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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <BFEHIMCIGHOOMKCFPMCEEEDIIBAA.megan@benchite.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] So, What'd ya get?
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 14:05:37 -0500
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My marginal gifts include "Killing Time" (Scott Martin; Leisure and culture
in SW Pa, 1800-1850).
Also, " The Secret Eye", a journal of a woman of the South written during
the Civil War .
My husband found "Couture Culture", which is a study in modern art and
fashion. Nancy Troy presents this mostly 20th C discussion.
My other daughter traveled to Thailand last year and presented my with some
wonderful textiles and trims that she got in the Hill country.
While in DC, I found a 'bargain' copy of The Virgin Mary which shows how she
was imagined from the earliest time into the 20th C. Interesting resource.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Megan M." <megan@benchite.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 25, 2003 10:45 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] So, What'd ya get?


> Well- marginally costume-related.  I got a reproduction of the 1768-1771
> original edition of the encyclopedia Brittanica.  I'm sure there must be
> some clothing-related entries in there somewhere. I've only gotten as far
as
> the first of the three volumes, so far.
> -Megan
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Dec 31 14:33:32 2003
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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10312270025360.21080-100000@shell.nightowl.net><CB4BF0F2-382E-11D8-B0C6-00039369A97A@wonderland.com><4.3.1.2.20031227014426.057f09d0@mail.frys.com><E1AaeTZ-0005PQ-00@eggnog><BAY1-DAV23AMbmF6rRt00015237@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: scissors
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 14:37:25 -0500
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I have three pair of these. Since I cut all kinds of fabric in the shop, I
often find myself up short when a really sharp pair is required; there for,
I will go out and pick up another pair to tide me over until the sharpener
is in town.  My biggest problem is however, that the spring has a way of
snapping.  Of course, the notions counter does not stock them.  I have found
that if I send them back to Fiscars that they will replace the spring and
send me a few spares.  When the same thing happened to the snippers, they
even sent me a new pair! along with the repaired set. Great service!
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, December 29, 2003 4:22 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: scissors


> My expensive pair are Fiskars Softouch and are spring loaded.  They do not
> have the two holes for the fingers.  You can see them here:
>
http://www.westons.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Fiskars__Softouch__Scissors_644.html
> I am left handed but do all my cutting with my right hand.  For years I
> turned normal scissors upside down to cut.  My costume professor suggested
> that I switch to the Softouch... then they cost about $45.  I see on this
> webpage they are $37.50 now.  I have had this pair for about seven years
and
> not needed to sharpen them yet.  But I don't sew all the time.  They do
take
> some time to get used to using them... but it is worth it.  My hand no
> longer hurts when I cut out things, even heavy fabrics.  The other nice
> thing about the scissors is that they will lock into place with the switch
> of a button.  Its the orange thing on the scissors image.  The pads on the
> handles are really nice too.
>
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
>
>
> [This E-mail was scanned for viruses by Plugit.com Virus Scanners
(http://www.plugit.com)]
>
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Dec 31 14:43:21 2003
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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <32322860.1072729696709.JavaMail.root@wamui05.slb.atl.earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: scissors
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 14:47:01 -0500
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Urban legend or not, I find that cutting fake fur a lot ( as in animal
costumes) seemed to affect the blades more that paper.  Also, buckram,
pellon and others of this type .
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris Laning" <claning@igc.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, December 29, 2003 3:28 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: scissors


> Carol wrote:
>
> > Scissors are thought to get duller faster if you use them to cut paper
(I
> >don't know if this is true or not).
>
> I've been wondering about this for a while. I know that it's often claimed
that paper dulls good scissors, but has anyone ever run across any hard
evidence one way or the other? Or is this an Urban Sewing Legend? <g>
>
> >More importantly, paper scissors are often
> >not cared for very well, and as "lesser" scissors might be used to cut a
thin
> >bit of wire, they might hit a staple, etc.  This causes nicks in the
blade
> >that, when cutting fabric, will skip cutting a thread.  When cutting a
thin
> >silk, it's REALLY maddening!  But scissors with nicks in the blades will
still
> >cut most paper just fine.
>
> Now THOSE are really _good_ points.
>
> I remember hearing once (again, this may just be a legend :) that someone
took a survey on the question: "What's the one thing you remember your
mother always saying?" Some incredibly high percentage (like 70%?) of people
answered with "Not my good sewing scissors!"
>
> (As usual, I had to be different: it's "Brush your hair, dear.")
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> 0  Chris Laning
> |  <claning@igc.org>
> +  Davis, California
> ____________________________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Dec 31 14:58:17 2003
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Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 11:57:43 -0800
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: scissors (and my new plans for my Softouchs)
From: Lynn Downward <LDownward@chori.org>
To: h costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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This spring problem - and solution - with the Fiskars is a really good thing
to know. I love my Softouch scissors and I'd hate to be without them, but I
could use my old 'best' Weiss scissors while they were away for repairs.

I'm going to need those scissors really soon. I just found out that my
husband wants to join a single action shooting society in California and
plans to take us all to their big 'shoot' at the end of April. Now I'm
looking at Laughing Moon's patterns for his outfit. Thank goodness my corset
and bustle are already made, and I have already designed a dress for myself
and have the fabric. He needs a complete outfit; his 1870s British Navy
clothes won't do him any good at this event, and my girls need outfits too.
The planning is the part of costuming I like the best!

LynnD
(where are my back-up scissors?)

On 12/31/03 11:37 AM, "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu> wrote:

> I have three pair of these. Since I cut all kinds of fabric in the shop, I
> often find myself up short when a really sharp pair is required; there for,
> I will go out and pick up another pair to tide me over until the sharpener
> is in town.  My biggest problem is however, that the spring has a way of
> snapping.  Of course, the notions counter does not stock them.  I have found
> that if I send them back to Fiscars that they will replace the spring and
> send me a few spares.  When the same thing happened to the snippers, they
> even sent me a new pair! along with the repaired set. Great service!

> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Monday, December 29, 2003 4:22 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] Re: scissors
> 
> 
>> My expensive pair are Fiskars Softouch and are spring loaded.  They do not
>> have the two holes for the fingers.  You can see them here:
>> 
> http://www.westons.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Fiskars__Softouch__Scissors_6
> 44.html
>> I am left handed but do all my cutting with my right hand.  For years I
>> turned normal scissors upside down to cut.  My costume professor suggested
>> that I switch to the Softouch... then they cost about $45.  I see on this
>> webpage they are $37.50 now.  I have had this pair for about seven years
> and
>> not needed to sharpen them yet.  But I don't sew all the time.  They do
> take
>> some time to get used to using them... but it is worth it.  My hand no
>> longer hurts when I cut out things, even heavy fabrics.  The other nice
>> thing about the scissors is that they will lock into place with the switch
>> of a button.  Its the orange thing on the scissors image.  The pads on the
>> handles are really nice too.
>> 
>> Penny Ladnier
>> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
>> www.costumegallery.com
>> www.costumeclassroom.com
>

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Dec 31 15:06:19 2003
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Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 12:05:40 -0800
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: scissors
From: Lynn Downward <LDownward@chori.org>
To: h costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I agree! Several years ago I worked at the teddy bear factory in San
Francisco where they usually cut several layers of fur at a time with a band
saw made for textiles. The blades had to be replaced really often because of
the polyester fur. Even our big shears, used when we needed an extra paw or
ear or two, needed sharpening monthly. Nothing could keep an edge with that
stuff, and we used the best quality fake fur around at the time. We pretty
much had two pairs of scissors for each of us - one to work with and one
being sharpened at any given time.

And poly batting is just as bad!

However, when convincing my family to stay away from my scissors, I don't
mention poly being so hard on scissors.

LynnD


On 12/31/03 11:47 AM, "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu> wrote:

> Urban legend or not, I find that cutting fake fur a lot ( as in animal
> costumes) seemed to affect the blades more that paper.  Also, buckram,
> pellon and others of this type .
> Kathleen
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Chris Laning" <claning@igc.org>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Monday, December 29, 2003 3:28 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] Re: scissors
> 
> 
>> Carol wrote:
>> 
>>> Scissors are thought to get duller faster if you use them to cut paper
> (I
>>> don't know if this is true or not).
>> 
>> I've been wondering about this for a while. I know that it's often claimed
> that paper dulls good scissors, but has anyone ever run across any hard
> evidence one way or the other? Or is this an Urban Sewing Legend? <g>
>> 
>>> More importantly, paper scissors are often
>>> not cared for very well, and as "lesser" scissors might be used to cut a
> thin
>>> bit of wire, they might hit a staple, etc.  This causes nicks in the
> blade
>>> that, when cutting fabric, will skip cutting a thread.  When cutting a
> thin
>>> silk, it's REALLY maddening!  But scissors with nicks in the blades will
> still
>>> cut most paper just fine.
>> 
>> Now THOSE are really _good_ points.
>> 
>> I remember hearing once (again, this may just be a legend :) that someone
> took a survey on the question: "What's the one thing you remember your
> mother always saying?" Some incredibly high percentage (like 70%?) of people
> answered with "Not my good sewing scissors!"
>> 
>> (As usual, I had to be different: it's "Brush your hair, dear.")
>> 
>> ____________________________________________________________
>> 0  Chris Laning
>> |  <claning@igc.org>
>> +  Davis, California
>> ____________________________________________________________

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: scissors (and my new plans for my Softouchs)
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In a message dated 12/31/2003 3:00:03 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
LDownward@chori.org writes:
My biggest problem is however, that the spring has a way of
> snapping.
I've never had this problem, and I got my first pair about 7 years ago.  
Maybe I don't use them enough, and I very seldom cut really heavy stuff.

Ann Wass
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cussin' Janet Arnold again...Women's loose
	gown	sleeve-anyone else tried it?
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>I am not a professional. But my father runs a museum in deep south Texas.
>I know, big whoop, but they have textiles there.

Don't sell yourself short.  Yes big whoop, for every serious museum anywhere.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
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Christmas was, in general, a little lean this year but, for me, a most 
wonderful early gift was being chosen for the Grand Prize at the 
Dicken's Faire Costume Competition this year!!!

My husband took some photos spanning the 3 weekends that we went:

http://www.misc.com/costumes/Dickens_0312/index.php

I'm in the second-to-last row, middle picture, of the photo page. I'm in 
the striped maroon/pink/yellow dress with the chevroned bodice.

This whole thing took 6 months to assemble, with the 
encouragement/advice, along the way, of my husband, of a world-class 
historical costumer, and from Kayta Barrows at the Faire itself!!


Theresa Eacker

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Dec 31 16:51:18 2003
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Sorry for the cross posts..

 

http://www.forum-hes.nl/forum/main_stocklist.phtml/view/5959?view=yes

 

I am looking for portraits with sleeves similar to the one at the above
link.   This is supposedly a Belgian woman.  I am referring to the short
sleeves on the loose gown of the woman second to the left.  The Phoenix
Portrait is as close as I have come..anyone else?


Saragrace

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I should specify that I am looking specifically for the high arched sleeve
cap.

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Saragrace T. Knauf [mailto:saragrace@earthlink.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2003 2:51 PM
To: 'h-costume@mail.indra.com'
Cc: 'thefrazzledfrau@yahoogroups.com'; 'GermanRenCostume@yahoogroups.com'
Subject: Anyone seen portraits with sleeves like these?

 

Sorry for the cross posts..

 

http://www.forum-hes.nl/forum/main_stocklist.phtml/view/5959?view=yes

 

I am looking for portraits with sleeves similar to the one at the above
link.   This is supposedly a Belgian woman.  I am referring to the short
sleeves on the loose gown of the woman second to the left.  The Phoenix
Portrait is as close as I have come..anyone else?


Saragrace

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That's a really terrific dress! I haven't made anything from that era
yet, but I certainly admire your skills in getting those stripes to make
those gorgeous chevrons. And the total look is very fetching, you look
like a fashion print from the period. Well done!



Karen



On Wed, 31 Dec 2003 13:46:55 -0800 Theresa Eacker <theresa@misc.com>
writes:
> Christmas was, in general, a little lean this year but, for me, a 
> most 
> wonderful early gift was being chosen for the Grand Prize at the 
> Dicken's Faire Costume Competition this year!!!
> 
> My husband took some photos spanning the 3 weekends that we went:
> 
> http://www.misc.com/costumes/Dickens_0312/index.php
> 
> I'm in the second-to-last row, middle picture, of the photo page. 
> I'm in 
> the striped maroon/pink/yellow dress with the chevroned bodice.
> 
> This whole thing took 6 months to assemble, with the 
> encouragement/advice, along the way, of my husband, of a world-class 
> 
> historical costumer, and from Kayta Barrows at the Faire itself!!
> 
> 
> Theresa Eacker
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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> 
> 

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This one is similar:
http://elizabethangeek.com/costumereview/image.mhtml?image_id=6

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This one is similar:
http://elizabethangeek.com/costumereview/image.mhtml?image_id=6

K.
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Dec 31 17:19:21 2003
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Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 16:16:43 -0600
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Anyone seen portraits with sleeves like these?
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The term I am familiar with for those sleeves is 'mahoitered' and they
are fairly common on English, Spanish, and French fashions of the 1560's
and 70's. 

I don't have any online sources to hand but here are some literary
references-

"Elizabethan Pagentry" by H.K. Morse

Page 23: Portait of a Lady by Antonio Moro
Page 27: Young Woman 1564 by Lucas Cranach the Younger

Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd by Janet Arnold

Page 7: #6 Queen Elizabeth receiving the Dutch Ambassadors (1570-75)
                   the ladies sitting on the floor to the right of the
painting all seem
                   to have mahoitered sleeves.
Page 55: #93 Unknown Lady Aged 29 (1557) by Hans Eworth
Page 133: #211 Pierre de Moucheron and Wife- detail (1563)
Page 134: #212 Lady Anne Penruddocke Aged 20 (1557) by Hans Eworth 
Page 139: #222 Lady Aged 30, Called Queen Elizabeth (1563) Anonymous
Page 140: #224 Margaret of Parma (1562) by Antonio Mor
Page 154: #243 Queen E and the # Goddesses-detail (1569) by HE


That should get you started! 8-)


Karen


On Wed, 31 Dec 2003 14:50:59 -0700 "Saragrace T. Knauf"
<saragrace@earthlink.net> writes:
> Sorry for the cross posts..
> 
>  
> 
> http://www.forum-hes.nl/forum/main_stocklist.phtml/view/5959?view=yes
> 
>  
> 
> I am looking for portraits with sleeves similar to the one at the 
> above
> link.   This is supposedly a Belgian woman.  I am referring to the 
> short
> sleeves on the loose gown of the woman second to the left.  The 
> Phoenix
> Portrait is as close as I have come..anyone else?
> 
> 
> Saragrace
> 
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> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Anyone seen portraits with sleeves like these?
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And this one, too.

http://elizabethangeek.com/costumereview/image.mhtml?image_id=84


Karen

On Wed, 31 Dec 2003 17:15:57 -0500 Kirrily Skud Robert
<skud@infotrope.net> writes:
> 
> This one is similar:
> http://elizabethangeek.com/costumereview/image.mhtml?image_id=6
> 
> K.
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> 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>, h-costume@indra.com
From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Anyone seen portraits with sleeves like these?
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I've been working out the patterning of this sleeve style for inclusion in
my upcoming loose gown pattern.  

The Arnold rendition, admittedly, doesn't match up well and produces an
"off" shape. This may be in part due to the fact that it's a reconstruction
of a centuries old garment. Anyone who's ever tried to take a pattern off a
garment that's been well worn knows how fabric can distort with time ansd
wearing, so I suppose it's not surprising that this sleeve may have done
so. However, the pieces as shown in Arnold do give a clue as to how to
pattern this sleeve.

What I've come up with is a three part sleeve.  No fullness is added at
either the armsceye or the sleeve's lower edge, it's all in the middle of
the three sections, which swell out in a sort of "vase" shape to give
ienough fullness to create the high, almost peaked sleeve cap. This
swelling could be cut with a pointed shape if a very extreme peaked cap is
desired.   A separate band is sewn to the lower edge to make a cuff.  The
vertical seams are covered with trim, or can have bands of fabric inserted
between them, which seems to be what's happeninmg on the Arnold sleeve.
The whole thing is tacked to a base sleeve and the space between the two is
stuffed to keep the shape. 

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"

www.margospatterns.com
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	loose	gown	sleeve-anyone else tried it?
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I talked to the lady who handles the Bob Trump books (Annotated 
Arnold and Doublet and Trunkhose at least) and she said that the 
address I gave for Alfarhaugr Press is no longer correct. She said 
that Bob can handle them (and those requests he doesn't want to 
handle personally he sends to her). So, Bob is probably the first 
best choice. (She's extremely busy these days and asked that I not 
put her address or name on the list.)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Dec 31 21:18:50 2003
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   Anyone know of a good period clothier in the Dallas/Fort Worth area?
I'm in Hurst and I need someone that can pull off mid 1500's Scottish
highland nobility correctly. I have to clothe myself, the wife, an 11
year old son, a 3 1/2 year old daughter, and eventually a mother in
law.   :o)
Cheers,
Joe
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Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 19:58:22 -0700
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Subject: [h-cost] Mahoitered or Manhoitered sleeve was:Anyone seen portraits
	with sleeves like these?
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This is a combined response to several different lists. 

 

Yes, thank you.you are correct.  It is a new word for me.  I couldn't find
it (either spelling)  in the OED or Middle English Compendium.  A web search
on either spelling (Mahoitered) Each only turns up one hit....  The only
book I have found it in thus far is the Pictorial Encyclopedia of Fashion
where they are described as 'padded and bolster shoulders'.   This book says
it was most exaggerated in Burgundian fashions.

 

The picture they use to illustrate it is from a 15th century playing
card.which strikes me as Burgundian or German though the book doesn't say
where it is from.  This picture is on page 526 of my edition and here the
shape is achieved with heavy gathering in the sleeve cap.  I have managed to
recreate the more stylized version without the gathering...but it is
achieved by using a two part sleeve.  

 

Thanks for your help all, I will report back with what I find.

 

Sg

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Georgeren2@aol.com [mailto:Georgeren2@aol.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2003 2:57 PM
To: thefrazzledfrau@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [F-Frau] Anyone seen portraits with sleeves like these?

 

In a message dated 12/31/2003 1:51:55 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
saragrace@earthlink.net writes:
http://www.forum-hes.nl/forum/main_stocklist.phtml/view/5959?view=yes
Aren't those Manhoitered Sleeves?

Patrice Betancur


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Dec 31 22:28:32 2003
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Subject: [h-cost] Loose Gown sleeve-POF...Margo...
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Which shape are you trying to get to Margo?  I've noticed that sleeve in the
photo of the extant gown is more rounded than the way she draws it, and that
the pattern leans that way as well.  I like the shape that she drew and see
it in several different portraits.  (Of course there are variations all
over).  I have succeeded in producing the very stylized shape (from the
Bruyn woodcuts on pages 9 and 45) with a two part sleeve.  The part attached
to the top of the armscye itself is shaped much like a crescent roll.  Then
the other part (which is not gathered either) is attached to that....there
is a band of boning that runs over the seam from one side of the arm to the
other....

I too have set it over a 'normal' base sleeve and stuffed it....

This is fun!! 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Margo Anderson
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2003 4:17 PM
To: Historical Costume; h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Anyone seen portraits with sleeves like these?

I've been working out the patterning of this sleeve style for inclusion in
my upcoming loose gown pattern.  

The Arnold rendition, admittedly, doesn't match up well and produces an
"off" shape. This may be in part due to the fact that it's a reconstruction
of a centuries old garment. Anyone who's ever tried to take a pattern off a
garment that's been well worn knows how fabric can distort with time ansd
wearing, so I suppose it's not surprising that this sleeve may have done
so. However, the pieces as shown in Arnold do give a clue as to how to
pattern this sleeve.

What I've come up with is a three part sleeve.  No fullness is added at
either the armsceye or the sleeve's lower edge, it's all in the middle of
the three sections, which swell out in a sort of "vase" shape to give
ienough fullness to create the high, almost peaked sleeve cap. This
swelling could be cut with a pointed shape if a very extreme peaked cap is
desired.   A separate band is sewn to the lower edge to make a cuff.  The
vertical seams are covered with trim, or can have bands of fabric inserted
between them, which seems to be what's happeninmg on the Arnold sleeve.
The whole thing is tacked to a base sleeve and the space between the two is
stuffed to keep the shape. 

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"

www.margospatterns.com
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Dec 31 22:47:19 2003
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Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 22:45:35 -0500
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From: Brenda Bell <webwarren@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] Rag curls?? was:17th century poodle hair
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Kat's rag curls and Teena's pin-curls and suddenly I think we're beginning 
to date ourselves!

I used to use the foam rollers to do banana curls when I was in grade 
school, but by the time I was in 8th grade (1973-74), stick-straight hair 
was the "in" thing, and we used to *wrap* our hair to make it straight! 
Shortly after that, blow-driers became common (as did the "wedge" cut), and 
hardly any of my peers *ever* bothered with rollers after that!


Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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At Sun, 28 Dec 2003 13:06:17 EST, AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

>I'm left-handed, and got a pair of Wiss shears for my birthday years ago.
>They were my shears of choice until I discovered Ginghers.

Note to all right-handers: because most dressmaker shears have molded 
handles, lefties *need* left-handed shears. The right-handed ones will 
leave a lefty with nasty open blisters on her thumb knuckle, plus very sore 
hands. Learning this from painful experience as my hands grew to "adult" 
size got me my first pair of left-handed dressmaker shears (Singers) for my 
12th birthday. These are by and large my favorite *dressmaker shears*.

>I understand that Ginghers are the only shears to reverse the blades as 
>well as the handles for left-handers.

I've used Ginghers (and own two pair), but I can't *stand* the reversed 
blades! I find the reversed blades force me to cut on the wrong side of the 
cutting line where I can't see the cutting line so I don't know what I'm 
cutting. VERY bad...

>Meantime, I won as a door prize a pair of the Fiskars with squeeze handles 
>that look kind of
>like garden shears.  I love these and tend to use them more than my Ginghers.
>Handedness is not a big issue with them,

Frank got me a set of these (large and small) several years ago. They're 
really nice, except that as they get older, the lock that keeps them closed 
gets weak, and they'll pop open at the slightest provocation. Though I did 
find that Fiskars makes inexpensive sheathes for them which are available 
at Jo-Ann's...

>And as to pinking shears, the Ginghers are the ONLY left-handed pair I have
>found that works at all.

I've never gotten into pinking shears. If a fabric is so unstable that it 
needs its edges finished, pinking them is *not* going to help, in my 
experience, so I don't use the pinking shears. OTOH, I suspect they could 
work well for notching outside-curve seams quickly? Mostly, I find pinking 
shears too heavy and hard to use, though...




Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] Rag curls?? was:17th century poodle hair
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 23:28:08 -0500
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Hey now... I was trying to be retro!   ;-)

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Brenda Bell" <webwarren@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2003 10:45 PM
Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] Rag curls?? was:17th century poodle hair


> Kat's rag curls and Teena's pin-curls and suddenly I think we're beginning
> to date ourselves!
>
> I used to use the foam rollers to do banana curls when I was in grade
> school, but by the time I was in 8th grade (1973-74), stick-straight hair
> was the "in" thing, and we used to *wrap* our hair to make it straight!
> Shortly after that, blow-driers became common (as did the "wedge" cut),
and
> hardly any of my peers *ever* bothered with rollers after that!
>
>
> Brenda
> webwarren@earthlink.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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>

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Subject: [h-cost] Bob Trunk and Green Duck Designs... was Cussin' Janet
	Arnold again...
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At 05:23 PM 12/31/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>I talked to the lady who handles the Bob Trump books (Annotated
>Arnold and Doublet and Trunkhose at least) and she said that the
>address I gave for Alfarhaugr Press is no longer correct. She said
>that Bob can handle them (and those requests he doesn't want to
>handle personally he sends to her). So, Bob is probably the first
>best choice. (She's extremely busy these days and asked that I not
>put her address or name on the list.)
>
>Kat
><kat@redtrollforge.com>


Hi Kat and all,

I have the Doublet and Trunkhose book, which I bought from Green Duck 
Designs a few years ago when they were at a local Ren Faire. I really like 
that book, and was going to use it for my husband's new garb. I thought 
Green Duck had an online store, but I don't see that anymore. Anyone know 
what happened to them, because I thought maybe they would be an alternate 
source for the Bob Trump books.

Now I am interested in the Annotated Arnold book. Kat, do you have contact 
info for Bob for his books? I may have missed it if it was posted. Or 
another source for the books?

TIA,

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

Costume Mistress for Isle of Mann Guild
Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
http://www.costumegallery.com 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ft. Worth area costumer
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At 08:17 PM 12/31/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>    Anyone know of a good period clothier in the Dallas/Fort Worth area?
>I'm in Hurst and I need someone that can pull off mid 1500's Scottish
>highland nobility correctly. I have to clothe myself, the wife, an 11
>year old son, a 3 1/2 year old daughter, and eventually a mother in
>law.   :o)
>Cheers,
>Joe


I sure wish I did Joe. If I hear of anyone from a friend of mine who grew 
up in the area, I will pass it on.

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

Costume Mistress for Isle of Mann Guild
Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
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At 01:46 PM 12/31/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>Christmas was, in general, a little lean this year but, for me, a most 
>wonderful early gift was being chosen for the Grand Prize at the Dicken's 
>Faire Costume Competition this year!!!


Wow Theresa, that is an incredible dress. Congratulations!

Kimiko



Kimiko Small
Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

Costume Mistress for Isle of Mann Guild
Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
http://www.costumegallery.com 

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Anyone tried a beaver bucket?
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Status: RO

    Not quite sure why we're discussing cooperage on an historic costume
list, but hey, who am I to quibble? :-)

> Hi, All. Lisa, I would hope that a washtub could be gotten for less than
> that, especially since the ones shown were banded with steel, and not
> withy as would have been proper for you to use for 16th Cent.

    Withy (or withe) hooping, as steel, is appropriate, according to our
extensive research, back into Roman times. Withe hooping is inherently
unstable, and from what our research indicates was used primarly in areas
where access to more durable steel (iron) hooping was not, and as protective
hooping over the chime and bulge (or bilge) hoops on double-headed casks
(barrels, etc.)

    One must be careful when observing woodcuts, paintings and sketches as
much of what appears to be withe hooping (appearing as half-round hoops) is
in fact forged iron rod, flatened on one side. In artists' renderings this
hooping often is mistaken by modern eyes as withe.

    That is not to say withe wasn't used. It definitely was. Just not quite
with the proliferation, we believe, as many would have us believe.

I know
> that iron banding was being done, as it shows up on ships manifests in
> the early 17th Cent. for things being shipped to the New World, but a
> coopered tub can be done with (slightly) slack coopering, letting the
> swelling of the wood close the gaps.

    Sorry to disagree here, but slack cooperage is never meant to be
water-tight. It was and is today considered low-end cooperage, one-use
cooperage for the shipment of goods such as salted fish, pork, beef, nails,
powder kegs - in short any sort of commodity requiring a container.

    Moreover, if one is dealing with oak cooperage, which most quality tight
cooperage is (there are certainly exceptions depending upon region and use),
while there can be a great deal of movement in the staves, generally casks
were and are never allowed to dry out. Pine cooperage, mostly appearing in
the form of whiteware (domestic cooperage such as tubs, pails, buckets,
etc.) is far more forgiving of the drying process. It should be noted most
slack cooperage was and is produced from pine and spruce.

    For anyone interested in how to take care of cooperage I suggest you
visit our website. We have posted an information page for people on the Care
of Cooperage.

    And as a sidebar, and what would appear to be a blatant plug, we produce
and ship some of the finest historical cooperage in North America, supplying
re-enactors, museums and living history sites such as Fort Delaware, Sharlot
Hall, Mansker's Station, Grand Portage, L'anse aux Meadows, to name a few.
The waiting list is long, I'm afraid, 11 months at this point, but we
believe worth the wait.

Regards
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage
fine hand-sewn embroidered garments, historical sewing patterns & embroidery
supplies
(519) 799-5577, http://www.5rivers.org  email: info@5rivers.org

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Subject: tinted starches for ruffs- Re: [h-cost] Re: Anyone tried a beaver
	bucket?
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Lorina wrote:


>     Not quite sure why we're discussing cooperage on an historic costume
> list, but hey, who am I to quibble? :-)
>
Thanks for the info.  I had a look at your site and the tubs are very nice.
(I need them for washing ruffs at faire as in the Apes Monkeying the Fashion
Engraving)  The waiting list might be a problem for me as I am making a
decided effort to get a Starch House up and running for the next fair
season.

This weekend (minus Friday) I'm working on developing some tinted starches
made from natural dyes.  It's the subject of my new blog -
http://www.thrednedlestrete.com/cfblog/index.cfm and I'm sort of winging it
lacking any references for tinting starch but I'll see what I come up with.

I'd be interested in hearing any tips from anyone who was ever tried this
before or something similar, references would be great!  I have done quite a
bit of research on the starch industry but not the dyeing industry which
might shed some light on this process.  At the moment I have a range of dye
material* and am soaking/boiling it or whatever according to the
recommendations in the book "Wild Color" by Jenny Dean for extracting color
and straining it to get the waste out then will mix the coloured water with
starch and dehydrate it, leaving tinted starch.  I also plan on just getting
the pigment into water adding starch and cooking it right there and then for
use, but I'd like to actually produce tinted starch to have on hand at fair
as it could be purchased by the pound for use by laundresses back in the
16th century.

Also, lacking pictorial evidence of coloured ruffs, I have no idea just how
dark the tinted starch should be or how colourful the finished ruff..  It's
going to be trial and error and personal judgement I think.  Always
interested in hearing the opionions of others!!


Lisa Sinervo
www.thrednedlestrete.com

* saffron, safflower petals, cherry bark, comfrey leaves, turmick, hisbiscus
flowers, rubarb root and will pick up some indigo and madder root on
Saturday.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bob Trump and Green Duck Designs... was Cussin'
	Janet	Arnold again...
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> Now I am interested in the Annotated Arnold book. Kat, do you have
> contact info for Bob for his books? I may have missed it if it was
> posted. Or another source for the books?

I wasn't the one who posted that information. Perhaps she'll do it 
again. (Since I haven't personally asked him for permission to give 
it out, I'll leave that to someone who has done so.)

As far as I know, Green Duck is now completely defunct. His wife 
still sells limited books at events as "Jane's Books" but I know they 
haven't been asking for shipments from Alfarhaugr.

I'll send your message on to my contact at Alfarhaugr while you are 
waiting for Bob's Address.

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] Rag curls?? was:17th century poodle hair
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> Hey now... I was trying to be retro!   ;-)
> 
> > Kat's rag curls and Teena's pin-curls and suddenly I think we're
> > beginning to date ourselves!

Hey, I'm proud that I've made it intact to the age I am! 

I've never had much luck with pin-curls even when my hair was short 
(which was only 3 times in my life). My hair is far too heavy to stay 
put without a lot of "product." And the last time I used "product" to 
that extent (to get that slicked-back look from 1998) I ended up with 
major hair damage from it. 

It didn't look like there was anything in it that could do it, but 
the hair bleached out and then cracked off. I ended up having to have 
short hair for the 3rd time, and believe me, I wasn't happy about it!

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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----- Original Message ----- 
From: <kat@grendal.rain.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2004 12:54 PM
Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] Rag curls?? was:17th century poodle hair


>
> > Hey now... I was trying to be retro!   ;-)
> >
> > > Kat's rag curls and Teena's pin-curls and suddenly I think we're
> > > beginning to date ourselves!
>
> Hey, I'm proud that I've made it intact to the age I am!
>

I am proud to be the age I am too! I was 29 again this year!

It reminds me of a scene from the show The Nanny:
Girl: How old are you, Fran?
Fran: Let's put it this way... When you are 20, I'll be 40. And when you are
30, I'll be 40. And when you are 40, you'll understand why I'm still 40.

OCC: I have been wearing clothing for... err.... 29 years.

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Ah, I remember rag curls.  Ouch!  From the time I was 4 until I was
about 7 my mother put my hair up in rag curls every Saturday night and
then my father would take them out Sunday morning (boy was I grumpy
Sunday mornings, never did manage to sleep well with those darn knots
all over my head) and carefully comb each curl so tht I looked like
Shirley Temple(no I'm not that old).  I then got to spend the next 36
hours delighting in making my curls bob and bounce.
Margaret

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Hi, All. Sorry for the misnomer, Lorina is correct, slack cooperage is 
for dried goods, not wet. I used it in a non-proper way because I 
couldn't think of another way to explain the idea that cooperage is 
meant to be kept wet, and that withies are certainly less constricting 
than bands. However, I will disagree heartily with the idea that iron 
bands (whether d shaped or otherwise) are in any way representative of 
withy. There are plenty of archaeological finds that show cooperage with 
withies prior to the 17th Cent., (Mary Rose, Venetian/Yugoslavian, 
Dutch, German, etc.) and none that I know of off the top of my head 
besides Viking age (Oseborg) that have either iron bands or forged iron 
rods (besides the many well-painted representations from a number of 
well-known painters of the Renaissance that show what I had always 
understood to be withy banding). The manifests that I refer to as being 
early 17th Cent. were used by Plimoth Plantation when explaining their 
use of banded cooperage, especially since one of their main characters 
at the site is a cooper, but they also have representations of withied 
cooperage there. The abovementioned material from the Mary Rose et al 
are actually archaeological deposits I am referring to, as opposed to 
paintings and engravings. On the other side, however, Lorina, this is in 
no way taking away from your well made products. I just find the notion 
that paintings of cooperage with withy hoops, backed up by 
archaeological evidence of the same, could be mistaken for iron rod 
stock, especially in an age that, while iron was not such a dear 
commodity as we may have been led to believe in our gradeschools, was 
still useful enough to not be wasted (or not fashioned in a way as to 
conserve materials) when other materials or methods would suffice. 
Please don't take this as an affront in any way, I just wanted to 
correct any errors in understanding I might have created. On a 
historical costuming note, though, I am always amazed how modern 
perceptions of methods of manufacture of all aspects of clothing 
culture, from felt for hats to leather for shoes, weaving to lacemaking, 
affect how we all see and value our past. The recent posting of a Viking 
woman's dress interested me to look at the whole site. I was also 
looking at an english Viking group's site, and their authenticity person 
was telling the story of how they went from a group interested only in 
fighting (how to make gauntlets and helms) to a group that would be 
proud to go to schools and public events and call themselves Vikings. He 
admitted that it was based mostly on the available evidence (in this 
case archaeological, mostly, as accurate pictorial representations of 
clothing and such were rare to nonexistant). I am looking forward to 
speaking to Robin Netherton when I get to her lecture, as this area is 
one of her specialties (art as representation rather than fact). Cheers, 
Mike T.


>  
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] So, What'd ya get?
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>Christmas was, in general, a little lean this year but, for me, a most 
>wonderful early gift was being chosen for the Grand Prize at the Dicken's 
>Faire Costume Competition this year!!!
>
>My husband took some photos spanning the 3 weekends that we went:
>
>http://www.misc.com/costumes/Dickens_0312/index.php
>
>I'm in the second-to-last row, middle picture, of the photo page. I'm in 
>the striped maroon/pink/yellow dress with the chevroned bodice.
>
>This whole thing took 6 months to assemble, with the encouragement/advice, 
>along the way, of my husband, of a world-class historical costumer, and 
>from Kayta Barrows at the Faire itself!!

I'm in the third row from the top inn the right-hand column, in another 
chevroned-1840-bodice dress, red and blue paisley stripe on white, with a 
printed down-market fake paisley shawl (period for lowlifes like my 
Dickens' character).


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: [h-cost] bobbin lace
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 Greetings, Anyone have a source for bobbin lace? The lace trim that I could use for edging. I've been searching around and can only find completed pieces like tablecloths or ornaments. I would love one day to start making bobbin lace myself but life interferes with my hobbies too much as it is, now. Thanks,Wendy

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Sandy,

I am sorry for answering late.  I had some minor surgery.... now it is
giving me back problems again.  Oh well, all this time in bed has given me
some time to crochet.

We do not have a Hobby Lobby.  Can you suggest somewhere else.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bob Trunk and Green Duck Designs... was Cussin'
	Janet Arnold again...
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>I thought Green Duck had an online store, but I don't see that anymore. 
>Anyone know what happened to them,

I saw them, as visitors, at Dickens' Fair this year, but didn't ask about 
Green Duck.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Christmas was, in general, a little lean this year but, for me, a most 
wonderful early gift was being chosen for the Grand Prize at the 
Dicken's Faire Costume Competition this year!!!

Theresa Eacker

*****************************************

Congratulations Theresa!  Your dress looks wonderful :).  And thanks
for posting the webpage with the photos, looks like you had some tough
competition.  KC had a Dicken's faire for about 3 years several years
ago.  The majority of the costumes were made by our local University rep
theater but I don't think we ever hit this level.  I wish the faire
would have continued, I think we would have improved.

Regarding Bob Trump;  I don't know if he teaches anymore but if he
does, take his class!  When he was active in the SCA he used to teach at
our university and one of the classes was on the errors in JA.  He was
dressed appropriately for the class and I think we learned just as much
from getting him to shed, layer by layer, the ensemble he was wearing. 
He was authentic right down to his 16th century boxers :).  Jose
(http://www.deserttorch.com/)  has worked with him and is another good
one for picking his brains, especially on men's costume.

And while it was not really a Christmas present, since it was the
season; I finally got a Bernina!  Our local store had a
not-to-be-passed-up end-of-year sale and I finally gave into temptation.
 My 30 year-old White will now be retired to back-up status.  I am
looking forward to playing with my new toy over the weekend :).

Catherine
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From: "Lisa Sinervo" <Lisa-list@thrednedlestrete.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <3FF38346.17ECBEB2@charter.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ft. Worth area costumer
Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 07:15:36 -0800
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Hope you're not feeling ignored, but I don't know any Ft. Worth area
costumers either.

Good luck,

Lisa Sinervo

----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Robertson" <joedr@charter.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2003 6:17 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Ft. Worth area costumer


>    Anyone know of a good period clothier in the Dallas/Fort Worth area?
> I'm in Hurst and I need someone that can pull off mid 1500's Scottish
> highland nobility correctly. I have to clothe myself, the wife, an 11
> year old son, a 3 1/2 year old daughter, and eventually a mother in
> law.   :o)
> Cheers,
> Joe
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Mari Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu>
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Subject: [h-cost] Anyone seen portraits with sleeves like these?...  yes &
 resourcces
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Hi there...  Yes... I have seen these sleeves before... but not in a 
portrait.  I've seen them in maps of the times as figures about the borders 
denoting what was worn by each level of society in that area.  <let me look>

OK some maps to look at ...
Barcelona 1567
Edinburgh 1581
Hamburg 1588
Cologne 1571

All these maps are out of the 16th century town plans from Braun & Hogenberg

Have fun.
Bridgette



>Sorry for the cross posts..
>
>
>
>http://www.forum-hes.nl/forum/main_stocklist.phtml/view/5959?view=yes
>
>
>
>I am looking for portraits with sleeves similar to the one at the above
>link.   This is supposedly a Belgian woman.  I am referring to the short
>sleeves on the loose gown of the woman second to the left.



Mari Stewart,  Cornell University, Ithaca, NY 

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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] bobbin lace-Attention Bjarne
Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 09:10:26 -0700
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I would try contacting a fellow list member named Bjarne...
drewscph@post12.tele.dk
he makes it himself, and may know better where to buy a commercial
substitute.  I'd be interested in his recommendations for something that
looks kinda' like it but isn't as expensive as hand made....

Sg

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Wendy
Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2004 10:45 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] bobbin lace

 Greetings, Anyone have a source for bobbin lace? The lace trim that I could
use for edging. I've been searching around and can only find completed
pieces like tablecloths or ornaments. I would love one day to start making
bobbin lace myself but life interferes with my hobbies too much as it is,
now. Thanks,Wendy




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A late What "Ja Get" from a lurker

I'm getting my sewing machine fixed for Christmas.  I think/I'm afraid I will need a new motherboard.

As always, it's a long story, and not a pretty one.  we have aluminum wiring in our house, and Seidels seem to throw off alot of electricity.   the neighborhood must have had a massive surge during a thunderstorm.  A neighbor lost much of his novel he was working on., Our washing machine blew it's motherboard.  My machine started only sewing backwards.  (Hades)

SOOO everyone who leaves their machine plugged in....go right now and buy a surge protector.  right now . Don't Wait.  Learn from my mistakes.

Mia Seidel Dappert  in Charlotte, NC

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Date: Fri, 02 Jan 2004 12:18:43 -0600
From: Leslie <calkum@usa.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [Re: [h-cost] Ft. Worth area costumer]
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Joe,

I don't know if this will help you, but you may try:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ScarboroughFaire2/
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/scarboroughfaireforever/

These are lists that are fans of Scarborough Faire and I know from being a
lurker there are some that are part of the Scottish Regiment. They may be able
to point you a direction.

Back to lurking,
Leslie


> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Joe Robertson" <joedr@charter.net>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2003 6:17 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] Ft. Worth area costumer
> 
> 
> >    Anyone know of a good period clothier in the Dallas/Fort Worth area?
> > I'm in Hurst and I need someone that can pull off mid 1500's Scottish
> > highland nobility correctly. I have to clothe myself, the wife, an 11
> > year old son, a 3 1/2 year old daughter, and eventually a mother in
> > law.   :o)
> > Cheers,
> > Joe
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 




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> WheeeeeeKKK!!! (Shrieks of glee) I got a  new Husquerna Platinum 770
sewing machine from my husband--bless his heart!!!!! It's great--but so
computerized I'm going to need classes just to figure out how to use it!!

When you do learn how to use it, you'll love it. I have a Lily 555 and it's
wonderful.
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From: "Five Rivers" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Anyone tried a beaver bucket?
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> However, I will disagree heartily with the idea that iron
> bands (whether d shaped or otherwise) are in any way representative of
> withy. There are plenty of archaeological finds that show cooperage with
> withies prior to the 17th Cent., (Mary Rose, Venetian/Yugoslavian,
> Dutch, German, etc.) and none that I know of off the top of my head
> besides Viking age (Oseborg) that have either iron bands or forged iron
> rods (besides the many well-painted representations from a number of
> well-known painters of the Renaissance that show what I had always
> understood to be withy banding).

    There is actually equally substantial archeological and pictorial
evidence of metal hooping on the Mary Rose, Diderot, Pyne, Fortress
Louisbourg and elsewhere. So I suppose we could debate back and forth
endlessly. :-) I'm not saying it's wrong to use withe, just that it's also
not wrong to use iron.

    There is also to consider that when we, as re-enactors, are considering
purchasing equipment with very hard-earned cash, it is important to
understand withe hooping is unstable. In period, any period, likelihood was
there was a cooper in your village or nearby who could repair your vessel.
Now, well, there are village coopers, but our 'village' has become somewhat
global and the attendant expense of shipping and waiting for repair can be
onerous to some. If choosing wood hooping it is our experience lathe is far
more stable than withe, and of course metal almost indestructable. So one
has to ask one-self: just how much fuss do I wish to undertake to care for
this investment in cooperage?

    If you're the kind of re-enactor who hauls out stuff for events only and
neglects it otherwise, withe hooping is not for you no matter how accurate
the portrayal. Lathe might even be questionable. It is important for people
to realize these are wooden vessels, which require care. Plastic and
indestructible (or nearly) and easily replaceable they're not. Having said
that, we still have and use Gary's second bucket produced 10 years ago. It's
still watertight. Much abused, because he's the cooper and knows how to fix
it, but it's still in use. It's metal hooped, BTW. :-) L'anse aux Meadows
still has lathe hooped cooperage (which they utterly abuse much to our
horror!) which was produced nine years ago. As far as withe cooperage, we've
had some hoops last up to seven years. Others have burst within two weeks.
And it's not as though quality of the withes is in question, because Gary is
the most picky, exacting man I've ever known, a true frustration to work
with sometimes if one is less than a perfectionist. ;-)

> Please don't take this as an affront in any way, I just wanted to
> correct any errors in understanding I might have created.

    Oh heavens, no offense taken. Love discussion and discovery. One is
never an expert. And one never learns it all. I would be thrilled, BTW, if
you could lead me to anywhere we could lay our hands on images of extant
cooperage from Plimouth. That would be great. We have original specs through
Parks Canada from Fortress Louisbourg (18th century) which is great, and
certainly from later from Fort Delaware, as elsewhere.

On a
> historical costuming note, though, I am always amazed how modern
> perceptions of methods of manufacture of all aspects of clothing
> culture, from felt for hats to leather for shoes, weaving to lacemaking,
> affect how we all see and value our past.

    Absolutely! One of my major insights occurred several years ago when I
began to do large scale historical embroidery using the same tools and
technologies as had been done back to the late 13th century (and likely
earlier, although I don't have evidence yet). After having completed several
pieces (garments and otherwise) I understood in an intimate manner why it is
professional embroiderers worked the way they did, and am still quite amazed
at the skill and quality one is able to achieve by following in their
footsteps. Very humbling. Let alone very invigorating. But then I'm one of
few who get totally excited by plain cloth begging for embroidery. Project
going to take two years? No problem. :-)

> He
> admitted that it was based mostly on the available evidence (in this
> case archaeological, mostly, as accurate pictorial representations of
> clothing and such were rare to nonexistant).

    Just so. The earlier in time we attempt to research the more difficult
and faint the path. But if we stick to it it is simply stunning the insights
we can gain not only of technology, but of culture, social mores, economic
status, etc. And if we take that research farther and dip into many
different time periods, I find I come away with a rather remarkable overview
that allows me to see the evolution and very logical reasons behind
technologies. Not just in textiles, but in so many other facets.

    I suppose one is either a history research junkie or one isn't. :-)

Regards
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage
fine hand-sewn embroidered garments, historical sewing patterns & embroidery
supplies
(519) 799-5577, http://www.5rivers.org  email: info@5rivers.org

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> My daughter said every one of her friends received Pirates too!  I guess
it
> was the #1 selling video last week.

Well, I got the old King and I, Shrek and LOTR : TT extended version, which
is much, much better than the short version.
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Heather wrote:
 
>The skin breeches I see on that page are the polar-bear skin ones 
>given in Hald -- am I missing another mention somewhere?  
 
As far as I know. You know more about them than I do. In fact, they don't, in my recollection, mention anywhere the original material they were made from. Someone had told me that they weren't textile.
 
>I'm a bit surprised to see the polar bear skin ones suggested as a >model for Viking clothing. 
 
They include a myriad of undergarments from various periods, that is how I came across them. I am also working on the Bocksten Bog Man right now, and am counfounded on undergarment issues. I was planning on using whatever came close and was easily constructed for a variety of reasons, but the bug was put in my ear to do a conjectural set of underwear for the suit, and the more I think about it, the more I am liking the idea. I have the time right now to research and develop the pattern, so why not? Since this waaayy out of my period, and I am not really knowledgeable on menswear overall, any points in the right direction are well appreciated from anyone. 
 
 >Hald includes them as comparative material in her 
>discussion about the possible evolution of the trouser cut seen in 
>several Iron Age garments, but the skin garment itself is of native 
>Greenlander, not Viking, origin.  
 
I've seen this cross back and forth quite a bit in my research thus far.
 
>If you follow Hald's reasoning, she's suggesting that a handful of 
>garments from the first couple of centuries of the common era may 
>have inherited their particular cut from even earlier styles made 
>from skins, where the cut was retained when the reason for it had 
>been lost. 
 
If I am to understand your meaning, that the cut of trousers evolved slower than most based on the use of this type of material, until it was replaced with textile?
 
>wish that the Viking-Experience page mentioned a few 
>of these issues
 
In a perfect world, every website would be fully annotated and bibliographies would be supplied, and the writers of said websites would answer their emails within a reasonable period of time! Such a frustration for those of us who can't get out of the house often and have a very limited library when we do.
 
Kathy



---------------------------------
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OUCH!  Why I keep a few old machines around- nothing can kill a Singer model
66 or 15, so they are always available, even if the newer one needs a shop
visit.
-Megan

Ellen Dappert had written:
I'm getting my sewing machine fixed for Christmas.  I think/I'm afraid I
will need a new motherboard. <snip>  SOOO everyone who leaves their machine
plugged in....go right now and buy a surge protector.  right now . Don't
Wait.  Learn from my mistakes.

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Thanks much!
Joe
---
Joe Robertson, Psy.D.
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Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2004 12:26:40 -0500
From: "J.A.Urbik" <jaurbik@optonline.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Mongolian Dells
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Hello All

Well, I am off to a start on a new and somewhat different project.  I 
have completed my first outfit following Drea Leed's Flemish outfit 
nicely.  No pictures, and i have to redo something before i can relace 
the outer gown, b ut a friend of mine said that "with the apron and the 
hat thing, the outfit looks just like the paintings" , which i can only 
take as a complement to Drea's excellent instructions!

Anyway, while i plan on making several more over and under gowns, and 
selves and partlets, and aprons, and etc. (i want several complete sets 
before next pennsic that i go to) I promised 
husband/sister-in-law/sister in law's kids that the next project would 
be a couple of dells.  They below to a household that tries to to a 
bunch of mongolian stuff.  I know *NOTHING* about mongolian stuff.  Not 
quite sure what time period, but i would assume around Gengihs Khan 
would be the time period i am looking for.

I do know that silk would be the best fabric to use, but what kinds 
(raw, brocade, noil, charmuse, etc)?  What should the decorations look 
like, what would be good colors, etc?  What would be some good web pages 
or books to interlibrary loan?

I have bought and received the folkwear pattern for " #114 Chinese 
Jacket" -- http://www.folkwear.com/asian.html  (have lost it in my house 
but am SURE that i will find it), and thought that I would use the short 
jacket with the asymmetrical opening.

I do have a couple of constraints.  I would like to NOT do it in the 
heavily patterned silk brocade.  my husband does not like the patterns 
and the fabric is not appropriate for small kids i don't think.

Any help or ideas would be much appreciated.





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In a message dated 1/2/2004 9:56:34 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
megan@benchite.com writes:
go right now and buy a surge protector.  right now . 
Thanks for the warning.  I've had my machine plugged in to a serge protector, 
simply for the convenience of it as an extension cord, and had not thought 
about the machine's vulnerability.  I'll definitely keep it plugged in there, 
then.

Ann Wass
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mongolian Dells
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On Saturday 03 January 2004 12:26 pm, J.A.Urbik wrote:

> I promised
> husband/sister-in-law/sister in law's kids that the next project would
> be a couple of dells.  They below to a household that tries to to a
> bunch of mongolian stuff.  I know *NOTHING* about mongolian stuff.  Not
> quite sure what time period, but i would assume around Gengihs Khan
> would be the time period i am looking for.
[snip]

> Any help or ideas would be much appreciated.

For information on "Mongolian folk costume" (seems to be mostly late 19th 
early 20th c), see:

http://www.skiouros.net/varia/ncmpr/

(pictures are separate links at the bottom of the page, they each open into a 
new window)

This page refers to a del by name, though it's "patterns" are sketchy at best:

http://hometown.aol.com/noramunro/MongolDress/

This page is by an SCA member into the Mongolians.   I believe it replicates 
the information in the issue of Compleat Anachronist on Mongol medieval dress 
and may be more helpful than the above:

http://members.tripod.com/~whitebard/bibli54.htm

I believe she is calling "caftan" what other sources would call a "del" or 
"dell".  Good luck!

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Anything's within walking distance if you have the time." -Steven Wright
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In a message dated 1/3/2004 12:29:20 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
jaurbik@optonline.net writes:
What would be some good web pages 
or books to interlibrary loan?
Try:
Mongolia: The Legacy of Chinggis Khan, by Patricia Berger and Terese Tse 
Bartholomew.  1995: Asian Art Museum of San Francisco.  This was a catalogue for 
the exhibit that also was mounted at the National Geographic Society in 
Washington.  CSA members got to tour the exhibit with the ambassador from Mongolia 
and his family.  It was great!

Ann Wass
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Christmas and circuit breakers
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On Saturday 03 January 2004 02:58 pm, AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 1/2/2004 9:56:34 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> megan@benchite.com writes:
> go right now and buy a surge protector.  right now .
> Thanks for the warning.  I've had my machine plugged in to a serge
> protector, simply for the convenience of it as an extension cord, and had
> not thought about the machine's vulnerability.  I'll definitely keep it
> plugged in there, then.
>
>
Yes.

My husband is a programmer so we've had surge protectors for a long time.  
It's especially important around here, because power usage gets so high in 
the summer (and thunderstorms so common) that surges and fluctuations in 
power are routine.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Anything's within walking distance if you have the time." -Steven Wright
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Subject: [h-cost] Folkwear chinese jacket
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I made that jacket when I was in high school, asymmetrical opening and all
-- still have it, as a matter of fact. I gave it to my daughter to use as
play clothes but she never did, so I got it back. I made it from plain, dark
blue cotton broadcloth with sleeve turnbacks made of cotton printed to look
like a cloudy sky, and I embroidered a round medallion to put on the front
(per the instructions) and made fabric frogs. I can't remember anything
except that I didn't have any trouble following the directions, and it
worked perfectly and looked good. That's why I still have it, though I never
wore it anywhere -- it's too pretty to give away. I was not a great sewer by
any means.  I just thought that might encourage you!

Gail Finke


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From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mongolian Dells
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At 12:26 PM 1/3/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>I do know that silk would be the best fabric to use, but what kinds (raw, 
>brocade, noil, charmuse, etc)?

Hiya!

I don't know much about silk, but I would suggest a great book on the 
subject, _All About Silk, A Fabric Dictionary & Swatchbook_ by Julie 
Parker. The best price I found it for, besides at eBay once, is at Denver 
Fabrics for $24.50
http://www.denverfabrics.com/pages/static/Silk/silk-fabrics-books.htm

Having just got the book myself for Xmas, it is wonderful and I now have a 
better idea of what kind of silks would work best for a Ren Faire nobles 
outfit, either crepe, crepon or a twill/gaberdine, because they would wear 
better. Satin is the best and probably historically accurate I am sure, but 
it doesn't wear very well, and you know how rough faire or SCA time can be 
on historical garments.

The book not only describes the different silks, but tells you what kind of 
garments would work best for each type of silk fabric, and how well the 
fabric wears, and where the fabric may wear out on a garment, whether to 
dry clean or hand wash, and a bunch of definitions and terms. Not to 
mention the swatches that allow you to touch each type of silk so you know 
what you are reading about. Very worth getting, especially if like me you 
don't have much of a silk selection at nearby stores, so you have to buy 
online. Now I know what I am looking for and what the definitions usually mean.

Anyway, I was happy with the book, and I think it is worth getting for 
anyone who is wanting to get into silk fabrics and doesn't know much about 
silk.

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

Costume Mistress for Isle of Mann Guild
Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
http://www.costumegallery.com 

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Yes, I agree with you about the book All About Silk_, in fact i have a 
much paged though and added to (when i get samples in the mail from 
fabric mart or other stores, i try to add to my _all about wool_ or _all 
about silk_).

The one problem that I have with the book (as a help to historic 
costuming) is that it does not tell much about *when* weaves and such we 
most common.  but then, that is not the purpose of the book.  Like, 
would a "suit weight wool"   or a crepe be appropriate for a flemish 
market women's outfit?  I know wool is the correct fiber (from Drea) but 
how about worsted wool.   However, at least know i know what a worsted 
wool is!


By the way, i do heartily recommend the _All about wool_ book by the 
same author.  I love them!

Jordana

Kimiko Small wrote:
  _All About Silk, A Fabric Dictionary & Swatchbook_ by Julie
> Parker. The best price I found it for, besides at eBay once, is at 
> Denver Fabrics for $24.50
> http://www.denverfabrics.com/pages/static/Silk/silk-fabrics-books.htm
> 


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From: "J.A.Urbik" <jaurbik@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Folkwear chinese jacket
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Thanks for the encouragement.  I was sure that it would come out better 
if i used a pattern, even though every says you really don't need one. 
But i really like patters!  it seems that everything i try to do without 
a least a basic pattern to start on does not come out right.  i think it 
has to do with trying to fit on oneself.

As soon as i find it, i will be overjoyed to prove you right :)  At the 
moment, i think it is in the same place as socks go in the dryer.  i 
cleaned house for *8* hours yesterday, with no good effect (well, except 
that my house is clean....) trying to find the darn thing.  ok, a good 4 
hours of was spent striating my sewing area...

Jordana


Gail & Scott Finke wrote:

> I made that jacket when I was in high school, asymmetrical opening and all
...

  That's why I still have it, though I never
> wore it anywhere -- it's too pretty to give away. I was not a great sewer by
> any means.  I just thought that might encourage you!
> 
> Gail Finke
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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J.A.Urbik wrote:
> By the way, i do heartily recommend the _All about wool_ book by the 
> same author.  I love them!

I'll add my voice here as well. Great stuff.  Especially good for folks 
who learn by seeing examples.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

The FBI urged police officers to watch during searches, traffic stops 
and other investigations for anyone carrying almanacs, especially if the 
books are annotated in suspicious ways.  A person with an almanac "may 
point to possible terrorist planning."  -- Associated Press 12/29/03
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: _All about silk_  (was mongolian dells)
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On Sat, 3 Jan 2004, J.A.Urbik wrote:

> The one problem that I have with the book (as a help to historic
> costuming) is that it does not tell much about *when* weaves and such
> we most common.  but then, that is not the purpose of the book.  
> Like, would a "suit weight wool"  or a crepe be appropriate for a
> flemish market women's outfit?  I know wool is the correct fiber (from
> Drea) but how about worsted wool.  However, at least know i know what
> a worsted wool is!

Worsted wool is medieval and as far as I know was in continuous use since
then. I can't swear to it, as I don't specialize in the more recent
centuries, but I'd be mighty surprised if that was not the case. I use
worsteds often for medieval clothing; they are comfortable and attractive
and durable.

Crepe is another matter. I've heard people explain that you can do crepe
weaves using medieval looms, but from what I have gathered from the
discussions on this list and elsewhere, that was not the same sort of
weave as is done in today's "crepe" fabrics. And there's some question as
to whether the weaves *would* have been done, regardless of whether they
*could* have been done -- and if so, for what uses. The word crepe goes
way back, and I believe appears in 16th c. documents, but I don't think it
has the same meaning in terms of fabric. I would be happy for some
definitive word on crepe, but till I hear anything more than speculation,
I'm avoiding it myself.

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: _All about silk_  (was mongolian dells)
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Ok, on the subject of crepe, i ordered a bunch of a gray wool crepe by 
mistake (it is a great fabric, and was on sale for like $5 a yard, but i 
thought it was lavender was it was going to go with several green pants 
i was making for my niece for xmas (along with six matching american 
girl outfits for each style-i kinda go overboard on my niece's presents).

Anyway, i am not sure how to use it, i have about 5 yards.  Any ideas? 
I am guessing from below (Robin) (and i kinda figured out) that neither 
of my current projects would accommodate it, and the gray would not go 
with anything for my niece so i am at a lost for how to use it.  and 
since i am probably going to be out of a job soon, ot at least making 10 
to 20 thousand less, i will need to be playing with the fabric i have, 
and not buying more.... sob --but hopefully i will stop coming home and 
crying.

the fabric buying possiblilityies of this job do not overweight the 
misery of it.



Robin Netherton wrote:
> Crepe is another matter. I've heard people explain that you can do crepe
> weaves using medieval looms, but from what I have gathered from the
> discussions on this list and elsewhere, that was not the same sort of
> weave as is done in today's "crepe" fabrics. And there's some question as
> to whether the weaves *would* have been done, regardless of whether they
> *could* have been done -- and if so, for what uses. The word crepe goes
> way back, and I believe appears in 16th c. documents, but I don't think it
> has the same meaning in terms of fabric. I would be happy for some
> definitive word on crepe, but till I hear anything more than speculation,
> I'm avoiding it myself.
> 
> --Robin
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 


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OT, but I thought some international folks might know the answer to this.

A couple of months ago I bought, for $6 American, a DVD of the movie
"Strictly Ballroom" (OCC: lots of over-the-top costumes) from a drugstore
chain I won't name (starts with "Wal"). Obviously I was dubious about the
quality, esp. since the cover art looked like something copied on a color
copier. The picture quality was fine, but it had no extras and was broken up
into only four scenes.

I thought it might just be a low-cost movie, but at the library last week I
came upon a DVD of the same movie, with director's audio commentary, a
little film on Australian ballroom dancing, etc. It was from Miramax and
mine, I now see, is from Lions Gate Home Entertainment in Canada, and has a
Canadian rating of 14A. I checked the Lions Gate web site, and it's a
legitimate company, but they have no listing for this film.

So my question is, what do I have? Is this a pirated film? Is it a
remaindered film from a batch of low-cost but legitimate pressings? Do
movies generally come out in more than one format -- one with extras and
cheaper ones without? Or do films have different distributors in different
countries, each of which can put out videos and DVDs?

And what is a 14A rating?

Not exactly costume content but: the commentary is very interesting,
especially the parts about how they made the movie with such a small budget.

Gail Finke

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A link on the site Helen posted was a Celtic dancing site that sold
something called "Soft Spikes," which claimed to make those tight ringlets
all the Irish dancers have to wear now.

I don't know if it would work or not, but I may order some! For Christmas I
put my 9-year-old daughter's hair up in soft curlers we bought at the $1
store. The back of her hair we did in curlers we bought a while ago, sort of
like rags with a wire in them. The front we did in new curlers which were
long rods, flexible wire covered in foam and fabric, about 5 and 7 inches
long and the diameter of a pencil. The directions said that the long ones
were for tubular curls and the short ones for more bouncy curls. You kept
the long ones on straight, bending just the ends to secure the hair, so it
looked like she had soda straws attached to her head. You bent the short
ones in half, into a U shape, and wound the hair from one side to the other,
then twisted the ends.

Anyway, her stick-straight hair looked gorgeous all day, even though she is
a tomboy and was crawling around the ground, running, changing clothes, etc.
We didn't use any gel or hairspray. I need to get back to the $1 store and
buy a couple more packages (it only came with 10). The hair that she had on
the straight, soda straw "curlers" hung in narrow sausage curls the whole
day.

We used to use just rags (after people discussed it on this list -- thanks!)
but the commercial curlers were easier for me to store because my daughter
kept using the rags for crafts. A little curl in rag curlers looks adorable,
thought -- I was always tempted to do her hair up in the rags for parties!
But she wanted the curls.

The Soft Spikes look interesting, and they are $8 for 30. They look easy to
use and easy to secure - the main problem we've had is things coming out at
night (she's active even when she sleeps!).

Gail Finke
(whose hair is only about 3 inches long)


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>even though every says you really don't need one.

For many ethnic garments you don't really need a pattern to make them fit 
like they originally do, just a set of measurements.  Ethnic garments don't 
fit like Western European ones do, such fit as they have being provided 
largely by things like belts and overlap.  Anymore I cut ethnic-shaped 
garments without patterns.  I can do this because I have been doing it for 
decades, so it's easy for me.  So go for that pattern if you can get 
it.  It will make things a lot easier for you.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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>Not exactly costume content but: the commentary is very interesting,
>especially the parts about how they made the movie with such a small budget.

The costumes in that film, while modern, are really fantastic, as in, 
fantasy-like.  I wish I had the body for some of them.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
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If I had to guess, 14A probably is like our PG 13. For Adults and children
over 14, maybe. Also, it looks like you got the movie released from the
distributor licensed for Canada rather than from the US one. It doesn't seem
like it is pirated, they probably just didn't get the rights to all of the
"goodies".
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gail & Scott Finke" <gailscott@eos.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2004 9:24 PM
Subject: [h-cost] OT: movies & canada


>
>
> OT, but I thought some international folks might know the answer to this.
>
> A couple of months ago I bought, for $6 American, a DVD of the movie
> "Strictly Ballroom" (OCC: lots of over-the-top costumes) from a drugstore
> chain I won't name (starts with "Wal"). Obviously I was dubious about the
> quality, esp. since the cover art looked like something copied on a color
> copier. The picture quality was fine, but it had no extras and was broken
up
> into only four scenes.
>
> I thought it might just be a low-cost movie, but at the library last week
I
> came upon a DVD of the same movie, with director's audio commentary, a
> little film on Australian ballroom dancing, etc. It was from Miramax and
> mine, I now see, is from Lions Gate Home Entertainment in Canada, and has
a
> Canadian rating of 14A. I checked the Lions Gate web site, and it's a
> legitimate company, but they have no listing for this film.
>
> So my question is, what do I have? Is this a pirated film? Is it a
> remaindered film from a batch of low-cost but legitimate pressings? Do
> movies generally come out in more than one format -- one with extras and
> cheaper ones without? Or do films have different distributors in different
> countries, each of which can put out videos and DVDs?
>
> And what is a 14A rating?
>
> Not exactly costume content but: the commentary is very interesting,
> especially the parts about how they made the movie with such a small
budget.
>
> Gail Finke
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
>

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Mongolia: Legacy of Genghis Khan exhibit
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Mongolia: The Legacy of Chinggis Khan, by Patricia Berger and Terese Tse
Bartholomew.  1995: Asian Art Museum of San Francisco.  This was a catalogue
for
the exhibit that also was mounted at the National Geographic Society in
Washington.  CSA members got to tour the exhibit with the ambassador from
Mongolia
and his family.  It was great!

Ann Wass

	- I too was on the National Geographic CSA tour - it was my first CSA
event!

	- Sorry for the one-liner, but it's a happy memory - the ambassador's wife
blew me away with her descriptions of WHY Mongolian clothing is made the way
it is.

	- Allison T.

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jan  4 02:34:36 2004
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: _All about silk_  (was mongolian dells)
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2004 02:34:20 -0500
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On Saturday 03 January 2004 08:29 pm, J.A.Urbik wrote:
[snip]
> Anyway, i am not sure how to use it, i have about 5 yards.  Any ideas?
> I am guessing from below (Robin) (and i kinda figured out) that neither
> of my current projects would accommodate it, and the gray would not go
> with anything for my niece so i am at a lost for how to use it.  and
> since i am probably going to be out of a job soon, ot at least making 10
> to 20 thousand less, i will need to be playing with the fabric i have,
> and not buying more.... sob --but hopefully i will stop coming home and
> crying.

If it's a light gray, how about dyeing it a more useful color?  I've been 
having great success using plain old Rit on wool flannel.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Anything's within walking distance if you have the time." -Steven Wright
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From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: _All about silk_  (was mongolian dells)
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At 08:29 PM 1/3/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Ok, on the subject of crepe, i ordered a bunch of a gray wool crepe by 
>mistake (it is a great fabric, and was on sale for like $5 a yard, but i 
>thought it was lavender was it was going to go with several green pants i 
>was making for my niece for xmas (along with six matching american girl 
>outfits for each style-i kinda go overboard on my niece's presents).
>
>Anyway, i am not sure how to use it, i have about 5 yards.  Any ideas? I 
>am guessing from below (Robin) (and i kinda figured out) that neither of 
>my current projects would accommodate it, and the gray would not go with 
>anything for my niece so i am at a lost for how to use it.  and since i am 
>probably going to be out of a job soon, ot at least making 10 to 20 
>thousand less, i will need to be playing with the fabric i have, and not 
>buying more.... sob --but hopefully i will stop coming home and crying.
>
>the fabric buying possiblilityies of this job do not overweight the misery 
>of it.


Ok, I thought grey was the best all purpose go with everything neutral 
color there was, next to black and white. If I had that much gray wool 
crepe, I might make a business suit, or pants or skirt and vest, or 
something basic. And if you don't like the idea of modern clothing, again 
make basic skirts and bodices with it or something. Or sell it to me if you 
want! I like grey wool crepe and would pay you what you paid for the 
material, or ebay the material and maybe get more for it.

And I am sorry about the job situation. I hope you can find something else 
in the same field real soon.

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

Costume Mistress for Isle of Mann Guild
Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
http://www.costumegallery.com 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Folkwear chinese jacket
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At 07:17 PM 1/3/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>For many ethnic garments you don't really need a pattern to make them fit 
>like they originally do, just a set of measurements.  Ethnic garments 
>don't fit like Western European ones do, such fit as they have being 
>provided largely by things like belts and overlap.  Anymore I cut 
>ethnic-shaped garments without patterns.  I can do this because I have 
>been doing it for decades, so it's easy for me.  So go for that pattern if 
>you can get it.  It will make things a lot easier for you.
>
>
>        CarolynKayta Barrows


I very much agree, after having had John Marshall's class on Japanese, 
Chinese, and African Ethnic clothing styles.

Let me see if I can explain the gist of John's doll forms. What he does is 
have you measure your basic body measurements, including height to 
shoulder, length of armspan from fingertip to fingertip (or wrist to 
wrist), bust, waist, and hips. Then on 12 sq. inch paper you mark out your 
measurements to have this funky paper doll, connecting the points to make a 
body shape, both front and back. You fold the paper in half at the shoulder 
height, so you have a front and a back.

Then you take scissors and cut out whatever shape you want, provided you 
don't cut into the doll body, unless you really want to chop it off at the 
knees for a shorter outfit, or midarm for short sleeves, or wherever. You 
can also add in pieces as well. You basically play with this until you have 
a shape you like, and there is your mini pattern. You take the mini pattern 
and transfer it to graphed pattern paper or interfacing, like the pellon 
Tru-grid. Then you have your real pattern, and can cut into fabric from there.

My fantasy Stormwatch duster is being based on this whole concept, which is 
at its heart really simple. And it will be made of just rectangles for the 
most part. I am sure if you could see the little paper doll I have it would 
make more sense. It really is rather freeing to be able to make such 
unfitted garments, considering all the fitted bodice and doublet work I 
have done over the years. Kinda like great kilts in such simplicity. 
{shrug} I have such a thing for kilts.

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

Costume Mistress for Isle of Mann Guild
Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
http://www.costumegallery.com 

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Those Soft Spikes are the ones made out of higher density foam, right?
One thing to remember when doing rag curls is that hair shrinks some as
it dries.  Don't put your hair on compressible rollers (rag, foam, spikes,
vinyl-covered wire rods) when it's *wet*.  You want your hair to just be a
little damp.  And don't roll tightly, or you'll get the same painful lesson
I got.  The hair shrinks and bites into the foam roller/rod, then you can't
get it off without yanking and pulling.  Ruins the curls and hurts like the
blazes.  I bought the more expensive cousin to Soft Spikes, which are 
essentially foam rods covered in lycra with a snap on the end.
http://www.seenontv.com/prod-pages/wrapsnapgo.html
Yeah, cheezy "As Seen On TV" product, but I picked them up at the drugstore.
The one nice thing is because of the snap, you can interlace the rods and
therefore get them to STAY ON for more than five minutes (a real problem
for me).  It meant I actually got rollers to stay in overnight without 
having to sleep in a turban (which usually also comes off while I'm sleeping).

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Folkwear chinese jacket
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>>Ethnic garments don't fit like Western European ones do, such fit as they 
>>have being provided largely by things like belts and overlap.

And are cut from rectangles and triangles only, for the most part, so they 
don't waste all that nice fabric they just got through weaving.

>I very much agree, after having had John Marshall's class on Japanese, 
>Chinese, and African Ethnic clothing styles.
>
>Let me see if I can explain the gist of John's doll forms. What he does is 
>have you measure your basic body measurements, including height to 
>shoulder, length of armspan from fingertip to fingertip (or wrist to 
>wrist), bust, waist, and hips. Then on 12 sq. inch paper you mark out your 
>measurements to have this funky paper doll, connecting the points to make 
>a body shape, both front and back. You fold the paper in half at the 
>shoulder height, so you have a front and a back.
>
>Then you take scissors and cut out whatever shape you want, provided you 
>don't cut into the doll body, unless you really want to chop it off at the 
>knees for a shorter outfit, or midarm for short sleeves, or wherever. You 
>can also add in pieces as well. You basically play with this until you 
>have a shape you like, and there is your mini pattern. You take the mini 
>pattern and transfer it to graphed pattern paper or interfacing, like the 
>pellon Tru-grid. Then you have your real pattern, and can cut into fabric 
>from there.
>
>My fantasy Stormwatch duster is being based on this whole concept, which 
>is at its heart really simple. And it will be made of just rectangles for 
>the most part. I am sure if you could see the little paper doll I have it 
>would make more sense. It really is rather freeing to be able to make such 
>unfitted garments, considering all the fitted bodice and doublet work I 
>have done over the years. Kinda like great kilts in such simplicity. 
>{shrug} I have such a thing for kilts.
>
>Kimiko
>
>
>Kimiko Small
>Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
>"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell
>
>Costume Mistress for Isle of Mann Guild
>Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
>http://www.costumegallery.com
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
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From: "J.A.Urbik" <jaurbik@optonline.net>
Subject: Re:Gray Crepe was [h-cost] Re: _All about silk_
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Kimiko, thye probablm with the job is the field.  After three years in 
teaching high school, i have decided enough is enough, and i hate the 
wohle field.  i just don't seem to be able to find any other jobs that i 
am quilified for, which is odd since my degree is in math.  but not much 
tech heiring is happening.  I will think about selling the crepe, i 
think the major probelm that i have with it is it can't be even hand 
washed without changing the texture --i think at least

jordana


Kimiko Small wrote:
  Or sell it to
> me if you want! I like grey wool crepe and would pay you what you paid 
> for the material, or ebay the material and maybe get more for it.
> 
> And I am sorry about the job situation. I hope you can find something 
> else in the same field real soon.
> 
> Kimiko
> 
> 
> Kimiko Small
> Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
> "When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell
> 
> Costume Mistress for Isle of Mann Guild
> Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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I'm having a sale. Anyone on the list can get $2 shipping on any ebay
purchases they buy from me.

http://snipurl.com/3csb



Now announcing the new
Rolled Florentine Cap
Kristalori History
www.swapking.com/hats
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I have listed a lot of neat items mostly books and a good sized stack of
quilt fabric. Four sets of Folkwear patterns (there are 3 in each set) are
also up there. I have a couple of Antonia Fraser books and a copy of And All
Was revealed by Doreen Caldwell. I'm listing more every friday as well but I
have some that are ending soon. Shipping for books and patterns is $2 off
for list members.
http://snipurl.com/3csb


Bice
Now announcing the new
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Kristalori History
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> Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 15:09:38 -0500
> From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Christmas and circuit breakers
> 
> My husband is a programmer so we've had surge protectors for a long
> time.  
> It's especially important around here, because power usage gets so
> high in 
> the summer (and thunderstorms so common) that surges and
> fluctuations in 
> power are routine.
> 
> -- 
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
> 

Delurking for a moment...

I found out (the hard way) that surge protectors only last for a
couple years.  We had our computer plugged into one, but when we
experienced a blackout a couple years ago, it blew our hard drive. 
One of the pc tech people at my job explained to me that the
constants spikes & surges of power "wear out" the surge protector
after time.  

When you have PCs, sewing machines, TVs, etc that are $1000+, it's
definitely worth it to invest in a $20 surge protector every few
years!

Back to lurking,
Mary

=====
"Right now I'm having amnesia and deja vu at the same time.  I think I've forgotten this before."     ~ Steven Wright
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jan  4 18:26:23 2004
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Subject: [h-cost] New York Fabric Stores
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Sorry for the cross-post, but I figured that anyone in the New York area 
(near NYC) and anyone planning on visiting might like this. I needed lining 
fabric, and cotton velvet.  I wanted linen for lining, but was going to settle for 
cotton broadcloth simply for my wallet's sake (college student, Elizabethans 
are expensive and everything else in the costume was linen or silk).  However, I 
went into New York this afternoon, and got what my heart wanted- linen, good 
quality.  For $3 per yard (plus tax), which is the retail, non-negotiated 
price.  And, I talked a guy down to $8 a yard for the velvet.  Anyhow.  The first 
place had yards and yards of linen.  I'm talking a historical costumer's 
*dream*.   And, for those of you who like sheer embroideries, it's knee-buckling.  
And certainly eye-opening.  There are two fabric stores right next to each 
other who both carry tons of embroideries, one of which had to have catered to 
the beauty pagent industry- Opulent.  So, without further ado, the two stores I 
shopped at:

Ebad Fabrics (the guys with $3/yard linen)
550 8th Ave (it's between 37th and 38th)
Ny, NY 10018
Tel: 212-869-7826
(Wholesale and retail, they'll ship UPS, open 7 days a week)

New York Fabrics
608 8th ave (between 39th and 40th)
NY, NY 10018
Tel: 212-768-8737
(Wholesale and retail, "Mail and special orders welcome")

Christine
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I know this list includes some well-traveled folks from Europe.  I'll be in 
Madrid in early March.  Any suggestions for fabric shopping?
Ann Wass
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jan  4 20:36:58 2004
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No, but if you can find the Artemisa (or was it Artemisia?) restaurant, it's
really worth going to. It's close to la Puerta del Sol. It's vegetarian, but
it's nothing like that grain-and-nut vegetarian stuff. You won't even
realize you're eating vegetarian, and the food is incredibly wonderful.

Sorry it's off topic, I just couldn't resist!

Here's the address (actually, addresses, there's another one now)

Artemisia II
Calle Tres Cruces, 4
2 blocks north of Puerto del Sol

Artemisa I
4 blocks east of Puerto del Sol
Ventura del la Vega (off San Jeronimo)


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AnnBWass@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2004 7:05 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Shopping in Madrid


> I know this list includes some well-traveled folks from Europe.  I'll be
in
> Madrid in early March.  Any suggestions for fabric shopping?
> Ann Wass
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mongolian Dells
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2004 22:46:19 -0500
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Another book for Mongolian reference is "Mongol Costumes" by Henry Hanson.
It was published by Rhodes International Science and Art Publication.
Unfortunately it is presently out of print.
I have been using a copy belonging to a friend for some time. Among the
museum pieces shown, described, and discussed, fabrics even in early times
were inclusive of wool, cotton, silk and skins.  Because of the climate,
quilted forms were much in use at all levels. Brocades and other forms of
silk as we think of them today when the costume is 'Chinese" are a rather
recent development.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AnnBWass@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2004 3:02 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mongolian Dells


> In a message dated 1/3/2004 12:29:20 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> jaurbik@optonline.net writes:
> What would be some good web pages
> or books to interlibrary loan?
> Try:
> Mongolia: The Legacy of Chinggis Khan, by Patricia Berger and Terese Tse
> Bartholomew.  1995: Asian Art Museum of San Francisco.  This was a
catalogue for
> the exhibit that also was mounted at the National Geographic Society in
> Washington.  CSA members got to tour the exhibit with the ambassador from
Mongolia
> and his family.  It was great!
>
> Ann Wass
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>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Folkwear chinese jacket
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If you have seen the Afghan coat pattern (Folkwear), you will be closer to
the shape in use in the earlier times.  Hansen has a lot of diagrams of the
ethnic shapes generally in use.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "J.A.Urbik" <jaurbik@optonline.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2004 7:52 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Folkwear chinese jacket


> Thanks for the encouragement.  I was sure that it would come out better
> if i used a pattern, even though every says you really don't need one.
> But i really like patters!  it seems that everything i try to do without
> a least a basic pattern to start on does not come out right.  i think it
> has to do with trying to fit on oneself.
>
> As soon as i find it, i will be overjoyed to prove you right :)  At the
> moment, i think it is in the same place as socks go in the dryer.  i
> cleaned house for *8* hours yesterday, with no good effect (well, except
> that my house is clean....) trying to find the darn thing.  ok, a good 4
> hours of was spent striating my sewing area...
>
> Jordana
>
>
> Gail & Scott Finke wrote:
>
> > I made that jacket when I was in high school, asymmetrical opening and
all
> ...
>
>   That's why I still have it, though I never
> > wore it anywhere -- it's too pretty to give away. I was not a great
sewer by
> > any means.  I just thought that might encourage you!
> >
> > Gail Finke
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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>

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Nothing directly costume-related, but I did spend some Christmas money
on the book of the film "Master and Commander", which includes
fascinating detail about the costumes, such as the trouble they took to
find the right fabrics (from all over the world), and how they made them
look well-used.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th century poodle hair
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Use a heavier fabric? Your photos look great, but the cap appears to be
made of a lighter-weight fabric than my coifs are. (Mind you, I don't
have curly hair to hold them out!)

>>> skud@infotrope.net 12/31/03 12:52:16 AM >>>
And just to reply to myself...

I took photos during my experiments this afternoon, which I have put
here: http://elizabethangeek.com/katrowberd/oop/1638/poodle/ 

The cap I'm wearing is a "hollar" cap based on the pattern in Kass's
"Reconstructing History" set of patterns for 17th century caps.  I
need
to figure out how to stop it sticking out sideways so much.  Here's
what
it's meant to look like:

http://www.costumes.org/history/17thcent/womensfashplates/hollarprints/hollar25w.jpg

http://www.costumes.org/history/17thcent/womensfashplates/hollarprints/hollar26w.jpg

http://www.costumes.org/history/17thcent/womensfashplates/hollarprints/hollar28w.jpg


I think perhaps the lace would help weigh the edges down but I don't
have any lace I like for the purpose.

K.
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In a message dated 1/5/2004 5:24:37 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk writes:
book of the film "Master and Commander", which includes
fascinating detail about the costumes, such as the trouble they took to
find the right fabrics (from all over the world), and how they made them
look well-used.
Can you give the reference?  I was particularly intrigued by the doctor's 
coat, which looks like a banyan but is short--it's what he wears to scramble 
around the islands.  Banyans, of course, are associated with "learned men."  I've 
only seen one pictoral reference to a shortened version of one, and I would 
love to know where the costume designer got the idea--an extant garment, a 
drawing or other pictoral reference, or did she make it up?

Ann Wass
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"The making of "Master and Commander: The Far Side of the World"" by Tom
McGregor.
Stephen's banyan is certainly mentioned; I'll check what it says this
evening.

>>> AnnBWass@aol.com 1/5/04 10:32:01 AM >>>
In a message dated 1/5/2004 5:24:37 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk writes:
book of the film "Master and Commander", which includes
fascinating detail about the costumes, such as the trouble they took
to
find the right fabrics (from all over the world), and how they made
them
look well-used.
Can you give the reference?  I was particularly intrigued by the
doctor's 
coat, which looks like a banyan but is short--it's what he wears to
scramble 
around the islands.  Banyans, of course, are associated with "learned
men."  I've 
only seen one pictoral reference to a shortened version of one, and I
would 
love to know where the costume designer got the idea--an extant
garment, a 
drawing or other pictoral reference, or did she make it up?

Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1290 patterns
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the 75 years yahoo groups have folks from groups covering that period,
several are in England

I import for Alter years genberally, although I've never bought a medieval
pattern

Mel

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From: "Teena Paradise" <bkessinger@ureach.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1290 patterns
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I have all of these patterns except the tabards and capes and several others
you haven't listed. They aren't for the novice sewer. Although I was a
basically novice when I did my first one. I made a few mistakes, but learned
as I did so. The thing about these patterns is that they put several pattern
options on top of one another. It's not a good idea to cut these patterns
out. Well, you could, but life would be more difficult. I trace the pattern
I want onto something else, (usually interfacing) and use that to work with.
The instructions are a little iffy sometimes, depending on the pattern, but
I have always been able to figure them out. Muslins are a requirement with
these patterns in my opinion, both for fitting and for getting a dry run
with the instructions. I know a lot of people don't like these patterns, but
I like them. I feel for many time periods, they are the most accurate ones
available. They also come with documentation, which I like.

As far as a supplier in the UK... not sure. However, they are available from
several online sources. My favorite is www.pillagedvillage.com as they have
the cheapest prices that I have seen and have been good folks (Note: I have
no relationship to them other than as a satisfied customer).

The SCA (Society for Creative Anachronism) has some very active groups in
the UK so they might want to explore that. I don't know what area they are
going to, but some members of our local group were transferred over there
for work. They send pictures of events with their new group and I am so
jealous! They get to have events at real castles!

I hope this helps!

Teena
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Carol Kocian" <aquazoo@patriot.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 9:28 AM
Subject: [h-cost] 1290 patterns


> Hello,
>
>       I haven't been involved with medieval reenactment for a while,
> and I had a question from a friend.  Her family is interested in
> years around 1290.  She is in England and asked for us to track down
> & send her these patterns:
>
> Period Pattern #  16 - Universal Tunics, c. 650-1310
> Period Pattern #  21 - Women's Cotehardies
> Period Pattern #  23 - Men's Cotehardies
> Period Pattern #  92 - Capes and Tabbards, c. 650-1650
> Period Pattern # 101 - Medieval Military Garments
>
>       Are they available through AlterYears?  Is there a source in
> England for them, or any patterns available there for that era?  Any
> groups doing that era in England?  They may eventually like to
> participate in a group there, and if so it would be helpful to have
> acceptable garb to begin with.
>
>       Also, can anyone comment on the Period Patterns - are they done
> well, instructions clear, yadda yadda?
>
>       Thanks!
>       -Carol
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1290 patterns
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On Mon, 5 Jan 2004, Melanie Wilson wrote:

> the 75 years yahoo groups have folks from groups covering that period,
> several are in England

I was just about to recommend this myself. Carol, the group is
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/75years/ and covers 1250-1325 Europe. Your
friends can get good connections both via the email list and through the
related websites. The archives will also be valuable to them. If they're
not online, you might want to join the group yourself and ask your
questions there.

--Robin

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Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 09:28:17 -0500
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From: Carol Kocian <aquazoo@patriot.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] 1290 patterns
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Hello,

      I haven't been involved with medieval reenactment for a while, 
and I had a question from a friend.  Her family is interested in 
years around 1290.  She is in England and asked for us to track down 
& send her these patterns:

Period Pattern #  16 - Universal Tunics, c. 650-1310
Period Pattern #  21 - Women's Cotehardies
Period Pattern #  23 - Men's Cotehardies
Period Pattern #  92 - Capes and Tabbards, c. 650-1650
Period Pattern # 101 - Medieval Military Garments

      Are they available through AlterYears?  Is there a source in 
England for them, or any patterns available there for that era?  Any 
groups doing that era in England?  They may eventually like to 
participate in a group there, and if so it would be helpful to have 
acceptable garb to begin with.

      Also, can anyone comment on the Period Patterns - are they done 
well, instructions clear, yadda yadda?

      Thanks!
      -Carol
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] So, What'd ya get?
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 10:18:02 -0500
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Yes, I want to make that coat/banyan!  
-Megan

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Kate M Bunting
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 6:24 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] So, What'd ya get?


"The making of "Master and Commander: The Far Side of the World"" by Tom
McGregor.
Stephen's banyan is certainly mentioned; I'll check what it says this
evening.

>>> AnnBWass@aol.com 1/5/04 10:32:01 AM >>>
In a message dated 1/5/2004 5:24:37 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk writes:
book of the film "Master and Commander", which includes
fascinating detail about the costumes, such as the trouble they took
to
find the right fabrics (from all over the world), and how they made
them
look well-used.
Can you give the reference?  I was particularly intrigued by the
doctor's 
coat, which looks like a banyan but is short--it's what he wears to
scramble 
around the islands.  Banyans, of course, are associated with "learned
men."  I've 
only seen one pictoral reference to a shortened version of one, and I
would 
love to know where the costume designer got the idea--an extant
garment, a 
drawing or other pictoral reference, or did she make it up?

Ann Wass
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________________________________________________________________________

Kate Bunting
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question on fur usage (12-14th cen, Tudor,
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At 8:09 PM -0500 1/2/04, Kathy Page wrote:
>Heather wrote:
>
>>The skin breeches I see on that page are the polar-bear skin ones
>>given in Hald -- am I missing another mention somewhere? 
>
>As far as I know. You know more about them than I do. In fact, they 
>don't, in my recollection, mention anywhere the original material 
>they were made from. Someone had told me that they weren't textile.
>


Ok, I though I was missing something on the web page, and I'm always 
on the lookout for new items to add to the database.


>  >I'm a bit surprised to see the polar bear skin ones suggested as 
>a >model for Viking clothing.
>
>They include a myriad of undergarments from various periods, that is 
>how I came across them. I am also working on the Bocksten Bog Man 
>right now, and am counfounded on undergarment issues. I was planning 
>on using whatever came close and was easily constructed for a 
>variety of reasons, but the bug was put in my ear to do a 
>conjectural set of underwear for the suit, and the more I think 
>about it, the more I am liking the idea. I have the time right now 
>to research and develop the pattern, so why not? Since this waaayy 
>out of my period, and I am not really knowledgeable on menswear 
>overall, any points in the right direction are well appreciated from 
>anyone.
>


The preservation conditions for the Bocksten find are the sort where 
you won't expect linen to survive, and linen is what we'd expect for 
underwear in this general time and place.  Pictorial evidence 
suggests that the style of separate-leg hose found in this outfit are 
normally worn with linen braies underneath that are long enough to 
overlap with the hose (so probably past the knee, rather than 
something shorter).  Similarly, pictorial evidence suggests an 
undertunic of a roughly similar cut to the woolen one.

This is the route I'd tend to take.  A relatively lightweight linen 
tunic, either the same cut or one that's slightly simpler and perhaps 
slightly shorter.  There are a lot of different approaches to the cut 
of braies for this era, and very little solid evidence to support one 
over another.  My personal choice has been to go with a cut similar 
to that seen in the surviving garments of the 14th c. Nubian bishop 
Timotheos -- not because I think there's any close connection between 
styles in Nubia and those in northern Europe, but simply because it's 
one of the plausible designs (on an engineering basis) and the Nubian 
example at least shows that somebody was using it in a roughly 
appropriate time.  The cut involves two rectangular panels (one for 
each leg) and a square gusset in the crotch.  The waist is sewn into 
a casing for a drawstring.  Pictorial evidence suggests that the 
northern European garment would have been generous in cut and of 
relatively lightweight fabric.


>  >If you follow Hald's reasoning, she's suggesting that a handful of
>>garments from the first couple of centuries of the common era may
>>have inherited their particular cut from even earlier styles made
>>from skins, where the cut was retained when the reason for it had
>>been lost.
>
>If I am to understand your meaning, that the cut of trousers evolved 
>slower than most based on the use of this type of material, until it 
>was replaced with textile?
>


It's more that she's arguing that this particular cut (or rather, 
general group of cuts) would be extremely odd if it had been 
developed for woven cloth, but is more natural if it had been 
designed for skins.  (She makes a similar argument for the rather 
oddly designed woman's "blouse" found in Bronze Age graves.)  And 
therefore that the cloth examples may reflect a tailoring tradition 
that had been  inherited from an earlier era when skins were the 
default material.  I don't know that it needs to say anything about 
how slowly or quickly trouser styles evolve, since leather clothing 
shows up at many different times, and a cut designed for leather or 
skin could have been developed at several different times.

I reserve judgement on Hald's theory on this point.  I agree that 
there are some fabric garments whose cut seems rather roundabout and 
counter-intuitive for fabric.  But every once in a while, I get the 
sense that Hald has fastened onto an IDEA and become overly attached 
to it, presents it with more certainty than may be warranted.


Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose (you may now call me Doctor) Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****

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At 8:09 PM -0500 1/2/04, Kathy Page wrote:
>Heather wrote:
>
>>The skin breeches I see on that page are the polar-bear skin ones
>>given in Hald -- am I missing another mention somewhere? 
>
>As far as I know. You know more about them than I do. In fact, they 
>don't, in my recollection, mention anywhere the original material 
>they were made from. Someone had told me that they weren't textile.
>


Ok, I though I was missing something on the web page, and I'm always 
on the lookout for new items to add to the database.


>  >I'm a bit surprised to see the polar bear skin ones suggested as 
>a >model for Viking clothing.
>
>They include a myriad of undergarments from various periods, that is 
>how I came across them. I am also working on the Bocksten Bog Man 
>right now, and am counfounded on undergarment issues. I was planning 
>on using whatever came close and was easily constructed for a 
>variety of reasons, but the bug was put in my ear to do a 
>conjectural set of underwear for the suit, and the more I think 
>about it, the more I am liking the idea. I have the time right now 
>to research and develop the pattern, so why not? Since this waaayy 
>out of my period, and I am not really knowledgeable on menswear 
>overall, any points in the right direction are well appreciated from 
>anyone.
>


The preservation conditions for the Bocksten find are the sort where 
you won't expect linen to survive, and linen is what we'd expect for 
underwear in this general time and place.  Pictorial evidence 
suggests that the style of separate-leg hose found in this outfit are 
normally worn with linen braies underneath that are long enough to 
overlap with the hose (so probably past the knee, rather than 
something shorter).  Similarly, pictorial evidence suggests an 
undertunic of a roughly similar cut to the woolen one.

This is the route I'd tend to take.  A relatively lightweight linen 
tunic, either the same cut or one that's slightly simpler and perhaps 
slightly shorter.  There are a lot of different approaches to the cut 
of braies for this era, and very little solid evidence to support one 
over another.  My personal choice has been to go with a cut similar 
to that seen in the surviving garments of the 14th c. Nubian bishop 
Timotheos -- not because I think there's any close connection between 
styles in Nubia and those in northern Europe, but simply because it's 
one of the plausible designs (on an engineering basis) and the Nubian 
example at least shows that somebody was using it in a roughly 
appropriate time.  The cut involves two rectangular panels (one for 
each leg) and a square gusset in the crotch.  The waist is sewn into 
a casing for a drawstring.  Pictorial evidence suggests that the 
northern European garment would have been generous in cut and of 
relatively lightweight fabric.


