen
crawl while you try to cut it on the table makes it very flexible on the
body; I hate doing major flat cutting of linen, but I love working with it
on the body. So it's well suited to this method. (Medieval people had
cotton at this place and time, but they apparently weren't using it much
for clothing. I can see why.)

I bought a ton of linen cheap on clearance at Jo-Ann's once -- some people
here will remember the infamous fuchsia linen discussion, as a bunch of us
on the list found the same stuff at our local stores, all at the same
time. That's now my fitting stash.
 
--Robin

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From: Teena Kessinger  <bkessinger@ureach.com>
Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] Seams - to finish or not to finish
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Oooh! That book is on my wishlist for my birthday. Thanks!





---- On Fri, 11 Jul 2003, Drea Leed (drea@nospam) wrote:

> The Museum of London's "Textiles and Clothing" book has some
good
> demonstrations of various medieval finishes used.
> 
> Drea
> 
> 
> On Fri, 11 Jul 2003, Beteena Paradise wrote:
> 
> > Do you have some references I could check to see the proper
way to finish
> > seams? I am sadly ignorant of how to do many of the
techniques mentioned in
> > this thread. I know how to french seam, but I usually just
serge. I would
> > prefer to do something more appropriate.
> >
> > Teena
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <kat@grendal.rain.com>
> > To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 9:16 PM
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seams - to finish or not to finish
> >
> >
> > >
> > > >  I
> > > > talked to the entrant later about other construction
techniques and
> > > > the entrant agreed the frenching (unneccessary for this
fabric) caused
> > > > the problems with the gore.  Someone had told the
entrant that it was
> > > > proper to french those seams and if she did not she
would lose points.
> > >
> > > Did they show the person any documentation that frenching
was period
> > > to begin with? I haven't found documentation for it until
quite a bit
> > > past the usual "pre17thC" period. I've found felled seams,
mock
> > > felled seams, overcast edges (which to me can take the
place of
> > > "serging") and the like, but I've never found french
seams.
> > >
> > > > *I* have also had people ask me "how did you finish that
seam" - my
> > > > reply is usually, "I ironed it flat" and occasionally,
"I ironed it
> > > > flat and fulled" The last time, the asker replied with a
disappointed
> > > > "Oh.  Tsk.  Tsk.  Tsk."  I haven't had any problem with
the unfinished
> > > > seams of linen shirts raveling...or wool dresses.
> > >
> > > I've found a lot of problems with linen ravelling like
crazy. In
> > > fact, I know some people who won't make things with linen
because
> > > they say that they hate the way it ravels and can't afford
a serger.
> > >
> > > In terms of wool, it depends on how well fulled it is.
Fulling it
> > > sufficiently *is* a form of seam finish.
> > >
> > > > Certainly, there are instances that you'd want to finish
a seam - if
> > > > there's high stress, if you're using old or fine silk,
etc...but WOOL
> > > > on a non-stressed seam?  And, if you must finish the
seam, why not do
> > > > it in a more documentable way?  Is this a "serger
mentality"?
> > >
> > > I don't think it's "serger mentality" since most of the
people I hear
> > > about it the most from don't even use sergers.
> > >
> > > I think it is just misinformation. They hear that seams
should be
> > > appropriately finished, remember the French Seams that
someone taught
> > > them, and think that that's "appropriate". What they need
is
> > > *appropriate" information about *appropriate* seam
finishing
> > > techniques.
> > >
> > > If I had to finish the seams on a dress with gores, I
think that I'd
> > > probably use a mock fell. More documentable to more time
periods
> > > (from early Viking through 14th C through 16th C and on to
"early
> > > modern" times.) And it's not so bulky! (It's especially
helpful for
> > > keeping those awful little points at the top of gores from
fraying
> > > out.
> > >
> > > Kat
> > > <kat@redtrollforge.com>
> > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > >
> > >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> 

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From: "Lisa Sinervo" <lisa-list@threadneedlest.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20030711091749.L45131-100000@shell.siscom.net>
Subject: Re: Another farthingale image was - Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent
	rope
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 07:33:09 -0700
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Sorry, no source for the illustration is listed in the book.  Just "French
farthingale, c.1580 - the author lists other sources for images, but nothing
for this one.

Lisa

----- Original Message -----
From: "Drea Leed" <drea@nospam>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, July 11, 2003 6:23 AM
Subject: Re: Another farthingale image was - Re: [h-cost] Making/finding
bent rope


> Cool pic!! OK, another book I have to hunt up...you wouldn't happen to
> have the source for this picture available?
>
> You know, I'm not sure that this on /is/ a farthingale, rather than a
> welted kirtle skirt. Look at the way the bottom edge ripples, and how the
> side-on view of the edge of the welts is completely flat.
>
> Thanks for the picture,
>
> Drea
>
>
> On Thu, 10 Jul 2003, Lisa Sinervo wrote:
>
> > Here's another image I recently ran across ........
> > http://www.threadneedlest.com/Bulletinboard.htm  French 1567 according
to
> > Dress and Undress, Ahistory of Women's Underware.  Elizabeth Ewing
> >
> > Lisa
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Drea Leed" <drea@nospam>
> > To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 2:01 PM
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope
> >
> >
> > >
> > > > Oooh, that makes me happy!  I'm about to start a corded petticoat,
and
> > > > was dreading sewing those channels.  Whipstitching, though, *that* I
can
> > > > do very happily!  Though I think I might sew it to the inside of the
> > > > petticoat rather than the outside.
> > >
> > > True.  One thing, though--it can be demmed uncomfortable trying to sit
in
> > > a petticoat corded on the inside, depending on the size of the
cording. :)
> > >
> > > I'm looking forward to seeing how the bands of contrasting color look
on
> > > the outside, once I'm done.
> > >
> > > Let me know how yours works...we can compare.
> > >
> > > I've been thinking about exactly what evidence we have, from period
> > > sources, about how farthingales were stiffened.
> > >
> > > *We have the name: verdugado, or "sapling-guard", an indication that
> > > they were made of wood (or willow withies, or osiers) and sewn as
"guards"
> > > onto skirts.
> > >
> > > *We have pictures of farthingales from late 15th c. spain, that
clearly
> > > have round hoops fastened to the outside of the skirt at various
points
> > > along the length of the skirt, covered with fabric.
> > > (http://costume.dm.net/farthingale/images/salome.gif)
> > >
> > > *We have Alcega's pattern for the shape of the skirt, but
unfortunately he
> > > says nothing about how the willow bents are to be attached to this
item.
> > > (http://costume.dm.net/images/alcega.gif)
> > >
> > > *We have written references to farthingales stiffened with bent rope
and
> > > whalebone in 1560s and 1570s england. Again, no details about how they
> > > were sewn on. Also, references to "styffeninge" farthingales, by some
> > > unknown method. (starch? adding more bent?) and references to covering
> > > bent rope with fabric. All from Elizabeth's wardrobe accounts.
> > >
> > > *We have a depiction of a "spanish apron", which bears a striking
> > > resemblance to a farthingale sliced up the front with padding around
the
> > > hips.
(http://www.elizabethanlady.com/images/farthingale/spanishapron.jpg)
> > >
> > > *We have a picture of a Spanish lady in Morocco wearing
> > > a farthingale stiffened with a semi-stiff material, sewn into what
looks
> > > like tucked channels, dated from 1545.
> > > (http://costume.dm.net/farthingale/images/rope-farth1545-sm.gif)
> > >
> > > *We have various pictures (such as the italian woman aforementioned,
the
> > > woodcut of Queen Elizabeth out hunting, and others) which could
possibly
> > > show farthingales worn under skirts...though this isn't certain.
> > > (http://costume.dm.net/Tailors/pages/f103R.html), and
> > > (http://costume.dm.net/gallery/images/lizpic1.gif)
> > >
> > > *We have a picture showing the back side of a french woman that
reveals
> > > the bottom edge of her farthingale underneath her skirt, revealing a
hoop
> > > along the bottom edge.
> > >
> > > And that's it, really. All other information that I've found has been
> > > interpretations based on the above facts, including Arnold's
recreation of
> > > the alcega farthingale by sewing separate wood hoops into tucks, and
> > > comments by the authors of all other major costume history works.
> > >
> > > There's really precious little out there. One picture supports the
> > > idea that the stiffening material was sewn into tucks; two others
> > > support the idea that they were sewn on as separate rings around the
> > > skirt, and then covered with fabric.  One picture suggests that the
> > > rope was applied as a spiral on the outside of the skirt. All 16th c.
pics
> > > of what we interpret to be farthingales show the stiffening applied in
> > > rows much closer than the 5 or 6 rows that most recreated farthingales
> > display.
> > >
> > > We don't even know much about exactly what was used for stiffening.
The
> > > name suggests willow osiers, the 1545 picture suggests rope or rag or
some
> > > non-stiff material, and Elizabeth's wardrobe accounts suggest
bent-rope.
> > > There's no indication that hoops were sewn on the inner side of the
> > > farthingale, or rope sewn on tucks on the inner side of the
farthingale.
> > > Though given the dearth of evidence, it's entirely possible this was
done
> > > as well.
> > >
> > > Just thinking out loud...
> > >
> > > Drea
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seams - to finish or not to finish
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In a message dated 7/11/2003 9:04:53 AM Central Standard Time, 
bkessinger@ureach.com writes:

> Oooh! That book is on my wishlist for my birthday. Thanks!
> 

Does anybody find that they have no willpower for books on wishlists? I just 
find that anything I try to put on my "I'll get it on my <insert gift getting 
day>!" ends up being gotten about 5 seconds later due to the whole Book 
Instant Gratification Need? Or am I just a big spoiled baby?

-Sarra Wryght
Elizabethan Dress Journals: http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/index.html
Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seams - to finish or not to finish
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>
> Does anybody find that they have no willpower for books on wishlists? I just
> find that anything I try to put on my "I'll get it on my <insert gift getting
> day>!" ends up being gotten about 5 seconds later due to the whole Book
> Instant Gratification Need? Or am I just a big spoiled baby?

No, sister, you're a member of the Ancient and Sacred Order of
Bibliophiles. :)  There is nothing as exhilarating as recieving a rare
costume book in the mail and then spending a good 15 minutes leaping
about the living room with it clutched to your chest, crowing "Mine!
It's all Mine!"

Drea


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Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 14:57:24 +0000
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Subject: [h-cost] sharp object on airplanes
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  We always travel with the Fiskars  rounded end kids' scissors.  They've 
been scrutinized but never confiscated.

   Shocking lapse on the part of airline personnel - last summer I walked 
through the x-ray machine (having emptied my pockets) wearing a large straw 
hat that was pinned to my head.  With hat pins.  4 inches long, with a 
decorative item on one end but really sharp at the other end.  Machine 
didn't beep. Screening folks said nothing.  Flight attendants said nothing.  
Hat stayed on when I walked out into the wind at the other end of the trip, 
but those pins have to be more dangerous than the little sewing sharps 
(which I carry on in my wooden needle case, with no problem).

Laura Dickerson

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Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 07:58:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Angharad ver' Reynulf" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT:Pirates of the Caribbean
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--- michael tartaglio <mikes@dandy.net> wrote:
> Hi. Of course, as if to contradict all of the
> evidence presented by the 
> many women on this list, as well as others, one of
> the ads for the movie 
> presented the female lead stating "Oh, you like
> pain, do you? Try 
> wearing a corset."   Is there a little character for
> a sneer on my 
> keyboard?  Mike T.


mike, i can top the sneer....about 7 of us, plus my
son went to see this on wednesday-half of us dressed
up and amused the other people at the theater by
answering questions on 'pirates' and clothing and when
that scene came up, the three women who wear them said
the line, followed by "NOT!"  had fun telling the
children that no, corsets don't hurt unless they fit
wrong. :-P

Angharat,
planning on doing the same to League of Extraordinary
Gentlemen tonight :-)



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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Seams - to finish or not to finish
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<<No, sister, you're a member of the Ancient and Sacred Order of
Bibliophiles. :)  There is nothing as exhilarating as recieving a rare
costume book in the mail and then spending a good 15 minutes leaping
about the living room with it clutched to your chest, crowing "Mine!
It's all Mine!">>

Drea, it's a darn good thing I just swallowed my drink when I read this!  LOL! 
The image is right on and I have been there, too.  <grin>

Colleen


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To: h-costume@indra.com (Historical Costume)
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>"Mine! It's all Mine!">>

Heh. :)  It must be the Scots-Irish in me, but my triumphal dance only comes out when I get that book on ILL, or long-term loan from U of Chi.

Constance "Honey, I've got a 50% off coupon, let's buy a bolt of linen" Fairfax
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope plus period corsets
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Drea, thanks so much for sharing all of this with us as you go along.  I 
can see a bent-rope farthingale in my future.  (I've been wanting to 
make a new one but was a bit lost as to how to make it more period 
without using something that was either really heavy or too brittle.)

What is the diameter of the finished rope?  How much reed do you need to 
make enough for the whole farthingale?  What is artificial sinew and 
where do I get some?  (Or would you use something else if you did it 
again?)  How much sinew will I need?

Speaking of more-period underpinnings, I've also been toying with the 
idea of a new corset.  Though mine works perfectly well, it's boned with 
steel.  I've thought about bents, but the end product isn't washable, is 
it?  The hemp cord version seems a little curvy for 1575 Elizabethan 
(and no one has come up with any solid evidence for it, as far as I 
know).  Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Melanie Schuessler
http://www.faucet.net/costume

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> Speaking of more-period underpinnings, I've also been toying with the
> idea of a new corset.  Though mine works perfectly well, it's boned with
> steel.  I've thought about bents, but the end product isn't washable, is
> it?  The hemp cord version seems a little curvy for 1575 Elizabethan
> (and no one has come up with any solid evidence for it, as far as I
> know).  Any thoughts?

I've used broom straw from a craft broom for a corset and it is quite
comfortable and stiff, lots to hold in so it is strong, and when I think it
needs more than an airing, I put it on a plastic hanger and give it a
shower, then let hang dry in the bathroom.  It's done fine.

Cyn


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From: "Talia" <khanson@kc.rr.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope plus period corsets
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 10:35:12 -0500
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Haven't read all the messages in this thread, but I just had an idea for
those of you that do corsets...has anyone tried ABS or Kydex plastic as
boning in their corset? It's the heat-moldable plastic that some fighters
use in their armor. I've got formed Kydex vambraces (forearms) in my armor.
Had them for eight years and they're still going strong without deformation.

I would think that boning cut and heat-bent to the proper shape would work
wonderfully for corsets, plus it would be incredibly washable. It is after
all plastic. The nice thing is that it can be cut with a $6 cutting tool,
and heated in your kitchen oven to be bent. Depending on how much stiffness
you want, you could use thicker or thinner plastic. My armor pieces are 3/8"
to 1/4" thick and they don't bend at all, even under a heavy blow.

Talia


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From: Elizabeth Young <lizyoung@fenris.net>
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Has anyone seen a hat like this other than in Vecellio?
http://www.costumes.org/history/broderbund/boo/BOO50281.gif


liz young


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From: Dawn Jacobson <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] US Airline restrictions - sewing stuff (?)
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At 10:25 AM 7/10/2003 -0700, Kayta wrote:

>>I'm making a coast-to-coast run this weekend with fairly long layovers & 
>>I'd like to get some hemming/handwork finished.  Since 9/11, I know some 
>>of my coworkers have had their manicure set scissors taken away.
>>
>>I want to be completely on the up-and-up, but I also don't want to be 
>>bored out of my skull.  Have any of you traveled in the US lately with 
>>sewing implements?  Are needles (little sharps) ok?  How about snips?  I 
>>assume ghingers are still out. I can imagine trying to get through with a 
>>set of pinking shears. :)
>
>I saw an ad, in a recent needlework catalog, for those Clover round 
>medallions that are really thread cutters, and the ad said it was OK for 
>airline travel.

They are. I have 3 (people give them to me as gifts), and always take one 
along with me and my needlework when I fly. The only question I've ever 
gotten was from a security guard who wanted to know where she could get one 
(answer: any fabric store, including JoAnn's and Hancock's). I don't wear 
it unless I'm working on my needlework; instead, it lives in my smallest 
needlework box and goes in my purse and through the baggage scanner when I 
go through the security checkpoint. I've also taken entire assembled 
embroidery frames with several needles stuck through them as carry-on (the 
most recent one is 12X18") and not had any problems. As I don't knit, I 
can't comment on knitting needles, but I know that crochet hooks are also 
not a problem, having traveled with them several times recently.

Dawn

Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are the costumes we wear every day. 
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Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 09:16:40 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Lynn Downward <LDownward@chori.org>
Subject: Re: Another farthingale image was - Re: [h-cost] Making/finding
 bent rope
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Very cool; I wish my French wasn't so rusty.

Are those her hanging sleeves tied behind her?

LynnD

>Here's another image I recently ran across ........
>http://www.threadneedlest.com/Bulletinboard.htm  French 1567 according to
>Dress and Undress, Ahistory of Women's Underware.  Elizabeth Ewing
>
>Lisa
>

-- 
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Upcoming lectures
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Since people have asked me to keep them posted, here's the status of my
lecture schedule for the rest of 2003.

Seattle, August 9. Full-day lecture series. Just a few seats left; for
information, see http://www.runway.net/a/netherton/ or send questions to
Colleen McDonald at colleen.mcdonald@comcast.net .

Denver, October 18. SCA event, Known World Costume Symposium. On Saturday
I'll be doing a 2-hour set on the Gothic Fitted Dress and the Greenland
Gored Gown, as well as a lecture on the influence of the Victorians on our
understanding of medieval costume. On Sunday I'll be doing some sort of
informal GFD fitting demonstration open to observers (note: NOT a formal
workshop/class); we're still ironing out the details. For information on
the event, see http://www.caerthe.org/kwcs/ .

Boston, Nov. 8. Full-day lecture series. About a dozen seats left; for
information, contact Laura Dickerson at lauradi7@hotmail.com .

--Robin
http://www.netherton.net/robin

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From: "Beteena Paradise" <bkessinger@ureach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seams - to finish or not to finish
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I am trying to get better about that. Between my costuming books and my
husband's heraldry books, we have been spending hundreds a month on
books.... not to mention the problem of having places to put them!

I did get rewarded for my patience however. Last weekend we celebrated my
birthday early because we were visiting family. I received Janet Arnold's
1560-1620 and Medieval Tailor's Assistant as well as gift cards for Michaels
and Joanns.... they know me well. :)

Teena

----- Original Message -----
From: <LoreleiMorte@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, July 11, 2003 10:23 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seams - to finish or not to finish


> In a message dated 7/11/2003 9:04:53 AM Central Standard Time,
> bkessinger@ureach.com writes:
>
> > Oooh! That book is on my wishlist for my birthday. Thanks!
> >
>
> Does anybody find that they have no willpower for books on wishlists? I
just
> find that anything I try to put on my "I'll get it on my <insert gift
getting
> day>!" ends up being gotten about 5 seconds later due to the whole Book
> Instant Gratification Need? Or am I just a big spoiled baby?
>
> -Sarra Wryght
> Elizabethan Dress Journals:
http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/index.html
> Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>

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From: kat@grendal.rain.com
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 09:33:59 -0700
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: fitting a GFD/cotte
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> I bought a ton of linen cheap on clearance at Jo-Ann's once -- some
> people here will remember the infamous fuchsia linen discussion, as a
> bunch of us on the list found the same stuff at our local stores, all
> at the same time. That's now my fitting stash.

Oh, I remember that find clearly. I think I'm finally nearly out of 
the fuchsia linen. Only one length of it left.

And linen isn't the only fabric to crawl like that. I've been working 
with an interesting piece of 100% silk that does it too. It's a plain 
weave with perhaps a bit of a taffeta accentuation to it (although 
it's not a true taffeta). I've had to do all sorts of things just to 
cut it out on grain and instead of being able to sew the decorations 
on it (as it's a Byzantine), I'm having to do them *all* by hand. It 
has really slowed things down. I've even had to pull out some of the 
handsewing where the fabric was not lying quite on grain when I laid 
the decorative patches on it for positioning. I think it would have 
made a great GFD!

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 09:33:59 -0700
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> Hmmm is that a 'low' neckline or a doublet she's wearing for her
> bodice?

Looks like a doublet to me, along the line of one of the Mary Queen 
of Scots portraits which has a line high across the top of the chest 
as decoration with slashing below it.
> 
> Cass :)
> 
> > Here's another image I recently ran across ........
> > http://www.threadneedlest.com/Bulletinboard.htm  French 1567
> > according to Dress and Undress, Ahistory of Women's Underware. 
> > Elizabeth Ewing

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 09:33:59 -0700
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> No, sister, you're a member of the Ancient and Sacred Order of
> Bibliophiles. :)  There is nothing as exhilarating as recieving a rare
> costume book in the mail and then spending a good 15 minutes leaping
> about the living room with it clutched to your chest, crowing "Mine!
> It's all Mine!"

Usually closely followed at my house by "Here! Take a look at this!" 
as the book gets passed around to everyone else who hasn't had the 
good sense to run from the room as the fervor hits. (It's best to do 
this in a group of stitchers, not when the squires or blacksmithing 
crew has just come in.)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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> Do you have some references I could check to see the proper way to
> finish seams? I am sadly ignorant of how to do many of the techniques
> mentioned in this thread. I know how to french seam, but I usually
> just serge. I would prefer to do something more appropriate.

The best reference depends on your time period.

For early periods the best books are in archeology. _Textiles in 
Archeology_ by John Peter Wild is a good place to start. Margrethe 
Hald's _Ancient Textiles from Bogs and Burials_ is also good. I don't 
know if you can get it but "An 11th C shirt from Viborg Sonderso, 
Denmark" by Mytte Fentz in _Archaeological Textile in Northern Europe-
Report from the 4th NESAT Symposium_ (Ed. by Lise Bender Jorgensen 
and Elizabeth Muncksgaard) (pages 83-92) is another good one.

For more middle periods, the MOL book _Clothing and Textiles c1150-
1450_ by Elizabeth Crowfoot (the book mentioned by Constance 
Fairfax), Frances Pritchard and kay Staniland is good.

For 16th C, Janet Arnold's _Patterns of Fashion: 1560-1620_.

For 17th and 18th C, _Historical Fashion in Detail_ by Avril Hart and 
Susan North is ok (although it primarily looks at the outside, but 
you can still get some ideas of how things were stitched) and _Rural 
Pennsylvania Clothing_ by Ellen J. Gehret (if you can find a copy of 
it) are sources.

After that, there are slews of books on stitching from those time 
periods in books for "Ladies". You can even find Dover reprints of 
them often times. 

And of course there are the various incarnations of Therese 
deDillmont's work (which J&P Coats and DMC, etc seem to have used 
liberally with/without the deDillmont attribution.)

The best modern book on the subject is Claire B. Shaeffer's _Couture 
Sewing Techniques_.

Hope this gives you an idea of where to start at least. They don't 
always have "how to's" but rather show the techniques (sometimes as 
they are actually showing some other detail.) It really pays to look 
at the photographs as well as their interpretations, since they may 
show a technique in a photograph where they are interpreting other 
aspects of the photograph.

If you find stuff like this for before 1600 that I haven't mentioned, 
please let me know as I'm always in search of more material 
(especially if it is textile archeology based.)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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In a message dated 7/11/03 12:37:39 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
kat@grendal.rain.com writes:

> Usually closely followed at my house by "Here! Take a look at this!" 
> as the book gets passed around to everyone else who hasn't had the 
> good sense to run from the room as the fervor hits. (It's best to do 
> this in a group of stitchers, not when the squires or blacksmithing 
> crew has just come in.)

Which is followed closely at my house by "Christine!  For god's sakes stop 
shaking that book at me!" from either mom or dad.  Which is then followed by an 
indulgent smile from them as I run upstairs hugging the book.  Literally.  
(and yes, the "It's mine, it's mine!" applies here)

Christine
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Subject: [h-cost] film costumes
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  How do you search to find film costumes on ebay?

feeling ignorant,
Laura Dickerson

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Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 12:58:25 -0400 (EDT)
From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope plus period corsets
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>
> What is the diameter of the finished rope?  How much reed do you need to
> make enough for the whole farthingale?  What is artificial sinew and
> where do I get some?  (Or would you use something else if you did it
> again?)  How much sinew will I need?

The finished rope, which includes 20 pieces of 1.5mm bent (#0 round reed),
is between 1/2 and 5/8 inches in diameter.

I bought the reed in 1 lb bundles from a basketry supply place; each
bundle contains about 2000 feet of reed. I'm about 3/4 of the way through
the first bundle, and have 15 yds of bent rope completed. I'm estimating
that one bundle will do about 20 yards.

Artificial sinew can be found at hobby shops & (I think) jewelry supply
catalogs...I got mine from hubby's archery supply catalog.  It comes in a
big bundle.  I don't have any documentation for using sinew
specifically...but it works really well, as the wax coating makes it
slightly sticky and helps it not shift when wrapped. The 15 yards I've
wrapped so far has used up about 1/2 a spool.

 >
> Speaking of more-period underpinnings, I've also been toying with the
> idea of a new corset.  Though mine works perfectly well, it's boned with
> steel.  I've thought about bents, but the end product isn't washable, is
> it?  The hemp cord version seems a little curvy for 1575 Elizabethan
> (and no one has come up with any solid evidence for it, as far as I
> know).  Any thoughts?

Go for the reed, baby! :)  It's not washable...but once you experience the
comfort of a reed-boned corset, you'll never go back.

I've had a reed corset that I've worn for more than a year.  Laying it out
in the sun for an afternoon is usually enough to get any odor out of it.
Because all of the materials are so breathable, scent doesn't linger.

 If washability's important, I'd recomment narrow artificial whalebone,
instead.  Much heavier and less breathable, but still more comfy than
steel.

Drea
 >
> Thanks,
> Melanie Schuessler
> http://www.faucet.net/costume
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seams - to finish or not to finish
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In a message dated 7/11/2003 9:35:14 AM Central Standard Time, 
drea@nospam writes:

> No, sister, you're a member of the Ancient and Sacred Order of
> Bibliophiles. :)  There is nothing as exhilarating as recieving a rare
> costume book in the mail and then spending a good 15 minutes leaping
> about the living room with it clutched to your chest, crowing "Mine!
> It's all Mine!"
> 

It's freakin' Xmas when ya see that beautiful, glorious, big brown truck 
comin' down the street.....or the white one with the Holy Words "Fed Ex".... or 
you see your beloved mail guy, with the hint of manilla peeking forth from his 
bag, or with, better yet, the Sign-o-Thingy..... 

I love the brown truck, with it's glossy chocolate exterior...it always comes 
between 5 and 6.....

Here, some people might not know this link: <A HREF="http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/lace.html">
http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/lace.html</A>

It has some costume-y goodness as well as lace, and nifty embroidery, too. 


-Sarra Wryght
Elizabethan Dress Journals: http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/index.html
Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
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Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 10:14:03 -0700
From: Dawn Jacobson <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Bents, reeds, and corset questions
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Drea--

All this discussion of rope from bents, effigy corsets, etc., has gotten me 
thinking: Have you ever tried using reeds from bulrushes (Scirpus spp) or 
cattails (typha spp) for anything?

I'm curious, as I have a virtually inexhaustible supply of free materials, 
if I just go out and gather them.

Dawn

Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are the costumes we wear every day. 
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Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 20:29:53 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seams - to finish or not to finish
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At 8:24 PM -0500 7/10/03, chiara wrote:
>Then I guess the question then I have is this:
>
>What is the seam finish and dates with them do we have?
>
>hand pressed:
>hand pressed and whipped stitched:
>frenched:
>flat felled:
>mock flat felled:
>pinked:
>hemmed:
>sergred:
>Others:
>
>Chiara

I collated together information on seam types, including "finishes" 
up through the medieval period in an article entitled "Archaeological 
Sewing".  There's a copy of the text only at 
<http://www.virtue.to/guest_authors/archaeological_sewing.html> -- I 
put a copy with the figures in the files section of the authentic-SCA 
yahoo-groups list, but now that yahoo changed the location of 
graphics files, the figure links won't work so it isn't much better 
than the plain text version.  One of these days when I have my own 
web site I'll make the full version available again.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bents, reeds, and corset questions
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Hm, no...what diameter are they?

Drea


On Fri, 11 Jul 2003, Dawn Jacobson wrote:

> Drea--
>
> All this discussion of rope from bents, effigy corsets, etc., has gotten me
> thinking: Have you ever tried using reeds from bulrushes (Scirpus spp) or
> cattails (typha spp) for anything?
>
> I'm curious, as I have a virtually inexhaustible supply of free materials,
> if I just go out and gather them.
>
> Dawn
>
> Dawn Jacobson
> Vallejo, CA, USA
>
> Clothes are the costumes we wear every day.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Thanks, Robin and Tasha!

When I can find someone around here I trust to help fit me, I finally 
feel secure in knowing how to go about it.

Allison

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Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 13:29:28 -0400
From: "J.A.Urbik" <jaurbik@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Another farthingale image was - Re: [h-cost] Making/finding
 bentrope
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Can someone who knows the language translate the writing?  I am curious,
but since I last took french about 16 years ago i am LOST.  Though I did
spend the morning trying to teach equations to summer school creole
speakers if that has any impact on french :>

jordana


Lisa Sinervo wrote:
> 
> The picture comes from Dress and Undress, A History of Women's Underwear by
> Elizabeth Ewing, Drama Book Specialists (Publishers) New York, 1978 - I'd
> wouldn't spend money on this one, a library lend is all that it's worth.
> But I don't recall seeing this image before.
> 
> Lisa
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Drea Leed" <drea@nospam>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Friday, July 11, 2003 6:23 AM
> Subject: Re: Another farthingale image was - Re: [h-cost] Making/finding
> bent rope
> 
> > Cool pic!! OK, another book I have to hunt up...you wouldn't happen to
> > have the source for this picture available?
> >
> > You know, I'm not sure that this on /is/ a farthingale, rather than a
> > welted kirtle skirt. Look at the way the bottom edge ripples, and how the
> > side-on view of the edge of the welts is completely flat.
> >
> > Thanks for the picture,
> >
> > Drea
> >
> >
> > On Thu, 10 Jul 2003, Lisa Sinervo wrote:
> >
> > > Here's another image I recently ran across ........
> > > http://www.threadneedlest.com/Bulletinboard.htm  French 1567 according
> to
> > > Dress and Undress, Ahistory of Women's Underware.  Elizabeth Ewing
> > >
> > > Lisa
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Drea Leed" <drea@nospam>
> > > To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > > Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 2:01 PM
> > > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > > Oooh, that makes me happy!  I'm about to start a corded petticoat,
> and
> > > > > was dreading sewing those channels.  Whipstitching, though, *that* I
> can
> > > > > do very happily!  Though I think I might sew it to the inside of the
> > > > > petticoat rather than the outside.
> > > >
> > > > True.  One thing, though--it can be demmed uncomfortable trying to sit
> in
> > > > a petticoat corded on the inside, depending on the size of the
> cording. :)
> > > >
> > > > I'm looking forward to seeing how the bands of contrasting color look
> on
> > > > the outside, once I'm done.
> > > >
> > > > Let me know how yours works...we can compare.
> > > >
> > > > I've been thinking about exactly what evidence we have, from period
> > > > sources, about how farthingales were stiffened.
> > > >
> > > > *We have the name: verdugado, or "sapling-guard", an indication that
> > > > they were made of wood (or willow withies, or osiers) and sewn as
> "guards"
> > > > onto skirts.
> > > >
> > > > *We have pictures of farthingales from late 15th c. spain, that
> clearly
> > > > have round hoops fastened to the outside of the skirt at various
> points
> > > > along the length of the skirt, covered with fabric.
> > > > (http://costume.dm.net/farthingale/images/salome.gif)
> > > >
> > > > *We have Alcega's pattern for the shape of the skirt, but
> unfortunately he
> > > > says nothing about how the willow bents are to be attached to this
> item.
> > > > (http://costume.dm.net/images/alcega.gif)
> > > >
> > > > *We have written references to farthingales stiffened with bent rope
> and
> > > > whalebone in 1560s and 1570s england. Again, no details about how they
> > > > were sewn on. Also, references to "styffeninge" farthingales, by some
> > > > unknown method. (starch? adding more bent?) and references to covering
> > > > bent rope with fabric. All from Elizabeth's wardrobe accounts.
> > > >
> > > > *We have a depiction of a "spanish apron", which bears a striking
> > > > resemblance to a farthingale sliced up the front with padding around
> the
> > > > hips.
> (http://www.elizabethanlady.com/images/farthingale/spanishapron.jpg)
> > > >
> > > > *We have a picture of a Spanish lady in Morocco wearing
> > > > a farthingale stiffened with a semi-stiff material, sewn into what
> looks
> > > > like tucked channels, dated from 1545.
> > > > (http://costume.dm.net/farthingale/images/rope-farth1545-sm.gif)
> > > >
> > > > *We have various pictures (such as the italian woman aforementioned,
> the
> > > > woodcut of Queen Elizabeth out hunting, and others) which could
> possibly
> > > > show farthingales worn under skirts...though this isn't certain.
> > > > (http://costume.dm.net/Tailors/pages/f103R.html), and
> > > > (http://costume.dm.net/gallery/images/lizpic1.gif)
> > > >
> > > > *We have a picture showing the back side of a french woman that
> reveals
> > > > the bottom edge of her farthingale underneath her skirt, revealing a
> hoop
> > > > along the bottom edge.
> > > >
> > > > And that's it, really. All other information that I've found has been
> > > > interpretations based on the above facts, including Arnold's
> recreation of
> > > > the alcega farthingale by sewing separate wood hoops into tucks, and
> > > > comments by the authors of all other major costume history works.
> > > >
> > > > There's really precious little out there. One picture supports the
> > > > idea that the stiffening material was sewn into tucks; two others
> > > > support the idea that they were sewn on as separate rings around the
> > > > skirt, and then covered with fabric.  One picture suggests that the
> > > > rope was applied as a spiral on the outside of the skirt. All 16th c.
> pics
> > > > of what we interpret to be farthingales show the stiffening applied in
> > > > rows much closer than the 5 or 6 rows that most recreated farthingales
> > > display.
> > > >
> > > > We don't even know much about exactly what was used for stiffening.
> The
> > > > name suggests willow osiers, the 1545 picture suggests rope or rag or
> some
> > > > non-stiff material, and Elizabeth's wardrobe accounts suggest
> bent-rope.
> > > > There's no indication that hoops were sewn on the inner side of the
> > > > farthingale, or rope sewn on tucks on the inner side of the
> farthingale.
> > > > Though given the dearth of evidence, it's entirely possible this was
> done
> > > > as well.
> > > >
> > > > Just thinking out loud...
> > > >
> > > > Drea
> > > >
> > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > h-costume mailing list
> > > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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> 
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Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 13:36:10 -0400
From: "J.A.Urbik" <jaurbik@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seams - to finish or not to finish
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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This is very much not primary sourse, but Mistresss Thorkatla (mka
Katheryn Nikolich) in a booklet on "The Greenland Gowns"  says on p.14
	"Gowns were sewn with some form of french seam(1)  to prolong wear, or
less frequently, some were lined"
"(1) see back cover for sample of french seam on the front and
sideseams"
	
Unforunetly, even though the book is very informative (and I would
welcome anyone's constuctive comments on it) that illustration is, due
to copying, quite unclear.  

jordana
 

Drea Leed wrote:
> 
> The Museum of London's "Textiles and Clothing" book has some good
> demonstrations of various medieval finishes used.
> 
> Drea
> 
> On Fri, 11 Jul 2003, Beteena Paradise wrote:
> 
> > Do you have some references I could check to see the proper way to finish
> > seams? I am sadly ignorant of how to do many of the techniques mentioned in
> > this thread. I know how to french seam, but I usually just serge. I would
> > prefer to do something more appropriate.
> >
> > Teena
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <kat@grendal.rain.com>
> > To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 9:16 PM
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seams - to finish or not to finish
> >
> >
> > >
> > > >  I
> > > > talked to the entrant later about other construction techniques and
> > > > the entrant agreed the frenching (unneccessary for this fabric) caused
> > > > the problems with the gore.  Someone had told the entrant that it was
> > > > proper to french those seams and if she did not she would lose points.
> > >
> > > Did they show the person any documentation that frenching was period
> > > to begin with? I haven't found documentation for it until quite a bit
> > > past the usual "pre17thC" period. I've found felled seams, mock
> > > felled seams, overcast edges (which to me can take the place of
> > > "serging") and the like, but I've never found french seams.
> > >
> > > > *I* have also had people ask me "how did you finish that seam" - my
> > > > reply is usually, "I ironed it flat" and occasionally, "I ironed it
> > > > flat and fulled" The last time, the asker replied with a disappointed
> > > > "Oh.  Tsk.  Tsk.  Tsk."  I haven't had any problem with the unfinished
> > > > seams of linen shirts raveling...or wool dresses.
> > >
> > > I've found a lot of problems with linen ravelling like crazy. In
> > > fact, I know some people who won't make things with linen because
> > > they say that they hate the way it ravels and can't afford a serger.
> > >
> > > In terms of wool, it depends on how well fulled it is. Fulling it
> > > sufficiently *is* a form of seam finish.
> > >
> > > > Certainly, there are instances that you'd want to finish a seam - if
> > > > there's high stress, if you're using old or fine silk, etc...but WOOL
> > > > on a non-stressed seam?  And, if you must finish the seam, why not do
> > > > it in a more documentable way?  Is this a "serger mentality"?
> > >
> > > I don't think it's "serger mentality" since most of the people I hear
> > > about it the most from don't even use sergers.
> > >
> > > I think it is just misinformation. They hear that seams should be
> > > appropriately finished, remember the French Seams that someone taught
> > > them, and think that that's "appropriate". What they need is
> > > *appropriate" information about *appropriate* seam finishing
> > > techniques.
> > >
> > > If I had to finish the seams on a dress with gores, I think that I'd
> > > probably use a mock fell. More documentable to more time periods
> > > (from early Viking through 14th C through 16th C and on to "early
> > > modern" times.) And it's not so bulky! (It's especially helpful for
> > > keeping those awful little points at the top of gores from fraying
> > > out.
> > >
> > > Kat
> > > <kat@redtrollforge.com>
> > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> > >
> > >
> >
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> 
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> Thanks, Robin and Tasha!
> 
> When I can find someone around here I trust to help fit me, 
> I finally feel secure in knowing how to go about it. 
> Allison

Ditto! Thank you very much!
      --Kathy K. (off to survey stash and select GFD fabric!)

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope
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Drea wrote:
> Ditto Buffy...though, I've found that Austen flicks are the best for
> stitching, because you don't need to keep your eyes fixed on the movie to
> follow the plot.

Entirely agreed.  Though if you'd watched Buffy through and through like
I have (there are repeats every night, and I own a good chunk of the
DVDs) you wouldn't have to watch it to follow the plot either :)  Same
goes for Blackadder and Red Dwarf, the entirety of which I have on
video.

My general fallback for sewing is documentaries, though, as they tend to
have a fairly high ratio of explanatory speech to visual stuff.  And the
absolute *worst* thing is anything in a foreign language with subtitles!
(Or, as I discovered once when in a mad sewing rush in preparation for
Rowany Festival, that season 4 Buffy episode where they all lose their
voices and it becomes like a silent movie.

K.

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Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 10:56:45 -0700
From: Dawn Jacobson <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Seams - to finish or not to finish
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At 11:21 AM 7/11/2003 -0400, you wrote:
> >"Mine! It's all Mine!">>
>
>Heh. :)  It must be the Scots-Irish in me, but my triumphal dance only 
>comes out when I get that book on ILL, or long-term loan from U of Chi.

Unfortunately, my local library has a lousy ILL program (sad because I'm 
only 25 minutes from the Bancroft Library at UC Berkeley), so the postman 
brings me *lots* of packages. OTOH, I'm buying through abebooks now, so I 
don't feel so bad (I still wince if a book is more than $50, but it's 
getting easier--unfortunately!).


>Constance "Honey, I've got a 50% off coupon, let's buy a bolt of linen" 
>Fairfax

Bad Constance! I have a 50% off coupon too, and didn't even think of buying 
linen. Thanks for the idea.

Dawn

Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are the costumes we wear every day. 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seams - to finish or not to finish
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Drea wrote:
> No, sister, you're a member of the Ancient and Sacred Order of
> Bibliophiles. :)  There is nothing as exhilarating as recieving a rare
> costume book in the mail and then spending a good 15 minutes leaping
> about the living room with it clutched to your chest, crowing "Mine!
> It's all Mine!"

For me the real leaping and dancing happens when I get a really good
book on Elizabethan household management, but then I'm strange that way.
Suffice it to say that about 100 of the books in the Elizabethan
bibliography (http://elizabethangeek.com/biblio/) are straight off my
shelves, and that's definitely not the only period I have books on.

K.

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Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 11:09:33 -0700
From: Dawn Jacobson <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bents, reeds, and corset questions
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At 01:28 PM 7/11/2003 -0400, Drea wrote:
>On Fri, 11 Jul 2003, Dawn Jacobson wrote:
>
> > Drea--
> >
> > All this discussion of rope from bents, effigy corsets, etc., has gotten me
> > thinking: Have you ever tried using reeds from bulrushes (Scirpus spp) or
> > cattails (typha spp) for anything?
> >
> > I'm curious, as I have a virtually inexhaustible supply of free materials,
> > if I just go out and gather them.


>Hm, no...what diameter are they?

I don't have any on hand, but I believe they're about 5mm diameter. I can 
go cut a few this afternoon and get accurate measurements.

Dawn

Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are the costumes we wear every day. 
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Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 14:16:16 -0400
From: ConstanceFairfax@cs.com
To: h-costume@indra.com (Historical Costume)
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Seams - to finish or not to finish
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>Bad Constance! I have a 50% off coupon too, and didn't even think of buying 
>linen. Thanks for the idea.
>
>Dawn

Also, about a month ago, I got an email from fabric.com that said they missed me, and here was a 20% off code for my entire order.  Well, I immediately went to use it, and our network crashed.  The next morning, I went to buy it again, but got interrupted by work (it has been incredibly slow here).  Then, I came back that afternoon surprised to find that fabric.com was putting their linen on 30% off - they honored the 30% and then gave me an additional 20% off - I paid about $3.25 a yard (plus they give you 3 inches extra per yard) for that haul, which came in a box that was about 3'x3'. I only have two lengths left, and my family is happy. :)
Thank you, IT guys! :)

Now I need wool.

Constance
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Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 11:27:54 -0700
Subject: Re: Another farthingale image was - Re: [h-cost] Making/finding
	bentrope
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On Friday, July 11, 2003, at 10:29  AM, J.A.Urbik wrote:

> Can someone who knows the language translate the writing?  I am 
> curious,
> but since I last took french about 16 years ago i am LOST.  Though I 
> did
> spend the morning trying to teach equations to summer school creole
> speakers if that has any impact on french :>
>>>> http://www.threadneedlest.com/Bulletinboard.htm  French 1567 
>>>> according

You know... I'm just going off my extraordinarily rusty French, but I'm 
assuming it's referring to an English woman.  "Angloyse" (that funny 
"f" thing is an "s" in case anyone is confused)  is close enough to 
"Anglais" to make that assumption, but I know someone will correct me 
if I'm wrong.  ;)

Sarah

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Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 11:43:23 -0700 (PDT)
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Subject: [h-cost] Hollywood film costumes shops
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Hi,

A recent visit to my Uncle in Canada got us working to put our family tree
slowly back together.  One of the things that we found out is that
I have a great granduncle from my mother side named Tom Gibbons who owned
a costume business in Hollywood back in the 30s and 40s and did a lot of
busines there, until he retired around the war time.

I wonder if anyone here has any connections to the costume business in the
Hollywood area who might help find me trace the history of that side of my
family...maybe there are still some very old persons in the costumes
business still remember my great granduncle by any chance?  or see if
there are any descendants of his?

I don't think searching in any US Government database woudl work...because
we are not sure if he ever got US citizenship.





--
Vincent B. Ho  hbv@tsoft.com
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From: "chiara" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] film costumes
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 13:36:46 -0500
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Actually, for the Disney ones you go to disneyauctions.com and it takes you
to their site which in my professional opinion is not done very well at all
search wise.

The others are buried, you have to know how to manipulated the search
parameters to find them.

Here is how I do it, everyone else please chime in with your best ways too.

go to http://pages.ebay.com/theme/movies.html

then go to Movie Costumes and go from there.

Otherwise go to the studio and search for the auction links off of them.
Some will lead you to their areas on ebay or other auction houses.

Sincerely,
Chiara
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Laura Dickerson" <lauradi7@hotmail.com>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Friday, July 11, 2003 11:55 AM
Subject: [h-cost] film costumes


:   How do you search to find film costumes on ebay?
:
: feeling ignorant,
: Laura Dickerson
:
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From: "Betsy Marshall" <betsy@softwareinnovation.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bents, reeds, and corset questions
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 13:51:02 -0500
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If I recollect correctly, the cattails that grow around here (DFW Texas)
are
almost flat, or slightly d-shaped and from 3/8th to 3/4ths inches
wide-very very light once they are dried tho'; don't know how well they
stand up to lateral stresses- i.e. twisting and bending across the
lengthwise direction- however they flex nicely if you rotate the ends
perpendicular to the length
Just a few thoughts. Betsy

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Dawn Jacobson
Sent: Friday, July 11, 2003 1:10 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bents, reeds, and corset questions

At 01:28 PM 7/11/2003 -0400, Drea wrote:
>On Fri, 11 Jul 2003, Dawn Jacobson wrote:
>
> > Drea--
> >
> > All this discussion of rope from bents, effigy corsets, etc., has
gotten me
> > thinking: Have you ever tried using reeds from bulrushes (Scirpus
spp) or
> > cattails (typha spp) for anything?
> >
> > I'm curious, as I have a virtually inexhaustible supply of free
materials,
> > if I just go out and gather them.


>Hm, no...what diameter are they?

I don't have any on hand, but I believe they're about 5mm diameter. I
can 
go cut a few this afternoon and get accurate measurements.

Dawn

Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are the costumes we wear every day. 
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Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 15:02:31 -0400
From: "J.A.Urbik" <jaurbik@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I guess the only question I would have about something that light is
"How well will it hold up heavy skirts"? 

jordana


Drea Leed wrote:

> With stiffening like bent rope sewn on the outside, I'll bet the
> farthingale material itself can be much lighter, since it doesn't have to
> be sturdy enough to hold the boning material stiched
> inside tucks. The fabric would act more as a shaped base to keep the
> spiral of bent rope in place, rather than the rope working to "hold out"
> the skirt to the proper location.
> 
> Happy happy,
> 
> Drea
> 
>

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Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 10:57:41 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: Another farthingale image was - Re: [h-cost] 	Making/finding
	bent rope
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At 1:13 PM +0100 7/11/03, Kate M Bunting wrote:
>  >>> mooncat@in-tch.com 07/11/03 11:54am >>>
>Lisa Sinervo wrote:
>>
>>  Here's another image I recently ran across ........
>  > http://www.threadneedlest.com/Bulletinboard.htm  French 1567
>according to
>  > Dress and Undress, Ahistory of Women's Underware.  Elizabeth Ewing

>Interesting that they say she's French, when the label says
>"L'Angloyse." (English?)
>Or is it just the image that's French? <g>
>It certainly is an intriguely odd hat style, though....and I'm trying
>to
>figure out what that knotted piece of fabric is behind her (veil?)
>Thanks for sharing!
>--sue
>

>In fact, the verse claims that it's a distinctively English style of
>cap!

This is fascinating because the picture is clearly closely related to 
the illustration of "L'angloise" in Francois Deserps' 1562 book, 
reprinted in facsimile recently as:

Deserps, Franois.  2001.  The Various Styles of Clothing.  James 
Ford Bell, Minneapolis.  ISBN 0-8166-4013-0

It's a French book surveying "costumes of the world".  Now, the image 
at the above web site has a different "frame" and uses a different 
typeface for the verse, although the verse is identical.  But the 
really weird point comes in with the hat.  In the 1562 book, the 
neckline of the bodice rises in a high standing collar, which the 
1567 image on the web site lacks, while having some indecipherable 
horizontal marking.  And in the 1562 image, the woman appears to be 
wearing a squarish biretta-style cap, which corresponds much better 
the the description in the verse of "son bonnet carr" (her square 
bonnet) than the rather odd winged thingie in the 1567 image.  Other 
than the head area, the two images appear to be identical 
line-for-line.  Clearly the same printing plates were being re-used 
(or carefully copied) with modifications of unknown motivation.

Deserps is one of those maddening sources to try to use for research. 
If you take the images in isolation, you might think that you were 
really getting eyewitness renditions of "the Persian woman" or "the 
Basque man".  But when you start looking at the collection as a 
whole, a bit more doubt starts arising -- especially when you get to 
the images of "the fish-bishop" and "the fish-monk" (I'm not even 
going to _try_ to describe them) and realize that more than a little 
pure imagination has gone into the drawings.

It's also interesting to see how people use this type of source 
selectively.  You'll commonly see Deserps' images of "the savage of 
Scotland" and "the savage [Scottish] captain" used to illustrate 
discussions of 16th century Scottish clothing, quite likely because 
the match people's notions of what that clothing _ought_ to have 
looked like.  But you almost never see the same discussions including 
the images of "the Scotsman" and "the Scotswoman" that immediately 
precede them -- and I suspect this is partly because the clothes 
portrayed in them are not what people want 16th c. Scottish clothing 
to have looked like.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****

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Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 11:01:26 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seams - to finish or not to finish
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At 10:23 AM -0400 7/11/03, LoreleiMorte@aol.com wrote:
>In a message dated 7/11/2003 9:04:53 AM Central Standard Time,
>bkessinger@ureach.com writes:
>
>>  Oooh! That book is on my wishlist for my birthday. Thanks!
>>
>
>Does anybody find that they have no willpower for books on wishlists? I just
>find that anything I try to put on my "I'll get it on my <insert gift getting
>day>!" ends up being gotten about 5 seconds later due to the whole Book
>Instant Gratification Need? Or am I just a big spoiled baby?

My friends and family know better than to try to buy me books as 
presents.  If it's a book I'd really like, then by the time it 
impinges on their radar, I've already owned it for a few years.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 15:09:19 -0400 (EDT)
From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: Another farthingale image was - Re: [h-cost] Making/finding
 bentrope
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You know, this woman is almost identical to a woman depicted on a map of
Tudor London, at http://lewis.up.edu/efl/asarnow/TudorMapofLondon.html.

Interesting...

Drea


On Fri, 11 Jul 2003, Sarah wrote:

>
> On Friday, July 11, 2003, at 10:29  AM, J.A.Urbik wrote:
>
> > Can someone who knows the language translate the writing?  I am
> > curious,
> > but since I last took french about 16 years ago i am LOST.  Though I
> > did
> > spend the morning trying to teach equations to summer school creole
> > speakers if that has any impact on french :>
> >>>> http://www.threadneedlest.com/Bulletinboard.htm  French 1567
> >>>> according
>
> You know... I'm just going off my extraordinarily rusty French, but I'm
> assuming it's referring to an English woman.  "Angloyse" (that funny
> "f" thing is an "s" in case anyone is confused)  is close enough to
> "Anglais" to make that assumption, but I know someone will correct me
> if I'm wrong.  ;)
>
> Sarah
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope
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Ah, the 10,000 shilling question! :)

I'll let you all know, once I finish it.

Drea


On Fri, 11 Jul 2003, J.A.Urbik wrote:

> I guess the only question I would have about something that light is
> "How well will it hold up heavy skirts"?
>
> jordana
>
>
> Drea Leed wrote:
>
> > With stiffening like bent rope sewn on the outside, I'll bet the
> > farthingale material itself can be much lighter, since it doesn't have to
> > be sturdy enough to hold the boning material stiched
> > inside tucks. The fabric would act more as a shaped base to keep the
> > spiral of bent rope in place, rather than the rope working to "hold out"
> > the skirt to the proper location.
> >
> > Happy happy,
> >
> > Drea
> >
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: Another farthingale image was - Re: [h-cost] Making/finding
 bentrope
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Wow, and the entire group off of the London map--including the same
woman-- is re-depicted in the Civitates Orbis Terrarum of 1572!

http://costume.dm.net/mappeople/mappeoplefullsize/london.jpeg

Drea


On Fri, 11 Jul 2003, Drea Leed wrote:

>
> You know, this woman is almost identical to a woman depicted on a map of
> Tudor London, at http://lewis.up.edu/efl/asarnow/TudorMapofLondon.html.
>
> Interesting...
>
> Drea
>
>
> On Fri, 11 Jul 2003, Sarah wrote:
>
> >
> > On Friday, July 11, 2003, at 10:29  AM, J.A.Urbik wrote:
> >
> > > Can someone who knows the language translate the writing?  I am
> > > curious,
> > > but since I last took french about 16 years ago i am LOST.  Though I
> > > did
> > > spend the morning trying to teach equations to summer school creole
> > > speakers if that has any impact on french :>
> > >>>> http://www.threadneedlest.com/Bulletinboard.htm  French 1567
> > >>>> according
> >
> > You know... I'm just going off my extraordinarily rusty French, but I'm
> > assuming it's referring to an English woman.  "Angloyse" (that funny
> > "f" thing is an "s" in case anyone is confused)  is close enough to
> > "Anglais" to make that assumption, but I know someone will correct me
> > if I'm wrong.  ;)
> >
> > Sarah
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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<<<And linen isn't the only fabric to crawl like that. >>>  HA!  If you
want to deal with crawl, try cutting and sewing silk chiffon.  Even with
years of sewing experience, the thought of it makes my stomach churn!

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seams - to finish or not to finish
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kirrily Robert" <skud@infotrope.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, July 11, 2003 1:59 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seams - to finish or not to finish


> Drea wrote:
> > No, sister, you're a member of the Ancient and Sacred Order of
> > Bibliophiles. :)  There is nothing as exhilarating as recieving a rare
> > costume book in the mail and then spending a good 15 minutes leaping
> > about the living room with it clutched to your chest, crowing "Mine!
> > It's all Mine!"
> 
> For me the real leaping and dancing happens when I get a really good
> book on Elizabethan household management

Huh. I have that reaction to ANY new book I get! 

I used to think I had a lot of books--and then I joined the SCA.

Dianne

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	<000f01c347ad$3c8b43e0$210110ac@TEENALAPTOP>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT:Pirates of the Caribbean-oooh Johnny!
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 16:13:36 -0400
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I have been a fan of Johnny's since Don Juan... got the movie and
soundtrack.  What a romantic movie!  My daughter is taking me to the Pirates
movie tonight for my birthday.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Jul 11 16:27:34 2003
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Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 13:28:31 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Lynn Downward <LDownward@chori.org>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: fitting a GFD/cotte
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I agree.  The first I worked with silk chiffon (for a 20's beaded 
slip dress) I basted the pattern to the fabric and still had a time 
with the fabric.  I was SO afraid of cutting into this very expensive 
fabric and messing it up.  The basting took a lot of time but it cut 
better than it would have and the dress turned out wonderfully.

After the chiffon, the linen wasn't as big a deal any longer.

LynnD

><<<And linen isn't the only fabric to crawl like that. >>>  HA!  If you
>want to deal with crawl, try cutting and sewing silk chiffon.  Even with
>years of sewing experience, the thought of it makes my stomach churn!
>
>Lalah
>Never give up, Never surrender
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Subject: Re: Another farthingale image was - Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent
	rope
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What's THAT on her head??

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lisa Sinervo" <lisa-list@threadneedlest.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, July 11, 2003 1:10 AM
Subject: Another farthingale image was - Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent
rope


> Here's another image I recently ran across ........
> http://www.threadneedlest.com/Bulletinboard.htm  French 1567 according to
> Dress and Undress, Ahistory of Women's Underware.  Elizabeth Ewing
>
> Lisa
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From: "Jennifer Sena" <distantdesigns@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT:Pirates quote
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 14:39:12 -0700
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>Hi. Of course, as if to contradict all of the evidence presented by the 
>many women on this list, as well as others, one of the ads for the movie 
>presented the female lead stating "Oh, you like pain, do you? Try wearing a 
>corset."   Is there a little character for a sneer on my keyboard?  Mike T.

I thought that her father had brought her a "New Fashion from London" which 
I thought explained some initial discomfort.  If you had just worn a New 
corset for however many scenes and hadn't had it custom fitted since it WAS 
a suprise, might it not have been less than perfect?  That was just how I 
justified it all in my mind so I could go Back to staring.

Jennifer Sena
Distant Designs
http://home.teleport.com/~cedric/distdesi

I wont hurt you, I just want to dress you up!!

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Subject: Re: Another farthingale image was - Re: [h-cost] Making/finding
	bentrope
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Well... it's old French and the pic is not very clear, some letters I just
can't make out, but...
in modern French it would be something like:
L'Angloyse
Anisi vtue est une femme Angloise
Par le dessus son bonnet est [foutr?fourr?]
On la conn (unreadable) [qu'aux lieux on ne la voise]
Facilement  son bonnet carr.

An Angloise lady is dressed like this
Her bonnet is (stuffed?) from the top
(and then I'm not sure what it is, but it sounds like: "you can recognize
her easily because of her square bonnet")

Sorry I can't do any better. I might be a native French speaker, but I'm not
a student of old languages :-)

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "J.A.Urbik" <jaurbik@optonline.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, July 11, 2003 1:29 PM
Subject: Re: Another farthingale image was - Re: [h-cost] Making/finding
bentrope


> Can someone who knows the language translate the writing?  I am curious,
> but since I last took french about 16 years ago i am LOST.  Though I did
> spend the morning trying to teach equations to summer school creole
> speakers if that has any impact on french :>
>
> jordana
>
> > > > Here's another image I recently ran across ........
> > > > http://www.threadneedlest.com/Bulletinboard.htm  French 1567
according
> > to
> > > > Dress and Undress, Ahistory of Women's Underware.  Elizabeth Ewing
> > > >
> > > > Lisa
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Subject: Re: Another farthingale image was - Re: [h-cost] Making/finding
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Drea wrote:
> Wow, and the entire group off of the London map--including the same
> woman-- is re-depicted in the Civitates Orbis Terrarum of 1572!
> 
> http://costume.dm.net/mappeople/mappeoplefullsize/london.jpeg

Is that a muff hanging in front?

K.
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: Another farthingale image was - Re: [h-cost] Making/finding 
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At 1:29 PM -0400 7/11/03, J.A.Urbik wrote:
>Can someone who knows the language translate the writing?  I am curious,
>but since I last took french about 16 years ago i am LOST.  Though I did
>spend the morning trying to teach equations to summer school creole
>speakers if that has any impact on french :>


Do you mean the verse on the 1567 print?

Pardon me for a moment while I take off on a tangential rant that has 
nothing to do with you specifically.

It seems like in the last couple of months _every_ list I'm on has 
slipped into lots of top-posting and lack of trimming of previous 
material.  When someone asks for a clarification about an existing 
post, it can be almost impossible to tell what's being asked for when 
the post includes the last eight or nine layers of postings with no 
editing.  I'm having more and more problems trying to follow the 
thread of conversations when responses just sit there at the top of 
the screen without any carefully selected context to show what 
they're replying to.  I'm not anybody with any authority to tell 
anyone how to post -- I'm just a pathetic little reader trying 
desperately to follow the conversations without having to bounce up 
and down the scroll-window to figure out what somebody's "Yes -- I 
absolutely agree with you!" is actually agreeing with.

up is not it.
practice, and bottom
in standard English
to reading text
There's a normal order

Thank you for letting me get that out of my system.

The verse as given in Deserps (1562), which is identical to the one 
on the 1567 print, is:

L'angloise

Ainsi vestue est une femme Angloise,
Par le dedans son bonnet est fourr
On la cognoist (bien qu'au lieux on ne voise)
Facilement  son bonnet carr.

Which is given in modern translation as:

The English woman

An English woman dresses like this,
The inside of her bonnet is lined with fur,
She is easily recognizable (even in foreign places)
By her square bonnet.

Most of the verses are even more content-free, being variations of 
the theme of "this is what the people of such-and-such a place really 
wear -- you can believe me although it seems strange".  An example is 
the illustration of "Le sauvage en pompe" (the savage on display -- 
no particular location is specified):

When the savage is boasting or displaying,
He is suitably dressed like this.
If you are afraid that this portrait deceives you,
Go to these places to see his clothes.

Or for "the Flemish woman"

This portrait is made with the intention of
Showing a true-to-life Flemish woman.
If you do not go to these places: her clothing,
Is represented here in great detail.

Much less commonly, the verses mention specifics of the picture, as 
for the "woman of Brabant":

The woman of Brabant has a stiff manner here,
In this portrait which is simply composed,
Her outfit has a tucked up train,
And her coiffure is like starched linen.

Heather

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Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seams - to finish or not to finish
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At 1:36 PM -0400 7/11/03, J.A.Urbik wrote:
>This is very much not primary sourse, but Mistresss Thorkatla (mka
>Katheryn Nikolich) in a booklet on "The Greenland Gowns"  says on p.14
>	"Gowns were sewn with some form of french seam(1)  to prolong wear, or
>less frequently, some were lined"
>"(1) see back cover for sample of french seam on the front and
>sideseams"
>
>Unforunetly, even though the book is very informative (and I would
>welcome anyone's constuctive comments on it) that illustration is, due
>to copying, quite unclear.

I'm not familiar with this booklet, and it's possible that she had 
access to information not in general circulation, but Norlund's 
descriptions of the seams don't include anything interpretable as a 
French seam.  The only seam finish that he mentions is some 
decorative backstitching (which I interpret as being added after the 
seam is flattened).

Heather
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I bought this gorgeous silk brocade on ebay thinking it looked like 
this: http://www.elizabethanlady.com/images/i-1.JPG

Instead, I got this: 
http://www.elizabethanlady.com/images/silkbrocade.jpg

(Not that anything in the auction mentioned the photo was waaaaay off 
on the color, but that's beside the point)

I'm not a purple person, but I decided to keep it because it sure is 
pretty, no matter how you look at it.  The only trouble is that I want 
to use it in a Tudor or Elizabethan gown, but I can't seem to think of 
any purple being used during that time period.  Does anyone know of any 
purple being used in clothing during the 16th century?  Sources?  
Images?  Ideas?

The fact that it's purple will probably not keep me from using it in a 
costume, but I'm just stumped that I can't actually consciously 
remember seeing purple being used in clothing in any of the thousands 
of portraits I've looked at over the years.

Sarah

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Subject: [h-cost] Bamberg Lining?  Anyone used this before?
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Hi all, my cousin has asked me to make her a riding coat for her show season
this year.  She gave me one of her old ones to make a pattern out of.  I was
surprised to find that the lining was a synthetic satin.  (The fashion
fabric is silk dupioni)  I was wondering if they did this because the lining
is exposed to perspiration.  Anyway, I can't find duchess satin in the right
color and I don't trust my dyeing skills to make sure it is colour fast,
especially under "High sweat" conditions (My cousins swears she sweats more
than her mounts).

 

So after that long explanation, I have heard great things about Bamberg
linings.  Have any of you used this lining and what are your opinions about
using it under extreme conditions?


Thanks in advance,

Sg

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>>Hi. Of course, as if to contradict all of the evidence presented by the 
>>many women on this list, as well as others, one of the ads for the movie 
>>presented the female lead stating "Oh, you like pain, do you? Try wearing 
>>a corset."   Is there a little character for a sneer on my keyboard?  Mike T.
>
>I thought that her father had brought her a "New Fashion from London" 
>which I thought explained some initial discomfort.  If you had just worn a 
>New corset for however many scenes and hadn't had it custom fitted since 
>it WAS a suprise, might it not have been less than perfect?  That was just 
>how I justified it all in my mind so I could go Back to staring.

And if the curse had already happened before she arrived in the Caribbean, 
the plum dress could well be several years out of date too.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
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Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2003 00:07:25 -0400
Subject: Re: [h-cost] KWCS / KWAR Announcement
From: Grace Morris <grace.morris@providenceday.org>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I'm teaching on 13th c. Spain.  This will be my third KWCS.

Grace/Jessamyn

> From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 13:40:31 -0500 (CDT)
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] KWCS / KWAR Announcement
> 
> 
> On Sat, 5 Jul 2003, Cynthia J Ley wrote:
> 
>> Greetings all. Thought this SCA event might be of interest--the Known
>> World Costuming Symposium.
> 
> I'll be there (obviously!). Anyone else? I'd love to meet some people from
> the list...
> 
> --Robin
> 
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Subject: [h-cost] L'Angloyfe
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On Friday, July 11, 2003, at 10:29 AM, J.A.Urbik wrote:

>Can someone who knows the language translate the writing? I am curious,
>but since I last took french about 16 years ago i am LOST. Though I did
>spend the morning trying to teach equations to summer school creole
>speakers if that has any impact on french :>

Mine is a bit rusty, too. Perhaps someone can correct any errors?

The Englishwoman

So attired is an English woman
On top, her bonnet is furred
One may recognize her (at least where she can be seen)
Easily by her square(d) bonnet.



Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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>planning on doing the same to League of Extraordinary
>Gentlemen tonight :-)

Ooh ohh!  All the stuff related to Captain Nemo was gorgeous. Even
the deep sea divers had elaborate metalwork on their helmets.  And
Dorian Grey was prime, grade-A eye candy!

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Jul 12 06:48:51 2003
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Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2003 11:44:27 +0100 (BST)
From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need Ideas For This Fabric
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Personally, I would have sent it back and complained that the colour was
different & unusable, but that's personal choice :-) It IS a very beautiful
fabric!
However, not being a 16th c. fiend I won't be able to add to your hopeful
search, and being a 17th c. fiend I have to say that I, too, have not come
across a single portrait in this type of modern purple. Sorry....

However, it is a gorgeous, gorgeous fabric! Perosnally, I'd make something
seriously fancy to wear to work (okay, so my work clotehs are not particularly
'normal' :-)

Nicole

 --- Sarah <sarah@elizabethanlady.com> wrote: > I bought this gorgeous silk
brocade on ebay thinking it looked like 
> this: http://www.elizabethanlady.com/images/i-1.JPG
> 
> Instead, I got this: 
> http://www.elizabethanlady.com/images/silkbrocade.jpg
> 
> (Not that anything in the auction mentioned the photo was waaaaay off 
> on the color, but that's beside the point)
> 
> I'm not a purple person, but I decided to keep it because it sure is 
> pretty, no matter how you look at it.  The only trouble is that I want 
> to use it in a Tudor or Elizabethan gown, but I can't seem to think of 
> any purple being used during that time period.  Does anyone know of any 
> purple being used in clothing during the 16th century?  Sources?  
> Images?  Ideas?
> 
> The fact that it's purple will probably not keep me from using it in a 
> costume, but I'm just stumped that I can't actually consciously 
> remember seeing purple being used in clothing in any of the thousands 
> of portraits I've looked at over the years.
> 
> Sarah
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

=====
Men Die. Cattle Die. Word-Fame Lives Forever.   ~ Old Norse Aphorism

Email: nicole@kipar.org
URL: http://www.kipar.org

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	<a05100306bb34cddde936@[172.19.1.35]>
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Subject: [h-cost] 
	cutting chiffon and other woodgy fabric (was fitting a GFD/cotte)
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Lynn Downward wrote:
> I agree.  The first I worked with silk chiffon (for a 20's beaded slip 
> dress) I basted the pattern to the fabric and still had a time with the 
> fabric.  I was SO afraid of cutting into this very expensive fabric and 
> messing it up.  The basting took a lot of time but it cut better than it 
> would have and the dress turned out wonderfully.

One thing that really helps when cutting fabric that's trying to crawl 
off the table (and out the door) is to get a pair of Gingher 
micro-serrated shears.  They're designed just for this, and they have 
tons of teeny tiny teeth that grab the fabric and hold it so that they 
can cut it without it sliding.  They're amazing.

There are several sizes and shapes of them at
http://www.gingher.com/products/serrdrsmkrs.htm

[standard disclaimer:  just a happy customer]

Happy cutting,
Melanie Schuessler
http://www.faucet.net/costume

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From: "J.A.Urbik" <jaurbik@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] L'Angloyfe -a translation
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Here is the web page 

> > > > Here's another image I recently ran across ........
> > > > http://www.threadneedlest.com/Bulletinboard.htm  
French 1567 according


Here is the translation.

> The Englishwoman
> 
> So attired is an English woman
> On top, her bonnet is furred
> One may recognize her (at least where she can be seen)
> Easily by her square(d) bonnet.
> 
> Brenda
> webwarren@earthlink.net


Thank you Brenda, Audrey, and Heather for the translation.  I appricate
the quickness of it as i was quite curious.  

Heather, I also apoliogize for the bad netquette, I was getting quite
lazy :>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] sharp object on airplanes
Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2003 10:47:35 -0500
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I seem to recall "reading somewhere" that some ladies did use these as self
defense.  Probably anecdotal.

Genie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Laura Dickerson" <lauradi7@hotmail.com>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Friday, July 11, 2003 9:57 AM
Subject: [h-cost] sharp object on airplanes


>   We always travel with the Fiskars  rounded end kids' scissors.  They've
> been scrutinized but never confiscated.
>
>    Shocking lapse on the part of airline personnel - last summer I walked
> through the x-ray machine (having emptied my pockets) wearing a large
straw
> hat that was pinned to my head.  With hat pins.  4 inches long, with a
> decorative item on one end but really sharp at the other end.  Machine
> didn't beep. Screening folks said nothing.  Flight attendants said
nothing.
> Hat stayed on when I walked out into the wind at the other end of the
trip,
> but those pins have to be more dangerous than the little sewing sharps
> (which I carry on in my wooden needle case, with no problem).
>
> Laura Dickerson
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost]books, was: Seams - to finish or not to finish
Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2003 10:54:03 -0500
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I have been asking family members to check my amazon wishlist for gift
ideas.  Or, gift cert.'s from fabric/book stores.  Sometimes they listen.
<g>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Beteena Paradise" <bkessinger@ureach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, July 11, 2003 11:27 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seams - to finish or not to finish


> I am trying to get better about that. Between my costuming books and my
> husband's heraldry books, we have been spending hundreds a month on
> books.... not to mention the problem of having places to put them!
>
> I did get rewarded for my patience however. Last weekend we celebrated my
> birthday early because we were visiting family. I received Janet Arnold's
> 1560-1620 and Medieval Tailor's Assistant as well as gift cards for
Michaels
> and Joanns.... they know me well. :)
>
> Teena
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <LoreleiMorte@aol.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Friday, July 11, 2003 10:23 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seams - to finish or not to finish
>
>
> > In a message dated 7/11/2003 9:04:53 AM Central Standard Time,
> > bkessinger@ureach.com writes:
> >
> > > Oooh! That book is on my wishlist for my birthday. Thanks!
> > >
> >
> > Does anybody find that they have no willpower for books on wishlists? I
> just
> > find that anything I try to put on my "I'll get it on my <insert gift
> getting
> > day>!" ends up being gotten about 5 seconds later due to the whole Book
> > Instant Gratification Need? Or am I just a big spoiled baby?
> >
> > -Sarra Wryght
> > Elizabethan Dress Journals:
> http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/index.html
> > Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Lisa Sinervo" <lisa-list@threadneedlest.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] cutting chiffon and other woodgy fabric (was fitting a
	GFD/cotte)
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> Lynn Downward wrote:
> > I agree.  The first I worked with silk chiffon (for a 20's beaded slip
> > dress) I basted the pattern to the fabric and still had a time with the
> > fabric.  I was SO afraid of cutting into this very expensive fabric and
> > messing it up.  The basting took a lot of time but it cut better than it
> > would have and the dress turned out wonderfully.
>
Temporary spray adhesive has become a standard sewing tool of mine and would
work well in this situation too.

Lisa

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] sharp object on airplanes: hatpins
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My mother and grandmother both told me that they found hat pins very
useful items in their youth for warding off unwanted advances, so not as
anecdotal as you might think.

As an aside, a fork can be a singularly useful tool too, in the right
circumstances.

Arlys



On Sat, 12 Jul 2003 10:47:35 -0500 "Genie" <kerowyn@mindspring.com>
writes:
> I seem to recall "reading somewhere" that some ladies did use these 
> as self
> defense.  Probably anecdotal.
> 
> Genie
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Laura Dickerson" <lauradi7@hotmail.com>
> To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
> Sent: Friday, July 11, 2003 9:57 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] sharp object on airplanes
> 
> 
> >   We always travel with the Fiskars  rounded end kids' scissors.  
> They've
> > been scrutinized but never confiscated.
> >
> >    Shocking lapse on the part of airline personnel - last summer I 
> walked
> > through the x-ray machine (having emptied my pockets) wearing a 
> large
> straw
> > hat that was pinned to my head.  With hat pins.  4 inches long, 
> with a
> > decorative item on one end but really sharp at the other end.  
> Machine
> > didn't beep. Screening folks said nothing.  Flight attendants said
> nothing.
> > Hat stayed on when I walked out into the wind at the other end of 
> the
> trip,
> > but those pins have to be more dangerous than the little sewing 
> sharps
> > (which I carry on in my wooden needle case, with no problem).
> >
> > Laura Dickerson
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE*
> > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> 
> 
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> 


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dawn Jacobson <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]  cutting chiffon and other woodgy fabric (was
  fitting a GFD/cotte)
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>Lynn Downward wrote:
>>I agree.  The first I worked with silk chiffon (for a 20's beaded slip 
>>dress) I basted the pattern to the fabric and still had a time with the 
>>fabric.  I was SO afraid of cutting into this very expensive fabric and 
>>messing it up.  The basting took a lot of time but it cut better than it 
>>would have and the dress turned out wonderfully.

Then Melanie replied:

>One thing that really helps when cutting fabric that's trying to crawl off 
>the table (and out the door) is to get a pair of Gingher micro-serrated 
>shears.  They're designed just for this, and they have tons of teeny tiny 
>teeth that grab the fabric and hold it so that they can cut it without it 
>sliding.  They're amazing.
>
>There are several sizes and shapes of them at
>http://www.gingher.com/products/serrdrsmkrs.htm
>
>[standard disclaimer:  just a happy customer]

Oooh, thank you, thank you! I just realized--I'm cutting out a 1920s tea 
dress from silk chiffon this afternoon. I think I'll run over to JoAnn's 
and spend my 50% off coupon on a pair of those scissors before I start.

Oh, and the absolute worst stuff I've ever worked with: silk charmeuse. 
There's a reason it's called "silk slime." ;->

Dawn


Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are the costumes we wear every day. 
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From: kat@grendal.rain.com
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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> This is very much not primary sourse, but Mistresss Thorkatla (mka
> Katheryn Nikolich) in a booklet on "The Greenland Gowns"  says on p.14
>  "Gowns were sewn with some form of french seam(1)  to prolong wear,
>  or
> less frequently, some were lined"
> "(1) see back cover for sample of french seam on the front and
> sideseams"
> 
> Unforunetly, even though the book is very informative (and I would
> welcome anyone's constuctive comments on it) that illustration is, due
> to copying, quite unclear.  

Unfortunately, the illustrations are the important part. Otherwise we 
don't know for sure whether "french seam" according to this person is 
what "french seam" means to someone else. Also, the original pieces 
which would actually show the stitching are important to know for 
sure that the interpretation of it is accurate.

I've seen any number of redrawings which did not accurately represent 
the original garments at all. (Like seams going at an 85 degree angle 
to where they should go according to the original garment and 
according to experimentation with both forms.) I've also seen things 
like "flat felled" seams labeled as "french seams" (which are totally 
different and certainly not interchangeable.)

Where is this pamphlet available?

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost]  cutting chiffon and other woodgy fabric (was fitting a
	GFD/cotte)
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I'm a big fan of quilt basting spray.  you can use this (it's like hair 
spray, but kinder to fabric)
and set the woodgie fabric onto thin paper and cut them together.  I 
also use quilt basting
spray to make underlining go faster for modern garments.

.heather.


On Saturday, July 12, 2003, at 08:43 AM, Melanie Schuessler wrote:

> Lynn Downward wrote:
>> I agree.  The first I worked with silk chiffon (for a 20's beaded 
>> slip dress) I basted the pattern to the fabric and still had a time 
>> with the fabric.  I was SO afraid of cutting into this very expensive 
>> fabric and messing it up.  The basting took a lot of time but it cut 
>> better than it would have and the dress turned out wonderfully.
>
> One thing that really helps when cutting fabric that's trying to crawl 
> off the table (and out the door) is to get a pair of Gingher 
> micro-serrated shears.  They're designed just for this, and they have 
> tons of teeny tiny teeth that grab the fabric and hold it so that they 
> can cut it without it sliding.  They're amazing.
>
> There are several sizes and shapes of them at
> http://www.gingher.com/products/serrdrsmkrs.htm
>
> [standard disclaimer:  just a happy customer]
>
> Happy cutting,
> Melanie Schuessler
> http://www.faucet.net/costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: Dawn Jacobson <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seams - to finish or not to finish
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--- kat@grendal.rain.com wrote:
> 
> > This is very much not primary sourse, but
> Mistresss Thorkatla (mka
> > Katheryn Nikolich) in a booklet on "The Greenland
> Gowns"  says on p.14
> >  "Gowns were sewn with some form of french seam(1)
>  to prolong wear,
> >  or
> > less frequently, some were lined"
> > "(1) see back cover for sample of french seam on
> the front and
> > sideseams"
> > 
> > Unforunetly, even though the book is very
> informative (and I would
> > welcome anyone's constuctive comments on it) that
> illustration is, due
> > to copying, quite unclear.  
> 
> Unfortunately, the illustrations are the important
> part. Otherwise we 
> don't know for sure whether "french seam" according
> to this person is 
> what "french seam" means to someone else. Also, the
> original pieces 
> which would actually show the stitching are
> important to know for 
> sure that the interpretation of it is accurate.
> 
> I've seen any number of redrawings which did not
> accurately represent 
> the original garments at all. (Like seams going at
> an 85 degree angle 
> to where they should go according to the original
> garment and 
> according to experimentation with both forms.) I've
> also seen things 
> like "flat felled" seams labeled as "french seams"
> (which are totally 
> different and certainly not interchangeable.)
> 
> Where is this pamphlet available?
> 
> Kat
> <kat@redtrollforge.com>

Kat--

Talk about finding things in weird places...

I got curious so I "googled" Mistress Thorkatla and
Greenland Gowns and got a reference back to h-costume,
to a post published 4/2/97 regarding a discussion of
construction of a Greenland gown, and she notes in her
last paragraph that she was preparing a handout at
that time. Her full SCA name was/is Mistress Thorkatla
Herjolfsdotter, OP, and she was in the Shire of
Eisental, East Kingdom.

Hope this information helps.

Dawn


=====
Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are just the costumes we wear every day.
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]  cutting chiffon and other woodgy fabric (was fitting
 a GFD/cotte)
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On Sat, 12 Jul 2003, Heather Meadows wrote:

> I'm a big fan of quilt basting spray.  you can use this (it's like hair 
> spray, but kinder to fabric)
> and set the woodgie fabric onto thin paper and cut them together.  I 
> also use quilt basting
> spray to make underlining go faster for modern garments.

This sounds cool.How do you get it out? Does it wash out, iron out, just
disappear over time?

--Robin

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it washes out!


On Saturday, July 12, 2003, at 11:15 AM, Robin Netherton wrote:

>
> On Sat, 12 Jul 2003, Heather Meadows wrote:
>
>> I'm a big fan of quilt basting spray.  you can use this (it's like 
>> hair
>> spray, but kinder to fabric)
>> and set the woodgie fabric onto thin paper and cut them together.  I
>> also use quilt basting
>> spray to make underlining go faster for modern garments.
>
> This sounds cool.How do you get it out? Does it wash out, iron out, 
> just
> disappear over time?
>
> --Robin
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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> >planning on doing the same to League of Extraordinary
> >Gentlemen tonight :-)
>
> Ooh ohh!  All the stuff related to Captain Nemo was gorgeous. Even
> the deep sea divers had elaborate metalwork on their helmets.  And
> Dorian Grey was prime, grade-A eye candy!

I loved the way the woman dressed too :-)
The libraries with books to the ceiling were really impressive too... And
the old buildings all throughout the book. Plus all those nice costumes, and
those nice-looking people in the costumes :-)
I guess we can't really criticise the costumes or historical accuracy of the
movie because... well... it just wasn't meant to be authentic :-) So we can
just watch and have fun... that's a relief!
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"Genie" <kerowyn@mindspring.com>charset="iso-8859-1" wrote:

 >I seem to recall "reading somewhere" that some ladies did use these as 
self
 >defense.  Probably anecdotal.

"Laura Dickerson" <lauradi7@hotmail.com> wrote:
 >>    Shocking lapse on the part of airline personnel - last summer I 
walked
 >> through the x-ray machine (having emptied my pockets) wearing a large
 >> straw hat that was pinned to my head.  With hat pins.  4 inches long,
 >> with a decorative item on one end but really sharp at the other end.

Well, ISTR that there was an urban legend in the early part of the 20th 
C that women were murdering people with hatpins and that iwas some kind 
of menace so they should be banned. OTOH, this could be a Modern 
Historical Costuming Legend, instead.

Don't remember if I've ever seen it in print.

Maura

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: fabric stores and men
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Fingers x'd. Good to hear!

Has anyone else noticed their local Hancock's going down the tubes (ours 
no longer has Threads or Sew News magazine!)  Or is it just this area 
which is depressed anyhow?

Heather L

Jeff Brainard wrote:

>yeah, it's Hancock's I'm having problems with. I wonder if part of it
>is sideways homophobia. I took a new job today, so cross your fingers
>girls!
>
>Jeff
>
>
>  
>
>>Sorry you are having troubles Jeff.  A good friend of mine also has
>>problems when he goes into fabrics stores to shop, at least Hancock's
>>or
>>JoAnn's.  They know him very well in the two higher-end stores here
>>in
>>town and he has no problems there.  That could also be because,
>>especially in one of them, they are very familiar with his work and
>>he
>>is an awesome costume (started in Civil War and we are sucking him
>>into
>>Elizabethan, yes I'm trying to get him onto this list :). 
>>http://www.kcrenfest.com/PhotoGallery/Fops.html.  Jason is the
>>gentleman on the right and he created all 3 costumes).
>>
>>I had not really thought of it before but after Jeff has brought this
>>up, I don't see very many men in our local fabric stores, at least
>>the
>>Hancock's and JoAnn's, either working at them or shopping.  One of
>>the
>>remaining, smaller, JoAnn's used to be managed by a man but he has
>>since
>>left.  Both of the higher-end stores do have male employees, one is
>>owned by a man.  Sounds like any problems might be more with the
>>larger
>>chains.
>>
>>Catherine
>>
>>_______________________________________________
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>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>    
>>
>
>
>__________________________________
>Do you Yahoo!?
>SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
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>  
>

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Glad I could help :-) !  Of course you don't wash it first.

Does anyone know of any good online sources for **large** quantities of 
1" or 1/2" stuff cheap?
(And, do they do it in cm. in Europe? :-P  )

Heather L

>>Where i live you can't find gingham (I like the 1" for mockups)
>>    
>>
>
>Omigosh!  You're a genius, and for the life of me, I can't think why I
>didn't think of it myself, earlier. <g>  Back to the Joann's from hell, to
>check out 1" gingham!
>
>Pam Dotson
>
>
>
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>
>  
>

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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@austar.net.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need Ideas For This Fabric
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In her portrait Jane Seymour wears a reddish purple velvet.
That's all I can think of off the top of my head.
Elizabeth Walpole
-----Original Message-----
From: Sarah <sarah@elizabethanlady.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Saturday, July 12, 2003 9:18 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Need Ideas For This Fabric


>I bought this gorgeous silk brocade on ebay thinking it looked like 
>this: http://www.elizabethanlady.com/images/i-1.JPG
>
>Instead, I got this: 
>http://www.elizabethanlady.com/images/silkbrocade.jpg
>
>(Not that anything in the auction mentioned the photo was waaaaay off 
>on the color, but that's beside the point)
>
>I'm not a purple person, but I decided to keep it because it sure is 
>pretty, no matter how you look at it.  The only trouble is that I want 
>to use it in a Tudor or Elizabethan gown, but I can't seem to think of 
>any purple being used during that time period.  Does anyone know of any 
>purple being used in clothing during the 16th century?  Sources?  
>Images?  Ideas?
>
>The fact that it's purple will probably not keep me from using it in a 
>costume, but I'm just stumped that I can't actually consciously 
>remember seeing purple being used in clothing in any of the thousands 
>of portraits I've looked at over the years.
>
>Sarah
>
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In a message dated 7/10/2003 9:18:46 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
someone@eskimo.com writes:


> You're a genius, and for the life of me, I can't think why I
> didn't think of it myself, earlier. 

We've been teaching this in flat pattern/draping classes for years.  Gingham, 
of course, also has very clear woven grainlines.  Much better than the old 
couture method of tracing the straight grain, both lengthwise and crosswise, on 
plain muslin with a basting thread.  Good discipline, I suppose, but takes 
forever and you could be using that time to actually be draping/patterning.
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seams - to finish or not to finish
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"Other"
The selvege of the fabric--early 19th c. gown panels are almost always the 
full width of the fabric, with the selvege then also serving as a seam finish.
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bamberg Lining?  Anyone used this before?
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In a message dated 7/11/2003 7:54:35 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
saragrace@earthlink.net writes:


> Bamberg
> linings.  

It is "Bemberg," being a type of rayon.  Rayon linings has traditionally not 
held up well.  They have poor abrasion resistance, but certainly would be 
absorbent.  Unlike polyester linings, which are not absorbent but have good wear 
qualities.  Nylon might be good if you could find it--kind of the best of both 
worlds.  But you would probably have trouble finding it is a range of colors, 
too.
Ann Wass
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From: "Kendra Van Cleave" <kendra@tweedlebop.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT:Pirates of the Caribbean
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This reminds me of when I went to see Kate & Leopold with a (non-costumer)
friend.  At the end of the movie, when Kate has travelled back to the 19th
century, my friend sighs and says to me, "Yeah, but then who'd want to wear
a corset for the rest of her life?"

I said, "Um, me!"

- Kendra
http://demode.tweedlebop.com

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From: "J.A.Urbik" <jaurbik@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seams - to finish or not to finish
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kat@grendal.rain.com wrote:
...snip of jaurbik's post about a pamphlet 


> I've seen any number of redrawings which did not accurately represent
> the original garments at all. (Like seams going at an 85 degree angle
> to where they should go according to the original garment and
> according to experimentation with both forms.) I've also seen things
> like "flat felled" seams labeled as "french seams" (which are totally
> different and certainly not interchangeable.)
> 
> Where is this pamphlet available?
> 
Kat

      I got the pamphlet at pennsic several years ago when I went to a
lecture she gave, but the contact info on the back of the booklet gives
her email adrress as  nikolich@ptdprolog.net, however, I have no
garunttey that that is still current.  It also gives an snail mail
address, in case the email does not. 

Jordana

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope plus period corsets
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Hi, All. Just catching up on all of the posts, so if this has been 
answered, pls disregard. Real hemp (not the stuff you get in hardware 
stores, but the real thing) is very soft and pliable, and doesn't have 
any bits that should stick out and be itchy.  If anyone is looking for 
real hemp rope in a variety of diameters, please send me a note offlist, 
and I can probably help. I order it regularly for my tent ropes as well 
as to make slowmatch for blackpowder weapons, and if I don't have the 
right stuff sitting around, I might be able to get it fairly easily. 
Cheers, Mike T.



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT:Pirates of the Caribbean
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You have a non-costumer friend?

what are you thinking?  ;)


On Saturday, July 12, 2003, at 06:06 PM, Kendra Van Cleave wrote:

> This reminds me of when I went to see Kate & Leopold with a 
> (non-costumer)
> friend.  At the end of the movie, when Kate has travelled back to the 
> 19th
> century, my friend sighs and says to me, "Yeah, but then who'd want to 
> wear
> a corset for the rest of her life?"
>
> I said, "Um, me!"
>
> - Kendra
> http://demode.tweedlebop.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@austar.net.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Six Wives of Henry VIII
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 16:22:00 +1000
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-----Original Message-----
From: Cynthia Abel <brujne@creighton.edu>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Tuesday, July 08, 2003 5:32 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Six Wives of Henry VIII


>Yes, it is.  I have the DVD on its way to me and have had the huge
companion
>book for several months--the UK version--it has just been published here in
>the states.  The book spends a lot more time and space with Henry's first
>two wives; Starkey has spent a lot of research going back to original and
>contemporary sources to bring some new light on especially Catherine of
>Aragon and theorizes a possible different cause of death for Prince Arthur,
>for instance.
>Cindy Abel


I was reading a book a few weeks ago on Tudor Women focussing essentially on
the royal family from Henry VII's mother Margaret Beafort down to Elizabeth
I. When I was discussing the part on Catherine of Aragon's difficulty
producing a live healthy baby with my mum (ex midwife) she commented that it
sounded to her like the woman had a weak cervix and therefore could not hold
the babies to full term. Some of her pregnancies resluted in early
miscarriage & some of them were near full term (e.g. they had one son who
lived for a few days) but without modern technology to assist the premature
babies they ended up dying. Mary was apparently a particularly strong or
lucky baby & being a girl helped (as a general rule female babies survive
slightly more often than males). Amazing to think that something so easily
treated in the modern world resulted in such huge religious problems, just
because she happened to be married to the King of England
Elizabeth Walpole



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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@austar.net.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum - observations
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 15:53:33 +1000
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I find I am much more comfortable pulling my breasts upwards than just
letting them sit where they are when I finish lacing my corset. then again
put on my own corset & it's back lacing with shoulder straps. So when I
reach around the back to tighten the laces my shoulders come up, which pulls
up the whole corset & once I've finished pulling in the laces I need to pull
my corset back down which means my breasts are folded down like someone else
said (sorry I can't recall who) & I need to pull them up to put them back
into a more normal position. I'm a C cup but I can't get the TOAP look with
my corset no matter what I do.  Apparently my neckline is too high *g*
Just my experience I'm sure people in period had different ways of achieving
the look they wanted too.
Elizabeth Walpole
P.S. Sorry this reply is late I've been trying to spend more time sewing &
less time emailing but then I end up spending a week catching up on what I
missed
-----Original Message-----
From: Kirrily Robert <skud@infotrope.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Friday, July 04, 2003 2:17 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at BayNatMuseum - observations


>Sarah wrote:
>> Also, I should add that compressing the bosom is a lot less comfortable
>> than hosting.  It's a more restrictive feeling and even somewhat
>> painful and takes some getting used to.
>
>Actually, I find compressing the breasts inwards to be pretty
>comfortable, compared to hoisting them upwards.  The trick is to push
>them "inwards" towards your torso, just like if you were wearing a
>sturdy sports bra.  Your nipples should stay in the same place (when
>seen from the front) as when you are not wearing the bodice... perhaps a
>*smidgen* higher than where they naturally sit, but not more than about
>an inch higher unless you're particularly saggy.  Not as high as most
>modern bras put them, anyway.
>
>The breast should kind of be squished flat with the nipple in the same
>place, rather than hoisted up or pushed down.  Though if you want
>cleavage *without* TOAP or having your nipples pop out the top of the
>bodice, the trick is to keep your nipples at the same *height* as they
>were originally, but move them *inwards*...  front-lacing bodices help
>with this naturally but with a back or side-back lacing one you'll have
>to reach in and move the puppies around a bit.
>
>The overall tightness of the bodice should be the minimum to keep your
>nipples where you put them, and no tighter.  This overall strategy leads
>to a more "conical" shape to your bodices, and less curvy.
>
>Here's a pic of me in a bodice that fits that way... nipples are about
>3" below the top of the bodice, I think (I'm a DD):
>http://infotrope.net/sca/album//projects/costuming/2001-reddress/katherine4
.jpg
>
>Here's a side view of the same outfit:
>http://infotrope.net/sca/album//projects/costuming/2001-reddress/katherine5
.jpg
>
>K.
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] cutting chiffon and other woodgy fabric (was fitting
	aGFD/cotte)
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 08:31:17 -0400
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Can you then remove  the thin paper, or do you need paper that washes away?  
This sounds like just the thing to cure "the creeps."