>  >If you follow Hald's reasoning, she's suggesting that a handful of
>>garments from the first couple of centuries of the common era may
>>have inherited their particular cut from even earlier styles made
>>from skins, where the cut was retained when the reason for it had
>>been lost.
>
>If I am to understand your meaning, that the cut of trousers evolved 
>slower than most based on the use of this type of material, until it 
>was replaced with textile?
>


It's more that she's arguing that this particular cut (or rather, 
general group of cuts) would be extremely odd if it had been 
developed for woven cloth, but is more natural if it had been 
designed for skins.  (She makes a similar argument for the rather 
oddly designed woman's "blouse" found in Bronze Age graves.)  And 
therefore that the cloth examples may reflect a tailoring tradition 
that had been  inherited from an earlier era when skins were the 
default material.  I don't know that it needs to say anything about 
how slowly or quickly trouser styles evolve, since leather clothing 
shows up at many different times, and a cut designed for leather or 
skin could have been developed at several different times.

I reserve judgement on Hald's theory on this point.  I agree that 
there are some fabric garments whose cut seems rather roundabout and 
counter-intuitive for fabric.  But every once in a while, I get the 
sense that Hald has fastened onto an IDEA and become overly attached 
to it, presents it with more certainty than may be warranted.


Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose (you may now call me Doctor) Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] So, What'd ya get?
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In a message dated 1/5/2004 2:27:39 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk writes:
such as the trouble they took to
find the right fabrics (from all over the world), and how they made them
look well-used.

I was lucky enough to meet one of the costume designers on that movie.  She 
was the stepmom of one of the lawyers I work with, and one sharp designer!

Laura
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bob Trunk and Green Duck Designs... was Cussin'
	Janet Arnold again...
From: Lynn Downward <LDownward@chori.org>
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This may be old news, but I saw Green Duck at a very small Renaissance faire
near Sacramento, Calif. a couple of years ago and they said that they were
going to get out of the business within the year. This is such old news I
hesitated to mention it, but unless there's an update... I got this directly
from the husband. He said they planned to retire from book selling because
it just wasn't as successful as it had been for them and they were getting
old enough and tired enough of the fair process that it wasn't much fun
anymore.  I don't know them well at all, but I talk to the vendors at fairs,
and he seemed to be having a bad day and was pretty grumpy. Maybe what he
said was just because of that day, but it seemed (just a feeling) that this
was a definite plan, not a wish. And I remember being surprised because
their booth was full of people - and they were buying books, not just
looking at them. I had several myself and talked to him while he wrote up my
sale.

LynnD

On 1/2/04 2:10 AM, "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com> wrote:

> 
>> I thought Green Duck had an online store, but I don't see that anymore.
>> Anyone know what happened to them,
> 
> I saw them, as visitors, at Dickens' Fair this year, but didn't ask about
> Green Duck.
> 
> 
>       CarolynKayta Barrows
> dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
>         www.FunStuft.com
> 
>             //// \\\
>            ////-@@\\\
>           ((((   7 )))
>            (((  <> ))))
>               )   ((((((
>          /----\   /---\))
> 
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Lynn Downward wrote:
> He said they planned to retire from book selling because
> it just wasn't as successful as it had been for them and they were getting
> old enough and tired enough of the fair process that it wasn't much fun
> anymore.

They were moderately active in my SCA shire in CA, and this is what he 
told me.  I think I saw Jania selling at an event in October, but it 
wasn't a large booth, not like before.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] bobbin lace
From: Lynn Downward <LDownward@chori.org>
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Wendy, I don't know where you are, but Lacis in Berkeley, CA, has pieces of
bobbin lace for sale.

Lynn

On 1/1/04 9:44 PM, "Wendy" <emmajean@myway.com> wrote:

> Greetings, Anyone have a source for bobbin lace? The lace trim that I could
> use for edging. I've been searching around and can only find completed pieces
> like tablecloths or ornaments. I would love one day to start making bobbin
> lace myself but life interferes with my hobbies too much as it is, now.
> Thanks,Wendy
> 
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Subject: [h-cost] Good 1830s bonnet pattern?
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Hi All,

Since I had so much fun at the Rochester Dickens festival before Christmas, I
am bound to make an 1830s costumes. Does anyone know of a good (!) 1830s bonnet
pattern? I want to look as utterly tasteless and 'ugly' as possible. *chuckle*

Something along the lines of this one, which I had borrowed (which is straw,
however, and I am looking for one which can be made with fabric):

http://www.livejournal.com/users/marquesate/23205.html

Cheers

Nicole

=====
Email: nicole@kipar.org
Website: http://www.kipar.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Good 1830s bonnet pattern?
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Scary Nicole :)

Bit late for me but I'll look at some of the Hat books I have

Mel

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Good 1830s bonnet pattern?
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 --- Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk> wrote: > 

Scary Nicole :)
> 
> Bit late for me but I'll look at some of the Hat books I have
> 
> Mel

Cheers Mel!

Ahhhh I like to be scary. *winks*

I also still want an 1860s (old fashioned for the 1870s) black eccentric
mad-spinster Fraeulein Adelheid outfit for the Victorian RP!

I figure the 1830s version is her mother. ;-)

Nicole

=====
Email: nicole@kipar.org
Website: http://www.kipar.org

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From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Good 1830s bonnet pattern?
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I understand the hat lust trust me. I saw this book some time back on ebay
and the woman has a website. The book looks excellent and it can be found
here:  http://snipurl.com/3noe
Now I've never bought it so I'm not sure how good it is but it might be one
option.
NAW

Bice

=============================
On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
For the month of January
list people get $2 off shipping Check
out the three auctions with weaving books

Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
www.swapking.com/hats
=============================
> I also still want an 1860s (old fashioned for the 1870s) black eccentric
> mad-spinster Fraeulein Adelheid outfit for the Victorian RP!
>
> I figure the 1830s version is her mother. ;-)
>
> Nicole
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Hurrah, Nicole, you are back again. 
Very nice.
You look hillarious, laughs out loud!!!

Nice to have you back on the list.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Green Duck Designs... 
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LynnD wrote:
> This may be old news, but I saw Green Duck at a very small Renaissance
> faire near Sacramento, Calif. a couple of years ago and they said that
> they were going to get out of the business within the year. This is
> such old news I hesitated to mention it, but unless there's an
> update... I got this directly from the husband. He said they planned
> to retire from book selling because it just wasn't as successful as it
> had been for them and they were getting old enough and tired enough of
> the fair process that it wasn't much fun anymore.  I don't know them
> well at all, but I talk to the vendors at fairs, and he seemed to be
> having a bad day and was pretty grumpy. Maybe what he said was just
> because of that day, but it seemed (just a feeling) that this was a
> definite plan, not a wish. And I remember being surprised because
> their booth was full of people - and they were buying books, not just
> looking at them. I had several myself and talked to him while he wrote
> up my sale.

He had more than just a bad day. He had a lot of bad days. I thought 
when he first told me that he was quitting that it was just a 
temporary thing. However, it persisted. I talked with his wife in 
October where she was merchanting. He's just not interested in it 
anymore (and hasn't been since that set of "bad days.")

Jane says that it's also getting very difficult even with her current 
limited stock. She's having more and more problems taking all the 
stuff to the various events. It's part of the greying of America 
thing, that many of our successful people just can't keep doing what 
we've expected of them for years.

Also, one of the things he pointed out was that the on-line 
bookstores were able to get better prices than the "mom and pop" 
sized ones. That means that it becomes less cost effective for them 
to go to events (even if the booth seems crowded every time you go 
by.)

I really miss stores like theirs at events. I always looked forward 
to seeing what new costume/history sources they had been able to 
ferret out for us to expand our libraries and our knowledge base. 
There are still some out there, but they don't have the same name 
value. At least we still have Pastiche!

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2004 12:01:46 -0800
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Green Duck Designs... 
From: Lynn Downward <LDownward@chori.org>
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On 1/5/04 11:30 AM, "kat@grendal.rain.com" <kat@grendal.rain.com> wrote:

> LynnD wrote:
>> This may be old news, but I saw Green Duck at a very small Renaissance
>> faire near Sacramento, Calif. a couple of years ago and they said that
>> they were going to get out of the business within the year. This is
>> such old news I hesitated to mention it, but unless there's an
>> update... I got this directly from the husband. He said they planned
>> to retire from book selling because it just wasn't as successful as it
>> had been for them and they were getting old enough and tired enough of
>> the fair process that it wasn't much fun anymore.  I don't know them
>> well at all, but I talk to the vendors at fairs, and he seemed to be
>> having a bad day and was pretty grumpy. Maybe what he said was just
>> because of that day, but it seemed (just a feeling) that this was a
>> definite plan, not a wish. And I remember being surprised because
>> their booth was full of people - and they were buying books, not just
>> looking at them. I had several myself and talked to him while he wrote
>> up my sale.
> 
> He had more than just a bad day. He had a lot of bad days. I thought
> when he first told me that he was quitting that it was just a
> temporary thing. However, it persisted. I talked with his wife in
> October where she was merchanting. He's just not interested in it
> anymore (and hasn't been since that set of "bad days.")

Having visited and worked at the Northern California Renaissance and Dickens
fairs since 1968, I understand completely. I know lots and lots of the
craftsmen who have worked at these faires over the years, and many of them
have left the life. One gets tired of the life of coming home only to pay
bills and make more 'product', pack it up and get to the next venue. (I come
from a time at fairs when, if you didn't make it or grow it, you couldn't
sell it, so I think of craftspeople first and vendors second.)
 
> Jane says that it's also getting very difficult even with her current
> limited stock. She's having more and more problems taking all the
> stuff to the various events. It's part of the greying of America
> thing, that many of our successful people just can't keep doing what
> we've expected of them for years.

Yes, and we just don't appreciate those craftsmen or vendors that we've seen
for years and years until we look up and realize that they're grey! And they
are moving slowly. And they've lost interest in this hard life. I worked
this Dickens faire for a wife/husband team who have sold porcelain goods and
beads at fairs across the country for most of their adult lives - since the
time when you found a spot at the fair, put your blanket down and sold from
it. It's hard for them at 55 or so to do the same stuff they've done since
their mid-20's simply because they're older and stiffer. Of course, they can
put up a booth in their sleep because they've done it for so long, but it's
physically harder on them.

> Also, one of the things he pointed out was that the on-line
> bookstores were able to get better prices than the "mom and pop"
> sized ones. That means that it becomes less cost effective for them
> to go to events (even if the booth seems crowded every time you go
> by.)

That's exactly what he said; I simply forgot that part of his disenchantment
with the whole fair process.

> I really miss stores like theirs at events. I always looked forward
> to seeing what new costume/history sources they had been able to
> ferret out for us to expand our libraries and our knowledge base.
> There are still some out there, but they don't have the same name
> value. At least we still have Pastiche!

Kat I agree with you completely!
 
> Kat
> <kat@redtrollforge.com>
> 
LynnD

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question on fur usage (12-14th cen, Tudor,
Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2004 14:32:04 -0600
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>From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.Berkeley.EDU>
> >  >I'm a bit surprised to see the polar bear skin ones suggested as
> >a >model for Viking clothing.
> >They include a myriad of undergarments from various periods, that is
> >how I came across them. I am also working on the Bocksten Bog Man
> >right now, and am counfounded on undergarment issues. I was planning
> >on using whatever came close and was easily constructed for a
> >variety of reasons, but the bug was put in my ear to do a
> >conjectural set of underwear for the suit, and the more I think
> >about it, the more I am liking the idea. I have the time right now
> >to research and develop the pattern, so why not? Since this waaayy
> >out of my period, and I am not really knowledgeable on menswear
> >overall, any points in the right direction are well appreciated from
> >anyone.
>The preservation conditions for the Bocksten find are the sort where
>you won't expect linen to survive, and linen is what we'd expect for
>underwear in this general time and place.  Pictorial evidence
>suggests that the style of separate-leg hose found in this outfit are
>normally worn with linen braies underneath that are long enough to
>overlap with the hose (so probably past the knee, rather than
>something shorter).  Similarly, pictorial evidence suggests an
>undertunic of a roughly similar cut to the woolen one.

There are several conjectual patterns for breches (or braies if you must  :) 
  ) on line.  I'll eventually have mine up there when I get finished with 
the page.

http://www.bumply.com/Medieval/braies.htm
http://www.randyasplund.com/browse/medieval/chausse1.html

being the most common.

>This is the route I'd tend to take.  A relatively lightweight linen
>tunic, either the same cut or one that's slightly simpler and perhaps
>slightly shorter.  There are a lot of different approaches to the cut
>of braies for this era, and very little solid evidence to support one
>over another.  My personal choice has been to go with a cut similar
>to that seen in the surviving garments of the 14th c. Nubian bishop
>Timotheos -- not because I think there's any close connection between
>styles in Nubia and those in northern Europe, but simply because it's
>one of the plausible designs (on an engineering basis) and the Nubian
>example at least shows that somebody was using it in a roughly
>appropriate time.  The cut involves two rectangular panels (one for
>each leg) and a square gusset in the crotch.  The waist is sewn into
>a casing for a drawstring.  Pictorial evidence suggests that the
>northern European garment would have been generous in cut and of
>relatively lightweight fabric.

I'm unfamiliar with this one.  Do you have a source available? (Must learn 
more...)

The design I use is actually loosely based on one from the Caucasus from 
this period which iwas made from three large  equal sized squares of linen 
(2 legs and a gusset).  I've modified this so that the gusset is about half 
the square area of the leg pieces and .  It works, but it's still badly 
flawed somewhere.

>I reserve judgement on Hald's theory on this point.  I agree that
>there are some fabric garments whose cut seems rather roundabout and
>counter-intuitive for fabric.  But every once in a while, I get the
>sense that Hald has fastened onto an IDEA and become overly attached
>to it, presents it with more certainty than may be warranted.

I do think it's a bit of a stretch, and really what I got from what she 
wrote had more to do with the whole gusset thing as being crucial.

Curiously, in one of the sagas (don't ask me right now which one since I 
couldn't tell you if you made me - it's at home), a woman is being accused 
of wearing men's garments since she was wearing gusseted trousers, which 
sort of implies that women might wear ungusseted trousers, if they wore them 
at all.  Of course, the Skjoldehamn trousers from northern Norway and might 
not be Norwegian have no gusset.

Personally I really want to see the woollen "underwear" from Hull.

Marc

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From: "J.A.Urbik" <jaurbik@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Folkwear chinese jacket
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Lloyd Mitchell wrote:
> If you have seen the Afghan coat pattern (Folkwear), you will be closer to
> the shape in use in the earlier times.  Hansen has a lot of diagrams of the
> ethnic shapes generally in use.
> Kathleen

Kathleen, the only afgan thing that they currently carry is Afghani 
Nomad Dress, 107  (http://www.folkwear.com/107.html)  which i don't 
think is what you are referring to.  Is the pattern you mention an old one?

Jordana



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Heather wrote:
 
>Pictorial evidence suggests that the style of separate-leg hose found in >this outfit are normally worn with linen braies underneath that are long >enough to overlap with the hose <snip>  Similarly, pictorial evidence >suggests an undertunic of a roughly similar cut to the woolen one.
 
I'm slowly working my way through Nockert's book on the topic with the help of a Swedish friend, I had pretty much assumed even before this that linens would not have survived. The undertunic design I had planned on was very very simple, using the _don't cut it if it's not necessary_ philosophy.  I had started basing it on the Viborg shirt, but I am waiting to slowly wade my way through the rest of what the book has to say before I dig much deeper. (Mostly it's plain ol curiosity, I have my doubts that there is much more than what has already been translated available in there.) The Skjoldehamn under tunic is a thought as well, although the collar seems incongruent to use under the Bocksten kjortel. Is there pictorial evidence either way suggesting this cominbation was used at all? Do you know of where I can find artwork that is relevant to Sweden during this period?

>There are a lot of different approaches to the cut 
>of braies for this era, and very little solid evidence to support one 
>over another.  <snip>
>The cut involves two rectangular panels (one for 
>each leg) and a square gusset in the crotch.  The waist is sewn into 
>a casing for a drawstring.  Pictorial evidence suggests that the 
>northern European garment would have been generous in cut and of 
>relatively lightweight fabric.

That was pretty much how I was going to do it. The square gusset is a good idea. I was going to simply make them full enough to fit around the thigh, but I hadn't done a test run of this to deal with the binding issue - that solves the problem ahead of time, it's only a matter of making the square the right size to accomodate the depth of the seat.
The person I am making this for is one of those people that is six places at once, young single male. So I have to accomodate modern practicality in my determined authenticity compulsions. I am torn between using some griege linen or some unknown fibre/burn tested as cellulose based white fabric for the undergarments. Both are the right weight. The kjortel and hosen is a 80% wool/cotton twill, a little lighter than the original, but since he is running about all the time, this is practical for him. I tripped on some wonderful melton wool for the cloak and liripipe, so that isn't an issue. 
 
Kathy



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All,

I'm looking for illustrated instructions on how to do this elaborate 
embroidery stitch. I have an embroidered doublet I am inspired to 
finish, after seeing the examples in _Historical Fashion in Detail_. I 
could swear there was an example in that book, but if there was I cannot 
find it now.

Does anybody know of a web source for this stitch?



Dawn



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Folkwear chinese jacket
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Yes, it is.  About 15 years ago.  It is a pattern that has had a lot of
interpretations through the years, some of which you can find in Art to Wear
Books, for a modern form. It is basically two rectangles front and back.
The front is split neck to hem.  The flare of the fit is created with
unequal pie shapes inserted at the sides, which have a slit about 12 inches.
The inserts produce a somewhat square arm hole . Using two (or three)
layers, the whole is bordered with a strait edged binding.
You can see how this pattern lends itself to wonderful design work. About 40
pieces in all.  The clever bit for the earlier ethnic style would make it
possible to make a rather full garment out of smaller textiles.
Kathleen----- Original Message ----- 
From: "J.A.Urbik" <jaurbik@optonline.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 3:45 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Folkwear chinese jacket


> Lloyd Mitchell wrote:

> > If you have seen the Afghan coat pattern (Folkwear), you will be closer
to
> > the shape in use in the earlier times.  Hansen has a lot of diagrams of
the
> > ethnic shapes generally in use.
> > Kathleen
>
> Kathleen, the only afgan thing that they currently carry is Afghani
> Nomad Dress, 107  (http://www.folkwear.com/107.html)  which i don't
> think is what you are referring to.  Is the pattern you mention an old
one?
>
> Jordana
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>

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Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 21:52:13 -0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1290 patterns
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     Thanks Robin & Melanie for the 75 years list info.  That sounds like it 
will be helpful.

     Teena, it's good to know about the patterns being complicated.  Are there 
any alternatives out there, or are they the best available?

     My friends are Americans living in England, they were in Markland 20 years 
ago, and they know of the SCA.  I'm not sure what group they're considering.  
Due to time constraints, I think she was interested in finding someone to make 
the garb for them.  I thought someone who did that period might be worthwhile, 
as an alternative to having a modern-day seamstress work with a complicated 
pattern.

     Any 1290 costumers out there in England?
     -Carol

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From: "Megan M." <megan@benchite.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Folkwear chinese jacket
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 17:36:33 -0500
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Got a picture anywhere? Now I'm curious to see what the coat looks like and
did not see anything on a cursury search for the pattern.
-Megan

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Lloyd Mitchell
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 4:50 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Folkwear chinese jacket


Yes, it is.  About 15 years ago.  It is a pattern that has had a lot of
interpretations through the years, some of which you can find in Art to Wear
Books, for a modern form. It is basically two rectangles front and back.
The front is split neck to hem.  The flare of the fit is created with
unequal pie shapes inserted at the sides, which have a slit about 12 inches.
The inserts produce a somewhat square arm hole . Using two (or three)
layers, the whole is bordered with a strait edged binding.
You can see how this pattern lends itself to wonderful design work. About 40
pieces in all.  The clever bit for the earlier ethnic style would make it
possible to make a rather full garment out of smaller textiles.
Kathleen----- Original Message -----
From: "J.A.Urbik" <jaurbik@optonline.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 3:45 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Folkwear chinese jacket


> Lloyd Mitchell wrote:

> > If you have seen the Afghan coat pattern (Folkwear), you will be closer
to
> > the shape in use in the earlier times.  Hansen has a lot of diagrams of
the
> > ethnic shapes generally in use.
> > Kathleen
>
> Kathleen, the only afgan thing that they currently carry is Afghani
> Nomad Dress, 107  (http://www.folkwear.com/107.html)  which i don't
> think is what you are referring to.  Is the pattern you mention an old
one?
>
> Jordana
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>

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Turkish coat or Tibet Panel coat?

liz young

Lloyd Mitchell wrote:

>Yes, it is.  About 15 years ago.  It is a pattern that has had a lot of
>interpretations through the years, some of which you can find in Art to Wear
>Books, for a modern form. It is basically two rectangles front and back.
>The front is split neck to hem.  The flare of the fit is created with
>unequal pie shapes inserted at the sides, which have a slit about 12 inches.
>The inserts produce a somewhat square arm hole . Using two (or three)
>layers, the whole is bordered with a strait edged binding.
>You can see how this pattern lends itself to wonderful design work. About 40
>pieces in all.  The clever bit for the earlier ethnic style would make it
>possible to make a rather full garment out of smaller textiles.
>Kathleen----- Original Message ----- 
>From: "J.A.Urbik" <jaurbik@optonline.net>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 3:45 PM
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Folkwear chinese jacket
>
>
>  
>
>>Lloyd Mitchell wrote:
>>    
>>
>
>  
>
>>>If you have seen the Afghan coat pattern (Folkwear), you will be closer
>>>      
>>>
>to
>  
>
>>>the shape in use in the earlier times.  Hansen has a lot of diagrams of
>>>      
>>>
>the
>  
>
>>>ethnic shapes generally in use.
>>>Kathleen
>>>      
>>>
>>Kathleen, the only afgan thing that they currently carry is Afghani
>>Nomad Dress, 107  (http://www.folkwear.com/107.html)  which i don't
>>think is what you are referring to.  Is the pattern you mention an old
>>    
>>
>one?
>  
>



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mongolian Dells
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>They below to a household that tries to to a bunch of >mongolian stuff.  I know *NOTHING* about mongolian stuff.  >Not quite sure what time period, but i would assume around >Gengihs Khan would be the time period i am looking for.

I'm also doing some costuming for a "Horde" of Mongols who are representing the late 15th century.  I didn't know much about the period or the culture, either but found a very little bit on the web--the sites that have been linked.  The way I understand it, broadly stated, earlier Mongol costume looked much like this:

http://www.indiana.edu/~librcsd/etext/tilke/plate/102.jpg
or
http://www.indiana.edu/~librcsd/etext/tilke/plate/104.jpg

and the later (and what is now known as traditional Mongolian costume) looks much like the pattern for the Folkwear Chinese jacket to which you referred.

My customers have provided their own fabric (sometimes this is a good thing ;-), so the coats I'm making have wool outer fabric and silk twill lining (wool fulled, silk washed, both vat dyed.)


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Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2004 19:51:43 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Mari Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] plaited braid stitch
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Oh,  this is one of my all time favorite stitches!

I love the effect and it is really simple,  just looks like it took you 
forever.
I have a small Flemish coif that is white worked on the main of the cap 
with a circle made of this stitch.  People just drool over it, and I'm 
always surprised because it was so little fuss.

I have a DMC book on hardangar which is the source I used to learn the 
stitch.  It's Book 1 or 2 can't recall right off.  Basically its a ground 
of interconnected x's in whatever shape you want,  and then a thread passed 
over and under the ground of x's.  But the plaited thread never goes 
through the canvas,  hence that lovely looped look.  A trick I have picked 
up is on larger scale work to couch down some of the exterior loops,  it 
keeps them from flopping, becoming unbalanced or snagging on your sweeties 
sleeve buttons.   <grin>

Do enjoy it.  It's such a lovely embellishment- and stunning as whitework 
or frostwork.   Really lets the embroidery speak for itself.

Bridgette
         Avid promoter of Plait stitch


>All,
>
>I'm looking for illustrated instructions on how to do this elaborate 
>embroidery stitch. I have an embroidered doublet I am inspired to finish, 
>after seeing the examples in _Historical Fashion in Detail_. I could swear 
>there was an example in that book, but if there was I cannot find it now.
>
>Does anybody know of a web source for this stitch?

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] plaited braid stitch
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Hi, All. The means of creating the plaited braid stitch is illustrated 
in the magazine "Fine Lines", a publication of the Historic Needlwork 
Guild, Inc.  PO Box 8928 New Castle PA 16107 Dont remember the issue 
(the last one, I think)  Contact is hngoffice@aol.com and website at 
www.historicneedlework.com  Good Luck, Mike T.


>

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mudsleidi@cox.net wrote:


> 
  The way I understand it, broadly stated, earlier Mongol costume looked 
much like this:
> 
> http://www.indiana.edu/~librcsd/etext/tilke/plate/102.jpg
> or
> http://www.indiana.edu/~librcsd/etext/tilke/plate/104.jpg
> 


Looks like the Folkwear Tibetan Panel Coat with sleeves added.



Dawn




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This isn't really for public consumption yet (clearly it's about half done) 
but if there's anything helpful here:

http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/trousers/breechesindex.htm

Marc

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Good 1830s bonnet pattern?
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 20:54:32 -0500
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I carry that 1830's bonnet in triple crown buckrum.   See
http://www.victorianmillinery.com/supplies/forms.cfm
Cordially,
Sue Shatto
401 Fairview Ave
Frederick, MD 21701
http:\\www.VictorianMillinery.com
301-694-8950
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Marquesate" <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 1:39 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Good 1830s bonnet pattern?


> Hi All,
>
> Since I had so much fun at the Rochester Dickens festival before
Christmas, I
> am bound to make an 1830s costumes. Does anyone know of a good (!) 1830s
bonnet
> pattern? I want to look as utterly tasteless and 'ugly' as possible.
*chuckle*
>
> Something along the lines of this one, which I had borrowed (which is
straw,
> however, and I am looking for one which can be made with fabric):
>
> http://www.livejournal.com/users/marquesate/23205.html
>
> Cheers
>
> Nicole
>
> =====
> Email: nicole@kipar.org
> Website: http://www.kipar.org
>
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] plaited braid stitch
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 19:55:24 -0600
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I hope this might help you--

http://home.iprimus.com.au/ijerry/sharonb/stitchdict/index.html



-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 3:24 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] plaited braid stitch

All,

I'm looking for illustrated instructions on how to do this elaborate 
embroidery stitch. I have an embroidered doublet I am inspired to 
finish, after seeing the examples in _Historical Fashion in Detail_. I 
could swear there was an example in that book, but if there was I cannot

find it now.

Does anybody know of a web source for this stitch?



Dawn



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Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2004 18:00:29 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Heidi Fox <mudsleidi@cox.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mongolian Dells
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That or Folkwear's Turkish Coat with one front panel extended to further 
overlap the other, and with an extra side gore.  And a center back opening 
to about tailbone--the Mongols were horseriders.

Heidi




>  The way I understand it, broadly stated, earlier Mongol costume looked 
> much like this:
>>http://www.indiana.edu/~librcsd/etext/tilke/plate/102.jpg
>>or
>>http://www.indiana.edu/~librcsd/etext/tilke/plate/104.jpg
>
>
>Looks like the Folkwear Tibetan Panel Coat with sleeves added.
>
>
>
>Dawn
>
>
>
>
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1290 patterns
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>      Teena, it's good to know about the patterns being complicated.  Are
there
> any alternatives out there, or are they the best available?

There's la Fleur de Lyse, but they're in Canada.
http://www3.sympatico.ca/gousse-matte/fdl/Patterns.html#MAR I've never used
them, but they're supposed to be good.
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Folkwear chinese jacket
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>If you have seen the Afghan coat pattern (Folkwear), you will be closer to
>the shape in use in the earlier times.  Hansen has a lot of diagrams of the
>ethnic shapes generally in use.

What about some of the stuff in Tilke?


        CarolynKayta Barrows
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] So, What'd ya get?
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>Nothing directly costume-related, but I did spend some Christmas money
>on the book of the film "Master and Commander", which includes
>fascinating detail about the costumes, such as the trouble they took to
>find the right fabrics (from all over the world), and how they made them
>look well-used.

What's the ISBN on that?  The only books I have from that set are the 20 
volumes of story, the bio of the author, the book of the places mentioned, 
and the cookbook.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Folkwear chinese jacket
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>Turkish coat or Tibet Panel coat?

Max Tilke wrote three books; one on folk art, one showing ethnic people in 
their clothes, and one with just the ethnic garments.  His book on ethnic 
garments has every ethnic thing Folkwear ever published patterns for.  They 
are all drawings, but they show the garments laid out flat so the seams 
show.  If these are different, he shows both front and back.  These have 
all been republished within the last decade or two.  My copy of the garment 
book is pre-ISBN, but my copy of the folk art book is recent.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
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          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Folkwear chinese jacket
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Elizabeth, you are right indeed! The Afghan coat is more like the Turkish
version that differs in the shape of the front overlap.
The Folkwear book of Ethnic clothing that came out last(?) year has the
pattern shapes for the Tibet Panel coat .  The other shapes given for early
Mongolian garments is taken from"Costume Patterns and Designs" by Max Tilke.
There are several pages following the two designs already posted that give a
nice over-view of Chinese clothing development.
I have worked with a lot of these patterns and find them fascinating in the
variety of ways that they are cut, sewn, embellished and such. One begins to
get an idea of how clothing the human form developed in various cultures,
given the fabrics and other materials available.  And especially creating
garments both practical and beautiful and functional.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Elizabeth Young" <lizyoung@fenris.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 5:43 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Folkwear chinese jacket


> Turkish coat or Tibet Panel coat?
>
> liz young
>
> Lloyd Mitchell wrote:
>
> >Yes, it is.  About 15 years ago.  It is a pattern that has had a lot of
> >interpretations through the years, some of which you can find in Art to
Wear
> >Books, for a modern form. It is basically two rectangles front and back.
> >The front is split neck to hem.  The flare of the fit is created with
> >unequal pie shapes inserted at the sides, which have a slit about 12
inches.
> >The inserts produce a somewhat square arm hole . Using two (or three)
> >layers, the whole is bordered with a strait edged binding.
> >You can see how this pattern lends itself to wonderful design work. About
40
> >pieces in all.  The clever bit for the earlier ethnic style would make it
> >possible to make a rather full garment out of smaller textiles.
> >Kathleen----- Original Message ----- 
> >From: "J.A.Urbik" <jaurbik@optonline.net>
> >To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> >Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 3:45 PM
> >Subject: Re: [h-cost] Folkwear chinese jacket
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>Lloyd Mitchell wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >>>If you have seen the Afghan coat pattern (Folkwear), you will be closer
> >>>
> >>>
> >to
> >
> >
> >>>the shape in use in the earlier times.  Hansen has a lot of diagrams of
> >>>
> >>>
> >the
> >
> >
> >>>ethnic shapes generally in use.
> >>>Kathleen
> >>>
> >>>
> >>Kathleen, the only afgan thing that they currently carry is Afghani
> >>Nomad Dress, 107  (http://www.folkwear.com/107.html)  which i don't
> >>think is what you are referring to.  Is the pattern you mention an old
> >>
> >>
> >one?
> >
> >
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <200401052156.i05Lupla006991@jefferson.patriot.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1290 patterns
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 22:38:35 -0500
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Coincidentally, I am making up the Fleur de Lyse's Romanesque men and
women's patterns right now. The instructions are a bit vague... and
everything is in french with a translation. But it is a simple construction
so it isn't a biggie. I haven't finished yet... only the men's bliaut is
done (overtunic). But it looks good so far.

Teena
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 9:34 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1290 patterns


> >      Teena, it's good to know about the patterns being complicated.  Are
> there
> > any alternatives out there, or are they the best available?
>
> There's la Fleur de Lyse, but they're in Canada.
> http://www3.sympatico.ca/gousse-matte/fdl/Patterns.html#MAR I've never
used
> them, but they're supposed to be good.
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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>

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1290 patterns
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 22:44:54 -0500
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On Monday 05 January 2004 09:28 am, Carol Kocian wrote:
> Hello,
>
>       I haven't been involved with medieval reenactment for a while,
> and I had a question from a friend.  Her family is interested in
> years around 1290.  She is in England and asked for us to track down
> & send her these patterns:
>
> Period Pattern #  16 - Universal Tunics, c. 650-1310
> Period Pattern #  21 - Women's Cotehardies
> Period Pattern #  23 - Men's Cotehardies
> Period Pattern #  92 - Capes and Tabbards, c. 650-1650
> Period Pattern # 101 - Medieval Military Garments
>
>       Are they available through AlterYears? 

So far as I know, they are, though I haven't ordered from AlterYears in years.
They were certainly in the last AlterYears catalog I got.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Anything's within walking distance if you have the time." -Steven Wright
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Subject: [h-cost] folkwear pattern
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Lloyd:

I think you're referring to the Tibetan Panel Coat pattern, not the Afghan
pattern. It's number 118 and you can see it on the web site
(www.folkwear.com). I was just looking at it yesterday, that's how I know.

Gail Finke


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>
> >
>
>Delurking for a moment...
>
>I found out (the hard way) that surge protectors only last for a
>couple years.  We had our computer plugged into one, but when we
>experienced a blackout a couple years ago, it blew our hard drive.
>One of the pc tech people at my job explained to me that the
>constants spikes & surges of power "wear out" the surge protector
>after time.
>
>When you have PCs, sewing machines, TVs, etc that are $1000+, it's
>definitely worth it to invest in a $20 surge protector every few
>years!
>
>Back to lurking,
>Mary


Surge protectors have ratings which vary by model and manufacturer; say 
1100 Joules as an example. That means it can protect up to 1100 Joules of 
spike, cumulative. So, if you have a spike of 200 Joules, the protector 
will absorb it, but its now only rated for 900 Joules. Once the protector 
has absorbed its total of 1100 Joules its a glorified extension cord. I 
would recommend changing it yearly at a minimum and always after some major 
event such as a black out.

Pierre


"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed To Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly--
Why They Are Simply Doomed."

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
-- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Folkwear chinese jacket
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>Max Tilke wrote three books; one on folk art, one showing ethnic people in 
>their clothes, and one with just the ethnic garments.  His book on ethnic 
>garments has every ethnic thing Folkwear ever published patterns 
>for.  They are all drawings, but they show the garments laid out flat so 
>the seams show.  If these are different, he shows both front and 
>back.  These have all been republished within the last decade or two.  My 
>copy of the garment book is pre-ISBN, but my copy of the folk art book is 
>recent.
>
>        CarolynKayta Barrows


Actually, the two images to which I linked were from his text which is 
online here:  http://www.indiana.edu/~librcsd/etext/tilke/


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> I'm looking for illustrated instructions on how to do this elaborate
> embroidery stitch.

	Not a web source but there's a very clear diagram in
_Mary_Thomas's_Dictionary_of_Embroidery_Stitches_.

annora

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Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 21:14:03 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question on fur usage (12-14th cen, Tudor,
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At 2:32 PM -0600 1/5/04, Marc Carlson wrote:
>>From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.Berkeley.EDU>

>>over another.  My personal choice has been to go with a cut similar
>>to that seen in the surviving garments of the 14th c. Nubian bishop
>>Timotheos -- not because I think there's any close connection between
>>styles in Nubia and those in northern Europe, but simply because it's
>>one of the plausible designs (on an engineering basis) and the Nubian
>>example at least shows that somebody was using it in a roughly
>>appropriate time.  The cut involves two rectangular panels (one for
>>each leg) and a square gusset in the crotch.  The waist is sewn into
>>a casing for a drawstring.  Pictorial evidence suggests that the
>>northern European garment would have been generous in cut and of
>>relatively lightweight fabric.
>
>I'm unfamiliar with this one.  Do you have a source available? (Must 
>learn more...)

That would be:

Crowfoot, Elisabeth Grace.  1977.  "The Clothing of a 
Fourteenth-Century Nubian Bishop" in  Studies in Textile History, ed. 
Veronika Gervers.  Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto.

A nice detailed descriptive article.  The surviving outfit is 
essentially complete, having taken the hot/dry route to survival.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose (you may now call me Doctor) Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 21:57:22 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>, h-costume@net.indra.com
From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bocksten (was Question on fur usage)
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At 4:15 PM -0500 1/5/04, Kathy Page wrote:
>Heather wrote:
>
>>Pictorial evidence suggests that the style of separate-leg hose 
>>found in >this outfit are normally worn with linen braies 
>>underneath that are long >enough to overlap with the hose <snip> 
>>Similarly, pictorial evidence >suggests an undertunic of a roughly 
>>similar cut to the woolen one.
>
>I'm slowly working my way through Nockert's book on the topic with 
>the help of a Swedish friend, I had pretty much assumed even before 
>this that linens would not have survived. The undertunic design I 
>had planned on was very very simple, using the _don't cut it if it's 
>not necessary_ philosophy.  I had started basing it on the Viborg 
>shirt, but I am waiting to slowly


It's a little hard to know how the Viborg shirt fits in with the flow 
of styles -- whether it's a peculiarly Scandinavian style with long 
usage, or the tail end of an older style on its way out, or something 
even more isolated.  If you accept Nockert's dating of the Bocksten 
man, there's three centuries between the two, which is a bit of a gap 
for that era.  (If it were three centuries on the other side of the 
Viborg date, I might have fewer worries ... although I might also be 
wrong.)


>wade my way through the rest of what the book has to say before I 
>dig much deeper. (Mostly it's plain ol curiosity, I have my doubts 
>that there is much more than what has already been translated 
>available in there.) The Skjoldehamn under tunic is a thought as 
>well, although the collar seems incongruent to use under the 
>Bocksten kjortel. Is there pictorial evidence either way suggesting 
>this cominbation was used at all? Do you know of where I can find 
>artwork that is relevant to Sweden during this period?


I don't know much about the Skjoldehamn garments.  The only two 
tunic-like garments from the site that I have any information on are 
wool, so I'm not familiar with any arguments for one or the other 
being an undertunic.

I know there are a good number of manuscript illustrations from 
Sweden and elsewhere in Scandinavia around the 13-14th c., but it can 
be a bit of work to track them down, since most popular publications 
seem to think that Scandiavian history ends after the Vikings.  I 
don't know that they're going to give you much detail on 
undergarments unless you're lucky enough to catch people in a state 
of undress.  I'm not very good on specific sources for Sweden.  My 
favorite source for Denmark in this era is an extensive series of 
books on church wall-paintings, which I'm fond of because they strike 
me as being a little more reliably vernacular in style, which one 
can't always depend on with manuscripts.  But there's more material 
out there than you might think.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose (you may now call me Doctor) Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 21:57:22 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>, h-costume@net.indra.com
From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bocksten (was Question on fur usage)
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At 4:15 PM -0500 1/5/04, Kathy Page wrote:
>Heather wrote:
>
>>Pictorial evidence suggests that the style of separate-leg hose 
>>found in >this outfit are normally worn with linen braies 
>>underneath that are long >enough to overlap with the hose <snip> 
>>Similarly, pictorial evidence >suggests an undertunic of a roughly 
>>similar cut to the woolen one.
>
>I'm slowly working my way through Nockert's book on the topic with 
>the help of a Swedish friend, I had pretty much assumed even before 
>this that linens would not have survived. The undertunic design I 
>had planned on was very very simple, using the _don't cut it if it's 
>not necessary_ philosophy.  I had started basing it on the Viborg 
>shirt, but I am waiting to slowly


It's a little hard to know how the Viborg shirt fits in with the flow 
of styles -- whether it's a peculiarly Scandinavian style with long 
usage, or the tail end of an older style on its way out, or something 
even more isolated.  If you accept Nockert's dating of the Bocksten 
man, there's three centuries between the two, which is a bit of a gap 
for that era.  (If it were three centuries on the other side of the 
Viborg date, I might have fewer worries ... although I might also be 
wrong.)


>wade my way through the rest of what the book has to say before I 
>dig much deeper. (Mostly it's plain ol curiosity, I have my doubts 
>that there is much more than what has already been translated 
>available in there.) The Skjoldehamn under tunic is a thought as 
>well, although the collar seems incongruent to use under the 
>Bocksten kjortel. Is there pictorial evidence either way suggesting 
>this cominbation was used at all? Do you know of where I can find 
>artwork that is relevant to Sweden during this period?


I don't know much about the Skjoldehamn garments.  The only two 
tunic-like garments from the site that I have any information on are 
wool, so I'm not familiar with any arguments for one or the other 
being an undertunic.

I know there are a good number of manuscript illustrations from 
Sweden and elsewhere in Scandinavia around the 13-14th c., but it can 
be a bit of work to track them down, since most popular publications 
seem to think that Scandiavian history ends after the Vikings.  I 
don't know that they're going to give you much detail on 
undergarments unless you're lucky enough to catch people in a state 
of undress.  I'm not very good on specific sources for Sweden.  My 
favorite source for Denmark in this era is an extensive series of 
books on church wall-paintings, which I'm fond of because they strike 
me as being a little more reliably vernacular in style, which one 
can't always depend on with manuscripts.  But there's more material 
out there than you might think.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose (you may now call me Doctor) Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2004 22:26:35 -0800
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Green Duck Designs...
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At 11:30 AM 1/5/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>I really miss stores like theirs at events. I always looked forward
>to seeing what new costume/history sources they had been able to
>ferret out for us to expand our libraries and our knowledge base.
>There are still some out there, but they don't have the same name
>value. At least we still have Pastiche!
>
>Kat


Hi Kat and all,

I am so sorry to hear this. Another fine vendor/crafter out of the faire 
circuit that I loved. I bought my beloved QEWU from them because I couldn't 
find it anywhere in my city, or any other bookstore at the time (before 
Amazon.com).

They will be missed, and sadly I don't see anyone else doing as well a job 
as they for books and such costume items that they carried at faire. I am 
beginning to think small faires should rename themselves as Indian 
caravans, from all the cheap Indian/Asian made goods most of the vendors 
are now selling, from weapons, to the brightly colored "stuff" that so many 
resale. I miss the good craftspeople and the vendors like Green Duck and 
Das Eidelweiss that sold high quality goods, and/or lots of books.

But that is a rant for another list.

Oh, what is Pastiche?

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

Costume Mistress for Isle of Mann Guild
Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
http://www.costumegallery.com 

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Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 02:08:56 -0500 (EST)
From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
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Marc wrote:
 
This isn't really for public consumption yet (clearly it's about half 
done) but if there's anything helpful here:

http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/trousers/breechesindex.htm

Yes it is. Very much!
 
Kathy



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bocksten (was Question on fur usage)
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On Mon, 5 Jan 2004, Heather Rose Jones wrote:
> I know there are a good number of manuscript illustrations from 
> Sweden and elsewhere in Scandinavia around the 13-14th c., 

Another nifty source, although Norwegian, are the medieval altar
frontals, some wf which are published in this book:  
http://museum.uib.no/bm/publikasjoner/frontalene.html My copy of the
book's at home and I'm at work so I can't check how many frontals are
represented, but these are great stuff (although the picture quality
isn't perfect). And all the text about them is given in both Norwegian
and English, so you don't miss out if you don't read Norwegian. The text
doesn't deal with clothing specifically, but some of these frontals are
absolutely wonderful. :)They ship internationally, but their order form
is only in Norwegian:  
http://museum.uib.no/bm/publikasjoner/bestilling.html . It costs NOK
200, which is about US$30 right now.

I haven't looked that much at Swedish sources, but I do recall Eva
Andersson (who is working on her doctoral thesis on Swedish and
Norwegian medieval clothing from wills) saying at a lecture last summer
that there seems to be some small difference between clothing in art
from the two countries. From what I can recall apparently the Swedish
clothing showed a bit less continental influence, for example males were
much more rarely shown wearing the "kveiv"/coif. But the general look of
the clothes are much the same in both countries, at least from what I've
seen.

You may also be interested in looking at Eva's article for NESAT spring 
2002 (apparently it's not been printed so she webbed it) 
http://w1.311.comhem.se/~u31138198/writtentraces.html . In it she mainly 
deals with sources and methods, but there's a bit of interesting info on 
Swedish and Norwegian clothing as well. :)

Ingrid





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From: "Dawn Wood" <dawn@agesofelegance.co.uk>
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References: <200401052156.i05Lupla006991@jefferson.patriot.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1290 patterns
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 11:18:16 -0000
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I make for all periods so may be able to help depending on deadline time

Dawn
Ages Of Elegance makers of historical clothing, uniforms and bridalwear
http://www.agesofelegance.co.uk 0113 277 6716
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <aquazoo@patriot.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 9:52 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1290 patterns


>
>      Thanks Robin & Melanie for the 75 years list info.  That sounds like
it
> will be helpful.
>
>      Teena, it's good to know about the patterns being complicated.  Are
there
> any alternatives out there, or are they the best available?
>
>      My friends are Americans living in England, they were in Markland 20
years
> ago, and they know of the SCA.  I'm not sure what group they're
considering.
> Due to time constraints, I think she was interested in finding someone to
make
> the garb for them.  I thought someone who did that period might be
worthwhile,
> as an alternative to having a modern-day seamstress work with a
complicated
> pattern.
>
>      Any 1290 costumers out there in England?
>      -Carol
>
> _______________________________________________


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On Tuesday 06 January 2004 01:26 am, Kimiko Small wrote:
> At 11:30 AM 1/5/2004 -0800, you wrote:
[snip]

> Oh, what is Pastiche?

A book store in Oregon, I believe, that often has rare costume books; I've 
dealt with them by phone and email several times.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Anything's within walking distance if you have the time." -Steven Wright
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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Dr Maturin's banyan, was So, what'd ya get?
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Costume supervisor Jim Tyson is quoted as saying "The banyan, an Indian
fabric, is one of his (Maturin's) eccentricities. It's like him saying
"This is my bush coat"."  The caption to a photograph showing the banyan
says that they were "commonly worn by people who had travelled widely".
That's all.

I'd always thought a banyan was like a dressing gown (robe). Perhaps
they made Stephen's shorter than usual so it was easier to walk about
in.


Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby
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0007163983  (0007157711 paperback)

>>> kayta@frys.com 06/01/04 02:51:10 >>>

>Nothing directly costume-related, but I did spend some Christmas
money
>on the book of the film "Master and Commander", which includes
>fascinating detail about the costumes, such as the trouble they took
to
>find the right fabrics (from all over the world), and how they made
them
>look well-used.

What's the ISBN on that?  The only books I have from that set are the
20 
volumes of story, the bio of the author, the book of the places
mentioned, 
and the cookbook.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com 

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Yes, the banyan was a long dressing gown. But it is my understanding that it
was a very popular thing to be worn by gentlemen when at home regardless of
how much they had traveled. Or maybe it started that way and then became the
fashion... like khaki pants today.

Teena
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2004 8:27 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Dr Maturin's banyan, was So, what'd ya get?


> Costume supervisor Jim Tyson is quoted as saying "The banyan, an Indian
> fabric, is one of his (Maturin's) eccentricities. It's like him saying
> "This is my bush coat"."  The caption to a photograph showing the banyan
> says that they were "commonly worn by people who had travelled widely".
> That's all.
>
> I'd always thought a banyan was like a dressing gown (robe). Perhaps
> they made Stephen's shorter than usual so it was easier to walk about
> in.
>
>
> Kate Bunting
> Library, University of Derby
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>

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: plaited braid stitch
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Hi, All. The means of creating the plaited braid stitch is illustrated 
in the magazine "Fine Lines", a publication of the Historic Needlwork 
Guild, Inc.  PO Box 8928 New Castle PA 16107 Dont remember the issue 
(the last one, I think)  Contact is hngoffice@aol.com and website at 
www.historicneedlework.com  Good Luck, Mike T.
****************************************

Actually, it was in the last two issues.  A very nicely illustrated
how-to by Leon Conrad.  He has studied this stitch very carefully and
came up with this new way of tackling it and explains some of this on
his website:  http://www.leonconraddesigns.freeserve.co.uk/pbs.htm 

"Fine Lines" is also availabe from Wyndham Needleworks:
http://www.wyndhamneedleworks.com/  

Catherine
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Has anyone ever tried that pattern? Or perhaps have a better choice? I wanted to wait for E-lady but am getting down to the wire time-wise. I am sick to death of drafting.
 Any help is; as always, greatly appreciated Angelique


---------------------------------
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] period patterns early tudor womens gowns?
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I am getting ready to try it but Noelle (Belle of the Bay - is she on this
list?) has and said some nice things about it. Apparently they got the
neckline perfect. Are you on the garb4sale yahoo list? She recently posted
some pictures in her folder there of what she has so far of this gown.

Teena

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "me" <ivycircle@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2004 10:11 AM
Subject: [h-cost] period patterns early tudor womens gowns?


> Has anyone ever tried that pattern? Or perhaps have a better choice? I
wanted to wait for E-lady but am getting down to the wire time-wise. I am
sick to death of drafting.
>  Any help is; as always, greatly appreciated Angelique
>
>
> ---------------------------------
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>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1290 patterns
References: <200401052156.i05Lupla006991@jefferson.patriot.net>	<BAY9-DAV42XsL1c00go00021fb7@hotmail.com>
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If you are at the top end of the size range, remember to double check 
the diameter of the upper arm. I didn't, and the sleeve is almost 
uncomfortably snug.
I liked the patterns, I just didn't remember to check *all* the 
measurments. Which I ought to do. :)

liz young

Teena Paradise wrote:

>Coincidentally, I am making up the Fleur de Lyse's Romanesque men and
>women's patterns right now. The instructions are a bit vague... and
>everything is in french with a translation. But it is a simple construction
>so it isn't a biggie. I haven't finished yet... only the men's bliaut is
>done (overtunic). But it looks good so far.
>
>Teena
>----- Original Message ----- 
>From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 9:34 PM
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1290 patterns
>
>
>  
>
>>>     Teena, it's good to know about the patterns being complicated.  Are
>>>      
>>>
>>there
>>    
>>
>>>any alternatives out there, or are they the best available?
>>>      
>>>
>>There's la Fleur de Lyse, but they're in Canada.
>>http://www3.sympatico.ca/gousse-matte/fdl/Patterns.html#MAR I've never
>>    
>>
>used
>  
>
>>them, but they're supposed to be good.
>>_______________________________________________
>>    
>>



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I had never heard of the Folkwear book until now. I checked the web site and
they only have a picture of the cover. Is it good? Would those of you who
have it recommend it? If you've seen it and haven't bought it, why not?
Thanks --

Gail Finke



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From: KATHRYN WOLTERS <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] folkwear book
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I'd reccommend it. I've found it very useful on ethnic costumne.
Albra

Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net> wrote:

I had never heard of the Folkwear book until now. I checked the web site and
they only have a picture of the cover. Is it good? Would those of you who
have it recommend it? If you've seen it and haven't bought it, why not?
Thanks --

Gail Finke



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From: "Ron Carnegie" <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Dr Maturin's banyan, was So, what'd ya get?
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 12:08:16 -0500
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   A few years ago I attended a conference on early American science (18th
and early 19th century).  One of the sessions was on the depiction of
science in art.  It showed that a surprising number of "thinkers" in the
period choose to have their portraits made while wearing banyans.  The
speaker suggested that this showed that the wearer was free to think on
loftier things, not being bothered by lifes formalities or difficulties.
While I do not know if any of that is true, the fact that these natural
philosophers choose to be represented at their ease most certainly is.  I
suspect that the movie's costumer looked at several paintings of travellers
(many of whom like Maturin happen to by naturalists and botanists) and made
an assumption that was correct but for the wrong reason.  I was impressed
that Maturin was in the banyan, but I thought they were showing his
Scientific leanings rather than his wandering ones.  (Besides, untill
joining with Aubrey, Maturin was not exactly a traveller though he was
raised in two countries).

Ron Carnegie

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Teena Paradise
> Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2004 9:07 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dr Maturin's banyan, was So, what'd ya get?
>
>
> Yes, the banyan was a long dressing gown. But it is my
> understanding that it
> was a very popular thing to be worn by gentlemen when at home
> regardless of
> how much they had traveled. Or maybe it started that way and then
> became the
> fashion... like khaki pants today.
>
> Teena
> >
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] period patterns early tudor womens gowns?
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Teena:

Which pattern is this?

Laura
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	<3FFAE08C.6060504@fenris.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1290 patterns
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Yes, I noticed that on the chemise. The wrist almost couldn't fit over my
hand with the medium/large size. Luckily, I made a muslin and noticed. ;-)
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Elizabeth Young" <lizyoung@fenris.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2004 11:21 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1290 patterns


> If you are at the top end of the size range, remember to double check
> the diameter of the upper arm. I didn't, and the sleeve is almost
> uncomfortably snug.
> I liked the patterns, I just didn't remember to check *all* the
> measurments. Which I ought to do. :)
>
> liz young
>
> Teena Paradise wrote:
>
> >Coincidentally, I am making up the Fleur de Lyse's Romanesque men and
> >women's patterns right now. The instructions are a bit vague... and
> >everything is in french with a translation. But it is a simple
construction
> >so it isn't a biggie. I haven't finished yet... only the men's bliaut is
> >done (overtunic). But it looks good so far.
> >
> >Teena
> >----- Original Message ----- 
> >From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com>
> >To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> >Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 9:34 PM
> >Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1290 patterns
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>>     Teena, it's good to know about the patterns being complicated.
Are
> >>>
> >>>
> >>there
> >>
> >>
> >>>any alternatives out there, or are they the best available?
> >>>
> >>>
> >>There's la Fleur de Lyse, but they're in Canada.
> >>http://www3.sympatico.ca/gousse-matte/fdl/Patterns.html#MAR I've never
> >>
> >>
> >used
> >
> >
> >>them, but they're supposed to be good.
> >>_______________________________________________
> >>
> >>
>
>
>
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>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] period patterns early tudor womens gowns?
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The Period Patterns Early Tudor Women's Pattern
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <MysticsLady9@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2004 11:56 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] period patterns early tudor womens gowns?


> Teena:
> 
> Which pattern is this?
> 
> Laura
> _______________________________________________
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> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] period patterns early tudor womens gowns?
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To be a slightly more specific, its Period Patterns no 51: Early Tudor
Womens Gowns, c. 1490-1535

Muirgheal
who is currently struggling with 30 lbs of black velvet thats a half
assembled View II (Elizabeth of York) . .and 12th night is Saturdy.


> The Period Patterns Early Tudor Women's Pattern
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <MysticsLady9@aol.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2004 11:56 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] period patterns early tudor womens gowns?
>
>
> > Teena:
> >
> > Which pattern is this?
> >
> > Laura
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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> > Oh, what is Pastiche?
> 
> A book store in Oregon, I believe, that often has rare costume books;
> I've dealt with them by phone and email several times.

They also travel to trade shows and some SCA events. (They were at 
Great Western War, for example, but are more likely to be seen in 
Washington and Oregon.)

Asha told me that one of the reasons why she just bought a new large 
house is that Pastiche had gotten too big for Foggy's basement. ;)

They can do booksearches and Asha sometimes finds some pretty 
spectacular things when she travels (especially when she goes out of 
the US). Primarily they sell used books but occasionally will sell 
new ones like Drea's or Nancy Spies'. They carry not just costuming 
books but textiles books, cook books, history books, and just about 
any craft you can think of. I usually make the sign warding off the 
evil eye when Asha calls out "hey, Kat. I think I have something that 
you might be interested in." She's just plain evil!

They also sell fabric (mostly natural fibre and fancy brocades) and 
trim, as well as assorted other items like beads, notions, buttons 
and the like.

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Date: Tue, 06 Jan 2004 11:21:36 -0800
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Green Duck Designs...
From: Lynn Downward <LDownward@chori.org>
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How do you contact Asha at Pastiche? I don't do SCA events so I doubt I'd
see her at one.
Thanks,
LynnD

On 1/6/04 11:17 AM, "kat@grendal.rain.com" <kat@grendal.rain.com> wrote:

>>> Oh, what is Pastiche?
>> 
>> A book store in Oregon, I believe, that often has rare costume books;
>> I've dealt with them by phone and email several times.
> 
> They also travel to trade shows and some SCA events. (They were at
> Great Western War, for example, but are more likely to be seen in
> Washington and Oregon.)
> 
> Asha told me that one of the reasons why she just bought a new large
> house is that Pastiche had gotten too big for Foggy's basement. ;)
> 
> They can do booksearches and Asha sometimes finds some pretty
> spectacular things when she travels (especially when she goes out of
> the US). Primarily they sell used books but occasionally will sell
> new ones like Drea's or Nancy Spies'. They carry not just costuming
> books but textiles books, cook books, history books, and just about
> any craft you can think of. I usually make the sign warding off the
> evil eye when Asha calls out "hey, Kat. I think I have something that
> you might be interested in." She's just plain evil!
> 
> They also sell fabric (mostly natural fibre and fancy brocades) and
> trim, as well as assorted other items like beads, notions, buttons
> and the like.
> 
> Kat
> <kat@redtrollforge.com>
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dr Maturin's banyan, was So, what'd ya get?
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In a message dated 1/6/2004 8:31:51 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk writes:
I'd always thought a banyan was like a dressing gown (robe). Perhaps
they made Stephen's shorter than usual so it was easier to walk about
in.
As I said, I have seen one pictoral example of a short one.  There is an 
illustration in the Musee Carnavalet that shows a variety of people buying milk 
from a milkmaid, circa 1810.  One man is wearing a brightly printed, but short, 
coat.

Other examples of banyans I've seen are also long--almost ankle-length.

Ann Wass
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Subject: [h-cost] Shawl
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A colleague brought in an item called a shawl, that we think dates from the 
late 19th century.  But it is HUGE--118" x 58".  It is a lightweight twill 
weave wool plaid in green, black, violet, red, and white, and has a 3"  fringe.  
It is most likely from Pennsylvania.  Does anyone know anything about these and 
how they would have been worn?
Ann Wass
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Question on fur usage (12-14th cen, Tudor,
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>From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.Berkeley.EDU>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question on fur usage (12-14th cen, Tudor,
> >I'm unfamiliar with this one.  Do you have a source available? (Must
> >learn more...)
>That would be:
>Crowfoot, Elisabeth Grace.  1977.  "The Clothing of a
>Fourteenth-Century Nubian Bishop" in  Studies in Textile History, ed.
>Veronika Gervers.  Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto.
>A nice detailed descriptive article.  The surviving outfit is
>essentially complete, having taken the hot/dry route to survival.

Coolness, thank you.

Now off to annoy my ILL librarian -- wait, I *am* my ILL librarian...  :)

Marc

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Shawl
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I don't know if this applies to your shawl, but I have heard that some of
the larger sizes are actually 'piano shawls' and not intended for people
to wear. They would have been decoratively draped across the baby grand
in the music room for added color. I believe they were popular in the
1920's.

Once again, don't know if your shawl is one of these, or how accurate my
information was, but it's something to be aware of when attempting to
determine what an item was used for.



Karen


On Tue, 6 Jan 2004 14:27:45 EST AnnBWass@aol.com writes:
> A colleague brought in an item called a shawl, that we think dates 
> from the 
> late 19th century.  But it is HUGE--118" x 58".  It is a lightweight 
> twill 
> weave wool plaid in green, black, violet, red, and white, and has a 
> 3"  fringe.  
> It is most likely from Pennsylvania.  Does anyone know anything 
> about these and 
> how they would have been worn?
> Ann Wass
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Shawl
From: Lynn Downward <LDownward@chori.org>
To: h costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Something I can really answer!

There were several types of shawl in the late 19th Century. One style was a
58" square. It was folded diagonally and wrapped around the body. For colder
weather, the 118"x58" shawl was folded in half to make the 58" square and
then folded into the triangle and used. Evidently, Abraham Lincoln suffered
from the cold and had one (or more) of these huge shawls.

LynnD

On 1/6/04 11:27 AM, "AnnBWass@aol.com" <AnnBWass@aol.com> wrote:

> A colleague brought in an item called a shawl, that we think dates from the
> late 19th century.  But it is HUGE--118" x 58".  It is a lightweight twill
> weave wool plaid in green, black, violet, red, and white, and has a 3"
> fringe.  
> It is most likely from Pennsylvania.  Does anyone know anything about these
> and 
> how they would have been worn?
> Ann Wass
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] folkwear book
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Gail & Scott Finke wrote:

> I had never heard of the Folkwear book until now. I checked the web site and
> they only have a picture of the cover. Is it good? Would those of you who
> have it recommend it? If you've seen it and haven't bought it, why not?
> Thanks --

I looked at several online reviews that had pictures and comments by 
other costumers/ sewers. I passed on it this year, it didn't seem like 
it offered "enough" for my current interests. It looked like it was a 
big picture book of embellishment, which isn't a focus of mine at the 
moment. For the $30 cover price I could think of several other titles 
I'd rather have.

However, I'm finding it now in the $11-14 range and I might just pick it 
up. A friend of mine expressed interest in the Tibetan Panel Coat, and 
that's one of the included patterns. I could get the book, with that, a 
couple other patterns they include, and all the pretty pictures for the 
price of the retail pattern.



Dawn



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Subject: [h-cost] Help identifying an item
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I have what I *thought* was lace making things. I'll take a pic when I get the digital camera fixed (my web cam takes pics but they are awful) it has a set of what look like mini clothespins less than 2 inches long a small t shaped item and a card (like a floss card) with some heavy string on it. All of this is packed into a small silk purse. All the items are IMO bakelite. Anyone have any thoughts?

Bice

=============================
On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb  
For the month of January
list people get $2 off shipping Check
out the three auctions with weaving books
Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
www.swapking.com/hats
=============================
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In a message dated 1/6/2004 2:58:35 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
LDownward@chori.org writes:
Something I can really answer!

There were several types of shawl in the late 19th Century. One style was a
58" square. It was folded diagonally and wrapped around the body. For colder
weather, the 118"x58" shawl was folded in half to make the 58" square and
then folded into the triangle and used. Evidently, Abraham Lincoln suffered
from the cold and had one (or more) of these huge shawls.
Thanks.  That does make sense.  The fabric is very lightweight.

Ann Wass
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From: "Cyn Bucheger" <cbucheger@paclp.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Museum Visit
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This pass week I took my granddaughter and daughter to a local museum so the
five year old could go to the children's activities this museum advertised.
We also toured the main build because Hazel (the five year old) wanted to
look at "art".  She's been to other museums and really enjoyed them.  This
museum however was less "art" orientated, and had more Texas history items
on display and a lot of interactive things that she could touch and do,
include various types of saddles to sit upon and so on.

What is relevant to this list is the textile section.  Most of the garments
were from the mid to late 1800's, about twenty or thirty selections.  While
the garments were behind a plexi-glass half wall, they were very close to
the adult viewer.  Also many of the garments were on an island display in
the room so you could see from and back of the garments.  Instead of just
listing the date of the garment they explained why something was dated to
1840, regarding the bustle, the drop of the shoulders and so on.
What I really liked was a section that had a corset with a small interactive
display with a piece of "raw" baleen, then strips of the baleen, steel
boning, wrapped quills and modern plastic boning that you could touch.
The second favorite was the gown that they showed a picture of it, then the
display was of the gown turned inside out, so you could see the hand
stitching, the placement of boning and so on.  It's not my period was a
really cool display, I really enjoyed it and thought you all would like to
know about it.

If you're ever in San Antonio TX, stop by the Witte Art Museum, it is small
but worth your while.

Cyn


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Cyn Bucheger wrote:

> What I really liked was a section that had a corset with a small
interactive
> display with a piece of "raw" baleen, then strips of the baleen, steel
> boning, wrapped quills and modern plastic boning that you could touch.

Wrapped quills how interesting!  What were they like and what did they wrap
them with.  What sort of quills?

Lisa Sinervo (working on my own little collection for people to fiddle with)
www.thrednedlestrete.com




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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help identifying an item
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Status: RO

As a child, I was once given a little box containing some miniature
clothespegs and a washing line made of elastic. They were given to me as
a toy but I think they were really intended for a woman to dry her nylon
stockings. Could your set be something similar?  I'm not sure what you
mean by a floss card, but heavy string would have made a better line
than that flimsy elastic.

>>> wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com 06/01/04 19:59:14 >>>
I have what I *thought* was lace making things. I'll take a pic when I
get the digital camera fixed (my web cam takes pics but they are awful)
it has a set of what look like mini clothespins less than 2 inches long
a small t shaped item and a card (like a floss card) with some heavy
string on it. All of this is packed into a small silk purse. All the
items are IMO bakelite. Anyone have any thoughts?

Bice

=============================
On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb  
For the month of January
list people get $2 off shipping Check
out the three auctions with weaving books
Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
www.swapking.com/hats 
=============================
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Bice d'Este wrote:
> it has a set of what look like mini clothespins less than 2
> inches long a small t shaped item and a card (like a floss card) with
> some heavy string on it.

Sounds rather like the lingerie-drying clothesline set that my Mom had; 
she gave it to me for doll clothes.  Pastel spring clothespins.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

   "Such virtue hath my pen...."  -Shakespeare, Sonnet 81
        "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!"  --Cynthia V.
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help identifying an item
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Status: RO

You know that thought DID cross my mind as well so maybe one of the t's are
missing? Floss card: what you wrap your floss around when you unravel the
skein. They are usually thin white cardboard.

=============================
On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
For the month of January
list people get $2 off shipping Check
out the three auctions with weaving books
Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
www.swapking.com/hats
=============================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: January 06, 2004 3:36 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help identifying an item


> As a child, I was once given a little box containing some miniature
> clothespegs and a washing line made of elastic. They were given to me as
> a toy but I think they were really intended for a woman to dry her nylon
> stockings. Could your set be something similar?  I'm not sure what you
> mean by a floss card, but heavy string would have made a better line
> than that flimsy elastic.
>
> >>> wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com 06/01/04 19:59:14 >>>
> I have what I *thought* was lace making things. I'll take a pic when I
> get the digital camera fixed (my web cam takes pics but they are awful)
> it has a set of what look like mini clothespins less than 2 inches long
> a small t shaped item and a card (like a floss card) with some heavy
> string on it. All of this is packed into a small silk purse. All the
> items are IMO bakelite. Anyone have any thoughts?
>
> Bice
>
> =============================
> On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
> For the month of January
> list people get $2 off shipping Check
> out the three auctions with weaving books
> Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
> www.swapking.com/hats
> =============================
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> This email has been scanned for all viruses by the MessageLabs Email
> Security System. For more information on a proactive email security
> service working around the clock, around the globe, visit
> http://www.messagelabs.com
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Kate Bunting
> Library, University of Derby
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help identifying an item
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Status: RO

Yup these are peg style of bakelite. Looks almost like ivory. Any thoughts
on value? It'll be an ebay item.

=============================
On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
For the month of January
list people get $2 off shipping Check
out the three auctions with weaving books
Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
www.swapking.com/hats
=============================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cynthia Virtue" <cvirtue+dated+1088973524.4554b1@thibault.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: January 06, 2004 3:42 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help identifying an item


> Bice d'Este wrote:
> > it has a set of what look like mini clothespins less than 2
> > inches long a small t shaped item and a card (like a floss card) with
> > some heavy string on it.
>
> Sounds rather like the lingerie-drying clothesline set that my Mom had;
> she gave it to me for doll clothes.  Pastel spring clothespins.
>
> -- 
> Cynthia Virtue and/or
> Cynthia du Pré Argent
>
>    "Such virtue hath my pen...."  -Shakespeare, Sonnet 81
>         "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!"  --Cynthia V.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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	<001801c3d496$305278c0$642ea5d1@pavilion>
Subject: Re: corset boning - Re: [h-cost] Museum Visit
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 14:42:36 -0600
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Status: RO

I believe they were goose quills, feathers removed and wrapped with thread,
though I don't recall if it was a simple wrap around or something more like
a buttonhole stitch that covered the quill almost completely.  I recall
rather regularly spaced wraps which is why I'm leaning toward stitches.
Cyn


>
> Cyn Bucheger wrote:
>
> > What I really liked was a section that had a corset with a small
> interactive
> > display with a piece of "raw" baleen, then strips of the baleen, steel
> > boning, wrapped quills and modern plastic boning that you could touch.
>
> Wrapped quills how interesting!  What were they like and what did they
wrap
> them with.  What sort of quills?
>
> Lisa Sinervo (working on my own little collection for people to fiddle
with)
> www.thrednedlestrete.com
>
>
>


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Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 21:02:36 -0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: corset boning - Re: [h-cost] Museum Visit
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     Was it this list, or a different one - Carol Huff mentioned that she 
recently got a featherboning attachment for a sewing machine.  I know of 
featherboning as being that nasty plastic stuff you can still get that bends 
and buckles very easily.  Carol explained that the original featherboning was 
actually made out of feathers, and she was interested in seeing some.


Cyn Bucheger <cbucheger@paclp.com> said:
> I believe they were goose quills, feathers removed and wrapped with thread,
> though I don't recall if it was a simple wrap around or something more like
> a buttonhole stitch that covered the quill almost completely.  I recall
> rather regularly spaced wraps which is why I'm leaning toward stitches.
> Cyn


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] folkwear book
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>I had never heard of the Folkwear book until now. I checked the web site and
>they only have a picture of the cover. Is it good? Would those of you who
>have it recommend it? If you've seen it and haven't bought it, why not?

I haven't seen it, but have heard of it.  My guess is that Tilke's book 
contains everything in it plus ;much more.  I do have Tilke's book, and use 
it a lot.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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From: Gia_Gavino@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]Tilke and  folkwear book
Date: Tue, 06 Jan 2004 21:44:45 +0000
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Tilke's book is wonderful and is my preference for such patterns, rather than folkwear.  Although I *also* love Folkwear...but use them more for modern wear than for my historical facsimile clothing.  I think I have most of their patterns, but not all (rats!).

But then, I a real *nut* and love to make my own patterns for what I wear for historical 'facsimile' wear when I "Play".

Gia/Giacinta
> 
> >I had never heard of the Folkwear book until now. I checked the web site and
> >they only have a picture of the cover. Is it good? Would those of you who
> >have it recommend it? If you've seen it and haven't bought it, why not?
> 
> I haven't seen it, but have heard of it.  My guess is that Tilke's book 
> contains everything in it plus ;much more.  I do have Tilke's book, and use 
> it a lot.
> 
> 
>         CarolynKayta Barrows
> dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
>           www.FunStuft.com
> 
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Date: Tue, 06 Jan 2004 13:46:21 -0800
Subject: Re: [h-cost] folkwear book
From: Lynn Downward <LDownward@chori.org>
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This book is really lovely; I spent an hour at a party early last year with
someone else pouring over the pictures but not reading the text. It seemed
to me that there may have been flat patterns to work with, but it mostly
showed a variety of different ways to decorate the clothing - piecework,
embroidery, beading, etc., both from traditional and contemporary
decorating. I can't even tell you if you can make the clothing from the book
or not. I've never seen Tilke's book - not my interest, so I cannot compare
the two. The book was an explosion of colors and textiles and that's what I
was looking at at the time. I can't tell you if it was a how-to book or a
look-what-can-be-and-has-been-done book.
LynnD

On 1/6/04 1:02 PM, "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com> wrote:

> 
>> I had never heard of the Folkwear book until now. I checked the web site and
>> they only have a picture of the cover. Is it good? Would those of you who
>> have it recommend it? If you've seen it and haven't bought it, why not?
> 
> I haven't seen it, but have heard of it.  My guess is that Tilke's book
> contains everything in it plus ;much more.  I do have Tilke's book, and use
> it a lot.
> 
> 
>       CarolynKayta Barrows
> dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
>         www.FunStuft.com
> 
>             //// \\\
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] folkwear book
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At 11:31 AM 1/6/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>I had never heard of the Folkwear book until now. I checked the web site and
>they only have a picture of the cover. Is it good? Would those of you who
>have it recommend it? If you've seen it and haven't bought it, why not?
>Thanks --
>
>Gail Finke


Hi Gail,

I just got it for Christmas from a friend. I like the book. I had held off 
on getting it because I have several of the patterns already, but it is 
much more than the patterns, it is the history and the embroidery and many 
photos of the garments as originally worn. The patterns in the book are to 
be blown up on a copier, usually at 200%, and then used as is. I am not 
sure what size they are supposed to be for, haven't looked for that yet.

So far I am enjoying reading through the book. I would recommend it. And 
they recently got a paperback version for $20.00, which is what I have.

Kimiko



Kimiko Small
Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

Costume Mistress for Isle of Mann Guild
Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
http://www.costumegallery.com 

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Subject: [h-cost] Pastiche: was Green Duck Designs...
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Pastiche can be reached at <pastiche@teleport.com>.

If the e-mail, doesn't work, drop me a note and I'll send you their phone
number.

That's where I go to get all that delicious flat silk.

Arlys

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pastiche: was Green Duck Designs...
From: Lynn Downward <LDownward@chori.org>
To: h costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Thanks for the info.
LynnD

On 1/6/04 3:07 PM, "Cynthia J Ley" <cley@juno.com> wrote:

> Pastiche can be reached at <pastiche@teleport.com>.
> 
> If the e-mail, doesn't work, drop me a note and I'll send you their phone
> number.
> 
> That's where I go to get all that delicious flat silk.
> 
> Arlys
> 
> ________________________________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jan  6 19:23:52 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Shawl
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 16:19:41 -0800
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From: "Sunny Buchler" <sbuchler@silicongenetics.com>
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There are multiple pictures from the 50-70s that show women wearing really large shawls -- triangularly folded (I think) reaching from neck, nearly to the floor, and width-wise covering a fair amount of the hoop. I'm thinking especially of a painting titled something like "you want to go out too, Fifi?" -- a small dog is following the woman out the door. I think it's in _Fashion in Art : The Second Empire and Impressionism_ by Marie Simon. This isn't the only picture that shows it -- but it's the only one that I can guess what book it's in when I'm away from my library.
	-sunny

> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 14:27:45 EST
> From: AnnBWass@aol.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Shawl
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Message-ID: <1d0.173b9e1e.2d2c6631@aol.com>
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> 
> A colleague brought in an item called a shawl, that we think 
> dates from the 
> late 19th century.  But it is HUGE--118" x 58".  It is a 
> lightweight twill 
> weave wool plaid in green, black, violet, red, and white, and 
> has a 3"  fringe.  
> It is most likely from Pennsylvania.  Does anyone know 
> anything about these and 
> how they would have been worn?
> Ann Wass
> 

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jan  6 21:51:51 2004
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From: "Lisa Sinervo" <Lisa-list@thrednedlestrete.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <200401062107.i06L7EOT031250@jefferson.patriot.net>
Subject: Re: corset boning - Re: [h-cost] Museum Visit
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 18:59:09 -0800
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aaahhhh.....FEATHERBONING!!!!   Lightbulb goes *ON* brighter now........you
know, sometimes I do regret living in that coal mining town with no TV for
too many years!

I'll keep my eyes out for more on this now!

Lisa Sinervo
www.thrednedlestrete.com



----- Original Message -----
From: <aquazoo@patriot.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2004 1:02 PM
Subject: Re: corset boning - Re: [h-cost] Museum Visit


>
>      Was it this list, or a different one - Carol Huff mentioned that she
> recently got a featherboning attachment for a sewing machine.  I know of
> featherboning as being that nasty plastic stuff you can still get that
bends
> and buckles very easily.  Carol explained that the original featherboning
was
> actually made out of feathers, and she was interested in seeing some.
>
>
> Cyn Bucheger <cbucheger@paclp.com> said:
> > I believe they were goose quills, feathers removed and wrapped with
thread,
> > though I don't recall if it was a simple wrap around or something more
like
> > a buttonhole stitch that covered the quill almost completely.  I recall
> > rather regularly spaced wraps which is why I'm leaning toward stitches.
> > Cyn
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jan  6 22:35:41 2004
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] folkwear book
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 22:35:39 -0500
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On Tuesday 06 January 2004 02:58 pm, Dawn wrote:
> Gail & Scott Finke wrote:
> > I had never heard of the Folkwear book until now. I checked the web site
> > and they only have a picture of the cover. Is it good? Would those of you
> > who have it recommend it? If you've seen it and haven't bought it, why
> > not? Thanks --
>
> I looked at several online reviews that had pictures and comments by
> other costumers/ sewers. I passed on it this year, it didn't seem like
> it offered "enough" for my current interests. It looked like it was a
> big picture book of embellishment, which isn't a focus of mine at the
> moment. For the $30 cover price I could think of several other titles
> I'd rather have.
>
> However, I'm finding it now in the $11-14 range and I might just pick it
> up. A friend of mine expressed interest in the Tibetan Panel Coat, and
> that's one of the included patterns. I could get the book, with that, a
> couple other patterns they include, and all the pretty pictures for the
> price of the retail pattern.

Here comes my two cents.

At $11-$14, it's more than worth it. I bought it at the new softcover price of 
$19, and it's still worth that, though I wouldn't have paid much more for it.

Whether you would disagree with me would depend on what you wanted the book 
for.

If you like eye candy, there's plenty of it there--plenty of gorgeous full 
color photos of the projects described.

If you like the idea of making clothing with folk motifs, and trying out 
traditional (if unusual) decorative techinques, buy the book.  It teaches 
you, among other things, some back Seminole patchwork techniques.  

You should also buy the book if you're interested in the 6 Folkwear patterns 
they give in the book (I believe the six are the Japanese Kimono, Tibetan 
panel coat, Polish vest, Syrian dress, Seminole skirt, and....nope, I can't 
remember the sixth one).

The instructions and pattern information the book gives look as though they 
are good enough to allow me to reproduce the garments described--and I'm not 
good with making garments from instructions as opposed to patterns.  The book 
is cheaper by far than buying the Folkwear patterns for each of the items in 
question.

If you are primarily interested in the history of folk costume, the book is, 
IMHO, probably not worth your time.  Most of the sources in the bibliography 
are not historical in nature, and the historical background given in the book 
is pretty thin.  (I don't know enough about folk costume to vouch for or 
against it's accuracy, but I have my doubts).  There are a few interesting 
black-and-white photos of genuine folk costume from the 19th c., which up the 
historical information content a tad.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Anything's within walking distance if you have the time." -Steven Wright
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Christmas and circuit breakers
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> Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2004 16:31:14 -0600
> From: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>
> Subject: [h-cost] Re: Christmas and circuit breakers
> 
> Surge protectors have ratings which vary by model and manufacturer;
> say 
> 1100 Joules as an example. That means it can protect up to 1100
> Joules of 
> spike, cumulative. So, if you have a spike of 200 Joules, the
> protector 
> will absorb it, but its now only rated for 900 Joules. Once the
> protector 
> has absorbed its total of 1100 Joules its a glorified extension
> cord. I 
> would recommend changing it yearly at a minimum and always after
> some major 
> event such as a black out.
> 
> Pierre
> 

Ahhhh...  Thanks for the edification.  Being a mere programmer, the
IT guys gave me the low-tech version.  :-)

=====
"Right now I'm having amnesia and deja vu at the same time.  I think I've forgotten this before."     ~ Steven Wright
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: last word on electrical stuff
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And if you really want to protect something, get a UPS (uninterruptible 
power supply).  They come in several power ratings and usually include 
surge protection as well.  They give you power after an outage for a 
certain length of time so you can shut down your systems normally.  Price 
varies by how much you can power and for how long.  If you are in an area 
where blackouts/brownouts are common, it's well worth it.

Sandy

>Surge protectors have ratings which vary by model and manufacturer; say
>1100 Joules as an example. That means it can protect up to 1100 Joules of
>spike, cumulative. So, if you have a spike of 200 Joules, the protector
>will absorb it, but its now only rated for 900 Joules. Once the protector
>has absorbed its total of 1100 Joules its a glorified extension cord. I
>would recommend changing it yearly at a minimum and always after some major
>event such as a black out.
>
>Pierre

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] folkwear book
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 11:27:36 -0500
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I had the Tilke long before I acquired the Parker Folkwear book and early on
would have appreciated  having the pattern diagrams provided.  But because I
had only the costume illustrations, was forced to put my brain to work in
order to figure out the right shapes to reproduce the garments. Some trial
and error, but on the whole, the exercise was educational. I had already
been trying to reproduce western historical pictures and illustrations. As
the Historical patterns began to immerge during the last twenty years, I was
greatly heartened to discover that I had pretty much solved the design
problems in the very way that the investigative process had determined they
had been originated.
So a good book to use as a study tool.  The Parker also aadds greatly to the
scene with her bringing together the vast area of ethnic ornamentation.  I
have a number of individual books of ethnic embellishment and she has
managed to gather number of styles and craft under one cover. (One could say
that it could be a library shelf saver?) But then of course, one would miss
out on all the historical notes and nuances that are found when only one
culture is being studied.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lynn Downward" <LDownward@chori.org>
To: "h costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2004 4:46 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] folkwear book


> This book is really lovely; I spent an hour at a party early last year
with
> someone else pouring over the pictures but not reading the text. It seemed
> to me that there may have been flat patterns to work with, but it mostly
> showed a variety of different ways to decorate the clothing - piecework,
> embroidery, beading, etc., both from traditional and contemporary
> decorating. I can't even tell you if you can make the clothing from the
book
> or not. I've never seen Tilke's book - not my interest, so I cannot
compare
> the two. The book was an explosion of colors and textiles and that's what
I
> was looking at at the time. I can't tell you if it was a how-to book or a
> look-what-can-be-and-has-been-done book.
> LynnD
>
> On 1/6/04 1:02 PM, "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com> wrote:
>
> >
> >> I had never heard of the Folkwear book until now. I checked the web
site and
> >> they only have a picture of the cover. Is it good? Would those of you
who
> >> have it recommend it? If you've seen it and haven't bought it, why not?
> >
> > I haven't seen it, but have heard of it.  My guess is that Tilke's book
> > contains everything in it plus ;much more.  I do have Tilke's book, and
use
> > it a lot.
> >
> >
> >       CarolynKayta Barrows
> > dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
> >         www.FunStuft.com
> >
> >             //// \\\
> >            ////-@@\\\
> >           ((((   7 )))
> >            (((  <> ))))
> >               )   ((((((
> >          /----\   /---\))
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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>

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Hi
Yup, that was me. Just got the *instruction book* in the mail!

Wahoo! Go Me!!!

Will be scanning and duplicating as it is kinda fragile. Interesting 
as you sew the stuff in under tension, so it curves.....

Now to get the attachment to arrive inna mail....

So let me know if ya want copies...
Ta
Carol
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At 9:24 AM -0700 1/7/04, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>aaahhhh.....FEATHERBONING!!!!   Lightbulb goes *ON* brighter now........you
>know, sometimes I do regret living in that coal mining town with no TV for
>too many years!
>
>I'll keep my eyes out for more on this now!

Hi
Just be aware that it is an late invention 1880's....
So great for later stuff, not so great for 18th cent ;-(
I'll post more info when I get it scanned.
Ta
Carol
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Kathleen,
Could you be so kind as to list some of those titles you find useful
for the study of ethnic embellishment?

Thanks,
Kathy Hoover
(The other Kathleen - the one just down the road from you)

>>> rmitchell@washjeff.edu 01/07/04 11:27AM >>>
(snip)
So a good book to use as a study tool.  The Parker also adds greatly to
the
scene with her bringing together the vast area of ethnic ornamentation.
 I
have a number of individual books of ethnic embellishment and she has
managed to gather number of styles and craft under one cover. (One
could say
that it could be a library shelf saver?) But then of course, one would
miss
out on all the historical notes and nuances that are found when only
one
culture is being studied.
Kathleen


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Catherine Kinsey wrote:
Ah ha! I found my other reference. It's also illustrated in issue #116 
of Compleat Anachronist -- an issue devoted to blackwork and Elizabethan 
embroidery. $4.50 from the SCA stock clerk. www.sca.org



Dawn


> Hi, All. The means of creating the plaited braid stitch is illustrated 
> in the magazine "Fine Lines", a publication of the Historic Needlwork 
> Guild, Inc.  PO Box 8928 New Castle PA 16107 Dont remember the issue 
> (the last one, I think)  Contact is hngoffice@aol.com and website at 
> www.historicneedlework.com  Good Luck, Mike T.
> ****************************************
> 
> Actually, it was in the last two issues.  A very nicely illustrated
> how-to by Leon Conrad.  He has studied this stitch very carefully and
> came up with this new way of tackling it and explains some of this on
> his website:  http://www.leonconraddesigns.freeserve.co.uk/pbs.htm 
> 
> "Fine Lines" is also availabe from Wyndham Needleworks:
> http://www.wyndhamneedleworks.com/  
> 
> Catherine
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 
> 


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jan  7 14:41:35 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] folkwear book
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 14:43:24 -0500
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Here are a few titles that are at hand.  I have found a lot of these in Fred
Struthers "Books on Cloth.  Many are from the tight reading of the Hamilton
news sheet of remainders.

Espana-Jose Ortiz Echagne
Veiled Images-GE Eastwood
For Modesty's Sake-Vogelsang-Eastwood
Peasant Art in Austria and Hungary-Joseph Lane Co, NY
Slovensko-(Vydala Matica Slovenska
World Textiles-Gillow and Sentance
Fiberart book of Wearable Art
Goddess Embroideries of Eastern Europs
Art to Wear-Juli Schalfer Dale
Traditional Cross stitch-Cargill
Art of Kantha-Niaz Zamam
Costume and Identity in Ecquador
Ethnic dress-Kennett
Chales de Russie
Palestinian Embroidery-Weir and Shahid--

Kathleen
- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kathy Hoover" <khoover@wvu.edu>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2004 12:07 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] folkwear book


> Kathleen,
> Could you be so kind as to list some of those titles you find useful
> for the study of ethnic embellishment?
>
> Thanks,
> Kathy Hoover
> (The other Kathleen - the one just down the road from you)
>
> >>> rmitchell@washjeff.edu 01/07/04 11:27AM >>>
> (snip)
> So a good book to use as a study tool.  The Parker also adds greatly to
> the
> scene with her bringing together the vast area of ethnic ornamentation.
>  I
> have a number of individual books of ethnic embellishment and she has
> managed to gather number of styles and craft under one cover. (One
> could say
> that it could be a library shelf saver?) But then of course, one would
> miss
> out on all the historical notes and nuances that are found when only
> one
> culture is being studied.
> Kathleen
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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>

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Thanks to everyone who has posted a review of the Folkwear book. I'm
definitely intrigued, and will try to see it for myself. I have the Tilke
book, so the idea of many lush photos and decorative techniques appeals to
me! 

Gail Finke

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Subject: [h-cost] Costume Academy in Berkeley, Calif.
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The Greater Bay Area Costumers Guild has just announced Costume Academy, a
one day, multi-workshop event on Sunday, March 14th in Berkeley, Calif..
Basically, there are three time slots with three classes in each -- you take
one class per time slot, so a total of three classes in one day.

The class topics include pattern drafting and draping, trimming (buttons,
embroidery and ribbon flowers), hair pieces and ear prosthetics, Victorian
practical and decorative pleating, and an overview on 18th c. quilted
petticoats.

Should be excesses of fun -- cost is $45 members (inc. ICG members)/$50
non-members.  Lots more info, include sign-up info, is available at:

http://www.gbacg.org/ca/ca_about.htm

I hope to see some of you there!

- Kendra
http://demode.tweedlebop.com


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From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume Academy in Berkeley, Calif.
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Oh? I wanna go, I wanna go!!

It is on my first local faire weekend, however, so I will have to pass.. 
this time. Darnit!

Kimiko
{grumble, grumble... groan}

At 11:05 PM 1/7/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>The Greater Bay Area Costumers Guild has just announced Costume Academy, a
>one day, multi-workshop event on Sunday, March 14th in Berkeley, Calif..
>Basically, there are three time slots with three classes in each -- you take
>one class per time slot, so a total of three classes in one day.
>
>The class topics include pattern drafting and draping, trimming (buttons,
>embroidery and ribbon flowers), hair pieces and ear prosthetics, Victorian
>practical and decorative pleating, and an overview on 18th c. quilted
>petticoats.
>
>Should be excesses of fun -- cost is $45 members (inc. ICG members)/$50
>non-members.  Lots more info, include sign-up info, is available at:
>
>http://www.gbacg.org/ca/ca_about.htm
>
>I hope to see some of you there!
>
>- Kendra
>http://demode.tweedlebop.com


Kimiko Small
Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

Costume Mistress for Isle of Mann Guild
Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
http://www.costumegallery.com 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:featherboning
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>So let me know if ya want copies...

Copies - sure.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
             ////-@@\\\
            ((((   7 )))
             (((  <> ))))
                )   ((((((
           /----\   /---\))

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Hi,

Some time ago I saw butterick pattern 4051 and I didn't understand why 
they made a pattern of a dress that looks so horrible in my eyes.
Yesterday I saw Gone With the wind for the fhirst time and saw that 
dress, the dress was made out of old curtains.
Well, it certanly looks like it :-) . But is the dress completely 
fantasy or could it be historical..

Greetings,
        Deredere


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jan  8 06:03:53 2004
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Greetings all,
I learned plaited braid stitch from Jane Lemon's book Metal Thread 
Embroidery. If anyone has access to both this book and the article by Leon 
Conrad will they please have a look at the instructions and tell us whether 
both methods are the same. Judging by the picture of the finished work on 
Leon Conrad's site, the two produce identical results.

Thanks
Annette


-- 
Annette Wilson
Australian Botanical Liaison Officer
Royal Botanic Gardens Kew
Richmond Surrey TW9 3AB UK
Voice 44 (0)20 8332 5270
Fax 44 (0)20 8332 5278
Email ablo@rbgkew.org.uk

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I don't know if the pattern is historical, beyond its film debut, but it has
been available via another source for many, many years.  It used to show up
often in the back pages of sewing and needlework mags.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <A.Wilson@kew.org>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 6:02 AM
Subject: [h-cost] (no subject)


> Greetings all,
> I learned plaited braid stitch from Jane Lemon's book Metal Thread
> Embroidery. If anyone has access to both this book and the article by Leon
> Conrad will they please have a look at the instructions and tell us
whether
> both methods are the same. Judging by the picture of the finished work on
> Leon Conrad's site, the two produce identical results.
>
> Thanks
> Annette
>
>
> -- 
> Annette Wilson
> Australian Botanical Liaison Officer
> Royal Botanic Gardens Kew
> Richmond Surrey TW9 3AB UK
> Voice 44 (0)20 8332 5270
> Fax 44 (0)20 8332 5278
> Email ablo@rbgkew.org.uk
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume Academy in Berkeley, Calif.
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*sigh* Oh sure... AFTER I move from San Francisco to the east coast......

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kendra Van Cleave" <kendra@tweedlebop.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 2:05 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Costume Academy in Berkeley, Calif.


> The Greater Bay Area Costumers Guild has just announced Costume Academy, a
> one day, multi-workshop event on Sunday, March 14th in Berkeley, Calif..
> Basically, there are three time slots with three classes in each -- you
take
> one class per time slot, so a total of three classes in one day.
>
> The class topics include pattern drafting and draping, trimming (buttons,
> embroidery and ribbon flowers), hair pieces and ear prosthetics, Victorian
> practical and decorative pleating, and an overview on 18th c. quilted
> petticoats.
>
> Should be excesses of fun -- cost is $45 members (inc. ICG members)/$50
> non-members.  Lots more info, include sign-up info, is available at:
>
> http://www.gbacg.org/ca/ca_about.htm
>
> I hope to see some of you there!
>
> - Kendra
> http://demode.tweedlebop.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>

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Subject: Gone with the wind dresses  Re: [h-cost] Butterick 4051
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 06:38:37 -0800
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Deredere wrote


> Some time ago I saw butterick pattern 4051 and I didn't understand why
> they made a pattern of a dress that looks so horrible in my eyes.
> Yesterday I saw Gone With the wind for the fhirst time and saw that
> dress, the dress was made out of old curtains.

Another dress that wasn't quite right was Scarlet's first wedding dress.  I
didn't think that was done well either until I read that it was a rush
wedding so Scarlet used her mother's old dress and it didn't fit her quite
right.  Things made sense then.

Scarlet, in the book, had a child by each of her three husbands,  when she
met Rhett she was a single mother with two kids and after the third, well no
wonder she was worried about her waist!  Not that more wasn't involve with
that decision, but some odd things became clear to me after reading the book
as well as seeing the movie.

Lisa


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From: KATHRYN WOLTERS <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume Academy in Berkeley, Calif.
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Dang!!!  that looks like fun--but I'm already scheduled to teach gold bullion work at the local SCA's collegium that weekend--sniffle !
Albra

Kendra Van Cleave <kendra@tweedlebop.com> wrote:
The Greater Bay Area Costumers Guild has just announced Costume Academy, a
one day, multi-workshop event on Sunday, March 14th in Berkeley, Calif..
Basically, there are three time slots with three classes in each -- you take
one class per time slot, so a total of three classes in one day.

The class topics include pattern drafting and draping, trimming (buttons,
embroidery and ribbon flowers), hair pieces and ear prosthetics, Victorian
practical and decorative pleating, and an overview on 18th c. quilted
petticoats.

Should be excesses of fun -- cost is $45 members (inc. ICG members)/$50
non-members. Lots more info, include sign-up info, is available at:

http://www.gbacg.org/ca/ca_about.htm

I hope to see some of you there!

- Kendra
http://demode.tweedlebop.com


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Subject: [h-cost] Dress in 2004 Wedding Dresses Calendar by Sally Queen
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 I have the 2004 Wedding Dresses Calendar by Sally Queen & Associates. The
dress for the month of Jan is a 1912 cream gown worn by Mabel Haskell and
owned by the Maine Historical Society. I did check their website for more
info and found none. I'd love to adapt this dress to wear to my niece's
wedding(in a different color) Does anyone know of a commercial pattern(or
patterns) that would allow me to produce something close? I love the
assemetric draping of the overskirt(although I'd eliminate the train) so I'd
like to find a pattern to do that overskirt, at least. I found some dupinoi
silk at Joann's, (called Tropical--a nice pale pink)at $9.99 a yard and used
my 40% off coupon. There was enough left on the bolt for either the
overdress or underdress and I will have to settle for a different fabric
unless JoAnn's gets in another bolt.

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Subject: [h-cost] Art of Fashion Draping & Costume Technicians Handbook ???
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Hello all - Happy New Year !!

I have 2 quick questions.  Is anyone familiar with the book The Art of
Fashion Draping by Connie Amaden-Crawford?  I tried ordering it from my
library via inter-library loan & the only copy is listed as "missing".  It
is available from Amazon but I'm loathe to spend so much money on a book I
know so little about.  Is it a book that MUST be on my costuming shelf or is
it a general how-to-drape book?

I'm also curious about the differences between the Costume Technician's
Handbook & the Costume Designer's Handbook by Rosemary Ingham & Elizabeth
Covey? They must focus on different aspects of costuming but do they overlap
a lot too?

Any thoughts you may have would be most appreciated!

Thanks

Elizabeth

www.alabasterstyle.com

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jan  8 11:41:21 2004
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Butterick 4051
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Deredere Galbraith wrote:

> Hi,
> 
> Well, it certanly looks like it :-) . But is the dress completely 
> fantasy or could it be historical..

It's my opinion that the movie dress is fantasy. It looks ok, until you 
compare it to photos from the time period. I'm looking at pictures from 
just after the end of the war. For starters, the neckline is scandalous. 
Ok, in the book she _was_ trying to get Rhett's attention, and even 
wearing makeup, I believe, but still. Necklines could be that low, but 
they were filled with a ruffle of white material to imitate another 
layer of clothing. Flesh almost never actually showed, and certainly 
never in the street if she was concerned at all about her reputation.

The shoulders should have a dropped sleeve line as was popular in the 
preceeding years. The movie dress has modern sleeves that ride high on 
the shoulder. The Butterick pattern does too.

The little shoulder cape on the left side is fantasy. The dress is also 
made with an overskirt that is pulled up or slit in front to show a 
brighter colored underskirt. I don't see that this style was worn in 
those years. There was either a single skirt with a ruffle, or a bodice 
with a long basque. Finally, the tassels are too over the top. Fringe 
was worn, and ruffles, but not swagged like those curtain ties until a 
good 20 years later in the century.

Compare the Butterick pattern to Simplicity 9761, 7212 and 5442, which 
are IMO more correct for the time.



Dawn



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Art of Fashion Draping & Costume Technicians Handbook ???
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In a message dated 1/8/2004 11:29:20 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
elizabeth@alabasterstyle.com writes:
The Art of
Fashion Draping by Connie Amaden-Crawford?
This is one of the most comprehensive books around on the subject if you do a 
lot of draping.  It covers just about every situation you can think of.

Ann Wass
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Christmas and circuit breakers (Mary)
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>  Re: Christmas and circuit breakers (Mary)
>

> Thank you all so much for all the info.

> I love my Bernina.  I miss my Bernina so much.  I really don't want a new anything, plus which my dear Spousal Unit nearly stroked out when he saw the prices new machine are these days ( though the computerized embroidery functionality is very interesting...)

The "get new surge protection every so often" was great advice, we seem to get more than our share of electricy events, and the 30-40 year old aluminium wiring in t he house does't help I'm sure.

Mia in Charlotte,
    18th Cent. - His Magesty's 64th of Foot
    19th Cent - CW, Span/AM, Mex/Am,
    20th Cent - Civilian Folks on the USS North Carolina

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Subject: [h-cost] historical costumes for singers
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Hi, I'm new to the list, which was recommended to me by an SCA costumer.
Here's my question(s):

I have formed a vocal trio with two other women, and we are singing acapella
medieval/renaissance music;  so far mostly liturgical, with a few folk
songs;  but I hope to branch out into some madrigals soon.  Anyway, I'm
looking for some costume ideas for us; in particular, what style of costume
would be reasonably compatible with the era of the music we're singing
(mostly 15th-17th C, Italian/English/Latin and some plainsong) and that
would also be compatible with the requirements of singing(!).  So no
probably corsets or boning, unless it can be 'faked' so we can still get a
really good lungful of air... personally I need about three inches of ease
at the bottom of my rib cage for a full breath.

I'm thinking that keeping to the middle class styles would be a good start,
not too extreme.  Houpelands are beautiful but probably a bit heavy, also
possibly a bit early compared to the music?  A simple underdress with cotte
or surcotte would work well, but again might be historically early...

I'd also like to avoid anything too excessive (i.e., no Queen Lizzy!),
possibly do something Italianate or Flemish.  I had a close look at some
renaissance Italian gowns (bodice, sleeves, skirt) that were lovely but
seemed to require boning. Which is OK if we can fake it (see above).

What comments/suggestions do you all have?  Thanks for your help!
Suzanne


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From: "Teena Paradise" <bkessinger@ureach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] historical costumes for singers
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 14:52:22 -0500
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15th C Italian gowns require no corsetry or boning and I find them very
comfortable. Also, if you are concerned about having plenty of breathing
room, you might make the bodice a little less snug and wear a giornea over
it. You would look quite lovely and graceful and be able to breathe very
well!
Here is an example of the look I am speaking of.....
http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/earlyflor/3flor12.html
You could use less ornate fabrics to give it a more middle class feel. I
wear this style and it is VERY comfortable.

Teena

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzanne Manley" <suzanne-manley@telus.net>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 2:59 PM
Subject: [h-cost] historical costumes for singers


> Hi, I'm new to the list, which was recommended to me by an SCA costumer.
> Here's my question(s):
>
> I have formed a vocal trio with two other women, and we are singing
acapella
> medieval/renaissance music;  so far mostly liturgical, with a few folk
> songs;  but I hope to branch out into some madrigals soon.  Anyway, I'm
> looking for some costume ideas for us; in particular, what style of
costume
> would be reasonably compatible with the era of the music we're singing
> (mostly 15th-17th C, Italian/English/Latin and some plainsong) and that
> would also be compatible with the requirements of singing(!).  So no
> probably corsets or boning, unless it can be 'faked' so we can still get a
> really good lungful of air... personally I need about three inches of ease
> at the bottom of my rib cage for a full breath.
>
> I'm thinking that keeping to the middle class styles would be a good
start,
> not too extreme.  Houpelands are beautiful but probably a bit heavy, also
> possibly a bit early compared to the music?  A simple underdress with
cotte
> or surcotte would work well, but again might be historically early...
>
> I'd also like to avoid anything too excessive (i.e., no Queen Lizzy!),
> possibly do something Italianate or Flemish.  I had a close look at some
> renaissance Italian gowns (bodice, sleeves, skirt) that were lovely but
> seemed to require boning. Which is OK if we can fake it (see above).
>
> What comments/suggestions do you all have?  Thanks for your help!
> Suzanne
>
>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: M Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] historical costumes for singers
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Hey Suzanne -

Welcome to the list.   I'm interested to hear more about your group... good 
on you for getting it going.
I perform and study opera, as well as other forms of music,  so I've sung 
in corsets and stays etc.
And a couple of FUNKY "what were they thinking" costumes...

Just a note on historical corsets,  you might find it less of a problem 
than you would first imagine.
Most corsets and bodies of the day were more interested in producing a flat 
front and a smooth line
to the hips... and then padding took over to give you BIG hips.  So many of 
my corsets don't
interfere with my voice.
Just something to consider.

But if corsets are right out...
         I say go with 15th century Florentine, Sienese or Venetian.
         In most cases no corsetry,  the dress gives you lift or shape as 
you need.
         You can wear plain day dresses,  and fancy them up as your groups 
needs
         mature.

Good luck.
Bridgette

A couple of lartists and examples.... to check out what I mean... look at 
other images by the same artist too.
Artist Bronzino:   http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/bronzino/p-bronzino7.htm
Pontonormo:  http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/pontormo/p-pontormo9.htm
Titian:  http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/titian/p-titian18.htm
Raphael:  http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/raphael/p-raphae25.htm
Lotto:  http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/lotto/p-lotto3.htm

That's a good start....  ; >


>Hi, I'm new to the list, which was recommended to me by an SCA costumer.
>Here's my question(s):
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] historical costumes for singers
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In a message dated 1/8/2004 11:59:53 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
ms154@cornell.edu writes:
Welcome to the list.   I'm interested to hear more about your group... good 
on you for getting it going.
I perform and study opera, as well as other forms of music,  so I've sung 
in corsets and stays etc.
And a couple of FUNKY "what were they thinking" costumes...

Bridgette:

I'm glad you mentioned this.  My stepdaughter is a professional opera singer, 
and has sung in 16th century costumes for "Gloriana"; 18th century costumes 
for "Marriage of Figaro", and various other period dress, which require 
corsetry.  When the corsets are custome made and worn properly they do not interfere 
with your breath support.  In fact, Chrissy likes being corsetted better than 
not, because it lends support to "stancing" her ample form.

Just some food for thought.

Laura
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Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 15:02:49 -0800
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] historical costumes for singers
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Hiya Suzanne,

Welcome to the list!

I have done many years of faire, and have done my share of singing at 
faire. I will tell you that a corset is no hindrance to getting that good 
breathe in your diaphragm, so long as it is custom fitted to you, and not 
purposely made tighter than it should be. A good corset that I wear, while 
it covers the front to past my belly button, and sides almost to my hips, 
really only holds me in around the rib cage area and my breasts, and not 
tightly at that. It gives me the proper form, but I can easily move around, 
sing, project loudly when I need to, dance, spin wool, cook food, chase my 
son, bend over, whatever I needed to do. I will also admit that my corset 
is made with plastic cable ties and not steel, but I don't believe that 
steel would cause undue problems either, if made properly. I plan on my 
next corset to be made of steel. I know that I may not be able to tie my 
shoes anymore when I do, but don't believe that it will limit me much anyway.

So if you are interested in a garment that would need a corset, please 
don't rule it out with regards to singing or any other activity you may do. 
There are several ways to create a corset that can do whatever you need it 
to do for you.

Kimiko

Kimiko Small
Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

Costume Mistress for Isle of Mann Guild
Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
http://www.costumegallery.com 

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In a message dated 1/8/2004 11:40:25 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
dawn@reddawn.net writes:

> It's my opinion that the movie dress is fantasy.

Most definitely. Of course in the context of the film, this design more than 
any other needs to appeal to the current [for the film] zeitgeist. It is THE 
symbol of ingenuity in hard times. Gumption, y'know...

An accurate 1865 gown would never have worked as well.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] historical costumes for singers
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Ditto here. High waist, side or front laced. Extremely comfortable and
they breathe well. A friend made me one using velvet for the skirt and
the bodice was of a paisleyed corduroy for the outer fabric and lined
with a cotton flannel. I'm about average up top, and felt very well
supported. The one she made me was a sleevless gown, worn with a camicia
underneath. No problems breathing at all. One thing I really like about
it is that I didn't overheat. I've been singing in and directing SCA a
cappella choirs for the last almost 21 years.

Another possibility is a barrel corset, made for me by a costuming friend
who knew I was concerned about reconciling underpinnings to support a
heavy gown (Italian Ren, one of those dripping with yards and yards of
yards and yards) and still be able to breathe as deeply as I needed to
for performance. It works great.

The group I direct now has a more medieval focus, so I usually wear
sideless surcoats for that.


Good luck!

Arlys



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] historical costumes for singers
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Just to add my tuppence on the breath support in corsets thing- I
actually like projecting when wearing a corset better than trying it
'free'. Ask anybody in St. George at Bristol....or anybody at Bristol
really, and they will tell you that I can project really well and be
heard both when calling cheers for the Queen and when singing in the
Noble's Glade before Her Maj. And I do it in full court Elizabethans,
complete with properly fitted pair of bodies. The only thing I can
compare it to is lifting heavy weights while wearing a weight belt. The
stays actually give you something to brace yourself against and lets you
really control your breathing. Don't fear a well fitted corset, it could
be your friend!



Karen

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Kimiko Small wrote:

> Hiya Suzanne,
>
> Welcome to the list!
>
> I have done many years of faire, and have done my share of singing at 
> faire. I will tell you that a corset is no hindrance to getting that 
> good breathe in your diaphragm, so long as it is custom fitted to you, 
> and not purposely made tighter than it should be. A good corset that I 
> wear, while it covers the front to past my belly button, and sides 
> almost to my hips, really only holds me in around the rib cage area 
> and my breasts, and not tightly at that. 


My ribs need expansion room when I play brass or sing. I expand by 2 
inches at the bra-band when I take a 'big belly breath' as for playing a 
long passage. My gut expands 3 inches.
I have never been able to reconcile the two different schemes of lacing 
- tighter for just standing around vs. looser so I can take a really 
full breath.
I am going to do a fitting tonight of my remodeled 1580 Italians. I am 
planning to check the fit of the dress with the corset laced as for playing.

liz young

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jan  8 23:47:52 2004
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Elizabeth Young wrote:

> Kimiko Small wrote:
>
>> Hiya Suzanne,
>>
>> Welcome to the list!
>>
>> I have done many years of faire, and have done my share of singing at 
>> faire. I will tell you that a corset is no hindrance to getting that 
>> good breathe in your diaphragm, so long as it is custom fitted to 
>> you, and not purposely made tighter than it should be. A good corset 
>> that I wear, while it covers the front to past my belly button, and 
>> sides almost to my hips, really only holds me in around the rib cage 
>> area and my breasts, and not tightly at that. 
>
>
>
> My ribs need expansion room when I play brass or sing. I expand by 2 
> inches at the bra-band when I take a 'big belly breath' as for playing 
> a long passage. My gut expands 3 inches.
> I have never been able to reconcile the two different schemes of 
> lacing - tighter for just standing around vs. looser so I can take a 
> really full breath.
> I am going to do a fitting tonight of my remodeled 1580 Italians. I am 
> planning to check the fit of the dress with the corset laced as for 
> playing.
>
> liz young
>
OK, (replying to my own post)
We laced the corset not so tightly this time. The dress fits reasonably 
well over the looser lacing. I can breath *almost* as fully as normally.
Of course, now my bust is not supported: keeps slithering down inside 
the front.
Phoo.

liz young

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jan  8 23:49:01 2004
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Subject: [h-cost] TV show of interest?
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You folks may remember that last spring I posted here looking for a lead
on a costume historian in England who could talk knowledgeably about the
practicalities of women's 15th century clothing, to be interviewed for a
BBC TV show on medieval women. I had already given a phone interview and
sent background material to the show's researchers, but they wanted to
talk with an expert on-camera, and I am on the wrong side of the water. I
ultimately recommended Sarah Thursfield, who -- last I heard -- did agree
to be involved in the project. (I am negligent, as she contacted me
afterward, and I owe her a note.)

Anyway, I see that the show in question is being broadcast on the History
Channel on Saturday. It's part of the series "Terry Jones' Medieval
Lives." There are a bunch of different segments -- eight or 10, I think --
each focusing on a different medieval archetype. The one I was consulted
on, and recommended Sarah for, is "The Damsel." Two episodes of the series
are appearing on Saturday: "The King" at 7pm EST, and "The Damsel" at
7:30pm EST.  Go to this page for the listing, and you can click on the
show title for a very brief summary.

http://www.historychannel.com/global/listings/listings.jsp?fromDate=10&fromMonth=0&fromYear=104&NetwCode=THC

The summary says "half-hour version," suggesting it may have been cut down
from something longer. I have no idea whether Sarah does appear in the
show as planned (either in the long version or the short one). As I
understand it, "The Damsel" is the only installment in the series that
covers women, and the researcher I spoke to said they were going to try to
squeeze in as much information about medieval women in general into that
show. Given that it's only a half-hour segment, it's possible it won't
address clothing at all. But I will be watching (or at least taping).

I don't know if the series has already appeared in England, so if any of
our UK listmates has seen it, I'd love to hear your opinions.

--Robin


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I have a friend with MS, who has recently learned she will soon need a 
powered wheelchair or scooter to get around.

She enjoys attending Renaissance Faires, and is trying to figure out 
what sorts of things she can wear there will look good while seated.  I 
suggested making a plain "long skirt" out of cheap fabric and wearing it 
around while using the chair, to get an idea for what would need to 
change there.

Does anyone have any ideas about what might be appropriate or flattering 
styles?  She is a BIG girl (thanks to treatment side effects and 
inability to walk well) Size 28-32 or so, just over 6' tall, and bosomy.

Any suggestions would be appreciated - she is really discouraged about 
this necessity, and I would like to help her feel "pretty" .  (We are 
talking about making up a horse's head and tail for her "steed"...)

Wendy Z
(just getting over the flu in )
Chicago, IL

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] TV show of interest?
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 00:13:36 -0500
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We have watched two episodes already... the knight and the monk. They were
pretty interesting. We have it programmed into our tivo so we are going to
catch all of the episodes.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "Historic Costume List" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2004 1:16 AM
Subject: [h-cost] TV show of interest?


>
> You folks may remember that last spring I posted here looking for a lead
> on a costume historian in England who could talk knowledgeably about the
> practicalities of women's 15th century clothing, to be interviewed for a
> BBC TV show on medieval women. I had already given a phone interview and
> sent background material to the show's researchers, but they wanted to
> talk with an expert on-camera, and I am on the wrong side of the water. I
> ultimately recommended Sarah Thursfield, who -- last I heard -- did agree
> to be involved in the project. (I am negligent, as she contacted me
> afterward, and I owe her a note.)
>
> Anyway, I see that the show in question is being broadcast on the History
> Channel on Saturday. It's part of the series "Terry Jones' Medieval
> Lives." There are a bunch of different segments -- eight or 10, I think --
> each focusing on a different medieval archetype. The one I was consulted
> on, and recommended Sarah for, is "The Damsel." Two episodes of the series
> are appearing on Saturday: "The King" at 7pm EST, and "The Damsel" at
> 7:30pm EST.  Go to this page for the listing, and you can click on the
> show title for a very brief summary.
>
>
http://www.historychannel.com/global/listings/listings.jsp?fromDate=10&fromMonth=0&fromYear=104&NetwCode=THC
>
> The summary says "half-hour version," suggesting it may have been cut down
> from something longer. I have no idea whether Sarah does appear in the
> show as planned (either in the long version or the short one). As I
> understand it, "The Damsel" is the only installment in the series that
> covers women, and the researcher I spoke to said they were going to try to
> squeeze in as much information about medieval women in general into that
> show. Given that it's only a half-hour segment, it's possible it won't
> address clothing at all. But I will be watching (or at least taping).
>
> I don't know if the series has already appeared in England, so if any of
> our UK listmates has seen it, I'd love to hear your opinions.
>
> --Robin
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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>

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Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 21:35:01 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] put your thinking caps on....
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>She enjoys attending Renaissance Faires, and is trying to figure out what 
>sorts of things she can wear there will look good while seated.  I 
>suggested making a plain "long skirt" out of cheap fabric and wearing it 
>around while using the chair, to get an idea for what would need to change 
>there.

Leave the back seam of the skirt open, unless she will do any walking while 
there.  This makes certain functions much easier.

>Does anyone have any ideas about what might be appropriate or flattering 
>styles?  She is a BIG girl (thanks to treatment side effects and inability 
>to walk well) Size 28-32 or so, just over 6' tall, and bosomy.

Simple lines and no fussy details.

>Any suggestions would be appreciated - she is really discouraged about 
>this necessity, and I would like to help her feel "pretty" .

Lots of her favorite colors, and lines of lace trim if she's the girly 
type.  Frame her face with a nice hat or headpiece.  Use good-looking 
jewelry, even if it's from a thrift store.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] put your thinking caps on....
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What she said....;o)
I'd add, making sure that the fabrics for her outfit(s) have some body 
too them (not too flimsy), but not so much that they're stiff.  A style 
that has some flow to it, and not a lot of fiddly bits.

Of course, I think that's pretty good advice for all of us "big girls," 
no matter our method of locomotion!

It also occurs to me that you might check period art (of whatever period 
is her preference), and look for examples of women sitting--middle-class 
ItalianRen, maybe? or one of Robin's GFD?
--sue

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

> 
>> She enjoys attending Renaissance Faires, and is trying to figure out 
>> what sorts of things she can wear there will look good while seated.  
>> I suggested making a plain "long skirt" out of cheap fabric and 
>> wearing it around while using the chair, to get an idea for what would 
>> need to change there.
> 
> 
> Leave the back seam of the skirt open, unless she will do any walking 
> while there.  This makes certain functions much easier.
> 
>> Does anyone have any ideas about what might be appropriate or 
>> flattering styles?  She is a BIG girl (thanks to treatment side 
>> effects and inability to walk well) Size 28-32 or so, just over 6' 
>> tall, and bosomy.
> 
> 
> Simple lines and no fussy details.
> 
>> Any suggestions would be appreciated - she is really discouraged about 
>> this necessity, and I would like to help her feel "pretty" .
> 
> 
> Lots of her favorite colors, and lines of lace trim if she's the girly 
> type.  Frame her face with a nice hat or headpiece.  Use good-looking 
> jewelry, even if it's from a thrift store.
> 
> 
>        CarolynKayta Barrows
> dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
>          www.FunStuft.com
> 
>              //// \\\
>             ////-@@\\\
>            ((((   7 )))
>             (((  <> ))))
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> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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Subject: [h-cost] Costumes for musicians
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Your mileage may vary.

My wife's a professional flute player and does the early music thing too.  
While she could play with a corset, she wouldn't get the full lung capacity- 
  while she'd hardly be doing her Robert Dick multiphonic routine, she still 
likes to have her full ability.  So I put a second row of hooks and eyes on 
her (lightly) boned bodice, she sets it to that for playing and eating large 
amounts of chocolate.

We both play in a medieval group as well-  no problems with 13th century 
outfits.

BTW, I play harp, and guys don't wear corsets anyway.  nyah nyah nyah 
nyah....

_________________________________________________________________
Working moms: Find helpful tips here on managing kids, home, work —  and 
yourself.   http://special.msn.com/msnbc/workingmom.armx

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David Parish-Whittaker wrote:

>
> BTW, I play harp, and guys don't wear corsets anyway.  nyah nyah nyah 
> nyah....
>
phhhhhpth...

liz young

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In a message dated 1/9/2004 1:27:51 AM Eastern Standard Time, davidparishwhittaker@hotmail.com writes:

> BTW, I play harp, and guys don't wear corsets anyway.  nyah 
> nyah nyah
> nyah....

Obviously you don't play nobility.

Laura
"Never interrupt your enemy while he is making a mistake"  Napoleon Bonaparte
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From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] historical costumes for singers
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At 08:46 PM 1/8/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>Of course, now my bust is not supported: keeps slithering down inside the 
>front.
>Phoo.
>
>liz young


Try tacking in a rolled sausage where your breasts would sit on top of 
them. It was an old trick to give breast more "high cleavage" than normal, 
especially for smaller breasted ladies. One friend would use old gym socks 
(cleaned), another used bra paddings or shoulder pads, and I seem to recall 
The Brown Book just suggesting a small roll tacked into place being helpful.

Just a thought. Do what is best for your needs, corset or otherwise.

Kimiko



Kimiko Small
Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

Costume Mistress for Isle of Mann Guild
Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
http://www.costumegallery.com 

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Subject: [h-cost] 18th century corset on eBay
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Hi,

This is a very nice 18th century corset. There is no way I could affort 
it but I found it very interesting to look at the pictures.
Interesting to see those bun rolls attached to the corset.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2881190466&category=48864

Greetings,
        Deredere


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>>> lizyoung@fenris.net 1/9/04 4:46:58 AM >>>
Elizabeth Young wrote:

>OK, (replying to my own post)
>We laced the corset not so tightly this time. The dress fits
reasonably 
>well over the looser lacing. I can breath *almost* as fully as
normally.
>Of course, now my bust is not supported: keeps slithering down inside

>the front.
>Phoo.

I have the same problem, as a woodwind player (and occasional singer)
with a 1630s group, with an AA bust and no spare flesh on my torso. I
got a corset in the hope of achieving a bit of cleavage for once, but if
I lace tightly enough for that I can't breathe deeply enough to play my
shawm properly. I'll have to experimernt further with padding down the
front...


______________________________________________________________________

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby
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> She enjoys attending Renaissance Faires, and is trying to figure out 
> what sorts of things she can wear there will look good while seated.  I 
> suggested making a plain "long skirt" out of cheap fabric and wearing it 
> around while using the chair, to get an idea for what would need to 
> change there.
> 
> Does anyone have any ideas about what might be appropriate or flattering 
> styles?  She is a BIG girl (thanks to treatment side effects and 
> inability to walk well) Size 28-32 or so, just over 6' tall, and bosomy.

I use a manual wheelchair, but some of this will apply anyway:
Make sure the skirt does not bunch up under her when she sits.  A 
big wrinkle under your butt can become a pressure sore if you can't
get up and walk around.  The other things to think about will be keeping
the skirt out of the wheels.  Some of the details will depend on what type
of powerchair or scooter she gets.  Her seating system will have a large
impact on what she'll be able to wear, as well.  

Just as a generic idea, I'd want a skirt that was relatively slim, and 
possibly straps around the back at knee and calf level to keep the skirt
under control.  It'd still be full enough to walk/hobble if she got up,
but wouldn't get caught in the wheels.  

I wore my "narrow" skirted dress and small petticoat for Dickens Fair
and still had problems with the skirt getting caught in my wheel locks.
If I'd had more time to mess with things, I'd have put a gathering strap
at calf level where it'd be hidden by the bottom ruffle of the skrit.
That would have kept the skirt down around my legs instead of billowing
up and into my wheels and generally making it hard to transfer in and 
out of the chair.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Kayta says:
>Leave the back seam of the skirt open, unless she will do any walking while 
>there.  This makes certain functions much easier.

If she's considering a scooter at all, she can probably hobble
a little bit.  In general, mobility scooters are not meant for
someone who can't at least stand.  Plus, having just done the
big skirt/wheelchair thing, having the back open only works if
you can somehow secure the skirt to keep it from getting in 
the way of the drive wheels and/or tangling up in other equipment.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] TV show of interest?
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> We have watched two episodes already... the knight and the monk. They were
> pretty interesting. We have it programmed into our tivo so we are going to

Sounds like it. That's exactly where I'm headed now too. :)


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costumes for musicians
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David wrote:
>
> BTW, I play harp, and guys don't wear corsets anyway.  nyah nyah nyah
> nyah....

Oh I wouldn't be so sure about that!!!  A few of here could whip one up for
you and add some bran filled pads to fill out your calves too!

Lisa Sinervo
www.thrednedlestrete.com



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Lee Thompson-Herbert wrote:
>
> I use a manual wheelchair, but some of this will apply anyway:
> Make sure the skirt does not bunch up under her when she sits.  A
> big wrinkle under your butt can become a pressure sore if you can't
> get up and walk around.

Or make a skirt with no gathering in the back but only in the front.  This
way it will still look like a full skirt while sitting,  Okay this doesn't
address the getting caught in the wheels issue, but still an idea.

Lisa Sinervo
www.thrednedlestrete.com

He thats borne to be hanged need feare no drowining.
16th century proverb


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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century corset on eBay
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You are E-E-E-E-E-VIL!!!

(thanks. :)

Drea

On Fri, 9 Jan 2004, Deredere Galbraith wrote:

> Hi,
>
> This is a very nice 18th century corset. There is no way I could affort
> it but I found it very interesting to look at the pictures.
> Interesting to see those bun rolls attached to the corset.
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2881190466&category=48864
>
> Greetings,
>         Deredere
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Jan  9 10:09:47 2004
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Subject: [h-cost] wired tape/cord for bustle ruffles
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I am in the midst of a 'bustle' project and are looking for wired tape or cording of a suitable weight with which to edge ruffling for a bustle.  I have checked G&H and see nothing available.  I have seen a couple of ready made garments in the market place now, so it must be out there.
Kathleen
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Oh that is sooooo beautiful!!!  good luck Drea and thanks Deredere for
posting, its just nice to have a look!

Lisa


----- Original Message -----
From: "Drea Leed" <drea@nospam>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2004 6:52 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century corset on eBay


> You are E-E-E-E-E-VIL!!!
>
> (thanks. :)
>
> Drea
>
> On Fri, 9 Jan 2004, Deredere Galbraith wrote:
>
> > Hi,
> >
> > This is a very nice 18th century corset. There is no way I could affort
> > it but I found it very interesting to look at the pictures.
> > Interesting to see those bun rolls attached to the corset.
> >
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2881190466&category=48864
> >
> > Greetings,
> >         Deredere
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> _______________________________________________
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>


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> She enjoys attending Renaissance Faires, and is trying to figure out 
> what sorts of things she can wear there will look good while seated. 
>  I suggested making a plain "long skirt" out of cheap fabric and 
> wearing it around while using the chair, to get an idea for what would
need to 
> change there.
> 
> Does anyone have any ideas about what might be appropriate or 
> flattering styles?  She is a BIG girl (thanks to treatment side effects
and 
> inability to walk well) Size 28-32 or so, just over 6' tall, and 
> bosomy.

Anything with drapy skirts would be pretty. Italian Ren is great because
the fabrics are allowed to drape naturally as opposed to having
underpinnings which *make* the fabric drape one way or the other. She
might look at making the front of the skirts a tad longer than the back,
to account for the differential when she is seated, so the skirts will
cover her feet (a tip i picked up from a friend who designs skirts for
those who are mobility-assisted). She might consider using a buckram to
stiffen the bodice a little to give her the support she wants. Also if
she uses a bit of fabric "tape" along the bottom of the skirt it will
help keep it from rolling, if fabric rolling is a concern, and putting
curtain weights at the seams can also help with this problem. 

Someone else mentioned leaving a back seam open. If she goes for Italian
Ren, the simple style I mentioned in an earlier post can also leave the
skirt side seams open for about 2-3 inches at the top where the skirt
connects to a side-laced bodice. This makes it easier to pick up the
skirt when dealing with neccessities of life, and also allows her to pin
in a pocket she can reach, or wear a belt under the dress which she can
hang a belt pouch from (which can be discreetly hidden under the skirt
when not in use).

HOWEVER, if she plans on walking around, cut the skirts a little shorter
in the front so she won't trip over them. I typically wear sideless
surcoats to suit my SCA persona, and have walking issues from severe
RA--any skirt I can walk over is a potential hazard. So my seamstress
cleverly put in a wide side gore in the skirt which angled the skirt so
that it is longer in the back than in the front, thus keeping it well off
my feet (my skirts in front are no longer than the tops of my feet), and
allows the skirt to flow gracefully and drape well.
 
> Any suggestions would be appreciated - she is really discouraged 
> about this necessity, and I would like to help her feel "pretty" .  (We

> are talking about making up a horse's head and tail for her "steed"...)

Another thing to consider is dressing her hair to suit the style, or
wearing suitable headwear. Use simple but elegant accessories. Try using
beading to suit the patterns on the fabric if a print on the bodice and
headpiece. I have a gorgeous Italian overgown which is in a quatrefoil
diaper pattern (quatrefoils form the basis of my heraldry ;) )--beading
the dress would be far too busy, so I beaded the front portion of the
matching cap with tiny beads on the pattern--it is very simple and
elegant and has been the source of many complements. 

She can be made to look like an noble lady sitting on her palfrey. Add
horse barding and she's got it made. :-)
 
> Wendy Z

Sounds fun! I've had occaision to look into that as well. Tell your
friend to hang in there--it can be done, and done well.

Arlys

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Jan  9 11:06:39 2004
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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References: <3FFE6C0A.5010102@kabelfoon.nl>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century corset on eBay
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 17:05:09 +0100
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Hi Deredere,
This is a beautifull speciment. Thanks a lot of that link.
It is rather interresting, because i have a pattern, wich looks very much
like this, including the padded rolls and the attached sleaves.
Thanks a lot.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Deredere Galbraith" <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2004 9:53 AM
Subject: [h-cost] 18th century corset on eBay


> Hi,
>
> This is a very nice 18th century corset. There is no way I could affort
> it but I found it very interesting to look at the pictures.
> Interesting to see those bun rolls attached to the corset.
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2881190466&category=48864
>
> Greetings,
>         Deredere
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>


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Subject: [h-cost] Bodice Support
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One of the wenches at our local renfaire has a solution for this.  She
is fairly well-endowed but has had her weight go up and down several
times when she didn't have time to get a new bodice constructed.  Her
solution was to put a triangle of foam (one corner is 90 degrees,
another is elongated, I know there is a name for this kind of triangle
but I can't think of it right now) under the bosom as a support.  The
triangle is about as wide as her nipple-to-nipple measurement, short
side is only about 2 inches deep.  The right angle goes up under the
bosom, elongated point toward the waist. I will try an ascii sketch:
  __
  \  |
   \ |
    \|

 She covered her original 'pillow' in cotton, I used linen for someone
this year, neither has heat problems from the foam.  The bodice/corset
cinches in the bottom part of the foam, pushing part of it up to help
support the bosom.  The only problem we have had is occasionally the
bodice doesn't cinch in the bottom part completely and there was a
slightly rounded, instead of flat, stomach area.  Hope this helps.

Catherine

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bodice Support
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
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Status: RO

Another solution:

What I have seen in theatrical costume sewing was to put a roll on the
bodice/corset/under shirt that is at the height that you want the bottom
edge of your bosom to be. The reason you attach it to your garment is so
that it will not slip and thus let you slip, hence no support.

Chiara

Catherine Kinsey said:
> One of the wenches at our local renfaire has a solution for this.  She
> is fairly well-endowed but has had her weight go up and down several
> times when she didn't have time to get a new bodice constructed.  Her
> solution was to put a triangle of foam (one corner is 90 degrees,
> another is elongated, I know there is a name for this kind of triangle
> but I can't think of it right now) under the bosom as a support.  The
> triangle is about as wide as her nipple-to-nipple measurement, short
> side is only about 2 inches deep.  The right angle goes up under the
> bosom, elongated point toward the waist. I will try an ascii sketch:
>   __
>   \  |
>    \ |
>     \|
>
>  She covered her original 'pillow' in cotton, I used linen for someone
> this year, neither has heat problems from the foam.  The bodice/corset
> cinches in the bottom part of the foam, pushing part of it up to help
> support the bosom.  The only problem we have had is occasionally the
> bodice doesn't cinch in the bottom part completely and there was a
> slightly rounded, instead of flat, stomach area.  Hope this helps.
>
> Catherine
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume



Ches


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century corset on eBay
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In a message dated 1/9/2004 11:06:15 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

> is rather interresting, because i have a pattern, wich looks very much
> like this, including the padded rolls and the attached sleaves.
> 

Yes. And the photos of it are enough so that I think I could make a replica 
of the thing. Great!!!!
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> Yes. And the photos of it are enough so that I think I could make a
replica

I should submit eBay sometime as a secondary source for judging. :)


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-------- Original Message --------
Subject: [Fwd: [Fwd: (no subject)]]
Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2004 13:03:02 -0500
From: Hope Greeenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu>
To: hag@uvm.edu

OK, decision time - and time to make a new gown. I've been looking at
"transition" gowns, the northern European gowns from the turn of the
15th/16th century that have the front opening and square-ish necklines.

If we look at the late "burgundian" variation (or, Robin's "fitted gown
with v-neck variation" !) we see an interesting development. In addition
to the "piece" that covers the bosom horizontally, there is also a
variation at the necklines that fills it in more vertically. As in:

1) Hugo van der Goes: Triptych (1476-79) - Maria Portinari's gown:
http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/art/g/goes/portinar/right.jpg
2) Memling: Barbara Moreel and daughters (1484) - black "piece," black
fill in neckline and white under that
http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/art/m/memling/3mature3/25more31.jpg
3) Memling: Donor (1490) - black "piece" and black fill
http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/art/m/memling/5late/37frag3.jpg
and this variation:
4) Memling: Young woman (1480) - red "piece" and black at neckline
http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/art/m/memling/3mature1/16portra.jpg

Then at the turn of the century the belt goes away, the waist drops, the
neckline becomes more square, there is a definite front opening, and the
gown moves toward the horizontal wide/turn back sleeves look that will
become very popular over the next few decades.

The question is: is the black in the neckline a partlett-type object or
is it the fitted, form-shaping undergown (even a petticoat-bodies 
precursor?)?

1) Coter: Baptism of St. Libertus (1490s)- the more standard look:
http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/art/c/coter/baptism.jpg
2) Master of Moulins: Margaret of Austria (1490) embroidery on black
http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/art/m/master/moulins/anne_aus.jpg
3) Unknown: Archery Festival (1493) - several women have the square-ish
neckline, front opening, filled in black
http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/art/m/master/zunk_fl/15_paint/3/02archer.jpg
4) David: Marriage at Cana (1500)
http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/art/d/david/2/cana_mau.jpg
5) David: donor (1505)
http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/art/d/david/2/trompe.jpg
6) David: donor's child (1505)
http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/art/d/david/2/trompes4.jpg
7) David: children (1505)
http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/art/d/david/2/trompes2.jpg
8) Bosch: Adoration (1510) - donor figure:
http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/art/b/bosch/painting/triptyc2/magi_3.jpg
and an unusual variation:
9) Master of the Legend of St. Ursula: Portrait of a Lady (1480-1500) -
black fill, and another layer between it and gown - unusual.
http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/art/m/master/ursula/4portrai.jpg

I have several other images not online that show the hint of black at
the wrist, suggesting a fitted undergown (including the variation that 
has short sleeves with a voluminous bell shape sleeve under that, then a 
fitted sleeve).

What say you all??

- Hope

P.S. And here are a few more outliers just for fun:
1) Grimani Breviary 1490-1510: my favorite mix of styles!
http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/art/zgothic/miniatur/1451-500/2netherl/05n_1450.jpg
2) Hemesan: Woman weighing Gold - much later but interesting...
http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/art/h/hemessen/jan/weighing.jpg
30 JOOS van Cleve: Portrait of Agniete van den Rijne - the much later 
gown that clearly shows the undergown layers
http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/art/j/joos/cleve/portrai2.jpg




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costumes for musicians
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> BTW, I play harp, and guys don't wear corsets anyway.  nyah nyah nyah
> nyah....

I wouldn't be so sure about that. Well, probably most men didn't, but I'm
willing to bet that certain vain men wore corsets or shapers of some sort.
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"Lisa Sinervo" <Lisa-list@thrednedlestrete.com> wrote:
> > I use a manual wheelchair, but some of this will apply anyway:
> > Make sure the skirt does not bunch up under her when she sits.  A
> > big wrinkle under your butt can become a pressure sore if you can't
> > get up and walk around.
> 
> Or make a skirt with no gathering in the back but only in the front.  This
> way it will still look like a full skirt while sitting,  Okay this doesn't
> address the getting caught in the wheels issue, but still an idea.

You'll still need a method to control the skirt at least at the 
hem level.  If the skirt wants to spread out (either from gores or 
gathering), it'll try and migrate out and back...which usually gets
it caught in the wheels.  Or on some powerchairs, in the servos for
the seating system (seat backs often tilt back, and some seating systems
tilt in space or lift).  In my little manual chair, I've put holes in 
dresses because I didn't at first really how *easy* it was to get something
caught in the wheels and the wheel locks.  Getting something caught in the
wheel locks was a really rude suprise the first time I tried to transfer 
out of the chair and realized I was still attached to the chair. ;}

--Lee

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Cynthia J Ley <cley@juno.com> wrote:
>
> I have a gorgeous Italian overgown which is in a quatrefoil
> diaper pattern (quatrefoils form the basis of my heraldry ;) )--beading
> the dress would be far too busy, so I beaded the front portion of the
> matching cap with tiny beads on the pattern--it is very simple and
> elegant and has been the source of many complements. 

Ah, that's the other thing I learned the hard way: don't bead or heavily
embroider the back of a dress.  I have a short tunic that I made before
I'd spent much time in a wheelchair.  The hem design hits right behind my
knees and the decoration there has to be carefully managed so it doesn't
leave big welts on my skin now.

--Lee

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 15th/16th cent. Transition Gown
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On Fri, 9 Jan 2004, Hope Greeenberg wrote:

> From: Hope Greeenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu>

Hope! You've added an "e"!

> OK, decision time - and time to make a new gown. I've been looking at
> "transition" gowns, the northern European gowns from the turn of the
> 15th/16th century that have the front opening and square-ish necklines.
> 
> If we look at the late "burgundian" variation (or, Robin's "fitted gown
> with v-neck variation" !) we see an interesting development. In addition
> to the "piece" that covers the bosom horizontally, there is also a
> variation at the necklines that fills it in more vertically. ...
> 
> The question is: is the black in the neckline a partlett-type object or
> is it the fitted, form-shaping undergown (even a petticoat-bodies 
> precursor?)?

Well, when you figure it out, tell me!

I've seen nearly all those paintings in person and I still don't know what
that thing is. But my gut -- nothing firmer than that, I'm afraid -- tells
me that it's not a dress. Just the way it wraps around the neck, plus I've
never seen a standalone dress with such a shape at the neck anywhere near
this period (and you do sometimes see underdresses alone, in less formal
images). Also, the uniformity of the color -- always black, which is also
the preferred bosom-fill color -- suggests it's a movable accessory that
can be worn with anything. My inclination, if I have to go by guess, is
that it's a sort of scarf or pre-partlet or in some cases a little
dickey-sort-of-thing.

It's worth remembering that earlier in the century, you sometimes see a
white or transparent silky scarf-like piece draped in this same angle,
sometimes visibly pinned to the front of the horizontal fill-piece or
undergown. So the idea of draping a protective layer around the neck and
over the shoulders isn't completely new. 

Maybe it also serves a practical function with this dress style -- e.g.
does it keep it from slipping or sliding, just as the black velvet strip
under a tall hennin possibly help in securing the hennin? Does it provide
a comfort/cleanliness layer between the fur collar and the skin? And
perhaps most important, does it conceal the neckline of a supportive
underdress that would, otherwise, tend to slip into sight? That last
thought is very attractive, as some of those overgowns go awfully wide,
either at the shoulder (for V-necks) or at the sides of the lower neckline
corners (for square necks such as this one of your examples:
http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/art/d/david/2/cana_mau.jpg ). On that last
example, also note that the underdress cuff is red, which would tend to
argue against a black underdress unless it has red cuffs. If you have a
functional supportive underdress, you would have a lot of problems making
sure that it doesn't peek out at the neck of these overgowns ... but if
you have the options of adding either or both a horizontal bosom-fill
piece and a vertical shoulder-covering piece, you don't need to be
concerned.

> P.S. And here are a few more outliers just for fun:
> 1) Grimani Breviary 1490-1510: my favorite mix of styles!
> http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/art/zgothic/miniatur/1451-500/2netherl/05n_1450.jpg

Watch out for this source! The artists very likely copied parts of some
images from the Tres Riches Heures -- the similarities throughout the book
are too obvious to be an accident. And they may have used other existing
books for image sources as well. I know there have been studies on this,
but the one I have in hand is German, and I don't read a word of that.
Anyway, to my eye, the dagged houppelande in the lower left looks like an
intentional throwback. So I wouldn't be comfortable assuming the styles in
this image (or book) are all contemporary.

> 2) Hemesan: Woman weighing Gold - much later but interesting...
> http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/art/h/hemessen/jan/weighing.jpg

Hemessan? A new name to me, but also a bit out of my usual period. And
"Woman"? Hah. When I look at this I think of a certain Jan Gossaert
painting of a girl holding an astrolabe -- as a visual joke, Gossaert
painted the child in a standard portrait pose normally used for learned
men of science. (And she's holding the astrolabe upside down -- rather
like she's playing dress-up for the portrait. Absolutely charming.) This
appears to be a similar sort of play, though I don't know enough about the
items on the table to know if there's a joke there. But the face is that
of a child. It looks not unlike a Gossaert in the eyes, and in facial
style also much like Quentin Massys (Mestys), one of my all-time favorite
painters.

Here's the Gossaert:  http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/art/g/gossaert/2/girl.jpg

And another Gossaert, a woman portrayed as the Magdalen, with a typical
Gossaertish presentation that's quite similar to the Hemessan:
http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/art/g/gossaert/1/marymagd.jpg

Here's a Massys, so you can see what I mean about the facial style.
(Except that Massys tended to do these weird half-closed eyes.)
http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/art/m/massys/quentin/3/magdalen.jpg

I wonder if Hemessan could have had contact with Gossaert. The site tells
us only that Hemessan (1500-1556) studied in Antwerp and settled in
Haarlem. (Pulls out reference books.) OK, Gossaert (1478-1533) was
registered in the Guild Master's list at Antwerp in 1503, and Hemessen in
1524. Hemessen didn't move to Haarlem till around 1550. They would have
*had* to have known each other, and Hemessen would have likely emulated
Gossaert, who was quite influential. Hmm, and they both went to Italy
(though not at the same time).

My artist reference also says of Hemessen (death date given as 1566 here):
"His satirical portraits link him with Quentin Massys and Marinus van
Reymerswaele." Marinus van Reymerswaele is best known for a series of
paintings showing people handling money (bankers, moneylenders, misers,
tax-collectors), including some showing a moneylender and his wife
counting gold: http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/html/r/reymersw/index.html

Massys also painted the same subject:
http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/art/m/massys/quentin/2/moneylen.jpg

So I think we have a strong case here for some interchange of ideas -- a
satirical portrait of a child in a typical adult portrait presentation, in
this case as a money-counter.

Oh, um, sorry. (Detour: Art historian at work.) Where were we? Oh,
costume. In the money-counting girl. Maybe that black scarf-thing, crossed
over her front neckline, is related to the theoretical black scarf we've
been contemplating.

> 30 JOOS van Cleve: Portrait of Agniete van den Rijne - the much later 
> gown that clearly shows the undergown layers
> http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/art/j/joos/cleve/portrai2.jpg

And this undergown isn't shaped at all like the "filler" pieces we've been
looking at.

--Robin
in work avoidance mode

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century corset on eBay
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>Yes. And the photos of it are enough so that I think I could make a replica
>of the thing.

For this purpose, it's so nice to see the inside of this garment.  The 
average costume book of 25 years ago showed one image from the outside; the 
average costume book of today shows a few images - from the outside only.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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http://members.localnet.com/~barnwood/stayspics.htm

        CarolynKayta Barrows
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Robin Netherton wrote:
 > My inclination, if I have to go by guess, is
> that it's a sort of scarf or pre-partlet or in some cases a little
> dickey-sort-of-thing.

> Maybe it also serves a practical function with this dress style -- e.g.
> does it keep it from slipping or sliding, just as the black velvet strip
> under a tall hennin possibly help in securing the hennin? Does it provide
> a comfort/cleanliness layer between the fur collar and the skin? And
> perhaps most important, does it conceal the neckline of a supportive
> underdress that would, otherwise, tend to slip into sight? 

Ooh! I like this idea! So the supportive undergown could have enough 
structure do actually do some supporting, then the black fill-in piece 
would go over that (which gives you some anchoring options as well--ties 
or pins?), then the gown. That would work. How do you think the front 
closure works on these gowns? You never see evidence of inner lacing 
rings and many of them seem to have a bit of overlap.


>>P.S. And here are a few more outliers just for fun:
>>1) Grimani Breviary 1490-1510: my favorite mix of styles!
>>http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/art/zgothic/miniatur/1451-500/2netherl/05n_1450.jpg
> 
> Watch out for this source! The artists very likely copied parts of some
> images from the Tres Riches Heures 

Thanks for the heads-up. Yes, I've heard that (where..where??) but just 
love this picture--it's like an SCA event except EVERYONE has really 
good clothes.

>>2) Hemesan: Woman weighing Gold - much later but interesting...
>>http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/art/h/hemessen/jan/weighing.jpg
> 
> Hemessan? A new name to me, but also a bit out of my usual period. And
> "Woman"? Hah. When I look at this I think of a certain Jan Gossaert
> painting of a girl holding an astrolabe -- 

Wow! Thanks for the "art historian detour"! That's good info. The Jan 
Gossaert image has long been a favorite of mine, mostly because of how 
it relates to Frech Hood construction, but I had never seen this 
Hemessan before. The only thing mitigating for it being a woman (well, 
besides some evidence of a bosom) is the fact that her veil is down, not 
  up in a bag shape. But that's just a not-quite-informed feeling based 
on not quite enough images.


> --Robin
> in work avoidance mode

Hey, on a Friday afternoon work avoidance is a mental wellness activity!

Thanks for the comments and ideas!

- Hope

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 15th/16th cent. Transition Gown
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I wrote: 
> > Maybe it also serves a practical function with this dress style -- e.g.
> > does it keep it from slipping or sliding, just as the black velvet strip
> > under a tall hennin possibly help in securing the hennin? Does it provide
> > a comfort/cleanliness layer between the fur collar and the skin? And
> > perhaps most important, does it conceal the neckline of a supportive
> > underdress that would, otherwise, tend to slip into sight? 

Hope of the triple-e wrote:
> Ooh! I like this idea! So the supportive undergown could have enough 
> structure do actually do some supporting, then the black fill-in piece 
> would go over that (which gives you some anchoring options as well--ties 
> or pins?), then the gown.

Exactly. Pins are well-established by now for a purpose such as this.
Later partlets tie under the arms, so that might be happening even this
early, but it's not necessary to assume that.

> That would work. How do you think the front closure works on these
> gowns? You never see evidence of inner lacing rings and many of them
> seem to have a bit of overlap.

I assume you mean the overgowns, right? The overlap is, I think, easier to
suss out from pictures than a lot of other options. I would assume there's
a lacing in the overlapped part, connecting the wrong side of the outer
side to the right side of the inner layer.  If there's a supportive
undergown, then the overgown fastening would only need to hold the dress
closed, and wouldn't have much stress to pull it out of shape. And if it's
heavy fabric and furlined, too, it would hold its shape without pulling or
puckering at the lacings.

(I would love evidence of hooks in this period, but I don't know of any
documention for them before the mid-16th century or so. I'm quite willing
to be enlightened. I'm creeping out of my period here.)

That sort of construction would be a lot easier to manage than the
presumed hidden lacings of earlier decades, and may have been an
improvement on those. In many cases the overlap looks to be deliberately
asymmetrical. It strikes me that such a construction would also make it
easier for these overdresses to be made in the absence of the wearer (by a
professional tailor) who could allow a reasonable overlap while cutting
and then later finalize the position of the fastening during a final
fitting.

Hope -- were you at my Boston lecture? I thought I saw your name on the
list and wanted to meet you; did I? (It's all a little foggy now.)

--Robin


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Robin Netherton wrote:

> I assume you mean the overgowns, right? The overlap is, I think, easier to
> suss out from pictures than a lot of other options. I would assume there's
> a lacing in the overlapped part, connecting the wrong side of the outer
> side to the right side of the inner layer.  

Good. I'll give it a try--never had much luck with these things.


> (I would love evidence of hooks in this period, but I don't know of any
> documention for them before the mid-16th century or so. I'm quite willing
> to be enlightened. I'm creeping out of my period here.)

So would I! The closest I've ever come to anything that might, with a 
stretch, be construed, maybe, just maybe, as hooks is a Margaret, 
Marchioness of Dorsets, gown in a Holbein sketch:
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/margaret.jpg
But I think it's just wishful thinking on my part.

> Hope -- were you at my Boston lecture? I thought I saw your name on the
> list and wanted to meet you; did I? (It's all a little foggy now.)


Yes, indeed, and enjoyed every minute, though traffic kept me from 
getting there on time. I was the one in the back with the laptop.
I did ask you a quick question during one of the breaks about hems on 
extant garments--straight or curved.

- Hope

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From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: historical costumes for singers
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Do you need these costumes for SCA events? Or are you SCA folks who want to
sing together at non-SCA events, concerts, etc.?

If the latter is true, then you might be interested in this idea. A couple
of years ago I went to see the Baltimore Consort -- whom you MUST listen to
if you haven't -- and the women wore calf-length dresses made out of stretch
velvet, the kind of fabric used for Christmas dresses sold in stores. They
wore bright jewel colors, the cut was just a simple hourglass shape (no
princess seams or anything) and each one had different sleeve styles. It was
a vaguely medieval look, but easy to care for and comfortable.

Just an idea --

Gail Finke

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Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 14:49:44 -0800 (PST)
From: Angela Kessler <ivyharpdotcom@yahoo.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] aleskine fabric?
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Has anybody heard of a fabric by that name?  It's for
sale in several colors here:
http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/home/catalog_items.cfm?Query=aleskine

It's 85% silk, 15% wool, in a heavy shantung weave. 
It looks intriguing, and $10/yd seems like a pretty
good price.  I'm wondering whether it might be
appropriate for Tudor or 1860s ballgown (I'm thinking
pagoda sleeves).  Anybody worked with it before, or
otherwise have opinions?

Thanks-
Angela

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Jan  9 18:34:11 2004
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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] aleskine fabric?
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 16:33:29 -0700
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Bad Angela, Bad girl! For bringing this to my attention....I swore I was
done buy fabric from anywhere except LA....but this looks fabulous.....

I have a half and half wool/silk  blend from the from Phoenix textiles that
is to die for and great to work with, but have never heard of this
stuff.....

Sg



-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Angela Kessler
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2004 3:50 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] aleskine fabric?

Has anybody heard of a fabric by that name?  It's for
sale in several colors here:
http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/home/catalog_items.cfm?Query=aleskine

It's 85% silk, 15% wool, in a heavy shantung weave. 
It looks intriguing, and $10/yd seems like a pretty
good price.  I'm wondering whether it might be
appropriate for Tudor or 1860s ballgown (I'm thinking
pagoda sleeves).  Anybody worked with it before, or
otherwise have opinions?

Thanks-
Angela

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Jan  9 19:36:12 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century corset on eBay
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Lovely Bit of work, but this is not my period.  Why does it have matching
sleeves?  Were the under sleeves of some form?

Stephen

"I don't suffer from insanity!  I fact I rather enjoy it!"

----- Original Message -----
From: "Deredere Galbraith" <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2004 12:53 AM
Subject: [h-cost] 18th century corset on eBay


> Hi,
>
> This is a very nice 18th century corset. There is no way I could affort
> it but I found it very interesting to look at the pictures.
> Interesting to see those bun rolls attached to the corset.
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2881190466&category=48864
>
> Greetings,
>         Deredere
>
>
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] put your thinking caps on....
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At 10:53 PM 01/08/2004 -0600, zski wrote:
>I have a friend with MS, who has recently learned she will soon need a 
>powered wheelchair or scooter to get around.
>
>She enjoys attending Renaissance Faires, and is trying to figure out 
>what sorts of things she can wear there will look good while seated.  

Wendy, Linda Underhill, who for many years taught acting, singing, and
general How To Be A Renaissance Person to a generation of California Faire
actors, uses a scooter.  She wears loose gowns (also known as ropas or
Spanish Surcoats) trimmed to be simple or sumptuous, depending on the
character she's playing. She's also a very large woman.  She looks
comfortable and elegant.

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"

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Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2004 14:36:23 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>, <h-costume@net.indra.com>
From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] historical costumes for singers
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At 11:59 AM 01/08/2004 -0800, Suzanne Manley wrote:
 Anyway, I'm
>looking for some costume ideas for us; in particular, what style of costume
>would be reasonably compatible with the era of the music we're singing
>(mostly 15th-17th C, Italian/English/Latin and some plainsong) and that
>would also be compatible with the requirements of singing(!).  So no
>probably corsets or boning, unless it can be 'faked' so we can still get a
>really good lungful of air... personally I need about three inches of ease
>at the bottom of my rib cage for a full breath.
>

I sing in a corset, and actually prefer to do so, as it seems to help me
remember to stand properly and to support my diaphragm.  But I don't lace
tightly, no more than 1-2" compression if any.  If that doesn't work,
consider a trick I've seen on performance corsets:  Lace it with elastic!  

The thing I can't stand to wear while singing  is any headress that covers
my ears.  I look great in a French Hood, but you won't see me in one when
I'm going to sing, instead I wear my hair in a net, pinned on so that the
band is behind my ears, and top it with a cap. 

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"

www.margospatterns.com
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>, <h-costume@net.indra.com>
From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] historical costumes for singers
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At 11:59 AM 01/08/2004 -0800, Suzanne Manley wrote:
 Anyway, I'm
>looking for some costume ideas for us; in particular, what style of costume
>would be reasonably compatible with the era of the music we're singing
>(mostly 15th-17th C, Italian/English/Latin and some plainsong) and that
>would also be compatible with the requirements of singing(!).  So no
>probably corsets or boning, unless it can be 'faked' so we can still get a
>really good lungful of air... personally I need about three inches of ease
>at the bottom of my rib cage for a full breath.
>

I sing in a corset, and actually prefer to do so, as it seems to help me
remember to stand properly and to support my diaphragm.  But I don't lace
tightly, no more than 1-2" compression if any.  If that doesn't work,
consider a trick I've seen on performance corsets:  Lace it with elastic!  

The thing I can't stand to wear while singing  is any headress that covers
my ears.  I look great in a French Hood, but you won't see me in one when
I'm going to sing, instead I wear my hair in a net, pinned on so that the
band is behind my ears, and top it with a cap. 

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"

www.margospatterns.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] put your thinking caps on....
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 18:52:36 -0600
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Status: RO

My sympathies to your friend; my mother has MS as well. (She was diagnosed
15 years ago, and she's still active enough that she can wear me out! She
may have an internal medicine drip installed and have to do all her outings
from a wheel chair, but when she gets home she sews, restores antique
furniture, teaches herself high-level computer maintenance, does
calligraphy, etcetcetc... sounds like your friend might be going down the
same path, and yay for her.)

For gowns, I'd suggest nothing that's tightly fitted below the ribcage;
fabric stress wrinkles digging into your belly for hours can get
uncomfortable. Fabric with a bit of stretch to it is a big help, as
well--that way, if she's sitting on her dress just wrong and she needs to
reach over THERE, the fabric will allow her rather than binding her an inch
or two out of reach. (It sounds like a little thing, but range of motion
makes a really big difference.)

For the skirt problem, she might want to sew in a short, color-matched lace
to each side seam of her skirt (or further back, or further forward,
depending on how full the skirt is) a couple inches below the knee. While
seated, she can pull the laces together and tie them, keeping the skirt all
bundled together at the bottom; if she wants to get up, she unties the laces
and poof, the skirt looks pretty much normal, except for the cats climbing
up it to bat at the laces.

AVOID CORSETS. Circulation and muscle tone are really important for MS
patients, and as much as I love corsets, they ain't gonna help with those.
Even a soft, corded corset would be problematic, and for it to really be
right for sitting long-term, it would have to be all wrong for standing up.

-E (please pardon me if this was incoherent. I have the flu and my brain is
in the wastebasket downstairs somewhere.)


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In a message dated 1/9/2004 7:36:45 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
madlystitching@earthlink.net writes:

> Lovely Bit of work, but this is not my period.  Why does it have matching
> sleeves?  Were the under sleeves of some form?
> 
> 

A corset covered in expensive fabric like this one was more than likely worn 
for "undress"...or around the house, suitable to accept guests in...and 
without the sleeves, under a gown.
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Subject: [h-cost] to peascod or not, 1588 men's doublet
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I have a questions I keep going back and forth on in my mind.

I am making a late 1580s (1588) doublet and venetians for my husband, and I 
want to be as close to the best fashion as possible. Peascod bellies are 
the style. However, my husband already has enough girth in his waist area 
already. I am wondering if I should make the doublet with additional 
padding, to make his large belly even larger.

It is hard to determine on the portraits I have seen if a larger man wore a 
peascod doublet, as most men of that age are thin and young, and I know it 
is the style of the times.

The one portrait of a not-so young looking man is Sir Christopher Hatton
http://elizabethangeek.com/costumereview/image.mhtml?image_id=11
It is identified as having a slight peascod belly.

According to an online bio of the man 
(http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/Bios/ChristopherHatton.htm), he would be 48 
in 1588, and hence a better subject for comparison than a younger man, such 
as "A Youth Leaning Against a Tree Among Roses" by Hilliard. 
http://elizabethangeek.com/costumereview/image.mhtml?image_id=16

Anyway, to make a long story short, should I go ahead and pad (lightly or 
to that funny point) the doublet for 1588 fashion's sake, or should I let 
his natural shape remain unpadded. Any thoughts, research, or suggestions 
would be greatly appreciated.

Kimiko

Kimiko Small
Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

Costume Mistress for Isle of Mann Guild
Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
http://www.costumegallery.com 

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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century corset on eBay
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So what would you consider the date on this? The height of the back
waistline and the shape of the tabs would lead me to suspect a 1770s or
later corset...but the 18th c. isn't my forte. Any opinions?

Drea

On Fri, 9 Jan 2004 AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 1/9/2004 7:36:45 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> madlystitching@earthlink.net writes:
>
> > Lovely Bit of work, but this is not my period.  Why does it have matching
> > sleeves?  Were the under sleeves of some form?
> >
> >
>
> A corset covered in expensive fabric like this one was more than likely worn
> for "undress"...or around the house, suitable to accept guests in...and
> without the sleeves, under a gown.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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Geez, where's Bjarne when you need him? <g>
Could it be compared to the one in the Kyoto book by someone who has the 
book? (i.e., *not* me)
--sue, up early cooking for an SCA feast
OCC: I'm cooking for our annual A&S competition, and my entry for the 
competition is a skein of the yarn I'm spinning, with the eventual aim 
of having enough yarn to weave my own gown, using the Yorvik BLT.... 
(okay, so it's a stretch, but it's *sorta* costume related! ;o)

Drea Leed wrote:

> So what would you consider the date on this? The height of the back
> waistline and the shape of the tabs would lead me to suspect a 1770s or
> later corset...but the 18th c. isn't my forte. Any opinions?
> 
> Drea
> 
> On Fri, 9 Jan 2004 AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
> 
> 
>>In a message dated 1/9/2004 7:36:45 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>>madlystitching@earthlink.net writes:
>>
>>
>>>Lovely Bit of work, but this is not my period.  Why does it have matching
>>>sleeves?  Were the under sleeves of some form?
>>>
>>>
>>
>>A corset covered in expensive fabric like this one was more than likely worn
>>for "undress"...or around the house, suitable to accept guests in...and
>>without the sleeves, under a gown.
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
> 
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Dawn Wood" <dawn@agesofelegance.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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	<400000AA.5010009@in-tch.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century corset on eBay
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 14:04:29 -0000
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Status: RO

it's mid century and is similar to the one in teh Kyoto book I am currently
making we have been discussing it on the 18thc list

Dawn


Ages Of Elegance makers of historical clothing, uniforms and bridalwear
http://www.agesofelegance.co.uk 0113 277 6716
> Drea Leed wrote:
>
> > So what would you consider the date on this? The height of the back
> > waistline and the shape of the tabs would lead me to suspect a 1770s or
> > later corset...but the 18th c. isn't my forte. Any opinions?
> >
> > Drea
> >
> > On Fri, 9 Jan 2004 AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
> >
> >
> >>In a message dated 1/9/2004 7:36:45 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> >>madlystitching@earthlink.net writes:
> >>
> >>
> >>>Lovely Bit of work, but this is not my period.  Why does it have
matching
> >>>sleeves?  Were the under sleeves of some form?
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>A corset covered in expensive fabric like this one was more than likely
worn
> >>for "undress"...or around the house, suitable to accept guests in...and
> >>without the sleeves, under a gown.
> >>_______________________________________________
> >>h-costume mailing list
> >>h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >>
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century corset on eBay
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Hi,

I have the book and it looks like the corset from1760.

Greetings,
        Deredere

Sue Clemenger wrote:

> Geez, where's Bjarne when you need him? <g>
> Could it be compared to the one in the Kyoto book by someone who has 
> the book? (i.e., *not* me)
> --sue, up early cooking for an SCA feast
> OCC: I'm cooking for our annual A&S competition, and my entry for the 
> competition is a skein of the yarn I'm spinning, with the eventual aim 
> of having enough yarn to weave my own gown, using the Yorvik BLT.... 
> (okay, so it's a stretch, but it's *sorta* costume related! ;o)
>
> Drea Leed wrote:
>
>> So what would you consider the date on this? The height of the back
>> waistline and the shape of the tabs would lead me to suspect a 1770s or
>> later corset...but the 18th c. isn't my forte. Any opinions?
>>
>> Drea
>>
>> On Fri, 9 Jan 2004 AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
>>
>>
>>> In a message dated 1/9/2004 7:36:45 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>>> madlystitching@earthlink.net writes:
>>>
>>>
>>>> Lovely Bit of work, but this is not my period.  Why does it have 
>>>> matching
>>>> sleeves?  Were the under sleeves of some form?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> A corset covered in expensive fabric like this one was more than 
>>> likely worn
>>> for "undress"...or around the house, suitable to accept guests in...and
>>> without the sleeves, under a gown.
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Jan 10 09:56:42 2004
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] aleskine fabric?
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 07:04:18 -0800
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Very nice!!!  I don't know how great mixed blends are for early Tudor but
definetly by the mid to late 16th century as fabrics known as "New
Draperies" were being produced.  Lighter with mixed blends such as wool and
silk.

Lisa


----- Original Message -----
From: "Angela Kessler" <ivyharpdotcom@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2004 2:49 PM
Subject: [h-cost] aleskine fabric?


> Has anybody heard of a fabric by that name?  It's for
> sale in several colors here:
> http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/home/catalog_items.cfm?Query=aleskine
>
> It's 85% silk, 15% wool, in a heavy shantung weave.
> It looks intriguing, and $10/yd seems like a pretty
> good price.  I'm wondering whether it might be
> appropriate for Tudor or 1860s ballgown (I'm thinking
> pagoda sleeves).  Anybody worked with it before, or
> otherwise have opinions?
>
> Thanks-
> Angela
>
> __________________________________
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 15th/16th cent. Transition Gown
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On Fri, 9 Jan 2004, Hope Greeenberg wrote:

> So would I! The closest I've ever come to anything that might, with a 
> stretch, be construed, maybe, just maybe, as hooks is a Margaret, 
> Marchioness of Dorsets, gown in a Holbein sketch:
> http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/margaret.jpg
> But I think it's just wishful thinking on my part.

Odd, this isn't in any of my four Holbein books, though I have loads of
his sketches.

I'd guess these are lacing rings, as some of the other sketches show
lacing in this position. And the little bumps do look offset here.
Probably too small for hooks in any case.

--Robin

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For Kathy Hoover and others interested in ethnic costume, here is another list of books and other material in pursuit of costume from my collection. These were gleaned from flea markets and from my traveling daughters.

How to Wrap your Pareu Tahiti-M&R Stieher Moorea

Ethnic Costume-Lois Ericson and Diane Ericson. Clothing Designs and Techniques with an International Inspiration(1979)

Norwegian Immigrant Clothing and Textiles-Edited by Catherine C.Cole. Most of this research was garnered from the upper Peninsular USA.

Indonesian Women's Costume-Judi Achjadi. Bilingual presentation of regional costumes of Indonesia

Patterns of Ancient Egyptian Clothing-Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

Puku Suomessa-1750/1900ľ Sirkka Kopisto and Pirkko Sihvo. Most of this book features modern 18th 19th Century clothing of Western modes

Slaskie StroieLuaouie (Folk Costume of Selsia and the Regions of the Katowice Province) Barbara Bazielich- Book is in a native language, but lots of pictures and line drawings for pattern making.

Narodne Nosnje Jugoslavie-Vladimir Kirin- Portfolio of costumes. Wonderful detai;les, but area notes on the back of each plate.

Klederdracten-C Nieuwhoff, W Diepraam, C Oorthuys-Regional headgear of the Low Lands. Wonderful lace, lots of great details of folk in national dress. Also has pictures of step by step donning of the complicated head gear arrangements..I have wondered if some of the base steps of clothing the head have more ancient roots.

Another volume is the presentation of Japanese clothing (Title?) that has the l

layout for a variety of japanese garments , including footwear.

40 Greek Costumes from the Dora Stratou Collection. Another contemporary collection of the traditional

Kathleen
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Kimiko Small wrote:

> At 08:46 PM 1/8/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>
>> Of course, now my bust is not supported: keeps slithering down inside 
>> the front.
>> Phoo.
>>
>> liz young
>
>
>
> Try tacking in a rolled sausage where your breasts would sit on top of 
> them. It was an old trick to give breast more "high cleavage" than 
> normal, especially for smaller breasted ladies. One friend would use 
> old gym socks (cleaned), another used bra paddings or shoulder pads, 
> and I seem to recall The Brown Book just suggesting a small roll 
> tacked into place being helpful.
>
> Just a thought. Do what is best for your needs, corset or otherwise.
>

It was not too awful, wearing the whole ensemble last night. I 
discovered that the shoulder straps of the corset are too long, which 
can be fixed. And that I need to do yet more remodeling on the dress so 
it will work better with this particular corset. I will add the padded 
roll in the future.

liz young


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Netherton lecture day, Springfield IL 3/13/04 
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Forwarding to this list on behalf of the event planner. Please feel free
to repost to other lists. Reservations should go to Mary Conrad (address
below), not to me.

---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 13:56:44 -0800 (PST)
From: Mary Conrad <arfursmom@yahoo.com>

The Shire of Swordcliffe, in conjunction with the student body of the
University of Illinois-Springfield, presents:

Women's Costume in the 14th & 15th Centuries -- an all-day seminar with
Robin Netherton, historic clothing researcher.

Ms. Netherton will be lecturing on feminine clothing styles of the 14th
and 15th centuries.  Ms. Netherton will present five lectures:
	The Gothic Fitted Dress
	The Greenland Gored Gown
	Will the Real Sideless Surcote Please Stand Up?
	The 15th-Century V-Neck Gown
	The Problem of Women's Heraldic Dress

When: Saturday, March 13, 2004

Site: 	Brookens Auditorium, University of Illinois, Springfield IL
	One University Plaza
	Springfield, IL 62703

Directions:  Please use the UIS link to find your best directions to the
site: http://www.uis.edu/maps/uismap.htm 
	Use parking lot B and enter Brookens Library at any door.  Take
the elevator (or stairs) to the 1st floor - turn to your right and follow
the hallway to our registration area.

Times: Site opens 8:30 AM for a continental breakfast (beverages and
muffins).  Lectures begin at approximately 9:30 AM.  Site closes 6:00 PM;
a locally-based post-event social gathering to be announced and publicized
on the sponsoring groups website, see below for links.

Fees:  This is a FREE seminar presented by All Things Medieval, the
student interest group on campus.  The auditorium seats 200 and seating is
on a "first-come, first-served" basis, so please contact the event
organizer to reserve a seat.  This will also help ensure there is an
adequate supply of muffins available.

Listing of Activities:  This is a day of lectures presented in a
modern-era atmosphere.  While co-sponsored by the local SCA group, period
attire is not required to attend the seminars.  Please come dressed for a
day of education and friendly hanging-out.

Other Notes: No childcare is provided.  The site is fully handicap
accessible.  Website for event can be linked to by going to
http://www.midrealm.org and selecting "Calendar of Events" under the
heading "What's Happening".  Go to March 13th, select the event listing
and (by Jan 15, 2004) it should hyperlink you to the website for the
event.

Event Organizer:  Mary Conrad (SCA / Baroness Anntionette Rose) 
	c/o:  Shire of Swordcliffe / Shane Guernsey 
	612 St. Mary's Avenue,
	Springfield IL 62702
	Autocrat phone:  217-898-6509 (cell phone, preferred hours for
contact are after 9PM CST or at reasonable hours between 7PM Fridays & 7AM
Mondays -- gotta love the free minutes thing!)


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] to peascod or not, 1588 men's doublet
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My husband also has "more of a keg than a six-pack", and I would say Sir 
Christopher Hatton, in his doublet, looks about the same shape as my 
husband, unpadded.  It makes me wonder if perhaps this is the original 
intention of the (unpointed) peascod shape, to make a man look well-fed? 
When we went back to an open day at Andrew's old school, one of his 
teachers said he was looking "prosperous" :-)

Jean


Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com> wrote
>I have a questions I keep going back and forth on in my mind.
>
>I am making a late 1580s (1588) doublet and venetians for my husband, 
>and I want to be as close to the best fashion as possible. Peascod 
>bellies are the style. However, my husband already has enough girth in 
>his waist area already. I am wondering if I should make the doublet 
>with additional padding, to make his large belly even larger.
>
>It is hard to determine on the portraits I have seen if a larger man 
>wore a peascod doublet, as most men of that age are thin and young, and 
>I know it is the style of the times.
>
>The one portrait of a not-so young looking man is Sir Christopher Hatton
>http://elizabethangeek.com/costumereview/image.mhtml?image_id=11
>It is identified as having a slight peascod belly.
>
>According to an online bio of the man 
>(http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/Bios/ChristopherHatton.htm), he would be 
>48 in 1588, and hence a better subject for comparison than a younger 
>man, such as "A Youth Leaning Against a Tree Among Roses" by Hilliard. 
>http://elizabethangeek.com/costumereview/image.mhtml?image_id=16
>
>Anyway, to make a long story short, should I go ahead and pad (lightly 
>or to that funny point) the doublet for 1588 fashion's sake, or should 
>I let his natural shape remain unpadded. Any thoughts, research, or 
>suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>
>Kimiko
>
>Kimiko Small
>Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
>"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell
>
>Costume Mistress for Isle of Mann Guild
>Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
>http://www.costumegallery.com
>_______________________________________________
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: movies & canada
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 18:30:22 -0500
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Greetings--

Catching up on some e-mail...

> So my question is, what do I have? Is this a pirated film? Is it a
> remaindered film from a batch of low-cost but legitimate pressings? Do
> movies generally come out in more than one format -- one with extras and
> cheaper ones without? Or do films have different distributors in different
> countries, each of which can put out videos and DVDs?
>
> And what is a 14A rating?

You definitely have a Canadian-issued copy.  Lion's Gate is a fairly
significant movie distributor/producer up here in Canada.  They're based out
of Vancouver (in fact, SCA folks from out that way might know "Lion's Gate"
as the name of an SCA group :-)

Canada also uses a different rating system than the US, and as someone
guessed, 14A is a little like PG13.  One big difference is that the US R is
AA (Adult Accompaniment) in Canada, where R is like the little used NC17 (no
children under 17) in the States.

Susan

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You might want to check out the diptych with the Virgiin and 3 donors by the
Master of the Legend of St. Ursula at this link:
http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/html/m/master/ursula/ .

It looks to me that the older woman has a straight pin holding the edges of
her black filler together.  Personally, I think those black fillers were
worn partly for modesty and mostly for warmth.  They are more common on
older ladies - those who are more interested in practical rather than
fashionable or sexy.  That Burgundian neckline can feel a bit drafty at a
central-heated modern event site and if your castle was chilly enough that
you wanted a fur-lined gown, I bet it could be fairly uncomfortable.

Janet

Janet Davis
Castle Furnishings
http://www.medievalbookstore.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 15th/16th cent. Transition Gown
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On Sat, 10 Jan 2004, Janet Davis wrote:

> You might want to check out the diptych with the Virgiin and 3 donors by the
> Master of the Legend of St. Ursula at this link:
> http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/html/m/master/ursula/ .
> 
> It looks to me that the older woman has a straight pin holding the edges of
> her black filler together.  

Yep.

> Personally, I think those black fillers were worn partly for modesty
> and mostly for warmth.  They are more common on older ladies - those
> who are more interested in practical rather than fashionable or sexy.  

The younger woman has one too, but not closed up. And it appears to lie
over yet another scarf-thing, in a transparent silk.

--Robin

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Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 21:58:48 -0600
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Subject: [h-cost] 1880s skirt construction
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I am trying to put together an 1880s outfit, and it is outside of my
usual time frame.  I will be using the Truly Victorian 1885 Bustle
Cuirass Bodice (long sleeve, high neck), and the 1885 4-gore underskirt
with the pouf back, out of midnight blue bengaline and midnight blue
voided velvet in a floral pattern, all over the Truly Victorian
Petticoat with Wire Bustle.  The idea for the skirt is to have a voided
floral velvet panel down the front, then long kilt pleats of the
bengaline on either side of that, then the back with the pouf also the
bengaline.

The question comes on construction.  As I understand it, first you make
a basic skirt out of a sturdy but cheaper fabric.  What sort of fabric? 
Do I stitch the fashion fabric directly to that?  Is there any extra
reinforcement around the hem?  How do I keep the long kilt pleats
pleated--are they tacked down along the edge, or stitched down?  Should
there be short kilt pleats under any part of the skirt?  Just the front
velvet?  Any other key points to 1880s skirt that set it apart and make
it work?  Any key books or articles I should see before I plunge right
in?  I have some of the basic 19th century sources, but I do not have
one that is strictly 1880s.

Thanks,

Vicki Betts
vbetts@gower.net
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Subject: [h-cost] Somewhat novice needs assistance
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Hi ho:

Since you folks are far more knowledgable than I am than I'll ever be, I
need some help.

I would like to find the original source painting for a drawing I've seen in
"The Mode in Costume".  In the second and expanded edition we have, on page
146, in the Louis XIII era illustrations, there's a Cavalier gentleman from
the 1630s who's holding a cape over his left arm and his hat in the right.
The figure is facing straight out of the frame.

Can anyone tell me where I can find the original, if there is one, because
so far, I can't find it in any of our books.  If there's a similar outfit
somewhere, I'd like to look at it too.

Thanks!

Bruce

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Subject: [h-cost] another eBay book
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Hi all

I know some of you have spoken about the Book of Hours for research 
purposes. Well, there is one available on eBay, if anyone is interested.

BOOK OF HOURS 15th Century French Illuminated
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3579254038&category=7703&rd=1

Good luck!

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

Costume Mistress for Isle of Mann Guild
Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
http://www.costumegallery.com 

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Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 23:27:01 -0800
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] to peascod or not, 1588 men's doublet
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At 11:02 PM 1/10/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>My husband also has "more of a keg than a six-pack", and I would say Sir 
>Christopher Hatton, in his doublet, looks about the same shape as my 
>husband, unpadded.  It makes me wonder if perhaps this is the original 
>intention of the (unpointed) peascod shape, to make a man look well-fed? 
>When we went back to an open day at Andrew's old school, one of his 
>teachers said he was looking "prosperous" :-)
>
>Jean


Hi Jean,

Well my husband definitely would look "prosperous" then. I am thinking of 
going unpadded for now, and if he should continue to lose the weight (and 
the natural padding) to add in padding at that time. Not that I am looking 
forward to unpicking seams, but I don't see the point of additional padding 
when nature has already granted him some. But that is fighting with the 
desire to be as true to period fashion as I can. Hence the going round and 
round on what to do in my mind, and postponing the work I need to be doing 
on his doublet.

Anyway, thanks Jean for your comment. I appreciate it.

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

Costume Mistress for Isle of Mann Guild
Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
http://www.costumegallery.com 

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From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 15th/16th cent. Transition Gown
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 01:36:52 -0600
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Yay! My favorite style of gown.

I do believe that the black thing at the neck is a partlet, or at least is
_sometimes_ a partlet. However, the evidence isn't exactly overwhelming in
either direction.

[Note: nearly all images have been cropped to save space; if you want the
full image, I'll be happy to provide it. Also, apologies if I duplicated
images already posted--I tried to avoid it, but ohwell.]

By the way, they're not all black:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp2/003r.jpg
http://www.formfunction.org/temp2/026r.jpg
http://www.formfunction.org/temp2/041r.jpg
http://www.formfunction.org/temp2/151v.jpg
http://www.formfunction.org/temp2/campbellp147a.jpg
although black does seem to be most common, especially ~1495-1510. Other
than black and white, I haven't seen any that I was sure was both the same
article of clothing, and actually that color--in one, it's russet, but the
woman is bending over and it's not clear what the necklines are doing; in
another it looks blue, but the illumination isn't in the best shape and it
could be wierdly faded black; and so on.

There are many paintings that show a different colored under-dress with the
black (or white) thing:
[see 1-4 above]
http://www.formfunction.org/temp2/1485-90dutch.jpg
http://www.formfunction.org/temp2/__hr_Diana and Hunters.jpg
http://www.formfunction.org/temp2/107r.jpg
http://www.formfunction.org/temp2/1500cana_mau.jpg
http://www.formfunction.org/temp2/1515bruges.jpg

There are, however, many paintings that show the black thing paired with a
black under-dress:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp2/1500david1.jpg
http://www.formfunction.org/temp2/1505-1510gdavidcatherine.jpg
http://www.formfunction.org/temp2/ainsworthgdp74.jpg
http://www.formfunction.org/temp2/ainsworthgdp123.jpg
The black, white, and gold color code for donors is pretty rigid at this
time, so those don't necessarily prove a connection. However, the Gerard
David paintings are worth examining closely. On the first two, if you look
at the edges of the sleeve cuff and of the black thing, you see white
peeking around them, as though the black material is lined with white. In
the St. Catherine painting, GD is obviously suggesting a whole lot of
luxury, with his excessive use of the ermine lining. Just because both the
black thing and the under-dress cuffs are lined with ermine, that doesn't
mean that they're of a piece: _everything_ here is lined with ermine, except
for the belt. In the second, the white peeking out at the sleeve looks less
like lining, and more like a bit of chemise, which is the kind of thing GD
does show; again, no real connection need exist.

If the black thing and the black under-dress are of a piece, there IS a
concurrent style that could fit the bill:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp2/1498magdalen.jpg
http://www.formfunction.org/temp2/1495-1505unicornkilleddet3.jpg
http://www.formfunction.org/temp2/230r.jpg
This style folds over at the front, almost like a bathrobe--in some cases it
folds over by several inches, and worn under a square-necked gown would
provide the desired effect. In this painting, you see this style _worn over_
what may be a black thing (which is worn over a third questionable thing,
probably more scarf-like in the older style):
http://www.formfunction.org/temp2/1500cana_mat.jpg
Unfortunately, the detail just isn't clear enough to draw many conclusions.
You can't tell if the inner black thing folds over itself (as a
partlet/bathrobe dress might) or if it is joined to the other side (as with
other under-dresses).

So why do I think it's a partlet, at least most or part of the time?

First, the differently colored under-dresses strongly suggest that the black
thing is a separate garment, at least in some cases. Second, the precedent
is there; all those cute filmy scarves tucked into the neckline under
square-necked, 'Burgundian', and other styles of gown are almost certainly
separate. Third, the neckline is very high in back, which is not seen with
any of the under-dress styles of the time, nor in the bathrobe or other oute
rwear styles. With good reason; a neckline that high doesn't really work on
a full gown--it's not very comfortable, and it messes with the fit--but it
does work on a light, unseamed (apart from hems, etc) piece of cloth shaped
in such a way that it just folds into place when you drape it over your
shoulders.

And fourth, it's just plain practical, because you can throw it over any
under-dress, and suddenly that under-dress works with your nice new
square-necked gown. Let's say little Miss 1503 has a nice red square-necked
dress she wants to wear. It would look lovely with a green under-dress, but
drat! her only green gown has a round neckline, which would look just silly
under the square neckline. Well, no matter, she can just tuck the partlet in
place and boom, problem solved. Or she wants to wear a colorful under-dress,
but oh dear... black is the fashionable color for peeping out from under the
neckline. Welp, no problem, because she can have both. Or she wants
something kind of fancy showing at the neckline, but yeek, it would cost too
much to make a whole under-dress that fancy. No problem again, because for
half the cost she could make herself half a dozen fancy partlets, and look
twelve times as rich.

This is the (rough, not to scale) pattern I use for my partlets:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp2/partlet.gif
Because of the slope of my shoulders, the two front sides cross over a few
inches below the neckline of my outer dress; the triangular part at back is
because so many of the over-dresses I wear it with have a triangular
neckline at the back, and this uses the least amount of cloth while assuring
complete coverage. The front pieces are a bit on the wide side, because the
square neck can get a bit wide in some years, so again, assuring full
coverage; it may be less accurate, but it makes it so I can wear the thing
with more garments. The neckline at back falls exactly like in the
illustrations; high, but lying flat rather than wrinkling like a scarf.

Phew. Now, fastenings. I've yet to find anything that indicates one way or
another what fastenings were used on square-necked gowns of this specific
style, but there are some clues, and there are plenty of indications of the
fastenings used on other garments at the time.

When the garment fastens at the front, you see either an overlap:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp2/elizabeth_york_1500-03.jpg
http://www.formfunction.org/temp2/1500cana_mas.jpg
or you see the two edges meet, presumably over a hidden fastening:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp2/2204254.bishop.jpg
http://www.formfunction.org/temp2/trivick02.jpg
The placement of the trim sometimes helps to make it clear which is going
on; in these, the trim goes along each edge of the opening, making it clear
that there's no overlap:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp2/norris01.jpg
http://www.formfunction.org/temp2/1507-8massysflem.jpg
So lacking solid information, I considered what type of fastenings shown in
other paintings might be used to create these effects? Well, sometimes
lacing rings were mounted on the inside; these would give the effect of the
two edges close together. Sometimes hooks and eyes were used; these could
produce either effect. Buttons probably wouldn't have been hidden, and even
if they wanted to hide them, their buttons didn't really lend themselves to
being hidden.

They probably adapted the closure to the individual dress: the overlapped
closing would be slightly more secure, especially if they were wearing
nothing but a chemise underneath (as with, say, a very heavy fur-lined
gown); two edges meeting would provide nice clean lines and a mostly hidden
closure, or a perfectly centered place to add trim (especially in more
Germanic areas!).

I generally use lacing rings for the two-edges-meeting closure (well,
honestly, most of the time I wind up having to use the eye part of hooks and
eyes, since I can so rarely find good lacing rings. Anyone have a good
source for a bulk order of  1/4"-3/8" solid rings with smooth insides?) and
hooks and eyes for the overlapping closure. For extra security on the hooks
and eyes, I alternate which edge gets the hook and which gets the eye, which
is a very old trick (but I'm not sure it's _quite_ 15th/early 16thC).

BTW, Fouquet, always one to throw the monkey wrench in, shows some hooks and
eyes in 1442:
<<http://www.asn-ibk.ac.at/bildung/faecher/geschichte/maike/treffpunkt/buch2
-12.htm>>
Broken hooks and eyes were found on hook tabs used to hold up hose, though
from what little I've heard of the find (Winchester, I think?), it wasn't
possible to determine their date. However, if they're holding up hose, that
gives us at least a clue. I believe Gerry Embleton, curator of the armour
museum in Grandson, has some information on the use of hooks and eyes, by
men at least; I've heard that he, too, has traced them at least as far back
as 1440. I have no idea if this is based on that same painting or on
artifacts; however, I do know that a version of hooks and eyes were used on
Imperial Roman armor, so perhaps that use persisted in armor and related
garments.

-E 'flu is boring' House

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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1880s skirt construction
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 09:20:36 -0500
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Vickie, I have two or three skirts of this period.  From them, I have
gleaned the following.
The foundation is of a sturdy fabric that is similar to polished cotton or
chintz by weight. This foundation is usually finished at the bottom with
small pleating  of about 8" all around. With your fabric, this would be of
the bengaline. To keep the pleats in line, they are tacked together
underneath about half way with a running tack stitch.(The flat pleater
carried by Clotilda is a boon in making these pleats!)
The other pleats of the overskirt would also be tacked from underneath in
the same manner...every 4-6" all the way down, or about 10" above the
hemline. The foundation is usually attached to the skirt, but I make my
repro's separate for reasons of overall weight and up keep.  And my cleaner
thanks me also!

Kathleen
;----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Vicki Betts" <vbetts@gower.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2004 10:58 PM
Subject: [h-cost] 1880s skirt construction


> I am trying to put together an 1880s outfit, and it is outside of my
> usual time frame.  I will be using the Truly Victorian 1885 Bustle
> Cuirass Bodice (long sleeve, high neck), and the 1885 4-gore underskirt
> with the pouf back, out of midnight blue bengaline and midnight blue
> voided velvet in a floral pattern, all over the Truly Victorian
> Petticoat with Wire Bustle.  The idea for the skirt is to have a voided
> floral velvet panel down the front, then long kilt pleats of the
> bengaline on either side of that, then the back with the pouf also the
> bengaline.
>
> The question comes on construction.  As I understand it, first you make
> a basic skirt out of a sturdy but cheaper fabric.  What sort of fabric?
> Do I stitch the fashion fabric directly to that?  Is there any extra
> reinforcement around the hem?  How do I keep the long kilt pleats
> pleated--are they tacked down along the edge, or stitched down?  Should
> there be short kilt pleats under any part of the skirt?  Just the front
> velvet?  Any other key points to 1880s skirt that set it apart and make
> it work?  Any key books or articles I should see before I plunge right
> in?  I have some of the basic 19th century sources, but I do not have
> one that is strictly 1880s.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Vicki Betts
> vbetts@gower.net
> _______________________________________________
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>

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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
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Subject: [h-cost] scarlet, flannel petticoats
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I am about to replicate the scarlet crinoline, 1863 from the Cunnington 'History of Underclothes". I am assuming that the flannel is wool in this period, but can someone suggest the correct weight of cloth that was used for petticoats in this period.  I had thought to use some of a 'crepe weight'.  Also, since scarlet was the popular color for this garment, was the scarlet on the yellow to orange side, or the blue side of red?

Kathleen
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] scarlet, flannel petticoats
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Lloyd Mitchell wrote:

> I am about to replicate the scarlet crinoline, 1863 from the Cunnington 'History of Underclothes". I am assuming that the flannel is wool in this period, but can someone suggest the correct weight of cloth that was used for petticoats in this period.  I had thought to use some of a 'crepe weight'.  Also, since scarlet was the popular color for this garment, was the scarlet on the yellow to orange side, or the blue side of red?
> 

There is a red flannel petticoat on the December page of the 2003 
Historic Fashions calendar put out by Sally Queen Associates. It is a 
rich true red, neither orangish or bluish, though it is trimmed with 
electric blue  on the hem. The calendar is currently on clearance if you 
care to pick up a copy for reference.



Dawn





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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] another eBay book
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 14:37:23 -0800
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Lovely!  Just to restrain my acquisitive instincts I usually go to
Bookfinder.com or one of the on-line search engines to see what they have
the book for.  This one is up for $56 from a shop in the UK.  Considering
shipping, etc., a bid of $60 would be reasonable.

Regina
> Hi all
>
> I know some of you have spoken about the Book of Hours for research
> purposes. Well, there is one available on eBay, if anyone is interested.
>
> BOOK OF HOURS 15th Century French Illuminated
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3579254038&cate
gory=7703&rd=1

Good luck!

Kimiko



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From: Kirrily Robert <skud@infotrope.net>
Cc: 
Subject: [h-cost] 1638 silk gown
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I thought you all might like to see the gown I made to wear to an event
set in 1638.  I've posted pictures on my website at
http://elizabethangeek.com/katrowberd/oop/1638/greygown/

The fabric is a lightweight grey/black shot Indian silk, interlined to
give it weight.  The cap and neckerchief are linen.  The lace is
handmade linen bobbin lace which I picked up in Bruges when I was there.
The overall look I was aiming for can be seen in the engravings by
Wenceslas Hollar at http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/HOLLAR.HTM

The bodice and cap are based on Kass McGann's "Reconstructing History"
patterns.  They worked out pretty well, with a few glitches in the
bodice pattern related to issues with making larger sizes - some of the
basic rectangular pattern pieces, including the gathered sleeves,
weren't tested on a real live larger body, I think, so be careful there.
But the bodice pattern itself fit perfectly and the instructions were
quite clear.  Recommended with caveats for larger sizes, which I will
retract when a new edition is released with a few fixes :)

K.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Somewhat novice needs assistance
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Hmmm.  Let's see.  One site says that there was an edict in 1633 
requiring plainer dress, so the fancy lace on the Mode in Costume 
drawing may predate that.

Here's a couple of similar figures, from after the edict:
http://www.costumes.org/HISTORY/17thcent/mensfashionplates/abrahambosse.jpg
http://www.costumes.org/HISTORY/17thcent/mensfashionplates/courtier1633.jpg

There's a few good images on this page:
http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/h/hals/frans/04-1633/index.html
Let's see if I can find some closeups:
http://www.abcgallery.com/H/hals/hals45.html
http://www.abcgallery.com/H/hals/hals21.html

http://www.abcgallery.com/V/vandyck/vandyck92.html
http://www.abcgallery.com/V/vandyck/vandyck90.html

Why didn't you ask me at last night's meeting?  I'm always glad to help 
when I can.

Karen

Bruce & Nora Mai wrote:

>Hi ho:
>
>Since you folks are far more knowledgable than I am than I'll ever be, I
>need some help.
>
>I would like to find the original source painting for a drawing I've seen in
>"The Mode in Costume".  In the second and expanded edition we have, on page
>146, in the Louis XIII era illustrations, there's a Cavalier gentleman from
>the 1630s who's holding a cape over his left arm and his hat in the right.
>The figure is facing straight out of the frame.
>
>Can anyone tell me where I can find the original, if there is one, because
>so far, I can't find it in any of our books.  If there's a similar outfit
>somewhere, I'd like to look at it too.
>
>Thanks!
>
>Bruce
>
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From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1638 silk gown
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At 06:00 PM 1/11/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>I thought you all might like to see the gown I made to wear to an event
>set in 1638.  I've posted pictures on my website at
>http://elizabethangeek.com/katrowberd/oop/1638/greygown/


The dress looks great! Congratulations on creating a beautiful gown.