Nancy Kiel
nancy_kiel@hotmail.com
Never tease a weasel!
This is very good advice.
For the weasel will not like it
And teasing isn't nice.





>From: Heather Meadows <alice@wonderland.com>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost]  cutting chiffon and other woodgy fabric (was fitting 
>aGFD/cotte)
>Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2003 10:31:56 -0700
>
>I'm a big fan of quilt basting spray.  you can use this (it's like hair 
>spray, but kinder to fabric)
>and set the woodgie fabric onto thin paper and cut them together.  I also 
>use quilt basting
>spray to make underlining go faster for modern garments.
>
>.heather.
>
>
>On Saturday, July 12, 2003, at 08:43 AM, Melanie Schuessler wrote:
>
>>Lynn Downward wrote:
>>>I agree.  The first I worked with silk chiffon (for a 20's beaded slip 
>>>dress) I basted the pattern to the fabric and still had a time with the 
>>>fabric.  I was SO afraid of cutting into this very expensive fabric and 
>>>messing it up.  The basting took a lot of time but it cut better than it 
>>>would have and the dress turned out wonderfully.
>>
>>One thing that really helps when cutting fabric that's trying to crawl off 
>>the table (and out the door) is to get a pair of Gingher micro-serrated 
>>shears.  They're designed just for this, and they have tons of teeny tiny 
>>teeth that grab the fabric and hold it so that they can cut it without it 
>>sliding.  They're amazing.
>>
>>There are several sizes and shapes of them at
>>http://www.gingher.com/products/serrdrsmkrs.htm
>>
>>[standard disclaimer:  just a happy customer]
>>
>>Happy cutting,
>>Melanie Schuessler
>>http://www.faucet.net/costume
>>
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>
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From: "Nancy Kiel" <nancy_kiel@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blackwork shift questions/beading questions
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 09:04:36 -0400
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As I am working on just such a shift, do you happen to remember the 
authors/names of these embroidery books?  The more information, the 
better.....



Nancy Kiel
nancy_kiel@hotmail.com
Never tease a weasel!
This is very good advice.
For the weasel will not like it
And teasing isn't nice.





>From: kat@grendal.rain.com
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blackwork shift questions/beading questions
>Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 08:25:43 -0700
>
>
> > I have a picture of an extant Italian chemise with embroidery around
> > the neck and down the sleeves and body of the chemise.  The embroidery
> > goes all the way around the neckline.  As soon as I can find it, I
> > will post it on my website for you if you would like.  Im sorry, I
> > cant even give you a book to look for right now.  All my books are
> > packed and have left for Kamloops already.
>
>Milia Davenport's Book of Costume has one. There are several
>embroidery books which have pictures of them too.
>

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I would definitely like a copy of this.  Thanks!



Nancy Kiel
nancy_kiel@hotmail.com
Never tease a weasel!
This is very good advice.
For the weasel will not like it
And teasing isn't nice.





>From: Jennifer Potts <jenpotts@shaw.ca>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: h-costume@net.indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] Blackwork shift questions/beading questions
>Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 23:30:37 -0700
>
>Sorry about my addition to this thread being so behind.  Im packing my 
>house to move right now and am VERY behind in my reading.
>
>I have a picture of an extant Italian chemise with embroidery around the 
>neck and down the sleeves and body of the chemise.  The embroidery goes all 
>the way around the neckline.  As soon as I can find it, I will post it on 
>my website for you if you would like.  Im sorry, I cant even give you a 
>book to look for right now.  All my books are packed and have left for 
>Kamloops already.
>
>You can contact me privately if you would like a copy.
>
>Jennifer Potts
>aka Senor Giacyntha Francesca Maria Cocchetti,
>Shire of Ramsgaard, SCA
>
>
>Message: 1
>Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 06:37:23 -0700 (PDT)
>From: Cascio Michael <rosenau5@yahoo.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] blackwork shift questions/beading questions
>To: h-costume@net.indra.com
>Message-ID: <20030617133723.90188.qmail@web12005.mail.yahoo.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
>Hi All,
>    I'm finally caught up on my posts and have a few
>questions.
>    On square neck Elizabethan shifts with the
>blackwork embroidery around the edge of the square
>neck would the embroidery go around the entire edge or
>would it just be a band across the front where it
>would show?  I know Janet Arnold mentions a square
>neck shift somewhere but I don't recall ever seeing a
>picture of it anywhere.  I'm working on a shift with
>the low square neck and blackwork on the cuffs as per
>the Helena Snakenborg, although you can't see her
>shift sleeves underneath that beautifully embroidered
>partlet and sleeves.
>    Second question---One of the beading magazines I
>pick up occasionally has some choker patterns that I
>thought would make nice beaded trims.  The chokers
>were made with a light weight gauge wire but as I want
>to sew these patterns down to a garment edge should I
>use wire and make the choker as per the instructions
>and then sew it onto the velvet?  Since I was going to
>put a band of velvet along the edge of the sleeves and
>hem, like a guard, I could stitch each bead down to
>the velvet and then take it off should I need to clean
>the garment.  And since I'm going to put these on a
>garment should I use flat beads or the round beads the
>pattern suggests?
>     Any help would be most appreciated.
>                                  Cassandra
>
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jul 13 09:34:07 2003
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From: "Genie" <kerowyn@mindspring.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <1cd.d999be1.2c41ffdc@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Redneck fabric stores and men
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 08:33:30 -0500
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Excuse me, but ewhat does this have to do with the subject line??
----- Original Message -----
From: <AnnBWass@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2003 7:20 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Redneck fabric stores and men


> In a message dated 7/10/2003 9:18:46 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> someone@eskimo.com writes:
>
>
> > You're a genius, and for the life of me, I can't think why I
> > didn't think of it myself, earlier.
>
> We've been teaching this in flat pattern/draping classes for years.
Gingham,
> of course, also has very clear woven grainlines.  Much better than the old
> couture method of tracing the straight grain, both lengthwise and
crosswise, on
> plain muslin with a basting thread.  Good discipline, I suppose, but takes
> forever and you could be using that time to actually be
draping/patterning.
> Ann Wass
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bamberg Lining?  Anyone used this before?
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 08:37:15 -0500
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Actually, in last week's sewing column in my local paper they were talking
about a rayon lining called "ambience"(?).  She was recommending it for
lining summer fashions for those who prefer linings.

Genie
----- Original Message -----
From: <AnnBWass@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2003 7:31 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bamberg Lining? Anyone used this before?


> In a message dated 7/11/2003 7:54:35 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> saragrace@earthlink.net writes:
>
>
> > Bamberg
> > linings.
>
> It is "Bemberg," being a type of rayon.  Rayon linings has traditionally
not
> held up well.  They have poor abrasion resistance, but certainly would be
> absorbent.  Unlike polyester linings, which are not absorbent but have
good wear
> qualities.  Nylon might be good if you could find it--kind of the best of
both
> worlds.  But you would probably have trouble finding it is a range of
colors,
> too.
> Ann Wass
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Watching Sunday Morning, they're talking about the latest fashion look.  Not exactly historical, but, interesting.
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From: "Lisa Sinervo" <lisa-list@threadneedlest.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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From: "Nancy Kiel wrote:

> Can you then remove  the thin paper, or do you need paper that washes
away?
> This sounds like just the thing to cure "the creeps."
>
>
Nancy, temporary adhesive spray (for fabric) is like  "post it note type
glue" in a can.  You can spray the pattern with the lightest mist and place
it on the fabric, pick it up and reposition it if you wish, and peel it off
after you have finished cutting.  The pattern is only slightly tacky.  And
you don't need much a little can goes a long long way.

Lisa Sinervo

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jul 13 12:10:41 2003
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need Ideas For This Fabric
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ISTR records of Mary I having gowns of purple (think it's mentioned in
the back sections of QE Unlocked).
Also, I've *seen* actual cut-and-voided velvet (mid-16th c, IIRC) that
was done in gold and purple.
There's also the mulberry clothing in Patterns of Fashion 1560-1620.
Those are about the only examples I can think of, right off the bat.  I
can't think of any pictorial examples, either, though....
--sue

Sarah wrote:
> 
> I bought this gorgeous silk brocade on ebay thinking it looked like
> this: http://www.elizabethanlady.com/images/i-1.JPG
> 
> Instead, I got this:
> http://www.elizabethanlady.com/images/silkbrocade.jpg
> 
> (Not that anything in the auction mentioned the photo was waaaaay off
> on the color, but that's beside the point)
> 
> I'm not a purple person, but I decided to keep it because it sure is
> pretty, no matter how you look at it.  The only trouble is that I want
> to use it in a Tudor or Elizabethan gown, but I can't seem to think of
> any purple being used during that time period.  Does anyone know of any
> purple being used in clothing during the 16th century?  Sources?
> Images?  Ideas?
> 
> The fact that it's purple will probably not keep me from using it in a
> costume, but I'm just stumped that I can't actually consciously
> remember seeing purple being used in clothing in any of the thousands
> of portraits I've looked at over the years.
> 
> Sarah
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] italian hat question
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It reminds me a bit of the pleated tall hats in Patterns of Fashion,
although a bit puffier (which could be materials or artist's
interpretation).
--sue

Elizabeth Young wrote:
> 
> Has anyone seen a hat like this other than in Vecellio?
> http://www.costumes.org/history/broderbund/boo/BOO50281.gif>
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Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 10:23:59 -0600
From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope plus period corsets
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Whalebone (there's apparently some good artificial stuff available) or
reeds/broom straw are, I think, both documentable in the 16th c.  IIRC,
Drea's got some stuff on her website about doing a corset with reed
bents....
--sue

Melanie Schuessler wrote:
> 
 
> Speaking of more-period underpinnings, I've also been toying with the
> idea of a new corset.  Though mine works perfectly well, it's boned with
> steel.  I've thought about bents, but the end product isn't washable, is
> it?  The hemp cord version seems a little curvy for 1575 Elizabethan
> (and no one has come up with any solid evidence for it, as far as I
> know).  Any thoughts?
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From: "Dawn Wood" <dawn@agesofelegance.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need Ideas For This Fabric
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 17:24:44 +0100
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there are sumptuary laws in England during Henry V111 reign to do with
purple as it was extremely expensive, hence it being called royal purple but
can't remember when they were repealed
Dawn
Ages Of Elegance makers of Historical reproduction Clothing, Uniforms and
Bridalwear
 http://www.agesofelegance.co.uk 0113 277 6716



> ISTR records of Mary I having gowns of purple (think it's mentioned in
> the back sections of QE Unlocked).
> Also, I've *seen* actual cut-and-voided velvet (mid-16th c, IIRC) that
> > any purple being used during that time period.  Does anyone know of any
> > purple being used in clothing during the 16th century?  Sources?


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Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 09:47:55 -0700
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Subject: [h-cost] Pirates of the Caribbean
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Well, I just saw Pirates, and I am sure that all of you think that I am 
writing this just so I can droll all over Johnny Depp and how incredibly 
hot he is, but actually, I have a costume question.  The scene after 
Elizabeth goes into the water... and Johnny rips her dress off underwater, 
pretty good trick that one.  and then somebody rips off her corset, I never 
found it that easy, but okay, she is then lying there is a shift and some 
kind of stays.  Does this have any kind of historical significance?  Is 
this undercorset - not a corset garment something that has any significance 
for this century?  And, of course, Johnny Depp is to die for... maryann

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dawn Jacobson <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pirates of the Caribbean
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At 09:47 AM 7/13/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>Well, I just saw Pirates, and I am sure that all of you think that I am 
>writing this just so I can droll all over Johnny Depp and how incredibly 
>hot he is, but actually, I have a costume question.  The scene after 
>Elizabeth goes into the water... and Johnny rips her dress off underwater, 
>pretty good trick that one.  and then somebody rips off her corset, I 
>never found it that easy, but okay, she is then lying there is a shift and 
>some kind of stays.  Does this have any kind of historical 
>significance?  Is this undercorset - not a corset garment something that 
>has any significance for this century?  And, of course, Johnny Depp is to 
>die for... maryann

Not that I know of, but as I'm not heavily researching this period right now...

OTOH, I think all of the costumes (except possibly the military uniforms) 
were simply Disney. The "great costumes" aspect of the movie was ruined for 
me in the first scene, when they showed the back of the young girl 
Elizabeth, and there was a *very* visible zipper up the back of her gown. 
After that, I just settled down to enjoy the movie as the piece of 
eye-candy it was meant to be.

I also was a little disappointed by Johnny Depp's performance; while the 
dialog was extremely cute, I found his mannerisms to be rather irritating 
after a while.

Speaking of good costuming/sewing movies, Turner Classic Movies is running 
a good selection today (for those who have cable in their sewing areas).

Dawn

Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are the costumes we wear every day. 
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jul 13 14:21:38 2003
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Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 11:19:37 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] cutting chiffon and other woodgy fabric (was fitting
	aGFD/cotte)
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you can just peel it off - it's basting spray, it's removable.
I actually  haven't used this with chiffon myself yet, but
if I were, I would probably machine baste the chiffon together while
still attached to the paper (I usually sew chiffon with paper and then
tear the paper off so my machine won't eat it) so that it won't distort
between peeling the paper off and getting the seams stitched.


On Sunday, July 13, 2003, at 05:31 AM, Nancy Kiel wrote:

> Can you then remove  the thin paper, or do you need paper that washes 
> away?  This sounds like just the thing to cure "the creeps."
>
>
>
> Nancy Kiel
> nancy_kiel@hotmail.com
> Never tease a weasel!
> This is very good advice.
> For the weasel will not like it
> And teasing isn't nice.
>
>
>
>
>
>> From: Heather Meadows <alice@wonderland.com>
>> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost]  cutting chiffon and other woodgy fabric (was 
>> fitting aGFD/cotte)
>> Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2003 10:31:56 -0700
>>
>> I'm a big fan of quilt basting spray.  you can use this (it's like 
>> hair spray, but kinder to fabric)
>> and set the woodgie fabric onto thin paper and cut them together.  I 
>> also use quilt basting
>> spray to make underlining go faster for modern garments.
>>
>> .heather.
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, July 12, 2003, at 08:43 AM, Melanie Schuessler wrote:
>>
>>> Lynn Downward wrote:
>>>> I agree.  The first I worked with silk chiffon (for a 20's beaded 
>>>> slip dress) I basted the pattern to the fabric and still had a time 
>>>> with the fabric.  I was SO afraid of cutting into this very 
>>>> expensive fabric and messing it up.  The basting took a lot of time 
>>>> but it cut better than it would have and the dress turned out 
>>>> wonderfully.
>>>
>>> One thing that really helps when cutting fabric that's trying to 
>>> crawl off the table (and out the door) is to get a pair of Gingher 
>>> micro-serrated shears.  They're designed just for this, and they 
>>> have tons of teeny tiny teeth that grab the fabric and hold it so 
>>> that they can cut it without it sliding.  They're amazing.
>>>
>>> There are several sizes and shapes of them at
>>> http://www.gingher.com/products/serrdrsmkrs.htm
>>>
>>> [standard disclaimer:  just a happy customer]
>>>
>>> Happy cutting,
>>> Melanie Schuessler
>>> http://www.faucet.net/costume
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jul 13 14:23:19 2003
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Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 11:21:24 -0700
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Subject: Re: [h-cost]  cutting chiffon and other woodgy fabric (was fitting a
	GFD/cotte)
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> I'm a big fan of quilt basting spray.  you can use this (it's like
> hair spray, but kinder to fabric) and set the woodgie fabric onto thin
> paper and cut them together.  I also use quilt basting spray to make
> underlining go faster for modern garments.

This sound wonderful! Could you use it to cut out several layers of 
fabric as well? (I always hate it that the 
chiffon/charmeuse/woodgyfabricofyourexperience makes it so that you 
have to cut out each layer separately. If they were just staying 
together while they were cut, it would be soooooo much easier!)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jul 13 14:23:28 2003
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From: kat@grendal.rain.com
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 11:21:24 -0700
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent rope plus period corsets
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> Whalebone (there's apparently some good artificial stuff available) or
> reeds/broom straw are, I think, both documentable in the 16th c. 
> IIRC, Drea's got some stuff on her website about doing a corset with
> reed bents.... --sue

Do you have any documentation to whalebone's use in corsets in the 
early 16th C? (Especially 1525-1550.) 

I have all sorts of documentation for its use in late 16th C and for 
other things starting in the 12th C, but I'm having a devil of a time 
finding it for the early 16th C. (Inventories of H8 don't specify 
what is in the bodies, nor do most of the other inventories from that 
time period.) Each time I think I have something tracked down it is 
for 1570 or later, mostly. (I can find reed bent and pasted linen, 
but not whalebone.)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jul 13 15:42:27 2003
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From: "Betsy Marshall" <betsy@softwareinnovation.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Need Ideas For This Fabric
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 14:40:00 -0500
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It looks to me- amateur that I am- like a fabric that would be the
ostentatious sleeve lining and or matching forepart- against a more
solid and sober backdrop it would really sparkle! Just my .02 lira.
Betsy

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Sarah
Sent: Friday, July 11, 2003 6:18 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Need Ideas For This Fabric

I bought this gorgeous silk brocade on ebay thinking it looked like 
this: http://www.elizabethanlady.com/images/i-1.JPG

Instead, I got this: 
http://www.elizabethanlady.com/images/silkbrocade.jpg

(Not that anything in the auction mentioned the photo was waaaaay off 
on the color, but that's beside the point)

I'm not a purple person, but I decided to keep it because it sure is 
pretty, no matter how you look at it.  The only trouble is that I want 
to use it in a Tudor or Elizabethan gown, but I can't seem to think of 
any purple being used during that time period.  Does anyone know of any 
purple being used in clothing during the 16th century?  Sources?  
Images?  Ideas?

The fact that it's purple will probably not keep me from using it in a 
costume, but I'm just stumped that I can't actually consciously 
remember seeing purple being used in clothing in any of the thousands 
of portraits I've looked at over the years.

Sarah

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jul 13 16:30:43 2003
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Lynne Connolly <lynneconnolly@ntlworld.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] bugle beads
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Has the design of bugle beads changed over the centuries? Someone on the 
Regency list has found a description of them as black glass and oblong. So 
haven't they always been long and tubular?


Lynne Connolly, GSOLFOT
Award winning Historical Romance author.
The Richard and Rose books from <http://www.novelbooksinc.com/>Novelbooks Inc.
YORKSHIRE, DEVONSHIRE and now VENICE
VANESSA from <http://www.awe-struck.net/>Awe-Struck books
http://www.geocities.com/lynne_connolly2001/  

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Subject: [h-cost] Theater Costumers survey, please help out!
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Gentle List - Can those of you who have any experience in theatrical costume
please complete the survey below and return to Christine at her email below?
This is for an article in a theatrical magazine, I believe the name is
something like Stage Tech (I can't find my old email from her, but I spoke
to her at length on the phone)

+++++++++++++++++++++
Many thanks for your interest. Here is a quick quiz, shouldn't take you long
at all. Please note, it's done  in a lighthearted manner and still manages
to address some serious professional issues. It's based in part on the
interviews I've done with
costumers. Please star or put your answers in bold when you return the
survey. It would be great if you could copy/let others know about the survey
as well. Please return to: csparta@aol.com as soon as you can.

Best,

Christine Sparta


1) What % of the time are you stressed about your job as a costumer?

a) less than 10%--My job is a breeze most of the time.

b) 30-40%--Yes, work gets stressful but it's nothing I can't handle.

c) 50%-75%--Can I have a cup of coffee with a side order of stress?

d) 90% -100%--Yikes, stress really consumes me.


2) My biggest stressors are:
   (You can indicate more than one)

a) Diva behavior from actors, directors and others
b) Too many projects at once--I can't say no.
c) Unrealistic expectations from directors/other theater staff
d) Not enough staff to support the project
e) Other

3) I release stress by:

a) sewing or other handicraft
b) exercise
c) taking a trip
d) yelling at everyone around me
e) other

4) I find (fill in the blank with an activity)  helpful to relax because:

a) it takes my mind off my work
b) it gives me a feeling of artistic accomplishment without the stress of
working with others
c) it's just a fun diversion
d) it beats throwing darts at someone's picture
e) other

5) If I could choose my profession again, I'd still be a costumer:

a) yes
b) no
c) unsure--Could I outfit Brad Pitt?

6) The most rewarding thing about my work is:

a) knowing I did a great job
b) hearing the audience applause and knowing I contributed to that
c) the acknowledgment of my crew
d) it makes my mother happy
e) other

7) If I knew then what I know know I'd...

Please fill in the blank

8) Preventing costumer burnout is:

a) a matter of pacing yourself, like you're doing a dance
b) easy if you just choosing projects you're passionate about and devoting
yourself to them
c) possible if you have some artistic projects outside of your work that
help
you grow as a professional
d) impossible in this fast-paced unpredictable business
e) other

9) Generally, what time of the year is most stressful for you?


a) winter
b) summer
c)spring
d) fall
e) other

10) Anything you would like to add that has helped you deal with stress as a
costumer.

+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design

"Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:
be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,
and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:
be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
W. Shakespeare

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] bugle beads
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Lynne Connolly wrote:
> 
> Has the design of bugle beads changed over the centuries? Someone on the 
> Regency list has found a description of them as black glass and oblong. 
> So haven't they always been long and tubular?

There's a green satin sleeve from c. 1600 in the V&A with what we think 
of as bugle beads (also green) on it.  It's figure 443 in _Queen Eliz 
Ward Unlock'd_.  There's also a droolsome two-page color close-up in 
_Fashion in Detail From the 17th and 18th Centuries_ as a background to 
the title page for the "Stitching, Seams, Quilting & Cording" section 
and a more modest photo and description on pp. 28-29.

Melanie Schuessler
http://www.faucet.net/costume

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Subject: [h-cost] Pirates Costume Question
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OK, I saw PotC last night.  I had some major beefs but tried to look at it 
through the eyes of a 14 year old.  Then it was great!  However, I stand by 
my earlier statement... Johnny rocks!

So now I have a costume question.   Towards the end of the movie, Elizabeth 
is wearing just a shift of sorts (I'm ignoring the bra line that I saw when 
she was walking onto the deserted island...).  The interesting thing was 
this slit on each arm that started about three inches below the shoulder.  
This ran somewhere to mid forearm length.  It was laced closed.

I'm not sure that I'm explainng this very well...

Does anyone remember this detail?  Is there historical accuracy to this?  I 
can't really figure out the point of it.  I kept thinking about and just 
couldn't make any sense it out.

Thanks!

:) jessica

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Just testing....Emails have suspiciously dwindled to almost nothing....
--maire
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Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 19:35:01 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost]  cutting chiffon and other woodgy fabric (was fitting a
	GFD/cotte)
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I probably wouldn't do that, but you could always cut out some samples 
and see if they
stayed true!


On Sunday, July 13, 2003, at 11:21 AM, kat@grendal.rain.com wrote:

>
>> I'm a big fan of quilt basting spray.  you can use this (it's like
>> hair spray, but kinder to fabric) and set the woodgie fabric onto thin
>> paper and cut them together.  I also use quilt basting spray to make
>> underlining go faster for modern garments.
>
> This sound wonderful! Could you use it to cut out several layers of
> fabric as well? (I always hate it that the
> chiffon/charmeuse/woodgyfabricofyourexperience makes it so that you
> have to cut out each layer separately. If they were just staying
> together while they were cut, it would be soooooo much easier!)
>
> Kat
> <kat@redtrollforge.com>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need Ideas For This Fabric
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 23:27:59 -0400
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I believe those sumptuary laws didn't limit the color purple.... it limited
purple colored silk. Such as:

None shall wear . . .cloth of gold or silver, or silk of purple color. . .
except . . .Earls, all above that rank, and Knights of the King (and then
only in their mantles).

None shall wear . . .cloth of gold or silver, or silk of purple color. . .
except . . .Countesses and all above that rank. (Viscountesses may wear it
in their kirtles)

also

None shall wear in his apparel:
            Any silk of the color of purple, cloth of gold tissued, nor fur
of sables, but only the King, Queen, King's mother, children, brethren, and
sisters, uncles and aunts; and except dukes, marquises, and earls, who may
wear the same in doublets, jerkins, linings of cloaks, gowns, and hose; and
those of the Garter, purple in mantles only.


----- Original Message -----
From: "Dawn Wood" <dawn@agesofelegance.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2003 12:24 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need Ideas For This Fabric


> there are sumptuary laws in England during Henry V111 reign to do with
> purple as it was extremely expensive, hence it being called royal purple
but
> can't remember when they were repealed
> Dawn
> Ages Of Elegance makers of Historical reproduction Clothing, Uniforms and
> Bridalwear
>  http://www.agesofelegance.co.uk 0113 277 6716
>
>
>
> > ISTR records of Mary I having gowns of purple (think it's mentioned in
> > the back sections of QE Unlocked).
> > Also, I've *seen* actual cut-and-voided velvet (mid-16th c, IIRC) that
> > > any purple being used during that time period.  Does anyone know of
any
> > > purple being used in clothing during the 16th century?  Sources?
>
>
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>

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I just saw the film. That shift was so off the wall. I noticed the bra line 
too. Glad to know I wasn't hallucinating.


What about the "Three Musketeers" cape & hat Orlando Bloom was wearing at the 
end? Did he get that from his character's father's sea chest?

Well, Disney never was one for historical accuracy in costuming.

KAthy
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Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 22:01:26 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pirates Costume Question
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>So now I have a costume question.   Towards the end of the movie, 
>Elizabeth is wearing just a shift of sorts (I'm ignoring the bra line that 
>I saw when she was walking onto the deserted island...).  The interesting 
>thing was this slit on each arm that started about three inches below the 
>shoulder.
>This ran somewhere to mid forearm length.  It was laced closed.
>
>I'm not sure that I'm explainng this very well...
>
>Does anyone remember this detail?

The website with the actual costumes, that somebody posted a while ago (was 
that this list?) shows this clearly.  Don't know if it's period or not, buy 
my uneducated guess is not, as that shift's sleeves are too long for the 
sleeves of dresses - they'd show.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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On Friday 11 July 2003 10:23 am, LoreleiMorte@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 7/11/2003 9:04:53 AM Central Standard Time,
>
> bkessinger@ureach.com writes:
> > Oooh! That book is on my wishlist for my birthday. Thanks!
>
> Does anybody find that they have no willpower for books on wishlists? I
> just find that anything I try to put on my "I'll get it on my <insert gift
> getting day>!" ends up being gotten about 5 seconds later due to the whole
> Book Instant Gratification Need? Or am I just a big spoiled baby?

I've done that often enough to sympathize.  :-)

There is only one solution:  Only put books on a wishlist that are literally 
*too* expensive for you to buy.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
 
"You live and learn, or you don't live long."
 Robert Heinlein

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On Friday 11 July 2003 12:33 pm, kat@grendal.rain.com wrote:
[text cut here]

> For early periods the best books are in archeology. _Textiles in
> Archeology_ by John Peter Wild is a good place to start. Margrethe
> Hald's _Ancient Textiles from Bogs and Burials_ is also good. I don't
> know if you can get it but "An 11th C shirt from Viborg Sonderso,
> Denmark" by Mytte Fentz in _Archaeological Textile in Northern Europe-
> Report from the 4th NESAT Symposium_ (Ed. by Lise Bender Jorgensen
> and Elizabeth Muncksgaard) (pages 83-92) is another good one.

Oxbow Books (www.oxbowbooks.com is the URL, I think) is selling the 4th NESAT 
proceedings right now for $68.50 USD.  The British branch may also be selling 
it--I don't know what the price in pounds is.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
 
"You live and learn, or you don't live long."
 Robert Heinlein

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Thanks for the tip Cathy!

They also have NESAT 5, and they're both around 30 pounds.

I'm really glad we're not visiting Oxford this visit. My husband is even
more of a book-fiend than me, and I think we'd be sleeping in the car for
the rest of the trip, having spent our 3.5 week accommodation budget at
Oxbow. We'd probably be going hungry too!

Glenda.

> Oxbow Books (www.oxbowbooks.com is the URL, I think) is selling the 4th
NESAT
> proceedings right now for $68.50 USD.  The British branch may also be
selling
> it--I don't know what the price in pounds is.
>
>
> -- 
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

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 --- jessica stier <jessicastier@hotmail.com> wrote: > 
> she was walking onto the deserted island...).  The interesting thing was 
> this slit on each arm that started about three inches below the shoulder.  
> This ran somewhere to mid forearm length.  It was laced closed.
> 
> I'm not sure that I'm explainng this very well...
> 
> Does anyone remember this detail?  Is there historical accuracy to this?  I 
> can't really figure out the point of it. 

Whioch year is it supposed to be, or even which century? However, in all my
17th and early 18th. c. studies I have never ever ever ever come across such a
thing. Costume designer freedom of choice, my guess.

Nicole

=====
Men Die. Cattle Die. Word-Fame Lives Forever.   ~ Old Norse Aphorism

Email: nicole@kipar.org
URL: http://www.kipar.org

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-----Original Message-----
From: Lynne Connolly <lynneconnolly@ntlworld.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Tuesday, July 08, 2003 5:27 AM
Subject: Re: Modern corset (was Re: [h-cost] Extant 16th corset at
BayNatMuseum - observations


>At 11:52 07/07/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>>I would think a regency corset would give the most modern shape,
>>or could be adapted to, since it's the lift & separate style that most
>>modern bras aim for.
>
>It was rumoured that the women in "Pride and Prejudice" used Wonderbras to
>get the shape!
>
>Lynne Connolly, GSOLFOT


Actually I heard that the woman who played Elizabeth Bennett (Jennifer Erle)
was strapped in
to reduce her bust size as it was thought she did not fit the fashionable
Regency silhouette.
Then again Gwyneth Paltrow could have used a wonder bra in the film Emma in
half the dresses looked awful because she was just too thin to fill them in
the appropriate places
Elizabeth Walpole


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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@austar.net.au>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] *English* Working class
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-----Original Message-----
From: Kendra Van Cleave <kendra@tweedlebop.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Saturday, July 05, 2003 4:26 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] *English* Working class
>I first started my Elizabethan costuming based on the Winter/Savoy book,
>which as we all know cuts LOTS of corners.  So to me, a "partlet" was a
>high-necked shift that was open down the center front.  The issue here is
>that if one wants to wear one's "partlet" (in the above definition -- hence
>the quotes) open, you basically have nothing between you and your corset or
>bodice in front.
>
>Once I discovered the whole partlet-as-a-garment-separate-from-the-shift,
it
>made sense to me.  You'd have your low-necked shift between you and your
>corset/bodice, and then the partlet on top of that (which could be worn
open
>or closed).  The thing that puzzled me (and granted, I'm haven't read as
>much as I should on this period) is that I know in the period of Mary I, a
>partlet was an outer garment (meaning worn over the bodice).
>
>So -- was there a change where partlets (separate from shifts) began to be
>worn under the bodice?  Or is the whole partlet thing (in Elizabeth's era)
>just a big costumer's myth?
>
>- Kendra
>

Yes In earlier 16th century portraits you can see many pictures of women
wearing lined partlets in relatively heavy materials, Mary I wears this
style of partlet in all but 1 or 2 of her portraits.
In some portraits of this era you can also see what could be either a high
necked smock or a partlet made of similar materials to the smock. When you
think about the fact that part of a smock's purpose was to protect the
clothing from the wearer i.e. keep sweat & body oils etc away from the
pretty silks etc. wearing something like that beneath a partlet makes sense.
Later in the Century you begin to see something which could not feasibly be
either
a high necked smock or a separate garment worn beneath the neckline of the
bodice worn on its own without an over partlet covering it.
I've theorised that women who wanted to wear an over partlet (Mary I style)
may have wanted to remove it as the day proceeded (e.g. wear it in the
morning when it's cold but once the day warms up remove it) but did not want
to show their high necked smock. It's not such a huge leap to wearing a
smock with a low neckline & a partlet made of  the same sort of easily
laundered fabrics as a smock, underneath the over partlet. Later it became
fashionable to wear a lightweight partlet on its own. I suspect the over
partlets would still have been used for warmth but because they were no
longer fashionable they don't appear in portraits.
Just wild theorising from someone who has managed to complete only one 16th
century English gown & no partlets at all (though that is on my to do list)
Elizabeth Walpole


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] sharp object on airplanes: hatpins
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cynthia J Ley" <cley@juno.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2003 2:05 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sharp object on airplanes: hatpins


> My mother and grandmother both told me that they found hat pins very
> useful items in their youth for warding off unwanted advances, so not as
> anecdotal as you might think.
>
> As an aside, a fork can be a singularly useful tool too, in the right
> circumstances.
>
My great great aunt by all accounts used to carry a large quantity of
pennies
in her handbag for similar reasons - no one could accuse her of carrying a
concealed weapon, but by the same token, you wouldn't want to get whomped
by that bag.

Claire

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I have been reading all the posts and as Johnny Depp fan (and swashbuckler
movie fan) I am ready to go see the film. But would somebody please email me
privately with the answer to this question: Is it appropriate for children?
I know a couple of parents who are confused about this, because it's
Disney's first PG-13 movie but all the little kids want to see it. Now that
I've read about corsets being ripped off, and of course about skeletal
undead pirates, I can't imagine this being appropriate for Disney's usual
crowd. But none of the reviews I've read have mentioned it. So what do you
think is the lower age limit? Fourteen? Ten? Again, off-list is fine.

Gail Finke

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> My great great aunt by all accounts used to carry a large quantity 
> of pennies in her handbag for similar reasons - no one could accuse her
of 
> carrying a concealed weapon, but by the same token, you wouldn't want
to get 
> whomped by that bag.
> 
> Claire

Oh, very good! I'll bet she had quite the arm too, for carrying all that.

The fork story--a friend has a very attractive and underage daughter who
was the unfortunate recipient of unwanted advances of a much older guy
and who would not take "No" for an answer. I taught her the value of
forks. Next time he tried something was at a feast--she pinned his hand
to the table with her fork, and said, "Now that I have your attention,
the answer is NO."

Her mother tells me that he's been a perfect gentleman ever since.

Obligatory costume content--does anyone know of anyone who makes medieval
style straight pins?  Does anyone have websites of persons who make
costume accessories?

Arlys



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> Has the design of bugle beads changed over the centuries? Someone on
> the Regency list has found a description of them as black glass and
> oblong. So haven't they always been long and tubular?

I don't think it's a bugle bead unless it is long and tubular. There 
is a photograph of one in Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion 1560-
1620. I think there is a color one of it in Historical Fashion in 
Detail 17th and 18th C. At any rate, that one is green and looks long 
and tubular.

However, there was a change in the way glass beads were made during 
the 19th C. It did change somewhat how they looked.

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] 
	medieval straight pins (was:  sharp object on airplanes: hatpins)
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> Obligatory costume content--does anyone know of anyone who makes medieval
> style straight pins?  Does anyone have websites of persons who make
> costume accessories?

I have a friend who makes brass straight pins in several sizes.  He's a 
  fiend for research, so I imagine he could provide documentation as 
well.  Let me know if you'd like his contact information.

Melanie Schuessler
http://www.faucet.net/costume

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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: pirates of the caribbean
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 12:22:00 -0400
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Gail,

I took my 11 y.o. daughter and she loved the film.  She wants to see it
again.  I didn't find anything inappropriate.

I think very young children might be scared by the ghosts.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] sharp object on airplanes: hatpins
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 16:32:55 +0000
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Historic Enterprises has one style - //www.historicenterprises.com/

Eirene
<snip>
> 
> Obligatory costume content--does anyone know of anyone who makes medieval
> style straight pins?  Does anyone have websites of persons who make
> costume accessories?
> 
> Arlys
> 
> 
> 
> ________________________________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul 14 13:48:01 2003
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Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 12:48:43 -0500
From: jlkelley <jlkelley@ix.netcom.com>
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Ok I know I am late getting into this conversation but I wanted to add
my two cents worth.

I was under the impression that her father had ordered her a new dress
without realizing that she had filled out since then so in order to
wear the dress she had to be corseted with in an inch of her life to
fit into it . . . therefor she was complaining that it was to tightly
laced

  

-- 
Best regards,
 jlkelley                          mailto:jlkelley@ix.netcom.com

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Subject: [h-cost] 
	please help with places to visit in France this summer/fall
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Hi!
I have been lurking on the list for quite a long while and have a question 
for those knowledgeable of France. I will be in Nice, Arles, Avignon, Lyon, 
Paris, and parts of the Loire valley from the end of August thru the middle 
of September (a gift from my mother-in-law!). I would like to see as many 
costume-related and fabric-oriented sites as time permits. Can you 
recommend places to add to a "must-see" list?

Thanks so much for your help with this, and for the wonderful information I 
have gotten from you all over the years.
Lucy
Raleigh, NC, USA

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At 08:30 14/07/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>However, there was a change in the way glass beads were made during
>the 19th C. It did change somewhat how they looked.

Thank you!


Lynne Connolly, GSOLFOT
Award winning Historical Romance author.
The Richard and Rose books from <http://www.novelbooksinc.com/>Novelbooks Inc.
YORKSHIRE, DEVONSHIRE and now VENICE
VANESSA from <http://www.awe-struck.net/>Awe-Struck books
http://www.geocities.com/lynne_connolly2001/  

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I will be in Nice, Arles, Avignon, Lyon, 
Paris, and parts of the Loire valley from the end of August thru the middle 
of September (a gift from my mother-in-law!). I would like to see as many 
costume-related and fabric-oriented sites as time permits. Can you 
recommend places to add to a "must-see" list?>>

Lyon - The Musee de Tissue Historique is there and from what I've heard, is a must-see.  Oooo, I'm so jealous - have a wonderful time!

Colleen

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] please help with places to visit in France
	thissummer/fall
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Colleen McDonald" <Colleen.McDonald@mackie.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2003 2:43 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] please help with places to visit in France
thissummer/fall


> I will be in Nice, Arles, Avignon, Lyon,
> Paris, and parts of the Loire valley from the end of August thru the
middle
> of September (a gift from my mother-in-law!). I would like to see as many
> costume-related and fabric-oriented sites as time permits. Can you
> recommend places to add to a "must-see" list?>>


Oooh, the Chateau de Chambord is in the Loire Valley. And take pictures for
me please!!

Dianne

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: pirates of the caribbean
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On Mon, 14 Jul 2003, Gail & Scott Finke wrote:

> I have been reading all the posts and as Johnny Depp fan (and
> swashbuckler movie fan) I am ready to go see the film. But would
> somebody please email me privately with the answer to this question:
> Is it appropriate for children? I know a couple of parents who are
> confused about this, because it's Disney's first PG-13 movie but all
> the little kids want to see it. Now that I've read about corsets being
> ripped off, and of course about skeletal undead pirates, I can't
> imagine this being appropriate for Disney's usual crowd. But none of
> the reviews I've read have mentioned it.

This site should give you enough information to make a decision
appropriate for your family. I use it a lot, and I like it because it
gives me a lot of detail as well as just recommendations:

http://www.filmvalues.com

I see they don't have Pirates up yet, but I expect it won't take long.

Here's a similar site, though I don't like their rating system as well,
and they have a lot of pop-up ads. But they do have their Pirates review
up now:

http://www.kids-in-mind.com


--Robin


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Subject: [h-cost] Doublets-n-kirtles-n-skirts, oh my!
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Just pondering....

I'm a form believer in the Whole Gown vs the skirt'n'bodice theory in 'bethan 
garment construction. I always sew my bodices to my skirts...makes it way 
easier and hangs better in my personal experience. Now, doublets..... my 
pondering is (for doublets that match the skirt)....doublet over matching kirtle (note 
I said kirtle, not skirt)OR skirt and doublet sewn as one? PoF seems to say 
sewn-as-one. 

-Sarra Wryght
Elizabethan Dress Journals: http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/index.html
Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
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At 13:52 11-07-03 -0400, you wrote:
>Drea wrote:
> > Ditto Buffy...though, I've found that Austen flicks are the best for
> > stitching, because you don't need to keep your eyes fixed on the movie to
> > follow the plot.
>
>Entirely agreed.  Though if you'd watched Buffy through and through like
>I have (there are repeats every night, and I own a good chunk of the
>DVDs) you wouldn't have to watch it to follow the plot either :)  Same
>goes for Blackadder and Red Dwarf, the entirety of which I have on
>video.

My preference is B movies.  Very cheap to rent/buy, and usually little to 
no true plot to follow.

Jennifer 

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Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 17:40:42 -0400 (EDT)
From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Doublets-n-kirtles-n-skirts, oh my!
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There's two types of garments that can look like a doublet & skirt: the a
high-bodied gown, with a bodice that fastens up to the neck, attached
skirt, and tabs at the waist...or a separate doublet bodice, worn over
another gown/kirtle.

The former, obviously, would have bodice and skirt attached.  A separate
doublet w/ petticoat (sans bodies) shows up in 1590s records, and doublets
for women show up in the mid 70s...but I've found no hard data indicating
whether they were worn over petticoats/kirtles with or sans bodies.
Probably both.

Drea
 On Mon, 14 Jul 2003 LoreleiMorte@aol.com wrote:

> Just pondering....
>
> I'm a form believer in the Whole Gown vs the skirt'n'bodice theory in 'bethan
> garment construction. I always sew my bodices to my skirts...makes it way
> easier and hangs better in my personal experience. Now, doublets..... my
> pondering is (for doublets that match the skirt)....doublet over
matching kirtle (note
> I said kirtle, not skirt)OR skirt and doublet sewn as one? PoF seems to say
> sewn-as-one.
>
> -Sarra Wryght
> Elizabethan Dress Journals: http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/index.html
> Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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>Now that
>I've read about corsets being ripped off,

The actress is wearing an opaque shift both when she faints and has her 
corset cut off and when the pirate decides to rip off her corset after 
taking the plum dress back.  Modern medical advice warns against cutting 
off corsets in the case of fainting, as this can cause serious 
complications.  Modern costumers will wonder how a real corset can be 
ripped off at all.

>  and of course about skeletal
>undead pirates,

Slightly scary, but not so bad for a ten-year-old.  I babysit for a 
four-year-old, and she'd have to wait for the video, so it could be 
explained to her.  I also babysit for a five-year-old, and she might be 
able to cope.

>I can't imagine this being appropriate for Disney's usual
>crowd. But none of the reviews I've read have mentioned it. So what do you
>think is the lower age limit? Fourteen? Ten? Again, off-list is fine.

I don't remember any real indecency in the whole film.  My fifteen-year-old 
is taking me to see it (again for me, first time for her) for my birthday.





        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT:Pirates of the Caribbean
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Heather Meadows" <alice@wonderland.com>

> You have a non-costumer friend?
>
> what are you thinking?  ;)

I don't know what she's thinking, but I've found that my own non costumer
friends help me stay sane.

If I had only costumer friends, my house would be filled to the roof with
fabric and patterns and books and sketches and notions and old hats and old
dresses and old shoes and weird shirts and bizarre pants and... well... you
get the idea :-)
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Subject: [h-cost] Movie costume question
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Brotherhood of the Wolf

Can anyone direct me to websites of folks who have tried to make costumes
from this movie AND to actual costumes from the movie please.

Thank you.

Sincerely,
Chiara

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One thing just occured to me...

What about starch? Or something that would have a similar result?

I think I remember seeing it or hearing about it somewhere, to help stiffen
slippery fabrics and make them more manageable...

Or maybe I'm just dreaming?
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Doublets-n-kirtles-n-skirts, oh my!
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In a message dated 7/14/2003 4:41:31 PM Central Standard Time, 
drea@nospam writes:

> There's two types of garments that can look like a doublet &skirt: the a
> high-bodied gown, with a bodice that fastens up to the neck, attached
> skirt, and tabs at the waist...or a separate doublet bodice, worn over
> another gown/kirtle.
> 
> The former, obviously, would have bodice and skirt attached.  A separate
> doublet w/ petticoat (sans bodies) shows up in 1590s records, and doublets
> for women show up in the mid 70s...but I've found no hard data indicating
> whether they were worn over petticoats/kirtles with or sans bodies.
> Probably both.
> 

Cool. So, it's pretty much a case of "whatever blows my hair back", eh? Make 
a high bodied gown or a doublet over a kirtle. 

-Sarra Wryght
Elizabethan Dress Journals: http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/index.html
Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
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Well, for paintings and portraits, don't miss the Louvre and Versailles.
It's not very original, but you can't go to Paris and not go there...

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "LPRingland" <lucy_ringland@ncsu.edu>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2003 2:17 PM
Subject: [h-cost] please help with places to visit in France this
summer/fall


> Hi!
> I have been lurking on the list for quite a long while and have a question
> for those knowledgeable of France. I will be in Nice, Arles, Avignon,
Lyon,
> Paris, and parts of the Loire valley from the end of August thru the
middle
> of September (a gift from my mother-in-law!). I would like to see as many
> costume-related and fabric-oriented sites as time permits. Can you
> recommend places to add to a "must-see" list?
>
> Thanks so much for your help with this, and for the wonderful information
I
> have gotten from you all over the years.
> Lucy
> Raleigh, NC, USA
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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References: <670A81F9-B4D0-11D7-8616-00039369A97A@wonderland.com>
	<Law8-OE51Xv6ZWY6r6T00001077@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT:Pirates of the Caribbean
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 19:01:00 -0400
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Audrey,

Or you could have friends like mine... I have fashion and costume books in
three rooms, and two closets with fans, masks, and vintage evening gowns.
Then in my office... has a path between the fashion publications, to get to
my desk, and all walls are covered with postcards and posters of past
fashions.  Its enough to turn any of my person costuming crazy. There
something for everyone.  My friends all have different interests in
costuming.

Funny... friends of my kids that come over here, love my fan collection.
They love to learn to pop my fans.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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	Mon, 14 Jul 2003 16:27:39 PDT
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 16:27:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Brainard <marcocaprioli@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seams - to finish or not to finish
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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hey, what about waxed seams? I'm dying to do THAT for an A&S
(subtext=S&M) entry. Sue will probably die laughing when Caryn and
Kortland see that.

Jeff


--- Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu> wrote:
> At 8:24 PM -0500 7/10/03, chiara wrote:
> >Then I guess the question then I have is this:
> >
> >What is the seam finish and dates with them do we have?
> >
> >hand pressed:
> >hand pressed and whipped stitched:
> >frenched:
> >flat felled:
> >mock flat felled:
> >pinked:
> >hemmed:
> >sergred:
> >Others:
> >
> >Chiara
> 
> I collated together information on seam types, including "finishes" 
> up through the medieval period in an article entitled "Archaeological
> 
> Sewing".  There's a copy of the text only at 
> <http://www.virtue.to/guest_authors/archaeological_sewing.html> -- I 
> put a copy with the figures in the files section of the authentic-SCA
> 
> yahoo-groups list, but now that yahoo changed the location of 
> graphics files, the figure links won't work so it isn't much better 
> than the plain text version.  One of these days when I have my own 
> web site I'll make the full version available again.
> 
> Heather
> -- 
> *****
> Heather Rose Jones
> hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
> *****
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From: Jeff Brainard <marcocaprioli@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT:Pirates of the Caribbean-oooh Johnny!
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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>  --- "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net> wrote: > I don't
> follow
> movies much, but since I saw Chocolate with Johnny Dep I
> > swore I would see him in everything he makes.  I saw the trailers
> for POTC
> > and, well...drooled a little.  I think he is hot, hot, hot.  I'd
> jump his
> > bones any day!  Sorry Bjarne, Sorry Jeff!  :}



Don't sweat it. That already happened this weekend and you are hearing
from one happy boy. I'll have to go see the film. Still trying to
wrangle the illusive "decent job", so send me a spare thought.


Jeff

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From: Jeff Brainard <marcocaprioli@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Another farthingale image was - Re: [h-cost] Making/finding bent
	rope
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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better yet, what"s the tailor doing with that goat?

J.


--- Kate M Bunting <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> wrote:
> In fact, the verse claims that it's a distinctively English style of
> cap!
> 
> 
> Kate Bunting
> Library, University of Derby
> 
> >>> mooncat@in-tch.com 07/11/03 11:54am >>>
> Interesting that they say she's French, when the label says
> "L'Angloyse." (English?)
> Or is it just the image that's French? <g>
> It certainly is an intriguely odd hat style, though....and I'm trying
> to
> figure out what that knotted piece of fabric is behind her (veil?)
> Thanks for sharing!
> --sue
> 
> Lisa Sinervo wrote:
> > 
> > Here's another image I recently ran across ........
> > http://www.threadneedlest.com/Bulletinboard.htm  French 1567
> according to
> > Dress and Undress, Ahistory of Women's Underware.  Elizabeth Ewing
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
> 
>
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From: Jeff Brainard <marcocaprioli@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seams - to finish or not to finish
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ever hear of Pavlov's dogs?

J.


--- LoreleiMorte@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 7/11/2003 9:35:14 AM Central Standard Time, 
> drea@nospam writes:
> 
> > No, sister, you're a member of the Ancient and Sacred Order of
> > Bibliophiles. :)  There is nothing as exhilarating as recieving a
> rare
> > costume book in the mail and then spending a good 15 minutes
> leaping
> > about the living room with it clutched to your chest, crowing
> "Mine!
> > It's all Mine!"
> > 
> 
> It's freakin' Xmas when ya see that beautiful, glorious, big brown
> truck 
> comin' down the street.....or the white one with the Holy Words "Fed
> Ex".... or 
> you see your beloved mail guy, with the hint of manilla peeking forth
> from his 
> bag, or with, better yet, the Sign-o-Thingy..... 
> 
> I love the brown truck, with it's glossy chocolate exterior...it
> always comes 
> between 5 and 6.....
> 
> Here, some people might not know this link: <A
> HREF="http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/lace.html">
> http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/lace.html</A>
> 
> It has some costume-y goodness as well as lace, and nifty embroidery,
> too. 
> 
> 
> -Sarra Wryght
> Elizabethan Dress Journals:
> http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/index.html
> Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 20:21:14 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Brenda <webwarren@earthlink.net>
Subject: Ripping corsets? (WAS: Fwd: [h-cost] Re: pirates of the
  caribbean)
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Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote:

>Modern medical advice warns against cutting off corsets in the case of 
>fainting, as this can cause serious complications.

Pray tell, what -- and why? (This could be of very practical interest at 
Renfaires, and/or to those of our listmembers who run 
whatever-genre-of-first-aid at costumed/recreation events.)


Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 17:39:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: KATHRYN WOLTERS <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] please help with places to visit in France this
	summer/fall
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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In Paris--there is La Musee des Artes Decoratif, as well as La Musee ds Mode and Costumne, as I recall. They were busy re-vamping it last time I was there---so the exhibit was not displayed  in it's Full Glorey. Still worth seeing. I adore Paris --lived there during my junior year of college. I have also been back since. Surewould love to go again:( Sniff!!
Have a wonderful , wonderful time!
Albra

Colleen McDonald <Colleen.McDonald@mackie.com> wrote:
I will be in Nice, Arles, Avignon, Lyon, 
Paris, and parts of the Loire valley from the end of August thru the middle 
of September (a gift from my mother-in-law!). I would like to see as many 
costume-related and fabric-oriented sites as time permits. Can you 
recommend places to add to a "must-see" list?>>

Lyon - The Musee de Tissue Historique is there and from what I've heard, is a must-see. Oooo, I'm so jealous - have a wonderful time!

Colleen

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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <5.1.0.14.0.20030714201925.0b600450@mail.earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Ripping corsets? (WAS: Fwd: [h-cost] Re: pirates of the
	caribbean)
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 20:43:38 -0400
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Why would you not rip a corset off it someone is fainting from lack of
oxygen?  When I wore a corset to the last two Balls those suckers came off
in the car on the way home.  The last Ball it was over 100 degrees and I was
getting heat exhaustion.  I couldn't get it off fast enough so I could
breathe deep.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]  medieval straight pins (was:  sharp object on
	airplanes: hatpins)
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 20:47:17 -0400
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On Monday 14 July 2003 01:15 pm, Melanie Schuessler wrote:
> > Obligatory costume content--does anyone know of anyone who makes medieval
> > style straight pins?  Does anyone have websites of persons who make
> > costume accessories?
>
> I have a friend who makes brass straight pins in several sizes.  He's a
>   fiend for research, so I imagine he could provide documentation as
> well.  Let me know if you'd like his contact information.

Historic Enterprises makes medieval style straight pins.

www.historicenterprises.com


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
 
"You live and learn, or you don't live long."
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul 14 20:55:21 2003
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] bugle beads
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 12:53:12 +1200
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> I don't think it's a bugle bead unless it is long and tubular. There
> is a photograph of one in Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion 1560-
> 1620. I think there is a color one of it in Historical Fashion in
> Detail 17th and 18th C. At any rate, that one is green and looks long
> and tubular.

I love those sleeves:) The beads in HFiD are indeed tubular and there are
some with a broken edge so we can see they also look about as thick as our
modern bugles. Not silver lined of course, but not all modern buglesa re
either;) And they call them tubular beads of course  not bugles.
"Tubular green glass beads, arranged in a starburst, surround the tufts, and
are outlined with a spray of seed stitches in the floss silk."
Should mention for those who don't have the book, or access to it the beads
are sewn across the bead, as well as through, so there is a decoratiove
stitch as well as an anchoring stitch.

And there's the portrait of a girl by Petrus Christus and there are bugle
beads in her necklace. Not sure if they are glass though to be honest. They
are gold coloured, and it's possible they are gold lined clear glass, or
silver lined yellow glass, but they really look solid gold. And of course
they are tubular.

Maybe the meaning of the word Bugle has changed? I know when I was playing
Phoebe for a scene from As You Like It, there is mention of her "bugle bows"
and she later says "he" called her eyebrows black. Not that they were
tubular;) Nor trumpetish shaped.... (re Bugle Boy from Company B;) )

So there are long beads that look like our bugle beads but they may have
been called something else, just as there were bugle beads that may have
refered to another type of bead.

I would just suggest people who are writing about one or the other clarify
whether they are meaning the modern use of the word or contemporary ...

michaela
http://costumes.glittersweet.com



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I have decided that y'all are evil! just evil! <g>
Here I am, wasting away without email (dramatic hand to forehead), and
what do I do, having read the few posts on this thread that I got, but
go out and buy mumblety-mumble dollars' worth of natural dyes, a huge
sliver of multi-colored, jewel-toned wool for spinning, and two! new!
books!
I've got a book on hand-spinning, and another called "Textiles: 5000
Years," which is absolutely full of lovely pictures and commentary on
historical and ethnic fabrics of all sorts from around the world.  My
favorite, at the moment, is this patterned, 14th c. Spanish
silk....mmmmm.....
--sue, going back to slogging through emails....
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Subject: Re: Ripping corsets? (WAS: Fwd: [h-cost] Re: pirates of thecaribbean)
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What *could* happen is that if the person has passed out and you cut the
corset open the fast spread of cut off blood supply could (in theory) cause
the blood to rush to fast causing shock or clotting.

Bice
http://www.livejournal.com/users/jaie/
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2003 8:43 PM
Subject: Re: Ripping corsets? (WAS: Fwd: [h-cost] Re: pirates of
thecaribbean)


> Why would you not rip a corset off it someone is fainting from lack of
> oxygen?  When I wore a corset to the last two Balls those suckers came off
> in the car on the way home.  The last Ball it was over 100 degrees and I
was
> getting heat exhaustion.  I couldn't get it off fast enough so I could
> breathe deep.
>
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
>
>
> [This E-mail was scanned for viruses by Plugit.com Virus Scanners
(http://www.plugit.com)]
>
> _______________________________________________
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	Mon, 14 Jul 2003 18:22:21 PDT
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 18:22:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Brainard <marcocaprioli@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Another farthingale image was - Re: [h-cost] Making/finding
	bentrope
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Angloise is an old french version of <anglaise>, the feminine form of
<anglais>, if that helps. I'll see if I have it in me to transcribe the
whole thing.

Jeff


--- Sarah <sarah@elizabethanlady.com> wrote:
> 
> On Friday, July 11, 2003, at 10:29  AM, J.A.Urbik wrote:
> 
> > Can someone who knows the language translate the writing?  I am 
> > curious,
> > but since I last took french about 16 years ago i am LOST.  Though
> I 
> > did
> > spend the morning trying to teach equations to summer school creole
> > speakers if that has any impact on french :>
> >>>> http://www.threadneedlest.com/Bulletinboard.htm  French 1567 
> >>>> according
> 
> You know... I'm just going off my extraordinarily rusty French, but
> I'm 
> assuming it's referring to an English woman.  "Angloyse" (that funny 
> "f" thing is an "s" in case anyone is confused)  is close enough to 
> "Anglais" to make that assumption, but I know someone will correct me
> 
> if I'm wrong.  ;)
> 
> Sarah
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul 14 21:36:26 2003
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Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 18:34:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Brainard <marcocaprioli@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Another farthingale image was - Re: [h-cost] Making/finding
	bentrope
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Well, it's no uncommon thing for publishers and engraver to have
recycled already made materials just as embroiderers copied from books
and such (see Arnold: QEWU'd, in the chapter on embellishment).
Civitates Orbis Terrarum was a widely copied and plagerised book.

Jeff  


--- Drea Leed <drea@nospam> wrote:
> Wow, and the entire group off of the London map--including the same
> woman-- is re-depicted in the Civitates Orbis Terrarum of 1572!
> 
> http://costume.dm.net/mappeople/mappeoplefullsize/london.jpeg
> 
> Drea
> 
> 
> On Fri, 11 Jul 2003, Drea Leed wrote:
> 
> >
> > You know, this woman is almost identical to a woman depicted on a
> map of
> > Tudor London, at
> http://lewis.up.edu/efl/asarnow/TudorMapofLondon.html.
> >
> > Interesting...
> >
> > Drea
> >
> >
> > On Fri, 11 Jul 2003, Sarah wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > On Friday, July 11, 2003, at 10:29  AM, J.A.Urbik wrote:
> > >
> > > > Can someone who knows the language translate the writing?  I am
> > > > curious,
> > > > but since I last took french about 16 years ago i am LOST. 
> Though I
> > > > did
> > > > spend the morning trying to teach equations to summer school
> creole
> > > > speakers if that has any impact on french :>
> > > >>>> http://www.threadneedlest.com/Bulletinboard.htm  French 1567
> > > >>>> according
> > >
> > > You know... I'm just going off my extraordinarily rusty French,
> but I'm
> > > assuming it's referring to an English woman.  "Angloyse" (that
> funny
> > > "f" thing is an "s" in case anyone is confused)  is close enough
> to
> > > "Anglais" to make that assumption, but I know someone will
> correct me
> > > if I'm wrong.  ;)
> > >
> > > Sarah
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul 14 21:40:53 2003
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] please help with places to visit in
	Francethissummer/fall
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 18:38:47 -0700
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In Paris, you must go to the Musee de la Mode et du Textile, which is at the
Louvre but has a separate entrance -- NOT in the center pyramid, but outside
that courtyard.  The entrance is on the Rue de Rivoli.

http://www.ucad.fr/infos_pratiques.htm#107

Obviously the Louvre as well.  If you're into the 19th century, the Musee
d'Orsay (http://www.musee-orsay.fr/) is a fabulous art (sorry, no costumes)
museum -- you can see all the Impressionists etc.

- Kendra

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From: Jeff Brainard <marcocaprioli@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Another farthingale image was - Re: [h-cost] Making/finding
	bentrope
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Hey, does anyone have some fun engravings of "savages of the new world"
they'd like to share? For the Symposium in Denver I'm seriously
considering doing the "a king of Florida" outfit from Vecellio (plate
490) but more ideas are always better.

Jeff


--- Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu> wrote:

> the illustration of "Le sauvage en pompe" (the savage on display -- 
> no particular location is specified):
> 
> When the savage is boasting or displaying,
> He is suitably dressed like this.
> If you are afraid that this portrait deceives you,
> Go to these places to see his clothes.


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Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 18:57:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Brainard <marcocaprioli@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bamberg Lining?  Anyone used this before?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Bembourg...mmmm.

J.


--- "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Hi all, my cousin has asked me to make her a riding coat for her show
> season
> this year.  She gave me one of her old ones to make a pattern out of.
>  I was
> surprised to find that the lining was a synthetic satin.  (The
> fashion
> fabric is silk dupioni)  I was wondering if they did this because the
> lining
> is exposed to perspiration.  Anyway, I can't find duchess satin in
> the right
> color and I don't trust my dyeing skills to make sure it is colour
> fast,
> especially under "High sweat" conditions (My cousins swears she
> sweats more
> than her mounts).
> 
>  
> 
> So after that long explanation, I have heard great things about
> Bamberg
> linings.  Have any of you used this lining and what are your opinions
> about
> using it under extreme conditions?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Sg
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From: "Lisa Sinervo" <lisa-list@threadneedlest.com>
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Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 19:15:06 -0700
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Subject: [h-cost] 16th or early 17th century umbrellas/coloured shirts
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Hi folks,

I've been busy lately trying to compile a glossary of 16th century clothing and have been pouring through Elizabethan Pageantry by H. K. Morse-1934 and found a couple things I hadn't seen before.  One is a reference to an umberlla in Coryat's Crudities from 1611 although I think he is describing Elizabeth's time, I have to check further.  The quote is - "...may of them doe carry other fine things (than fans) of a far greater price, that will cost, at the least, a duckat, which they commonly call in the Italian toungue umbrellaes, that is, things the minister shadow unto them for shelter against the scorching heate of the sunne.  These are made of leather, something answerable to the forme of a little cannopy, and hooped in the inside with divers little wooden hoopes that extend the umbrella in a pretty large compasse.  They are used especially by horsemen, who carry them in their hands when they ride, fastning the end of the handle upon one of their thighes, and they impart so large a shadow unto them, that it keepeth the heate of the sunne from the upper parts of their bodies."

Also, a mention of coloured shirts.  "Item-ix shertes whereof iiii whyte sherts, ii blacke, a blewe one edged with gold and one with silver-40 shilling." from a Folger Manuscript. (Inventorye of the goods...of George Cope, 1572)

I also thought Cotgrave's Dictionary from 1632 had a funny entry for Chopines - "A kind of high slippers for low women"

The umbrella reference is handy, the date of the introduction of the umbrella (umbrello, umbrellaes) often comes up at ren faires here in California.  I always thought they were an anacronism, but maybe not.  Another reference from 1618 is "An umbrello of perfumed leather with a gould fryndge abowte yt which I broughte out of Italie." (Will of R. Toft, 1618, Fairholt)

Has anyone come across any period images of umbrellos?

Lisa Sinervo
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul 14 22:14:37 2003
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From: "Talia" <khanson@kc.rr.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 16th or early 17th century umbrellas/coloured shirts
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 21:12:33 -0500
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Even the ancient Egyptians had umbrellas. 

Talia

> The umbrella reference is handy, the date of the introduction of 
> the umbrella (umbrello, umbrellaes) often comes up at ren faires 
> here in California.  I always thought they were an anacronism, 
> but maybe not.  Another reference from 1618 is "An umbrello of 
> perfumed leather with a gould fryndge abowte yt which I broughte 
> out of Italie." (Will of R. Toft, 1618, Fairholt)
> 
> Has anyone come across any period images of umbrellos?
> 
> Lisa Sinervo

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul 14 22:14:46 2003
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Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 19:12:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Brainard <marcocaprioli@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need Ideas For This Fabric
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Purple was very restricted in tudor england. You can see this in the
sumptuaries by Elizabeth on Drea's site:

http://costume.dm.net/sumptuary.html

Somewhere online there is an actual transcription of both sets of
sumptuaries that Elizabeth set forth and (I think maybe) the last of
those that her father wrote. If memory serves correct right now (and
because I'm feeling a little indolent) only earls and upward could wear
purple suits and only knights of the king/queen could wear it in
mantles (I read this as "knights of the garter", not that I've got THAT
on the brain). In the actual transcription, Elizabeth is adament that
the laws aren't only to distinguish the classes but to protect England
economically, as seen in the thing about wearing foreign wool. Anyhow,
I've been drinking and blabbing history. 

Jeff

--- Elizabeth Walpole <ewalpole@austar.net.au> wrote:
> In her portrait Jane Seymour wears a reddish purple velvet.
> That's all I can think of off the top of my head.
> Elizabeth Walpole
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sarah <sarah@elizabethanlady.com>
> To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Saturday, July 12, 2003 9:18 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] Need Ideas For This Fabric
> 
> 
> >I bought this gorgeous silk brocade on ebay thinking it looked like 
> >this: http://www.elizabethanlady.com/images/i-1.JPG
> >
> >Instead, I got this: 
> >http://www.elizabethanlady.com/images/silkbrocade.jpg
> >
> >(Not that anything in the auction mentioned the photo was waaaaay
> off 
> >on the color, but that's beside the point)
> >
> >I'm not a purple person, but I decided to keep it because it sure is
> 
> >pretty, no matter how you look at it.  The only trouble is that I
> want 
> >to use it in a Tudor or Elizabethan gown, but I can't seem to think
> of 
> >any purple being used during that time period.  Does anyone know of
> any 
> >purple being used in clothing during the 16th century?  Sources?  
> >Images?  Ideas?
> >
> >The fact that it's purple will probably not keep me from using it in
> a 
> >costume, but I'm just stumped that I can't actually consciously 
> >remember seeing purple being used in clothing in any of the
> thousands 
> >of portraits I've looked at over the years.
> >
> >Sarah
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >h-costume mailing list
> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> 
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul 14 22:26:44 2003
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From: Jeff Brainard <marcocaprioli@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seams - to finish or not to finish
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Does anyone know the whole name and/or kingdom of Mst. Thorkatla? There
is and early period mst. by the same name here in Artemisia that may be
the same woman. 

Jeff


--- kat@grendal.rain.com wrote:
> 
> > This is very much not primary sourse, but Mistresss Thorkatla (mka
> > Katheryn Nikolich) in a booklet on "The Greenland Gowns"  says on
> p.14
> >  "Gowns were sewn with some form of french seam(1)  to prolong
> wear,
> >  or
> > less frequently, some were lined"
> > "(1) see back cover for sample of french seam on the front and
> > sideseams"
> > 
> > Unforunetly, even though the book is very informative (and I would
> > welcome anyone's constuctive comments on it) that illustration is,
> due
> > to copying, quite unclear.  
> 
> Unfortunately, the illustrations are the important part. Otherwise we
> 
> don't know for sure whether "french seam" according to this person is
> 
> what "french seam" means to someone else. Also, the original pieces 
> which would actually show the stitching are important to know for 
> sure that the interpretation of it is accurate.
> 
> I've seen any number of redrawings which did not accurately represent
> 
> the original garments at all. (Like seams going at an 85 degree angle
> 
> to where they should go according to the original garment and 
> according to experimentation with both forms.) I've also seen things 
> like "flat felled" seams labeled as "french seams" (which are totally
> 
> different and certainly not interchangeable.)
> 
> Where is this pamphlet available?
> 
> Kat
> <kat@redtrollforge.com>
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 19:33:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Brainard <marcocaprioli@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sharp object on airplanes
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I've got a rather large piercing that one may not see with my clothes
on that I've gotten right through customs. My friend who works in
airline security tells me that most places have things set touchy
enough that I shouldn't be able to get through w/o a little looky-loo,
but I had no problem in Denver, Providence, or Newark.

J.


> "Laura Dickerson" <lauradi7@hotmail.com> wrote:
>  >>    Shocking lapse on the part of airline personnel - last summer
> I 
> walked
>  >> through the x-ray machine (having emptied my pockets) wearing a
> large
>  >> straw hat that was pinned to my head.  With hat pins.  4 inches
> long,
>  >> with a decorative item on one end but really sharp at the other
> end.


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Yup.  Though the fashion seems to have been a bit more prevalent in
Germany of the later 16th c., and really hit England in the 80s.

Drea


On Mon, 14 Jul 2003 LoreleiMorte@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 7/14/2003 4:41:31 PM Central Standard Time,
> drea@nospam writes:
>
> > There's two types of garments that can look like a doublet &skirt: the a
> > high-bodied gown, with a bodice that fastens up to the neck, attached
> > skirt, and tabs at the waist...or a separate doublet bodice, worn over
> > another gown/kirtle.
> >
> > The former, obviously, would have bodice and skirt attached.  A separate
> > doublet w/ petticoat (sans bodies) shows up in 1590s records, and doublets
> > for women show up in the mid 70s...but I've found no hard data indicating
> > whether they were worn over petticoats/kirtles with or sans bodies.
> > Probably both.
> >
>
> Cool. So, it's pretty much a case of "whatever blows my hair back", eh? Make
> a high bodied gown or a doublet over a kirtle.
>
> -Sarra Wryght
> Elizabethan Dress Journals: http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/index.html
> Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need Ideas For This Fabric
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 22:45:59 -0400
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Only purple silk. There is no mention of purple with regard to any other
type of cloth.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Brainard" <marcocaprioli@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2003 10:12 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need Ideas For This Fabric


> Purple was very restricted in tudor england. You can see this in the
> sumptuaries by Elizabeth on Drea's site:
>
> http://costume.dm.net/sumptuary.html
>
> Somewhere online there is an actual transcription of both sets of
> sumptuaries that Elizabeth set forth and (I think maybe) the last of
> those that her father wrote. If memory serves correct right now (and
> because I'm feeling a little indolent) only earls and upward could wear
> purple suits and only knights of the king/queen could wear it in
> mantles (I read this as "knights of the garter", not that I've got THAT
> on the brain). In the actual transcription, Elizabeth is adament that
> the laws aren't only to distinguish the classes but to protect England
> economically, as seen in the thing about wearing foreign wool. Anyhow,
> I've been drinking and blabbing history.
>
> Jeff
>
> --- Elizabeth Walpole <ewalpole@austar.net.au> wrote:
> > In her portrait Jane Seymour wears a reddish purple velvet.
> > That's all I can think of off the top of my head.
> > Elizabeth Walpole
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Sarah <sarah@elizabethanlady.com>
> > To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Date: Saturday, July 12, 2003 9:18 AM
> > Subject: [h-cost] Need Ideas For This Fabric
> >
> >
> > >I bought this gorgeous silk brocade on ebay thinking it looked like
> > >this: http://www.elizabethanlady.com/images/i-1.JPG
> > >
> > >Instead, I got this:
> > >http://www.elizabethanlady.com/images/silkbrocade.jpg
> > >
> > >(Not that anything in the auction mentioned the photo was waaaaay
> > off
> > >on the color, but that's beside the point)
> > >
> > >I'm not a purple person, but I decided to keep it because it sure is
> >
> > >pretty, no matter how you look at it.  The only trouble is that I
> > want
> > >to use it in a Tudor or Elizabethan gown, but I can't seem to think
> > of
> > >any purple being used during that time period.  Does anyone know of
> > any
> > >purple being used in clothing during the 16th century?  Sources?
> > >Images?  Ideas?
> > >
> > >The fact that it's purple will probably not keep me from using it in
> > a
> > >costume, but I'm just stumped that I can't actually consciously
> > >remember seeing purple being used in clothing in any of the
> > thousands
> > >of portraits I've looked at over the years.
> > >
> > >Sarah
> > >
> > >_______________________________________________
> > >h-costume mailing list
> > >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
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On Monday 14 July 2003 01:32 am, Glenda Robinson wrote:
> Thanks for the tip Cathy!
>
> They also have NESAT 5, and they're both around 30 pounds.

Sounds about right.  I just bought NESAT 5 from them, in fact.  If only I read 
German!

They had NESAT 3 a few years ago, and I blew my chance to buy it then (because 
of lack of money).  Hope they still have 4 when I can afford another one.  
:-)

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
 
"You live and learn, or you don't live long."
 Robert Heinlein

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> hey, what about waxed seams? I'm dying to do THAT for an A&S
> (subtext=S&M) entry. Sue will probably die laughing when Caryn and
> Kortland see that.

Lordy, I forgot about that one (which seems to be especially good on 
silk.)

Janet Arnold mentioned (when we were talking at a lecture she gave) 
about using gum arabic as well. (I wish that they would say what the 
results of testing was and what the tests were when they mention 
things like this!)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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From: kat@grendal.rain.com
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Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 20:36:01 -0700
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	caribbean)
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> Why would you not rip a corset off it someone is fainting from lack of
> oxygen?  When I wore a corset to the last two Balls those suckers came
> off in the car on the way home.  The last Ball it was over 100 degrees
> and I was getting heat exhaustion.  I couldn't get it off fast enough
> so I could breathe deep.

Short answer: rapid removal of corset can cause the heart to stop.

Long answer: if the chest is compressed it gets "used" to having that 
amount of blood in the chest and major vessels. If that pressure is 
suddenly released, it results in a sudden decompression which leads 
to rapid exit of the blood from the L ventricle without adequate 
inflow. This results in asystole (heart stopping.)

The *only* time that you should suddenly release a corset is when the 
heart has *already* stopped. Then any change can help get the heart 
going again, as well as allowing you to do CPR. But it can stop it if 
it is done too rapidly (such as a corset whose laces are suddenly cut 
or the bodice itself is ripped off.)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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> Just pondering....
> 
> I'm a form believer in the Whole Gown vs the skirt'n'bodice theory in
> 'bethan garment construction. I always sew my bodices to my
> skirts...makes it way easier and hangs better in my personal
> experience. Now, doublets..... my pondering is (for doublets that
> match the skirt)....doublet over matching kirtle (note I said kirtle,
> not skirt)OR skirt and doublet sewn as one? PoF seems to say
> sewn-as-one. 

While I'm sure that they did have sewn-as-one garments, they also, as 
evidenced by the inventories and wills of the period (such as in 
Janet Arnold's QEWU) have separate bodices and skirts. From what I've 
seen in that sort of evidence, they started doing them separately 
somewhere around the middle of the 16th C for women's garments.

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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> What about starch? Or something that would have a similar result?
> I think I remember seeing it or hearing about it somewhere, to help
> stiffen slippery fabrics and make them more manageable...

Nope. Not dreaming. However, last year I did a dress with a pintucked 
front in a lightweight taffeta (yeah, silly me, I know) and had to do 
a *lot* of experimentation to see what would work to let me do that. 
I tried various brands of starch but found that the only washable 
thing which really worked was the Palmer Plesch brand of stiffener. 
(Aleen's was a poor second best.)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Subject: [h-cost] QE-how tall again-Madame Tussaud's?
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My email has been on again off again all week.  If someone had already
thought of this, sorry.  Anyone ask the Madame Tussaud's Museum how they
figured out how tall she was?

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From: "Lisa Sinervo" <lisa-list@threadneedlest.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost]  cutting chiffon and other woodgy fabric (was
	fittingaGFD/cotte)
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I tried the starch thing once, and if I recall correctly, and I can't
remember the fabric I used, it was great to cut, great to sew but the starch
never really completly, washed out of the french seams I used so it was a
bit of a failure.  Some light starch might be okay, depending on the fabric.

Lisa

----- Original Message -----
From: <kat@grendal.rain.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2003 8:36 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] cutting chiffon and other woodgy fabric (was
fittingaGFD/cotte)


>
> > What about starch? Or something that would have a similar result?
> > I think I remember seeing it or hearing about it somewhere, to help
> > stiffen slippery fabrics and make them more manageable...
>
> Nope. Not dreaming. However, last year I did a dress with a pintucked
> front in a lightweight taffeta (yeah, silly me, I know) and had to do
> a *lot* of experimentation to see what would work to let me do that.
> I tried various brands of starch but found that the only washable
> thing which really worked was the Palmer Plesch brand of stiffener.
> (Aleen's was a poor second best.)
>
> Kat
> <kat@redtrollforge.com>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 23:46:59 -0700
From: Dawn Jacobson <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT:Pirates of the Caribbean
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At 06:33 PM 7/14/2003 -0400, you wrote:

>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Heather Meadows" <alice@wonderland.com>
>
> > You have a non-costumer friend?
> >
> > what are you thinking?  ;)
>
>I don't know what she's thinking, but I've found that my own non costumer
>friends help me stay sane.
>
>If I had only costumer friends, my house would be filled to the roof with
>fabric and patterns and books and sketches and notions and old hats and old
>dresses and old shoes and weird shirts and bizarre pants and... well... you
>get the idea :-)

And you say this like it's a bad thing? ;-)

Dawn


Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are the costumes we wear every day. 
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Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 09:13:21 +0100
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pirates Costume Question
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Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com 07/14/03 08:22am >>>
 --- jessica stier <jessicastier@hotmail.com> wrote: > 
>> she was walking onto the deserted island...).  The interesting thing
was 
>> this slit on each arm that started about three inches below the
shoulder.  
>> This ran somewhere to mid forearm length.  It was laced closed.
>>  
>> Does anyone remember this detail?  Is there historical accuracy to
this?  I 
>> can't really figure out the point of it. 

>Whioch year is it supposed to be, or even which century? However, in
all >my 17th and early 18th. c. studies I have never ever ever ever come
>across such a thing. Costume designer freedom of choice, my guess.

>Nicole

Perhaps a confused recollection of the open sleeve seams of the
mid-17th century? - but that was always the *outer* sleeve, leting the
shirt/shift show through. (I think Jessica said this was the shift
sleeve which was slit?)




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Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 00:18:29 -0700
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: Ripping corsets? (WAS: Fwd: [h-cost] Re: pirates of the
	caribbean)
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>>Modern medical advice warns against cutting off corsets in the case of 
>>fainting, as this can cause serious complications.
>
>Pray tell, what -- and why? (This could be of very practical interest at 
>Renfaires, and/or to those of our listmembers who run 
>whatever-genre-of-first-aid at costumed/recreation events.)

The blood suddenly rushes into the previously constricted area, causing 
blood pressure to drop in other places, like the brain.  In extreme cases, 
this could lead to a coma.  Not good.  Removing the corset quickly may be a 
good idea, just don't do it too quickly.  Unlace it, or take several 
seconds to undo the busk, rather than just cutting it off.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pirates Costume Question
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> >Whioch year is it supposed to be, or even which century? However, in
>all >my 17th and early 18th. c. studies I have never ever ever ever come
> >across such a thing. Costume designer freedom of choice, my guess.
>
> >Nicole
>
>Perhaps a confused recollection of the open sleeve seams of the
>mid-17th century? - but that was always the *outer* sleeve, leting the
>shirt/shift show through. (I think Jessica said this was the shift
>sleeve which was slit?)

The shift in question has straight sleeves which lace, where an outer seam 
would be, all the way down to several inches below the elbow.  They would 
show under dresses worn in the mid to later 1700s.  Therefore I think it's 
a costume designer thing, not a historical one.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 09:29:20 +0100
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th or early 17th century umbrellas/coloured
	shirts
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There are some (rain) umbrellas among the crowd approaching the theatre
at the beginning of the Depardieu "Cyrano de Bergerac". I thought this
was an error until I remembered that they had been used in Europe before
they reached Britain. Umbrellas for rain were not introduced here until
the 18th century. I think sunshades may have been known before that, but
were definitely uncommon.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Doublets-n-kirtles-n-skirts, oh my!
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Kat wrote:
> While I'm sure that they did have sewn-as-one garments, they also, as 
> evidenced by the inventories and wills of the period (such as in 
> Janet Arnold's QEWU) have separate bodices and skirts. From what I've 
> seen in that sort of evidence, they started doing them separately 
> somewhere around the middle of the 16th C for women's garments.

For what it's worth, if it were me, I would look at how the waistline
looks.  If there is a distinct stylistic "break" at the waistline -
like, totally different fabrics, or something - then I'd go with
separate garments, a doublet and either a kirtle-with-bodice or perhaps
a skirt.  If the outfit is more "whole", though, and looks like the
parts wouldn't be worn separately, and *especially* if the waist
treatment doesn't have tabs or similar, then I'd consider attaching the
two parts at least semi-permanently.

K.

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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@austar.net.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: QE I - how tall?
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 21:30:37 +1000
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-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Thursday, July 10, 2003 1:57 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: QE I - how tall?


>Also, I know we've discussed the "people were smaller back then" issue here
in the past, but briefly, apparently the story isn't that simple; from
skeletal studies, it seems that average people were very much our size in
some periods and smaller in others; it's not a steady upward trend.
Unfortunately the Victorian era, which is the "back then" that there's the
most evidence for, seems to have been one where people tended to be
particularly small (except the best-nourished classes, of course), which is
probably why the myth got started. I believe the Elizabethan average was
only an inch or so lower than ours.
>
>____________________________________________________________
>0  Chris Laning


I recall hearing recently that Scientists searching for explanations for why
the average height is continually getting taller, have come up with a  new
theory, the old theory focussed mainly on nutrition in childhood, however
since about W.W.II most of the population has been getting good nutrition
but people are still getting taller. The new theory focuses on childhood
diseases, until recently in history there were a set of standard diseases
that children went through, measles, mumps, etc. they were thought of as
normal & most children experienced all of them. However with mass
immunizations children are no longer catching these diseases, this relates
to height in that while your body is busy fighting off infection it stops
putting valuable resources into non essential things like growing taller.
Based on that theory that even in the well nourished upper classes the
average height would be less than it is now, because despite their money
they still caught those diseases.
Elizabeth

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seams - to finish or not to finish
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She is in the East, but not active.  I can call her, but it would help if  I
had the exact questions you want answered.   Could they be restated?   That
way I know I won't have to try playing telephone tag with her.
Rowena
Aethelmearc
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jeff Brainard"
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2003 10:24 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seams - to finish or not to finish


> Does anyone know the whole name and/or kingdom of Mst. Thorkatla? There
> is and early period mst. by the same name here in Artemisia that may be
> the same woman.
>
> Jeff
>
>
> --- kat@grendal.rain.com wrote:
> >
> > > This is very much not primary sourse, but Mistresss Thorkatla (mka
> > > Katheryn Nikolich) in a booklet on "The Greenland Gowns"  says on
> > p.14
> > >  "Gowns were sewn with some form of french seam(1)  to prolong
> > wear,
> > >  or
> > > less frequently, some were lined"
> > > "(1) see back cover for sample of french seam on the front and
> > > sideseams"

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I think I posted in an erlier post her full name is Katheryn Nikolick,
or Thorkatla Herjolfsdottir.
Also, in carefully looking at the booklet, I discovered that the picture
that I was refering to was from _Buried Norsemen at Heerjolfsnes_ pp109,
Male gown #42.  I don't have the book, but those of you who do have it,
can you look at the picture and see what it looks like?

jordana


Jeff Brainard wrote:
> 
> Does anyone know the whole name and/or kingdom of Mst. Thorkatla? There
> is and early period mst. by the same name here in Artemisia that may be
> the same woman.
> 
> Jeff
> 
> --- kat@grendal.rain.com wrote:
> >
> > > This is very much not primary sourse, but Mistresss Thorkatla (mka
> > > Katheryn Nikolich) in a booklet on "The Greenland Gowns"  says on
> > p.14
> > >  "Gowns were sewn with some form of french seam(1)  to prolong
> > wear,
> > >  or
> > > less frequently, some were lined"
> > > "(1) see back cover for sample of french seam on the front and
> > > sideseams"
> > >
> > > Unforunetly, even though the book is very informative (and I would
> > > welcome anyone's constuctive comments on it) that illustration is,
> > due
> > > to copying, quite unclear.


>..snips of comments about it would be nice to see the picture right.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pirates Costume Question
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The shift in question also more closely resembles a proto-GFD than any
of the extant shifts from that time period that I've seen.  IIRC, it
even laced down the front.
Of course, the actress looked good in it, and, looking more like a
light-colored, long dress might make it more appropriate for her sole
garment on the deserted island, at least to some modern eyes.
--sue

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> 
> > >Whioch year is it supposed to be, or even which century? However, in
> >all >my 17th and early 18th. c. studies I have never ever ever ever come
> > >across such a thing. Costume designer freedom of choice, my guess.
> >
> > >Nicole
> >
> >Perhaps a confused recollection of the open sleeve seams of the
> >mid-17th century? - but that was always the *outer* sleeve, leting the
> >shirt/shift show through. (I think Jessica said this was the shift
> >sleeve which was slit?)
> 
> The shift in question has straight sleeves which lace, where an outer seam
> would be, all the way down to several inches below the elbow.  They would
> show under dresses worn in the mid to later 1700s.  Therefore I think it's
> a costume designer thing, not a historical one.
> 
>         CarolynKayta Barrows
> dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
>           www.FunStuft.com
> 
>               //// \\\
>              ////-@@\\\
>             ((((   7 )))
>              (((  <> ))))
>                 )   ((((((
>            /----\   /---\))
> 
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From: "Lisa Sinervo" <lisa-list@threadneedlest.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <sf13c989.067@CSV6.derby.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th or early 17th century umbrellas/colouredshirts
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 06:30:49 -0700
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 "Kate M Bunting" wrote:

> There are some (rain) umbrellas among the crowd approaching the theatre
> at the beginning of the Depardieu "Cyrano de Bergerac". I thought this
> was an error until I remembered that they had been used in Europe before
> they reached Britain. Umbrellas for rain were not introduced here until
> the 18th century. I think sunshades may have been known before that, but
> were definitely uncommon.
>

Okay, that does make sense.  I was aware of the 18th century date too.
Would be kind of fun to take a sweet smelling leather umbrella with hoops
and fringe though.  As if I ever had the time!

Lisa

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th or early 17th century umbrellas/colouredshirts
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The earliest I've seen is 1570s, from the Milanese Tailor's Handbook. A
man in armor is riding on a horse and carrying a big umbrella.  I used to
have a scan of it online, but can't find it right now...

Drea


On Tue, 15 Jul 2003, Lisa Sinervo wrote:

>
>  "Kate M Bunting" wrote:
>
> > There are some (rain) umbrellas among the crowd approaching the theatre
> > at the beginning of the Depardieu "Cyrano de Bergerac". I thought this
> > was an error until I remembered that they had been used in Europe before
> > they reached Britain. Umbrellas for rain were not introduced here until
> > the 18th century. I think sunshades may have been known before that, but
> > were definitely uncommon.
> >
>
> Okay, that does make sense.  I was aware of the 18th century date too.
> Would be kind of fun to take a sweet smelling leather umbrella with hoops
> and fringe though.  As if I ever had the time!
>
> Lisa
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "Dawn Wood" <dawn@agesofelegance.co.uk>
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	<000801c34a7b$392ba3e0$210110ac@TEENALAPTOP>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need Ideas For This Fabric
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 14:38:49 +0100
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brocade was silk so it therefore applies and there are also laws against the
wearing of velvets so it applies to that as well
Dawn
Ages Of Elegance makers of Historical reproduction Clothing, Uniforms and
Bridalwear
 http://www.agesofelegance.co.uk 0113 277 6716

> Only purple silk. There is no mention of purple with regard to any other
> type of cloth.
>
> > Purple was very restricted in tudor england. You can see this in the
> > sumptuaries by Elizabeth on Drea's site:
> >


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From: "Beteena Paradise" <bkessinger@ureach.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Medieval pins
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Someone was asking about vendors for medieval pins. Fettered Cock Pewters
sells two styles. One is a quatrefoil and the other is an acorn. They are at
the bottom of this page:

http://www.fetteredcockpewters.com/page_various_sundry.htm

Teena

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need Ideas For This Fabric
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 10:00:30 -0400
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Many types of fabrics are mentioned: satin, damask, velvet, taffeta, etc.
These can be made of various fibers including, but not limited to, silk.. My
point was that the only fiber associated directly with the color purple is
silk. I often hear people state that the purple itself was restricted by the
sumptuary laws and this is not the case.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Dawn Wood" <dawn@agesofelegance.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2003 9:38 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need Ideas For This Fabric


> brocade was silk so it therefore applies and there are also laws against
the
> wearing of velvets so it applies to that as well
> Dawn
> Ages Of Elegance makers of Historical reproduction Clothing, Uniforms and
> Bridalwear
>  http://www.agesofelegance.co.uk 0113 277 6716
>
> > Only purple silk. There is no mention of purple with regard to any other
> > type of cloth.
> >
> > > Purple was very restricted in tudor england. You can see this in the
> > > sumptuaries by Elizabeth on Drea's site:
> > >
>
>
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You can use starch on silk, but if it's a synthetic fiber, I think you will need to use sizing made of polyvinyl acetate (PVA). 

"Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com> wrote:

>One thing just occured to me...
>
>What about starch? Or something that would have a similar result?

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: QE I - how tall?
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Heredity, then as now, had a lot to do with it too.  Henry VIII was well
over six feet tall as was his maternal grandfather Edward IV. His mother
Elizabeth was also apparently tall for a woman. However, Henry's fraternal
grandmother, Margaret Beaufort, was very short, and passed that trait down
to her great-great nieces, the Grey sisters: Jane, Katherine, and Mary.

Nutrition, or lack thereof, would probably more obviously manifest itself in
skeletal density than height itself.

Cindy Abel

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I believe her father's sumptuary laws also controlled purple velvet.  Regardless, the original poster's question was in regard to a brocade which looked like silk to me.
Constance

"Beteena Paradise" <bkessinger@ureach.com> wrote:

>Only purple silk. There is no mention of purple with regard to any other
>type of cloth.

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<<<this relates
to height in that while your body is busy fighting off infection it stops
putting valuable resources into non essential things like growing
taller.>>>

        I find that a bit hard to believe.  As a child, I had German
measles, three day measles, mumps, chicken pox, whooping cough, and still
grew to be 5'10" tall.  My mother was 5'3" tall and came from a well to
do family.  My dad was 5'11" tall and came from a lower middle class
family.  I suspect it is more in the genes than in the diet or what
disease we had as kids.

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 15:41:14 +0100
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: QE I - how tall?
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Lalah wrote:

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> catpurson@juno.com 07/15/03 03:08pm >>>
<<<this relates
to height in that while your body is busy fighting off infection it
stops
putting valuable resources into non essential things like growing
taller.>>>

>        I find that a bit hard to believe.  As a child, I had German
>measles, three day measles, mumps, chicken pox, whooping cough, and
>still grew to be 5'10" tall.  My mother was 5'3" tall and came from a
well to
>do family.  My dad was 5'11" tall and came from a lower middle class
>family.  I suspect it is more in the genes than in the diet or what
>disease we had as kids.

I'm sure nobody was suggesting that *everyone* who caught childhood
illnesses has ended up short in stature! Of course there have always
been some people with a genetic predisposition to grow tall. There must
be some environmental (or whatever) reason why *average* heights are
increasing, though.




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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20030715.101005.-76521.1.catpurson@juno.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: QE I - how tall?
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 02:51:13 +1200
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>         I find that a bit hard to believe.  As a child, I had German
> measles, three day measles, mumps, chicken pox, whooping cough, and still
> grew to be 5'10" tall.  My mother was 5'3" tall and came from a well to
> do family.  My dad was 5'11" tall and came from a lower middle class
> family.  I suspect it is more in the genes than in the diet or what
> disease we had as kids.

Yes but our diet now (food additives etc aside) allow us to reach our full
growth potential. If you took those same genes and had the poor diet of
(especially) the Victorian era you probably would not acheive that full
height. You were also able to fight those infections mostly through the
wonders of modern medicine especially anitbiotics (though in the above they
might have been helpful in only *one* instance, it's still a help in
general) but also all those lovely pain releivers and the knowelege of how
to deal with the diseases (with room to further understanding as always). We
tend not to die of diseases we once did as well.

Genes and environment go very much hand in hand. With genes being expressed
etc due to factors beyond what is in the genetic code.Oh.. one of my new
favourite quote:
"we may indeed share 98% of our genes with chimpanzees, but then, we share
47% with cabbages." From Science of the Discworld II, a nice wee tome though
I prefered the first book.

As a side note, I had German measles even though I had been imunised. So I
got it when I was 15... aparently there was an epidemic here as many kids my
age had simply been imunised too early.

Chicken pox I got as a very little child, but my poor brother got it in his
late teens. We both have scars, but as I was a very very impressionable
child I believed my mother when she said I'd grow chicken feathers if I
scratched rather than the reality of getting nasty scars. (yes there is some
debate about how scarred you can get, but we do also know the adage "it'll
get worse if you pick it".)

michaela
http://costumes.glittersweet.com


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul 15 11:32:40 2003
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: why not to release corsets quickly
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BTW, for anyone who works at a ren-faire... if you don't *know* that the 
EMTs or whoever is providing First Aid at your event has worked at faire 
before and *knows* about corsets and what happens if they're released 
too quickly, it's not a bad idea to let them know.  I know that the 
wonderful EMTs from Anne Arundel Co. who work at MDRF get a reminder 
from someone or other at least once a year (and they usually pass it on 
to the others who man the booth as well)... and I heard one of them last 
year comment that they hadn't realized the consequences, though once 
they thought for a moment or two it made perfect sense.

There is an exception, BTW.  If someone is in an extreme heat emergency 
and/or is having extreme difficulty in breathing and the corset/bodice 
cannot be released easily... then the other situation needs to take 
priority over the risk of the quick release... or so I've been told... 
I'd double check before you pass *that* part on.

As far as just how *much*of an effect a quick release can have?  I, 
personally, do not tie tight.... I like to be able to use a bit more 
lung capacity than it would allow... so I tie snug enough to support 
what little needs supporting, but no more than a comfy hug (and less 
than some hugs I've been given).  I have a friend who ties a little 
tighter, in part due to her having a bit more that needs support. 
 Still, it's not anywhere near "Gone With the Wind" lacing.  A couple of 
years ago, I was helping her out of her corset and *one* of the ends of 
the lace slipped from my hand (note:  I will avoid whenever possible 
even *touching* the corset of someone who has used lacing that is 
"slippery" now... she used the synthetic braided boot laces, btw).  She 
dropped, even though I caught it a moment later and wasn't fully 
released.  Straight (almost) down... and she's over a half a foot taller 
than me, and similar build (overweight).  All I could do was slow her 
fall, and cushion it a bit, as she landed partly on me....  Admittedly 
it was a warm day, but...  And yes, I still feel guilty, even though it 
was something that 'just happened', not a result of fast loosening on 
purpose (I'd already let out a few inches twice as well... before the 
lace slipped).

I've been told that lacing from the bottom up helps a *bit* because as 
you slowly release, things fall into place... top down, things can fall 
faster, even with a slower release of the strings.

YMMV.

-Elisabeth


>From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
>
>>>Modern medical advice warns against cutting off corsets in the case of 
>>>fainting, as this can cause serious complications.
>>>      
>>>
>>Pray tell, what -- and why? (This could be of very practical interest at 
>>Renfaires, and/or to those of our listmembers who run 
>>whatever-genre-of-first-aid at costumed/recreation events.)
>>    
>>
>
>The blood suddenly rushes into the previously constricted area, causing 
>blood pressure to drop in other places, like the brain.  In extreme cases, 
>this could lead to a coma.  Not good.  Removing the corset quickly may be a 
>good idea, just don't do it too quickly.  Unlace it, or take several 
>seconds to undo the busk, rather than just cutting it off.
>  
>



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: QE I - how tall?
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I was just looking at another Boston MFA catalog that I have, and noticed
that the jacket supposedly given by QEI is in here -- with dimensions!

It's a woman's waistcoat, linen embroidered with metallic yarns and
spangles, trimmed with metallic lace.  The length at the center back is 43
cm. (17 in.).  The jacket extends past the waist over the hips.

The caption says, in part, "These costume parts, among the most important in
the McCormick collection, are said to have been given to the wife of Roger
Woodhouse by Queen Elizabeth I on August 22, 1578..."  [Does this mean it
was originally QEI's?  Could it have been altered for Mrs. Woodhouse?]

----- oooo!  And I just found an image on the MFA's site!  With interactive
zoom!

Try this link:  http://www.mfa.org/artemis/fullrecord.asp?oid=116779&did=800

If that doesn't work, go to http://www.mfa.org/artemis/default.asp and
search for "jacket" -- item title is "Woman's jacket, England, about
1610-15."

- Kendra

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need Ideas For This Fabric
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At 07:12 PM 07/14/2003 -0700, Jeff Brainard wrote:

>Somewhere online there is an actual transcription of both sets of
>sumptuaries that Elizabeth set forth and (I think maybe) the last of
>those that her father wrote. If memory serves correct right now (and
>because I'm feeling a little indolent) only earls and upward could wear
>purple suits and only knights of the king/queen could wear it in
>mantles 

Yes, but what you're missing here is that the restriction is only for
purple *silk*.  Nothing about purple wool!

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"

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Subject: [h-cost] Pirates Costume Question
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Yes, I think you may be right.  Confused costumer and creative license 
probably had a huge part in this decision.  I guess if you are the type of 
person who is of the adament belief that the corset is uncomfortable you 
might not have enough foresight to realize that that lacing on the shift's 
sleeves is going to be even more uncomfortable then the corset.  I just kept 
thinking about her dress sleeves pushing that lacing into her flesh and 
every time she would move her arm, skin would get pinched in between the 
loose lacing.  I have to wonder about people that don't realize that value 
of comfort.

Anyway... until I'm making costumes for big movies...  I'll just have to be 
satisfied with watching and thinking about the why's.

:)  jessica

> >>> nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com 07/14/03 08:22am >>>
>  --- jessica stier <jessicastier@hotmail.com> wrote: >
> >> she was walking onto the deserted island...).  The interesting thing
>was
> >> this slit on each arm that started about three inches below the
>shoulder.
> >> This ran somewhere to mid forearm length.  It was laced closed.
> >>
> >> Does anyone remember this detail?  Is there historical accuracy to
>this?  I
> >> can't really figure out the point of it.
>
> >Whioch year is it supposed to be, or even which century? However, in
>all >my 17th and early 18th. c. studies I have never ever ever ever come
> >across such a thing. Costume designer freedom of choice, my guess.
>
> >Nicole
>
>Perhaps a confused recollection of the open sleeve seams of the
>mid-17th century? - but that was always the *outer* sleeve, leting the
>shirt/shift show through. (I think Jessica said this was the shift
>sleeve which was slit?)
>

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: why not to release corsets quickly
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 11:49:00 -0400
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Also for reference if you MUST release a corset quickly (and this is going
to sound really weird) lean on the person with your body putting very gentle
pressure while you open the corset. This slows the air and blood so that it
doesn't rush. Also smelling salts (victorian ladies were very smart) waved
in the nasal area will get them moving enough to loosen the corset. Always
start snipping the laces at the  bootom as the top area is closer to the
heart and blood rushing in that area can be risky.

Bice
http://www.livejournal.com/users/jaie/
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cozit / Liz" <cozit@comcast.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2003 11:29 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: why not to release corsets quickly


> BTW, for anyone who works at a ren-faire... if you don't *know* that the
> EMTs or whoever is providing First Aid at your event has worked at faire
> before and *knows* about corsets and what happens if they're released
> too quickly, it's not a bad idea to let them know.  I know that the
> wonderful EMTs from Anne Arundel Co. who work at MDRF get a reminder
> from someone or other at least once a year (and they usually pass it on
> to the others who man the booth as well)... and I heard one of them last
> year comment that they hadn't realized the consequences, though once
> they thought for a moment or two it made perfect sense.
>
> There is an exception, BTW.  If someone is in an extreme heat emergency
> and/or is having extreme difficulty in breathing and the corset/bodice
> cannot be released easily... then the other situation needs to take
> priority over the risk of the quick release... or so I've been told...
> I'd double check before you pass *that* part on.
>
> As far as just how *much*of an effect a quick release can have?  I,
> personally, do not tie tight.... I like to be able to use a bit more
> lung capacity than it would allow... so I tie snug enough to support
> what little needs supporting, but no more than a comfy hug (and less
> than some hugs I've been given).  I have a friend who ties a little
> tighter, in part due to her having a bit more that needs support.
>  Still, it's not anywhere near "Gone With the Wind" lacing.  A couple of
> years ago, I was helping her out of her corset and *one* of the ends of
> the lace slipped from my hand (note:  I will avoid whenever possible
> even *touching* the corset of someone who has used lacing that is
> "slippery" now... she used the synthetic braided boot laces, btw).  She
> dropped, even though I caught it a moment later and wasn't fully
> released.  Straight (almost) down... and she's over a half a foot taller
> than me, and similar build (overweight).  All I could do was slow her
> fall, and cushion it a bit, as she landed partly on me....  Admittedly
> it was a warm day, but...  And yes, I still feel guilty, even though it
> was something that 'just happened', not a result of fast loosening on
> purpose (I'd already let out a few inches twice as well... before the
> lace slipped).
>
> I've been told that lacing from the bottom up helps a *bit* because as
> you slowly release, things fall into place... top down, things can fall
> faster, even with a slower release of the strings.
>
> YMMV.
>
> -Elisabeth
>
>
> >From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
> >
> >>>Modern medical advice warns against cutting off corsets in the case of
> >>>fainting, as this can cause serious complications.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>Pray tell, what -- and why? (This could be of very practical interest at
> >>Renfaires, and/or to those of our listmembers who run
> >>whatever-genre-of-first-aid at costumed/recreation events.)
> >>
> >>
> >
> >The blood suddenly rushes into the previously constricted area, causing
> >blood pressure to drop in other places, like the brain.  In extreme
cases,
> >this could lead to a coma.  Not good.  Removing the corset quickly may be
a
> >good idea, just don't do it too quickly.  Unlace it, or take several
> >seconds to undo the busk, rather than just cutting it off.
> >
> >
>
>
>
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: why not to release corsets quickly
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 12:03:41 -0400
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This is such an interesting topic.  I don't think this has been discussed on
the list before.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost]  cutting chiffon and other woodgy fabric (was
	fittingaGFD/cotte)
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When I am sewing silk gauze and other really light silks, I starch them.  I
wash, and then iron and starch.  It's time consuming, but makes them
actually workable.  If I'm going for the real floaty look, I sometimes need
to wash it again before I wear it to get the starch out.  I just use the
spray stuff and, while ironing is best, I have just sprayed the fabric and
let it dry (the time I made three dresses out of 30+ yards of silk).

Haven't tried it with non-silk fabric, so ymmv


> One thing just occured to me...
>
> What about starch? Or something that would have a similar result?
>
> I think I remember seeing it or hearing about it somewhere, to help
stiffen
> slippery fabrics and make them more manageable...
>
> Or maybe I'm just dreaming?
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: QE I - how tall?
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> Yes but our diet now (food additives etc aside) allow us to reach our 
> full
> growth potential

Except if your mom is 5'2 and your dad is 5'4, you're doomed to be 
short, even at "full potential".  ;)

I'm barely skimming 5 feet tall myself, and it's not due to 
malnutrition or disease (I'm disgustingly healthy, and have been my 
whole life).  So, sometimes genetics is the only thing you can blame it 
on...

Tho', I would have loved to been slightly taller.  I should have stuck 
with gymnastics, really.  ;)

Sarah

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>,
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Doublets-n-kirtles-n-skirts, oh my!
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At 08:36 PM 07/14/2003 -0700, kat@grendal.rain.com wrote:

>
>While I'm sure that they did have sewn-as-one garments, they also, as 
>evidenced by the inventories and wills of the period (such as in 
>Janet Arnold's QEWU) have separate bodices and skirts. From what I've 
>seen in that sort of evidence, they started doing them separately 
>somewhere around the middle of the 16th C for women's garments.

There's also the technique of constructing the bodice and skirt as
completely seperate garments and then tacking them together, which is what
I usually do.  

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"

www.margospatterns.com
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<<<You were also able to fight those infections mostly through the
wonders of modern medicine especially anitbiotics>>

        Not a chance.  They didn't even have penicillin for non military
people in the early 40's.  I fought them off by staying in bed (in a dark
room with measles) and that was all the medication I got.  We were a farm
family in a very rural area. We ate well because we grew most of our food
with the exception of flour and sugar and that sort of thing.  Actually,
sugar and a lot of other foods were rationed then too, so we didn't get
much of the way of sweets.  I never received any pain killers (even
aspirin) until I was in high school, and very little then.  As a matter
of fact, my sister almost died with the whooping cough that went into
pneumonia and all they could do for her was keep her warm and hydrated at
home.  Living on a farm in the late 30's and early 40's wasn't much
better than Victorian.  We didn't even have electricity and running water
until the mid 40's. 

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval pins
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Oo, fun! My heraldry uses a quartefoil as its primary charge--I could
definately find a use for these! ;)

Thanks!
Arlys

On Tue, 15 Jul 2003 09:35:15 -0400 "Beteena Paradise"
<bkessinger@ureach.com> writes:
> Someone was asking about vendors for medieval pins. Fettered Cock 
> Pewters sells two styles. One is a quatrefoil and the other is an
acorn. 
> They are at
> the bottom of this page:
> 
> http://www.fetteredcockpewters.com/page_various_sundry.htm
> 
> Teena


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Doesn't that sort of problem mean it was laced too tightly in the first
place?

Arlys

On Tue, 15 Jul 2003 00:18:29 -0700 Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
writes:
> 
> >>Modern medical advice warns against cutting off corsets in the 
> case of 
> >>fainting, as this can cause serious complications.
> >
> >Pray tell, what -- and why? (This could be of very practical 
> interest at 
> >Renfaires, and/or to those of our listmembers who run 
> >whatever-genre-of-first-aid at costumed/recreation events.)
> 
> The blood suddenly rushes into the previously constricted area, 
> causing 
> blood pressure to drop in other places, like the brain.  In extreme 
> cases, 
> this could lead to a coma.  Not good.  Removing the corset quickly 
> may be a 
> good idea, just don't do it too quickly.  Unlace it, or take several 
> 
> seconds to undo the busk, rather than just cutting it off.
> 
> 
>         CarolynKayta Barrows
> dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
>           www.FunStuft.com
> 
>               //// \\\
>              ////-@@\\\
>             ((((   7 )))
>              (((  <> ))))
>                 )   ((((((
>            /----\   /---\))
> 
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Forwarded by:   	"Nicholas Marcelja" <nam>
Forwarded to:   	kat
Date forwarded: 	Tue, 15 Jul 2003 09:30:42 -0700

> >While I'm sure that they did have sewn-as-one garments, they also, as
> > evidenced by the inventories and wills of the period (such as in
> >Janet Arnold's QEWU) have separate bodices and skirts. From what I've
> > seen in that sort of evidence, they started doing them separately
> >somewhere around the middle of the 16th C for women's garments.
> 
> There's also the technique of constructing the bodice and skirt as
> completely seperate garments and then tacking them together, which is
> what I usually do.  

But they probably had them separately. Why else have them as separate 
garments in the inventories (when they had the "one piece" dresses 
listed as well)? The all in one piece dresses are listed as things 
like "Item one rounde gowne of white Sipers laide upon silver 
chamblet with some embroiderie of golde like branches of flowers or 
Nutts" or "Item one French gowne of Carmacion Capha stiped with golde 
and silver edged with the same stuffe." Then later you get into 
separate entries for things like kirtles (all in one section, f.37 in 
the Stowe inventory) listed with foreparts (also a skirt-like thing). 
(Although in the Folger inventories foreparts got their own section 
all to themselves, except for when there was a matching doublet.) 
Sometimes they do have a "Dublet" listed with them, but not always. 
(Petticoats seem to be listed separately from the kirtles and 
foreparts.) Then much later you get the section for the "Dublettes". 

Are you saying that despite that, and despite the existance of extant 
separate doublets, that they would have sewn/tacked them together 
always?

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Subject: Re: Another farthingale image was - Re: [h-cost] Making/finding 
 bentrope
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At 6:22 PM -0700 7/14/03, Jeff Brainard wrote:
>Angloise is an old french version of <anglaise>, the feminine form of
><anglais>, if that helps. I'll see if I have it in me to transcribe the
>whole thing.

You may have missed it -- I already posted a transcription from a 
slightly earlier edition of the material.  Don't let that stop you if 
you're having fun ....

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Oh, I do indeed get the idea.  Every once in a while my non-costumer
boyfriend starts to threaten to chuck crates of fabric at random, and
I have to either hide them better, or use them quickly...  thank 
goodness
for basements.

.heather.


On Monday, July 14, 2003, at 03:33 PM, Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:
>
> If I had only costumer friends, my house would be filled to the roof 
> with
> fabric and patterns and books and sketches and notions and old hats 
> and old
> dresses and old shoes and weird shirts and bizarre pants and... 
> well... you
> get the idea :-)
> _______________________________________________
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From: lilinah@earthlink.net
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT:Pirates of the Caribbean
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OK, i just saw "Pirates of the Caribbean" last night and i want a 
Johnny Depp for my birthday next month... (but, then, i'll rent 
almost anything with him in it. Not only is he beautiful, but he can 
*act*)

Orlando Bloom, however, doesn't do much for me. He's ok, but i fail 
to see what the fuss is about.

That aside, there were many Many MANY costume "errors" in the movie. 
I annoyed my friend by leaning over with great frequency commenting 
on them. But, i enjoyed it anyway - yeah, it's kinda dumb, but it was 
fun. It's a summer movie.

And, sheesh, folks, it's a *fantasy* film, not historical recreation. 
For those who are uncertain, it's reasonable to ask, "was that 
'period'?" But it's silly, IMO, for folks to diss the movie for its 
fantasy-costume aspects.

Also, i hope folks stayed until the end of all the credits for the 
little tricky bit that came after them...

Anahita
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seams - to finish or not to finish
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At 7:58 AM -0400 7/15/03, J.A.Urbik wrote:
>I think I posted in an erlier post her full name is Katheryn Nikolick,
>or Thorkatla Herjolfsdottir.
>Also, in carefully looking at the booklet, I discovered that the picture
>that I was refering to was from _Buried Norsemen at Heerjolfsnes_ pp109,
>Male gown #42.  I don't have the book, but those of you who do have it,
>can you look at the picture and see what it looks like?

It's a black-and-white photograph of the original (conserved) 
garment, displayed on a form.  Since you're looking at the outside of 
the garment, I don't see how you could get French seams from it.  The 
seams of the center-front gore do show a slight ridge on the main 
fabric   The description notes "The dress ... was taken up whole with 
the seams joined together.  It was neither cut to pieces nor 
unpicked." but the specific nature of the sleeves is not described. 
Given this, it can't be ruled out that the odd ridge visible in the 
photograph could be a byproduct of conservation (i.e.attachment to a 
backing fabric in a way to take stress off the original seam).  It 
could also be a result of a felled seam.  In fact, as I understand 
French seams, they would seem unlikely to produce this particular 
visual effect.

(That the photograph reproduced badly in the booklet is not at all 
surprising -- it's fairly mediocre in the original.)

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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	Francethissummer/fall
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Also not costume related, but my favorite museum in Paris
has to be the Rodin museum.  If you're a fan of his sculpture,
it's a must-see.

.heather.


On Monday, July 14, 2003, at 06:38 PM, Kendra Van Cleave wrote:

> In Paris, you must go to the Musee de la Mode et du Textile, which is 
> at the
> Louvre but has a separate entrance -- NOT in the center pyramid, but 
> outside
> that courtyard.  The entrance is on the Rue de Rivoli.
>
> http://www.ucad.fr/infos_pratiques.htm#107
>
> Obviously the Louvre as well.  If you're into the 19th century, the 
> Musee
> d'Orsay (http://www.musee-orsay.fr/) is a fabulous art (sorry, no 
> costumes)
> museum -- you can see all the Impressionists etc.
>
> - Kendra
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Doublets-n-kirtles-n-skirts, oh my!
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word definition clarification please - by "kirtle" are people meaning
petticoat bodies type of garment (i.e. bodice & skirt in one) or a separate
skirt (i.e. found in Alcega)? Or are people talking past each other using
the same word for both things? I think I'm starting to get lost...

Also, if as I have heard elsewhere, the doublet is simply worn over a full
gown with bodice attached, what happens to the waist and shoulder treatments
from the bodice? wouldn't they show, or at least make some pretty big
bulges?



...following conversation closely cuz I'm thinking of adding a doublet for
me to the list of things to do...

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot
BRF FOF; Guilde of St. Lawrence

A room without books is like a body without a soul
---Cicero

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Doublets-n-kirtles-n-skirts, oh my!
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In a message dated 7/15/2003 12:10:42 PM Central Standard Time, 
kat@grendal.rain.com writes:

> Are you saying that despite that, and despite the existance of extant 
> separate doublets, that they would have sewn/tacked them together 
> always?
> 

Drea pointed out that doublets and high bodied gowns aren't exactly the same 
thing. Anything that says "gown" is most likely sewn together. Kirtles 
generally have bodices. The kirtles in Alcega are meant to be sewn together, the only 
mention of a waist band is for the circular skirts, which are basically 
petticoats to be worn under the outer garments for warmth and to fluff them out. 
Most of the skirts in PoF have a distinct slant to the CF which implies they are 
shaped to the bodice point in the front.   One skirt even has the jig-jag 
look of pleats cut to meet the bottom of the bodice. With the exception of 
doublets and jerkins, it makes very little sense to make a bodice and skirt 
seperately (if you're tacking them together, then they are now a gown and one 
garment). Every single person I know who's ever made a bodice AND skirt outfit, had to 
put hooks along the waistband of the skirt and the bottom of the bodice to 
make it look right. Why bother with that? Period construction technique often 
had seperate pieces of a garment completely finished, then butted together and 
whipstitched. I do that with my gowns (as far as connecting the skirt to the 
bodice, finish each edge, then butt and stitch. As far as doublets go, I believe 
most were worn over a kirtle. 

-Sarra Wryght
Elizabethan Dress Journals: http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/index.html
Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
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In a message dated 7/15/2003 12:40:15 PM Central Standard Time, 
lotsofteapots@charter.net writes:

> word definition clarification please - by "kirtle" are people meaning
> petticoat bodies type of garment (i.e. bodice &skirt in one) or a separate
> skirt (i.e. found in Alcega)? Or are people talking past each other using
> the same word for both things? I think I'm starting to get lost...
> 

We're using "kirtle" as in "Petticoat with bodies". 

> Also, if as I have heard elsewhere, the doublet is simply worn over a full
> gown with bodice attached, what happens to the waist and shoulder treatments
> from the bodice? wouldn't they show, or at least make some pretty big
> 

They wouldn't be wearing them over gowns or kirtles with shoulder treatments. 
The kirtle in PoF, that's meant to be worn under a loose gown, has no 
shoulder treatments, just bound around the arms and plenty o' eyelets for lacing on 
sleeves. One probably had a few plain gowns with no shoulder treatments that 
could be worn under different things.

-Sarra Wryght
Elizabethan Dress Journals: http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/index.html
Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
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From: "Dawn Wood" <dawn@agesofelegance.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: 
	<20030715021255.41774.qmail@web11404.mail.yahoo.com><000801c34a7b$392ba3e0$210110ac@TEENALAPTOP><027301c34ad6$6df42740$39080150@Imedia5043>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need Ideas For This Fabric
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 18:26:19 +0100
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and my point was that as silk comes in all shapes and forms then it applied
here as the sender was asking about silk brocade
Dawn
Ages Of Elegance makers of Historical reproduction Clothing, Uniforms and
Bridalwear
 http://www.agesofelegance.co.uk 0113 277 6716


> Many types of fabrics are mentioned: satin, damask, velvet, taffeta, etc.
> These can be made of various fibers including, but not limited to, silk..
My
> point was that the only fiber associated directly with the color purple is
> silk. I often hear people state that the purple itself was restricted by
the
> sumptuary laws and this is not the case.


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From: "Dawn Wood" <dawn@agesofelegance.co.uk>
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References: <Law10-F40dl2SHJbvoa0000ad06@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pirates Costume Question
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 18:38:38 +0100
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and whilst making costumes for movies I also sit and think WHY!!!!! but as
they are paying they obviously know best
Dawn
Ages Of Elegance makers of Historical reproduction Clothing, Uniforms and
Bridalwear
 http://www.agesofelegance.co.uk 0113 277 6716
>
> Anyway... until I'm making costumes for big movies...  I'll just have to
be
> satisfied with watching and thinking about the why's.
>
>


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Gail Finke wrote:
>I have been reading all the posts and as Johnny Depp fan (and swashbuckler
>movie fan) I am ready to go see the film. But would somebody please email me
>privately with the answer to this question: Is it appropriate for children?
>I know a couple of parents who are confused about this, because it's
>Disney's first PG-13 movie but all the little kids want to see it. Now that
>I've read about corsets being ripped off, and of course about skeletal
>undead pirates, I can't imagine this being appropriate for Disney's usual
>crowd. But none of the reviews I've read have mentioned it. So what do you
>think is the lower age limit? Fourteen? Ten? Again, off-list is fine.

I would think there's nothing in the movie that could disturb a 14 
year old much, unless they are awfully "impressionable". Ten? Well, 
maybe... Ultimately it depends on your child. If your child is easily 
frightened, then perhaps not.

I'd have brought my daughter at the age 12 or 11. Maybe even 10. 
There are no sex scenes. There's only a little upper bust exposure. 
There are lots of skeletons... but they are humorously portrayed at 
least part of the time. And there's one drunken scene, but only Jack 
Sparrow (Johnny Depp's character) is drunk...

When my daughter was under 13, she said she found realistic movies 
more frightening because they portrayed things that might happen, but 
fantasies were not so frightening, since they were obviously not real.

This is definitely not a kid's film, but it doesn't have all sorts of 
things a movie aimed purely at adults would have. The movie has a 
PG-13 rating because of the "violence" and the skeletal crew. The 
ratings are a suggestion to parents. Obviously this isn't "the Love 
Bug" or "Flubber".

So you have to decide, based on your knowledge of your child and of the film.

Anahita
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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Doublets-n-kirtles-n-skirts, oh my!
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On Tue, 15 Jul 2003 lotsofteapots@charter.net wrote:

> word definition clarification please - by "kirtle" are people meaning
> petticoat bodies type of garment (i.e. bodice & skirt in one) or a
> separate skirt (i.e. found in Alcega)? Or are people talking past each
> other using the same word for both things? I think I'm starting to get
> lost...

"Kirtle" is a confusing term.  In Elizabethan England, I've seen more
references to kirtles with bodies than to kirtles without; In Alcega's
spanish pattern book, most "kirtles" are without bodices.

Keep in mind, though, that the word "Kirtle" in Alcega is a translation of
a Spanish word, and may well not be precisely what an Elizabethan would
have meant when they said "kyrtle".

Alcega's our main source for kirtle skirts without bodies attached to
them.  Of course, he's our main source for a lot of gown construction
patterns that noone else saw fit to write down. :)
 >
> Also, if as I have heard elsewhere, the doublet is simply worn over a full
> gown with bodice attached, what happens to the waist and shoulder treatments
> from the bodice? wouldn't they show, or at least make some pretty big
> bulges?
>
Yup--it would be worn over a kirtle, which wouldn't have as fancy
shoulder or waist treatments as a full gown. Whether the kirtle was simply
a skirt or a full undergarment is currently unsure; there's references to
both, and both were possible.

I wear a doublet over a kirtle (with bodies) at
http://costume.dm.net/wardrobe/dublet.html, for an example of this.


Drea

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From: "Beteena Paradise" <bkessinger@ureach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <sf1420af.009@CSV6.derby.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: QE I - how tall?
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 14:25:54 -0400
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I read a study somewhere where they listed the attributes people find
attractive in a mate. It said that people find tall people more attractive.
If that is so.... then couldn't it just be evolution?

----- Original Message -----
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2003 10:41 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: QE I - how tall?


> Lalah wrote:
>
> Kate Bunting
> Library, University of Derby
>
> >>> catpurson@juno.com 07/15/03 03:08pm >>>
> <<<this relates
> to height in that while your body is busy fighting off infection it
> stops
> putting valuable resources into non essential things like growing
> taller.>>>
>
> >        I find that a bit hard to believe.  As a child, I had German
> >measles, three day measles, mumps, chicken pox, whooping cough, and
> >still grew to be 5'10" tall.  My mother was 5'3" tall and came from a
> well to
> >do family.  My dad was 5'11" tall and came from a lower middle class
> >family.  I suspect it is more in the genes than in the diet or what
> >disease we had as kids.
>
> I'm sure nobody was suggesting that *everyone* who caught childhood
> illnesses has ended up short in stature! Of course there have always
> been some people with a genetic predisposition to grow tall. There must
> be some environmental (or whatever) reason why *average* heights are
> increasing, though.
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need Ideas For This Fabric
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 14:33:08 -0400
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I had thought (as had at least one other) that the conversation had changed
from the original question as often happens on these threads. Thank you for
letting me know that I was mistaken.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Dawn Wood" <dawn@agesofelegance.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2003 1:26 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need Ideas For This Fabric


> and my point was that as silk comes in all shapes and forms then it
applied
> here as the sender was asking about silk brocade
> Dawn
> Ages Of Elegance makers of Historical reproduction Clothing, Uniforms and
> Bridalwear
>  http://www.agesofelegance.co.uk 0113 277 6716
>
>
> > Many types of fabrics are mentioned: satin, damask, velvet, taffeta,
etc.
> > These can be made of various fibers including, but not limited to,
silk..
> My
> > point was that the only fiber associated directly with the color purple
is
> > silk. I often hear people state that the purple itself was restricted by
> the
> > sumptuary laws and this is not the case.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Doublets-n-kirtles-n-skirts, oh my!
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 13:51:42 -0500
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Thanks Drea & Sarah - that helps me picture it much better! So, I need to
add a bodies to the skirt I have and then I can make a doublet to go over
it. (sketching and planning and plotting in my head...)

And you know, putting that skirt on a bodice will help the wearing of it
soooooooo much - that thing is damned heavy!

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot
BRF FOF; Guilde of St. Lawrence

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---Cicero

lotsofteapots@charter.net
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Penny Ladnier wrote:

> This is such an interesting topic.  I don't think this has been discussed on
> the list before.

I could have sworn I learned all this before from the list.  If it has 
been discussed here it's been awhile.  A useful topic to come up once in 
awhile.  Any other costume safety tips/concerns?

Personally, I'm terrified to walk near open camp fires in full skirts.

--Charlene

-- 
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throughout their lives.  --Robert Maynard Hutchings

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From: Mara Riley <corbiegirl@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]  cutting chiffon and other woodgy fabric (was fitting
	aGFD/cotte)
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Didn't Threads Magazine have an article in a recent issue about
sewing with sheers?  

-- Mara

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Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 21:28:39 +0100 (BST)
From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Average Height, was Re: [h-cost] Re: QE I - how tall?
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 --- Kate M Bunting <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> wrote: > 

> been some people with a genetic predisposition to grow tall. There must
> be some environmental (or whatever) reason why *average* heights are
> increasing, though.

Are they, Kate? Are they really? It seems to me that in this country (England)
people are getting shorter and smaller. The students at university seem tinier
and tinier, is it really true that people are getting taller in all countries?
Sure, in Denmark many girls were very tall, but here?
Just a thought.

Nicole

=====
Men Die. Cattle Die. Word-Fame Lives Forever.   ~ Old Norse Aphorism

Email: nicole@kipar.org
URL: http://www.kipar.org

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: costume safety tips
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Charlene,

> Any other costume safety tips/concerns?
>
> Personally, I'm terrified to walk near open camp fires in full skirts.

I am currently working at Bristol Renn Faire around a cooking fire in a
middle-class Eliz. gown. Mostly, I just keep an eye on where my skirts are.
I also have made my gown of wool (less likely to start burning if a spark
happens to land on it). However, my underskirt is linen, and I have had no
problems (yet!) I think just being aware is the best thing. Also, a cooking
fire does not, and in fact should not, be a roaring bonfire, but a nice,
small, controllable flame that makes coals to cook over.

>
> --Charlene
>
> --
> The object of education is to prepare the young to educate themselves
> throughout their lives.  --Robert Maynard Hutchings

Ack! My alma mater is U of Chicago - I haven't heard anything of Hutchins in
a *loooooooong* time!

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot
BRF FOF; Guilde of St. Lawrence

A room without books is like a body without a soul
---Cicero

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************

>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: Average Height, was Re: [h-cost] Re: QE I - how tall?
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OAre they, Kate? Are they really? It seems to me that in this country 
(England)
> people are getting shorter and smaller. The students at university 
> seem tinier
> and tinier, is it really true that people are getting taller in all 
> countries?
> Sure, in Denmark many girls were very tall, but here?
> Just a thought.

My fiance was working for an elementary school this past year and while 
not every kid was gargantuan, there seemed to be an increasing number 
of *girls* who were taller than what the average was when I was a 4th 
and 5th grader.  Boys seemed to stay around the same height over the 
last 20 years, but girls have been getting bigger and developing 
sooner, and that is actually a scientifically supported fact here in 
the States.

Also, looking at children's shoes (which I often do because I can still 
wear them...), I've noticed that sizing has changed in the last 20 
years as well.  What I wore as an 8 year old is about three sizes 
smaller than what the same age group apparently wears today, although 
the size name has stayed the same.  For instance, a size 3 US girls is 
about the same as a size 6 or 7 US women's.  When I wore a size 3 
girls, it was about 3 sizes smaller than a women's size 6.

This doesn't mean that females in general are getting bigger, just that 
they're reaching their adult heights (and in a lot of cases, the rest 
of their adult baggage like menstruation) a lot sooner than before.  
Some people speculate that this is because of hormones used to beef up 
cattle making their way into the food chain via milk and other cattle 
products.  I'm not sure if it's been proven, but it's so far the most 
popular assumption.

Sarah
http://www.elizabethanlady.com

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No one has said it, so I thought I'd remind anyone thinking about the
average height of European populations that during the times that the
average size was smaller than ours, there would still be a range similar to
ours. In other words, there WERE tall people. Just not as many of them. Most
of us know this but it's the kind of information newer folks to historical
research often find surprising. And I apologize for my awful grammar,
grammar and I aren't getting along today.

Gail Finke

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>Are they, Kate? Are they really? It seems to me that in this country
(England)
people are getting shorter and smaller.

I disagree, you see things from way up there because you come from a land of
giants ;) On the other hand I'm not so tall & have to look up at these
teenagers !

Seriously, research shows bigger people in this country(UK) than in the past
and younger ages for period starting . Personal experiance backs this up, I
used to be tall at 5 ft 6inches, but compared to modern female teenagers I'm
not. Also Children' s clothes attract no VAT here as most Mums will tell you
teenagers don't fit kids clothes generally. I don't count Alex  as he has
too much Germanic blood to be counted as proper English ;0)

But I will cite middle child Bryony, who when she left for france was size 2
shoe (who know what she is now)  she is 9 (8 when she left) Size 1 English
used to be the first adult size (Victorian times) But the 50s 60s 4 was the
sample (standard) size. Now you struggle to find any younger girl with feet
that small.

>The students at university seem tinier
and tinier, is it really true that people are getting taller in all
countries?

Maybe a large asian influence ? I suppose if you took a mix of people in
Leicester as opposed to Leicestershire you would get smaller average as the
Asian population tends to be smaller ?

>Sure, in Denmark many girls were very tall, but here?

Yes , we are smaller than our industrial ancestors (if we talk white
caucasion(sp)), but about the same as our 9th C Anglo Saxon ancestors
(Germaic influence perhaps ? ) and still smaller than your average European
Hunter Gatherer, by most accounts. It isn't one factor at all, but a
combination of things.

I'm not convinced there is a big genetic influence that might make bigger
people since Victorian times, in England so I agree environment is
influencing this. But it influences the potential in the genes. So to show a
parallel however well you feed a Shetland he won't get as big as a
racehorse. But if you don't feed you racehorse well he won't get to his full
height. One of my horses never made full height as somebody shot her in the
eye & I believe resources went to healing that rather than growing.I could
go on about biological examples but they arn't costume related. So I will
finish on people in victorian period were however bigger(from skeletal
evidence) than the tiny clothes more often found tend to indicate, see
costume content !!

Mel

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Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 21:54:54 +0100 (BST)
From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th or early 17th century umbrellas/colouredshirts
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 There is a 1715 French advert for collpasible rain-umbrellas (paraplui)
Too late for your question, but nevertheless an amusing snippet of info. ;-)

Nicole

=====
Men Die. Cattle Die. Word-Fame Lives Forever.   ~ Old Norse Aphorism

Email: nicole@kipar.org
URL: http://www.kipar.org

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Subject: Re: Average Height, was Re: [h-cost] Re: QE I - how tall?
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In a message dated 7/15/03 4:36:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com writes:

> Are they, Kate? Are they really? It seems to me that in this country 
> (England)
> people are getting shorter and smaller. The students at university seem 
> tinier
> and tinier, is it really true that people are getting taller in all 
> countries?
> Sure, in Denmark many girls were very tall, but here?
> Just a thought.

To me it seems that the girls in my school keep getting smaller and smaller- 
I was 5' even when I hit 5th grade, and the girls in 5th grade at my school 
last year (we go 5th through 12th, or ages 10-18, for anyone outside of the US) 
were TINY!  Say, 4'6"!  I felt giant next to them, and I'm just under 5'4".

Christine
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>This doesn't mean that females in general are getting bigger, just that
they're reaching their adult heights (and in a lot of cases, the rest
of their adult baggage like menstruation) a lot sooner than before.

This is also true it seems, looking skeletally again.

>Some people speculate that this is because of hormones used to beef up
cattle making their way into the food chain via milk and other cattle
products.

Not sure I'm completly convinced on that, as my son was about the height &
musculatur he is now at 13(he has grown maybe 2 inches in 4 years). And he
is very well muscled ! Given he only had 'normal' food for the first four
years of his life then was on an adative free diet, including totally
organic meat, milk etc etc I'm pretty sure no hormones beefed him up :)
However he is very physically active and this increases bone mass and can be
seen in the skeletal record. the AS popuklation I know best are very very
muscular (men & Women)

Mel
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From: Lee Thompson-Herbert <lee@retro.com>
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Subject: Re: Average Height, was Re: [h-cost] Re: QE I - how tall?
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"Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk> wrote:
[...] 
> But I will cite middle child Bryony, who when she left for france was size 2
> shoe (who know what she is now)  she is 9 (8 when she left) Size 1 English
> used to be the first adult size (Victorian times) But the 50s 60s 4 was the
> sample (standard) size. Now you struggle to find any younger girl with feet
> that small.

Yeah, the clogmaker in Wigan that I ordered my stepdancing clogs from 
remembers me every time I call.  He says there aren't too many people
who wear a size 2 clog (okay, it'd be size 3 now, as my feet have gotten
a little more deformed from the arthritis).  Especially someone from 
California with size 2 clogs.  Walter has made clogs for a number of us
out here, but I'm the one he rememebers because I have such freakishly
small feet.

And I just have to forget buying formal women's shoes that fit.  For
that matter, the smallest adult Birkenstock size is a little too 
large for me...

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul 15 17:39:52 2003
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From: "Cynthia Abel" <brujne@creighton.edu>
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	<000601c34b14$00767c20$81694ed5@pavilion>
Subject: Re: Average Height, was Re: [h-cost] Re: QE I - how tall?
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 16:37:13 -0500
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I remember reading recently that the Rolling Stones were just amazed at the
height and more solid build of most Americans on their first American tour
way back in the early 60's. Seems the kids of during and postwar UK didn't
do too much growing limited to the ration cards that were used up to the
early 50's or so. And their parents had insufficient prenatal nutrition
themselves.  WWI had also done some major depleting of the gene pool  as so
many men were killed in the war, many of the tallest and strongest. One
positive thing that came out of WWI from the British standpoint was that so
many men didn't meet minimum standards; that was blamed on poor nutrition
and created an awareness of the shortfalls in the British diet for the poor.
The 1917-19 influenza epidemic also killed a large part of the 20-40 yr age
cohort worldwide.

Also my grandfather's small town Iowa community had a lot of German POW's
during WWII. These POW's worked on the farms and most never remembered
having such plenty growing up during and after post WWI Germany as they saw
on American tables.  This was during wartime rationing.  Not a few of these
POW's were really teenagers and the farmers and their wives wouldn't put
these kids to work until they got them fed and healthy by American
standards. They were appalled by what these kids could tell them about the
average standard of living in Germany. The German kids, if they had any
family to write home to, were able to assure their families that they were
well-fed and well-treated. I believe there was at least one of these very
young POW's, that lost all of his family, was able to get American
sponsorship and stay in the U.S.

I'm just under 5 ft and thought fine-boned, but I was raised on plenty of
whole milk and Wonder Bread as a baby-boomer and even though I was always
the tiniest kid in the class, I could barely squeeze into a circa 1900 wool
and braid commercially-made ladies' jacket as a teenager as my wide, but
bony shoulders, made very difficult.  I still have the jacket, btw--it has a
few moth holes as it was stored for many years before I inheirted it and if
fit me now, I could weigh no more than 80 lbs I think!

Cindy Abel

Cindy Abel
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2003 3:59 PM
Subject: Re: Average Height, was Re: [h-cost] Re: QE I - how tall?


> >Are they, Kate? Are they really? It seems to me that in this country
> (England)
> people are getting shorter and smaller.
>
> I disagree, you see things from way up there because you come from a land
of
> giants ;) On the other hand I'm not so tall & have to look up at these
> teenagers !
>
> Seriously, research shows bigger people in this country(UK) than in the
past
> and younger ages for period starting . Personal experiance backs this up,
I
> used to be tall at 5 ft 6inches, but compared to modern female teenagers
I'm
> not. Also Children' s clothes attract no VAT here as most Mums will tell
you
> teenagers don't fit kids clothes generally. I don't count Alex  as he has
> too much Germanic blood to be counted as proper English ;0)
>
> But I will cite middle child Bryony, who when she left for france was size
2
> shoe (who know what she is now)  she is 9 (8 when she left) Size 1 English
> used to be the first adult size (Victorian times) But the 50s 60s 4 was
the
> sample (standard) size. Now you struggle to find any younger girl with
feet
> that small.
>
> >The students at university seem tinier
> and tinier, is it really true that people are getting taller in all
> countries?
>
> Maybe a large asian influence ? I suppose if you took a mix of people in
> Leicester as opposed to Leicestershire you would get smaller average as
the
> Asian population tends to be smaller ?
>
> >Sure, in Denmark many girls were very tall, but here?
>
> Yes , we are smaller than our industrial ancestors (if we talk white
> caucasion(sp)), but about the same as our 9th C Anglo Saxon ancestors
> (Germaic influence perhaps ? ) and still smaller than your average
European
> Hunter Gatherer, by most accounts. It isn't one factor at all, but a
> combination of things.
>
> I'm not convinced there is a big genetic influence that might make bigger
> people since Victorian times, in England so I agree environment is
> influencing this. But it influences the potential in the genes. So to show
a
> parallel however well you feed a Shetland he won't get as big as a
> racehorse. But if you don't feed you racehorse well he won't get to his
full
> height. One of my horses never made full height as somebody shot her in
the
> eye & I believe resources went to healing that rather than growing.I could
> go on about biological examples but they arn't costume related. So I will
> finish on people in victorian period were however bigger(from skeletal
> evidence) than the tiny clothes more often found tend to indicate, see
> costume content !!
>
> Mel
>
> This e-mail, and any attachment, is confidential. If you have received
> it in error, please delete it from your system, do not use or disclose
> the information in any way, and notify me immediately. The contents of
> this message may contain personal views which are not the views of the
> Company, unless specifically stated.
>
>
>
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul 15 17:45:47 2003
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From: Mara Riley <corbiegirl@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: QE I - how tall?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Well, our genes haven't changed greatly in the last several hundred
years.  So disease and nutrition obviously play a big role.

-- Mara

--- catpurson@juno.com wrote:
>         I find that a bit hard to believe.  As a child, I had
> German
> measles, three day measles, mumps, chicken pox, whooping cough, and
> still
> grew to be 5'10" tall.  My mother was 5'3" tall and came from a
> well to
> do family.  My dad was 5'11" tall and came from a lower middle
> class
> family.  I suspect it is more in the genes than in the diet or what
> disease we had as kids.


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul 15 17:51:36 2003
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From: Mara Riley <corbiegirl@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: QE I - how tall?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Another thing -- I think the reason we think that "people were
shorter back then" is that ceilings in many historic homes are low,
as are door lintels.  Well, by that reasoning, Southerners must have
been giants in the 18th century, whereas Northerners were dwarfs. 
The real answer?  Ceilings were lower in Northern houses to conserve
heat, whereas they were higher in the South to dissipate it.

Clothes being smaller?  Well, if you figure that many of the clothes
preserved are wedding or fancy ball dresses, which were worn by young
women -- I don't fit into the wedding dress I wore at 21, either,
alas!

Beds were shorter?  People slept in a semi-sitting position in the
18th c., so needed less footroom.

The current clothing exhibit at Williamsburg has a chart on the wall
that shows the heights of a number of known individuals in the 18th
and 20th centuries, as well as the averages.  The average height for
both men and women appears to have been about an inch less than the
current average.

-- Mara

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul 15 17:56:58 2003
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Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 14:53:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: Mara Riley <corbiegirl@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: why not to release corsets quickly
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Ooof!  Now that's tightlacing...

I lace my 18th c. style stays from the bottom up.  Had a lace break
this spring with no adverse effects, other than a bit of cursing on
my part about the breakage <G>.

A few years ago I was asked to help make a wedding dress for a friend
of a friend.  She showed up with a RenFaire corset, and had to be
laced into it so tightly that I was sure the thing was going to
burst.  She swore up and down that it fit perfectly, and that the
salespeople who sold it to her even told her it was a bit on the
large side.  Never mind that the corset bore no resemblance to a
historical design; it made me wonder about legal liability on the
part of the folks who sold her this thing!

-- Mara


--- Cozit / Liz <cozit@comcast.net> wrote:
> I have a friend who ties a little
> tighter, in part due to her having a bit more that needs support. 
>  Still, it's not anywhere near "Gone With the Wind" lacing.  A
> couple of 
> years ago, I was helping her out of her corset and *one* of the
> ends of 
> the lace slipped from my hand (note:  I will avoid whenever
> possible 
> even *touching* the corset of someone who has used lacing that is 
> "slippery" now... she used the synthetic braided boot laces, btw). 
> She 
> dropped, even though I caught it a moment later and wasn't fully 
> released.  (snip)

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Average Height, was Re: [h-cost] Re: QE I - how tall?
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 --- Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk> wrote: > >Are they,
Kate? Are they really? It seems to me that in this country
> (England)
> people are getting shorter and smaller.
> 
> I disagree, you see things from way up there because you come from a land of
> giants ;) On the other hand I'm not so tall & have to look up at these
> teenagers !

*laughs!* Okay, I stand corrected, next time I bang my head against some
ridiculously low doorway I blame the land of giants. :-)

Costume content? Nah, too hot and I should be in bed.

Nicole

=====
Men Die. Cattle Die. Word-Fame Lives Forever.   ~ Old Norse Aphorism

Email: nicole@kipar.org
URL: http://www.kipar.org

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>Also my grandfather's small town Iowa community had a lot of German POW's
during WWII. These POW's worked on the farms and most never remembered
having such plenty growing up during and after post WWI Germany as they saw
on American tables

Interestingly my Uncle a British POW, on seeing German soldiers thought they
were so well fed and well built that he was amazed !

Mel

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Subject: [h-cost] About costumer friends
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> >
> >If I had only costumer friends, my house would be filled to the roof with
> >fabric and patterns and books and sketches and notions and old hats and
old
> >dresses and old shoes and weird shirts and bizarre pants and... well...
you
> >get the idea :-)
>
> And you say this like it's a bad thing? ;-)
>
> Dawn

Well, it's a good thing in itself... but it would end up making me feel like
I didn't do anything else in my life but pile up stuff. And I'd also feel
bad because all that stuff wouldn't be used for anything else than my
looking at it once in a while.

And I'm also a believer that everything has to be done with a certain amount
of... hmm... restraint? If I let myself get everything I want, I don't think
I'll enjoy it as much as if I get things as a treat once in a while, or as a
gift.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval pins
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On Tuesday 15 July 2003 09:35 am, Beteena Paradise wrote:
> Someone was asking about vendors for medieval pins. Fettered Cock Pewters
> sells two styles. One is a quatrefoil and the other is an acorn. They are
> at the bottom of this page:
>
> http://www.fetteredcockpewters.com/page_various_sundry.htm

Thanks for the URL--I wasn't familiar with this site, but it looks great!  

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
 
"You live and learn, or you don't live long."
 Robert Heinlein

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on 7/15/03 5:00 PM, h-costume-request@indra.com at
h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:


> 
> I read a study somewhere where they listed the attributes people find
> attractive in a mate. It said that people find tall people more attractive.
> If that is so.... then couldn't it just be evolution?
> 
That would be pretty fast evolution!

Gail Finke

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> Personally, I'm terrified to walk near open camp fires in full skirts.
>
> --Charlene

Well... depends what they're made of. Natural fibers will burn, but they
won't do anything nasty, they won't melt, and they're relatively easy to put
out. Though it would be sad to burn something you've taken a lot of time
making :-)
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From: "Genie" <kerowyn@mindspring.com>
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	<000601c34b14$00767c20$81694ed5@pavilion>
Subject: Re: Average Height, was Re: [h-cost] Re: QE I - how tall?
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 19:30:44 -0500
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I've  also heard the theory that extant(?) garments/clothing were items that
were for unusual shaped/sized people. And for whatever reason were not cut
down or remade.

Genie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2003 3:59 PM
Subject: Re: Average Height, was Re: [h-cost] Re: QE I - how tall?


> >Are they, Kate? Are they really? It seems to me that in this country
> (England)
> people are getting shorter and smaller.
>
> I disagree, you see things from way up there because you come from a land
of
> giants ;) On the other hand I'm not so tall & have to look up at these
> teenagers !
>
> Seriously, research shows bigger people in this country(UK) than in the
past
> and younger ages for period starting . Personal experiance backs this up,
I
> used to be tall at 5 ft 6inches, but compared to modern female teenagers
I'm
> not. Also Children' s clothes attract no VAT here as most Mums will tell
you
> teenagers don't fit kids clothes generally. I don't count Alex  as he has
> too much Germanic blood to be counted as proper English ;0)
>
> But I will cite middle child Bryony, who when she left for france was size
2
> shoe (who know what she is now)  she is 9 (8 when she left) Size 1 English
> used to be the first adult size (Victorian times) But the 50s 60s 4 was
the
> sample (standard) size. Now you struggle to find any younger girl with
feet
> that small.
>
> >The students at university seem tinier
> and tinier, is it really true that people are getting taller in all
> countries?
>
> Maybe a large asian influence ? I suppose if you took a mix of people in
> Leicester as opposed to Leicestershire you would get smaller average as
the
> Asian population tends to be smaller ?
>
> >Sure, in Denmark many girls were very tall, but here?
>
> Yes , we are smaller than our industrial ancestors (if we talk white
> caucasion(sp)), but about the same as our 9th C Anglo Saxon ancestors
> (Germaic influence perhaps ? ) and still smaller than your average
European
> Hunter Gatherer, by most accounts. It isn't one factor at all, but a
> combination of things.
>
> I'm not convinced there is a big genetic influence that might make bigger
> people since Victorian times, in England so I agree environment is
> influencing this. But it influences the potential in the genes. So to show
a
> parallel however well you feed a Shetland he won't get as big as a
> racehorse. But if you don't feed you racehorse well he won't get to his
full
> height. One of my horses never made full height as somebody shot her in
the
> eye & I believe resources went to healing that rather than growing.I could
> go on about biological examples but they arn't costume related. So I will
> finish on people in victorian period were however bigger(from skeletal
> evidence) than the tiny clothes more often found tend to indicate, see
> costume content !!
>
> Mel
>
> This e-mail, and any attachment, is confidential. If you have received
> it in error, please delete it from your system, do not use or disclose
> the information in any way, and notify me immediately. The contents of
> this message may contain personal views which are not the views of the
> Company, unless specifically stated.
>
>
>
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul 15 22:49:57 2003
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: average height
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 14:46:53 +1200
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> No one has said it, so I thought I'd remind anyone thinking about the
> average height of European populations that during the times that the
> average size was smaller than ours, there would still be a range similar
to
> ours. In other words, there WERE tall people. Just not as many of them.
Most
> of us know this but it's the kind of information newer folks to historical
> research often find surprising.

Oh yes, Mary of Hungary's dress dimentions are practically the same as the
dress I made myself (Though I di make the skirt longer as it was more an
interpretation of the dress not a replica). And there is mention of people
being taller too.

There were also times when the average height was as tall posibly taller.
It's thought that urbanisation is the most likely contributor to the height
issue. No refridgeration etc sanitary conditions were porrer. Especially in
Victorian England (possibly other countries.. but I've not read anything
particularly in that regard) the industrial evolution and all it's pollution
also contributed.

> Except if your mom is 5'2 and your dad is 5'4, you're doomed to be
> short, even at "full potential".  ;)

Yeah but you can't reach that full potential if environment

> I'm barely skimming 5 feet tall myself, and it's not due to
> malnutrition or disease (I'm disgustingly healthy, and have been my
> whole life).  So, sometimes genetics is the only thing you can blame it
> on...

Tell that to people who seriously research genetic factors. You cannot take
genetic code and determine what an organism will turn out to be. Environment
plays a far bigger factor in how we turn out than you may think.
Which is why breatfeeding is so important, as new borns we need a kickstart
for our immune system to work, and we get that through breast milk.  That is
environment over genes.

I have RA. There is thought to be a genetic *predisposition* but it doesn't
mean if you have that you will get RA. There is soem kind of triggering
event. And it may take years for it to be expressed or a few weeks in my
case (and I know of others who had a phyical trauma triggering event).

And no, our genes can't change that quickly to have short people in some
eras and tall people (average) in others;) Though there is some interesting
info about how quickly an eye can evolve from photosenstive skin but we are
talking a very very long time as far as human culural evolution is
concerned;)

As for garments only being preserved because they were of people with out of
norm shapes.. I doubt it. Especially as a lot of the garments are from
tombs, or bogs, or unearthed in some way prior to whenever... Then the huge
amount of items from the 18th and 19thC.. there's just too much to suggest
they were saved because no one else could use them. There would have been
enough people of those times who could have used or had passed down items.
And of course peopel interested in history, or purely sentimental and wanted
to keep their garments.

michaela
http://costumes.glittersweet.com




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Subject: Re: Average Height, was Re: [h-cost] Re: QE I - how tall?
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>I've  also heard the theory that extant(?) garments/clothing were items
that
were for unusual shaped/sized people. And for whatever reason were not cut
down or remade

I tend to believe extant garment were either special garments or those that
could not be cut down further, of course this is a generalisation.

Mel

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Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 20:42:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Brainard <marcocaprioli@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval pins
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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fettered cock? sounds more like an associate of Mr.S (well known
leather shop in the Castro--I'm sure Heather lives across the street or
something)

J.


--- Beteena Paradise <bkessinger@ureach.com> wrote:
> Someone was asking about vendors for medieval pins. Fettered Cock
> Pewters
> sells two styles. One is a quatrefoil and the other is an acorn. They
> are at
> the bottom of this page:
> 
> http://www.fetteredcockpewters.com/page_various_sundry.htm
> 
> Teena
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: QE I - how tall?
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How do you know that you wouldn't been *taller* if you had not had
German measles, three day measles, mumps, chicken pox, whooping cough?

Onaree

catpurson@juno.com wrote:
> 
>         I find that a bit hard to believe.  As a child, I had German
> measles, three day measles, mumps, chicken pox, whooping cough, and still
> grew to be 5'10" tall.  My mother was 5'3" tall and came from a well to
> do family.  My dad was 5'11" tall and came from a lower middle class
> family.  I suspect it is more in the genes than in the diet or what
> disease we had as kids.
> 
> Lalah
> Never give up, Never surrender
> _______________________________________________
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-- 
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From: michael tartaglio <mikes@dandy.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: pirates of the caribbean
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Hi, All. Just to add a little more fuel to the fire, and then I'll 
retire (as they used to say, start the fight and then offer to hold the 
coats...).  If the Lady was too tightly laced, then maybe she should 
have directed her venom towards the cause of the problem..it seems that 
the whole "joke" of the thing was directed toward the 
not-so-knowledgeable (read "gullible" ) public who equate corsetting 
with horrible deformities and some sort of male induced 
bondage/punishment ritual. If some of you did indeed gather something 
else from the plotline, then perhaps there was more to the thing than 
first attacked my senses.  I am also partially offended because, as 
usual, Hollywood has taken a legitimate historical period, with 
legitimate historical documentation regarding the lives of some nautical 
criminal elements, and made it "jolly good fun". It is very hard to do 
any mid to late 17th Cent. or early 18th Cent. reenactment of any 
military or nautical type without  (especially after such a film) being 
bombarded with people wanting their kids to have their pictures taken 
with "the pirates", then not wanting to be provided with any real 
information of any historical value. It maked the job harder for folks 
actually reenacting "The Golden Age of Piracy", or almost any maritime 
venture. And besides, I don't think I've ever seen a pirate with mascara 
(though, if it helps them get through their day, I say, go for it)  ;)   
Trying to get off the Hook, Mike T.

>
>
>
>  
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: average height
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From: Sarah <sarah@elizabethanlady.com>
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Status: RO

>> I'm barely skimming 5 feet tall myself, and it's not due to
>> malnutrition or disease (I'm disgustingly healthy, and have been my
>> whole life).  So, sometimes genetics is the only thing you can blame 
>> it
>> on...
>
> Tell that to people who seriously research genetic factors. You cannot 
> take
> genetic code and determine what an organism will turn out to be. 
> Environment
> plays a far bigger factor in how we turn out than you may think.
> Which is why breatfeeding is so important, as new borns we need a 
> kickstart
> for our immune system to work, and we get that through breast milk.  
> That is
> environment over genes.

I never said environment had no effect.  I was breast fed, and my mom 
was when she was pregnant with me, the model of perfect health, but 
there is no way on God's green earth that with parents as short as mine 
I would ever be taller than I am.  It's just not gonna happen naturally 
(disregarding some wild chance that I would have a recessive disorder 
such as Marfan's, which is clearly not the case).  I think this one is 
primarily genetics.  I understand what you're talking about in terms of 
genetics not being the sole determining factor in how we develop, but 
it's a pretty darn big one.

Sarah 
  

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 16 00:55:28 2003
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: why not to release corsets quickly
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Status: RO

This from a SCA medic (as told to me):

And you must NEVER release the corset in any way if a person is 
choking.  Do the Heimlich with the corset in place.  Yes, it's really 
hard.  If you loosen (or worse, cut) the corset, there is a sharp intake of 
breath - which pushes the object they're choking on even deeper.

Sandy

>Subject: [h-cost] Re: why not to release corsets quickly
>
>BTW, for anyone who works at a ren-faire... if you don't *know* that the
>EMTs or whoever is providing First Aid at your event has worked at faire
>before and *knows* about corsets and what happens if they're released
>too quickly, it's not a bad idea to let them know.
>
>There is an exception, BTW.  If someone is in an extreme heat emergency
>and/or is having extreme difficulty in breathing and the corset/bodice
>cannot be released easily... then the other situation needs to take
>priority over the risk of the quick release... or so I've been told...
>I'd double check before you pass *that* part on.
>
>YMMV.
>
>-Elisabeth

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed To Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly--
Why They Are Simply Doomed."

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
-- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 16 01:11:59 2003
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: pirates of the caribbean
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 01:03:43 -0400
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On Tuesday 15 July 2003 11:59 pm, michael tartaglio wrote:
> Hi, All. Just to add a little more fuel to the fire, and then I'll
> retire (as they used to say, start the fight and then offer to hold the
> coats...).  If the Lady was too tightly laced, then maybe she should
> have directed her venom towards the cause of the problem..it seems that
> the whole "joke" of the thing was directed toward the
> not-so-knowledgeable (read "gullible" ) public who equate corsetting
> with horrible deformities and some sort of male induced
> bondage/punishment ritual.

I agree with you (having just seen the movie tonight).  Particularly since the 
young lady in question was clearly depicted as a healthy, vigorous girl, and 
no weakling or slave to fashion or convention.


>If some of you did indeed gather something
> else from the plotline, then perhaps there was more to the thing than
> first attacked my senses.  I am also partially offended because, as
> usual, Hollywood has taken a legitimate historical period, with
> legitimate historical documentation regarding the lives of some nautical
> criminal elements, and made it "jolly good fun".

I was more offended by the rank inconsistencies of behavior with setting.  By 
the time they got *into* the plot, I was so incapable of suspending disbelief 
that I couldn't make myself care what happened.

> It is very hard to do
> any mid to late 17th Cent. or early 18th Cent. reenactment of any
> military or nautical type without  (especially after such a film) being
> bombarded with people wanting their kids to have their pictures taken
> with "the pirates", then not wanting to be provided with any real
> information of any historical value. It maked the job harder for folks
> actually reenacting "The Golden Age of Piracy", or almost any maritime
> venture. And besides, I don't think I've ever seen a pirate with mascara
> (though, if it helps them get through their day, I say, go for it)  ;)

I will say that Depp definitely did his best to get into the spirit of things. 

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
 
"You live and learn, or you don't live long."
 Robert Heinlein

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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Average Height
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Actually for the past 25 years, girls have been getting taller in the U.S.
It is attributed to better food and availability.  Girls in general do the
majority of their growing between the ages of 11-13.  My youngest sister was
6' by 12 years old.  According to our pediatrician, girls' body are maturing
at a faster rate that 25 years ago.  Most girls are starting their period
now between the age of 11-13 y.o.   This is also backed up with better
nutrition.

On the other hand, boys do the majority of their growing between 13-18.
Most men will grow 1" in height between 18-21.

I can't quote the source on this one.  I learned it in my child development
and nutrition classes in college... see that Home Ec. Ed did come in handy!

I can tell you from teaching in a middle school, that there is a big
difference in female's body maturity between a 6th and 8th grader.
Comparing the 8th grade students that I taught last and then at 18 years
old, they are still the same height and about the same body weight.  The
boys... some of them I don't even recognize.  Their faces have changed to a
more squared look, body shape, height, etc.  The girls I always recognize
right off the bat.  The main thing that has changed is their fashions.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Average Height
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 01:36:22 -0400
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On Wednesday 16 July 2003 01:26 am, Penny Ladnier wrote:
> Actually for the past 25 years, girls have been getting taller in the U.S.
> It is attributed to better food and availability.  Girls in general do the
> majority of their growing between the ages of 11-13.  My youngest sister
> was 6' by 12 years old.  According to our pediatrician, girls' body are
> maturing at a faster rate that 25 years ago.  Most girls are starting their
> period now between the age of 11-13 y.o.   This is also backed up with
> better nutrition.
>
> On the other hand, boys do the majority of their growing between 13-18.
> Most men will grow 1" in height between 18-21.

And some men continue to grow even later.  My father gained about 4 inches in 
height after 30.  And my husband went from a size 38 to a size 42 suit after 
30 (this is increased breadth across the shoulders, not an increase in waist 
size).


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
 
"You live and learn, or you don't live long."
 Robert Heinlein

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 16 02:39:21 2003
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Average Height
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 02:38:07 -0400
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Cathy,

Men do gain a lot in chest size in their 20s and 30s.  This is when their
shoulders get broad.

We have a photo taken of my 15 y.o. son on the platform for swimming.  He
was in position to dive.  I was floored to see all the muscles in his upper
body.

Swimmers male and female generally have broader shoulders.  My son and
daughter have been competitive swimming for the past five years.  My 11 y.o.
daughter has swimmer's shoulders this year.  Now I understand why women's
competitive swim suits are cut the way they are.

I was watching ESPN tonight with the women's water polo event.  My goodness,
these women's shoulder's were are broad as men's.  Then I watched the
synicized (sp) ladies swimming and men's diving.  Their shoulders were not
as large.  I guess they don't have to do endurance swimming like lap
swimming.

To make this costume related... I was raised with a river in my front
yard... so we swam every day.  In my first round of college, I swam on the
school's team.  This turned into my interest in historic swim suits and why
I have it on my website.  See, I can make just about anything costume
related.  I am really interested in finding some documentation on when
swimmer's started the trick of shaving all their body hair to increase
speed.  I was listening to an interview of one of the female 2000 Olympic
gold medal swimmers. She said during the Olympics she shaved her body hair
three times a day.  Another fairly new trick during training is to wear
pantyhose... to create drag.  Even the men do this.  So when they swim an
event in competition, they will go faster without the hose.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 16 02:40:24 2003
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] tall/short people
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 01:02:14 -0400
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I come from a very tall family.  My Mom is 5' 10" and Dad was 6' 3".  My
brothers range in height from 6' 3" to 7'.  My sister are from 5' 9" to 6'
2".  All of use have very long necks, legs, feet, hands, and arms.  All the
girls wear size 12+ in shoes, and the boys 15+.

I was 5' 11" before having back problems and married a man who is 6' 1".  I
think we saved all of my tall genes for son #2 who is 6' 7".  All the rest
of my boys range between 5' 10" to 6' 1"... what I think is short compared
to my siblings.  I got so used to looking up at guys around my brothers.
Now, I can look eye to eye with most of my sons.

I think people became really fascinated with tall people in the 1920s when
the silhouette for women became very linear.  There is documentation in the
1921 etiquette book that I have online about how tall women could wear
anything and look good except for certain stripes.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Extant clothing, was Re: Average Height, was Re: [h-cost] Re: QE I -
	how tall?
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 --- Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk> wrote: > >I've  also
heard the theory that extant(?) garments/clothing were items
> that
> were for unusual shaped/sized people. And for whatever reason were not cut
> down or remade
> 
> I tend to believe extant garment were either special garments or those that
> could not be cut down further, of course this is a generalisation.

I agree Mel, just look a things like the Isham clothes and especially the
wedding suit, which survived pristinely, because poor Sir Isham died two days
before his wedding.
Just talking of 17th c. clothes: This is why it is so difficult to find any
examples of bogstandard every-day clothing, and that's why I love the findings
of garments that were incorporated in houses. Then you may have bog finds, as
well as extraordinarily preserved graves - some with clothing in some parts of
the world, but rarely, because it was not the custom in that period to bury
people in their clothes, but in a fine shroud, and so on.
I wish I could find a whole set of English middling working class everyday
clothes. :-)

Nicole

=====
Men Die. Cattle Die. Word-Fame Lives Forever.   ~ Old Norse Aphorism

Email: nicole@kipar.org
URL: http://www.kipar.org

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>Just talking of 17th c. clothes: This is why it is so difficult to find any
examples of bogstandard every-day clothing, and that's why I love the
findings
of garments that were incorporated in houses.

Oh yes have you read about the project detailing those ? Apparently builders
are still really supersticious about them and rarely tell anyone !

> Then you may have bog finds, as
well as extraordinarily preserved graves - some with clothing in some parts
of
the world, but rarely, because it was not the custom in that period to bury
people in their clothes, but in a fine shroud, and so on.

Yes it is so rare and often as in clothed graves (eg Pagan Anglo Saxons) we
cannot be sure this was an everyday costume rather than a burial costume.

>I wish I could find a whole set of English middling working class everyday
clothes. :-)

Dream on ;)

Mel



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Subject: [h-cost] OT: Thank you!!!!!
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I know this is off-topic but we wanted to thank everyone!  Many people on
h-costume supported the project.  You are angels!

Several of you adopted critters for my son, Patrick's Eagle Scout project a
few months ago.  The critters went to the children cancer patients at the
Medical College of Virginia's Research Hospital (MCV) in Richmond, Virginia.
Patrick wanted to have something for the children to cuddle while they were
in pain and going through treatments.

Individuals, businesses, and college clubs sent donations of $10 per critter
to purchase the kit to make the critters.  Patrick directed his Boy Scout
troop in assembling and stuffing the animals.   Each critter has a story
book with a place for a guardian angel's name to be written.  Several people
wanted the children's guardian angels to be former scouts, friends or
relatives who have had cancer, or just themselves.

We are very pleased to announce that Patrick delivered 62 critters on June
25 to the MCV's Director of Volunteers. She said, "This is such a great gift
to the children.  The children have been asking us for a stuffed animal for
weeks
and we had run out of them.  This will make many children happy."

You can see photos at Pat with all the critters:
http://www.costumegallery.com/Pat/EagleScout/Project/critters.jpg
http://www.costumegallery.com/Pat/EagleScout/Project/critters2.jpg

Pat delivering the critters to the Director of Volunteer Services at MCV:
http://www.costumegallery.com/Pat/EagleScout/Project/critters3.jpg
The trash bag to Pat's right is full of critters.  He delivered three bags
full of critters.

Many, many thanks to the people with kind hearts who helped with Patrick's
Eagle Scout Project.  Thank you to those who sent letters of support!  He is
in the process of submitting his final paperwork and his final Board of
Review for Eagle Scout.  Hopefully by September, Patrick will receive his
final approval to be an Eagle Scout.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 16 04:55:48 2003
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Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 09:51:48 +0100
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] Re: average height
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Gail wrote:

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> 
No one has said it, so I thought I'd remind anyone thinking about the
average height of European populations that during the times that the
average size was smaller than ours, there would still be a range
similar to
ours. In other words, there WERE tall people. Just not as many of them.

>>>

That is what I meant to imply in my earlier comment. The fact that
Lalah is tall despite having had childhood illnesses doesn't disprove
the theory that immunisation may be a factor in the *average* height of
today's young people being greater.
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 16 05:41:25 2003
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From: "Dawn Wood" <dawn@agesofelegance.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: 
	<c1.3425249d.2c45c4b0@aol.com><021e01c34b5a$bf527d60$0400a8c0@comcast.net>
	<200307160136.22252.cathy@thyrsus.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Average Height
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 10:37:37 +0100
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I suspect this has a lot to do with hormones in food as much as anything
else several of my friends daughters have started theirs by the age of 10

Dawn
Ages Of Elegance makers of Historical reproduction Clothing, Uniforms and
Bridalwear
 http://www.agesofelegance.co.uk 0113 277 6716
, girls' body are
> > maturing at a faster rate that 25 years ago.  Most girls are starting
their
> > period now between the age of 11-13 y.o.   This is also backed up with
> > better nutrition.
>


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 16 05:45:39 2003
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From: Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
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Subject: [h-cost] Corset of Dorothea Sabina 1598
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Hi,

I am working on a corset from the pattern of the corset of Dorothea 
Sabina from the book Patterns of fashion of Janet Arnold.
The corset fits me suprisingly well. But I had to enlarge the pattern an 
extra 40%, she was very tiny.
I made the corset out of two layers of linnen and used reeds as boning.
The corset is very comfortable and gives a nice smooth line.
It is not completely finished but you can see some pictures here.
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Bluedress/Bluedress.html

Greetings,
        Deredere


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Ripping corsets?
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>Doesn't that sort of problem mean it was laced too tightly in the first
>place?

Not necessarily.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 16 07:52:02 2003
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From: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1940s House
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 06:48:58 -0500
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We live in a house built in the '20s. After 25 years of the former
owners covering all the history with thick paints, we're trying to get
it back, as close as we can, to it's original state. I've never hot
gunned so much thick paint in my life!!! 

I've always been a '40's body. I even look just like my grandmother and
would give anything to have all those dresses she wore! In the '70s when
it was cool to dress "in costume" I wore a lot of '40s style clothing -
with my jeans...you remember?

GRITS Rule
Girls Raised In The South


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-admin@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-admin@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Jean Waddie
Sent: Saturday, November 23, 2002 4:50 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Cc: Lalah T Tillinghast
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1940s House


Linda Krecker-Schkred <rhianwen@optonline.net> wrote
>I still live in a home from the 40's. This house was built by my
>in-Laws. The floors are still the same. No additions have been made.The

>kitchen and bathroom are still the same. Talk about the epitome of 
>inefficiency. But I do love the clothes from that period. Only my body 
>type wasn't built for that decade. I'm better suited for the 20's.
>
>What about the rest of you. What is your best time period per your body

>type?
>
>Linda K-S
>
Used to be 20s or 60s - slim and boyish - but getting more 50s every 
year :-(

Jean

-- 
Jean Waddie
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corset of Dorothea Sabina 1598
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> I made the corset out of two layers of linnen and used reeds as boning.
> The corset is very comfortable and gives a nice smooth line.
> It is not completely finished but you can see some pictures here.
> http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Bluedress/Bluedress.html

Looking good:) Can't wait to see the whole thing:)

Actually I'm thinking I might make this corset myself, actually use the
whole outfit as patterned for an outfit I'm planning on making. I just got a
relook at the book last night and realised it would just need some tweaking
for a project I'm planing on.

Of course I'm a totally different shape to her and you so it'll require some
fiddling.

Actually there was a nice surprise at the back of the book. Ther eis a
petticoat skirt thing made from straight widths of fabric. That was really
very interesting as the rest are all shaped even slightly (ie even the
closest to the idea were a few widths sewn together then the sides shpaed
and the hem too).
It reminded me a lot of the skirts of the 1840s where the hem was all one
level and all the adjusting for height was done at the waist.

michaela
http://costumes.glittersweet.com
still focused at the start of the 16thC still, and with all the wonderful
allegorical paintings am likely to stay there for some time.. besides this
one project;)


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 16 09:01:11 2003
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From: "Beteena Paradise" <bkessinger@ureach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20030716034255.28492.qmail@web11407.mail.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval pins
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 08:54:01 -0400
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Status: RO

Actually they do have some "adult" pilgrim badges in a specially marked
area. But they are period, believe it or not.

And I really miss living in San Francisco (but not for that reason!).

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Brainard" <marcocaprioli@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2003 11:42 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval pins


> fettered cock? sounds more like an associate of Mr.S (well known
> leather shop in the Castro--I'm sure Heather lives across the street or
> something)
>
> J.
>
>
> --- Beteena Paradise <bkessinger@ureach.com> wrote:
> > Someone was asking about vendors for medieval pins. Fettered Cock
> > Pewters
> > sells two styles. One is a quatrefoil and the other is an acorn. They
> > are at
> > the bottom of this page:
> >
> > http://www.fetteredcockpewters.com/page_various_sundry.htm
> >
> > Teena
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
> http://sbc.yahoo.com
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
>

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 16 09:19:55 2003
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Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 14:16:23 +0100
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Doublets-n-kirtles-n-skirts, oh my!
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I have a question for those ladies who say they always stitch their
bodices to their "skirts". How do you get into the resulting
combination? Does it assume that both garments open at the back?

I do 1630s/40s, and as these styles are somewhat high-waisted it would
be handy to have the two parts attached, so as to avoid gaps. However, I
normally make my bodices front-opening (for convenience) and skirts
opening at the right side (for easy access to a tied-on pocket
underneath). I have used hooks in the past, but that means a further
complication to an outfit that's already slow and laborious to put on.

Comments, anyone?

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby
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From: KATHRYN WOLTERS <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corset of Dorothea Sabina 1598
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hi Deredere-----very nice progress that you are aking! The corste looks very nice.I was also very interested in the 'testers' for the embroidery bits.Is that gold bullion you are using?
Albra

Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl> wrote:
Hi,

I am working on a corset from the pattern of the corset of Dorothea 
Sabina from the book Patterns of fashion of Janet Arnold.
The corset fits me suprisingly well. But I had to enlarge the pattern an 
extra 40%, she was very tiny.
I made the corset out of two layers of linnen and used reeds as boning.
The corset is very comfortable and gives a nice smooth line.
It is not completely finished but you can see some pictures here.
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Bluedress/Bluedress.html

Greetings,
Deredere


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 16 09:52:08 2003
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Hi,

It is just brass wire :-)

KATHRYN WOLTERS wrote:

>Hi Deredere-----very nice progress that you are aking! The corste looks very nice.I was also very interested in the 'testers' for the embroidery bits.Is that gold bullion you are using?
>Albra
>
>Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl> wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I am working on a corset from the pattern of the corset of Dorothea 
>Sabina from the book Patterns of fashion of Janet Arnold.
>The corset fits me suprisingly well. But I had to enlarge the pattern an 
>extra 40%, she was very tiny.
>I made the corset out of two layers of linnen and used reeds as boning.
>The corset is very comfortable and gives a nice smooth line.
>It is not completely finished but you can see some pictures here.
>http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Bluedress/Bluedress.html
>
>Greetings,
>Deredere
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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>---------------------------------
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>
>  
>



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From: eirenetz@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval pins
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 13:51:48 +0000
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Any idea how to get hold of Fettered Cock? The e-mail contact has bounced since 
the beginning of June. I've got a list of things I want to purchase from them, 
but until I can make contact...

Eirene

> > --- Beteena Paradise <bkessinger@ureach.com> wrote:
> > > Someone was asking about vendors for medieval pins. Fettered Cock
> > > Pewters
> > > sells two styles. One is a quatrefoil and the other is an acorn. They
> > > are at
> > > the bottom of this page:
> > >
> > > http://www.fetteredcockpewters.com/page_various_sundry.htm
> > >
> > > Teena
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list

> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >
> > __________________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
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> >
> >
> 
> _______________________________________________
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From: KATHRYN WOLTERS <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corset of Dorothea Sabina 1598
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Whooo---brass will probably tarnish---have you thought of using gold bullion? That would be absolutely stunning, if you did!
Albra

Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl> wrote:
Hi,

It is just brass wire :-)

KATHRYN WOLTERS wrote:

>Hi Deredere-----very nice progress that you are aking! The corste looks very nice.I was also very interested in the 'testers' for the embroidery bits.Is that gold bullion you are using?
>Albra
>
>Deredere Galbraith wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I am working on a corset from the pattern of the corset of Dorothea 
>Sabina from the book Patterns of fashion of Janet Arnold.
>The corset fits me suprisingly well. But I had to enlarge the pattern an 
>extra 40%, she was very tiny.
>I made the corset out of two layers of linnen and used reeds as boning.
>The corset is very comfortable and gives a nice smooth line.
>It is not completely finished but you can see some pictures here.
>http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Bluedress/Bluedress.html
>
>Greetings,
>Deredere
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>---------------------------------
>Do you Yahoo!?
>SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
>_______________________________________________
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>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> 
>



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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 16 10:20:43 2003
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Hey! It looks really good!
What will you be using for the busk point?
--sue, having fun romping around in other centuries....

Deredere Galbraith wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I am working on a corset from the pattern of the corset of Dorothea
> Sabina from the book Patterns of fashion of Janet Arnold.
> The corset fits me suprisingly well. But I had to enlarge the pattern an
> extra 40%, she was very tiny.
> I made the corset out of two layers of linnen and used reeds as boning.
> The corset is very comfortable and gives a nice smooth line.
> It is not completely finished but you can see some pictures here.
> http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Bluedress/Bluedress.html
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 16 10:33:21 2003
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From: "Betsy Marshall" <betsy@softwareinnovation.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Corset of Dorothea Sabina 1598
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There is also a substance known as "gold-filled" wire- many jewelers use
it for wire-wrap jewelry styles. It's much nicer than the "Gold-plated"
and much cheaper than solid gold, even 9 or 10 carat. 

Try a Google search for "wire wrap jewelry supplies" or similar, that
should keep you busy for a while!

Hoping to help- Betsy

(FYI- 9 carat-that is 9 out of 24 parts of the alloy is gold and the
rest is not- copper, silver, zinc, nickel mixtures are used depending on
the final utilization of the metal. 10 carat is the least purity of gold
alloy that can be advertised in the US as "Gold" jewelry, IIRC! 12 carat
is half gold and 24 is pure gold- not often seen in Jewelry as it is TOO
soft to stand up to daily wear and tear, 22 carat is popular as an
investment grade piece, 18 is prevalent at Fine Jewelers, and 14 carat
is what you'll mostly find at the retail chain/mall stores-<Painting in
very broad strokes here, please nobody get offended by my
over-generalizations!>)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of KATHRYN WOLTERS
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2003 9:06 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corset of Dorothea Sabina 1598

Whooo---brass will probably tarnish---have you thought of using gold
bullion? That would be absolutely stunning, if you did!
Albra

Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl> wrote:
Hi,

It is just brass wire :-)

KATHRYN WOLTERS wrote:

>Hi Deredere-----very nice progress that you are aking! The corste looks
very nice.I was also very interested in the 'testers' for the embroidery
bits.Is that gold bullion you are using?
>Albra
>
>Deredere Galbraith wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I am working on a corset from the pattern of the corset of Dorothea 
>Sabina from the book Patterns of fashion of Janet Arnold.
>The corset fits me suprisingly well. But I had to enlarge the pattern
an 
>extra 40%, she was very tiny.
>I made the corset out of two layers of linnen and used reeds as boning.
>The corset is very comfortable and gives a nice smooth line.
>It is not completely finished but you can see some pictures here.
>http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Bluedress/Bluedress.html
>
>Greetings,
>Deredere
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>---------------------------------
>Do you Yahoo!?
>SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
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>
> 
>



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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 16 10:38:38 2003
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Average Height
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On Tuesday, July 15, 2003, at 10:26  PM, Penny Ladnier wrote:

> Actually for the past 25 years, girls have been getting taller in the 
> U.S.
> It is attributed to better food and availability.  Girls in general do 
> the
> majority of their growing between the ages of 11-13.  My youngest 
> sister was
> 6' by 12 years old.  According to our pediatrician, girls' body are 
> maturing
> at a faster rate that 25 years ago.  Most girls are starting their 
> period
> now between the age of 11-13 y.o.   This is also backed up with better
> nutrition.

Actually, Americans have overall pretty poor nutrition, except that 
it's in overconsumption of rich foods, rather than underconsumption in 
general.  I haven't studied nutrition all that much, but I do know that 
at least some of this business of girls maturing younger than 
previously is in some part due to a diet that includes a lot of 
"estrogenizing" highly fatty foods.  And I think the 11-13 age of onset 
of menses is really younger now.  There are quite a few 8 year old 
girls out there starting their periods, a phenomenon particularly found 
in African American girls (I'm not sure why, but I remember reading 
about it in Discover a couple years back).  In my generation (born in 
the mid-70's), girls were starting their periods around 12-15 years 
old.  My fiance was telling me that at the school where he was teaching 
last year it wasn't odd to see third grade girls starting their periods.

Obligatory costume content?  Uhhh...  ;)

Sarah

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 16 10:41:02 2003
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From: Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corset of Dorothea Sabina 1598
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Sounds interesting.
The gold bullion is expensive and I am looking for cheeper options

Greetings,
        Deredere

Betsy Marshall wrote:

>There is also a substance known as "gold-filled" wire- many jewelers use
>it for wire-wrap jewelry styles. It's much nicer than the "Gold-plated"
>and much cheaper than solid gold, even 9 or 10 carat. 
>
>Try a Google search for "wire wrap jewelry supplies" or similar, that
>should keep you busy for a while!
>
>Hoping to help- Betsy
>
>(FYI- 9 carat-that is 9 out of 24 parts of the alloy is gold and the
>rest is not- copper, silver, zinc, nickel mixtures are used depending on
>the final utilization of the metal. 10 carat is the least purity of gold
>alloy that can be advertised in the US as "Gold" jewelry, IIRC! 12 carat
>is half gold and 24 is pure gold- not often seen in Jewelry as it is TOO
>soft to stand up to daily wear and tear, 22 carat is popular as an
>investment grade piece, 18 is prevalent at Fine Jewelers, and 14 carat
>is what you'll mostly find at the retail chain/mall stores-<Painting in
>very broad strokes here, please nobody get offended by my
>over-generalizations!>)
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
>On Behalf Of KATHRYN WOLTERS
>Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2003 9:06 AM
>To: Historical Costume
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corset of Dorothea Sabina 1598
>
>Whooo---brass will probably tarnish---have you thought of using gold
>bullion? That would be absolutely stunning, if you did!
>Albra
>
>Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl> wrote:
>Hi,
>
>It is just brass wire :-)
>
>KATHRYN WOLTERS wrote:
>
>  
>
>>Hi Deredere-----very nice progress that you are aking! The corste looks
>>    
>>
>very nice.I was also very interested in the 'testers' for the embroidery
>bits.Is that gold bullion you are using?
>  
>
>>Albra
>>
>>Deredere Galbraith wrote:
>>Hi,
>>
>>I am working on a corset from the pattern of the corset of Dorothea 
>>Sabina from the book Patterns of fashion of Janet Arnold.
>>The corset fits me suprisingly well. But I had to enlarge the pattern
>>    
>>
>an 
>  
>
>>extra 40%, she was very tiny.
>>I made the corset out of two layers of linnen and used reeds as boning.
>>The corset is very comfortable and gives a nice smooth line.
>>It is not completely finished but you can see some pictures here.
>>http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Bluedress/Bluedress.html
>>
>>Greetings,
>>Deredere
>>
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>---------------------------------
>>Do you Yahoo!?
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 16 10:49:39 2003
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From: Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corset of Dorothea Sabina 1598
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Hi,

I don't know yet. I am not even sure I am going to put a busk in the corset.
The strange thing is, is that Janet Arnold sayd that there was a busk 
but doesn't say how you are supposed to put it in the corset.
And it is working well witout the busk.
Would the busk be sewn in to the corset or should it be easy to remove 
it from the coset??
What I heard is that the busk normally was put in a poket and then tied 
to the corset on the top so it wouldn't come out.
Here there are no lacingholes at the top of the corset. There are holes 
at the end of the point, but they are to close to the edge to work.

Mmmm... it is hot and my brains aren't working very wel ;-)

Greetings,
        Deredere

Sue Clemenger wrote:

>Hey! It looks really good!
>What will you be using for the busk point?
>--sue, having fun romping around in other centuries....
>
>Deredere Galbraith wrote:
>  
>
>>Hi,
>>
>>I am working on a corset from the pattern of the corset of Dorothea
>>Sabina from the book Patterns of fashion of Janet Arnold.
>>The corset fits me suprisingly well. But I had to enlarge the pattern an
>>extra 40%, she was very tiny.
>>I made the corset out of two layers of linnen and used reeds as boning.
>>The corset is very comfortable and gives a nice smooth line.
>>It is not completely finished but you can see some pictures here.
>>http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Bluedress/Bluedress.html
>>    
>>
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 16 10:57:41 2003
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From: "Beteena Paradise" <bkessinger@ureach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <200307161351.h6GDpvxS007916@net.indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval pins
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 10:50:11 -0400
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I asked them a question once and the response came from this email. Maybe
try it?

kes@fetteredcockpewters.com

Good luck!


----- Original Message -----
From: <eirenetz@comcast.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2003 9:51 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval pins


> Any idea how to get hold of Fettered Cock? The e-mail contact has bounced
since
> the beginning of June. I've got a list of things I want to purchase from
them,
> but until I can make contact...
>
> Eirene
>
> > > --- Beteena Paradise <bkessinger@ureach.com> wrote:
> > > > Someone was asking about vendors for medieval pins. Fettered Cock
> > > > Pewters
> > > > sells two styles. One is a quatrefoil and the other is an acorn.
They
> > > > are at
> > > > the bottom of this page:
> > > >
> > > > http://www.fetteredcockpewters.com/page_various_sundry.htm
> > > >
> > > > Teena
> > > >
> > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > h-costume mailing list
>
> > > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 16 11:45:26 2003
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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Corset of Dorothea Sabina 1598
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 08:40:28 -0700
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Here there are no lacingholes at the top of the corset. There are holes 
at the end of the point, but they are to close to the edge to work.


[Sg] Maybe it tied at the bottom?  Yours looks great!  Aren't they
comfortable? Mine is.  I just boned the center part of mine, and it gives me
the shape I wanted perfectly.


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 16 12:07:12 2003
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corset of Dorothea Sabina 1598
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Deja vu.  We just had a discussion of this on another list only a few 
days ago.  Someone mentioned that the lacing holes on the corset match 
with a set of eyelets on the point of the doublet and theorized that 
they might have been pointed together.  This brought up a good question 
as to how the corset might have been worn (ie. under the doublet, but 
over the skirts, etc).  So far no one has offered a good argument 
either way, but it is curious that the eyelets on the corset that are 
supposedly for a busk match up with a set on the doublet and Janet 
Arnold managed to overlook it.

Sarah


On Wednesday, July 16, 2003, at 08:40  AM, Saragrace T. Knauf wrote:

> Here there are no lacingholes at the top of the corset. There are holes
> at the end of the point, but they are to close to the edge to work.
>
>
> [Sg] Maybe it tied at the bottom?  Yours looks great!  Aren't they
> comfortable? Mine is.  I just boned the center part of mine, and it 
> gives me
> the shape I wanted perfectly.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
>

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In a message dated 7/16/2003 11:03:01 AM Central Standard Time, 
sarah@elizabethanlady.com writes:

> but it is curious that the eyelets on the corset that are 
> supposedly for a busk match up with a set on the doublet and Janet 
> Arnold managed to overlook it.
> 

Hell, Janet Arnold managed to overlook that the length of Alcega's 
farthingale matched the length of every kirtle skirt in the whole book...she assumed 
that it was so long because of the tucks...but all the skirts are 49.5 inches 
long. Go figure. 

-Sarra Wryght
Elizabethan Dress Journals: http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/index.html
Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dawn Jacobson <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pirates Costume Question
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At 03:46 PM 7/15/2003 +0000, Jessica wrote:
>Yes, I think you may be right.  Confused costumer and creative license 
>probably had a huge part in this decision.  I guess if you are the type of 
>person who is of the adament belief that the corset is uncomfortable you 
>might not have enough foresight to realize that that lacing on the shift's 
>sleeves is going to be even more uncomfortable then the corset.  I just 
>kept thinking about her dress sleeves pushing that lacing into her flesh 
>and every time she would move her arm, skin would get pinched in between 
>the loose lacing.  I have to wonder about people that don't realize that 
>value of comfort.
>
>Anyway... until I'm making costumes for big movies...  I'll just have to 
>be satisfied with watching and thinking about the why's.

If Disney exerts the same control over the "look" of films with their own 
name (as opposed to Touchstone or Buena Vista) as they do with other forms 
of media, then the "why" is that the costumer was told by the Disney people 
that it will have a look that goes with the ride at the theme park, be 
tasteful, and not offend *anybody.*

Disney exerts tremendous power over people doing design work for them, so 
that everything that is connected with their name has that "Disney" look. 
They produce big design guideline books, and usually have final approval on 
everything, so the final authority for the costume designs was not the 
designer, the director, or the producer: it was somebody sitting in an 
office in Burbank that works for the corporation. Not exactly the most 
creative atmosphere, but it guarantees that if it says "Disney" on it, it 
will be wholesome family entertainment with a certain look.

Dawn

Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are the costumes we wear every day. 
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Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 10:12:34 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dawn Jacobson <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Doublets-n-kirtles-n-skirts, oh my!
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At 01:40 PM 7/15/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>In a message dated 7/15/2003 12:10:42 PM Central Standard Time,
>kat@grendal.rain.com writes:
>
> > Are you saying that despite that, and despite the existance of extant
> > separate doublets, that they would have sewn/tacked them together
> > always?
> >
>
>Drea pointed out that doublets and high bodied gowns aren't exactly the same
>thing. Anything that says "gown" is most likely sewn together. Kirtles
>generally have bodices. The kirtles in Alcega are meant to be sewn 
>together, the only
>mention of a waist band is for the circular skirts, which are basically
>petticoats to be worn under the outer garments for warmth and to fluff 
>them out.
>Most of the skirts in PoF have a distinct slant to the CF which implies 
>they are
>shaped to the bodice point in the front.   One skirt even has the jig-jag
>look of pleats cut to meet the bottom of the bodice. With the exception of
>doublets and jerkins, it makes very little sense to make a bodice and skirt
>seperately (if you're tacking them together, then they are now a gown and one
>garment). Every single person I know who's ever made a bodice AND skirt 
>outfit, had to
>put hooks along the waistband of the skirt and the bottom of the bodice to
>make it look right. Why bother with that?

And now you know of at least 1 person who didn't have to. Me.

Admittedly, it's been a number of years since I built an English 
Elizabethan (I'm doing different times/styles now), but I've never had to 
put hooks at the waistband, simply because I cut the bodice about 1/2" 
longer. Once it's finished, it's long enough that it is slightly longer 
than the length to the bottom of the waistband, and is on the skirt 
material (just a tiny bit!) itself. As I'm a firm believer in, "If it 
moves, flat-line it; if it still moves, bone it!", I've always lightly 
boned my bodices with 1/4" flat steels. The bodice stays put.

Dawn

Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are the costumes we wear every day. 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corset of Dorothea Sabina 1598
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I love her books but no one is without mistakes.
There is a small mistake in the corset pattern. The piece of strap wich 
has an angle at one side schould be pointing towards the neck.
When I saw the original corset I forgot to look at many things. I 
realised that when I was working on the corset.
I wonder how close she could examen the dress and if the corset was 
there to.
The dress is in the museum but the corset is in the archieves...