Kimiko


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From: KATHRYN WOLTERS <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1638 silk gown
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Very nicely done, Kirrily! 
congrats!
Albra

Kirrily Robert <skud@infotrope.net> wrote:
I thought you all might like to see the gown I made to wear to an event
set in 1638. I've posted pictures on my website at
http://elizabethangeek.com/katrowberd/oop/1638/greygown/

The fabric is a lightweight grey/black shot Indian silk, interlined to
give it weight. The cap and neckerchief are linen. The lace is
handmade linen bobbin lace which I picked up in Bruges when I was there.
The overall look I was aiming for can be seen in the engravings by
Wenceslas Hollar at http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/HOLLAR.HTM

The bodice and cap are based on Kass McGann's "Reconstructing History"
patterns. They worked out pretty well, with a few glitches in the
bodice pattern related to issues with making larger sizes - some of the
basic rectangular pattern pieces, including the gathered sleeves,
weren't tested on a real live larger body, I think, so be careful there.
But the bodice pattern itself fit perfectly and the instructions were
quite clear. Recommended with caveats for larger sizes, which I will
retract when a new edition is released with a few fixes :)

K.
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Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 20:45:21 -0500
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1638 silk gown
From: Marsha J Hamilton <mjh@pearlandplume.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Very nice.  Thank you for sharing!

Marsha
-------

on 1/11/04 6:00 PM, Kirrily Robert at skud@infotrope.net wrote:

> I thought you all might like to see the gown I made to wear to an event
> set in 1638.  I've posted pictures on my website at
> http://elizabethangeek.com/katrowberd/oop/1638/greygown/

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From: kat@grendal.rain.com
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 18:15:33 -0800
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> You'll still need a method to control the skirt at least at the 
> hem level.  If the skirt wants to spread out (either from gores or
> gathering), it'll try and migrate out and back...which usually gets it
> caught in the wheels.  Or on some powerchairs, in the servos for the
> seating system (seat backs often tilt back, and some seating systems
> tilt in space or lift).  In my little manual chair, I've put holes in
> dresses because I didn't at first really how *easy* it was to get
> something caught in the wheels and the wheel locks.  Getting something
> caught in the wheel locks was a really rude suprise the first time I
> tried to transfer out of the chair and realized I was still attached
> to the chair. ;}

Bikers have that problem with the "hems" of their pants. They use a 
clip like affair. Perhaps something that could go around the skirts 
at the bottom (like a series of rings around the inside of the hem 
bottom which could be loosed when mobility is desired, and pulled in 
when the skirts needed control.)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 18:21:43 -0800
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] to peascod or not, 1588 men's doublet
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> I am making a late 1580s (1588) doublet and venetians for my husband,
> and I want to be as close to the best fashion as possible. Peascod
> bellies are the style. However, my husband already has enough girth in
> his waist area already. I am wondering if I should make the doublet
> with additional padding, to make his large belly even larger.

I'd say no. While they may have put in padding on some of the more 
obese men in the real time period, our guys don't "cotton" to it.

One of my apprentices has been working on a peascod belly doublet for 
her husband for quite some time, through many fittings. Now, as she 
is finally in the "nearly done and he can wear it phase" he informed 
her that he didn't want to wear something that made him look fatter 
than he really was.

It's so sad. She's put away and doesn't know if she'll ever be able 
to push herself to finish it since he won't wear it anyway. However, 
I was present for one of the fittings (to work out a problem she was 
having) and he looked grand in it. However, *he* doesn't think so, so 
that's the end of it.

So, I would opt for letting his natural self provide any padding. No 
use making him "fatter than he really" is. ;)  (And they say women 
have egos and worry too much about their weight.)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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I didn't know this was still made, but I had heard of it before - several of
Jackie Kennedy's dresses in the Corcoran's "Jacqueline Kennedy The White
House Years" were made out of it. Of course I couldn't touch it but it
seemed to have a heavy drape and ability to hold a shape - at a distance it
almost looked like neoprene (the material used to make scuba diving
outfits).

Allison T.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] scarlet, flannel petticoats
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I have the calendar and some how missed it!  Thankyou very much.
Kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2004 4:27 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] scarlet, flannel petticoats


> Lloyd Mitchell wrote:
>
> > I am about to replicate the scarlet crinoline, 1863 from the Cunnington
'History of Underclothes". I am assuming that the flannel is wool in this
period, but can someone suggest the correct weight of cloth that was used
for petticoats in this period.  I had thought to use some of a 'crepe
weight'.  Also, since scarlet was the popular color for this garment, was
the scarlet on the yellow to orange side, or the blue side of red?
> >
>
> There is a red flannel petticoat on the December page of the 2003
> Historic Fashions calendar put out by Sally Queen Associates. It is a
> rich true red, neither orangish or bluish, though it is trimmed with
> electric blue  on the hem. The calendar is currently on clearance if you
> care to pick up a copy for reference.
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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>

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1638 silk gown
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 23:41:03 -0500
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On Sunday 11 January 2004 07:35 pm, Kimiko Small wrote:
> At 06:00 PM 1/11/2004 -0500, you wrote:
> >I thought you all might like to see the gown I made to wear to an event
> >set in 1638.  I've posted pictures on my website at
> >http://elizabethangeek.com/katrowberd/oop/1638/greygown/
>
> The dress looks great! Congratulations on creating a beautiful gown.

I agree. It looks lovely.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Anything's within walking distance if you have the time." -Steven Wright
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Greetings all,

I am putting together a list of movies that are GOOD examples of 
historical costume.  If you have any favorites, please let me know 
off-list.  I will compile and post to the list.  Thanks!


Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com
*** http://www.alfalfapress.com

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To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 23:05:18 -0600
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1638 silk gown
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Great looking dress! The silver/black fabric is a particularly nice
choice and I love the look of the neck piece.


Karen

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From: "Kim Baird" <kbaird@cableone.net>
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Althea--

You might start with the list Tara McGinnis already has on her web site:
http://www.costumes.org/mwbh/100pages/mwbh.htm

Kim

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Althea Turner
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2004 10:53 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] (no subject)

Greetings all,

I am putting together a list of movies that are GOOD examples of 
historical costume.  If you have any favorites, please let me know 
off-list.  I will compile and post to the list.  Thanks!


Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com
*** http://www.alfalfapress.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] put your thinking caps on....
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> > In my little manual chair, I've put holes in
> > dresses because I didn't at first really how *easy* it was to get
> > something caught in the wheels and the wheel locks.  Getting something
> > caught in the wheel locks was a really rude suprise the first time I
> > tried to transfer out of the chair and realized I was still attached
> > to the chair. ;}
> 
> Bikers have that problem with the "hems" of their pants. They use a 
> clip like affair. Perhaps something that could go around the skirts 
> at the bottom (like a series of rings around the inside of the hem 
> bottom which could be loosed when mobility is desired, and pulled in 
> when the skirts needed control.)

In a manual wheelchair, the wheel locks are levers that press down on 
the back tires, usually in the front of the wheel, just beyond the end
of the cushion (they're part of the frame).  So you'd need a strap at
just above knee height.  In that case, back to my idea of only strapping
the *back* of a skirt, as it'll control the fullness but still let you
move and won't be visible.  It'll be a similar problem if the powerchair
has a tilt or lift seating system, as everything to get caught in will
be from hip to knee level.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1638 silk gown
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Lovely! And the real Belgian lace finishes it off perfectly.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] put your thinking caps on....
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Lee wrote:
>
> You'll still need a method to control the skirt at least at the
> hem level.  If the skirt wants to spread out (either from gores or
> gathering), it'll try and migrate out and back...which usually gets
> it caught in the wheels.  Or on some powerchairs, in the servos for
> the seating system (seat backs often tilt back, and some seating systems
> tilt in space or lift).  In my little manual chair, I've put holes in
> dresses because I didn't at first really how *easy* it was to get
something
> caught in the wheels and the wheel locks.  Getting something caught in the
> wheel locks was a really rude suprise the first time I tried to transfer
> out of the chair and realized I was still attached to the chair. ;}
>
Of course the period answer would be a beautiful litter complete with four
strapping (and handsome) young men to carrying you to all your appointments.
Then skirts in wheels would be irrelevant and you would only have to worry
about the curtain fabric clashing with your gown.

Lisa Sinervo
www.thrednedlestrete.com




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] put your thinking caps on....
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. I am not in a wheelchair or scooter, but if you find where we can get
that, I want one too!

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lisa Sinervo" <Lisa-list@thrednedlestrete.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 12, 2004 10:10 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] put your thinking caps on....


>
> Lee wrote:
> Of course the period answer would be a beautiful litter complete with four
> strapping (and handsome) young men to carrying you to all your
appointments.
> Then skirts in wheels would be irrelevant and you would only have to worry
> about the curtain fabric clashing with your gown.
>
> Lisa Sinervo

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] historical costumes for singers
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> The thing I can't stand to wear while singing  is any headress that 
> covers
> my ears.  I look great in a French Hood, but you won't see me in one 
> when
> I'm going to sing, instead I wear my hair in a net, pinned on so 
> that the
> band is behind my ears, and top it with a cap. 
> 
> Margo

I sing with a choral consort--anything that covers your ears is bad news.
If I'm doing medieval, I wear a light linen veil under my Laurel
circlet--the veil is ovoid so it tucks and drapes away from my ears and I
don't need to use any headbands with it as my circlet keeps it neatly in
place. If I'm doing Renaissance, I wear Italians, and have a very nice
bag-style Italian cap that lets me hear well and keeps my unruly hair
tamed.

Arlys

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Robin Netherton wrote:

>>http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/margaret.jpg
> I'd guess these are lacing rings, as some of the other sketches show
> lacing in this position. And the little bumps do look offset here.
> Probably too small for hooks in any case.

Yes, I'm afraid I have to agree. Interestingly, the other front laced 
gowns where you actually see the lacing (More's daughters) don't seem to 
use rings through which a lace is threaded. Rather, they seem to have 
ties that tie horizontally across the undergown and are affixed directly 
to the front opening edge of the overgown.

I think the Hunnisett model (front opening with spiral lace covered by 
pinned stomacher) has proven so popular that that's what we "see" in our 
mind's eye when we think of these gowns. But those Tudors were so chary 
of showing their lacings/fastenings that for all we know they could have 
been using zippers! Kidding, kidding, of course...!

- Hope

P.S. I'll dig out my source for the "Margaret" sketch to see if this is 
considered a genuine Holbein or not.

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Janet Davis wrote:

> You might want to check out the diptych with the Virgiin and 3 donors by the
> Master of the Legend of St. Ursula at this link:
> http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/html/m/master/ursula/ .

Thanks for the link--I missed that one!

- Hope

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Wow! Thanks so much for your thorough reply and links. I'd be interested 
in knowing where the first batch of images came from--they don't seem 
familiar. (http://www.formfunction.org/temp2/003r.jpg, 026r.jpg, 
041r.jpg, and 151v.jpg)

I'm having to rethink this gown now, not for the partlet/not partlet 
debate, but for the fur! Fur lining seems to be the requirement for this 
gown and that's not something I want to tackle (or wear at indoor 
events)! Hmm...maybe it's back to Tudors for me.

One thing I seem to be appallingly bad at is getting a front laced gown 
to close properly so that the edges just meet, without overlap or 
puckering, the lace cannot be seen, and the rings don't pull. Even when 
the gown is fitted properly with an undergown taking the stress I get a 
bit pf puckering. I do better with hooks but lacing rings still have me 
stumped. Any tricks?

- Hope

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> I'm having to rethink this gown now, not for the partlet/not partlet
> debate, but for the fur! Fur lining seems to be the requirement for
> this gown and that's not something I want to tackle (or wear at indoor
> events)! Hmm...maybe it's back to Tudors for me.

You might be surprised. While most of the portraits and the like show 
fur linings, the inventories list those lined with brocades (for 
"summer"), so you might still be able to use that style.

> One thing I seem to be appallingly bad at is getting a front laced
> gown to close properly so that the edges just meet, without overlap or
> puckering, the lace cannot be seen, and the rings don't pull. Even
> when the gown is fitted properly with an undergown taking the stress I
> get a bit pf puckering. I do better with hooks but lacing rings still
> have me stumped. Any tricks?

Over the lacing you can have what is called a "placard". That was a 
fairly plain "stomacher" like thing which was pinned over the 
lacings. The inventories list them as separate items, so I suspect 
that sometimes they were worn, sometimes they weren't, or sometimes 
the more elaborately embroidered and/or brocaded stomachers were 
worn. (They are usually listed as being plain fabric such as black 
velvet or red velvet. It's probably what Jane Seymour is wearing in 
the famous Holbein. However, they start showing up as early as Edward 
IV and he's decidedly earlier than 1500!)

One thing also that I've found is to have a 1/4" steel corset stay 
along each edge of the garment so that the lacing holes don't pull so 
badly. They may have had this edge boned in some way (although with 
what, I don't know because in early Tudor times you don't find many 
references to whale boning in inventories and trade stuff, and most 
other things are too stiff. Perhaps the reeds) or is more heavily 
interlined at the edge at least. (It's easier to work with that if 
you are handsewing than if you are trying to machine sew it.)

But you don't have to give up on doing that transitional time. It's a 
really lovely period IMHO.

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Hope Greenberg wrote:
> One thing I seem to be appallingly bad at is getting a front laced gown 
> to close properly so that the edges just meet, without overlap or 
> puckering, the lace cannot be seen, and the rings don't pull. Even when 
> the gown is fitted properly with an undergown taking the stress I get a 
> bit of puckering. I do better with hooks but lacing rings still have me 
> stumped. Any tricks?

One side with a lightweight bone in it works for me.  It's possible that 
cording-under-compression (so it's stiff) would work for a more 
plausibly accurate solution.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

   "Such virtue hath my pen...."  -Shakespeare, Sonnet 81
        "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!"  --Cynthia V.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: folkwear book -revisited
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I received my copy in the mail this morning and after looking at it I 
have some comments to add, particularly for those who may be considering 
a purchase.

It's got a variety of pictures, photographs, old postcards, line 
drawings, and the like. Everything, where possible is in color (there 
are B&W postcards and old photos). Unfortunately while most pictures are 
captioned almost none of them are dated, and few have a reference to 
place or ethnicity -- though you can sometimes infer from the text what 
they are showing you. There are pictures of garments or textiles that 
are uncaptioned, and I *think* some of them are meant to be modern 
reproductions in the style that the chapter discusses, but you really 
can't tell sometimes.

Throughout the book there are templates and diagrams and instructions 
for embellishment projects like stamping, embroidery, applique and 
patchwork -- all techniques you will use in the second half of the book. 
The directions for the 6 garments they offer directions for take up at 
least half the volume. The directions look pretty clear to me and they 
come with little diagrams showing individual assembly steps. Each 
garment is illustrated with pictures of the originals and of reproductions.

So, overall, what it lacks in the documentation and references, I think 
it makes up for with the projects and instructions. This is definitely 
more of a 'how-to' book than a history book.



Dawn



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Subject: [h-cost] aleskine fabric?
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without seeing a swatch....
For 1800's

    Too heavy.
    Too slubby.

Mia in Charlotte


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From: Heather Meadows <alice@wonderland.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] aleskine fabric?
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 09:37:43 -0800
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I don't know if modern aleskine is the same, but a silk/wool fabric 
named aleskine was in use in the 1830s.

.heather.


On Jan 12, 2004, at 9:10 AM, Ellen Dappert wrote:

> without seeing a swatch....
> For 1800's
>
>     Too heavy.
>     Too slubby.
>
> Mia in Charlotte
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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kat@grendal.rain.com wrote:

> You might be surprised. While most of the portraits and the like show 
> fur linings, the inventories list those lined with brocades (for 
> "summer"), so you might still be able to use that style.

Thanks. That's good news. Would you happen to have readily to hand the 
references for the inventories. Are these published or no? I'd love to 
do some follow up research.

- Hope

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No, don't give up because of the fur--there are plenty of examples that
aren't fur-lined. If Anne de Bretagne can wear an unlined version, so can
you! I'm about to go run errands, but this evening I'll post a few images of
unlined ones.

Small lacing rings--like 1/4" outer diameter--set close together. However,
it's easier to put in hidden hooks and eyes, just like on that 1442
Fouquet--why not do that?

-E

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Hope Greenberg" <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu>

> I'm having to rethink this gown now, not for the partlet/not partlet
> debate, but for the fur! Fur lining seems to be the requirement for this
> gown and that's not something I want to tackle (or wear at indoor
> events)! Hmm...maybe it's back to Tudors for me.
>
> One thing I seem to be appallingly bad at is getting a front laced gown
> to close properly so that the edges just meet, without overlap or
> puckering, the lace cannot be seen, and the rings don't pull. Even when
> the gown is fitted properly with an undergown taking the stress I get a
> bit pf puckering. I do better with hooks but lacing rings still have me
> stumped. Any tricks?
>
> - Hope

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this is just a YIPPY post.  i don't know if you all remember that I had 
lost the pattern to the folkware patterns that i had bought.  well, even 
thougnh I haven't had a chance to get copies from the library of books 
mentioned and i know know that there are perhaps more period (for what i 
am aiming at--will use this advise on the next round, in a couple of 
months-after i get the projects planed out).

anyway, i found the pattern!!! in had been shoved into my "pantry" 
shelves in the basement, not the "sewing" shelves.   just found it 
yesterday.

jordana



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> > You might be surprised. While most of the portraits and the like
> > show fur linings, the inventories list those lined with brocades
> > (for "summer"), so you might still be able to use that style.
> 
> Thanks. That's good news. Would you happen to have readily to hand the
> references for the inventories. Are these published or no? I'd love to
> do some follow up research.

I've only gotten them from published studies. The easiest one to find 
is The Inventories of Henry VIII edited by David Starkey. 

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 15th/16th cent. Transition Gown
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E House wrote:
> No, don't give up because of the fur--there are plenty of examples that
> aren't fur-lined. 

I'm wondering if the ones that seem to have been fur lined for the 
winter and brocade lined for the summer, were entirely resewn, or if the 
fur was sewn on over the brocade.  It would save effort.... then again, 
nobles had lots of people to do all the annoying jobs like resewing the 
whole lining twice a year.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

Ask yourself - "How would Sauron have described the situation?"
And then -- "What might 'really' have happened?"  -- David Brin
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Here's another related question:

This variation shows up in several places:
http://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/sca/15th/ainsworthgdp123.jpg
http://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/sca/15th/ainsworthgdp75.jpg

These are by Gerard David. I haven't collected very many images of this 
style. Has anyone noticed if they are associated with "saints-wear" or 
gowns that would not be worn by real people?
Any ideas about that sleeve?

- Hope

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Well, drat, I don't have time to do my main errand today after all, so back to procrastinating on that whole laundry thing.

There's the whole tiny, close-set lacing rings (we're talking like 1/2" distance _at most_ here), and then there's also something I've been doing on a few very puckery early 15th century gowns where even that didn't work, and I wanted to use a technique that I could at least talk myself into considering a natural outgrowth of what was already being done.
http://www.damehelen.com/sewing/card.html illustrates the technique of using cardweaving to strengthen the edges of buttonhole fastenings on sleeves. For those naughty puckering laced openings, I do the same thing--a strip of cardweaving up each side of the opening. It does a great job of keeping things unwrinkled, although you have to be careful with your tension. As a personal preference, I let the weaving wrap around the edge like a tube with a slit in it, which gives it even more stability. (Just make your weft stitches in an overcast fashion.) It would also be possible to hide it all on the inside, although it's a neat, decorative touch, if a bit old fashioned for most of the 15th century.

A cord works well, too, and is at least as accurate, although that's not saying too much--has anyone found any written reference to this type of strengthening? You don't even need a stiff cord for this to work; I've used a very limp cotton yarn as stiffener with no problems. The key is making the channel really, really tight; if it's not tight enough, you'll still get puckering even with a stiff cord.

Here's a small collection of unlined or fabric-lined square-necked gowns, from 1475 into the 1520s:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp2/unlined/

By the way, drat it all, I've already deleted the post, but someone asked about certain illuminations I posted earlier. They're from my current favorite manuscript, MS Douce 195 at the Bodleian library; it's a French, 1475 Roman de la Rose, and is available on line:
http://image.ox.ac.uk/show?collection=bodleian&manuscript=msdouce195
but the images are abso-freaking-lutely huge.

-E


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 > I haven't collected very many images of this
 > style. Has anyone noticed if they are associated with "saints-wear"

> http://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/sca/15th/ainsworthgdp75.jpg

This one has a tower on her hat, which means it's almost certainly, um, 
Barbara?  That's her "attribute," otherwise known as "medieval closed 
captioning."  I am confident in saying that regular women didn't wear 
towers on their hats like that.  It's somewhat subtle, though, for a Saint!

Other than that, the only odd-ish thing is those wide sleeves.  I can't 
speak to that.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 15th/16th cent. Transition Gown
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 16:18:50 -0600
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I think this specific example may be "saints-wear"--are you referring to the
turned up short sleeve, or to the wide white sleeve, or both worn together?
There are a few non-saints-wear examples that resemble that look, but
they're not Flemish; they're Dutch, and I think one or two are French. The
flipped-up, fur-lined short sleeve is seen reasonably often, though in the
context it may indeed be symbolic. Short sleeved or sleeveless versions with
chemise(?) sleeves showing, both fancy and plain, are pretty common as well,
both on saints and field-workers.

However, in the first painting, this specific sleeve doesn't really make
structural sense as a short-sleeved gown over a chemise--who would wear
their chemise _over_ their undergown?  In the second painting the black
undergown isn't visible, but since it's the same guy painting basically the
same dress, it's not too far a leap to assume it's meant to be there as
well. If it were to be a reflection of real fashions, the only sensible
answer I can think of would be a false sleeve, attached to the short outer
sleeves far enough up that they can still flip up.

If you want a short sleeve with a fancy, white sleeve underneath, they're
shown. If you want a flipped up short sleeve, that's there too. If you want
the white, conical sleeve over a black undergown, with the flipped up short
sleeves, you'll be getting into very iffy ground, in my opinion--that first
painting is the only one I've ever found with that specific combination.

By the way, 2nd painting, left sleeve? It flips up, then back down again;
the sleeves are longer on the outside than under the armpit. A couple years
back I spent hours staring at it before I figured that out, so just in case
you get stuck there too, there you go. Also, note the seams on her bodice!

-E

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Hope Greenberg" <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 12, 2004 3:42 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 15th/16th cent. Transition Gown


> Here's another related question:
>
> This variation shows up in several places:
> http://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/sca/15th/ainsworthgdp123.jpg
> http://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/sca/15th/ainsworthgdp75.jpg
>
> These are by Gerard David. I haven't collected very many images of this
> style. Has anyone noticed if they are associated with "saints-wear" or
> gowns that would not be worn by real people?
> Any ideas about that sleeve?
>
> - Hope
>
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>

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There WAS a fabric silk/wool Alaskine used in early and mid 19th cent.  ( Late
19th cent. I don't know enough about, Tudor too.) The period examples I have seen
"look" much lighter, less slubs, a crisp hand, but still a bit of drape.  The
picture on the web looks like modern home furnishing material.  Again it looks
very much heavier, stiffer, with more slubs.   If anyone obtains a sample and it's
lighter weight than it looks, let us know.  I want  Silk/Wool and cheep too!

Mia in Charlotte, NC
Former G Street Fabric employee and haunter, where they had real designer
alaskine, in dress and suiting weight like Jackie Kennedy wore, Heavy Heavy
alaskine in the Home dec, occasionally bengalene, and I even saw and felt a piece
of barathea (calm down grl)

> I don't know if modern aleskine is the same, but a silk/wool fabric
> named aleskine was in use in the 1830s.
>
> .heather.
>
> On Jan 12, 2004, at 9:10 AM, Ellen Dappert wrote:
>
> > without seeing a swatch....
> > For 1800's
> >
> >     Too heavy.
> >     Too slubby.
> >
> > Mia in Charlotte
> >
> >
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>
> ------------------------------
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> End of h-costume Digest, Vol 3, Issue 24
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From: Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] aleskine fabric?
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Sounds interesting, but if it has a shantung weave it would probably be
too slubby for 1860's.  They prized smooth fine weaves.  Might be nice
for 1890's though.....

Katy

On Fri, 9 Jan 2004, Angela Kessler wrote:

>Has anybody heard of a fabric by that name?  It's for
>sale in several colors here:
>http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/home/catalog_items.cfm?Query=aleskine
>
>It's 85% silk, 15% wool, in a heavy shantung weave.
>It looks intriguing, and $10/yd seems like a pretty
>good price.  I'm wondering whether it might be
>appropriate for Tudor or 1860s ballgown (I'm thinking
>pagoda sleeves).  Anybody worked with it before, or
>otherwise have opinions?
>
>Thanks-
>Angela
>
>__________________________________
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Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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>Of course the period answer would be a beautiful litter complete with four
>strapping (and handsome) young men to carrying you to all your 
>appointments.
>Then skirts in wheels would be irrelevant and you would only have to worry
>about the curtain fabric clashing with your gown.
>
>Lisa Sinervo
>www.thrednedlestrete.com

Atlantia has one in the Queen's regalia.
Maddalena
>

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> Here's a small collection of unlined or fabric-lined square-necked
> gowns, from 1475 into the 1520s:
> http://www.formfunction.org/temp2/unlined/

Cool! Where did http://www.formfunction.org/temp2/unlined/adb3.jpg 
come from? I'm hoping it is from a book so that I can see it in hard 
copy. (So much gets pixelated when its a computer image.)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Mari Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Litter
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And I recall the event it was used at...  goood God I'm getting old.
Bridgette


>>Of course the period answer would be a beautiful litter complete with four
>>strapping (and handsome) young men to carrying you to all your appointments.
>>Then skirts in wheels would be irrelevant and you would only have to worry
>>about the curtain fabric clashing with your gown.
>>
>>Lisa Sinervo
>>www.thrednedlestrete.com
>
>Atlantia has one in the Queen's regalia.
>Maddalena
>
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From: "Tonkin, Rebecca (PIRSA-SARDI)" <tonkin.rebecca@saugov.sa.gov.au>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 15th/16th cent. Transition Gown
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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 11:04:23 -0500
From: Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 15th/16th cent. Transition Gown

I'm having to rethink this gown now, not for the partlet/not partlet 
debate, but for the fur! Fur lining seems to be the requirement for this 
gown and that's not something I want to tackle (or wear at indoor 
events)! Hmm...maybe it's back to Tudors for me.

Hi:
I made a transitional tudor gown a few years ago - the square necked, tight
sleeve with turned back cuff sort, made of red velveteen with linen lining.
About 1485-1490-ish. I wanted to make it with period fastenings, so I used
lacing rings to do up the front. After sewing 60-odd lacing rings in 3
times, I found the best configuration was rings on top of the left front, on
the edge, and underneath the right front, set back about 1.5 " from the
right edge. But it sagged, wrinkled and buckled, and the little flap about
an inch wide that overlapped the left side rings flopped open all the time.
I decided that in lieu of the leather from the furs to keep the fabric from
flopping, I needed a substitute. A cheap, cool, substitute. Heavy grade
interfacing, ironed on both the velveteen and the linen lining, has
stiffened it admirably. (Period correctness went out the window
unfortunately...)

(Hope wrote:)
>One thing I seem to be appallingly bad at is getting a front laced >gown to
close properly so that the edges just meet, without >overlap or puckering,
the lace cannot be seen, and the rings don't >pull. Even when the gown is
fitted properly with an undergown >taking the stress I get a bit pf
puckering. I do better with hooks >but lacing rings still have me stumped.
Any tricks?

Well, stiffening it solved the problem for me - the front looks very smooth,
rather flattish, in fact. My edges don't meet edge to edge though, the right
(when I wear it) overlaps the left about an inch. I think the interfacing
prevents the material from puckering.
I spiral lace, BTW.
I also use 3 florists pins - top, middle, bottom of the lacing strip - to
ensure that the overlap can't flap back and reveal the lacing rings. They
have pearl heads, because that's the way they came, but the pearls aren't
really noticable, and if they were plain heads I think they'd be invisible.
Perhaps stiffening with canvas, or some other period substitute, between the
outer layer and the lining, could achieve the same effect as the
interfacing? I also think that for my dress, the slight tension from being
laced around me helps to keep the bodice smooth.
Hope this helps,
Rebecca


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jan 12 19:44:56 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Somewhat novice needs assistance
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 18:44:27 -0600
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Didn't even think of it until I got home.  Thanks.  Too bad apparently no
one else has had any ideas.

Bruce

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Karen Heim" <axejudge@accessus.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2004 5:05 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Somewhat novice needs assistance


> Hmmm.  Let's see.  One site says that there was an edict in 1633
> requiring plainer dress, so the fancy lace on the Mode in Costume
> drawing may predate that.
>
> Here's a couple of similar figures, from after the edict:
>
http://www.costumes.org/HISTORY/17thcent/mensfashionplates/abrahambosse.jpg
>
http://www.costumes.org/HISTORY/17thcent/mensfashionplates/courtier1633.jpg
>
> There's a few good images on this page:
> http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/h/hals/frans/04-1633/index.html
> Let's see if I can find some closeups:
> http://www.abcgallery.com/H/hals/hals45.html
> http://www.abcgallery.com/H/hals/hals21.html
>
> http://www.abcgallery.com/V/vandyck/vandyck92.html
> http://www.abcgallery.com/V/vandyck/vandyck90.html
>
> Why didn't you ask me at last night's meeting?  I'm always glad to help
> when I can.
>
> Karen
>
> Bruce & Nora Mai wrote:
>
> >Hi ho:
> >
> >Since you folks are far more knowledgable than I am than I'll ever be, I
> >need some help.
> >
> >I would like to find the original source painting for a drawing I've seen
in
> >"The Mode in Costume".  In the second and expanded edition we have, on
page
> >146, in the Louis XIII era illustrations, there's a Cavalier gentleman
from
> >the 1630s who's holding a cape over his left arm and his hat in the
right.
> >The figure is facing straight out of the frame.
> >
> >Can anyone tell me where I can find the original, if there is one,
because
> >so far, I can't find it in any of our books.  If there's a similar outfit
> >somewhere, I'd like to look at it too.
> >
> >Thanks!
> >
> >Bruce
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >h-costume mailing list
> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 15th/16th cent. Transition Gown
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Wow, I go away for a day, and there are more posts than I can even think
of responding to. Please forgive my incomplete reply; I do want to hit a
couple of points before the thread goes way beyond them. (And anyone who
is waiting for me to answer a private note, on anything -- I'm way behind,
and I'll try to catch up tonight!)

The part I want to respond to now: fur linings.

Hope wrote:

> I'm having to rethink this gown now, not for the partlet/not partlet
> debate, but for the fur! Fur lining seems to be the requirement for
> this gown and that's not something I want to tackle (or wear at indoor
> events)! Hmm...maybe it's back to Tudors for me.

Kat replied:

> You might be surprised. While most of the portraits and the like show
> fur linings, the inventories list those lined with brocades (for
> "summer"), so you might still be able to use that style.

...and regarding the inventories, cited:

> I've only gotten them from published studies. The easiest one to find
> is The Inventories of Henry VIII edited by David Starkey.

A word of caution: The Henry VIII inventory dates from 1547, and Hope's
examples center around the 1490s or so. Also, the Henry VIII inventory is
English, and Hope's interest seems to be Franco-Flemish.

So, does 40 years and a hop across the channel make a difference? In this
case, yes, a huge one. By sheer happenstance, I was reading about this
yesterday in Elspeth Veale's "English Fur Trade in the Later Middle Ages,"
which is an extraordinarily readable study despite being absolutely
jam-packed with documentary references on fur use in the 12th-16th
centuries. One of the points that struck me (even before I came home to
these posts today) was how the use of fur linings in fashionable garments,
which was ubiquitous in the 14th and 15th centuries, dropped to next to
nothing by the mid-16th century in England. In the 14th and 15th
centuries, by far the most expensive component of a garment was the fur,
costing far more than the dress fabric in the cases Veale cites. By the
last half of the 16th century, this was reversed fabrics became the focus
for extravagant spending. Veale cites economic, technological,
legislative, and practical reasons for the decline in fur use and provides
detailed inventory and price information, as well as descriptive quotes
from documents about the fur trade. (Her book has been recommended on this
list before; I will go so far to say that anyone working in 14th-16th c.
clothing needs to stop everything they are doing right now and go ILL a
copy.) 

So I daresay that the Henry VIII inventory and other English 16th c.
documents are not a reliable guide for fur use in 1490-1500 Flanders. The
Henry VIII documents are early enough in the century to still show plenty
of examples of sumptuous fur use, but would also have proportionally more
unfurred garments than would have been the case just a few decades
earlier.

Be that as it may, Kat's main point still holds, to a degree. Veale does
cite earlier inventories that refer to unfurred garments. (Again, these
are English, not Flemish, but 15th c. England is probably more reflective
of mainland European usage than 16th century England. And while Veale
focuses on England, you can pick up quite a bit of side information about
Franco-Flemish fur use as well.) In the 14th and 15th c. inventories Veale
describes, the vast majority of gowns were fur-lined, with a very few
unlined gowns in the mix. So someone with six or eight gowns might have
only one unfurred one. Her examples, alas, are mostly male. But at least
they give us a sense of proportion, and make it clear that fur lining was
the desirable default, not an occasional rare extravagance.

What isn't clear from Veale's citations -- she did not write from a
costumer's standpoint -- is whether there's a difference in style between
the furred and unfurred gowns, as well as the known seasonal difference
(the unfurred ones being reserved for summer). I would speculate on a
possible distinction between furring of overgowns and furring of
undergowns. That is, perhaps undergowns might have been more likely to be
unfurred than furred. However, I wouldn't be able to source that
assumption without doing a study of inventories myself, preferably those
from the right time and place. (If I ever learn yet another language, I
want it to be Flemish.)

As for Flanders, E wrote:

> No, don't give up because of the fur--there are plenty of examples
> that aren't fur-lined.

...and posted these examples:

> Here's a small collection of unlined or fabric-lined square-necked
> gowns, from 1475 into the 1520s:
> http://www.formfunction.org/temp2/unlined/

Here's an area where I think it's dicey, in many cases, to rely too much
on certain types of images for a particular detail. First, I'm guessing E
chose these because no fur lining is visible. However, the lack of a
visible lining in an image doesn't mean that the artist was attempting to
represent a gown without fur lining, but only that the artist didn't show
a lining. I'd approach linings as I would lacing openings, embroidery, and
certain other types of details -- when the artist does show them, we know
for sure he meant to indicate they were there, but if the artist doesn't
show them, in many cases that doesn't tell us they're *not* there.

This is particularly true for manuscript paintings, which tend to be
small, simplified, and error-prone when it comes to layers and details.
Also, manuscript painters often chose colors of the various costume
components for purposes of contrast and composition, not as an accurate
reproduction of reality. (Documentary references often show proportionate
use of color in wardrobes to be far different from that which appears in
manuscripts.) Manuscript paintings most likely were rarely painted from
life, as they were often taken from model books or otherwise done as stock
figures. Panel paintings, by comparison, are often more likely to be
painted from life, to represent specific garments (though sometimes studio
model garments!), and to use realistic colors. (There's a different set of
caveats with portraits, of course -- such as the possible addition of
nonexistent jewelry, better-quality materials/furs, etc., at the request
of the sitter.)

Most of the examples E has on her list are of manuscript paintings, and
many from a single source (and very small in their original version).
These are wonderful sources for style/silhouette and such things as hem
length or neckline shape, but I wouldn't want to use them to build a case
for color or such details as fur use or layering. It's worth noting,
though, that some of the manuscript examples -- the woman spinning, and
the one with the lamb -- may represent underdresses being worn alone for
work or informal situations, not the overgown with the lapped opening and
wider sleeves that Hope was asking about. I'd more readily see these as
consistent with the idea of an unfurred gown. But we can't tell either
way.

Of the examples on E's list that look like panels, adb3.jpg appears to me
to show fur-lined dresses, but perhaps I'm not seeing it as well -- can
you give us a cite, so I can try to find it elsewhere? I can't tell much
from the Dutch "vanleyden," but I'd like to know who the woman pouring
water is; she looks potentially Biblical, though this might be a genre
painting, in which case there's a likely class issue involved. (I'm
guessing that for 1500-50bruges.jpg, you want us to look at the donor,
who's a sea of black on my monitor. The saint is irrelevant, but in any
case appears to have fur-lined body but not necessarily sleeves; I'd like
to see this in a better image before forming any stronger opinion.)

In case it's not clear, I'm definitely *not* arguing that all gowns at
this time were furred. I think it's very likely that some were not. It's
just that the manuscript paintings don't provide the necessary evidence.
The inventories provide our best solid evidence for the occasional use of
non-furred garments, but they don't tell us which garments were
non-furred. So unless and until we get more to work with, we have to rely
on educated guesses.

Cynthia (I think) mused:

> I'm wondering if the ones that seem to have been fur lined for the
> winter and brocade lined for the summer, were entirely resewn, or if
> the fur was sewn on over the brocade.  It would save effort.... then
> again, nobles had lots of people to do all the annoying jobs like
> resewing the whole lining twice a year.

Veale cites a number of examples of fur linings being moved from an old
garment to a new one, typically when the garment was being replaced. She
also goes into detail on the trade of used furs, in which linings from
older garments were resold for use in newer ones. And linings could be
replaced when worn, or presumably upgraded or downgraded depending on
finances. So the idea of removing furs and moving them into new garment
was known. That seems a bit different from routine seasonal lining
switches, though. 

At one point in the book she mentions the introduction of standalone fur
linings that could be worn with multiple outfits, as a cost-saver to avoid
having to line each garment separately. I don't have the quote in my
notes, so I don't know when this usage first appeared, but I gathered it
was a rather late innovation -- probably 16th century, which would explain
why I didn't make a note of it (that's past my period of interest). I do
recall, though, that this was in the context of male garments. I don't
know if the same would apply to women's. (Hmm, it's also possible that the
reference was in Elisabeth Ewing's "Fur in Dress," a much lighter overview
that I also read this week.)

Hope also asked:

> One thing I seem to be appallingly bad at is getting a front laced
> gown to close properly so that the edges just meet, without overlap or
> puckering, the lace cannot be seen, and the rings don't pull. Even
> when the gown is fitted properly with an undergown taking the stress I
> get a bit pf puckering. I do better with hooks but lacing rings still
> have me stumped. Any tricks?

Um, line it with fur? ;-)

Seriously, if fur is out of reach, then something else with the same
properties might help. Perhaps a layer of very thin leather, maybe
chamois, on the inside of the bodice?

I have recently acquired a large chunk of heavy coating fabric that's a
combination of wool and camel's hair. It has a furry, napped surface not
unlike a very thin short fur. I'm going to try using that to line a 15th
century dress. Yes, I will swelter. But I really want to see the effect it
has. I think that the general dismal failure of most 15th-c. reproductions
to replicate the drape, line, and fold patterns of medieval art lies in
the lack of fur linings.

Enough for now. I have a huge in-box full of mail that I probably won't
get through tonight, and an overdue journal article to finish (now that
I've got my fur footnotes in order).

--Robin

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Alas, I found it on a website with no identifying information:
http://www.publius-historicus.com/anne_br.htm
Assuming that's Claude on her lap, that would place the date of the
illumination(?) in the first few years of the 1500s, but I'm not much help
beyond that. If anyone tracks it down, let me know; I'd love a better look
too!

-E

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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A quickie followup:

On Sun, 11 Jan 2004, E House wrote:

<snip discussion of The Black Thing Around the Neck>

> So why do I think it's a partlet, at least most or part of the time?
> 
> First, the differently colored under-dresses strongly suggest that the
> black thing is a separate garment, at least in some cases. Second, the
> precedent is there; all those cute filmy scarves tucked into the
> neckline under square-necked, 'Burgundian', and other styles of gown
> are almost certainly separate. Third, the neckline is very high in
> back, which is not seen with any of the under-dress styles of the
> time, nor in the bathrobe or other oute rwear styles. With good
> reason; a neckline that high doesn't really work on a full gown--it's
> not very comfortable, and it messes with the fit--but it does work on
> a light, unseamed (apart from hems, etc) piece of cloth shaped in such
> a way that it just folds into place when you drape it over your
> shoulders. And fourth, it's just plain practical, because you can
> throw it over any under-dress, and suddenly that under-dress works
> with your nice new square-necked gown.

Yup, yup, yup, and yup -- see my earlier followup. I think our posts must
have crossed in the listmail. (If I had known you were going to handle
that department, I might not have bothered to post myself ;-) )

> I generally use lacing rings for the two-edges-meeting closure (well,
> honestly, most of the time I wind up having to use the eye part of
> hooks and eyes, since I can so rarely find good lacing rings. Anyone
> have a good source for a bulk order of 1/4"-3/8" solid rings with
> smooth insides?)

Soldered jump rings are a mainstay for jewelry making, and available in a
variety of sizes. E, I routinely buy them in sterling silver or 14K
gold-filled versions, from a local wholesaler, and I'll be happy to pick
some up for you or point you to their office. Or go here:

http://www.firemountaingems.com/search.asp?SKW=jumpring+soldered

If you want base metal, I bet you could get them at any craft store that
carries jewelry supply -- JoAnn's or Michaels, maybe.

> BTW, Fouquet, always one to throw the monkey wrench in, shows some hooks and
> eyes in 1442:
> <<http://www.asn-ibk.ac.at/bildung/faecher/geschichte/maike/treffpunkt/buch2-12.htm>>

Well, THAT is cool. Definitely the earliest I've ever seen. And it's a
legit portrait of a real person, even if he is a fool.

--Robin


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On Monday 12 January 2004 12:05 pm, Dawn wrote:
[snip]

> So, overall, what it lacks in the documentation and references, I think
> it makes up for with the projects and instructions. This is definitely
> more of a 'how-to' book than a history book.

Exactly.  Though somebody who had knowledge of the provenance of the folk 
costume discussed from other sources could doubtless turn the how-to 
information in the book to good use in making reproductions.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Anything's within walking distance if you have the time." -Steven Wright
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> Alas, I found it on a website with no identifying information:
> http://www.publius-historicus.com/anne_br.htm
> Assuming that's Claude on her lap, that would place the date of the
> illumination(?) in the first few years of the 1500s, but I'm not much help
> beyond that. If anyone tracks it down, let me know; I'd love a better look
> too!

	If you have the 1999 Medieval Woman Calendar, it's partially
pictured for the month of August.  The reference it gives is
ANNE OF BRITTANY RECEIVING DIGNITARIES (detail)
Petrarch.  La Remede de Fortune.
French, 1503.
Bibliotheque Nationale.
Photo:  Bridgeman Art Library International.

Only about half of the .jpg above is included, as it's just the corner of
the larger picture--only about 1/8 of the full page.  The picture is cut
off right below her hand.

annora

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At 06:44 PM 1/12/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>Didn't even think of it until I got home.  Thanks.  Too bad apparently no
>one else has had any ideas.
>
>Bruce


May not be too many of our specific time periods of knowledge. I know it 
isn't mine. Hope you find your answer.

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

Costume Mistress for Isle of Mann Guild
Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
http://www.costumegallery.com 

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Subject: [h-cost] silk thread covered buttons
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Hi all,

Again I am looking for some further info on doing that man's 1588 doublet. 
This time I am trying to find directions on how to recreate period silk 
thread covered buttons, like the kind shown in Janet Arnold's Patters of 
Fashion on so many of the doublets and jerkins there.

I have wooden globular type of buttons to use as the base, but I am not 
sure how to proceed to make the right buttons. I will need a lot to go down 
the front of the doublet, and on the sleeves. So I figured I should work on 
those asap. Any online or book information would be very helpful.

Or barring actual creation of them, anyone know of a good source for 
similar type of buttons that I can buy a 2-3 dozen of, without costing an 
arm and a leg?

Thanks!

Kimiko
Kimiko Small
Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

Costume Mistress for Isle of Mann Guild
Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
http://www.costumegallery.com 

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From: kat@grendal.rain.com
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> > I've only gotten them from published studies. The easiest one to
> > find is The Inventories of Henry VIII edited by David Starkey.

But that isn't the only place I've found them. Just the easiest to 
find.

> A word of caution: The Henry VIII inventory dates from 1547, and
> Hope's examples center around the 1490s or so. Also, the Henry VIII
> inventory is English, and Hope's interest seems to be Franco-Flemish.
> 
> So, does 40 years and a hop across the channel make a difference? In
> this case, yes, a huge one. By sheer happenstance, I was reading about
> this yesterday in Elspeth Veale's "English Fur Trade in the Later
> Middle Ages," which is an extraordinarily readable study despite being
> absolutely jam-packed with documentary references on fur use in the
> 12th-16th centuries. One of the points that struck me (even before I
> came home to these posts today) was how the use of fur linings in
> fashionable garments, which was ubiquitous in the 14th and 15th
> centuries, dropped to next to nothing by the mid-16th century in
> England. In the 14th and 15th centuries, by far the most expensive
> component of a garment was the fur, costing far more than the dress
> fabric in the cases Veale cites. By the last half of the 16th century,
> this was reversed fabrics became the focus for extravagant spending.
> Veale cites economic, technological, legislative, and practical
> reasons for the decline in fur use and provides detailed inventory and
> price information, as well as descriptive quotes from documents about
> the fur trade. (Her book has been recommended on this list before; I
> will go so far to say that anyone working in 14th-16th c. clothing
> needs to stop everything they are doing right now and go ILL a copy.) 
> 
> So I daresay that the Henry VIII inventory and other English 16th c.
> documents are not a reliable guide for fur use in 1490-1500 Flanders.
> The Henry VIII documents are early enough in the century to still show
> plenty of examples of sumptuous fur use, but would also have
> proportionally more unfurred garments than would have been the case
> just a few decades earlier.
> 
> Be that as it may, Kat's main point still holds, to a degree. Veale
> does cite earlier inventories that refer to unfurred garments. (Again,
> these are English, not Flemish, but 15th c. England is probably more
> reflective of mainland European usage than 16th century England. And
> while Veale focuses on England, you can pick up quite a bit of side
> information about Franco-Flemish fur use as well.) 

One thing to point out is that if you are looking at "is it possible 
to wear a gown (since it is considerably warmer where the modern 
wearer is than it was in the places the modern wearer wants to 
emulate) which is unfurred (so "I" don't have heat stroke or have to 
hock something to be able to afford it)?" vs "What is the most common 
lining fabric of this period?" you are going to come up with 
different information.

Just opening _The Wardrobe Accounts of King Edward the Fourth_ (who 
is admittedly English) I found "a demy gown of grene velvet and a 
gowne of grene damash, bothe gownes lyned with blac satin..." with 
only a quick flip through. Edward is 1480. (This is a man's 
inventory, by the way.)

In the Privy Purse Expenses of Elizabeth of York (1502, but again 
English) there are numerous mentions of payments "Itm for lynyng of a 
gowne of black velvet for the Quenes grace.." to the tailor 
(taillour). However, it seems that when a "gowne" is even repairing 
fur, it goes to the furrier (well, actually a "skynner"). For example 
"to John Hayward skynner for furring of a gown of crysyn velvet for 
the Quene of Scottes and for two synnes of pampelyon for the cuffes 
of the same gown.." So, it seems that at least in her books, if it is 
lined with fabric it goes "to be lyned" to the taillor and if with 
fur it goes "to be furred" by a skynner. (These are not as easy to 
parse out as the inventories because you have to pick out the 
clothing bits from the expenses for the servant to take the garments 
to be repaired, the "bucckes" and "woodcocks" delivered at the same 
time by others, etc.)

> Veale cites a number of examples of fur linings being moved from an
> old garment to a new one, typically when the garment was being
> replaced. She also goes into detail on the trade of used furs, in
> which linings from older garments were resold for use in newer ones.
> And linings could be replaced when worn, or presumably upgraded or
> downgraded depending on finances. So the idea of removing furs and
> moving them into new garment was known. That seems a bit different
> from routine seasonal lining switches, though. 

I have not gotten the impression from inventories, privy purses or 
other sources that the linings were taken out of a dress which then 
had a more seasonally appropriate lining put in. They seem to both be 
"hanging in the closet ready to wear" so to speak. 

But the main point is that even if there is a shift from mostly 
furred to rarely furred (which probably happens in the second half of 
the 16th C especially, even from my reading), there were still plenty 
of unfurred garments around. (It seems to me that as the furred 
garments segue into fabric lined, so do the trained dresses segue 
into untrained "round gowns".)

I think I'd like to find a copy of Veale at some point. It sounds 
like good stuff.

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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> Alas, I found it on a website with no identifying information:
> http://www.publius-historicus.com/anne_br.htm
> Assuming that's Claude on her lap, that would place the date of the
> illumination(?) in the first few years of the 1500s, but I'm not much
> help beyond that. If anyone tracks it down, let me know; I'd love a
> better look too!

Durn. I was really hoping for a book (which often has others from the 
same "workshop".)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk thread covered buttons
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For making thread covered buttons:

http://www.vertetsable.com/docs/elizabethan_buttons.pdf
and
http://www.vertetsable.com/demos_buttons.htm
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I would recommend the book:


"50 Heirloom Buttons to Make" by Nancy Nehring
Taunton Press   1996  ISBN 1-56158-146-1

The type you are probably interested in is called a 'dorset knob' and is
found on page 22. 



Karen

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk thread covered buttons
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 00:51:52 -0500
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I don't have a copy of Janet Arnold in the house, but there is a book, _50
Heirloom Buttons_, which has directions for thread-covered buttons.  If you
go to the Amazon link below, there is a blow-up of the cover; if they look
like what you want to make, this may be the book for you.
                  -Helen/Aidan

http://www.amazon.com/gp/reader/1561581461/ref=sib_dp_pt/103-4641887-6900644#reader-link


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Subject: [h-cost] silk thread covered buttons
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From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: [h-cost] silk thread covered buttons
Hi all,
This time I am trying to find directions on how to recreate period silk
thread covered buttons, like the kind shown in Janet Arnold's Patters of
Fashion on so many of the doublets and jerkins there.

Hello:
Try this site:
http://www.vertetsable.com/demos_buttons.htm
There is a downloadable pdf as well:
http://www.vertetsable.com/docs/elizabethan_buttons.pdf

Rebecca
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 15th/16th cent. Transition Gown
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Second post first:

Hee, yeah, our answers sort of crossed--I didn't pick yours out of the 200+
I've yet to read until after I posted.

A local source for tiny soldered rings? Yay, where? I've checked Joann's and
etc in the past (but not since I moved here) with no luck; the best I've
found was 5/16" OD welded steel rings at Lowes, but they never had more than
a few dozen at a time, and I want a few hundred. I'll be checking Fire
Mountain as well. (The husband will be relieved to get his soldering iron
back.)

There's another, slightly later portrait that I remember showing hooks and
eyes as well, but darn it all, now that I'm looking for it I cannot find it.
I remember it being late 15th C, on a man's grayish garment, in nice
portrait detail, but argh--I spent an hour looking through the files for it
with no luck. If I run across it later, I'll post it. There are also a few
of what are thought to be extant medieval hooks and/or eyes, but due to the
nature of the finds the date is just way too sketchy (12th-18th century). On
the text side, most of what I've found has related to the various groups who
followed Menno Simons; increasingly fancy buttons were shunned in favor of
the old-fashioned, plain, hook-and-eye, beginning something in the mid or
late 16th century. However, that reaction was late enough (not required
among the Amish until 1697) that 'old fashioned' may not mean anything to
us. Most authors who mention hooks and eyes just repeat the 'really hard to
date' mantra.

(As an aside, I'd be interested in knowing if Gonella's costume would be
more likely to contain 'traditional' bits than normal clothing, and how it
would be affected by fashion.)

On to fur lining. (Incidentally, the file names there are misleading; there
are no more than 2 images from any single manuscript.) That quick selection
of images was chosen specifically because the lining was not a key 'fur'
color, such as white, black, gray, or brown. After probably-fur-white, black
is the most common lining color. Dark fur was swinging back into popularity
at the time in question, so I left those out--even the ones I'm almost
certain were fabric, as the paintings were quite detailed and showed fur at
the same scale.

The women in the background of the Anne de Bretagne image are wearing what
are probably fur-lined gowns. Anne herself is not; the insides of her
sleeves are red, and the neckline trim shows no likely signs of fur. The Van
Leyden painting depicts one of Lot's daughters, so yes, biblical. The narrow
vs wide sleeve is a timeline thing; the wide sleeves become popular around
1490.

Moving outside of the square-necked gown area, the sheer volume of unlined
or fabric lined garments shown in paintings of this time make me sure that
it was a very real option, and not just a saint signature thing. I love
inventories; I truly do, and I want to see as many of them as possible...
and I am actually very suspicious of paintings--I'd love to attend one of
those symbolism in art lectures, btw--but honestly I just find the volume of
paintings, portraits, etcetc that show unlined garments too overwhelming. If
I had a week to sort, upload, and cut & paste, I could fill up my generous
web space with 'em!

(In general, I do gather that we have a small philosophical disagreement on
what elements of a saint-heavy or allegorial image should be ignored.
Sometime when the list is lagging...)

Incidentally, the fur seems to get rarer as one gets closer to Germany, at
least near the turn of the century--I think the heavy Anglican bias of
available inventory information is indeed throwing things off.

Oy, much more to say, but it's bedtime and if I want to finally get to the
cloth store tomorrow so I can hoard--er, buy more wool, I gotta leave early.

-E

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From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk thread covered buttons
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At 12:08 AM 1/13/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>For making thread covered buttons:
>
>http://www.vertetsable.com/docs/elizabethan_buttons.pdf
>and
>http://www.vertetsable.com/demos_buttons.htm


Oh, Thank you so much! These are just what I was looking for.

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

Costume Mistress for Isle of Mann Guild
Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
http://www.costumegallery.com 

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From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk thread covered buttons
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>"50 Heirloom Buttons to Make" by Nancy Nehring
>Taunton Press   1996  ISBN 1-56158-146-1


Hello Karen and Helen,

Thanks so much for the book recommendation. The pdf links I was given 
recommended this book as well. I think I will have to buy the book!

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

Costume Mistress for Isle of Mann Guild
Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
http://www.costumegallery.com 

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... so we're not discussing our local shopping trips on the list ;-)

> A local source for tiny soldered rings? Yay, where? I've checked
> Joann's and etc in the past (but not since I moved here) with no luck;
> the best I've found was 5/16" OD welded steel rings at Lowes, but they
> never had more than a few dozen at a time, and I want a few hundred.
> I'll be checking Fire Mountain as well. (The husband will be relieved
> to get his soldering iron back.)

Look at the Fire Mountain link I gave you, which is the search page for
the soldered jump rings.

The same thing is available locally here through the
gemstone/pearl/jewelry wholesaler I use, about 15 minutes' drive east of
me on Olive St. More expensive than Fire Mountain, but if you're buying
only 100 or 200, the postage on the Fire Mountain mail-order will tip the
balance and you might as well get it locally. If you want to go there (or
want me to pick them up for you), let me know. I'm out there every couple
of weeks, usually for findings.

On the other hand, I order from FM every couple of months, so if you're
not in a rush, let me know, and I'll add it to my next order and save you
most of the shipping.

> The women in the background of the Anne de Bretagne image are wearing
> what are probably fur-lined gowns. Anne herself is not; the insides of
> her sleeves are red, and the neckline trim shows no likely signs of
> fur.

I'll answer that on the list, but FYI, on the Medieval Woman calendar
image, it looks like brown fur to me. Has irregular spotty markings. Tiny
line of the same shade at her neck.

> Moving outside of the square-necked gown area, the sheer volume of unlined
> or fabric lined garments shown in paintings of this time make me sure that
> it was a very real option, and not just a saint signature thing.

Are you confusing my post with someone else's? Or is that directed to
someone else? (I haven't caught up on all the posts yet, I think.) I
didn't say a thing about saints except when I was guessing which figure
you wanted us to look at in one picture (and the saint had a furred
bodice, anyway). I certainly didn't suggest lack of fur lining was a saint
signature thing! (And I wouldn't say that by any means. Fur is common
enough for saints. In fact, it's interesting to see how certain saints are
shown *outdated* styles of furs, as a sort of "historic" code.) And I
*did* say I figured there were non-furred garments. My point was only that
I wouldn't rely on the ms illuminations to make that case because the
absence of a detail (or a color change) is not a reliable indicator in
that medium. I personally think the inventories do make a sufficient case
for the existence of non-furred garments, and probably portraits also in
conjunction with that -- but the portraits you showed didn't seem to be
the best examples, so I couldn't point to them and say "yeah, like that."

> (In general, I do gather that we have a small philosophical
> disagreement on what elements of a saint-heavy or allegorial image
> should be ignored. Sometime when the list is lagging...)

Again, was this meant for me? I didn't mention saints in this discussion,
though I'll admit it's common enough for me to bring it up. I've had to
wipe out too many of my own assumptions over the years regarding what was
worn when, after seeing enough instances where an element appears *only*
in allegorical contexts. But I don't eliminate allegorical images
entirely; it's a matter of figuring out what elements *are* safe to deal
with. Knowing the influences among various painting schools really helps
(who was copying what from whom).

> I think the heavy Anglican bias of available inventory information is
> indeed throwing things off.

In general, yes, for us English-speakers. I really would like to read
medieval Flemish. The French researchers are doing good work but most of
it is not published or cited by English-language speakers. Like we're
operating on parallel planes.

--Robin



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Well, *that* was dumb. Please ignore my previous post under this header.
Or at least ignore the chitchat about local shopping. The rest was
probably destined for a public response anyway.

Been years since I've done that :-P

--Robin


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From: "Lisa Sinervo" <Lisa-list@thrednedlestrete.com>
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	<5.2.1.1.0.20040112215652.02565f58@64.87.54.245>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk thread covered buttons
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 05:00:22 -0800
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I've made some buttons from Tammy's instructions and they are simple to do
and come out beautiful too.  Time consuming though.

Have fun!

Lisa Sinervo


----- Original Message -----
From: "Kimiko Small" <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 12, 2004 9:57 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk thread covered buttons


> At 12:08 AM 1/13/2004 -0500, you wrote:
> >For making thread covered buttons:
> >
> >http://www.vertetsable.com/docs/elizabethan_buttons.pdf
> >and
> >http://www.vertetsable.com/demos_buttons.htm
>
>
> Oh, Thank you so much! These are just what I was looking for.
>
> Kimiko
>
>
> Kimiko Small
> Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
> "When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell
>
> Costume Mistress for Isle of Mann Guild
> Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
> http://www.costumegallery.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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Subject: [h-cost] Miser's purses or other beaded purse patterns
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Has anyone come across any online patterns for these type of purses please ?

Thanks

Mel

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jan 13 08:34:02 2004
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] silk thread covered buttons
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 07:33:14 -0600
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Ya- I made a little kit with thread, needle, folding scissors, piece of
dowel about 1 inch long, beads and floss that fit into an Altoids tin
and it just rode in the purse, so whenever I had a couple of minutes I
would do another button.
Many moons ago, but I still remember having it handy when I went to Jury
duty; talk about multi-tasking!
Betsy

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Lisa Sinervo
Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2004 7:00 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk thread covered buttons

I've made some buttons from Tammy's instructions and they are simple to
do
and come out beautiful too.  Time consuming though.

Have fun!

Lisa Sinervo


----- Original Message -----
From: "Kimiko Small" <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 12, 2004 9:57 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk thread covered buttons


> At 12:08 AM 1/13/2004 -0500, you wrote:
> >For making thread covered buttons:
> >
> >http://www.vertetsable.com/docs/elizabethan_buttons.pdf
> >and
> >http://www.vertetsable.com/demos_buttons.htm
>
>
> Oh, Thank you so much! These are just what I was looking for.
>
> Kimiko
>
>
> Kimiko Small
> Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
> "When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell
>
> Costume Mistress for Isle of Mann Guild
> Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
> http://www.costumegallery.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 15th/16th cent. Transition Gown
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On Mon, 12 Jan 2004, Hope Greenberg wrote:

> Here's another related question:
> 
> This variation shows up in several places:
> http://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/sca/15th/ainsworthgdp123.jpg
> http://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/sca/15th/ainsworthgdp75.jpg
> 
> These are by Gerard David. I haven't collected very many images of this 
> style. Has anyone noticed if they are associated with "saints-wear" or 
> gowns that would not be worn by real people?

In addition to the various things people have already mentioned, I'd class
the brocade hem band in illus. #2 as a "fantasy figure" element. I don't
think I've seen that touch on "normal" clothing. Elaborated hems
(goldwork, jewels) do pop up on saints, mythological characters, angels,
and sometimes historical royalty.

The "Lady" in the Cluny tapestry has some embellished hems, along with
quite a number of other "goddess" details -- even if the lady being
pictured was a real woman, she is presented in those tapestries dressed as
a fantasy figure.

In Bruges I saw a painting of the last judgment in which people in plain
white robes were being admitted into heaven -- and each was being given a
robe with a jeweled hem.

If anyone does see a good non-symbolic use of a hem band like this in 15th
c. or earlier, I'd like to know.

Of course, fur bands in realistic contexts are plentiful (and practical).

--Robin


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 15th/16th cent. Transition Gown
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Kat writes:
> But the main point is that even if there is a shift from mostly 
> furred to rarely furred (which probably happens in the second half 
> of 
> the 16th C especially, even from my reading), there were still 
> plenty 
> of unfurred garments around. (It seems to me that as the furred 
> garments segue into fabric lined, so do the trained dresses segue 
> into untrained "round gowns".)

"Round gowns"??

Arlys

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Subject: [h-cost] Anyone have a description of this book on Chinese Costume?
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Chinese Clothing: Costumes, Adornments, Culture
by Shaorong Yang

Many thanks!  

Apollonia
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> Kat writes:
> > But the main point is that even if there is a shift from mostly
> > furred to rarely furred (which probably happens in the second half
> > of the 16th C especially, even from my reading), there were still
> > plenty of unfurred garments around. (It seems to me that as the
> > furred garments segue into fabric lined, so do the trained dresses
> > segue into untrained "round gowns".)
> 
> "Round gowns"??

They come in various sorts (a German round gown of ...., a French 
round gown..., etc.) Basically, it was their way of saying 
"untrained."

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: steel rings at Lowe's
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I work for a Lowe's in Rolla, Mo. If you ask them to they can order the
rings for you in any quantity you need. Ask for a Dept manager and they can
get them in. If it's a stock item (and I'm sure they are) they can get them
in without you having to pay for them in advance.

Lori S

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 15th/16th cent. Transition Gown
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On Mon, 12 Jan 2004 kat@grendal.rain.com wrote:

> > > I've only gotten them from published studies. The easiest one to
> > > find is The Inventories of Henry VIII edited by David Starkey.
> 
> But that isn't the only place I've found them. Just the easiest to 
> find.

OK. I wasn't sure if you were picking up on Hope's passing mention of
Tudor (though she was actually asking about 1490s Flanders), which might
have been confusing if you hadn't seen her earlier post describing her
project.

(And I bet you, too, can see how some reader, not thinking it through,
might blithely go out and use a 1547 English reference to document a 1490s
Flemish style because she saw it on h-cost ;-) )

> One thing to point out is that if you are looking at "is it possible
> to wear a gown (since it is considerably warmer where the modern
> wearer is than it was in the places the modern wearer wants to
> emulate) which is unfurred (so "I" don't have heat stroke or have to
> hock something to be able to afford it)?" vs "What is the most common
> lining fabric of this period?" you are going to come up with different
> information.

True. In my case, my focus is generally on "what did they do?" whereas
"How can I adapt this?" is a more practical question I don't routinely
find myself dealing with (unlike most of the people on this list!). I
figure that those who do reproductions will end up deciding how best to
apply the historical information to their own
circumstances/needs/scenarios/materials.

> Just opening _The Wardrobe Accounts of King Edward the Fourth_ (who is
> admittedly English) I found "a demy gown of grene velvet and a gowne
> of grene damash, bothe gownes lyned with blac satin..." with only a
> quick flip through. Edward is 1480. (This is a man's inventory, by the
> way.)

I don't think I've seen that book ... a little later than my focus, so it
might not have registered for me, but it would probably be a useful
addition to my collection. Can you tell me more?

I have the Henry VIII inventory (vol. 1, the transcript), and I'm
seriously thinking of selling it. I have rarely opened it (not my period
at all), and I could really use the cash. It's out of print, and I'm
seeing online copies listed ranging from $150-$285. Interestingly, I also
see a listing for Vol. 2 (essays and illustrations) which I haven't seen
even at conferences; it's selling for over $300 at one Oxford bookstore.

> In the Privy Purse Expenses of Elizabeth of York (1502, but again
> English) there are numerous mentions of payments "Itm for lynyng of a
> gowne of black velvet for the Quenes grace.." to the tailor
> (taillour). However, it seems that when a "gowne" is even repairing
> fur, it goes to the furrier (well, actually a "skynner"). For example
> "to John Hayward skynner for furring of a gown of crysyn velvet for
> the Quene of Scottes and for two synnes of pampelyon for the cuffes of
> the same gown.." So, it seems that at least in her books, if it is
> lined with fabric it goes "to be lyned" to the taillor and if with fur
> it goes "to be furred" by a skynner. (These are not as easy to parse
> out as the inventories because you have to pick out the clothing bits
> from the expenses for the servant to take the garments to be repaired,
> the "bucckes" and "woodcocks" delivered at the same time by others,
> etc.)

Veale talks about the division of labor; sometimes tailors put in the fur
linings, but generally that was the skinner's job. The skinner might also
be responsible for cleaning and repairing furred garments. These roles
varied by place and time; depending on when and where, the skinner might
be someone who did the actual treating and assembling of skins, or someone
who imported skins, or someone who sold finished skins that were processed
and assembled by jobbers -- or any step in between. Her summary is based
on legal documents, guild records, wardrobe expenditures, etc. and gives
some really telling glimpses of who did what work when.

> But the main point is that even if there is a shift from mostly furred
> to rarely furred (which probably happens in the second half of the
> 16th C especially, even from my reading), there were still plenty of
> unfurred garments around. (It seems to me that as the furred garments
> segue into fabric lined, so do the trained dresses segue into
> untrained "round gowns".)

In case it wasn't clear -- and I'm realizing it wasn't -- I was never
saying there weren't unfurred garments in any of the periods we've been
discussing. My cautions were mostly to warn people against making
simplistic assumptions (e.g. because it appears here and there it must be
common, or because it's done on certain styles it would be done on all
styles) or applying data from too distant a place/time (as fur usage was
undergoing dramatic change at this point).

I think it's important also to have a sense of what's typical, and of the
proportion of garments that were unfurred. It's often the case that a
construction develops around the use of certain materials, and thus the
standard approaches in place will have different effects when the
materials are changed. (For instance, I remember reading about some 17th
c. early knitted garments that were assembled exactly as the established
sewn versions would be, even though those constructions were not an
intuitive or ideal method for handling knitted fabric.) So it may be that
if a gown style is normally furred, then doing it unfurred would have
raised problems or issues at the time, which would then have had to be
solved. So getting bodice puckers for an unfurred gown might not mean
you're doing it wrong; you might be recreating a period dilemma that
required period workarounds that would be seen as such because the
standard construction was designed for furred garments.

> I think I'd like to find a copy of Veale at some point. It sounds like
> good stuff.

Yes indeed -- a surprisingly good read.

--Robin

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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 15th/16th cent. Transition Gown
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Robin noted:

>In addition to the various things people have already mentioned, I'd class
>the brocade hem band in illus. #2 as a "fantasy figure" element. I don't
>think I've seen that touch on "normal" clothing. Elaborated hems
>(goldwork, jewels) do pop up on saints, mythological characters, angels,
>and sometimes historical royalty.

Or, as I recall you saying, "people who don't have to worry about getting their hems dirty!" <g>

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|  <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
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Cynthia Virtue wrote:
>> http://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/sca/15th/ainsworthgdp75.jpg
> This one has a tower on her hat, which means it's almost certainly, um, 
> Barbara?  That's her "attribute," otherwise known as "medieval closed 
> captioning."  I am confident in saying that regular women didn't wear 
> towers on their hats like that.  It's somewhat subtle, though, for a Saint!

Yes, isn;t that nice? He uses it again, though he gives her a different 
gown:
http://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/sca/15th/campbellp147a.jpg
but in this one he seats her in front of a great big tower, so it's not 
at all subtle:
http://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/sca/15th/campbellp147.jpg

hmmm...I have to get a better copy of this one. Mary Magdalen seems to 
be wearing a wrap front dress...

- Hope

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Subject: [h-cost] 15th Cent. Short sleeve mid-sleeve gown
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I asked about the strange mid-sleeve:
>>This variation shows up in several places:
>>http://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/sca/15th/ainsworthgdp123.jpg
>>http://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/sca/15th/ainsworthgdp75.jpg
>>
>>These are by Gerard David. I haven't collected very many images of this 
>>style. Has anyone noticed if they are associated with "saints-wear" or 
>>gowns that would not be worn by real people?


Decided to take a cruise through the Web Gallery of Art and see what I 
could turn up. It turned out rather long, so rather than list it all 
here, I've thrown it in a web page
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/15th/15thshort.html

I want to get more examples, but so far the conclusion seems to be 
"don't rush out and make one of these unless you are doing 15th century 
exotica."

- Hope (who is into some serious work-denial this morning...and now back 
to syllabus writing, oy!)

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Subject: [h-cost] More weird hats
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I don't remember if this has come up here or on the milliners list 
(probably both), but my morning's search for 15th century short sleeve 
gowns turned up two interesting hats that look rather like the Rogier 
van der Weyden wrap hat 
(http://www.kfki.hu/%7Earthp/art/w/weyden/rogier/10braque/3braque.jpg). 
For your pleasure and delectation, I've added them to the 15th century 
gown page at http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/15th/
Down near the bottom, look for Hugo van der Goes and Viet Stoos. Or you 
can get them directly here:
http://www.kfki.hu/%7Earthp/art/g/goes/small2.jpg
http://www.kfki.hu/%7Earthp/art/s/stoss/2closed/3bmary.jpg

- Hope

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Subject: [h-cost] 17th century mailing list
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Greetings,

I'm pleased to be able to announce the formation of a 17th century
living history mailing list.  My previous researches turned up no
general-purpose list for this subject, so I got together with Kass
McGann and we created one.

The blurb for the list is as follows:

    This list is focussed on the discussion of European and
    European-colonial 17th century life and culture as it pertains to
    living history, re-enactment, and other such historical activities.

    There are many organizations which portray the 17th century,
    including English Civil War groups, American colonial, and a range
    of groups set in various parts of Europe. Many of them have a
    military focus, and hence many of the mailing lists which discuss
    the 17th century discuss primarily military matters - pike drill,
    muskets, uniforms, and so on.

    This mailing list is different in that it provides a forum for
    discussion of non-military matters such as civilian life, clothing,
    food and drink, music and dance, art and culture, and other matters
    pertaining to the accurate portrayal of people living in the 17th
    century. 

So in short, a general purpose 17th century discussion list.  Clothing,
culture, politics, food and drink, you name it.

Anyone who's interested may subscribe at the following address:
http://reconstructinghistory.com/mailman/listinfo/17thcentury_reconstructinghistory.com

K.

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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Folkwear chinese jacket
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 11:27:13 -0700
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Yeah!  While in China I bought my good friend some special silk to make this
jacket out of.  We were going to do a test in linen first, but do let us
know if you have any comments on the pattern!

Thanks 
Saragrace

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of J.A.Urbik
Sent: Monday, January 12, 2004 1:44 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Folkwear chinese jacket

this is just a YIPPY post.  i don't know if you all remember that I had 
lost the pattern to the folkware patterns that i had bought.  well, even 
thougnh I haven't had a chance to get copies from the library of books 
mentioned and i know know that there are perhaps more period (for what i 
am aiming at--will use this advise on the next round, in a couple of 
months-after i get the projects planed out).

anyway, i found the pattern!!! in had been shoved into my "pantry" 
shelves in the basement, not the "sewing" shelves.   just found it 
yesterday.

jordana



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E House wrote:
> By the way, 2nd painting, left sleeve? It flips up, then back down again;
> the sleeves are longer on the outside than under the armpit. A couple years
> back I spent hours staring at it before I figured that out, so just in case
> you get stuck there too, there you go. Also, note the seams on her bodice!

re: http://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/sca/15th/ainsworthgdp75b.jpg
I have a pretty large edition of the top portion of this gown but it 
might not be clear enough. I don't see any seams. There's the front 
opening (and the trim is split at the center front as well) and the 
pattern on the inside of the turned up sleeve is pretty clear. Are there 
visible seams?

- Hope

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mongolian Dells
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<snip>

> The 
> way I understand it, broadly stated, earlier Mongol costume looked much like 
> this:
> 
> http://www.indiana.edu/~librcsd/etext/tilke/plate/102.jpg
> or
> http://www.indiana.edu/~librcsd/etext/tilke/plate/104.jpg
> 

Would these be for women or men? 

I have this to-die-for gold-colored brocade with Chinese dragons in roundel that I got at the Denver Fabric Annex about a year ago. I looked at it and said, "Mongolian!!", but have been having trouble finding pictorial resources that are pre-1600. I appreciate the links posted so far; if there're any more, it'd make me very happy....


Melanie
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Mongolia: Legacy of Genghis Khan exhibit
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 18:59:01 +0000
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I saw this exhibit when it was in Denver. It was my first up close and personal look at Chinese garments, and when I saw that gold fabric, *that's* what I wanted to make. Sadly, I didn't buy the exhibit catalogue then. I wonder if the gift shop still has copies.... Amazon shows the hardcover at $72.99. *yikes!*

Eirene
> Mongolia: The Legacy of Chinggis Khan, by Patricia Berger and Terese Tse
> Bartholomew.  1995: Asian Art Museum of San Francisco.  This was a catalogue
> for
> the exhibit that also was mounted at the National Geographic Society in
> Washington.  CSA members got to tour the exhibit with the ambassador from
> Mongolia
> and his family.  It was great!
> 
> Ann Wass
> 
> 	- I too was on the National Geographic CSA tour - it was my first CSA
> event!
> 
> 	- Sorry for the one-liner, but it's a happy memory - the ambassador's 
> wife
> blew me away with her descriptions of WHY Mongolian clothing is made the way
> it is.
> 
> 	- Allison T.
> 
> _______________________________________________
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kat@grendal.rain.com wrote:
> (It seems to me that as the furred 
> garments segue into fabric lined, so do the trained dresses segue 
> into untrained "round gowns".)

That's an interesting idea--as if all the inner technology of clothing, 
support systems, upper and lower body, etc.--are being reexamined with 
an eye to breaking them into functional component parts. (Hope, what are 
you talking about!?) OK, I mean, foundation become their own garments 
(corsets, farthingales, etc.) while gowns become upper and lower halves, 
joined or not...

- Hope

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I wanted to send a reminder that we still have openings for Juanita Leisch's
class about Civil War Women's clothing at www.costumeclassroom.com .  The
last day I can accept registrations is Sunday.

Sunday is also the last day to enroll in Franchesca Havas' Elizabethan
Glovemaking class.

Marna Jean's Restoring Parasols class for the January session is full.  But
she still has some openings for her March session.  If you want to take this
class register early.  The January session filled up quickly.  Marna Jean
made the parasols for the film Cold Mountain.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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Robin Netherton wrote:
  I do better with hooks but lacing rings still
>>have me stumped. Any tricks?
> 
> Um, line it with fur? ;-)

:-) The only fur I have on hand is an ancient mink coat, mostly intact, 
that I picked up for free at a local barn sale. Mink just isn't quite 
right... not to mention I don't actually complete enough gowns to want 
to spend time making something I won't be able to wear indoors!

 > Seriously, if fur is out of reach, then something else with the same
 > properties might help. Perhaps a layer of very thin leather, maybe
 > chamois, on the inside of the bodice?

Noe there's an intesting idea.

 > I think that the general dismal failure of most 15th-c. reproductions
 > to replicate the drape, line, and fold patterns of medieval art lies
 > in the lack of fur linings.

Hear! Hear! Like wearing gowns without the proper undergarments--it just 
doesn't work.

- Hope

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Subject: [h-cost] Tailoring revolution
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Hey Hope...

I was wondering when someone would make this connection.  <grin>  This is 
my favorite aspect of clothing research.  Most of what little is published 
on it is under the heading "Tailoring Revolution."   It's a fascinating 
corner of historical clothing.  Technically, in English resources, it 
stretches from pre-tudor,  to post-medieval times...  usually just past 
Elizabethan.

Bridgette

>That's an interesting idea--as if all the inner technology of clothing, 
>support systems, upper and lower body, etc.--are being reexamined with an 
>eye to breaking them into functional component parts. (Hope, what are you 
>talking about!?) OK, I mean, foundation become their own garments 
>(corsets, farthingales, etc.) while gowns become upper and lower halves, 
>joined or not...
>
>- Hope

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Subject: [h-cost] Other sleeve dilemma
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OK, one more question, then I promise I'll stop nattering on! I think 
I've asked this before but don't recall a definitive answer.

According to recent practice, a 15th cent. short sleeve undergown can 
have a pin on sleeve. This sleeve appears in two contexts:
1) as a protective oversleeve in working women's clothing (where the 
undergown is actually worn as a gown, ex: 
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/work/mldacosta04a.jpg) or
2) as a decorative oversleeve that would show under an overgown (ex. 
http://www.kfki.hu/%7Earthp/art/w/weyden/rogier/10braque/3braque.jpg)

The question, or rather two:
1) In paintings, is the decorative oversleeve always associated with 
Mary Magdalen?
2) Is there non-pictorial evidence of this type of sleeve use in the 
15th cent. in Northern Europe? (I know false sleeves become common in 
the 16th and that the Italians--and even the Spanish--seem to be tying 
and untying bits and pieces onto themselves in many time periods!)

I'm just wondering about the 20th/21st history of this particular 
practice. Certainly, it seems reasonable, but reasonable and actual are 
not always related in fashion!

- Hope

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Penny Ladnier wrote:

> I wanted to send a reminder that we still have openings for Juanita Leisch's
> class about Civil War Women's clothing at www.costumeclassroom.com .  The
> last day I can accept registrations is Sunday.
> 

How does an online class work? I've never seen one of these in action.



Dawn



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 15th/16th cent. Transition Gown
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Some of the high quality 'fabulous fake furs' can work really nicely,too. They are'nt cheap though.I used a faux black fur that came out looking wonderful on the lining of a black ,gray and purple brocade for a burgundian. The skirt draped in luxurious folds around me . I was very happy with it. 
Albra 

Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu> wrote:


Robin Netherton wrote:
I do better with hooks but lacing rings still
>>have me stumped. Any tricks?
> 
> Um, line it with fur? ;-)

:-) The only fur I have on hand is an ancient mink coat, mostly intact, 
that I picked up for free at a local barn sale. Mink just isn't quite 
right... not to mention I don't actually complete enough gowns to want 
to spend time making something I won't be able to wear indoors!

> Seriously, if fur is out of reach, then something else with the same
> properties might help. Perhaps a layer of very thin leather, maybe
> chamois, on the inside of the bodice?

Noe there's an intesting idea.

> I think that the general dismal failure of most 15th-c. reproductions
> to replicate the drape, line, and fold patterns of medieval art lies
> in the lack of fur linings.

Hear! Hear! Like wearing gowns without the proper undergarments--it just 
doesn't work.

- Hope

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Hope wrote:

> >That's an interesting idea--as if all the inner technology of clothing, 
> >support systems, upper and lower body, etc.--are being reexamined with an 
> >eye to breaking them into functional component parts. (Hope, what are you 
> >talking about!?) OK, I mean, foundation become their own garments 
> >(corsets, farthingales, etc.) while gowns become upper and lower halves, 
> >joined or not...

:-) Were you grinning in the back of the room when I covered this in the
GFD talk in Boston? (Toward the end, where I talk about the chain of
events following from the foundation dress to the corset and modern
tailoring techniques.)

On Tue, 13 Jan 2004, M Stewart wrote:

> I was wondering when someone would make this connection.  <grin> This
> is my favorite aspect of clothing research.  Most of what little is
> published on it is under the heading "Tailoring Revolution."  It's a
> fascinating corner of historical clothing.  Technically, in English
> resources, it stretches from pre-tudor, to post-medieval times...  
> usually just past Elizabethan.

Do you have any particular readings you'd recommend? I haven't heard the
term "tailoring revolution" in any formal context.

--Robin

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At 07:33 AM 1/13/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>Ya- I made a little kit with thread, needle, folding scissors, piece of
>dowel about 1 inch long, beads and floss that fit into an Altoids tin
>and it just rode in the purse, so whenever I had a couple of minutes I
>would do another button.
>Many moons ago, but I still remember having it handy when I went to Jury
>duty; talk about multi-tasking!
>Betsy


Hi Betsy

I read the instructions last night, but I don't recall seeing a dowel as 
one of the needed items. What did you use the 1" dowel for?

And I have bits and pieces of time while with my son, so I am hoping to 
have a little carryall with the projects inside to work on the buttons as 
time allows. I've been doing my blackwork embroidery in the same manner, 
and boy that really has helped move it along.

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

Costume Mistress for Isle of Mann Guild
Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
http://www.costumegallery.com 

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Robin Netherton wrote:

> :-) Were you grinning in the back of the room when I covered this in the
> GFD talk in Boston? (Toward the end, where I talk about the chain of
> events following from the foundation dress to the corset and modern
> tailoring techniques.)

Was the GFD talk the first one of the day? That was the one I missed due 
to traffic...darn!

But seriously, that particular change in fashion is one of the most 
interesting as you well know! More interesting perhps than that other 
"constant" in the mutability of clothing--the inside out, front to back 
movement, i.e. the morphing of underlayers to overlayers and back again.

- Hope

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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 15th/16th cent. Transition Gown
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>
> That's an interesting idea--as if all the inner technology of clothing,
> support systems, upper and lower body, etc.--are being reexamined with
> an eye to breaking them into functional component parts. (Hope, what are
> you talking about!?) OK, I mean, foundation become their own garments
> (corsets, farthingales, etc.) while gowns become upper and lower halves,
> joined or not...

Very interesting field of study. I had a chance to examine a couple of
gowns in Bath, a couple of years back, one a gown from the 1780s, one a
round gown from the very late 1790s. Both were typical of their time
period and type in their silhouette, but when I examined the construction
I found that the same construction techniques (shoulder seam placement,
sleeve shaping & attachment, stitching down pleats in the back section)
had been used for both. The techniques familiar to existing mantuamakers
had been re-used to create a gown with a completely different shape.


Drea
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hey folks...

         Yeah,  the first thing that pops to mind is an essay in "The Age 
of Transition:  The Archeology of English Culture 1400 - 1600"  The essay 
is by Kay Staniland and is titled  "Getting There, Got It:  archeological 
textiles and tailoring in London, 1330 - 1580"

In her bib she referrs to Cunnington and de Alcega among others.

Bridgette  /  Mari


> > I was wondering when someone would make this connection.  <grin> This
> > is my favorite aspect of clothing research.  Most of what little is
> > published on it is under the heading "Tailoring Revolution."  It's a
> > fascinating corner of historical clothing.  Technically, in English
> > resources, it stretches from pre-tudor, to post-medieval times...
> > usually just past Elizabethan.
>
>Do you have any particular readings you'd recommend? I haven't heard the
>term "tailoring revolution" in any formal context.
>
>--Robin



Mari Stewart,  Cornell University, Ithaca, NY 

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Hi guys

We all wish we had teachers like the woman I met recently.   She 
teaches Middle School English in San Marino (near Pasadena, for the 
rest of you who are wondering), and I'm sure she inspires her kids to 
no end!

She mentioned to me that she is looking for someone to come into her 
class to show costumes that would be appropriate for the plays the 
kids are studying.   If you would like to do a Good Deed, inspire 
some kids, and maybe change a life, please please contact her:

Karen Tezak     tezak@comcast.net

Karen says:
>  Right now the students are researching the history of theater (Greek, Roman,
>Italian Renaissance, Elizabethan and Asian.)   Each group will 
>create a toy theater,create a play and perform it.  They might use a 
>Greek myth or fairy tale for their play, or write an original play.
>
>We will be reading Macbeth after they have completed this project.

I wish *I* could do this, but I don't really have the stuff she 
needs.   But I'm sure YOU guys do.   I'm hoping one of you has some 
wonderful Elizabethan stuff to show, and maybe some experience in 
presenting info in schools.

Anyway, I'm putting it out there....

Thanks!

Rima


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Hello everyone,
 
Someone gave me Patterns of Fashion for Christmas, and no sooner do I go flashing the yummy stuff hiding in there than someone commissions me to make one. Not that I am complaining. ;-) This is all great and well, but I have three problems:
 
1. budget - it has to be somewhere in the realm of reality, so limiting any labour costs for him I can, the better.
2. It's German. I have never done German. This stuff is nuttier than Italian by a long shot!
3. It's Men's wear. I do very little men's wear, and thus not overly familiar with how these straight-lined critters fit their clothing.
 
Any patterns out there for undergarments that are usable for this suit, and even better, are there any patterns out there that comes remotely close that I can use?
 
Any ideas would be deeply appreciated.
 
Kathy



---------------------------------
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Subject: [h-cost] Royal Ontario Museum patterns
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Hi all,

I just found (and bought) a scaled pattern for three 18th c. dresses made by
the Royal Ontario Museum on ebay
(http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2881380193&category=4856
0&rd=1), and of course as I hadn't heard of these before, I have to know
more!

Does anyone know what other patterns they released, and any suggestions
(beyond ebay) for tracking them down?  I searched the web for a few hours
but didn't find anything beyond a brief mention in the h-costume archives.
(Anyone have one they want to sell?)

Thanks!

- Kendra
http://demode.tweedlebop.com

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 15th/16th cent. Transition Gown
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 23:00:36 -0500
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On Tuesday 13 January 2004 12:32 pm, Robin Netherton wrote:
> On Mon, 12 Jan 2004 kat@grendal.rain.com wrote:

> > I think I'd like to find a copy of Veale at some point. It sounds like
> > good stuff.
>
> Yes indeed -- a surprisingly good read.

Try www.addall.com.  I located two copies that way several months ago.  I 
would have bought one, except that I don't do 14th-15th c so it hasn't made 
it that far up my "wants" list.  :-)

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Anything's within walking distance if you have the time." -Steven Wright
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Subject: [h-cost] Fabric shopping in Philly
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A bunch of us are heading up to Philadelphia on Monday to fabric shop.

While I am familiar with the 4th Street fabric stores, I know there are 
others in the city. Can someone give me information on other fabric stores in the 
area?

Thanks.
Kathleen Norvell
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric shopping in Philly
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ooo!  you simply MUST go to Jo-Mar fabrics!  Another h-costumer recommended
this place to me about a year or so ago, and it's amazing.  Huge fabric
warehouse with rock bottom prices, plus a huge sale in January (you may be
just in time)!

I bought yards and yards and yards of wool and silk fabric for something
like $200 -- enough to fill a box and ship home.

This is what I saved from previous posts -- others on the list may have
better directions:

> I and Venango Streets (that's the letter "I") in the Kensington section of
Philadelphia (just off of the Allegheny exit on I-95)

> I don't know Philly well at all, but when I come off of I95, I take the
exit for Bath/Alleghany (it's new exit 25), and turn onto Westmoreland St at
the bottom of the ramp (mind you, I'm coming from the south). If you take
Westmoreland,
through all the stop signs and stop lights, It makes a soft Right turn
underneath the elevated subway (you know your
there when you see a support column in the middle of the street) and becomes
I St. Then it's just a couple of blocks
up from there on the Right hand side: building with JOMAR in big black
letters.

Have fun!

- Kendra

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Subject: [h-cost] looking for tailor's hair canvas
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Hi all again.

While working on the doublet, I have found that I am short on the last bit 
of tailor's interfacing I have. It was something I bought at my local 
Hancocks a few years ago, so I went back to get some more, and no dice, 
they no longer have it in stock, and aren't sure when if ever they will get 
more. Apparently they are carrying more and more fusible stuff or 
stabilizers by the bolt, but the good old fashion non-fusible interfacings 
are disappearing, or so it seems to me and the lady I spoke with.

The stuff I have is a 26" wide natural colored hair canvas, with a 1.5" red 
band along the selvedge edges. I know it contained wool and goat's hair, 
and a bit of other fibers. It was washable and dry cleanable. I don't know 
what it is called, so I can't google it.

I found a Greenburg and Hammer's online catalog of tailor's interfacings 
and hair canvases, but I don't see this particular one there. The one I 
have is a nice weight for what I use it for, mostly doublets and such, but 
I don't know what it weighed so I could compare it to something new. I know 
I didn't pay a lot per yard for it, and I am seeing that many of the Hymo 
is pretty expensive.

Any ideas on what I had, or what is comparable to purchase now? Should I 
use a 5 or 7 oz linen instead for the interlinings? I will not use a 
fusible, as I dislike how they react over time with the doublet I make.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, as I will need to deal with 
the interlining soon.

Kimiko
Kimiko Small
Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

Costume Mistress for Isle of Mann Guild
Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
http://www.costumegallery.com 

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> > 30 JOOS van Cleve: Portrait of Agniete van den Rijne - the much later
> > gown that clearly shows the undergown layers
> > http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/art/j/joos/cleve/portrai2.jpg
>
> And this undergown isn't shaped at all like the "filler" pieces we've been
> looking at.

	Yes, what is going on there?  Smock, underdress, ?????, and
overgown.  Very similar to the painting identified as Catherine of Aragon
by Michael Sittow at http://tudorhistory.org/aragon/youngcatherine.jpg
English again, not Flemish.

	Perhaps that one should not be taken at face value.  I have a
print copy which is much clearer and she has a halo and the blobs around
the neckline of the "filler" are scallops (pilgrim allusion?).  In the
print the overgown is dark brown and the filler is black.

	Thinking out loud--might there be some possibility that the black
layer is some type of foundation which gives the smooth front silhouette?
On the other hand, if so, putting it over the colored undergown doesn't
quite fit in.

annora

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric shopping in Philly
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You have to go to JoMar at 3525 I Street- a factory building filled with
fabric (wool, silk, linen), designer bolt ends and legendary dollar tables.
You can't miss it.  We used to do several road trips a year.
              -Helen/Aidan


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Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 23:36:33 -0800
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Uppsala Cathedral Sture men's garments
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Status: RO

Hi Kathy,

I recently did my first German outfit, and the best advice I followed was 
to join the GermanRenCostume mail list at yahoogroups 
(http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GermanRenCostume/). They focus on German 
costuming, and have a wealth of information in their archives, not to 
mention many wonderful people with lots of info to share. Some of them are 
also on this list as well.

I recall them speaking of the few costume patterns available for Germans, 
but I don't remember what their opinions were on which ones were any good.

One men's pattern is the "German Puff and Slash Man", which I found at 
http://www.patternsoftime.com/cat47.html, doing a google search. I am sure 
there are other stores that carry this pattern, as I know Alteryears does. 
I have no idea if it is a good pattern, or not.

On your other questions:
"1. budget - it has to be somewhere in the realm of reality, so limiting 
any labour costs for him I can, the better."
I saved the gentleman some money on his waffenrock by having a mutual 
friend of ours assist me with the skirt, which she used as a practice run 
for her own skirt. She had decided to do the difficult circular skirt with 
"organ" pleat that is sewn down. They both were happy with the results, and 
the lower cost. However, the sleeves... now that is where I used up a lot 
of time doing practice mockups of the elaborate sleeves he wanted. It's the 
puff and slash and padding that has gone haywire that had me pulling hairs. 
I warned my client ahead of time that those would take time, and hence 
money to do. I did manage to make it under expected budget, so he was 
happy. Be willing to practice first, and try to find already made garments 
that you can inspect, to see how others have done that funky German style.

Good luck, and have fun with it. German costumes can be very colorful and 
is very different from ... say the stiff and staid English.

Kimiko
(back to that English doublet)


At 09:39 PM 1/13/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Hello everyone,
>
>Someone gave me Patterns of Fashion for Christmas, and no sooner do I go 
>flashing the yummy stuff hiding in there than someone commissions me to 
>make one. Not that I am complaining. ;-) This is all great and well, but I 
>have three problems:
>
>1. budget - it has to be somewhere in the realm of reality, so limiting 
>any labour costs for him I can, the better.
>2. It's German. I have never done German. This stuff is nuttier than 
>Italian by a long shot!
>3. It's Men's wear. I do very little men's wear, and thus not overly 
>familiar with how these straight-lined critters fit their clothing.
>
>Any patterns out there for undergarments that are usable for this suit, 
>and even better, are there any patterns out there that comes remotely 
>close that I can use?
>
>Any ideas would be deeply appreciated.
>
>Kathy



Kimiko Small
Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

Costume Mistress for Isle of Mann Guild
Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
http://www.costumegallery.com 

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Marquesate?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Royal Ontario Museum patterns
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Sorry, can't help you wit finding those patterns, but I do have to say that
those gowns are in Janet Arnold, thus I wonder why they re-did them?

Nicole

 --- Kendra Van Cleave <kendra@tweedlebop.com> wrote: > Hi all,
> 
> I just found (and bought) a scaled pattern for three 18th c. dresses made by
> the Royal Ontario Museum on ebay
> (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2881380193&category=4856
> 0&rd=1), and of course as I hadn't heard of these before, I have to know
> more!
> 
> Does anyone know what other patterns they released, and any suggestions
> (beyond ebay) for tracking them down?  I searched the web for a few hours
> but didn't find anything beyond a brief mention in the h-costume archives.
> (Anyone have one they want to sell?)
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> - Kendra
> http://demode.tweedlebop.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costumeme@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

=====
Email: nicole@kipar.org
Website: http://www.kipar.org

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Miser's purses or other beaded purse patterns
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>Has anyone come across any online patterns for these type of purses please ?

Mine are all on paper.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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On Tue, 13 Jan 2004, Kathy Page wrote:
> 2. It's German. I have never done German. This stuff is nuttier than
> Italian by a long shot! 

Actually, the Sture garments are Swedish. :) They've been discussed on
the historiska.se web board, and one interesting thing I learned is that
one of the Sture pluderhosen were built on a foundation of suede
deerskin pants/trousers (I'm unsure of the correct terminology for that
layer...). These are not mentioned in Arnold but have been displayed in
Livrustkammaren in Stockholm).

>  Any patterns out there for undergarments that are usable for this
> suit, and even better, are there any patterns out there that comes
> remotely close that I can use?

Apparently Anna-Maja Nylén has written a book (in Swedish) about the
Sture shirts, "Stureskjortorna", but since I've been unable to find it I
don't know how useful it is. Here's an online pattern that's based on
an extant English shirt from the late 16th century:
http://home.earthlink.net/~magdlena/shirt/index.html

Ingrid

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On Tue, 13 Jan 2004, Kathy Page wrote:
> 2. It's German. I have never done German. This stuff is nuttier than
> Italian by a long shot! 

Actually, the Sture garments are Swedish. :) They've been discussed on
the historiska.se web board, and one interesting thing I learned is that
one of the Sture pluderhosen were built on a foundation of suede
deerskin pants/trousers (I'm unsure of the correct terminology for that
layer...). These are not mentioned in Arnold but have been displayed in
Livrustkammaren in Stockholm).

>  Any patterns out there for undergarments that are usable for this
> suit, and even better, are there any patterns out there that comes
> remotely close that I can use?

Apparently Anna-Maja Nylén has written a book (in Swedish) about the
Sture shirts, "Stureskjortorna", but since I've been unable to find it I
don't know how useful it is. Here's an online pattern that's based on
an extant English shirt from the late 16th century:
http://home.earthlink.net/~magdlena/shirt/index.html

Ingrid

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References: <4.3.1.2.20040114002532.05a94310@mail.frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Miser's purses or other beaded purse patterns
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 09:39:23 -0000
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>Mine are all on paper.

where did you get them ?

Mel

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Helen Pinto wrote:
> You have to go to JoMar at 3525 I Street- a factory building filled with
> fabric (wool, silk, linen), designer bolt ends and legendary dollar tables.
> You can't miss it.  We used to do several road trips a year.

IIRC, the first floor is all clothing and such; the fabric is on a 
different floor.  They have satellite locations as well.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

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And then -- "What might 'really' have happened?"  -- David Brin
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 15th/16th cent. Transition Gown
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annora wrote:

> 	Perhaps that one should not be taken at face value.  I have a
> print copy which is much clearer and she has a halo and the blobs around
> the neckline of the "filler" are scallops (pilgrim allusion?).  In the
> print the overgown is dark brown and the filler is black.

I have a couple pics of this image:
Full picture:
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/aragon.jpg
Bodice detail:
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/aragon-detail.jpg
Bodice detail with contrast heightened so you can see the 
binding/trim/edge of the overgown:
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/aragon3.jpg

You're right about the scallops--they are the symbol of that wildly 
favorite medieval pilgrimage site, Santiago de Compostela. Catherine 
travelled there from southern Spain on the way to her marriage to Arthur 
in Britain.

 From this image it looks like the scallops trim the neckline of a 
front-closing undergown, which is covered by an overgown. In the detail 
image it appears that the overgown is covering just a bit of one of the 
shells, hence my belief that the shells are trim on the undergown. As we 
don;t see her lower arms it is impossible to tell whether the undergown 
has long sleeves. The overgown doesn't seem particularly snug and there 
is a suggestion of fullness in the overgown sleeves. I'm not sure if the 
bit of yellow you see at the center is something else, or a 
discoloration of the shift layer.

- Hope

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Rachel?= <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Uppsala Cathedral Sture men's garments
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Kathy,

There is in fact an article which details the pattern of the shirt worn by Nils Sture, and I have
made a copy of it.  It is a seriously simple pattern, as there isn't a curved line or angle in it
at all.  It is all rectangles and squares.  I'll try and dig the citation for the journal out for
you, unless someone beats me to it.

Rachel

 --- Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca> wrote: > Hello everyone,
>  
> Someone gave me Patterns of Fashion for Christmas, and no sooner do I go flashing the yummy
> stuff hiding in there than someone commissions me to make one. Not that I am complaining. ;-)
> This is all great and well, but I have three problems:
>  
> 1. budget - it has to be somewhere in the realm of reality, so limiting any labour costs for him
> I can, the better.
> 2. It's German. I have never done German. This stuff is nuttier than Italian by a long shot!
> 3. It's Men's wear. I do very little men's wear, and thus not overly familiar with how these
> straight-lined critters fit their clothing.
>  
> Any patterns out there for undergarments that are usable for this suit, and even better, are
> there any patterns out there that comes remotely close that I can use?
>  
> Any ideas would be deeply appreciated.
>  
> Kathy
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------
> Post your free ad now! Yahoo! Canada Personals
> _______________________________________________
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=====
Threads of History
www.threadsofhistory.co.uk

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: M Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Uppsala Cathedral Sture men's garments
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Whoa....  I would also love to have that citation....   Thank you 
Rachel.   Bridgette/Mari


>Kathy,
>
>There is in fact an article which details the pattern of the shirt worn by 
>Nils Sture, and I have
>made a copy of it.  It is a seriously simple pattern, as there isn't a 
>curved line or angle in it
>at all.  It is all rectangles and squares.  I'll try and dig the citation 
>for the journal out for
>you, unless someone beats me to it.
>
>Rachel




Mari Stewart
Cornell University


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Hi, Kimiko,

One of my favorite stores near the L.A. Fabric district is B. Black and Sons
on Los Angeles (West L.A.?) Street, just a few block out of the center of
the district. This amazing store is a tailors' supply store, one of the few
left on the West Coast. They have three floors of wools and wool blends and
just about everything you might need for tailoring. They have the
non-fusible interfacings like you're talking about, threads and 'things' you
didn't even know existed. I don't have their address or phone number here at
work but I know they have a website. They have the most incredible wools!

And when you go to L.A. for Costume College this year, make certain to
budget a couple of hours (and money) to get up there and shop. They've got a
bin of skirt-lengths for $1 per piece all the way up to $200+ per yard
cashmeres and other marvelous wools. And the more you buy, the better the
price is. And their idea of a yard! I asked for 7 yards of fabric and by the
time I got it home it turned out to be almost 8 - and the guy WAS using a
ruler. It's not really a place to haggle, but you'll definitely get a good
deal. They're friendly and really helpful. I go to LA only once a year but
Jose there remembers us each time and shakes our hands, asks about our kids.

I'm sure if you gave them a call, they could send to you what you need.

LynnD

On 1/13/04 10:43 PM, "Kimiko Small" <kimiko@kimiko1.com> wrote:

> Hi all again.
> 
> While working on the doublet, I have found that I am short on the last bit
> of tailor's interfacing I have. It was something I bought at my local
> Hancocks a few years ago, so I went back to get some more, and no dice,
> they no longer have it in stock, and aren't sure when if ever they will get
> more. Apparently they are carrying more and more fusible stuff or
> stabilizers by the bolt, but the good old fashion non-fusible interfacings
> are disappearing, or so it seems to me and the lady I spoke with.
> 
> The stuff I have is a 26" wide natural colored hair canvas, with a 1.5" red
> band along the selvedge edges. I know it contained wool and goat's hair,
> and a bit of other fibers. It was washable and dry cleanable. I don't know
> what it is called, so I can't google it.
> 
> I found a Greenburg and Hammer's online catalog of tailor's interfacings
> and hair canvases, but I don't see this particular one there. The one I
> have is a nice weight for what I use it for, mostly doublets and such, but
> I don't know what it weighed so I could compare it to something new. I know
> I didn't pay a lot per yard for it, and I am seeing that many of the Hymo
> is pretty expensive.
> 
> Any ideas on what I had, or what is comparable to purchase now? Should I
> use a 5 or 7 oz linen instead for the interlinings? I will not use a
> fusible, as I dislike how they react over time with the doublet I make.
> 
> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, as I will need to deal with
> the interlining soon.
> 
> Kimiko
> Kimiko Small
> Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
> "When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell
> 
> Costume Mistress for Isle of Mann Guild
> Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 09:08:43 -0800
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Royal Ontario Museum patterns
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> Sorry, can't help you wit finding those patterns, but I do have to say
> that those gowns are in Janet Arnold, thus I wonder why they re-did
> them?
> 
> Nicole

Perhaps because they were done differently than Janet Arnold (if you 
remember some of our recent discussions about errors in the patterns 
and the fact that they were not meant to be scaled up.)

These patterns are meant to be scaled up. They even come (at least 
mine did) with a transparent grid sheet for the purpose: one square 
equals 5cm and have directions (albeit brief ones) on how to do it.

I haven't pulled out the patterns and JA's books to compare them, but 
I suspect that there are differences since they weren't drafted by 
the same person (and perhaps not even by the same methods).

While I don't know what their full line of patterns is, I have 
another one from them which is "Pattern Diagrams for Three Nineteenth-
Century Dresses in the Royal Ontario Museum 1834-1843" which is the 
same sort of pattern (with the transparent grid sheet and all.)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>

>  --- Kendra Van Cleave <kendra@tweedlebop.com> wrote: > Hi all,
> > 
> > I just found (and bought) a scaled pattern for three 18th c. dresses
> > made by the Royal Ontario Museum on ebay
> > (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2881380193&categ
> > ory=4856 0&rd=1), and of course as I hadn't heard of these before, I
> > have to know more!
> > 
> > Does anyone know what other patterns they released, and any
> > suggestions (beyond ebay) for tracking them down?  I searched the
> > web for a few hours but didn't find anything beyond a brief mention
> > in the h-costume archives. (Anyone have one they want to sell?)
> > 
> > Thanks!
> > 
> > - Kendra
> > http://demode.tweedlebop.com
> > 
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costumeme@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
> 
> =====
> Email: nicole@kipar.org
> Website: http://www.kipar.org
> 
>  h-costume mailing list
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Subject: [h-cost] Patterns from Museums
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I am hoping someone here can help with this.

I have done a little conservation volunteering for a small museum here
in the midwest that has some very nice surviving costumes from the
latter half of the 19th century, also a couple of dynamite flapper
dresses.  The museum is always in need of funds (what one isn't) and I
was wondering about making patterns, and marketing the same, from some
of the costumes in the collection.  Anyone have any experience with
this, or recommend a company that does this?

Thanks,
Catherine
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> Should I
> use a 5 or 7 oz linen instead for the interlinings?
That's what I use, but I don't know how it will react with time, since I
haven't gotten around to wearing anything that long yet. But I dislike
fusible too, except when I'm doing machine embroidery or when I'm doing a
quick job, such as fixing necklines of tunics donated to Gold Key (SCA
costumes we use to clothes newbies who have nothing to wear). Not one of
them was sewn right, I had to take them all apart.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for tailor's hair canvas
From: ruthanne baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I'll emerge from lurking....
Have you tried Sew True, in New York's garment center? Their many
interfacings and tailoring supplies include "hair cloth" and a number of
other sew-ins. They have a very extensive catalog of tailoring supplies and
equipment and also a website, www.sewtrue.com. They advertise "prompt
efficient and courteous service" and certainly fulfilled all three pledges
when I placed a complicated rush order with them just before Thanksgiving.
Their phone is 1-800-S-E-W-T-R-U-E, and the phone is answered by someone who
knows the stock and can answer questions.

Ruth Anne Baumgartner
amateur costumer and scholar gypsy

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for tailor's hair canvas
From: Lynn Downward <LDownward@chori.org>
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Ruth Anne, thanks for the link. I rushed over there to see what they had and
requested a catalog. However, does anyone know what bustle buttons or bustle
thread is? I'm focused on 1887 right now and had never heard of these
things. And of course, there are no pictures of these two specific items.

LynnD

On 1/14/04 10:04 AM, "ruthanne baumgartner" <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
wrote:

> I'll emerge from lurking....
> Have you tried Sew True, in New York's garment center? Their many
> interfacings and tailoring supplies include "hair cloth" and a number of
> other sew-ins. They have a very extensive catalog of tailoring supplies and
> equipment and also a website, www.sewtrue.com. They advertise "prompt
> efficient and courteous service" and certainly fulfilled all three pledges
> when I placed a complicated rush order with them just before Thanksgiving.
> Their phone is 1-800-S-E-W-T-R-U-E, and the phone is answered by someone who
> knows the stock and can answer questions.
> 
> Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> amateur costumer and scholar gypsy
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: Angela Kessler <ivyharpdotcom@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] bustle buttons, thread (was: tailor's hair canvas)
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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--- Lynn Downward <LDownward@chori.org> wrote:
> However, does anyone know what
> bustle buttons or bustle
> thread is? I'm focused on 1887 right now and had
> never heard of these
> things. And of course, there are no pictures of
> these two specific items.
> 
> LynnD
> 

My guess is that they're not for recreating the bustle
period, but for modern bustles, which are most
commonly seen on wedding gowns when the bride bunches
up her train.  I'd be curious as to the shape of the
buttons, but I'd guess that the thread is heavy-duty,
as these few buttons have to support the weight of the
skirt train.

-Angela

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From: "Dawn Wood" <dawn@agesofelegance.co.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Uppsala Cathedral Sture men's garments
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 19:23:26 -0000
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> I made several of these shirts for the globe theatre a few years ago and
> have all the notes somewhere if I can find them
>
> Dawn
> Ages Of Elegance makers of historical clothing, uniforms and bridalwear
> http://www.agesofelegance.co.uk 0113 277 6716
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Rachel" <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2004 3:00 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Uppsala Cathedral Sture men's garments
>
>
> > Kathy,
> >
> > There is in fact an article which details the pattern of the shirt worn
by
> Nils Sture, and I have
> > made a copy of it.  It is a seriously simple pattern, as there isn't a
> curved line or angle in it
> > at all.  It is all rectangles and squares.  I'll try and dig the
citation
> for the journal out for
> > you, unless someone beats me to it.
> >
>


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Not quite on the "what did you get" topic, here are a couple titles that top my first of the year acquisitions. "Hats, History of Fashion in Headwear",Amphlett (Dover reprint.  Now that I have most of the pictures memorized as to their origins of the previous dictionary of historical headwear, here is another volume to put me to the seach.
"Whistler, Women, and Fashion" Mac Donald, Galassi, Ribeiro, and Montfort...year for the man and his influence on 19th C costume.  Pics are great and can't wait to attack the text.
"Couture Culture", Troy. Some what more of the same but from another angle.  Fewer pictures but lots of 'Theory" on 19th-20th C fashion.
And the gem of the day, "A Separate Sphere" dress-making in Cincinnati's Golden Age, 1977-1922, Amneus. Fabulous photos of real garments...With extended commentary of the crafters and artists of this time and place.

Now for time to READ!

Kathleen
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From: Penny Roberts <pennyrobertsho@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Uppsala Cathedral Sture men's garments
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Dawn Wood <dawn@agesofelegance.co.uk> wrote:


> I made several of these shirts for the globe theatre a few years ago and
> have all the notes somewhere if I can find them
>
> Dawn
> Ages Of Elegance makers of historical clothing, uniforms and bridalwear
> http://www.agesofelegance.co.uk 0113 277 6716
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Rachel" 
> To: "Historical Costume" 
> Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2004 3:00 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Uppsala Cathedral Sture men's garments
>
>
> > Kathy,
> >
> > There is in fact an article which details the pattern of the shirt worn
by
> Nils Sture, and I have
> > made a copy of it. It is a seriously simple pattern, as there isn't a
> curved line or angle in it
> > at all. It is all rectangles and squares. I'll try and dig the
citation
> for the journal out for
> > you, unless someone beats me to it.
> >
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] bustle buttons, thread (was: tailor's hair canvas)
From: Lynn Downward <LDownward@chori.org>
To: h costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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On 1/14/04 10:54 AM, "Angela Kessler" <ivyharpdotcom@yahoo.com> wrote:

> --- Lynn Downward <LDownward@chori.org> wrote:
>> However, does anyone know what
>> bustle buttons or bustle
>> thread is? I'm focused on 1887 right now and had
>> never heard of these
>> things. And of course, there are no pictures of
>> these two specific items.
>> 
>> LynnD
>> 
> 
> My guess is that they're not for recreating the bustle
> period, but for modern bustles, which are most
> commonly seen on wedding gowns when the bride bunches
> up her train.  I'd be curious as to the shape of the
> buttons, but I'd guess that the thread is heavy-duty,
> as these few buttons have to support the weight of the
> skirt train.
> 
> -Angela
> 
Of course, it's probably a strong button that will blend in to the dress and
the thread to hold up yards of bridal satin.

Duh.

All I can say in my own defense is that I've been focused on 1886-7 for the
past few weeks and just saw what I wanted to see. And of course, it confused
me.

LynnD

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From: "Joanna Hobbins" <jhobbi2@po-box.mcgill.ca>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Fw: [h-cost] Royal Ontario Museum patterns
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joanna Hobbins" <joanna.hobbins@mail.mcgill.ca>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2004 4:03 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Royal Ontario Museum patterns


> Unfortunately those two patterns are the only ones that Susan Barnwell
> authored.
>
> I did a quick search of their library catalogue for costume and got 16
> results.  They can be found at the bottom of this message.
>
> The ROM jointly publishes with the University of Toronto Press and the ROM
> catalogue can be accessed from the UofT library
> http://webcat.library.utoronto.ca/
> (under library select Royal Ontario Museuem Libraries).
>
> On another note I was browsing the shelves of my university library and
came
> across John Hunts Irish Medieval Figure Sculpture 1200-1600. A 2 volume
set
> that is a comprehensive survey of Irish sculpture.  Volume 2 is just
> photographs of the statues and there are nearly 350 plates.  Vol 1 is an
> analysis of the general styles and techniques through space and time as
well
> as a brief description of each individual stature complete with location.
>
> I'm quite excited, but I'm not allowed to look through it till after I
> finish my physics assignments :(.
>
> Joanna
>
> Books on COstume published by the ROM
>
>  Au Courant : contemporary Canadian fashion
>      Palmer, Alexandra, 1957-
>   Threads of time [videorecording] : handmade textiles for weddings in
Fez,
> Morocco
>      Mackie, Louise W
>   War paint : Blackfoot and Sarcee painted buffalo robes in the Royal
> Ontario Museum
>      Brownstone, Arni, 1947-
>   Mannequins for the Royal Ontario Museum costume gallery
>      Palmer, Alexandra, 1957-
>   Pattern diagrams for three eighteenth century dresses in the Royal
Ontario
> Museum
>      Barnwell, Susan
>   Pattern diagrams for three nineteenth-century dresses in the Royal
Ontario
> Museum, 1834-1843
>      Barnwell, Susan
>   In search of azure dragons : photographs of Chinese costume with
> accessories from the collections of the Royal Ontario Museum : [exhibition
> catalogue]
>      Royal Ontario Museum. Textiles Dept
>   In the presence of the Dragon Throne : Ch'ing dynasty costume
(1644-1911)
> in the Royal Ontario Museum
>      Royal Ontario Museum
>   Contemporary native art of Canada - the western subarctic : porcupine
> quillwork - moose hair tufting
>      Cohen, Robin, 1953 Oct. 25
>   Cut my cote
>      Burnham, Dorothy K
>   The Hungarian szür : an archaic mantle of Eurasian origin
>      Gervers, Veronika, 1939-1979
>   Modesty to mod : dress and underdress in Canada, 1780-1967
>      Brett, Katharine B
>   Costumes for Canada's birthday : the styles of 1867
>      Burnham, Dorothy K
>   Isho : Japanese costume under the Tokugawa shoguns : a premiere
exhibition
> of Japanese women's robes and accessories from the 17th to 19th centuries,
> lent by Mr. Shizuo Nomura
>      Royal Ontario Museum
>   Chinese court costumes
>      Royal Ontario Museum. Far Eastern Dept
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <kat@grendal.rain.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2004 12:08 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Royal Ontario Museum patterns
>
>
> >
> > > Sorry, can't help you wit finding those patterns, but I do have to say
> > > that those gowns are in Janet Arnold, thus I wonder why they re-did
> > > them?
> > >
> > > Nicole
> >
> > Perhaps because they were done differently than Janet Arnold (if you
> > remember some of our recent discussions about errors in the patterns
> > and the fact that they were not meant to be scaled up.)
> >
> > These patterns are meant to be scaled up. They even come (at least
> > mine did) with a transparent grid sheet for the purpose: one square
> > equals 5cm and have directions (albeit brief ones) on how to do it.
> >
> > I haven't pulled out the patterns and JA's books to compare them, but
> > I suspect that there are differences since they weren't drafted by
> > the same person (and perhaps not even by the same methods).
> >
> > While I don't know what their full line of patterns is, I have
> > another one from them which is "Pattern Diagrams for Three Nineteenth-
> > Century Dresses in the Royal Ontario Museum 1834-1843" which is the
> > same sort of pattern (with the transparent grid sheet and all.)
> >
> > Kat
>


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Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 13:57:28 -0800
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for tailor's hair canvas
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Status: RO

Hi LynnD,

Thanks so much about telling me what B. Black and Sons has. I knew I should 
have gone there last year, but they are on my first (and maybe only) stop 
for this upcoming year.

I found their website: http://www.bblackandsons.com/ . But their online 
sources don't explain the differences between the different Hymo, hair 
cloth, french collar canvas 100% linen (like how is that different than 
other linens). I may ask them if they can send me samples of the 
interfacings, and see what happens. In any case, I am going there my next 
trip down to LA. I have been saying it for too long every time I see the 
expensive wools at Hancocks, and see the B. Black and Sons logo on the bolts.

Thanks again!

Kimiko


At 09:02 AM 1/14/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>Hi, Kimiko,
>
>One of my favorite stores near the L.A. Fabric district is B. Black and Sons
>on Los Angeles (West L.A.?) Street, just a few block out of the center of
>the district. This amazing store is a tailors' supply store, one of the few
>left on the West Coast.




Kimiko Small
Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

Costume Mistress for Isle of Mann Guild
Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
http://www.costumegallery.com 

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jan 14 17:10:50 2004
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Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 14:08:57 -0800
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for tailor's hair canvas
From: Lynn Downward <LDownward@chori.org>
To: h costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

You're welcome, Kimiko.

Apologizing in advance for being so vague, but I seem to remember one of the
basic sewing websites, maybe Simplicity or Butterick, explaining
interfacings. I remember that Threads Magazine wrote a really good article
in the past two years on different types of interfacing and perhaps it is on
their website. Maybe even Armo has their own website and they can give you
explanations. I can't search for you today (I've avoided enough work for one
day already) but I'm sure you could find something on Google.

Best of luck,
(oh, and please pass to us any good websites you find)

LynnD

On 1/14/04 1:57 PM, "Kimiko Small" <kimiko@kimiko1.com> wrote:

> Hi LynnD,
> 
> Thanks so much about telling me what B. Black and Sons has. I knew I should
> have gone there last year, but they are on my first (and maybe only) stop
> for this upcoming year.
> 
> I found their website: http://www.bblackandsons.com/ . But their online
> sources don't explain the differences between the different Hymo, hair
> cloth, french collar canvas 100% linen (like how is that different than
> other linens). I may ask them if they can send me samples of the
> interfacings, and see what happens. In any case, I am going there my next
> trip down to LA. I have been saying it for too long every time I see the
> expensive wools at Hancocks, and see the B. Black and Sons logo on the bolts.
> 
> Thanks again!
> 
> Kimiko
> 
> 
> At 09:02 AM 1/14/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>> Hi, Kimiko,
>> 
>> One of my favorite stores near the L.A. Fabric district is B. Black and Sons
>> on Los Angeles (West L.A.?) Street, just a few block out of the center of
>> the district. This amazing store is a tailors' supply store, one of the few
>> left on the West Coast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kimiko Small
> Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
> "When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell
> 
> Costume Mistress for Isle of Mann Guild
> Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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At 12:44 PM 1/14/2004 -0500, you wrote:
> > Should I
> > use a 5 or 7 oz linen instead for the interlinings?
>That's what I use, but I don't know how it will react with time, since I
>haven't gotten around to wearing anything that long yet. But I dislike
>fusible too, except when I'm doing machine embroidery or when I'm doing a
>quick job, such as fixing necklines of tunics donated to Gold Key (SCA
>costumes we use to clothes newbies who have nothing to wear). Not one of
>them was sewn right, I had to take them all apart.


Hi!

I am thinking I will try the linen, as I have to line it in linen anyway. I 
have enough of the current hair interfacing that I should be able to use 
that just for the stiff collar, and interline the body in the heavier 
weight linen. I am hoping the doublet will be able to breathe easier, 
considering the hot summers, another reason to dislike the fusibles which 
around here aren't natural fibers.

And I have decidedly gotten pickier about the costumes I see as "hand me 
downs" and loaners, as too many of them are first costumes, so people 
haven't learned what they know now, and it sadly shows. But I guess it is 
better than wearing mundanes!  ;-)

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

Costume Mistress for Isle of Mann Guild
Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
http://www.costumegallery.com 

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From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for tailor's hair canvas
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At 01:04 PM 1/14/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>I'll emerge from lurking....
>Have you tried Sew True, in New York's garment center? Their many
>interfacings and tailoring supplies include "hair cloth" and a number of
>other sew-ins. They have a very extensive catalog of tailoring supplies and
>equipment and also a website, www.sewtrue.com. They advertise "prompt
>efficient and courteous service" and certainly fulfilled all three pledges
>when I placed a complicated rush order with them just before Thanksgiving.
>Their phone is 1-800-S-E-W-T-R-U-E, and the phone is answered by someone who
>knows the stock and can answer questions.
>
>Ruth Anne Baumgartner
>amateur costumer and scholar gypsy


Thanks Ruth for the suggestion. I hadn't looked at this before, but the 
interfacings they have listed are polyester blends, no wool or hair types. 
Our summers are very hot, so I am trying for more natural interlinings, 
such as linen, wool and goat hair.

ah, wait! They also have Hymo listed, separately. I will have to see what 
else they have, and may get a catalog as well. I will bookmark them for 
further explorations. And don't lurk so long. Your knowledge is welcome here.
:-)

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

Costume Mistress for Isle of Mann Guild
Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
http://www.costumegallery.com 

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At 04:07 PM 1/14/2004 -0500, you wrote:
> > On another note I was browsing the shelves of my university library and
>came
> > across John Hunts Irish Medieval Figure Sculpture 1200-1600. A 2 volume
>set
> > that is a comprehensive survey of Irish sculpture.  Volume 2 is just
> > photographs of the statues and there are nearly 350 plates.  Vol 1 is an
> > analysis of the general styles and techniques through space and time as
>well
> > as a brief description of each individual stature complete with location.
> >
> > I'm quite excited, but I'm not allowed to look through it till after I
> > finish my physics assignments :(.
> >
> > Joanna


Hi Joanna,

Please share with us your findings on the Irish Medieval sculptures books. 
It sounds very interesting, and I am very curious about the Irish.

Thanks!

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

Costume Mistress for Isle of Mann Guild
Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
http://www.costumegallery.com 

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Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 14:47:43 -0800
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns from Museums
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At 11:34 AM 1/14/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>Anyone have any experience with
>this, or recommend a company that does this?
>
>Thanks,
>Catherine


I don't know if anyone contacted you privately, or not, like Margo or Kass. 
However, in a book I just got, Pricing Without Fear, by Barbara Wright 
Sykes, there is something mentioned about McCalls being able to create 
patterns for small entrepreneurs. You have to contact them and get their 
kit, and follow it.

Their info as listed in the book is:
McCall's Pattern Company
615 McCall's Road
Manhattan, KS 66502
785-776-4041

If anyone has better info, please correct me or share their knowledge, please.

Good luck!

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

Costume Mistress for Isle of Mann Guild
Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
http://www.costumegallery.com 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Miser's purses or other beaded purse patterns
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> >Mine are all on paper.
>
>where did you get them ?

One is a page from the now defunct Old Time Needlework magazine.  The 
others are from a fragile old book of my grandmother's or from various 
modern historical needlework reprints.  I have a copy of Mrs. Pullam's and 
Mrs. (book not here, name escapes me) book, and one of some reprints of 
needlework from Godey's, each with several examples of beaded crochet 
purses.  My Mrs. Beeton's ought to have some too.  All these purses include 
the beads as you crochet.  The misers are all pretty much the same shape, 
differing only in the exact surface design of beads and different colours.

OTN magazine is so out of print that I ought to scan that page and post it 
on my web site.  (Maybe tomorrow when I have more time.)

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
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Kimiko wrote:
 
I saved the gentleman some money on his waffenrock by having a mutual friend of ours assist me with the skirt, which she used as a practice 
run for her own skirt. She had decided to do the difficult circular skirt 
with "organ" pleat that is sewn down. They both were happy with the results, and the lower cost. 
 
This won't help in my case I don't think, other than downloading labour onto him. There's not a lot of others that would be willing to tackle much of this around here. But it is a thought. I think there might be someone locally willing to give it a try for the sake of experience. Thanks for the thought though.
 
And I signed up to the German Ren group. Thanks for the link.
 

Ingrid wrote:

Actually, the Sture garments are Swedish. :) They've been discussed on
the historiska.se web board, and one interesting thing I learned is 
that one of the Sture pluderhosen were built on a foundation of suede
deerskin pants/trousers (I'm unsure of the correct terminology for that
layer...). These are not mentioned in Arnold but have been displayed in
Livrustkammaren in Stockholm).

Funny you mention that.... :-) I was talking about this new project with my Swedish friend and first thing he said was "those are Swedish names." Which totally confused me, and started wondering why on EARTH I thought they were German when they are Swede - wellll... Arnold doesn't ACTUALLY say where these men are from, and lump them in with the German Army drawings so it tends to lead one to believe they are German, not just sharing identical traits. 
Actually, my copy does mention that, it has all three in there, saying that the leather jerkin suit is considered the more "working man's" version of the costume.

Apparently Anna-Maja Nylén has written a book (in Swedish) about the
Sture shirts, "Stureskjortorna", but since I've been unable to find it.

Thanks for the link. I'll see if my friend can locate that book. Who knows, he may trip on something.

Rachel wrote: 


I'll try and dig the citation for the journal out for you, unless someone beats me to it.

Oh please do! that will eliminate a lot of guesswork! Even IF its all rectangles and squares, its how they go together that makes the difference.

Thanks so much for everyone's input. 

Next task for me: teach this guy how to make his own buttons! Eh.. he's enthusiastic and creative, I can't see that being TOO much of a problem.... famous last words, I know... 

Kathy



---------------------------------
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I would call Greenburg and Hammer...their online catalogue is not complete.
They offer a set of samples of all their interfacings too.

Sg

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"E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org> wrote:
> 
> A local source for tiny soldered rings? Yay, where? I've checked Joann's and
> etc in the past (but not since I moved here) with no luck; the best I've
> found was 5/16" OD welded steel rings at Lowes, but they never had more than
> a few dozen at a time, and I want a few hundred. I'll be checking Fire
> Mountain as well. (The husband will be relieved to get his soldering iron
> back.)

I was about to suggest Tandy Leather, but their smallest steel rings
are 3/4" OD.  That's probably too big for your purposes.  Rio Grande
has soldered sterling jump rings in a huge number of sizes and shapes
And unlike Fire Mountain, they usually stock things expecting people to
to order hundreds of a particular item.  Probably the most useful sizes to
you would be the 6.3mm, 16ga rings or the 7.9mm, 14ga rings.  Those both
come 10 to a package, but the pricing break chart runs up to 10-19 packages.
They say to call if you want larger quantities.

They have online ordering, but it assumes you have a catalogue there with
you.  If this stuff sounds useful to you, I'll mail you the stock numbers
and price chart and you can take it from there.
www.riogrande.com

I personally find their catalogues dangerous to my credit card balance.
And even my husband drools over their tool catalogue. ;}


Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Subject: [h-cost] Who buys authentic reproduction garments?
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Hi

I've been thinking a lot lately about reproductions vs original garments vs
costumes.  I think I have a rough idea of the reasons people buy authentic
(vintage/antique) garments &/or accessories, as well as those who buy
costumes - something made  for entertainment, for re-enactors or general
enthusiasts.

What I'm not sure about is who buys pieces that are really well researched &
executed as authentically as possible?  I would imagine that the group would
be small since authentic reproductions (or newly-designed pieces constructed
using period materials & methods) aren't cheap or easy to find.  Would a
museum ever consider buying something that isn't an original artifact?

I realize that many people who are very interested in authenticity actually
undertake the research & execution of the work for themselves - what about
those who don't want to do the work (or just can't)?

If any of you have any ideas about who might find such work interesting or
even what periods are of greatest interest, I'd love to hear them.

Pondering...

Elizabeth

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From: "Betsy Marshall" <betsy@softwareinnovation.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] silk thread covered buttons
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 21:50:33 -0600
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Sorry for the delay- the technique I was using involved wrapping thread
spirally around the torus of a bead- my pattern left 3 different colored
tails, which are then braided into a "cord"- which is pulled back
through the center of the button- the one inch length of 1/4 inch dowel
is to ensure a uniform loop/shank to sew the button on to the garment-
the braid is overhand knotted on the side away from the loop and
trimmed- I like to leave a tiny "tassel", which also help keep the knot
tied.
I don't know if this might be from the "50" book, but it was shown to me
many years ago as a way to get coordinated "peri-iod" buttons for a
doublet.
I'd try to get you an ascii picture, but I'm even worse at that than I
am at real art...

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Kimiko Small
Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2004 3:16 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] silk thread covered buttons

At 07:33 AM 1/13/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>Ya- I made a little kit with thread, needle, folding scissors, piece of
>dowel about 1 inch long, beads and floss that fit into an Altoids tin
>and it just rode in the purse, so whenever I had a couple of minutes I
>would do another button.
>Many moons ago, but I still remember having it handy when I went to
Jury
>duty; talk about multi-tasking!
>Betsy


Hi Betsy

I read the instructions last night, but I don't recall seeing a dowel as

one of the needed items. What did you use the 1" dowel for?

And I have bits and pieces of time while with my son, so I am hoping to 
have a little carryall with the projects inside to work on the buttons
as 
time allows. I've been doing my blackwork embroidery in the same manner,

and boy that really has helped move it along.

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

Costume Mistress for Isle of Mann Guild
Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
http://www.costumegallery.com 

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FYI - project gutenberg has just released a middle english dictionary called 

A Concise Dictionary of Middle English _ From A.D. 1150 To 1580 
by Mayhew, A. L. and Walter W. Skeat 
Released: Jan 2004 

the page to search for it is http://www.gutenberg.net/cgi-bin/search/t9.cgi keywords "Middle English" will bring it up.  Found spangles and a few other clothing terms in it at a quick glance.

Lisa Sinervo

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  I remember sometime ago that there was going to be some type of
  costume convention in Atlanta this year.  At the time I did not pay
  attention thinking that there was no way I could go but now there is
  a possibility.
  
  Can someone tell me the name of the convention and dates if it has not already
  taken place?

  Thanks,
  Jonica



-- 
                           mailto:jlkelley@ix.netcom.com

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http://www.cc22.org/

Hope that helps!!
B~
=============================
On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
For the month of January
list people get $2 off shipping Check
out the weaving books and
Heraldry books http://snipurl.com/3pnf
Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
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=============================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "jlkelley" <jlkelley@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: January 14, 2004 11:25 PM
Subject: [h-cost] help with costume convention information


>   I remember sometime ago that there was going to be some type of
>   costume convention in Atlanta this year.  At the time I did not pay
>   attention thinking that there was no way I could go but now there is
>   a possibility.
>
>   Can someone tell me the name of the convention and dates if it has not
already
>   taken place?
>
>   Thanks,
>   Jonica
>
>
>
> -- 
>                            mailto:jlkelley@ix.netcom.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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Bice, thank you that is exactly what I was looking for!

   :)
   Jonica

   
BdE> =============================
BdE> ----- Original Message ----- 
BdE> From: "jlkelley" <jlkelley@ix.netcom.com>
BdE> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
BdE> Sent: January 14, 2004 11:25 PM
BdE> Subject: [h-cost] help with costume convention information


>>   I remember sometime ago that there was going to be some type of
>>   costume convention in Atlanta this year.  At the time I did not pay
>>   attention thinking that there was no way I could go but now there is
>>   a possibility.
>>
>>   Can someone tell me the name of the convention and dates if it has not
BdE> already
>>   taken place?
>>
>>   Thanks,
>>   Jonica
>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>>                            mailto:jlkelley@ix.netcom.com


-- 
Best regards,
 jlkelley                            mailto:jlkelley@ix.netcom.com

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From: "Ron Carnegie" <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Who buys authentic reproduction garments?
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 23:30:01 -0500
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     Authentic reproductions are purchased by some reenactors.  If you look
at the Civil War repro work of Sekela, Childs, etc you will see examples of
this.  These are makers, unlike the more numerous and more inexpensive
suppliers who use vegetable dies, hand stitching where required, similar
weaving methods and so on.  For some one who know what to look for the
differences are obvious, and the campaigner/hardcore/ and to some degree
progressive organizations require this.

     As far as museums are concerned, yes they to have been known to buy
accurate reproductions.  Recently for instance I saw a very good
reproduction at a local fort.  This reproduction was made no doubt because
the original either did not exist or was unavailable.  Reproductions are of
course also replaceable, so they can be used differently.  Textiles can be
troublesome to display due to the wear that the very process of displaying
creates wear to the garments.  A reproduction can also be handled or felt if
that is an important need for the museum.

	Lastly, an excellent reproduction can be used by costumed interpreters.
Now do not expect much business this way.  Most museums with costumed
interpreters dress them appallingly.  The average museum hasn't the budget
for good clothing.  Even  many of the largest of these (like mine) can't
afford first quality reproductions for all employees.

	A properly made reproduction is however a great aid to a first person
interpreter.  Errors in construction (such as machine stitching) can damage
the suspension of disbelief in such an interpreter.  Not only that, but the
more accurate the clothing, the more opportunity for the interpreter to
discuss the clothing itself.  When I started at work our first person
interpreters were dress more accurately than other interpreters.  I never
spoke with Sally Queen at the time, but I suspect this is much of the reason
that she had done so.  On the other hand the experiment she was conducting
at the time with the shoemakers was improving their clothing, so maybe it
was just her goal to improve all the costuming.  Unfortunlty things have
slipped backwards since then.

	I would suggest that you look for museums that use very few costumed
employees, even more so those who are in character (first person).  Many
house museums for instance will rely all year on very badly costumed
docents, but will for special occasions portray those who lived in the
house.  These are great opportunities for a few outfits of excellent
clothing.

    Along those last lines, across the country their are little pockets of
freelance character interpreters.  These people are another very good choice
of customer base though they can be kind of hard to find.  Sometimes they
link up to form sort of agencies such as LAHA, LHA, Virginia Patriots, Past
Time With Good Company, etc.   I do not no where you are, but if you can
find one in your location they will be a good source of customers.  The
companies I mentioned are in California, Virginia, and England.

   One last possibility, though a very difficult one to count on, is
Hollywood.  Yes, historic costumers are quick to insult historic costuming
in Hollywood.  The movie industry does not need the kind of accuracy that
you are looking at and yet they do occasionally demand it.  Movies like last
years "Master and Commander" like to brag about their accuracy.  The new
Colonial House series is another example.  The clothing for that was done by
the Tudor Group in England.  These people do very good work.  I know about
this project because for a while there was some question if they could
actually do all the shirts required in time and I was going to get a chance
to make some of them.  Some good friends of mine at work still did a good
deal of research for that project (including Mark Hutter who is mentioned on
this list occasionally).  Even if such markets don't want the actual level
of work you can provide, the reputation that you have built with accurate
reproductions can get you work as a consultant.

   The negative point?  This does take time.  To get the money that this
sort of work demands, then you have to get your name and more importantly
your reputation out there.  You also have to find the markets, which are
themselves not always easy to fine.

Good lick,

Ron Carnegie
Character Interpreter, Colonial Williamsburg Foundation
Chairman of First Person Interpreters Professional Network (fpipn),
Association of Living History Farms and Museums (ALHFAM)

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Alabaster
> Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2004 10:03 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Who buys authentic reproduction garments?
>
>
> enthusiasts.
>
> What I'm not sure about is who buys pieces that are really well
> researched &
> executed as authentically as possible?  I would imagine that the
> group would
> be small since authentic reproductions (or newly-designed pieces
> constructed
> using period materials & methods) aren't cheap or easy to find.  Would a
> museum ever consider buying something that isn't an original artifact?
>

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Not a problem. I just wish I could go! I'll be with you in spirit!!

B~
=============================
On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
For the month of January
list people get $2 off shipping Check
out the weaving books and
Heraldry books http://snipurl.com/3pnf
Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
www.swapking.com/hats
=============================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "jlkelley" <jlkelley@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: January 14, 2004 11:36 PM
Subject: Re[2]: [h-cost] help with costume convention information


> Bice, thank you that is exactly what I was looking for!
>
>    :)
>    Jonica
>
>
> BdE> =============================
> BdE> ----- Original Message ----- 
> BdE> From: "jlkelley" <jlkelley@ix.netcom.com>
> BdE> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> BdE> Sent: January 14, 2004 11:25 PM
> BdE> Subject: [h-cost] help with costume convention information
>
>
> >>   I remember sometime ago that there was going to be some type of
> >>   costume convention in Atlanta this year.  At the time I did not pay
> >>   attention thinking that there was no way I could go but now there is
> >>   a possibility.
> >>
> >>   Can someone tell me the name of the convention and dates if it has
not
> BdE> already
> >>   taken place?
> >>
> >>   Thanks,
> >>   Jonica
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> -- 
> >>                            mailto:jlkelley@ix.netcom.com
>
>
> -- 
> Best regards,
>  jlkelley                            mailto:jlkelley@ix.netcom.com
>
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jan 15 02:57:58 2004
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Subject: [h-cost] Looking for Crochet Patterns
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I have taken up crochet again... last time I crocheted was in 1976... very
easy thing to do without hurting my back or eyesight.  I crocheted one of
those long scarves for my daughter.  These scarves are fashionable now.  She
is wanting one of those crocheted hats like Ali McGraw wore in the film Love
Story.  Does anyone know where to find this pattern?

I am also looking for a pattern that was published in Family Circle or
Woman's Day magazine in the late 1970s or early 1980s.  It was a white
bedspread with large blocks about 18 inches square.  In the center of each
square was a rose that was kinda 3-D... the color of the rose was red or a
rosy pink colored.  If anyone has or runs across this pattern, please let me
know.  I have been keeping an eye out for years.  My departed mother-in-law
made two of this bedspread and I loved them.  I always wanted one for
myself.

BTW, while at Ben Franklins Crafts & More tonight, I picked up a free
pattern for a long crocheted knee length vest like the ones from the 1970s.
My daughter is dying to have one.  Good thing winter lasts a long time hear!

Yes, the 1970s is now considered historic!!!!!!!! Some like to say vintage
but it is still historic.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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Subject: [h-cost] America's Top Model TV Show
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Has anyone watched the new reality TV show, American's Top Model Search, on
UPN? The show is produced by Tyra Banks. Open to hear anyone's thoughts.

You can see the website at: http://www.upn.com/shows/top_model2/  You can
click on each contestant photo to see photos and profiles.  They are
supposed to have photos on the site of the model's body paint/Garden of Eden
photo session, but I can't find them.  The photos were shown on TV for just
a couple of seconds and they were beautiful.  If anyone finds them, let me
know where.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] America's Top Model TV Show
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I found the Garden of Eden / body paint photos at
http://www.upn.com/shows/top_model2/episode01/photogallery/photos.shtml
click on Portfolio One: Body Paint

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
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www.costumeclassroom.com


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Subject: [h-cost] Lady Mary Guildfords white "strap"
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Hi all,

I was briefly discussing a Tudor portrait with another costumer and she 
pointed out that on this portrait there is a white "strap" that goes over 
the dark gown's left shoulder and down the sidefront, but as the chains and 
her large sleeves are in the way, one cannot see what it actually is. The 
dress itself is very dark, brown or black, I am not sure. So the white 
"strap" stands out very clearly.

The image is this:
Portrait of Lady Mary Guildford, by Holbein.
http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/art/h/holbein/hans_y/1528/2guildf2.jpg

Any ideas as to what this white "strap" may actually be?

Kimiko

Kimiko Small
Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother

"The future belongs to those who believe
      in the beauty of their dreams." - Eleanor Roosevelt
LiveJournal: http://www.livejournal.com/~sstormwatch/
e-mail: kimiko@kimiko1.com
web site: http://www.kimiko1.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lady Mary Guildfords white "strap"
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Status: RO

It looks like an undersleeve or chemise like for a tied on sleeve BUT I
think it may be a simple white band that some women wore to show religous
affiliation.

B~
=============================
On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
For the month of January
list people get $2 off shipping Check
out the weaving books and
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kimiko Small" <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: January 15, 2004 3:28 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Lady Mary Guildfords white "strap"


> Hi all,
>
> I was briefly discussing a Tudor portrait with another costumer and she
> pointed out that on this portrait there is a white "strap" that goes over
> the dark gown's left shoulder and down the sidefront, but as the chains
and
> her large sleeves are in the way, one cannot see what it actually is. The
> dress itself is very dark, brown or black, I am not sure. So the white
> "strap" stands out very clearly.
>
> The image is this:
> Portrait of Lady Mary Guildford, by Holbein.
> http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/art/h/holbein/hans_y/1528/2guildf2.jpg
>
> Any ideas as to what this white "strap" may actually be?
>
> Kimiko
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From: "Dawn Wood" <dawn@agesofelegance.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <JDEFJILLHHHFNBDGBLEPMEMMCIAA.elizabeth@alabasterstyle.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Who buys authentic reproduction garments?
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 09:58:39 -0000
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I do a lot of work for museums as well as for re-enactors/interpretors who
have been around for a long-time and have now decided they now want to do it
well.

My specialist market however is militaria collectors as the chances of them
being able to find an original 18th or early 19thc uniform is pretty samll
so they may have managed to find some accoutrements and want the clothing to
go with them

Dawn
Ages Of Elegance makers of historical clothing, uniforms and bridalwear
http://www.agesofelegance.co.uk 0113 277 6716
> even what periods are of greatest interest, I'd love to hear them.
>
> Pondering...
>
> Elizabeth
>


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Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 03:11:47 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lady Mary Guildfords white "strap"
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>I was briefly discussing a Tudor portrait with another costumer and she 
>pointed out that on this portrait there is a white "strap" that goes over 
>the dark gown's left shoulder and down the sidefront, but as the chains 
>and her large sleeves are in the way, one cannot see what it actually is. 
>The dress itself is very dark, brown or black, I am not sure. So the white 
>"strap" stands out very clearly.
>
>The image is this:
>Portrait of Lady Mary Guildford, by Holbein.
>http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/art/h/holbein/hans_y/1528/2guildf2.jpg
>
>Any ideas as to what this white "strap" may actually be?

We go round and round on this periodically.  Everybody has an opinion, 
myself included, but nobody knows for sure what it is.  And Lady Mary isn't 
telling.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 03:04:59 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Who buys authentic reproduction garments?
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>I realize that many people who are very interested in authenticity actually
>undertake the research & execution of the work for themselves - what about
>those who don't want to do the work (or just can't)?

If one works 60+ hours a week and still cares about authenticity, one can 
afford to commission really good (=really expensive) re-creations.  The 
rest of us wear what we make ourselves.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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References: <030a01c3db3e$62d09d00$0400a8c0@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] America's Top Model TV Show
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 08:13:38 -0500
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I watched it last season and the first episode this season (the only one
aired so far). I liked it, but am not sure it is because I -like- it or
because of some sort of morbid fascination!   ;-)

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2004 3:05 AM
Subject: [h-cost] America's Top Model TV Show


> Has anyone watched the new reality TV show, American's Top Model Search,
on
> UPN? The show is produced by Tyra Banks. Open to hear anyone's thoughts.
>
> You can see the website at: http://www.upn.com/shows/top_model2/  You can
> click on each contestant photo to see photos and profiles.  They are
> supposed to have photos on the site of the model's body paint/Garden of
Eden
> photo session, but I can't find them.  The photos were shown on TV for
just
> a couple of seconds and they were beautiful.  If anyone finds them, let me
> know where.
>
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
>
>
> [This E-mail was scanned for viruses by Plugit.com Virus Scanners
(http://www.plugit.com)]
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lady Mary Guildfords white "strap"
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Bice d'Este wrote:
> It looks like an undersleeve or chemise like for a tied on sleeve BUT I
> think it may be a simple white band that some women wore to show religous
> affiliation.

The religious affiliation is an idea I haven't heard yet. Cool. Any details?
Over time I've jotted down some possibilities along with my own 
interpretations of them them. Check out:
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/whiteband.html

- Hope

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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Who buys authentic reproduction garments?
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 07:54:06 -0700
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I have just been asked by a portrait painter to reproduce a 1940ish gown
which he purchased.  He just like the style, and from the photo it doesn't
even look like it is in bad shape...sounds like fun...

Sg


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Lady Mary Guildfords white "strap"
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Someone out there has a whole list of theories, but I can't remember who it
is.  It is on the web.....

Sg



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In a message dated 1/15/2004 9:54:29 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
saragrace@earthlink.net writes:

> I have just been asked by a portrait painter to reproduce a 1940ish gown
> which he purchased.  He just like the style, and from the photo it doesn't
> even look like it is in bad shape...sounds like fun...
> 
> 

And last year I was asked to make an 1804-ish great coat for a sculptor who 
was doing a statue of Beethoven for a musical society in DC. Alas the project 
is on hold for now.

Ya never know when these things are needed and wanted.
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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Gutenberg Middle English Dictionary release
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 07:58:51 -0700
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Yep, and for those of you with an university affiliation it may be online
with the OED...getting a grad degree has its perks too!

Sg

-----Original Message-----


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Who buys authentic reproduction garments?
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In a message dated 1/15/2004 6:12:54 AM Eastern Standard Time, kayta@frys.com 
writes:

> The 
> rest of us wear what we make ourselves.
> 

Which of course are perfect repro....oh never mind...  :-P
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From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lady Mary Guildfords white "strap"
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 10:49:06 -0500
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Let me see what I can find. I've only seen a few (very few) refrences to
this type of badge. It has something to do with wo men who either eventually
cloister or do secular OR in certain times could not worship as they choce
so used fashion to show it.
=============================
On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
=============================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Hope Greenberg" <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: January 15, 2004 9:46 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lady Mary Guildfords white "strap"


>
>
> Bice d'Este wrote:
> > It looks like an undersleeve or chemise like for a tied on sleeve BUT I
> > think it may be a simple white band that some women wore to show
religous
> > affiliation.
>
> The religious affiliation is an idea I haven't heard yet. Cool. Any
details?
> Over time I've jotted down some possibilities along with my own
> interpretations of them them. Check out:
> http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/whiteband.html
>
> - Hope
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Dear Ingrid.
You wrote:
Actually, the Sture garments are Swedish. :) They've been discussed on
the historiska.se web board, and one interesting thing I learned is 
that one of the Sture pluderhosen were built on a foundation of suede
deerskin pants/trousers (I'm unsure of the correct terminology for that
layer...). These are not mentioned in Arnold but have been displayed in
Livrustkammaren in Stockholm).
This would be very nice for me i think. Would you please send some informations about this web board?

Thanks a lot in advance

Bjarne







Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lady Mary Guildfords white "strap"
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I'm not sure if I'm the first/only one to come up with the idea, but I did notice and post to the list awhile back that the ladies who had that particular element to their costume were the ones known to have a Catholic rather than Protestant religious affiliation (where any affiliation is known). I have no idea if this is an actual meaning of the white band, or if it's trend created not by any period use, but by our imperfect understanding of the costume and limited pictorial references. So, right now, as far as I know, the white band=religious affiliation is simply an idea (I don't even think it could be dignified with the term 'theory') which needs alot of further research and investigation.


Karen

-- Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu> wrote:
Bice d'Este wrote:
> It looks like an undersleeve or chemise like for a tied on sleeve BUT I
> think it may be a simple white band that some women wore to show religous
> affiliation.

The religious affiliation is an idea I haven't heard yet. Cool. Any details?
Over time I've jotted down some possibilities along with my own 
interpretations of them them. Check out:
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/whiteband.html

- Hope

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lady Mary Guildfords white "strap"
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Hi Karen, I just posted similiar thoughts. Great minds I guess!!

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <seamstrix@juno.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: January 15, 2004 10:55 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lady Mary Guildfords white "strap"


>
> I'm not sure if I'm the first/only one to come up with the idea, but I did
notice and post to the list awhile back that the ladies who had that
particular element to their costume were the ones known to have a Catholic
rather than Protestant religious affiliation (where any affiliation is
known). I have no idea if this is an actual meaning of the white band, or if
it's trend created not by any period use, but by our imperfect understanding
of the costume and limited pictorial references. So, right now, as far as I
know, the white band=religious affiliation is simply an idea (I don't even
think it could be dignified with the term 'theory') which needs alot of
further research and investigation.
>
>
> Karen
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Who buys authentic reproduction garments?
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Hi,
Those people i join in different "clubs" Gustafs Skĺl in Sweden, ( a
gustavian society ) are (mostly) very fine and authentic dressed. It is
people who loves 18th century and many of them makes their own costumes and
try to be as accurate as possible.
When i can i do it myself. I spended a fortune this season on buying real
expensive duchesse satin in silk for a new suit i want to make, and the
embroidery i make on the costume, i make as accurate as possible two using
embroidery silk threads, gold and silver spangels etc.
In april i am going to Bath to join the Georgian Ball, wich deals with most
of 18th century and many of those who comes are dressed very historically
correckt, and has (if they could not make it themselves - had others to make
them costume for the event.)
Many of those people makes it a sport to find the correkt fabrics -
materials, even if it is hard to find!
I dont think you would be able to buy real 18th century garments to use for
these events, they would not endure it, and therefore they have to make
reproduktions.


Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alabaster" <elizabeth@alabasterstyle.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2004 4:02 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Who buys authentic reproduction garments?


> Hi
>
> I've been thinking a lot lately about reproductions vs original garments
vs
> costumes.  I think I have a rough idea of the reasons people buy authentic
> (vintage/antique) garments &/or accessories, as well as those who buy
> costumes - something made  for entertainment, for re-enactors or general
> enthusiasts.
>
> What I'm not sure about is who buys pieces that are really well researched
&
> executed as authentically as possible?  I would imagine that the group
would
> be small since authentic reproductions (or newly-designed pieces
constructed
> using period materials & methods) aren't cheap or easy to find.  Would a
> museum ever consider buying something that isn't an original artifact?
>
> I realize that many people who are very interested in authenticity
actually
> undertake the research & execution of the work for themselves - what about
> those who don't want to do the work (or just can't)?
>
> If any of you have any ideas about who might find such work interesting or
> even what periods are of greatest interest, I'd love to hear them.
>
> Pondering...
>
> Elizabeth
>
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jan 15 12:25:40 2004
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From: "Kate Pinner" <pinner@mccc.edu>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] bustle buttons, thread (was: tailor's hair canvas)
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 12:24:26 -0500
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They probably have them to self-cover so they match the dress fabric.
Kate

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Lynn Downward
Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2004 2:53 PM
To: h costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] bustle buttons, thread (was: tailor's hair canvas)

On 1/14/04 10:54 AM, "Angela Kessler" <ivyharpdotcom@yahoo.com> wrote:

> --- Lynn Downward <LDownward@chori.org> wrote:
>> However, does anyone know what
>> bustle buttons or bustle
>> thread is? I'm focused on 1887 right now and had
>> never heard of these
>> things. And of course, there are no pictures of
>> these two specific items.
>> 
>> LynnD
>> 
> 
> My guess is that they're not for recreating the bustle
> period, but for modern bustles, which are most
> commonly seen on wedding gowns when the bride bunches
> up her train.  I'd be curious as to the shape of the
> buttons, but I'd guess that the thread is heavy-duty,
> as these few buttons have to support the weight of the
> skirt train.
> 
> -Angela
> 
Of course, it's probably a strong button that will blend in to the dress
and
the thread to hold up yards of bridal satin.

Duh.

All I can say in my own defense is that I've been focused on 1886-7 for
the
past few weeks and just saw what I wanted to see. And of course, it
confused
me.

LynnD

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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Who buys authentic reproduction garments?
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> > The
> > rest of us wear what we make ourselves.
> >
>
>Which of course are perfect repro....oh never mind...  :-P

Of course.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <02fe01c3db3c$c7540980$0400a8c0@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for Crochet Patterns
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Penny, I think I have the mag you are looking for but will need to 'form a
search'.  I'll try to do this in the next couple of days.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2004 2:54 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Looking for Crochet Patterns


> I have taken up crochet again... last time I crocheted was in 1976... very
> easy thing to do without hurting my back or eyesight.  I crocheted one of
> those long scarves for my daughter.  These scarves are fashionable now.
She
> is wanting one of those crocheted hats like Ali McGraw wore in the film
Love
> Story.  Does anyone know where to find this pattern?
>
> I am also looking for a pattern that was published in Family Circle or
> Woman's Day magazine in the late 1970s or early 1980s.  It was a white
> bedspread with large blocks about 18 inches square.  In the center of each
> square was a rose that was kinda 3-D... the color of the rose was red or a
> rosy pink colored.  If anyone has or runs across this pattern, please let
me
> know.  I have been keeping an eye out for years.  My departed
mother-in-law
> made two of this bedspread and I loved them.  I always wanted one for
> myself.
>
> BTW, while at Ben Franklins Crafts & More tonight, I picked up a free
> pattern for a long crocheted knee length vest like the ones from the
1970s.
> My daughter is dying to have one.  Good thing winter lasts a long time
hear!
>
> Yes, the 1970s is now considered historic!!!!!!!! Some like to say vintage
> but it is still historic.
>
> Penny Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
>
>
> [This E-mail was scanned for viruses by Plugit.com Virus Scanners
(http://www.plugit.com)]
>
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>

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Subject: [h-cost] Making Authentic Period Clothing
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Hi!
 
I am new to the SCA, and new to sewing period clothing, and I am just learning the techniques, etc., but eventually I want to get to the point of being extremely authentic and historically correct.  In the back of my mind I have this idea of making and selling this type of clothing, jewelry, accessories, etc.  I've become addicted, I think, to doing it, and I can never wear everything I want to make!  
 
I also have no idea who would be interested in buying it, because from what I've seen, the people who buy garb are not interested in authenticity, and the people who are make their own.  But I am defininately interested in making it!
 
Giovanna Vernaccia
 


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>,
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@margospatterns.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patterns from Museums
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>
>
>I don't know if anyone contacted you privately, or not, like Margo or Kass. 
>However, in a book I just got, Pricing Without Fear, by Barbara Wright 
>Sykes, there is something mentioned about McCalls being able to create 
>patterns for small entrepreneurs. You have to contact them and get their 
>kit, and follow it.
>
>Their info as listed in the book is:
>McCall's Pattern Company
>615 McCall's Road
>Manhattan, KS 66502
>785-776-4041


That's correct, Kimiko.  The person to ask for is Dave Hoover, in the
Commercial Printing Division. 

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"

www.margospatterns.com
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From: "Lisa Sinervo" <Lisa-list@thrednedlestrete.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making Authentic Period Clothing
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 12:11:34 -0800
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Giovanna wrote:


> I also have no idea who would be interested in buying it, because from
what I've seen, the people who buy garb are not interested in authenticity,
and the people who are make their own.  But I am defininately interested in
making it!
>
There is a huge market for people who WANT authentic clothing, just not a
huge market willing or able to PAY for what authentic clothing is really
worth.  But if you are exceptionally you can end up with a waiting list -
partly because authentic clothing takes longer to make!

Lisa Sinervo
www.thrednedlestrete.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for tailor's hair canvas
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>
> Thanks Ruth for the suggestion. I hadn't looked at this before, but the
> interfacings they have listed are polyester blends, no wool or hair types.
> Our summers are very hot, so I am trying for more natural interlinings,
> such as linen, wool and goat hair.
>
> ah, wait! They also have Hymo listed, separately. I will have to see what
> else they have, and may get a catalog as well. I will bookmark them for
> further explorations. And don't lurk so long. Your knowledge is welcome
> here.
> :-)
>
> Kimiko

Kimiko,

I know that the stuff Hancock's used to carry was called Acro and I
thought Greenberg & Hammer had it. Yup, in their catalog from 2000 they
carry it.  it is $6.60 per yard up to 10 yards and goes down from there
based on volume.  If you looked on line, they may not have it uploaded
yet.  They also describe the Hymo you mentioned but it seems heavier than
the Acro based on the description.

Short of finding it online, I found hair canvas (of all places) in the
upholstery section of a local independant fabric store.  I know you live
somewhere in the San Juaquin valley but if you can make it in to Oakland,
the place is called Poppy fabrics.  The best part is it is VERY wide and
only like 8- or 12-something a yard which is a much better deal than
6-something for 26 inches.

Let me know if you need more info.....

-- 
Diana Habra
www.renaissancefabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"
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> I also have no idea who would be interested in buying it, because from
what I've seen, the people who buy garb are not interested in authenticity,
and the people who are make their own.  But I am defininately interested in
making it!

I think a lot of people who are interested in authenticity make their own
not only because of money, but also because it's one of the only ways the
can be certain of being "authentic enough" for them.
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> I also have no idea who would be interested in buying it, because from
> what I've seen, the people who buy garb are not interested in
> authenticity, and the people who are make their own.  But I am
> defininately interested in making it!

Most of the people on this list like to make their own, so you won't 
be alone here.

As for people making their own, that's the only way most of us can 
afford to have it as authentic as we'd like. The merchants rarely 
carry anything that is authentic enough to suit us. (There are rare 
exceptions such as Desert Torch Tailoring.) However, the more 
authentic they are, the more work often goes into them so they end up 
being more expensive. 

The merchants cater to people who want something quickly and want it 
inexpensive. So, they use mostly cheap, non-period materials and do 
most of the work in a modern method (construction patterning) which 
are more easily done by serger.

There are people here who do sew for a living (theatre, living 
history, commission work) but very few people can afford to have it 
as authentic as we'd like to have it.

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Subject: [h-cost] need help for 1861
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 I need some help on making clothing for a 1861
reenactment group. Civilian clothing only. Is there an
ACTIVE mailing list for this time period? 
links, etc anything would be greatly appreciated.

=====
Seńora Catalina
Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit

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From: Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>
To: Diana Habra <dch@inreach.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for tailor's hair canvas
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Greenberg & Hammer used to have the Hymo-red edge, I loved the stuff but
it is no longer available, hasn't been for a few years now; they now
just have the somewhat more lightweight one now, it works fairly well.
I usually use it for stiffening 1890's ballgown skirts.  Now if only
they still carried a coutil that was a decent weight.

Katy

On Thu, 15 Jan 2004, Diana Habra wrote:

>
>>
>> Thanks Ruth for the suggestion. I hadn't looked at this before, but the
>> interfacings they have listed are polyester blends, no wool or hair types.
>> Our summers are very hot, so I am trying for more natural interlinings,
>> such as linen, wool and goat hair.
>>
>> ah, wait! They also have Hymo listed, separately. I will have to see what
>> else they have, and may get a catalog as well. I will bookmark them for
>> further explorations. And don't lurk so long. Your knowledge is welcome
>> here.
>> :-)
>>
>> Kimiko
>
>Kimiko,
>
>I know that the stuff Hancock's used to carry was called Acro and I
>thought Greenberg & Hammer had it. Yup, in their catalog from 2000 they
>carry it.  it is $6.60 per yard up to 10 yards and goes down from there
>based on volume.  If you looked on line, they may not have it uploaded
>yet.  They also describe the Hymo you mentioned but it seems heavier than
>the Acro based on the description.
>
>Short of finding it online, I found hair canvas (of all places) in the
>upholstery section of a local independant fabric store.  I know you live
>somewhere in the San Juaquin valley but if you can make it in to Oakland,
>the place is called Poppy fabrics.  The best part is it is VERY wide and
>only like 8- or 12-something a yard which is a much better deal than
>6-something for 26 inches.
>
>Let me know if you need more info.....
>
>--
>Diana Habra
>www.renaissancefabrics.net
>"Everything for the Costumer"
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Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Jan 16 00:18:11 2004
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mn.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lady Mary Guildfords white "strap"
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At 09:46 AM 1/15/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Bice d'Este wrote:
>>It looks like an undersleeve or chemise like for a tied on sleeve BUT I
>>think it may be a simple white band that some women wore to show religous
>>affiliation.
>
>The religious affiliation is an idea I haven't heard yet. Cool. Any details?
>Over time I've jotted down some possibilities along with my own 
>interpretations of them them. Check out:
>http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/whiteband.html
>
>- Hope

Interesting.  Running (probably away with <G>) the religious idea...does 
anyone know of any records that might indicate confraternity membership of 
these ladies with the white straps?  Confraternities were very popular in 
Europe (in England some of the segued in the the guilds) and white was a 
common colour for confraternity clothes and regalia.  I've seen mention of 
confraternity emblems being worn in Spain and never gave it much thought 
for England...

Cheers,
Danielle

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Greetings one and all,

    I was curious if anyone knows who the jeweler/metal smith was who 
designed and created the beautiful silver headdress that Arwen was 
wearing at the end of the "Return of the King".
     As a budding jeweler I found it to be to wonderful for words, but 
would love a closer look at it.  If anyone knows of any websites that 
may show it well, I would love to explore them.

Roscelin


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I am asking on Teddy's behalf:

does anyone know of images on the internet of Victorian bathing costumes?

Thanks

Nicole

=====
Email: nicole@kipar.org
Website: http://www.kipar.org

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Not online but I have a load of books and images :)

Mel

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] historiska.se web board
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On Thu, 15 Jan 2004, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>> Actually, the Sture garments are Swedish. :) They've been discussed
>> on the historiska.se web board
<snip>
> This would be very nice for me i think. Would you please send some
> informations about this web board?

Hi, Bjarne! I'll reply to the list in case anyone else who reads
Swedish/Norwegian/Danish is interested. This is the same web board that
was menioned briefly in the discussion we had on Norse clothing
recently; the URL is http://www.historiska.se/histvarld/forum/. Most of
the topics tend to be on Viking age and Medieval period, but it
certainly doesn't have to stay that way. You'll be very welcome, Bjarne.
:) Most of the posters write in Swedish but but some of us write 
Norwegian and there has been a little bit of Danish as well.
 
On the topic of the Sture garments, if you were particularly interested
in those, the discussions have been fairly brief but what there is can
be found by using the search function and searching on "Sture" og
"sturarna". :)

Ingrid


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Roscelin wrote:
> If anyone knows of any websites that 
> may show it well, I would love to explore them.

If anyone has good images, these folks do:

http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr/

An absolutely amazing site.  There's also a fantasy costume discussion 
list that you could join to talk with others about it.  Not sure where 
it's hosted, though.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
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Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 02:08:32 -0800
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for tailor's hair canvas
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At 08:21 PM 1/15/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Now if only
>they still carried a coutil that was a decent weight.
>
>Katy

Hi Katy,

Thanks for the info on the red edges Hymo.

On the coutil, have you checked out Farthingales, in Canada? Linda has a 
lot of different coutils in her on-line catalog, and she is very 
knowledgeable about all things related to corsets. Try this for her coutil 
fabrics http://www.farthingales.on.ca/coutil.php
What I like is that the prices are Canadian, so they translate to lower 
prices for those in the US, and she ships US as well. YMMV.

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

Costume Mistress for Isle of Mann Guild
Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
http://www.costumegallery.com 

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From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] looking for tailor's hair canvas
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At 06:04 PM 1/14/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>I would call Greenburg and Hammer...their online catalogue is not complete.
>They offer a set of samples of all their interfacings too.
>
>Sg



Ah, thank you! I think I have their catalog around here someplace (I so 
need to clean this sewing room and organize things, and put papers away, 
and...), but I didn't know they would send interfacing swatches.

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

Costume Mistress for Isle of Mann Guild
Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
http://www.costumegallery.com 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for tailor's hair canvas
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At 12:32 PM 1/15/2004 -0800, you wrote:
 > I know that the stuff Hancock's used to carry was called Acro ...

>Short of finding it online, I found hair canvas (of all places) in the
>upholstery section of a local independant fabric store.  I know you live
>somewhere in the San Juaquin valley but if you can make it in to Oakland,
>the place is called Poppy fabrics.  The best part is it is VERY wide and
>only like 8- or 12-something a yard which is a much better deal than
>6-something for 26 inches.


Thanks so much for this info Diana, I appreciate it very much. I don't make 
it to the Bay too often, but my half brother lives in Oakland, so I may 
make a dual duty trip sometime soon. Can you tell me where Poppy fabrics 
is? I am only familiar with Stone Mountain and Daughter in Berkeley.

Thanks again!

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

Costume Mistress for Isle of Mann Guild
Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
http://www.costumegallery.com 

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Subject: [h-cost] Nebuly headdress: image search
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Hi Folks,

Over on SCA-Milliners, a poster is looking at a redrawing of something 
that I think is a crude version of a nebuly headdress.  I know I've seen 
a sculpture of this thing, but I can't seem to find an image of it.  I'm 
hoping one of you might know it:

It is a single figure.  My brain says black stone, but that seems 
unlikely.  The nebuly headdress is like a large honeycombed sausage, 
framing her face in three sides of a square, with a thin veil down the 
back.  She might have her hands in slits in her dress (fichets).  Note 
that this is not the simple ruffled veil of the Arnolfini Wedding style.

Any other good images of the very stuffed-looking nebuly would be great, 
too.  I searched the archives, but there were no hits for nebuly.

Thanks!

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

   "Such virtue hath my pen...."  -Shakespeare, Sonnet 81
        "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!"  --Cynthia V.
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They've got a link out to directions on how to do the lothlorien brooches
in polymer clay. 

http://www.geocities.com/evilgal501/index.htm

Having worked with polymer clay extensively, I'd give two caveats:

Sculpey is the softest and most brittle of all the polymer clays.  Consider
using Premo or Fimo Soft instead.  Premo is the strongest of the clays but
is still relatively easy to work.  If you find it too sticky, leach some of
the plasticizer out of the clay by pressing it between two sheets of smooth
paper for a couple hours.

If you're going to stick a pin back on this, consider using a hard-setting
epoxy like JB Weld.  Yes, it's gray and ugly, but it holds a lot better and
has more structural strength than other types of epoxy.  It's also better
for filling gaps, which you'll have if you form the brooch as in the 
directions.

Take a look at the Glass Attic if you plan to jump into doing reproduction
jewelry with polymer clay:
http://www.glassattic.com/

Among other things, the Glass Attic has extensive entries on what types
of paints and finishes are compatible with the various polymer clays and
how to produce various patinas and faux finishes.  For those of us on limited
budgets, this is sometimes the best way to come up with a "perfect" jewelry
piece for a fantasy or historic costume.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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>Thanks so much for this info Diana, I appreciate it very much. I don't make 
>it to the Bay too often, but my half brother lives in Oakland, so I may 
>make a dual duty trip sometime soon. Can you tell me where Poppy fabrics 
>is? I am only familiar with Stone Mountain and Daughter in Berkeley.

5151 Broadway Oakland

That's on Broadway, near 51st Avenue.  

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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References: <E1AgTCc-0000nT-00@eggnog>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th century mailing list
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 06:49:51 -0600
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Do you intend to cover the entire 17th century or mostly the later half,
Restoration, et al? I'm more interested in early/mid century.

Nora
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kirrily Robert" <skud@infotrope.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2004 12:23 PM
Subject: [h-cost] 17th century mailing list


> Greetings,
>
> I'm pleased to be able to announce the formation of a 17th century
> living history mailing list.  My previous researches turned up no
> general-purpose list for this subject, so I got together with Kass
> McGann and we created one.
>
> The blurb for the list is as follows:
>
>     This list is focussed on the discussion of European and
>     European-colonial 17th century life and culture as it pertains to
>     living history, re-enactment, and other such historical activities.
>
>     There are many organizations which portray the 17th century,
>     including English Civil War groups, American colonial, and a range
>     of groups set in various parts of Europe. Many of them have a
>     military focus, and hence many of the mailing lists which discuss
>     the 17th century discuss primarily military matters - pike drill,
>     muskets, uniforms, and so on.
>
>     This mailing list is different in that it provides a forum for
>     discussion of non-military matters such as civilian life, clothing,
>     food and drink, music and dance, art and culture, and other matters
>     pertaining to the accurate portrayal of people living in the 17th
>     century.
>
> So in short, a general purpose 17th century discussion list.  Clothing,
> culture, politics, food and drink, you name it.
>
> Anyone who's interested may subscribe at the following address:
>
http://reconstructinghistory.com/mailman/listinfo/17thcentury_reconstructinghistory.com
>
> K.
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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	<5.2.1.1.0.20040116021453.02214b50@64.87.54.245>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for tailor's hair canvas
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Kimiko, how much of the 'Hymo' do you need for finishing your project.  I
came across a piece in the stash while cleaning, yesterday...
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kimiko Small" <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, January 16, 2004 5:15 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] looking for tailor's hair canvas


> At 06:04 PM 1/14/2004 -0700, you wrote:
> >I would call Greenburg and Hammer...their online catalogue is not
complete.
> >They offer a set of samples of all their interfacings too.
> >
> >Sg
>
>
>
> Ah, thank you! I think I have their catalog around here someplace (I so
> need to clean this sewing room and organize things, and put papers away,
> and...), but I didn't know they would send interfacing swatches.
>
> Kimiko
>
>
> Kimiko Small
> Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
> "When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell
>
> Costume Mistress for Isle of Mann Guild
> Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
> http://www.costumegallery.com
>
> _______________________________________________
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>

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From: Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for tailor's hair canvas
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I have been meaning to try them out, Thanks, I am all out of coutil and
hoarding my last yard of the old heavy coutil.

Katy

On Fri, 16 Jan 2004, Kimiko Small wrote:

>
>On the coutil, have you checked out Farthingales, in Canada? Linda has a
>lot of different coutils in her on-line catalog, and she is very
>knowledgeable about all things related to corsets. Try this for her coutil
>fabrics http://www.farthingales.on.ca/coutil.php
>What I like is that the prices are Canadian, so they translate to lower
>prices for those in the US, and she ships US as well. YMMV.
>
>Kimiko


Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] LOTR-Arwen's head-dress
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Cynthia Virtue wrote:
> Roscelin wrote:
> 
>> If anyone knows of any websites that may show it well, I would love to 
>> explore them.
> 
> 
> If anyone has good images, these folks do:
> 
> http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr/

   In the last day or so someone has put up a sketch on 
making it, and we've got someone working on a tutorial on it 
for the website. The sketch would be in the yahoo 
photoalbum, have to find the original message that say's 
who's though. Yeah, there's a bit of current interest in it. 
Although some are saying it's fine chain, someone else is 
thinking strung sead beads.
> 
> An absolutely amazing site.  There's also a fantasy costume discussion 
> list that you could join to talk with others about it.  Not sure where 
> it's hosted, though.

	The discussion group is at 
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/LOTR_Costume/> however, 
WARNING: unless you can deal with 60-90 emails in a day from 
the group (it's at least as high traffic or more than 
h-costume!) set your subscription to "nomail" and read it on 
the web, or to "digest". There are amazing people with 
talents in just about everything. And I think the archives 
are also public so you can read without joining (just can't 
post).

	-Judy Mitchell

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One of the most active at the moment is the CW-Civilian Yahoo group.  The
web page is http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CWCivilian/
A list that is not so active at the moment, but has some knowledgeable
folks on it (they overlap with the CW-Civilian group) is cw-reenactors.
Their subscription information is at
http://www.cw-reenactors.com/

There is also a forum at
http://www.cwreenactors.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi?az=list&forum=civilian
The Authentic-Campaigners forum  ( http://www.authentic-campaigners.com) is
excellent, but it is currently having software problems.  At the moment,
the entire valuable archive is inaccessible.

Vicki Betts
vbetts@gower.net



                                                                           
             Catalina Saravia                                              
             Quicedo                                                       
             <ladyforbeys@yaho                                          To 
             o.com>                    Historical Costume                  
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                                       [h-cost] need help for 1861         
             01/15/2004 03:56                                              
             PM                                                            
                                                                           
                                                                           
             Please respond to                                             
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 I need some help on making clothing for a 1861
reenactment group. Civilian clothing only. Is there an
ACTIVE mailing list for this time period?
links, etc anything would be greatly appreciated.

=====
Seńora Catalina
Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit

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You should be able to find all sorts of help on your Civil War sewing at the
following site:

CWCivilian@yahoogroups.com

Martha




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>Their info as listed in the book is:
>McCall's Pattern Company
>615 McCall's Road
>Manhattan, KS 66502
>785-776-4041

That's correct, Kimiko.  The person to ask for is Dave Hoover, in the
Commercial Printing Division. 

Margo
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Thanks ladies!  The museum is in Kansas too so that may help.

I don't know where they got the grant, but the museum I am talking
about has a small one specifically to get good costumes made.  They do
living history tours and part of the problem with the current costumes
is that they were made on a budget, by a volunteer (good seamstress, not
so good on research) and they needed to be adjustable to fit several
different people.  Probably a similar situation with most small
museums.

The staff hopes to get good costumes made and I hope that will encourge
some of the more active volunteers to invest in their own costumes too. 
Fortunately I have managed to hook them up with a couple of folks
locally that do good work.  Part of their payment will be a chance to
'run amok' through the costume collection.  Hmmmm, that might be an idea
for someone else; if you know of a museum in your area that you feel
needs better costumes offer a trade, sewing for a chance at upclose
research.

Catherine
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Penny:

I'm not sure what you're asking for. I don't watch any "reality" TV and so I
wouldn't watch that one. I looked at the site you posted, and that was
enough for me. I really don't understand the appeal of watching a bunch of
beautiful women call each other names and be nasty to each other. No wait, I
guess for many people that IS the appeal. Are you asking about the clothes?
The photos? The show itself? The site crashed my computer so I never did see
the "Garden of Eden" photos, but I saw the photos of the "girls" doing some
kind of military fashion shoot. Nothing special, IMHO.

Gail Finke

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As the last person on earth (seemingly) to see this movie, I'd like to weigh
in on the corset controversy! I didn't think the movie implied at all that
Elizabeth had never worn a corset, considering that she seemed to be wearing
one much of the time. I thought the one she got with her new gown was
supposed to be extra tight, and that she fainted because she was standing in
the sun in it for too long. This is my children's opinion too. I asked them
(9 and 7) why they thought she fainted, and they said because she was too
hot.

(ASIDE: I took my daughter to see the dress exhibit at the Cincinnati Art
Museum on the last day. There was a corset display, of course, and I
explained to her how people think corsets were much less comfortable than
they really were, and how only one fashion was bad, etc. WHILE I WAS SAYING
THIS two women looked at me like I was nuts and said, very loudly, how awful
corsets were. Oh well! Now my daughter wants a coat like one she saw there,
and I think I know what I'm doing for her Easter dress next year.)

But I do have a question. After Captain J.S. rips her corset off, she seems
to have some kind of stays underneath it. (No wonder she was hot.) What was
that supposed to be?

Gail Finke

who may be facing a pirate Halloween next year, if the kids stick to their
current ideas


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Roscelin:

I don't know who made that, but I've seen a web site that offers very
similar ones. Of course, I don't know the URL, but if you search under "Elf
Crowns," or maybe "Elf Coronets," you will probably find it. I was searching
under "Crowns" at the time, and I remember this site had them listed as Elf
Crowns or Coronets.

Gail Finke

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th century mailing list
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Nora wrote:
> Do you intend to cover the entire 17th century or mostly the later half,
> Restoration, et al? I'm more interested in early/mid century.

Well, I do 1638, and I know that at least two other members who have
posted so far do Cavalier period (1620-1640). 

So, in short, yes, the entire century.

K.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: America's Top Model
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 10:32:21 -0500
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The military fashion shoot wasn't supposed to be anything special. It was
the first episode and the girls had just shown up. Some of them have never
modeled before. Anyway, rather than getting a little intro to settle them in
as on the first season, they were stuck on a runway in front of all of these
military guys as a test. They had no prep and did pretty badly. The garden
of eden photo shoot, though, was gorgeous..... it wasn't clothes it was
paint and jewels for an ad campaign. It was very cool.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gail & Scott Finke" <gailscott@eos.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, January 16, 2004 10:15 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: America's Top Model


>
> Penny:
>
> I'm not sure what you're asking for. I don't watch any "reality" TV and so
I
> wouldn't watch that one. I looked at the site you posted, and that was
> enough for me. I really don't understand the appeal of watching a bunch of
> beautiful women call each other names and be nasty to each other. No wait,
I
> guess for many people that IS the appeal. Are you asking about the
clothes?
> The photos? The show itself? The site crashed my computer so I never did
see
> the "Garden of Eden" photos, but I saw the photos of the "girls" doing
some
> kind of military fashion shoot. Nothing special, IMHO.
>
> Gail Finke
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>

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seamstrix@juno.com wrote:

> I'm not sure if I'm the first/only one to come up with the idea, but I did
> notice and post to the list awhile back that the ladies who had that 
 > particular element to their costume were the ones known to have a
 > Catholic rather than Protestant religious affiliation (where any
 > affiliation is known).

Well, I started to pull together a few images/ideas on this. Have to 
abandon it for the moment as the semester is starting, but here it is:

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/whiteband-religious.html

- Hope

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: LOTR - Arwen's headdress
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The Noble Collection seems to have all the headdresses/cornets,
including Eowyn's set I only saw in the extended version of Two Towers:

http://www.noblecollection.com/catalog/catalog.cfm?catid=17 

Just as an FYI: I received the leaf brooch as a present and it is very
nice.  Another friend ordered one of the rings however and was not happy
with it.  Their money was refunded.

Catherine
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] LOTR-Arwen's head-dress
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>     I was curious if anyone knows who the jeweler/metal smith was who
> designed and created the beautiful silver headdress that Arwen was
> wearing at the end of the "Return of the King".

I can't help you, but I've found someone who makes similar jewelry here
http://ambreagorn.free.fr/, you might be interested.
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> Are you asking about the clothes? The photos? The show itself? The
> site crashed my computer so I never did see the "Garden of Eden"
> photos, but I saw the photos of the "girls" doing some kind of
> military fashion shoot. Nothing special, IMHO.

Although I don't watch that sort of show, I did get to see snatches 
of the "Garden of Eden" shoot. They had some pretty fabulous body 
painting on the "girls". I think they might also have ended up in one 
of the magazines like US and People.

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Gail,

I don't get into the bashing aspect of reality TV either.  I wish you could
have seen the Garden of Eden photos.  They were really beautiful.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: America's Top Model
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Kat,

One of the judges from the show is the editor of Jane magazine.  They are
supposed to have an exclusive on the show.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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Subject: [h-cost] Conference on Mid-19th Century Clothing
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We would like to remind everyone and extend a warm invitation to the ladies and gentlemen on the list to attend the tenth annual Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference.  The conference will be held March 5-7, 2004 in Harrisburg, PA.  In celebration of its tenth anniversary, the conference is expanding this year to present a full program of presentations on the clothing and culture of the mid-nineteenth century with programs of interest for both ladies and gentlemen.   Presentations include:

Joint Sessions:
"Satan’s Workshop Aprons: Activities and Attire for Idle Hours" – Juanita Leisch Jensen
"Slop Shops and Swells: The Men’s Clothing Industry in Early America" - Jon Isaacson
"Are We There Yet? A Guide to 1860s Transportation, Whether by Foot, Horse, Buggy or Train" - Maggie Burke.

Program A:
"Translating French Fashions: From Les Modes Illustrees to Godey’s and Peterson’s" - Karin Bohleke
"For Better, For Worse: The Impact of the Civil War on the Traditional Victorian Wedding" - Susan Anthony
"Sheer Delight: Some Observations on the Diaphanous Dresses of the Early Victorian Period" - K. Krewer
"Sisters in Caring: The Story of Two Nurses During the Civil War" – Deborah McBeth
"Variations on a Theme: Sleeve Styles of the Mid-19th Century and How to Reproduce Them" - Carolann Schmitt

Program B:
"News of Great Importance: What Every Citizen Should Know About Life Before ‘The War’" - Susan Lyons Hughes
"Make Yourself at Home: Describing the Material Culture of the Mid-19th Century" - Nicky Hughes
"From Rags to Upward Mobility: Working Class Clothing in Early America" - Jon Isaacson
"Nineteenth Century Hat Making and Felting" - Tim Bender
"Immigration 1855-1865: From Huddled Masses to a Burgeoning Nation" - Maggie and Michael Burke.
 
Friday Pre-Conference Workshops and Focus Sessions:
"What is this Garment Saying to Me: Featuring the Aurora Collection of Men’s Clothing" will offer two different sessions: one on men’s vests (10 AM and 1 PM) and one on men’s coats (3 PM).  Bill Christen and Philip Whiteman will present the sessions which  include a history of the garment, a photographic survey from 1775-1875, and a discussion of terms and textiles.  Participants will then break into groups and be given time to physically examine one or two original garments from 1825-1900.  They will determine “what each garment is saying” about its age, design, provenance and structural characteristics.  After discussing their findings with the group, participants will have the opportunity to review and examine the other garments in the Aurora Collection.  Photographs are permitted.  The Aurora Collection will remain on display throughout the conference so that all of the conference participants have an opportunity to view it.  However, hands-on examination of the articles!
 in the collection is limited to workshop participants.

Jon Isaacson will present two workshops. The first, "The Last ‘Vest’ige of  Color: Men’s Vests in Mid-19th Century America" (10 AM and 3 PM), is a detailed discussion on the garments that were the epitome of color and show.  The workshop will examine the various types of vests, textiles, and a ‘dissection’ on how they were constructed.  An extensive display of original vests will accompany the discussion illustrating the shaping, styles, materials, and construction details.  Stylistic differences will be discussed so that more accurate dating of original garments and photographs can be achieved.  Jon’s second workshop, "Tied Up in Knots: Types of Cravats and How to Tie Them" (1 PM), will focus on the only other item of men’s clothing apart from vests that retained any sense of individuality. Different styles, materials and methods of tying will be discussed as students learn how to tie their own cravat.

Several workshops are of particular interest to women.  Virginia Mescher will present a focus session on period laundresses and laundry techniques entitled "Washday: Hercules Had it Easy!"  The presentation includes a description of how laundry was done, the equipment needed for the job, military laundresses, and how to create a laundry display or impression.  There will also be a display of reproduction and original laundry equipment.

Hands-on workshops include:  "Your Crowning Glory: Hairstyling Techniques 1860-1865" presented by Stacy Hampton; "Ribbon-Framed Hairnets" by Maggie Burke,  "Gauging" by Tee McGuire, and a lecture-demonstration on "Fitting a Bodice" with Carolann Schmitt (3 PM only). 
 
Men and women will be interested in the Beginner (1 PM) and Intermediate "Civil War-Era Dance Workshops" (10AM and 3 PM) with Briant and Karin Bohleke.  No dance experience is necessary; attending with a partner is helpful but not required.

As of this date there is still space available in all of the pre-conference workshops and focus sessions.  Priority registration is given to workshop participants.  Space permitting, registration will be accepted from the general public after 2/02/04. 

Displays:
Each year the Conference presents outstanding displays of original period clothing, accessories, undergarments and other items of material culture.  The 2003 Conference featured what may well have been the largest single exhibit of men’s civilian clothing ever assembled, in addition to extensive displays of garments for women and children. This year’s displays will continue that tradition with new displays of civilian clothing from private collections from throughout the country, including special displays of men’s clothing, women’s clothing from the South, sheer dresses, and artifacts and attire for leisure and recreational activities - including furnishings for a period barroom!

Pre-Conference Activities: 
On Thursday and Friday, conference participants are invited to an open house at Family Heirloom Weavers.  This family-owned firm is renowned for its reproduction textiles.  Visitors will be able to tour the production facilities and watch the looms in operation as they produce in-grain carpet, woven coverlets, and a variety of reproduction period fabrics.  Family Heirloom Weavers is the supplier of the official conference fabric for this year’s speakers and will debut their new line of dress fabrics in the Marketplace at the conference.

Participants visiting the Civil War Museum in Harrisburg will be offered reduced admission fees for their visits during the conference.  

An informal reception Thursday evening at the Conference hotel will offer the opportunity for participants to meet and talk with the speakers and their fellow attendees. The reception will also include special displays, musical entertainment, and a preview of some of the presentations planned for the 2005 Conference.

Complete details on these and other conference activities will be included in the confirmation packet.

Marketplace
Our juried vendor area is open to both conference participants (complimentary admission) and the general public (modest admission fee).  Get a head start of the season by visiting the merchants in the Marketplace.

It’s not too late to register!
As of this date we still have space available for both programs.  Historically, we receive a huge influx of registrations during the next three weeks.  If that pattern is repeated this year, we will very likely sell out.  You are encouraged to register early rather than later to avoid being disappointed.  You may register by mail, e-mail, fax, or phone.  A printable registration form is available on the web site listed below.

The Conference has become one of the premier opportunities to learn more about the clothing and culture of the Civil War era.  Don’t miss out on attending this informative and entertaining event!  Complete details are available at www.genteelarts.com

Please contact me if you need further information.  My apologies to those on several lists for the multiple posts, and my thanks to the list members for your consideration.

Carolann Schmitt
cschmitt@genteelarts.com
www.genteelarts.com
Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 5-7, 2004


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Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 20:52:05 +0000 (GMT)
From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Catalina=20Saravia=20Quicedo?= <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lady Mary Guildfords white "strap"
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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If you've ever worn a Tudor with those nearly
off-the-shoulder sleeves, I think you would probably
wonder if this is just something to hold them up. Many
events I see the famous "Tudor Tug"


 --- Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu> wrote: > 
> 
> seamstrix@juno.com wrote:
> 
> > I'm not sure if I'm the first/only one to come up
> with the idea, but I did
> > notice and post to the list awhile back that the
> ladies who had that 
>  > particular element to their costume were the ones
> known to have a
>  > Catholic rather than Protestant religious
> affiliation (where any
>  > affiliation is known).
> 
> Well, I started to pull together a few images/ideas
> on this. Have to 
> abandon it for the moment as the semester is
> starting, but here it is:
> 
>
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/whiteband-religious.html
> 
> - Hope
> 


=====
Seńora Catalina
Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lady Mary Guildfords white "strap"
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Yeah but that religous affiliation theory is such a nice fun one.....
=============================
On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
=============================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Catalina Saravia Quicedo" <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: January 16, 2004 3:52 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lady Mary Guildfords white "strap"


> If you've ever worn a Tudor with those nearly
> off-the-shoulder sleeves, I think you would probably
> wonder if this is just something to hold them up. Many
> events I see the famous "Tudor Tug"
>
>
>  --- Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu> wrote: >
> >
> > seamstrix@juno.com wrote:
> >
> > > I'm not sure if I'm the first/only one to come up
> > with the idea, but I did
> > > notice and post to the list awhile back that the
> > ladies who had that
> >  > particular element to their costume were the ones
> > known to have a
> >  > Catholic rather than Protestant religious
> > affiliation (where any
> >  > affiliation is known).
> >
> > Well, I started to pull together a few images/ideas
> > on this. Have to
> > abandon it for the moment as the semester is
> > starting, but here it is:
> >
> >
> http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/whiteband-religious.html
> >
> > - Hope
> >
>
>
> =====
> Seńora Catalina
> Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Yahoo! Messenger - Communicate instantly..."Ping"
> your friends today! Download Messenger Now
> http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com/download/index.html
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lady Mary Guildfords white "strap"
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 15:00:18 -0600
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But it could be both, "if you're a good and proper lady of (whatever
church), you don't show that much shoulder..."

cyn
-----
From: "Bice d'Este"
Yeah but that religous affiliation theory is such a nice fun one.....

From: "Catalina Saravia Quicedo"

> If you've ever worn a Tudor with those nearly
> off-the-shoulder sleeves, I think you would probably
> wonder if this is just something to hold them up. Many
> events I see the famous "Tudor Tug"
>
>


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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lady Mary Guildfords white "strap"
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LOL yeah true. Of course showing your shoulder may have gotten you into the
order in the first place.
=============================
On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
For the month of January
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Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cyn Bucheger" <cbucheger@paclp.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: January 16, 2004 4:00 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lady Mary Guildfords white "strap"


> But it could be both, "if you're a good and proper lady of (whatever
> church), you don't show that much shoulder..."
>
> cyn
> -----
> From: "Bice d'Este"
> Yeah but that religous affiliation theory is such a nice fun one.....
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Jan 16 16:39:09 2004
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lady Mary Guildfords white "strap"
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>I'm not sure if I'm the first/only one to come up with the idea, but I did 
>notice and post to the list awhile back that the ladies who had that 
>particular element to their costume were the ones known to have a Catholic 
>rather than Protestant religious affiliation (where any affiliation is 
>known). I have no idea if this is an actual meaning of the white band, or 
>if it's trend created not by any period use, but by our imperfect 
>understanding of the costume and limited pictorial references. So, right 
>now, as far as I know, the white band=religious affiliation is simply an 
>idea (I don't even think it could be dignified with the term 'theory') 
>which needs alot of further research and investigation.