Greetings,
        Deredere

Sarah wrote:

> Deja vu.  We just had a discussion of this on another list only a few 
> days ago.  Someone mentioned that the lacing holes on the corset match 
> with a set of eyelets on the point of the doublet and theorized that 
> they might have been pointed together.  This brought up a good 
> question as to how the corset might have been worn (ie. under the 
> doublet, but over the skirts, etc).  So far no one has offered a good 
> argument either way, but it is curious that the eyelets on the corset 
> that are supposedly for a busk match up with a set on the doublet and 
> Janet Arnold managed to overlook it.
>
> Sarah
>



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Subject: [h-cost] Kilt pattern
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Howdy folks,

I have been asked to make a kilt by several people. Apparently there is some 
party or some event coming up that has to do with clans and kilts and such.

I only know enough about kilts to be dangerous.

I do know if I make one I want it to be reasonably right. Nine yards is just 
too much, however.

Is there an expectable pattern that would not make a Scott gag? I know one of 
the guys will be wearing the linen, late 18th/early 19th century shirt I made 
him. Is there a pattern from this period that is not so full and more 
controlled than a belt holding pleats?

No one seems to want a jacket of any kind [damn!]....it is not a formal 
event.
 How about sporrans? [something that "saves" a kilt, IMHO. It kills the 
Catholic school girl image.....that and a long red beard.]

Help me make the guys look good and not clueless! No one wants "Brigadoon"!

Albert "If it's not Scottish....IT'S CRAP!" Cat
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kilt pattern
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>Nine yards is just
too much, however.

You could try less 4-5 metres. wee kilts really need very heavy wool to work

>How about sporrans

I have some sporrans what is your budget ?

Mel


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>Not exactly the most creative atmosphere, but it guarantees that if it 
>says "Disney" on it, it will be wholesome family entertainment with a 
>certain look.

And suitable to bring your kids to go see.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: [h-cost] Pirates of the Caribbean
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<snip>

If Disney exerts the same control over the "look" of films with their own
name (as opposed to Touchstone or Buena Vista) as they do with other forms
of media, then the "why" is that the costumer was told by the Disney people
that it will have a look that goes with the ride at the theme park, be
tasteful, and not offend *anybody.*

Disney exerts tremendous power over people doing design work for them, so
that everything that is connected with their name has that "Disney" look.
They produce big design guideline books, and usually have final approval on
everything, so the final authority for the costume designs was not the
designer, the director, or the producer: it was somebody sitting in an
office in Burbank that works for the corporation. Not exactly the most
creative atmosphere, but it guarantees that if it says "Disney" on it, it
will be wholesome family entertainment with a certain look.

<unsnip>

Of course Disney exerts huge control over their movies, and costumes are 
just one area that fall under their creative control.  A costume designer on 
a film rarely ever works autonomously, with complete artistic freedom.  Most 
of the time, costume design is part of a collaborative effort, and 
especially on a major feature, it has to fit into the director's idea, and 
the producer's idea, as well as the production designer's idea of the film.

In this case they are adapting a film from a very popular ride.  No doubt 
there are rabid fans of the Pirates of the Caribbean ride.  Disney probably 
wants to keep those fans very happy, in the same way that the Lord of the 
Rings movie could not radically redesign the whole story.  The fans would 
not put up with it.

And yes, this is pure, escapist fantasy.  No doubt the costumes give the 
fantastical impression of pirates and wenches.  It doesn't reflect the 
reality of costumes of the time... or hygiene ... or class structure ... or 
any reality.

Back to lurking, great list everyone!

Moira

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 16 15:19:43 2003
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Carako Jacket?
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Hi..........
First i want to thanks all those of you who helped me so generously with
informations and tips about Carako Jackets.
I have ben very buisy sewing:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/caraco_jacket.htm
Well not entirely, but today i was on a lovely trip, biking to Jegersborg
Dyrehave, where i visited Eremitage Slottet. Eremitage Castle, wich is not
like the real Heremitage at Sct. Petersburg, but only a small hunting castle
in the woods.
The deers there, are quite tame, and not afraid of people, so you can pass
them without them notice you, quite wonderfull.
Otherwise, i am afraid i have to go back to my work tomorrow, and then i
only have the evenings and 3 days next week, to finish this outfit. I have a
hat to make, and a blue cartridge pleated skirt. Luckily a skirt is not
complicated to make..................
Thanks for your help, and sorry i have ben much two buisy to stay long on
the list..........
Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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	Wed, 16 Jul 2003 12:17:57 PDT
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 12:17:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dawn Jacobson <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Need quick 1920s underpinning help
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I'm trying to find (quickly!) an all-in-one body
shaper that will minimize the bust to wear under a
(copy) 1928 tea frock. It seems that that was the
solution for the "woman with the generous figure
trying to achieve the desired boyish look called for
by modish fashions," (1927 Sears catalog), but most of
the ones I've seen recently don't minimize the bust.

Any ideas on where to look? Thanks!

Dawn

=====
Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are just the costumes we wear every day.
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Subject: [h-cost] Kilt
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I think Folkwear Patterns have a complete Scottish package with kilts in the contemporary style.


                             Anna
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From: "Suzanne" <suzanne@grannd.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Kilt
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 16:14:11 -0400
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Pattern number 152 in Folkwear. We carry it among others :)

Suzanne
Grannd Companies
www.grannd.com


> I think Folkwear Patterns have a complete Scottish package with 
> kilts in the contemporary style.
> 
> 
>                              Anna


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From: "Suzanne" <suzanne@grannd.com>
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Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 16:18:39 -0400
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Subject: [h-cost] ADV Grand Opening of Costume Supply Shope
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Hopefully this will be excused, however since it does apply to the list and
I do know quite a few of you out there, I wanted to let everyone know that
our new store is having it's grand opening events.

Saturday, July 19th from 11:00 am until 7:00 pm
and again on
Sunday, July 27th from 12:00 pm until 5:00 pm


For extra fun, we are taking 10% off all orders over $20 if you come in full
costume. (Sorry, simply a mask or hat won't do...we want to see what you can
do with these supplies.)

See our website for more information and link to a map.

Suzanne
Grannd Companies
295 Main Street
South River NJ  08882
732-390-0506
FAX 732-390-1694
http://www.grannd.com



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: QE I - how tall?
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<<<How do you know that you wouldn't been *taller* if you had not had
German measles, three day measles, mumps, chicken pox, whooping cough?>>>

        God forbid!!!  I was taller than everyone in my class while
growing up and could never buy any clothes "off the rack"  that fit.  

Lalah
Never give up, Never surrender
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 16 17:46:04 2003
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: height
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Lalah,

Have to laugh at you girl!!!!!  All of my siblings and I had all these
diseases as children except whooping cough.  Hmmm... could we have been all
7-8 ft tall if we didn't get the diseases.  We couldn't buy clothing off the
rack either.

My mother used to say that we grew so tall because we played and worked
hard, everyone ate at least a teaspoon of dirt as a toddler, and we all went
barefooted nine months out of the year.

Now I will confess, I did make mudpies frequently and feed them to my little
brother who grew up to be 7 ft. tall.  Maybe that Mississippi Mud has
something special in it!

Does anyone remember the Kellogg's Corn Flakes commercials that said, "If
you eat Corn Flakes, you will grow as tall as corn."  Then they showed a big
field of tall corn.  When people would make comments to my Mom about how
tall we were, she would say, "They ate lots of Corn Flakes."  Actually we
didn't... bacon, eggs, grits, and biscuits was more like it... everyday.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pirates Costume Question
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 19:37:24 -0400
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On Wednesday 16 July 2003 12:58 pm, Dawn Jacobson wrote:
> At 03:46 PM 7/15/2003 +0000, Jessica wrote:
> >Yes, I think you may be right.  Confused costumer and creative license
> >probably had a huge part in this decision.  I guess if you are the type of
> >person who is of the adament belief that the corset is uncomfortable you
> >might not have enough foresight to realize that that lacing on the shift's
> >sleeves is going to be even more uncomfortable then the corset. 

Even if that didn't happen, the cord was quite thick, and would hurt where it 
was pushed into the skin.  

Those sleeves are the stupidest thing I've ever seen in any kind of costume, 
ever.

[text cut here]
>
> Disney exerts tremendous power over people doing design work for them, so
> that everything that is connected with their name has that "Disney" look.
> They produce big design guideline books, and usually have final approval on
> everything, so the final authority for the costume designs was not the
> designer, the director, or the producer: it was somebody sitting in an
> office in Burbank that works for the corporation. Not exactly the most
> creative atmosphere, but it guarantees that if it says "Disney" on it, it
> will be wholesome family entertainment with a certain look.

Though I don't see why sleeves laced to the shoulder are more "wholesome" or 
"family" than simple straight ones....

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
 
"You live and learn, or you don't live long."
 Robert Heinlein

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 16 19:47:34 2003
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Carako Jacket?
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On Wednesday 16 July 2003 03:04 pm, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> Hi..........
> First i want to thanks all those of you who helped me so generously with
> informations and tips about Carako Jackets.
> I have ben very buisy sewing:
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/caraco_jacket.htm

It's breath-taking, Bjarne.  I envy you your ability to sew--and your patience 
with the details.



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
 
"You live and learn, or you don't live long."
 Robert Heinlein

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On Wednesday 16 July 2003 02:38 am, Penny Ladnier wrote:
> Cathy,
>
> Men do gain a lot in chest size in their 20s and 30s.  This is when their
> shoulders get broad.

I knew there were other examples, but if it's as common for this to happen as 
you suggest, I'm surprised it isn't a better known fact.

>
> We have a photo taken of my 15 y.o. son on the platform for swimming.  He
> was in position to dive.  I was floored to see all the muscles in his upper
> body.
>
> Swimmers male and female generally have broader shoulders.  My son and
> daughter have been competitive swimming for the past five years.  My 11
> y.o. daughter has swimmer's shoulders this year.  Now I understand why
> women's competitive swim suits are cut the way they are.

That doesn't surprise me.  For men, the more you use your muscles the bigger 
they get.  The same is somewhat true of women, but the effect is less 
pronounced because of the difference in hormonal balance.


>
> I was watching ESPN tonight with the women's water polo event.  My
> goodness, these women's shoulder's were are broad as men's.  Then I watched
> the synicized (sp) ladies swimming and men's diving.  Their shoulders were
> not as large.  I guess they don't have to do endurance swimming like lap
> swimming.

See above.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
 
"You live and learn, or you don't live long."
 Robert Heinlein

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>This is when their
> shoulders get broad.

Help ! if this is in everycase my son will never fit through doors by the
time he is 20-30 :)

>For men, the more you use your muscles the bigger
they get.

Not necessarily it depends on the type of work and the person, I know many
tiny unmuscular (looking) farmers and climbers who are very strong.

>The same is somewhat true of women, but the effect is less
pronounced because of the difference in hormonal balance.

The differance in work applies here too I think.

Mel



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	-how tall?
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>From: "Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk>
>>Just talking of 17th c. clothes: This is why it is so difficult to find 
>>any
>>examples of bogstandard every-day clothing, and that's why I love the
>>findingsof garments that were incorporated in houses.
>Oh yes have you read about the project detailing those ? Apparently 
>builders
>are still really supersticious about them and rarely tell anyone !

You know, I'm aware that this is the current belief - and a lot of people 
have been -told- that this was the reason that it certainly IS a reason now, 
but I haven't seen convincing evidence that says the reason things were 
concealed was for superstitious reasons in the past.

Sorry, pet peeve.

Marc

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>You know, I'm aware that this is the current belief - and a lot of people
have been -told- that this was the reason that it certainly IS a reason now,
but I haven't seen convincing evidence that says the reason things were
concealed was for superstitious reasons in the past.

Sorry are you saying you don't believe they hide clothing due to
superstision in the past ?

I've no idea one way or the other, but I do wonder why else would you hide
it ?

Here is the site I read it on
http://www.concealedgarments.org/information/what_dcg.html Maybe they have
some basis for the suggestion

Mel

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On Wednesday 16 July 2003 08:00 pm, Melanie Wilson wrote:
> >This is when their
> > shoulders get broad.
>
> Help ! if this is in everycase my son will never fit through doors by the
> time he is 20-30 :)
>
> >For men, the more you use your muscles the bigger
> they get.
>
> Not necessarily it depends on the type of work and the person, I know many
> tiny unmuscular (looking) farmers and climbers who are very strong.

I accept your correction.  I was making a generalization, and as a lawyer I 
should have remembered Oliver Wendell Holmes' remark that generalizations are 
no good--including this one.  :-)

>
> >The same is somewhat true of women, but the effect is less
> pronounced because of the difference in hormonal balance.
>
> The differance in work applies here too I think.

But there I was talking about women and men both engaged in the same types of 
muscle use--swimming.

I think that there's a gender difference in how big your muscles get even if 
you are doing the same types of work.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
 
"You live and learn, or you don't live long."
 Robert Heinlein

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In a message dated 7/16/2003 7:44:30 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
cathy@thyrsus.com writes:

> It's breath-taking, Bjarne. 

Yes, Just lovely. I can't wait to see it on someone with its petticoat, a 
fluffy neckerchief and a big hat!
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Cathy,

Oh, my favorite subject... Menswear. The men's chest growth is kind of a
trade fact.  I was taught about menswear from three old seasoned salesmen.
I learned so much from them when selling menswear.  Funny, men's clothing is
not talked about that much outside of the stores.  Some of it, you just
know, and really don't talk about.  Most men just want something to fit and
not an explanation why.  Just dress them for the occasion, they are happy,
but dress them well.

We all have visions of the tailor with the measuring tape that we see in the
movies.  There is so much more to it.  Their clothing is very much suited to
personality, professional, color themes, event/occasion for dress, fit, and
above all comfort.  So much falls into dressing a man and making him feel
comfortable in what he is wearing.  Have you ever seen a man who doesn't
feel comfortable in his clothing.  They look like little boys squirming....
OR get me out of this as soon as possible.

I guess I am weird, when I see a man, I try to figure out what to dress him
in.  I really got into menswear because my younger brother was having so
much trouble finding store bought clothing to fit him.  It was funny in the
mid- 70s there was a big push in the industry to hire women to sell
menswear.  So I saw the opportunity and jumped in.

When selling menswear, you really have to judge a lot about a man really
quick.  They generally do not want to try on dozens of items... may be one
or two items.  So you need to know what questions to ask when the customer
approaches.

I truly do miss selling menswear.  I just can't stand for eight hours a day.
If I could, I would be out on the salesfloor.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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	<c1.3425249d.2c45c4b0@aol.com><200307160136.22252.cathy@thyrsus.com><027c01c34b64$d149e6c0$0400a8c0@comcast.net><200307161947.09961.cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Average Height
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 21:30:44 -0400
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Hi Mel!!!!

This is very true in what you said.  That was part of the point about the
swimmers.  Divers and syn. swimmers generally have small shoulders compared
to the lap swimmers shoulders that were broad.

I just got my kids' swim team photos today.  We almost fell over when we saw
my daughter's photo and how large her shoulders and upper arm muscles are
compared to last year.  Even more shocked that she swam 55 laps today for a
charity.  I think I would be dead if I did that now.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Average Height
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On Wednesday 16 July 2003 09:23 pm, Penny Ladnier wrote:
> Cathy,
>
> Oh, my favorite subject... Menswear. The men's chest growth is kind of a
> trade fact.  I was taught about menswear from three old seasoned salesmen.
> I learned so much from them when selling menswear.  

Fascinating.  

> Funny, men's clothing
> is not talked about that much outside of the stores.  Some of it, you just
> know, and really don't talk about.  Most men just want something to fit and
> not an explanation why.  Just dress them for the occasion, they are happy,
> but dress them well.

Yes, that's too true.  My husband has certain preferences (of color and 
fabric), but beyond that he's not interested in involving himself with the 
details.

>
> We all have visions of the tailor with the measuring tape that we see in
> the movies.  There is so much more to it.  Their clothing is very much
> suited to personality, professional, color themes, event/occasion for
> dress, fit, and above all comfort.  So much falls into dressing a man and
> making him feel comfortable in what he is wearing.  Have you ever seen a
> man who doesn't feel comfortable in his clothing.  They look like little
> boys squirming.... OR get me out of this as soon as possible.

Oh, yes.

Thanks for your comments.  
-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
 
"You live and learn, or you don't live long."
 Robert Heinlein

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Average Height
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Your welcome Cathy.   I think people shy away from menswear because it seems
to be a mystery.  You have to give men their space, but then read their mind
too.
These three old salesmen did one of the most wonderful things... passed on
their knowledge before they retired.

Recently I meet one of my old neighbors.. come to find out he sold menswear
for 35 years.  We talked for half a day.  It was so fascinating to hear
about his years of salesmanship.  He started out selling after WW2 and
retired in the late 70s.  It was so neat to talk with someone who had first
hand experience during this wonderful span of time.  I really should go
visit him again... or get locked out of my house... that is how I met him.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 16 22:24:22 2003
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need quick 1920s underpinning help
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Hi Dawn,

I'm not sure if this will work, but I found one minimizing bodyshaper at
herroom.com --

http://www.herroom.com/Va_Bien,Vab001-701,4.cfm

It doesn't cover the thighs, though.

Let me know if you find anything else -- I need one of these too!

- Kendra

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: Re hiding clothes in building Re: Extant clothing, was Re:
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At 01:12 AM 7/17/2003 +0100, you wrote:
> >You know, I'm aware that this is the current belief - and a lot of people
>have been -told- that this was the reason that it certainly IS a reason now,
>but I haven't seen convincing evidence that says the reason things were
>concealed was for superstitious reasons in the past.
>
>Sorry are you saying you don't believe they hide clothing due to
>superstision in the past ?
>
>I've no idea one way or the other, but I do wonder why else would you hide
>it ?

A while back I corresponded with someone who studies concealed garments. 
Yes, superstition/magic is a factor. But he said some items got built into 
buildings out of sheer carelessness with the trash.  Builders still 
apparently leave junk in place, including occasionally clothing, just 
because they don't want to clean up.

Fran



Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com
Historic and Vintage Dance
http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance 

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Subject: [h-cost] 
	Re: Re hiding clothes in building Re: Extant clothing, was Re:
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>From: "Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk>
>>You know, I'm aware that this is the current belief - and a lot of people
>>have been -told- that this was the reason that it certainly IS a reason 
>>now,
>>but I haven't seen convincing evidence that says the reason things were
>>concealed was for superstitious reasons in the past.
>Sorry are you saying you don't believe they hide clothing due to
>superstision in the past ?

I'm saying that we don't know why they did it, or even if there was a single 
reason for it.

>I've no idea one way or the other, but I do wonder why else would you hide
>it ?

Some concealments are just as likely to be trash dumps by workers, Others 
may be kids stuffing things in walls, or under floors.  There are any number 
of reasons we may never know (and yes, some sort of superstitious thing may 
werll account for some of them).  People often do weird things for some 
truly pointless reasons.   You check out some of the places I grew up in you 
will find some ritual silberware concealments from me getting seriously 
bored and findling ways to amuse me.  God only knows what I would have been 
hiding if we hadn't had TV to distract me :)

>Here is the site I read it on
>http://www.concealedgarments.org/information/what_dcg.html Maybe they have
>some basis for the suggestion

i've read their literature (excellent site, BTW), as well as the literature 
that has shown up elsewhere.  As I said, it's a popular theory, and has 
become more so since it started getting published as 'ritual concealment'.

If you haven't seen the works of Ronald Hutton, he's got some interesting 
examples of "folklore" that was presented back in the 19th century as 
extending back to pagan times, that is now frequently repeated as such, but 
in fact only goes back to the 18th century.

Marc

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval pins
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 15:40:27 +1200
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> Actually they do have some "adult" pilgrim badges in a specially marked
> area. But they are period, believe it or not.

I have to admit I had a good laugh at some of them. They are just
brilliantly wicked and anyone who hs ideas that the middle ages were
extremely prude would have their eyes opened.

Personally I think "chicken love" would make a great addition to my charm
bracelet;)

michaela
http://costumes.glittersweet.com


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Subject: Re: Re hiding clothes in building Re: Extant clothing, was Re:Average
	Height, was Re: [h-cost] Re: QEI-how tall?
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>A while back I corresponded with someone who studies concealed garments. 
>Yes, superstition/magic is a factor. But he said some items got built into 
>buildings out of sheer carelessness with the trash. Builders still 
>apparently leave junk in place, including occasionally clothing, just 
>because they don't want to clean up.
That was my conclusion as well - I've seen several citations in 17th century works about what to wall up in a house.  First question I ask when talking to someone who's doing a rehab is "What'd ya find?" 
I've found neat things that were obviously put there on purpose, but I've also personally found lots of "crap" in walls...and I'll never forget the ancient family car that always had the rattle in the door. The window stopped working.  When he took the door panel off, an old coke can fell out.

I know my grandfather has walled up valuables-but that's another story.

Constance
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>I have to admit I had a good laugh at some of them. 

One of the fellows who tends the shop at Pennsic thought I was a drunk until someone explained that just seeing the sign sets me into fits of giggles.

Constance
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-----Original Message-----
From: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Wednesday, July 16, 2003 2:52 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: why not to release corsets quickly


>This from a SCA medic (as told to me):
>
>And you must NEVER release the corset in any way if a person is
>choking.  Do the Heimlich with the corset in place.  Yes, it's really
>hard.  If you loosen (or worse, cut) the corset, there is a sharp intake of
>breath - which pushes the object they're choking on even deeper.
>
>Sandy
>
In the most recent 1st aid course I did (about 10 months ago) they suggested
that the heimlich maneuver was not commonly used anymore instead common
practice is what's called a lateral chest thrust (lie them on their side
spread your hands over the side of their ribcage and push down sharply) this
would seem to be more feasible with a corset on than the heimlich maneuver
which requires you to dig your fist in underneath their ribs, not something
you can achieve with a rigid busk running down the front. The heimlich
maneuver also has other associated dangers if it's not done properly and has
been shown to be less reliable (mainly because you are fighting gravity to
get whatever it is up & out of the airway)
Just a suggestion in case you ever find yourself in that situation
Elizabeth


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-----Original Message-----
From: Cozit / Liz <cozit@comcast.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Wednesday, July 16, 2003 1:30 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: why not to release corsets quickly


>There is an exception, BTW.  If someone is in an extreme heat emergency
>and/or is having extreme difficulty in breathing and the corset/bodice
>cannot be released easily... then the other situation needs to take
>priority over the risk of the quick release... or so I've been told...
>I'd double check before you pass *that* part on.
>-Elisabeth


Based on the first aid courses I've attended I'd suggest that this would be
the case, it's the same idea if you have someone with a suspected spinal
injury You try not to move their spine, but if they aren't breathing you
need to tilt their head back to give them EAR (expired air respiration/
mouth to mouth) otherwise the windpipe will not open properly (I'm sure you
know it's harder to breathe if your chin is on your chest). The advice I've
been given is see if you can get their lungs to inflate  with their head in
position, but if you can't then you've just got to tilt their head, better
for them to be alive with a spinal injury than dead.
Elizabeth (no, the other one)


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-----Original Message-----
From: catpurson@juno.com <catpurson@juno.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Wednesday, July 16, 2003 12:24 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: QE I - how tall?


><<<this relates
>to height in that while your body is busy fighting off infection it stops
>putting valuable resources into non essential things like growing
>taller.>>>
>
>        I find that a bit hard to believe.  As a child, I had German
>measles, three day measles, mumps, chicken pox, whooping cough, and still
>grew to be 5'10" tall.  My mother was 5'3" tall and came from a well to
>do family.  My dad was 5'11" tall and came from a lower middle class
>family.  I suspect it is more in the genes than in the diet or what
>disease we had as kids.
>
>Lalah
>Never give up, Never surrender


Oh yes I agree that genes are more of a determining factor than childhood
diseases, but diseases (especially if you get a severe dose, or it becomes a
protracted illness) still have an impact especially if they come during a
growth spurt. Nutrition is not usually an issue unless you are severely
undernourished, but some people are that severely undernourished, e.g. my
grandmother was the youngest child in her family & the depression hit her
family hard, when she was about 7 years old, her older siblings had largely
finished growing but because of that period of a few years in which she did
not receive enough food she was the shortest of all her sisters & shorter
than her mother. Obviously this is not a really scientific study with only
one example to go on, but it does show that food (or lack thereof) can
affect whether or not you reach your full genetic potential.
Just my bit
Elizabeth Walpole


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Average Height
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 07:08:39 +0100
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>But there I was talking about women and men both engaged in the same types
of
muscle use--swimming.

Fair enough :)

>I think that there's a gender difference in how big your muscles get even
if
you are doing the same types of work.

My modern instinct tells me you are right, physical size of muscle propably
appears bigger, but I wonder if bigger necessarily means stronger or how it
affects the bones ? For instance is a 5 ft 6 inch woman comparable to a 5 ft
6 inch man ? I'd suggest they were on the grounds I'm as strong if not
stronger than most 5 ft 6 men I know, however as most men are bigger than
most women, your hypothosis would seem to be true simply because it is not
like for like ? Not sure I can back that up at present but if I get time
next week when I'm on site with a load of skellies I'll try and look.

Mel




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Average Height
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Hi Penny

>Even more shocked that she swam 55 laps today for a
charity.  I think I would be dead if I did that now

You & me both :) How long is a lap ? Here we tend to do lengths or more
often metres, either way more that 4 lengths at 25m and I'd be dead I think
:) My daughters record is 800m (the 9 y o) She is a strong swimmer as is her
brother.

Mel
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>Builders still
apparently leave junk in place, including occasionally clothing, just
because they don't want to clean up.

Oh dear now I'm going to have to be very sure my builder do not go building
any of my clothes especially my costumes into my extension, if I ever get it
:)

Really that is a good enough reason I guess, but in days when clothing was
valuble it still seem a fairly odd way to get rid of the rubbish, why build
a specical place for it if I read that web page correctly ?

Mel

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Subject: Re: Re hiding clothes in building Re: Extant clothing, was Re:
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--- Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote:

> A while back I corresponded with someone who studies
> concealed garments. 
> Yes, superstition/magic is a factor. But he said
> some items got built into 
> buildings out of sheer carelessness with the trash. 
> Builders still 
> apparently leave junk in place, including
> occasionally clothing, just 
> because they don't want to clean up.

OTOH, most heavy construction workers I know follow
superstitions (such as putting a fresh-cut conifer at
the top of the steel framing when it's completed) just
in case. This thread jogged my memory--a friend of
mine used to work for one of the big construction
companies that was hired by CalTrans to build part of
the 210 Freeway (she drove one of the machines that
laid concrete). The day they were to finish the
paving, the guys on her crew took up a collection to
pay for a replacement bra so she could run out during
lunch, buy the replacement, change bras, and bring the
worn bra back to the site, so it could be put on the
roadbed before they poured the last bit of concrete to
finish the freeway. I don't recall if any of the guy
"donated" their undershorts or T-shirts to be paved
over.

Dawn

=====
Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are just the costumes we wear every day.
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>I'm saying that we don't know why they did it, or even if there was a
single
reason for it.

OK got you, yes I think we agree too often 'ritual' is a word for I don't
know why. I had a similar argument on who smiths must be considered magical
because of the general populus not knowing how metal was made. I argued that
most people now didsn't know the chemical reactrions in cake baking but
nobody considered turning raw ingrediants into cakes majic. There are
legends of magical smith, but yes I do sometimes think ritual is overstated

>Some concealments are just as likely to be trash dumps by workers,

Not having read the site reports it is hard to say, but the impression I get
is they are deliberate sealings. Next time I see a building archaeologist
I'll quiz them on their first hand knowledge.

>People often do weird things for some
truly pointless reasons.

Agreed

>i've read their literature (excellent site, BTW), as well as the literature
that has shown up elsewhere.  As I said, it's a popular theory, and has
become more so since it started getting published as 'ritual concealment'.

I haven't read much as it is the textiles themselves that interest me more
that why they are there

>If you haven't seen the works of Ronald Hutton,

Yes I have a very good read

Mel

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From: "Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <000001c34c1d$ab1be340$8828dccb@ewalpole>
Subject: Re: disease & height (was: Re: [h-cost] Re: QE I - how tall?)
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 07:27:20 +0100
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>Nutrition is not usually an issue unless you are severely
undernourished, but some people are that severely undernourished

In the past people had the potential to be persistantly undernourised,
surprisingly men seem to sugffer more easily than women. We are so used to
all food all year we forget how bad spring & early summer was in the past,
yes they were fed but the nutritional values were way down

Mel

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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Average Height
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 02:47:21 -0400
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Mel,

Congrads to your 9 y.o.  I love to watch kids in competitive swimming.
Several people don't realize the amount of kids that receive college
scholarships for swimming.

Our neighborhood pool is a 25 yard or meter pool.  I can't remember.  My
daughter only stopped because I told her the max I would give the charity is
$20.

Several of the 11-13 old girls swam 100+ laps.  Her best friend swam 115
laps... because her grandmother was donating $1 a lap.  I guess she didn't
know how much these kids really love to swim!

Now Mel, when they finished the charity swim, all the girls stayed at the
pool playing Marco Polo until 8 PM... when the pool closed.

Oh, to be young and have energy!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Average Height
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Hi Penny

>Congrads to your 9 y.o.  I love to watch kids in competitive swimming.
Several people don't realize the amount of kids that receive college
scholarships for swimming.

Not here the don't :)

>Our neighborhood pool is a 25 yard or meter pool.  I can't remember.  My
daughter only stopped because I told her the max I would give the charity is
$20.

Thanks just curioous really is the lap up & down or round the pool ? Anyway
it is a good distance

>Several of the 11-13 old girls swam 100+ laps.  Her best friend swam 115
laps... because her grandmother was donating $1 a lap.  I guess she didn't
know how much these kids really love to swim!

Pretty good ! We did a worm charm once and Alex was sponsered 1 pound a worm
by one chap we got over 100 worms !!!!

>Now Mel, when they finished the charity swim, all the girls stayed at the
pool playing Marco Polo until 8 PM... when the pool closed.

I hate that kind of energy makes me feel really old :) Is Marco Polo like
Water Polo ?

Mel


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Average Height
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 03:20:49 -0400
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Mel,

Thinking back to the events... they considered a lap one length of the pool
today for the charity.  Normally when they compete, each event is 50 meters.
Back and forth the length of the pool.  About half the pools in our circuit
are yards and the other meters.  They have to separate the scores/records
for these.

Our three coaches are home for the summer from college.  All of them are
going to college on swimming scholarships.  One of the swimmers in the 2000
Olympics was on our swimteam throughout her childhood.  She was in college
for swimming when she qualified for the Olympics.  It was wonderful seeing
someone from the neighborhood swimming live in Sidney!  It gave great
inspiration to the kids in our neighborhood.  When she returned, she talked
with all the kids on the team.

What is a worm charm?  I am imagining all kinds of things.  You already had
me laughing once about the cake comparison... are you going to do it again?

Marco Polo is a game the kids play at the pool.  It is not like water polo
from what I have observed.  I will have Katie explain it to me in the
morning.  I'll get back to you on that one.  I just know the kids can play
it for hours.

Shashy told me that in the section of Pennsylvania where she lives in if you
are a good swimmer, you are like a celebrity.  She said lots of kids receive
swimming scholarships.

It is time for bed... I will continue giggling until I find out what a worm
charm is.  Try my cake experiment!  It would make a good show for a science
fair.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 08:22:52 +0100 (BST)
From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re hiding clothes in building Re: Extant clothing, was Re:
	Average Height, was Re: [h-cost] Re: QEI-how tall?
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I can give you proof, living proof, in my very vivid memory. Granted, in
germany not in England, but in germany clothes were concealed as well, together
with shoes and dead cats - often they had a rosary pulled through their bodies.
I KNOW that this was done for superstituous reasons because my own grandmother
told me that this is what they did, and she livd in  village, thus I talked to
the other old ladies in that village when I was a kid,coz I was so fascinated,
and they told me the same, about how the house is protected when they put in a
piece of their clothing, how it protects the owner of that piece and their
children, etc. Black mummified cats with rosaries probably don't need too much
of an explanation...

Thre may be a lot of other reasons, but  I can vouch that in this particular
region I am talking about, there were superstitous reasons.

Off to the first aid exam and then on to Ely to meet Mel. :-)

Nicole

--- Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk> wrote: > >You know, I'm
aware that this is the current belief - and a lot of people
> have been -told- that this was the reason that it certainly IS a reason now,
> but I haven't seen convincing evidence that says the reason things were
> concealed was for superstitious reasons in the past.
> 
> Sorry are you saying you don't believe they hide clothing due to
> superstision in the past ?
> 
> I've no idea one way or the other, but I do wonder why else would you hide
> it ?
> 
> Here is the site I read it on
> http://www.concealedgarments.org/information/what_dcg.html Maybe they have
> some basis for the suggestion
> 
> Mel
> 
> This e-mail, and any attachment, is confidential. If you have received
> it in error, please delete it from your system, do not use or disclose
> the information in any way, and notify me immediately. The contents of
> this message may contain personal views which are not the views of the
> Company, unless specifically stated.
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

=====
Men Die. Cattle Die. Word-Fame Lives Forever.   ~ Old Norse Aphorism

Email: nicole@kipar.org
URL: http://www.kipar.org

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From: "Tonkin, Rebecca (PIRSA-SARDI)" <tonkin.rebecca@saugov.sa.gov.au>
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Somebody (sorry, don't know who) wrote:
>I think that there's a gender difference in how big your muscles get even
if
you are doing the same types of work.
and Mel wrote:
My modern instinct tells me you are right, physical size of muscle propably
appears bigger, but I wonder if bigger necessarily means stronger or how it
affects the bones ? For instance is a 5 ft 6 inch woman comparable to a 5 ft
6 inch man ? I'd suggest they were on the grounds I'm as strong if not
stronger than most 5 ft 6 men I know, however as most men are bigger than
most women, your hypothosis would seem to be true simply because it is not
like for like ? Not sure I can back that up at present but if I get time
next week when I'm on site with a load of skellies I'll try and look.

Mel

Statistics show that, *on average*, for a male and a female who have the
same height, weight, and fitness, the male will be stronger, due to
testosterone. For the same reason, *on average*, males gain muscle faster
when doing an exercise program. They have inbuilt steroids.
Costume content ? Ummm... gym outfit ? No, not ancient Greek. Anyone ever
tried a leather strophium ? Was it leather ? Blither...
Rebecca
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Re hiding clothes in building Re: Extant clothing,
	was Re:AverageHeight, wa
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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 --- Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk> wrote: > >
> because of the general populus not knowing how metal was made. I argued that
> most people now didsn't know the chemical reactrions in cake baking but
> nobody considered turning raw ingrediants into cakes majic. 

Hey, I DO think that cake baking is magic! :-)

Magic is the science of those who existed or exist in a different belief system
than ours. We explain everything with science, do we really? Ask a true
scientist, many say that they reach a certain limit to their explanations, and
after that they start to wonder if it is magic.
*laughs*

Nicole

=====
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Email: nicole@kipar.org
URL: http://www.kipar.org

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: why not to release corsets quickly
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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 --- Elizabeth Walpole <ewalpole@austar.net.au> wrote: > 

> In the most recent 1st aid course I did (about 10 months ago) they suggested
> that the heimlich maneuver was not commonly used anymore instead common
> practice is what's called a lateral chest thrust (lie them on their side
> spread your hands over the side of their ribcage and push down sharply) this
> would seem to be more feasible with a corset on than the heimlich maneuver
> which requires you to dig your fist in underneath their ribs, not something
> you can achieve with a rigid busk running down the front. The heimlich
> maneuver also has other associated dangers if it's not done properly and has
> been shown to be less reliable (mainly because you are fighting gravity to
> get whatever it is up & out of the airway)

Interesting, because I am NOW doing my First Aid at work refresher course
(written exam in half an hour) and there is no such thing as the maneouver you
suggest. I wonder if there are country differences in First Aid. The Heimlich
is not called heimlich anymore to confuse everybody *laughs* but according to
the teacher this week, it is still done, the difference is, the straddling of
the casualty, once unconscious and lying on the ground, is NOT done anymore,
instead 15 chest compressions are done.
Weird, if you ask me, and the hushed explanation was: political correctness
gone mad coz one shouldn't straddle anyone. Yeah rght, if I ever choke to death
I don't give a doodah who straddles me to get the stuff out.

It's very interesting what you say, I have to ask the teacher in a mo!

Nicole

=====
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Email: nicole@kipar.org
URL: http://www.kipar.org

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>Statistics show that, *on average*, for a male and a female who have the
same height, weight, and fitness, the male will be stronger, due to
testosterone.

Is he stronger or does he just push the envelope further ? I'd be interested
to see the justification, because now I think about equal sizes and strength
I'm not so convinced there is a difference. Ah well so many questions so
little time. Costume content If you are muscular normal clothes don't fit !
Mel
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Average Height
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Penny

>Thinking back to the events... they considered a lap one length of the pool
today for the charity.

Ok got it

>One of the swimmers in the 2000
Olympics was on our swimteam throughout her childhood.  She was in college
for swimming when she qualified for the Olympics.

Cool, we live near Loughborough University, and the girls get coaching
there, it probably is famous in the US but it is a famous UK sports
University, the runner Seb Coe & loads of others studied there

 >What is a worm charm?  I am imagining all kinds of things.  You already
had
me laughing once about the cake comparison... are you going to do it again?

Probably you have to get as many worms as you can to rise in a set square
metre. I dressedup in my African dance stuff, Alex played the drums and I
did trible dance worked like a charm the nearest wormn count to us was 20.
Ok the village thinks I'm a bit odd now but what is new :)

>Marco Polo

OK

>It is time for bed..

night !

>Try my cake experiment!  It would make a good show for a science
fair.

If we had them it might well :)

Mel


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On Thursday 17 July 2003 04:19 am, Melanie Wilson wrote:
> >Statistics show that, *on average*, for a male and a female who have the
>
> same height, weight, and fitness, the male will be stronger, due to
> testosterone.

However, I have read that, for a man and woman of the *same* height and weight 
the strength difference is very modest, somewhere in the vicinity of 10%.

> Is he stronger or does he just push the envelope further ? 

Don't know what you mean by this.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
 
"You live and learn, or you don't live long."
 Robert Heinlein

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Subject: [h-cost] Corsets and "bondage" (WAS: Re: pirates of the caribbean)
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Mike T. writes:

>..it seems that the whole "joke" of the thing was directed toward the 
>not-so-knowledgeable (read "gullible" ) public who equate corsetting with 
>horrible deformities and some sort of male induced bondage/punishment ritual...

Those of us who were of an age to read some of the news of the period 
remember that in the 1970's, a number of women believed that bras and 
girdles were garments of oppression forced upon us by dominant (and 
possibly sadistic) males who wanted to keep women down.


Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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Subject: [h-cost] 
 Growth, menarche, swimming, and body size (WAS: re: Average
  Height)
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Penny writes:

>Girls in general do the majority of their growing between the ages of 
>11-13... According to our pediatrician, girls' body are maturing at a 
>faster rate that 25 years ago.  Most girls are starting their period now 
>between the age of 11-13 y.o.

Hmm. That's about the age I started in 1972; most of my friends didn't 
start until about 13 or 14 (and yes, I'm hearing that a lot of girls are 
starting at 8 or 9 today). Though to counter the idea of "too tall" or 
"taller adult height", one must consider (1) the onset of menarche usually 
means the cessation of vertical growth, and (2) the increasing population 
of short female immigrants (usually from Asian countries). Both of these, I 
think, will contribute to a moderation, if not perhaps a slight reversal, 
of the "growing female height" trend over the next generation or two.


Somewhat later, Penny asked:

>I am really interested in finding some documentation on when swimmer's 
>started the trick of shaving all their body hair to increase speed.

At least since the mid 1970's. The boys' swim team, and the wrestling team, 
would shave before major meets. For the swimmers, it was to reduce drag; 
for the wrestlers, it was to minimize having anything on which their 
opponents could grab hold. (Some of the swimmers and wrestlers even shaved 
their heads for these reasons.)

>Another fairly new trick during training is to wear pantyhose... to create 
>drag.  Even the men do this.  So when they swim an event in competition, 
>they will go faster without the hose.

I'm not sure, but I think the boys worked with this back in high school...


Rebecca Tonkin responds to Mel:

>>My modern instinct tells me you are right, physical size of muscle 
>>propablyappears bigger, but I wonder if bigger necessarily means stronger 
>>or how it affects the bones ? For instance is a 5 ft 6 inch woman 
>>comparable to a 5 ft 6 inch man ?

Normally a woman has a larger percentage of body fat than a man, so if they 
are the same weight, I'd expect the man to have more muscle mass, and 
therefore be stronger.

>Statistics show that, *on average*, for a male and a female who have the
>same height, weight, and fitness, the male will be stronger, due to
>testosterone.

I have anecdotal evidence of this from a post-op MTF transgender friend. 
She also notes that at the same height, people she perceived herself taller 
than as a man, she perceives herself shorter than as a woman. She 
attributes all of this to testosterone levels.



Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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Subject: Re: [h-cost]  Re: Re hiding clothes in building Re: Extant clothing,
	was Re: ...
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In a message dated 7/16/2003 11:18:53 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
marccarlson20@hotmail.com writes:

> If you haven't seen the works of Ronald Hutton, he's got some interesting 
> examples of "folklore" that was presented back in the 19th century as 
> extending back to pagan times, that is now frequently repeated as such, but 
> in fact only goes back to the 18th century.
> 

Can you tell us which works of his has this info?  I just looked him up in 
the card catalogue and it was not obvious which of his books might address this, 
except for the one on the history of modern witchcraft.
Ann Wass
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	<c1.3425249d.2c45c4b0@aol.com><200307161947.09961.cathy@thyrsus.com><009b01c34bf6$66816560$d3644ed5@pavilion><200307162037.57739.cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Average Height
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 07:14:39 -0500
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Hi Mel,

IIRC forensic pathologists can tell the difference between mens and womens
skeletons by the pelvic size/differences?   Something to do with
childbearing.  Also, the length/thickness of the skeleton.

Genie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 1:08 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Average Height


> >But there I was talking about women and men both engaged in the same
types
> of
> muscle use--swimming.
>
> Fair enough :)
>
> >I think that there's a gender difference in how big your muscles get even
> if
> you are doing the same types of work.
>
> My modern instinct tells me you are right, physical size of muscle
propably
> appears bigger, but I wonder if bigger necessarily means stronger or how
it
> affects the bones ? For instance is a 5 ft 6 inch woman comparable to a 5
ft
> 6 inch man ? I'd suggest they were on the grounds I'm as strong if not
> stronger than most 5 ft 6 men I know, however as most men are bigger than
> most women, your hypothosis would seem to be true simply because it is not
> like for like ? Not sure I can back that up at present but if I get time
> next week when I'm on site with a load of skellies I'll try and look.
>
> Mel
>
>
>
>
> This e-mail, and any attachment, is confidential. If you have received
> it in error, please delete it from your system, do not use or disclose
> the information in any way, and notify me immediately. The contents of
> this message may contain personal views which are not the views of the
> Company, unless specifically stated.
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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My husband and I purchased a small house which we have deeds for it back to 1846.  Someone over the years have put clothing into the walls which to me looks like they did that to block out the cold air...to keep it warmer in the winter, and also to keep out the hot air in the summer as well.

Linda
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Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 08:25:43 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hiding clothes
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In a message dated 7/17/2003 8:17:54 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
homesewer@blazenet.net writes:

> Someone over the years have put clothing into the walls which to me looks 
> like they did that to block out the cold air...to keep it warmer in the 
> winter, and also to keep out the hot air in the summer as well.
> 

Does a pair of athletic shorts stuffed into an unused dryer vent count?  (We 
discovered this was why our dryer wouldn't work well when we moved into a 
rental house in Middletown, RI.  Clearly they were put there to keep out the cold 
air.)
Ann Wass
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From: "Talia" <khanson@kc.rr.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] hiding clothes
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 07:30:51 -0500
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That could certainly make your house warmer, all right -- by starting a
fire!

Talia

> Does a pair of athletic shorts stuffed into an unused dryer vent
> count?  (We
> discovered this was why our dryer wouldn't work well when we moved into a
> rental house in Middletown, RI.  Clearly they were put there to
> keep out the cold
> air.)
> Ann Wass

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From: "Beteena Paradise" <bkessinger@ureach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval pins
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----- Original Message -----
From: <ConstanceFairfax@cs.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 12:10 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval pins


> >I have to admit I had a good laugh at some of them.
>
> One of the fellows who tends the shop at Pennsic thought I was a drunk
until someone explained that just seeing the sign sets me into fits of
giggles.
>
> Constance

I have gotten a couple of looks in a crowd when talking about period-style
belts and I ask if they have tried Fettered Cock. I guess I am so used to
the company I don't even think about the name!

Teena

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Average Height
References: <c1.3425249d.2c45c4b0@aol.com><200307161947.09961.cathy@thyrsus.com><009b01c34bf6$66816560$d3644ed5@pavilion><200307162037.57739.cathy@thyrsus.com>
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I think it is something like -- on an adult skeleton, if you can put
your thumb through the hole in the wing it is female.

Someone told me this a long time ago. She was in something to do with
forensics -- you know how sometimes you get into really weird
conversations with people.

Onaree

Genie wrote:
> 
> Hi Mel,
> 
> IIRC forensic pathologists can tell the difference between mens and womens
> skeletons by the pelvic size/differences?   Something to do with
> childbearing.  Also, the length/thickness of the skeleton.
> 
> Genie
-- 
Proud list mom of  Irish Crochet Lovers
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Irish_Crochet_Lovers/
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Subject: [h-cost] body shaper
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> I'm trying to find (quickly!) an all-in-one body
> shaper that will minimize the bust to wear under a
> (copy) 1928 tea frock. It seems that that was the
> solution for the "woman with the generous figure
> trying to achieve the desired boyish look called for
> by modish fashions," (1927 Sears catalog), but most of
> the ones I've seen recently don't minimize the bust.
>
> Any ideas on where to look? Thanks!
>
> Dawn

I've tried to solve this same problem, and it's nearly impossible.  
Since those all-in-one body shapers are sized for women's figures, it's 
not possible to find one which compresses the bust.  My first solution 
would be to wear a tight-fitting sports bra *over* the body shaper, to 
compress as much as possible.  Or, better yet, use a 16th or 17th C 
corset over a long-line panty girdle.  Lace the corset tighter at the 
top and looser toward the waist, aiming for the straight up and down 
look.

Good luck - and please let us know what you did and how well it worked!

Allison

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	was Re:AverageHeight, wa
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Marc Carlson" <marccarlson20@hotmail.com>
> >I've no idea one way or the other, but I do wonder why else would you
hide
> >it ?


Many years ago, when my mother was living with us and my now 14 y.o. son was
only two, he discovered a hole in one of our walls. He also discovered that
it was a really neat place to hide Grandma's shoes! We never did get them
all out--so someone, someday, will find them and wonder why...some sort of
ritual attached to high-heeled shoes, perhaps? lol

Dianne

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Average Height
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Don't forget that archaeologists need to know about these things as
well.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> msberard@earthlink.net 07/17/03 02:44pm >>>
I think it is something like -- on an adult skeleton, if you can put
your thumb through the hole in the wing it is female.

Someone told me this a long time ago. She was in something to do with
forensics -- you know how sometimes you get into really weird
conversations with people.

Onaree

Genie wrote:
> 
> Hi Mel,
> 
> IIRC forensic pathologists can tell the difference between mens and
womens
> skeletons by the pelvic size/differences?   Something to do with
> childbearing.  Also, the length/thickness of the skeleton.
> 
> Genie
-- 
Proud list mom of  Irish Crochet Lovers
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Irish_Crochet_Lovers/ 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: average height/muscle mass
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 10:08:53 -0500
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>
> Is he stronger or does he just push the envelope further ? I'd be
interested
> to see the justification, because now I think about equal sizes and
strength
> I'm not so convinced there is a difference. Ah well so many questions so
> little time. Costume content If you are muscular normal clothes don't fit
!

I'm pretty sure that the man is stronger - something about actually having
more muscle mass than a woman even if they are of the same size...this is
also why men tend to lose weight faster when they start to exercise/diet ~
the more muscle they have burns calories faster, while we women still have
that layer of fat under the skin no matter what.

Disclaimer: The above is based on statistical generalizations. Specific
examples will throw this explanation right out the window. (Or as my husband
said, "Me vs. Selena Williams, yeah she'd tie me into a pretzel. But
overall....")

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot
BRF FOF; Guilde of St. Lawrence

A room without books is like a body without a soul
---Cicero

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************

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Subject: [h-cost] menswear
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> Oh, my favorite subject... Menswear. The men's chest growth is kind of 
> a
> trade fact.  I was taught about menswear from three old seasoned 
> salesmen.
> I learned so much from them when selling menswear.  Funny, men's 
> clothing is

Penny, I have for years tried to figure out something that I bet you 
would know.  (I love this list!)

Occasionally, I need to fit actors with modern men's suits.  Since most 
of the stock suits aren't marked for size, I measure from armpit to 
armpit across the chest to figure out what size chest I think the suit 
will fit, and try them on the actors until I get one that  does fit.  
My question is:  Is there a "standard" way to do this?  I've asked 
menswear salespeople but they all seem to do it by intuition - no 
formula.  (Which I completely understand!)  Example:  I've got an actor 
with an X-inch chest.  I start by putting him in a coat with an 
armpit-to-armpit measurement a few inches bigger than X, and proceed 
from there.  This works fine, but I'm just curious if there's a better 
way...

Many thanks for your help.

Allison

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Subject: [h-cost] corsets & First Aid
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Could someone maybe please summarize the what to do-what not to do with
corseted people in distress? The SCA is full of ladies in corsets, and
the information could be quite valuable to our First-Aid people. I didn't
save the posts, drat it.

Thanks,
Arlys


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From: ConstanceFairfax@cs.com
To: h-costume@indra.com (Historical Costume)
Subject: RE: [h-cost] body shaper
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>> I'm trying to find (quickly!) an all-in-one body
>> shaper that will minimize the bust to wear under a
>> (copy) 1928 tea frock. It seems that that was the

OK - I'm reading "quick but not necessarily authentic" into your query.  How about a couple sizes too small racing swimsuit, the ones that don't have cups?

Have you tried an ace bandage?  Another idea might be to get one of those dimestore belly trimmers - basically a velcro speed version of an ace bandage - you could get the largest one and see if that would work on the "problem area"...

Good luck!

Constance
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From: Lil Sorepaws <sorepaws@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Ace Bandages & Other Binding methods (was bodyshaper)
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I agree with the suggestion of a racing suit (speedo makes them flatten
you out like a board!) or even two layered one on top of another (we used
to do that for swimpractice) but if you want further ideas, how about a
sportsbra that is a size or two too small?  I have several I hate wearing
because they make me look like a chubby boy and I am usually a 38C...
Depending on whether or not you will have someone help you to "flatten"
another option will work even better.  You know that thing neoprene (?)
gauzy stuff they use for wrapping wrists and ankles for sports (the stuff
they put UNDER the sports tape so it doesn't rip a few layers off when you
remove it!) .. have someone help mummify your upper torso in that (make it
snug) and then use a wide sports tape to confine your shape further.  Once
you have the torso taped to the shape you want, you can even re-use it if
you later slice the "bandage" down the back or sides and find a way to
"lace" it for next time.  

Hope this helps.  ;)

- Lil (back to lurking)

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Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 09:37:41 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Re hiding clothes in building Re: Extant
  clothing, was Re:AverageHeight, wa
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At 07:23 AM 7/17/2003 +0100, you wrote:
> >I'm saying that we don't know why they did it, or even if there was a
>single
>reason for it.
>
>OK got you, yes I think we agree too often 'ritual' is a word for I don't
>know why.


I think one thing some people are missing in this discussion is that _some_ 
concealments_ may be ritual and others not. I went through a whole exercise 
on some bottles my family found bricked up in a fireplace.  Someone kindly 
put me in touch with an expert on the things-concealed-in-buildings 
folklore. "Witch bottles" are one of the items people used to conceal. 
Fireplaces were a common place to conceal magical objects.  However, the 
folklore expert also analyzed the date the bottles were probably bricked 
up, the geographic area where they were found, and if I remember correctly 
other factors. The bottles were concealed at least a century after the 
practice had ceased everywhere (as far as is known) and it was done in a 
geographic area where witch bottles weren't ever concealed anyway (as far 
as is known). End result of analysis:  The builders didn't feel like 
walking out to the trash heap, or they wanted to conceal evidence that they 
were drinking on the job.

So, it's not like you can always assume a concealment is necessarily ritual.

Fran




Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com
Historic and Vintage Dance
http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance 

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jul 17 12:42:16 2003
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	Thu, 17 Jul 2003 09:39:02 PDT
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 09:39:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Lil Sorepaws <sorepaws@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Pensic/SCA Fighter Shirts HELP?!
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With Pensic right around the corner I find myself somehow volunteered to
help make a few fellow fighters some garb for combat (I am not authorized
yet so I don't have to worry about myself for the moment).. The pants I
think I figured out how to make extra heavy duty (french seams then
"flat-fell-over" and stitched with a zigzag - the cross seams are a
nightmare to sew through but it will take godzilla to rip that seam
apart!!) but am not sure that the same method would be best for the shirts
(lighter fabric used so thick seams may be extra discomfort) - Can any of
you suggest a type (I assume t-tunic would be easiest but would it be most
durable under plastic armour on a body that is in constant motion?) of
shirt and how to finish it to make it last (or at least not rip easily or
unravel at the seams .. I will be using mostly a cotton/linen blend
fabric) ...

Illustrations or pattern suggestions most welcome!!  I am helping one
stocky/curvy gal and one tall skinny guy with their garb and neither want
the floofy & flowy peasant style which I know will be loose and easy on
movement = (  Many thanks!!

- Lil  

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>===== Original Message From "Melanie Wilson" 
<MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk> =====
>>You know, I'm aware that this is the current belief - and a lot of people
>have been -told- that this was the reason that it certainly IS a reason now,
>but I haven't seen convincing evidence that says the reason things were
>concealed was for superstitious reasons in the past.
>
>Sorry are you saying you don't believe they hide clothing due to
>superstision in the past ?
>
>I've no idea one way or the other, but I do wonder why else would you hide
>it ?

Well, the people who built the house I grew up in had a habit of hiding 
leftover lunch-bags in the walls of the houses they built.  I rather doubt 
that superstition had anything to do with it, as opposed to sheer laziness.  
There might be any number of reasons for random objects ending up inside 
walls.  Calling it superstition is often another way of saying "we have no 
bleeping idea".

Heather


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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 12:57:09 -0400
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Subject: [h-cost] Marco Polo Game
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Mel asked last night what is the swimming game Marco Polo.  Here is an
explanation of the game:
http://www.partygamecentral.com/pgcstandard/gametmpstd.asp?gn=MARCO+POLO
The game is very popular all around the world even in the UK, Mel.  I found
explanation on dozens of website, even some in the UK.

This is my 17 y.o. reasoning as to why the game is called Marco Polo:

Marco Polo was known for getting lost.  This is why the person who is IT
(Marco) has to keep their eyes closed during the game.  The players venture
around the pool because they are to represent the places that Marco Polo
wanted to find but had a hard time finding.  When the IT person does find a
player, it is supposed to be find of amazing.  When the players yell POLO,
that is the only clue for Marco has as to where to go to find the players.
The players are continuously moving even after yelling Polo. The game is a
form of tag.

My kids, even the college age love to play this game.  They spend hours
playing it in the pool.

I never did find on the websites the reason why the game is called Marco
Polo.  Now this makes me wonder why is the horse game polo is called *polo.*

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 10:40:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sharon Greany <queensno2000@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Spanish Ropa Question
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Hi everyone, 
 
I'm a lurker, and I love everyones input on project. I in the middle of making a Spanish Ropa or sometimes it's called a Loose Dress (1550-1600's) Most of the portraits on the subject only show to about there hip line. So here is the question
 
Farthingale? or no Farthingale? 
 
Janet Arnold's Loose gown in "Pattern of Fashion" is German, and I read that in that time period, that region didn't pick up the Spanish fashion of Farthingale's. Some of the English Loose Gowns look like they have a small version farthingale
 
This is the portrait.  http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Isabella%20Eugenia%20C.jpg
 
Any Ideas?
 
Thanks
Sharon


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> I love her books but no one is without mistakes.
> There is a small mistake in the corset pattern. The piece of strap
> wich has an angle at one side schould be pointing towards the neck.
> When I saw the original corset I forgot to look at many things. I
> realised that when I was working on the corset. I wonder how close she
> could examen the dress and if the corset was there to. The dress is in
> the museum but the corset is in the archieves...

We asked Janet Arnold about some of those sorts of mistakes in her 
PoF books (when she was doing a lecture in Vancouver, BC.) She said 
that many of the drawings had been done by her students and that she 
hadn't double checked them, figuring that people weren't going to use 
them to copy them exactly, but only to use them the way most of us 
use Alcega: as a general guide to the shape.

I had my copy of PoF where I had taken Robert Trump's "The Annotated 
Arnold" and put in every "mistaken detail" as margin notes. She 
complimented me on how I must appreciate her because I had taken the 
time to do that. I hadn't the heart to tell her that Bob had showed 
me the rather scathing letter she wrote him when he sent her a 
complimentary copy of his book (which originally was done because he 
appreciated her work.) Of course, I *do* (as even though she is gone, 
her work is not) appreciate all that she did and wish she could have 
lived *much* longer. (But that doesn't mean that I think she's 
perfect. No one is.)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Spanish Ropa Question
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 11:26:49 -0700
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Very interesting picture....I'd say no on the farthingale in this particular
picture, but I've seen others where it would appear they have a small one
on.  

What I am confused about is it looks like she has a shoulder roll on her
left arm but not on her right?  I realize she has a big puffy sleeve, but it
really looks pretty different on her left side.  What does anyone else
think??




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Re hiding clothes in building Re: Extant
	clothing,was Re: ...
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>From: AnnBWass@aol.com
>Can you tell us which works of his has this info?  I just looked him up in
>the card catalogue and it was not obvious which of his books might address 
>this,
>except for the one on the history of modern witchcraft.

Oops, sorry.

The Rise and fall of Merry England and the Stations of the Sun both have 
discussions of folklore in them - I -believe- the discussion of the 
Fraxie/Cambridger "coterie" and its effect on local folklore traditions is 
in Stations.

Marc

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From: kat@grendal.rain.com
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 11:34:34 -0700
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> Well, the people who built the house I grew up in had a habit of
> hiding leftover lunch-bags in the walls of the houses they built.  I
> rather doubt that superstition had anything to do with it, as opposed
> to sheer laziness.  There might be any number of reasons for random
> objects ending up inside walls.  Calling it superstition is often
> another way of saying "we have no bleeping idea".

Along with the same sort of things being said about cardweaving cards 
before a textile worker got a good look at the photograph taken when 
they were in situ. Playing cards or religious items were what they 
were called for years!

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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> You know, I'm aware that this is the current belief - and a lot of
> people have been -told- that this was the reason that it certainly IS
> a reason now, but I haven't seen convincing evidence that says the
> reason things were concealed was for superstitious reasons in the
> past.

I'm inclined to believe that it's not superstition either. I've seen 
too many things dropped into our walls and duct work (usually by 
bored children. Especially shoes.) And I *know* that it's not 
superstition that put them in my walls.

I'll be curious to see what people in the future make of the National 
Geographics that people have used for insulation in their walls over 
the past 50 years. ;)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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> Really that is a good enough reason I guess, but in days when clothing
> was valuble it still seem a fairly odd way to get rid of the rubbish,
> why build a specical place for it if I read that web page correctly ?

But they put it in old wells and other places too (like to fill in 
Tudor fish ponds). Clothing was valuable, but not when it's worn out 
or of poor quality to begin with.

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 11:49:05 -0700
From: Cecilia <pyrfectpup@earthlink.net>
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In the early '70's when my ex and I bought our first house, we got to know
the retiring couple that had lived in that house before selling it to us.
To hear the "Mrs." talk, after their later in life marriage, she was able
to persuade him to "find religion" and give up, among other things,
alcohol. Now, the version heard from the "Mr." indicates that the "Mrs."
could be a bit overbearing, especially concerning alcohol -- but there were
ways around that.

While we were moving in, my ex was putting stuff into the garage and kept
coming back to the house with bottle after bottle of alcohol. There was a
variety of sorts, and the bottles all had different amounts left in them.
The bottles were found in numerous nooks and crannies throughout the
garage.

--
Cecilia
knitting a new paradigm in southern California
pyrfectpup@earthlink.net
http://home.earthlink.net/~pyrfectpup/



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Subject: [h-cost] SCA Event announcement - KWCS
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Hopefully I'm not totally out of line posting this information here; perhaps 
some SCA folks on this list will be interested.... 

Known World Costume Symposium III is just three months away as of **today**. 
But the pre-registration cut-off 
is much closer - July 31! What does this mean? Well, if you pre-
register (and write Herrin Katrein a check) before August 1, you can take a 
full 20% off your registration fees, reducing the registration from 
$50 to $40 for two days of classes, dancing, three meals, classes, 
notable speakers, parties, workshops, entertainment, and classes. For 
more information - and to register - go to www.caerthe.org/KWE . 

Additionally, any Medieval or Renaissance costume-related classes would be 
*most* welcome. Teachers will receive an additional 15% off their event fees, 
and you don't have to be a member to teach; we would welcome any costume 
historians working in our time period. 

Now returning you to your regularly scheduled list....

Melanie
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Re hiding clothes in building Re: Extant clothing,
	was Re:Avera
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 13:46:48 -0500
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>From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
>I think one thing some people are missing in this discussion is that _some_ 
>concealments_ may be ritual and others not. I went through a whole exercise 
>on some bottles my family found bricked up in a fireplace.  Someone kindly 
>put me in touch with an expert on the things-concealed-in-buildings 
>folklore. "Witch bottles" are one of the items people used to conceal. 
>Fireplaces were a common place to conceal magical objects.  However, the 
>folklore expert also analyzed the date the bottles were probably bricked 
>up, the geographic area where they were found, and if I remember correctly 
>other factors. The bottles were concealed at least a century after the 
>practice had ceased everywhere (as far as is known) and it was done in a 
>geographic area where witch bottles weren't ever concealed anyway (as far 
>as is known). End result of analysis:  The builders didn't feel like 
>walking out to the trash heap, or they wanted to conceal evidence that they 
>were drinking on the job.

I'd be suspicous myself :)

One of the things that we do have information on is a variety of magical and 
occult practices over the centuries, many of these traditions and practices 
-have- been written down and follow specific symbolic patterns.  'Witch 
bottles' fall into this category, and yes, they have a specific contect that 
they are likely to be found in.

You know, I don't have problems with *some* concealments were done for 
ritual reasons, or what someone thought might have been a ritual 
concealment, but I have to wonder if the superstitious builders were 
ubiquitous as they seem tobe be presented, why aren't ALL (or even most) 
houses so "protected", and why don't we have any records of these beliefs in 
the old documents (Heck, I'd expect to find it in the "Long Lost Friend" at 
the very least, which contains at least one practice that can be clearly 
show to connect baclk to before the Saxons moved to England...)

I shouldl point out that I'm not trying to convince anyone of anything - 
just trying to indicate that the belief about these things being ritual 
isn't universally accepted. Some people are still skeptical.  That's all.  
I'm sorry for the off-topic digression.

marc


>So, it's not like you can always assume a concealment is necessarily 
>ritual.
>
>Fran
>
>
>
>
>Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
>http://www.lavoltapress.com
>Historic and Vintage Dance
>http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance
>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Re hiding clothes in building Re: Extant clothing, was
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>From: "Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk>
>Really that is a good enough reason I guess, but in days when clothing was
>valuble it still seem a fairly odd way to get rid of the rubbish, why build
>a specical place for it if I read that web page correctly ?

"Building a special place" for it covers a lot of ground, some of which is 
quite interpretive.

Marc

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From: Cecilia <pyrfectpup@earthlink.net>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: average height/muscle mass
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Depending on the source, some researchers place the average difference in muscle
mass and strength between men and women at about 12%, while others put it at
about 20%. One interesting theory goes -- all other things being equal (diet,
amount of exercise, type of exercise, etc) there would be a 12% difference.
However, many children raised before and during the 1900's had many so many
restrictions placed on them due to gender expectations that the reality is more
like 20%. Personally, I've been seeing more and more girls allowed to grow to
their full (or close to) muscle mass potential over the last several years (more
sports involvement, less insistence on "girls" clothing which restricts
movement, etc).

Another fact - I have a friend who is in the process of trans-gendering. While
having been born a "he," Chris never felt comfortable as a male. Chris
(currently late 20's) is now living as a "she." Beyond the expected changes in
clothing, hairstyle, make-up, Chris is also working towards a total, surgical
change, which includes taking hormones that decrease testosterone and increase
female hormones (estrogen and progesterone). Before making the decision to
transgender, Chris had been a car mechanic and really valued the strength that
he had, to the point of working out regularly. Currently, Chris still works on
cars. However, despite continuing to work out through the changing hormones, she
now finds that her strength has diminished by about 15%.

--
Cecilia
knitting a new paradigm in southern California
pyrfectpup@earthlink.net
http://home.earthlink.net/~pyrfectpup/



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Re hiding clothes in building Re: Extant
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>From: "Dianne & Greg Stucki" <goofy1@suscom.net>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Marc Carlson" <marccarlson20@hotmail.com>
> > >I've no idea one way or the other, but I do wonder why else would you
>hide
> > >it ?

I didn't  write this (just mentioning it)

>Many years ago, when my mother was living with us and my now 14 y.o. son 
>was
>only two, he discovered a hole in one of our walls. He also discovered that
>it was a really neat place to hide Grandma's shoes! We never did get them
>all out--so someone, someday, will find them and wonder why...some sort of
>ritual attached to high-heeled shoes, perhaps? lol

Ritual shoe concealments are a complete subset of this field (and the reason 
I first started looking at them).

Marc

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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Re hiding clothes in building Re: Extant clothing, was
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>From: hrjones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
>...walls.  Calling it superstition is often another way of saying "we have 
>no
>bleeping idea".

One of the most annoying things I can think of is with the Bocksten bog 
find, there is an item that servers no clear purpose, but annoyingly might 
be an amulet, since of course there is nothing else it could be :)

(It's a roll of red wooll, wrapped in one but of leather, with some pretty 
designs on it, which is in turn wrapped in another bit of leather. The top 
is closed, and the wool is exposed on the bottom.   A broken strap was 
attached).

Marc

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From: kat@grendal.rain.com
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 12:05:02 -0700
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Subject: Re: [h-cost]  Growth, menarche, swimming, and body size (WAS: re:
	Average Height)
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> >Girls in general do the majority of their growing between the ages of
> > 11-13... According to our pediatrician, girls' body are maturing at
> >a faster rate that 25 years ago.  Most girls are starting their
> >period now between the age of 11-13 y.o.
> 
> Hmm. That's about the age I started in 1972; most of my friends didn't
> start until about 13 or 14 (and yes, I'm hearing that a lot of girls
> are starting at 8 or 9 today). Though to counter the idea of "too
> tall" or "taller adult height", one must consider (1) the onset of
> menarche usually means the cessation of vertical growth, and (2) the
> increasing population of short female immigrants (usually from Asian
> countries). Both of these, I think, will contribute to a moderation,
> if not perhaps a slight reversal, of the "growing female height" trend
> over the next generation or two.

Actually, menarche doesn't stop all vertical growth. It just signals 
the stop of the pubertal growth spurt. In fact, most women can grow 
as much as an inch *after* high school, which is usually quite a bit 
after menarche, considering we pediatricians do workups on girls who 
have not had menarche by age 16 years, which indicates that it is an 
absolute outside age for normal girls. (That's not to say that some 
otherwise normal girls don't have menarche until after 16 years, but 
they are generally the gymnasts, figure skaters and anorexics.)

And while we have seen a decrease in the age of menarche, we haven't 
seen any decrease in expected height in these same girls. They still 
range larger than they did years ago (which is why in 2000 they 
released brand new, revised growth charts which had last been revised 
in 1972.)

Interestingly enough, many of the "short" Asian gals are producing 
babies who are "American" in size. Really throws off the 
calculations.

The endocrinologists (growth and hormone specialists) use a formula 
for computing the expected height of a child. It is called the mid-
parental height. It does assume that both parents were generally 
healthy and had no dwarfism or excess growth hormone problems. 
Basically, the formula is mother's height in inches plus father's 
height in inches (plus 5" if the child is a boy, minus 5" is the 
child is a girl) and divide that whole thing by 2. It is correct 
(even now) to within 2-4".

Height is multifactorial in genetics. That means that there are 
several genes which contribute to height. Back in college 
(undergraduate) when I was teaching genetics, they used to have us 
show the students a series of straws of different heights (about 10 
as I recall). A different set of straws was used to indicate the 
other parent. Then we took half of the straws from one set and half 
the straws from the other set, then found out what the average length 
of the straws was. When this was done on similar sets (to show 
several sets of siblings from the same parents) it was fascinating to 
see the differences that "siblings" could have. And how some of the 
"average" were surprising to the students (but still within what 
would have been the "mid-parental height.")

> >I am really interested in finding some documentation on when
> >swimmer's started the trick of shaving all their body hair to
> >increase speed.
> 
> At least since the mid 1970's. The boys' swim team, and the wrestling
> team, would shave before major meets. For the swimmers, it was to
> reduce drag; for the wrestlers, it was to minimize having anything on
> which their opponents could grab hold. (Some of the swimmers and
> wrestlers even shaved their heads for these reasons.)

Probably late 60's as I remember my swimming classmates shaving 
themselves totally bald from head to foot (leaving only eyebrows and 
lashes.)

> >Another fairly new trick during training is to wear pantyhose... to
> >create drag.  Even the men do this.  So when they swim an event in
> >competition, they will go faster without the hose.

Pantyhose is something that was not used for that purpose that I can 
recall. (But then, pantyhose were still pretty "special" back then, 
not the L'Eggs generation.)

> >>My modern instinct tells me you are right, physical size of muscle
> >>propablyappears bigger, but I wonder if bigger necessarily means
> >>stronger or how it affects the bones ? For instance is a 5 ft 6 inch
> >>woman comparable to a 5 ft 6 inch man ?
> 
> Normally a woman has a larger percentage of body fat than a man, so if
> they are the same weight, I'd expect the man to have more muscle mass,
> and therefore be stronger.

Yes, and male hormones contribute to a difference in the strength of 
the muscles too. Women, no matter how hard they work out (unless they 
are also taking steroids) won't have the same strength for the amount 
of work they put in. They don't have the ability to get the same 
muscle bulk (any more than a pre-pubertal boy does.)

It would be interesting to know if a woman of the same height, weight 
*and* body fat could be stronger or weaker than a man. I haven't seen 
any studies on that, nor have I heard anything about it during 
personal trainer sessions. (Nor in the body building magazines they 
keep on the tables to read while you wait. However, I usually take 
everything they say with a grain of salt because most of them are 
still touting things that have been repeatedly proven to be 
ineffective or dangerous as things to be use. Sigh!)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Spanish Ropa Question
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In a message dated 7/17/2003 2:27:16 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
saragrace@earthlink.net writes:

> Very interesting picture....

Yes, it is.

I like the embroidery down the fronts. Too bad her pearls are obscuring the 
entire pattern.
And it's kinda unusual to see the ropa buttoned at the waist, no? Usually 
it's done up at the top or not at all.

As for the sleeve thing....I think that's just questionable rendering on the 
artist's side.

Is this a kirtle underneath the ropa or a doublet bodice and petticoats? 
Kirtles can have a modest Farthingale under them. This will help the open part of 
the ropa spread to reveal the kirtle or gown.

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From: kat@grendal.rain.com
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 12:16:58 -0700
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] corsets & First Aid
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> Could someone maybe please summarize the what to do-what not to do
> with corseted people in distress? The SCA is full of ladies in
> corsets, and the information could be quite valuable to our First-Aid
> people. I didn't save the posts, drat it.

If someone is in any form of distress, slowly loosen the corset 
cords. (Top down or bottom up is not critical according to what they 
taught us in Pediatric Advanced Life Support. I don't know why they 
talked about it because it wasn't in the book. I guess they figured 
that there were still a lot of young gals, like our Goth population, 
who are corsetting themselves.) Often just opening the corset another 
2" is enough to help them feel better.

Do not cut the corset off the person unless they are in cardiac 
arrest already, as you may put them into cardiac arrest.

All of the first aid people (chirurgeons) that I know already have 
this information, however. Other places experiences may vary.

I used to have an excellent article (which of course is probably 
buried in one of my boxes of articles, not in the textbooks where I 
expected it to be) written about corsets. They were specifically 
talking about the types of corsets which tend to be worn by the Civil 
War re-enactors, which have lacing at the back, but have a bar with 
nubs with the other side having holes going over the nubs in the 
front. I wish I could find it, as it was very helpful in explaining 
the effects.

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Re hiding clothes in building Re: Extant
  clothing, was Re:Avera
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>
>
>One of the things that we do have information on is a variety of magical 
>and occult practices over the centuries, many of these traditions and 
>practices -have- been written down and follow specific symbolic 
>patterns.  'Witch bottles' fall into this category, and yes, they have a 
>specific contect that they are likely to be found in.
>

So is it written down what modern construction workers think they are doing 
if they intentionally conceal items?  Is it a prank rather than a magical 
belief?

Fran




Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com
Historic and Vintage Dance
http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance 

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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] SCA Event announcement - KWCS
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 12:20:13 -0700
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www.caerthe.org/KWE/  You need the slash on the end to get to the
link....just thought you should know!

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of eirenetz@comcast.net
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 11:39 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] SCA Event announcement - KWCS

Hopefully I'm not totally out of line posting this information here; perhaps

some SCA folks on this list will be interested.... 

Known World Costume Symposium III is just three months away as of **today**.

But the pre-registration cut-off 
is much closer - July 31! What does this mean? Well, if you pre-
register (and write Herrin Katrein a check) before August 1, you can take a 
full 20% off your registration fees, reducing the registration from 
$50 to $40 for two days of classes, dancing, three meals, classes, 
notable speakers, parties, workshops, entertainment, and classes. For 
more information - and to register - go to www.caerthe.org/KWE . 

Additionally, any Medieval or Renaissance costume-related classes would be 
*most* welcome. Teachers will receive an additional 15% off their event
fees, 
and you don't have to be a member to teach; we would welcome any costume 
historians working in our time period. 

Now returning you to your regularly scheduled list....

Melanie
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From: kat@grendal.rain.com
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 12:24:04 -0700
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: why not to release corsets quickly
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> Based on the first aid courses I've attended I'd suggest that this
> would be the case, it's the same idea if you have someone with a
> suspected spinal injury You try not to move their spine, but if they
> aren't breathing you need to tilt their head back to give them EAR
> (expired air respiration/ mouth to mouth) otherwise the windpipe will
> not open properly (I'm sure you know it's harder to breathe if your
> chin is on your chest). The advice I've been given is see if you can
> get their lungs to inflate  with their head in position, but if you
> can't then you've just got to tilt their head, better for them to be
> alive with a spinal injury than dead. Elizabeth (no, the other one)

There are two methods of tilting the head to get air in that we are 
taught in Pediatric Advanced Life Support. One is for the general 
population and the other is for people with suspected neck injuries.

But merely having distress is not enough of a reason to remove a 
corset rapidly. Only cardiac arrest is. (As it is especially 
important in the person in distress to do it in such a way that you 
don't make things *worse* by causing cardiac arrest.)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 15:26:10 -0400
From: ConstanceFairfax@cs.com
To: h-costume@indra.com (Historical Costume)
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Pensic/SCA Fighter Shirts HELP?!
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Lil Sorepaws <sorepaws@yahoo.com> wrote:

>With Pensic right around the corner I find myself somehow volunteered to
Oy. :)

I would base the shirt/tunic on the St. Louis tunic, etc.  The only "modern" nod that I'd completely avoid is the tendency to cut the shirt all in one gingerbread man piece - there's an enormous amount of stress at the armpits, which is the last place a fighter wants it.  

Instead, a moderately close-fitting sleeve with a gusset will give the person lots of room to move.

You could leave the center front and back gores out if you wanted to save time at the cost of wasting some fabric.

Personally, I wouldn't bother with french seams, etc - the fabric is going to take much more wear on the surface than stress on the seams.

Constance
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Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 15:30:48 -0400
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From: Brenda <webwarren@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost]  Growth, menarche, swimming, and body size
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Kat <kat@redtrollforge.com> wrote:


>Actually, menarche doesn't stop all vertical growth. It just signals
>the stop of the pubertal growth spurt. In fact, most women can grow
>as much as an inch *after* high school...

>...And while we have seen a decrease in the age of menarche, we haven't
>seen any decrease in expected height in these same girls. They still
>range larger than they did years ago (which is why in 2000 they
>released brand new, revised growth charts which had last been revised
>in 1972.)

I would expect, then, that they would then reach that final adult height 
somewhat faster (i.e., at a younger chronological age) than they would have 
in 1972. Is this in line with, or contrary to, what you have been seeing 
clinically?

>Pantyhose is something that was not used for that purpose that I can
>recall. (But then, pantyhose were still pretty "special" back then,
>not the L'Eggs generation.)

Umm... the generation when women were transitioning from stockings (held on 
with garters, garter belts, or panty girdles) to pantyhose (held on with 
panty waistbands), right?

>It would be interesting to know if a woman of the same height, weight
>*and* body fat could be stronger or weaker than a man. I haven't seen
>any studies on that, nor have I heard anything about it during
>personal trainer sessions.

Hmm. Also, same skeletal mass. Don't want that to throw off calculations 
<eg> I'd like to see that, too.

And now you have two anecdotal FoaF stories about MTF transgenders seeing a 
drop in strength because of increased female hormones, decreased male 
hormones, etc. Wonder how many it will take to have researchers perform 
studies to take it out of the "urban legend" category </me remembers that 
according to urbanlegends.about.com, FoaF - "Friend of a Friend" - is 
apparently one of the ways to tell an urban legend from a true event/story>...



Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 12:33:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: Mara Riley <corbiegirl@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Re hiding clothes in building Re: Extant clothing,
	was Re:AverageHeight, wa
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And don't cakes (with ritual marks or otherwise) show up in folklore
etc. from various sources?

-- Mara

--- N Kipar <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hey, I DO think that cake baking is magic! :-)
(snip)

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Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 12:47:40 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Lynn Downward <LDownward@chori.org>
Subject: [h-cost] RE: Re hiding clothes in building Re: Extant clothing,
 was 	Re:Average Height, wa
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>>From: hrjones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
>>...walls.  Calling it superstition is often another way of saying "we have no
>>bleeping idea".
>
>One of the most annoying things I can think of is with the Bocksten 
>bog find, there is an item that servers no clear purpose, but 
>annoyingly might be an amulet, since of course there is nothing else 
>it could be :)
>
>(It's a roll of red wooll, wrapped in one but of leather, with some 
>pretty designs on it, which is in turn wrapped in another bit of 
>leather. The top is closed, and the wool is exposed on the bottom. 
>A broken strap was attached).
>
>Marc
>

Mom's wrapped birthday present?

LynnD
(I mean, it could be anything, couldn't it?)
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Somewhat related...Awhile ago I saw a program about cognitive differences
between men and women; don't remember what it was called, but it was pretty
interesting.  Most of us have heard the thing about how men are better at
spatial awareness, they navigate by creating mental maps whereas women tend
to navigate by landmarks, women are better at language-related tasks, etc.
Well what I found really fascinating was this experiment they showed where
they conducted cognitive tests on a F to M transgendered person before and
throughout her hormonal treatments.   They found a marked difference in the
way she/he responded to tests--before the treatments, her results to the
spatial, language, math etc. tests were typically 'female', but after the
hormonal treatments the patterns had completely changed and the test results
were more like a man's (for example, language skills were down, whereas
spatial orientation and mapping abilities were way up).  So it isn't just
physical attributes such as strength and muscle mass that are being changed
by these hormones.

*shrug*  I just though it was really interesting.

-- Maral

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cecilia" <pyrfectpup@earthlink.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 2:59 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: average height/muscle mass


> Depending on the source, some researchers place the average difference in
muscle
> mass and strength between men and women at about 12%, while others put it
at
> about 20%. One interesting theory goes -- all other things being equal
(diet,
> amount of exercise, type of exercise, etc) there would be a 12%
difference.
> However, many children raised before and during the 1900's had many so
many
> restrictions placed on them due to gender expectations that the reality is
more
> like 20%. Personally, I've been seeing more and more girls allowed to grow
to
> their full (or close to) muscle mass potential over the last several years
(more
> sports involvement, less insistence on "girls" clothing which restricts
> movement, etc).
>
> Another fact - I have a friend who is in the process of trans-gendering.
While
> having been born a "he," Chris never felt comfortable as a male. Chris
> (currently late 20's) is now living as a "she." Beyond the expected
changes in
> clothing, hairstyle, make-up, Chris is also working towards a total,
surgical
> change, which includes taking hormones that decrease testosterone and
increase
> female hormones (estrogen and progesterone). Before making the decision to
> transgender, Chris had been a car mechanic and really valued the strength
that
> he had, to the point of working out regularly. Currently, Chris still
works on
> cars. However, despite continuing to work out through the changing
hormones, she
> now finds that her strength has diminished by about 15%.
>
> --
> Cecilia
> knitting a new paradigm in southern California
> pyrfectpup@earthlink.net
> http://home.earthlink.net/~pyrfectpup/
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jul 17 17:00:11 2003
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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
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Subject: [h-cost] Victorian color swatch book
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I'm so excited, I had to share...I just nabbed a copy of a book called
"The English Dyer: With Instructions Showing How To Dye 150 Shades On
Cotton Yarns In The Hank; 50 Shades On Cotton Wool; 150 Shades On Worsted
Yarns; 100 Shades On Animal Wool; And 50 Shades On Silk In The Skein".

The book was printed in 1882.  And here's the cool part: /every recipe has
an actual fabric swatch showing the results!/ Can we say, finally matching
up color names with the actual shades?  And, knowing if a dye batch came
out right or not?

Wowsers!!

*bounce*bounce*

Drea


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian color swatch book
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In a message dated 7/17/2003 4:00:47 PM Central Standard Time, 
drea@nospam writes:

> I'm so excited, I had to share...I just nabbed a copy of a book called
> "The English Dyer: With Instructions Showing How To Dye 150 Shades On
> Cotton Yarns In The Hank; 50 Shades On Cotton Wool; 150 Shades On Worsted
> Yarns; 100 Shades On Animal Wool; And 50 Shades On Silk In The Skein".
> 
> The book was printed in 1882.  And here's the cool part: /every recipe has
> an actual fabric swatch showing the results!/ Can we say, finally matching
> up color names with the actual shades?  And, knowing if a dye batch came
> out right or not?
> 

Holy McF**k! 

<covet>

-Sarra Wryght
Elizabethan Dress Journals: http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/index.html
Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian color swatch book
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> Holy McF**k!
>
> <covet>

Hey, watch it!  I just installed those bars on my windows last week,
don't bend 'em. :)

So, will I see you up at my place tonight?

Drea

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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian color swatch book
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A
> > The book was printed in 1882.  And here's the cool part: /every recipe has
> > an actual fabric swatch showing the results!/ Can we say, finally matching
> > up color names with the actual shades?  And, knowing if a dye batch came
> > out right or not?
> >

Well, unfortunately no . . . because the dyes have had 120 years to fade.

Fran



Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com
Historic and Vintage Dance
http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] corsets & First Aid
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>Could someone maybe please summarize the what to do-what not to do with
>corseted people in distress? The SCA is full of ladies in corsets, and
>the information could be quite valuable to our First-Aid people. I didn't
>save the posts, drat it.

Get them to lie down, if possible, and loosen their corsets slowly if you 
have to do it at all.  Beforehand, remind them to stay in the shade 
whenever possible, keep their fluid intake up, and make sure they remember 
to eat at regular intervals.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
             ////-@@\\\
            ((((   7 )))
             (((  <> ))))
                )   ((((((
           /----\   /---\))

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corsets and "bondage" (WAS: Re: pirates of the
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>>..it seems that the whole "joke" of the thing was directed toward the 
>>not-so-knowledgeable (read "gullible" ) public who equate corsetting with 
>>horrible deformities and some sort of male induced bondage/punishment ritual...
>
>Those of us who were of an age to read some of the news of the period 
>remember that in the 1970's, a number of women believed that bras and 
>girdles were garments of oppression forced upon us by dominant (and 
>possibly sadistic) males who wanted to keep women down.

There are corsets, and there are male induced bondage/punishment rituals 
(and there are female induced bondage/punishment rituals), and they are not 
necessarily the same.  Some people do both, separately, because they know 
the difference.  Others may do one or the other, or neither one at 
all.  The Hippie period, for example, requires no corset at all.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian color swatch book
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In a message dated 7/17/2003 4:13:01 PM Central Standard Time, 
drea@nospam writes:

> >Holy McF**k!
> >
> ><covet>
> 
> Hey, watch it!  I just installed those bars on my windows last week,
> don't bend 'em. :)
> 
> So, will I see you up at my place tonight?
> 
> 

No can do tonight...the man has to work in Columbus tonight....The weiner. 
I'll be at Push, wandering around aimlessly, teaching people the proper 
pronunciation of "nevada". I'll see ya and come up to say "Yo". 

-Sarra Wryght
Elizabethan Dress Journals: http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/index.html
Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian color swatch book
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Still, it's the closest one can come these days. And they've been
protected in a book rather than exposed to sunlight, which helps.

Drea


On Thu, 17 Jul 2003, Lavolta Press wrote:

> A
> > > The book was printed in 1882.  And here's the cool part: /every recipe has
> > > an actual fabric swatch showing the results!/ Can we say, finally matching
> > > up color names with the actual shades?  And, knowing if a dye batch came
> > > out right or not?
> > >
>
> Well, unfortunately no . . . because the dyes have had 120 years to fade.
>
> Fran
>
>
>
> Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
> Historic and Vintage Dance
> http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: hiding clothes in building Re: Extant clothing, was...
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Heather wrote:

> > Well, the people who built the house I grew up in had a habit of
> > hiding leftover lunch-bags in the walls of the houses they built.  I
> > rather doubt that superstition had anything to do with it, as opposed
> > to sheer laziness.  There might be any number of reasons for random
> > objects ending up inside walls.  Calling it superstition is often
> > another way of saying "we have no bleeping idea".

My post may kind of take this OT, but if anyone is up for a little laugh, 
there is a great satirical documentation of the archeological discovery of 
the Nacirema coulter.   This takes place some time in the very distant 
future and an archeologist is surveying a hotel room from the perspective of 
not knowing about this culture at all.  Our everyday objects such as a 
bathroom sink or toilet are examined as if they are religious relics and 
shrines.

It's been quite a long time since I read this, but it's always stuck with me 
and has made me second guess items that are deemed as for religious use or 
as sacred objects from ancient cultures.

I'm probably stating the obvious, but Nacerima is American backwards.  And 
our UK friends can definitely get a kick out of it too.

:) jessica

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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian color swatch book
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Aww.  Well, see you this weekend...

Drea


On Thu, 17 Jul 2003 LoreleiMorte@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 7/17/2003 4:13:01 PM Central Standard Time,
> drea@nospam writes:
>
> > >Holy McF**k!
> > >
> > ><covet>
> >
> > Hey, watch it!  I just installed those bars on my windows last week,
> > don't bend 'em. :)
> >
> > So, will I see you up at my place tonight?
> >
> >
>
> No can do tonight...the man has to work in Columbus tonight....The weiner.
> I'll be at Push, wandering around aimlessly, teaching people the proper
> pronunciation of "nevada". I'll see ya and come up to say "Yo".
>
> -Sarra Wryght
> Elizabethan Dress Journals: http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/index.html
> Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 14:45:00 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: hiding clothes in building Re: Extant
  clothing, was...
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Is this titled _The Motel of the Mysteries_?  The illustrated book where, 
among other things, they show the museum gift shop selections at the 
end--the toothbrushes suspended from the ears and the toilet seat worn as a 
sort of torque?

Fran



>My post may kind of take this OT, but if anyone is up for a little laugh, 
>there is a great satirical documentation of the archeological discovery of 
>the Nacirema coulter.   This takes place some time in the very distant 
>future and an archeologist is surveying a hotel room from the perspective 
>of not knowing about this culture at all.  Our everyday objects such as a 
>bathroom sink or toilet are examined as if they are religious relics and 
>shrines.
>

Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com
Historic and Vintage Dance
http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance 

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On Thu, 17 Jul 2003, jessica stier wrote:

> My post may kind of take this OT, but if anyone is up for a little
> laugh, there is a great satirical documentation of the archeological
> discovery of the Nacirema coulter.  This takes place some time in the
> very distant future and an archeologist is surveying a hotel room from
> the perspective of not knowing about this culture at all.  Our
> everyday objects such as a bathroom sink or toilet are examined as if
> they are religious relics and shrines.

"Motel of the Mysteries," by the brilliant David Macaulay. Though it's the
culture of Usa that his archaeologists are studying; the Nacerima is from
another satire -- I've forgotten whose.

--Robin


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Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 17:42:42 -0500
From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] catholic priest hats
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I was hoping that someone on the list would have some hints for me.  I'm 
  researching Catholic priests in 1935 France for a show that I'm 
designing.  The director has sent me a photo that he likes, which you 
can see here
http://www.faucet.net/costume/priest.html
I have no idea whether this is accurate to 1935, but since it is 
specifically what the director wants, that question is moot.

What I need is more images of this hat.  I have an image in my head of a 
black hat with a lowish round crown and a brim that turns up on both 
sides, which seems to match what I see in this photo, but I can't find 
any other images of them, and I can't really see well enough in this image.

In addition, does anyone know where I might find such a hat?

Thanks for any help,
Melanie Schuessler
http://www.faucet.net/costume

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jul 17 17:48:09 2003
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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 11:30:04 -0700
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Subject: [h-cost] Robert Trump-Was:Corset of Dorothea Sabina 1598
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You obviously know Mr. Trump...do you know if his book is still available?
I had heard that he was going to republish it.  I have a copy of a copy of
booklet which shows a man's ensemble that he created with some of the
calculations etc.  Is this the same one?

___________________________________________

I had my copy of PoF where I had taken Robert Trump's "The Annotated 
Arnold" and put in every "mistaken detail" as margin notes. She 
complimented me on how I must appreciate her because I had taken the 
time to do that. I hadn't the heart to tell her that Bob had showed 
me the rather scathing letter she wrote him when he sent her a 
complimentary copy of his book (which originally was done because he 
appreciated her work.) Of course, I *do* (as even though she is gone, 
her work is not) appreciate all that she did and wish she could have 
lived *much* longer. (But that doesn't mean that I think she's 
perfect. No one is.)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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In a message dated 7/17/2003 4:43:54 PM Central Standard Time, 
fran@lavoltapress.com writes:

> 
> Is this titled _The Motel of the Mysteries_?  The illustrated book where, 
> among other things, they show the museum gift shop selections at the 
> end--the toothbrushes suspended from the ears and the toilet seat worn as a 
> sort of torque?

OMG! When I was in third grade, I read a Reader's Digest that had an 
"article" written by a future anthropologist...and had a picture of a model wearing a 
toilet seat around her neck. I rmember I couldn't stop thinking about it for 
weeks, and promptly made several time capsules so future generations would 
"understand". Man, that freaked me out as a kid. I wanna find that article again.

-Sarra Wryght
Elizabethan Dress Journals: http://hometown.aol.com/loreleimorte/index.html
Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
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Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 17:50:15 -0400
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Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] corsets & First Aid
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kat@grendal.rain.com writes:

>If someone is in any form of distress, slowly loosen the corset
>cords. (Top down or bottom up is not critical according to what they
>taught us in Pediatric Advanced Life Support. I don't know why they
>talked about it because it wasn't in the book. I guess they figured
>that there were still a lot of young gals, like our Goth population,
>who are corsetting themselves.)

Actually, ballet students. My doctor's 11-yo daughter is apparently an 
audition away from acceptance in some rather exclusive ballet school in 
which the mothers do a lot of the costuming. (We got into the conversation 
because I was sewing eyelets into an Margo's-Elizabethan corset while 
waiting for her to come back with some test results.) She says that the 
girls really like the tightly-corseted costumes, and the way she describes 
it, I'd say that those girls are into tight-lacing.