And remember that these bands were on both sides, not just one.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Making Authentic Period Clothing
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>I think a lot of people who are interested in authenticity make their own
>not only because of money, but also because it's one of the only ways the
>can be certain of being "authentic enough" for them.

It's also quicker than waiting for a seamstress who might live in another 
town, and has a life and a waiting list anyway.  And way less expensive, 
since you don't have to pay yourself.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Nebuly headdress: image search
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 15:23:55 -0700
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New word to me, but got a couple of hits on the net for 'nebule' .  I wonder
if you searched in the archives that way?

Cool, new words and ideas!

Sg

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Subject: [h-cost] The Quens Dress
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At Castle Rosenborg, Copenhagen - Denmark there will be an exhibition opening 24rd of january to 13th of june called "The Quens Dress" Showing portraits and accesories, dresses from Queen Sophie, (Christian IV's mother) renaissance time, trough the time to the present days.
Unfortunately there is only danish text on the website for this exhibition:
http://www.rosenborg-slot.dk/asp/menu/menuPages/special.asp?countryID=1 


Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
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Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:
> I can't help you, but I've found someone who makes similar jewelry here
> http://ambreagorn.free.fr/, you might be interested.

	they do wonderful work and people have been very happy with 
their circlets.

	-Judy Mitchell

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] LOTR-Arwen's head-dress
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Judy Mitchell <judymitch@oldwaylane.net> wrote:
> > http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr/
> 
>    In the last day or so someone has put up a sketch on 
> making it, and we've got someone working on a tutorial on it 
> for the website. The sketch would be in the yahoo 
> photoalbum, have to find the original message that say's 
> who's though. Yeah, there's a bit of current interest in it. 
> Although some are saying it's fine chain, someone else is 
> thinking strung sead beads.

>From having just seen the movie, I'd say it's strung seed beads
as well.  They look like silver-lined crystal rocailles, which 
would give the appearance of silver.  The strings didn't move 
like chain, they moved like strings of beads.  And after looking
at various closeup shots, I'd definitely say it's seed beads,
not chain.

Lee M.Thompson-Herbert        lee@retro.com	      KoX 1995, SP4
Head Muso, White Rats Morris, Faultline Morris
Member, Knights of Xenu (1995).  Chaos Monger and Jill of All Trades.
"A head-on collision between Morticia Adams and Martha Stewart"
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nebuly headdress: image search
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Saragrace T. Knauf wrote:
> New word to me, but got a couple of hits on the net for 'nebule' .  I wonder
> if you searched in the archives that way?

Thanks; hadn't thought of an alternate spelling.  Still no luck in the 
archives, but found one website with funeral brasses of same -- but it's 
a particular statue I really want; shows how truly bizarre the style is.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

   "Such virtue hath my pen...."  -Shakespeare, Sonnet 81
        "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!"  --Cynthia V.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nebuly headdress: image search
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> a sculpture of this thing, but I can't seem to find an image of it.  I'm
> hoping one of you might know it:
>
> It is a single figure.  My brain says black stone, but that seems
> unlikely.  The nebuly headdress is like a large honeycombed sausage,
> framing her face in three sides of a square, with a thin veil down the
> back.  She might have her hands in slits in her dress (fichets).  Note
> that this is not the simple ruffled veil of the Arnolfini Wedding style.

	If you have access to Visual History of Costume, 14th and 15th
centuries, there are three tomb effigies pictured that might fit the bill.
I wouldn't exactly describe them as nebuly but a couple of them are
honeycombed.  They're plates 25, 28, and 29.  25 is the only one that's
squared but the fluting on the veiling looks pretty much like the
Arnolfini veiling; not as stylized as the other two.  28 and 29 are
honeycombed (two different styles) but they're inverted U's rather than
being squared.  Dates range from 1360-1380.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for Crochet Patterns
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 02:16:28 -0500
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I found a 1970 crochet pattern book on ebay with hats, vests, etc... even
bikinis.  I snatched it up quickly.  The hat and vest are perfect for that
Love Story look.  YIPPEE!!!!  Although my little 12 y.o. will not get a
crocheted bikini.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
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Nicole,

Is the bathing suit for women or men.  If women, ask Teddy to write me
personally and I can show him some.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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At 08:46 AM 1/16/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Kimiko, how much of the 'Hymo' do you need for finishing your project.  I
>came across a piece in the stash while cleaning, yesterday...
>Kathleen


Hi Kathleen,

I normally use full front and sometimes full back pattern pieces. However, 
I decided to go with the heavy linen for the body, and only use what hair 
canvas I have in the collar, along with the linen, to make sure it is good 
and stiff.

Thanks for your offer!

Kimiko


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pictorial sources for Victorian bathin costumes?
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It's men's costumes he's after, of the trypical Victorian public perception
type I believe

Mel
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From: "Melanie Wilson" <MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] UK Brownie Guide Uniforms
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Has anyone got any pictures of old Brownie Uniforms please ?

Mel

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Subject: [h-cost] Sideless surcoat question
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Those of you who are very familiar with these:

Am I correct in remembering that they never, ever, have a belt *over* 
the front panel?  That the belt is always entirely underneath the 
sideless, even in the early permutations* of the style?

*Early: as the side slit became longer than just "sleeveless" -- waist 
long or longer.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
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   "Such virtue hath my pen...."  -Shakespeare, Sonnet 81
        "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!"  --Cynthia V.
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annora wrote:
> If you have access to Visual History of Costume, 14th and 15th
> centuries, there are three tomb effigies pictured that might fit the bill.

Thank you!  Alas, that book is still on the "need to find" list.  I'll 
keep looking for what I have in my head, argh.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

   "Such virtue hath my pen...."  -Shakespeare, Sonnet 81
        "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!"  --Cynthia V.
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] LOTR-Arwen's head-dress
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Jasmine Watson- www.jasminewatson.com
Also work a lot for Xena and Hercules production company- how she met
Ngila Dickson; the costume designer on both teams.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Roscelin
Sent: Friday, January 16, 2004 1:46 AM
To: H-Costume
Subject: [h-cost] LOTR-Arwen's head-dress

Greetings one and all,

    I was curious if anyone knows who the jeweler/metal smith was who 
designed and created the beautiful silver headdress that Arwen was 
wearing at the end of the "Return of the King".
     As a budding jeweler I found it to be to wonderful for words, but 
would love a closer look at it.  If anyone knows of any websites that 
may show it well, I would love to explore them.

Roscelin


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How old?  I may have a picture somewhere with me in one in the '60's.

Roscelin

Melanie Wilson wrote:

>Has anyone got any pictures of old Brownie Uniforms please ?
>
>Mel
>
>  
>



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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sideless surcoat question
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On Sat, 17 Jan 2004, Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> Am I correct in remembering that they never, ever, have a belt *over*
> the front panel?  That the belt is always entirely underneath the
> sideless, even in the early permutations* of the style?

I've seen just one exception that I can think of. It's a slide I used in
the lecture you saw -- women processing (or dancing?) in sequence, showing
different class levels in descending order. The first one is a queen in a
sideless surcote that at this point is pretty clearly used only for royal
ceremonial wear.

Oddly, I never noticed the belt on the outside
till someone at that
lecture pointed it
out to me!

I got the image from page 134 of "A Medieval Book of Seasons," which has
lousy citation information and inaccurate captions, but very nice
pictures. Here's all I have on it: c. 1450, Hours of the Duchess of
Bourgogne, Chantilly, Musee Conde.

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nebuly headdress: image search
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On Fri, 16 Jan 2004, Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> It is a single figure.  My brain says black stone, but that seems 
> unlikely.  The nebuly headdress is like a large honeycombed sausage, 
> framing her face in three sides of a square, with a thin veil down the 
> back.

Have you ruled out the sculptures shown in Newton (Fashion in the Age of
the Black Prince), pages 96-99? One is a corbel, so it's a head only,
extremely stylized (looks like the surface of a waffle cone). The others
are effigies, more realistically depicted.

--Robin


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>How old?  I may have a picture somewhere with me in one in the '60's.

The older the better but 60s would be great I still have my uniform I guess
that would be late 60s early 70s

Mel

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I think the only men's images I have in the 19th Century are from the 1890s.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 23:03:58 -0500
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Quens Dress
From: Marsha J Hamilton <mjh@pearlandplume.com>
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Bjarne,

Does it say whether there will be an exhibition catalog published for "The
Quens Dress" with pictures of the costumes?

That's a great website.  I love the portrait of Kirsten Munk.  It has the
most ornate peplum or small skirt at the base of the bodice.  But on the
website the eyes look pink.  Does the painting really look like that?

Marsha
--------

on 1/16/04 6:01 PM, Bjarne og Leif Drews at drewscph@post12.tele.dk wrote:

> At Castle Rosenborg, Copenhagen - Denmark there will be an exhibition opening
> 24rd of january to 13th of june called "The Quens Dress" Showing portraits and
> accesories, dresses from Queen Sophie, (Christian IV's mother) renaissance
> time, trough the time to the present days.
> Unfortunately there is only danish text on the website for this exhibition:
> http://www.rosenborg-slot.dk/asp/menu/menuPages/special.asp?countryID=1
> 
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] to peascod or not, 1588 men's doublet
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> > I am making a late 1580s (1588) doublet and venetians for my husband,
> > and I want to be as close to the best fashion as possible. Peascod
> > bellies are the style. However, my husband already has enough girth in
> > his waist area already. I am wondering if I should make the doublet
> > with additional padding, to make his large belly even larger.

I would recommend that you put in at least a single layer of padding.  When
I made the peascod I made two version. Each double was made with the same
pattern, one without any padding with a inexpensive wool and on padded with
a finer wool.  The version with out the padding tended to "collapse" and
look wrinkle down the front. While the other padded doublet kept a smooth
line from around the peascod.  The padding kept it looking better. Yes,
"prosperous" 

Your humble and obediant servant,
David S Mallinak
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Subject: [h-cost] 18th century quilted petticoat
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I am about to start a mid-18th century quilted petticoat.  This is for a 
group of privateers and associated women, so I'm using linen instead of 
silk for the outside layer, and I'm keeping the quilting pattern 
simple.  The middle layer will be Warm and Natural, a thin cotton batting 
recommended to me as being good for showing off fancy quilting 
stitching.  The inner layer will be a funky cotton gingham check of 
approximately quarter inch squares, except where they're bigger, smaller, 
or not square (I suspect it was woven in India).

How many stitches to the inch is the quilting on the originals, or do 
individual examples vary?

Did 18th century petticoat quilters work from the outside or from the 
lining side, or do individual examples vary?  Is it even known which side 
they worked from?

How did they get the quilting patterns onto the fabric?  (If I work from 
the back side, this will be easy using modern methods.)

Do I correctly assume that the quilting is done before the petticoat is 
assembled, as with modern bed quilts and other quilted items?  It would 
sure be easier that way.

How long should I make this garment?  I'm assuming about ankle length, and 
about three yards around.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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>Penny,

Somewhere in the house I have that rose afghan pattern also - I made one 
once upon a time for my MIL.  If I find it reasonably soon I'll scan it and 
send it to you.  BTW - I did mine in pale yellow for the roses and green 
background, because MIL likes yellow roses.

Sandy


"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pictorial sources for Victorian bathin costumes?
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>I think the only men's images I have in the 19th Century are from the 1890s

I think that is more the type Teddy is after the very early ones are just
like stripy shorts, for the 1870s many men still swam in the nude( not a
recommended  recreation on a public beach today !). But Teddy is after a
typical publics eye Victorian bathing suit for men. Most of the ones I am
sending him are 1890s too, but the more the merrier I'm sure

Mel

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jan 18 08:44:54 2004
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From: Kathy Hensley <nanaseven72003@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century quilted petticoat
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Quilting is done before assembly.  When an item is quilted it will change size, shrink up a bit.  Also it should be done from the right side.  There are special pencils for marking your quilting pattern, some wash out and others are air soluble.  Air soluble could be a disadvantage if you don't work in a hurry.  As for size of stitches, they need to be as small as you can master and most importantly, even even even sizes.  If you have a quilt shop in your area they can help a great deal, if not try Joann's, they usually have a quilt department.  

Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote:I am about to start a mid-18th century quilted petticoat. This is for a 
group of privateers and associated women, so I'm using linen instead of 
silk for the outside layer, and I'm keeping the quilting pattern 
simple. The middle layer will be Warm and Natural, a thin cotton batting 
recommended to me as being good for showing off fancy quilting 
stitching. The inner layer will be a funky cotton gingham check of 
approximately quarter inch squares, except where they're bigger, smaller, 
or not square (I suspect it was woven in India).

How many stitches to the inch is the quilting on the originals, or do 
individual examples vary?

Did 18th century petticoat quilters work from the outside or from the 
lining side, or do individual examples vary? Is it even known which side 
they worked from?

How did they get the quilting patterns onto the fabric? (If I work from 
the back side, this will be easy using modern methods.)

Do I correctly assume that the quilting is done before the petticoat is 
assembled, as with modern bed quilts and other quilted items? It would 
sure be easier that way.

How long should I make this garment? I'm assuming about ankle length, and 
about three yards around.

CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century quilted petticoat
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I've never quilted, but....

In one of those books with real 18th century examples ["What Fashion 
Reveals"? "Fashion in Detail"?] there's a quilt by someone "famous" [locally] for her 
quilts....19 stitches per inch.

I assume these beautiful things are quilted and then assembled because the 
patterns seem to fit the panels making up the petticoat and not cross over them. 


As far a length goes, I'd make it adjustable at the waistband, at the 
top....which usually has no batting or quilting and is sometimes an added piece of 
the front material. If you add the top, you can also shape it to accommodate 
underpinnings. They seem to run 3 to 31/2 yards around. I'd choose the fullest, 
but your panels and quilting pattern will be a factor in determining this.

My 2 cents....for a $1500 project!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century quilted petticoat
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Hi Carolyn,

      I don't know if there are any extant linen quilted petticoats 
out there.  I've seen silk and glazed wool.  It sounds like wool is 
more the class you're going for, however there was a trade in 
secondhand clothing and you could wear a silk petticoat that was 
stolen if your character couldn't afford it.  A suit weight wool with 
a slight sheen would be good, and black was a popular color for 
quilted petticoats, and it's an easy color to find in tropical weight 
suit wool.

      Wool is usually the batting, but much better to use cotton than 
a synthetic.  Some synthetic battings can pull through a bit to the 
front while you quilt.

      Originals do seem to have been quilted before they were made up 
into a petticoat.  The quilting does go across the panels of fabric 
except for one seam, and often the quilting lines do not match up 
exactly.

      The patterns change over the decades, usually a fancy portion at 
the bottom and a "filler" of something simple like diamonds or 
scallops at the top.  The proportion of top to bottom changed over 
time, so your choice of a pattern should reflect the time you're 
portraying (or earlier if the petticoat is to appear to have been in 
use for a while).

      Another choice is to make a petticoat from Marsailles cloth, a 
double woven fabric that is still available today.  The quilted look 
without all those months of hand stitching!  Sally Queen's textile 
book contains a sample of the fabric.

      -Carol


>I am about to start a mid-18th century quilted petticoat.  This is 
>for a group of privateers and associated women, so I'm using linen 
>instead of silk for the outside layer, and I'm keeping the quilting 
>pattern simple.  The middle layer will be Warm and Natural, a thin 
>cotton batting recommended to me as being good for showing off fancy 
>quilting stitching.  The inner layer will be a funky cotton gingham 
>check of approximately quarter inch squares, except where they're 
>bigger, smaller, or not square (I suspect it was woven in India).
>
>How many stitches to the inch is the quilting on the originals, or 
>do individual examples vary?
>
>Did 18th century petticoat quilters work from the outside or from 
>the lining side, or do individual examples vary?  Is it even known 
>which side they worked from?
>
>How did they get the quilting patterns onto the fabric?  (If I work 
>from the back side, this will be easy using modern methods.)
>
>Do I correctly assume that the quilting is done before the petticoat 
>is assembled, as with modern bed quilts and other quilted items?  It 
>would sure be easier that way.
>
>How long should I make this garment?  I'm assuming about ankle 
>length, and about three yards around.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century quilted petticoat
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Ooooh! Where have you been getting the glazed wool?? I'd love to know 
your source! (or did I *sniff* misread, and you've only *seen* glazed 
wool in extant garments?)
I've been wanting to do just a few 18th c. garments for the pure 
pleasure of doing something post-16th century, and I've got this lovely 
silk for the outer layer of the petticoat if I could just find the 
glazed wool for the inner layer.....
--sue, who loves to quilt...

Carol Kocian wrote:

> Hi Carolyn,
> 
>      I don't know if there are any extant linen quilted petticoats out 
> there.  I've seen silk and glazed wool.  It sounds like wool is more the 
> class you're going for, however there was a trade in secondhand clothing 
> and you could wear a silk petticoat that was stolen if your character 
> couldn't afford it.  A suit weight wool with a slight sheen would be 
> good, and black was a popular color for quilted petticoats, and it's an 
> easy color to find in tropical weight suit wool.


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jan 18 15:48:18 2004
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With the conversations re museum repros of the last week, I found myself looking through snapshots in my collection that have been taken through the years.

One group is from Plymouth Plantation that became Plimouth Plantation. In fact these photos go back nearly 50 years! The costumes as well as the 'village' are primitive at best and show the stereotypes of fashion as it was conceived by 19th C artists and crafters. Lots of black, obvious modern closures and fittings, and sameness in style. Contrasted with the well researched standards of today that give the sense of real clothing, it is obvious that a museum standard was a developing factor in the styles and variety that the directors took for the development of their presentation. In fact they are bold to continue to say, "we are a work in progress."

I am assuming that Colonial Williamsburg has gone through a similar process. If you look at early brochures readily available, one can observe a change from the movie ideal of costuming that seems evident, to the realistic clothing that relates to class and craft that you will see today.

Moving beyond the stereotypes of historic costuming for any site, and especially for those of us who operate outside of endowed arenas, what do you think  the basic standard for costumes ought to be? A large number of docents and volunteers are just that.Volunteers. They must often supply their own duds or use the closet from which they can try to use, to be in compliance with a costume requirement/suggestion. (It is possible that there can be too many parking attendants or gift shop clerks). Knowing that the 'professional museums " deal with this factor by having a craft guild that is charged with the development for a 'company wardrobe' this is hard to do for smaller individual sites.

As a person who has a theater venue background, but who also has a strong interest in raising the historical conscience regarding clothing appropriate for local Historical Houses, I find myself both elated and frustrated in trying to help them to raise their standards and expectations regarding props and costumes. We are mostly agreed on appropriate fabrics and trims for the class and styles required, but they bend harder when it comes to hair and footwear. (You know, " I don't wear hats and no one is going to see my feet"line.) And there is now the expectation that women will have more or less proper undergarments. My new docents who fall in the under '50' category, have all leaped at the chance to wear a corset, but some of the seasoned ones have resigned.

or, "When I loose a little weight".

So, after getting them to go for lacing, or buttons ,or hooks and eyes and maybe pins, and wear cotton, wool, linen, fustian, silk (even Real) and leather; to pay attention to layers, to seeing the difference between knitted goods and crocheted items, and woven fabric, to for-go multiple ear piercings and modern watches when in costume, how say you for other basics? And, indeed, what are those other basics to be?
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Hi Carolyn,
Now, i would say that you living in Amerika, should make it easy to perhaps go to the library and borrow:
Costume Close-up Clothing Construktion and Pattern 1750 - 1790. By Linda Baumgarten & John Watson.
There are very detailed patterns for 2 quilted petticoats.
The first is a pink silk satin quilted with pink silk thread through woolen batting. The batting was dyed pink so as not to show through the thin silk on the right side. The backing fabric is white worsted, woven in plain weave 28 1/2 inch wide and glazed after weaving. This is probably the fabric called tammy in the eighteenth century. The hem binding is a 1 3/8 inch wide ribbed silk ribbon.
The petticoat is constructed and quilted with running stitches. The seams of the satin were sewn with right sides together. The seams of the backing are overlapped at the sevage and sewn.

The second petticoat in Cream Satin cream glazed worsted backing, undyed woolen batting, silk quilting thread, linen piecing. It is quilted with 12 - 16 running stitches per inch.
The satin was seamed to the desired size, assembled with the batting and backing and quilted as a flat piece. The quilting is worked in cream silk with 12 - 16 running stitches to the inch. As is true of the other petticoat, the batting extends only as far as the quilting.
Hem The raw edges of the silk and the tammy were turned inside toward each other and stitched with running stitches.

I hope this was of some help to you!

Bjarne



Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
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Subject: [h-cost] LoTR cloak question....
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So...I've just seen Return of the King for the 2nd
time, and I want one of the cloaks really badly.
Since my loom resources (I've only got a 24" table
loom) really don't extend far enough to weave myself
an entire cloak, I thought that maybe I could manage a
Hereolfsnes-type hood (like the ones on Marc Carlson's
website).  And I'd do it in the shadow weave pattern
shown in the recent issue of _Handwoven_, which has a
*lovely* article on the LoTR fellowship cloaks.
The wool yarn I'm thinking of using (from
MountainColors) has a recommended sett of 8-10 ends
per inch.  Doesn't say if that's more for tabby weave
or twill, though.  Since the shadow weave is a twill,
could I get away with using a 12-dent reed (which is
what I've got on my rented loom)? or would I be better
off with a 10-dent one? I'm new enough to weaving that
I don't yet know where I can and can't fudge this sort
of thing, and I'll have to special-order the yarn, so
it's not like I could just buy a little and do a
swatch....*sigh*
Any ideas, anyone?
Thanks,
Sue

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      Sorry, Sue, I've only seen glazed wool in extant garments. 
Maybe someone else has seen it available?

      -Carol


>Ooooh! Where have you been getting the glazed wool?? I'd love to 
>know your source! (or did I *sniff* misread, and you've only *seen* 
>glazed wool in extant garments?)
>I've been wanting to do just a few 18th c. garments for the pure 
>pleasure of doing something post-16th century, and I've got this 
>lovely silk for the outer layer of the petticoat if I could just 
>find the glazed wool for the inner layer.....
>--sue, who loves to quilt...
>
>Carol Kocian wrote:
>
>>Hi Carolyn,
>>
>>      I don't know if there are any extant linen quilted petticoats 
>>out there.  I've seen silk and glazed wool.  It sounds like wool is 
>>more the class you're going for, however there was a trade in 
>>secondhand clothing and you could wear a silk petticoat that was 
>>stolen if your character couldn't afford it.  A suit weight wool 
>>with a slight sheen would be good, and black was a popular color 
>>for quilted petticoats, and it's an easy color to find in tropical 
>>weight suit wool.
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century quilted petticoat
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>      I don't know if there are any extant linen quilted petticoats out 
> there.  I've seen silk and glazed wool.  It sounds like wool is more the 
> class you're going for, however there was a trade in secondhand clothing 
> and you could wear a silk petticoat that was stolen if your character 
> couldn't afford it.

It need not have been stolen to have been sold second-hand.

>A suit weight wool with a slight sheen would be good, and black was a 
>popular color for quilted petticoats, and it's an easy color to find in 
>tropical weight suit wool.

I'd roast in black wool in the Summer in California, and I have never seen 
a black original.  Most originals I have seen are either screaming yellow 
or a light green, blue, or pink.  I'm using pale pink for mine.

>      Wool is usually the batting, but much better to use cotton than a 
> synthetic.  Some synthetic battings can pull through a bit to the front 
> while you quilt.

Modern quilters call this 'bearding', when the quilting thread pulls the 
batting thru to the outside of the quilt, and that's another reason they 
suggested the thin cotton batting I will be using.  It's less than a 
quarter of an inch thick.

>      Originals do seem to have been quilted before they were made up into 
> a petticoat.  The quilting does go across the panels of fabric except for 
> one seam, and often the quilting lines do not match up exactly.

I have a few pictures of such an original, tho not to scale, where it shows 
the inside of that one seam.  It doesn't show the outside of that seam, but 
I should be able to get my lines to match up pretty well by careful planning.

>      The patterns change over the decades, usually a fancy portion at the 
> bottom and a "filler" of something simple like diamonds or scallops at 
> the top.  The proportion of top to bottom changed over time, so your 
> choice of a pattern should reflect the time you're portraying (or earlier 
> if the petticoat is to appear to have been in use for a while).

I'm thinking a line of 'feathers' at the bottom and the rest simple 
lozenges.  I don't want to get in over my head with something so fancy I'll 
never finish it.  And it's not silk, and I'm not upper class, so it doesn't 
have to be that fancy anyway.

>      Another choice is to make a petticoat from Marsailles cloth, a 
> double woven fabric that is still available today.  The quilted look 
> without all those months of hand stitching!  Sally Queen's textile book 
> contains a sample of the fabric.

Sorry, but I'm a snob.  It's hand quilting or no quilting.  And I do have 
the fabric for a couple of other petticoats with no quilting, as I am 
reliably informed that I should wear two at all times.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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From: Carol Kocian <aquazoo@patriot.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century quilted petticoat
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>>      I don't know if there are any extant linen quilted petticoats 
>>out there.  I've seen silk and glazed wool.  It sounds like wool is 
>>more the class you're going for, however there was a trade in 
>>secondhand clothing and you could wear a silk petticoat that was 
>>stolen if your character couldn't afford it.
>
>It need not have been stolen to have been sold second-hand.

      Sorry I wasn't clear, it could have been resold or stolen.

>I'd roast in black wool in the Summer in California, and I have 
>never seen a black original.  Most originals I have seen are either 
>screaming yellow or a light green, blue, or pink.  I'm using pale 
>pink for mine.

      Black quilted petticoats are mentioned in runaway descriptions.

>I have a few pictures of such an original, tho not to scale, where 
>it shows the inside of that one seam.  It doesn't show the outside 
>of that seam, but I should be able to get my lines to match up 
>pretty well by careful planning.

      The interesting thing is, some extant quilted petticoats were 
not that carefully planned.

>I'm thinking a line of 'feathers' at the bottom and the rest simple 
>lozenges.  I don't want to get in over my head with something so 
>fancy I'll never finish it.  And it's not silk, and I'm not upper 
>class, so it doesn't have to be that fancy anyway.

      I suggest research as far as the quilt patterns.  I haven't 
looked at them lately & may not be remembering correctly, but I think 
the earlier 18thC petticoats had wider patterned areas and the later 
ones had narrower patterns at the bottom and more "filler".

>>      Another choice is to make a petticoat from Marsailles cloth, a 
>>double woven fabric that is still available today.  The quilted 
>>look without all those months of hand stitching!  Sally Queen's 
>>textile book contains a sample of the fabric.
>
>Sorry, but I'm a snob.  It's hand quilting or no quilting.  And I do 
>have the fabric for a couple of other petticoats with no quilting, 
>as I am reliably informed that I should wear two at all times.

      Marsailles cloth petticoats were worn in the 18thC.  It's not a 
21stC fake.

      -Carol
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century quilted petticoat
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Aw, bummer.  I've been very intrigued by it since I first saw it in the 
couple of books I have on clothing from that time period, and it's not 
exactly a process I can recreate at home! <g>
--sue

Carol Kocian wrote:

> 
>      Sorry, Sue, I've only seen glazed wool in extant garments. Maybe 
> someone else has seen it available?
> 
>      -Carol
> 
> 
>> Ooooh! Where have you been getting the glazed wool?? I'd love to know 
>> your source! (or did I *sniff* misread, and you've only *seen* glazed 
>> wool in extant garments?)
>> I've been wanting to do just a few 18th c. garments for the pure 
>> pleasure of doing something post-16th century, and I've got this 
>> lovely silk for the outer layer of the petticoat if I could just find 
>> the glazed wool for the inner layer.....
>> --sue, who loves to quilt...
>>
>> Carol Kocian wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Carolyn,
>>>
>>>      I don't know if there are any extant linen quilted petticoats 
>>> out there.  I've seen silk and glazed wool.  It sounds like wool is 
>>> more the class you're going for, however there was a trade in 
>>> secondhand clothing and you could wear a silk petticoat that was 
>>> stolen if your character couldn't afford it.  A suit weight wool with 
>>> a slight sheen would be good, and black was a popular color for 
>>> quilted petticoats, and it's an easy color to find in tropical weight 
>>> suit wool.
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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Thank you all for your suggestions and information.  Corsets are  much more
interesting and adaptable than I had thought;  also, the info. on gender
parity was 'news' - maybe we can start a revival of men's corsets? ;->.  So
now I need to spend some time absorbing and sythesizing;  but unfortunately
the rest of my life is interfering with my costume-making.  Sigh.  When
everything settles down again (June?) I'll be back...

Suzanne


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] LOTR-Arwen's head-dress
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 22:19:27 +1300
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On Fri, 16 Jan 2004 20:45, Roscelin wrote:
>     I was curious if anyone knows who the jeweler/metal smith was who
> designed and created the beautiful silver headdress that Arwen was
> wearing at the end of the "Return of the King".

The jeweller for the production is Jasmine Watson, so I'd guess she'd 
have done that headdress.

While I like Jasmine Watson's work (quite a lot, actually), her website 
at http://www.jasminewatson.com/home/homeFrameset.html is frustrating: 
frames, broken links and not yet any images from RotK. :-)

Cheers,
  Jennifer

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Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 00:07:52 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century quilted petticoat
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>>I'd roast in black wool in the Summer in California, and I have never 
>>seen a black original.  Most originals I have seen are either screaming 
>>yellow or a light green, blue, or pink.  I'm using pale pink for mine.
>
>      Black quilted petticoats are mentioned in runaway descriptions.

I happen never to have heard of such a thing.  So mine wasn't planned to be 
that colour.  The darkest thing I am wearing will be some indigo blue 
striped stuff I found.

>      The interesting thing is, some extant quilted petticoats were not 
> that carefully planned.

Interesting that the planning should be off when the stitching is so finely 
done.

>>I'm thinking a line of 'feathers' at the bottom and the rest simple 
>>lozenges.  I don't want to get in over my head with something so fancy 
>>I'll never finish it.  And it's not silk, and I'm not upper class, so it 
>>doesn't have to be that fancy anyway.
>
>      I suggest research as far as the quilt patterns.  I haven't looked 
> at them lately & may not be remembering correctly, but I think the 
> earlier 18thC petticoats had wider patterned areas and the later ones had 
> narrower patterns at the bottom and more "filler".

I'm trying for about 1750-70.  I've seen some really fancy quilting on some 
earlier petticoats, where the work looks almost corded.  I'm not that great 
of an embroiderer unless I can count threads and do cross stitch.  So I'm 
planning to do about a foot-wide border of 'feathers' and nothing else but 
the lozenges.  I've seen one undated original done this way.

>>Sorry, but I'm a snob.  It's hand quilting or no quilting.  And I do have 
>>the fabric for a couple of other petticoats with no quilting, as I am 
>>reliably informed that I should wear two at all times.
>
>      Marsailles cloth petticoats were worn in the 18thC.  It's not a 
> 21stC fake.

That may be, but it's me who's the snob.  I can't afford really nice 
fabric, like silk and brocade, so I usually spend the time doing lots of 
visible handwork, which I can afford.  At CostumeCons I never won big 
presentation awards but I did seem to consistently win workmanship awards 
for embroidery and detail work.  So I really 'need' a hand quilted 
petticoat for this costume, because it's the only place I have to show 
off.  If you can't dazzle them with your brilliance, baffle them with 
embroidery.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: [h-cost] Lions of Fashion Source?
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Does anyone know where you can get this book in the US?  I have a source for
it overseas, but it costs about as much  to send it as the book itself.

 

Sg

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Lloyd Mitchell wrote:

> So, after getting them to go for lacing, or buttons ,or hooks and eyes and maybe pins, and wear cotton, wool, linen, fustian, silk (even Real) and leather; to pay attention to layers, to seeing the difference between knitted goods and crocheted items, and woven fabric, to for-go multiple ear piercings and modern watches when in costume, how say you for other basics? And, indeed, what are those other basics to be?

If you've gotten that far, then things like modern hair (even without a 
hat), makeup, and nail polish really start to stand out. After that, 
posture and pose and attitude. If you're working with actors, the last 
should be easier, I'd think.



Dawn




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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century quilted petticoat
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>>      Originals do seem to have been quilted before they were made up 
>> into a petticoat.  The quilting does go across the panels of fabric 
>> except for one seam, and often the quilting lines do not match up 
>> exactly.
> 
> 
> I have a few pictures of such an original, tho not to scale, where it 
> shows the inside of that one seam.  It doesn't show the outside of that 
> seam, but I should be able to get my lines to match up pretty well by 
> careful planning.

One of the things you can do is to finish the quilting to within an inch 
or two of the seam, sew the seam, and then complete the quilting over 
the seam. This will help get your lines to match up a little better.

Quilting stitches didn't necessarily have to be tiny, it was more 
important to have them consistent and straight. Obviously, women who 
could do very fine stitching and trapunto would get work making the 
higher priced/ higher quality ladies garments. Lower class women would 
wear more 'serviceable' garments.



Dawn


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Subject: [h-cost] Digitzing Pads for Embroidery Machines
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Greetings All -

I am sorry that this is bit a off topic.  But i know there are quite a few 
people out there who use Embroidery Machines.  And, I was wondering if anyone 
out there used a digitizing pad instead of a mouse when working with their 
Digitizing Software.  I am trying to decide if I want to spend the money to buy 
one, but nobody (including Brother, I am using PE-Design) knows if it will work.

Kit   

Kit

If you walk a mile in someone else's shoes, do you get to keep them? - 
Kenneth Cole
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From: "Formo, Nathan" <formo@lynchburg.edu>
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Subject: [h-cost] Cloaks and hoods question
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Sorry to cross post to both lists but I forget where I saw this info
originally.

It took me until the middle of last week to catch up on all my email lists
from over the Christmas break.  Somewhere in there I saw a post with a side
comment about how hoods aren't period on most types of cloaks.  I thought I
saved that email but I can't find it now.  So my question is of course, is
this true or partly true or false?

One of my projects over Christmas was making a new cloak.  I've got a nice
WARM circle cloak now.  3-layers.  Med weight black wool, cheap fairly thin
cotton, then green cotton flannel for the inner layer.  I won't be cold
wearing this.  I've completed most of it but ran out of time to finish the
trim and the hood.

So I want to know how authentic it is to have a hood on a full circle cloak.
If a hood is not correct then what would most men have worn to keep the head
warm?  I usually don't care for hats so being hoodless won't bother me too
much but there have been times around a camp fire that I appreciate any
extra layer for my head I can find.  I don't have an exact period I portray.
Too many fun clothes to settle on just one time period.  (Though with
fencing and dance I usually end up in doublets)

Thanks for any help you can offer.

Bjorn Arnaldsson
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Can anyone tell me what oilcloth was made of? Is there anyway to make my own
authentic oilcloth?

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot
BRF FOF; Guilde of St. Lawrence

A room without books is like a body without a soul
---Cicero

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************

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Formo, Nathan wrote:
> So I want to know how authentic it is to have a hood on a full circle cloak.
> If a hood is not correct then what would most men have worn to keep the head
> warm?

A separate hood.  They're great!  You can wear them with a cloak, or 
without, when it's not terribly cold but you need head protection or 
warmth.  (I have a bald friend who has a linen one for the summer.  He 
loves it.)

There are several pages with info on hoods.  Marc Carlson's at 
<http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/hoods.html> and my 
own at http://www.virtue.to/articles/hoodlum.html

> I don't have an exact period I portray.
> Too many fun clothes to settle on just one time period.  (Though with
> fencing and dance I usually end up in doublets)

I can't speak for after about 1440, but up until that time, it seems to 
be mostly separate cloaks and hoods.  (And for the tolkein readers, this 
seems to be what he means by Thorin & Co.'s "best party hoods" which 
they hang in Bilbo's hallway.  And hoods are excellent for the ski slopes.)

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

   "Such virtue hath my pen...."  -Shakespeare, Sonnet 81
        "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!"  --Cynthia V.
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Wow, sounds yummy! I have a full circle cloak of brown corduroy lined
with velour robe fleece (done quarterly in Pink and navy- it was on sale
cheap!) it has a hood simply because I like them- this one is big enough
to cover head and face and right on down to the cloak clasp if I tip my
head forward.
I can't claim it is period but it sure is useful! The fake sheepskin
trim around the front opening is a nice decorative contrast, I think.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Formo, Nathan
Sent: Monday, January 19, 2004 3:32 PM
To: 'h-costume@indra.com'; 'sca-garb@yahoogroups.com'
Subject: [h-cost] Cloaks and hoods question

Sorry to cross post to both lists but I forget where I saw this info
originally.

One of my projects over Christmas was making a new cloak.  I've got a
nice
WARM circle cloak now.  3-layers.  Med weight black wool, cheap fairly
thin
cotton, then green cotton flannel for the inner layer.  I won't be cold
wearing this.  I've completed most of it but ran out of time to finish
the
trim and the hood.

So I want to know how authentic it is to have a hood on a full circle
cloak.
If a hood is not correct then what would most men have worn to keep the
head
warm?  I usually don't care for hats so being hoodless won't bother me
too
much but there have been times around a camp fire that I appreciate any
extra layer for my head I can find.  I don't have an exact period I
portray.
Too many fun clothes to settle on just one time period.  (Though with
fencing and dance I usually end up in doublets)

Thanks for any help you can offer.

Bjorn Arnaldsson
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 Early oilcloth looked quite stylish. It came in solid colors as well as in
geometric patterns and ornate designs that mimicked fancy damasks. But it
wasn't actually fancy at all. It was made from heavy canvas or cotton fabric
that was rendered waterproof with coatings of linseed oil and paint.
   Today, it is difficult to find true oilcloth. When it fell out of style,
most of what remained was discarded.
   Modern versions, however, which are made of plastic or vinyl woven with
cotton, are just as versatile and long-lasting. Their cut edges won't fray,
which makes them especially easy to work with.
From: http://www.detnews.com/2002/decorating/0208/26/e06-558227.htm

Definition: cloth rendered waterproof by treatment with oil or paint, and
used for marking garments, covering tables, shelves, floors, etc.
So you know...modern oilcloth is the stuff they make tablecloths from. I
would think simply treating some canvas with linseed will be fine. It gets
translucent when you do this. I've only done it once myself to treat a
canvas floor cloth.

B~
=============================
On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
Heraldry Books http://snipurl.com/3wh4
For the month of January
list people get $2 off shipping
Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
www.swapking.com/hats
=============================
> Can anyone tell me what oilcloth was made of? Is there anyway to make my
own
> authentic oilcloth?
>
> **********************
> Rebecca Schmitt
> aka Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot
> BRF FOF; Guilde of St. Lawrence
>
> A room without books is like a body without a soul
> ---Cicero
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] oilcloth
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From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue+dated+1090103235.c8071a@thibault.org>
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Bice d'Este wrote:
> It was made from heavy canvas or cotton fabric
> that was rendered waterproof with coatings of linseed oil and paint.

Years ago... hmm, must have been about 1990, there was a fad of 
(allegedly) Australian [sheep] rancher's coats for men.  They were a bit 
like a greatcoat, in that they had an elbow-length capelet over 
something rather like a loose trenchcoat.

A cow-orker bought one; it came with extra oil for re-treating it when 
it stopped repelling water, because it was supposedly "real" oilcloth. 
It smelled a bit like a quality canvas tarp; a smell I believe is clean 
'machine oil' but I'm not sure of the technical term for the type of oil 
used.  Since I don't know what linseed oil smells like, I couldn't say 
if that was what the oil used was, or not.  It did not feel oily in any 
way, but almost like it was faintly damp or cool to the touch.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

   "Such virtue hath my pen...."  -Shakespeare, Sonnet 81
        "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!"  --Cynthia V.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] oilcloth
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We still have waxed jackets here and you can buy the fabric (UK)

Mel

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jan 19 17:57:36 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] oilcloth
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Hi Cynthia,

My husband has one - they're definitely used by Australian farmers (most
popular brand is Driza-Bone). Them, an Akubra Hat (felt) and a pair of RM
Williams boots (one seams at back only, no leaks) are indespensible. Mind
you, with the drought we've been suffering these last few years, no-one's
been needing to get them out much.

They're not coated with linseed oil. Too thick. The Drizabone oil is a
secret formulation, so I can't help with that. It does stink, though.

Glenda.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cynthia Virtue" <cvirtue+dated+1090103235.c8071a@thibault.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2004 9:31 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] oilcloth


> Bice d'Este wrote:
> > It was made from heavy canvas or cotton fabric
> > that was rendered waterproof with coatings of linseed oil and paint.
>
> Years ago... hmm, must have been about 1990, there was a fad of
> (allegedly) Australian [sheep] rancher's coats for men.  They were a bit
> like a greatcoat, in that they had an elbow-length capelet over
> something rather like a loose trenchcoat.
>
> A cow-orker bought one; it came with extra oil for re-treating it when
> it stopped repelling water, because it was supposedly "real" oilcloth.
> It smelled a bit like a quality canvas tarp; a smell I believe is clean
> 'machine oil' but I'm not sure of the technical term for the type of oil
> used.  Since I don't know what linseed oil smells like, I couldn't say
> if that was what the oil used was, or not.  It did not feel oily in any
> way, but almost like it was faintly damp or cool to the touch.
>
> -- 
> Cynthia Virtue and/or
> Cynthia du Pré Argent
>
>    "Such virtue hath my pen...."  -Shakespeare, Sonnet 81
>         "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!"  --Cynthia V.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] oilcloth
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I have seen oilcloth used as window covering in old huhnt lodges up in the
adirondacks when I was a kid. Maybe 85 or so. (was born in 72) and after a
while there is no smell. But when you put fresh oil on to make them more
translucent it smells. blech.
=============================
On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
=============================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cynthia Virtue" <cvirtue+dated+1090103235.c8071a@thibault.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: January 19, 2004 5:31 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] oilcloth


> Bice d'Este wrote:
> > It was made from heavy canvas or cotton fabric
> > that was rendered waterproof with coatings of linseed oil and paint.
>
> Years ago... hmm, must have been about 1990, there was a fad of
> (allegedly) Australian [sheep] rancher's coats for men.  They were a bit
> like a greatcoat, in that they had an elbow-length capelet over
> something rather like a loose trenchcoat.
>
> A cow-orker bought one; it came with extra oil for re-treating it when
> it stopped repelling water, because it was supposedly "real" oilcloth.
> It smelled a bit like a quality canvas tarp; a smell I believe is clean
> 'machine oil' but I'm not sure of the technical term for the type of oil
> used.  Since I don't know what linseed oil smells like, I couldn't say
> if that was what the oil used was, or not.  It did not feel oily in any
> way, but almost like it was faintly damp or cool to the touch.
>
> -- 
> Cynthia Virtue and/or
> Cynthia du Pré Argent
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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References: <1D343D1FCF315A4BAF27482263DDD45E4F055C@exchange.lynchburg.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cloaks and hoods question
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 22:57:09 +0100
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Dear Bjorn.

Now i dont remember your original post, but are you referring to 18th
century cloaks for gentlemen?
If that is the case, it is right, that they did not use a hood.
Only a collar attached to the cirkle cloak.

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Formo, Nathan" <formo@lynchburg.edu>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>; <sca-garb@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 19, 2004 10:32 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Cloaks and hoods question


> Sorry to cross post to both lists but I forget where I saw this info
> originally.
>
> It took me until the middle of last week to catch up on all my email lists
> from over the Christmas break.  Somewhere in there I saw a post with a
side
> comment about how hoods aren't period on most types of cloaks.  I thought
I
> saved that email but I can't find it now.  So my question is of course, is
> this true or partly true or false?
>
> One of my projects over Christmas was making a new cloak.  I've got a nice
> WARM circle cloak now.  3-layers.  Med weight black wool, cheap fairly
thin
> cotton, then green cotton flannel for the inner layer.  I won't be cold
> wearing this.  I've completed most of it but ran out of time to finish the
> trim and the hood.
>
> So I want to know how authentic it is to have a hood on a full circle
cloak.
> If a hood is not correct then what would most men have worn to keep the
head
> warm?  I usually don't care for hats so being hoodless won't bother me too
> much but there have been times around a camp fire that I appreciate any
> extra layer for my head I can find.  I don't have an exact period I
portray.
> Too many fun clothes to settle on just one time period.  (Though with
> fencing and dance I usually end up in doublets)
>
> Thanks for any help you can offer.
>
> Bjorn Arnaldsson
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] oilcloth
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 17:22:22 -0600
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Mel, what is the fabric called, and do you have any online retail
distributors?


> We still have waxed jackets here and you can buy the fabric (UK)
>
> Mel
>
**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot
BRF FOF; Guilde of St. Lawrence

A room without books is like a body without a soul
---Cicero

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************

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Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 15:39:25 -0800
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cloaks and hoods question
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You might try making a separate hood. Another idea would be to make Ye
Olde medieval coif (cap). Mine's cotton lined with flannel--it's lovely
on those iffy days.

Arlys

On Mon, 19 Jan 2004 16:32:28 -0500 "Formo, Nathan" <formo@lynchburg.edu>
writes:
> Sorry to cross post to both lists but I forget where I saw this info
> originally.
> 
> It took me until the middle of last week to catch up on all my email 
> lists
> from over the Christmas break.  Somewhere in there I saw a post with 
> a side
> comment about how hoods aren't period on most types of cloaks.  I 
> thought I
> saved that email but I can't find it now.  So my question is of 
> course, is
> this true or partly true or false?
> 
> One of my projects over Christmas was making a new cloak.  I've got 
> a nice
> WARM circle cloak now.  3-layers.  Med weight black wool, cheap 
> fairly thin
> cotton, then green cotton flannel for the inner layer.  I won't be 
> cold
> wearing this.  I've completed most of it but ran out of time to 
> finish the
> trim and the hood.
> 
> So I want to know how authentic it is to have a hood on a full 
> circle cloak.
> If a hood is not correct then what would most men have worn to keep 
> the head
> warm?  I usually don't care for hats so being hoodless won't bother 
> me too
> much but there have been times around a camp fire that I appreciate 
> any
> extra layer for my head I can find.  I don't have an exact period I 
> portray.
> Too many fun clothes to settle on just one time period.  (Though 
> with
> fencing and dance I usually end up in doublets)
> 
> Thanks for any help you can offer.
> 
> Bjorn Arnaldsson
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] museumvstheater costume
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 19:58:28 -0500
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The point of attitude is a good one.  But re actors, as this is not a first
person site, most of the volunteers are not the 'acting type'. I guess,
however, that the same comments I might give actors before going on stage,
especially among amateurs, would be understood.  For women. I at least can
sometimes persuade them to don some sort of hair covering. It was
interesting to see the effect of being in a larger crowd at a festive event
that they were taking note as to which costumes were more 'real' that
others.  I can only hope that they were putting themselves in the
'judgement'.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 19, 2004 10:49 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] museumvstheater costume


> Lloyd Mitchell wrote:
>
> > So, after getting them to go for lacing, or buttons ,or hooks and eyes
and maybe pins, and wear cotton, wool, linen, fustian, silk (even Real) and
leather; to pay attention to layers, to seeing the difference between
knitted goods and crocheted items, and woven fabric, to for-go multiple ear
piercings and modern watches when in costume, how say you for other basics?
And, indeed, what are those other basics to be?
>
> If you've gotten that far, then things like modern hair (even without a
> hat), makeup, and nail polish really start to stand out. After that,
> posture and pose and attitude. If you're working with actors, the last
> should be easier, I'd think.
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
>
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] oilcloth
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If it is the 'look' and not the real thing, I have found that plastic picnic
tablecloths with the flannel backing can be sprayed suitable colors and make
a 'fair showing' when stitched up in period styles.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 19, 2004 4:59 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] oilcloth


> Early oilcloth looked quite stylish. It came in solid colors as well as in
> geometric patterns and ornate designs that mimicked fancy damasks. But it
> wasn't actually fancy at all. It was made from heavy canvas or cotton
fabric
> that was rendered waterproof with coatings of linseed oil and paint.
>    Today, it is difficult to find true oilcloth. When it fell out of
style,
> most of what remained was discarded.
>    Modern versions, however, which are made of plastic or vinyl woven with
> cotton, are just as versatile and long-lasting. Their cut edges won't
fray,
> which makes them especially easy to work with.
> From: http://www.detnews.com/2002/decorating/0208/26/e06-558227.htm
>
> Definition: cloth rendered waterproof by treatment with oil or paint, and
> used for marking garments, covering tables, shelves, floors, etc.
> So you know...modern oilcloth is the stuff they make tablecloths from. I
> would think simply treating some canvas with linseed will be fine. It gets
> translucent when you do this. I've only done it once myself to treat a
> canvas floor cloth.
>
> B~
> =============================
> On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
> Heraldry Books http://snipurl.com/3wh4
> For the month of January
> list people get $2 off shipping
> Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
> www.swapking.com/hats
> =============================
> > Can anyone tell me what oilcloth was made of? Is there anyway to make my
> own
> > authentic oilcloth?
> >
> > **********************
> > Rebecca Schmitt
> > aka Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot
> > BRF FOF; Guilde of St. Lawrence
> >
> > A room without books is like a body without a soul
> > ---Cicero
> _______________________________________________
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>
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] oilcloth
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So'westers were also made of oil cloth.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cynthia Virtue" <cvirtue+dated+1090103235.c8071a@thibault.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 19, 2004 5:31 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] oilcloth


> Bice d'Este wrote:
> > It was made from heavy canvas or cotton fabric
> > that was rendered waterproof with coatings of linseed oil and paint.
>
> Years ago... hmm, must have been about 1990, there was a fad of
> (allegedly) Australian [sheep] rancher's coats for men.  They were a bit
> like a greatcoat, in that they had an elbow-length capelet over
> something rather like a loose trenchcoat.
>
> A cow-orker bought one; it came with extra oil for re-treating it when
> it stopped repelling water, because it was supposedly "real" oilcloth.
> It smelled a bit like a quality canvas tarp; a smell I believe is clean
> 'machine oil' but I'm not sure of the technical term for the type of oil
> used.  Since I don't know what linseed oil smells like, I couldn't say
> if that was what the oil used was, or not.  It did not feel oily in any
> way, but almost like it was faintly damp or cool to the touch.
>
> -- 
> Cynthia Virtue and/or
> Cynthia du Pré Argent
>
>    "Such virtue hath my pen...."  -Shakespeare, Sonnet 81
>         "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!"  --Cynthia V.
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Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 17:37:03 -0800 (PST)
From: Lil Sorepaws <sorepaws@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Image Re-Search - Anyone know who where when this guy is
	from?
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Hi .. Pardon the slightly offtopic post (I am rarely de-lurking) but I
need to get some information about a picture that one of my housemates
gave me .. basically we will be making another housemate the garb but the
picture is very hard to see from and I was hoping that either someone out
there had a source for a more clear/bigger copy of the image or could tell
me what kind of hat/boots and jewelry the guy was wearing and maybe point
out a good place to find similar items pictures.  I'm driving myself nuts
trying to find this info based only on the picture and the fact that the
character in it is italian and probably from the early 1600's ... I hope
someone can help .. the image can be found at :

http://www.cranky-kitty.com/guyfie.jpg

Many thanks in advance ~~~~

- Lil (the lost and confused one again ;)
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] oilcloth
References: <000501c3ded3$24cebc60$f7a8b944@mad.chartermi.net>	<BAY1-DAV27M8YcEdqqA0002cf18@hotmail.com>
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Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> Bice d'Este wrote:
>
>> It was made from heavy canvas or cotton fabric
>> that was rendered waterproof with coatings of linseed oil and paint.
>
>
> Years ago... hmm, must have been about 1990, there was a fad of 
> (allegedly) Australian [sheep] rancher's coats for men.  They were a 
> bit like a greatcoat, in that they had an elbow-length capelet over 
> something rather like a loose trenchcoat.
>
> A cow-orker bought one; it came with extra oil for re-treating it when 
> it stopped repelling water, because it was supposedly "real" oilcloth. 
> It smelled a bit like a quality canvas tarp; a smell I believe is 
> clean 'machine oil' but I'm not sure of the technical term for the 
> type of oil used.  Since I don't know what linseed oil smells like, I 
> couldn't say if that was what the oil used was, or not.  It did not 
> feel oily in any way, but almost like it was faintly damp or cool to 
> the touch.
>

I still have one, but no longer have the tin of stuff to re waterproof 
it. I believe it was partially beeswax and maybe linseed oil. Was really 
waterproof.

liz young


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jan 19 21:00:01 2004
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Subject: [h-cost] La Mode Bagatelle Regency pattern - experiences?
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Has anyone on the list ever worked with the La Mode Bagatelle Regency
wardrobe pattern? I am currently using this for the first time and am having
some real frustrations with it!

I am fitting it over the Mantua Maker 1800-1820 stays, which fit perfectly
and create the correct "pushed up" silhouette, but this pattern seems to be
designed to be worn with modern undergarments. I say this because the front
of the dress plunges *extremely* low - 3" or more below the top edge of my
stays. I've had to take it up around 3" of the front strap and 1 1/2" in the
back just to make the neckline fall correctly.

Also, where is the back waist supposed to fall during this time period? The
adjustments I made place the back waist just about even with my shoulder
blades - I know waistlines are high, but *that* high? It's also rather
baggy, yet taking up the straps has made the armseyes extremely tight. Am I
not placing the shoulder seam correctly?

Also, does this pattern run large or small? I cut for a size 12, but the way
it is fitting I'm suspecting I need a size 10 in the back and a size 6 in
the front to make it look like the pattern envelope!

Sorry to pummel with so many questions, but I feel like I am short of time
and money - I cannot go out and get another company's pattern, so I must
make La Mode Bagatelle work. Any suggestions anyone can offer will be
appreciated beyond belief!!

Thanks in advance,

Allison T.

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Lil Sorepaws wrote:
> I'm driving myself nuts
> trying to find this info based only on the picture and the fact that the
> character in it is italian and probably from the early 1600's ... I hope
> someone can help .. the image can be found at :
> 
> http://www.cranky-kitty.com/guyfie.jpg

That is almost certainly the Duke of Burgundy, circa 1450, maybe a bit 
later.  Not sure exactly which Duke, though.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

   "Such virtue hath my pen...."  -Shakespeare, Sonnet 81
        "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!"  --Cynthia V.
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> That is almost certainly the Duke of Burgundy, circa 1450, maybe a bit
> later.  Not sure exactly which Duke, though.

	Philip the Good.  Cite I have is
Flemish, 1448.  MS 9242, fol. Ir. Bibliotheque Royale de Belgique,
Brussels

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----- Original Message -----
From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
> Does anyone know where you can get this book in the US?  I have a source
for
> it overseas, but it costs about as much  to send it as the book itself.
> Sg

Try this
http://dogbert.abebooks.com/abe/BookDetailsPL?bi=202279862 out of UK.
They have the book for US$ 83.30 and list shipping's as $9.17 slow to $15.90
5 to 10 days
    I hope this helps,
Sayyida Dinah bint Ismai'l


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Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 18:42:06 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century quilted petticoat
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>>>      Originals do seem to have been quilted before they were made up 
>>> into a petticoat.  The quilting does go across the panels of fabric 
>>> except for one seam, and often the quilting lines do not match up exactly.
>>
>>I have a few pictures of such an original, tho not to scale, where it 
>>shows the inside of that one seam.  It doesn't show the outside of that 
>>seam, but I should be able to get my lines to match up pretty well by 
>>careful planning.
>
>One of the things you can do is to finish the quilting to within an inch 
>or two of the seam, sew the seam, and then complete the quilting over the 
>seam. This will help get your lines to match up a little better.

That was my idea too.

>Quilting stitches didn't necessarily have to be tiny, it was more 
>important to have them consistent and straight. Obviously, women who could 
>do very fine stitching and trapunto would get work making the higher 
>priced/ higher quality ladies garments. Lower class women would wear more 
>'serviceable' garments.

My sentiments exactly.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] oilcloth
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>>Years ago... hmm, must have been about 1990, there was a fad of 
>>(allegedly) Australian [sheep] rancher's coats for men.  They were a bit 
>>like a greatcoat, in that they had an elbow-length capelet over something 
>>rather like a loose trenchcoat.

>I still have one, but no longer have the tin of stuff to re waterproof it. 
>I believe it was partially beeswax and maybe linseed oil. Was really 
>waterproof.

My Sweetie has one of these, tho it never came with a tin of 
anything.  It's still waterproof, tho he wads it up and it's full of 
wrinkles.  I grew up in California, so I have umbrellas only, no raincoats.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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   So were proper pommel slickers, which were the coats worn by American
cowboys (As opposed to those outback coats so often worn now).  Pommel
slickers were and are large oilskin coats worn over real clothes (they
provide no warmth) but are large enough to protect the saddle of the horse
as well.  Mine is new made and it is still made of linseed oil colored with
yellow ochre like they were originally.  By the way, this is theory, but I
suspect that it is due to the pigments added to oilcloth for rain wear in
the past that modern rain wear tend towards black or yellow.  The same
colors that period oilcloth raingear tended to be.

Ron Carnegie
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Lloyd Mitchell
> Sent: Monday, January 19, 2004 8:05 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] oilcloth
>
>
> So'westers were also made of oil cloth.
> Kathleen
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Cynthia Virtue" <cvirtue+dated+1090103235.c8071a@thibault.org>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Monday, January 19, 2004 5:31 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] oilcloth
>
>
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>Mel, what is the fabric called, and do you have any online retail
distributors?

Waxed fabric, I think, croft mills carry it from time to time, it is very
efficient and used is equine circles a lot. Another waterproof fabric croft
has at the moment is a MOD Navy wool, I've book about 20m and it is the most
waterproof fabric ever you can run at tap over it and it just runs off.

Hartleys might be woth a try to. Both their websites are very poor but you
can email them!

Good luck, if they are no good there are some other possible sources let me
know

Croft
E-mail Address(es):
  info@croftmill.co.uk

Hartleys
E-mail Address(es):
  sales@hartleysmailorder.co.uk (this gives herbal products but it is the
right address !)

Mel




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cloaks and hoods question
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Thanks everyone for the info!  I'll probably go with the liri-pipe style
hood.  I've been thinking about also doing one to attach to my fencing mask
instead of wearing a seperate hood under the mask.  Looks like I'll finish
one for my cloak as a first try and maybe eventually get one attached to my
mask as well.

Thanks again for the quick responses.  Hopefully in a month or so when I get
it finished I can post pics.

Bjorn Arnaldsson
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <03f001c3deee$c63c01f0$336f6f6f@systemsfirm.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] La Mode Bagatelle Regency pattern - experiences?
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 09:15:39 -0500
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Did you take your measurements wearing your undergarments and  compare them
to the pattern... not the chart, but the actual pieces? That is what I do
before making my muslin. I never pay attention to the size chart or the
size.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "A.Thurman" <athurman@cybergal.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 19, 2004 7:45 PM
Subject: [h-cost] La Mode Bagatelle Regency pattern - experiences?


> Has anyone on the list ever worked with the La Mode Bagatelle Regency
> wardrobe pattern? I am currently using this for the first time and am
having
> some real frustrations with it!
>
> I am fitting it over the Mantua Maker 1800-1820 stays, which fit perfectly
> and create the correct "pushed up" silhouette, but this pattern seems to
be
> designed to be worn with modern undergarments. I say this because the
front
> of the dress plunges *extremely* low - 3" or more below the top edge of my
> stays. I've had to take it up around 3" of the front strap and 1 1/2" in
the
> back just to make the neckline fall correctly.
>
> Also, where is the back waist supposed to fall during this time period?
The
> adjustments I made place the back waist just about even with my shoulder
> blades - I know waistlines are high, but *that* high? It's also rather
> baggy, yet taking up the straps has made the armseyes extremely tight. Am
I
> not placing the shoulder seam correctly?
>
> Also, does this pattern run large or small? I cut for a size 12, but the
way
> it is fitting I'm suspecting I need a size 10 in the back and a size 6 in
> the front to make it look like the pattern envelope!
>
> Sorry to pummel with so many questions, but I feel like I am short of time
> and money - I cannot go out and get another company's pattern, so I must
> make La Mode Bagatelle work. Any suggestions anyone can offer will be
> appreciated beyond belief!!
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Allison T.
>
> _______________________________________________
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>
>

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	<400C8C15.6050404@thibault.org>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Image Re-Search - Anyone know who where when this
	guyis	from?
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 09:18:41 -0500
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I am almost certain it is Phillip
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cynthia Virtue" <cvirtue+dated+1090115862.aa2eab@thibault.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 19, 2004 9:01 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Image Re-Search - Anyone know who where when this
guyis from?


> Lil Sorepaws wrote:
> > I'm driving myself nuts
> > trying to find this info based only on the picture and the fact that the
> > character in it is italian and probably from the early 1600's ... I hope
> > someone can help .. the image can be found at :
> >
> > http://www.cranky-kitty.com/guyfie.jpg
>
> That is almost certainly the Duke of Burgundy, circa 1450, maybe a bit
> later.  Not sure exactly which Duke, though.
>
> -- 
> Cynthia Virtue and/or
> Cynthia du Pré Argent
>
>    "Such virtue hath my pen...."  -Shakespeare, Sonnet 81
>         "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!"  --Cynthia V.
> _______________________________________________
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>
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] oilcloth
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Hi, All. I believe the company Panther Primitives sells oilcloth. At 
least I remember seeing it in (I think) their shop at Pennsic. I am sure 
they are online.
BTW, I have never made oilcloth, but I have made waxed cloth using 
beeswax. The sailors on the Maryland Dove, a ship at Historic St. Maries 
Citty, have a shirt that is waxed that they use for inclement weather. I 
don't know where they got the idea, and even if it is proper. I use mine 
for panes in a few lanterns I made to the specs from lanterns found on a 
Spanish 16th Cent. shipwreck. They are noted on the ship's. manifest as 
having panes made of waxed linen. I also use circles of waxed linen to 
cover our food containers out in the field so that dirt and vermin don't 
get in them. Cheers, Mike T.

>
>  
>

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Mari Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Image Re-Search - Anyone know who where when this
	guy is from?
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Hey Lil...  not Italian,   Burgundian.  Phillip the Good,  approximately 
1430.  Look for him in Flemish art sources.  This is from a picture with a 
man presenting a book to the Good Duke,  his sponsonr.
Bridgette


>Hi .. Pardon the slightly offtopic post (I am rarely de-lurking) but I
>need to get some information about a picture that one of my housemates
>gave me .. basically we will be making another housemate the garb but the
>picture is very hard to see from and I was hoping that either someone out
>there had a source for a more clear/bigger copy of the image or could tell
>me what kind of hat/boots and jewelry the guy was wearing and maybe point
>out a good place to find similar items pictures.  I'm driving myself nuts
>trying to find this info based only on the picture and the fact that the
>character in it is italian and probably from the early 1600's ... I hope
>someone can help .. the image can be found at :
>
>http://www.cranky-kitty.com/guyfie.jpg
>
>Many thanks in advance ~~~~
>
>- Lil (the lost and confused one again ;)
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: oil cloth
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At 7:30 AM -0700 1/20/04, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>So you know...modern oilcloth is the stuff they make tablecloths from. I
>>  would think simply treating some canvas with linseed will be fine. It gets
>>  translucent when you do this. I've only done it once myself to treat a
>>  canvas floor cloth.
Hi
It works like a charm, just PLEASE do this outside and keep the cloth 
spread out till it drys and only do a thin coat at a time! Otherwise 
you really do risk spontaneous combustion! If you do about 3-5 coats 
it is still sorta flexable and has a neat shine to it.
Ta
Carol
-- 
Jan 7 1792: Farenheit's thermometer 23 degrees below.I rub silk gowns
with flannel to see the beautiful streams of fire which are emitted
with a crackling noise during the cold weather.
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: La Mode Bagatelle Regency pattern - experiences?
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    I use this pattern all the time and love it. Sorry to hear you're having
difficulty. Some observations:

 I say this because the front
> of the dress plunges *extremely* low - 3" or more below the top edge of my
> stays. I've had to take it up around 3" of the front strap and 1 1/2" in
the
> back just to make the neckline fall correctly.

    Hhhhmm, my first thought is perhaps you've made your corset too high?
The top of the corset should fit just over the nipple, essentially creating
two half cups. The front of the gown in indeed cut low, as was done
historically and should sit above the nipple about two to three inches,
depending on your size, so there is quite a bit of decoltage. For day wear
the dresses were worn either with a chemisette or a fichu. For evening,
well, yes, one displays what nature gave you. You might want to check out
the some of the Regency fashion pages as this gives you an excellent idea of
how low some of these bodices sat.

> Also, where is the back waist supposed to fall during this time period?
The
> adjustments I made place the back waist just about even with my shoulder
> blades - I know waistlines are high, but *that* high?

    High indeed. The back waistline should actually cut across the shoulder
blades, not even or below.

 It's also rather
> baggy, yet taking up the straps has made the armseyes extremely tight. Am
I
> not placing the shoulder seam correctly?

    The armsceye historically is very tight and should fit right up under
your arm, not as we tend to wear our sleeves today. Baggy? Where, exactly? I
don't quite get that part, my apologies. The shoulder seam should fall to
the back in a diagonal, about three inches below the top of the shoulder,
depending on your size. The seams at the back of the bodice should create
that classic clawfoot back. The side seams, unless you're making the larger
sizes as I would wear, in fact wraps around to the back, and is not a modern
side seam that falls under the arm.

> Also, does this pattern run large or small?

    The pattern actually tends to run large. Did you do a muslin first of
the bodice?

Regards
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage
fine hand-sewn embroidered garments, historical sewing patterns & embroidery
supplies
(519) 799-5577, http://www.5rivers.org  email: info@5rivers.org

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I set my options to 'no mail' from the H-costumers' list when I left town--would love to get back on-- and receive them again--but am having trouble--please help--
many thanks--
Albra


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Subject: [h-cost] Civil War Ballgown Patterns
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Status: RO

I just got my first commission for a Civil War ensemble: everything from the 
chemise out, except stockings and shoes (whee!), from a friend of mine.  She'd 
like me to use Simplicity pattern 5724 (picture here: 
http://www.simplicity.com/assets/5724/5724.jpg ).  Now, I'm not really a Civil war person, myself.  
At least, not in terms of historical accuracy.  So I'm not entirely sure how 
accurate this is!  Part of me would like to say "Well, as long as she has fun, 
likes it, and pays me!", but I would like to know if it's a complete and utter 
fantasy.  I've seen "historical" patterns (like from longago.com) with a 
similar skirt- the petal style, but lacking all those ruffles.  I've also pretty 
much refused to sew those huge flower things (and she wants it in blue silk 
taffeta-ish stuff, anyhow, so red roses wouldn't look so great).  

I'll be making the entire ensemble, and at the moment they're from Simplicity 
patterns.  If these are inaccurate, I'll tell her and we'll consider a 
change, depending on whether they're completely off-base or just a little off (if 
all I have to do is draft out, say, a center front seam or a dart, I'll just 
draft it out).  So, what patterns I'm using:
5724 (gown, see above link)
9764 (hoopskirt and petticoat): 
http://www.simplicity.com/assets/9764/9764.jpg 
9769 (corset, chemise, drawers): 
http://www.simplicity.com/assets/9769/9769.jpg

Also, if anyone has actually used 5724 before...the gown calls for sixteen 
yards (!) of fabric.  Is that much actually necessary for the pattern?  To my 
untrained eye, it seems just a tiny, tiny bit excessive!

Christine
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "KATHRYN WOLTERS" <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2004 2:02 PM
Subject: [h-cost] want to get back on list


> I set my options to 'no mail' from the H-costumers' list when I left
town--would love to get back on-- and receive them again--but am having
trouble--please help--
> many thanks--
> Albra
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
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> _______________________________________________
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>
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IceGirlNIN@aol.com wrote:

> I just got my first commission for a Civil War ensemble: everything from the 
> chemise out, except stockings and shoes (whee!), from a friend of mine.  She'd 
> like me to use Simplicity pattern 5724 (picture here: 
> http://www.simplicity.com/assets/5724/5724.jpg ).  Now, I'm not really a Civil war person, myself.  
> At least, not in terms of historical accuracy.  So I'm not entirely sure how 
> accurate this is! 

I've been looking at photographs recently and I have to say *I* have 
never seen a dress like that.

However, here's a reviewer who claims it "is supported by primary-source 
material". She just doesn't say where. Warning, this is a huge PDF file.

http://www.elizabethstewartclarkandcompany.com/SA/SA3/SA3.5/SA3.5.3/Simplicity%20Pattern%20Review.pdf

You can view an HTML (faster loading) version here:

http://216.239.39.104/search?q=cache:0YyBsf54CMgJ:www.elizabethstewartclarkandcompany.com/SA/SA3/SA3.5/SA3.5.3/Simplicity%2520Pattern%2520Review.pdf+simplicity+5724&hl=en&ie=UTF-8



Dawn



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Civil War Ballgown Patterns
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In a message dated 1/20/2004 5:41:08 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
IceGirlNIN@aol.com writes:

> Simplicity pattern 5724 

Well...I can't like everything everyone else does I guess.....


But it's not accurate. You can make the "same" gown accurately, however. If 
the bodice is cut correctly [double darted in front for instance] and too the 
skirt and overskirt [more often than not straight panels sewn selvage to 
selvage and pleated into the waist]

This is also a ball gown. Is she going to a ball? Because she sure wouldn't 
wear such an outfit anywhere else....[maybe the opera.]

To me the secret of this period is not to load that big blank "canvas" of a 
skirt with too much stuff. You want people to focus on the person's face and 
shoulder area, not be looking at her from the waist down all night. Keep the 
interest on the bodice and décolletage and let the skirt play second fiddle. If 
the fabric is stunning, a plain skirt of 4 to 5 yard fullness over a hoop 
[especially of the shape of the mid to late 60s with the elongated back] is 
spectacular enough.

There are a ka-zillion photos from this period. Take a look at those...not 
fashion plates from magazines. Notice how most gowns are toned down from the 
fashion plate ideal. Notice all the plain skirts.
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: La Mode Bagatelle Regency questions
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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 11:31:45 -0500
From: "Five Rivers" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
Subject: [h-cost] Re: La Mode Bagatelle Regency pattern - experiences?
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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You wrote:

    Hhhhmm, my first thought is perhaps you've made your corset too high?
The top of the corset should fit just over the nipple, essentially creating
two half cups. The front of the gown in indeed cut low, as was done
historically and should sit above the nipple about two to three inches,
depending on your size, so there is quite a bit of decoltage. For day wear
the dresses were worn either with a chemisette or a fichu. For evening,
well, yes, one displays what nature gave you. You might want to check out
the some of the Regency fashion pages as this gives you an excellent idea of
how low some of these bodices sat.

	** I did take a look through "Fashion in Detail", and you are right, they
do fit awfully low! My corset does fit as "half cups" the way you describe,
but I might not have shoved it downwards over my hips as much as I should
have when fitting the muslin - it does make you feel quite exposed if you're
not used to it!

	**<snip for brevity>

    High indeed. The back waistline should actually cut across the shoulder
blades, not even or below.



> Also, does this pattern run large or small?

    The pattern actually tends to run large. Did you do a muslin first of
the bodice?

	**I was definitely working on a muslin, and in answer to Teena's question -
no, I went by the sizes listed for my measurements on the pattern envelope!
Given both of your descriptions, it seems obvious to me that I cut the wrong
size. I am going to try what you suggest, Teena, and compare the pattern
piece measurements to my own, and will most likely try again at a smaller
size!

	** Thank you both, very sincerely, for your prompt attention to my
questions! The assembly does seem like it will go quickly (crosses fingers),
if I can just get the fit right!

Regards
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage
fine hand-sewn embroidered garments, historical sewing patterns & embroidery
supplies
(519) 799-5577, http://www.5rivers.org  email: info@5rivers.org

	** Allison T.

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Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 15:49:26 -0800 (PST)
From: KATHRYN WOLTERS <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] want to get back on list
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Seems I'm already back:)
thanks mucho, everyone!
Albra

Audrey Bergeron-Morin <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com> wrote:
Go to this address http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Go to last box at the bottom of the page (Unsubscribe or edit options),
enter your email address and click on the button. On the next page, enter
your password, and click on the button.
Find the Mail Delivery options and modify to your convenience.




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "KATHRYN WOLTERS" 
To: 
Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2004 2:02 PM
Subject: [h-cost] want to get back on list


> I set my options to 'no mail' from the H-costumers' list when I left
town--would love to get back on-- and receive them again--but am having
trouble--please help--
> many thanks--
> Albra
>
>
> ---------------------------------
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> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jan 20 20:29:55 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: La Mode Bagatelle Regency pattern - experiences?
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 17:17:23 -0600
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Wow, thanks for that informational post.  I'm in the middle of making my LMB
Regency dress, and all you mentioned is exactly what I did do and how the
dress actually came out.  I'm glad I got it right.  Also, for the neck line,
I just added ribbon on the inside and pulled it up a bit.


Though I am not finished with the project you can find it in my dress
diaries.

http://elizabethsartofdress.com

It's called my Josephine dress.  I also made Stays as well.

Elizabeth

PS I'm actually going to print this post and put it in my pattern envelope.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Five Rivers" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2004 10:31 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: La Mode Bagatelle Regency pattern - experiences?


>     I use this pattern all the time and love it. Sorry to hear you're
having
> difficulty. Some observations:
>
>  I say this because the front
> > of the dress plunges *extremely* low - 3" or more below the top edge of
my
> > stays. I've had to take it up around 3" of the front strap and 1 1/2" in
> the
> > back just to make the neckline fall correctly.
>
>     Hhhhmm, my first thought is perhaps you've made your corset too high?
> The top of the corset should fit just over the nipple, essentially
creating
> two half cups. The front of the gown in indeed cut low, as was done
> historically and should sit above the nipple about two to three inches,
> depending on your size, so there is quite a bit of decoltage. For day wear
> the dresses were worn either with a chemisette or a fichu. For evening,
> well, yes, one displays what nature gave you. You might want to check out
> the some of the Regency fashion pages as this gives you an excellent idea
of
> how low some of these bodices sat.
>
> > Also, where is the back waist supposed to fall during this time period?
> The
> > adjustments I made place the back waist just about even with my shoulder
> > blades - I know waistlines are high, but *that* high?
>
>     High indeed. The back waistline should actually cut across the
shoulder
> blades, not even or below.
>
>  It's also rather
> > baggy, yet taking up the straps has made the armseyes extremely tight.
Am
> I
> > not placing the shoulder seam correctly?
>
>     The armsceye historically is very tight and should fit right up under
> your arm, not as we tend to wear our sleeves today. Baggy? Where, exactly?
I
> don't quite get that part, my apologies. The shoulder seam should fall to
> the back in a diagonal, about three inches below the top of the shoulder,
> depending on your size. The seams at the back of the bodice should create
> that classic clawfoot back. The side seams, unless you're making the
larger
> sizes as I would wear, in fact wraps around to the back, and is not a
modern
> side seam that falls under the arm.
>
> > Also, does this pattern run large or small?
>
>     The pattern actually tends to run large. Did you do a muslin first of
> the bodice?
>
> Regards
> Lorina
> Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage
> fine hand-sewn embroidered garments, historical sewing patterns &
embroidery
> supplies
> (519) 799-5577, http://www.5rivers.org  email: info@5rivers.org
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jan 20 21:55:44 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: La Mode Bagatelle Regency questions
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My only experience with this pattern does not concern the fit of the bodice, 
but rather the skirt.  I think it has 2 more gores than is necessary.  I use 
the Cut of Women's Clothes skirt that is 72" in circumference, and it gives a 
great period look.  So I would recommend you use that skirt instead of the one 
in the pattern.
Ann Wass
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Has any thought been given to doing the red H on the badges at CC-22?  It was so great to put faces on names at CC-21 last year.  And, I got to meet Teddy, and Margo, and Stevie, and, and.


Snow fallen on snow,
      and this evening, the full moon of November
Basho

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From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Digitzing Pads for Embroidery Machines
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At 02:14 PM 1/19/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Greetings All -
>
>I am sorry that this is bit a off topic.  But i know there are quite a few
>people out there who use Embroidery Machines.  And, I was wondering if anyone
>out there used a digitizing pad instead of a mouse when working with their
>Digitizing Software.  I am trying to decide if I want to spend the money 
>to buy
>one, but nobody (including Brother, I am using PE-Design) knows if it will 
>work.
>
>Kit


Hi Kit,

See if you can borrow someone digital pad to find out. My pad works with 
most of my Windows programs, and the stylus basically acts as a mouse. Some 
of my programs, like Photoshop and Illustrator have special functions that 
are accessible with the pad/stylus. Otherwise, it is just like a mouse, 
with left and right click functions. Wacom makes the best pads (and 
integrate with the computer the best), and they have a little one that also 
comes with a mouse that my friend really likes. I bought a larger one 
because I wanted more room for my graphic work. I love it for graphic work 
because it saves my wrists from the strain, and it feels just like I am 
working with a pen or pencil. You do have to practice with it for a bit 
before you get used to how it works, but it is worth taking the time to play.

Good luck, and let me know if it does work for you, as I am hoping to get 
an embroidery program someday.

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

Costume Mistress for Isle of Mann Guild
Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
http://www.costumegallery.com 

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Status: RO

Just wanted y'all to know, I took y'all's advice re: applying my own
measurements to the pattern before choosing a size.

It turns out that my best fitting muslin is a size 8 (!) for this pattern -
it really is very oversized as I'm usually a US 8-10 in ready to wear!

But thanks to y'all's advice it's now sitting where it ought and I feel like
I can proceed. Thanks!

Allison T.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Image Re-Search - Anyone know who where when this guy
	is	from?
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Charles, maybe? At least, that was my first thought...
--sue

Cynthia Virtue wrote:
> Lil Sorepaws wrote:
> 
>> I'm driving myself nuts
>> trying to find this info based only on the picture and the fact that the
>> character in it is italian and probably from the early 1600's ... I hope
>> someone can help .. the image can be found at :
>>
>> http://www.cranky-kitty.com/guyfie.jpg
> 
> 
> That is almost certainly the Duke of Burgundy, circa 1450, maybe a bit 
> later.  Not sure exactly which Duke, though.
> 

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From: "Diane Maynard" <Camelothorse@earthlink.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] civil war ball gown patterns
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Status: RO

I made a brief post about this gown earlier but, not being any where near an expert on this era nor as knowledgeable as others on this list, upon reading everyone else's comments, now feel great about the changes I made to this gown pattern for my own dress last Saturday night.   First of all, I made the dress in a green, navy blue, black plaid taffeta.   I kept the line and neckline of the bodice pattern but left off the pleated bertha.   Thirty-eight eyelet holes for lacing up the back of the bodice.   For the skirt, I made a very simple five yard skirt with a pleated waistband----no ruffles.  ( I felt that the plaid taffeta was enough decoration without getting too busy with ruffles.)  I did the full underpinnings---chemise, drawers, white stockings and corset.    My grandmother's broach on the neckline, simple black dangle earrings,  again my Grandmother's crystal cameo and gold clamp bracelet and, off white crocheted gloves.   It was a little nippy and for a wrap, I wore a vintage dark beaver fur cape that had a small white mink collar.  There were some exceptionally beautiful gowns there and all of them ( I felt ) more  gorgeous and elaborate than mine.   This was my first attempt at a Civil War piece and I was truly shocked and flattered when my little gown won first place.   Hopefully, the pictures will come out and I will be able to post some of them.

Diane 
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From: "Diane Maynard" <Camelothorse@earthlink.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Civil War Ballgown Patterns
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 17:08:25 -0600
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Delurking briefly to give you my personal experience---
I do not know about the accuracy of the gown but, I just made a modified
version of this for a ball last Saturday night.  BTW---I got rave reviews
from everyone there and won the costume contest but, that is not what I am
writing about.    Has your friend ever had to wear a gown with this
particular neck line ?   If not, she needs to go to a bridal shop and try
this neck line on in a bridal gown before you make this for her.   I have
NEVER ---and I mean----  NEVER ---  felt so helpless and claustrophobic in
my life !  --  AND,   I am used to wearing corsets with my Elizabethans
BUT,----this gown's neckline  TOTALLY  locks your arms down.   It took me
quite a while to decide that I was going to be OK and get over my panic
attack.   One really needs to try this neckline on and understand the
limited range of motion you have with your arms before thinking that you
would spend an entire evening wearing it.   I also left off the flowers.
I had made the gown in plaid taffeta and I used my Grandmother's broach on
the front of the neckline of the gown as the only ornamentation.

I also made my underpinnings from the Simplicity pattern and had no problems
other than, do not expect the normal "ease" to be there as in their mundane
clothes patterns.   It does run more accurate to what they claim the
measurements are.  Oh---and I also made the corset with a full linen lining
which they do not call for.

Diane


----- Original Message -----
From: <IceGirlNIN@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2004 4:33 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Civil War Ballgown Patterns


> I just got my first commission for a Civil War ensemble: everything from
the
> chemise out, except stockings and shoes (whee!), from a friend of mine.
She'd
> like me to use Simplicity pattern 5724 (picture here:
> http://www.simplicity.com/assets/5724/5724.jpg ).  Now, I'm not really a
Civil war person, myself.
> At least, not in terms of historical accuracy.  So I'm not entirely sure
how
> accurate this is!  Part of me would like to say "Well, as long as she has
fun,
> likes it, and pays me!", but I would like to know if it's a complete and
utter
> fantasy.  I've seen "historical" patterns (like from longago.com) with a
> similar skirt- the petal style, but lacking all those ruffles.  I've also
pretty
> much refused to sew those huge flower things (and she wants it in blue
silk
> taffeta-ish stuff, anyhow, so red roses wouldn't look so great).
>
> I'll be making the entire ensemble, and at the moment they're from
Simplicity
> patterns.  If these are inaccurate, I'll tell her and we'll consider a
> change, depending on whether they're completely off-base or just a little
off (if
> all I have to do is draft out, say, a center front seam or a dart, I'll
just
> draft it out).  So, what patterns I'm using:
> 5724 (gown, see above link)
> 9764 (hoopskirt and petticoat):
> http://www.simplicity.com/assets/9764/9764.jpg
> 9769 (corset, chemise, drawers):
> http://www.simplicity.com/assets/9769/9769.jpg
>
> Also, if anyone has actually used 5724 before...the gown calls for sixteen
> yards (!) of fabric.  Is that much actually necessary for the pattern?  To
my
> untrained eye, it seems just a tiny, tiny bit excessive!
>
> Christine
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Good luck... Regency is one of my favorite periods!
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From: "Diane Maynard" <Camelothorse@earthlink.net>
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I normally lurk but, had actually tried to reply to a couple of posts yesterday and my posts never came through.   Just wondering what happened.

Diane
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] CC-22
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Oh my... that is fast approaching isn't it? Ack! I need to make more garb!

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Genie" <kerowyn@mindspring.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2004 8:16 PM
Subject: [h-cost] CC-22


> Has any thought been given to doing the red H on the badges at CC-22?  It
was so great to put faces on names at CC-21 last year.  And, I got to meet
Teddy, and Margo, and Stevie, and, and.
>
>
> Snow fallen on snow,
>       and this evening, the full moon of November
> Basho
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
>
>

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] mans 18th century cloak
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Hello,
I just wanted to ask if any of you have found out more than me about mens cloaks. 1760- 1780
I am going to a spring feast in Stockholm on march 13th.
This time of year, it still is rather cold in Scandinavia so i thoaght about making myself a gentlemans cloak.
There is a pattern i have from Colonial Williamsburg. It is red with no linning.
My question is, that i wanted to line my cloak. I was thinking about making the cloak in black wool, and then line it with red velvet. It must have ben ok to line a cloak here in Scandinavia where it gets rather cold some times.
Has any of you come up with cloaks being lined?
I would like to hear what you think.
Thanks in advance

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
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Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 09:06:18 -0500 (EST)
From: Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>
To: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Civil War Ballgown Patterns
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The dress is supported by this fashion plate(very long url):

http://content-dev.lib.washington.edu/cgi-bin/pview.exe?CISOROOT=/costumehist&CISOPTR=160&CISORESTMP=/search-templates/costume-results.html&CISOVIEWTMP=/search-templates/costume-view.html&CISOROWS=3&CISOCOLS=5

The skirt is quite similar though the bodice trim is quite different.
I think if I were using this pattern I would change the style enough
that I wouldn't have to worry about someone else showing up in the same
dress.  We've got a few ball dress pictures on my website if you need
some trim inspiration (I also did a book on 1860 evening dress):

www.vintagevictorian.com/costume_1860.html

There are 2 dress prints there that are also white with red trim (one
English one American).

Hope this helps

Katy

On Tue, 20 Jan 2004, Dawn wrote:

>IceGirlNIN@aol.com wrote:
>
>> I just got my first commission for a Civil War ensemble: everything from the
>> chemise out, except stockings and shoes (whee!), from a friend of mine.  She'd
>> like me to use Simplicity pattern 5724 (picture here:
>
>However, here's a reviewer who claims it "is supported by primary-source
>material". She just doesn't say where. Warning, this is a huge PDF file.
>
>http://216.239.39.104/search?q=cache:0YyBsf54CMgJ:www.elizabethstewartclarkandcompany.com/SA/SA3/SA3.5/SA3.5.3/Simplicity%2520Pattern%2520Review.pdf+simplicity+5724&hl=en&ie=UTF-8
>


Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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Subject: [h-cost] Movie opinion: "Possession" with Gwyneth Paltrow
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Hi!

All this talk about big skirts has made me think of
the movie "Possession" which came out in 2002 and
starred Gwyneth Paltrow and Jeremy Northam (among
others). Have any of you seen this movie? I'm
wondering how good the costumes are for the part of
the story set in the past (1859). It's been a while
since I've seen this movie, but I remember rather
liking the dresses worn by the women (but I have no
expertise in this time frame). There's also a scene
where one woman is very pregnant.

Here's a random review:

http://www.bluntreview.com/reviews/possession.htm



Thanks!
Claudine

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Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 20:20:27 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Image Re-Search - Anyone know who where when this
	guy	is	from?
References: <20040120013703.39563.qmail@web12501.mail.yahoo.com>
	<400C8C15.6050404@thibault.org> <400E088D.7000908@in-tch.com>
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Well here's serendipity!  He's included in the book of postcards from 
the exhibition "Illuminating the Renaissance", at the Royal Academy of 
Arts in London, which I went to last week (more 15th century Flemish, my 
favourite!)

I still don't know which Duke of Burgundy, but you can check that out. 
The picture is from "Jacques de Guise, Chroniques de Hainaut, 
translation by Jean Wauquelin of Annales Historiae illustrium principum 
Hannoniae", 1447-48, biblioteque royale de Belgique, Ms9242, fol 1. 
Picture by Rogier van der Weyden, of the author presenting the book to 
the Duke.

Jean

Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote
>Charles, maybe? At least, that was my first thought...
>--sue
>
>Cynthia Virtue wrote:
>> Lil Sorepaws wrote:
>>
>>> I'm driving myself nuts
>>> trying to find this info based only on the picture and the fact that the
>>> character in it is italian and probably from the early 1600's ... I hope
>>> someone can help .. the image can be found at :
>>>
>>> http://www.cranky-kitty.com/guyfie.jpg
>>   That is almost certainly the Duke of Burgundy, circa 1450, maybe a 
>>bit  later.  Not sure exactly which Duke, though.
>>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Civil War Ballgown Patterns
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In a message dated 1/21/2004 11:47:38 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
vintage@shore.net writes:
The dress is supported by this fashion plate(very long url):

http://content-dev.lib.washington.edu/cgi-bin/pview.exe?CISOROOT=/costumehist&
CISOPTR=160&CISORESTMP=/search-templates/costume-results.html&CISOVIEWTMP=/sea
rch-templates/costume-view.html&CISOROWS=3&CISOCOLS=5

Oh my, that's so dead-on it's frightening!  (Simplicity actually based the 
dress on something!) Except of course for the bodice.  I will be changing the 
dress somewhat- no huge red flowers (possibly little white flowers instead), it 
will be in deep blue, and there may be other changes- the pattern is being 
mailed to me, and when I get it I'll be able to make suggestions.  The wearer and 
I are also discussing whether I'll be making that hairpiece- no one in their 
right mind would simply wear their hair down, with that dress.  It's simply a 
matter of whether she has enough hair, and who can fix it for her (I won't be 
able to, as I'll be about five hours away and at school at that time).  

AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

>if the bodice is cut correctly [double darted in front for instance] and too 
the 
>skirt and overskirt [more often than not straight panels sewn selvage to 
>selvage and pleated into the waist]

I'm not entirely sure what you mean by "double darted".  I may actually know 
what the technique is, but I'm not sure of the term (I can, however, do a dart 
<g>.  Though it's not something you see much in Elizabethans!).  The skirt is 
separate from the bodice, but is cartridge pleated to a waistband.  Not 
having seen the actual pattern pieces or instructions, I'm not sure how the skirt 
is cut.  At the moment (plans will be more final once I get a chance to rummage 
through NYC fabric stores) the idea is that the fabric of the dress itself 
will be blue silk taffeta, lined, interlined, etc as necessary for the correct 
drape.  Since this person is my friend rather than a stranger, I did do a 
teensy, tiny bit of bullying to make sure that she understands that natural fibers 
are best for this project.  Especially considering how many layers there are!

Christine
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jan 21 19:54:27 2004
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Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 18:22:22 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mn.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] La Mode Bagatelle Regency pattern - experiences?
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Greetings,

At 07:45 PM 1/19/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Has anyone on the list ever worked with the La Mode Bagatelle Regency
>wardrobe pattern? I am currently using this for the first time and am having
>some real frustrations with it!

Frankly I am not surprised.  LMBR patterns are very poorly scaled for 
smaller sizes.

>I am fitting it over the Mantua Maker 1800-1820 stays, which fit perfectly
>and create the correct "pushed up" silhouette, but this pattern seems to be
>designed to be worn with modern undergarments. I say this because the front
>of the dress plunges *extremely* low - 3" or more below the top edge of my
>stays. I've had to take it up around 3" of the front strap and 1 1/2" in the
>back just to make the neckline fall correctly.

Excellent stays pattern, the one I used as well.   The LMBR pattern is 
actually designed to be worn with a petticoat with a canvas lined bodice so 
that you are supported in a way that isn't modern but isn't the same as the 
stays either.  Are you doing the cross over front bodice?  If so, it is 
acceptable to have another fabric as a sort of placard to fill in the deep 
"v" so that you aren't hanging out.  You can see what I did on my attempt 
at this pattern.  http://www.dnaco.net/~drea/newboston/danielle7.jpg

>Also, where is the back waist supposed to fall during this time period? The
>adjustments I made place the back waist just about even with my shoulder
>blades - I know waistlines are high, but *that* high? It's also rather
>baggy, yet taking up the straps has made the armseyes extremely tight. Am I
>not placing the shoulder seam correctly?

The back waistline should be about where your bra-strap fits or slightly 
higher.  I've seen some fashion plates that go up in a "v" at the back.  I 
had a problem with the back being too low, that could have been because I 
had to do so much fiddling but I'm not sure. Have a 
look.  http://www.dnaco.net/~drea/newboston/danielle4.jpg  As for the 
strap/armscye problem, I think you will just have to fudge it.  Take up the 
strap to where it fits best than cut down the armscye until it is 
comfortable.  Does that help or make sense?

>Also, does this pattern run large or small? I cut for a size 12, but the way
>it is fitting I'm suspecting I need a size 10 in the back and a size 6 in
>the front to make it look like the pattern envelope!

I hear that on larger sizes it fits perfectly.  On smaller size it runs 
huge and is poorly scaled.  Basically it is useless for anyone using a 12 
or under (I don't know about the middle teen sizes).  I also made a size 12 
once and had to take out at least 4 inches on each back panel and I 
scrapped the front altogether and winged it.

>Sorry to pummel with so many questions, but I feel like I am short of time
>and money - I cannot go out and get another company's pattern, so I must
>make La Mode Bagatelle work. Any suggestions anyone can offer will be
>appreciated beyond belief!!

Good luck Allison.  It is a difficult thing to fiddle with, it hope it 
turns out for you.