Given the types of exhaustion and injuries that can be sustained by the 
physicality of ballet, under hot-stage-light performance conditions, I 
could certainly see you -- or an EMT -- running across the (very) 
occasional young ballerina who's passed out onstage, or just after coming 
off stage, or the one who's managed to fracture a limb from a bad jump (or 
a partnering that somehow just went *wrong*)...

Then of course there are our young maidens (well, one *hopes* they're still 
maidens!) in activities such as SCA, renfaire, and historical 
interpretation in corset-wearing eras (Colonial Williamsburg, American 
Civil War, Kentwell, etc.) who are oblivious to the heat and less prone to 
take care of themselves under those conditions... until something happens.

The same sort of thing may happen with other young performers, 
beauty-pageant contestants, etc.

So I'd say, be glad they discussed it (and that you remember it), pass on 
the info so others can make use of it, and hope that none of us actually 
has TO use it.

BTW, I think I'll pass this info on to my doc when I see her on Monday. May 
she never have to use it!



Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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Subject: Re: [h-cost]  Growth, menarche, swimming, and body size (WAS:
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> Yes, and male hormones contribute to a difference in the strength of 
> the muscles too. Women, no matter how hard they work out (unless they 
> are also taking steroids) won't have the same strength for the amount 
> of work they put in. They don't have the ability to get the same 
> muscle bulk (any more than a pre-pubertal boy does.)
> 
> It would be interesting to know if a woman of the same height, weight 
> *and* body fat could be stronger or weaker than a man. I haven't seen 
> any studies on that, nor have I heard anything about it during 
> personal trainer sessions. (Nor in the body building magazines they 
> keep on the tables to read while you wait. However, I usually take 
> everything they say with a grain of salt because most of them are 
> still touting things that have been repeatedly proven to be 
> ineffective or dangerous as things to be use. Sigh!)
> 
Well I do remember reading an article about Beverly di Angelo
(if that was her name), a female body-builder in the 80's. It
said that pound for pound she was stronger than Arnold
Schwartzenegger, which I took to mean that if she had been
as tall as him she would have been stronger (presumably because
she had more muscle bulk).  I think it's probably quite possible for
a woman of similar size to a man to be stronger, but it probably,
as you've said, takes more work for her to get there. It's
certainly not universal that any given man is stronger than any
given woman, but the height advantage helps.
In terms of costume content, didn't corset-making remain a 
men only domain for some time, because men were considered
stronger? When did women become involved in corset making?
Presumably when the desire for mass produced corsets meant
that their cheaper wages were more attractive?
Claire 
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From: Allison Pace <allivox@comcast.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Drea's Most Excellent New Book
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I'll be right over...
Allison

> I'm so excited, I had to share...I just nabbed a copy of a book called
> "The English Dyer: With Instructions Showing How To Dye 150 Shades On
> Cotton Yarns In The Hank; 50 Shades On Cotton Wool; 150 Shades On 
> Worsted
> Yarns; 100 Shades On Animal Wool; And 50 Shades On Silk In The Skein".
>
> The book was printed in 1882.  And here's the cool part: /every recipe 
> has
> an actual fabric swatch showing the results!/ Can we say, finally 
> matching
> up color names with the actual shades?  And, knowing if a dye batch 
> came
> out right or not?
>
> Wowsers!!
>
> *bounce*bounce*
>
> Drea

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: average height/muscle mass
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 19:16:49 -0400
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While at the doctor's today I asked what was the average height of males and
females.  She said the AMA says average males: 5' 10", females:  5' 5" - 5'
6".

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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Thanks Kat for answering the questions.

I did your formula, and it worked but all my boys except the extra tall one.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 16:36:25 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] corsets & First Aid
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thanks! :-)

Arlys

On Thu, 17 Jul 2003 12:16:58 -0700 kat@grendal.rain.com writes:
> 
> > Could someone maybe please summarize the what to do-what not to do
> > with corseted people in distress? The SCA is full of ladies in
> > corsets, and the information could be quite valuable to our 
> First-Aid
> > people. I didn't save the posts, drat it.
> 
> If someone is in any form of distress, slowly loosen the corset 
> cords. (Top down or bottom up is not critical according to what they 
> 
> taught us in Pediatric Advanced Life Support. I don't know why they 
> talked about it because it wasn't in the book. I guess they figured 
> that there were still a lot of young gals, like our Goth population, 
> 
> who are corsetting themselves.) Often just opening the corset 
> another 
> 2" is enough to help them feel better.
> 
> Do not cut the corset off the person unless they are in cardiac 
> arrest already, as you may put them into cardiac arrest.
> 
> All of the first aid people (chirurgeons) that I know already have 
> this information, however. Other places experiences may vary.
> 
> I used to have an excellent article (which of course is probably 
> buried in one of my boxes of articles, not in the textbooks where I 
> expected it to be) written about corsets. They were specifically 
> talking about the types of corsets which tend to be worn by the 
> Civil 
> War re-enactors, which have lacing at the back, but have a bar with 
> nubs with the other side having holes going over the nubs in the 
> front. I wish I could find it, as it was very helpful in explaining 
> the effects.
> 
> Kat
> <kat@redtrollforge.com>
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 16:50:54 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] catholic priest hats
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>seems to match what I see in this photo, but I can't find any other images 
>of them, and I can't really see well enough in this image.
>
>In addition, does anyone know where I might find such a hat?

I've seen hats like this on priests in older movies.  There's one in the 
Leslie Howard "Scarlet Pimpernell", and there will certainly be others.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
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Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 17:03:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Brainard <marcocaprioli@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval pins
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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well, pulling his pants down is a good start. <eg>

Jeff


--- eirenetz@comcast.net wrote:
> Any idea how to get hold of Fettered Cock? The e-mail contact has
> bounced since 
> the beginning of June. I've got a list of things I want to purchase
> from them, 
> but until I can make contact...
> 
> Eirene
> 
> > > --- Beteena Paradise <bkessinger@ureach.com> wrote:
> > > > Someone was asking about vendors for medieval pins. Fettered
> Cock
> > > > Pewters
> > > > sells two styles. One is a quatrefoil and the other is an
> acorn. They
> > > > are at
> > > > the bottom of this page:
> > > >
> > > > http://www.fetteredcockpewters.com/page_various_sundry.htm
> > > >
> > > > Teena
> > > >
> > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > h-costume mailing list
> 
> > > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > >
> > >
> > > __________________________________
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From: "Bruce & Nora Mai" <casamai@sbcglobal.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] 
	basting spray (was cutting chiffon and other woodgy fabric)
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---- Original Message -----
From: "Heather Meadows" <alice@wonderland.com
> you can just peel it off - it's basting spray, it's removable.
> I actually  haven't used this with chiffon myself yet, but
> if I were, I would probably machine baste the chiffon together while
> still attached to the paper (I usually sew chiffon with paper and then
> tear the paper off so my machine won't eat it) so that it won't distort
> between peeling the paper off and getting the seams stitched.

There are basting sprays that simply disappear, you don't have to wash them
out;
look for Sulky KK2000 Temporary Spray Adhesive. There are also tear-away
stabilizers that you should use in place of paper backing (they look like a
light pellon), they are used for machine applique work for quilts and such.
Sulky makes these in a variety of weights. Hancock's or JoAnn's will have
some of these but not the entire range. Higher end sewing or quilting place
should carry them or you can always get them online. I used to work in an
upscale fabric store and got to try many of these products for display items
and can promise you they work very well.

Nora

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Average Height
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 19:08:54 -0500
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk>
> My modern instinct tells me you are right, physical size of muscle
propably
> appears bigger, but I wonder if bigger necessarily means stronger or how
it
> affects the bones ? For instance is a 5 ft 6 inch woman comparable to a 5
ft
> 6 inch man ?

Size doesn't equal strength - most body-builders aren't all that strong
given their size because they build muscle in a different way. Neither
height nor weight is a determinate either, your strength is determine by the
type and quantity of muscle mass you have. A person of 5'2" (any gender) can
easily be much stronger than a person of 6' even if that person outweighs
them.
Obligatory costuming input: Have you noticed that Bodybuilders generally
look terrible in modern suits even if when custom-made (which they almost
have to be)? Their silhouette is more suited to ancient styles.

Nora

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Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 17:25:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: KATHRYN WOLTERS <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Drea's Most Excellent New Book
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Ohhhhhhhh!!! Sounds like just what I need, too! where did you nab this wonderful book from?
Albra


Allison Pace <allivox@comcast.net> wrote:
I'll be right over...
Allison

> I'm so excited, I had to share...I just nabbed a copy of a book called
> "The English Dyer: With Instructions Showing How To Dye 150 Shades On
> Cotton Yarns In The Hank; 50 Shades On Cotton Wool; 150 Shades On 
> Worsted
> Yarns; 100 Shades On Animal Wool; And 50 Shades On Silk In The Skein".
>
> The book was printed in 1882. And here's the cool part: /every recipe 
> has
> an actual fabric swatch showing the results!/ Can we say, finally 
> matching
> up color names with the actual shades? And, knowing if a dye batch 
> came
> out right or not?
>
> Wowsers!!
>
> *bounce*bounce*
>
> Drea

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]  Growth, menarche, swimming, and body size (WAS: re:
	Average Height)
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 20:34:08 -0400
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On Thursday 17 July 2003 03:05 pm, kat@grendal.rain.com wrote:
[text cut here]

> Actually, menarche doesn't stop all vertical growth. It just signals
> the stop of the pubertal growth spurt. In fact, most women can grow
> as much as an inch *after* high school, which is usually quite a bit
> after menarche, considering we pediatricians do workups on girls who
> have not had menarche by age 16 years, which indicates that it is an
> absolute outside age for normal girls. (That's not to say that some
> otherwise normal girls don't have menarche until after 16 years, but
> they are generally the gymnasts, figure skaters and anorexics.)

You may very well be right for most, but for me vertical growth *did* stop 
with menarche--61 1/4 inches at age 12 1/2....

[text cut here]
> Interestingly enough, many of the "short" Asian gals are producing
> babies who are "American" in size. Really throws off the
> calculations.

Ah.  But are the Asian girls who are producing large "American" size babies 
married to Asian men or (large) white male Americans?  


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
 
"You live and learn, or you don't live long."
 Robert Heinlein

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You might be seeing half the list at your house tonight!
--sue

Drea Leed wrote:
> 
> > Holy McF**k!
> >
> > <covet>
> 
> Hey, watch it!  I just installed those bars on my windows last week,
> don't bend 'em. :)
> 
> So, will I see you up at my place tonight?
> 
> Drea
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> You obviously know Mr. Trump...do you know if his book is still
> available? I had heard that he was going to republish it.  I have a
> copy of a copy of booklet which shows a man's ensemble that he created
> with some of the calculations etc.  Is this the same one?

The men's ensemble calculation is a separate book. (I think you're 
talking about Doublet and Trunkhose, as opposed to The Annotated 
Arnold.)

I haven't talked to Bob for a while. And the publisher he was using 
is no longer being managed by my best friend, so I have no clue 
whether it's still available through them. (Alfhaurager Press, if I 
spelled that right.)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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From: "Lisa Sinervo" <lisa-list@threadneedlest.com>
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Subject: Plundering Schemes - was Re: [h-cost] Victorian color swatch book
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 18:21:32 -0700
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Bars on the windows!........... I guess this book snatching will not just
involve burglary but now murder as well!

Lisa

BTW - When's you next speaking engagement?


----- Original Message -----
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 5:51 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian color swatch book


> You might be seeing half the list at your house tonight!
> --sue
>
> Drea Leed wrote:
> >
> > > Holy McF**k!
> > >
> > > <covet>
> >
> > Hey, watch it!  I just installed those bars on my windows last week,
> > don't bend 'em. :)
> >
> > So, will I see you up at my place tonight?
> >
> > Drea
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Greetings--

> --- eirenetz@comcast.net wrote:
> > Any idea how to get hold of Fettered Cock? The e-mail contact has
> > bounced since
> > the beginning of June. I've got a list of things I want to purchase
> > from them,
> > but until I can make contact...

Try this web page:  http://skraeling.sca.org/  The Baron and Baroness are
also the nice folks behind Fettered Cock. There's even a phone number :-)

Susan
long-time patron and satisfied customer

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> The Heimlich
> is not called heimlich anymore to confuse everybody *laughs* but according
to
> the teacher this week, it is still done, the difference is, the straddling
of
> the casualty, once unconscious and lying on the ground, is NOT done
anymore,
> instead 15 chest compressions are done.
> Weird, if you ask me, and the hushed explanation was: political
correctness
> gone mad coz one shouldn't straddle anyone.

No, in fact it is too easy to cause internal injuries when pushing in the
soft parts of the belly while straddling. That's why they tell us not to do
it anymore.
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	was Re:Avera
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>From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
>So is it written down what modern construction workers think they are doing 
>if they intentionally conceal items?  Is it a prank rather than a magical 
>belief?

Sure it's written down - it's been written down at least twice in this 
thread.  The trick is trying to figure out whether they've always done it, 
or only since the folklorists told them that's why they do it.

I know plenty of people who've hidden shoes in houses since they've read 
that it's good luck (or repels witches, or whatnot).

And again, no one's said that -none- of these concealments were for ritual 
reasons - some may be (just as some may well be for pranks).

Marc

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Warning: No history costume content at all.

Penny's post on menswear hit home! Over the 4th of July weekend my husband
and I went shopping for a sports coat for him. He hadn't bought one in
years, because he doesn't need one for work and the one coat he possesses
has worked for funerals (the only weddings we've attended in several years
are ones he's been in, so every time we thought it was time for a new coat
he ended up renting a tux).

Anyway, we ended up at a Mens Wearhouse, which is a chain of men's stores in
malls. Maybe national, but certainly regional to the east and midwest US. It
was incredible! Eight people worked at this tiny store, and when we walked
in a salesman grabbed him and started measuring him and pulling things off
the shelf. Before we knew it, they had him in a pair of dress trousers and
shoes (he was wearing shorts and a t-shirt) and a fine gauge knit sweater.
While he was looking at the coats, two other employees were whirring around
the store pulling out shirts, ties, and sweaters to show him all the
different outfits that he could get with each coat.

We bought three, and two sweaters. I hope he will wear them all -- but they
were each different and smashing. He is going to do more sales calls with
our business, so he can use them for that.

It was great! I since found out that my brother shops there, and that he
just goes in and tells him what he needs clothes for and what his budget is,
and they get him great stuff.

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Mel:  What if it wasn't deliberately concealed by adults?  What if other
people have children like mine were?  I had to do some plumbing last
month that required taking a wall partly down and I found 14 socks (none
matching), 3 pairs of batman underwear (it's been a decade since they
wore that kind of thing) and 2 of my bras in the wall. Also assorted
desiccated foods, matchbox cars, and 2 stuffed animals. Turns out Bunsen
and Beaker discovered that they could pull the baseboard away from the
second floor bathroom wall and so they used to casually drop things
behind it. Charming aren't they?  Margaret Baird 

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Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 18:37:34 -0700
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: hiding clothes in building Re: Extant clothing,
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> My post may kind of take this OT, but if anyone is up for a little
> laugh, there is a great satirical documentation of the archeological
> discovery of the Nacirema coulter.   This takes place some time in the
> very distant future and an archeologist is surveying a hotel room from
> the perspective of not knowing about this culture at all.  Our
> everyday objects such as a bathroom sink or toilet are examined as if
> they are religious relics and shrines.

This is a classic from the Journal of Irreproduceable Results!

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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> Thanks Kat for answering the questions.
> 
> I did your formula, and it worked but all my boys except the extra
> tall one.

Any Marfan's in your family? That's one of the causes for people to 
be larger than the midparental height would predict. There are also 
other causes for it (such as growth hormone excess such as Fred Gwynn 
the guy who played Herman Munster supposedly had. But they get a 
typical look to their foreheads.)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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> > Actually, menarche doesn't stop all vertical growth. It just signals
> > the stop of the pubertal growth spurt. In fact, most women can grow
> > as much as an inch *after* high school, which is usually quite a bit
> > after menarche, considering we pediatricians do workups on girls who
> > have not had menarche by age 16 years, which indicates that it is an
> > absolute outside age for normal girls. (That's not to say that some
> > otherwise normal girls don't have menarche until after 16 years, but
> > they are generally the gymnasts, figure skaters and anorexics.)
> 
> You may very well be right for most, but for me vertical growth *did*
> stop with menarche--61 1/4 inches at age 12 1/2....

Have you been measured accurately recently? I thought that I hadn't 
grown either, but when I got measured for my life insurance policy 
(when I was about 40), I was 1/4" taller than I had been since high 
school (and when I thought I hadn't grown since I was 15 and hit 
menarche.) It was the insurance lady who told me that they usually 
find that people are taller than they were in high school.

> [text cut here]
> > Interestingly enough, many of the "short" Asian gals are producing
> > babies who are "American" in size. Really throws off the
> > calculations.
> 
> Ah.  But are the Asian girls who are producing large "American" size
> babies married to Asian men or (large) white male Americans?  

Asian men.

They are also finding that the average height of people in Japan has 
been increasing since they started eating a more American diet.

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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> I would expect, then, that they would then reach that final adult
> height somewhat faster (i.e., at a younger chronological age) than
> they would have in 1972. Is this in line with, or contrary to, what
> you have been seeing clinically?

Seems to be.

> >Pantyhose is something that was not used for that purpose that I can
> >recall. (But then, pantyhose were still pretty "special" back then,
> >not the L'Eggs generation.)
> 
> Umm... the generation when women were transitioning from stockings
> (held on with garters, garter belts, or panty girdles) to pantyhose
> (held on with panty waistbands), right?

Yep. I remember trying to figure out how Uhura on Star Trek kept her 
nylons up with those short skirts. *She* had access to pantyhose that 
we couldn't get. (Evidently, based on discussions about pantyhose on 
this list a couple of years back, they had them on the East Coast 
long before they hit the Pacific NW.)

> >It would be interesting to know if a woman of the same height, weight
> >*and* body fat could be stronger or weaker than a man. I haven't seen
> >any studies on that, nor have I heard anything about it during
> >personal trainer sessions.
> 
> Hmm. Also, same skeletal mass. Don't want that to throw off
> calculations <eg> I'd like to see that, too.

Good point. Men do have thicker bones (and denser depending on the 
age.)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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From: "Lisa Sinervo" <lisa-list@threadneedlest.com>
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You know, I can really relate to this, because when I was really little I
watched a Perry Mason episode where Perry Mason trapped the killer because
the sequence of his cheque writing on his bank statements didn't match with
his alimony story.  And you know, to this day, I occasionally write my
cheques out of numerical order just for the hell of it, especially when I'm
bored or if I find the sales assistant snooty.

No doubt other people do unusual things for unconventional reasons as in
this hidden clothes example.

Lisa




----- Original Message -----
From: "Marc Carlson" <marccarlson20@hotmail.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 6:13 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Re hiding clothes in building Re: Extant
clothing,was Re:Avera


> >From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
> >So is it written down what modern construction workers think they are
doing
> >if they intentionally conceal items?  Is it a prank rather than a magical
> >belief?
>
> Sure it's written down - it's been written down at least twice in this
> thread.  The trick is trying to figure out whether they've always done it,
> or only since the folklorists told them that's why they do it.
>
> I know plenty of people who've hidden shoes in houses since they've read
> that it's good luck (or repels witches, or whatnot).
>
> And again, no one's said that -none- of these concealments were for ritual
> reasons - some may be (just as some may well be for pranks).
>
> Marc
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]  Growth, menarche, swimming, and body size (WAS: re:
	Average Height)
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 22:36:52 -0400
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On Thursday 17 July 2003 09:28 pm, kat@grendal.rain.com wrote:
> > > Actually, menarche doesn't stop all vertical growth. It just signals
> > > the stop of the pubertal growth spurt. In fact, most women can grow
> > > as much as an inch *after* high school, which is usually quite a bit
> > > after menarche, considering we pediatricians do workups on girls who
> > > have not had menarche by age 16 years, which indicates that it is an
> > > absolute outside age for normal girls. (That's not to say that some
> > > otherwise normal girls don't have menarche until after 16 years, but
> > > they are generally the gymnasts, figure skaters and anorexics.)
> >
> > You may very well be right for most, but for me vertical growth *did*
> > stop with menarche--61 1/4 inches at age 12 1/2....
>
> Have you been measured accurately recently?

I was last measured by my doctor about 5 years ago, and it checks out.  

Moreover, my mother was 5 foot 2 inches tall, and was consistently taller than 
me (at least until her final illness and death in 1994 at the age of 79).  I 
remember because my (lack of) height was the only thing she ever teased me 
about.


I thought that I hadn't
> grown either, but when I got measured for my life insurance policy
> (when I was about 40), I was 1/4" taller than I had been since high
> school (and when I thought I hadn't grown since I was 15 and hit
> menarche.) It was the insurance lady who told me that they usually
> find that people are taller than they were in high school.

Oh, believe me, I would have noticed.  :-(

Though I have to admit I'd have a hard time getting excited about discovering 
an extra quarter-inch--that kind of difference  you can get practically 
through improving your posture.



>
> > [text cut here]
> >
> > > Interestingly enough, many of the "short" Asian gals are producing
> > > babies who are "American" in size. Really throws off the
> > > calculations.
> >
> > Ah.  But are the Asian girls who are producing large "American" size
> > babies married to Asian men or (large) white male Americans?
>
> Asian men.

Interesting.

Though even the Asian men likely are also better nourished than they would 
have been if they had stayed in Asia--and are probably themselves larger than 
their immediate male ancestors.



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
 
"You live and learn, or you don't live long."
 Robert Heinlein

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul 21 11:12:51 2003
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From: "Cat Devereaux" <CatDevereaux@alleycatscratch.com>
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Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 21:03:15 -0700
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Re hiding clothes in building 
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> He also discovered that
>it was a really neat place to hide Grandma's shoes! We never did get
them
>all out--so someone, someday, will find them and wonder why...some sort
of
>ritual attached to high-heeled shoes, perhaps? Lol

Ah, that is not just something little boys do.   Part of my family
(multi-generation) has been in construction.  Future archeologist are
going to find at the end of every major freeway section (that was built
at one time), things like big bras, panties and sometime stiletto heels.
It is a tradition that this stuff goes in with the last load of
concrete.  It is something management has learned not to mess with... or
the construction team will do something to screw up that batch of
concrete, and the final bit will have to be repoured again.

Further, the same archeologists will be able to date when the
construction teams (in a specific geographic region) because integrated
enough that the females' opinions were listened to.  Only managment
tried to be PC and stop the bra going in.  The women think it's fine,
and sometimes donate the items... BUT   the men must add a jock strap or
underwear too.  

I'm not joking... this is dead seriously what goes on during the last
pour... and isn't just regional.

(couldn't resist so am falling out of lurk mode to share this bit of
future history)

-Cat-



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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost]  Growth, menarche, swimming, and body size (WAS:
	re:Average Height)
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 00:16:58 -0400
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Kat my oldest son married a girl from Cambodia.  They have a daughter who is
2 y.o. now.  Her doctor is said that she is over 100% percentile on the
growth chart.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Doublets-n-kirtles-n-skirts, oh my!
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She knows two of us--I've never done that to my
skirt-and-separate-bodice outfits, either.  On me, they've been pretty
successful, although I, too, am muddling about in other styles/time
periods for the nonce.
On the other hand, I've made basic "wench" garb for several friends
(okay, _nice_ wench garb--the kind that's got a long skirt, a sleeveless
bodice, and a shift), and it's running 3:1 in favor of getting the
bodice too short.  I think what's happening is that the skirts are
shifting to a point lower than the bottom of the bodices--perhaps a
function of a different kind of waistline? Mine's unusually high (right
under my bust, practically--I've always thought of myself as
short-waisted, but the length's in the bottom half of my torso, and not
in my legs at all).
--sue

Dawn Jacobson wrote:
> 
> > Every single person I know who's ever made a bodice AND skirt
> >outfit, had to
> >put hooks along the waistband of the skirt and the bottom of the bodice to
> >make it look right. Why bother with that?
> 
> And now you know of at least 1 person who didn't have to. Me.
> 
> Admittedly, it's been a number of years since I built an English
> Elizabethan (I'm doing different times/styles now), but I've never had to
> put hooks at the waistband, simply because I cut the bodice about 1/2"
> longer. Once it's finished, it's long enough that it is slightly longer
> than the length to the bottom of the waistband, and is on the skirt
> material (just a tiny bit!) itself. As I'm a firm believer in, "If it
> moves, flat-line it; if it still moves, bone it!", I've always lightly
> boned my bodices with 1/4" flat steels. The bodice stays put.
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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost]  Growth, menarche, swimming, and body size (WAS:
	re:Average Height)
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Kat wrote:

>Have you been measured accurately recently? I thought that I hadn't 
>grown either, but when I got measured for my life insurance policy 
>(when I was about 40), I was 1/4" taller than I had been since high 
>school (and when I thought I hadn't grown since I was 15 and hit 
>menarche.) It was the insurance lady who told me that they usually 
>find that people are taller than they were in high school.

I swear I grew about " in my late 20s. It was when I was really active in reenactment and was carrying a musket most weekends over the summer.



Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby


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Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 09:21:21 +0100
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] catholic priest hats
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I think what you're after is what is called a shovel hat. They were worn
by Anglican clergymen too in the 19th century. A Google search on
"shovel hat" brings up
http://www.hatsinthebelfry.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=Priest+Hats&Category_Code=Theatrical+Hat%2CCostume+Hat%2CMilitary+Hat



Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby
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Just testing.
Again.
--sue
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Doublets-n-kirtles-n-skirts, oh my!
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Hi, Kate.
I do earlier stuff, mostly, but it occurs to me that if you want to
access a tied-on pocket under your skirts (and correct me if I'm wrong,
but I'm envisioning those 18th c. pairs of pockets on a waist-thingie
here), you could just make a finished access-slit where your pocket will
be, and put the skirt's actual opening where it needs to go.
I've done front, back, and side-opening gowns successfully, and have
evidence for all, so that's not a problem (at least in my time period). 
I'll admit, though, that the front-opening ones are definitely easier to
get into, as I'm usually dressing myself.
--sue

Kate M Bunting wrote:
> 
> I have a question for those ladies who say they always stitch their
> bodices to their "skirts". How do you get into the resulting
> combination? Does it assume that both garments open at the back?
> 
> I do 1630s/40s, and as these styles are somewhat high-waisted it would
> be handy to have the two parts attached, so as to avoid gaps. However, I
> normally make my bodices front-opening (for convenience) and skirts
> opening at the right side (for easy access to a tied-on pocket
> underneath). I have used hooks in the past, but that means a further
> complication to an outfit that's already slow and laborious to put on.
> 
> Comments, anyone?
> 
> Kate Bunting
> Library, University of Derby
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Sorry! I sent my earlier post without finishing it. All I was going to say
was that I would shop ANYWHERE that helped me find clothes that looked good
together. The people at this store really put together great looking
outfits, and fit my husband wel. They didn't just grab lots of things they
wanted to sell and TELL him they looked good. I'm under the impression that
fine menswear stores always used to do this. When did they stop?

Gail Finke



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Subject: [h-cost] Mens measurements & Bob Trump
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The men's ensemble calculation is a separate book. (I think you're 
talking about Doublet and Trunkhose, as opposed to The Annotated 
Arnold.)

I haven't talked to Bob for a while. And the publisher he was using 
is no longer being managed by my best friend, so I have no clue 
whether it's still available through them. (Alfhaurager Press, if I 
spelled that right.)

Kat
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
I haven't seen Bob's book in awhile either but Matt of Desert Torch
Tailoring:  http://www.deserttorch.com/  worked with him for several
years and is now off on his own.  At Lilies he mentioned he has a new
way to figure the measurements in Alcega.  He might be able to help.

Catherine
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hi,

I found some simular pictures on this site
http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/diary2002/page1.html

Greetings,
        Deredere

Sharon Greany wrote:

>Hi everyone, 
> 
>I'm a lurker, and I love everyones input on project. I in the middle of making a Spanish Ropa or sometimes it's called a Loose Dress (1550-1600's) Most of the portraits on the subject only show to about there hip line. So here is the question
> 
>Farthingale? or no Farthingale? 
> 
>Janet Arnold's Loose gown in "Pattern of Fashion" is German, and I read that in that time period, that region didn't pick up the Spanish fashion of Farthingale's. Some of the English Loose Gowns look like they have a small version farthingale
> 
>This is the portrait.  http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Isabella%20Eugenia%20C.jpg
> 
>Any Ideas?
> 
>Thanks
>Sharon
>
>
>---------------------------------
>Do you Yahoo!?
>SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
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>



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The Pacific NW has them too. And you're right, the service is incredible.
My husband's rather hard to fit, and they did a great job!

Arlys

> Anyway, we ended up at a Mens Wearhouse, which is a chain of men's 
> stores in
> malls. Maybe national, but certainly regional to the east and 
> midwest US. It
> was incredible! Eight people worked at this tiny store, and when we 
> walked
> in a salesman grabbed him and started measuring him and pulling 
> things off
> the shelf. Before we knew it, they had him in a pair of dress 
> trousers and
> shoes (he was wearing shorts and a t-shirt) and a fine gauge knit 
> sweater.
> While he was looking at the coats, two other employees were whirring 
> around
> the store pulling out shirts, ties, and sweaters to show him all the
> different outfits that he could get with each coat.
> 
> We bought three, and two sweaters. I hope he will wear them all -- 
> but they
> were each different and smashing. He is going to do more sales calls 
> with
> our business, so he can use them for that.
> 
> It was great! I since found out that my brother shops there, and 
> that he
> just goes in and tells him what he needs clothes for and what his 
> budget is,
> and they get him great stuff.
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 07:32:43 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost]  Growth, menarche, swimming, and body size (WAS:
	re:Average Height)
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Slightly off topic--why would my endicronologist suspect I have Marfan's?
I'm tall and gangly and big-boned. Am adopted so have no idea re:
biological heritage. Hit menarche just a few weeks before my 12th
birthday and reached my full height by the age of 16. Despite that,
managed not to have a completely dreadful adolescence, much to my
parents' relief. ;)

Costume content--of coure all that tall and gangly made it impossible for
me to find clothes, especially as a teenager. I bought men's dress shirts
for years because it was the only way I could get sleeves long enough!

Arlys



On Thu, 17 Jul 2003 18:37:34 -0700 kat@grendal.rain.com writes:
> 
> > Thanks Kat for answering the questions.
> > 
> > I did your formula, and it worked but all my boys except the extra
> > tall one.
> 
> Any Marfan's in your family? That's one of the causes for people to 
> be larger than the midparental height would predict. There are also 
> other causes for it (such as growth hormone excess such as Fred 
> Gwynn 
> the guy who played Herman Munster supposedly had. But they get a 
> typical look to their foreheads.)
> 
> Kat
> <kat@redtrollforge.com>
> 
> 
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Subject: [h-cost] OT - Motel of Mysteries
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Aahh.  I'll have to look it up again.  It's been far too long (as you can 
tell from my butured description of the satire).  I wonder if I read them 
both and they've meshed together over the years.

Thanks for giving the author's name and title.  It shouldn't be too dificult 
for me to locate again.

:) jessica

>"Motel of the Mysteries," by the brilliant David Macaulay. Though it's the
>culture of Usa that his archaeologists are studying; the Nacerima is from
>another satire -- I've forgotten whose.
>
>--Robin
>
>
>

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Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 11:17:48 -0700
From: Dawn Jacobson <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: pirates of the caribbean
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At 11:59 PM 7/15/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>Hi, All. Just to add a little more fuel to the fire, and then I'll retire 
>(as they used to say, start the fight and then offer to hold the 
>coats...).  If the Lady was too tightly laced, then maybe she should have 
>directed her venom towards the cause of the problem..it seems that the 
>whole "joke" of the thing was directed toward the not-so-knowledgeable 
>(read "gullible" ) public who equate corsetting with horrible deformities 
>and some sort of male induced bondage/punishment ritual. If some of you 
>did indeed gather something else from the plotline, then perhaps there was 
>more to the thing than first attacked my senses.  I am also partially 
>offended because, as usual, Hollywood has taken a legitimate historical 
>period, with legitimate historical documentation regarding the lives of 
>some nautical criminal elements, and made it "jolly good fun". It is very 
>hard to do any mid to late 17th Cent. or early 18th Cent. reenactment of 
>any military or nautical type without  (especially after such a film) 
>being bombarded with people wanting their kids to have their pictures 
>taken with "the pirates", then not wanting to be provided with any real 
>information of any historical value. It maked the job harder for folks 
>actually reenacting "The Golden Age of Piracy", or almost any maritime 
>venture. And besides, I don't think I've ever seen a pirate with mascara 
>(though, if it helps them get through their day, I say, go for it)  ;)
>Trying to get off the Hook, Mike T.

This should make it interesting for the owner of the Royaliste, as she's 
now berthed in Sausalito (San Francisco Bay), and he's been recruiting in 
the local reenacting community for a crew.

Dawn

Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Menswear
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I have to jump on the bandwagon and sing the praises of Men's Warehouse.

My husband is quite large.  I can't remember his shirt size off the top of 
my head, but I can't find it in any store except Nordstroms (which I'm not 
about to pay $200 for a stupid dress shirt he's going to ruin in a month's 
time!!!!!), the big & tall stores (poor selection and most of the clothes 
are WAY too big)  and Men's Warehouse.

I've learned my lesson.  If he needs new clothes for work, we go straight to 
M.W.  I don't waist any time trying to find them any where else.

The sales people are so fantastic.  They really know their stuff!  And they 
understand the customer who is on a budget.  They also understand my 
husbands mentality of not knowing specifically what he wants but he knows 
what he doesn't like.  Very particular about what he doesn't like to wear, 
with no real details of what he actually likes to wear.

I think they are national.  At least they are all over the West Coast.  They 
also have a great service to their customers in which they fit the pants, 
suits, coats, etc.  in their store and you can pick it up in the next couple 
of days and they offer lifetime pressing for suits and coats.  This is 
fantastic for the traveling male.  We've been out of town to a wedding and 
realized that his suit got wrinkled in the trip.  We took it to M.W. in the 
morning and in a couple of hours was able to pick it up pressed as good as 
new.

Anyway, just a very happy customer, no affiliation at all.

:) jessica


>Anyway, we ended up at a Mens Wearhouse, which is a chain of men's stores 
>in
>malls. Maybe national, but certainly regional to the east and midwest US. 
>It
>was incredible!

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At 09:00 AM 7/17/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>>I'm trying to find (quickly!) an all-in-one body
>>shaper that will minimize the bust to wear under a
>>(copy) 1928 tea frock. It seems that that was the
>>solution for the "woman with the generous figure
>>trying to achieve the desired boyish look called for
>>by modish fashions," (1927 Sears catalog), but most of
>>the ones I've seen recently don't minimize the bust.
>>
>>Any ideas on where to look? Thanks!
>>
>>Dawn
>
>I've tried to solve this same problem, and it's nearly impossible.
>Since those all-in-one body shapers are sized for women's figures, it's 
>not possible to find one which compresses the bust.  My first solution 
>would be to wear a tight-fitting sports bra *over* the body shaper, to 
>compress as much as possible.  Or, better yet, use a 16th or 17th C corset 
>over a long-line panty girdle.  Lace the corset tighter at the top and 
>looser toward the waist, aiming for the straight up and down look.
>
>Good luck - and please let us know what you did and how well it worked!
>
>Allison

It turn out that Bali makes one ("Body by Bali") with moderate control that 
"minimizes" the bust. I just this minute tried it on with the slip and the 
dress and it works.

Now I just have to find an appropriate pair of bone pumps and a bone 
clutch, and see if I have a pair of ecru gloves.

Dawn

Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are the costumes we wear every day. 
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Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 09:52:12 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dawn Jacobson <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Pensic/SCA Fighter Shirts HELP?!
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At 03:26 PM 7/17/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>Lil Sorepaws <sorepaws@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> >With Pensic right around the corner I find myself somehow volunteered to
>Oy. :)
>
>I would base the shirt/tunic on the St. Louis tunic, etc.  The only 
>"modern" nod that I'd completely avoid is the tendency to cut the shirt 
>all in one gingerbread man piece - there's an enormous amount of stress at 
>the armpits, which is the last place a fighter wants it.
>
>Instead, a moderately close-fitting sleeve with a gusset will give the 
>person lots of room to move.
>
>You could leave the center front and back gores out if you wanted to save 
>time at the cost of wasting some fabric.
>
>Personally, I wouldn't bother with french seams, etc - the fabric is going 
>to take much more wear on the surface than stress on the seams.
>
>Constance

Uh, if the information in MOL "Textiles" is correct, there are shoulder 
seams, as the sleeves are cut separate from the  body of the shirt (it also 
means you can cut it out of narrow--24-28 inch wide--fabric). The pattern 
layout is ingenious--I've used it and had only 1 tiny scrap (from the hole 
for the head to go through) when I've finished.

Dawn

Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are the costumes we wear every day. 
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Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 09:57:33 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dawn Jacobson <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian color swatch book
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At 04:59 PM 7/17/2003 -0400, Drea wrote:
>I'm so excited, I had to share...I just nabbed a copy of a book called
>"The English Dyer: With Instructions Showing How To Dye 150 Shades On
>Cotton Yarns In The Hank; 50 Shades On Cotton Wool; 150 Shades On Worsted
>Yarns; 100 Shades On Animal Wool; And 50 Shades On Silk In The Skein".
>
>The book was printed in 1882.  And here's the cool part: /every recipe has
>an actual fabric swatch showing the results!/ Can we say, finally matching
>up color names with the actual shades?  And, knowing if a dye batch came
>out right or not?
>
>Wowsers!!
>
>*bounce*bounce*

Oh, now that *is* cool! Congratulations!

And you're going to share all this lovely information with your friends 
online, right? ;-D

Dawn
(doin' the happy dance with 4 new books on 16th century Flanders)


Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are the costumes we wear every day. 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian color swatch book
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I am so, so incredibly jealous!  I'd (almost but not quite) trade my London
trip for the book!

Pam Dotson
----- Original Message -----
From: "Drea Leed" <drea@nospam>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 1:59 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Victorian color swatch book


> I'm so excited, I had to share...I just nabbed a copy of a book called
> "The English Dyer: With Instructions Showing How To Dye 150 Shades On
> Cotton Yarns In The Hank; 50 Shades On Cotton Wool; 150 Shades On Worsted
> Yarns; 100 Shades On Animal Wool; And 50 Shades On Silk In The Skein".
>
> The book was printed in 1882.  And here's the cool part: /every recipe has
> an actual fabric swatch showing the results!/ Can we say, finally matching
> up color names with the actual shades?  And, knowing if a dye batch came
> out right or not?
>
> Wowsers!!
>
> *bounce*bounce*
>
> Drea
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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Oh Bjarne, it's lovely! What beautiful fabric!

Another fantastic garment from your needle!

Gail Finke


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Could you achieve the slim 1920's shape using a
combination of shaper and breast binding? I'm thinking
you could put the shaper (with modern bra shape) on
first, then Ace bandages over, and then a snug sports
bra to finish. Would that be too awful/hot/weird  or
show with your dress? 
The ace bandage/sports bra combo is pretty
comfortable, i'm told by actresses who've worn it when
playing male roles, even one gal in her first trimester.

=====
An eye for an eye makes the whole world blind.  Gandhi

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Genie

>IIRC forensic pathologists can tell the difference between mens and womens
skeletons by the pelvic size/differences?

The those who say it I must say in the nicest possible way tosh :)

It is 'a' pointer only You take several factors into consideration in
sexing, but often you are wrong (if they later do DNA) Pelviss(sp ??) of the
female (living) are pelvic type 20% have male type (android)
25% have Ape like (anthropoid) 5% have flat (Platypelloid) and only 50% have
normal female (gynecoid)

>  Something to do with
childbearing.

Childbearing is easier with a female pelvis, but not all females HAVE a
female pelvis :) And you can't reliabily tell if a pelvis has born children
!

 > Also, the length/thickness of the skeleton.

Men are generally more robust, or so the assumption goes. But I could cite
so many examples of moving goal posts to suit but I will just use one I
typed up recently

Mel


I have finally got the Blood Red Roses book !

Page 47 in the first paragraph of "Assessment of sex" " In a medieval
battlefield situation it is to be expected that the majority, if not all, of
the burials will be those of males"

Could there be a more biased statement than that prior to presenting the
evidence ?

We then have sexing on the pelvis they give 100% male, as I've said
previously 20% of females have typical male pelvii

But they have assessed on pelvic examination as 100% male

On cranial assessment they suggest three individual have less robust cramia
1, 10, 12 They then go onto say this robustacy is difficult to assess in
young men
but 1, 10 and 23 are assessed as age groups 26-35, 16-25, 26-35 overall but
if you look closly at 10 only his dentition really falls in that age range
with other assment being over 23 min, Therefore I'm not really convinced to
their youth.

In Measurmnt of vertical diameters .... part "Three males from Towton fall
into the ? sex catagory" perhaps it is just me but how can those skellies be
males and ? sex These are 1, 6, 23

So 1 has two out of 3 indication of non maleness, sexing is based on bias
and pelvis in the main I feel.

Page 55 height notes 23 and 18 are particularly small. Stature can be an
indication of sex too.

23 is 5'2 1/2" and yes 23 was also a ? sex , so possible female if you are
unbiased

So we have two, possibily 3, who I belive in a domestic grave situation
would at least be considered as possible females.

Another factor on height p 55 suggests "The stature of the three mature
adults from Towton reinforce the latter theory" They were by far the tallest
with a statue of 175cm"

/But look at the table 5.5 there are several considerably taller

22 at 183.5, (age 25-36)24 179.3 (same age) 33 181.6 (same age) there are
others a little taller too

The book then sayes "It is probable that the two taller individuals from
this group (Towton 8 and 16) were more experianced soldiers, espectially
when cosidering their general build and evidence of healed trauma...."

This is supposed to support the theory that they were the tallest, more awe
inspiring and therefore more experiance. But the big flaw is they were not
the tallest ! being 2 or 3 inches shorter that the real tallest in the group
!! That they were more experianced due to age & battle scars I could buy,
but the rest is flawed
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: average height
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>However, I have read that, for a man and woman of the *same* height and
weight
the strength difference is very modest, somewhere in the vicinity of 10%.

This sounds more likely to me

> Is he stronger or does he just push the envelope further ?

>Don't know what you mean by this.

Men have more to prove, ie our culture 'requires' them to be strong, but it
does not require this of women

Mel#



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Average Height
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>Size doesn't equal strength 

I meant height/body frame

Mel

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>Many years ago, when my mother was living with us and my now 14 y.o. son
was
only two, he discovered a hole in one of our walls

The differance as I understand it is that these appear to have been sealed
in at the time

Mel

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: average height/muscle mass
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>She said the AMA says average males: 5' 10", females:  5' 5" - 5'
6".


Pretty similar to my skellies interesting :)

Mel

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>Clothing was valuable, but not when it's worn out 
or of poor quality to begin with.

The stuff is NOT rags or worn out clothing, it was clothing and shoes.

Mel

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Hmm.... Is the list down? I haven't gotten a single message since yesterday. 
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul 21 11:43:49 2003
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From: michael tartaglio <mikes@dandy.net>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] catholic priest hats
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Hi, All. In the US, you might want to try Hatcrafters for a fully made 
one, or search out hat blanks from theatrical suppliers if you don't.  I 
think Hatcrafters is at www.hatcrafters.com, but I might be mistaken. 
Cheers, Mike T.



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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul 21 11:47:42 2003
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Email problem?
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I haven't gotten any h-costume mail since yesterday.  Is there a problem with 
my connection, or is everyone simply on vacation?

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
 
"You live and learn, or you don't live long."
 Robert Heinlein

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul 21 11:48:55 2003
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Subject: [h-cost] Semi-OT: Winter Cloak (non-costume) Interlining/padding
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Well, the reason this is "semi-OT" is because the cloak I'm making isn't a 
costume- it's a mundane Vogue cloak.  I'm making it out of coat-weight 100% 
cashmere (fabric.com and a 20% coupon.  No full price for me!), and I'm lining it 
in black polyester slipper or duchess satin- can't remember what it was 
called.  It's pretty and shiny.  Anyhow.  This is supposed to be my daily winter 
coat, but my parents are concerned that it will not be warm enough (they seem to 
be concerned about a lot of things these days.  Must be the whole 
off-to-college separation anxiety thing).  So...does anyone have an idea of what I can use 
to interline or pad this cloak, so that it's warmer but not bulky?  It's 
about mid-thigh length, and I've drafted a hood onto it- it closes in the front 
with snaps and has hand slits.  I'm thinking of some sort of fusible batting, 
maybe (that way I can fuse it down and then flatline-sew it to either the lining 
or the cashmere itself), but I have no idea.  Ah..help!

Christine
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From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: hidden stuff
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First, let me say that I don't know anything about concealed things in
buildings. I have no opinion of whether or not they are "ritual" objects.

But I want to caution everyone to check sources! Just as costume research
has good and bad sources, occult/witchcraft/ritual stuff should always be
considered suspect, at least at first. Even more than costume research. Much
"generally known information" about such things comes from the same highly
suspect sources in the 1920s and late 1800s, when there was both a craze for
esoteric knowledge and a boom of people claiming to have rediscovered all
sorts of lost knowledge -- often, really, by channeling it or getting it
through other "occult" means. Many of these sources were later quoted by
other people.

I'm not saying there isn't any real information on such things! But a lot of
any information about folk practices and traditions is just made up. You've
got to trace the information back to the original source to check its
veracity, even if a professional tells you it's true. Just like costuming.

Gail Finke


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Has something happened to this list?  I haven't seen anything for almost 2 
days.
Ann Wass
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Just testing.


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From: "Janet Davis" <castle@erie.net>
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	<4.3.1.2.20030717164932.00e2d870@mail.frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] catholic priest hats
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This hat is somewhat similier..
http://nla.gov.au/nla.pic-an22931592

The brim on this one is flatter..
http://www.charitysplace.com/review/review_scarletblack.htm

Janet

Janet Davis
Castle Furnishings
http://www.medievalbookstore.com 

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From: "A.Thurman" <athurman@cybergal.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] partlets and matching sleeves?
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I have some leftover linen from prior projects - not enough for a smock, but
enough for a couple of partlets and maybe some matching sleeves.

That's my question - I've read in more than one source that partlets
sometimes had matching sleeves, but this site is the only place I've seen it
implied that the sleeves were laced to the partlet itself, instead of to a
gown/kirtle:

http://www.vertetsable.com/demos_partlets.htm

I've already looked through some of my books and have seen no pictures that
appear to show lacing of linen sleeves to a linen partlet, and I'm going to
pick through QEWU to see if I see any descriptions of such a thing, but has
anyone else run across such a thing (either in a painting, an extant sample,
etc?) Not trying to get out of "doing my homework", just curious!

Allison T.

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No mail from H Cost for 2 days
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@austar.net.au>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: why not to release corsets quickly
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>Interesting, because I am NOW doing my First Aid at work refresher course
>(written exam in half an hour) and there is no such thing as the maneouver
you
>suggest. I wonder if there are country differences in First Aid. The
Heimlich
>is not called heimlich anymore to confuse everybody *laughs* but according
to
>the teacher this week, it is still done, the difference is, the straddling
of
>the casualty, once unconscious and lying on the ground, is NOT done
anymore,
>instead 15 chest compressions are done.
>Weird, if you ask me, and the hushed explanation was: political correctness
>gone mad coz one shouldn't straddle anyone. Yeah rght, if I ever choke to
death
>I don't give a doodah who straddles me to get the stuff out.
>
>It's very interesting what you say, I have to ask the teacher in a mo!
>
>Nicole


I think it is almost certainly a difference due to country, I did a
lifeguard course in England just over a year ago (including some first aid)
& their solution to choking was something like a CPR chest compression only
sharper & then if that doesn't work the heimlich maneuvre (what exactly do
they call it now?). I prefer the version I was taught in Australia as it
seems to me that in both positions (standing up or lying on their back) the
person is likely to inhale the object again, that's why you put them on
their side when they're unconscious, so they don't choke on anything they
may have in their mouth (like their tongue).
Like I said pushing on the side of their chest is more feasible if they're
wearing a corset than trying to get a fist up underneath the ribs (which
relies on the concept of having a soft part there)
Elizabeth


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Average Height
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-----Original Message-----
From: Genie <kerowyn@mindspring.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Thursday, July 17, 2003 10:13 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Average Height


>Hi Mel,
>
>IIRC forensic pathologists can tell the difference between mens and womens
>skeletons by the pelvic size/differences?   Something to do with
>childbearing.  Also, the length/thickness of the skeleton.
>
>Genie


Yep men will tend to carry more weight (muscle & bone, fat tends to go round
the middle) and women will tend to carry more of their weight (muscle, bone
& fat) around their hips. & in terms of skeleton _most_ women will have a
broader pelvis than shoulders, & men vice versa.
Interesting experiment, kneel on the floor put your hands behind your back &
try to touch the floor with your nose, (with a few exceptions) Men will fall
over & Women will be able to touch the ground & come back up without much
trouble (unless of course you have back problems). this is due to women's
lower centre of gravity, because men carry more weight on their shoulders
than women.
Obligatory costume content, this is why men don't look as good in women's
clothes (as women) and women don't look as good in men's clothes (as men)
coz they were designed for a different body shape.
Elizabeth Walpole

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>I never did find on the websites the reason why the game is called Marco
>Polo.  Now this makes me wonder why is the horse game polo is called
*polo.*
>
>Penny Ladnier
IIRC it's named after an Indian town/province where the English discovered
it, it may be a corruption, or shortening of the original name. I definitely
know that Polo was based on an Indian game, but I may have got it wrong
about how the name came about (perhaps it's a corruption or shortening of
what the Indians called it)
Costume content: well they wear clothes when they play polo don't they. ;)
Elizabeth Walpole

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Does the list shut down over the weekends now? I only seem to get messages
on the weekdays.

Gail Finke


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Re hiding clothes in building 
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Cat Devereaux" <CatDevereaux@alleycatscratch.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2003 12:03 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Re hiding clothes in building


> > He also discovered that
> >it was a really neat place to hide Grandma's shoes! We never did get
> them
> >all out--so someone, someday, will find them and wonder why...some sort
> of
> >ritual attached to high-heeled shoes, perhaps? Lol
>
> Ah, that is not just something little boys do.   Part of my family
> (multi-generation) has been in construction.  Future archeologist are
> going to find at the end of every major freeway section (that was built
> at one time), things like big bras, panties and sometime stiletto heels.
> It is a tradition that this stuff goes in with the last load of
> concrete.  It is something management has learned not to mess with... or
> the construction team will do something to screw up that batch of
> concrete, and the final bit will have to be repoured again.


Ah. So, David's actions should have been an early clue--he is starting
vocational high school this year, and plans to go into construction!!

Dianne



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Doublets-n-kirtles-n-skirts, oh my!
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>> And now you know of at least 1 person who didn't have to. Me.
>>
>> Admittedly, it's been a number of years since I built an English
>> Elizabethan (I'm doing different times/styles now), but I've never 
>> had to
>> put hooks at the waistband, simply because I cut the bodice about 1/2"
>> longer. Once it's finished, it's long enough that it is slightly 
>> longer
>> than the length to the bottom of the waistband, and is on the skirt
>> material (just a tiny bit!) itself. As I'm a firm believer in, "If it
>> moves, flat-line it; if it still moves, bone it!", I've always lightly
>> boned my bodices with 1/4" flat steels. The bodice stays put.

I've always had problems with my skirts going south when they're not 
attached to my bodice.  Making the bodice longer doesn't take care of 
the problem, either, plus it causes it to wrinkle at the waist which 
doesn't look flattering on me.  When I was younger, we'd resort to 
hooking the skirt to the inside of the bodice to keep them from gapping 
at the waist.  Now it makes more sense to just sew them together, or 
use a set of points to attach them, both of which are definitely period 
solutions to this problem.

Sarah
http://www.elizabethanlady.com

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Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 16:13:51 -0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Semi-OT: Winter Cloak (non-costume) Interlining/padding
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     The standard thing I know of is lambswool.  It's a plain natural color 
wool, sort of loosely woven so there's lots of air space.  

     You could also get a thermal-backed lining, or even use a quilted lining 
if you want more warmth.

     -Carol


IceGirlNIN@aol.com said:
> So...does anyone have an idea of what I can use 
> to interline or pad this cloak, so that it's warmer but not bulky?

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From: Lil Sorepaws <sorepaws@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Washing Silk and SHantung ...
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Hi, hope you folks will know the answer to this (I left my Betzina Fabric
Savvy at home somewhere)...

I wants to make a choli out of shantung silk .. will it be wash-able or
will I have to dry clean it?  Will the silk lose most of its "shine" ?  I
have this stunning copper gold and really want to make something cool out
of it but only have two yards of 54 wide ...

ALso, anyone have an idea of how many yards a pair of harem pants would
take?  54" wide and I am 32 waist 39 hips, 30 inseam ...

ANY advice most welcome ... 

And BIG thanks to the person (forgive my memory loss!!) who suggested the
St. Louis Tunic for the men's fighting garb!!

- Lil the Lurker ;)

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: menswear2
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> Sorry! I sent my earlier post without finishing it. All I was going to 
> say
> was that I would shop ANYWHERE that helped me find clothes that looked 
> good
> together. The people at this store really put together great looking
> outfits, and fit my husband wel. They didn't just grab lots of things 
> they
> wanted to sell and TELL him they looked good. I'm under the impression 
> that
> fine menswear stores always used to do this. When did they stop?

When it became easier to walk into your local Target and grab the first 
thing you see and buy it.  I read recently somewhere (think it might 
have been CNN.com) that menswear stores like Men's Warehouse are 
closing because guys just don't shop there any more.

Of course, when I tried to search for that article, I turned up some 
figures that indicated Men's Warehouse had an increase in profits this 
last quarter.  Argh!

Sarah
http://www.elizabethanlady.com

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In a message dated 7/21/2003 11:23:31 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
triade@kabelfoon.nl writes:

> http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/diary2002/page1.html
> 

Very nice


I love, on the research page, the 2 children's' outfits.
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Penny,

It would be fantastic if you would share this with the list!  It's one of 
those seven wonders of the world...  :)

I hope your country western song is doing better!

:)  jessica


>Someone asked about measuring men for suits... I learned to eyeballing it
>too.  I will look into for you.  I am sure I must have it in one of the
>books around here.
>

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Another option would be to wear exercise wear underneath, since leotards
or yoga togs often try to constrict the bust for comfort during 
workouts, whereas
most modern bras & shapers are going for maximum cleavage.

.heather.

On Wednesday, July 16, 2003, at 07:17 PM, Kendra Van Cleave wrote:

> Hi Dawn,
>
> I'm not sure if this will work, but I found one minimizing bodyshaper 
> at
> herroom.com --
>
> http://www.herroom.com/Va_Bien,Vab001-701,4.cfm
>
> It doesn't cover the thighs, though.
>
> Let me know if you find anything else -- I need one of these too!
>
> - Kendra
>
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>From: "Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk>
>>Clothing was valuable, but not when it's worn out
>>or of poor quality to begin with.
>The stuff is NOT rags or worn out clothing, it was clothing and shoes.

Um, it's easy to get locked into the all or nothing thing with something 
like this.  Some concealed items are good items, some clearly are trash and 
rags (just look at the two doublets on the deliberately concealed clothing 
site, just as an example), and some appear to have been intentionally 
damaged (this latter is one of the big arguments of it being a "ritual" 
practice, that the shoes or clothes have been "killed").

Marc

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My husband, too, used to me a fan of Men's Warhorse.  It is neat to have them 
show you "the looks," and we got ideas of ways to use things they already 
had.  But, on our last visit, we found the merchandise depressingly 
uninspiring--entirely too many 3- and 4-button suits, for one thing.  Also, my husband is 
now a better fit in a 41 chest, which they don't have.  So we have switched our 
allegiance to Joseph A. Banks, which I think is strictly local here in the 
mid-Atlantic.  He gets a better fit, but it is true that we have to do more of 
the work of matching ourselves.
Ann Wass
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There are also studies that indicate this is related to living with
artificial lighting as well - that is linked with earlier periods and
with breast cancer.

.heather.


On Wednesday, July 16, 2003, at 02:37 AM, Dawn Wood wrote:

> I suspect this has a lot to do with hormones in food as much as 
> anything
> else several of my friends daughters have started theirs by the age of 
> 10
>
> Dawn
> Ages Of Elegance makers of Historical reproduction Clothing, Uniforms 
> and
> Bridalwear
>  http://www.agesofelegance.co.uk 0113 277 6716
> , girls' body are
>>> maturing at a faster rate that 25 years ago.  Most girls are starting
> their
>>> period now between the age of 11-13 y.o.   This is also backed up 
>>> with
>>> better nutrition.
>>
>
>
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Status: RO

that was just what I thought when I read that URL ;)

.heather.


On Tuesday, July 15, 2003, at 08:42 PM, Jeff Brainard wrote:

> fettered cock? sounds more like an associate of Mr.S (well known
> leather shop in the Castro--I'm sure Heather lives across the street or
> something)
>
> J.
>
>
> --- Beteena Paradise <bkessinger@ureach.com> wrote:
>> Someone was asking about vendors for medieval pins. Fettered Cock
>> Pewters
>> sells two styles. One is a quatrefoil and the other is an acorn. They
>> are at
>> the bottom of this page:
>>
>> http://www.fetteredcockpewters.com/page_various_sundry.htm
>>
>> Teena
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Carako Jacket/ Redingote is updated
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Status: RO

Hello,
I am sorry that i have not ben following your topics lately, but i am buisy.
I go to Stockholm, Sweden friday night with a nighttrain.
I am buisy making an outfit for a lady whom i am escorting to the "Grande
Fte a la Nature" at Haga Park in Stockholm. The Swedish society "Gustafs
Skl" is celebrating their 25th. aneversary
The lady is going to wear my latest work. You can se my progress here:
I need to make the laceholes in the corset, make the hem of the underskirt,
the hem of the jacket, and sew on the jacket sleaves. The Jacket also needs
laceholes center front, where it is laced together.
So you can se i have ben buisy lately..........
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/caraco_jacket.htm
Any coments is warmly recomended, also critisism :-)

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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Jessica,

I am sorry for not getting back to you all sooner.  Everything around my
house is breaking or getting hit by lighting.  Even my dog came down
sick.... kinda like a country western song.

That is wonderful about Mens Warehouse pressing suits.  I believe S&K
Menswear is pretty good too.We have MW on the East Coast too.

Someone asked about measuring men for suits... I learned to eyeballing it
too.  I will look into for you.  I am sure I must have it in one of the
books around here.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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We've found a variety of things in our walls and our friends walls 
(victorian flats in San Francisco)
as we've been doing remodels.  The contractor a friend of mine hired to 
put in a wall in her flat
came to her house that day with copies of all the day's papers, that he 
put in the wall that day.
He saw it as leaving something to interest the person that would take 
the wall down later,
and a little sign of himself and the current times, rather like a time 
capsule.  We found newspapers in our walls,
too  - just pages, not enough to be insulating at all.


On Thursday, July 17, 2003, at 12:17 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:

>
>>
>>
>> One of the things that we do have information on is a variety of 
>> magical and occult practices over the centuries, many of these 
>> traditions and practices -have- been written down and follow specific 
>> symbolic patterns.  'Witch bottles' fall into this category, and yes, 
>> they have a specific contect that they are likely to be found in.
>>
>
> So is it written down what modern construction workers think they are 
> doing if they intentionally conceal items?  Is it a prank rather than 
> a magical belief?
>
> Fran
>
>
>
>
> Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
> Historic and Vintage Dance
> http://www.lavoltapress.com/dance
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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Subject: [h-cost] 1830's undergarments
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Hello, I am new to the list and for a very brief introduction, my name is
Sarah, I am 17 and have been reenacting the Civil War (1860-1865) period for
about five years. My hobby is researching and recreating historical
garments. I strive to be as authentic to the original(s) as possible and I
love the challenge of research!

  I am going to be volunteering at a small 1830's historical town in the
coming months and am right now researching clothing of the 30's,
specifically the years 1834-1836. I have come up with a lot of information
in the past few weeks, but am eager to learn more.

First, I have a question about the corsets/stays of the period. So far the
original support garments I've seen are corded and not boned. Would all 30's
corsets and stays have been corded? Or could boning be added? I've made up a
muslin of my pattern and cording doesn't seem to support me very well.
Perhaps this is how it should be, but compared to my 1860's corset, there's
a LOT of wrinkles and pulls. Also, in pictures of the orignals I've seen,
all corsets/stays seem to have a shoulder straps--in some cases being tied
to the stay at front in back, in others being cut with the stay.

I've heard a lot about the layers of petticoats worn during the 30's to give
the desired fullness to the skirts. Would a corded petticoat have been worn
to give more body to the skirts, or would the ladies then just have piled on
the layers of petticoats? Would petticoats have been flounced, or stiffened
at the hem?

What would a chemise have been like? Gussets under the arm, or a bias-cut
seam with no gussets? Or were both methods used?

What materials would be proper to make these garments up in? I'm thinking
cotton or linen, but if there are any other possible materials, please let
me know!

Thanks so much for any help!

Sarah

P.S. The impression I'm striving for is a upper-lower class, or a middle
class lady in a semi- rural setting. :)

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Menswear
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"jessica stier" <jessicastier@hotmail.com> wrote:


>I have to jump on the bandwagon and sing the praises of Men's Warehouse.
>My husband is quite large. I can't remember his shirt size off the top of 
>my head, but I can't find it in any store except Nordstroms (which I'm not 
>about to pay $200 for a stupid dress shirt he's going to ruin in a month's 
>time!!!!!), the big & tall stores (poor selection and most of the clothes 
>are WAY too big) and Men's Warehouse.

Hmm. So far, Frank has had nothing but trouble with Men's Wearhouse.

First of all, they do *not* have a big-and-tall department. Pants go up to 
a size 60, but without the necessary changes in cut (longer crotch depth 
for tall men, longer crotch length and fuller belly/seat/thighs for big 
men) that you will find at a proper Big-And-Tall shop. Their shirts run up 
to a size 20 Regular and they do not have Big cuts, which are wider in the 
body and sleeves for the same neck size.

Second, the quality of their clothes is highly variable. Frank bought two 
suits and two pair of slacks from them back in August or September. One 
suit came back OK, the other one came back with the pants way too large 
(and they had measured both for alterations before he purchased them). The 
alterations cost almost as much as the garments did. After dry-cleaning, 
Frank brought the suit pants back in for alteration. The tailor decided 
that with the amount of alteration needed, he needed to take in the sides 
-- an expensive alteration which was not covered in the free re-alterations 
for life package. They came out too tight. So back in for re-alteration 
again. They came out, seemed to be okay, and the first time Frank went to 
wear them, the fabric split in the crotch. So now this entire expensive 
suit is ruined. For the same amount of money, Frank could have gotten a 
decent (though not stylish) suit with expert alterations at Frank's Big And 
Tall (no relation).

>I've learned my lesson. If he needs new clothes for work, we go straight 
>to M.W. I don't waist any time trying to find them any where else.

I'm glad it works for you. It works for most "normal-sized" people. So far 
I have *not* been pleased with the value Frank has gotten for his money.

>I think they are national. At least they are all over the West Coast.

I'm pretty sure they are.

>They also have a great service to their customers in which they fit the 
>pants, suits, coats, etc. in their store and you can pick it up in the 
>next couple of days

Ten business days in our area, about the same as any other place.

On the good side, they have a much better selection of long ties than 
Casual Male Big & Tall does...



Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Menswear
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2003 12:27 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Menswear


>  Everything around my
> house is breaking or getting hit by lighting.

Strange coincidence. Our house was struck at least once by lightening Friday
night. We have various and sundry problems now too. The worst is the A/C no
longer works. At 9 this morning it was 82 degrees downstairs. Unfortunately,
my office is upstairs and I really don't want to know just how hot it is
right now.

Teena
who is melting as you read this.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Menswear
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Jessica,

I will when I get time to find the book.  BTW, S&K and Men's Warehouse are
opening new stores in our area.  With the fashion industry hurting
financially, we have to huge *fashion malls* (new name) this autumn.

I do have online some measurements for 1910 men's coats at:
http://www.costumegallery.com/1910/Men/Suits/
Just click on measurements.  Unfortunately these are lengths and not chest
measurements.

Today, I discovered our main TV was hit by lighting Friday night.  Everyone
was so upset yesterday because the phones were hit by lighting that they
forgot to tell me about the TV.  So the phones and my kinda new frig (that
decided to die Thursday night) are getting fixed tomorrow.  Our cable for
the TV and internet was also hit, but that is fixed now.

I hope we have finished our country western song saga.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: menswear
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Ann,

I know they have Joseph Banks in Richmond and Virginia Beach.  I listen to
their classy ads on the radio!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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Teena,

We had to bad storms Wed. & Fri. night.  We were on the porch Wed. night and
saw *God*.... when it hits so close that you see the bright light at the end
of tunnel.

We lost our downstairs air conditioner to a power surge a couple of years
ago. Our homeowners insurance covered it then. Then the same A/C died again
last month.   It is still under warranty for parts but not labor.  I guess
when I get my George Bush money next month, I can afford to get all these
things fixed that are not covered under warranties.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Menswear
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If anyone wants to give it a try we have a nice men's specialty shop called
Franco's that caters to men.  http://www.francos.com/men.htm  They have been
around for 30 years.  It is one of *the places* for men to shop locally.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 15:03:53 -0400
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From: Brenda <webwarren@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] Doublets-n-kirtles-n-skirts, oh my!
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Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote:

>...I've made basic "wench" garb for several friends (okay, _nice_ wench
>garb--the kind that's got a long skirt, a sleeveless bodice, and a shift),
>and it's running 3:1 in favor of getting the bodice too short.  I think 
>what's
>happening is that the skirts are shifting to a point lower than the bottom
>of the bodices--perhaps a function of a different kind of waistline?

To at least some degree, it's a function of the fabric (even interfaced to 
the hilt!) stretching out as you wear it. If I wear a skirt-only skirt and 
a bodice, by the end of the day the skirt that *was* very tight around my 
waist hangs about 2" lower down on my torso. Making gowns and kirtles 
rather than skirts helps the situation considerably :)



Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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Subject: [h-cost] The corset release thread, and pediatric cases
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Thanks, all -- and especially Kat!

I passed on the info to my doctor this morning; she was appreciative of the 
info, and that I had recalled that those ballet students could easily 
become victims of the tight-corset-and-pass-out syndrome. It's something 
she will keep in mind, and that we both hope she never has to use!


Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul 21 15:46:46 2003
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Subject: [h-cost] who wants CD's for their project???
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Greetings to the Liste....

I know this subject has made the rounds on this list _at least_ twice 
now but I need to know who it was that needed CD's for their project(s). 
  I have a pretty healthy stack looking for an artistic home. You can 
e-mail me privately so you're not annoying everyone the way I am!!!

Thanks for your indulgence,

Theresa Eacker

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul 21 16:18:02 2003
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Mens Ties
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Speaking of menswear...

     A friend was just asking about the origin of the modern necktie.  How did 
it develop into the current shape? (not counting the various widenings and 
narrowings over the years)  Was there any purpose tot he current configuration, 
to hide shirt buttons or anything like that?

     -Carol

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mens Ties
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Hi Carol,

I don't know the history, but I have the funniest website link for ties....
called KNOT, Kollectors of Nasty Old Ties:
http://www.geocities.com/RodeoDrive/4026/  I think all our fathers are
members of this site.

OT: Carol, can you please write the owner of THLS and let him know that I am
not receiving the messages from the list.  I promise wasn't a bad girl.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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Thanks to all who have replied about these dratted hats!  That gives me 
a much better idea of what I'm looking for.

Always a fan of this list and its wonderful contributors,
Melanie Schuessler
http://www.faucet.net/costume

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>
> That's my question - I've read in more than one source that partlets
> sometimes had matching sleeves, but this site is the only place I've seen it
> implied that the sleeves were laced to the partlet itself, instead of to a
> gown/kirtle:
>
> http://www.vertetsable.com/demos_partlets.htm
>
> I've already looked through some of my books and have seen no pictures that
> appear to show lacing of linen sleeves to a linen partlet, and I'm going to
> pick through QEWU to see if I see any descriptions of such a thing, but has
> anyone else run across such a thing (either in a painting, an extant sample,
> etc?) Not trying to get out of "doing my homework", just curious!

I recently came across several listings for partlets as separate from
sleeves in QE's wardrobe accounts.  They start becoming common in 1576 or
so, and are listed as an integral part of a French Gown ensemble ("Bodies,
partelett and slevis...") The sleeves are described as separate items,
though often described as decorated in a fashion similar to the partlet.
Given the known construction mechanisms of the day, I'd say the sleeves
were laced into the gown, rather than attached to the partlet.

Happy stitching,

Drea

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Lynne Connolly <lynneconnolly@ntlworld.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mens Ties
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At 20:13 21/07/2003 +0000, you wrote:
>A friend was just asking about the origin of the modern necktie.  How did
>it develop into the current shape? (not counting the various widenings and
>narrowings over the years)  Was there any purpose tot he current 
>configuration,
>to hide shirt buttons or anything like that?

It's a development of the stock and cravat, but these items weren't 
originally worn together. The stiff stock was split at the front when the 
shirt was fastened by buttons instead of ties, sometime in the early to mid 
nineteenth century, and the wide cravat was reduced in size.
In the 18th century there was a fashion for a 'solitaire,' or a thin black 
ribbon, left from the bag wig or queue at the back, drawn forward to tie 
over the stock in front.


Lynne Connolly, GSOLFOT
Award winning Historical Romance author.
The Richard and Rose books from <http://www.novelbooksinc.com/>Novelbooks Inc.
YORKSHIRE, DEVONSHIRE and now VENICE
VANESSA from <http://www.awe-struck.net/>Awe-Struck books
http://www.geocities.com/lynne_connolly2001/  

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul 21 18:28:55 2003
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Doublets-n-kirtles-n-skirts, oh my!
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 18:28:11 -0400
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I made a 1860's dress where the skirt was pleated into the waistband (as 
usual) with a left side opening, and the front-opening bodice was sewn to 
the waistband from the left side, around the back, to the front.  So you put 
on the ensemble, fasten the skirt, and then button (or hook) the bodice.



Nancy Kiel
nancy_kiel@hotmail.com
Never tease a weasel!
This is very good advice.
For the weasel will not like it
And teasing isn't nice.

>
>Kate M Bunting wrote:
> >
> > I have a question for those ladies who say they always stitch their
> > bodices to their "skirts". How do you get into the resulting
> > combination? Does it assume that both garments open at the back?
> >
> > I do 1630s/40s, and as these styles are somewhat high-waisted it would
> > be handy to have the two parts attached, so as to avoid gaps. However, I
> > normally make my bodices front-opening (for convenience) and skirts
> > opening at the right side (for easy access to a tied-on pocket
> > underneath). I have used hooks in the past, but that means a further
> > complication to an outfit that's already slow and laborious to put on.
> >
> > Comments, anyone?
> >
> > Kate Bunting
> > Library, University of Derby
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
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At 18:28 21/07/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>I made a 1860's dress where the skirt was pleated into the waistband (as 
>usual) with a left side opening, and the front-opening bodice was sewn to 
>the waistband from the left side, around the back, to the front.  So you 
>put on the ensemble, fasten the skirt, and then button (or hook) the bodice.

Nothing's new is it? I used to have an Yves St Laurent dress that did that.


Lynne Connolly, GSOLFOT
Award winning Historical Romance author.
The Richard and Rose books from <http://www.novelbooksinc.com/>Novelbooks Inc.
YORKSHIRE, DEVONSHIRE and now VENICE
VANESSA from <http://www.awe-struck.net/>Awe-Struck books
http://www.geocities.com/lynne_connolly2001/  

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul 21 19:22:32 2003
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Thanks for posting the tie link!

http://www.geocities.com/RodeoDrive/4026/dali.html

Who knew that Salvador Dali had his own line of neckties? Penny, if you
don't have a link to this site, you should!

(From the home page they are on the Hall of Fame section under Salvador
Dali).

Gail Finke


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At 06:47 PM 7/21/2003 +0200, you wrote:
>Hello,
>I am sorry that i have not ben following your topics lately, but i am buisy.
>I go to Stockholm, Sweden friday night with a nighttrain.
>I am buisy making an outfit for a lady whom i am escorting to the "Grande
>Fte a la Nature" at Haga Park in Stockholm. The Swedish society "Gustafs
>Skl" is celebrating their 25th. aneversary
>The lady is going to wear my latest work. You can se my progress here:
>I need to make the laceholes in the corset, make the hem of the underskirt,
>the hem of the jacket, and sew on the jacket sleaves. The Jacket also needs
>laceholes center front, where it is laced together.
>So you can se i have ben buisy lately..........
>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/caraco_jacket.htm
>Any coments is warmly recomended, also critisism :-)
>
>Bjarne

Ah, nuts! 8-D Bjarne, you're putting the rest of us to shame! It seems like 
you just finished that gorgeous suit, and now you've turned out this 
stunning ensemble.

Have fun in Stockholm, and take pictures so we can all share!

Dawn

Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are the costumes we wear every day. 
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Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 16:37:51 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dawn Jacobson <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Re hiding clothes in building Re: Extant
  clothing, was Re:Avera
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At 11:29 AM 7/21/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>We've found a variety of things in our walls and our friends walls 
>(victorian flats in San Francisco)
>as we've been doing remodels.  The contractor a friend of mine hired to 
>put in a wall in her flat
>came to her house that day with copies of all the day's papers, that he 
>put in the wall that day.
>He saw it as leaving something to interest the person that would take the 
>wall down later,
>and a little sign of himself and the current times, rather like a time 
>capsule.  We found newspapers in our walls,
>too  - just pages, not enough to be insulating at all.

Frequently that was/is done to give the next person a definite idea of when 
that particular bit of remodelling was done. We were able to date the 
previous remodel of our kitchen to 1981 by this process, as no permits were 
required for the work done. We've continued the process by sealing a 
complete description of the work done on our upstairs porch (including the 
date and costs of the materials) in a clean dry wine bottle, then placing 
it between the joists before the flooring was finished.

Another item occasionally found are sets of the original building plans. 
These are a treasure to the architectural historian, as most residential 
architecture did not require plans be kept by the local building 
department, and may be the only way of definitively establishing the age, 
designer, and builder of a house. My across-the-street neighbor found a 
set, on drafting linen carefully wrapped in oil cloth, stuffed into a space 
above the ceiling of his living room a few years ago. With the plans, we 
were able to establish the actual building date as 1925.

Dawn

Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are the costumes we wear every day. 
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Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 19:46:31 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Re hiding clothes in building Re: Extant  clothing,
 was Re:Avera
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On Mon, 21 Jul 2003, Dawn Jacobson wrote:

> Another item occasionally found are sets of the original building plans. 
> These are a treasure to the architectural historian, as most residential 
> architecture did not require plans be kept by the local building 
> department, and may be the only way of definitively establishing the age, 
> designer, and builder of a house.

Wow, like putting a label in a custom-made suit :-)

--Robin

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On Friday 18 July 2003 08:21 am, Sue Clemenger wrote:
> Just testing.
> Again.
> --sue

Try checking the status of your h-costume subscription on the website.  I did 
when I stopped getting messages, and found that I had had a bounced message 
and was kind of on probationary status but that I would again receive 
messages if no more bounces occurred within a specified period.  Now, I'm 
getting messages again.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
 
"You live and learn, or you don't live long."
 Robert Heinlein

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On Friday 18 July 2003 11:55 am, jessica stier wrote:
> I have to jump on the bandwagon and sing the praises of Men's Warehouse.
[text cut here]

> The sales people are so fantastic.  They really know their stuff!  And they
> understand the customer who is on a budget.  They also understand my
> husbands mentality of not knowing specifically what he wants but he knows
> what he doesn't like.  Very particular about what he doesn't like to wear,
> with no real details of what he actually likes to wear.
>
> I think they are national.  At least they are all over the West Coast. 

They exist in Pennsylvania, too.   

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
 
"You live and learn, or you don't live long."
 Robert Heinlein

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On Monday 21 July 2003 08:30 am, Gail & Scott Finke wrote:
> Does the list shut down over the weekends now? I only seem to get messages
> on the weekdays.


No, I usually get messages on weekends too--though I typically get more during 
the week.

-- 
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"You live and learn, or you don't live long."
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I dunno, Gail. Like a lot of you, it seems, I didn't hear anything from
this list all weekend, but then I've been having severe problems with my
ISP, so I'd chalked it up to that.
Part of it, too, may be that some of the folk on the list who are also
SCA member may be getting ready for Pennsic....
Me? I'm just hunting down parts of a pirate costume (arrrr), having now
seen _Pirates_ twice.  Also hunting down beads for a Jack Sparrow hairdo
;o)
--sue

Gail & Scott Finke wrote:
> 
> Does the list shut down over the weekends now? I only seem to get messages
> on the weekdays.
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] weekends down?
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 20:53:13 -0400
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On Monday 21 July 2003 08:45 pm, Sue Clemenger wrote:
> I dunno, Gail. Like a lot of you, it seems, I didn't hear anything from
> this list all weekend, but then I've been having severe problems with my
> ISP, so I'd chalked it up to that.

I have not been having problems with my ISP, though, and I usually get some 
h-costume mail over the weekend.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
 
"You live and learn, or you don't live long."
 Robert Heinlein

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Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 12:14:11 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Pensic/SCA Fighter Shirts HELP?!
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At 9:52 AM -0700 7/18/03, Dawn Jacobson wrote:
>At 03:26 PM 7/17/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>>Lil Sorepaws <sorepaws@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>>With Pensic right around the corner I find myself somehow volunteered to
>>Oy. :)
>>
>>I would base the shirt/tunic on the St. Louis tunic, etc.  The only 
>>"modern" nod that I'd completely avoid is the tendency to cut the 
>>shirt all in one gingerbread man piece - there's an enormous amount 
>>of stress at the armpits, which is the last place a fighter wants 
>>it.
>>
>>Instead, a moderately close-fitting sleeve with a gusset will give 
>>the person lots of room to move.
>>
>>You could leave the center front and back gores out if you wanted 
>>to save time at the cost of wasting some fabric.
>>
>>Personally, I wouldn't bother with french seams, etc - the fabric 
>>is going to take much more wear on the surface than stress on the 
>>seams.
>>
>>Constance
>
>Uh, if the information in MOL "Textiles" is correct, there are 
>shoulder seams, as the sleeves are cut separate from the  body of 
>the shirt (it also means you can cut it out of narrow--24-28 inch 
>wide--fabric). The pattern layout is ingenious--I've used it and had 
>only 1 tiny scrap (from the hole for the head to go through) when 
>I've finished.

The cutting layout for the St. Louis tunic in the MOL book (which is 
taken directly from Burnham's "Cut My Cote") is, indeed, ingenious -- 
but in my opinion and that of several other people who have taking a 
hard look at the original garment, it's inaccurate.  The differences 
are mostly a matter of degree rather than concept (e.g., the body 
panel is actually significantly tapered, not rectangular; the sleeves 
have a more drastic taper than Burnham's version).  But one 
consequence is that the elegant cutting layout just doesn't work with 
what appear to be the actual dimensions of the garment.

In defense of pragmatics: Burnham's cutting layout is not merely 
elegant but produces a very wearable garment -- simply not one that 
entirely matches the original as closely as it might.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul 21 21:11:15 2003
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From: "Kendra Van Cleave" <kendra@tweedlebop.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1830's undergarments
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 18:10:34 -0700
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Hi Sarah!  Welcome to the list.

> First, I have a question about the corsets/stays of the period. So far the
> original support garments I've seen are corded and not boned. Would all
30's
> corsets and stays have been corded? Or could boning be added? I've made up
a
> muslin of my pattern and cording doesn't seem to support me very well.
> Perhaps this is how it should be, but compared to my 1860's corset,
there's
> a LOT of wrinkles and pulls. Also, in pictures of the orignals I've seen,
> all corsets/stays seem to have a shoulder straps--in some cases being tied
> to the stay at front in back, in others being cut with the stay.

My understanding is that they would be corded, but also with a wooden busk
down the front, which gives a lot of support.  I haven't actually made an
1830's corset, so I'm not too sure how that works out in practice!

Here's an 1820s-40s corset (scroll down to the second item) -- if you click
on the "enlarge" link, you'll see that it has a wide (2-3") pocket in the
center front for a busk.
http://www.chs.org/textiles/found_acc.htm

There's another 1830s corset on this page (scroll down), again w/ cording a
busk:
http://dept.kent.edu/museum/costume/bonc/4subjectsearch/lingerie/lingerie19t
h/lingerie19.html

And finally, same deal, c. 1834-35:
http://images.vam.ac.uk/images/photo/sch/20000525/high/mb47-037.jpg

> I've heard a lot about the layers of petticoats worn during the 30's to
give
> the desired fullness to the skirts. Would a corded petticoat have been
worn
> to give more body to the skirts, or would the ladies then just have piled
on
> the layers of petticoats? Would petticoats have been flounced, or
stiffened
> at the hem?

Ah, the joy of 1830's petticoats!  I did a ton of research on this when I
made my 1836-7 dress.  The short answer is that yes, they used corded
petticoats, flounced petticoats, and starch.  I compiled my research and
practical how-to advice onto this page:
http://demode.tweedlebop.com/crinoline.html

There's a picture of an 1830's corded petticoat in the new Kyoto Costume
Institute book _Fashion_.

> What would a chemise have been like? Gussets under the arm, or a bias-cut
> seam with no gussets? Or were both methods used?

>From what I understand, chemises were still based on the basic 18th century
(and previous) shapes of rectangles and triangles.  I'm sure you can find
patterns for these lots of places, but there's one that I know of off-hand
in the 18th c. costume book _Costume Close-Up_.

> What materials would be proper to make these garments up in? I'm thinking
> cotton or linen, but if there are any other possible materials, please let
> me know!

I know that both of those were used for undies in this period, but I'm not
positive if certain things were used for specific garments.  I'd recommend
looking at Cunnington's _History of Underclothes_ if you're worried about
getting it spot on.

Let me know if you have other questions about this period -- Heather
(another list-ee) and myself will be teaching a class on this period at
Costume College in a few weeks, and I'd be happy to go through my notes.

- Kendra
http://demode.tweedlebop.com

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Asian women with larger children are married to Asian men. Many immigrants
to the US who are physically smaller, regardless of their country of origin,
have children who are physically larger. It is due to diet, at least in
part. While American diets are on the whole pretty poor, they are poor
because people eat lots of the wrong thing, not because they don't have
enough to eat. 

Gail Finke


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From: annora <lisleong@k12.hi.us>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] weekends down?
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> I dunno, Gail. Like a lot of you, it seems, I didn't hear anything from
> this list all weekend, but then I've been having severe problems with my
> ISP, so I'd chalked it up to that.
> >
> > Does the list shut down over the weekends now? I only seem to get messages
> > on the weekdays.

	I didn't get anything all weekend either but on Monday a whole
bunch came through that were dated for Friday, Saturday, and Sunday.

annora


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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: KNOT
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 22:40:55 -0400
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Gail,

LOL!!!!!!!  The main had to be on drugs!!!!!!  Did you see the duct tape
ties they are selling.  They would go over big a home show for men!

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
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Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 20:26:58 -0700
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Subject: [h-cost] 
	Kid's "period" clothes site...can't remember where I saw this-help?
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Hi all, I remember someone had a link to a site that had an article on kid's
period clothes.  Not sure what period, but I remember her mentioning
Breughel pictures...so somewhere between 1525 and 1600ish.  She discussed
the 'lappets' or hanging tabs which some children had on the shoulders.  Can
anyone remember what site I am talking about??
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul 21 23:34:48 2003
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]  Kid's "period" clothes site...can't remember where I
	saw this-help?
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On Monday 21 July 2003 11:26 pm, Saragrace T. Knauf wrote:
> Hi all, I remember someone had a link to a site that had an article on
> kid's period clothes.  Not sure what period, but I remember her mentioning
> Breughel pictures...so somewhere between 1525 and 1600ish.  She discussed
> the 'lappets' or hanging tabs which some children had on the shoulders. 
> Can anyone remember what site I am talking about??

Yes.  Her site is the featured monthly site on Drea's Elizabethan Costuming 
Page this month.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
 
"You live and learn, or you don't live long."
 Robert Heinlein

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul 22 00:44:02 2003
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Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 22:26:37 -0600
From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kid's "period" clothes site...can't remember where I saw
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Status: RO

There's an article about it on Drea's website (or linked from
there)....lesseee....(clickety-click keyboard version of a rustle,
rustle in one's bookcase).
Here it is:
http://ourworld.cs.com/_ht_a/constancefairfax/Breughel.htm
And her website's Drea's monthly feature:
http://home.uchicago.edu/~atterlep/costuming/costumingindex.htm
Yumm....nice stuff! I'd feel the urge to make something new if I weren't
so darned hot.  <<grump>>  The not-so-joke being that we're apt to say,
"Well, at least it's a *dry* heat!"
--sue

"Saragrace T. Knauf" wrote:
> 
> Hi all, I remember someone had a link to a site that had an article on kid's
> period clothes.  Not sure what period, but I remember her mentioning
> Breughel pictures...so somewhere between 1525 and 1600ish.  She discussed
> the 'lappets' or hanging tabs which some children had on the shoulders.  Can
> anyone remember what site I am talking about??
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul 22 00:52:38 2003
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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Kid's "period" clothes site...can't remember where I saw
	this-help?
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 21:49:15 -0700
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Status: RO

Yes, Yes, this is the one.  Thank you Sue and Catherine! 

Where are you Sue?  I am in Arizona.  It is hot, but starting to get muggy
because of the monsoon.  

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sue Clemenger
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2003 9:27 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kid's "period" clothes site...can't remember where I
saw this-help?


There's an article about it on Drea's website (or linked from
there)....lesseee....(clickety-click keyboard version of a rustle, rustle in
one's bookcase). Here it is:
http://ourworld.cs.com/_ht_a/constancefairfax/Breughel.htm
And her website's Drea's monthly feature:
http://home.uchicago.edu/~atterlep/costuming/costumingindex.htm
Yumm....nice stuff! I'd feel the urge to make something new if I weren't so
darned hot.  <<grump>>  The not-so-joke being that we're apt to say, "Well,
at least it's a *dry* heat!" --sue

"


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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] 
	Dang, next question: was: Kid's "period" clothes site...can't
	remember where I saw this-help?
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Status: RO

Okay, I want to write Constance about the picture of the lady laying out
laundry, but don't see a contact email.  Am I missing something, or does
anyone know how to email her?


Thanks in advance!

Sg

There's an article about it on Drea's website (or linked from
there)....lesseee....(clickety-click keyboard version of a rustle, rustle in
one's bookcase). Here it is:
http://ourworld.cs.com/_ht_a/constancefairfax/Breughel.htm
And her website's Drea's monthly feature:
http://home.uchicago.edu/~atterlep/costuming/costumingindex.htm
Yumm....nice stuff! I'd feel the urge to make something new if I weren't so
darned hot.  <<grump>>  The not-so-joke being that we're apt to say, "Well,
at least it's a *dry* heat!" --sue

"Saragrace T. Knauf" wrote:
> 
> Hi all, I remember someone had a link to a site that had an article on 
> kid's period clothes.  Not sure what period, but I remember her 
> mentioning Breughel pictures...so somewhere between 1525 and 1600ish.  
> She discussed the 'lappets' or hanging tabs which some children had on 
> the shoulders.  Can anyone remember what site I am talking about?? 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 23:12:55 -0600
From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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Subject: Re: Bad weather was [h-cost] Kid's "period" clothes site...can't 
 remember where I sawthis-help?
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Montana.  We don't get no monsoons up here. Hasn't rained in I don't
know how long.  I've been in AZ during monsoons, though...gawd, but
that's like living in a sauna--hot and wringing wet, and then instantly
dry.

Odd thing is, we had a lovely, wet spring/early summer that finally got
us out of our multi-year drought, and the extended high heats and lack
of moisture have brought us way down--fire danger is actually worse than
it was a few years ago, when we spent most of the latter half of the
summer choking on clouds of smoke.  There are all kinds of fire warnings
and restrictions on use of public lands popping into place.  Fires
everywhere (mostly caused by dry lightning, I think), but only small
ones in my immediate vicinity.  The really big ones are north of me
(closer to the Canadian border), and in the eastern half of the state.
As if I needed an excuse to want to go back to Europe, their relatively
milder weather has me really wishing I were going this summer instead of
last year!
Obligatory Costume Content: Members of my local SCA group (and I) did an
all-afternoon demo in the 100+ degree heat last Saturday, and while I
was not exactly a happy camper, I was definitely better off in my linen
camicia and linen ItalianRen than some of the others.  And I really
should be working on my new outfits for this fall, but they're wool,
darn it, and I don't even want to touch wool right now! ;-)
--sue

"Saragrace T. Knauf" wrote:
> 
> Yes, Yes, this is the one.  Thank you Sue and Catherine!
> 
> Where are you Sue?  I am in Arizona.  It is hot, but starting to get muggy
> because of the monsoon.
><snipped>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dang, next question: was: Kid's "period" clothes 
 site...can'tremember where I saw this-help?
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Hey, I don't see it either (cool laundry picture though!!). Drea must
correspond with her though, so perhaps she'll be able to help.....
--sue

"Saragrace T. Knauf" wrote:
> 
> Okay, I want to write Constance about the picture of the lady laying out
> laundry, but don't see a contact email.  Am I missing something, or does
> anyone know how to email her?
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pensic/SCA Fighter Shirts HELP?!
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While I've never made a St Louis shirt, I have (in the past) read both
the books mentioned, and Heather's article in _TI_ as well.
I'm wondering, could the "degree difference" you speak of, Heather, be a
matter of fabric width?
--sue, aimlessly musing until it cools down tonight....

Heather Rose Jones wrote:
> 
> At 9:52 AM -0700 7/18/03, Dawn Jacobson wrote:
> >At 03:26 PM 7/17/2003 -0400, you wrote:
> >>Lil Sorepaws <sorepaws@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >>
> >>>With Pensic right around the corner I find myself somehow volunteered to
> >>Oy. :)
> >>
> >>I would base the shirt/tunic on the St. Louis tunic, etc.  The only
> >>"modern" nod that I'd completely avoid is the tendency to cut the
> >>shirt all in one gingerbread man piece - there's an enormous amount
> >>of stress at the armpits, which is the last place a fighter wants
> >>it.
> >>
> >>Instead, a moderately close-fitting sleeve with a gusset will give
> >>the person lots of room to move.
> >>
> >>You could leave the center front and back gores out if you wanted
> >>to save time at the cost of wasting some fabric.
> >>
> >>Personally, I wouldn't bother with french seams, etc - the fabric
> >>is going to take much more wear on the surface than stress on the
> >>seams.
> >>
> >>Constance
> >
> >Uh, if the information in MOL "Textiles" is correct, there are
> >shoulder seams, as the sleeves are cut separate from the  body of
> >the shirt (it also means you can cut it out of narrow--24-28 inch
> >wide--fabric). The pattern layout is ingenious--I've used it and had
> >only 1 tiny scrap (from the hole for the head to go through) when
> >I've finished.
> 
> The cutting layout for the St. Louis tunic in the MOL book (which is
> taken directly from Burnham's "Cut My Cote") is, indeed, ingenious --
> but in my opinion and that of several other people who have taking a
> hard look at the original garment, it's inaccurate.  The differences
> are mostly a matter of degree rather than concept (e.g., the body
> panel is actually significantly tapered, not rectangular; the sleeves
> have a more drastic taper than Burnham's version).  But one
> consequence is that the elegant cutting layout just doesn't work with
> what appear to be the actual dimensions of the garment.
> 
> In defense of pragmatics: Burnham's cutting layout is not merely
> elegant but produces a very wearable garment -- simply not one that
> entirely matches the original as closely as it might.
> 
> Heather
> --
> *****
> Heather Rose Jones
> hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
> *****
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 09:05:42 +0100 (BST)
From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] testing....
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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> Try checking the status of your h-costume subscription on the website.  I did
> 
> when I stopped getting messages, and found that I had had a bounced message 
> and was kind of on probationary status but that I would again receive 
> messages if no more bounces occurred within a specified period.  Now, I'm 
> getting messages again.

How do you do this Cathy? I had a look but just can't find it.

Nicole

=====
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Email: nicole@kipar.org
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mens Ties
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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The origins of the cravat are earlier than described below, it goes back to the
seventeenth century.
take a look at my period gallery, you can trace the development from teh 1660s
onwards on there:
http://www.kipar.org/resources/galleries.html

Taken from my web site (chapter on male Baroque clothing):

The large lace collar, which was worn during the first half of the 17th
century, became smaller at the back and the sides after the 1650s, because the
hair was worn much longer. In the end only the strips of fabric remained, which
were folded over at the front. These strips, or front edges of the former large
collar, became longer, until the collar had developed into the cravat. These
cravats, which occurred in the 1670s side by side with the collars, were
knotted in the front and held in place by silk ribbon bows in the 1680s,
together with the silk ribbon bows at the shoulder the last remains of the
former, overflowing ribbon decoration. These last ribbons were to vanish as
well during the last decade of the 17th century. The so-called Steinkerke or
Steenkerk appeared, once again after having been seen first amongst the
military, around 1692, and this cravat fashion's characteristics are the two
long ends of the fine cravat being simply gathered in the front and very
elegantly and casually fastened by slipping the two ends through one
buttonhole.   

Last but not least take a look at some surviving examples, as found in UK
museums:

http://www.kipar.org/resources/extant-costumes.html

Nicole


> >A friend was just asking about the origin of the modern necktie.  How did
> >it develop into the current shape? (not counting the various widenings and
> >narrowings over the years)  Was there any purpose tot he current 
> >configuration,
> >to hide shirt buttons or anything like that?
> 
> It's a development of the stock and cravat, but these items weren't 
> originally worn together. The stiff stock was split at the front when the 
> shirt was fastened by buttons instead of ties, sometime in the early to mid 
> nineteenth century, and the wide cravat was reduced in size.
> In the 18th century there was a fashion for a 'solitaire,' or a thin black 
> ribbon, left from the bag wig or queue at the back, drawn forward to tie 
> over the stock in front.
> 



=====
Men Die. Cattle Die. Word-Fame Lives Forever.   ~ Old Norse Aphorism

Email: nicole@kipar.org
URL: http://www.kipar.org

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Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 09:19:18 +0100
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] weekends down?
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Annora wrote:

>>>	I didn't get anything all weekend either but on Monday a whole
bunch came through that were dated for Friday, Saturday, and Sunday.

I usually have a load of messages waiting when I log on at work on
Monday morning, but this week there were none. Thet were just starting
to come through by the afternoon, including one I posted myself on
Friday. Looks as though there was a bottleneck for some reason.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul 22 05:04:44 2003
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	Tue, 22 Jul 2003 10:02:59 BST
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 10:02:59 +0100 (BST)
From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Rachel?= <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
To: Historic Costuming <historic-costuming@yahoogroups.com>,
   H-costume list <h-costume@indra.com>, HNW <h-needlework@ansteorra.org>
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Subject: [h-cost] Bath Man's Shirt Embroidery
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Well despite getting tendonitus in my right arm I have managed to start the embroidery on the copy
of the man's shirt (1570-1580) in the museum of costume, Bath.  

So far one cuff has been completed.  
http://www.threadsofhistory.co.uk/commissions/current/bkshirt/blackwork- 
shirt.htm 

Just got the other cuff and the main body embroidery to do now!  

Rachel

=====
Threads of History
www.threadsofhistory.co.uk

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul 22 09:14:40 2003
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Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 06:03:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: KATHRYN WOLTERS <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bath Man's Shirt Embroidery
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Very nice work, Rachel!
Albra

Rachel <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
Well despite getting tendonitus in my right arm I have managed to start the embroidery on the copy
of the man's shirt (1570-1580) in the museum of costume, Bath. 

So far one cuff has been completed. 
http://www.threadsofhistory.co.uk/commissions/current/bkshirt/blackwork- 
shirt.htm 

Just got the other cuff and the main body embroidery to do now! 

Rachel

=====
Threads of History
www.threadsofhistory.co.uk

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul 22 09:16:53 2003
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Subject: [h-cost] Ostrich feathers Surplus & Clearance Sale
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Status: RO

Somebody was asking about feathers recently:  These guys are having a  
great sale - good prices, but must buy in quantity...scroll down for  
single feathers.

Begin forwarded message:

> From: Ostriches On Line <steve@ostrichesonline.com>
> Date: Tue Jul 22, 2003  4:12:20  AM US/Central
> To: allison@aristotle.net
> Subject: Surplus & Clearance Sale
> Reply-To: steve@ostrichesonline.com
>
> Surplus & Clearance Sale
> ------------------------
>
> Books - Fringe - Boas - Feathers - Ostrich Meat
> -----------------------------------------------
>
> Some great bargains are listed below - products we have made a
> special purchase on, products we have over-stocked, products we
> dyed too many of - lots of great offers.
>
> First come - first serve. You can't get these prices on the
> internet. Contact the US office at +1 708 452 7596 or fax
> at +1 708 452 7510 or use the order form below and send an email to
> orders@ostrichesonline.com
>
> Books
> -----
> Ratite encyclopaedia
> list price $99 - Clearance $25.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> Emu Oil book
> list price $36.00 Clearance $10.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> Why Emu Oil Book
> list price $24.00 Clearance $8.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> Details of books are here
> http://www.ostrich.com/cgi-bin/store/shop?cmd=reference-index
>
> Fringe
> ------
> 3 ply black ostrich fringe. Only 6 available
> list price $62.84     Clearance $25.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 3 ply burgundy ostrich fringe. Only 1 available
> list price $62.84    Clearance $25.00 ea Quantity required ____
>
> 3 ply lilac ostrich fringe. Only 2 available
> list price $62.84    Clearance $25.00 ea Quantity required ____
>
> 3 ply violet ostrich fringe. Only 1 available
> list price $62.84    Clearance $25.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 3 ply bright yellow ostrich fringe. Only 1 available
> list price $62.84    Clearance $25.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 3 ply sky blue ostrich fringe. Only 1 available
> list price $62.84    Clearance $25.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 6 ply aztec gold ostrich fringe. Only 1 available
> list price $118.25    Clearance $47.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> Details of fringes are here
> http://www.ostrich.com/cgi-bin/store/shop?cmd=ostrich-boa-index
>
> 2 ply Boas
> ----------
> 2 ply pink pure ostrich boa. Only 4 available.
> list price $55.69    Clearance $23.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 2 ply chestnut brown pure ostrich boa. Only 5 available.
> list price $55.69    Clearance $23.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 2 ply black pure ostrich boa. Only 9 available.
> list price $55.69    Clearance $23.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 2 ply sky blue pure ostrich boa. Only 1 available.
> list price $55.69    Clearance $23.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 2 ply olive pure ostrich boa. Only 6 available.
> list price $55.69    Clearance $23.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 2 ply ecru pure ostrich boa. Only 5 available.
> list price $55.69    Clearance $23.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 2 ply hot pink pure ostrich boa. Only 2 available.
> list price $55.69    Clearance $23.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 2 ply lilac pure ostrich boa. Only 1 available.
> list price $55.69    Clearance $23.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 2 ply deep orange pure ostrich boa. Only 1 available.
> list price $55.69    Clearance $23.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 2 ply burnt orange pure ostrich boa. Only 1 available.
> list price $55.69    Clearance $23.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 2 ply aztec gold pure ostrich boa. Only 1 available.
> list price $55.69    Clearance $23.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> Details of boas are here
> http://www.ostrich.com/cgi-bin/store/shop?cmd=ostrich-boa-index
>
> 4 ply Boas
> ----------
> 4 ply burnt orange pure ostrich boa. Only 1 available.
> list price $73.56    Clearance $29.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 4 ply spruce pure ostrich boa. Only 1 available.
> list price $73.56    Clearance $29.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 4 ply chestnut brown pure ostrich boa. Only 5 available.
> list price $73.56    Clearance $29.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 4 ply pink pure ostrich boa. Only 1 available.
> list price $73.56    Clearance $29.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 4 ply gun metal pure ostrich boa. Only 1 available.
> list price $73.56    Clearance $29.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 4 ply ecru pure ostrich boa. Only 2 available.
> list price $73.56    Clearance $29.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 4 ply navy blue pure ostrich boa. Only 1 available.
> list price $73.56    Clearance $29.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 4 ply hot pink pure ostrich boa. Only 1 available.
> list price $73.56    Clearance $29.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 4 ply sapphire blue pure ostrich boa. Only 1 available.
> list price $73.56    Clearance $29.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 4 ply purple pure ostrich boa. Only 1 available.
> list price $73.56    Clearance $29.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 4 ply black pure ostrich boa. Only 1 available.
> list price $73.56    Clearance $29.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 4 ply brilliant blue pure ostrich boa. Only 1 available.
> list price $73.56    Clearance $29.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 4 ply burgundy pure ostrich boa. Only 1 available.
> list price $73.56    Clearance $29.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> Details of boas are here
> http://www.ostrich.com/cgi-bin/store/shop?cmd=ostrich-boa-index
>
> 6 - 8 - 10  ply Boas
> --------------------
> 6 ply burgundy pure ostrich boa. Only 1 available.
> list price $176.34    Clearance $70.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 6 ply sky blue pure ostrich boa. Only 2 available.
> list price $176.34    Clearance $70.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 6 ply turquoise pure ostrich boa. Only 1 available.
> list price $176.34    Clearance $70.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 6 ply black pure ostrich boa. Only 3 available.
> list price $176.34    Clearance $70.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 8 ply fire red pure ostrich boa. Only 1 available.
> list price $222.50    Clearance $90.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 8 ply hot pink pure ostrich boa. Only 4 available.
> list price $222.50    Clearance $90.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 10 ply black pure ostrich boa. Only 5 available.
> list price $252.31    Clearance $99.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> Details of boas are here
> http://www.ostrich.com/cgi-bin/store/shop?cmd=ostrich-boa-index
>
> Miscellaneous Boas
> ------------------
> 2 ply ecru ostrich & marabou boa. Only 1 available.
> list price $60.64    Clearance $28.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 4 ply yellow ostrich with lurex boa. Only 1 available.
> list price $83.16    Clearance $39.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 4 ply yellow and white 2 tone ostrich boa. Only 1 available.
> list price $103.95    Clearance $49.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> Red Lightweight Marabou boa. Only 6 available.
> list price $5.54    Clearance $3.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> Red Heavyweight Marabou boa. Only 10 available.
> list price $11.78    Clearance $6.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> Nat Ginger hackle boa. Only 1 available.
> list price $83.16    Clearance $47.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> Details of boas are here
> http://www.ostrich.com/cgi-bin/store/shop?cmd=ostrich-boa-index
>
> Feathers - Male Wings
> ---------------------
> 13 - 17 inch violet. Only 90 available. Min order 45 feathers
> List price $6.57    Clearance $0.75 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 17 - 20 inch fire red. Only 360 available. Min order 60 feathers
> List price $10.40    Clearance $1.20 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 17 - 20 inch black. Only 150 available. Min order 50 feathers
> List price $10.40    Clearance $1.20 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 20 - 25 inch burgundy. Only 90 available. Min order 15 feathers
> List price $15.44    Clearance $3.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 20 - 25 inch pink. Only 30 available. Min order 15 feathers
> List price $15.44    Clearance $3.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 20 - 25 inch black. Only 90 available. Min order 15 feathers
> List price $15.44    Clearance $3.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 25 inch+ royal blue. Only 75 available. Min order 15 feathers
> List price $19.30    Clearance $3.50 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 25 inch+ pumpkin orange. Only 60 available. Min order 15 feathers
> List price $19.30    Clearance $3.50 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> Details of feathers are here
> http://www.ostrich.com/cgi-bin/store/shop?cmd=feather-index
>
> Feathers - Female Wings
> ---------------------
> 20 - 25 inch hot pink. Only 100 available. Min order 20 feathers
> List price $10.16    Clearance $2.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 20 - 25 inch bright yellow. Only 80 available. Min order 20 feathers
> List price $10.16    Clearance $2.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 20 - 25 inch sky blue. Only 80 available. Min order 20 feathers
> List price $10.16    Clearance $2.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> 20 - 25 inch aztec gold. Only 50 available. Min order 25 feathers
> List price $10.16    Clearance $2.00 ea  Quantity required ____
>
> Details of feathers are here
> http://www.ostrich.com/cgi-bin/store/shop?cmd=feather-index
>
> Feathers - Slightly defective tails
> -----------------------------------
> 12 - 18 hot pink. Min order 1/2 pd. Priced per 1/2 pd.
> List price $138.60  Clearance $25.00  Quantity required ____
>
> 12 - 18 black. Min order 1/2 pd. Priced per 1/2 pd.
> List price $138.60  Clearance $25.00  Quantity required ____
>
> 12 - 18 golden yellow. Min order 1/2 pd. Priced per 1/2 pd.
> List price $138.60  Clearance $25.00  Quantity required ____
>
> 12 - 18 orange. Min order 1/2 pd. Priced per 1/2 pd.
> List price $138.60  Clearance $25.00  Quantity required ____
>
> 12 - 18 red. Min order 1/2 pd. Priced per 1/2 pd.
> List price $138.60  Clearance $25.00  Quantity required ____
>
> 12 - 18 lime green. Min order 1/2 pd. Priced per 1/2 pd.
> List price $138.60  Clearance $25.00  Quantity required ____
>
> 12 - 18 purple. Min order 1/2 pd. Priced per 1/2 pd.
> List price $138.60  Clearance $25.00  Quantity required ____
>
> 12 - 18 turquoise. Min order 1/2 pd. Priced per 1/2 pd.
> List price $138.60  Clearance $25.00  Quantity required ____
>
> 12 - 18 yellow. Min order 1/2 pd. Priced per 1/2 pd.
> List price $138.60  Clearance $25.00  Quantity required ____
>
> 12 - 18 grass green. Min order 1/2 pd. Priced per 1/2 pd.
> List price $138.60  Clearance $25.00  Quantity required ____
>
> 12 - 18 blue. Min order 1/2 pd. Priced per 1/2 pd.
> List price $138.60  Clearance $25.00  Quantity required ____
>
> Details of feathers are here
> http://www.ostrich.com/cgi-bin/store/shop?cmd=feather-index
>
> Feathers - Slightly defective spads
> -----------------------------------
> 18 - 26 hot pink. Min order 1/2 pd. Priced per 1/2 pd.
> List price $138.60  Clearance $25.00  Quantity required ____
>
> 18 - 26 black. Min order 1/2 pd. Priced per 1/2 pd.
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>
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>
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>
> Details of feathers are here
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>
> Ostrich Meat - for continental USA orders only
> ----------------------------------------------
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>
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>
> 50 pds Ostrich Fillet
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>
> 100 pds Ostrich Fillet
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>
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>
> Shipping costs (extra) for frozen ostrich meat - up to 150 pounds
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> Details of meat are here
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> Order Form
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From: "Lisa Sinervo" <lisa-list@threadneedlest.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20030722130356.86957.qmail@web9403.mail.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bath Man's Shirt Embroidery
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 06:36:59 -0700
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>
> Rachel <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
> Well despite getting tendonitus in my right arm I have managed to start
the embroidery on the copy
> of the man's shirt (1570-1580) in the museum of costume, Bath.

Albra wrote:


> Very nice work, Rachel!

humm......I couldn't see a thing! Just a page not found message.  I'd love
to see it too.

Lisa

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul 22 09:23:14 2003
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From: "Beteena Paradise" <bkessinger@ureach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <BB41550D.9F98%gailscott@eos.net> <3F1C8916.70726619@in-tch.com>
	<200307212053.13370.cathy@thyrsus.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] weekends down?
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 09:18:41 -0400
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It definitely seems there was some sort of problem. There was not a single
message for at least 2 days and then about 60 all at once from several days
of posts. Perhaps the server was undergoing some maintenance this weekend or
something like that? The posts were not lost only saved up for a few days.

Teena

----- Original Message -----
From: "Catherine Olanich Raymond" <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2003 8:53 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] weekends down?


> On Monday 21 July 2003 08:45 pm, Sue Clemenger wrote:
> > I dunno, Gail. Like a lot of you, it seems, I didn't hear anything from
> > this list all weekend, but then I've been having severe problems with my
> > ISP, so I'd chalked it up to that.
>
> I have not been having problems with my ISP, though, and I usually get
some
> h-costume mail over the weekend.
>
> --
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>
> "You live and learn, or you don't live long."
>  Robert Heinlein
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>

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From: "Lisa Sinervo" <lisa-list@threadneedlest.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bath Man's Shirt Embroidery
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 06:40:08 -0700
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never mind, I see there are a few letters that didn't get caught up in the
hyperlink.  Beautiful!

Lisa

----- Original Message -----
From: "Lisa Sinervo" <lisa-list@threadneedlest.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2003 6:36 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bath Man's Shirt Embroidery


>
>
> >
> > Rachel <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
> > Well despite getting tendonitus in my right arm I have managed to start
> the embroidery on the copy
> > of the man's shirt (1570-1580) in the museum of costume, Bath.
>
> Albra wrote:
>
>
> > Very nice work, Rachel!
>
> humm......I couldn't see a thing! Just a page not found message.  I'd love
> to see it too.
>
> Lisa
>

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Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> lisa-list@threadneedlest.com 07/22/03 02:36pm >>>


>
> Rachel <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
> Well despite getting tendonitus in my right arm I have managed to
start
the embroidery on the copy
> of the man's shirt (1570-1580) in the museum of costume, Bath.

Albra wrote:


> Very nice work, Rachel!

>humm......I couldn't see a thing! Just a page not found message.  I'd
love
>to see it too.

Lisa - Try adding "shirt.htm" to the highlighted URL




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Still wondering _Why_?? do they put stuff in the last pour?

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Cat Devereaux
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 11:03 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Re hiding clothes in building 

> snippage

I'm not joking... this is dead seriously what goes on during the last
pour... and isn't just regional.

(couldn't resist so am falling out of lurk mode to share this bit of
future history)

-Cat-



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http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3538794066&category=7702&rd=1
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Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 23:23:10 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pensic/SCA Fighter Shirts HELP?!
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At 11:19 PM -0600 7/21/03, Sue Clemenger wrote:
>Heather Rose Jones wrote:
>>
>  > At 9:52 AM -0700 7/18/03, Dawn Jacobson wrote:



>  > >Uh, if the information in MOL "Textiles" is correct, there are
>>  >shoulder seams, as the sleeves are cut separate from the  body of
>>  >the shirt (it also means you can cut it out of narrow--24-28 inch
>>  >wide--fabric). The pattern layout is ingenious--I've used it and had
>>  >only 1 tiny scrap (from the hole for the head to go through) when
>>  >I've finished.
>>
>>  The cutting layout for the St. Louis tunic in the MOL book (which is
>>  taken directly from Burnham's "Cut My Cote") is, indeed, ingenious --
>>  but in my opinion and that of several other people who have taking a
>>  hard look at the original garment, it's inaccurate.  The differences
>>  are mostly a matter of degree rather than concept (e.g., the body
>>  panel is actually significantly tapered, not rectangular; the sleeves
>>  have a more drastic taper than Burnham's version).  But one
>>  consequence is that the elegant cutting layout just doesn't work with
>>  what appear to be the actual dimensions of the garment.
>>
>>  In defense of pragmatics: Burnham's cutting layout is not merely
>>  elegant but produces a very wearable garment -- simply not one that
>>  entirely matches the original as closely as it might.



>While I've never made a St Louis shirt, I have (in the past) read both
>the books mentioned, and Heather's article in _TI_ as well.
>I'm wondering, could the "degree difference" you speak of, Heather, be a
>matter of fabric width?
>--sue, aimlessly musing until it cools down tonight....
>

It's not an issue of width alone, although width is part of it. 
Since the body panel tapers, it can't be taken from a simple length 
of yardage leaving no waste, although you _can_ use most of the 
off-cuts as the central gores, by my measurements.  Similarly, the 
actual proportions of the sleeves (which are wider and more sharply 
tapered by my measurements than in Burnham's version) aren't 
compatible with using the off-cuts as the gores -- the resulting 
gores would be too short and too wide.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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--------- Original Message ---------

DATE: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 21:49:15
From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: 

>Yes, Yes, this is the one.  Thank you Sue and Catherine! 
>
>Where are you Sue?  I am in Arizona.  It is hot, but starting to get muggy
>because of the monsoon.

Coolness!  Where in Arizona are you?  I'm in Tempe?

-Katie



 

---
Willow: No, Ma, hear this! I'm a rebel! I'm having a rebellion!
Sheila: Willow, honey, you don't need to act out like this to prove your specialness.
Willow:  Mom, I'm not acting out. I'm a witch! I-I can make pencils float. And I can summon the four elements. Okay, two, but four soon. A-and I'm dating a musician.I worship Beelzebub. I do his biddings. Do 
you see any goats around? No, because I sacrificed them.
Sheila:I'm not listening to this.
Willow:Prince of Night, I summon you. Come fill me with your black, naughty evil.




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From: Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
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Subject: [h-cost] looking for black silk cord
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Hi,

My husband wants to recreate the black embroidered jerkin from 1590-1600 
from the book of Janet Arnolds patterns of fashion.
It is on page 24.
I am planning on giving some of the meterials for his birthday. I've 
found black silk satin, and black silk schouldn't be a problem.
But there are three thickneses of  silk cord used, 1mm, 1.5mm and 6mm 
and I don't have a clue where to get it.

Greetings,
        Deredere



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Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 19:28:07 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Semi-OT: Winter Cloak (non-costume) Interlining/padding
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Thinsulate.  I know of people who interline their period cloaks with it, 
too.

Jean

IceGirlNIN@aol.com wrote
>Well, the reason this is "semi-OT" is because the cloak I'm making isn't a
>costume- it's a mundane Vogue cloak.  I'm making it out of coat-weight 100%
>cashmere (fabric.com and a 20% coupon.  No full price for me!), and I'm 
>lining it
>in black polyester slipper or duchess satin- can't remember what it was
>called.  It's pretty and shiny.  Anyhow.  This is supposed to be my 
>daily winter
>coat, but my parents are concerned that it will not be warm enough 
>(they seem to
>be concerned about a lot of things these days.  Must be the whole
>off-to-college separation anxiety thing).  So...does anyone have an 
>idea of what I can use
>to interline or pad this cloak, so that it's warmer but not bulky?  It's
>about mid-thigh length, and I've drafted a hood onto it- it closes in 
>the front
>with snaps and has hand slits.  I'm thinking of some sort of fusible batting,
>maybe (that way I can fuse it down and then flatline-sew it to either 
>the lining
>or the cashmere itself), but I have no idea.  Ah..help!
>
>Christine
>_______________________________________________
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] looking for black silk cord
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 10:35:57 -0700
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You could make the cord if you can't find it in varying widths.  I have
great success making piping with bias strips of silk...you could do the same
for cord with all those cool mini tube turner tools.  

Sg

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Deredere Galbraith
Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2003 10:20 AM
To: H-Costume
Subject: [h-cost] looking for black silk cord


Hi,

My husband wants to recreate the black embroidered jerkin from 1590-1600 
from the book of Janet Arnolds patterns of fashion.
It is on page 24.
I am planning on giving some of the meterials for his birthday. I've 
found black silk satin, and black silk schouldn't be a problem. But there
are three thickneses of  silk cord used, 1mm, 1.5mm and 6mm 
and I don't have a clue where to get it.

Greetings,
        Deredere



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*sniffle*
Yep, that's the sound of me saying to myself, "I wish I could afford all 
these big, wonderful costume books.."

Christine
College Student.
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dawn Jacobson <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1830's undergarments
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At 06:10 PM 7/21/2003 -0700, Kendra wrote:
><snip>

> > What would a chemise have been like? Gussets under the arm, or a bias-cut
> > seam with no gussets? Or were both methods used?
>
> >From what I understand, chemises were still based on the basic 18th century
>(and previous) shapes of rectangles and triangles.  I'm sure you can find
>patterns for these lots of places, but there's one that I know of off-hand
>in the 18th c. costume book _Costume Close-Up_.
>
> > What materials would be proper to make these garments up in? I'm thinking
> > cotton or linen, but if there are any other possible materials, please let
> > me know!
>
>I know that both of those were used for undies in this period, but I'm not
>positive if certain things were used for specific garments.  I'd recommend
>looking at Cunnington's _History of Underclothes_ if you're worried about
>getting it spot on.

If you don't already have a copy, get a copy of "The Workwoman's Guide" by 
A Lady (originally published in 1838; reproduced by Opus Publications, ISBN 
0940983001). There is an entire section on how to build women's linens, 
including an entire page of layouts of shifts/chemises. As it also covers 
such diverse and sundry things as men's linens, kids' clothes, what to have 
in one's workbox, recipes, knitting, and how to do straw plaitting, it's a 
wonderful source for 1830s information.

Dawn

Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are the costumes we wear every day. 
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Thanks so much for the information, Kendra and Dawn. All of this is very
helpful to me. I'll look into the books you mentioned--I can't wait to read
them! They  sound wonderful.

All this has helped so much! Thanks for your help!

Sarah

"It is good for me that I was afflicted, that I might learn your statues."
Psalm 119:71
1warcry@mtco.com
http://web2k.mtco.com/ldepse

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> You could make the cord if you can't find it in varying widths.  I have
> great success making piping with bias strips of silk...you could do 
> the same
> for cord with all those cool mini tube turner tools.
>
> Sg
Saragrace, I recently used a friend's tube turner, and found that 
pushing the inner tube hard enough to get the fabric through the outer 
tube, I broke stitches in several places.  I was using that prepackaged 
cotton/poly bias tape.  Do you have any tips on how to make this work 
better, because it sure is a time-saver!
Allison P.

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>> Still wondering _Why_?? do they put stuff in the last pour?

How to put it politely... the construction workers have put sweat and
blood and months of labor on a project often forgoing  off time, etc.
They do this to celebrate that the hob is done, also party a bit, good
chance for a final beer with the buddies (and ah, party, maybe).  Think
of it like a show's closing night party, except these guys (and gals)
have worked together for even longer.  With the final pour, folks start
getting laid off.  They start looking for new projects and may never be
together again... at least not in this configuration.  (that's the
psychology version).  

The raw version, which most will tell you... boys (and girls) just want
to party... and the adding the underwear and fillies to the final pour
is just their punctuation.

Future historians will take the top answer... most of the workers don't
see beyond the 2nd... yet they really both mean the same thing.

-Cat-


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Sorry, I was on vacation! :)

The laundry lady detail is from a painting by Pieter's son, Jan Brughel the Elder (c. 1600-10), sometimes called "The Laundry-yard". I am trying (without success) to get a better picture, slide, or print of the painting.

At Pennsic, I'll be teaching "Clothing from the Paintings of Pieter Bruegel the Elder for Men, Women, and Children" -- if you'd like to come, I'll have several prints to look at close-up, and samples/models of various styles. If you can't come, I'd be happy to email a PDF of the handout, which currently contains more information than my web site, and more art than the spring TI article.

Constance
http://home.uchicago.edu/~atterlep/costuming/costumingindex.htm

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Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 16:28:32 -0400 (EDT)
From: Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>
To: Dawn Jacobson <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1830's undergarments
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There's a wonderful little easy to make bustle in the workwoman's guide
that I used for my 1830's dress.  Very quick, just a rectangle of cloth
with cording and drawstring waist. (plate 11, fig 30, between pages
54-55) And a wonderful day cap, fig. 28 after page 62 (plate 9).

I don't have pictures of the undergarments I wore with it on my website,
and I don't have pics of the day dress I wore as a lowell mill girl on
the web yet, but the balldress is pictured on my website here:
http://www.vintagevictorian.com/1830_dress.html

I am in love with the 1830's, I need to make a correct corset next.

Has anyone used Past Patterns corded stay #001?

Katy

On Tue, 22 Jul 2003, Dawn Jacobson wrote:

>At 06:10 PM 7/21/2003 -0700, Kendra wrote:
>><snip>
>
>> > What would a chemise have been like? Gussets under the arm, or a bias-cut
>> > seam with no gussets? Or were both methods used?
>>
>> >From what I understand, chemises were still based on the basic 18th century
>>(and previous) shapes of rectangles and triangles.  I'm sure you can find
>>patterns for these lots of places, but there's one that I know of off-hand
>>in the 18th c. costume book _Costume Close-Up_.
>>
>> > What materials would be proper to make these garments up in? I'm thinking
>> > cotton or linen, but if there are any other possible materials, please let
>> > me know!
>>
>>I know that both of those were used for undies in this period, but I'm not
>>positive if certain things were used for specific garments.  I'd recommend
>>looking at Cunnington's _History of Underclothes_ if you're worried about
>>getting it spot on.
>
>If you don't already have a copy, get a copy of "The Workwoman's Guide" by
>A Lady (originally published in 1838; reproduced by Opus Publications, ISBN
>0940983001). There is an entire section on how to build women's linens,
>including an entire page of layouts of shifts/chemises. As it also covers
>such diverse and sundry things as men's linens, kids' clothes, what to have
>in one's workbox, recipes, knitting, and how to do straw plaitting, it's a
>wonderful source for 1830s information.
>
>Dawn
>
>Dawn Jacobson
>Vallejo, CA, USA
>
>Clothes are the costumes we wear every day.
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Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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Really nice research.  And there's very little research about 
children out there - or at least there was when I was trying to dress 
my two in court so many years ago.  I'd find a sentence here or a 
portrait there, but never enough in one spot.

We used suspenders attached to the hoopskirt and hook/eye 
combinations for keepign the skirts to the bodices.  This si 
necessary because **children have no hips** and the skirts and hoops 
just drop off them with the weight of the skirts.  I thought about 
using the ties but didn't because it didn't give me the flexibility I 
needed to keep them in one costume for two years running.

Again, good job!

LynnD

>In a message dated 7/21/2003 11:23:31 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
>triade@kabelfoon.nl writes:
>
>  > http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/diary2002/page1.html
>>
>
>Very nice
>
>
>I love, on the research page, the 2 children's' outfits.
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Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 16:33:29 -0400
From: ConstanceFairfax@cs.com
To: h-costume@indra.com (Historical Costume)
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Pensic/SCA Fighter Shirts HELP?!
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I'm sorry if I wasn't clear.  I'm suggesting using the MOL cutting diagram with an attached sleeve and gores rather than something like:
    http://sca.warhawkhobbies.com/ttunic.htm
    http://www.wm.edu/SO/SCA/new/tunic.html
    http://home1.gte.net/kmvogt/ktunic1.html
    http://www.geocities.com/hansensmtn/toby/basic_tunic.htm

Constance

>At 9:52 AM -0700 7/18/03, Dawn Jacobson wrote:
>>>I would base the shirt/tunic on the St. Louis tunic, etc. The only 
>>>"modern" nod that I'd completely avoid is the tendency to cut the 
>>>shirt all in one gingerbread man piece - there's an enormous amount 
>>>of stress at the armpits, which is the last place a fighter wants 
>>>it.
>>Uh, if the information in MOL "Textiles" is correct, there are 
>>shoulder seams, as the sleeves are cut separate from the body of 
>>the shirt (it also means you can cut it out of narrow--24-28 inch 
>>wide--fabric). The pattern layout is ingenious--I've used it and had 
>>only 1 tiny scrap (from the hole for the head to go through) when 
>>I've finished.

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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tube-turning
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 14:34:09 -0700
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Status: RO

I have seen the type of tool you are speaking of and have seen them used
successfully on small things like tiny doll fingers.  

The kind I am talking about have a tube and a long wire with a pointed curl
on the end.  It takes some practice to get the size of the tube right to
ensure you can get lots of length shoved on the tube.  It also takes a
little practice to snag the end of the tube with the wire to draw it down
the center of the tube to get it to turn.  Once you get it going though the
tube provides a surface to nudge and push the fabric tube on the outside
towards the top, down the center and out...I hope that helps.

If I can provide any further explanation feel free to ask.

Sg

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Allison Pace
Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2003 12:26 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Tube-turning


> You could make the cord if you can't find it in varying widths.  I 
> have great success making piping with bias strips of silk...you could 
> do the same for cord with all those cool mini tube turner tools.
>
> Sg
Saragrace, I recently used a friend's tube turner, and found that 
pushing the inner tube hard enough to get the fabric through the outer 
tube, I broke stitches in several places.  I was using that prepackaged 
cotton/poly bias tape.  Do you have any tips on how to make this work 
better, because it sure is a time-saver!
Allison P.

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I recently heard about two different books and I was wondering if any of 
you can give me your thoughts on them.  They are:

Medieval Tailor's Assistance by Sarah Thursfield
Medieval Military Costume by Gerry Embleton

I'm waiting for them from the library while I sit and wait for my broken 
ankle to heal.  Been thinking of ways to disguise the cast....  ;) 
 Before the next SCA tourney I'm planning on attending.

Roscelin


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul 22 19:04:16 2003
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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] What do you think...
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 16:01:19 -0700
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I really enjoy the first...I am new to that period of clothing and used it
extensively to make my first garment of that period.  
http://www.saragrace.net/5A_Tunic_Tales.html

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Roscelin
Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2003 3:47 PM
To: H-Costume
Subject: [h-cost] What do you think...


I recently heard about two different books and I was wondering if any of 
you can give me your thoughts on them.  They are:

Medieval Tailor's Assistance by Sarah Thursfield
Medieval Military Costume by Gerry Embleton

I'm waiting for them from the library while I sit and wait for my broken 
ankle to heal.  Been thinking of ways to disguise the cast....  ;) 
 Before the next SCA tourney I'm planning on attending.

Roscelin


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jul 22 19:07:10 2003
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Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 16:03:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: KATHRYN WOLTERS <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What do you think...
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I have both  of those books---and have found them  both to be extremely useful.
Enjoy!
Albra

Roscelin <roscelin@pcez.com> wrote:
I recently heard about two different books and I was wondering if any of 
you can give me your thoughts on them. They are:

Medieval Tailor's Assistance by Sarah Thursfield
Medieval Military Costume by Gerry Embleton

I'm waiting for them from the library while I sit and wait for my broken 
ankle to heal. Been thinking of ways to disguise the cast.... ;) 
Before the next SCA tourney I'm planning on attending.

Roscelin


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From: "Megan M." <megan@benchite.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1830's undergarments
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Where can one get this book?  It is unavailable at Amazon, and the email
address listed on the PMA site google turns up says the domain is not in
existance.  Any clues?
-Megan

Dawn Jacobson wrote: <snip>
If you don't already have a copy, get a copy of "The Workwoman's Guide" by
A Lady (originally published in 1838; reproduced by Opus Publications, ISBN
0940983001).

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I found this website that says it has it to order, surprisingly with a
different ISBN number than my copy

ISBN # 0-9191606-4-3 (my copy has ISBN # 0-940983-00-1)

http://www.piperpublishing.com/deco.htm

Katy

On Tue, 22 Jul 2003, Megan M. wrote:

>Where can one get this book?  It is unavailable at Amazon, and the email
>address listed on the PMA site google turns up says the domain is not in
>existance.  Any clues?
>-Megan
>
>Dawn Jacobson wrote: <snip>
>If you don't already have a copy, get a copy of "The Workwoman's Guide" by
>A Lady (originally published in 1838; reproduced by Opus Publications, ISBN
>0940983001).
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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From: "Lisa Sinervo" <lisa-list@threadneedlest.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <000a01c35099$05b34940$6401a8c0@SG01>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tube-turning
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 18:09:50 -0700
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2003 2:34 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tube-turning


> I have seen the type of tool you are speaking of and have seen them used
> successfully on small things like tiny doll fingers.
>
> The kind I am talking about have a tube and a long wire with a pointed
curl
> on the end.  It takes some practice to get the size of the tube right to
> ensure you can get lots of length shoved on the tube.  It also takes a
> little practice to snag the end of the tube with the wire to draw it down
> the center of the tube to get it to turn.  Once you get it going though
the
> tube provides a surface to nudge and push the fabric tube on the outside
> towards the top, down the center and out...I hope that helps.
>
> If I can provide any further explanation feel free to ask.
>
> Sg
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Allison Pace
> Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2003 12:26 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Tube-turning
>
>
> > You could make the cord if you can't find it in varying widths.  I
> > have great success making piping with bias strips of silk...you could
> > do the same for cord with all those cool mini tube turner tools.
> >
> > Sg
> Saragrace, I recently used a friend's tube turner, and found that
> pushing the inner tube hard enough to get the fabric through the outer
> tube, I broke stitches in several places.  I was using that prepackaged
> cotton/poly bias tape.  Do you have any tips on how to make this work
> better, because it sure is a time-saver!
> Allison P.
>
> _______________________________________________
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> _______________________________________________
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I have yet to master the tube turning tool but there is another easy way to
make tubes using an overlocker.  What you do is you stitch a chain the
length of the final tube you wish to create plus another few inches or
centimeters.  Then, without cutting the chain you bring it back towards you
and place it in the middle of the folded fabric you are about to sew so when
you're finished you have your tube sewn with the chain in the middle and the
end of the chain sticking out.  Then all you do is pull the end of the chain
that is sticking out and the tube turns inside out along with it and you now
have your finished tube turned right side out.

I suppose you could also sew the tube with a piece of yarn in the middle,
making sure you don't catch it in the stitching, sew one end of the tube
closed and pull the yarn when you're done to turn the tube inside out.  That
would work too.

Lisa

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kid's "period" clothes site...can't remember where I saw
	this-help?
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 21:08:48 -0400
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On Tuesday 22 July 2003 12:49 am, Saragrace T. Knauf wrote:
> Yes, Yes, this is the one.  Thank you Sue and Catherine!

You're welcome.



> Where are you Sue?  I am in Arizona.  It is hot, but starting to get muggy
> because of the monsoon.

I don't know about Sue, but I'm in the suburbs of Philadelphia, PA, and it's 
muggy enough here, thank you very much.  :-)

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
 
"You live and learn, or you don't live long."
 Robert Heinlein

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] testing....
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 21:22:21 -0400
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On Tuesday 22 July 2003 04:05 am, N Kipar wrote:
> > Try checking the status of your h-costume subscription on the website.  I
> > did
> >
> > when I stopped getting messages, and found that I had had a bounced
> > message and was kind of on probationary status but that I would again
> > receive messages if no more bounces occurred within a specified period. 
> > Now, I'm getting messages again.
>
> How do you do this Cathy? I had a look but just can't find it.

When you first subscribe to h-costume, you get a returning email with a URL 
and your password in it.  

If you click on the URL in that email, it will take you to your subscription 
page.  

Or, at least that's the way I did it.  (I don't know how you get there if you 
didn't save your subscription email.)  :-)



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

“No man is rich enough to buy back his 
past.”  Oscar Wilde

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Lisa, this is brilliant!  Thanks!!!!
On Tuesday, July 22, 2003, at 08:03  PM, h-costume-request@indra.com 
wrote
I have yet to master the tube turning tool but there is another easy 
way to
> make tubes using an overlocker.  What you do is you stitch a chain the
> length of the final tube you wish to create plus another few inches or
> centimeters.  Then, without cutting the chain you bring it back 
> towards you
> and place it in the middle of the folded fabric you are about to sew 
> so when
> you're finished you have your tube sewn with the chain in the middle 
> and the
> end of the chain sticking out.  Then all you do is pull the end of the 
> chain
> that is sticking out and the tube turns inside out along with it and 
> you now
> have your finished tube turned right side out.

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From: "David S. Mallinak" <matchlck@erols.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Men's Victorian Patterns?
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Greetings,

I have been looking for information and patterns for Men's swimwear for 
Victorian to 1920's. I could not find much information. I was wondering if
the Costume list had any recommendation.

Your humble and obediant servant,
David S Mallinak
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From: "Lisa Sinervo" <lisa-list@threadneedlest.com>
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cc: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
Subject: [h-cost] Queen Elizabeth image sitting in a St. Catherine's Wheel
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Status: RO

I just happened to notice an image of Queen Elizabeth sitting in a drum type of farthingale on page 62 of Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd.  You can see it here at www.thrednedlestrete.com/Bulletinboard .  It's by an unknown artist from 1595 and it shows the silhouette of someone who is sitting down in a wheel farthingale.  

Now from my limited studies of the crinoline era, my belief is that women didn't sit in those hooped skirts, they perched.  This image of Elizabeth has her sitting completely in a chair, not perching at all. You can see the arms of the throne so she is truly "sitting in" the chair.  And what is shows is something round that is only a few inches wide around her waist.  Her knees are sticking right out from under a bumroll type set up.  My thought is that if it had hoops all the way down like a spanish farthingale she would more likely be perching.  Otherwise she would have to reach completly under her skirt to hoist all the hoops up which would be very ungracious to achieve this silhouette.  

Just some more thoughts to add to the wheel farthingale debate.

Lisa
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"Allison Pace" wrote

> Lisa, this is brilliant!  Thanks!!!!

you're most welcome.  It works too!



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cc: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
Subject: [h-cost] 
	Re: Queen Elizabeth image sitting in a St. Catherine's Wheel
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sorry the url is www.thrednedlestrete.com/Bulletinboard.htm

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Lisa Sinervo 
  To: h-costume@indra.com 
  Cc: Robin Netherton 
  Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2003 7:22 PM
  Subject: Queen Elizabeth image sitting in a St. Catherine's Wheel


  I just happened to notice an image of Queen Elizabeth sitting in a drum type of farthingale on page 62 of Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd.  You can see it here at www.thrednedlestrete.com/Bulletinboard .  It's by an unknown artist from 1595 and it shows the silhouette of someone who is sitting down in a wheel farthingale.  

  Now from my limited studies of the crinoline era, my belief is that women didn't sit in those hooped skirts, they perched.  This image of Elizabeth has her sitting completely in a chair, not perching at all. You can see the arms of the throne so she is truly "sitting in" the chair.  And what is shows is something round that is only a few inches wide around her waist.  Her knees are sticking right out from under a bumroll type set up.  My thought is that if it had hoops all the way down like a spanish farthingale she would more likely be perching.  Otherwise she would have to reach completly under her skirt to hoist all the hoops up which would be very ungracious to achieve this silhouette.  

  Just some more thoughts to add to the wheel farthingale debate.

  Lisa
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Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 23:06:48 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carol Kocian <aquazoo@patriot.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tube-turning
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Lisa wrote,
>I suppose you could also sew the tube with a piece of yarn in the 
>middle, making sure you don't catch it in the stitching, sew one end 
>of the tube closed and pull the yarn when you're done to turn the 
>tube inside out.  That would work too.

      I've done this, using cable cord.  It's harder than yarn, so you 
can run the presser foot up against it with little risk of stitching 
it.  Running the foot against the cable cord is also a handy way to 
keep the width of the tube even.

      -Carol
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What do you think...
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 23:08:19 -0400
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On Tuesday 22 July 2003 06:47 pm, Roscelin wrote:
> I recently heard about two different books and I was wondering if any of
> you can give me your thoughts on them.  They are:
>
> Medieval Tailor's Assistance by Sarah Thursfield
> Medieval Military Costume by Gerry Embleton

I have both of them.  

I have yet to use anything out of the Thursfield book but the advice it gives 
(and the mode of pattern design it suggests) appear sound to me.  It focuses 
on typical garments of the 1200-1500 period (mostly England/western Europe).

Embleton's book is about 15th c military campaign attire.  He is a medieval 
reenactor and the book is plentifully illustrated with marvelous full color 
photos of his reenactment group in action.  Marvelous eye candy and 
inspirational material.

Enjoy them!

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

“No man is rich enough to buy back his 
past.”  Oscar Wilde

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bath Man's Shirt Embroidery
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 23:10:23 -0400
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On Tuesday 22 July 2003 09:03 am, KATHRYN WOLTERS wrote:
> Very nice work, Rachel!
> Albra
>
> Rachel <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
> Well despite getting tendonitus in my right arm I have managed to start the
> embroidery on the copy of the man's shirt (1570-1580) in the museum of
> costume, Bath.
>
> So far one cuff has been completed.
> http://www.threadsofhistory.co.uk/commissions/current/bkshirt/blackwork-
> shirt.htm
>
> Just got the other cuff and the main body embroidery to do now!

Beautiful--and different than most blackwork I've seen.  I admire your 
patience.



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

“No man is rich enough to buy back his 
past.”  Oscar Wilde

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Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2003 23:53:37 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Lisa Sinervo <lisa-list@threadneedlest.com>
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On Tue, 22 Jul 2003, Lisa Sinervo wrote:

> I just happened to notice an image of Queen Elizabeth sitting in a
> drum type of farthingale on page 62 of Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe
> Unlock'd.  You can see it here at
> www.thrednedlestrete.com/Bulletinboard .  It's by an unknown artist
> from 1595 and it shows the silhouette of someone who is sitting down
> in a wheel farthingale.
> 
> Now from my limited studies of the crinoline era, my belief is that
> women didn't sit in those hooped skirts, they perched.  This image of
> Elizabeth has her sitting completely in a chair, not perching at all.
> You can see the arms of the throne so she is truly "sitting in" the
> chair.  And what is shows is something round that is only a few inches
> wide around her waist.  Her knees are sticking right out from under a
> bumroll type set up.  My thought is that if it had hoops all the way
> down like a spanish farthingale she would more likely be perching.  
> Otherwise she would have to reach completly under her skirt to hoist
> all the hoops up which would be very ungracious to achieve this
> silhouette.

I think someone mentions this image every time the topic comes up ;-) If
you read Arnold's text, you learn that this painting underwent sizable
restoration in the early 19th century. Essentially the entire skirt area,
including the farthingale rim and the protrusions of the knees, were among
the reworked areas. It looks very different from other versions of the
same portrait. (My guess is that the restorer was trying hard to make the
skirt look the way he assumed it would look in life if worn with a
farthingale built as proposed by Strutt.)

I know we discussed this in more detail in the past, and some of those old
posts are probably in my collection of wheel farthingale posts at
http://www.netherton.net/robin . But that's the gist of it.

--Robin

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From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Queen Elizabeth image sitting in a St. Catherine's 
 Wheel
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Boy, it sure does have a definite "edge" to it though, doesn't it?
--sue (who also thought the bulletin board complete with cork and tacks
was cute!)

Lisa Sinervo wrote:
> 
> sorry the url is www.thrednedlestrete.com/Bulletinboard.htm
> 
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: Lisa Sinervo
>   To: h-costume@indra.com
>   Cc: Robin Netherton
>   Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2003 7:22 PM
>   Subject: Queen Elizabeth image sitting in a St. Catherine's Wheel
> 
>   I just happened to notice an image of Queen Elizabeth sitting in a drum type of farthingale on page 62 of Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd.  You can see it here at www.thrednedlestrete.com/Bulletinboard .  It's by an unknown artist from 1595 and it shows the silhouette of someone who is sitting down in a wheel farthingale.
> 
>   Now from my limited studies of the crinoline era, my belief is that women didn't sit in those hooped skirts, they perched.  This image of Elizabeth has her sitting completely in a chair, not perching at all. You can see the arms of the throne so she is truly "sitting in" the chair.  And what is shows is something round that is only a few inches wide around her waist.  Her knees are sticking right out from under a bumroll type set up.  My thought is that if it had hoops all the way down like a spanish farthingale she would more likely be perching.  Otherwise she would have to reach completly under her skirt to hoist all the hoops up which would be very ungracious to achieve this silhouette.
> 
>   Just some more thoughts to add to the wheel farthingale debate.
> 
>   Lisa
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 23 04:20:36 2003
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Wired coif, who made it? Heeeeeeelp please!
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I am a bit desperate, because I am totally useless in making any kind of
patterns. Thee dimensional anythings throw me, but I suddenly realised that I
have no usable coif or hood without a wig for next weekend for the event.
I remember someone on the list made a gorgeous looking wired coif, could that
person please please contact me and give me a few pointers? I have the linen
and the millinery wire, but for the life of me I can't get a pattern to work.

Many thanks in advance!

Nicole

=====
Men Die. Cattle Die. Word-Fame Lives Forever.   ~ Old Norse Aphorism

Email: nicole@kipar.org
URL: http://www.kipar.org

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From: "Lisa Sinervo" <lisa-list@threadneedlest.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>, "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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	Re: Queen Elizabeth image sitting in a St. Catherine's Wheel
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Robin Netherton wrote:

> I think someone mentions this image every time the topic comes up ;-) If
> you read Arnold's text, you learn that this painting underwent sizable
> restoration in the early 19th century. Essentially the entire skirt area,
> including the farthingale rim and the protrusions of the knees, were among
> the reworked areas. It looks very different from other versions of the
> same portrait. (My guess is that the restorer was trying hard to make the
> skirt look the way he assumed it would look in life if worn with a
> farthingale built as proposed by Strutt.)
>
 I'd read Arnold's notes, she first states that the portrait "may" have be
worked from the Hilliard drawing.  That is the only comparison to any other
similar portrait she gives.  Then she goes on to say how it was changed from
the Hillard drawing, but it might not have even been based on that to begin
with so we don't really know if the protrusions of the knees were worked on
or not.  Anyway, without knowing just what changes the portrait went
through, it's agreed it's not worth much as evidence.  However, I wouldn't
say that Strutt's version of the farthingale was being depicted, it looks
more like a "rolle" to me.

Lisa

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Time period?
--sue

N Kipar wrote:
> 
> I am a bit desperate, because I am totally useless in making any kind of
> patterns. Thee dimensional anythings throw me, but I suddenly realised that I
> have no usable coif or hood without a wig for next weekend for the event.
> I remember someone on the list made a gorgeous looking wired coif, could that
> person please please contact me and give me a few pointers? I have the linen
> and the millinery wire, but for the life of me I can't get a pattern to work.
> 
> Many thanks in advance!
> 
> Nicole
> 
> =====
> Men Die. Cattle Die. Word-Fame Lives Forever.   ~ Old Norse Aphorism
> 
> Email: nicole@kipar.org
> URL: http://www.kipar.org
> 
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Want to chat instantly with your online friends?  Get the FREE Yahoo!
> Messenger http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com/
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 23 08:43:18 2003
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Images of Re: [h-cost] 17th c. Wired coif, who made it? Heeeeeeelp
	please!
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Ooops, I thought it was kind of obvious when it is me asking the question
*laughs!*

17th century. Those coifs were worn throught the 17th c. 

http://www.kipar.org/resources/resources-images/paintings/dutch/hooch_family_1662.jpg
(the two white ones on the ladies sitting)

http://www.kipar.org/resources/resources-images/paintings/dutch/hooch_housewife_maid_1660.jpg
(the one on the maid)

http://www.kipar.org/resources/resources-images/paintings/dutch/hooch_yard_delft_1658.jpg
(the woman standing)

http://www.kipar.org/resources/resources-images/paintings/dutch/metsu_beanfeast_1655.jpg
(What the woman sitting in the front is wearing underneath her loose hood)

http://www.kipar.org/resources/resources-images/paintings/dutch/spitze.jpg
(same coif, the only blackworked example I ever found)

Nicole



--- Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote: > Time period?
> --sue
> 
> N Kipar wrote:
> > 
> > I am a bit desperate, because I am totally useless in making any kind of
> > patterns. Thee dimensional anythings throw me, but I suddenly realised that
> I
> > have no usable coif or hood without a wig for next weekend for the event.
> > I remember someone on the list made a gorgeous looking wired coif, could
> that
> > person please please contact me and give me a few pointers? I have the
> linen
> > and the millinery wire, but for the life of me I can't get a pattern to
> work.
> > 
> > Many thanks in advance!
> > 
> > Nicole
> > 
> > =====
> > Men Die. Cattle Die. Word-Fame Lives Forever.   ~ Old Norse Aphorism
> > 
> > Email: nicole@kipar.org
> > URL: http://www.kipar.org
> > 
> > ________________________________________________________________________
> > Want to chat instantly with your online friends?  Get the FREE Yahoo!
> > Messenger http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com/
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

=====
Men Die. Cattle Die. Word-Fame Lives Forever.   ~ Old Norse Aphorism

Email: nicole@kipar.org
URL: http://www.kipar.org

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Try the book, "Splash!" by Richard Martin and Harold Koda.  
Ann Wass
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 23 09:11:28 2003
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From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: Images of Re: [h-cost] 17th c. Wired coif, who made it? 
 Heeeeeeelpplease!
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Yeah <grin>, I had kinda figured it was 17th c., given your general
preferences, but was drawing a complete blank about any sort of wired
coif past the 16th c.
Love the links, by the way, but then, I've always really like Dutch
paintings. For one, all that light and sky remind me of the sky in
Montana (there's sort of a vast emptiness about it, even when it's part
of a city scene, or has lots of landscape going on below).
--sue, off to work, and wondering if the sky in the Netherlands really
is like that.....

N Kipar wrote:
> 
> Ooops, I thought it was kind of obvious when it is me asking the question
> *laughs!*
> 
> 17th century. Those coifs were worn throught the 17th c.
> 
> http://www.kipar.org/resources/resources-images/paintings/dutch/hooch_family_1662.jpg
> (the two white ones on the ladies sitting)
> 
> http://www.kipar.org/resources/resources-images/paintings/dutch/hooch_housewife_maid_1660.jpg
> (the one on the maid)
> 
> http://www.kipar.org/resources/resources-images/paintings/dutch/hooch_yard_delft_1658.jpg
> (the woman standing)
> 
> http://www.kipar.org/resources/resources-images/paintings/dutch/metsu_beanfeast_1655.jpg
> (What the woman sitting in the front is wearing underneath her loose hood)
> 
> http://www.kipar.org/resources/resources-images/paintings/dutch/spitze.jpg
> (same coif, the only blackworked example I ever found)
> 
> Nicole
> 
> --- Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote: > Time period?
> > --sue
> >
> > N Kipar wrote:
> > >
> > > I am a bit desperate, because I am totally useless in making any kind of
> > > patterns. Thee dimensional anythings throw me, but I suddenly realised that
> > I
> > > have no usable coif or hood without a wig for next weekend for the event.
> > > I remember someone on the list made a gorgeous looking wired coif, could
> > that
> > > person please please contact me and give me a few pointers? I have the
> > linen
> > > and the millinery wire, but for the life of me I can't get a pattern to
> > work.
> > >
> > > Many thanks in advance!
> > >
> > > Nicole
> > >
> > > =====
> > > Men Die. Cattle Die. Word-Fame Lives Forever.   ~ Old Norse Aphorism
> > >
> > > Email: nicole@kipar.org
> > > URL: http://www.kipar.org
> > >
> > > ________________________________________________________________________
> > > Want to chat instantly with your online friends?  Get the FREE Yahoo!
> > > Messenger http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com/
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> =====
> Men Die. Cattle Die. Word-Fame Lives Forever.   ~ Old Norse Aphorism
> 
> Email: nicole@kipar.org
> URL: http://www.kipar.org
> 
> ________________________________________________________________________
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> Messenger http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com/
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From: "Beteena Paradise" <bkessinger@ureach.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Menswear
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 08:59:31 -0400
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2003 3:02 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Menswear


> Teena,
>
> We had to bad storms Wed. & Fri. night.  We were on the porch Wed. night
and
> saw *God*.... when it hits so close that you see the bright light at the
end
> of tunnel.
>
> We lost our downstairs air conditioner to a power surge a couple of years
> ago. Our homeowners insurance covered it then. Then the same A/C died
again
> last month.   It is still under warranty for parts but not labor.  I guess
> when I get my George Bush money next month, I can afford to get all these
> things fixed that are not covered under warranties.
>
> Penny Ladnier

Well the air conditioner is back on... thank heavens!!! We still have some
other problems, but I can deal with them better than no A/C in a two story
house in GA in July! Apparently, the lighting fried something inside the
cooling system, but luckily the guy had one at the office. This has been a
very electrical summer and he said he had about 3 inches of insurance
paperwork just for lightening. The storm that got us was pretty crazy. We
are used to having lightening storms about 2 or 3 times a week in the
summer, but they usually only last about 15-20 minutes and then they blow
over. This one started around 9 pm on Friday and didn't end until about 3 or
3:30 Saturday morning. It was hitting around our house that entire time. I
am a light sleeper and didn't get a wink of sleep. Plus the puppies were
terrified with all of the loud booming.

Obligatory costume comment #1: There isn't much you can wear to make it any
cooler when it is over 90 degrees inside your house. :)

Obligatory costume comment #2: Do not use lightening to perform burn tests
to determine fabric fiber content.

Teena

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 23 09:14:15 2003
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From: Hope Greeenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu>
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Subject: [h-cost] Exhibit: Elizabeth I at Nat'l Maritime
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FYI in case this hasn't been posted yet:
The National Maritime Museum at Greenwich has opened an exhibit on
Elizabeth I to coincide with the 400th anniversary of her death. The web
site is at:
http://www.nmm.ac.uk/site/navId/005001

There are a few pictures at the web site, including this one that is
less widely published:
http://www.nmm.ac.uk/uploads//jpg/LIZ0300.jpg

And for those of you who are ardent Elizabethan's, there's an exhibit 
catalog:
http://www.nmm.org.uk/index.cfm?SelectedProductPLUNo=54638

- Hope (hope.greenberg@uvm.edu, U of Vermont)

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From: "Lisa Sinervo" <lisa-list@threadneedlest.com>
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Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 06:32:22 -0700
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Subject: [h-cost] ebay $10 20,000 YEARS OF FASHION
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four days to go, but the price is great right now

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3539481578&category=1123


Lisa 
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From: "Beteena Paradise" <bkessinger@ureach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <111.25ca3217.2c4b806b@aol.com>
	<ZF1gXEN3CDH$IwWn@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Semi-OT: Winter Cloak (non-costume) Interlining/padding
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 09:12:28 -0400
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I know this is horribly period incorrect, but.... I have a friend that
wanted a cloak which looked beautiful and was very warm in the winter. She
made the cloak from velvet with a satin lining! I am not sure what the exact
name is, but she used something like parachute fabric made from nylon. It
blocked the wind completely and kept her nice and toasty.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jean Waddie" <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2003 2:28 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Semi-OT: Winter Cloak (non-costume)
Interlining/padding


> Thinsulate.  I know of people who interline their period cloaks with it,
> too.
>
> Jean
>
> IceGirlNIN@aol.com wrote
> >Well, the reason this is "semi-OT" is because the cloak I'm making isn't
a
> >costume- it's a mundane Vogue cloak.  I'm making it out of coat-weight
100%
> >cashmere (fabric.com and a 20% coupon.  No full price for me!), and I'm
> >lining it
> >in black polyester slipper or duchess satin- can't remember what it was
> >called.  It's pretty and shiny.  Anyhow.  This is supposed to be my
> >daily winter
> >coat, but my parents are concerned that it will not be warm enough
> >(they seem to
> >be concerned about a lot of things these days.  Must be the whole
> >off-to-college separation anxiety thing).  So...does anyone have an
> >idea of what I can use
> >to interline or pad this cloak, so that it's warmer but not bulky?  It's
> >about mid-thigh length, and I've drafted a hood onto it- it closes in
> >the front
> >with snaps and has hand slits.  I'm thinking of some sort of fusible
batting,
> >maybe (that way I can fuse it down and then flatline-sew it to either
> >the lining
> >or the cashmere itself), but I have no idea.  Ah..help!
> >
> >Christine
> >_______________________________________________
> >h-costume mailing list
> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> --
> Jean Waddie
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
>

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From: "Beteena Paradise" <bkessinger@ureach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <000a01c35099$05b34940$6401a8c0@SG01>
	<002601c350b8$2cc33120$290a77d8@pavilion>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tube-turning
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 09:19:57 -0400
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That is a great idea!

----- Original Message -----
From: "Lisa Sinervo" <lisa-list@threadneedlest.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2003 9:17 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tube-turning


> I have yet to master the tube turning tool but there is another easy way
to
> make tubes using an overlocker.  What you do is you stitch a chain the
> length of the final tube you wish to create plus another few inches or
> centimeters.  Then, without cutting the chain you bring it back towards
you
> and place it in the middle of the folded fabric you are about to sew so
when
> you're finished you have your tube sewn with the chain in the middle and
the
> end of the chain sticking out.  Then all you do is pull the end of the
chain
> that is sticking out and the tube turns inside out along with it and you
now
> have your finished tube turned right side out.
>
> I suppose you could also sew the tube with a piece of yarn in the middle,
> making sure you don't catch it in the stitching, sew one end of the tube
> closed and pull the yarn when you're done to turn the tube inside out.
That
> would work too.
>
> Lisa
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 23 09:48:16 2003
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From: "Beteena Paradise" <bkessinger@ureach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10307222347130.1946-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Queen Elizabeth image sitting in a St. Catherine's
	Wheel
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 09:40:48 -0400
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> I know we discussed this in more detail in the past, and some of those old
> posts are probably in my collection of wheel farthingale posts at
> http://www.netherton.net/robin . But that's the gist of it.
>
> --Robin

Boy was I ignorant! My vision of the wheel farthingale was the Strutt
version. I read through the archive of this topic and now I want to make
one! Does anyone have a picture of a french farthingale made from Verna and
Robin's research? I understand the description, but it would be very helpful
to see it.

Teena

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 23 09:54:14 2003
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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: Images of Re: [h-cost] 17th c. Wired coif, who made it?
	Heeeeeeelpplease!
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 06:50:57 -0700
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Nicole, I am not the person you are seeking, but if you don't get in touch
with her.   I could probably draft this, shrink it, and send a jpg to you.
You would still have to fiddle with it though because your head size and
where it falls on your cheek will be different.

One question though, do you know what the band around the back of the coif
is made from?  I can't tell from the pictures.  

Great pictures by the way.  I LOVE that last one!

Sg

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Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 09:52:02 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Queen Elizabeth image sitting in a St. Catherine's
 Wheel
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On Wed, 23 Jul 2003, Beteena Paradise wrote:

> Boy was I ignorant! My vision of the wheel farthingale was the Strutt
> version. 

I wouldn't call it ignorant at all -- that's what's in the standard
sources. No way you'd have heard the rest unless you were at our paper
presentation or running in the same circles. Though (fingers crossed!) I
am hoping to see the article in print within a year, which will be a huge
help.

> I read through the archive of this topic and now I want to make one!
> Does anyone have a picture of a french farthingale made from Verna and
> Robin's research? I understand the description, but it would be very
> helpful to see it.

On my long to-do list is "get some photos of the farthingale, and also of
someone wearing the whole outfit, and get them posted." I'll need to be
taking a bunch of photos for publication for the article, so it'll happen
then if I don't get to it earlier. Sorry I can't promise that immediately.

--Robin


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From: "Beteena Paradise" <bkessinger@ureach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10307230949070.4728-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Queen Elizabeth image sitting in a St. Catherine's
	Wheel
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Well worth the wait, Robin!

----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2003 10:52 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Queen Elizabeth image sitting in a St. Catherine's
Wheel


>
> On Wed, 23 Jul 2003, Beteena Paradise wrote:
>
> > Boy was I ignorant! My vision of the wheel farthingale was the Strutt
> > version.
>
> I wouldn't call it ignorant at all -- that's what's in the standard
> sources. No way you'd have heard the rest unless you were at our paper
> presentation or running in the same circles. Though (fingers crossed!) I
> am hoping to see the article in print within a year, which will be a huge
> help.
>
> > I read through the archive of this topic and now I want to make one!
> > Does anyone have a picture of a french farthingale made from Verna and
> > Robin's research? I understand the description, but it would be very
> > helpful to see it.
>
> On my long to-do list is "get some photos of the farthingale, and also of
> someone wearing the whole outfit, and get them posted." I'll need to be
> taking a bunch of photos for publication for the article, so it'll happen
> then if I don't get to it earlier. Sorry I can't promise that immediately.
>
> --Robin
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>

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To: h-costume@indra.com (Historical Costume)
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Tube-turning
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I use the thin spool-o-ribbon, it works well.
Constance

Allison Pace <allivox@comcast.net> wrote:

>Lisa, this is brilliant! Thanks!!!!
>On Tuesday, July 22, 2003, at 08:03 PM, h-costume-request@indra.com 
>wrote
>> make tubes using an overlocker. What you do is you stitch a chain the
>> length of the final tube you wish to create plus another few inches or
>> centimeters. Then, without cutting the chain you bring it back 

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> Obligatory costume comment #2: Do not use lightening to perform burn 
> tests to determine fabric fiber content.
> 
> Teena

Oh, that was just unfair! Now my keyboard's all wet! 8)

Hope everything straightens out for you. That must have been quite the
storm.

Arlys, still laughing

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What do you think...
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At 03:47 PM 7/22/2003 -0700, Roscelin wrote:
>I recently heard about two different books and I was wondering if any of 
>you can give me your thoughts on them.  They are:
>
>Medieval Tailor's Assistance by Sarah Thursfield
>Medieval Military Costume by Gerry Embleton
>
>I'm waiting for them from the library while I sit and wait for my broken 
>ankle to heal.  Been thinking of ways to disguise the cast....  ;) Before 
>the next SCA tourney I'm planning on attending.

This is just my own opinion (YMMV): They're both good if you're new to 
historical costuming, but if you've been doing this type of costuming for 
any length of time, they just duplicate most of the information you already 
have. This is the reason I've never bought either of them. I seem to 
remember having some questions regarding costume specifics in each one, but 
I can't remember them any more, as it was at least a year ago when I last 
looked at them.

Bummer about the ankle! Being in a cast during the summer is awful. Just 
wrap the entire thing in white bandages--that should get you by.

Dawn

Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are the costumes we wear every day. 
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>Bummer about the ankle! Being in a cast during the summer is awful.
Just 
>wrap the entire thing in white bandages--that should get you by.

Or wrap yourself and go as a "leper"- don't forget to wear a bell on you
somewhere! (maybe beg for alms? really have a good time with it!)
Just my .02 lira
Betsy

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Hi -- I'm looking for citations regarding common loom widths for 
Regency/Victorian cloth -
could anyone help me with this?

thanks!

.heather.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tube-turning
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my favorite way to do tube turning is to enclose some rattail cord 
(it's slick) or mousetail (the smaller version)
inside the tube to be turned (as if it were piping, but sew across the 
tube at one end)
leave some extra cord hanging, and then PULL the cord, and it will pull 
the seam allowance inside.
then just cut off the cord, and you have the cord left to use again 
(minus an inch)
works great.  I hate hate hate all other tube turning methods!


.heather.

(I will provide photos if this doesn't make sense...)


On Tuesday, July 22, 2003, at 12:25 PM, Allison Pace wrote:

>> You could make the cord if you can't find it in varying widths.  I 
>> have
>> great success making piping with bias strips of silk...you could do 
>> the same
>> for cord with all those cool mini tube turner tools.
>>
>> Sg
> Saragrace, I recently used a friend's tube turner, and found that 
> pushing the inner tube hard enough to get the fabric through the outer 
> tube, I broke stitches in several places.  I was using that 
> prepackaged cotton/poly bias tape.  Do you have any tips on how to 
> make this work better, because it sure is a time-saver!
> Allison P.
>
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] finished the jacket and skirt.
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Hi the list.
For those of you who would like to see, i have finally finished the late
18th century outfit:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/caraco_jacket.htm
Ben working frome early morning till late night the last days, so i am very
tired now.
I travel friday, and ill come back with lots of pictures, promise!!!

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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At 11:50 23/07/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>Hi -- I'm looking for citations regarding common loom widths for 
>Regency/Victorian cloth -
>could anyone help me with this?

Georgian cloth was about 22 inches wide.


Lynne Connolly, GSOLFOT
Award winning Historical Romance author.
The Richard and Rose books from <http://www.novelbooksinc.com/>Novelbooks Inc.
YORKSHIRE, DEVONSHIRE and now VENICE
VANESSA from <http://www.awe-struck.net/>Awe-Struck books
http://www.geocities.com/lynne_connolly2001/  

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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] finished the jacket and skirt.
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As always, absolutely breathaking work!

Drea


On Wed, 23 Jul 2003, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Hi the list.
> For those of you who would like to see, i have finally finished the late
> 18th century outfit:
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/caraco_jacket.htm
> Ben working frome early morning till late night the last days, so i am very
> tired now.
> I travel friday, and ill come back with lots of pictures, promise!!!
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tube-turning
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 13:14:26 -0700
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There are some really cool variations here on the same theme which I have
never tried.  What is the cord 'really' used for that you are refering to?
I've never heard of either??

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Heather Meadows
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2003 11:58 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tube-turning


my favorite way to do tube turning is to enclose some rattail cord 
(it's slick) or mousetail (the smaller version)
inside the tube to be turned (as if it were piping, but sew across the 
tube at one end)
leave some extra cord hanging, and then PULL the cord, and it will pull 
the seam allowance inside.
then just cut off the cord, and you have the cord left to use again 
(minus an inch)
works great.  I hate hate hate all other tube turning methods!


.heather.


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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] What do you think...
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 --- Betsy Marshall <betsy@softwareinnovation.com> wrote: > 
> 
> >Bummer about the ankle! Being in a cast during the summer is awful.
> Just 
> >wrap the entire thing in white bandages--that should get you by.
> 
> Or wrap yourself and go as a "leper"- don't forget to wear a bell on you
> somewhere! (maybe beg for alms? really have a good time with it!)
> Just my .02 lira
> Betsy

I've done that! Went to Viking York with a brace/cast and wrapped it in
bandages, using a big gnarled stick. Worked well. Some people thought it was
part of my costume.

Nicole

=====
Men Die. Cattle Die. Word-Fame Lives Forever.   ~ Old Norse Aphorism

Email: nicole@kipar.org
URL: http://www.kipar.org

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It looks fantastic!!! I love the color combination, blue and grey is one of my favorites. I also love the style of the jacket. I plan to steal from you....er....use you as inspiration unmercifully!


Karen

--- "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:

Hi the list.
For those of you who would like to see, i have finally finished the late
18th century outfit:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/caraco_jacket.htm
Ben working frome early morning till late night the last days, so i am very
tired now.
I travel friday, and ill come back with lots of pictures, promise!!!

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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Subject: RE: Images of Re: [h-cost] 17th c. Wired coif, who made it?
	Heeeeeeelpplease!
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 --- "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net> wrote: > Nicole, I am not
the person you are seeking, but if you don't get in touch
> with her.   I could probably draft this, shrink it, and send a jpg to you.
> You would still have to fiddle with it though because your head size and
> where it falls on your cheek will be different.

Oh wow Saragrace, I would really be indebted to you! I attempted to make a
pattern tonight, and even when drawing on muslin on my head, I just don't get
it! Anything at all, any tips and drawing would be helpful. Thank you.

> One question though, do you know what the band around the back of the coif
> is made from?  I can't tell from the pictures.  

I am not sure, but I assume it would be a kind of ribbon, either silk or linen
tape?

Nicole 

=====
Men Die. Cattle Die. Word-Fame Lives Forever.   ~ Old Norse Aphorism

Email: nicole@kipar.org
URL: http://www.kipar.org

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ebay $10 20,000 YEARS OF FASHION
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>four days to go, but the price is great right now
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3539481578&category=1123

The second edition has more recent stuff than the first has, and in 
addition to it, and I don't know if there's a third edition or not.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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I looked at the new pattern catalogs tonight and have two observations:

1) Some of the "historic" costumes in McCalls are also pictured made up as
wedding gowns in the bridal section. They may not be very historic, but they
look gorgeous as wedding gowns!

2) Burda now has a "historic costumes" section. Give me a break! Isn't this
a European company? That's a good excuse for messing up the American prairie
stuff, but the medieval/renaissance things are AWFUL! They aren't even
pretty but inaccurate, they're just ugly.

My store only has one Vogue catalogue and the other woman would NOT give it
up. Sigh.

Gail Finke


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 23 22:39:14 2003
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Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 19:29:46 -0700
From: Dawn Jacobson <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] loom widths
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At 11:50 AM 7/23/2003 -0700, Heather wrote:

>Hi -- I'm looking for citations regarding common loom widths for 
>Regency/Victorian cloth -
>could anyone help me with this?
>
>thanks!

Ok, let's see:

 From "English and American Textiles: 1790 - Present" by Mary Schoeser and 
Celia Rufey, p. 17, caption of a photo of 2 pages of a sample book, 
"...[John] Bradshaw was the warehouseman for Brown & Villing, in Bolton, 
near Manchester (they wove fine cotton muslins)...He wrote to his father in 
July, 1827, that his 'prospects were not very flattering,' and considered 
emigrating to the United States, where 'many keep going and many more would 
go if possible, weavers get $1 a day'. His notes also suggest that the 
Bolton 'yard' measurement was, in fact, 30 inches, making the 6/4 yard-wide 
cloth common that that area 45 inches wide." In other words, they were 
weaving 45" wide cottons.

Also from the same book, pp. 16-17, they note that James Shoolbred & 
Company in 1891 was selling figured velvets for upholstery that were 21-24 
inches wide, and a "Bokara Plush" (possibly a drapery-weight velvet) that 
was 50 inches wide. On p. 21, a caption notes that the damask design in the 
Palladian style became popular in Britain in the 1730s and "has since 
enjoyed widespread and constant use, appearing--as did many other 
damasks--in widths of both 21 and 25 inches by the early years of the 19th 
century."

On p. 26 is an example of dimity that was purchased by the Copp family in 
New York in 1800. It is 25 inches wide.

On pp. 50 and 51 are 2 examples of linen woven in the US, and it is 30-31 
inches wide; on the same page are examples of silk bourettes (a coarse 
striped silk) that are 19-21 inches wide.

 From "The Workwoman's Guide" by A Lady, published in 1938 (republished by 
Opus Publications in 1986), pp 12-13 list the following selvage widths (1 
cloth nail is 2 1/4 inches):

Calico--13 nails to 2 yards 4 nails
Fine white calico--12 nails to 1 1/2 yards
Stout calico--14 nails to 3 yards
Linen--13 1/4 to 16 nails
Lawn--13 nails and up
Cambric--3/4 yard
Muslin check--1 1/4 yard
Blue ckecks--1 to 1 1/4 yards
Prints, chintzes, and ginghams--11 nails for dress goods; 14 nails for 
apron goods
Flannel--9 to 16 nails
Stuffs--1/2 and 3/4 yard upwards
Crepe--1 yard
Satin--1/2 to 10 nails
Silks--1/2 yard wide

HTH. See you next week.

Dawn



Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are the costumes we wear every day. 
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 23 23:35:21 2003
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] some new patterns
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Gail,

Have you seen the Vogue stuff on line? They have the most current catalogue
and you can even order directly for half off.  They don't have any Vogue at
the Hancock's near me (I rarely get to Joannes), so I finally stopped
fighting it and went internet only.

The link is http://www.voguepatterns.com/index.html

angela
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design

"O, what a world of vile ill-favored faults
 looks handsome in three hundred pounds a year!..."
The Merry Wives of Windsor, III, iv - W. Shakespeare

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gail & Scott Finke" <gailscott@eos.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2003 7:26 PM
Subject: [h-cost] some new patterns


>
> I looked at the new pattern catalogs tonight and have two observations:
>
> 1) Some of the "historic" costumes in McCalls are also pictured made up as
> wedding gowns in the bridal section. They may not be very historic, but
they
> look gorgeous as wedding gowns!
>
> 2) Burda now has a "historic costumes" section. Give me a break! Isn't
this
> a European company? That's a good excuse for messing up the American
prairie
> stuff, but the medieval/renaissance things are AWFUL! They aren't even
> pretty but inaccurate, they're just ugly.
>
> My store only has one Vogue catalogue and the other woman would NOT give
it
> up. Sigh.
>
> Gail Finke
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 23:55:57 -0700
From: Dawn Jacobson <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] some new patterns
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At 10:26 PM 7/23/2003 -0400, Gail wrote:

>I looked at the new pattern catalogs tonight and have two observations:
>
>1) Some of the "historic" costumes in McCalls are also pictured made up as
>wedding gowns in the bridal section. They may not be very historic, but they
>look gorgeous as wedding gowns!
>
>2) Burda now has a "historic costumes" section. Give me a break! Isn't this
>a European company? That's a good excuse for messing up the American prairie
>stuff, but the medieval/renaissance things are AWFUL! They aren't even
>pretty but inaccurate, they're just ugly.
>
>My store only has one Vogue catalogue and the other woman would NOT give it
>up. Sigh.

Everything that Vogue offers is from 1928-1955(?), including no less than 
*three* different sets of nifty '30s and '40s hats. I just finished making 
the 1928 tea frock and slip to wear to the Sunday tea at Costume College, 
and am fairly pleased with the results. It makes up into a nice summer 
dress (I made the sleeveless version) suitable for teas, garden parties and 
other events of that type.

Dawn

Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are the costumes we wear every day. 
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] some new patterns
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 --- Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net> wrote: > 

> 2) Burda now has a "historic costumes" section. Give me a break! Isn't this
> a European company? That's a good excuse for messing up the American prairie
> stuff, but the medieval/renaissance things are AWFUL! They aren't even
> pretty but inaccurate, they're just ugly.

It's a German company, and hey, the Americans used to mess up everything
European, so guess it's payback time.
*LOL*
Something else that you should know - but I understand that you don't, who
would outside of Germany - these are Faschings/Karneval costumes. This has
NOTHING to do even remotely with anything historical, this is a pagenat type
festival that happens every years in february and teh origins go way back to
the middle ages, the Lord of Mischief ruling etc. People dress up, and that is
what it is, a dress-up opportunity, silly songs and lots to drink, and all
sorts of weird things.
I do agree though, they are gawdawful! ;-)

Nicole

=====
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Email: nicole@kipar.org
URL: http://www.kipar.org

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----- Original Message -----
From: "Gail & Scott Finke" <gailscott@eos.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2003 10:26 PM
Subject: [h-cost] some new patterns


>
> My store only has one Vogue catalogue and the other woman would NOT give
it
> up. Sigh.
>
> Gail Finke
>

And you let her live??!!??    ;-)

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Heh. :)

For all of us who think that 16c peasant (and upper class) skirts and bodices were one piece - take a look at the central picture in this illumination...

http://www.dhm.de/ausstellungen/kurzweil/juni3.htm

Ugh.  Gotta go think now. :)

Constance
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It could also be a bodice & skirt section of different colors.  I've seen
a bodice & skirt of a different color in a Peasant Feast painting..the
waistline at the back was clear to see, and there was no waistband or
overlap there.

Drea

On Thu, 24 Jul 2003 ConstanceFairfax@cs.com wrote:

> Heh. :)
>
> For all of us who think that 16c peasant (and upper class) skirts and bodices were one piece - take a look at the central picture in this illumination...
>
> http://www.dhm.de/ausstellungen/kurzweil/juni3.htm
>
> Ugh.  Gotta go think now. :)
>
> Constance
> _______________________________________________
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From: ConstanceFairfax@cs.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sometimes ya get blown out of the water...
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Sure, there's lots of examples that I could rationalize as being a two-colored single piece garment, but when I brought the picture onto my pc and zoomed in, it looks like a pointed bodice sitting on the skirt!  The point's even bending out over the bunched-up skirt. Aaaah! Make it go awaaaay!


Drea Leed <drea@nospam> wrote:

>It could also be a bodice & skirt section of different colors. I've seen
>a bodice & skirt of a different color in a Peasant Feast painting..the
>waistline at the back was clear to see, and there was no waistband or
>overlap there.
>
>Drea
>
>On Thu, 24 Jul 2003 ConstanceFairfax@cs.com wrote:
>
>> Heh. :)
>>
>> For all of us who think that 16c peasant (and upper class) skirts and bodices were one piece - take a look at the central picture in this illumination...
>>
>> http://www.dhm.de/ausstellungen/kurzweil/juni3.htm
>>
>> Ugh. Gotta go think now. :)
>>
>> Constance
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
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In a message dated 7/24/2003 11:28:19 AM Central Standard Time, 
ConstanceFairfax@cs.com writes:

> Sure, there's lots of examples that I could rationalize as being a 
> two-colored single piece garment, but when I brought the picture onto my pc and 
> zoomed in, it looks like a pointed bodice sitting on the skirt!  The point's even 
> bending out over the bunched-up skirt. Aaaah! Make it go awaaaay!
> 

Are you talking about the girl in the red and yellow? Cuz it just look like 
she's wearing a red gown lined with yellow and it's all flipped back and 
slipped into her aprong to me. Unless I'm like totally blind

-Sarra Wryght
<A HREF="www.sixteenthcenturystitchery.com">www.sixteenthcenturystitchery.com</A>  (Elizabethan Dress Diaries, etc)
Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sometimes ya get blown out of the water...
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> Heh. :)
>
> For all of us who think that 16c peasant (and upper class) skirts and
> bodices were one piece - take a look at the central picture in this
> illumination...
>
> http://www.dhm.de/ausstellungen/kurzweil/juni3.htm
>
> Ugh.  Gotta go think now. :)

Is your concern that the colors are different and therefore might be two
separate pieces?  It could be that it is still one piece but she either
replaced the skirt or bodice and decided to go with another color.

They may really be separate pieces, but I am saying that just because they
are different colors, don't *assume* they are separate.

Diana


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Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 12:45:00 -0400
From: ConstanceFairfax@cs.com
To: h-costume@indra.com (Historical Costume)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sometimes ya get blown out of the water...
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Sarra Wryght wrote
>Are you talking about the girl in the red and yellow? Cuz it just look like 
>she's wearing a red gown lined with yellow and it's all flipped back and 
>slipped into her aprong to me. 
That's the right figure, but what I'm seeing is two "skirts", one a gooseturd green color (you can only see it near her feet) and the other, yellow, is hiked up and tied with a belt or string or something - that "poof" that you can see around her hips can be seen in a lot of the Cranach paintings (although very formalized), and in many turn of the 16th century calendars.  
The thing that surprised me is the triangle of red that extends from the bodice over the skirt - that looks to me like a bodice with a point sitting over a skirt (a la renfaire bodice)...

Waaaah!  It's making me *think*
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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Sometimes ya get blown out of the water...
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Yeah!  I had been thinking that they did it to, I just couldn't find
anything where the meeting point of the skirt and top were clear enough to
tell.   Can you remember which peasant feast??

Sg

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Drea Leed
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2003 9:14 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sometimes ya get blown out of the water...


It could also be a bodice & skirt section of different colors.  I've seen a
bodice & skirt of a different color in a Peasant Feast painting..the
waistline at the back was clear to see, and there was no waistband or
overlap there.

Drea


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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Sometimes ya get blown out of the water...
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 09:51:21 -0700
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Oh Constance, that is an amazing picture!  Just think we will all be running
around in "overall" styles skirts soon!!  

Did you get a location and approximate 'real' date for the picture/  (I see
the 16th century part below).

Thank you so much, it has been stashed away in my "PossibleSkirtsFolder"
Sg

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of ConstanceFairfax@cs.com
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2003 8:59 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Sometimes ya get blown out of the water...


Heh. :)

For all of us who think that 16c peasant (and upper class) skirts and
bodices were one piece - take a look at the central picture in this
illumination...

http://www.dhm.de/ausstellungen/kurzweil/juni3.htm

Ugh.  Gotta go think now. :)

Constance
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Sometimes ya get blown out of the water...
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Are we focusing on the same skirt?  I assume you are refering to the orange
and yellow.  That is certainly a debatable skirt, but what about the one on
the woman (it is a woman right?) in the brown and grey skirt sitting in
front.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of dch@inreach.com
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2003 9:45 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sometimes ya get blown out of the water...


> Heh. :)
>
> For all of us who think that 16c peasant (and upper class) skirts and 
> bodices were one piece - take a look at the central picture in this 
> illumination...
>
> http://www.dhm.de/ausstellungen/kurzweil/juni3.htm
>
> Ugh.  Gotta go think now. :)

Is your concern that the colors are different and therefore might be two
separate pieces?  It could be that it is still one piece but she either
replaced the skirt or bodice and decided to go with another color.

They may really be separate pieces, but I am saying that just because they
are different colors, don't *assume* they are separate.

Diana


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From: "Janet Davis" <castle@erie.net>
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I'm sorry about your theory, but I'm glad you posted the site.  The January
picture has some great details (including 2 cats!)

Janet

Janet Davis
Castle Furnishings
http://www.medievalbookstore.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sometimes ya get blown out of the water...
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In a message dated 7/24/2003 11:51:18 AM Central Standard Time, 
ConstanceFairfax@cs.com writes:

> That's the right figure, but what I'm seeing is two "skirts", one a 
> gooseturd green color (you can only see it near her feet) and the other, yellow, is 
> hiked up and tied with a belt or string or something - that "poof" that you 
> can see around her hips can be seen in a lot of the Cranach paintings 
> (although very formalized), and in many turn of the 16th century calendars.  
> The thing that surprised me is the triangle of red that extends from the 
> bodice over the skirt - that looks to me like a bodice with a point sitting over 
> a skirt (a la renfaire bodice)...
> 

I still see a woman with a red gown that's lined with yellow, I can see red 
fabric bunched up with the yellow around her waist. I see a line in the front 
on the skirt that could be a seam...or a split. yellow kirtle with a green 
guard? Or a yellow kirtle over a green petticoat? Maybe it's like those magic 
pictures at the mall, I still see a red gown all bunched up...

-Sarra Wryght
<A HREF="www.sixteenthcenturystitchery.com">www.sixteenthcenturystitchery.com</A>  (Elizabethan Dress Diaries, etc)
Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
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Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 13:01:20 -0400 (EDT)
From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Sometimes ya get blown out of the water...
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It's not by aertsen or beuckelar...some other flemish guy.  I got if off
of saskia.org, evil purveyors of art slides.  hm.  Must go check now.

Drea


On Thu, 24 Jul 2003, Saragrace T. Knauf wrote:

> Yeah!  I had been thinking that they did it to, I just couldn't find
> anything where the meeting point of the skirt and top were clear enough to
> tell.   Can you remember which peasant feast??
>
> Sg
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Drea Leed
> Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2003 9:14 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sometimes ya get blown out of the water...
>
>
> It could also be a bodice & skirt section of different colors.  I've seen a
> bodice & skirt of a different color in a Peasant Feast painting..the
> waistline at the back was clear to see, and there was no waistband or
> overlap there.
>
> Drea
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Talia" <khanson@kc.rr.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Sometimes ya get blown out of the water...
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 12:12:05 -0500
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Er...doesn't look so much like a point to me, as possibly the skirt is split
in the front and what you're seeing is the red of the bodice in that split
between the rolled up "poofs" of the skirt...Then again, I know nothing
about clothing of this period.

Talia

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of ConstanceFairfax@cs.com
> Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2003 11:45 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sometimes ya get blown out of the water...
>
>
> Sarra Wryght wrote
> >Are you talking about the girl in the red and yellow? Cuz it
> just look like
> >she's wearing a red gown lined with yellow and it's all flipped back and
> >slipped into her aprong to me.
> That's the right figure, but what I'm seeing is two "skirts", one
> a gooseturd green color (you can only see it near her feet) and
> the other, yellow, is hiked up and tied with a belt or string or
> something - that "poof" that you can see around her hips can be
> seen in a lot of the Cranach paintings (although very
> formalized), and in many turn of the 16th century calendars.
> The thing that surprised me is the triangle of red that extends
> from the bodice over the skirt - that looks to me like a bodice
> with a point sitting over a skirt (a la renfaire bodice)...
>
> Waaaah!  It's making me *think*
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: Dawn Jacobson <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sometimes ya get blown out of the water...
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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--- ConstanceFairfax@cs.com wrote:
> Sarra Wryght wrote
> >Are you talking about the girl in the red and
> yellow? Cuz it just look like 
> >she's wearing a red gown lined with yellow and it's
> all flipped back and 
> >slipped into her aprong to me. 
> That's the right figure, but what I'm seeing is two
> "skirts", one a gooseturd green color (you can only
> see it near her feet) and the other, yellow, is
> hiked up and tied with a belt or string or something
> - that "poof" that you can see around her hips can
> be seen in a lot of the Cranach paintings (although
> very formalized), and in many turn of the 16th
> century calendars.  
> The thing that surprised me is the triangle of red
> that extends from the bodice over the skirt - that
> looks to me like a bodice with a point sitting over
> a skirt (a la renfaire bodice)...
> 
> Waaaah!  It's making me *think*

Bad Constance! I've got a million things to do today,
and none of them are getting done because I've been
wondering about this same thing too.

Actually, it's all Drea's fault. ;-) She mentioned a
couple of good books on Beuckelaer and Aertsen, and I
just had to order them. When they came, and I spent
some time perusing them, I noticed that in several
paintings, Joachim Beuckelaer has painted women
wearing bodices that were definitely a different color
than the skirts they were wearing. One of them in
particular, "Kitchen" (1570) is reproduced in color in
the catalog for the Beuckelaer exhibition catalog. The
woman on the left of the painting is wearing a
mustard-yellow bodice over a red kirtle. She's also
wearing an off-white apron, and it's obvious it's an
apron and not an overskirt by the way it gathered
around her waist. There are a couple of others,
including a fishwife in his "Market Scene with Ecce
Homo." So there's at least a *possibility* that some
Antwerpen women were wearing just bodices over a
kirtle.

I must admit, I'm not as shocked by that as I am by
all the women with their hair down! What is going on
with this?!? <shocked tones>

Dawn

=====
Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are just the costumes we wear every day.
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Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 14:34:20 -0400
From: ConstanceFairfax@cs.com
To: h-costume@indra.com (Historical Costume)
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Sometimes ya get blown out of the water...
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The woman in the front in the brown is wearing a white apron which is often seen in 1520-30's regional costume...I *think* it's basically two aprons pleated onto a tape that's worn over the shoulders.  If you're interested, I can show you more.


"Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net> wrote:

>Are we focusing on the same skirt? I assume you are refering to the orange
>and yellow. That is certainly a debatable skirt, but what about the one on
>the woman (it is a woman right?) in the brown and grey skirt sitting in
>front.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
>Behalf Of dch@inreach.com
>Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2003 9:45 AM
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sometimes ya get blown out of the water...
>
>
>> Heh. :)
>>
>> For all of us who think that 16c peasant (and upper class) skirts and 
>> bodices were one piece - take a look at the central picture in this 
>> illumination...
>>
>> http://www.dhm.de/ausstellungen/kurzweil/juni3.htm
>>
>> Ugh. Gotta go think now. :)
>
>Is your concern that the colors are different and therefore might be two
>separate pieces? It could be that it is still one piece but she either
>replaced the skirt or bodice and decided to go with another color.
>
>They may really be separate pieces, but I am saying that just because they
>are different colors, don't *assume* they are separate.
>
>Diana
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Victorian Chatelaines
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Hello all,

Please excuse if you receive this twice, I did post to another list as 
well...

Has anyone seen, or have, or know of any pictures of Victorian women wearing 
a chatelaine.  I really need to know where to hook one on.  Do they attach 
to the belt, or do they pin onto the chest, or pin to the waist?

I am costuming Shaw's Mrs Warren's Profession set in 1890s, and it refers to 
Vivi wearing a chatelaine with a pen and paper knife attached.

thanks,

Moira

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sometimes ya get blown out of the water...
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Hmmm, what about a yellow kirtle with red bodice/jacket over it? I can't get
a really close look, but on the uplifted arm the red seems to be coming down
under the arm a bit...a sleeve from the jacket pushed up?

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot
BRF FOF; Guilde of St. Lawrence

A room without books is like a body without a soul
---Cicero

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************


----- Original Message -----
From: <ConstanceFairfax@cs.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2003 10:59 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Sometimes ya get blown out of the water...


> Heh. :)
>
> For all of us who think that 16c peasant (and upper class) skirts and
bodices were one piece - take a look at the central picture in this
illumination...
>
> http://www.dhm.de/ausstellungen/kurzweil/juni3.htm
>
> Ugh.  Gotta go think now. :)
>
> Constance
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Kim Baird" <kbaird@cableone.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Victorian Chatelaines
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 14:00:51 -0500
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Yes to all three locations.

Kim

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of moefen@hotmail.com
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2003 1:48 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Victorian Chatelaines



Hello all,

Please excuse if you receive this twice, I did post to another list as 
well...

Has anyone seen, or have, or know of any pictures of Victorian women
wearing 
a chatelaine.  I really need to know where to hook one on.  Do they
attach 
to the belt, or do they pin onto the chest, or pin to the waist?

I am costuming Shaw's Mrs Warren's Profession set in 1890s, and it
refers to 
Vivi wearing a chatelaine with a pen and paper knife attached.

thanks,

Moira

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jul 24 16:47:10 2003
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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sometimes ya get blown out of the water...
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In Textiler Hausrat, there is a clear picture of a woman wearing a gown
with a separate, sleeveless, front-lacing bodice over it.  However, this
is much more the exception than the rule.