Cheers,
Danielle

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jan 21 22:37:17 2004
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <1ad.1ecc80ae.2d40518b@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Civil War Ballgown Patterns
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 22:41:23 -0500
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Have any of you thought to see the fine archives that Fran Grimbal has
included in her book of 'reconstruction era costumes? I was cruising mine
this evening on another quest, and was struck with the pertinence of the
various alternative treatments for both bodices and skirts for this
period(1860s), per the discussion of the last few days.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <IceGirlNIN@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2004 5:04 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Civil War Ballgown Patterns


> In a message dated 1/21/2004 11:47:38 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> vintage@shore.net writes:
> The dress is supported by this fashion plate(very long url):
>
>
http://content-dev.lib.washington.edu/cgi-bin/pview.exe?CISOROOT=/costumehist&
>
CISOPTR=160&CISORESTMP=/search-templates/costume-results.html&CISOVIEWTMP=/s
ea
> rch-templates/costume-view.html&CISOROWS=3&CISOCOLS=5
>
> Oh my, that's so dead-on it's frightening!  (Simplicity actually based the
> dress on something!) Except of course for the bodice.  I will be changing
the
> dress somewhat- no huge red flowers (possibly little white flowers
instead), it
> will be in deep blue, and there may be other changes- the pattern is being
> mailed to me, and when I get it I'll be able to make suggestions.  The
wearer and
> I are also discussing whether I'll be making that hairpiece- no one in
their
> right mind would simply wear their hair down, with that dress.  It's
simply a
> matter of whether she has enough hair, and who can fix it for her (I won't
be
> able to, as I'll be about five hours away and at school at that time).
>
> AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
>
> >if the bodice is cut correctly [double darted in front for instance] and
too
> the
> >skirt and overskirt [more often than not straight panels sewn selvage to
> >selvage and pleated into the waist]
>
> I'm not entirely sure what you mean by "double darted".  I may actually
know
> what the technique is, but I'm not sure of the term (I can, however, do a
dart
> <g>.  Though it's not something you see much in Elizabethans!).  The skirt
is
> separate from the bodice, but is cartridge pleated to a waistband.  Not
> having seen the actual pattern pieces or instructions, I'm not sure how
the skirt
> is cut.  At the moment (plans will be more final once I get a chance to
rummage
> through NYC fabric stores) the idea is that the fabric of the dress itself
> will be blue silk taffeta, lined, interlined, etc as necessary for the
correct
> drape.  Since this person is my friend rather than a stranger, I did do a
> teensy, tiny bit of bullying to make sure that she understands that
natural fibers
> are best for this project.  Especially considering how many layers there
are!
>
> Christine
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Civil War Ballgown Patterns
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In a message dated 1/21/2004 5:11:53 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
IceGirlNIN@aol.com writes:

> I'm not entirely sure what you mean by "double darted".

I'm sorry. I realize it's not a "real" term but it's the way we used to refer 
to the 2 darts you find under each bust in this period. It's THE way to nip 
in a bodice in the 19th century [there are other ways but this one is very very 
common and lingers from the 1830s to the 1890s]. Princess lines are seen in 
ballgowns sometimes in the 1860s so that is OK too. But I like the "double 
darted" look because it screams 19th century.

And look carefully at the skirt in the fashion plate. You can see what look 
like deep pleats between each scallop of the over skirt. I don't think the 
Simplicity pattern does that but.....

Wait and see what the pattern pieces are like. There's a bulkier, less fussy 
look to the fashion plate skirt, IMHO.

Anyway, with white flowers [orange blossoms are all the rage in this period] 
and white lace on light blue silk, this design might be much more palpable.
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Subject: [h-cost] Linen
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Greetings to one and all,

   Have a few questions about linen:
 Where is the best place on the web to buy linen?
 What weight is good for pants and tunics?  
And is it best to buy bleached linen then dye it or is it best to buy 
the color you want?
  And the last question.  If you do dye it, is it best to dye it before 
you sew the garb or after you sew the garb?

Roscelin


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linen
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
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> Greetings to one and all,
>
>    Have a few questions about linen:
>  Where is the best place on the web to buy linen?

Roscelin,

I don't know about the best place to buy but I just started an online
business that caters to costumers.  I have a couple of really nice pieces
including a linen herringbone weave that you may like.  The address is
www.renaissancefabrics.net

>  What weight is good for pants and tunics?

Medium to heavy for pants and for tunics it depends on the weather that
you intend to wear the clothing in.  I have a really light-weight tunic
for those over 100F days here in California.  But a heavier weight would
be better for layering and cooler weather.

> And is it best to buy bleached linen then dye it or is it best to buy
> the color you want?

Linen doesn't take dye as well as cotton, wool and silk.  So achieving a
dark color can be difficult.  Usually it is best to buy the linen in the
color you want or take an existing color and dye over it to get the color
you want.  This is a great trick if you find an awful color on the bargain
table for a cheap price.  Buy it then over-dye it!

>   And the last question.  If you do dye it, is it best to dye it before
> you sew the garb or after you sew the garb?

I would suggest dyeing before you sew.  That way if there is any
blotchiness (hopefully not) you can cut around it or use it creatively.

-- 
Diana Habra
www.renaissancefabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"
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Subject: [h-cost] Linen Sewing Thread
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Status: RO

Does anyone know where to buy linen sewing thread?  I need thread that's fairly fine, say 50/3 weight.  There was a textile reproduction business in Western Massachusetts where you could buy authentic fabric and notions, including thread.

I lost the address, but I think the proprietor was called Kathryn.

Any advice would be most gratefully received,

Maryanne in Bethlehem, PA
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linen
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>  Where is the best place on the web to buy linen?
http://www.fabric.com/ (wonderful service, great items)
http://www.fabrics-store.com/ (scrutinize images carefully, their stuff has
a tendency to have lots of slubs, but their 3.5 oz linen is fine)

>  What weight is good for pants and tunics?
Light-weight or medium weight. (3.5 oz or 5 oz)

> And is it best to buy bleached linen then dye it or is it best to buy
> the color you want?
It's almost the same price dyed or bleached, so if you're going for outer
garments, buy it the color you want. The colors will be brighter and won't
fade as much with use. If you're going for under garments, then white and
don't dye it.

>  If you do dye it, is it best to dye it before
> you sew the garb or after you sew the garb?
I'd say before, because the dye could end up uneven at the seams. But both
methods will work and you probably won't see much difference in the end.
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> Does anyone know where to buy linen sewing thread?  I need thread
> that's fairly fine, say 50/3 weight.  There was a textile reproduction
> business in Western Massachusetts where you could buy authentic fabric
> and notions, including thread.
> 
> I lost the address, but I think the proprietor was called Kathryn.

I suspect you're asking about Kathleen B. Smith, Textile 
Reproductions. Unfortunately, I haven't used them in many years but 
they were very good. (And I don't have a current address. Hopefully 
having the correct name will help.) I've gotten very nice indigo dyed 
linen thread, but it was fairly heavy weight.

Have you tried weaving supply stores? I get my linen thread from 
Robin & Russ Handweavers in McMinnville, Oregon. However, I can't 
find the address. (I generally just day trip down there or try to hit 
it when I'm down there for some other reason.) I know they do mail 
order service. I've not gotten anything but white (bleached probably 
as it is very white). Even if you get an old address, it will be the 
right one because they haven't moved in the 19 years I've known about 
them. 

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jan 22 03:18:55 2004
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Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 23:06:42 -0800
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linen
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At 10:00 PM 1/21/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>Greetings to one and all,
>
>   Have a few questions about linen:
>Where is the best place on the web to buy linen?

Hello Roscelin,

There are two places I have ventured into buying fabrics online (besides 
eBay). Your personal mileage may vary.

One place I have found that has good linen at decent prices online is 
http://www.fabrics-store.com . I just started buying from them, and the 
shipping was quick and the ordering trouble free. You can get some of their 
linens in a free sample card, so you call see the weights and some of the 
colors they normally carry in stock. They also have a mailing list you can 
sign up for that has some interesting tidbits of info on linen and ideas 
for making things. So far, I am happy with them and plan to order more.

I have also found linens at http://www.denverfabrics.com/ . I have only 
bought silk from them so far, but they seem to have a varied stock of 
linens in white and colors. You can also order swatches, at a minimal cost. 
I like their ordering process so far, and they are also fast on shipping. I 
also plan to order more fabric there.

>What weight is good for pants and tunics?

Mid to heavy weight, depending on needs and season.

>And is it best to buy bleached linen then dye it or is it best to buy the 
>color you want?

I would suggest you buy the color you want, if you want a deep rich color. 
Linen can crock easily, and it is harder to accept dyes with linen. I have 
heard of a technique from John Marshall, a fiber artist I had a class with, 
where you use soy milk to make the dye bond better which prevents the 
crocking of the dyes, but haven't had the warm weather to try the technique 
out. I plan on doing this later in the summer when my fiber guild plans to 
play with indigo. He uses it with silk mainly, but has said it will work on 
cotton and linens. Wool doesn't need the help.

>  And the last question.  If you do dye it, is it best to dye it before 
> you sew the garb or after you sew the garb?

Before you sew the garb. In fact, you should heavily prewash the linen 
before you make anything, as it can shrink on you. Then dye the material if 
you plan on dyeing it, because if there is sizing on the linen, it will 
prevent the dye from being accepted by the linen. My first time I forgot to 
do this was the last time, as I have a lovely blue and white cloud fabric. 
I made a nightshirt from it instead, and remember the lesson well.


>Roscelin


hth, and good luck. Dyeing can be fun.

Kimiko

Kimiko Small
Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

Costume Mistress for Isle of Mann Guild
Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
http://www.costumegallery.com 

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jan 22 05:50:09 2004
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] gentlemans embroidered waistcoat 1766
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Hi,
Finally i can present to you the left finished side of the embroidered waistcoat after Gustav III's wedding suit.
It is embroidered with pipers silk floss and embellished with silver spangels, the smallest you can get.
There also are the 2 pocket flaps.
It has taken me months to make it.
You can notice in the big pictures, that i didnt embroider the places where the button holes are to be.
When this is completely finished ( the left pocket flap is not finished) i shall start to make the left jacket piece. This is the one wich is going to be embroidered with silk chenille.
I beg you to forgive the bad light in the pictures, but winter in Denmark is very dark.
The waistcoat is made of silk duchesse satin.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/chenillesuit.htm

Bjarne



Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jan 22 06:20:04 2004
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Wonderful, Bjarne! Your skill and patience are amazing.



>>> drewscph@post12.tele.dk 22/01/04 10:49:19 >>>
Hi,
Finally i can present to you the left finished side of the embroidered
waistcoat after Gustav III's wedding suit.

http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/chenillesuit.htm 



Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jan 22 07:40:33 2004
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Hi all.
 
  I recently heard about a source for linen that seems to be very affordable:
www.libertylinens.com
 I'm not sure about the quality and I've never ordered from them (neither 
did the person I heard about it from), but it seems like it might be 
worth investigating.

  The address for Textile Reproductions:

  Kathleen B. Smith
  Textile Reproductions
  Box 48
  Chesterfield, MA  01084

  (413)296-4437

  She sells a catalog as well that's $3.00.

  I would like to thank the person who started this thread about period 
textiles in Western Massachusetts! I live in Northampton, MA (about 15 
miles away from Chesterfield) and had never heard of anyone around here 
reproducing textiles. I had begun to despair because this year is 
Northampton's 350 birthday and though there are celebratory events 
planned, there don't seem to be any re-enactment things or any 
other (old) period-based projects planned. Most events so far revolve 
around famous figures during the last 50 years or so. But now that I know 
that there's someone in this area doing something 'older', I have hope again!

  By the way, there are loads of artists/artisans in the hill towns 
around and including Chesterfield, MA. I don't know how to find a listing 
for them, but thought I would mention it anyway. I know of one farm in 
Hawley, MA that specializes in hand dyed fibers (alpaca, mohair, wool, 
etc) and spins them into wonderful yarns. I think they also weave small 
amounts (blanket sized pieces) and sell those too. Not exactly costume 
related, but close enough, I thought.

  Kate!

ceu@shaysnet.com


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Ack. 

I've just realised that it's not 'Chesterfield', but rather 'West 
Chesterfield'.

SOrry about that.

  Kate!


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Both Lacis and Hedgehog Works are my first sources.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <kat@grendal.rain.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2004 2:07 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linen Sewing Thread


> 
> > Does anyone know where to buy linen sewing thread?  I need thread
> > that's fairly fine, say 50/3 weight.  There was a textile reproduction
> > business in Western Massachusetts where you could buy authentic fabric
> > and notions, including thread.
> > 
> > I lost the address, but I think the proprietor was called Kathryn.
> 
> I suspect you're asking about Kathleen B. Smith, Textile 
> Reproductions. Unfortunately, I haven't used them in many years but 
> they were very good. (And I don't have a current address. Hopefully 
> having the correct name will help.) I've gotten very nice indigo dyed 
> linen thread, but it was fairly heavy weight.
> 
> Have you tried weaving supply stores? I get my linen thread from 
> Robin & Russ Handweavers in McMinnville, Oregon. However, I can't 
> find the address. (I generally just day trip down there or try to hit 
> it when I'm down there for some other reason.) I know they do mail 
> order service. I've not gotten anything but white (bleached probably 
> as it is very white). Even if you get an old address, it will be the 
> right one because they haven't moved in the 19 years I've known about 
> them. 
> 
> Kat
> <kat@redtrollforge.com>
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> 
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linen Sewing Thread
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Hi Maryanne,
If you look for bobbin lace suppliers, they have a large range of linen
threads available.
The finest you get these days is 120/2 wich is very fine.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Maryanne" <mffski@ptd.net>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2004 7:34 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Linen Sewing Thread


Does anyone know where to buy linen sewing thread?  I need thread that's
fairly fine, say 50/3 weight.  There was a textile reproduction business in
Western Massachusetts where you could buy authentic fabric and notions,
including thread.

I lost the address, but I think the proprietor was called Kathryn.

Any advice would be most gratefully received,

Maryanne in Bethlehem, PA
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: LMBR experiences
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Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mn.rr.com> Wrote:

<snip for brevity>

Excellent stays pattern, the one I used as well.   The LMBR pattern is
actually designed to be worn with a petticoat with a canvas lined bodice so
that you are supported in a way that isn't modern but isn't the same as the
stays either.  Are you doing the cross over front bodice?  If so, it is
acceptable to have another fabric as a sort of placard to fill in the deep
"v" so that you aren't hanging out.  You can see what I did on my attempt
at this pattern.  http://www.dnaco.net/~drea/newboston/danielle7.jpg

	I opted to go with the round neckline because I wasn't sure about filling
in that gap, but this is good to know for future reference - I do like the
Regency silhouette and assuming I can get this pattern to do what I want I
can see myself using it again. Your version turned out VERY well, btw!

<snip>

The back waistline should be about where your bra-strap fits or slightly
higher.  I've seen some fashion plates that go up in a "v" at the back.  I
had a problem with the back being too low, that could have been because I
had to do so much fiddling but I'm not sure. Have a
look.  http://www.dnaco.net/~drea/newboston/danielle4.jpg  As for the
strap/armscye problem, I think you will just have to fudge it.  Take up the
strap to where it fits best than cut down the armscye until it is
comfortable.  Does that help or make sense?

	Does make sense. Right now the size 8 seems to be working, but inset
sleeves are a particular bugbear of mine so I was anticipating some tweaking
there anyway!

>Also, does this pattern run large or small? I cut for a size 12, but the
way
>it is fitting I'm suspecting I need a size 10 in the back and a size 6 in
>the front to make it look like the pattern envelope!

I hear that on larger sizes it fits perfectly.  On smaller size it runs
huge and is poorly scaled.  Basically it is useless for anyone using a 12
or under (I don't know about the middle teen sizes).  I also made a size 12
once and had to take out at least 4 inches on each back panel and I
scrapped the front altogether and winged it.

	I do remember our discussion right after I got this pattern at Costume Con
last year, so I'm not entirely surprised! I'm working on an 8, and not
finding it COMPLETELY useless (crosses fingers), but I am keeping yours and
others' warnings in mind. I am currently working on a full muslin before I
touch the good fabric. I do find it interesting that the skirt pieces seem
to be "one size fits all" for sizes 6-22, so I'm also taking Ann Wass's
suggestion re: removing skirt gores.

>Sorry to pummel with so many questions, but I feel like I am short of time
>and money - I cannot go out and get another company's pattern, so I must
>make La Mode Bagatelle work. Any suggestions anyone can offer will be
>appreciated beyond belief!!

Good luck Allison.  It is a difficult thing to fiddle with, it hope it
turns out for you.

	Thanks :) I'll let y'all know how this turns out - maybe I'll even get it
together enough to post some pictures somewhere!

Cheers,
Danielle

	Allison T.

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linen Sewing Thread
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On Thu, 22 Jan 2004, Lloyd Mitchell wrote:

> Both Lacis and Hedgehog Works are my first sources.

That woujld be Hedgehog Handworks, and I have also been happy with the
linen thread I got for them, for my occasional need for handsewing with
linen.

--Robin

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Catalina=20Saravia=20Quicedo?= <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Civil War Ballgown Patterns
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I'm pretty sure Martha researches her patterns.

--- IceGirlNIN@aol.com wrote: > In a message dated
1/21/2004 11:47:38 AM Eastern
> Standard Time, 
> vintage@shore.net writes:
> The dress is supported by this fashion plate(very
> long url):
> 
>
http://content-dev.lib.washington.edu/cgi-bin/pview.exe?CISOROOT=/costumehist&
>
CISOPTR=160&CISORESTMP=/search-templates/costume-results.html&CISOVIEWTMP=/sea
>
rch-templates/costume-view.html&CISOROWS=3&CISOCOLS=5
> 
> Oh my, that's so dead-on it's frightening! 
> (Simplicity actually based the 
> dress on something!) Except of course for the
> bodice.  I will be changing the 
> dress somewhat- no huge red flowers (possibly little
> white flowers instead), it 
> will be in deep blue, and there may be other
> changes- the pattern is being 
> mailed to me, and when I get it I'll be able to make
> suggestions.  The wearer and 
> I are also discussing whether I'll be making that
> hairpiece- no one in their 
> right mind would simply wear their hair down, with
> that dress.  It's simply a 
> matter of whether she has enough hair, and who can
> fix it for her (I won't be 
> able to, as I'll be about five hours away and at
> school at that time).  
> 


=====
Seńora Catalina
Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Movie opinion: "Possession" with Gwyneth Paltrow
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The stills on their website don't show much on the
dresses, but just from glancing I would say they look
ok. There is some blue dress that has odd looking
sleeves.



 --- Claudine Wong <claudine_on_the_net@yahoo.com>
wrote: > Hi!
> 
> All this talk about big skirts has made me think of
> the movie "Possession" which came out in 2002 and
> starred Gwyneth Paltrow and Jeremy Northam (among
> others). Have any of you seen this movie? I'm
> wondering how good the costumes are for the part of
> the story set in the past (1859). It's been a while
> since I've seen this movie, but I remember rather
> liking the dresses worn by the women (but I have no
> expertise in this time frame). There's also a scene
> where one woman is very pregnant.
> 
> Here's a random review:
> 
> http://www.bluntreview.com/reviews/possession.htm
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> Claudine
> 
> __________________________________
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=====
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Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit

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Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 10:06:48 EST
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: LMBR experiences
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In a message dated 1/22/2004 8:52:31 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
athurman@cybergal.com writes:
I'm also taking Ann Wass's
suggestion re: removing skirt gores.
I should add that I realize that the circumference of Regency-era skirts 
could vary, from about 72" to over 100".  (Many period examples have the skirt 
panels cut selvege to selvege, regardless of the width of the fabric, but 
remember that period fabrics are usually 27-30", with the occasional 36" width, 
except for wool broadcloth.  So I have to cut a strip off my 45" to 60" fabric but 
can often use that to cut part of the bodice.)  I like my 72" circumference, 
think it gives a good look, it is quick and easy for me to cut, and only takes 
2 lengths of fabric.  Front and back panels are 18" wide, with the front sides 
having a curve at the top taking off 1" on each side, almost like the cut of 
a curved dart.  I think this is to solve the problem of the hang over the 
tummy, which Louisa Pineault solves by raising the front waist slightly.  I like 
my method better because I can actually hem and trim the skirt before I sew it 
to the bodice.  The 2 side gores are straight along the front seam, while the 
back is gored by cutting the hem 18"  but slanting in to 15" at the waist. 
(This makes this seam a tad longer than the back piece, but I usually fudge that 
by easing in the extra fullness.)  I either pleat or gather the skirt, with 
the gathers or pleats decreasing towards the front seam, and the front panel is 
perfectly flat.
For a back opening gown, I cut a placket in the center back of that piece.  
For front opening, I leave the front seam open down both sides for a few inches.

Ann Wass
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From: KATHRYN WOLTERS <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] gentlemans embroidered waistcoat 1766
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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It's beautiful, Barne--
Albra

Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
Hi,
Finally i can present to you the left finished side of the embroidered waistcoat after Gustav III's wedding suit.
It is embroidered with pipers silk floss and embellished with silver spangels, the smallest you can get.
There also are the 2 pocket flaps.
It has taken me months to make it.
You can notice in the big pictures, that i didnt embroider the places where the button holes are to be.
When this is completely finished ( the left pocket flap is not finished) i shall start to make the left jacket piece. This is the one wich is going to be embroidered with silk chenille.
I beg you to forgive the bad light in the pictures, but winter in Denmark is very dark.
The waistcoat is made of silk duchesse satin.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/chenillesuit.htm

Bjarne



Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
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Bjarne,

Once again your embroidery is fantastic. The detail that you have put into each blossom really makes the look rich and (dare I say it?) baroque. The project looks like it's going very well. Keep posting your pics to inspire us.


Karen

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Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:

>> Where is the best place on the web to buy linen?
> 
> http://www.fabric.com/ (wonderful service, great items)

Just a comment: they have great linen and blends, make sure you know 
which you are buying, but it tends to be seasonal. Right now they are 
selling the last of the linen at clearance. No, I spoke too soon, the 
linen is gone but they have some blends left. Looks like the new stock 
has come in at regular price.


> http://www.fabrics-store.com/ (scrutinize images carefully, their stuff has
> a tendency to have lots of slubs, but their 3.5 oz linen is fine)

These folks have linen year 'round.


You can also get it undyed from dharmatrading.com , at a pretty good 
price if you and a friend are needing a whole bolt.




Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linen Sewing Thread
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Or, you can get hand spun linen thread from Claire Moore.  Not that one
could afford too much, but what a lovely service she offers!
http://yourpage.blazenet.net/moores_c/

Lisa

----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2004 7:36 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linen Sewing Thread


>
> On Thu, 22 Jan 2004, Lloyd Mitchell wrote:
>
> > Both Lacis and Hedgehog Works are my first sources.
>
> That woujld be Hedgehog Handworks, and I have also been happy with the
> linen thread I got for them, for my occasional need for handsewing with
> linen.
>
> --Robin
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>


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Here is the web addy for Robin and Russ...
http://www.robinandruss.com/

Althea

On Wednesday, January 21, 2004, at 11:07 PM, kat@grendal.rain.com wrote:

> Robin & Russ Handweavers in McMinnville, Oregon
Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com
*** http://www.alfalfapress.com

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> If you look for bobbin lace suppliers, they have a large range of
> linen threads available. The finest you get these days is 120/2 wich
> is very fine.

Unfortunately, many of the bobbin lace threads won't work for sewing. 
They tend to fray off after even just a few stitches and break as 
you're trying to pull even the first stitch. I have many reels of 
bobbin lace thread which I initially got for sewing which just won't 
work for it, even amongst the larger threads. I find weaving thread 
to be much better.

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Bjarne, I always love to look at your projects. The embroidery is fantastic and I desperately need to feel the chenille embroidery. I have yet to attempt that.
Thank you for sharing, Angelique


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Just wanted to thank y'all for all the help, with special hugs to Annora
who went way beyond the call.  MUCHAS gratefulness!

- Lil (who is now wondering about fabric choices .. LOL)
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Subject: [h-cost] Spanish Farthingale Help!
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I finished my pair of bodies and moved onto my Farthingale (Finally) I opted for a pattern with a similar silhouette. It uses 4 yards cotton drill, 33yards 1/2" flexible tubing and 22yards 1" wide ribbon. My problem is 1" wide ribbon is quite pricey(50 cents per yard), even using twill tape it will be 36 cents per yard. Is there a cheaper solution? I thought about using some older cotton sheeting to make the channels, thus getting rid of a horrid old sheet and saving money. What do you think? Any suggestions are , as always, greatly appreciated, Angelique


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Subject: [h-cost] web address for Textile Reproductions
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Thought I'd take a look and see if she was on the web, and yes, she is:

http://www.textilereproductions.com/

M.
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Linen Sewing Thread
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> If you look for bobbin lace suppliers, they have a large range of
> linen threads available. The finest you get these days is 120/2 wich
> is very fine.

Unfortunately, many of the bobbin lace threads won't work for sewing. 
They tend to fray off after even just a few stitches and break as 
you're trying to pull even the first stitch. I have many reels of 
bobbin lace thread which I initially got for sewing which just won't 
work for it, even amongst the larger threads. I find weaving thread 
to be much better.
>>>>
I use 40/2 linen thread from the-mannings.com for all my sewing.  You
have to use shorter lengths than with other threads and I always wax it,
but it works well.

Kass


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Spanish Farthingale Help!
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me wrote:

>  My problem is 1" wide ribbon is quite pricey(50 cents per yard), even using twill tape it will be 36 cents per yard. Is there a cheaper solution? 


Hancocks usually has a bin of ugly no-name "undetermined content" 
single-faced ribbon for $1.29 per spool. Spools average about 5 yards 
and come in all widths. They can be as cheap as 79 cents a spool during 
sales. If you aren't particular about color these can be great buys. I 
pick them up from time to time for use as cat toys.



Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Spanish Farthingale Help!
From: Lynn Downward <LDownward@chori.org>
To: h costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I've made several farthingales. I made them up as I went along, so I can't
really give you advice related to a pattern. However, I think that old
sheets aren't going to be sturdy enough for the boning; they'll tear easily.
If I misunderstood and you're talking about old but unused sheeting, it
could work. I buy wide, single-fold pre-made seam binding and I've never had
a problem with that. Raw edges are already turned under, ready to use
straight from the package so it saves me lots of time. It's also bias cut so
it goes around curves better, and the whole skirt is curved. I'm usually
working under a time crunch, so I'm more than willing to spend some extra
money to save myself the several hours it would take to make my own strips,
folding under raw edges, etc.
LynnD


On 1/22/04 10:41 AM, "me" <ivycircle@yahoo.com> wrote:

> I finished my pair of bodies and moved onto my Farthingale (Finally) I opted
> for a pattern with a similar silhouette. It uses 4 yards cotton drill, 33yards
> 1/2" flexible tubing and 22yards 1" wide ribbon. My problem is 1" wide ribbon
> is quite pricey(50 cents per yard), even using twill tape it will be 36 cents
> per yard. Is there a cheaper solution? I thought about using some older cotton
> sheeting to make the channels, thus getting rid of a horrid old sheet and
> saving money. What do you think? Any suggestions are , as always, greatly
> appreciated, Angelique
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jan 22 15:19:54 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Spanish Farthingale Help!
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What about 7/8" grosgrain ribbon? I just picked up a spool at Joanns for
$3 - 18 ft per spool. That's 6 yds per spool...you'd need 4 spools...I just
always like to have some around - it comes in handy!

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot
BRF FOF; Guilde of St. Lawrence

A room without books is like a body without a soul
---Cicero

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************



----- Original Message -----
From: "me" <ivycircle@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2004 12:41 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Spanish Farthingale Help!


> I finished my pair of bodies and moved onto my Farthingale (Finally) I
opted for a pattern with a similar silhouette. It uses 4 yards cotton drill,
33yards 1/2" flexible tubing and 22yards 1" wide ribbon. My problem is 1"
wide ribbon is quite pricey(50 cents per yard), even using twill tape it
will be 36 cents per yard. Is there a cheaper solution? I thought about
using some older cotton sheeting to make the channels, thus getting rid of a
horrid old sheet and saving money. What do you think? Any suggestions are ,
as always, greatly appreciated, Angelique
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it!
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jan 22 15:29:28 2004
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From: mlysett <mlysett@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linen
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I've bought a lot of linen from www.denverfabrics.com.  Great customer
service, fast shipping (which means a lot when it has to go
cross-country), and the linen was the highest quality I've seen yet for
under $30/yard.  I used to always recommend www.fabrics-store.com
first, but I switched to denver fabrics about a year ago.  You will pay
a few more dollars a yard, but the quality, in my opinion, makes it
worth it.
Just my two cents.
Margaret

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jan 22 16:06:03 2004
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Not sure if you have an Ikea near you, but they typically sell linen for $5.99 a yard, except when
it goes on sale for $2.99 a yard. Its usually medium
weight, sometimes lighter, in whatever *fashion* color
of the moment. 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Civil War Ballgown Patterns
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In a message dated 1/22/2004 10:00:07 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
ladyforbeys@yahoo.com writes:
I'm pretty sure Martha researches her patterns.

Oh, I'm not saying that Ms. McCain doesn't- given the patterns I've seen that 
are drafted/designed by her, I'd say that she's the best/one of the best out 
of the "Big 4".  My "Wow, Simplicity actually based the dress on something!" 
was more because I'm usually into Elizabethan clothing/costumes.  Which the Big 
4 don't do quite as well on (with the notable exception of Simplicity's SiL 
costume, as far as I can see).  

Christine
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Farthingale help
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Angelique
If you're using plastic tubing, I can assume you're not hung up on
historical accuracy!  When I make mock-ups of any sort of hoop, farthingale,
pannier, I do just what you said - use old fabric to make the casing.  I cut
it with a rotary cutter and then after seaming the strips, I run the edges
through the serger.
Martha


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> I finished my pair of bodies and moved onto my Farthingale (Finally) I
> opted for a pattern with a similar silhouette. It uses 4 yards cotton
> drill, 33yards 1/2" flexible tubing and 22yards 1" wide ribbon. My
> problem is 1" wide ribbon is quite pricey(50 cents per yard), even
> using twill tape it will be 36 cents per yard. Is there a cheaper
> solution? I thought about using some older cotton sheeting to make the
> channels, thus getting rid of a horrid old sheet and saving money.
> What do you think? Any suggestions are , as always, greatly
> appreciated, Angelique

If you can't find "spool-O" ribbon in the right width (which usually 
is *much* cheaper than regular ribbon), and you can't find a bulk 
twill tape source cheap enough, I'd suggest using bias tape. You can 
make your own (but please don't use an old sheet as it will tear at 
the worst possible time) or buy it (even in colors) which usually 
works out much cheaper than ribbon. 

If you have any of the drill left, that would be good for making bias 
tape. Many regular sewing books (such as the Singer sewing book and 
all the old standbys) show how to make it. If you buy a bias tape 
maker (which is a little metal thing which helps turn the edges while 
you're ironing it), they usually have directions in them on how to 
make the tape from yardage. You can find them in all sorts of sizes, 
including 1", usually in the quilt making section.

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 14:19:54 -0500
Subject: Re: [h-cost] gentlemans embroidered waistcoat 1766
From: ruthanne baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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What a privilege to see this exquisite work.

Ruth Anne Baumgartner
costumer and scholar gypsy


on 1/22/04 10:37 AM, KATHRYN WOLTERS at albrakat7@yahoo.com wrote:

> It's beautiful, Barne--
> Albra
> 
> Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
> Hi,
> Finally i can present to you the left finished side of the embroidered
> waistcoat after Gustav III's wedding suit.
> It is embroidered with pipers silk floss and embellished with silver spangels,
> the smallest you can get.
> There also are the 2 pocket flaps.
> It has taken me months to make it.
> You can notice in the big pictures, that i didnt embroider the places where
> the button holes are to be.
> When this is completely finished ( the left pocket flap is not finished) i
> shall start to make the left jacket piece. This is the one wich is going to be
> embroidered with silk chenille.
> I beg you to forgive the bad light in the pictures, but winter in Denmark is
> very dark.
> The waistcoat is made of silk duchesse satin.
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/chenillesuit.htm
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> _______________________________________________

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Too wonderful for mere words, Bjarne.  Tell Leaf from me that he should
consider himself a very lucky man to be married to someone this talented.

Stephen Bergdahl

One thing you got to say about the Republicans, they don't give up easily.
Impeach Clinton, steal Florida, redistrict Texas, recall Davis.  You know
what , these guys had better watch out or they're going to get slapped with
the reputation of being extremely sore losers.


----- Original Message -----
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2004 2:49 AM
Subject: [h-cost] gentlemans embroidered waistcoat 1766


Hi,
Finally i can present to you the left finished side of the embroidered
waistcoat after Gustav III's wedding suit.
It is embroidered with pipers silk floss and embellished with silver
spangels, the smallest you can get.
There also are the 2 pocket flaps.
It has taken me months to make it.
You can notice in the big pictures, that i didnt embroider the places where
the button holes are to be.
When this is completely finished ( the left pocket flap is not finished) i
shall start to make the left jacket piece. This is the one wich is going to
be embroidered with silk chenille.
I beg you to forgive the bad light in the pictures, but winter in Denmark is
very dark.
The waistcoat is made of silk duchesse satin.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/chenillesuit.htm

Bjarne



Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jan 22 18:06:13 2004
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From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] men's "scholars" gowns
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Greetings all,

Does anyone know where I can find clear, color images (portraits?) of 
men in 16th century scholar's gowns?

I have Patterns of Fashion with the tiny little drawings from the 
tailors books and the accompanying pattern layouts. I'd like to find 
something my middle aged eyes can see. Particularly I am trying to 
figure out where the sleeve seam goes for the big puffy variation, and 
how they close in the front.

I was also wondering if these ever appear in any color other than black, 
and if they were ever trimmed. The POF images are not in color so I 
don't know how they might have appeared in real life.



Dawn



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> In fact, you should heavily prewash the linen
> before you make anything, as it can shrink on you.
Actually, it WILL shrink on you. Repeatedly. Wash in hot water at least
twice.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: linen source and 'Textile Reproductions'
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 17:57:15 -0500
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>   I recently heard about a source for linen that seems to be very
affordable:
> www.libertylinens.com
>  I'm not sure about the quality and I've never ordered from them (neither
> did the person I heard about it from), but it seems like it might be
> worth investigating.

It might be worth it if their stuff is of superior quality to what we can
find elsewhere, but the prices can't compete with www.fabric.com and
www.fabrics-store.com . It might still be interesting though. If someone
orders from them, let us know what you think.
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> >> Where is the best place on the web to buy linen?
> >
> > http://www.fabric.com/ (wonderful service, great items)
>
> Just a comment: they have great linen and blends, make sure you know
> which you are buying,

They're not in the same category though, so unless you actually click on
"linen blends" link there's no way to make that mistake.

> but it tends to be seasonal. Right now they are
> selling the last of the linen at clearance.

Because they're going to get some soon (Spring, you know, is the time of the
year where we see it in regular fabric stores). I've never seen them
actually run out of linen. I think their present stock is the lowest I've
ever seen.

> You can also get it undyed from dharmatrading.com , at a pretty good
> price if you and a friend are needing a whole bolt.

Dharmatrading also have very interesting stuff in silk and hemp. All undyed
except some black. Good quality, as far as I know. I've ordered only once,
but I know they have good customer service (they answer email fairly quickly
and in detail, for one thing :-)
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linen Sources
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> Not sure if you have an Ikea near you, but they typically sell linen for
$5.99 a yard, except when
> it goes on sale for $2.99 a yard. Its usually medium
> weight, sometimes lighter, in whatever *fashion* color
> of the moment.

Oooh... I'd forgotten about that! Thanks for reminding me! I remember being
all excited last time I looked around the Ikea store and found linen so
inexpensive!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linen
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> I've bought a lot of linen from www.denverfabrics.com.  Great customer
> service, fast shipping (which means a lot when it has to go
> cross-country), and the linen was the highest quality I've seen yet for
> under $30/yard.  I used to always recommend www.fabrics-store.com
> first, but I switched to denver fabrics about a year ago.  You will pay
> a few more dollars a yard, but the quality, in my opinion, makes it
> worth it.

I have to agree with you about www.fabrics-store.com . I've received slubby
linen several times from them. On the other hand, www.fabric.com 's linen
has always been smooth as butter. I can't compare with www.denverfabrics.com
though, I've never bought linen from them. They have some interesting silk
though, and I have cotton velvet on the way right now :-)
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Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:

>>>http://www.fabric.com/ (wonderful service, great items)
>>
>>Just a comment: they have great linen and blends, make sure you know
>>which you are buying,
> 
> 
> They're not in the same category though, so unless you actually click on
> "linen blends" link there's no way to make that mistake.
> 

Thay have in the past put the linen and linen-blends on the same page, 
which is how I ended up making that mistake in ordering.  It was a 
clearance sale, and stock was low enough that they mixed it up on one 
webpage.



Dawn



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>Dharmatrading also have very interesting stuff in silk and hemp. 

Speaking of hemp, does anyone use hemp fabric for any areas of costuming?  

What is the history of hemp as fabric?  And ramie, and/or nettles for that matter?

Heidi

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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: Hemp, etc. in costuming (was [h-cost] Linen)
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 21:17:16 -0500
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Heidi wrote:
<<What is the history of hemp as fabric?  And ramie, and/or nettles for
that matter?>>

Hemp (and ramie and nettles) is a bast fibre, like flax/linen.  The
textile fibres come from the long stem of the plant.  The vegetation has
to be rotted away before the fibres can be freed and spun into useful
material.  

The use of hemp as a textile fibre is almost as old as the use of flax
I'm given to understand.  I have read some documents that do not
distinguish between hemp linen and flax linen.  And I've been told by a
textile engineer (perhaps on this list?) that they are
indistinguishable, even under a microscope.  The only way to tell the
difference between hemp and flax linen fibres is to do chemical tests on
the fibres.  

If I am mislead, please someone correct me.  I'm just operating from
memory.

Another snipped I seem to remember is that hemp was more commonly in use
as sailcloth because it was more rot-resistant than flax linen.  I don't
know if hemp bleaches as easily as flax linen, but if it doesn't, it
might indicate that hemp was a less sought-after fabric (and possibly
also cheaper) because it didn't get as white.

I can't quote statistics on the use of hemp version flax linen in Europe
during the Middle Ages, but I bet someone on this list can enlighten us.
=)

Kass
Reconstructing History Patterns
http://reconstructinghistory.com
Join Our Pattern Discussion List:
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I just bought all the Simplicity Civil War era patterns but have a questions for those of you who know about this time period. There are several different undergarment patterns( petite coats and corsets) and at first look I can't find information about which set should be worn with what dress. If any one knows which pattern number set should be made & worn for each dress I would greatly appreciate it.
Many Thanks
Ysandra
now looking at Civil War Ballgown Patterns
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Subject: Re: Hemp, etc. in costuming (was [h-cost] Linen)
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In a message dated 1/22/2004 9:17:38 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
historian@reconstructinghistory.com writes:
And I've been told by a
textile engineer (perhaps on this list?) that they are
indistinguishable, even under a microscope.  The only way to tell the
difference between hemp and flax linen fibres is to do chemical tests on
the fibres.  
It is probably the other way around--they are, I believe, chemically 
identical but look slightly different under the microscope.  When I took textile 
microscopy, we did not look at hemp, but we did look at ramie and flax.  They are 
similar, but can be distinguished from each other.

Hemp was, of course, also used for cordage.

Ann Wass
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Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

>Hi,
>Finally i can present to you the left finished side of the embroidered waistcoat after Gustav III's wedding suit.
>It is embroidered with pipers silk floss and embellished with silver spangels, the smallest you can get.
>There also are the 2 pocket flaps.
>It has taken me months to make it.
>You can notice in the big pictures, that i didnt embroider the places where the button holes are to be.
>When this is completely finished ( the left pocket flap is not finished) i shall start to make the left jacket piece. This is the one wich is going to be embroidered with silk chenille.
>I beg you to forgive the bad light in the pictures, but winter in Denmark is very dark.
>The waistcoat is made of silk duchesse satin.
>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/chenillesuit.htm
>
>  
>
Bjarne it is simply stunning.  You'll be much admired in that jacket. Can't wait till its finished and we get to see photos of you waering it.


Di, green with envy, in awe of the work.


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Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 19:58:47 -0800
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> The use of hemp as a textile fibre is almost as old as the use of flax
> I'm given to understand.  I have read some documents that do not
> distinguish between hemp linen and flax linen.  And I've been told by
> a textile engineer (perhaps on this list?) that they are
> indistinguishable, even under a microscope.  The only way to tell the
> difference between hemp and flax linen fibres is to do chemical tests
> on the fibres.  

I suspect the textile engineer (or memory) got them reversed. 
According to the textile books I have they look different but they 
are both the same cellulose and the like when you look at them 
chemically. 

The cross section especially looks different. There is an irregular 
oval in the center of a flax fibre whereas in the hemp fibre there is 
sort of a trilobate center.

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] gentlemans embroidered waistcoat 1766
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>Hi,
>Finally i can present to you the left finished side of the embroidered
waistcoat after Gustav III's wedding suit.

Wow, you do some brill work,. what patience

Mel

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Hi,
I must admit that when it comes to underwear like supports, i am not that historicall accurate. For my paniers is made of cotton muslin and the boning cases i make of cut strips of the same material, so you could do the same, if you dont have anybody to examin your underwear. The most important in my oppinion is that you get the right shape and the best support for your dress.

Bjarne





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Subject: [h-cost] 18th century quilting stitches 2
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Hi,
If i were you, i would not bother to try to make it accurate as it was. I am sure the thread they sewed the stitches with was much finer than the thread we use today. 
It is the same with bobbin lace. Today you would not be able to make a 18th century bobbin lace, because the thread was so incredible fine.
Also you must think about the proportions. 18th century people were much smaller than we are today, and therefore you should blow everything up in the right proportions, including the stitching.
Just my 2 cents.

Bjarne 





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Subject: Re: [h-cost] men's "scholars" gowns
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>Does anyone know where I can find clear, color images (portraits?) of men 
>in 16th century scholar's gowns?

Holbein drawings/paintings.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Rachel?= <rachel_holliday@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] UK Brownie Guide Uniforms
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Mel, how old do you want?  I still have mine from nearly 20 years ago (God that makes me sound
old!).  Email me off list and I can take some digital photos and send them to you.

Rachel

 --- Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk> wrote: > Has anyone got any pictures of old
Brownie Uniforms please ?
> 
> Mel
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>Mel, how old do you want?

I thought that read how old am I !

>  I still have mine from nearly 20 years ago (God that makes me sound
old!).  Email me off list and I can take some digital photos and send them
to you.

I have mine from 35 years ago how old does that make me !

I'm looking for WW2 and the very early Rosebuds ones in preferance but my
daughter is doing the history of them so any would do, I have NO photos of
me in it however, but I'll probably dress her up and take some, it is the
brown cotton dress with pochets yellow cross tie type ?

Mel


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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] UK Brownie Guide Uniforms
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I was a Brownie in the late 1950s, but don't have any photos. I can only
remember that I wore a brown dress with "military" pockets and a brown
knitted cap.

>>> MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk 23/01/04 13:16:20 >>>
I have mine from 35 years ago how old does that make me !

I'm looking for WW2 and the very early Rosebuds ones in preferance but
my
daughter is doing the history of them so any would do, I have NO photos
of
me in it however, but I'll probably dress her up and take some, it is
the
brown cotton dress with pochets yellow cross tie type ?

Mel


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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Catalina=20Saravia=20Quicedo?= <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Simiplicty patterns
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I'm no expert, but I'm learning. Petticoats were worn
over hoops to avoid the 'lampshade' look that boning
can give a hoop. some cotton day dresses/work dresses
didn't use corsets or hoops. just petticoats. These
were usually bodices gathered into a waistband and
simple gathered skirts. better day dresses and ball
gowns used the whole gamut of undergarments. corset,
pantaloons, chemise, petticoats and hoop.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CWCivilian/
this group can probably help you with finer details.


 --- ysandra sliverneedle <ysandra8@msn.com> wrote: >
I just bought all the Simplicity Civil War era
> patterns but have a questions for those of you who
> know about this time period. There are several
> different undergarment patterns( petite coats and
> corsets) and at first look I can't find information
> about which set should be worn with what dress. If
> any one knows which pattern number set should be
> made & worn for each dress I would greatly
> appreciate it.
> Many Thanks
> Ysandra
> now looking at Civil War Ballgown Patterns
> _______________________________________________
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>
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=====
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Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] UK Brownie Guide Uniforms
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 --- Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk> wrote: > >Mel, how old do you want?
> 
> I thought that read how old am I !

Sorry, I'm not so impolite as to ask a lady's age.

> I'm looking for WW2 and the very early Rosebuds ones in preferance but my
> daughter is doing the history of them so any would do, I have NO photos of

I can have a check through my mums photo albums and see if there are any of her in her uniform,
she was born in 49 so it's  bit later but not by much.

> me in it however, but I'll probably dress her up and take some, it is the
> brown cotton dress with pochets yellow cross tie type ?

That's the one!  If I look very hard I might even be able to find my brown bobble hat to go with
it.

 


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] men's "scholars" gowns
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Dawn wrote:
> Does anyone know where I can find clear, color images (portraits?) of 
> men in 16th century scholar's gowns?
>
> I have Patterns of Fashion with the tiny little drawings from the 
> tailors books and the accompanying pattern layouts. I'd like to find 
> something my middle aged eyes can see. Particularly I am trying to 
> figure out where the sleeve seam goes for the big puffy variation, and 
> how they close in the front.
>
> I was also wondering if these ever appear in any color other than black, 
> and if they were ever trimmed. The POF images are not in color so I 
> don't know how they might have appeared in real life.

The pictures from PoF are also available at
http://costume.dm.net/Tailors/ so that will give you a bigger image than
what you see in Arnold's pictures.

I have tried the sleeves from the Milanese Tailors Handbook, the ones
shaped like a P (see http://costume.dm.net/Tailors/pages/f87L.html), and
actually if you just trust and do it you'll find that it works.

The only one I know of in any colour other than black is the shag-lined
robe in PoF.  It's not a scholar's robe really, just a long robe.  I
think the black = scholar thing is pretty firm.  I've never seen them
trimmed but that doesn't mean that they never were.  If I were doing it
I'd go for black-on-black trim, perhaps just some subtle couched cord or
something.

K.
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Kirrily Robert wrote:

> The pictures from PoF are also available at
> http://costume.dm.net/Tailors/ so that will give you a bigger image than
> what you see in Arnold's pictures.

Terrific! Thanks. I had spent a couple hours the other night and somehow 
never found this site.


There's an image of 'gentleman's attire' (f80r) that's in red, which is 
perfect. Trim in red (couched?) and gold... Most of the black gowns I 
can't see a darn thing on other than the outline. :(




Dawn



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Subject: Re: Hemp, etc. in costuming (was [h-cost] Linen)
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[Apologies for dropping out of previous conversations before finished. My husband was recently in a very nasty car accident, in which he was hit by a garbage truck, a concrete wall, and one or two other cars in the resulting pileup, all going freeway speed. Any prayers, etc, would be very welcome--he and everyone else miraculously survived, but his back and shoulder are pretty messed up. However, he's back at work today--yay! And he drove himself--I'm a bundle of raw nerves.]

Over the past few months, I've been looking into hemp as a replacement for more expensive or hard-to-find weaves of linen--it all started because I could NOT find a tight, unslubby flax linen herringbone that was heavy enough, narrow enough, and under about $50/yd. (Doesn't a pure linen corset sound nice? I'm also looking for something that would serve well for those late Vict. mesh summer corsets.) 

I haven't been able to pick up too much detail on the research side; the problem being, of course, that they just didn't differentiate between the two all that often. What I have found suggests that it was just plain a geographical/climatic choice: if they grew hemp, they used it; if they grew flax, they used it; if they grew both, they used both. If you have a specific date and location that you're tied to, you'd of course need to research specifically, but was it used in medieval Europe, to make fabric, and was the fabric then traded? Yes. 

Here's a quick, not too coherent summary of my even less coherent notes; below that are a few practical notes for hemp experiments:

Herodotus makes early mention of hemp fabrics, noting that the Scythians and Thracians were able to produce finely woven hemp cloth: "Someone without great experience would not recognize whether they were of hemp or linen, and whoever has not yet seen hemp cloth would think the garments were of linen." Goths are thought to have originated the use of hemp in central Europe in the 2nd & 3rd centuries. Italy is tied to the use of hemp for high-quality fabrics (Marie de Medici had two hemp 'blouses' [presumably chemises] in her trousseau), while Russia is tied to the extensive cultivation of both hemp and flax; one of the major exports of the Muscovy Company in the second half of the 16th C was hemp. The area from the northern Baltic region to southern Italy was best suited to hemp cultivation; hemp grows wild around the Caspian sea.  Lincolnshire had an excellent climate and soil for hemp, and the first Encyclopedia Brittannica mentions that they could produce crops year after year without fertilizer. Shakespeare mentions 'hempen homespun'; an English 1615 instructional work teaches how to grow, harvest, and process hemp.  The hemp-weavers' guild is older than the linen-weavers' guild, suggesting that hemp may have been more commonly used than flax until the late 14th century. The preparation of hemp (and flax) fibers inspired some of the earliest 'anti-pollution' laws.

Archaeological finds of hemp are probably a lot more common than we know, as flax, hemp, and often nettle are all referred to as linen by many archaeologists.  [As an interesting aside, where many western European archaeologists refer to these as 'linen' by default, according to Alastair Miller Czech archaeologists refer to these bast fibers as 'hemp' by default.] However, finds of hemp include the 12th C layers of Gniezno, and early 9th and mid 10th C finds from Birka (graves 619 & 837, and a few more). The funeral garments of Queen Arnegunde include a hempen tunic, and seeds were found aboard the Oseberg ship.

A good online article is found at:
http://www.gallowglass.org/jadwiga/SCA/hempnettle.html 

Short, unformatted bibliography:
--R.J. Forbes, "Studies in Ancient Technology", vol IV (EJ Brill, 1987, copyright 1956/1964)
--Gervase Markham's "English Housewife", 1615
--"Medieval farming and technology : the impact of agricultural change in northwest Europe", edited by G. Astill and J. Langdon, New York : Brill, 1997
--"Women's Work: The First 20,000 Years" by Elizabeth Wayland Barber; ISBN 0-393-03506-9.
--"The Book of Fine Linen", by Françoise de Bonneville (Paris: Flammarion , 1994)
--"Advances in Hemp Research" (edited by Paolo Ranalli, New York : Food Products Press, 1999)
--"POLONIA SIVE DE SITU, POPULIS, MORIBUS, MAGISTRATIBUS ET REPUBLICA REGNI POLONICI LIBRI DUO" by Marcin Kromer, first time printed in 1575, then 1578, Book one: subtitle: Occupations of Woman
--John P. Wild: Textiles in Archaeology , Shire Archaeology Series, Shire Publications LTD., l988
--Ibn al-'Awwam, "Book of Agriculture"
--Geijer, Agnes, "A History of Textile Art" London: Pasold Research Fund in association with Sotheby Parke Bernet Publications, Totowa, NJ, 1979, ISBN 0 85667 055 3 

Practical notes:
If you're looking for a tabby linen, and do not specifically need hemp, go with flax; the same quality and weights are less expensive in flax than in hemp, at least at the moment. However, you can get various weights of hemp tabby linen for under $10. 

Hemp linen should be put to about the same use as flax linens. For example, if it would not be appropriate to use a flax linen for your outer garment, a hemp linen would not be appropriate either. Tunics, undertunics and undergowns, chemises, etc, should be fine, as would towels and other household linens; hemp was used in needlework; blacksmiths, naval, and military personnel can no doubt find many uses. The same dyeing difficulties exist with hemp as with flax, so in most periods you would not commonly see hemp in an outer garment, although Viking types may have more leeway there based on the finds. 

Various interesting weaves are available in hemp, and some very nice blends as well, including hemp/silk and hemp/wool. I did find my nice, tight, narrow, smooth herringbone in hemp, from http://www.hempsupply.com although I've yet to make anything with it. Speaking of which, my review of the sample set they send out is available at the authentic fabrics group:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/authenticfabric message #344; I'll also be reviewing about 10 hemp and hemp blends from:
http://www.nearseanaturals.com and
http://www.wildnwoolygoods.com as soon as the samples arrive.
I'd give a list of more hemp suppliers, but there's just plain too many. Go to Google, and do the following search: <hemp fabric yd OR yard>. <hemp linen historical> also turns up several good hemp suppliers, mostly geared towards 18th C reenactment, but more expensive overall.
For non-tabby weaves and interesting blends, expect to pay between $8-$20/yd. However, the price does vary widely from supplier to supplier, so be sure to compare. I've been basing my comparison on the heavy 'pinwheel' weave hemp:
http://www.hempsupply.com/fabric/D4163.asp
it's easily recognizeable, and is sold by nearly all the hemp suppliers. Comparing the price of that should give you a good idea of how much each supplier marks up the fabric.

I've yet to find any hemp I'd be happy using as hand-sewing thread, though I'm sure it's possible to produce such a thing; using threads pulled from the cloth wasn't met with much success either. It sews well with everything else I've tried on it, though flax linen seems to wear out faster going through hemp--use even shorter lengths and more wax/conditioner than normal. However, that could be simply because overall, I was using the flax linen thread on heavier weights of cloth than normal--the average weight of the fabric I've tested was a tightly woven ~12oz. The finely spun silk 3-ply I tried worked very nicely.

I'll be using a hemp or hemp/silk blend to make two modern garments (well, 'old west' themed modern sci-fi, if you can picture that--lining for Mal and Zoe's coats, if you can REALLY picture that!) as soon as I've picked one from the samples; I'll let you all know how well it makes up.

-E
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An IKEA store with fabric? The Pittsburgh store hasn't carried fabric for
years, though I used to get all kinds of cool fabric there. I just assumed
all the stores stopped carrying it, or all the US stores, anyway.

Gail Finke
from IKEA-less Cincinnati

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Bjarne:

That is so beautiful! I think you are like Cinderella, except that you don't
have a fairy godmother, so you have to make your own things. They are that
lovely, just like magic. I like to think of you working hard all day, with a
closet full of magic clothes at home.

Gail Finke

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Hi,
A friend sended me this link, and i thoaght you would like to see. Sigh i wish i was a millionaire
http://www.coutaubegarie.com/php/catalogue/diaporama_vente.php?id_vente=236


Bjarne


Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
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>If i were you, i would not bother to try to make it accurate as it was. I 
>am sure the thread they sewed the stitches with was much finer than the 
>thread we use today.
>It is the same with bobbin lace. Today you would not be able to make a 
>18th century bobbin lace, because the thread was so incredible fine.
>Also you must think about the proportions. 18th century people were much 
>smaller than we are today, and therefore you should blow everything up in 
>the right proportions, including the stitching.
>Just my 2 cents.

Coming from you, this is a valuable two cents.  I had begun to get 
discouraged. I have been trying to get my stitches shorter, using a shorter 
thinner needle and thinner batting, and there seemed to be a limit of what 
the material would allow me to do.  The other problem, of course, is that 
freehand embroidery is not what I'm best at (I got a workmanship award at 
one CostumeCon for my counted thread cross stitch).  So I will continue to 
work on getting my stitches even, and will go ahead with my original 
plan.  Thank you so much.

I'm almost finished quilting my pocket, and will post an image of it when I 
get the binding on it.  It's a first try at fine quilting, and I'm 
embarrassed to say that the stitches got bigger as the hour of the day got 
later.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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My goodness, thank you!   That's a wealth of information and some welcome 
links!

I often use hemp for other sewing projects, not only because of its 
absorbency and mildew resistance, but because I'd really like to support 
the industry.  It only occurred to me recently to wonder if I could use it 
in my historical projects.

And my thoughts and prayers go out to your husband and your family--sounds 
like a miraculous twist of fate that he is alive.

Heidi


At 12:46 PM 1/23/2004 -0600, you wrote:
><snip>I've been looking into hemp <snip>
>-E
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From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century quilting stitches 2
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At 02:21 PM 1/23/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>and I'm embarrassed to say that the stitches got bigger as the hour of the 
>day got later.
>
>
>        CarolynKayta Barrows


Don't be embarrassed about that. My mom, who is a very accomplished 
Japanese embroiderer, has that same problem. We aren't computerized 
machines, we are humans who fluctuate throughout the day and night. The 
stitches I have seen in various vintage samples are not perfect by any 
stretch. It just gets better with more practice, but perfect, never.

my two pence,
Kimiko



Kimiko Small
Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

Costume Mistress for Isle of Mann Guild
Graphic Intern at Costume Gallery
http://www.costumegallery.com 

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Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 16:56:36 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Heidi Fox <mudsleidi@cox.net>
Subject: RE: Hemp, etc. in costuming (was [h-cost] Linen)
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Thank you, Kass!




>I can't quote statistics on the use of hemp version flax linen in Europe
>during the Middle Ages, but I bet someone on this list can enlighten us.
>=)
>
>Kass
>Reconstructing History Patterns
>http://reconstructinghistory.com
>Join Our Pattern Discussion List:
>http://reconstructinghistory.com/mailman/listinfo/patterns_reconstructin
>ghistory.com
>
>
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Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 15:01:59 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Lynne Connolly <lynneconnolly@ntlworld.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] REgency gown fastenings?
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On 00:22 22/01/2004 Danielle Nunn-Weinberg said
>The back waistline should be about where your bra-strap fits or slightly 
>higher.  I've seen some fashion plates that go up in a "v" at the back.  I 
>had a problem with the back being too low, that could have been because I 
>had to do so much fiddling but I'm not sure. Have a look.

Authentically - how did Empire Line/Regency gowns fasten? I've found the 
drawstring at neckline and below the bustline, and the bib front, but how 
did they fasten later, when the gowns became more structured?


Lynne Connolly, GSOLFOT
Breathtaking Historical Romance.
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/lynneconnolly/
The Richard and Rose books from 
<http://www.novelbooksinc.com/>Novelbooks<http://www.novelbooksinc.com/> Inc.
Coming soon; HARLEY STREET. VANESSA from <http://www.awe-struck.net/>Awe-Struck

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In a message dated 1/24/2004 4:32:24 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
lynneconnolly@ntlworld.com writes:
Authentically - how did Empire Line/Regency gowns fasten? I've found the 
drawstring at neckline and below the bustline, and the bib front, but how 
did they fasten later, when the gowns became more structured?
I've seen examples with hooks and eyes--just one at the neck and one at the 
waist--evidently, they didn't worry so much about "gaposis."  Some have 
buttons, but, in my experience, buttons are not nearly as common as they are among 
reenactors.

I'm sure Barry and Judy can provide some insight here, too.

Ann Wass
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Wow! This was like looking at the Kyoto Museum book.  What a collection!
Thank you.
I too am a long time admirer of Your work and am following the progress of
the present project.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, January 23, 2004 3:08 PM
Subject: [h-cost] eyecandy, two late, two expensive


Hi,
A friend sended me this link, and i thoaght you would like to see. Sigh i
wish i was a millionaire
http://www.coutaubegarie.com/php/catalogue/diaporama_vente.php?id_vente=236


Bjarne


Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] men's "scholars" gowns
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 13:19:29 -0500
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One that jumps to mind is "Thomas Moore'
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2004 6:08 PM
Subject: [h-cost] men's "scholars" gowns


> Greetings all,
> 
> Does anyone know where I can find clear, color images (portraits?) of 
> men in 16th century scholar's gowns?
> 
> I have Patterns of Fashion with the tiny little drawings from the 
> tailors books and the accompanying pattern layouts. I'd like to find 
> something my middle aged eyes can see. Particularly I am trying to 
> figure out where the sleeve seam goes for the big puffy variation, and 
> how they close in the front.
> 
> I was also wondering if these ever appear in any color other than black, 
> and if they were ever trimmed. The POF images are not in color so I 
> don't know how they might have appeared in real life.
> 
> 
> 
> Dawn
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <401057E5.5040104@reddawn.net> <E1Ak43L-0006Zf-00@eggnog>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] men's "scholars" gowns
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 14:17:18 -0500
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Kirrily, I have finally turned up my book on academic dress. The title is
"Academical Dress" By G.W. Shaw, published in 1966 by W. Heffer &Son
Limited, Cambridge. There are notes re history of the robes, drawings of the
various sleeves and details of the robes and hoods both for sight and
description.  The earliest one is U. of Cambridge, 13th Century.U of Oxford,
12th C.U of Aberdeen, 1494. There is a discussion re the kind of silk that
is permissible but the general description of the robes refer to 'black
stuff' which for the rite could be 'whatever is at hand' that is black.
These comments above are just a look-see.  It has been a while since I spent
more time with the volume (found when I was preparing "A Man for All
Seasons".)
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kirrily Robert" <skud@infotrope.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, January 23, 2004 11:21 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] men's "scholars" gowns


> Dawn wrote:
> > Does anyone know where I can find clear, color images (portraits?) of
> > men in 16th century scholar's gowns?
> >
> > I have Patterns of Fashion with the tiny little drawings from the
> > tailors books and the accompanying pattern layouts. I'd like to find
> > something my middle aged eyes can see. Particularly I am trying to
> > figure out where the sleeve seam goes for the big puffy variation, and
> > how they close in the front.
> >
> > I was also wondering if these ever appear in any color other than black,
> > and if they were ever trimmed. The POF images are not in color so I
> > don't know how they might have appeared in real life.
>
> The pictures from PoF are also available at
> http://costume.dm.net/Tailors/ so that will give you a bigger image than
> what you see in Arnold's pictures.
>
> I have tried the sleeves from the Milanese Tailors Handbook, the ones
> shaped like a P (see http://costume.dm.net/Tailors/pages/f87L.html), and
> actually if you just trust and do it you'll find that it works.
>
> The only one I know of in any colour other than black is the shag-lined
> robe in PoF.  It's not a scholar's robe really, just a long robe.  I
> think the black = scholar thing is pretty firm.  I've never seen them
> trimmed but that doesn't mean that they never were.  If I were doing it
> I'd go for black-on-black trim, perhaps just some subtle couched cord or
> something.
>
> K.
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>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] men's "scholars" gowns
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Lloyd Mitchell wrote:
> The earliest one is U. of Cambridge, 13th Century.U of Oxford,
> 12th C.U of Aberdeen, 1494.

Was this an extant garment?  Or pictorial/text information?

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary
safety deserve neither liberty nor safety. - B. Franklin, 1759
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] men's "scholars" gowns
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 22:13:51 -0500
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This book is meant to be a bible for academic garb. The textural material
deals with the evolution of the garments from the founding of the
institutions.
" Academical dress arose by a process of evolution and modification of
ordinary everyday wear.  The gown or robe was the topcoat or cloak of the
medieval scholar, and the hood was a headcover.  Academical dress has been
worn by graduates and students for hundreds of years...Each University on
receiving its charter adopts a set of robes of its own."
The illustrations are given by drawings of the basic robes and their
'parts', and then a series of drawings of hoods.
>From another source (Encyclopedia Brit? 11th edition, the point is made that
because of the originality of the various universities, one can recognize
(even paintings) which school was the academic home of some of these famous
men in history. There seems to be some indication that the museum dusty
corners of these venerable institutions do have some extant artifacts to
support this theory.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cynthia Virtue" <cvirtue+dated+1090523850.27b0eb@thibault.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 24, 2004 2:21 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] men's "scholars" gowns


> Lloyd Mitchell wrote:
> > The earliest one is U. of Cambridge, 13th Century.U of Oxford,
> > 12th C.U of Aberdeen, 1494.
>
> Was this an extant garment?  Or pictorial/text information?
>
> -- 
> Cynthia Virtue and/or
> Cynthia du Pré Argent
>
> They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary
> safety deserve neither liberty nor safety. - B. Franklin, 1759
> _______________________________________________
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>
>

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From: "Dawn Wood" <dawn@agesofelegance.co.uk>
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	<00c201c3e1b3$1846e200$656d4ed5@your1p37d9kihs>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] UK Brownie Guide Uniforms
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 14:10:21 -0000
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Mine was like that from late 60's/early 70's and of course the knitted
bobble hat. I'm sure my mum still has pics (in the way they take them of you
in uniform.
I also seem to remember some of her and her sister in the 50's certainly in
guides and maybe brownies so I will ask if  you like

Dawn
Ages Of Elegance makers of historical clothing, uniforms and bridalwear
http://www.agesofelegance.co.uk 0113 277 6716
> brown cotton dress with pochets yellow cross tie type ?
>
> Mel
>
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] UK Brownie Guide Uniforms
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 18:19:39 -0000
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>I can have a check through my mums photo albums and see if there are any of
her in her uniform,
she was born in 49 so it's  bit later but not by much.

Thanks :)

>That's the one!  If I look very hard I might even be able to find my brown
bobble hat to go with
it.

I think the knitted hat replaced the beret in the 70s

Mel


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] UK Brownie Guide Uniforms
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>I also seem to remember some of her and her sister in the 50's certainly in
guides and maybe brownies so I will ask if  you like



Yes please. Thanks

Mel

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jan 25 14:27:49 2004
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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] UK Brownie Guide Uniforms
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I'm just trying to work out dates... I was born in 68, so I must have 
started Brownies in '75?  My sister is three years older.  I should have 
had a bobble hat, but my sister had a beret which was handed down to me 
so I wore that, we were still allowed either - so the bobble hats must 
have come in just that year or the year before.

Berets were much better for frisbee-ing around the hall.

Jean


Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk> wrote
>>I can have a check through my mums photo albums and see if there are any of
>her in her uniform,
>she was born in 49 so it's  bit later but not by much.
>
>Thanks :)
>
>>That's the one!  If I look very hard I might even be able to find my brown
>bobble hat to go with
>it.
>
>I think the knitted hat replaced the beret in the 70s
>
>Mel
>
>
>This e-mail, and any attachment, is confidential. If you have received
>it in error, please delete it from your system, do not use or disclose
>the information in any way, and notify me immediately. The contents of
>this message may contain personal views which are not the views of the
>Company, unless specifically stated.
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 15th/16th cent. Transition Gown
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I'm catching up with old emails, so pardon me if this point was already 
addressed!
I just (today) saw a clear example of an earlier use of hooks to close a 
gown.  It's a painting by Albrecht Durer, dated to 1497.  My copy is the 
March 2002 picture of the Medieval Women calendar.  It's also available 
online, but the detail isn't as good.
Just below the sitter's bust line are two clearly visible hooks and eyes 
holding her (outer) gown closed to that point.  From her bust and up to 
the neckline, the gown front is actually open in a modest vee, although 
the two front "corners" of the neckline are tied together with some sort 
of cord (almost looks like the cord is wrapped around two exterior buttons).
--sue

Robin Netherton wrote:

> (I would love evidence of hooks in this period, but I don't know of any
> documention for them before the mid-16th century or so. I'm quite willing
> to be enlightened. I'm creeping out of my period here.)


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 15th/16th cent. Transition Gown
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I think I've seen other examples of the sleeve style in the first 
picture, but I can't recall if they're largely allegorical/fictional or 
actual people.  I do think they're largely flemish? or am I way off base?
--sue

Hope Greenberg wrote:

> Here's another related question:
> 
> This variation shows up in several places:
> http://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/sca/15th/ainsworthgdp123.jpg
> http://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/sca/15th/ainsworthgdp75.jpg
> 
> These are by Gerard David. I haven't collected very many images of this 
> style. Has anyone noticed if they are associated with "saints-wear" or 
> gowns that would not be worn by real people?
> Any ideas about that sleeve?
> 
> - Hope
> 
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From: Michelle Plumb <mplumb@wideopenwest.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Lindisfarne monk garb in late 8th century
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Hello, all.

Does anyone know what sort of garb a Lindisfarne monk would have worn at the 
time of the Viking attack (793 A.D)?

I'm mostly interested in the color of their robes, but any and all info would 
be welcome!

Thanks,
Michelle
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 15th/16th cent. Transition Gown
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Do you have any more information on it--title of painting, etc?

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>


> I just (today) saw a clear example of an earlier use of hooks to close a 
> gown.  It's a painting by Albrecht Durer, dated to 1497.  My copy is the 
> March 2002 picture of the Medieval Women calendar.  It's also available 
> online, but the detail isn't as good.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 15th/16th cent. Transition Gown
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Oh, yeah! Sorry!
According to the info provided by the calendar folks, it's:
"Woman with Braided Hair" (detail.  Albrech Durer.  Oil on panel, 
German, 1497. Museum der bildenden Kunste, Leipzig.  PhoteO 
artothek/Christoph Sandig.
--sue

E House wrote:

> Do you have any more information on it--title of painting, etc?
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
> 
> 
>>I just (today) saw a clear example of an earlier use of hooks to close a 
>>gown.  It's a painting by Albrecht Durer, dated to 1497.  My copy is the 
>>March 2002 picture of the Medieval Women calendar.  It's also available 
>>online, but the detail isn't as good.
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] gentlemans embroidered waistcoat 1766
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Oh, my! Your embroidery is just amazing.  The light in the pictures is 
just fine, at least on my monitor.  The background fabric looks white, 
though...are you doing your waistcoat in white and the rest of the 
outfit in the blue? How much longer will it take you to finish the whole 
thing? How much silk floss did you have to purchase to be able to do 
your whole outfit?
--sue, enviously (and it's dark here in Montana in the winter, too, 
except today because it's snowing ;o)

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Hi,
> Finally i can present to you the left finished side of the embroidered waistcoat after Gustav III's wedding suit.
> It is embroidered with pipers silk floss and embellished with silver spangels, the smallest you can get.
> There also are the 2 pocket flaps.
> It has taken me months to make it.
> You can notice in the big pictures, that i didnt embroider the places where the button holes are to be.
> When this is completely finished ( the left pocket flap is not finished) i shall start to make the left jacket piece. This is the one wich is going to be embroidered with silk chenille.
> I beg you to forgive the bad light in the pictures, but winter in Denmark is very dark.
> The waistcoat is made of silk duchesse satin.
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/chenillesuit.htm
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
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Interesting that it worked for you...it didn't for me when I tried it a 
few years ago.  I ended up with a lot of fabric in my armpit, and not on 
the outside where it belonged! <g> Of course, I was trying it with some 
fairly soft material (muslin scrap I happened to have handy), so that 
may have made a difference, but I was bummed!
--sue

Kirrily Robert wrote:
> The pictures from PoF are also available at
> http://costume.dm.net/Tailors/ so that will give you a bigger image than
> what you see in Arnold's pictures.
> 
> I have tried the sleeves from the Milanese Tailors Handbook, the ones
> shaped like a P (see http://costume.dm.net/Tailors/pages/f87L.html), and
> actually if you just trust and do it you'll find that it works.

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Subject: [h-cost] Site of Interest to Researchers of Italian Renn
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Sorry about cross-posting, but some may not know of the Medici Archive site
which has excerpts from their collected letters and notes about costume and
textiles.  I'm not sure what is happening with the project of cataloguing
and translating the enormous mass of material contained in the archives
(imagine if your family hadn't thrown away so much as a laundry list for 500
years and you get the picture of the size of the work).

At any rate:
http://www.medici.org/hum/topics/topicreports/CostumeandDress_1.html  may be
of interest to people on this list.

Regina Romsey
"The work of our Laurels will astonish people a century from now; the
deeds of our knights will be forgotten in five years; and nobody knows
what the Pelicans have done." Sir Alan Culross



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 15th/16th cent. Transition Gown
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I don't know whether anyone answered this because I was without e-mail for the past 2 weeks, but just a couple days ago, I came across a donor portrait in a book I have.  Fortunately, the Met has it on line: 
http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/view1.asp?dep=11&item=49%2E7%2E20a%96c 

I'd seen this style on saints and in tapestries, but this is the first time in a portrait.

Janet


  I think I've seen other examples of the sleeve style in the first 
  picture, but I can't recall if they're largely allegorical/fictional or 
  actual people.  I do think they're largely Flemish? or am I way off base?
  --sue

  Hope Greenberg wrote:

  > Here's another related question:
  > 
  > This variation shows up in several places:
  > http://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/sca/15th/ainsworthgdp123.jpg
  > http://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/sca/15th/ainsworthgdp75.jpg
  > 
  > These are by Gerard David. I haven't collected very many images of this 
  > style. Has anyone noticed if they are associated with "saints-wear" or 
  > gowns that would not be worn by real people?
  > Any ideas about that sleeve?
  > 
  > - Hope
  > 
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: Hemp, etc. in costuming (was [h-cost] Linen)
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 22:03:56 -0500
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On Friday 23 January 2004 01:46 pm, E House wrote:
[snip]

> Here's a quick, not too coherent summary of my even less coherent notes;
> below that are a few practical notes for hemp experiments:

Many thanks for passing on the information you have gathered!  In my opinion, 
you have found an impressive quantity of material.  


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Anything's within walking distance if you have the time." -Steven Wright
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Subject: Re: Hemp, etc. in costuming (was [h-cost] Linen)
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On Thursday 22 January 2004 06:46 pm, mudsleidi@cox.net wrote:
> >Dharmatrading also have very interesting stuff in silk and hemp.
>
> Speaking of hemp, does anyone use hemp fabric for any areas of costuming?
>
> What is the history of hemp as fabric?  And ramie, and/or nettles for that
> matter?

I believe hemp was used by peasants in Japan, but I don't know of any other 
references to hemp in costuming until fairly recent modern times.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Anything's within walking distance if you have the time." -Steven Wright
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From: "Joanna Hobbins" <jhobbi2@po-box.mcgill.ca>
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Status: RO

 Hello all,

I stumbled across this website and my jaw just dropped. Hundreds if not
thousands of books and articles on every possible subject relating to
textiles.  Primarily 19th and early 20th century sources, but there are some
older works as well.

<http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/weavedocs.html>

 try not to drool to much...

Joanna


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Subject: [h-cost] ? - "What Clothes Reveal" -book vs. exhibit 
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Hello:

I'm cutting it pretty close, but I was wondering if anyone who has been to 
it knows
if there is anything in the Colonial Williamsburg exhibit "What Clothes 
Reveal" which
isn't in the book?

We've been hemming and hawing about seeing it and it closes in the middle
of February. It's always worth while seeing the actual garments, but it's a 
long
drive from Canada, we have a talent for picking terrible weather to travel 
in, and I'm still
broke from Christmas.    If there are garments that aren't in the book that
might help me make up my mind.

Or not.  Dither, dither.

Sheridan Alder



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Hello all

I am posting this on two lists so sorry if you get cross posts.

Anyway an old friend has asked me to make her a new Faire dress.  The
problem is that she has both upper and lower back problems, and some issues
with the use of her hands.  Because of the upper back problems she can not
wear a corset.  This is not a major problem seeing she is of slight figure
and small in the chest.  Also her lower back problems make wearing a heavy
skirt very painful.  And of course she is a member of court.

My plan is this.  Using Margo's pattern (OF COURSE) I am going to build a
fitted, lightly boned bodice with wide cut shoulders a gored petticoat
attached to the bodice, and then attached an over skirt also gored in black
suit weight wool over the petticoat also attached to the bodice.  The bodice
will open up the front using large hooks and eyes.  This will go over her
shift.  There will be a small Bumroll between the petticoat and the over
skirt to give it some shape seeing she can't wear hoops.  Over that will be
a closed front doublet made of black cotton velveteen, trimmed in silver and
black gimp.

The plan is to shift the weight for the hips and lower back to the shoulders
and to keep things for shifting too much when she moves.  It's not perfectly
period, but I think it will pass with no problems.

What do you all think?

Stephen Bergdahl

"This ring, no other, is made by the elves,
Who'd pawn their own mother to grab it themselves.
Ruler of creeper, mortal, and scallop,
This is a sleeper that packs quite a wallop.
The Power almighty rests in this Lone Ring.
The Power, alrightly, for doing your Own Thing.
If broken or busted it cannot be remade
If found, send to Sorhed (the postage is prepaid)."

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dress Ideas
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Stephen,

I have bad upper and lower back problems.  The only way I can wear a
large/heavy dress or trained dress is to wear stays built in the bodice or
wear a girdle that has long stays in it.  Sears has a nice selection of
these long-line girdles.  Although my first choice is built-in stays.  The
girdle gets to my back after a couple of hours and wears on the hips.

As for the weight of the skirt, I prefer hoops.  Layers of  petticoats
weighs too much for me and I have a fear of tripping on them.  They like to
wrap around my legs.  The hoops will shift the weight outward and take the
weight off the hips.  She will be able to walk freely and more graceful.

The whole thing is that you need to balance the weight so that it is not
focus on one part of the back.  If you put the weight on the shoulders it
will hurt her upper back, then go down the backbone.

You might find an article that was published about how the costumes were
designed from Elizabeth (recent version).  It was discussed on the list, so
check the archives.  They made their costumes expressly to be lightweight
for the actors.  If I recall correctly, the director or fashion designer
said that they didn't want their actors to suffer with the heavy weight of
Elizabethan costumes.  I remember a description in one article that the
costumes appeared to float, they were so light.  I believe FIDM has the
costumes from Elizabeth.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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From: "Carolann Schmitt" <cschmitt@genteelarts.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] ? - "What Clothes Reveal" -book vs. exhibit 
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The book is terrific and has tons of valuable information, but it doesn't
*begin* to show all of the garments in the exhibit.  I don't have exact
figures, but I would estimate that the photos in the book show less than 20%
of the items on display.

I understand your concerns (long trip, weather, finances), but I heartily
recommend you see it if at all possible.  This isn't even my particular area
of interest, and I've made four trips (only 4-4.5 hrs one way for me)to see
it and would like to go one more time before it closes.

Carolann Schmitt
cschmitt@genteelarts.com
www.genteelarts.com
Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 5-7, 2004



I'm cutting it pretty close, but I was wondering if anyone who has been to 
it knows if there is anything in the Colonial Williamsburg exhibit "What
Clothes Reveal" which isn't in the book?

We've been hemming and hawing about seeing it and it closes in the middle
of February. It's always worth while seeing the actual garments, but it's a 
long drive from Canada, we have a talent for picking terrible weather to
travel in, and I'm still broke from Christmas.    If there are garments that
aren't in the book that might help me make up my mind.

Or not.  Dither, dither.

Sheridan Alder







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Status: RO

Would it help her if, say, you used some sort of suspenders to help keep 
the weight of her skirts more on her shoulders?
--sue

Stephen Bergdahl wrote:

> Hello all
> 
> I am posting this on two lists so sorry if you get cross posts.
> 
> Anyway an old friend has asked me to make her a new Faire dress.  The
> problem is that she has both upper and lower back problems, and some issues
> with the use of her hands.  Because of the upper back problems she can not
> wear a corset.  This is not a major problem seeing she is of slight figure
> and small in the chest.  Also her lower back problems make wearing a heavy
> skirt very painful.  And of course she is a member of court.
> 
> My plan is this.  Using Margo's pattern (OF COURSE) I am going to build a
> fitted, lightly boned bodice with wide cut shoulders a gored petticoat
> attached to the bodice, and then attached an over skirt also gored in black
> suit weight wool over the petticoat also attached to the bodice.  The bodice
> will open up the front using large hooks and eyes.  This will go over her
> shift.  There will be a small Bumroll between the petticoat and the over
> skirt to give it some shape seeing she can't wear hoops.  Over that will be
> a closed front doublet made of black cotton velveteen, trimmed in silver and
> black gimp.
> 
> The plan is to shift the weight for the hips and lower back to the shoulders
> and to keep things for shifting too much when she moves.  It's not perfectly
> period, but I think it will pass with no problems.
> 
> What do you all think?
> 
> Stephen Bergdahl
> 
> "This ring, no other, is made by the elves,
> Who'd pawn their own mother to grab it themselves.
> Ruler of creeper, mortal, and scallop,
> This is a sleeper that packs quite a wallop.
> The Power almighty rests in this Lone Ring.
> The Power, alrightly, for doing your Own Thing.
> If broken or busted it cannot be remade
> If found, send to Sorhed (the postage is prepaid)."
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] UK Brownie Guide Uniforms
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> Mine was like that from late 60's/early 70's and of course the knitted
> bobble hat. I'm sure my mum still has pics (in the way they take them
> of you in uniform. I also seem to remember some of her and her sister
> in the 50's certainly in guides and maybe brownies so I will ask if 
> you like

OK. What's a "bobble hat". 

I was a US brownie, albeit in 1961-3, but we had an 8 piece "beanie" 
hat (with a button, not a propeller on the top. My older sister had 
been a girl scout 10 years before that, but she was never a brownie. 
(I don't think the US had that level then, just like we didn't have 
the  "Daisy" groups, which are the kindergarten/first graders, which 
I think started in the 70s or 80s.)

You might want to look up a biography on Juliette Low. I remember 
that she had several photographs of the early Girl Guide groups in 
the book I used to have (but which seems to have gotten lost sometime 
in the last 30-40 years.) It might have some of the Brownies as well.

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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>OK. What's a "bobble hat".

It is a knitted hat with a pom pom in the top. I think generally knitted in
the round, as I remember Brownie ones were rib knit. Also known as Benny
hats in the Midlands for quite a while after a crossroads actor who worn a
blue (?) one

>I was a US brownie, albeit in 1961-3,

US Brownies & Girl Scouts seem to have far better sites on theoir history
tha we do, well done you lot !

I was in the US in 1976 as a Guide for the 1776 celebrations, the motto was
" If I were a Girl Scout in 1776" with a uniform of the period designed. It
was a lot of fun do any of you remember it ?

Our youngest group is Rainbows not around when I was in Guiding

Mel



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What gorgeous things! I love the lady's red jacket, and I know people
who would love those bagpipes.


>>> drewscph@post12.tele.dk 23/01/04 20:08:43 >>>
Hi,
A friend sended me this link, and i thoaght you would like to see. Sigh
i wish i was a millionaire
http://www.coutaubegarie.com/php/catalogue/diaporama_vente.php?id_vente=236





Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] UK Brownie Guide Uniforms
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>>> MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk 25/01/04 18:19:39 >>> wrote:

>I think the knitted hat replaced the beret in the 70s

But the beret must have replaced the knitted hats (without bobble)
which we wore in the 50s. (I wore a beret as a Guide in the early 60s.)




Kate Bunting
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] UK Brownie Guide Uniforms
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>But the beret must have replaced the knitted hats (without bobble)
which we wore in the 50s. (I wore a beret as a Guide in the early 60s.)

that's odd the Brownie info I have dosen't mention that, the beret for
Brownies came in in the 50s according to several sources, maybe the knitted
hat sans bobble was the earlier one ?

Mel

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	<200401252145.51306.cathy@thyrsus.com>
Subject: Re: Hemp, etc. in costuming (was [h-cost] Linen)
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And what is the original fiber of barkcloth?  Another plant fiber is
'pineapple silk.  I have three garments of this one from the Philippines,
the oldest one from the late 19th C.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Catherine Olanich Raymond" <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 9:45 PM
Subject: Re: Hemp, etc. in costuming (was [h-cost] Linen)


> On Thursday 22 January 2004 06:46 pm, mudsleidi@cox.net wrote:
> > >Dharmatrading also have very interesting stuff in silk and hemp.
> >
> > Speaking of hemp, does anyone use hemp fabric for any areas of
costuming?
> >
> > What is the history of hemp as fabric?  And ramie, and/or nettles for
that
> > matter?
>
> I believe hemp was used by peasants in Japan, but I don't know of any
other
> references to hemp in costuming until fairly recent modern times.
>
> -- 
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>
> "Anything's within walking distance if you have the time." -Steven Wright
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] UK Brownie Guide Uniforms
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I was born in 63 so it would have been 1970 when I joined but I had a bobble
hat rather than a beret although remember some of the older girls or ones
with big sisters had the beret which were much chicer

Dawn
Ages Of Elegance makers of historical clothing, uniforms and bridalwear
http://www.agesofelegance.co.uk 0113 277 6716
----- Original Message ----- 


> I'm just trying to work out dates... I was born in 68, so I must have
> started Brownies in '75?  My sister is three years older.  I should have
> had a bobble hat, but my sister had a beret which was handed down to me
> so I wore that, we were still allowed either - so the bobble hats must
> have come in just that year or the year before.
>
> Berets were much better for frisbee-ing around the hall.


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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Catalina=20Saravia=20Quicedo?= <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lindisfarne monk garb in late 8th century
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http://www.beloit.edu/~classics/museum/WebSite/Information_LindisfarneGospelsPortraits.htm

There are several books which reproduce pages from the
lindifarne gospels where you can see the garments.



 --- Michelle Plumb <mplumb@wideopenwest.com> wrote: >
Hello, all.
> 
> Does anyone know what sort of garb a Lindisfarne
> monk would have worn at the 
> time of the Viking attack (793 A.D)?
> 
> I'm mostly interested in the color of their robes,
> but any and all info would 
> be welcome!
> 
> Thanks,
> Michelle
> _______________________________________________
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=====
Seńora Catalina
Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit

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David Webb wrote:

> I'm cutting it pretty close, but I was wondering if anyone who has been to
> it knows if there is anything in the Colonial Williamsburg exhibit "What
> Clothes Reveal" which isn't in the book?

I can second the recommendation to see the "What Clothes Reveal" exhibit if
you can at all make to the Williamsburg.  I am even closer 2.5-3 hour drive
and have seen it three times.  Each time I have found something different
that I did not notice the last time.  

I especially like the last exhibits in which Antibellium ladies "reused"
18th century dress.

Your humble and obediant servant,
David S Mallinak
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Catalina=20Saravia=20Quicedo?= <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lindisfarne monk garb in late 8th century
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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http://clawww.lmu.edu/faculty/fjust/4Gosp-Lindisfarne.htm

This shows the miniatures of the four evangelists. The
colors the monks wore were most likely wools died with
natural dyes. 



 --- Michelle Plumb <mplumb@wideopenwest.com> wrote: >
Hello, all.
> 
> Does anyone know what sort of garb a Lindisfarne
> monk would have worn at the 
> time of the Viking attack (793 A.D)?
> 
> I'm mostly interested in the color of their robes,
> but any and all info would 
> be welcome!
> 
> Thanks,
> Michelle
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

=====
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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20040126161622.7628.qmail@web14010.mail.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lindisfarne monk garb in late 8th century
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 11:43:58 -0500
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Since these are pictures of 'saints' and not necessarily monks of the 8th
century, how can we know what holy men of the period were wearing at all?
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Catalina Saravia Quicedo" <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 26, 2004 11:16 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lindisfarne monk garb in late 8th century


> http://clawww.lmu.edu/faculty/fjust/4Gosp-Lindisfarne.htm
>
> This shows the miniatures of the four evangelists. The
> colors the monks wore were most likely wools died with
> natural dyes.
>
>
>
>  --- Michelle Plumb <mplumb@wideopenwest.com> wrote: >
> Hello, all.
> >
> > Does anyone know what sort of garb a Lindisfarne
> > monk would have worn at the
> > time of the Viking attack (793 A.D)?
> >
> > I'm mostly interested in the color of their robes,
> > but any and all info would
> > be welcome!
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Michelle
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> =====
> Seńora Catalina
> Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Yahoo! Messenger - Communicate instantly..."Ping"
> your friends today! Download Messenger Now
> http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com/download/index.html
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>

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Catalina=20Saravia=20Quicedo?= <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lindisfarne monk garb in late 8th century
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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One of the University links goes into great detail on
how these particular miniatures are different from
'fantastical' clothing typical in other insular
manuscripts. The depiction here is supposed to be
typical of normal clothing. Most researchers of
manuscripts have also stated that many depictions of
saints show them wearing typical clothing, but
represent it in rich colors or gold that would not be
normal wear for the monks. This is not my area of
expertise so you can discount it if you wish.


 --- Lloyd Mitchell <rmitchell@washjeff.edu> wrote: >
Since these are pictures of 'saints' and not
> necessarily monks of the 8th
> century, how can we know what holy men of the period
> were wearing at all?
> Kathleen
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Catalina Saravia Quicedo"
> <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Monday, January 26, 2004 11:16 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lindisfarne monk garb in late
> 8th century
> 
> 
> >
>
http://clawww.lmu.edu/faculty/fjust/4Gosp-Lindisfarne.htm
> >
> > This shows the miniatures of the four evangelists.
> The
> > colors the monks wore were most likely wools died
> with
> > natural dyes.
> >
> >
> >
> >  --- Michelle Plumb <mplumb@wideopenwest.com>
> wrote: >
> > Hello, all.
> > >
> > > Does anyone know what sort of garb a Lindisfarne
> > > monk would have worn at the
> > > time of the Viking attack (793 A.D)?
> > >
> > > I'm mostly interested in the color of their
> robes,
> > > but any and all info would
> > > be welcome!
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Michelle
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> > =====
> > Seńora Catalina
> > Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________
> > Yahoo! Messenger - Communicate instantly..."Ping"
> > your friends today! Download Messenger Now
> > http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com/download/index.html
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> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 15th/16th cent. Transition Gown
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>

> According to the info provided by the calendar folks, it's:
> "Woman with Braided Hair" (detail.  Albrech Durer.  Oil on panel,
> German, 1497. Museum der bildenden Kunste, Leipzig.  PhoteO
> artothek/Christoph Sandig.
> --sue

Ahh!
This, maybe? Different information, but the only thing from 1497 (or -6,
or -8) that seems about right, and I think I see where the hooks would be,
in better resolution:
http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/html/d/durer/1/02/03hair_d.html
Speaking of which, I know it's been discussed on this type of gown before a
zillion times, but has anyone come to any conclusions about those 4 vertical
rows of something on either side of the front opening?

Interesting new painting, on the sleeves, although... yet another Gerard
David painting, so perhaps it was a bit of a thing with him. However, if you
want to see weird sleeves at about this time? Look to the Dutch. Weird
sleeves all over the place, very few alike, and they also wore this same
general style of fitted square necked gowns. I haven't done any particular
searches for this type of sleeve, but I can think of several similar types,
so it wouldn't be outlandish to find more of these there.

You might also want to check the bildindex, which is great for more obscure
stuff:
http://www.bildindex.de
('Künstler' to search by artist, 'Themen' by topic, 'Porträts' for a certain
portion of portraits. Be sure to click 'vergrößern' to enlarge the images;
some can theoretically be enlarged up to a 6 meg tiff, but I haven't
encountered any yet)

I'm pretty sure this is where I saw that other hook-and-eye image, darn
it--probably by Dürer, and a sketch/engraving since I'm remembering
greys--but I have no time to search for it now.

-E

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ? - "What Clothes Reveal" -book vs. exhibit
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In a message dated 1/26/04 11:16:03 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
matchlck@erols.com writes:

> I was wondering if anyone who has been to
> >it knows if there is anything in the Colonial Williamsburg exhibit "What
> >Clothes Reveal" which isn't in the book?
> 

I only live about 45 minutes from Williamsburg, saw the exhibit when it first 
opened, THEN bought the book, and now have been back five more 
times......Every time I go, I see different details or learn something new that I missed on 
a previous visit.

More than anything, as good as the book is, I don't think there is anything 
that can compare to standing next to a dress for example and being able to see 
it from all angles, seeing how the fabrics reflect the light (the ones with 
silver threads were incredible!), or get a sense of the scale.

Good luck--I hope you're able to make it!

Perry
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: lindisfarne gospels
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> 
> http://www.beloit.edu/~classics/museum/WebSite/Information_LindisfarneGospelsP
> ortraits.htm
> 
> There are several books which reproduce pages from the
> lindifarne gospels where you can see the garments.
> 

But these are not pictures of monks, they're pictures of Matthew, Mark, Luke
and John. The clothes are several different colors, and look rather
Byzantine to me.


> This shows the miniatures of the four evangelists. The
> colors the monks wore were most likely wools died with
> natural dyes. 
> 

But as we've talked about here before, that doesn't mean that the colors in
the manuscript are the same as the colors of the clothes.

> 
> One of the University links goes into great detail on
> how these particular miniatures are different from
> 'fantastical' clothing typical in other insular
> manuscripts. The depiction here is supposed to be
> typical of normal clothing.

Normal cuts and folds, not simply fanciful patterns (such as in the Book of
Kells), but it doesn't say that they are the normal clothing of Lindisfarne
monks.

I'm not trying to be argumentative, but I don't think there's any evidence
either way that these clothes are what the monks wore. Sorry I don't know
more.

Gail Finke





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> >OK. What's a "bobble hat".
> 
> It is a knitted hat with a pom pom in the top. I think generally
> knitted in the round, as I remember Brownie ones were rib knit. Also
> known as Benny hats in the Midlands for quite a while after a
> crossroads actor who worn a blue (?) one

They sounds like our "ski hats" or what some Canadians call a "tuke".
 
> I was in the US in 1976 as a Guide for the 1776 celebrations, the
> motto was " If I were a Girl Scout in 1776" with a uniform of the
> period designed. It was a lot of fun do any of you remember it ?

I was too busy with medical school in 1976 to notice much of anything 
to do with the Centennial.

However, one year at Girl Scout camp (in the late 60's) we had a 
group of "Girl Scouts" from other countries as part of some exchange 
program. They all were in one unit and we didn't really get to see 
much of them except at meal time and flag time. 

> Our youngest group is Rainbows not around when I was in Guiding

I suspect that here they would want to avoid calling them "Rainbows" 
because that's the name of a completely separate group here: Rainbow 
Girls. It's an offshoot of the Masons (but it doesn't have quite the 
same sponsorship rules that Jobs Daughters have.)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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From: "Cindy Abel" <brujne@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] UK Brownie Guide Uniforms
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 09:15:20 -0600
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If you are looking for WWII and earlier UK Brownie, Rosebud and Scouting
uniform pics, I seem to remember that Elizabeth II and Margaret Rose had
their own "troops"(as they call them on this side of the pond)and any biog
of either or both that covers their childhoods extensively might have
pictures of them in uniform, Margaret Rose was shown in a Brownie Guide
uniform, in one pic I recall seeing from my own U.S. Brownie and Junior
Scouting days.

Also, if you find Guide books from the era, there might be pics of the
uniforms, both past and (that) present.

Cindy Abel

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Kate M Bunting
Sent: Friday, January 23, 2004 7:36 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] UK Brownie Guide Uniforms


I was a Brownie in the late 1950s, but don't have any photos. I can only
remember that I wore a brown dress with "military" pockets and a brown
knitted cap.