The picture does appear to show a bit of a point, but this could be caused
by the gatherings of the skirt pouf as well as an actual point of the
bodice. No way to tell, really. Though, every pic of a skirtless
overbodice I've seen laces up the front, which the red bodice does not.

If I was going to recreate this, I'd assemble it as:
*a white smock
*a green petticoat/underskirt
*a gown consisting of a red bodice and yellow skirt, cut  like the green
gown in the foreground, with a girdle around the waist which the yellow
*skirt is pulled out over
*a black woolen gollar

Germans also had "Apron-skirts", separate skirts worn over gowns or
kirtles.  Just to throw another wrench in, perhaps the gown is red bodice
+ green skirt, & yellow overskirt...

The German apron worn by the woman in purple looks nifty, too--I've never
seen it worn under a belt.  The breughel-type back & sleeve seams of the
purple gown look really exciting, too.

Thanks for this pic!

Drea

On Thu, 24 Jul 2003 lotsofteapots@charter.net wrote:

> Hmmm, what about a yellow kirtle with red bodice/jacket over it? I can't get
> a really close look, but on the uplifted arm the red seems to be coming down
> under the arm a bit...a sleeve from the jacket pushed up?
>
> **********************
> Rebecca Schmitt
> aka Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot
> BRF FOF; Guilde of St. Lawrence
>
> A room without books is like a body without a soul
> ---Cicero
>
> lotsofteapots@charter.net
> **********************
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <ConstanceFairfax@cs.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2003 10:59 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] Sometimes ya get blown out of the water...
>
>
> > Heh. :)
> >
> > For all of us who think that 16c peasant (and upper class) skirts and
> bodices were one piece - take a look at the central picture in this
> illumination...
> >
> > http://www.dhm.de/ausstellungen/kurzweil/juni3.htm
> >
> > Ugh.  Gotta go think now. :)
> >
> > Constance
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 22:47:34 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sometimes ya get blown out of the water...
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Similarly I know very little about this period, but it looks to me like 
a yellow gown over a white chemise and red stays or 
undergown/kirtle/thingy.  She has unlaced the bodice of the gown, pulled 
it down and rolled it around her waist to keep cool.  That's what I see.

The woman at the front left, is the white skirt not some kind of apron, 
attached by black straps and held in with a black belt?

Jean


Talia <khanson@kc.rr.com> wrote
>Er...doesn't look so much like a point to me, as possibly the skirt is split
>in the front and what you're seeing is the red of the bodice in that split
>between the rolled up "poofs" of the skirt...Then again, I know nothing
>about clothing of this period.
>
>Talia
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
>> Behalf Of ConstanceFairfax@cs.com
>> Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2003 11:45 AM
>> To: Historical Costume
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sometimes ya get blown out of the water...
>>
>>
>> Sarra Wryght wrote
>> >Are you talking about the girl in the red and yellow? Cuz it
>> just look like
>> >she's wearing a red gown lined with yellow and it's all flipped back and
>> >slipped into her aprong to me.
>> That's the right figure, but what I'm seeing is two "skirts", one
>> a gooseturd green color (you can only see it near her feet) and
>> the other, yellow, is hiked up and tied with a belt or string or
>> something - that "poof" that you can see around her hips can be
>> seen in a lot of the Cranach paintings (although very
>> formalized), and in many turn of the 16th century calendars.
>> The thing that surprised me is the triangle of red that extends
>> from the bodice over the skirt - that looks to me like a bodice
>> with a point sitting over a skirt (a la renfaire bodice)...
>>
>> Waaaah!  It's making me *think*
>> _______________________________________________
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>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
>_______________________________________________
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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On Thursday, July 24, 2003, at 09:10  AM, Heather wrote:

> my favorite way to do tube turning is to enclose some rattail cord
> (it's slick) or mousetail (the smaller version)
> inside the tube to be turned (as if it were piping, but sew across the
> tube at one end)
> leave some extra cord hanging, and then PULL the cord, and it will pull
> the seam allowance inside.

Thanks, Heather - excellent description, no photos necessary.  What a 
great solution to a PITA task!   I'm gonna hafta find a need for 
spaghetti straps soon, just so I can practice this technique.  ;-)

Allison

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sometimes ya get blown out of the water...
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My curernt theory is that it's a short-sleeved doublet/jerkin type of
thing, worn over a normal kirtle.  I base this on the faint line you can
see near the waist, suggesting some sort of ummmm I don't know what
they're called, the peplumish arrangement you see on doublets.  And then
if you look at her upper right arm, you can see that there's a bit of a
sleeve cap or short sleeve there, because it extends under her arm a bit.

We know that peasant women wore mens-style doublets (Drea has pics of
some, I think) so this seems less of a stretch to me.

K.

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Hope it works for you!  

For those that asked -- here's rattail cord.
it's used in jewelry and as trim - you can couch it on.
I use it as filler for piping, too.

http://www.jewelrysupply.com/noframes/rattail.htm
(I don't shop at this site, they just had good photos)


.heather.

> 
> On Thursday, July 24, 2003, at 09:10  AM, Heather wrote:
> 
> > my favorite way to do tube turning is to enclose some rattail cord
> > (it's slick) or mousetail (the smaller version)
> > inside the tube to be turned (as if it were piping, but sew across the
> > tube at one end)
> > leave some extra cord hanging, and then PULL the cord, and it will pull
> > the seam allowance inside.
> 
> Thanks, Heather - excellent description, no photos necessary.  What a 
> great solution to a PITA task!   I'm gonna hafta find a need for 
> spaghetti straps soon, just so I can practice this technique.  ;-)
> 
> Allison
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 

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----- Original Message -----
From: "Heather Meadows" <alice@wonderland.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2003 7:34 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 2, Issue 452


>
> http://www.jewelrysupply.com/noframes/rattail.htm
> (I don't shop at this site, they just had good photos)
>

I shop here for aiglettes (or points or whatever you want to call them!).
You can get gold or silver etched points (long or short) for $12 per 100.

Teena

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That would be cool!
--sue, not saragrace

ConstanceFairfax@cs.com wrote:
> 
> The woman in the front in the brown is wearing a white apron which is often seen in 1520-30's regional costume...I *think* it's basically two aprons pleated onto a tape that's worn over the shoulders.  If you're interested, I can show you more.
> 
> "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net> wrote:
> 
> >Are we focusing on the same skirt?  I assume you are refering to the orange
> >and yellow.  That is certainly a debatable skirt, but what about the one on
> >the woman (it is a woman right?) in the brown and grey skirt sitting in
> >front.
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> >Behalf Of dch@inreach.com
> >Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2003 9:45 AM
> >To: h-costume@indra.com
> >Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sometimes ya get blown out of the water...
> >
> >
> >> Heh. :)
> >>
> >> For all of us who think that 16c peasant (and upper class) skirts and
> >> bodices were one piece - take a look at the central picture in this
> >> illumination...
> >>
> >> http://www.dhm.de/ausstellungen/kurzweil/juni3.htm
> >>
> >> Ugh.  Gotta go think now. :)
> >
> >Is your concern that the colors are different and therefore might be two
> >separate pieces?  It could be that it is still one piece but she either
> >replaced the skirt or bodice and decided to go with another color.
> >
> >They may really be separate pieces, but I am saying that just because they
> >are different colors, don't *assume* they are separate.
> >
> >Diana
> >
> >
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Like this one? (from "October" on the same website)
http://www.dhm.de/ausstellungen/kurzweil/ikona/okt06.jpg
--sue, drooling.....(I wanna have the time to make something!!!)

Drea Leed wrote:
> 
> It could also be a bodice & skirt section of different colors.  I've seen
> a bodice & skirt of a different color in a Peasant Feast painting..the
> waistline at the back was clear to see, and there was no waistband or
> overlap there.
> 
> Drea
> 
> On Thu, 24 Jul 2003 ConstanceFairfax@cs.com wrote:
> 
> > Heh. :)
> >
> > For all of us who think that 16c peasant (and upper class) skirts and bodices were one piece - take a look at the central picture in this illumination...
> >
> > http://www.dhm.de/ausstellungen/kurzweil/juni3.htm
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Take a look at the fun they're having in May! <weg>
There's a lady (center/left, near the pool) with an orangey/salmon dress
with sleeves, and some sort of olivey-green bodice.....
http://www.dhm.de/ausstellungen/kurzweil/ikona/mai09.jpg
--sue, wondering how to make one of those hats.....

ConstanceFairfax@cs.com wrote:
> 
> Heh. :)
> 
> For all of us who think that 16c peasant (and upper class) skirts and bodices were one piece - take a look at the central picture in this illumination...
> 
> http://www.dhm.de/ausstellungen/kurzweil/juni3.htm
> 
> Ugh.  Gotta go think now. :)
> 
> Constance
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Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 18:54:17 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: standing woman (was Re: [h-cost] Sometimes ya get blown out of
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> > For all of us who think that 16c peasant (and upper class) skirts and
> > bodices were one piece - take a look at the central picture in this
> > illumination...
> >
> > http://www.dhm.de/ausstellungen/kurzweil/juni3.htm
> >
> > Ugh.  Gotta go think now. :)
>
>Is your concern that the colors are different and therefore might be two
>separate pieces?  It could be that it is still one piece but she either
>replaced the skirt or bodice and decided to go with another color.
>
>They may really be separate pieces, but I am saying that just because they
>are different colors, don't *assume* they are separate.

Who thought they were all one piece?  The English don't seem to do this, 
even if the Germans do tend to.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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>but what about the one on
>the woman (it is a woman right?) in the brown and grey skirt sitting in
>front.

I'd say that was an apron.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Nicole:

Thanks for that clarification. At least the costumes make a little more
sense. But in the American Burda catalog the section is called "historic
costumes." That's why I was so appalled!

Gail


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On Thursday 24 July 2003 08:58 pm, Sue Clemenger wrote:
> Take a look at the fun they're having in May! <weg>
> There's a lady (center/left, near the pool) with an orangey/salmon dress
> with sleeves, and some sort of olivey-green bodice.....
> http://www.dhm.de/ausstellungen/kurzweil/ikona/mai09.jpg
> --sue, wondering how to make one of those hats.....

The sleeves, to me, look like they don't match the skirt--I would guess they 
are just pin-on sleeves.  As for the bodice, from what I see it could just be 
an unusually long partlet.



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

“No man is rich enough to buy back his 
past.”  Oscar Wilde

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On Thursday 24 July 2003 05:47 pm, Jean Waddie wrote:
> Similarly I know very little about this period, but it looks to me like
> a yellow gown over a white chemise and red stays or
> undergown/kirtle/thingy.  She has unlaced the bodice of the gown, pulled
> it down and rolled it around her waist to keep cool.  That's what I see.

That sounds very plausible to me, too.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

“No man is rich enough to buy back his 
past.”  Oscar Wilde

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sometimes ya get blown out of the water...
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On Thursday 24 July 2003 04:46 pm, Drea Leed wrote:
[text cut here]

> Germans also had "Apron-skirts", separate skirts worn over gowns or
> kirtles.  Just to throw another wrench in, perhaps the gown is red bodice
> + green skirt, & yellow overskirt...

Interesting.  Thanks for the information.

That was my original guess--that the yellow garment is simply a skirt, being 
worn over a red sleeveless kirtle.  However, there's an awful lot of fabric 
rolled up at the top for the yellow garment to be only a skirt.  So I'm 
inclined to buy the "it's a yellow gown or kirtle with the bodice rolled down 
to the waist" theory.



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

“No man is rich enough to buy back his 
past.”  Oscar Wilde

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sometimes ya get blown out of the water...
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On Thursday 24 July 2003 02:22 pm, Dawn Jacobson wrote:
[text cut here]

> I must admit, I'm not as shocked by that as I am by
> all the women with their hair down! What is going on
> with this?!? <shocked tones>

Must be one heck of a party they're having.  :-)

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

“No man is rich enough to buy back his 
past.”  Oscar Wilde

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: faschings fashions
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In a message dated 7/24/03 10:27:49 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
gailscott@eos.net writes:

<< Thanks for that clarification. At least the costumes make a little more
 sense. But in the American Burda catalog the section is called "historic
 costumes." That's why I was so appalled!
  >>
That sounds more like a translation issue than anything else- possibly 
because to the non-costumer, "carnivale" costumes wouldn't sell well except around, 
say, Mardi Gras.  I remember seeing one that I thought was pretty when I was 
rummaging for cloaks...except that it had bows or something I would have 
skipped.

Christine
The Anti-Bow.
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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sometimes ya get blown out of the water...
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Yup, pretty much the same thing as that.

Must make more garb!

Drea


On Thu, 24 Jul 2003, Sue Clemenger wrote:

> Like this one? (from "October" on the same website)
> http://www.dhm.de/ausstellungen/kurzweil/ikona/okt06.jpg
> --sue, drooling.....(I wanna have the time to make something!!!)
>
> Drea Leed wrote:
> >
> > It could also be a bodice & skirt section of different colors.  I've seen
> > a bodice & skirt of a different color in a Peasant Feast painting..the
> > waistline at the back was clear to see, and there was no waistband or
> > overlap there.
> >
> > Drea
> >
> > On Thu, 24 Jul 2003 ConstanceFairfax@cs.com wrote:
> >
> > > Heh. :)
> > >
> > > For all of us who think that 16c peasant (and upper class) skirts and bodices were one piece - take a look at the central picture in this illumination...
> > >
> > > http://www.dhm.de/ausstellungen/kurzweil/juni3.htm
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Hello the list,
I can tell you that i am exhausted now. Finished the last things for the
event 4 hours before my train leaves for Stockholm.
My my there were times i was absolutely desperate, thinking i would never
make it, but now, i can finally rest.
I fear for the event for tomorrow, we have a heatwawe here, and i think it
is the same in Sweden, although it is about 1000 km. further north. Running
arround wearing a wig in the sunshine and the heat, .....puh!
But i look forwards for the event. 80 people has signed for the day, and
thinking about 80 people running arround looking wonderfull in their 18th
.century garments in a beautifull English lanscape park, would be all the
troubble worth and travel two..............
Pictures next week, promise

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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I feel your pain, Bjarne! I will be running around in full Elizabethan
court dress this weekend with heat, humidity, and thunderstorms
predicted! Yikes! Are we nuts, or what? I know that you will look
fantastic and the new dress you made will be stunning. I shall await your
pictures with breathless anticipation........of course with the full
Elizabethans and the high humidity, I may be a bit breathless
anyway.......  ;-)


Karen 

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Subject: [h-cost] Aprons: Was :Sometimes ya get blown out of the water...
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Darn, I was so hoping that was a skirt.  Yes indeedy I would like to hear
more about aprons.  I still think I will have to make one like that
someday.....I know no one in a competition would accept the logic that if
they had aprons like this they would have had skirts, but.......sure makes
sense to me.  If you mess the bottom of your gown up, you could so easily
cover it with a skirt, or if your upper bodice wore out, you might be able
to recycle it into a skirt....RATS!

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of ConstanceFairfax@cs.com
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2003 11:34 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Sometimes ya get blown out of the water...


The woman in the front in the brown is wearing a white apron which is often
seen in 1520-30's regional costume...I *think* it's basically two aprons
pleated onto a tape that's worn over the shoulders.  If you're interested, I
can show you more.




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Subject: [h-cost] LA Fabric District hints (LONG)
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Hi, All,

Not costume related except for the fact that it IS related to Costume 
College in Los Angeles starting on July 31st.  I apologize to those 
people who won't be attending for such a long message.  Please delete 
now.

It's getting very close to Costume College time and since I've been 
looking through my info I thought I'd share what I gleaned from the 
list about LA's Fashion district shopping before last year's college. 
I snipped heavily but tried to keep the writer's names whenever 
possible.

By the way, there is a website for the fashion district, 
http://www.fashiondistrict.org/Index.html  It lists stores, 
restaurants and all sorts of info that may be helpful to you.

I want to share, but I also would like to get any updates from those 
people who have been to the fabric areas of LA since last summer. 
Someone mentioned a millinery district; could you please give some 
info on that?

Cheers,
LynnD

LA garment district from the list members, advice on which stores are best?

Well, there are a lot of shops around there that will be selling 
various types of wools, brocades, linens, silk etc.  It all depends 
on who you hit and what their prices are.  I highly recommend Moon 
Fabrics for wools - they're on Wall, facing toward Maple - look for 
the green facade.  For beads, Berger's is great but they close early 
on Friday (like around 3:00PM) and are closed on Saturday and Sunday 
(Orthodox Jewish).  Berger's is on 8th St.  You can also hit Bohemian 
Crystal, which is right around the corner on Maple, btwn 8th and 9th. 
They're open on Saturday and on some things (particularly good 
rhinestones their prices are better than Berger's.

There are misc. trim/lace shops all over - my favorite is Trim City 
which is about 2 doors from Bohemian Crystal.  Also try to hit Embee 
Fabrics on the inside of the building that is on the NW corner of the 
Maple/9th intersection - George is real nice, doesn't give you heat 
over using credit cards like some of the shops, and gives a nice 
discount if you flirt.

For upholstery brocades, check out Holiday Fabrics (I think it's now 
called Wall Fabrics) - it's on Wall, just south of 9th street and is 
huge.  They also have lots of those huge upholstery trims, tassels 
and the like. They're upholstery prices are better than Levine's. 
And of course hit Michael Levine's if only to comparison shop with 
the other stores - it's on Maple, about half way between 9th and 
10th.  2 huge stores just opposite from each other (one regular, one 
upholstery).     Carolyn

*************************

Regarding the Garment District: BTW it's also a great place to pick 
up really great deals on clothes, shoes, etc., as jobber shops 
abound.  Anyway, the bargains Margo talks about are all real.  The 
farther you get away from the center of it all (around 8th and 
Maple), toward San Pedro St. the cheaper it gets and the more willing 
folks are to bargain.  They've cleaned it up since I lived there (in 
the Stone Age)  I used to have to step over drunks to get in the door 
of some establishments.  Still not the kind of neighborhood you want 
to be found in after dark.  I find that I can fly to LA, rent a car, 
shop a show, and still save money compared to what I would spend in 
Santa Fe, plus the selection is amazing.  Cheryl

*************************

I find that just wandering the stores is a good idea.  Stock varies 
widely and you never know what you will find.  The best area for 
searching IMHO is near the intersection of 9th and Maple.  There is 
also a good store on the corner of 9th and Wall (NE corner) that had 
some good looking stuff a few weeks ago when i was there.  But with 
about 40 shops in the area, BROWSE!!  You never know what you'll find.

there are no sari shops in the garment district. The best place to 
buy saris is the Little India area, which is about 16 miles SE of 
downtown in Artesia. Take your favorite freeway to where the 91 and 
605 intersect, and get on the 605 Eastbound (or if you're coming from 
points farther east, you'll be okay if you get on the 91 West bound). 
Get off the 91 at Pioneer Blvd, which is the first exit east of the 
605.  Go south about 1 mile - the sari area is on Pioneer Blvd 
between Artesia Blvd and South street.  Have fun!   Carolyn

*************************

>We bought mostly from B. Black and Sons - wools and silk/wools for 
>Dickens Faire costumes.  This time I bought flowers and ribbons from 
>Ruban et Fleur; seam bindings, polyamide threads from B. Black 
>(moves like butter through fabric for handwork!).  I didn't find any 
>great deals on silk this time, so I passed.  For some reason, 
>Bergers was mostly uninspiring and I didn't do too much damage 
>there, under $20.  One friend did though; she needed stuff for her 
>daughter's new court dress.  Unfortunately, Bohemian Crystal was 
>closed by the time we got there and we couldn't get back to it 
>another day.  It was 4:00 and the door said they were open until 
>4:30 but everything was locked up tight.  We skipped Michael Levine, 
>using the time to go to more of the smaller no-name big deals stores 
>and found a few nice bargains, mostly for non-costuming projects. 
>We went to Hollywood Fancy Feather Co.and spent a bundle.  We found 
>a store that sells to fashion schools, etc. Vecchiarelli Bros.  They 
>sell pins by the pound, had a whole wall of scissors, steamers, 
>irons, ironing boards, rulers and french curves.  We each bought a 
>roll of gridded paper for around $35, 45 inches x 100 or 200 yards. 
>The roll out of the box is about 10-12" across.  It was even cheaper 
>there than at B. Black & Sons.  LynnD

Hollywood Fancy Feather Co.
112140 Sherman Way
North hollywood
800-828-6689
They're in a warehouse area and we drove right past it before we saw 
the sign. If you go with someone, make keeping an eye out the rider's 
job.  If you go alone, just watch carefully.  They are in one of the 
first buildings in the complex, not facing the street.  Make sure to 
freeze your feathers once you get home; we found bugs in them.

Vecchiarelli Bros, Inc.		8am - 4:30 pm
"LA's largest pattern & designroom supply center"
"Specializing in shears & scissors for clothing industry"
121 W. 15th Street
LA, CA  90015
213-749-5944

B. Black & Sons
548 S Los Angeles St
Los Angeles, CA
213-624-9451

Ruban et Fleur is upstairs in a antiques mall on W? Sepulveda Blvd.

*************************

>-Poster: Icyravens@aol.com
>     Don't have much time, so this is more a survival guide than 
>store recommendations. I always park at a lot right next to Berger 
>Beads (413 E. Eighth St.) it's $7 for the whole day and easy to 
>access. -Don't- go into the bead stores first... save that for after 
>you've bought fabric. *grins* I recommend hitting -every- store... 
>every one has lots the same, but something different. Pack a lunch, 
>cause the fast food places are kind of.questionable, lots of water, 
>and good walking shoes. Stores open 9am and close -promptly- at 5pm. 
>K.

*************************

<<I always park at a lot right next to Berger Beads (413 E. Eighth 
St.) it's $7 for the whole day and easy to access.>>

I concur. The corner of 8th and Maple is sort of a central starting 
off point.  Don't spend money at Michael Levines until you exhaust 
the smaller, cheaper stores surrounding it.  Across the street from 
Michael Levines is a sort of fabric mini-mall.  Lots of great 
bargains to be had there a couple of years ago and a good selection. 
The further you go east toward San Pedro street, the cheaper fabric 
gets and the more homeless people you encounter.  If you think 
something is too expensive, often the shop owner will lower the 
price.  If you go west, you eventually run out of fabric stores and 
encounter clothing jobbers (that can be an entire additional day), 
there is also a jewelry district, fur district (yuck!), millinery 
area.             Cheryl

*************************

>Cheryldee@aol.com wrote:
>>I always park at a lot right next to Berger Beads (413 E. 
>>EighthSt.) it's$7 for the whole day and easy to access.>>
>
>Actually, if you're thinking of the huge lot that used to be across 
>the street from Berger's, it's no longer there.  They built another 
>building on it in the last year.  They do have a parking garage on 
>the roof, however (and fabric/trim shops on the ground floor).  I 
>usually park at the lot behind Levines, across the street from Home 
>Fabrics.  It's $5.00 for the day and has shade.
>>
>I think the mall you're thinking of is actually kitty corner from 
>Levines - it's on the corner of 9th and Maple.  Actually, that 
>corner has little strip malls, all of fabric stores, on every 
>corner. 
>
>>  If you think something is too expensive, often the shop owner will 
>>lower the price. 
>
>Definitely bargain.  All of them will lower the price if you 
>hesitate or hint that you want more than a couple of yards, except 
>at Levines, Home Fabrics (which has a great upholstery selection 
>including nice renaissance brocades and their upholstery's are 
>cheaper than Levine's upholstery prices), and Kashcool, which is on 
>9th halfway between Maple and Wall.  Berger's and the other bead and 
>trim shops also don't bargain much, but fabric is easy to get a 
>discount on.
>
>My favorite shops are Fred's Fabrics (north side of 9th, about 4 
>doors down from Maple, just before the alley - has silk dupioni with 
>beads already sewn to it in a lattice pattern for $20/yard), Embee 
>Fabrics in the mall on the NW corner of Maple/9th, Corner Fabrics on 
>the SW corner of 9th/Maple, Home Fabrics (check out the remnant 
>table in the back on the first floor, and in the niches all the way 
>around - I found a "remnant" of their silk brocade for $15/yard 
>upstairs in a niche with all the silks), Kashcool, Moon Fabrics on 
>Wall north of 9th, and Fiesta Fabrics.  Other shops I hit at random 
>- they all have something just a little different, or identical to 
>the guy across the street for a different price and you can use them 
>against each other. ;-)  I haven't had a chance to check out the new 
>places on the north side of 9th in the new building that used to be 
>a parking lot.
>
>Oh yeah - places to eat.
>There is an El Pollo Loco on the corner of 9th & Santee (and they 
>serve coffee, Maggie!) as well as a McDonalds on Santee closer to 
>10th.  I believe there is also now a Burger King on Santee in the 
>"clothing" areaof the district rather than the fabric section, 
>farther south of McD's. There are small shops around - the chinese 
>place on Maple north of 9th is okay, not terrific.  There is also a 
>Kosher place on 9th, between Maple and Santee (west of Maple).
>
>Bathrooms are the BIG issue in the fabric district.  Levines has a 
>public one.  Less well known is that Home Fabrics has one on the 
>second floor that they let customers use.  McDonalds also has one. 
>If El Pollo Loco has one, it's the best kept secret in the district 
>but I've never seen it, and I don't know how they can have a 
>restaurant without one.  George, at Embee Fabrics, will also let you 
>have the key to the bathroom in that building if you ask him. 
>Carolyn
*************************

>-Poster: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>
>What I remember from the Costume College raid on it last year:
>
>Embee's is great.  Most of the shops in that building are great. 
>One across from (I think) Embee's is where I got fabric for the 
>houppelande I made last year (for a fantasy thing, not authentic, 
>but...).  It was off-white with a brownish-gold (not metallic) 
>floral, brocade.  The neat thing was it was drapery fabric, 108" 
>wide.  $12 per yard!!!  10 yards of it made a huge houp for me with 
>sleeves to the floor and a pretty long train, and left enough to 
>make a smaller one for my hubby.  What seemed to be big last year 
>was chinese-style brocade.  Saw tons of it.
>
>Embee's will let you have the bathroom key for that building.  So 
>will the person in the tiny little snack shop there, if you buy 
>something.  That seems to be the key (no pun intended) to using 
>bathrooms - buying something.  El Pollo Loco will give you the key 
>if you are a customer.  So will the little Chinese food place (which 
>isn't bad - it's better than Pollo Loco, in my book).  Take water. 
>Wear sunscreen and good walking shoes.  If you can, bring a wheeled 
>tote or luggage/grocery cart (not the big ones, the ones you see 
>little old ladies walking home from the grocery with), if you expect 
>to buy a lot.  Fabric gets heavy.  A couple of sturdy canvas bags at 
>least will be helpful, as the flimsy plastic shopping ones can give 
>out.
>Hoping to go there again this year   Sandy   (Lincoln, NE)

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Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 16:39:00 -0700
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] LA Fabric District hints (LONG)
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Status: RO

Hi LynnD,

Thanks for sharing your info on the LA Fabric District.

I saved off the directions that Dawn and Julie shared, along with some of 
their hints. This is in the archives, but I thought I would repost for 
those who are interested. If not, like LynnD said, just delete this 
message. I ended up signing up for the tour myself, but I will be keeping 
this for future reference.

I look forward to next week, and meeting with people from this list. I hope 
to find a way to put a red H on my badge (that is the thing to do, yes?) 
and meet up with as many of you all as I can.

Kimiko

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

OK, last question first.

Print this e-mail out and put it in your Costume College notebook, as these 
are the best directions, from somebody used to driving down there from the 
hotel.

Take Sherman Way (the main street in front of the hotel) EAST to the 405 Fwy.

Get on the 405 going SOUTH.

When you get to the interchange of the 405 and the 101, take the 101 SOUTH 
(Los Angeles).

Take the 101 SOUTH to the interchange of the 101 and the 170, and get onto 
170 SOUTH (Los Angeles).

Take the 170 SOUTH to the interchange of the 170 and the 110 Fwy, and get 
onto the 110 SOUTH. It's the first exit of the interchange, and only 1 
lane, so be ready for it.

Once you are on the 110 Fwy, you'll want to get over to the left about 3 
lanes, or you'll immediately exit off the freeway into downtown Los 
Angeles. Take the 110 SOUTH to the 8th Street/9th Street offramp and exit.

Go straight through the first intersection (8th Street) and turn left at 
the 2nd intersection (9th Street). If you're going the right direction, 
you'll go under the freeway. Continue on 9th street about  mile.

They've now marked the Garment District with big City signs saying "Los 
Angeles Fashion District," so you'll know when you get there. The most 
central lot to park is on top of the building that is on the northwest 
corner of 9th and Wall (Shannon Fabrics is on the Corner of 9th and Wall). 
Turn left on Wall, go up about 100 feet, and you'll see the entrance to the 
parking lot (inside the building, up a ramp). The last time I was there 
(about 3 weeks ago), it was $4 to park all day.

Now to your first question: Best days.

Mondays are the best days, as everybody is open. Sunday is OK (but you'll 
miss the Tea Party). Saturday is bad, as many of the jobbers are Jewish, 
and are closed for the Sabbath.

I hope this answers your questions. If you need more information, try to 
touch bases with me at Costume College.

Dawn


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Kimiko:

Those are pretty good directions Dawn gave you, but there are a couple of 
incorrect bits that I'd like to correct. They are just confusing enough to 
someone unfamiliar to LA freeways to cause a real problem.

Go east on Sherman Way, and then onto the south 405 - so far you're fine. 
You'll transition from the 405 south to the 101 South, although you're 
actually physically going east. Don't worry about that, just go on the 101 
South. You want to look for the lanes that are marked "Los Angeles", those 
are the ones you want. You do NOT want the lanes marked "Ventura".

Now to correct the most worrisome part of the directions. Ignore the part 
about the 170. The 170 part of the 101 doesn't affect you when you head 
downtown, it only matters when you're coming back, and only then because 
you don't want to go there. Once you're on the 101, stay in the right three 
lanes. About 4 miles down the freeway will split between the 101 and the 
134. You want to stay on the 101. Do not take the 134. (Please trust me on 
this - I live right by the 170 and could drive this in my sleep. This is 
where I meant dangerous - if you're looking for a sign that says "170" 
right here, and you never see one, you're going to get awfully confused and 
that's very dangerous when you're going 65mph.)

The rest of the directions are fine, but I'd like to offer an alternate 
once you get downtown. Instead of taking the 110, stay on the 101, and go 
three more exits to Los Angeles Street. Get off and make a right onto Los 
Angeles street. Drive down Los Angeles street until you get to 9th. Make a 
left onto 9th. Maple is two short blocks away. What I do is I start looking 
for a parking space the moment I turn onto 9th, and if I don't find one, 
there are several parking lots scattered around the area. The intersection 
of 9th and Maple is the heart of the garment district.

My favorite store is Kashcool, at 418 E 9th Street, about 1/2 block east of 
Maple. They've got one of the best selections of fabrics around, their 
prices are some of the lowest, and they've got a fascinating trimming 
department tucked in the back of the store. After that, there are a couple 
of trimming stores in the 800 block of Maple that I like (can't remember 
the names) and basically you just walk from store to store looking at the 
fabrics. It becomes sensory overload after a while, there's just so MUCH 
down in the garment district!

When you head back to the hotel from the garment district, you can go one 
of two ways - either go back north on Los Angeles street until you get to 
the 101 freeway, or go one block south of 9th to Olympic and take that to 
the 110 freeway. Getting on both can be confusing. If anyone wants more 
info, please feel free to email me and I'll provide exhaustively detailed 
directions.

Julie

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Food court/places to eat:

Almost all the places to eat are on the west side of Santee, in the 900 
block. Selection includes an "International Food Court," Micky D's, and 
Subway. There's also an El Pollo Loco on the corner of 9th & Santee.

ATM:
There's an ATM in the little convenience market/liquor store on the corner 
of either 9th & Santee or 9th & Los Angeles.

BRING CASH, and be ready to haggle, especially if you're buying large 
quantities (entire rolls or bolts). Almost everybody loves to do business 
in cash, and are willing to negotiate on a price, especially if you can 
say, "...but it's only _______ down the street at _________." As per any 
business where most of the buying/selling is for wholesale reasons, you get 
a better deal if you buy gigantic quantities. The last time I was down, I 
didn't spend more than $1/yd for any of the fabrics I bought more than 10 
yards of (including undyed cotton denim for flat-lining). They also like to 
make a "lot deal" on unmeasured rolls, so if you're any good at estimating 
fabric amounts, you can pick up some good bargains.

Stores to check out (everybody has their favorites):

Berger's Beads: 8th Street, between Maple & Wall. Need I say more? 
Everything in the way of beads, gems, jewelry findings and supplies.

Button Expo: 8th/Santee(?): The best price on buttons, especially metal ones.

Linen, wool: Moon Fabrics, 842 Wall and L.A. Magic Fabrics (800 block of 
Wall). Last time I was in Moon's (4/15/03), linen was running for $2.50/yd 
for shirtweight in weird colors (anybody for periwinkle blue?), $4.50/yd 
for white in various weights. Wool was $8-$10/yd. Last year, a group of us 
was able to strike a deal at L.A. Magic for shirt  weight linen at $3/yd, 
but we bought 150 yards.

9th Street between San Pedro and Los Angeles is now filled with little 
jobbers, including Venise Fabrics (high-quality silk dupioni for $6.50 yd), 
Gift Fabrics (everything either $1/yd or $2/yd), Manny's Fabrics, Manny's 
Fabric Outlet (everything $1/yd), Fabrics Fabrics (awesome selection of 
silks and linens, almost all under $6/yd), Fred L.A. Fabrics (upholstery 
fabrics and cotton velvet--go there if you can't find it cheaper 
elsewhere); Allen Textiles (upholstery fabrics and better prices than 
Fred), and about 100 other jobbers. Home Fabrics and Michael Levine's used 
to be terrific bargains, but no more. Most of the fabrics at Home Fabrics 
are available elsewhere for less, and Michael  Levine's prices are even 
higher than JoAnn's (!).

No list of stores and their contents can be complete, as the jobbers go in 
and out of business, and their stock changes as the market changes (last 
month everybody had Hawaiian prints; it will probably be winter fabrics in 
August). Fortunately, it's all pretty accessible by foot, as the stores are 
concentrated in the 10 blocks along both sides of 9th.
I'm known as a "power-shopper," and I can cover the entire fabric area in 
about 7 hours.

Note for wool lovers: B. Black & Sons is NOT in this area. They are up at 
548 S. Los Angeles St., about 4 long blocks away. While they may not be the 
best bargain in the universe, you can still buy fine wool for less than 
you'll pay at Hancock's, JoAnn's or other local fabric stores (because 
they're buying it from B. Black's and marking it up), and it is the only 
place to get ultra-luxe fabrics like 100% cashmere and camelhair. 
Additional note: In checking their Web page, it seems that B. Black & Sons 
is now  handling fine silks and woolens under the "Kings Road" name. 
Something else to check out.

Thanks to whoever it was (I've forgotten--sorry!) that posted corrections 
to my directions. I've made the drive so many times the car is simply on 
auto-pilot, so I don't pay attention to the freeway name/number changes.

Dawn
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~



Kimiko Small
Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
kimiko@kimiko1.com; http://www.kimiko1.com
"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
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Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 19:55:31 -0600
From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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We have heat, here, too, so I truly sympathize.
I'm sure you'll have an absolutely wonderful, wonderful fashionable
time!
Make sure you stay hydrated by drinking lots and lots of water--it's a
big help to me when I'm in lots of costume.  It will be wonderful to see
all your pictures next week!
--sue, who's about to spend her weekend figuring out what to variously
throw out, give away, or put in storage before she moves next
month....ugh.....

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> 
> Hello the list,
> I can tell you that i am exhausted now. Finished the last things for the
> event 4 hours before my train leaves for Stockholm.
> My my there were times i was absolutely desperate, thinking i would never
> make it, but now, i can finally rest.
> I fear for the event for tomorrow, we have a heatwawe here, and i think it
> is the same in Sweden, although it is about 1000 km. further north. Running
> arround wearing a wig in the sunshine and the heat, .....puh!
> But i look forwards for the event. 80 people has signed for the day, and
> thinking about 80 people running arround looking wonderfull in their 18th
> .century garments in a beautifull English lanscape park, would be all the
> troubble worth and travel two..............
> Pictures next week, promise
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "Kendra Van Cleave" <kendra@tweedlebop.com>
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Okay, I know I'll never be organized enough to put a red H on my name tag,
so... do we want to organize a get together for h-costumers?  What about
Friday night?  Or at the Gala?

- Kendra

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
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>Okay, I know I'll never be organized enough to put a red H on my name tag,
>so... do we want to organize a get together for h-costumers?  What about
>Friday night?  Or at the Gala?

I'll be there, but I don't know if I'm attending the Gala or not.  I'll 
have a red H on my tag - are we trying for matching fonts here, or will any 
red H do?  And is it ok if I let the doll on my shoulder carry my H for me?


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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From: KATHRYN WOLTERS <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume College
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I'll be sure and put a red H on my tag as well:) I probably won't be going to the Gala as well--except to slip in after dinner --for a bit of the dancing and to check out the garb.
Cheers and Best--
Albra

Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote:

>Okay, I know I'll never be organized enough to put a red H on my name tag,
>so... do we want to organize a get together for h-costumers? What about
>Friday night? Or at the Gala?

I'll be there, but I don't know if I'm attending the Gala or not. I'll 
have a red H on my tag - are we trying for matching fonts here, or will any 
red H do? And is it ok if I let the doll on my shoulder carry my H for me?


CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
www.FunStuft.com

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) ((((((
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Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 23:31:49 -0700
From: Dawn Jacobson <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume College
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At 07:20 PM 7/25/2003 -0700, you wrote:

>>Okay, I know I'll never be organized enough to put a red H on my name tag,
>>so... do we want to organize a get together for h-costumers?  What about
>>Friday night?  Or at the Gala?
>
>I'll be there, but I don't know if I'm attending the Gala or not.  I'll 
>have a red H on my tag - are we trying for matching fonts here, or will 
>any red H do?  And is it ok if I let the doll on my shoulder carry my H for me?

Woohoo girl, we are gonna par-tay! 8-D

IIRC, the Costumers Guild West is throwing some kind of 20th anniversary 
celebration on Friday night in the Corcorde Room, but I'm open to suggestions.

I'll try to remember to put a red H on my badge (Kayta, slap me if I forget).

Dawn

Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are the costumes we wear every day. 
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Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2003 00:45:32 -0700
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume College
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Status: RO

At 07:06 PM 7/25/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>Okay, I know I'll never be organized enough to put a red H on my name tag,
>so... do we want to organize a get together for h-costumers?  What about
>Friday night?  Or at the Gala?
>
>- Kendra


I will be available most nights except for Sunday, when I have plans for 
dinner with friends before the Monday Fabric Dist. Tour. I have no plans to 
go to the Gala, except to gawk at the other ladies and gentlemen's garments 
as they sweep in. I will be in on Thursday evening sometime... not sure when.

And I just plan on a Red H of some sorta font, in bold, somewhere on my 
tags. Which reminds me... I gotta look for my tag holder thingy.

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
kimiko@kimiko1.com; http://www.kimiko1.com
"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Jul 26 04:30:03 2003
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From: "Cat Devereaux" <CatDevereaux@alleycatscratch.com>
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Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2003 01:28:03 -0700
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Subject: [h-cost] LA Fabric District
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Don't forget United Trim --- it's on 8th (Berger's street), but a block
and a half west of Maple on the north side.   It's amazing.  100 yards
of ribbon for 7-9 dollars.  Thin ribbon $3.  Well worth the extra walk

If you're coming in early... EmBe is closed until the 29th (or until
after, which makes it the 30th).   (The signage wasn't really clear.)
And his store is worth the trip down there alone.

Few more notes of things that have changed down there recently.

Lady Fabric is now $1 a yard (3 yard minim) ... it's NW corner of Maple
and 9th (just like EmBe) but on the outside.

Fabric Fabric, on 9th, north side, one door down from the NE corner...
much silk, any color, prices may not be the best but EVERY color in many
weights.  Wonderful shot silk taffeta .  

If you've got a LARGE budget... there's a store on Maple... mid way up
the street, next to the shoe stores, sets back off the street, ya can't
miss the glitter... has the most wonderful beaded silks from France,
England, India and more.  The fabric is expensive... but litterely half
what you will find on the west side of LA.

I could go on more... but heck... I twisted my own arm.... will see ya
guys down there... and help point people to shops... I mostly hang out
at EmBe's and in that center.

Oh yea...  in general, north side of 9th seems to be about $1 a yard
cheaper than the stuff south (which is closer to Levine's)

-Cat-




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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Jul 26 04:45:15 2003
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Subject: [h-cost] costumes of "The Six Wives of Henry VIII"
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Hi all,

I noticed in my email catchup that you all did talk about the recently 
shown on PBS film "Six Wives of Henry VIII". I managed to catch it all and 
tape it off for later dissection of the costumes.

I know that looking over the film is not a place to get sources for 
costumes, but as they were "supposed" to be based on the portraits 
themselves in many (tho not all) cases, I wanted to see how close to good, 
or not good, aspects of the recreated costumes were to the people on this 
list. To me, it is one thing to look at a painting and see how the styles 
and details were, it is another thing to see how it can be recreated and 
how it moves on a living person.

I have been looking over the pbs.org site on the film ( 
http://www.pbs.org/wnet/sixwives/ ), and it lists in the credits Jane 
Stuart-Brown as the costume designer. Doing a further google search on her, 
I find that Sudeley Castle has an exhibit using those costumes.
http://www.sudeleycastle.co.uk/sixwives.html

Has anyone from the UK (or visitors) seen the costumes up close? I am 
understanding from a few sites that some of the costumes from the series 
were recreated for show in the castle, placed on life-like mannequins 
created by sculptor John Robinson, and the jewelry was done by Lesley Beales.

I was also wondering what people who have seen the series thought of the 
costumes themselves? I personally liked the jewelry and such around the 
neck openings and across the hats on some, but wondered what some of the 
creations were, such as the golden colored large "pearls" on Catherine 
Howard's french hood.

I also had difficulties with one outfit Anne of Cleves was wearing, which 
seemed more like the hat of the Flying Nun, than anything I had seen 
before, but then I am not as familiar with German noble styles.

I also pondered at how very curved many of the bodices were... so much so 
it seemed you could see each bone through the fabric. No breasts seemed to 
be showing with how high they curved, and I know we've been discussing this 
aspect of corsets and such. And I noticed that some ladies with Catherine 
of Aragon did not wear any apparent farthingale, and that the foreparts 
seemed to sometimes look a bit bunched when they walked.

As I am still learning about the finer points of Tudor costumes, I was 
hoping to learn what was good and what was not in the recreated costumes 
from this film from the more learned members of this list. Any takers? And 
does anyone know if this will be a film discussed during Costume College, 
or is it too soon?

Thanks for anyone's thoughts on this film.

Kimiko

Kimiko Small
Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
kimiko@kimiko1.com; http://www.kimiko1.com
"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
http://www.costumegallery.com

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Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2003 06:22:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: KATHRYN WOLTERS <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume College
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I was planning on going to the Concord room party, too---I'll look for red 'H's there:)
Guess I better lay in a supply of champagne, too-------:)
Albra


Dawn Jacobson <dme_maud@pacbell.net> wrote:
At 07:20 PM 7/25/2003 -0700, you wrote:

>>Okay, I know I'll never be organized enough to put a red H on my name tag,
>>so... do we want to organize a get together for h-costumers? What about
>>Friday night? Or at the Gala?
>
>I'll be there, but I don't know if I'm attending the Gala or not. I'll 
>have a red H on my tag - are we trying for matching fonts here, or will 
>any red H do? And is it ok if I let the doll on my shoulder carry my H for me?

Woohoo girl, we are gonna par-tay! 8-D

IIRC, the Costumers Guild West is throwing some kind of 20th anniversary 
celebration on Friday night in the Corcorde Room, but I'm open to suggestions.

I'll try to remember to put a red H on my badge (Kayta, slap me if I forget).

Dawn

Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are the costumes we wear every day. 
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>
> I will be available most nights except for Sunday, when I have plans for
>  dinner with friends before the Monday Fabric Dist. Tour. I have no
> plans to  go to the Gala, except to gawk at the other ladies and
> gentlemen's garments  as they sweep in. I will be in on Thursday evening
> sometime... not sure when.

I was also not going to go to the Gala.  Is anybody?  I realize that we on
the list are not EVERYONE but we are a pretty good cross-section aren't
we?  Just wondering....

Diana
(who will also have a red H)


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	Sat, 26 Jul 2003 17:06:29 PDT
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2003 17:06:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dawn Jacobson <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume College
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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--- dch@inreach.com wrote:
> >
> > I will be available most nights except for Sunday,
> when I have plans for
> >  dinner with friends before the Monday Fabric
> Dist. Tour. I have no
> > plans to  go to the Gala, except to gawk at the
> other ladies and
> > gentlemen's garments  as they sweep in. I will be
> in on Thursday evening
> > sometime... not sure when.
> 
> I was also not going to go to the Gala.  Is anybody?
>  I realize that we on
> the list are not EVERYONE but we are a pretty good
> cross-section aren't
> we?  Just wondering....
> 
> Diana

I am, and the Tea on Sunday (got a new dress for
that).

Dawn

=====
Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are just the costumes we wear every day.
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jul 27 00:37:18 2003
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Oh Boy, I am really excited about getting to meet some people.  I am 
planning on going to the party on Friday.  I want to make a grass skirt for 
it.  I will look for those H's.
Cat - are you going to the garment district on monday?  Do you remember the 
name of the place that had the beaded trims?  The ballet company has a tutu 
that I can't stand for one more year without replacing the trim and they 
have more colors there than anywhere I have seen. I am not going to go 
crazy, I am not going to go crazy.  On the other hand, I have used all of 
the fabric that I bought there two years ago, except for the silk gauze 
that I bought for a specific purpose.  If I go crazy this year it will be 
ribbons.  I need ribbons for my Elizabethan dress.

Maryann

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume College/red H
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It's probably too late for this now, but, Costume Con had a stamp at
registration for the H-costumers to put on their badges?  Oh how I wish I
could go!!  Someday if I save all my pennies.

Genie(green with envy)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kimiko Small" <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 26, 2003 2:45 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume College


> At 07:06 PM 7/25/2003 -0700, you wrote:
> >Okay, I know I'll never be organized enough to put a red H on my name
tag,
> >so... do we want to organize a get together for h-costumers?  What about
> >Friday night?  Or at the Gala?
> >
> >- Kendra
>
>
> I will be available most nights except for Sunday, when I have plans for
> dinner with friends before the Monday Fabric Dist. Tour. I have no plans
to
> go to the Gala, except to gawk at the other ladies and gentlemen's
garments
> as they sweep in. I will be in on Thursday evening sometime... not sure
when.
>
> And I just plan on a Red H of some sorta font, in bold, somewhere on my
> tags. Which reminds me... I gotta look for my tag holder thingy.
>
> Kimiko
>
>
> Kimiko Small
> Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
> kimiko@kimiko1.com; http://www.kimiko1.com
> "When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell
>
> Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
> http://www.costumegallery.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jul 27 13:07:35 2003
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From: Kirrily Robert <skud@infotrope.net>
Subject: [h-cost] Elizabethan baby clothes and Italian pregnancy clothes
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Hi all,

I've just got around to putting the following up on my webpage:

1. Elizabethan baby clothes for a friend's baby
    http://elizabethangeek.com/katrowberd/projects/2003-lydia-linen/
2. Italian 1570s clothes for the same friend to wear while pregnant
    http://elizabethangeek.com/katrowberd/projects/2003-lucia-gown/

I hope some of you find them useful and/or interesting.

K.

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jul 27 15:50:32 2003
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Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 15:42:23 -0400
From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
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I watched only bits of the first half of the Six Wives of Henry VIII. I
liked the actress who did Catherine, but I didn't see much of her in costume
except for in a shift which, to me, did not look right. I am no expert in
the period but Henry VIII's clothes, at least in that part, did not fit him.

I was switching back and forth between that and something else, and gave up
in disgust when I saw the historian comment on an English version of the New
Testament that 'might have been the very one the queen kept open on a stand
in her room'! Well, considering how small and thick it was, I doubt very
much that you COULD keep it open on a stand. Then he spouted something about
how the Catholic Church wouldn't let anyone read the Bible in the vernacular
because they wanted blind obedience to the church's teachings and I gave up
in disgust. Talk about bias! If that's any indication of the breadth of his
scholarship, no wonder people have little good to say about him.

Not even costumes could keep me around after that.

Gail Finke


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Kirrily,

That baby indeed will be one of the best dressed, that smock and coif set is
just precious.  Thanks for posting.  I'd love to see photos of them when the
baby has them on.

Keep us posted!

Lisa

----- Original Message -----
From: "Kirrily Robert" <skud@infotrope.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2003 10:05 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Elizabethan baby clothes and Italian pregnancy clothes


> Hi all,
>
> I've just got around to putting the following up on my webpage:
>
> 1. Elizabethan baby clothes for a friend's baby
>     http://elizabethangeek.com/katrowberd/projects/2003-lydia-linen/
> 2. Italian 1570s clothes for the same friend to wear while pregnant
>     http://elizabethangeek.com/katrowberd/projects/2003-lucia-gown/
>
> I hope some of you find them useful and/or interesting.
>
> K.
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jul 27 16:04:49 2003
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Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 13:03:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: KATHRYN WOLTERS <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan baby clothes and Italian pregnancy clothes
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Very lovely, indeed! And inspirational --since I need to make a baby present to some friends who have recently become parents :)
Thanks so much for sharing!
Albra

Lisa Sinervo <Lisa-list@threadneedlest.com> wrote:
Kirrily,

That baby indeed will be one of the best dressed, that smock and coif set is
just precious. Thanks for posting. I'd love to see photos of them when the
baby has them on.

Keep us posted!

Lisa

----- Original Message -----
From: "Kirrily Robert" 
To: "Historical Costume" 
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2003 10:05 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Elizabethan baby clothes and Italian pregnancy clothes


> Hi all,
>
> I've just got around to putting the following up on my webpage:
>
> 1. Elizabethan baby clothes for a friend's baby
> http://elizabethangeek.com/katrowberd/projects/2003-lydia-linen/
> 2. Italian 1570s clothes for the same friend to wear while pregnant
> http://elizabethangeek.com/katrowberd/projects/2003-lucia-gown/
>
> I hope some of you find them useful and/or interesting.
>
> K.
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


_______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jul 27 16:29:49 2003
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Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 13:27:34 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan baby clothes and Italian pregnancy
  clothes
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>1. Elizabethan baby clothes for a friend's baby

Baby walkers are period, the earliest in-period example of which I have 
seen was from the late 1400s.  So I found a round-topped baby walker, and 
did an Elizabethan for my first daughter, with a skirt that was long enough 
and full enough to cover the walker, but short enough to not get in the way 
of the wheels.  So there she was at her first Twelfthnight, at age 10 
months and not walking yet, toddling around in what looked like a drum 
farthingale Elizabethan.  Leading strings are also period, so I could keep 
a rein on her, as it were.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
             ////-@@\\\
            ((((   7 )))
             (((  <> ))))
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jul 27 16:36:29 2003
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From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <4.3.1.2.20030727132319.04dc8f00@mail.frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan baby clothes and Italian pregnancy  clothes
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Leading reins are also period for wee boys. Tarquin (y son) had a set way
back when.

Bice
http://www.livejournal.com/users/jaie/
http://calendar.yahoo.com/de_gustibus_non_est_disputandum7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2003 1:27 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan baby clothes and Italian pregnancy clothes


>
> >1. Elizabethan baby clothes for a friend's baby
>
> Baby walkers are period, the earliest in-period example of which I have
> seen was from the late 1400s.  So I found a round-topped baby walker, and
> did an Elizabethan for my first daughter, with a skirt that was long
enough
> and full enough to cover the walker, but short enough to not get in the
way
> of the wheels.  So there she was at her first Twelfthnight, at age 10
> months and not walking yet, toddling around in what looked like a drum
> farthingale Elizabethan.  Leading strings are also period, so I could keep
> a rein on her, as it were.
>
>         CarolynKayta Barrows
> dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
>           www.FunStuft.com
>
>               //// \\\
>              ////-@@\\\
>             ((((   7 )))
>              (((  <> ))))
>                 )   ((((((
>            /----\   /---\))
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jul 27 16:38:14 2003
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I won't be there, but I went last year and LOVED it - I envy you all!

And yes - the Garment District IS all it's made out to be (drool!)

Allison T. (maybe next year!)

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan baby clothes and Italian pregnancy  clothes
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My "leading reins" for my boys have literally been life-savers. Kept ADHD
Stevie from dashing out into traffic or busy parking lots I don't know HOW
many times!

Dianne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2003 7:35 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan baby clothes and Italian pregnancy clothes


> Leading reins are also period for wee boys. Tarquin (y son) had a set way
> back when.
>
> Bice
> http://www.livejournal.com/users/jaie/
> http://calendar.yahoo.com/de_gustibus_non_est_disputandum7
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2003 1:27 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan baby clothes and Italian pregnancy
clothes
>
>
> >
> > >1. Elizabethan baby clothes for a friend's baby
> >
> > Baby walkers are period, the earliest in-period example of which I have
> > seen was from the late 1400s.  So I found a round-topped baby walker,
and
> > did an Elizabethan for my first daughter, with a skirt that was long
> enough
> > and full enough to cover the walker, but short enough to not get in the
> way
> > of the wheels.  So there she was at her first Twelfthnight, at age 10
> > months and not walking yet, toddling around in what looked like a drum
> > farthingale Elizabethan.  Leading strings are also period, so I could
keep
> > a rein on her, as it were.
> >
> >         CarolynKayta Barrows
> > dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
> >           www.FunStuft.com
> >
> >               //// \\\
> >              ////-@@\\\
> >             ((((   7 )))
> >              (((  <> ))))
> >                 )   ((((((
> >            /----\   /---\))
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan baby clothes and Italian pregnancy 
  clothes
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>Leading reins are also period for wee boys. Tarquin (y son) had a set way
>back when.

Especially since toddler boys and toddler girls dresses so much 
alike.  BTW, I hear that's how you tie them to your apron strings - by 
their leading strings.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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From: "Cat Devereaux" <CatDevereaux@alleycatscratch.com>
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Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 15:26:40 -0700
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Subject: [h-cost] Costume College / Garment District
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Status: RO

>>Cat - are you going to the garment district on Monday? 

Yes, I'll be down there.  Just coming on my own.  I won't be at college.

>> Do you remember the name of the place that had the beaded trims?  The
ballet company has a tutu that I can't stand for one more year without
replacing the trim and they have more colors there than anywhere I have
seen. 

??? Not sure which beaded place.  Bring a sample or a picture.

Good places for beaded trim (and trim in general) are on west side of
Maple: Trimming City, Trim 2000, Button and trim expo (new to some
folks). Good prices all of them.  Others.. new spot on 8th, north side,
west of Berger's by a block... no real name, go up the big, almost
department store stairs and turn right... heaven... BUT you really have
to know you prices... but if you buy his closeouts you get great prices
and can get beads with silk ribbon embroidery, fringes etc... but he
does closeout so you buy the right amount at the right time.  Already
beaded trim, Berger's of course and on 9th, north side, a block and a
half east there are a few more trimming places that sell the thick laces
as well as bead fringe.  Perfect stuff for Edwardian.  Dyes beautifully
and about 20% less than the stuff on maple.  There are a couple of other
spots in the fabric mart (where EmBe is) that have elaborate heavy laces
that are beaded that run from about 2" thick to 5".  Also, they're
caring some of the wider beaded sari trims now.

>>  If I go crazy this year it will be ribbons.  

United Beads, that I mentioned in my last post is best for that... 8th,
north side, block and a half west of Berger's.

And while I'm on trims, it used to be that the garment district didn't
carry any of the flat stuff we could use for medieval... that has
changed.   In the small shops they will either be in front side, or
behind the cash register.  Prices vary like crazy... so shop those
carefully.

Oh, if folks in general didn't catch the last post and are trying to
figure out directions... everything bases on Maple (runs n/s) and
8th/9th streets..  For a better description if you're going on your
own... http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr/Exhibit/FIDM/GatherMar8.htm
(half way down the page) has the info.

On more general thing about the tour on Monday... Since I'm not doing
the tour (and didn't do it last year), I don't know what the policy is
going to be on badges... but when I lead it for the last (ah too many
years), I have everyone remove their name badge because of the area
we're in, but I used to tag the group with stickers so everyone still
knew they were with a group.  I don't know what they will be doing. So,
someone may want to bring another pen to re-mark the "H" for Monday.

-Cat-



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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jul 27 19:55:59 2003
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Hi,

my husband and I saw POC today.  Fun film, don't even look for historical accuracy.  In fact what it reminded me of most was "The Crimson Pirate" with Burt Lancaster just more special effects.  

Genie
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Subject: [h-cost] Color help
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Status: RO

We are trying to figure out what a color would be on an 1863 ball gown.  The
color is a  "Vesuvius color".  Can someone please help us determine what
color this should be.  Below is the description of the dress:

Ball dress of white satin silk, trimmed with quilling of white ribbon.  The
upper dress is of spotted lace, with a broad ribbon of Vesuvius color around
of the lace dress.  {I believe this is the ribbon on the over-skirt}

We have not finished cleaning this plate but you can see it at
http://www.costumegallery.com/1863/color1b.jpg

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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>We are trying to figure out what a color would be on an 1863 ball gown.  The
>color is a  "Vesuvius color".

Before I looked at the plate, I guessed it would be the grey color of 
volcanic ash.  Then I looked.  Parts of the ribbon are pumice grey, and the 
rest is obsidian black.  Otherwise, I'm as stumped as you are.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Kayta,

You really can't go by the color on the plate right now.  This plate is in
sad condition and has a lot of staining from age.  The only thing that has
been re-painted so far is the white you see on the right side dress and the
white painting is not completed yet.

Case in point... the trim on the left side dress is purple according to the
description.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2003 3:34 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Color help


>
> >We are trying to figure out what a color would be on an 1863 ball gown.
The
> >color is a  "Vesuvius color".
>
> Before I looked at the plate, I guessed it would be the grey color of
> volcanic ash.  Then I looked.  Parts of the ribbon are pumice grey, and
the
> rest is obsidian black.  Otherwise, I'm as stumped as you are.
>
>
>         CarolynKayta Barrows
> dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
>           www.FunStuft.com
>
>               //// \\\
>              ////-@@\\\
>             ((((   7 )))
>              (((  <> ))))
>                 )   ((((((
>            /----\   /---\))
>
> _______________________________________________
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Gail wrote:

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> Then he spouted something about
how the Catholic Church wouldn't let anyone read the Bible in the
vernacular because they wanted blind obedience to the church's teachings
and I gave up in disgust. Talk about bias! >>>

Can you elucidate for the benefit of ignorant Protestants? I've always
understood that this was so. Wasn't William Tyndale  executed for
translating the Bible into English because his work was considered
subversive?




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I received a notice stating my subscription to Victoria Magazine (Hearst Publications) has been shifted to another publication as this wonderful mag has ceased publication with the June 2003 issue.  How can this be?  Does anyone have a clue what happened?  I thought this was the greatest magazine ever printed and have each and every issue since the first quarterly one printed in the fall of 1985.  Please if anyone knows what happened I would like to hear it.

Devastated,
Phoebe

the prairie lark

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>You really can't go by the color on the plate right now.

Or the color on my monitor either.  I told you I guessed ;)


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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I've been away for the computer for some time and in the interim my list membership cancelled because my mailbox was full, so if this has already been discussed, I aplogize for repeating but I missed it. Saturday I received a notice stating my subscription to Victoria Magazine (Hearst  Publications) has been shifted to another publication as this wonderful  mag has ceased publication with the June 2003 issue.  How can this be?
  Does anyone have a clue what happened?  I thought this was the 
greatest magazine ever printed and have each and every issue since the 
first quarterly one printed in the fall of 1985.  Please if anyone knows
 what happened I would like to hear it.

Devastated,
Phoebe

the prairie lark



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------------------------------
> From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
> You really can't go by the color on the plate right now.  This plate is in
> sad condition and has a lot of staining from age.  The only thing that has
> been re-painted so far is the white you see on the right side dress and the
> white painting is not completed yet.

Do you have time to compare it to another copy of the plate? I'm sorry 
we don't have the 1863 volume of Peterson's (that's where it is from, 
yes?) but it is available in quite a few university libraries. Then 
again, comparing it to another plate might not be as helpful as one 
might think: I believe Peterson's was like Godey's in how it handled the 
coloration of these plates. The hand tinting was done as "piecework" by 
a number of women who didn't use a common set of paints, so there were 
variations in colors on identical plates.

- Hope (hope.greenberg@uvm.edu, U of Vermont)

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I will be at C.C. but will not be attending the Gala.  However, I will have 
a red H on my name tag so I hope to meet you all in person.

I am not against a little get together.  Maybe one of the less busy evenings 
we can meet for dinner or something???

Maybe we can have the cool kids lunch table where we all wear red H's and 
matching bomber jackets.  We can be the H-Cost Crew...

Anyway, see you all in a couple of days!!!  This is going to be so much 
fun!!!!!!!!!!!

:) jessica

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     Sorry to use the list, but a couple weeks ago Penny Ladnier asked me 
something about the Long Hair list <www.tlhs.com>.  Penny, I tried e-mailing 
you and it keeps bouncing!  I hope you were able to fix the problem and I 
wasn't ignoring you!

     For everyone else, long hair is fashionable for many of the time periods 
we do, and the long hair page (and its e-mail list) offers haircare tips, 
support, and admiration for long hair and hairstyles.

     -Carol

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From: Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>
To: historic costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] 150th anniversary parade
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We were in a parade on Saturday (celebrating my town's 150th anniversary
as an independent town, though the town was founded in 1630); I and my
twins and Husband were wearing 1900 dress to celebrate the 50th
anniversary of 1903.  I was very happy to be in a covered car (1930
model A Ford, beautiful) not walking in the sun as it was 85 degrees
out.  But at least it wasn't humid.  One spectator who videoed us even
knew what era we were from!  The boys even didn't fight me when I tried
to get them into their sailor outfits.  I will try and get pictures up
soon.  Didn't take many digital ones, have to wait for my film.  We also
had a 150th Victorian Ball 2 weeks ago and got great photos there.  I
made a Roman striped flounced 1850's gown much like the one from the
Cincinnati Museum exhibition catalogue.

One of the ladies in the parade who dressed in 1850's (acetate version
of the Simplicity flounced dress) had bags of frozen vegetables inside
her bodice instead of bust pads to keep cool!

I dressed the curator of our Historical society in 1853 dress, who is 70
or so.  Green velvet bonnet with lots of flowers, a mantle of white
cotton with eyelet trim (copied from an original in my collection), a
periwinkle blue silk skirt with petticoats and a silver tussy mussie
with silk violets.  She looked so pretty, like her grandmother who she
is named for.  I was very happy to get her dressed appropriately.

We also lucked out with weather as the humidity was back up to 110
percent the next day!

Katy


Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
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Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 13:12:17 -0700
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Ok back last week when my computer went down to a virus and I had to reformat I had a TON of links for fans and fan making etc etc. I've lost them all (backing up on disk all my links this time smart cookie that I am)Does ANYONE have links for examples of fans how to's on fans etc etc. I like to have them for reference when making a fan and I hate not having a picture to look at.

Bice
http://www.jacquelinejohnson.allhere.com/
http://www.livejournal.com/users/jaie/
http://calendar.yahoo.com/de_gustibus_non_est_disputandum7
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul 28 13:14:42 2003
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From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 150th anniversary parade
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So lucky! Tarquin has fits when I try to dress him. He's 12 and even at age
4 went on strike when I attempted a Fauntelroy suit. *sigh* I miss those
days.
So glad you had fun!
Bice
http://www.jacquelinejohnson.allhere.com/
http://www.livejournal.com/users/jaie/
http://calendar.yahoo.com/de_gustibus_non_est_disputandum7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Katy Bishop" <vintage@shore.net>
To: "historic costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2003 10:06 AM
Subject: [h-cost] 150th anniversary parade


>
> We were in a parade on Saturday (celebrating my town's 150th anniversary
> as an independent town, though the town was founded in 1630); I and my
> twins and Husband were wearing 1900 dress to celebrate the 50th
> anniversary of 1903.  I was very happy to be in a covered car (1930
> model A Ford, beautiful) not walking in the sun as it was 85 degrees
> out.  But at least it wasn't humid.  One spectator who videoed us even
> knew what era we were from!  The boys even didn't fight me when I tried
> to get them into their sailor outfits.  I will try and get pictures up
> soon.  Didn't take many digital ones, have to wait for my film.  We also
> had a 150th Victorian Ball 2 weeks ago and got great photos there.  I
> made a Roman striped flounced 1850's gown much like the one from the
> Cincinnati Museum exhibition catalogue.
>
> One of the ladies in the parade who dressed in 1850's (acetate version
> of the Simplicity flounced dress) had bags of frozen vegetables inside
> her bodice instead of bust pads to keep cool!
>
> I dressed the curator of our Historical society in 1853 dress, who is 70
> or so.  Green velvet bonnet with lots of flowers, a mantle of white
> cotton with eyelet trim (copied from an original in my collection), a
> periwinkle blue silk skirt with petticoats and a silver tussy mussie
> with silk violets.  She looked so pretty, like her grandmother who she
> is named for.  I was very happy to get her dressed appropriately.
>
> We also lucked out with weather as the humidity was back up to 110
> percent the next day!
>
> Katy
>
>
> Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
> vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
>      Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
>       Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul 28 13:34:45 2003
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	Mon, 28 Jul 2003 10:27:44 PDT
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 10:27:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Angela Kovatch <ivyharpdotcom@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Color help
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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My guess on hearing the color name would be a deep
red, more like an erupting volcano.  For comparison,
check out how Nokia and Corian are using the color
name today:
http://www.abmwireless.com/skr72.html
http://www.corian.com/CorianPublic/corian/b/es/h/Colors/SubPaletteWarms.html
(On the Corian page, my image of Vesuvius red was more
like what they're calling Pompeii red.)

My next question would be, what was Vesuvius' role in
current news of the day?  If it had recently erupted,
I would definitely think red rather than grey.  I
didn't find an answer in my quick 'net search, but
this site
http://www.cotf.edu/ete/modules/volcanoes/vmtvesuvius.html
seems to suggest that archeology might have been
bringing to light the story of the ancient Pompeii
disaster about the time of your dress.  This story is
very capable of grabbing imaginations and conjuring up
images of volcanoes in full action, so if it was in
the news, I would personally lean toward the "deep
red" theory for what the color is.

Just something more to think about.  Good luck-
Angela

--- Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote:
> We are trying to figure out what a color would be on
> an 1863 ball gown.  The
> color is a  "Vesuvius color".  Can someone please
> help us determine what
> color this should be.  Below is the description of
> the dress:
> 
> Ball dress of white satin silk, trimmed with
> quilling of white ribbon.  The
> upper dress is of spotted lace, with a broad ribbon
> of Vesuvius color around
> of the lace dress.  {I believe this is the ribbon on
> the over-skirt}
> 
> We have not finished cleaning this plate but you can
> see it at
> http://www.costumegallery.com/1863/color1b.jpg
> 
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
> 
> 
> [This E-mail was scanned for viruses by Plugit.com
> Virus Scanners (http://www.plugit.com)]
> 
> _______________________________________________
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 13:39:36 -0400
From: "Katie Lewis" <katie_lewis@lycos.com>
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Gorgeous!  

I recently made a similar outfit for my son who is 2 1/2 months old and it worked quite well.  Yes, I know that a child his age should still be swaddled.  But Thomas hasn't wanted to be swaddled since he was 2 weeks old, and in Arizona, in the summer swaddling would be tantamount to child abuse. 


 One suggestion: Make the clothes too big, then take them in on all of the seams at 1/2 inch intervals.  Then put in a deep hem to the correct length.  In this way the clothing may be let out as the child grows.  The outfit I made for my son has 4 inches of expansion room around, and 2 inches in length, so he will be able to wear it for awhile.

I don't have any evidence that this was done during the 16th century.  However, I do know that it was done in the 19th century, and it seems logical (that dangerous word) to suppose (another risky word) that in the 16th century not having to replace the child's entire wardrobe every few months would also be a good thing.

-Katie
Who is also pleased that my husband has agreed to keep the boy in skirts until he is 5.

---
Willow: No, Ma, hear this! I'm a rebel! I'm having a rebellion!
Sheila: Willow, honey, you don't need to act out like this to prove your specialness.
Willow:  Mom, I'm not acting out. I'm a witch! I-I can make pencils float. And I can summon the four elements. Okay, two, but four soon. A-and I'm dating a musician.I worship Beelzebub. I do his biddings. Do 
you see any goats around? No, because I sacrificed them.
Sheila:I'm not listening to this.
Willow:Prince of Night, I summon you. Come fill me with your black, naughty evil.






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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul 28 13:43:53 2003
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	Mon, 28 Jul 2003 10:41:58 PDT
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 10:41:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: Angela Kessler <ivyharpdotcom@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Color help
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Here, found a bit of info about Vesuvius in the 19th
century:
Between the great eruption of 1631 and 1944, Vesuvius
is almost always in activity with only brief periods
of quiescence not exceeding 7 years. Major eruptions
occurred in 1794, 1822, 1834, 1850 e 1872.

This site had more information:
http://www.vesuvioinrete.it/e_storia.htm

-Angela

--- Angela Kovatch <ivyharpdotcom@yahoo.com> wrote:
> My guess on hearing the color name would be a deep
> red, more like an erupting volcano.  For comparison,
> check out how Nokia and Corian are using the color
> name today:
> http://www.abmwireless.com/skr72.html
>
http://www.corian.com/CorianPublic/corian/b/es/h/Colors/SubPaletteWarms.html
> (On the Corian page, my image of Vesuvius red was
> more
> like what they're calling Pompeii red.)
> 
> My next question would be, what was Vesuvius' role
> in
> current news of the day?  If it had recently
> erupted,
> I would definitely think red rather than grey.  I
> didn't find an answer in my quick 'net search, but
> this site
>
http://www.cotf.edu/ete/modules/volcanoes/vmtvesuvius.html
> seems to suggest that archeology might have been
> bringing to light the story of the ancient Pompeii
> disaster about the time of your dress.  This story
> is
> very capable of grabbing imaginations and conjuring
> up
> images of volcanoes in full action, so if it was in
> the news, I would personally lean toward the "deep
> red" theory for what the color is.
> 
> Just something more to think about.  Good luck-
> Angela
> 
> --- Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote:
> > We are trying to figure out what a color would be
> on
> > an 1863 ball gown.  The
> > color is a  "Vesuvius color".  Can someone please
> > help us determine what
> > color this should be.  Below is the description of
> > the dress:
> > 
> > Ball dress of white satin silk, trimmed with
> > quilling of white ribbon.  The
> > upper dress is of spotted lace, with a broad
> ribbon
> > of Vesuvius color around
> > of the lace dress.  {I believe this is the ribbon
> on
> > the over-skirt}
> > 
> > We have not finished cleaning this plate but you
> can
> > see it at
> > http://www.costumegallery.com/1863/color1b.jpg
> > 
> > Penny Ladnier
> > Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> > www.costumegallery.com
> > www.costumeclassroom.com
> > 
> > 
> > [This E-mail was scanned for viruses by Plugit.com
> > Virus Scanners (http://www.plugit.com)]
> > 
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
> __________________________________
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Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 13:47:16 -0400 (EDT)
From: Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>
To: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 150th anniversary parade
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I did bribe them a bit with new LEgo Bionocles.....last Summer they
wouldn't wear the outfits until I took off the small blue ties.  Go
figure the mind of a 5 year old.

Katy

On Mon, 28 Jul 2003, Bice d'Este wrote:

>So lucky! Tarquin has fits when I try to dress him. He's 12 and even at age
>4 went on strike when I attempted a Fauntelroy suit. *sigh* I miss those
>days.
>So glad you had fun!
>Bice
>http://www.jacquelinejohnson.allhere.com/
>http://www.livejournal.com/users/jaie/
>http://calendar.yahoo.com/de_gustibus_non_est_disputandum7
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Katy Bishop" <vintage@shore.net>
>To: "historic costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Monday, July 28, 2003 10:06 AM
>Subject: [h-cost] 150th anniversary parade
>
>
>>
>> We were in a parade on Saturday (celebrating my town's 150th anniversary
>> as an independent town, though the town was founded in 1630); I and my
>> twins and Husband were wearing 1900 dress to celebrate the 50th
>> anniversary of 1903.  I was very happy to be in a covered car (1930
>> model A Ford, beautiful) not walking in the sun as it was 85 degrees
>> out.  But at least it wasn't humid.  One spectator who videoed us even
>> knew what era we were from!  The boys even didn't fight me when I tried
>> to get them into their sailor outfits.  I will try and get pictures up
>> soon.  Didn't take many digital ones, have to wait for my film.  We also
>> had a 150th Victorian Ball 2 weeks ago and got great photos there.  I
>> made a Roman striped flounced 1850's gown much like the one from the
>> Cincinnati Museum exhibition catalogue.
>>
>> One of the ladies in the parade who dressed in 1850's (acetate version
>> of the Simplicity flounced dress) had bags of frozen vegetables inside
>> her bodice instead of bust pads to keep cool!
>>
>> I dressed the curator of our Historical society in 1853 dress, who is 70
>> or so.  Green velvet bonnet with lots of flowers, a mantle of white
>> cotton with eyelet trim (copied from an original in my collection), a
>> periwinkle blue silk skirt with petticoats and a silver tussy mussie
>> with silk violets.  She looked so pretty, like her grandmother who she
>> is named for.  I was very happy to get her dressed appropriately.
>>
>> We also lucked out with weather as the humidity was back up to 110
>> percent the next day!
>>
>> Katy
>>
>>
>> Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
>> vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
>>      Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
>>       Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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In a message dated 7/28/2003 4:13:06 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk writes:

> Can you elucidate for the benefit of ignorant Protestants? I've always
> understood that this was so. Wasn't William Tyndale  executed for
> translating the Bible into English because his work was considered
> subversive?

Maybe I'm not the best person to ask, but I went to a Catholic school for 
seven years and had to take religious courses each year, including "Christology" 
and "Christian History", both of which had a decidedly Catholic bent..and I've 
never even heard of the Catholic Church doing such a thing- and I had good 
teachers, even if I didn't actually want to sit in class each day and read about 
religion, then get tested on it <g>

Christine
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From: Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Men's Victorian Patterns?
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I have a few man's bathing costumes listed, go to my site and click on
the "fashions" link in the righthand menu.

http://www.vintagevictorian.com/Victorian.html

there will be a link to period bathing costumes for men, all I have
there so far is 1899 and 1905.

Hope this helps.

Katy

On Tue, 22 Jul 2003, David S. Mallinak wrote:

>Greetings,
>
>I have been looking for information and patterns for Men's swimwear for
>Victorian to 1920's. I could not find much information. I was wondering if
>the Costume list had any recommendation.
>
>Your humble and obediant servant,
>David S Mallinak
>_______________________________________________
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Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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From: prairielark <prairielark@herspace.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] William Tyndale
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This is an interesting site dedicated to William Tyndale:

http://www.williamtyndale.com/0welcomewilliamtyndale.htm

There are others that come up if you search on his name on just about any engine.  
http://www.tyndale.org/ is one.  

William Tyndale was a Catholic priest who was strangled (some sources say beheaded) and then burned at the stake for the crime of translating the holy texts into English.  It's more complicated than this, and I'm not getting involved in a discussion about who and how.... just passing along the requested information.

Phoebe

the prairie lark


--- IceGirlNIN@aol.com wrote:
>In a message dated 7/28/2003 4:13:06 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
>K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk writes:
>
>> Can you elucidate for the benefit of ignorant Protestants? I've always
>> understood that this was so. Wasn't William Tyndale  executed for
>> translating the Bible into English because his work was considered
>> subversive?
>
>Maybe I'm not the best person to ask, but I went to a Catholic school for 
>seven years and had to take religious courses each year, including "Christology" 
>and "Christian History", both of which had a decidedly Catholic bent..and I've 
>never even heard of the Catholic Church doing such a thing- and I had good 
>teachers, even if I didn't actually want to sit in class each day and read about 
>religion, then get tested on it <g>
>
>Christine
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan baby clothes and Italian pregnancy clothes
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"Katie Lewis" <katie_lewis@lycos.com> wrote:
> Then put in a deep hem to the correct length. 
>I don't have any evidence that this was done during the 16th century. 
I can document deep hems on children in the 16th century.
http://www.artchive.com/artchive/B/bruegel/dance.jpg.html
(see the leftmost child in the gray dress)

Constance
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Carol,

Did you find out why I am not receiving mail from mail from TLHS?  I haven't
received mail from the list since May.

Your mail may be bouncing this past week to me because someone in China
spoofed two of my email addresses and sent out a bunch of porn mail.  Some
ISP's like AOL and CompuServe have blocked all mail to and from me.  We are
working on this problem.  I don't know how many other ISPs have blocked me.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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Hope,

Peterson's plates were done as piecework like Godey's.  One of my interns
does have a copy of the year, so I will ask her to email me a scan of her
month's plate.  What an excellent idea Hope.  Thank you.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] William Tyndale
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I'd like more information about the "bias" comment also...
At that time, HENRY was executing translators.

In the middle ages there were several translations of portions of the Bible into English.  However, in the fourteenth century, the rise and fall of the Lollards set the stage for the reformation.  
*************************************
Executed for translating the Bible into the vernacular:
John Wycliffe (1330-1384)
*technically* he wasn't executed, but in 1415, the Council of Constance decreed that his bones were dragged from the grave and burned
***********************
William Tyndale (1494-1535) 
Burned at the stake 
***********************
John Rogers (Thomas Matthew)
burned at the stake by Mary
***********************
And if they don't count, what about George Marsh of Chester, Derek Carver of Brighton, William Wolsey and Robert Piggott of Wisbech?

Oh.  Obligatory costume content:  Whee!  I have everything done for Pennsic - can't wait to see you there!

Constance
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] To Penny
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Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com> said:

> Carol,
> 
> Did you find out why I am not receiving mail from mail from TLHS?  I haven't
> received mail from the list since May.

Hi Penny,

     In April, Frank (the list owner) unsubbed everyone and we all had to 
resubscribe through the web page.  He was having trouble with duplicate 
addresses, bounced e-mail, etc.

     Did you remember to resubscribe?

     And for the rest of the list :-), www.tlhs.com has a section with 
instructions on how to subscribe to the e-mail list.

     -Carol

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From: prairielark <prairielark@herspace.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] William Tyndale & refs
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Search engines are wonderful things...

http://www.ianpaisley.org/martyrs.asp
A site dedicated to the European Institute of Protestant Studies.  If you look over the site's decidedly anti-Catholic bent in the first pages, there are some interesting primary source-quoted refs on the people Constance mentioned.

Obligatory costume bent: 

I've always wanted to do this period (Tudor England), and the more I read about it, the more fascinating it appears.  Any good costume refs I might begin with?

Thanks ever so,
Phoebe

the prairie lark

--- ConstanceFairfax@cs.com wrote:
>I'd like more information about the "bias" comment also...
>At that time, HENRY was executing translators.
>
>In the middle ages there were several translations of portions of the Bible into English.  However, in the fourteenth century, the rise and fall of the Lollards set the stage for the reformation.  
>*************************************
>Executed for translating the Bible into the vernacular:
>John Wycliffe (1330-1384)
>*technically* he wasn't executed, but in 1415, the Council of Constance decreed that his bones were dragged from the grave and burned
>***********************
>William Tyndale (1494-1535) 
>Burned at the stake 
>***********************
>John Rogers (Thomas Matthew)
>burned at the stake by Mary
>***********************
>And if they don't count, what about George Marsh of Chester, Derek Carver of Brighton, William Wolsey and Robert Piggott of Wisbech?
>
>Oh.  Obligatory costume content:  Whee!  I have everything done for Pennsic - can't wait to see you there!
>
>Constance
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prairielark <prairielark@herspace.com>
>
> http://www.ianpaisley.org/martyrs.asp
> A site dedicated to the European Institute of Protestant Studies.  If you look over the site's decidedly anti-Catholic bent in the first pages, there are some interesting primary source-quoted refs on the people Constance mentioned.

[cringe]  For those who are somewhat ignorant of current events in the UK
and ireland, Ian Paisley is sort of the equivalent of Fred Phelps.  I'd
take anything at his site with a bag of salt, as there's likely to be more
than just a *little* bias there.  

A very short page on "outlawed english"
http://www.smu.edu/bridwell/publications/ryrie_catalog/7_1.htm

A longer, but somewhat biased account of english translations of the bible:
http://www.greatsite.com/engbibhis/

[atheist, no stake in either side]
Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] William Tyndale & refs
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Phoebe wrote:
> I've always wanted to do this period (Tudor England), and the more I read about it, the more fascinating it appears.  Any good costume refs I might begin with?

For books, take a look at the bibliography here:
http://elizabethangeek.com/biblio/

I mention the general link because there are other topic headings as
well as a few for costume, which might be of interest to people.
But if you click on "Browse by subject" you'll see entries there for a
bunch of costume books, many with reviews.

K.
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Quick update on this. I'm just back from a dig where I saw a friend who did
her PhD on shoes (not hidden shoes) . Anyhow I mentioned the hidden clothing
etc in passing and she mentioned how often the hidden shoes were just like
mini burials and very deliberate rather than stuffed by accident or by lazy
builders.  Shoes she had come across were mostly adult and mostly worn, ie
not worn out but not new. Anyway not much but a little to add to the topic.

There's a paper wanting on these I think............

Mel

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan baby clothes and Italian pregnancy  clothes
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The baby farthingale sounds very cute, but since baby walkers *are* 
period, why not fancy up the babywalker (wrap in brown paper and 
varnish?) and let it show?

Jean

Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote
>
>>1. Elizabethan baby clothes for a friend's baby
>
>Baby walkers are period, the earliest in-period example of which I have 
>seen was from the late 1400s.  So I found a round-topped baby walker, 
>and did an Elizabethan for my first daughter, with a skirt that was 
>long enough and full enough to cover the walker, but short enough to 
>not get in the way of the wheels.  So there she was at her first 
>Twelfthnight, at age 10 months and not walking yet, toddling around in 
>what looked like a drum farthingale Elizabethan.  Leading strings are 
>also period, so I could keep a rein on her, as it were.
>
>       CarolynKayta Barrows
>dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
>         www.FunStuft.com
>
>             //// \\\
>            ////-@@\\\
>           ((((   7 )))
>            (((  <> ))))
>               )   ((((((
>          /----\   /---\))
>
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: English Protestant history
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OK, first my credentials: I grew up in the Roman Catholic Church and went
through 12 years of Catholic schools. I am deeply interested in the
Elizabethan era and the English Reformation, so I've been doing some reading
on this sort of subject. So, I have seen things from both sides of the
fence.

The Catholic Church was not against vernacular translations, per se, but
they did have to be authorized by the Vatican/Pope first. They also (IIRC)
had to be translated from the Latin Vulgate which was the authorized
Catholic translation at the time. The Vulgate was first written by St.
Jerome in the 2nd-3rd cent. A.D. One of the things Tyndale, et al, were
doing was translating from the original Greek, Hebrew and Aramaic. The
Catholic Church really didn't like that much, because they did want to make
sure that they were in charge of interpretation. Their reasoning was that
the common person did not have enough education to understand and interpret
Scripture and would be led to heresy by trying to figure it out themselves.
In part, they were right - the common person was not highly educated or
literate up until the 16th century. The movable printing press exploded the
opportunity to publish books, and subsequently more people were being
educated.

Here's a few links that give the argument from both sides
Protestant: http://www.bible-researcher.com/cath-intro.html
Catholic: http://www.bible-researcher.com/catholic-intro.html

 If you have any more questions, or want some more details, email me off
list - I'd be happy to babble for awhile :-)

Obligatory Costume Content: When Elizabeth took the throne and put the
Church of England back into place, there was some huffing and puffing about
the wearing of vestments by the clergy - those who were stricter Protestants
thought the vestments reeked of popery and wanted to ditch them. There was
finally some compromise in that they only had to wear some of the old
vestments, not all of them.

>
> > Can you elucidate for the benefit of ignorant Protestants? I've always
> > understood that this was so. Wasn't William Tyndale  executed for
> > translating the Bible into English because his work was considered
> > subversive?
>

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot
BRF FOF; Guilde of St. Lawrence

A room without books is like a body without a soul
---Cicero

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************

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Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 17:53:49 -0600
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I guess it'd have an anti-Catholic bend! Ooooh, just the name of Ian
Paisley raises my hackles......
--sue, who might poke around in there anyway....
p.s. OCC: Drea's website has scads of wonderful things for 16th c.
costuming (including the later Tudors).  Check her out at:
http://costume.dm.net/


prairielark wrote:
> 
> Search engines are wonderful things...
> 
> http://www.ianpaisley.org/martyrs.asp
> A site dedicated to the European Institute of Protestant Studies.  If you look over the site's decidedly anti-Catholic bent in the first pages, there are some interesting primary source-quoted refs on the people Constance mentioned.
> 
> Obligatory costume bent:
> 
> I've always wanted to do this period (Tudor England), and the more I read about it, the more fascinating it appears.  Any good costume refs I might begin with?
> 
> Thanks ever so,
> Phoebe
> 
> the prairie lark
> 
> --- ConstanceFairfax@cs.com wrote:
> >I'd like more information about the "bias" comment also...
> >At that time, HENRY was executing translators.
> >
> >In the middle ages there were several translations of portions of the Bible into English.  However, in the fourteenth century, the rise and fall of the Lollards set the stage for the reformation.
> >*************************************
> >Executed for translating the Bible into the vernacular:
> >John Wycliffe (1330-1384)
> >*technically* he wasn't executed, but in 1415, the Council of Constance decreed that his bones were dragged from the grave and burned
> >***********************
> >William Tyndale (1494-1535)
> >Burned at the stake
> >***********************
> >John Rogers (Thomas Matthew)
> >burned at the stake by Mary
> >***********************
> >And if they don't count, what about George Marsh of Chester, Derek Carver of Brighton, William Wolsey and Robert Piggott of Wisbech?
> >
> >Oh.  Obligatory costume content:  Whee!  I have everything done for Pennsic - can't wait to see you there!
> >
> >Constance
> >_______________________________________________
> >h-costume mailing list
> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> _____________________________________________________________
> Herspace.com
> [[feed your heart * fuel your art]]
> http://www.herspace.com
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jul 28 19:55:26 2003
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Okay, now, I'm quite aware of who Paisley is, but who's Fred Phelps?
--sue, curiously....

Lee Thompson-Herbert wrote:
> 
> [cringe]  For those who are somewhat ignorant of current events in the UK
> and ireland, Ian Paisley is sort of the equivalent of Fred Phelps.  I'd
> take anything at his site with a bag of salt, as there's likely to be more
> than just a *little* bias there.
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From: KATHRYN WOLTERS <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume College
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Would love to get together with other H-costumers for lunch.I'm teaching both saturday and sunday in the mornings (metal thread embroidery)--but could be free for lunch by 1pm.
Albra

jessica stier <jessicastier@hotmail.com> wrote:


I will be at C.C. but will not be attending the Gala. However, I will have 
a red H on my name tag so I hope to meet you all in person.

I am not against a little get together. Maybe one of the less busy evenings 
we can meet for dinner or something???

Maybe we can have the cool kids lunch table where we all wear red H's and 
matching bomber jackets. We can be the H-Cost Crew...

Anyway, see you all in a couple of days!!! This is going to be so much 
fun!!!!!!!!!!!

:) jessica

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You have my sympathies - first I got a new computer that needed all my old
stuff put in then 5 months later the new computer had to be wiped and
reformated.  Anyway, I think this link came from this list this winter:
http://www.vertetsable.com/demos_fans.htm

Janet

Janet Davis
Castle Furnishings
http://www.medievalbookstore.com

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>From: "Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk>
>...There's a paper wanting on these I think............

I believe Brian Hoggard is writing his dissertation on this topic, although 
based on his earlier works I believe he's probably going to be coming from 
the "they are all ritually concealed" perspective.  Much of his stuff is 
available on the web.

Marc

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>Okay, now, I'm quite aware of who Paisley is, but who's Fred Phelps?

A fundamentalist preacher who likes to picket funerals of AIDS victims
with charming signs like "GOD HATES FAGS."  Worse, he gets his grandkids
to carry the signs on the reasoning that no one would argue with 6 and 7
year olds.  A thoroughly disgusting man.

--Lee
[if you have a strong stomach, read the story of his son:
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/michael_haggerty/expose3.htm ]
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Thanks for this, Rebecca. To others who replied, yes, I did know that
Tyndale was really executed, I was just puzzled by Gail's assertion that
the comment made in the programme was incorrect and biased.
Of course, in my period (mid 17th century) all sorts of weird sects did
spring up as a result of semi-educated people interpreting the Bible.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> lotsofteapots@charter.net 07/28/03 11:41pm >>>
OK, first my credentials: I grew up in the Roman Catholic Church and
went
through 12 years of Catholic schools. I am deeply interested in the
Elizabethan era and the English Reformation, so I've been doing some
reading
on this sort of subject. So, I have seen things from both sides of the
fence.

The Catholic Church was not against vernacular translations, per se,
but
they did have to be authorized by the Vatican/Pope first. They also
(IIRC)
had to be translated from the Latin Vulgate which was the authorized
Catholic translation at the time. The Vulgate was first written by St.
Jerome in the 2nd-3rd cent. A.D. One of the things Tyndale, et al,
were
doing was translating from the original Greek, Hebrew and Aramaic. The
Catholic Church really didn't like that much, because they did want to
make
sure that they were in charge of interpretation. Their reasoning was
that
the common person did not have enough education to understand and
interpret
Scripture and would be led to heresy by trying to figure it out
themselves.
In part, they were right - the common person was not highly educated
or
literate up until the 16th century. The movable printing press exploded
the
opportunity to publish books, and subsequently more people were being
educated.

Here's a few links that give the argument from both sides
Protestant: http://www.bible-researcher.com/cath-intro.html 
Catholic: http://www.bible-researcher.com/catholic-intro.html 

 If you have any more questions, or want some more details, email me
off
list - I'd be happy to babble for awhile :-)

Obligatory Costume Content: When Elizabeth took the throne and put the
Church of England back into place, there was some huffing and puffing
about
the wearing of vestments by the clergy - those who were stricter
Protestants
thought the vestments reeked of popery and wanted to ditch them. There
was
finally some compromise in that they only had to wear some of the old
vestments, not all of them.

>
> > Can you elucidate for the benefit of ignorant Protestants? I've
always
> > understood that this was so. Wasn't William Tyndale  executed for
> > translating the Bible into English because his work was considered
> > subversive?
>

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot
BRF FOF; Guilde of St. Lawrence


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From: Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
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I just have to share this.

Go to fabricks and then to embroidered borders.
They are so beautiful
http://www.hansson-silks.co.uk/catalogue.html

Greetings,
        Deredere


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Oh, THAT guy! blech! ptui!
Thanks for refreshing my memory, though....
--sue

Lee Thompson-Herbert wrote:
> 
> >Okay, now, I'm quite aware of who Paisley is, but who's Fred Phelps?
> 
> A fundamentalist preacher who likes to picket funerals of AIDS victims
> with charming signs like "GOD HATES FAGS."  Worse, he gets his grandkids
> to carry the signs on the reasoning that no one would argue with 6 and 7
> year olds.  A thoroughly disgusting man.
> 
> --Lee
> [if you have a strong stomach, read the story of his son:
> http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/michael_haggerty/expose3.htm ]
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 09:27:49 -0400 (EDT)
From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Embroidered borders 
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Groan!  WANT!

Drea


On Tue, 29 Jul 2003, Deredere Galbraith wrote:

> I just have to share this.
>
> Go to fabricks and then to embroidered borders.
> They are so beautiful
> http://www.hansson-silks.co.uk/catalogue.html
>
> Greetings,
>         Deredere
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Embroidered borders 
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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They are actually very nice for real. Been to Hansson's a few times, lovely
borders, though frankly I would not use them for really authentic stuff, while
they are super lovely they look like Indian modern day bridal embroidery,which
they are.
However... WANT for some modern clothes!

Nicole
 
--- Drea Leed <drea@nospam> wrote: > Groan!  WANT!
> 
> Drea
> 
> 
> On Tue, 29 Jul 2003, Deredere Galbraith wrote:
> 
> > I just have to share this.
> >
> > Go to fabricks and then to embroidered borders.
> > They are so beautiful
> > http://www.hansson-silks.co.uk/catalogue.html
> >
> > Greetings,
> >         Deredere
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

=====
Men Die. Cattle Die. Word-Fame Lives Forever.   ~ Old Norse Aphorism

Email: nicole@kipar.org
URL: http://www.kipar.org

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Hello,
Here is my report of my visit to Sweden and the Gustavian Society "Gustafs
Skl"
It was unforgetable beautifull, sigh wished it could go on
forever.............

Pictures on www.my-drewscostumes.dk if you click on the link Grande Fete a
la Nature. But it is only half the pictures, more to come later.

The swedish society Gustafs Skl invited their members to celebrate their
10th. anaversary with a Grande Fte a la Nature on 26th of july.
It was to be held at the Ecco Temple in the beautifull Haga Park in
Stockholm.
I had to travel by train for 7 hours to get to Stockholm, and it was my
first visit in joining the Gustavian Society there, although i have ben a
member for a coupple of years now.
I was full of excitement to come, but i was also a little conscerned if the
weather would be nice. I did not know anything about the Ekko Temple, and i
thoaght that it wa just a little garden pavillion. If it was going to be
rain, how would there be space enough for the 80 people who was going to
come?
I was going to visit Kathleen Newman, and she and i had ben invited to come
to Camilla Blum's apartment in the city for a glass of wine, before we went
on to the party.
Camilla has a charming gustavian apartment and it was quite in the style of
the 18th. century when we came fully dressed there to entertain the ladies
in getting dressed.
Marie Weinefalck was also there getting dressed in her new white gustavian
court dress. It was absolutely beautifull, i had never seen that style
before.
We had a wonderfull time in Camilla's apartment before we took a carriage to
the park.
Haga Park was created in the time of Gustaf III and made in the new romantic
style inspired by the english gardens.
But let me tell you here, that my consern about the weather was blessed. It
was fine sunshine and very hot temperature.
The Ekko Temple was huge. It was told me that Fustaf III had made this
temple for himself and his court to take his dinners here in the summertime.
It was painted in beautifull colours. Inside the ceiling was painted sky
blue, so that it gave you the impression that it was the sky you looked at
when you looked up.
We were introduced to the other members who had come. Let me tell you that i
was very impressed by their clothes, they were so beautifull.This you will
notice, when you see the pictures i took there. ( I love the swedish style,
perhaps because i am a scandinavian myself.)
One of the best things of the party was a long walk trough the park, with
small events under the way. We looked at some enchanted tableaus. The first
was the swedish "Creature" - "Ncken" wich is an unnatural beast living in
the lake. (it was a troll, naked playing his violin)
The next event was a lady performing a court danse from Louis XIV's court.
She did her performing in another beautifull garden temple, wich name i alas
has forgotten..
As it was a long walk, and it was hot i can tell you, the society had
provided servants to bring lovely cold drinks of "Brndvin" wich is some
spirits with different fruit tastes. Very lovely, i tasted all of them :-)
Some other events on the way was song and music played on a lute with
Bellman songs, - another performance with a danse with klapper trees, - some
other mytological figures, and a witch who told us fortune tales.

After the long walk, people came back to the Ekko Temple where we spread out
our blankets and enjoyed cold drinks.
The dinner was held inside the temple, where they had made beautifull tables
with candlelights. A large table was full of tasty lovely dishes, you could
pick anything you liked, including some wonderfull deserts and coffe after
the dinner.
During the dinner, there was lovely entertaintment with Bellman songs.
Just before midnigt, crayfish was served with "brndvin"

It was a lovely lovely day and evening. I will never forget it, and i would
really recomend Lumieres members to come and visit your brothers and sisters
in the spirit in the beautifull green land of Sweden, when they invite for a
party next time.............

N:B finally the last thing! --- A strange thing happened arround midnight!
Suddently there was a light in the bedchamber of Gustaf III at the Haga
Pallace. And some of the members told us, that they had seen the shadow of
the king in the window.
Could this have ben the kings ghost that wanted to tell us that he
apreciated our party?
I am sure it was.








Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/








Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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Subject: =?iso-8859-1?Q?RE:_=5Bh-cost=5D__Frande_F=EAte_a_la_Nature?=
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Lovely pictures Bjarne!  I loved the fellow playing by the lake...we
American's are so uptight about stuff like that! It just looked so tranquil
and 'right' for your party.  

Sg


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I am so jealous that there are not such events where I live. It looked like
a wonderful event and everyone looked lovely!

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2003 11:27 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Frande Fte a la Nature


> Hello,
> Here is my report of my visit to Sweden and the Gustavian Society "Gustafs
> Skl"
> It was unforgetable beautifull, sigh wished it could go on
> forever.............
>
> Pictures on www.my-drewscostumes.dk if you click on the link Grande Fete a
> la Nature. But it is only half the pictures, more to come later.
>
> The swedish society Gustafs Skl invited their members to celebrate their
> 10th. anaversary with a Grande Fte a la Nature on 26th of july.
> It was to be held at the Ecco Temple in the beautifull Haga Park in
> Stockholm.
> I had to travel by train for 7 hours to get to Stockholm, and it was my
> first visit in joining the Gustavian Society there, although i have ben a
> member for a coupple of years now.
> I was full of excitement to come, but i was also a little conscerned if
the
> weather would be nice. I did not know anything about the Ekko Temple, and
i
> thoaght that it wa just a little garden pavillion. If it was going to be
> rain, how would there be space enough for the 80 people who was going to
> come?
> I was going to visit Kathleen Newman, and she and i had ben invited to
come
> to Camilla Blum's apartment in the city for a glass of wine, before we
went
> on to the party.
> Camilla has a charming gustavian apartment and it was quite in the style
of
> the 18th. century when we came fully dressed there to entertain the ladies
> in getting dressed.
> Marie Weinefalck was also there getting dressed in her new white gustavian
> court dress. It was absolutely beautifull, i had never seen that style
> before.
> We had a wonderfull time in Camilla's apartment before we took a carriage
to
> the park.
> Haga Park was created in the time of Gustaf III and made in the new
romantic
> style inspired by the english gardens.
> But let me tell you here, that my consern about the weather was blessed.
It
> was fine sunshine and very hot temperature.
> The Ekko Temple was huge. It was told me that Fustaf III had made this
> temple for himself and his court to take his dinners here in the
summertime.
> It was painted in beautifull colours. Inside the ceiling was painted sky
> blue, so that it gave you the impression that it was the sky you looked at
> when you looked up.
> We were introduced to the other members who had come. Let me tell you that
i
> was very impressed by their clothes, they were so beautifull.This you will
> notice, when you see the pictures i took there. ( I love the swedish
style,
> perhaps because i am a scandinavian myself.)
> One of the best things of the party was a long walk trough the park, with
> small events under the way. We looked at some enchanted tableaus. The
first
> was the swedish "Creature" - "Ncken" wich is an unnatural beast living in
> the lake. (it was a troll, naked playing his violin)
> The next event was a lady performing a court danse from Louis XIV's court.
> She did her performing in another beautifull garden temple, wich name i
alas
> has forgotten..
> As it was a long walk, and it was hot i can tell you, the society had
> provided servants to bring lovely cold drinks of "Brndvin" wich is some
> spirits with different fruit tastes. Very lovely, i tasted all of them :-)
> Some other events on the way was song and music played on a lute with
> Bellman songs, - another performance with a danse with klapper trees, -
some
> other mytological figures, and a witch who told us fortune tales.
>
> After the long walk, people came back to the Ekko Temple where we spread
out
> our blankets and enjoyed cold drinks.
> The dinner was held inside the temple, where they had made beautifull
tables
> with candlelights. A large table was full of tasty lovely dishes, you
could
> pick anything you liked, including some wonderfull deserts and coffe after
> the dinner.
> During the dinner, there was lovely entertaintment with Bellman songs.
> Just before midnigt, crayfish was served with "brndvin"
>
> It was a lovely lovely day and evening. I will never forget it, and i
would
> really recomend Lumieres members to come and visit your brothers and
sisters
> in the spirit in the beautifull green land of Sweden, when they invite for
a
> party next time.............
>
> N:B finally the last thing! --- A strange thing happened arround midnight!
> Suddently there was a light in the bedchamber of Gustaf III at the Haga
> Pallace. And some of the members told us, that they had seen the shadow of
> the king in the window.
> Could this have ben the kings ghost that wanted to tell us that he
> apreciated our party?
> I am sure it was.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>

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If I see a doll carrying an h, I am pretty sure that it will be 
unmistakable.  Hmmm, now I want to make a doll to carry my h.  Oh well, all 
my partially finished dolls are in Sacramento and I am already in LA.  I 
guess you don't have to worry about me copying you. Maryann

At 01:57 AM 7/26/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>And is it ok if I let the doll on my shoulder carry my H for me?


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Oh. My. Gawd....
--sue, grabbing a drool rag before she shorts out her keyboard...

Deredere Galbraith wrote:
> 
> I just have to share this.
> 
> Go to fabricks and then to embroidered borders.
> They are so beautiful
> http://www.hansson-silks.co.uk/catalogue.html
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Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 15:13:34 -0500
From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Williamsburg, Folger Elizabeth I exhibit, DC
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Greetings to All

First, my thanks to all who sent information regarding the clothing 
exhibit at Colonial Williamsburg.  I recommend it to anyone who will be 
in the area.  It was very well-done, and there was a wealth of 
information for the scholar as well as clarity for the general public. 
The exhibit is arranged more by theme than chronologically, though there 
is a fairly clear chronology throughout.  I spent a rather large 
proportion of my day at Williamsburg drooling over this exhibit.
http://www.history.org/visit/eventsAndExhibits/calendar/index.cfm?showThisEvent=14081

If you're going to Colonial Williamsburg, you'll probably be going 
through Richmond, VA, where you should visit Agecroft Hall, which is a 
15th/16th/17th c. (it was expanded several times) manor house that was 
moved over from England in the 1920s.  It has been substantially 
reconfigured, so that the original arrangement of rooms is nowhere in 
evidence, but they have done a fairly good job of decorating several 
rooms "in the style of" the 16th and early 17th centuries. There are 
some very nice period items, including a painted four-post bed with sea 
monsters, mustachioed angels and such on it and several nice portraits. 
  Agecroft also has well-done gardens (though I'm certainly no expert on 
that).  http://www.agecrofthall.com/

Next door to Agecroft Hall is Virginia House, which I didn't have time 
to see, but which is apparently a house made from pieces of an English 
priory (15th/16th c?).  I have no idea what is inside it, but it is open 
for tours.

After Richmond, I went to Washington DC and visited the Elizabeth I 
exhibit at the Folger, which is very impressive.  There's a lovely 
catalog for $40, which I'm sure is in their online store.  On display 
are several items of interest to costumers, including six figures which 
are supposed to be Irish people of different social levels (male and 
female, rustica, plebeia, nobilia) from the VERY late 16th or possibly 
early 17th century.  Unfortunately, they are largely muffled in cloaks, 
but they are some of the few images of (possibly) 16th-c. Irish that I 
know of.
http://www.folger.edu/Home_02B.html
http://www.folger.edu/public/exhibit/current.asp

If you're in DC anyway, check out the west wing of the National Gallery, 
which has some great 16th-century Italian and German portraits (mostly 
Italian right now, as the German galleries are being renovated).  Most 
of them can be found in books, but seeing the details up close is not to 
be missed.  Unfortunately, the National Portrait Gallery is closed until 
2006.  Deadly bookstore on the lower concourse between the west wing and 
the east wing...
http://www.nga.gov/

Also in DC is the Textile Museum, which currently has a display of 
lovely Andalusian rugs from the 15th and 16th centuries.  There's a 
clear progression of design, and some of them have heraldry.  Another 
floor has a well-done exhibit on various textile production methods, 
including weaving, knotting, various types of dyeing, etc.  This one is 
good for kids, as it has several interactive parts.  By the way, they 
have an amazing bookstore for textile texts--if there's something 
specific you're looking for, you might contact them.
http://www.textilemuseum.org/
http://www.textilemuseum.org/exhibitions/current.htm

The Smithsonian Museum of African Art currently has a Moroccan textiles 
display that is mouth-watering.  There are little proximity meters that 
set off a recorded message saying "please do not touch the exhibit" if 
you cross the invisible line.  My friend and I managed to set them off 
several times by getting our noses too close!
http://www.nmafa.si.edu/default.htm
http://www.nmafa.si.edu/exhibits/fabric/index.html

Cheers,
Melanie Schuessler
http://www.faucet.net/costume

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 2, Issue 456
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I've already packed a red sharpie and anyone who sees my red h and 
wants to borrow it is welcome to.

LynnD
Can't wait, can't wait, can't wait. We're going to LACMA and FIDM and 
the Getty, oh and shopping too!  Cal Millinery, here we come!


>If I see a doll carrying an h, I am pretty sure that it will be 
>unmistakable.  Hmmm, now I want to make a doll to carry my h.  Oh 
>well, all my partially finished dolls are in Sacramento and I am 
>already in LA.  I guess you don't have to worry about me copying 
>you. Maryann
>
>At 01:57 AM 7/26/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>>And is it ok if I let the doll on my shoulder carry my H for me?
>
>
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Kate:

I don't want to start the Reformation all over again! So let's see how I can
explain it ...

The reason I got angry at Starkey's statement is because it was a swipe at
the church and a gross generalization at the same time. Either one I could
brush off but not both at the same time, especially on a purportedly
educational program.

To me, it's as ignorant a statement as "Corsets were painful symbols of male
domination, which women were supposed to accept with blind obedience." We'd
all have a good go at that one!

It's true that at the time the church did not allow vernacular translations
of the Bible. But the rule had been around for centuries, it was not new,
and like everything else it had complex reasons -- some of them political,
some of them religious, and some of them just plain practical. The Bible,
remember, is not one book but a collection of many books. The sheer task of
translating all of them was and is immense -- not to mention checking that
each of the translations of each of the book was faithful to the Latin
originals (they weren't going back to the Greek and Hebrew yet). Father Knox
took decades to do his English translation in the early twentieth century,
and today's translations (which are always being revised) are done by whole
teams of scholars. One language meant one authorized text and venacular
translations meant many.

And as far as allowing laity to read the Bible -- laity were always allowed
to read the Bible, if they could get one. The reason psalters and books of
hours were so wildly popular was that rich laity could actually afford to
have them. Hand-copied Bibles were huge and fabulously expensive. Printing
changed all that and made the Bible accessible not just to large numbers of
people, but also to large numbers of people who couldn't read Latin. All
educated people in the Middle Ages could read Latin, but by the time of the
Reformation many people could read, but could only read their native
languages. So much of the furor over printed vernacular versions of the
Bible was about technology and education outstripping the way things had
been done for centuries.

I'm not arguing that the Catholic Church didn't want people to accept its
teachings; obviously it did. But that's hardly a sinister thing. We had the
Reformation and now EVERY church wants everyone to accept its teachings, and
no one gets upset over that. It's just plain insulting to say that "the
Catholic Church wanted everyone to follow its teachings with blind
obedience." And it's bad history to boot. As I said before, if that's an
example of his scholarship, then I'l stick with other historians.

Gail Finke




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Yes, several people were executed for English translations of the Bible, but
not ONLY for that. You have to remember that religious and secular
governments overlapped for much of the middle ages, part of which caused the
Reformation in the first place. Nearly every issue theology had a political
ramification -- there was no separation of church and state. It's very
complex, and it doesn't help anyone understand the time -- which, after all,
is the root of many relgious and political problems in our own day -- to
simplify these issues.

Costume content: Henry VIII, his daughters, Luther, Calvin, Jan Huus, et al
-- wore clothes

Gail Finke

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: bible comment
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> The reason I got angry at Starkey's statement is because it was a 
> swipe at
> the church and a gross generalization at the same time. Either one I 
> could
> brush off but not both at the same time, especially on a purportedly
> educational program.

This kind of explains my general irritation with Starkey, actually.  To 
me, it seems as though these educational documentaries he narrates are 
focused on hyping history, as though the general 21st century audience 
would find anything that didn't deal with sex and deceit too dull.  So, 
he plays up the salacious stuff, particularly anything sexual.  I 
caught the last three Queens episode and the lead-in on Katherine Parr 
was something to the effect of "A saintly woman on the outside, but on 
the inside she was consumed by raging hormones."  Yeah, he actually 
used the term "raging hormones".  In the Elizabeth documentary, he 
spent some time discussing the "likelihood" that Elizabeth was raped by 
her step-father while in Katherine's custody and that was the reason 
she was so leery of marriage.  I think that's just going a bit too far 
on the information we have available of Elizabeth's life at Chelsea 
under the care of Katherine.

Anyway, that's just my take on it.  And the costumes in the Six Wives 
were touchy.  Some were rather good (Katherine Howard's pretty little 
brocade number) and some were just tacky (what was up with the weird 
pleating deal on several of those bodices???) and the hats were mostly 
aiming for the right look, but clearly not designed with any realistic 
proportions in mind.

Sarah

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: bible comment
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 20:53:49 -0400
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On Tuesday 29 July 2003 05:55 pm, Sarah wrote:
> > The reason I got angry at Starkey's statement is because it was a
> > swipe at
> > the church and a gross generalization at the same time. Either one I
> > could
> > brush off but not both at the same time, especially on a purportedly
> > educational program.
>
> This kind of explains my general irritation with Starkey, actually.  To
> me, it seems as though these educational documentaries he narrates are
> focused on hyping history, as though the general 21st century audience
> would find anything that didn't deal with sex and deceit too dull.  So,
> he plays up the salacious stuff, particularly anything sexual.  

Starkey tends to annoy me, too, mostly because he's terribly opinionated and 
flaunts it instead of sidelining it.

Although I haven't seen any of his documentaries, I'll point out in his 
defense that there is a fair amount in English history in the 16th century 
that deals with sex, and deceit--both in combination and separately.  :-)  
That doesn't justify giving sex and deceit disproportionate roles, though.



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

“No man is rich enough to buy back his 
past.”  Oscar Wilde

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Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 00:41:43 -0400
From: Ron Carnegie <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Williamsburg, Folger Elizabeth I exhibit, DC
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melanie> First, my thanks to all who sent information regarding the clothing 
melanie> exhibit at Colonial Williamsburg.  I recommend it to anyone who will be 
melanie> in the area.  It was very well-done, and there was a wealth of 
melanie> information for the scholar as well as clarity for the general public. 
melanie> The exhibit is arranged more by theme than chronologically, though there 
melanie> is a fairly clear chronology throughout.  I spent a rather large 
melanie> proportion of my day at Williamsburg drooling over this exhibit.

--    I am glad you enjoyed your visit.  It is to bad I didn't get to
meet you. :(

Ron Carnegie <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Williamsburg, Folger Elizabeth I exhibit, DC
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Yes, Ron and I are a little insulted.... you know, Ron and I are the state
costume host and hostess of Virginia.  Not a word that you were coming!!!!

Ron... Sharon (Shashy) is coming to Williamsburg near the end of August.  So
we will have to plan a get-together.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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From: Ron Carnegie <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Williamsburg, Folger Elizabeth I exhibit, DC
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penny> Yes, Ron and I are a little insulted.... you know, Ron and I are the state
penny> costume host and hostess of Virginia.  Not a word that you were coming!!!!


   Well to be fair, I did know she was coming.  She was having trouble
deciding between CW and Jamestowne.  I did want her (and anyone else one
the list) to know about the Language of Costume exhibit.  Of course if I
had known she was going to Richmond I would have suggested the Valentine.
Agecroft IS fun however!

Cheers,
-- 
Ron Carnegie <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victoria gone???!!
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Phoebe,

Did anyone answer your question about Victoria magazine?  I love the
magazine too.  I hope it hasn't gone down the drain.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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Ron,

I have been as far as the parking lot of Agecroft... my friend's child
started throwing a temper tantrum and we decided against it.  I do plan on
going to Agecroft and the VA House in August when Susan comes to visit.
Agecroft and the VA House were on American's Castles this past weekend.  I
remember when they filmed this episode.  I was doing my internship at the
Valentine.  They also were filming the Dooley Mansion at Maymonth the same
week. I love the swam bedroom and front porch in the mansion. Have you seen
it Ron?

Jennie Chancey is going to the CW exhibit on August 9th and invited me.  Are
you open that day?

My personal favorite about your area is taking the ferry across the James
River.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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From: "Beth" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victoria gone?????!!!!!
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 02:09:45 -0400
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I read about this a while ago, if I could remember where I would share the
article. Essentially falling subscription rates did it in.
Take a look at the first couple of issues then compare them to recent ones.
The older ones had many expensive things to fall in love, mixed with things
those of us on a budget could still do. The recipes called for "normal
people" ingredients, places to visit were mostly domestic. I stopped
subscribing a few years ago. I simply couldn't connect with it anymore. I
don't vacation in Europe, I don't buy truffle oil, and I couldn't afford a
thing they showed. What I really don't understand is why they didn't ask
people who dropped their subscriptions why they were leaving. They let it
die without the slightest battle.

Beth

----- Original Message -----
From: "prairielark" <prairielark@herspace.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2003 8:57 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Victoria gone?????!!!!!


> I received a notice stating my subscription to Victoria Magazine (Hearst
Publications) has been shifted to another publication as this wonderful mag
has ceased publication with the June 2003 issue.  How can this be?  Does
anyone have a clue what happened?  I thought this was the greatest magazine
ever printed and have each and every issue since the first quarterly one
printed in the fall of 1985.  Please if anyone knows what happened I would
like to hear it.
>
> Devastated,
> Phoebe
>
> the prairie lark
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> Herspace.com
> [[feed your heart * fuel your art]]
> http://www.herspace.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: [h-cost] Ragtime
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For anyone in the Richmond, Virginia area during the next two weekends, my
son is working on the production of Ragtime at Dogwood Dell amphitheater.
The show is Fri-Sun nights.  The admission is free as part of the Arts in
the Park series.  If anyone needs directions, please feel free to write me.
The Dell is near the Museum of Fine Arts on the Boulevard.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 17:00:22 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dawn Jacobson <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume College
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At 03:41 PM 7/28/2003 +0000, you wrote:


>I will be at C.C. but will not be attending the Gala.  However, I will 
>have a red H on my name tag so I hope to meet you all in person.
>
>I am not against a little get together.  Maybe one of the less busy 
>evenings we can meet for dinner or something???
>
>Maybe we can have the cool kids lunch table where we all wear red H's and 
>matching bomber jackets.  We can be the H-Cost Crew...
>
>Anyway, see you all in a couple of days!!!  This is going to be so much 
>fun!!!!!!!!!!!
>
>:) jessica

How about Friday night after everyone gets back from their various field 
trips, but before heading down to CGW's little "do"? Either that or Sunday 
night, although those people that are leaving on Sunday would not be able 
to make it.

News for those coming from the Bay Area: it's cooler in LA right now than 
SF. Go figure. ;-D I hope it stays that way.

Dawn

Dawn Jacobson
Temporarily in Simi Valley, CA

Clothes are the costumes we wear every day. 
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From: Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victoria gone?????!!!!!
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Victoria lost me a few years ago for that very reason--I loved the first
few years, was a subscribed since the second issue.  It had much more
content then, not just pretty pictures.  I remember a wonderful article
on garnet jewelry, and on my "not-yet" friend John Burrows reproduction
carpets.

It's sad.  I am looking forward to the new Vintage Fashions magazine.  I
wonder what it will be like.

Katy

On Wed, 30 Jul 2003 martyr@gti.net wrote:

>Yes, the newly formatted 'Victoria' magazine was nothing at all like the
>initial version. The old version was absolutely *sublime*. The photography was
>always amazing & every issue was filled with neat stuff- antiques, vintage &
>vintage inspired fashion & profiles of women entrepreneurs in creative fields
>with a 'Victoria'-inspired focus; interior designers, textile designers- I
>remember one issue featuring a modern-day bobbin lace designer, fashion
>designers with a vintage aesthetic. They even published a book called "The
>Business of Bliss", a compilation of the profiles featured in the magazine &
>sponsored seminars for women in business based on the book.  They published
>other beautiful books too, such as "Designers in Residence" & "The Charms of
>Tea". That was then...
>When it changed format, I remember thinking it wouldn't be around much longer
>because it was just nothing at all like the old version & assumed all its
>devoted readers were equally as disappointed as I was with it. Definitely not
>surprised subscription rates fell nor that it is ceasing publication. In my
>mind, it already ended when the format changed.
>R.I.P. Victoria.
>Deb R.
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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Ron Carnegie wrote:
 > --    I am glad you enjoyed your visit.  It is to bad I didn't get to
 >  meet you. :(

Alas--perhaps next time.  I wasn't sure where to look for you, and I
didn't want to interfere with your work.  I very well might come back to 
CW, as I get a discount for being an educator (and that was a very nice 
surprise)!

Penny Ladnier wrote:
 > Yes, Ron and I are a little insulted.... you know, Ron and I are the
 > state costume host and hostess of Virginia.  Not a word that you were
 > coming!!!!

Penny, I didn't realize you were in Richmond!  That's too bad.  I did
send mail to the list about my trip to Williamsburg.  Next time I come
I'll mail you personally!

Ron Carnegie wrote:
 > Well to be fair, I did know she was coming.  She was having trouble
 > deciding between CW and Jamestowne.  I did want her (and anyone else
 > one the list) to know about the Language of Costume exhibit.  Of
 > course if I had known she was going to Richmond I would have
 > suggested the Valentine.

I wish I'd known the Valentine was there--it didn't even occur to me.
 From where I am, you pretty much have to go to Richmond to get to
Williamsburg.  Next time I get to Richmond, I'll definitely have a look. 
   AND have lunch with Penny!

Next time,
Melanie Schuessler
http://www.faucet.net/costume

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I'll print out some stickers that say H-Costume -- I recall having
very little luck getting any marks to stay on those slick name tags!

please look for the stickers!


On Monday, July 28, 2003, at 05:00 PM, Dawn Jacobson wrote:

> At 03:41 PM 7/28/2003 +0000, you wrote:
>
>
>> I will be at C.C. but will not be attending the Gala.  However, I 
>> will have a red H on my name tag so I hope to meet you all in person.
>>
>> I am not against a little get together.  Maybe one of the less busy 
>> evenings we can meet for dinner or something???
>>
>> Maybe we can have the cool kids lunch table where we all wear red H's 
>> and matching bomber jackets.  We can be the H-Cost Crew...
>>
>> Anyway, see you all in a couple of days!!!  This is going to be so 
>> much fun!!!!!!!!!!!
>>
>> :) jessica
>
> How about Friday night after everyone gets back from their various 
> field trips, but before heading down to CGW's little "do"? Either that 
> or Sunday night, although those people that are leaving on Sunday 
> would not be able to make it.
>
> News for those coming from the Bay Area: it's cooler in LA right now 
> than SF. Go figure. ;-D I hope it stays that way.
>
> Dawn
>
> Dawn Jacobson
> Temporarily in Simi Valley, CA
>
> Clothes are the costumes we wear every day. 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: bible comment
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At 15:52 30/07/2003, you wrote:
>Sorry I missed the original post.  I read a novel many years ago with an
>interesting take on Henry VIII's mindset--who knows if it was really true, 
>though.
>  Anyway, Katherine was his brother, Arthur's  (was it?) widow.  They had
>married young, so the marriage was never consummated.  But it would have been
>considered incestuous, so Henry asked for, and got, approval from the 
>Pope.  But,
>according to this author, he became convinced that the reason Katherine
>couldn't give him the male heir he wanted was the marriage was incestuous, 
>even with
>the Pope's approval.  Of course, it was mainly political, I'm sure.
>But, one of history's great ironies--one of the unwanted daughters became one
>of England's greatest monarchs ever.

Yes, Henry was a religious man and had to persuade himself that his 
marriage to Katherine was wrong in the eyes of the Church. If Katherine's 
marriage to Arthur had been consummated, then the marriage to Henry would 
be considered incestuous, and (here's the rub) her children illegitimate. 
This seems to be the main reason Katherine fought so hard against the 
annulment. Henry never got approval from the Pope, not because of religious 
reasons, but because Katherine's nephew, the Emperor Charles, was in 
control of Rome at the time.
Elizabeth wasn't unwanted, but she was the wrong sex. England had never had 
a female monarch, and in the difficult climate of the time, it wasn't the 
right time to try. Elizabeth was special, but that's with the advantage of 
hindsight.


Lynne Connolly, GSOLFOT
Award winning Historical Romance author.
The Richard and Rose books from <http://www.novelbooksinc.com/>Novelbooks Inc.
YORKSHIRE, DEVONSHIRE and now VENICE
VANESSA from <http://www.awe-struck.net/>Awe-Struck books
http://www.geocities.com/lynne_connolly2001/  

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: bible comment
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At 01:53 30/07/2003, you wrote:
>Starkey tends to annoy me, too, mostly because he's terribly opinionated and
>flaunts it instead of sidelining it.

It annoyed me that he took the age old populist view that Henry divorced 
Katherine and married Anne for his own venal pleasure. He did mention, in 
passing, the need for an heir, but if Henry had merely wanted sex, he could 
have had it (and did). He was an intelligent man and a statesman, believing 
in the new realpolitik as disseminated by Machiavelli via Thomas Cromwell 
and the new writing Anne encouraged him to read.
He needed that heir. After a hundred years of conflict he and his father 
before him were just beginning to get the country on an even keel. Henry 
was extravagant, but there was a reason behind it as well as, probably, 
some personal enjoyment. England had to be seen as strong, a player, 
especially when the Reformation had turned Europe upside down.
It was only when Katherine of Aragon reached the menopause that Henry 
looked elsewhere for a wife, a mother for a legitimate heir. Katherine 
never understood this, never accepted his offer of a nunnery for her. She 
had Mary to look after, but England had never had a Queen, and now, most 
people thought, was not the time to start. Anne Boleyn saw the opening, but 
the persuasion wasn't all on her side.
The decision to marry Anne Boleyn was political, purely political, and 
populist historians who promote the cult of personality can't or won't see 
beyond that. Either that or they think that the stupid public can't 
possibly understand or care.


Lynne Connolly, GSOLFOT
Award winning Historical Romance author.
The Richard and Rose books from <http://www.novelbooksinc.com/>Novelbooks Inc.
YORKSHIRE, DEVONSHIRE and now VENICE
VANESSA from <http://www.awe-struck.net/>Awe-Struck books
http://www.geocities.com/lynne_connolly2001/  

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dawn Jacobson <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: bible comment
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At 04:51 PM 7/30/2003 +0100, Lynne Connelly wrote:
>Elizabeth wasn't unwanted, but she was the wrong sex. England had never 
>had a female monarch, and in the difficult climate of the time, it wasn't 
>the right time to try. Elizabeth was special, but that's with the 
>advantage of hindsight.

Salic Law excludes women from inheriting a throne. This was the reason that 
the Empress Maud (aka Queen Matilda) was passed over in favor of King 
Stephen. BTW, Maud was the first queen of England, but she was on the 
throne for a very short time, and there was a civil war going on during her 
entire reign. This was undoubtedly the reason why there was little interest 
in having a daughter declared the heir--very few people in the 16th century 
had a good opinion of Maud.

Dawn

Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are the costumes we wear every day. 
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Thanks for the elucidation, Gail. I see where you are coming from now.
David Starkey is well known in the UK for being deliberately
contentious.

> You have to remember that religious and secular governments
overlapped >for much of the middle ages, part of which caused the
Reformation in the >first place. Nearly every issue theology had a
political ramification -- there >was no separation of church and state.

Not just in the Middle Ages, but well into the 17th century too. As I
mentioned in an earlier post, newly literate people's reading of the
Bible did indeed lead to all sorts of religious/political movements,
especially at the time of our Civil Wars, some of which eventually
settled down into the mainstream Nonconformist churches we have today.
(Before someone picks me up on that, yes, I know Methodism was a later
development.) I get just as annoyed when people make inaccurate
generalisations about the early 17th century situation.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victoria gone?????!!!!!
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Yes, the newly formatted 'Victoria' magazine was nothing at all like the
initial version. The old version was absolutely *sublime*. The photography was
always amazing & every issue was filled with neat stuff- antiques, vintage &
vintage inspired fashion & profiles of women entrepreneurs in creative fields
with a 'Victoria'-inspired focus; interior designers, textile designers- I
remember one issue featuring a modern-day bobbin lace designer, fashion
designers with a vintage aesthetic. They even published a book called "The
Business of Bliss", a compilation of the profiles featured in the magazine &
sponsored seminars for women in business based on the book.  They published
other beautiful books too, such as "Designers in Residence" & "The Charms of
Tea". That was then...
When it changed format, I remember thinking it wouldn't be around much longer
because it was just nothing at all like the old version & assumed all its
devoted readers were equally as disappointed as I was with it. Definitely not
surprised subscription rates fell nor that it is ceasing publication. In my
mind, it already ended when the format changed.
R.I.P. Victoria.
Deb R.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: bible comment
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In a message dated 7/30/2003 7:28:42 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
lynneconnolly@ntlworld.com writes:

> It was only when Katherine of Aragon reached the menopause that Henry 
> looked elsewhere for a wife, a mother for a legitimate heir. Katherine 
> never understood this, never accepted his offer of a nunnery for her. 

Sorry I missed the original post.  I read a novel many years ago with an 
interesting take on Henry VIII's mindset--who knows if it was really true, though. 
 Anyway, Katherine was his brother, Arthur's  (was it?) widow.  They had 
married young, so the marriage was never consummated.  But it would have been 
considered incestuous, so Henry asked for, and got, approval from the Pope.  But, 
according to this author, he became convinced that the reason Katherine 
couldn't give him the male heir he wanted was the marriage was incestuous, even with 
the Pope's approval.  Of course, it was mainly political, I'm sure. 
But, one of history's great ironies--one of the unwanted daughters became one 
of England's greatest monarchs ever.
Ann Wass
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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] UK event Stoneleigh, Aug. 9-10
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Any UK members going to Stoneleigh, English Heritage's replacement for
Kirby Hall? Our music group are not attending as there will be no indoor
venue, but I shall be there as a member of the Sealed Knot Living
History Group.


Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 2, Issue 456
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At 12:27 PM 7/29/2003 -0700, Lynn D wrote:
>I've already packed a red sharpie and anyone who sees my red h and wants 
>to borrow it is welcome to.
>
>LynnD
>Can't wait, can't wait, can't wait. We're going to LACMA and FIDM and the 
>Getty, oh and shopping too!  Cal Millinery, here we come!

Cal Millinery was a disappointment the last time I was there (in April); 
they aren't carrying the really large hat boxes any more, and didn't have 
any felt hat blanks. I still managed to get buckram, millinery wire, and 
hat lacquer though.

For everybody that is coming the Costume College: If you have time and like 
French paintings, get yourself over the LACMA for the "French Masterworks" 
exhibition. They currently have 50-60 paintings from the Pushkin Museum on 
display ranging from a 1630 painting by Nicholas Poussin to 3 paintings by 
Matisse from 1912-14. I went yesterday--it's worth the time and trouble as 
they are all major-league paintings and this is their last exhibition 
before being returned to the Pushkin. Prices for adults are $17 during the 
week and $20 on the weekend, and include entry into the other parts of the 
museum. Also, all the textile and costume books are now in the little 
bookshop in the Ahmanson Building, right inside the door.

I'm going to try to squeeze in a visit to the Getty next week, to look at 
(IIRC) a Beuckelaer they have in their collection. And, of course, a trip 
to the Garment District--I need more linen. ;-)

Dawn


Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are the costumes we wear every day. 
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Dawn Jacobson wrote:

> Salic Law excludes women from inheriting a throne.

But according to Henry V, this law only applies to France, not England!

I saw the Starkey show and disliked him rather intensely just in the first 
few minutes.  He sounded like a tabloid journalist hyping everything.  

My 2 cents...

Nancy Stengel Ulmer
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: bible comment
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 12:57:18 -0400
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Dawn Jacobson" <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2003 12:13 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: bible comment


> Salic Law excludes women from inheriting a throne. This was the reason
that
> the Empress Maud (aka Queen Matilda) was passed over in favor of King
> Stephen. BTW, Maud was the first queen of England, but she was on the
> throne for a very short time, and there was a civil war going on during
her
> entire reign. This was undoubtedly the reason why there was little
interest
> in having a daughter declared the heir--very few people in the 16th
century
> had a good opinion of Maud.
>
> Dawn
>

I don't think the Salic Law was in the mind of Henry VIII at all. The Salic
Law came from Clovis and was a list of many laws regarding behavior (murder
etc). The part you mentioned was concerned with inheriting money and
property (wehrgeld) not thrones or offices. The laws were reformulated under
Charlemagne in the 9th century but were all but forgotten by the 13th
century because they had become part of the common laws. The law was used
with regard to the throne by the French in 1316 when the brother of the king
wished to take the throne rather than have it be given to his 6 year old
niece. There is no evidence that he attained the crown due to the Salic Law
rather than the desire to have a grown man on the throne rather than a 6
year old child. This law only seems to be invoked for convenience such as
when a foreign woman is in the succession or when the power structure of the
day wishes someone else to rule. The law isn't used in many cases when women
have inherited fiefs such as a duchy as mentioned in the Treaty of Guerande
which was inherited by a woman. I believe France is the only country to use
the Salic Law with reference to the throne until the 18th century.

I have heard that the Salic Law was invoked with regard to Matilda. However,
she did come to rule which seems to contradict that. She was extremely
unpopular with the people and the nobles as was her husband. Stephen beat
her in battle and came to the throne.

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Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 16:12:57 +0100 (BST)
From: =?iso-8859-1?q?N=20Kipar?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] UK event Stoneleigh, Aug. 9-10
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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 --- Kate M Bunting <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> wrote: > Any UK members going to
Stoneleigh, English Heritage's replacement for
> Kirby Hall? Our music group are not attending as there will be no indoor
> venue, but I shall be there as a member of the Sealed Knot Living
> History Group.

Ptooiee! No way!

Sorry to have to say this, but I would not for the life of me work for English
Heritage again after this appalling treatment at last year's Kirby, where it
became clear they apparently don't give a doodah about the hard working
re-enactors.

Actually, we are going this weekend to the Midlands show (Military Odyssey in
Lichfield, so to speak)

Real shame though that we won't meet again, Kate!

Nicole

=====
Men Die. Cattle Die. Word-Fame Lives Forever.   ~ Old Norse Aphorism

Email: nicole@kipar.org
URL: http://www.kipar.org

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Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 16:09:35 +0100
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Henry VIII, was Re: bible comment
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Yes, that was the official reason for the ending of the marriage
(usually termed a divorce, but surely an annulment, i.e. it was declared
never to have been valid?). Whether the marriage with Prince Arthur had
in fact been consummated is a matter for speculation; he was a sickly
boy.

>>>Sorry I missed the original post.  I read a novel many years ago
with an 
>interesting take on Henry VIII's mindset--who knows if it was really
true, >though. 
> Anyway, Katherine was his brother, Arthur's  (was it?) widow.  They
had 
>married young, so the marriage was never consummated.  But it would
>have been 
>considered incestuous, so Henry asked for, and got, approval from the
>Pope.  But, 
>according to this author, he became convinced that the reason
Katherine 
>couldn't give him the male heir he wanted was the marriage was
>incestuous, even with 
>the Pope's approval.  Of course, it was mainly political, I'm sure. 
>But, one of history's great ironies--one of the unwanted daughters
became >one of England's greatest monarchs ever.
Ann Wass
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 30 13:25:23 2003
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Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 07:58:18 -0700
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Subject: [h-cost] Anyone near Pasadena, CA?
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I was reading Dawn's note about her trip to the Getty, and started to wonder
if any of you was near Pasadena.  The Norton Simon Foundation has a
"Portrait of an unknown Lady" by Marcus Gheerhaerts the younger which I
would love to get a color picture of.  The Foundation will send me a slide
for $100, and I don't know if they allow any photography, but thought I
might ask....
 
Sg
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From: "Cynthia Abel" <brujne@creighton.edu>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Henry VIII, was Re: bible comment
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Actually, there was no contemporary evidence for Arthur being sickly(read
Starkey's "Six Wives" for a fuller background)and that his death was a total
shock to the royal family.  Neither was Henry VIII's illegitimate son, the
Duke of Richmond, or Edward VI. When Henry VIII wanted his divorce, the
question was if Arthur had been mature enough to consumate the marriage with
Katherine.  Arthur's illness was sudden, suprising, and certainly explains
in great part why Henry VII practically kept the younger Henry under lock
and key until the later's death. Arthur, not Henry, was Henry VII's pride
and joy; perhaps he saw too much of Edward IV in his younger son.

Cindy Abel
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2003 10:09 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Henry VIII, was Re: bible comment


> Yes, that was the official reason for the ending of the marriage
> (usually termed a divorce, but surely an annulment, i.e. it was declared
> never to have been valid?). Whether the marriage with Prince Arthur had
> in fact been consummated is a matter for speculation; he was a sickly
> boy.
>
> >>>Sorry I missed the original post.  I read a novel many years ago
> with an
> >interesting take on Henry VIII's mindset--who knows if it was really
> true, >though.
> > Anyway, Katherine was his brother, Arthur's  (was it?) widow.  They
> had
> >married young, so the marriage was never consummated.  But it would
> >have been
> >considered incestuous, so Henry asked for, and got, approval from the
> >Pope.  But,
> >according to this author, he became convinced that the reason
> Katherine
> >couldn't give him the male heir he wanted was the marriage was
> >incestuous, even with
> >the Pope's approval.  Of course, it was mainly political, I'm sure.
> >But, one of history's great ironies--one of the unwanted daughters
> became >one of England's greatest monarchs ever.
> Ann Wass
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> This email has been scanned for all viruses by the MessageLabs Email
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> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Kate Bunting
> Library, University of Derby
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: bible comment
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At 17:13 30/07/2003, you wrote:
>Salic Law excludes women from inheriting a throne.

Salic Law has never prevailed in England. While it is the basis of the 
later claim of the English monarchs to the French throne, it has never 
applied to the English succession. (Primogeniture is different). Salic Law 
was adopted by Charlemagne, but fell out of use and was only re-adopted by 
the French monarchy when it became expedient, in the fourteenth century. 
Also, salic law is the reason why Queen Victoria never became Elector of 
Hanover; but it didn't stop her becoming Queen of Great Britain.

>This was the reason that the Empress Maud (aka Queen Matilda) was passed 
>over in favor of King Stephen.
>  BTW, Maud was the first queen of England, but she was on the throne for 
> a very short time, and there was a civil war going on during her entire 
> reign. This was undoubtedly the reason why there was little interest in 
> having a daughter declared the heir--very few people in the 16th century 
> had a good opinion of Maud.

Matilda, or Maud, was never queen of England, although she should have been 
by right of descent. Stephen claimed the throne through female descent (his 
mother was William the Conqueror's daughter), and Maud's claim was 
superior, being the daughter of Henry I. However, Stephen prevailed mainly 
through force of arms. After his death Maud's son succeeded as Henry II. 
But the first ruling monarch who was female is Mary Tudor.


Lynne Connolly, GSOLFOT
Award winning Historical Romance author.
The Richard and Rose books from <http://www.novelbooksinc.com/>Novelbooks Inc.
YORKSHIRE, DEVONSHIRE and now VENICE
VANESSA from <http://www.awe-struck.net/>Awe-Struck books
http://www.geocities.com/lynne_connolly2001/  

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From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Henry VIII
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And don't forget, Catherine of Aragon was the daugher of Frederick and
Isabella of Spain. She wasn't a little nobody! Divorcing her (and since he
couldn't get an annulment -- in part because the Pope needed the staunchly
Catholic Spanish monarchy -- it had to be a divorce) was a risky political
move, but he really did need that boy heir. Or thought he did!

Whether he really convinced himself that the marriage was wrong is anyone's
guess. He was a very religious man, and could have convinced himself that
the lack of a male heir was a sign from God that the marriage was invalid. A
treatise he supposedly wrote (Thomas Moore might have actually done the
deed) led the Pope to call him "Defender of the Faith," a title he
ironically kept after he broke away and started his own church. The royalty
of England still use the title today. I've heard that Prince Charles wants
to change it to "Defender of Faith" -- very politically correct, I'm sure,
but Henry must be rolling in his grave!

But then, I'm sure Henry wouldn't recognize the Anglican church today as the
church he led, either. It's changed a lot.


Gail Finke

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From: "Cynthia Abel" <brujne@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Henry VIII and the succession
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Henry VIII certainly can't be blamed for wanting a male, and not a female
successor, in view of prior English history.  There had been enough problems
with some of the kings. Also having a female successor meant the danger of
England possibly becoming a vassal state of another country, like France or
Spain.  I believe this was the real fight that was going on with the "King's
Great Matter". You could also say the whole heir bit and Henry's image,
certainly influenced his later fashion. Henry had a valid point: just why
were other kings allowed by the Church to have marriages annulled and to
take other wives in search of that all-important male successor?

He had married his little sister Mary Rose off to Francois I's predecessor,
certainly in hopes of old Louis living long enough to father a male heir and
England getting France permanently that way.

Queen Katherine, on the other hand, with the example of her mother, Isabella
of Castile, certainly saw no problem with her only child Mary as ruler of
dinky little England.  Educated throughly, married to the right
guy(preferably to someone on her side of the family, aka Spain), she saw
Mary as certainly capable of ruling England. Mary's eventual succession,
marriage to Philip II, and if she had had a child, England's history would
have been quite different

Cindy Abel
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lynne Connolly" <lynneconnolly@ntlworld.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2003 12:35 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: bible comment


> At 17:13 30/07/2003, you wrote:
> >Salic Law excludes women from inheriting a throne.
>
> Salic Law has never prevailed in England. While it is the basis of the
> later claim of the English monarchs to the French throne, it has never
> applied to the English succession. (Primogeniture is different). Salic Law
> was adopted by Charlemagne, but fell out of use and was only re-adopted by
> the French monarchy when it became expedient, in the fourteenth century.
> Also, salic law is the reason why Queen Victoria never became Elector of
> Hanover; but it didn't stop her becoming Queen of Great Britain.
>
> >This was the reason that the Empress Maud (aka Queen Matilda) was passed
> >over in favor of King Stephen.
> >  BTW, Maud was the first queen of England, but she was on the throne for
> > a very short time, and there was a civil war going on during her entire
> > reign. This was undoubtedly the reason why there was little interest in
> > having a daughter declared the heir--very few people in the 16th century
> > had a good opinion of Maud.
>
> Matilda, or Maud, was never queen of England, although she should have
been
> by right of descent. Stephen claimed the throne through female descent
(his
> mother was William the Conqueror's daughter), and Maud's claim was
> superior, being the daughter of Henry I. However, Stephen prevailed mainly
> through force of arms. After his death Maud's son succeeded as Henry II.
> But the first ruling monarch who was female is Mary Tudor.
>
>
> Lynne Connolly, GSOLFOT
> Award winning Historical Romance author.
> The Richard and Rose books from <http://www.novelbooksinc.com/>Novelbooks
Inc.
> YORKSHIRE, DEVONSHIRE and now VENICE
> VANESSA from <http://www.awe-struck.net/>Awe-Struck books
> http://www.geocities.com/lynne_connolly2001/
>


----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----


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Subject: [h-cost] French Masterworks
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Dawn wrote:
> For everybody that is coming the Costume College: If you have time and like 
> French paintings, get yourself over the LACMA for the "French Masterworks" 
> exhibition. They currently have 50-60 paintings from the Pushkin Museum on 
> display ranging from a 1630 painting by Nicholas Poussin to 3 paintings by 
> Matisse from 1912-14. I went yesterday--it's worth the time and trouble as 
> they are all major-league paintings and this is their last exhibition 
> before being returned to the Pushkin. Prices for adults are $17 during the 
> week and $20 on the weekend, and include entry into the other parts of the 
> museum. Also, all the textile and costume books are now in the little 
> bookshop in the Ahmanson Building, right inside the door.

There's one in town here (Ottawa, Ontario, Canada) that's all 18th
century French artists.  It's entitled "Watteau, Chardin, Fragonard".
I'm fully intending to get there sometime before it closes, but I had
better get my act in gear I guess, if I want to see all those beautiful
sack-back gowns :)

K.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: bible comment
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Lynne wrote:
> Elizabeth wasn't unwanted, but she was the wrong sex. England had never had 
> a female monarch, and in the difficult climate of the time, it wasn't the 
> right time to try. Elizabeth was special, but that's with the advantage of 
> hindsight.

Hrm, you're not counting Matilda as a queen, I guess?  Nor Boadicaea?

;)

K.


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Yup. England wasn't under Salic Law at the time of the Tudors. Or before,
either.

And I totally agree with you re: Starkey. Waaaay too full of his personal
biases, and pompous enough to state them as fact. (Um, David, there's
this thing most historians use called "evidence"....)

Arlys, mundanely an MA in history

On Wed, 30 Jul 2003 12:34:08 EDT MaddNancy@aol.com writes:
> Dawn Jacobson wrote:
> 
> > Salic Law excludes women from inheriting a throne.
> 
> But according to Henry V, this law only applies to France, not 
> England!
> 
> I saw the Starkey show and disliked him rather intensely just in the 
> first 
> few minutes.  He sounded like a tabloid journalist hyping 
> everything.  
> 
> My 2 cents...
> 
> Nancy Stengel Ulmer
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Lynne Connolly <lynneconnolly@ntlworld.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: bible comment
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At 20:18 30/07/2003, you wrote:
>Hrm, you're not counting Matilda as a queen, I guess?  Nor Boadicaea?

Matilda was never Queen, and Boadicea was a queen consort, and only of the 
Iceni, a tribe in East Anglia.


Lynne Connolly, GSOLFOT
Award winning Historical Romance author.
The Richard and Rose books from <http://www.novelbooksinc.com/>Novelbooks Inc.
YORKSHIRE, DEVONSHIRE and now VENICE
VANESSA from <http://www.awe-struck.net/>Awe-Struck books
http://www.geocities.com/lynne_connolly2001/  

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Lynne Connolly <lynneconnolly@ntlworld.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Henry VIII
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At 19:01 30/07/2003, you wrote:
>But then, I'm sure Henry wouldn't recognize the Anglican church today as the
>church he led, either. It's changed a lot.


Henry was never an Anglican. He never left the Catholic church. He just 
denied the authority of the Pope (just!) Only during the reign of his son, 
Edward VI, was England declared a Protestant nation, and that didn't last long!


Lynne Connolly, GSOLFOT
Award winning Historical Romance author.
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YORKSHIRE, DEVONSHIRE and now VENICE
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jul 30 16:52:08 2003
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Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 13:49:01 -0700
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Henry VIII, was Re: bible comment
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> Actually, there was no contemporary evidence for Arthur being
> sickly(read Starkey's "Six Wives" for a fuller background)and that his
> death was a total shock to the royal family.  Neither was Henry VIII's
> illegitimate son, the Duke of Richmond, or Edward VI.

Actually, there is evidence that both Edward VI and the D of Richmond 
were sick toward the ends of their lives. Edward had a case of 
measles which lead to consumption. (Which was a common problem up 
until the treatment of TB changed to using antibiotics.) The Duke of 
Richmond also probably had TB. He certainly looked ill in the 
portrait done of him. Arthur was pretty healthy until he took sick at 
the end. 

 When Henry VIII
> wanted his divorce, the question was if Arthur had been mature enough
> to consumate the marriage with Katherine.  Arthur's illness was
> sudden, suprising, and certainly explains in great part why Henry VII
> practically kept the younger Henry under lock and key until the
> later's death. Arthur, not Henry, was Henry VII's pride and joy;
> perhaps he saw too much of Edward IV in his younger son.

Henry VIII prior to becoming the crown prince was a very studious boy 
who was destined for the church. He wasn't trotted out because he 
wasn't needed. Even after he became king he studied theology (long 
before Katherine went through menopause). And it continued until his 
death. That's one of the reasons why (before the divorce issue ever 
came up) the pope gave him religious awards. (Defensor something, but 
I can't recall the precise name of the honor.)

Frankly, I like Starkey. Unlike many other historians, he supports 
each "pronouncement" with solid evidence (documents of the time) from 
the time period, rather than depending on the interpretation from 
someone writing well after the time period.

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: bible comment
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I think they mean there were no queens in the line of succession of English
monarchs up to that point....Boadicea was much earlier and was just queen of
a Celtic tribe, not queen of England.  Don't know anyting on Matilda so
can't offer comments.

-- Sarcasm-hime


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kirrily Robert" <skud@infotrope.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2003 3:18 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: bible comment


> Lynne wrote:
> > Elizabeth wasn't unwanted, but she was the wrong sex. England had never
had
> > a female monarch, and in the difficult climate of the time, it wasn't
the
> > right time to try. Elizabeth was special, but that's with the advantage
of
> > hindsight.
>
> Hrm, you're not counting Matilda as a queen, I guess?  Nor Boadicaea?
>
> ;)
>
> K.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Sorry to post this to the list but Michael Blackerby are you back and
ready for your ribbon?  Margaret Baird

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Henry VIII, was Re: bible comment
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On Wednesday 30 July 2003 04:49 pm, kat@grendal.rain.com wrote:
> > Actually, there was no contemporary evidence for Arthur being
> > sickly(read Starkey's "Six Wives" for a fuller background)and that his
> > death was a total shock to the royal family.  Neither was Henry VIII's
> > illegitimate son, the Duke of Richmond, or Edward VI.
>
> Actually, there is evidence that both Edward VI and the D of Richmond
> were sick toward the ends of their lives. Edward had a case of
> measles which lead to consumption. (Which was a common problem up
> until the treatment of TB changed to using antibiotics.)

Interesting.  I never heard that particular theory before.  I had heard other 
theories--including the theory that Somerset was poisoning him.


> The Duke of
> Richmond also probably had TB. He certainly looked ill in the
> portrait done of him. Arthur was pretty healthy until he took sick at
> the end.

Things like sudden fevers did kill apparently healthy folk.  There was a 
disease, referred to only as the "sweating sickness", which Henry dreaded 
above all things.  So far as I know, there is no commonly acceptable 
hypothesis as to what it really was.

>
>  When Henry VIII
> > wanted his divorce, the question was if Arthur had been mature enough
> > to consumate the marriage with Katherine.  Arthur's illness was
> > sudden, suprising, and certainly explains in great part why Henry VII
> > practically kept the younger Henry under lock and key until the
> > later's death. Arthur, not Henry, was Henry VII's pride and joy;
> > perhaps he saw too much of Edward IV in his younger son.

That's my recollection too.  Arthur was 15 when they married him to Katherine; 
age alone is no reason to assume the marriage wasn't consummated.  But 
Katherine always denied it, and there was no contrary proof.


> Henry VIII prior to becoming the crown prince was a very studious boy
> who was destined for the church.  He wasn't trotted out because he
> wasn't needed. Even after he became king he studied theology (long
> before Katherine went through menopause). And it continued until his
> death. That's one of the reasons why (before the divorce issue ever
> came up) the pope gave him religious awards. (Defensor something, but
> I can't recall the precise name of the honor.)

Defender of the Faith.  He got the title, ironically, because he wrote a 
theological tome refuting one of the German protestant divines (I don't 
recall all the details).  He was ridiculously proud of the distinction.

Once, long ago, I read everything I could find about Henry VIII and his 
reign....


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

“No man is rich enough to buy back his 
past.”  Oscar Wilde

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: bible comment
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 21:33:15 -0400
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On Wednesday 30 July 2003 07:27 am, Lynne Connolly wrote:
[snip]

> The decision to marry Anne Boleyn was political, purely political, and
> populist historians who promote the cult of personality can't or won't see
> beyond that. Either that or they think that the stupid public can't
> possibly understand or care.

I think you're ignoring one very important fact.

Henry needed an heir, but he didn't specifically need an heir from Anne 
Boleyn.    His decision to divorce Katherine was purely political, surely, 
but his decision to marry Anne specifically, and not take a bride who could 
give him advantages other than a male heir certainly had other motives as 
well.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

“No man is rich enough to buy back his 
past.”  Oscar Wilde

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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Williamsburg and Richmond
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 22:04:31 -0400
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Melanie,

When you were at Agecroft you were 15 mins. from my house.  The mansion
where the balls were held was just down the road from Agecroft.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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Penny Ladnier wrote:
> Melanie,
> 
> When you were at Agecroft you were 15 mins. from my house.  The mansion
> where the balls were held was just down the road from Agecroft.

Well, drat!  Next time I'll know.

Melanie Schuessler
http://www.faucet.net/costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for black silk cord
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Deredere Galbraith wrote:

> But there are three thickneses of  silk cord used, 1mm, 1.5mm and 6mm 
> and I don't have a clue where to get it.

I've been using a black silk twisted cord called Trebizond which I 
really like.  It's 1mm, and I don't know that they make any other sizes. 
  I also don't know where to tell you to get it in Europe, but you can 
order it from several American companies online.  I use Rising River 
Thread Express and have always been very happy with their service.
http://threadexpress.com/

I too had a hard time finding black silk cord--not sure where you'll 
find the larger sizes.  There are however gadgets that you can get for 
twisting your own cord (as opposed to using turned tubing).  I've not 
used them, but I'm sure someone here could tell you about them.

All the best,
Melanie Schuessler
http://www.faucet.net/costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Williamsburg and Richmond
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 23:31:20 -0400
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Just let me know when you are coming into town.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Melanie Schuessler" <melanie@faucet.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2003 11:41 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Williamsburg and Richmond


> Penny Ladnier wrote:
> > Melanie,
> >
> > When you were at Agecroft you were 15 mins. from my house.  The mansion
> > where the balls were held was just down the road from Agecroft.
>
> Well, drat!  Next time I'll know.
>
> Melanie Schuessler
> http://www.faucet.net/costume
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Lion King Tickets
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Does anyone know of a cheaper way to get tickets to The Lion King on
Broadway?  The tickets through the box office for the Orchestra area are
$100.  You can't do the mid-day rush for cheaper tickets for this show
except for Standing Room Only.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] UK event Stoneleigh, Aug. 9-10
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Kirby? Was that the one swimming in mud? If it's raining up your way, we
could sure use some of it over here.....No precip. for I-dunno-how-long,
plus abnormally high temps and very low humidity.
--sue (thinking that this summer has actually got her looking forward to
winter....;-)

N Kipar wrote:
> 
>  --- Kate M Bunting <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> wrote: > Any UK members going to
> Stoneleigh, English Heritage's replacement for
> > Kirby Hall? Our music group are not attending as there will be no indoor
> > venue, but I shall be there as a member of the Sealed Knot Living
> > History Group.
> 
> Ptooiee! No way!
> 
> Sorry to have to say this, but I would not for the life of me work for English
> Heritage again after this appalling treatment at last year's Kirby, where it
> became clear they apparently don't give a doodah about the hard working
> re-enactors.
> 
> Actually, we are going this weekend to the Midlands show (Military Odyssey in
> Lichfield, so to speak)
> 
> Real shame though that we won't meet again, Kate!
> 
> Nicole
> 
> =====
> Men Die. Cattle Die. Word-Fame Lives Forever.   ~ Old Norse Aphorism
> 
> Email: nicole@kipar.org
> URL: http://www.kipar.org
> 
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Want to chat instantly with your online friends?  Get the FREE Yahoo!
> Messenger http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com/
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Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 00:04:21 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dawn Jacobson <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: bible comment
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At 12:57 PM 7/30/2003 -0400, you wrote:

>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Dawn Jacobson" <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2003 12:13 PM
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: bible comment
>
>
> > Salic Law excludes women from inheriting a throne. This was the reason
>that
> > the Empress Maud (aka Queen Matilda) was passed over in favor of King
> > Stephen. BTW, Maud was the first queen of England, but she was on the
> > throne for a very short time, and there was a civil war going on during
>her
> > entire reign. This was undoubtedly the reason why there was little
>interest
> > in having a daughter declared the heir--very few people in the 16th
>century
> > had a good opinion of Maud.
> >
> > Dawn
> >
>
>I don't think the Salic Law was in the mind of Henry VIII at all. The Salic
>Law came from Clovis and was a list of many laws regarding behavior (murder
>etc). The part you mentioned was concerned with inheriting money and
>property (wehrgeld) not thrones or offices. The laws were reformulated under
>Charlemagne in the 9th century but were all but forgotten by the 13th
>century because they had become part of the common laws. The law was used
>with regard to the throne by the French in 1316 when the brother of the king
>wished to take the throne rather than have it be given to his 6 year old
>niece. There is no evidence that he attained the crown due to the Salic Law
>rather than the desire to have a grown man on the throne rather than a 6
>year old child. This law only seems to be invoked for convenience such as
>when a foreign woman is in the succession or when the power structure of the
>day wishes someone else to rule. The law isn't used in many cases when women
>have inherited fiefs such as a duchy as mentioned in the Treaty of Guerande
>which was inherited by a woman. I believe France is the only country to use
>the Salic Law with reference to the throne until the 18th century.

*****
Actually Salic Law forms the basis for the concept of primogeniture, 
whereby all property and titles proceed to the first-born son, no matter 
where he falls in birth order. If no male issue occurs, the property and 
titles go to the eldest male relative. This concept is still in use today: 
the current heir to the British throne is Prince Charles, in spite of his 
having an older sister (Princess Anne). Shoud Charles die before ascending 
the throne, Prince William will become  the heir, in spite of Anne having 
children older than Prince William. While the concept has been used 
frequently up until present, the official invoking of Salic Law occurs much 
less often; as with many other such laws, they are invoked when it suits 
the purpose of the people invoking it.
*****


>I have heard that the Salic Law was invoked with regard to Matilda. However,
>she did come to rule which seems to contradict that. She was extremely
>unpopular with the people and the nobles as was her husband. Stephen beat
>her in battle and came to the throne.

*****
Salic Law was invoked to set aside the will drawn up by Henry I that named 
her (as his daughter) as his heir over Stephen of Blois (his nephew). 
Stephen seized the throne, and a protracted civil war ensued, with both of 
them periodically claiming victory over the other. Maud's forces were 
eventually able to secure London, and she was crowned queen, but Stephen 
was able to escape, and his forces continued the civil war. After 
approximately 9 months, Stephen, who had escaped from Maud, forced her to 
flee London. She and Stephen eventually were able to come to terms: Stephen 
could have the throne, but Maud's son Henry, would be named Stephen's heir. 
This occured on Stephen's death, and Maud's son became Henry II (who had 
his own problems with women, but that's another story!).

Dawn

Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are the costumes we wear every day. 
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Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 00:24:27 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dawn Jacobson <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 2, Issue 464
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At 01:20 PM 7/30/2003 -0700, Arlys wrote:
>Yup. England wasn't under Salic Law at the time of the Tudors. Or before,
>either.
>
>And I totally agree with you re: Starkey. Waaaay too full of his personal
>biases, and pompous enough to state them as fact. (Um, David, there's
>this thing most historians use called "evidence"....)
>
>Arlys, mundanely an MA in history
>
>On Wed, 30 Jul 2003 12:34:08 EDT MaddNancy@aol.com writes:
> > Dawn Jacobson wrote:
> >
> > > Salic Law excludes women from inheriting a throne.
> >
> > But according to Henry V, this law only applies to France, not
> > England!
> >
> > I saw the Starkey show and disliked him rather intensely just in the
> > first
> > few minutes.  He sounded like a tabloid journalist hyping
> > everything.
> >
> > My 2 cents...
> >
> > Nancy Stengel Ulmer

Actually, if you go back and read my original post, I did not state the 
England was under Salic Law; I said that Salic Law excluded women from 
ascending a throne. It is important to remember that through the 16th 
century and after, England had close ties with most of what are now 
countries in western Europe; close ties usually mean common ideas, and many 
people did not relish the idea of a woman, any woman, ascending the throne 
of England.

I agree with you that Starkey is not very likeable; I must admit, I also 
question his seriousness to his subject, as I felt in watching a portion of 
the series (I saw the part about Anne of Cleves) that he preferred to play 
up incidents that justified his own emphasis on sex, rather than give a 
serious, objective examination to the lives of six very interesting women.

I'm afraid he goes into the same category as all those other "experts" that 
require a large dose of salt with anything they dish up.

Dawn

Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are the costumes we wear every day. 
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Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 09:06:58 +0100
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] UK event Stoneleigh, Aug. 9-10
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Yes, the last Kirby was wet, as was at least one other (the event was
held 6 or 7 times). We are having rain in the UK after a hot dry spell -
the hot weather (to us, anyway) is forecast to return next week.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> mooncat@in-tch.com 07/31/03 05:58am >>>
Kirby? Was that the one swimming in mud? If it's raining up your way,
we
could sure use some of it over here.....No precip. for
I-dunno-how-long,
plus abnormally high temps and very low humidity.
--sue (thinking that this summer has actually got her looking forward
to
winter....;-)


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From: Brenda <webwarren@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] Williamsburg and Richmond 
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Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net> wrote:

> From where I am, you pretty much have to go to Richmond to get to
>Williamsburg.

And from where we are, not. Well, from where we'd be coming from to get to 
Williamsburg. Frank's folks are in Virginia Beach, so we always take the 
Eastern Shore down from New Jersey, and then we do Williamsburg as a day 
trip from VB.

We're actually going to be in VB this weekend (if the gods are willing!), 
for a family wedding, but we're likely not going to have the chance to 
stick around for anything else. Hopefully we'll be able to manage some time 
to get to Williamsburg and/or Jamestown around Christmastime.


Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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> > > I saw the Starkey show and disliked him rather intensely just in the
> > > first
> > > few minutes.  He sounded like a tabloid journalist hyping
> > > everything.


Actually, he reminded me strongly of Robin Leach, who had one of the most
annoying voices ever.

Dianne

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Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 15:33:41 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: bible comment
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At 02:33 31/07/2003, you wrote:
>Henry needed an heir, but he didn't specifically need an heir from Anne
>Boleyn.    His decision to divorce Katherine was purely political, surely,
>but his decision to marry Anne specifically, and not take a bride who could
>give him advantages other than a male heir certainly had other motives as
>well.

  I did mention that his choice was personal, but the decision to divorce 
Katherine and marry to sire an heir was not. At the time alliances were 
pressed on him with France, or Germany, depending on which direction the 
political wind was blowing, but he stuck out for Anne. He was obsessed with 
her, but had he declared his intention to stay married to Katharine and 
have Mary as his heir, Anne might well have been a mistress instead (she 
might also have lived longer).


Lynne Connolly, GSOLFOT
Award winning Historical Romance author.
The Richard and Rose books from <http://www.novelbooksinc.com/>Novelbooks Inc.
YORKSHIRE, DEVONSHIRE and now VENICE
VANESSA from <http://www.awe-struck.net/>Awe-Struck books
http://www.geocities.com/lynne_connolly2001/  

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>
>Actually Salic Law forms the basis for the concept of primogeniture, 
>whereby all property and titles proceed to the first-born son, no matter 
>where he falls in birth order.

Salic Law disbars women from inheriting. Primogeniture ensures that the 
males inherit first, but does not disbar women from the inheritance.

>If no male issue occurs, the property and titles go to the eldest male 
>relative. This concept is still in use today: the current heir to the 
>British throne is Prince Charles, in spite of his having an older sister 
>(Princess Anne).

Actually Charles is the eldest.


>>I have heard that the Salic Law was invoked with regard to Matilda. However,
>>she did come to rule which seems to contradict that. She was extremely
>>unpopular with the people and the nobles as was her husband. Stephen beat
>>her in battle and came to the throne.

She did not rule. She is not listed as Queen of England in any source I 
have ever read, or been forced to learn at school. She did claim the 
throne, but since, even then, the throne was bestowed on the monarch by the 
people (in theory!) she was never accepted or acknowledged as Queen. Her 
'coronation' was never accepted or ratified. She never ruled, there are no 
laws bearing her name. She was a claimant, much the same as Monmouth, Mary 
Queen of Scots or James Edward Stuart were.
(The Brother Cadfael books are set during this civil war, btw).


Lynne Connolly, GSOLFOT
Award winning Historical Romance author.
The Richard and Rose books from <http://www.novelbooksinc.com/>Novelbooks Inc.
YORKSHIRE, DEVONSHIRE and now VENICE
VANESSA from <http://www.awe-struck.net/>Awe-Struck books
http://www.geocities.com/lynne_connolly2001/  

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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re:Salic Law, was [h-cost] Re: bible comment
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Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> lynneconnolly@ntlworld.com 07/31/03 03:43pm >>>

>>If no male issue occurs, the property and titles go to the eldest
male 
>>relative. This concept is still in use today: the current heir to the

>>British throne is Prince Charles, in spite of his having an older
sister 
>>(Princess Anne).

>Actually Charles is the eldest.

Well spotted, Lynne - I hadn't noticed that error. And of course the
Salic Law would have prevented the present Queen from inheriting;
presumably the crown would have had to go to a male cousin.




>
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> > Actually, there is evidence that both Edward VI and the D of
> > Richmond were sick toward the ends of their lives. Edward had a case
> > of measles which lead to consumption. (Which was a common problem up
> > until the treatment of TB changed to using antibiotics.)
> 
> Interesting.  I never heard that particular theory before.  I had
> heard other theories--including the theory that Somerset was poisoning
> him.

In medical school they used him as an example of a childhood illness 
activating the disease by liberating the TB bug because of the way 
measles in particular causes changes in calcium metabolism.

It's well known that Edward had measles. And his symptoms started 
after that and sound very much like consumption (which is just an old 
word for active TB.)

> > The Duke of
> > Richmond also probably had TB. He certainly looked ill in the
> > portrait done of him. Arthur was pretty healthy until he took sick
> > at the end.
> 
> Things like sudden fevers did kill apparently healthy folk.  There was
> a disease, referred to only as the "sweating sickness", which Henry
> dreaded above all things.  So far as I know, there is no commonly
> acceptable hypothesis as to what it really was.

None that I've ever seen. Some people think it may have been a form 
of influenza. But there are many fever causing diseases and at this 
point they'd be almost impossible to sort out. And one of the things 
that I didn't know is that Katherine was sick at the same time as 
Arthur but recovered when he continued to fail. (This was one of the 
things brought out in Six Wives.)

> >  When Henry VIII
> > > wanted his divorce, the question was if Arthur had been mature
> > > enough to consumate the marriage with Katherine.  Arthur's illness
> > > was sudden, suprising, and certainly explains in great part why
> > > Henry VII practically kept the younger Henry under lock and key
> > > until the later's death. Arthur, not Henry, was Henry VII's pride
> > > and joy; perhaps he saw too much of Edward IV in his younger son.
> 
> That's my recollection too.  Arthur was 15 when they married him to
> Katherine; age alone is no reason to assume the marriage wasn't
> consummated.  But Katherine always denied it, and there was no
> contrary proof.

Age certainly isn't a bar to that sort of thing! When I was in 
residency we had a 10 year old girl who was pregnant by her 9 year 
old "boyfriend". 

While it is pretty unusual for a person who is that young to be 
sexually mature enough, 14 and 15 year old boys can be *quite* randy! 
(It's a wonder that we don't want to have all little girls in 
chastity belts. It's also a pity that parents don't understand how 
early you have to start sex education if you don't want them to start 
playing around with the fun parts before they know the consequences. 
It was *quite* obvious from talking to the 10 year old girl that they 
had no clue that they were even having sex. They were just "feeling 
good.")
 
> Defender of the Faith.  He got the title, ironically, because he wrote
> a theological tome refuting one of the German protestant divines (I
> don't recall all the details).  He was ridiculously proud of the
> distinction.

Yep, that's it. But that's the translation of what it was called.

> Once, long ago, I read everything I could find about Henry VIII and
> his reign....

I still do. I'm particularly interested in 1525-1550 and grab all I 
can about that time period. Knowing the politics of the time often 
helps understand a lot about how the clothing changed during that 
time. And you'd be surprised at how much you can pick up about actual 
clothing if you are reading history. (And some of the newer books 
have photographs of portraits that I haven't yet seen, even in my 
perusal of the National Portrait Gallery Archives in London.)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 07:44:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: prairielark <prairielark@herspace.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victoria gone?????!!!!!
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Thanks to all who responded... I, too, had a lesser opinion of the "new" format, but at the time of the change, I assumed I alone held that opinion because I am unfashionably behind the times and do, emotionally and mentally anyway, "live" in the Victorian era. I so much missed the features on literature and old-fashioned clothing, or modern clothing inspired by the old.  I loved, at first, the emphasis on women entrepreneurs until it seemed that they all were mimicking one another, from one frou-frou high-priced antique shop/bakery/florist to another.  I missed the interviews with Tasha Tudor, Madeleine L'Engel, and Nancy Lindemeier's wonderful letters.  I guess I am gratified that at least some on this list, and many subscribers, were equally disappointed.  To me, it seemed that Victoria sold out to the modern pop-economic market, and lost.  I guess maybe I'm not so sad after all.

Is there a niche market out there who is still looking for the things the "old" Victoria gave, the quality photography, the delectable recipes, the features on European out-of-the way haunts and the emphasis on gentle, self-reliant living?  Can anyone tell me where to find out more about the "Vintage Fashions" magazine? --even tho' it may not address all of these, at least maybe it will fulfill my hunger for stunning photos & detailed studies of scrumptious garments.

Phoebe

the prairie lark 

--- Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net> wrote:
>
>Victoria lost me a few years ago for that very reason--I loved the first
>few years, was a subscribed since the second issue.  It had much more
>content then, not just pretty pictures.  I remember a wonderful article
>on garnet jewelry, and on my "not-yet" friend John Burrows reproduction
>carpets.
>
>It's sad.  I am looking forward to the new Vintage Fashions magazine.  I
>wonder what it will be like.
>
>Katy
>

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At 17:04 31/07/2003, you wrote:
> > Once, long ago, I read everything I could find about Henry VIII and
> > his reign....

  I did my first degree in English and Art History, and for my dissertation 
I studied Holbein and secular propoganda.
A dream for a costume fanatic!


Lynne Connolly, GSOLFOT
Award winning Historical Romance author.
The Richard and Rose books from <http://www.novelbooksinc.com/>Novelbooks Inc.
YORKSHIRE, DEVONSHIRE and now VENICE
VANESSA from <http://www.awe-struck.net/>Awe-Struck books
http://www.geocities.com/lynne_connolly2001/  

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Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 10:29:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dawn Jacobson <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:Salic Law, was [h-cost] Re: bible comment
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--- Kate M Bunting <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> wrote:
> 
> 
> Kate Bunting
> Library, University of Derby
> 
> >>> lynneconnolly@ntlworld.com 07/31/03 03:43pm >>>
> 
> >>If no male issue occurs, the property and titles
> go to the eldest
> male 
> >>relative. This concept is still in use today: the
> current heir to the
> 
> >>British throne is Prince Charles, in spite of his
> having an older
> sister 
> >>(Princess Anne).
> 
> >Actually Charles is the eldest.

To quote Homer (Simpson): Doh!

I knew that--that's what I get for answering my e-mail
at 1:00 in the morning. ;-D 

Thanks Kate!

Dawn

=====
Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are just the costumes we wear every day.
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jul 31 14:28:35 2003
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Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 11:24:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: Lil Sorepaws <sorepaws@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Wooly woes
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Hi there ... I just got my (itchy) hands on some pretty dreamy wool (6
yards coat weight heavy black which I want to make into a cloak - 6 yards
cranberry red in a medium weight - what do I make from that?  ;) and want
to know if I need to 1) pre-shrink it or otherwise pre-treat it and 2) if
so, HOW??  Wash?  Dry Clean?  "iron" on steam with iron 1/4 inch from the
surface (as fabric savvy suggests) ... I don't want to lose a lot of
yardage but at the same time I'd rather not make something only to have it
shrink on me when it gets cleaned!!

Both of these are different weight for wool (one is a nice heavy -think
lighterweight pea coat- black woolm the other a thin enough red wool to
work for a suit or skirt .. would that one work for an elizabethan or
tudor type gown?  Or would i fry in it since I would need to line it to
avoid allergies (masochist i know ;) ...or should i just make a cloak for
cooler fall/spring nights and consider myself done?

Pardon the million questions but i generally never work with wool so I am
clueless to the extreme ...

also one last question .. what type of cloak to make to use the wool in
the most optimal manner?  I have a number of patterns and they all call
fro very different yardages for what looks like the same thing!  HELP?!

Thanks much for all your wisdom!!

- lil (back to lurking)

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>>
>>Actually Salic Law forms the basis for the concept of 
>>primogeniture, whereby all property and titles proceed to the 
>>first-born son, no matter where he falls in birth order.
>
>Salic Law disbars women from inheriting. Primogeniture ensures that 
>the males inherit first, but does not disbar women from the 
>inheritance.

A key part of primogeniture is that only _one_ person inherits (the 
first-born "primo-geniture").  This contrasts, for example, with the 
partible inheritance of early medieval Wales where all sons inherited 
equally (including "illegitimate" ones -- something the English found 
very strange).  Actually, the Welsh system was a bit more extreme 
than that because, within a particular degree of relatedness, 
inherited land could be redistributed equally among cousins, not just 
among brothers.  (Women could participate in this inheritance on 
behalf of their children under certain particular circumstances where 
the children's father was not part of the Welsh land system.)

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wooly woes
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 14:05:20 -0500
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> to know if I need to 1) pre-shrink it or otherwise pre-treat it and 2) if
> so, HOW??  Wash?  Dry Clean?  "iron" on steam with iron 1/4 inch from the
> surface (as fabric savvy suggests) ...

How do you want to clean it after it's made? If you want to be able to wash
and dry at home, then pre-wash the h*ll out of it. It will shrink, you may
want to test a swatch to see how much shrinkage you get. It's my
understanding that dry cleaning shrinks less, but you will probably still
get some shrinkage from it.\

>the other a thin enough red wool to
> work for a suit or skirt .. would that one work for an elizabethan or
> tudor type gown?  Or would i fry in it since I would need to line it to
> avoid allergies (masochist i know ;) ...or should i just make a cloak for
> cooler fall/spring nights and consider myself done?

Wool works great for an Eliz., which you want to line anyhow. I have a
middle class Eliz. in mid-weight wool lined with linen and find it to be
quite comfortable with linen smock, corset, corded petticoat and linen
underskirt. Depending on drape, you may want to interline with something a
bit sturdier for the bodice, but I only put a few cable ties for boning in
the front and find that it works well for me. If you are shooting for a
higher class look, you may want to interline the bodice with a cotton duck.
I'm not sure what you would use in the skirt...I like mine to be fairly
drapey.

I have found that I *love* working with wool, it's just a great fabric!
However, I don't have any itching issues, so good luck!

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot
BRF FOF; Guilde of St. Lawrence

A room without books is like a body without a soul
---Cicero

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************

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> I never line the skirts of my kirtles, but instead use a separate
> petticoat, as that's easier to wash separately.  I usually line my gowns
> though.  What do others do?
>
> K.

I line the skirt, but only because then I have a reversable kirtle - two for
one! It makes it a little bit heavier, but I figure the harder part is in
the lining of the bodice, so I might as well get a little more for the work
I'm putting in it. Also, all of my kirtles so far have been linen "lined"
with linen - if I were to use a heavier fabric, I would probably not line,
or line with a very light linen. Lining also allows me to pin or tuck the
skirt out of the way if needed - I always wear at least a corded petticoat,
if not also an underskirt with a kirtle.

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot
BRF FOF; Guilde of St. Lawrence

A room without books is like a body without a soul
---Cicero

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************

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Informative subject line, no? 

Just wondering about those of you SCA costumer types, how the heck do you 
manage to make enough garb for Pennsic? I can't seem to get through a frickin' 
under kirtle without it becoming a Project (TM)...that takes 4 weeks to 
complete. And now I'm staring at my farthingale with loathing and dismay, because I'm 
not sure I believe in the Arnold "It's 10 inches too long...for the tucks!" 
theory about Alcega anymore....

Does anyone else feel like they "costume/research/sew" all the time but have 
these tiny little wardrobes? I have one year to clothe myself for Pennsic, I 
think I'm too anal to get it done. 

OK, rant over.

-Sarra Wryght
<A HREF="www.sixteenthcenturystitchery.com">www.sixteenthcenturystitchery.com</A>  (Elizabethan Dress Diaries, etc)
Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
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From: "Jamie" <jamie@thecoffeehouse.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] looking for black silk cord
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 16:13:36 -0400
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De-lurking for a moment as I actually have something to contribute
LOL....

I use a twist-a-braid by Conair for my cording, can be found in the
curling iron/blow dryer aisle of department stores.  I figured if it
could be used for my daughter's hair why not cording and it is soo easy
to use just for that, so now we have 2, one is kept in my sewing room
the other, the girls wear!!

Okay back to lurking......
Jamie

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Ysoria de Brai
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2003 6:32 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for black silk cord




>I too had a hard time finding black silk cord--not sure where you'll 
>find
>the larger sizes.  There are however gadgets that you can get for
twisting 
>your own cord (as opposed to using turned tubing).

I have found that the easiest and fastest way to make twisted rope (or 
cord) is with an electric drill, cordless or otherwise.  All you need to
do 
is replace the drill bit with some sort of hook

To use it you secure one end of a piece of "string" to something that
will 
not move ( I often tie it to the back of a heavy chair or a door handle
) 
and hook the other to the drill.  You can then use the drill to put a 
considerable amount of twist on that string.  If you then keep a bit of 
tension on the ends of the string, you can pick it up in the middle and
it 
will twist back up on itself.  The drill can also be used in reverse if
the 
cord needs some help in twisting back.

If you want to make a really long cord it sometimes helps to have three 
people around, just to keep things from tangling, but I often manage
with 
just some tape to keep the cord put.

There are a lot of hand cranked machines that do the same, but anything 
that can put in a twist will work, including drop spindles.  You can
even 
do it by hand, it just takes forever and keeping the tension even is
tricky.

        - Nicole

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Ysoria de Brai <Ysoria@grumpybadger.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for black silk cord
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>I too had a hard time finding black silk cord--not sure where you'll find 
>the larger sizes.  There are however gadgets that you can get for twisting 
>your own cord (as opposed to using turned tubing).

I have found that the easiest and fastest way to make twisted rope (or 
cord) is with an electric drill, cordless or otherwise.  All you need to do 
is replace the drill bit with some sort of hook

To use it you secure one end of a piece of "string" to something that will 
not move ( I often tie it to the back of a heavy chair or a door handle ) 
and hook the other to the drill.  You can then use the drill to put a 
considerable amount of twist on that string.  If you then keep a bit of 
tension on the ends of the string, you can pick it up in the middle and it 
will twist back up on itself.  The drill can also be used in reverse if the 
cord needs some help in twisting back.

If you want to make a really long cord it sometimes helps to have three 
people around, just to keep things from tangling, but I often manage with 
just some tape to keep the cord put.

There are a lot of hand cranked machines that do the same, but anything 
that can put in a twist will work, including drop spindles.  You can even 
do it by hand, it just takes forever and keeping the tension even is tricky.

        - Nicole

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wooly woes
In-Reply-To: <005301c35796$b087b320$06a7b944@mad.chartermi.net>
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From: Kirrily Robert <skud@infotrope.net>
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Rebecca wrote:
> Wool works great for an Eliz., which you want to line anyhow. I have a
> middle class Eliz. in mid-weight wool lined with linen and find it to be
> quite comfortable with linen smock, corset, corded petticoat and linen
> underskirt. 

I never line the skirts of my kirtles, but instead use a separate
petticoat, as that's easier to wash separately.  I usually line my gowns
though.  What do others do?

K.
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jul 31 20:29:41 2003
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From: "Glenda Robinson" <glendar@compassnet.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wooly woes
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>
> I never line the skirts of my kirtles, but instead use a separate
> petticoat, as that's easier to wash separately.
> K.

I do this too. The wools need/needed far less washing than the linens. I
only wash my woolens after going somewhere extremely muddy. Dirt can often
be brushed off woolens, but unfortunately not linens.

>
> I usually line my gowns though.  What do others do?
>
> K.

I've not made any later period gowns since becoming a compleat authenticity
nut. I don't line my earlier period woolens, but use a linen undertunic.

Glenda.

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jul 31 20:44:05 2003
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Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 18:45:24 -0600
From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bleh
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This SCA costumer type solves the Pennsic problem by not going! <g>
Even if I did go, I wouldn't be able to stay the whole length of time
it's going on.  So I might add a few pieces (extra shifts or something),
but otherwise, my fairly plain wardrobe could handle a weekish of
camping.
And I completely understand about small items of clothing turning into
Major Life Projects.  Something Nicole said a while back about using a
broken lozenge twill fabric got me to thinking....so now, instead of
just ordering some wool and making a Norman outfit, I want to start from
the fleece, spin the yarn myself, do the whole natural dye bit, weave
it, and THEN sew it.
I am currently spinning like a demon--it's so much fun learning
something completely new.  And researching wool types to get the most
appropriate fleece to make a worsted fabric from....
And eventually, I'll have to learn to weave!
So, maybe, several years down the road, I'll finally have a new outfit!
;o)
--sue, who should be out on her (cooler than inside the house) front
porch, spinning, instead of on the computer!

LoreleiMorte@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Informative subject line, no?
> 
> Just wondering about those of you SCA costumer types, how the heck do you
> manage to make enough garb for Pennsic? I can't seem to get through a frickin'
> under kirtle without it becoming a Project (TM)...that takes 4 weeks to
> complete. And now I'm staring at my farthingale with loathing and dismay, because I'm
> not sure I believe in the Arnold "It's 10 inches too long...for the tucks!"
> theory about Alcega anymore....
> 
> Does anyone else feel like they "costume/research/sew" all the time but have
> these tiny little wardrobes? I have one year to clothe myself for Pennsic, I
> think I'm too anal to get it done.
> 
> OK, rant over.
> 
> -Sarra Wryght
> <A HREF="www.sixteenthcenturystitchery.com">www.sixteenthcenturystitchery.com</A>  (Elizabethan Dress Diaries, etc)
> Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jul 31 20:59:42 2003
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wooly woes
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Line (and interline) the bodices.  Line the sleeves.  Leave the skirts
alone unless I've done loads of heavy beading or some such, and need to
protect the back of the work.
--sue

Kirrily Robert wrote:
> 
> I never line the skirts of my kirtles, but instead use a separate
> petticoat, as that's easier to wash separately.  I usually line my gowns
> though.  What do others do?
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From: "Beteena Paradise" <bkessinger@ureach.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bleh
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I am SO with you on this one! I am not going to Pennsic this year, but I am
already stressing over the costuming symposium and that isn't until October!

Teena
----- Original Message -----
From: <LoreleiMorte@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2003 6:28 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Bleh


> Informative subject line, no?
>
> Just wondering about those of you SCA costumer types, how the heck do you
> manage to make enough garb for Pennsic? I can't seem to get through a
frickin'
> under kirtle without it becoming a Project (TM)...that takes 4 weeks to
> complete. And now I'm staring at my farthingale with loathing and dismay,
because I'm
> not sure I believe in the Arnold "It's 10 inches too long...for the
tucks!"
> theory about Alcega anymore....
>
> Does anyone else feel like they "costume/research/sew" all the time but
have
> these tiny little wardrobes? I have one year to clothe myself for Pennsic,
I
> think I'm too anal to get it done.
>
> OK, rant over.
>
> -Sarra Wryght
> <A
HREF="www.sixteenthcenturystitchery.com">www.sixteenthcenturystitchery.com</
A>  (Elizabethan Dress Diaries, etc)
> Live Journal: http://www.livejournal.com/users/loreleisedai/
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>

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On Thursday 31 July 2003 10:33 am, Lynne Connolly wrote:
> At 02:33 31/07/2003, you wrote:
> >Henry needed an heir, but he didn't specifically need an heir from Anne
> >Boleyn.    His decision to divorce Katherine was purely political, surely,
> >but his decision to marry Anne specifically, and not take a bride who
> > could give him advantages other than a male heir certainly had other
> > motives as well.
>
>   I did mention that his choice was personal, but the decision to divorce
> Katherine and marry to sire an heir was not. 

Apologies.  I missed that part of your comments.



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

“No man is rich enough to buy back his 
past.”  Oscar Wilde

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Henry VIII
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 22:59:56 -0400
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On Thursday 31 July 2003 12:04 pm, kat@grendal.rain.com wrote:
> > > Actually, there is evidence that both Edward VI and the D of
> > > Richmond were sick toward the ends of their lives. Edward had a case
> > > of measles which lead to consumption. (Which was a common problem up
> > > until the treatment of TB changed to using antibiotics.)
> >
> > Interesting.  I never heard that particular theory before.  I had
> > heard other theories--including the theory that Somerset was poisoning
> > him.
>
> In medical school they used him as an example of a childhood illness
> activating the disease by liberating the TB bug because of the way
> measles in particular causes changes in calcium metabolism.
>
> It's well known that Edward had measles. And his symptoms started
> after that and sound very much like consumption (which is just an old
> word for active TB.)

I'd heard of the "consumption" theory, now that I think about it, but hadn't 
heard of the measles part.  Maybe that's because I haven't been to med 
school.  :-)


[snip]

> > Things like sudden fevers did kill apparently healthy folk.  There was
> > a disease, referred to only as the "sweating sickness", which Henry
> > dreaded above all things.  So far as I know, there is no commonly
> > acceptable hypothesis as to what it really was.
>
> None that I've ever seen. Some people think it may have been a form
> of influenza. But there are many fever causing diseases and at this
> point they'd be almost impossible to sort out. And one of the things
> that I didn't know is that Katherine was sick at the same time as
> Arthur but recovered when he continued to fail. (This was one of the
> things brought out in Six Wives.)

I remember that too, now that you mention it.  There was a point at which the 
English considered sending her back to Spain, I believe, but she was still too 
weak to go.  By the time she recovered, the idea of wedding her to Henry had 
taken hold.

[snip]

>
> > Defender of the Faith.  He got the title, ironically, because he wrote
> > a theological tome refuting one of the German protestant divines (I
> > don't recall all the details).  He was ridiculously proud of the
> > distinction.
>
> Yep, that's it. But that's the translation of what it was called.

Right.  He was awarded the title in Latin--the language of theology, among 
other things.  "Fidei Defensor"  according to a site I just found via Google.  
:-)



> > Once, long ago, I read everything I could find about Henry VIII and
> > his reign....
>
> I still do. I'm particularly interested in 1525-1550 and grab all I
> can about that time period. Knowing the politics of the time often
> helps understand a lot about how the clothing changed during that
> time. And you'd be surprised at how much you can pick up about actual
> clothing if you are reading history. (And some of the newer books
> have photographs of portraits that I haven't yet seen, even in my
> perusal of the National Portrait Gallery Archives in London.)

I never found that to be the case--but I was a lot younger and less patient 
then, and I admit the portraits at least hold many useful clues.  Especially 
Holbein's.  :-)

Nowadays I'm more interested in Vikings.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

“No man is rich enough to buy back his 
past.”  Oscar Wilde

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To: historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Dawn Jacobson <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] And for something else to do in L.A....
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For all those coming to L.A. for Costume College, and still feeling flush 
enough after a visit to the Garment District...

If you can score them, to go see "The Producers" at the Pantages Theater. 
The theater is lovely, Jason Alexander and Martin Short are terrific as Max 
Bialystock and Leo Bloom, and it's well worth going to see. I saw it this 
afternoon (I missed it when it was in San Francisco earlier this year), and 
I'm glad I saw it in L.A.--a much better theater experience.

OCC: The designer for the show (William Ivey Long) did a great job of 
adapting the costumes from the "Springtime for Hitler" production number in 
the movie for the stage; the rest of the costumes are generally post-WWII 
generic costumes (vaguely late '50s/early '60s). All in all a very 
nice-looking show.

Off to Costume College, so I'll catch up with e-mail on Monday night. Have 
a nice weekend!

Dawn

Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are the costumes we wear every day. 


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