>>> MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk 23/01/04 13:16:20 >>>
I have mine from 35 years ago how old does that make me !

I'm looking for WW2 and the very early Rosebuds ones in preferance but
my
daughter is doing the history of them so any would do, I have NO photos
of
me in it however, but I'll probably dress her up and take some, it is
the
brown cotton dress with pochets yellow cross tie type ?

Mel


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My big find at an antique mall this past weekend was a scant bolt of cherry red silk velvet, 36" wide by 5 yards. Any suggestions besides a sleeveless coat c1806, or perhaps something ala Poiret or perhaps Erte for graceful use?
Kathleen
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Hi Everyone,

I've been kind of out of it lately (I'm about to have a baby any day now, 
and am trying to get everything in order).  So you may have discussed this 
already.  Sorry, if so.

I saw the movie Cold Mountain last night.  Honestly, I was very disapointed 
in the story line, but was enamoured by the costumes.  This is not my period 
at all and was wondering what you civil war era buffs thought of the 
dresses?

I noticed that alot of Nicole Kidman's dresses were in two parts, a skirt 
and a seperate bodice.  Was this a common occurance?  That seems more 
practical then having a single dress, but I wasn't really aware of this 
style for this period.

Thanks.
:) jessica

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Jessica,

Congrads on the new coming baby.  I haven't seen the film yet... I have
tried three times, but the last show is at 7PM.  Too early for me.  We like
the late show so all the teenagers are not in the theater.

I know the parasols are period correct.  Our instructor Marna Jean made them
for the film.  She is teaching a class on them and it started today.  I read
her first lesson last night and saw all of her documentation.  It looks
pretty solid.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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In a message dated 1/26/2004 2:53:37 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
rmitchell@washjeff.edu writes:

> or perhaps something ala Poiret or perhaps Erte for graceful use?
> 

Make a dolman sleeved jacket and print an Art Neuvo design in metallic around 
the hem and sleeves and you can wear it with your Fortuni Delphos gown.

:-P
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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lindisfarne monk garb in late 8th century
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 --- Michelle Plumb <mplumb@wideopenwest.com>wrote: >
> >
> Does anyone know what sort of garb a Lindisfarne
> monk would have worn at the
> time of the Viking attack (793 A.D)?
>
> I'm mostly interested in the color of their
> robes,
> but any and all info would
> be welcome!

Catalina Saravia Quicedo wrote:
>http://clawww.lmu.edu/faculty/fjust/4Gosp-Lindisfarne.htm
>
> This shows the miniatures of the four evangelists. The
> colors the monks wore were most likely wools dyed with
> natural dyes.

(This painting of St. John in the Lindisfarne Gospels is one of my favorite illuminations. I imagine the caption for it as St. John saying, "But wait! I haven't finished it yet!" as the eagle in the background flies away with the book....<g>)

There are illuminations, which I _think_ are more or less contemporary, of the life of St. Cuthbert that show his monks doing various things (rowing boats, carrying the saint's body, etc.). They are all wearing dark gray to dark brown full-length tunics, and, I believe, leather belts (don't have the pictures in front of me). (BTW, one of the commonest mistakes people make doing historical monastic clothing is to assume that rope belts are universal -- they aren't, they're actually not very common until the 1200s when St. Francis of Assisi chose them for the Friars Minor.)

A simple tunic is more or less what I would expect to see on monks at this period, and they probably wear a linen under-tunic as well, which doesn't show. 

Until relatively late in the Middle Ages, monks' and friars' tunics seem to have been mostly made of _undyed_ wool -- the darkish brown to blackish wool from "black" sheep for the dark ones, unbleached white for those who wore white habits (1200s and later, I think the Cistercians were the first to choose white). I think there's a reference in our archives not too long ago to the specification that monks' robes be "nigra bruna", meaning either color or any shade in between.


____________________________________________________________
0  Chris Laning
|  <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
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In a message dated 1/26/2004 3:11:44 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
jessicastier@hotmail.com writes:
I noticed that alot of Nicole Kidman's dresses were in two parts, a skirt 
and a seperate bodice.  Was this a common occurance?  That seems more 
practical then having a single dress, but I wasn't really aware of this 
style for this period.
I take you mean the fabrics were not the same?  I do know of examples with a 
skirt and 2 bodices--one day and one evening--but these are matching fabric 
and you probably would not be able to tell on screen.  I'll let someone more 
versed in the period than I weigh in as to the contrasting bodice and skirt look.
Ann Wass
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: M Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lindisfarne monk garb in late 8th century
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Monks in 8th century would be Franciscan?   If so,  you can read the Rule 
of the order.   Or the Rule for whichever order it is...  That will give 
you the information straight from the horses mouth,  so to speak.  No 
mucking about guessing what is going on in a picture...

Bridgette

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] cherry red velvet
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 16:48:54 -0500
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Another good idea, but I already have the trim....alas, not The gown, but I
bet I can find something.  Thank you.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 26, 2004 3:35 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] cherry red velvet


> In a message dated 1/26/2004 2:53:37 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> rmitchell@washjeff.edu writes:
>
> > or perhaps something ala Poiret or perhaps Erte for graceful use?
> >
>
> Make a dolman sleeved jacket and print an Art Neuvo design in metallic
around
> the hem and sleeves and you can wear it with your Fortuni Delphos gown.
>
> :-P
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>

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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cold Mountain Costumes
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 16:56:06 -0500
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I have both one and two-piece dresses of the period. And one of the two
piece items did come with both bodices, in fact, there were three bodices in
the set. This dress is royal blue silk taffeta with a border of about 5"
embroidered in black.  One of the evening bodices matches the skirt and the
other is in black with blue fringe edging the short sleeve. The day bodice
has pagoda sleeves that  are bordered in black.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AnnBWass@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 26, 2004 3:58 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cold Mountain Costumes


> In a message dated 1/26/2004 3:11:44 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> jessicastier@hotmail.com writes:
> I noticed that alot of Nicole Kidman's dresses were in two parts, a skirt
> and a seperate bodice.  Was this a common occurance?  That seems more
> practical then having a single dress, but I wasn't really aware of this
> style for this period.
> I take you mean the fabrics were not the same?  I do know of examples with
a
> skirt and 2 bodices--one day and one evening--but these are matching
fabric
> and you probably would not be able to tell on screen.  I'll let someone
more
> versed in the period than I weigh in as to the contrasting bodice and
skirt look.
> Ann Wass
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Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 17:31:59 EST
Subject: Re: [h-cost] cherry red velvet
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In a message dated 1/26/2004 4:45:49 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
rmitchell@washjeff.edu writes:

> Another good idea, but I already have the trim....alas, not The gown, but I
> bet I can find something.  Thank you.
> 

I was joking really. But those Fortuni pleated slinky things with the simply 
cut, stenciled velvet coats over them do look REAL good, don't they?

Cherry red is very popular in the 18th century but I don't know what you'd 
make. A Lady's jacket?.... like the yellow silk one Glen Close wears in 
Dangerous Liaisons [perhaps more wintery....like trimmed in fur]...with a brocade 
skirt.

Then there's always a very plain [let the beautiful fabric do the work] 
severe 1840s off the shoulder frock. 

How much yardage did you say you had?

Someone stop me....
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From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lindisfarne monk garb in late 8th century
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--- Michelle Plumb <mplumb@wideopenwest.com> wrote:

> 
> Does anyone know what sort of garb a Lindisfarne
> monk would have worn at the 
> time of the Viking attack (793 A.D)?
> 
> I'm mostly interested in the color of their robes,
> but any and all info would be welcome!
> Michelle

What Benedict said in the Sancta Regula about colors
of clothes was that the monks shouldn't complain about
them.  That's about it.
Old & new, heavier and lighter weight clothing, has
some detail in the Rule of St. Benedict.

Benedictines (& most monks were Benedictine) are
mostly depicted in dark brown-black long sleeved long
tunics, with scapulars (narrow ponchos strips front &
back), & hoods.

Useless for the holy isle, unfortunately.

Ann in CT

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lindisfarne monk garb in late 8th century
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Benedictine, I'm guessing. St. Francis wasn't born until the 1200's. The
Rule of St Benedict is available at Catholic book stores.

Arlys

On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 16:04:26 -0500 M Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu> writes:
> 
> 
> Monks in 8th century would be Franciscan?   If so,  you can read the 
> Rule of the order.   Or the Rule for whichever order it is...  That
will 
> give you the information straight from the horses mouth,  so to speak. 

> No mucking about guessing what is going on in a picture...
> 
> Bridgette


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] UK Brownie Guide Uniforms
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 23:40:45 -0000
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>If you are looking for WWII and earlier UK Brownie, Rosebud and Scouting
uniform pics, I seem to remember that Elizabeth II 

So far the Royal guiding pics seem to be far fancier than normal

>and Margaret Rose 

Do you mean Princess Margaret ?

>Also, if you find Guide books from the era, there might be pics of the
uniforms, both past and (that) present.

Yes I'm trying that too, thanks :)

Mel

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Subject: [h-cost] square nebula or goffered  or reticulated headdress
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Hi: I am looking for information/opinions etc on the kind of headdress seen
in this picture:
http://www.costumes.org/history/quicherat/Dameensurcot.JPG
To me, it looks like the lady is wearing a net over vertical plaits
(hidden), some sort of veil, cap or band , and a goffered veil. The top of
her head looks very square, but I suspect that since the lady is a statue
from a chimney (sculptee sur une cheminee), she's probably got a mantlepiece
on her head...
I have however found some images of squared nebula headdresses - about
1390's. There are 2 in "Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince", one a
corbel, very stylised, the other from the Despencer-Montacute tomb. Newton
attibutes the squareness to the vertical plaits underneath. She also does
NOT think they were worn in France! Hmmm...this statue is French...
"Medieval Costume in England and France" has a drawing from the brass of Sir
R. de Malyns (one of his wives) also showing a squared  nebula veil, Fig.
147., using zig-zags for the ruffles.
I'm thinking of making a similar headdress, but I'd like to know 1)- is
Quicherat reliable?
2)- does my idea of what she's wearing make sense - goffered veil over
netted/reticulated vertical plaits.
Thanks for any help,
Rebecca

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] cherry red velvet
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Lloyd Mitchell wrote:
> My big find at an antique mall this past weekend was a scant bolt of cherry red silk velvet, 36" wide by 5 yards. Any suggestions besides a sleeveless coat c1806, or perhaps something ala Poiret or perhaps Erte for graceful use?
> Kathleen


I think what I would do is lay it out on the floor or the bed and roll 
around in it in hedonistic pleasure. :)



Dawn


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Hi,
I was relaxing looking in my books today, and i suddently stumbled because here there was a proof.
Jane Ashlefords Art of Dress page 182 i quote:
Detail of a dress c. 1810 made from an intensely vivid pink silk, almost the same shade as Schiaparellis "shocking pink".
Tha taaaaaaaaaaaa!!!!!
Well it is not proof of 18th century i know, but very close.
I really wonderede somebody said it didnt excist, because i have seen it in embroidery many times.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] square nebula or goffered  or reticulated headdress
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Hi Rebecca,

After you asked about this on the Milliner's list, I asked here for 
other square nebuly-ish pictures.

Annora had this additional information:

	If you have access to Visual History of Costume, 14th and 15th
centuries, there are three tomb effigies pictured that might fit the bill.
I wouldn't exactly describe them as nebuly but a couple of them are
honeycombed.  They're plates 25, 28, and 29.  25 is the only one that's
squared but the fluting on the veiling looks pretty much like the
Arnolfini veiling; not as stylized as the other two.  28 and 29 are
honeycombed (two different styles) but they're inverted U's rather than
being squared.  Dates range from 1360-1380.


-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pr? Argent

What's the point of holding a Dean sign and shouting ''DEAN! DEAN! 
DEAN!'' for three straight hours in the bitter cold when the only person 
who can see or hear you is holding a Kerry sign and shouting ''KERRY! 
KERRY! KERRY!''? Does anybody's mind get changed? After a while, do 
these people become convinced by each other and swap signs?  -- Dave Barry
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Subject: [h-cost] Benedictine monks...  was Lindisfarne... 
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You're right...  Benedictine Monks,  most likely.
 From the Catholic Encyclopedia  via... http://www.osb.org/gen/habit.html

The color of the habit is not specified in the 
<http://www.osb.org/rb/text/rbeaad1.html#55>Rule but it is conjectured that 
the earliest Benedictines wore white or grey, as being the natural colour 
of undyed wool. For many centuries, however, black has been the prevailing 
color, hence the term "Black Monk" has come to signify a Benedictine. Some 
independent or reform congregations have adopted a distinctive colour; 
e.g., the <http://www.camaldoli.it/>Camaldolese, 
<http://www.osb.org/cist/index.html>Cistercians, and 
<http://www.ftbcc.it/monteoliveto/>Olivetans wear white. The 
<http://www.silvestrini.org/>Sylvestrine's habit used to be blue.

Bridgette 

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I liked some aspects of the costumes (they got the shape right on the dome
hoopskirts, the lightweight cotton prints for summer) and not some others
(the fitted sleeves instead of full bishop/pagoda sleeves).

Just don't get me started on the hair...

- Kendra
http://demode.tweedlebop.com

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In a message dated 1/26/2004 7:05:28 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

> really wonderede somebody said it didnt excist, 

And I'm sure they were wearing it in India and China at the time too. You 
KNOW somebody in the Western Hemisphere was wearing it as well, even if it wasn't 
the most popular color.

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In a message dated 1/26/2004 9:04:24 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
kendra@tweedlebop.com writes:

> the lightweight cotton prints for summer

I read somewhere everything is either linen or wool....because these were the 
two fibers the self sufficient commutity produced. I know some fabrics were 
woven for the film and some of the prints were borrowed from contemporary and 
local sources [like wall paper] and printed on plain linen.

I can't remember where I read it.

Ann Roth is a great designer, though I don't think of her first for non 20th 
century periods.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] cherry red velvet
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 18:46:14 -0800
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I'd make a two-fabric 1880s day or evening dress out of it -- velvet and
satin were really popular combinations in that decade.  Usually they'd
combine two different fabrics (eg velvet and satin) of the same or similar
colors, or two colors of the same fabric (eg blue and yellow satin).

- Kendra
http://demode.tweedlebop.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] cherry red velvet
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Thank you!!!  I must try that.
Kathleen,(typing this in my purple satin pjs)
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 26, 2004 6:49 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] cherry red velvet


> Lloyd Mitchell wrote:
> > My big find at an antique mall this past weekend was a scant bolt of
cherry red silk velvet, 36" wide by 5 yards. Any suggestions besides a
sleeveless coat c1806, or perhaps something ala Poiret or perhaps Erte for
graceful use?
> > Kathleen
>
>
> I think what I would do is lay it out on the floor or the bed and roll
> around in it in hedonistic pleasure. :)
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
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Subject: [h-cost] magnifying glasses
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Hello,

Can anyone give recommendations for a magnifying glass for studying 
textiles?  This is for studying structure and measuring.  I would 
appreciate any advice on best types and practices.  :D

Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com
*** http://www.alfalfapress.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] cherry red velvet
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Since I have been working in the '80s on another project, that was kind of
my first thought when I saw the fabric in the shop.  On getting it home and
off the wretched cardboard roll, wrapped in newspaper, it was obvious that
the gown would have to be really fancy...it is that sort of fabric. And too,
the weight is all wrong for that period.  I have a couple of dresses of the
period and this velvet is much  too supple . The earliest that I have seen
this fabric made up is for gowns after , say,1906-8.
I do appreciate the suggestions. I want to make something important out of
it and something I will get to wear.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kendra Van Cleave" <kendra@tweedlebop.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 26, 2004 9:46 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] cherry red velvet


> I'd make a two-fabric 1880s day or evening dress out of it -- velvet and
> satin were really popular combinations in that decade.  Usually they'd
> combine two different fabrics (eg velvet and satin) of the same or similar
> colors, or two colors of the same fabric (eg blue and yellow satin).
>
> - Kendra
> http://demode.tweedlebop.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>

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Maybe a jewlers loupe? You can get one anywhere just about. 
=============================
On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
=============================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Althea Turner" <althea@alfalfapress.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: January 26, 2004 10:27 PM
Subject: [h-cost] magnifying glasses


> Hello,
> 
> Can anyone give recommendations for a magnifying glass for studying 
> textiles?  This is for studying structure and measuring.  I would 
> appreciate any advice on best types and practices.  :D
> 
> Althea Turner
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Hi,
I have a lovely antique jeweler's loupe.  I am looking for 
recommendations on linen tester magnifying glasses.  There are a number 
of brands and strengths, and I'd like to know what is recommended.  
Thank you!

Althea


On Monday, January 26, 2004, at 07:25 PM, Bice d'Este wrote:

> Maybe a jewlers loupe? You can get one anywhere just about.
> =============================
> On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
> =============================
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Althea Turner" <althea@alfalfapress.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: January 26, 2004 10:27 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] magnifying glasses
>
>
>> Hello,
>>
>> Can anyone give recommendations for a magnifying glass for studying
>> textiles?  This is for studying structure and measuring.  I would
>> appreciate any advice on best types and practices.  :D
>>
>> Althea Turner
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com
*** http://www.alfalfapress.com

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jan 27 01:29:13 2004
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	<401421D9.5040705@in-tch.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 15th/16th cent. Transition Gown
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The best picture of hook and eye closures is Jean Fouquet's portrait of the Court Jester Gonella, c. 1445.  The only web reproduction I can find is not very good
http://www.abcgallery.com/F/fouquet/fouquet14.html 
but it's a fairly famous picture and is reprinted in a number of books.  A better reproduction, besides not having that awful yellow cast, shows clearly 2 hooks on one side of the collar and 1 eye on the other side and they look very like modern hooks and eyes.

Janet
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> I have a lovely antique jeweler's loupe.  I am looking for 
> recommendations on linen tester magnifying glasses.  There are a
> number of brands and strengths, and I'd like to know what is
> recommended.  Thank you!

Mine isn't specifically a "linen tester" glass, but is one that was 
recommended for textile conservators. It is a 10X magnifyer. (It's 
very cute. It folds up into a very small "box" shape. However, it's 
so small that right now it's on the missing list. I have to remember 
the "safe place" I put it. Sigh.)

Unfortunately, I don't remember a brand name on it. You might want to 
ask Asha (at Pastiche) as she was the one who pointed it out as being 
what I needed.

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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From: Drea Leed <drea@nospam>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] magnifying glasses
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Althea,

I have the niftiest pocket magnifying glass/microscope that my husband got
me--$10 from radio shack, with 60x to 100 x magnification and its own
lighting. It's really something! When I got it I spent the afternoon glued
to various pieces of drapery and upholstery and clothing.

It may be a bit too close-up for your needs...but it was a fun gift,
nonetheless.

Drea


On Mon, 26 Jan 2004, Althea Turner wrote:

> Hello,
>
> Can anyone give recommendations for a magnifying glass for studying
> textiles?  This is for studying structure and measuring.  I would
> appreciate any advice on best types and practices.  :D
>
> Althea Turner
> *** althea@alfalfapress.com
> *** http://www.alfalfapress.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] cherry red velvet
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 08:12:16 -0500
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Only 5 yds, and fabric is only 36" wide. I would still question the weight
of the hand for this early period.A jacket could be interesting...
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, January 26, 2004 5:31 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] cherry red velvet


> In a message dated 1/26/2004 4:45:49 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> rmitchell@washjeff.edu writes:
>
> > Another good idea, but I already have the trim....alas, not The gown,
but I
> > bet I can find something.  Thank you.
> >
>
> I was joking really. But those Fortuni pleated slinky things with the
simply
> cut, stenciled velvet coats over them do look REAL good, don't they?
>
> Cherry red is very popular in the 18th century but I don't know what you'd
> make. A Lady's jacket?.... like the yellow silk one Glen Close wears in
> Dangerous Liaisons [perhaps more wintery....like trimmed in fur]...with a
brocade
> skirt.
>
> Then there's always a very plain [let the beautiful fabric do the work]
> severe 1840s off the shoulder frock.
>
> How much yardage did you say you had?
>
> Someone stop me....
> _______________________________________________
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>

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From: "Catherine Kinsey" <ckinsey@kumc.edu>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Cold Mountain Costumes
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The museum I have done volunteer work at has several Civil War era, and
post-CW era dresses that are in two pieces, altho both parts are made of
matching fabrics.

One of the oldest came in the last time I was there.  We are pretty
sure it is 1850's, might even be late 1840's.  Bodice and skirt is
separate.  They are made out of a very lightweight wool with the most
atrocious printed strips, as in they are so bad they have their own
charm :).  It is in to bad of a shape to display but will be kept for
research.

This really isn't my favorite era but I have to admit it is fun to be
able to see the inside of the garments and get a close-up look at
details such as the lace.

Catherine 
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In a message dated 1/26/2004 9:22:05 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:
read somewhere everything is either linen or wool....because these were the 
two fibers the self sufficient commutity produced. I
Self sufficient community?  By the mid-19th century?  Not very likely!!  
Cheap mass-produced cottons were available everywhere by then.

Ann Wass 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cold Mountain Costumes
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In a message dated 1/27/2004 9:50:46 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
AnnBWass@aol.com writes:

> Self sufficient community?  By the mid-19th century?  Not very likely!!  
> Cheap mass-produced cottons were available everywhere by then.
> 

See....that's what I thought too when I read it....unless they were Amish or 
high in the mountains or something. And even then... Now if it were a mill 
town everyone might have something made from the mill but even then.....

And I remember where I saw this. In The New Yorker. A "film" issue. It had 
these one page blurbs of certain film crew positions scattered throughout the 
issue, like one for "Production Designer", one for "Location Manager", one for 
"Costume Designer"....you get the idea.
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For the record I'm unsure of the dates but Nathaniel Hawthorne lived on a
commune sometime in the 1800's. It was called Brook Farm.

B~

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: January 27, 2004 10:40 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cold Mountain Costumes


> In a message dated 1/27/2004 9:50:46 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> AnnBWass@aol.com writes:
>
> > Self sufficient community?  By the mid-19th century?  Not very likely!!
> > Cheap mass-produced cottons were available everywhere by then.
> >
>
> See....that's what I thought too when I read it....unless they were Amish
or
> high in the mountains or something. And even then... Now if it were a mill
> town everyone might have something made from the mill but even then.....
>
> And I remember where I saw this. In The New Yorker. A "film" issue. It had
> these one page blurbs of certain film crew positions scattered throughout
the
> issue, like one for "Production Designer", one for "Location Manager", one
for
> "Costume Designer"....you get the idea.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] square nebula or goffered  or reticulated headdress
From: Lynn Downward <LDownward@chori.org>
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MILLINERS' LIST?!?!? Where, what, historic and modern?
LynnD


On 1/26/04 5:16 PM, "Cynthia Virtue"
<cvirtue+dated+1090718011.df688e@thibault.org> wrote:

> Hi Rebecca,
> 
> After you asked about this on the Milliner's list, I asked here for
> other square nebuly-ish pictures.
> 
> Annora had this additional information:
> 
> If you have access to Visual History of Costume, 14th and 15th
> centuries, there are three tomb effigies pictured that might fit the bill.
> I wouldn't exactly describe them as nebuly but a couple of them are
> honeycombed.  They're plates 25, 28, and 29.  25 is the only one that's
> squared but the fluting on the veiling looks pretty much like the
> Arnolfini veiling; not as stylized as the other two.  28 and 29 are
> honeycombed (two different styles) but they're inverted U's rather than
> being squared.  Dates range from 1360-1380.
> 

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http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SCA-Milliners/


=============================
On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
www.swapking.com/hats
http://www.cafeshops.com/kristalori
This month featuring the Lucrezia line
=============================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lynn Downward" <LDownward@chori.org>
To: "h costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: January 27, 2004 12:00 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] square nebula or goffered or reticulated headdress


> MILLINERS' LIST?!?!? Where, what, historic and modern?
> LynnD
>
>
> On 1/26/04 5:16 PM, "Cynthia Virtue"
> <cvirtue+dated+1090718011.df688e@thibault.org> wrote:
>
> > Hi Rebecca,
> >
> > After you asked about this on the Milliner's list, I asked here for
> > other square nebuly-ish pictures.
> >
> > Annora had this additional information:
> >
> > If you have access to Visual History of Costume, 14th and 15th
> > centuries, there are three tomb effigies pictured that might fit the
bill.
> > I wouldn't exactly describe them as nebuly but a couple of them are
> > honeycombed.  They're plates 25, 28, and 29.  25 is the only one that's
> > squared but the fluting on the veiling looks pretty much like the
> > Arnolfini veiling; not as stylized as the other two.  28 and 29 are
> > honeycombed (two different styles) but they're inverted U's rather than
> > being squared.  Dates range from 1360-1380.
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
_______________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 09:31:32 -0800 (PST)
From: KATHRYN WOLTERS <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] square nebula or goffered  or reticulated headdress
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I'm interested , too!! Do Tell, please!
Albra
(with ears perked to attention)

Lynn Downward <LDownward@chori.org> wrote:
MILLINERS' LIST?!?!? Where, what, historic and modern?
LynnD


On 1/26/04 5:16 PM, "Cynthia Virtue"
wrote:

> Hi Rebecca,
> 
> After you asked about this on the Milliner's list, I asked here for
> other square nebuly-ish pictures.
> 
> Annora had this additional information:
> 
> If you have access to Visual History of Costume, 14th and 15th
> centuries, there are three tomb effigies pictured that might fit the bill.
> I wouldn't exactly describe them as nebuly but a couple of them are
> honeycombed. They're plates 25, 28, and 29. 25 is the only one that's
> squared but the fluting on the veiling looks pretty much like the
> Arnolfini veiling; not as stylized as the other two. 28 and 29 are
> honeycombed (two different styles) but they're inverted U's rather than
> being squared. Dates range from 1360-1380.
> 

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From: KATHRYN WOLTERS <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] square nebula or goffered  or reticulated headdress
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I'm interested , too!! Do Tell, please!
Albra
(with ears perked to attention)

Lynn Downward <LDownward@chori.org> wrote:
MILLINERS' LIST?!?!? Where, what, historic and modern?
LynnD


On 1/26/04 5:16 PM, "Cynthia Virtue"
wrote:

> Hi Rebecca,
> 
> After you asked about this on the Milliner's list, I asked here for
> other square nebuly-ish pictures.
> 
> Annora had this additional information:
> 
> If you have access to Visual History of Costume, 14th and 15th
> centuries, there are three tomb effigies pictured that might fit the bill.
> I wouldn't exactly describe them as nebuly but a couple of them are
> honeycombed. They're plates 25, 28, and 29. 25 is the only one that's
> squared but the fluting on the veiling looks pretty much like the
> Arnolfini veiling; not as stylized as the other two. 28 and 29 are
> honeycombed (two different styles) but they're inverted U's rather than
> being squared. Dates range from 1360-1380.
> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] square nebula or goffered  or reticulated headdress
From: Lynn Downward <LDownward@chori.org>
To: h costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Thank you.
LynnD

On 1/27/04 9:09 AM, "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com> wrote:

> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SCA-Milliners/
> 
> 
> =============================
> On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
> Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
> www.swapking.com/hats
> http://www.cafeshops.com/kristalori
> This month featuring the Lucrezia line
> =============================
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lynn Downward" <LDownward@chori.org>
> To: "h costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: January 27, 2004 12:00 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] square nebula or goffered or reticulated headdress
> 
> 
>> MILLINERS' LIST?!?!? Where, what, historic and modern?
>> LynnD
>> 
>> 
>> On 1/26/04 5:16 PM, "Cynthia Virtue"
>> <cvirtue+dated+1090718011.df688e@thibault.org> wrote:
>> 
>>> Hi Rebecca,
>>> 
>>> After you asked about this on the Milliner's list, I asked here for
>>> other square nebuly-ish pictures.

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	<40159859.27603.56E4EF2@localhost>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] magnifying glasses
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 11:44:54 -0500
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The link below will take you directly to the page for linen count magnifiers
at Widget Supply, where I got mine.  Bargain prices, quick delivery.  They
have lots of other magnifiers, plus lots of other cool tools.
                     -Helen/Aidan

http://www.widgetsupply.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=magnifier-linen-count


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Hi folks...  I'm looking for something totally out of my area...

10-12th century Viking or Rus hats...

Can anyone point me to a resource?
Or tell me how to reach the milliners list?

Thanks,
Bridgette



Mari Stewart
Cornell University


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From: KATHRYN WOLTERS <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] square nebula or goffered  or reticulated headdress
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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thanks mucho!
Albra

Bice d'Este <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com> wrote:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SCA-Milliners/


=============================
On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
www.swapking.com/hats
http://www.cafeshops.com/kristalori
This month featuring the Lucrezia line
=============================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lynn Downward" 
To: "h costume" 
Sent: January 27, 2004 12:00 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] square nebula or goffered or reticulated headdress


> MILLINERS' LIST?!?!? Where, what, historic and modern?
> LynnD
>
>
> On 1/26/04 5:16 PM, "Cynthia Virtue"
> wrote:
>
> > Hi Rebecca,
> >
> > After you asked about this on the Milliner's list, I asked here for
> > other square nebuly-ish pictures.
> >
> > Annora had this additional information:
> >
> > If you have access to Visual History of Costume, 14th and 15th
> > centuries, there are three tomb effigies pictured that might fit the
bill.
> > I wouldn't exactly describe them as nebuly but a couple of them are
> > honeycombed. They're plates 25, 28, and 29. 25 is the only one that's
> > squared but the fluting on the veiling looks pretty much like the
> > Arnolfini veiling; not as stylized as the other two. 28 and 29 are
> > honeycombed (two different styles) but they're inverted U's rather than
> > being squared. Dates range from 1360-1380.
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 13:09:00 -0800
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for information (on Rus hats)
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Greetings,

I would like to second the question on Rus hats.  My Pelican is Rus and 
I'd like to surprise her with a spiff new chapeau for her birthday.  :) 
  My knowledge on this area is VERY limited.

Althea

On Tuesday, January 27, 2004, at 12:29 PM, M Stewart wrote:

>
>
> Hi folks...  I'm looking for something totally out of my area...
>
> 10-12th century Viking or Rus hats...
>
> Can anyone point me to a resource?
> Or tell me how to reach the milliners list?
>
> Thanks,
> Bridgette
>
>
>
> Mari Stewart
> Cornell University
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com
*** http://www.alfalfapress.com

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http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SCA-Milliners/

=============================
On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
www.swapking.com/hats
http://www.cafeshops.com/kristalori
This month featuring the Lucrezia line
=============================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "M Stewart" <ms154@cornell.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: January 27, 2004 3:29 PM
Subject: [h-cost] looking for information


> 
> 
> Hi folks...  I'm looking for something totally out of my area...
> 
> 10-12th century Viking or Rus hats...
> 
> Can anyone point me to a resource?
> Or tell me how to reach the milliners list?
> 
> Thanks,
> Bridgette
> 
> 
> 
> Mari Stewart
> Cornell University
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jan 27 16:27:24 2004
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From: KATHRYN WOLTERS <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] magnifying glasses
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Helen---
 thanks  mucho for the link to the great site--they've got all sorts of fun toys:)
Albra

Helen Pinto <hpinto@mindspring.com> wrote:
The link below will take you directly to the page for linen count magnifiers
at Widget Supply, where I got mine. Bargain prices, quick delivery. They
have lots of other magnifiers, plus lots of other cool tools.
-Helen/Aidan

http://www.widgetsupply.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=magnifier-linen-count


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lindisfarne monk garb in late 8th century
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Greetings--

> Monks in 8th century would be Franciscan?   If so,  you can read the Rule
> of the order.   Or the Rule for whichever order it is...  That will give
> you the information straight from the horses mouth,  so to speak.  No
> mucking about guessing what is going on in a picture...

Benedictine, not Franciscan (the Franciscan order started in the 13th
century, and they were mendicant friars--which in practical terms meant they
were not cloistered and lived off of alms--not monks).  You would also be
surprised how UNdescriptive most of the early Rules were. The Dominicans,
who used a modified form of the Rule of St. Augustine, said more or less
that anything that was donated to them was usable.

We tend to think of habit = uniform, where originally the Latin "habitus"
meant simply "clothes."  The main thing originally was that the clothing be
simple and distinctly NOT laymen's garb.

Susan

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] square nebula or goffered  or reticulated headdress
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Not a problem.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "KATHRYN WOLTERS" <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: January 27, 2004 3:54 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] square nebula or goffered or reticulated headdress


> thanks mucho!
> Albra
>
> Bice d'Este <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com> wrote:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SCA-Milliners/
>
>
> =============================
> On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
> Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
> www.swapking.com/hats
> http://www.cafeshops.com/kristalori
> This month featuring the Lucrezia line
> =============================
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Lynn Downward"
> To: "h costume"
> Sent: January 27, 2004 12:00 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] square nebula or goffered or reticulated headdress
>
>
> > MILLINERS' LIST?!?!? Where, what, historic and modern?
> > LynnD
> >
> >
> > On 1/26/04 5:16 PM, "Cynthia Virtue"
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Hi Rebecca,
> > >
> > > After you asked about this on the Milliner's list, I asked here for
> > > other square nebuly-ish pictures.
> > >
> > > Annora had this additional information:
> > >
> > > If you have access to Visual History of Costume, 14th and 15th
> > > centuries, there are three tomb effigies pictured that might fit the
> bill.
> > > I wouldn't exactly describe them as nebuly but a couple of them are
> > > honeycombed. They're plates 25, 28, and 29. 25 is the only one that's
> > > squared but the fluting on the veiling looks pretty much like the
> > > Arnolfini veiling; not as stylized as the other two. 28 and 29 are
> > > honeycombed (two different styles) but they're inverted U's rather
than
> > > being squared. Dates range from 1360-1380.
> > >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 13:54:29 -0800
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> The link below will take you directly to the page for linen count
> magnifiers at Widget Supply, where I got mine.  Bargain prices, quick
> delivery.  They have lots of other magnifiers, plus lots of other cool
> tools.
>                      -Helen/Aidan
> 
> http://www.widgetsupply.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Cod
> e=magnifier-linen-count

This looks a lot like mine, but mine is black with white measurement 
lines along the edges so that you have some scale despite the 
magnification. I can't tell if this one has scale indicator markings.

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Try American Science And Surplus.  They have loupes, magnifiers, and
linen testers (a "giant" one that that's freestanding and has a 4" field):
http://www.sciplus.com/category.cfm?subsection=21&category=193
That's the start of the magnifier category.
Among the cute things they have is a cheap loupe that's on a wire headband
for a whopping $3.95.  I've got that and one of the Bouche&Lombe doublet
loupes.  I really ought to buy myself a set of the eyeglass frame mounted
ones.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lindisfarne monk garb in late 8th century
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 18:19:49 -0500
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My, my question certainly started an interesting discussion!

Many thanks to those who replied.  It looks like a natural colored wool is 
the way to go.  "Beast color"  <gg>

And thanks for all the links.  I'm browsing the rules of Sts. Benedict and 
Francis, and I'm not even Catholic!  Fascinating read.

Michelle
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Royal Ontario Museum patterns
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Just a quick update on the ROM dress patterns:  someone had mentioned that
they were the same patterns as in Janet Arnold's _Patterns of Fashion_.  I
just received the 1700-75 pattern in the mail today, and the patterns were
actually taken from dresses in the ROM's collection.

- Kendra
http://demode.tweedlebop.com/

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Subject: [h-cost] url and "What Clothes Reveal" -book vs. exhibit 
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Thanks to everyone for the feedback on "What Clothes Reveal" - even though 
I feel
driven to do a bad "James Dean" imitation - "Can't you see you're tearing 
me apart?"

Also this notable antique costume collector and dealer has some cool images 
up on
her webpage:

  http://www.coraginsburg.com

Sheridan Alder (the other, southern Ontario, Sheridan)

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Bad Girls!  Another vice for me!  Thanks, didn't know there was a Milliners
group!

Sg



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Subject: [h-cost] Darn them!   Anyone seen Rayon/Cotton Velvet before?
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Phoenix Textiles

http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/fabric-apparel---fashion-fabrics-just
-arrived-velvet.htmlwww.

 

Has just gotten some of this stuff in..sounds like it would have a loverly
drape.

Have any of you held this stuff in your hot little hands?


Sg

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Catalina=20Saravia=20Quicedo?= <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Darn them!   Anyone seen Rayon/Cotton Velvet before?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I made a skirt out of some black that I got from C&C
fabrics. It is a nice weight and feel. It has this
funny velcro effect when I put the pieces together for
sewing.


 --- "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
wrote: > Phoenix Textiles
> 
>
http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/fabric-apparel---fashion-fabrics-just
> -arrived-velvet.htmlwww.
> 
>  
> 
> Has just gotten some of this stuff in..sounds like
> it would have a loverly
> drape.
> 
> Have any of you held this stuff in your hot little
> hands?
> 
> 
> Sg
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

=====
Seńora Catalina
Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] men's "scholars" gowns
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Sue Clemenger wrote:

> Interesting that it worked for you...it didn't for me when I tried it a 
> few years ago.  I ended up with a lot of fabric in my armpit, and not on 
> the outside where it belonged! <g> 
> 
> Kirrily Robert wrote:
>>
>> I have tried the sleeves from the Milanese Tailors Handbook, the ones
>> shaped like a P (see http://costume.dm.net/Tailors/pages/f87L.html), and
>> actually if you just trust and do it you'll find that it works.

Kirrily,

Which side of the sleeve seam did you put into the armpit? I'm trying 
this in muslin and like Sue's it is just not working. I have far too 
much fabric bunched under the arm.



Dawn



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] men's "scholars" gowns
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 12:27:33 -0500
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I have not done this garment, but looking at 7 gowns on the rack, everyone
is different; the unifying construction mode is that all are tightly pleated
to the uppersides of the shoulder area. Is there supposed to be a slit at
the elbow break?  Most of the gowns in my book of academical garb show
fantastic shapes, mostly very long for the ordinary arm but are accessed for
functional wear in this manner. The 'p' sleeve strikes me that for the time
period, the curved shape acted in some sort of gusset method of sleeve ease.
Don't know if this muddies the problem or not.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 11:42 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] men's "scholars" gowns


> Sue Clemenger wrote:
>
> > Interesting that it worked for you...it didn't for me when I tried it a
> > few years ago.  I ended up with a lot of fabric in my armpit, and not on
> > the outside where it belonged! <g>
> >
> > Kirrily Robert wrote:
> >>
> >> I have tried the sleeves from the Milanese Tailors Handbook, the ones
> >> shaped like a P (see http://costume.dm.net/Tailors/pages/f87L.html),
and
> >> actually if you just trust and do it you'll find that it works.
>
> Kirrily,
>
> Which side of the sleeve seam did you put into the armpit? I'm trying
> this in muslin and like Sue's it is just not working. I have far too
> much fabric bunched under the arm.
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cold Mountain Costumes
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 12:31:22 -0500
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Ah, Bronson Alcott's group. This earlier period was also the time of the
Shakers and Harmonists, other utopian movements.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2004 10:52 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cold Mountain Costumes


> For the record I'm unsure of the dates but Nathaniel Hawthorne lived on a
> commune sometime in the 1800's. It was called Brook Farm.
>
> B~
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: January 27, 2004 10:40 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cold Mountain Costumes
>
>
> > In a message dated 1/27/2004 9:50:46 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> > AnnBWass@aol.com writes:
> >
> > > Self sufficient community?  By the mid-19th century?  Not very
likely!!
> > > Cheap mass-produced cottons were available everywhere by then.
> > >
> >
> > See....that's what I thought too when I read it....unless they were
Amish
> or
> > high in the mountains or something. And even then... Now if it were a
mill
> > town everyone might have something made from the mill but even then.....
> >
> > And I remember where I saw this. In The New Yorker. A "film" issue. It
had
> > these one page blurbs of certain film crew positions scattered
throughout
> the
> > issue, like one for "Production Designer", one for "Location Manager",
one
> for
> > "Costume Designer"....you get the idea.
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> _______________________________________________
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>

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Subject: [h-cost] Elizabethan standing collars
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About 1/4 of teh way down on this page
http://vintagesewing.info/1940s/42-mpd/mpd-07.html there is a pattern for an
Elizabethan standing collar. It uses 1/4" slashes brought together to make
the collar stand without any other supports. Does anyone know if this is at
all period?


**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot
BRF FOF; Guilde of St. Lawrence

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---Cicero

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cold Mountain Costumes
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rather bad luck for hawthorne. He hated it never wrote a word and left in
disgust. I'm unsure of the Alcott refrence but I'd be more interested if it
was....I knew he had a few issues as well. (Alcott) I think I merely wanted
to point oout that the idea of communal living is old very old and what we'd
consider "hippies" have always been here in one way shape form or another.
The Farm in Summerville Tennesee stands out in my mind as being one of the
longer running ones in the US being nearly 35 IIRC.
=============================
On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
http://my.lulu.com/kristalori
Elizabethan Ladies Calendar
Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
www.swapking.com/hats
=============================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: January 28, 2004 12:31 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cold Mountain Costumes


> Ah, Bronson Alcott's group. This earlier period was also the time of the
> Shakers and Harmonists, other utopian movements.
> Kathleen
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2004 10:52 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cold Mountain Costumes
>
>
> > For the record I'm unsure of the dates but Nathaniel Hawthorne lived on
a
> > commune sometime in the 1800's. It was called Brook Farm.
> >
> > B~
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] men's "scholars" gowns
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Dawn wrote:
> Which side of the sleeve seam did you put into the armpit? I'm trying 
> this in muslin and like Sue's it is just not working. I have far too 
> much fabric bunched under the arm.

We did it with the seam runniing down the outside of the sleeve, so that
the bulge of the P-shaped pattern piece sits over the upper/outer arm
(around the deltoid, if you know your anatomy).

K.
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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cold Mountain Costumes
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I guess I need to see this film.  Having read the book, I do not recall any
such farm community.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 12:45 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cold Mountain Costumes


> rather bad luck for hawthorne. He hated it never wrote a word and left in
> disgust. I'm unsure of the Alcott refrence but I'd be more interested if
it
> was....I knew he had a few issues as well. (Alcott) I think I merely
wanted
> to point oout that the idea of communal living is old very old and what
we'd
> consider "hippies" have always been here in one way shape form or another.
> The Farm in Summerville Tennesee stands out in my mind as being one of the
> longer running ones in the US being nearly 35 IIRC.
> =============================
> On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
> http://my.lulu.com/kristalori
> Elizabethan Ladies Calendar
> Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
> www.swapking.com/hats
> =============================
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: January 28, 2004 12:31 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cold Mountain Costumes
>
>
> > Ah, Bronson Alcott's group. This earlier period was also the time of the
> > Shakers and Harmonists, other utopian movements.
> > Kathleen
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
> > To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2004 10:52 AM
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cold Mountain Costumes
> >
> >
> > > For the record I'm unsure of the dates but Nathaniel Hawthorne lived
on
> a
> > > commune sometime in the 1800's. It was called Brook Farm.
> > >
> > > B~
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jan 28 13:42:03 2004
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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <160.2af5baa5.2d47d35e@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cold Mountain Costumes
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On the subject of cotton production for the masses, I picked up two very
good books last summer that were very illuminating to me and some of you
might find useful.
Textiles in Early New England: Design, Production, and Consumption, Pub
Boston U.Dublin Seminar and A New Order of Things (How the textile industry
transformed New England) Paul E. Rivard,U Press of New England,Hanover and
London.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AnnBWass@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2004 9:44 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cold Mountain Costumes


> In a message dated 1/26/2004 9:22:05 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> AlbertCat@aol.com writes:
> read somewhere everything is either linen or wool....because these were
the
> two fibers the self sufficient commutity produced. I
> Self sufficient community?  By the mid-19th century?  Not very likely!!
> Cheap mass-produced cottons were available everywhere by then.
>
> Ann Wass
> _______________________________________________
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>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cold Mountain Costumes
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Guess we should have changed the topic. The original remark that the Brook
Farm references that I made had to do with someone expressing doubt on "self
sufficient" communities existing  this early in America's history. I made an
example of Brook Farm which IIRC was pre 1860.

Bice
=============================
On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
http://my.lulu.com/kristalori
Elizabethan Ladies Calendar
Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
www.swapking.com/hats
=============================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: January 28, 2004 1:39 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cold Mountain Costumes


> I guess I need to see this film.  Having read the book, I do not recall
any
> such farm community.
> Kathleen
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 12:45 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cold Mountain Costumes
>
>
> > rather bad luck for hawthorne. He hated it never wrote a word and left
in
> > disgust. I'm unsure of the Alcott refrence but I'd be more interested if
> it
> > was....I knew he had a few issues as well. (Alcott) I think I merely
> wanted
> > to point oout that the idea of communal living is old very old and what
> we'd
> > consider "hippies" have always been here in one way shape form or
another.
> > The Farm in Summerville Tennesee stands out in my mind as being one of
the
> > longer running ones in the US being nearly 35 IIRC.
> > =============================
> > On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
> > http://my.lulu.com/kristalori
> > Elizabethan Ladies Calendar
> > Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
> > www.swapking.com/hats
> > =============================
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
> > To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: January 28, 2004 12:31 PM
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cold Mountain Costumes
> >
> >
> > > Ah, Bronson Alcott's group. This earlier period was also the time of
the
> > > Shakers and Harmonists, other utopian movements.
> > > Kathleen
> > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > > From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
> > > To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > > Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2004 10:52 AM
> > > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cold Mountain Costumes
> > >
> > >
> > > > For the record I'm unsure of the dates but Nathaniel Hawthorne lived
> on
> > a
> > > > commune sometime in the 1800's. It was called Brook Farm.
> > > >
> > > > B~
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <004e01c3e5c0$a94d41c0$1eaab944@mad.chartermi.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan standing collars
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 20:26:41 +0100
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Hi.
The cut in a strip of material with small darts to make the neck curve it is
the same thing they did back then.
So it is authentic as such

Bjarne


----- Original Messae ----- 
From: <lotsofteapots@charter.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 6:03 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Elizabethan standing collars


> About 1/4 of teh way down on this page
> http://vintagesewing.info/1940s/42-mpd/mpd-07.html there is a pattern for
an
> Elizabethan standing collar. It uses 1/4" slashes brought together to make
> the collar stand without any other supports. Does anyone know if this is
at
> all period?
>
>
> **********************
> Rebecca Schmitt
> aka Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot
> BRF FOF; Guilde of St. Lawrence
>
> A room without books is like a body without a soul
> ---Cicero
>
> lotsofteapots@charter.net
> **********************
>
> _______________________________________________
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>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] men's "scholars" gowns
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 14:34:35 -0500
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Looking at the shape, that was my first thought, so that you would get the
multitude of small, tight gathers that seem to be a hall-mark of this
garment.  Thank you for the information!
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kirrily Robert" <skud@infotrope.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 1:34 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] men's "scholars" gowns


> Dawn wrote:
> > Which side of the sleeve seam did you put into the armpit? I'm trying
> > this in muslin and like Sue's it is just not working. I have far too
> > much fabric bunched under the arm.
>
> We did it with the seam runniing down the outside of the sleeve, so that
> the bulge of the P-shaped pattern piece sits over the upper/outer arm
> (around the deltoid, if you know your anatomy).
>
> K.
> _______________________________________________
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>
>

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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cold Mountain Costumes
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I am interested in this particular Farm that you mention.  it is not one
that I had heard of.  As a New Englander by birth and education, I tend to
have blinders on when it comes to other parts of the country that were
developing on parallel lines as other formative movements were under way in
the 'cradle of liberty. I Grew up with knowledge of the Shakers and NE
Utopian societies.  However, until I came to Pa., I confess that I had never
heard of the Harmonists. Shame on me!
So tell me, if I 'google' The Farm in Summerville, TN., will I get some idea
of how this community began and operated?
Kathleen----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 1:42 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cold Mountain Costumes


> Guess we should have changed the topic. The original remark that the Brook
> Farm references that I made had to do with someone expressing doubt on
"self
> sufficient" communities existing  this early in America's history. I made
an
> example of Brook Farm which IIRC was pre 1860.
>
> Bice
> =============================
> On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
> http://my.lulu.com/kristalori
> Elizabethan Ladies Calendar
> Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
> www.swapking.com/hats
> =============================
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: January 28, 2004 1:39 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cold Mountain Costumes
>
>
> > I guess I need to see this film.  Having read the book, I do not recall
> any
> > such farm community.
> > Kathleen
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
> > To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 12:45 PM
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cold Mountain Costumes
> >
> >
> > > rather bad luck for hawthorne. He hated it never wrote a word and left
> in
> > > disgust. I'm unsure of the Alcott refrence but I'd be more interested
if
> > it
> > > was....I knew he had a few issues as well. (Alcott) I think I merely
> > wanted
> > > to point oout that the idea of communal living is old very old and
what
> > we'd
> > > consider "hippies" have always been here in one way shape form or
> another.
> > > The Farm in Summerville Tennesee stands out in my mind as being one of
> the
> > > longer running ones in the US being nearly 35 IIRC.
> > > =============================
> > > On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
> > > http://my.lulu.com/kristalori
> > > Elizabethan Ladies Calendar
> > > Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
> > > www.swapking.com/hats
> > > =============================
> > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > > From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
> > > To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > > Sent: January 28, 2004 12:31 PM
> > > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cold Mountain Costumes
> > >
> > >
> > > > Ah, Bronson Alcott's group. This earlier period was also the time of
> the
> > > > Shakers and Harmonists, other utopian movements.
> > > > Kathleen
> > > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > > > From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
> > > > To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > > > Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2004 10:52 AM
> > > > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cold Mountain Costumes
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > For the record I'm unsure of the dates but Nathaniel Hawthorne
lived
> > on
> > > a
> > > > > commune sometime in the 1800's. It was called Brook Farm.
> > > > >
> > > > > B~
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
>

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: "Self Sufficiency"; was Cold Mountain Costumes
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As to "self-sufficient" communities, someone made a reference to the costume 
designer's referring to the farm community in the film as "self sufficient."  
I don't deny that there were the occasional "utopian" communities who may have 
consciously tried to be self sufficient.  What I question is that there were 
any communities so isolated that they HAD to be self sufficient as they did 
not have access to mass-produced goods.  Just don't think that was a fact by the 
mid-19th century in the U.S.

Ann Wass
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: M Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: "Self Sufficiency"; was Cold Mountain Costumes
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 >Ann wrote:  in regards to mid-19th century US ...
 >What I question is that there were any communities so isolated
 >that they HAD to be self sufficient as they did
 >not have access to mass-produced goods.  Just don't think that was
 >a fact by the mid-19th century in the U.S.

Ah...   I need to disagree with that statement.   respectfully, of 
course.  ; >
Many of the mountain communities of Appalachia (from Northern Ga. to 
Kentucky and W. Va) may never have seen  or heard information from the 
"rest of the world".   As an example...  not 15 miles from where I used to 
live there is a plaque erected to the last casualty of the Civil War.  A 
Young U.S. Army officer killed in the 1890's by some confederate soldiers 
who hadn't heard that the war was over.

I'm not saying that these areas were totally devoid of contact with the 
outside world.  But contact was sparse,  unreliable and usually more than 
most folks of the area could afford.  So yes,  the areas and communities 
were pretty self-sufficient.  Or they made do without.

There are many places where I hail from that only got electricity in the 
late-60's,  and only as a part of an effort started by LBJ to help the poor 
of rural Appalachia.  A Sears catalog was a "major" event in my father's 
childhood.  That's the 1940's.  And my little cabin that I lived for quite 
a while in a few years ago,  had no telephone and no central heat... (just 
a stove)

OCC...   looking for more information on Russian or Viking caps...  have 
leads on Birka and Jorvik...  any other ideas out there?

Bridgette
who hails from MeatCamp, NC...  just a hog waller away from PottersTown and 
BannersElk...

Mari Stewart
Cornell University


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cold Mountain Costumes
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Status: RO

It seems The Farm's website is down. I know they do their own web pages so
they may be revamping. You can see the store site here
http://www.farmcatalog.com/cgi-bin/Web_store/web_store.cgi
As it says on the page : The Farm is an intentional, spiritual community
founded in 1971, based on the principles of nonviolence and a respect for
the earth. It is still opertational and they do accept visitors but you must
call first so someone can meet you at the gate.
The other Commune I spoke of was brook Farm. Nathaniel Hawthorne lived there
for a year. Now as a New Englander I'm sure you've heard of Nathaniel? <G>
Here are some sites with his experiences there:
http://www.heureka.clara.net/art/hawthorn.htm
http://www.bartleby.com/65/ha/HawthornN.html
and to google:
http://www.google.com/search?q=nathaniel+hawthorne+and+brook+farm

For Bronson Alcott and Fruitlands:
http://www.shepherd.edu/transweb/fruitlands.htm

I hope this helps.
=============================
On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
http://my.lulu.com/kristalori
Elizabethan Ladies Calendar
Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
www.swapking.com/hats
=============================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: January 28, 2004 2:44 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cold Mountain Costumes


> I am interested in this particular Farm that you mention.  it is not one
> that I had heard of.  As a New Englander by birth and education, I tend to
> have blinders on when it comes to other parts of the country that were
> developing on parallel lines as other formative movements were under way
in
> the 'cradle of liberty. I Grew up with knowledge of the Shakers and NE
> Utopian societies.  However, until I came to Pa., I confess that I had
never
> heard of the Harmonists. Shame on me!
> So tell me, if I 'google' The Farm in Summerville, TN., will I get some
idea
> of how this community began and operated?
> Kathleen----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 1:42 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cold Mountain Costumes
>
>
> > Guess we should have changed the topic. The original remark that the
Brook
> > Farm references that I made had to do with someone expressing doubt on
> "self
> > sufficient" communities existing  this early in America's history. I
made
> an
> > example of Brook Farm which IIRC was pre 1860.
> >
> > Bice
> > =============================
> > On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
> > http://my.lulu.com/kristalori
> > Elizabethan Ladies Calendar
> > Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
> > www.swapking.com/hats
> > =============================
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
> > To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: January 28, 2004 1:39 PM
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cold Mountain Costumes
> >
> >
> > > I guess I need to see this film.  Having read the book, I do not
recall
> > any
> > > such farm community.
> > > Kathleen
> > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > > From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
> > > To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > > Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 12:45 PM
> > > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cold Mountain Costumes
> > >
> > >
> > > > rather bad luck for hawthorne. He hated it never wrote a word and
left
> > in
> > > > disgust. I'm unsure of the Alcott refrence but I'd be more
interested
> if
> > > it
> > > > was....I knew he had a few issues as well. (Alcott) I think I merely
> > > wanted
> > > > to point oout that the idea of communal living is old very old and
> what
> > > we'd
> > > > consider "hippies" have always been here in one way shape form or
> > another.
> > > > The Farm in Summerville Tennesee stands out in my mind as being one
of
> > the
> > > > longer running ones in the US being nearly 35 IIRC.
> > > > =============================
> > > > On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
> > > > http://my.lulu.com/kristalori
> > > > Elizabethan Ladies Calendar
> > > > Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
> > > > www.swapking.com/hats
> > > > =============================
> > > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > > > From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
> > > > To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > > > Sent: January 28, 2004 12:31 PM
> > > > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cold Mountain Costumes
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > Ah, Bronson Alcott's group. This earlier period was also the time
of
> > the
> > > > > Shakers and Harmonists, other utopian movements.
> > > > > Kathleen
> > > > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > > > > From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
> > > > > To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > > > > Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2004 10:52 AM
> > > > > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cold Mountain Costumes
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > > For the record I'm unsure of the dates but Nathaniel Hawthorne
> lived
> > > on
> > > > a
> > > > > > commune sometime in the 1800's. It was called Brook Farm.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > B~
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: "Self Sufficiency"; was Cold Mountain Costumes
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I haven't seen the film yet, but are we referring to compulsory
self-sufficiency before the war started, or after the war was well
underway?  Or semi-self-sufficiency by choice (in the 1960s my mother
didn't have to make my dresses but chose to most of the time) or by
necessity?

Vicki Betts
vbetts@gower.net



As to "self-sufficient" communities, someone made a reference to the
costume
designer's referring to the farm community in the film as "self
sufficient."
I don't deny that there were the occasional "utopian" communities who may
have
consciously tried to be self sufficient.  What I question is that there
were
any communities so isolated that they HAD to be self sufficient as they did

not have access to mass-produced goods.  Just don't think that was a fact
by the
mid-19th century in the U.S.

Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: "Self Sufficiency"; was Cold Mountain Costumes
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Status: RO

Thanks Bridgette...I wasn't sure how to go disagreeing with that statement
without sounding like a total shrew. Isolation in the mountain areas was
very high. People would run up to hide or whatever and not come down again
for years. I've noticed that some Appalachian area folk that I've come into
contact with in the last ten years in fact still referred to the CW as the
"War of Northern Aggression" or some such phrase. Now mind I visited the
mountain areas in my 20's and these were older people. I don't think they
thought of the war in that way it was simply the phrase used for
generations.Another drastic example is WWII era Japanese soldiers on little
islands with no clue it had been all over for ten years.

AS for the hat issue...are you looking for a pattern? Or examples?

B~
=============================
On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
http://my.lulu.com/kristalori
Elizabethan Ladies Calendar
Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
www.swapking.com/hats
=============================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "M Stewart" <ms154@cornell.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: January 28, 2004 3:13 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: "Self Sufficiency"; was Cold Mountain Costumes


>
>  >Ann wrote:  in regards to mid-19th century US ...
>  >What I question is that there were any communities so isolated
>  >that they HAD to be self sufficient as they did
>  >not have access to mass-produced goods.  Just don't think that was
>  >a fact by the mid-19th century in the U.S.
>
> Ah...   I need to disagree with that statement.   respectfully, of
> course.  ; >
> Many of the mountain communities of Appalachia (from Northern Ga. to
> Kentucky and W. Va) may never have seen  or heard information from the
> "rest of the world".   As an example...  not 15 miles from where I used to
> live there is a plaque erected to the last casualty of the Civil War.  A
> Young U.S. Army officer killed in the 1890's by some confederate soldiers
> who hadn't heard that the war was over.
>
> I'm not saying that these areas were totally devoid of contact with the
> outside world.  But contact was sparse,  unreliable and usually more than
> most folks of the area could afford.  So yes,  the areas and communities
> were pretty self-sufficient.  Or they made do without.
>
> There are many places where I hail from that only got electricity in the
> late-60's,  and only as a part of an effort started by LBJ to help the
poor
> of rural Appalachia.  A Sears catalog was a "major" event in my father's
> childhood.  That's the 1940's.  And my little cabin that I lived for quite
> a while in a few years ago,  had no telephone and no central heat... (just
> a stove)
>
> OCC...   looking for more information on Russian or Viking caps...  have
> leads on Birka and Jorvik...  any other ideas out there?
>
> Bridgette
> who hails from MeatCamp, NC...  just a hog waller away from PottersTown
and
> BannersElk...
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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About 1/4 of teh way down on this page
http://vintagesewing.info/1940s/42-mpd/mpd-07.html there is a pattern for an
Elizabethan standing collar. It uses 1/4" slashes brought together to make
the collar stand without any other supports. Does anyone know if this is at
all period?

Elizabethan standing collars would normally be a pleated ruff standing and open front. But the later period about 1600 and onwards the standing band was popular.
This is the right way to make a standing collar with a rectangular strip of material darted in the neck.
So it is originally right.

Bjarne







Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
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Hi the list.
I amm making a mans cloak after a pattern from Williamsburg. I make it in black wool flannel and i line it with pale blue cotton velvet. For the collar and cape i make it in persian fake goat skin (grey)
Now i would also like to make myself a muff. It was quite fashionable also for men. 
I was thinking about making the muff in fake persian goat skin two.
Has any of you tryed to make a muff?
I have never tryed it, but i thoaght about using watting in the interlinning. Would that be all right?
Any suggestions greately apreciated ;-)

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] elizabethan standing collar.
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 17:29:23 -0500
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About 1/4 of teh way down on this page
http://vintagesewing.info/1940s/42-mpd/mpd-07.html there is a pattern
for an
Elizabethan standing collar. It uses 1/4" slashes brought together to
make
the collar stand without any other supports. Does anyone know if this is
at
all period?

Elizabethan standing collars would normally be a pleated ruff standing
and open front. But the later period about 1600 and onwards the standing
band was popular.
This is the right way to make a standing collar with a rectangular strip
of material darted in the neck.
So it is originally right.
>>>>
True, but with no other supports?  Standing bands of this type always
sat on top of something, usually called a "supportase".  I'm not aware
of a way for them to stand up by themselves...

The darts in the collar don't make it stand up.  They make the fabric
turn so it lays in a circle without puckering.  Like the ones these
gentlemen are wearing here:
http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/17thc/clerk.jpg

Except in Elizabeth's time, they would have been on a supportase and not
worn by lowly soldiers...  ;)

Kass

Reconstructing History Patterns
http://reconstructinghistory.com
Join Our Pattern Discussion List:
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I was thinking about making the muff in fake persian goat skin two.
Has any of you tryed to make a muff?
I have never tryed it, but i thoaght about using watting in the
interlinning. Would that be all right?
Any suggestions greately apreciated ;-)
>>>>
Hi Bjarne.

I made a muff for myself last winter to go to an 18th century ball.  I
had an old fur coat (muskrat I think) that I inherited and never wear.
So I cut the sleeves off of it, opened up the seams on the underside of
each sleeve, and sewed the two sleeves together, making a big tube.  I
cut the top of the sleeves even and turned the original lining under so
that the cut side matched the finished side.  I didn't put any watting
or interlining in it because the original coat already had all that.  It
was really easy and it looked like the winter scenes you see in period
art.

I hope this gives you some ideas.

Wear it in good health!

Kass

Reconstructing History Patterns
http://reconstructinghistory.com
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> This is the right way to make a standing collar with a rectangular strip
> of material darted in the neck.
> So it is originally right.
> 
> True, but with no other supports?  Standing bands of this type always
> sat on top of something, usually called a "supportase".  I'm not aware
> of a way for them to stand up by themselves...


For a small collar on a woman's shirt or dress in the modern style it 
would work. The example on that site looks about 3" high and it would 
stand by itself.

As you say, you couldn't get a huge 16th century collar to stand without 
support, though.



Dawn


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And I will respectfully disagree, as well, but then I will let this thread 
drop.  No peddlers ever came through?  No one ever went to a town for anything?  
They grew, carded/combed, and spun, the fibers, then dyed and wove ALL their 
own fabrics for everything--shirts, chemises, stockings, trousers, tailored 
coats, waistcoats, dresses?  I doubt very much whether they made their own 
sewing thread or needles, or men's felt hats, for example, and if they had to buy 
those somewhere, why not fabric, too? 
You all may be right, but my studies in textile history indicate otherwise.

And that is where I will leave it.
Ann Wass 
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Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> Has any of you tryed to make a muff?
> I have never tryed it, but i thoaght about using watting in the interlinning. Would that be all right?

I have a muff, for reasons unknown passed down in the family; no idea 
how old it is.  It is very warm, but very, very lightweight.  I have not 
studied clothing like you have, but I'd probably use fluffy unspun wool, 
because it would be very warm and very light.  Could be eiderdown, 
though, I suppose; I've never taken it apart.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary 
safety deserve neither liberty nor safety. - B. Franklin, 1759
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: "Self Sufficiency"; was Cold Mountain Costumes
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     I don't think it was ever a fact.  The country in fact relied heavily
on import from 1607 until 1774, when difficulties with the mother country
started to cause difficulties.  Even then, rather then self sufficient
communities, one starts to see an increase in an already present coastwise
trade.

     I really think this self sufficient American is a myth (with the
exception of a few special communities some of which has already been
mentioned.  I used to believe it, but as I have learned more about this
country's history, and see the actual documents, a different story starts to
come alive.  We have a lot of these myths.


Ron Carnegie
>
>
> As to "self-sufficient" communities, someone made a reference to the
> costume
> designer's referring to the farm community in the film as "self
> sufficient."
> I don't deny that there were the occasional "utopian" communities who may
> have
> consciously tried to be self sufficient.  What I question is that there
> were
> any communities so isolated that they HAD to be self sufficient
> as they did
>
> not have access to mass-produced goods.  Just don't think that was a fact
> by the
> mid-19th century in the U.S.
>
> Ann Wass
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: "Self Sufficiency"; was Cold Mountain Costumes
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In a message dated 1/28/2004 6:42:28 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
AnnBWass@aol.com writes:

> You all may be right, but my studies in textile history indicate otherwise.
> 

I think the key here is theatrical. Whether there were completely self 
sufficient communities all over the place or not really has nothing to do with the 
FILM. It's a FILM remember...of a novel.

I would imagine in reality a community in the middle to the end of the war 
would be forced to be more self sufficient than usual....But even Scarlet wore 
her mother's earrings and used the fine curtain fabric for a new dress. There 
was life before the war that evidence of didn't just evaporate.

Still I can see exaggerating the isolation and gung ho attitude of being self 
sufficient in the costumes and art direction to create an atmosphere. A push 
to invoke that bubble of idealic refuge from the horrors of the war and point 
hard to the struggle everyone had surviving, fighting in battle or at home.

Still, why the 1840s sleeves???!!!   :-P
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cold Mountain Costumes
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Thank you, Bice, again.  As I have indicated, I am well aquatinted with the
NE Utopian Societies.  I am interested in other utopian groups that were
also developing and following the ideals in  other US territories at roughly
the same time. (RE Costume content, I am sure that there is additional
history here that connects with the general picture of how people clothed
themselves and how they counted in the general scheme of life.)
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 2:59 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cold Mountain Costumes


> It seems The Farm's website is down. I know they do their own web pages so
> they may be revamping. You can see the store site here
> http://www.farmcatalog.com/cgi-bin/Web_store/web_store.cgi
> As it says on the page : The Farm is an intentional, spiritual community
> founded in 1971, based on the principles of nonviolence and a respect for
> the earth. It is still opertational and they do accept visitors but you
must
> call first so someone can meet you at the gate.
> The other Commune I spoke of was brook Farm. Nathaniel Hawthorne lived
there
> for a year. Now as a New Englander I'm sure you've heard of Nathaniel? <G>
> Here are some sites with his experiences there:
> http://www.heureka.clara.net/art/hawthorn.htm
> http://www.bartleby.com/65/ha/HawthornN.html
> and to google:
> http://www.google.com/search?q=nathaniel+hawthorne+and+brook+farm
>
> For Bronson Alcott and Fruitlands:
> http://www.shepherd.edu/transweb/fruitlands.htm
>
> I hope this helps.
> =============================
> On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
> http://my.lulu.com/kristalori
> Elizabethan Ladies Calendar
> Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
> www.swapking.com/hats
> =============================
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: January 28, 2004 2:44 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cold Mountain Costumes
>
>
> > I am interested in this particular Farm that you mention.  it is not one
> > that I had heard of.  As a New Englander by birth and education, I tend
to
> > have blinders on when it comes to other parts of the country that were
> > developing on parallel lines as other formative movements were under way
> in
> > the 'cradle of liberty. I Grew up with knowledge of the Shakers and NE
> > Utopian societies.  However, until I came to Pa., I confess that I had
> never
> > heard of the Harmonists. Shame on me!
> > So tell me, if I 'google' The Farm in Summerville, TN., will I get some
> idea
> > of how this community began and operated?
> > Kathleen----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
> > To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 1:42 PM
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cold Mountain Costumes
> >
> >
> > > Guess we should have changed the topic. The original remark that the
> Brook
> > > Farm references that I made had to do with someone expressing doubt on
> > "self
> > > sufficient" communities existing  this early in America's history. I
> made
> > an
> > > example of Brook Farm which IIRC was pre 1860.
> > >
> > > Bice
> > > =============================
> > > On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
> > > http://my.lulu.com/kristalori
> > > Elizabethan Ladies Calendar
> > > Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
> > > www.swapking.com/hats
> > > =============================
> > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > > From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
> > > To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > > Sent: January 28, 2004 1:39 PM
> > > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cold Mountain Costumes
> > >
> > >
> > > > I guess I need to see this film.  Having read the book, I do not
> recall
> > > any
> > > > such farm community.
> > > > Kathleen
> > > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > > > From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
> > > > To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > > > Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 12:45 PM
> > > > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cold Mountain Costumes
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > rather bad luck for hawthorne. He hated it never wrote a word and
> left
> > > in
> > > > > disgust. I'm unsure of the Alcott refrence but I'd be more
> interested
> > if
> > > > it
> > > > > was....I knew he had a few issues as well. (Alcott) I think I
merely
> > > > wanted
> > > > > to point oout that the idea of communal living is old very old and
> > what
> > > > we'd
> > > > > consider "hippies" have always been here in one way shape form or
> > > another.
> > > > > The Farm in Summerville Tennesee stands out in my mind as being
one
> of
> > > the
> > > > > longer running ones in the US being nearly 35 IIRC.
> > > > > =============================
> > > > > On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
> > > > > http://my.lulu.com/kristalori
> > > > > Elizabethan Ladies Calendar
> > > > > Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
> > > > > www.swapking.com/hats
> > > > > =============================
> > > > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > > > > From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
> > > > > To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > > > > Sent: January 28, 2004 12:31 PM
> > > > > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cold Mountain Costumes
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > > Ah, Bronson Alcott's group. This earlier period was also the
time
> of
> > > the
> > > > > > Shakers and Harmonists, other utopian movements.
> > > > > > Kathleen
> > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > > > > > From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
> > > > > > To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > > > > > Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2004 10:52 AM
> > > > > > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cold Mountain Costumes
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > > For the record I'm unsure of the dates but Nathaniel Hawthorne
> > lived
> > > > on
> > > > > a
> > > > > > > commune sometime in the 1800's. It was called Brook Farm.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > B~
> > > _______________________________________________
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <005c01c3e5ef$5f620670$bc6453d8@Kass>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] muffs
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 08:02:05 -0500
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My antique muffs for the earliest are small down 'tubes that have been
covered with soft fur. the handle is a silk cord loop on one end. I also
have one with a flap on the out side that conceals a purse.
I made some for a wedding once that featured marabou around the out side
that was set close enough to resemble fur. Same general make up.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <historian@reconstructinghistory.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 5:37 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] muffs


> I was thinking about making the muff in fake persian goat skin two.
> Has any of you tryed to make a muff?
> I have never tryed it, but i thoaght about using watting in the
> interlinning. Would that be all right?
> Any suggestions greately apreciated ;-)
> >>>>
> Hi Bjarne.
>
> I made a muff for myself last winter to go to an 18th century ball.  I
> had an old fur coat (muskrat I think) that I inherited and never wear.
> So I cut the sleeves off of it, opened up the seams on the underside of
> each sleeve, and sewed the two sleeves together, making a big tube.  I
> cut the top of the sleeves even and turned the original lining under so
> that the cut side matched the finished side.  I didn't put any watting
> or interlining in it because the original coat already had all that.  It
> was really easy and it looked like the winter scenes you see in period
> art.
>
> I hope this gives you some ideas.
>
> Wear it in good health!
>
> Kass
>
> Reconstructing History Patterns
> http://reconstructinghistory.com
> Join Our Pattern Discussion List:
> http://reconstructinghistory.com/mailman/listinfo/patterns_reconstructin
> ghistory.com
>
>
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>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ? - "What Clothes Reveal" -book vs. exhibit
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Still not sure I would recommend a visit all the way from Canada in February, 
but this thread has inspired me to go back again--I saw it once and vowed to 
go back.  So I'm going Feb. 15--the show closes Feb. 16.

Let's hope for decent weather.

Ann Wass
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From: Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>
To: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue+dated+1090889697.7a6139@thibault.org>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] muffs
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The Museum of Fine Arts in Boston has a wonderful 18th century muff,
circular, about 12 inches long, stuffed with something that feels like
down/feathers or wool fluff, and it is colered in colorful feathers.
Such a gorgeous little jewel.

Katy

On Wed, 28 Jan 2004, Cynthia Virtue wrote:

>Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>> Has any of you tryed to make a muff?
>> I have never tryed it, but i thoaght about using watting in the interlinning. Would that be all right?
>
>I have a muff, for reasons unknown passed down in the family; no idea
>how old it is.  It is very warm, but very, very lightweight.  I have not
>studied clothing like you have, but I'd probably use fluffy unspun wool,
>because it would be very warm and very light.  Could be eiderdown,
>though, I suppose; I've never taken it apart.
>
>--
>Cynthia Virtue and/or
>Cynthia du Pré Argent
>
>They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary
>safety deserve neither liberty nor safety. - B. Franklin, 1759
>_______________________________________________
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Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.


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Actually, no, that's not mine.  Definitely similar in some respects 
(hair, posture, etc.), but the dress is definitely different.
The one in mine fits smoothly in the front (no tucks or whatever those 
parallel lines are).  Also, the dress in my painting is a golden-greeny 
color, not red.  And my painting is noted as being in Leipzig, not 
Berlin.  Some of the details of the landscape and such seem to be in 
better repair on my painting, although with the exception of the dress 
details, the paintings are remarkably similar.
I'd venture to say that maybe one is a copy of the other? or maybe 
they're both copies of something else?
--sue, finding costuming mysteries intriguing....

E House wrote:

> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
> 
>>According to the info provided by the calendar folks, it's:
>>"Woman with Braided Hair" (detail.  Albrech Durer.  Oil on panel,
>>German, 1497. Museum der bildenden Kunste, Leipzig.  PhoteO
>>artothek/Christoph Sandig.
>>--sue
> 
> 
> Ahh!
> This, maybe? Different information, but the only thing from 1497 (or -6,
> or -8) that seems about right, and I think I see where the hooks would be,
> in better resolution:
> http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/html/d/durer/1/02/03hair_d.html
> Speaking of which, I know it's been discussed on this type of gown before a
> zillion times, but has anyone come to any conclusions about those 4 vertical
> rows of something on either side of the front opening?


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Hey B ... ; >    I'm looking for more examples....  I have leads - but I'm 
not being able to turn up anything...  I'm looking for gosh darn near 
anything.   Archeological,  statuary, painting depictions, 
whatever...   thanks...  Mari



>AS for the hat issue...are you looking for a pattern? Or examples?
>
>B~



>looking for more information on Russian or Viking caps...  have
> > leads on Birka and Jorvik...  any other ideas out there?

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From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <5.2.1.1.2.20040128145910.01d79080@postoffice8.mail.cornell.edu>
	<5.2.1.1.2.20040129100941.01c2ceb8@postoffice8.mail.cornell.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Rus hats...
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 10:24:02 -0500
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I haven't "played" russian in ages. Let me see what I can find. Pattern for
one of the small cone pointy hats I can do...example. Gotta dig. Time line?

Bice
=============================
On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
http://my.lulu.com/kristalori
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "M Stewart" <ms154@cornell.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: January 29, 2004 10:12 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Rus hats...


> Hey B ... ; >    I'm looking for more examples....  I have leads - but I'm
> not being able to turn up anything...  I'm looking for gosh darn near
> anything.   Archeological,  statuary, painting depictions,
> whatever...   thanks...  Mari
>
>
>
> >AS for the hat issue...are you looking for a pattern? Or examples?
> >
> >B~
>
>
>
> >looking for more information on Russian or Viking caps...  have
> > > leads on Birka and Jorvik...  any other ideas out there?
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Catalina=20Saravia=20Quicedo?= <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain Costumes
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 yes, some STILL think of it that way. My grandmother
in Texas was one. And she was only an infant when the
war ended.

=====
Seńora Catalina
Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit


	
	
		
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From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain Costumes
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Well in this case it was teens of my own age (I was born in '72) who had
always heard it reffered to as such. It was that or "Dreadful Conflict"
=============================
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=============================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Catalina Saravia Quicedo" <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: January 29, 2004 10:19 AM
Subject: [h-cost] "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain Costumes


> yes, some STILL think of it that way. My grandmother
> in Texas was one. And she was only an infant when the
> war ended.
>
> =====
> Seńora Catalina
> Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit
>
>
>
>
>
> ___________________________________________________________
> BT Yahoo! Broadband - Free modem offer, sign up online today and save Ł80
http://btyahoo.yahoo.co.uk
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain Costumes
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In a message dated 1/29/2004 11:14:47 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com writes:

> It was that or "Dreadful Conflict"
> 

I've always preferred "The Late Unpleasantness".

[I heard a lady in Charleston refer to it this way....like nothing unpleasant 
has happened since! Of course she was putting on her Southern Belle act.]
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Subject: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
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Sorry for the cross-posts folks....Here is an intersting 'trend' at
Fredererick's of Hollywood.   Neither of these two corsets have cups and are
listed as fitting sizes 32 to 44!  Notice that the breasts are starting to
flatten in this model.....hmmm, one is even called the Renaisance
corset...(must be the curved neckline...can't be that they have a clue-sorry
NOI to anyonw who works for them!)
I bet on someone like myself who does not have implants,  that I would
flatten out quite nicely.  They aren't really that expensive...must lace up
the back?
 
 
 
http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002
<http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002&category%5
Fname=Corsets-All&product%5Fid=51245>
&category%5Fname=Corsets-All&product%5Fid=51245
 
http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002
<http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002&category%5
Fname=Bridal%2DCorset&product%5Fid=50640>
&category%5Fname=Bridal%2DCorset&product%5Fid=50640
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From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain Costumes
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Heh....been a while since I'd heard that one. That one seems to be a lower
countries term I've noticed. Seems to come from the Carolina's and that
area.
=============================
On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
http://my.lulu.com/kristalori
Elizabethan Ladies Calendar
Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
www.swapking.com/hats
=============================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: January 29, 2004 11:37 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain Costumes


> In a message dated 1/29/2004 11:14:47 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com writes:
>
> > It was that or "Dreadful Conflict"
> >
>
> I've always preferred "The Late Unpleasantness".
>
> [I heard a lady in Charleston refer to it this way....like nothing
unpleasant
> has happened since! Of course she was putting on her Southern Belle act.]
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jan 29 12:23:47 2004
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From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <001e01c3e66b$c6a5ce30$6501a8c0@SG01>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 11:57:59 -0500
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Status: RO

The trouble with FOH corsets is they are not made to last. I have repaired
more of these things than I care to count. Seams rip and/or  separate they
are not made for anyone with boobs period. And if you are a plus size.
Forget it. I love Victoria's Secret as an example...any bra on the planet
will fit me at a 38C or at most 38D. Will either VS or FOH? No. I have to
buy a 44D or LARGER  do you know what that does to my fragile psyche??

Bice
=============================
On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
http://my.lulu.com/kristalori
Elizabethan Ladies Calendar
Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
www.swapking.com/hats
=============================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "H-Costume@Indra. Com" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: January 29, 2004 8:28 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?


Sorry for the cross-posts folks....Here is an intersting 'trend' at
Fredererick's of Hollywood.   Neither of these two corsets have cups and are
listed as fitting sizes 32 to 44!  Notice that the breasts are starting to
flatten in this model.....hmmm, one is even called the Renaisance
corset...(must be the curved neckline...can't be that they have a clue-sorry
NOI to anyonw who works for them!)
I bet on someone like myself who does not have implants,  that I would
flatten out quite nicely.  They aren't really that expensive...must lace up
the back?

_______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jan 29 12:52:21 2004
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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Saragrace T. Knauf'" <saragrace@earthlink.net>,
   "H-Costume@Indra. Com" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 09:27:05 -0700
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
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I was having difficulty sending this file with the links.  I wanted to try
to send it w/o them.  If it reaches the sites, I will try again with the
links.
-----Original Message-----
From: Saragrace T. Knauf [mailto:saragrace@earthlink.net] 
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2004 6:28 AM
To: H-Costume@Indra. Com (h-costume@indra.com)
Subject: Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?


Sorry for the cross-posts folks....Here is an intersting 'trend' at
Fredererick's of Hollywood.   Neither of these two corsets have cups and are
listed as fitting sizes 32 to 44!  Notice that the breasts are starting to
flatten in this model.....hmmm, one is even called the Renaisance
corset...(must be the curved neckline...can't be that they have a clue-sorry
NOI to anyonw who works for them!)
I bet on someone like myself who does not have implants,  that I would
flatten out quite nicely.  They aren't really that expensive...must lace up
the back?
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jan 29 13:00:33 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Hmmmm ... Bice and Fragile in the same sentence .... girl, you know how to
make me smile confusedly. ;)

Love you honey!

For me, since I stopped breast feeding, VS fits nicely at a 38c. While I
was slimming down from breast feeding I was at a 40d. Unfortunately I
chose underwire so while it was an absolute fit, it was not comfortable. I
stuck it out cause without the wire I bounced with every step, bouncing
hurt. Wires kept the bounce down to nothing, no pain but uncomfortable.

What I like is that they are big on having 4 hooks and eyes on the closure
all the way down to a size 36c, all other makers have 2. Four keeps my
rolls of fat from folding the side and back part.

My FOH corset of 5 years is just now starting to pull at the decorative
part of the fabric seams but not the foundation.

My recommendation is that if anyone gets the new ones you get the cotton
ones and then reinforce where the seams are with seam tape laid flat
against it and stitch down on either side about a quarter of an inch away
from the seam. Do this on the inside. This will help it last longer. I
would stay away from the satin ones. Pretty but not worth more than a
couple of sexy evenings with your partner of choice.

I got two cotton ones a while back and niether one of them is showing any
signs of wear at the seams. I got lucky I think. Wish they still had that
one I would order two more and put them in storage.


Chiara

Bice dEste said:
> The trouble with FOH corsets is they are not made to last. I have
> repaired more of these things than I care to count. Seams rip and/or
> separate they are not made for anyone with boobs period. And if you are
> a plus size. Forget it. I love Victoria's Secret as an example...any bra
> on the planet will fit me at a 38C or at most 38D. Will either VS or
> FOH? No. I have to buy a 44D or LARGER  do you know what that does to my
> fragile psyche??
>
> Bice
> =============================
> On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
> http://my.lulu.com/kristalori
> Elizabethan Ladies Calendar
> Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
> www.swapking.com/hats
> =============================
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
> To: "H-Costume@Indra. Com" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: January 29, 2004 8:28 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
>
>
> Sorry for the cross-posts folks....Here is an intersting 'trend' at
> Fredererick's of Hollywood.   Neither of these two corsets have cups and
> are listed as fitting sizes 32 to 44!  Notice that the breasts are
> starting to flatten in this model.....hmmm, one is even called the
> Renaisance
> corset...(must be the curved neckline...can't be that they have a
> clue-sorry NOI to anyonw who works for them!)
> I bet on someone like myself who does not have implants,  that I would
> flatten out quite nicely.  They aren't really that expensive...must lace
> up the back?
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume



Ches


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>  yes, some STILL think of it that way. My grandmother
> in Texas was one. And she was only an infant when the
> war ended.

And it's not just the isolated people who think this way. It's a 
"Deep South" cultural thing. There are also people out there who 
still think that the south should secede from the rest of the US.

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
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Yeah well...it's loosing the wieght. I loose so far then stop. Facing a
stomach surgery isn't fun when they say it's gotta come off it's gotta. And
when you have a bustline that is impressive by any guidelines (I had a
reduction when I was 19 so they are still high up there) My new VS was a two
hook was so pretty I had to have it. When I got it and realized that there
was no way on gods green earth that this "38C" was going around me I cried.
I then ran up to ebay and grabbed two extensions. I WILL wear this
thing.Sexy undies are impossible in a plus size.And then when they don't fit
even after this is what size you've worn for years...I estimated that
according to VS I'd need at least a 48C/D and that sucks.

B~
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: January 29, 2004 12:45 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?


> Hmmmm ... Bice and Fragile in the same sentence .... girl, you know how to
> make me smile confusedly. ;)
>
> Love you honey!
>
> For me, since I stopped breast feeding, VS fits nicely at a 38c. While I
> was slimming down from breast feeding I was at a 40d. Unfortunately I
> chose underwire so while it was an absolute fit, it was not comfortable. I
> stuck it out cause without the wire I bounced with every step, bouncing
> hurt. Wires kept the bounce down to nothing, no pain but uncomfortable.
>
> What I like is that they are big on having 4 hooks and eyes on the closure
> all the way down to a size 36c, all other makers have 2. Four keeps my
> rolls of fat from folding the side and back part.
>
> My FOH corset of 5 years is just now starting to pull at the decorative
> part of the fabric seams but not the foundation.
>
> My recommendation is that if anyone gets the new ones you get the cotton
> ones and then reinforce where the seams are with seam tape laid flat
> against it and stitch down on either side about a quarter of an inch away
> from the seam. Do this on the inside. This will help it last longer. I
> would stay away from the satin ones. Pretty but not worth more than a
> couple of sexy evenings with your partner of choice.
>
> I got two cotton ones a while back and niether one of them is showing any
> signs of wear at the seams. I got lucky I think. Wish they still had that
> one I would order two more and put them in storage.
>
>
> Chiara
>
> Bice dEste said:
> > The trouble with FOH corsets is they are not made to last. I have
> > repaired more of these things than I care to count. Seams rip and/or
> > separate they are not made for anyone with boobs period. And if you are
> > a plus size. Forget it. I love Victoria's Secret as an example...any bra
> > on the planet will fit me at a 38C or at most 38D. Will either VS or
> > FOH? No. I have to buy a 44D or LARGER  do you know what that does to my
> > fragile psyche??
> >
> > Bice
> > =============================
> > On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
> > http://my.lulu.com/kristalori
> > Elizabethan Ladies Calendar
> > Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
> > www.swapking.com/hats
> > =============================
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
> > To: "H-Costume@Indra. Com" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: January 29, 2004 8:28 AM
> > Subject: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
> >
> >
> > Sorry for the cross-posts folks....Here is an intersting 'trend' at
> > Fredererick's of Hollywood.   Neither of these two corsets have cups and
> > are listed as fitting sizes 32 to 44!  Notice that the breasts are
> > starting to flatten in this model.....hmmm, one is even called the
> > Renaisance
> > corset...(must be the curved neckline...can't be that they have a
> > clue-sorry NOI to anyonw who works for them!)
> > I bet on someone like myself who does not have implants,  that I would
> > flatten out quite nicely.  They aren't really that expensive...must lace
> > up the back?
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>
> Ches
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 13:28:11 EST
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain Costumes
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In a message dated 1/29/2004 1:10:33 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
kat@grendal.rain.com writes:

> There are also people out there who 
> still think that the south should secede from the rest of the US.
> 

But not many. I don't live in the "deep" South but I do live in NC and there 
are very very few who actually obsess over it. Those of us interested in 
history [via clothes...and not] spend way more time on the Civil War than most 
people. That stereotype "Forget, Hell" type is not that prevalent. Even a lot of 
those who say they are that type, aren't. It's just so cute.....

NOT!
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From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain Costumes
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And an unlimited number of northerners who would let 'em.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <kat@grendal.rain.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: January 29, 2004 1:09 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain Costumes


>
> >  yes, some STILL think of it that way. My grandmother
> > in Texas was one. And she was only an infant when the
> > war ended.
>
> And it's not just the isolated people who think this way. It's a
> "Deep South" cultural thing. There are also people out there who
> still think that the south should secede from the rest of the US.
>
> Kat
> <kat@redtrollforge.com>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
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I'd imagine the Spandex in the fabric is what makes the "fit" possible 
without cups, although I betcha it'd be less effective, and perhaps even 
uncomfortable for those with a larger cup size.
The Renaissance corset looks like it wants to go under "wench" 
garb....you could probably get the girls where you wanted, but the rest 
of the silhouette still wouldn't look right.
If I still wore styles requiring corsetry, I'd want linen, I think, and 
whatever boning or other stiffening was appropriate.  But then, for me 
it's clothing, and not some fantasy thing for fun with a partner or 
under a modern costume.
--sue, who's never been big on the floofy girl stuff.....

Saragrace T. Knauf wrote:
> Sorry for the cross-posts folks....Here is an intersting 'trend' at
> Fredererick's of Hollywood.   Neither of these two corsets have cups and are
> listed as fitting sizes 32 to 44!  Notice that the breasts are starting to
> flatten in this model.....hmmm, one is even called the Renaisance
> corset...(must be the curved neckline...can't be that they have a clue-sorry
> NOI to anyonw who works for them!)
> I bet on someone like myself who does not have implants,  that I would
> flatten out quite nicely.  They aren't really that expensive...must lace up
> the back?
>  
>  
>  
> http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002
> <http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002&category%5
> Fname=Corsets-All&product%5Fid=51245>
> &category%5Fname=Corsets-All&product%5Fid=51245
>  
> http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002
> <http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002&category%5
> Fname=Bridal%2DCorset&product%5Fid=50640>
> &category%5Fname=Bridal%2DCorset&product%5Fid=50640
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jan 29 14:17:48 2004
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From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
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Status: RO

For a decent corset you want metal bones coutil or duck fabric and a lining
that won't scratch or make you sweat like a pig not to be inelegant over
it.There are any number of corsitiers out there who can get this for you in
any style you want.


B~

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: January 29, 2004 1:51 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?


> I'd imagine the Spandex in the fabric is what makes the "fit" possible
> without cups, although I betcha it'd be less effective, and perhaps even
> uncomfortable for those with a larger cup size.
> The Renaissance corset looks like it wants to go under "wench"
> garb....you could probably get the girls where you wanted, but the rest
> of the silhouette still wouldn't look right.
> If I still wore styles requiring corsetry, I'd want linen, I think, and
> whatever boning or other stiffening was appropriate.  But then, for me
> it's clothing, and not some fantasy thing for fun with a partner or
> under a modern costume.
> --sue, who's never been big on the floofy girl stuff.....
>
> Saragrace T. Knauf wrote:
> > Sorry for the cross-posts folks....Here is an intersting 'trend' at
> > Fredererick's of Hollywood.   Neither of these two corsets have cups and
are
> > listed as fitting sizes 32 to 44!  Notice that the breasts are starting
to
> > flatten in this model.....hmmm, one is even called the Renaisance
> > corset...(must be the curved neckline...can't be that they have a
clue-sorry
> > NOI to anyonw who works for them!)
> > I bet on someone like myself who does not have implants,  that I would
> > flatten out quite nicely.  They aren't really that expensive...must lace
up
> > the back?
> >
> >
> >
> > http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002
> >
<http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002&category%5
> > Fname=Corsets-All&product%5Fid=51245>
> > &category%5Fname=Corsets-All&product%5Fid=51245
> >
> > http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002
> >
<http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002&category%5
> > Fname=Bridal%2DCorset&product%5Fid=50640>
> > &category%5Fname=Bridal%2DCorset&product%5Fid=50640
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jan 29 14:42:48 2004
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Catalina=20Saravia=20Quicedo?= <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

The 1860's reenactors generally recommend to newcomers
the VS 'dream corset' to give the correct profile for
1861/1862. However, having owned one, they are not
really sturdy enough for people over 38C. The seams
and eyelets continually come out and have to be
resewn. That is if the fabric doesn't rip through
entirely. These have been around for a few years.




 --- "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
wrote: > Sorry for the cross-posts folks....Here is an
> intersting 'trend' at
> Fredererick's of Hollywood.   Neither of these two
> corsets have cups and are
> listed as fitting sizes 32 to 44!  Notice that the
> breasts are starting to
> flatten in this model.....hmmm, one is even called
> the Renaisance
> corset...(must be the curved neckline...can't be
> that they have a clue-sorry
> NOI to anyonw who works for them!)
> I bet on someone like myself who does not have
> implants,  that I would
> flatten out quite nicely.  They aren't really that
> expensive...must lace up
> the back?
>  
>  
>  
>

=====
Seńora Catalina
Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit


	
	
		
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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 11:10:32 -0700
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Hmm, I was given one many moons ago by a boyfriend, but never wore it...so I
can't comment on the durability, but the silhouette is what I find most
interesting.

Sg

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Bice d'Este
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2004 9:58 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?


The trouble with FOH corsets is they are not made to last. I have repaired
more of these things than I care to count. Seams rip and/or  separate they
are not made for anyone with boobs period. And if you are a plus size.
Forget it. I love Victoria's Secret as an example...any bra on the planet
will fit me at a 38C or at most 38D. Will either VS or FOH? No. I have to
buy a 44D or LARGER  do you know what that does to my fragile psyche??

Bice

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>>> MelanieWilson@dragonflight.co.uk 1/26/04 11:40:45 PM >>>
>>and Margaret Rose 

>Do you mean Princess Margaret ?

Yes, she does. I believe the middle name was commonly used when the
sisters were young.



Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 15:03:57 -0500
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Status: RO

I don't know how this one would do for Ren. but it isn't bad for late 18th
C. It does lace up the back and can'mush or lift up ' as wanted. For my non
sewers, I have been suggesting this as one you can get away with...We have
released the straps with a couple of styles and still maintains good support
(if you aren't a c or d cup). The strapless 'flat front' style also works
well.These at least omit the need to further bone the bodice for a brief
costume occasion. As a stepping stone to the real thing, I have found them
useful, indeed!  And the price is right.  They stand up well in the wash and
do not get terribly body bent in the long time wearing.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "H-Costume@Indra. Com" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2004 8:28 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?


Sorry for the cross-posts folks....Here is an intersting 'trend' at
Fredererick's of Hollywood.   Neither of these two corsets have cups and are
listed as fitting sizes 32 to 44!  Notice that the breasts are starting to
flatten in this model.....hmmm, one is even called the Renaisance
corset...(must be the curved neckline...can't be that they have a clue-sorry
NOI to anyonw who works for them!)
I bet on someone like myself who does not have implants,  that I would
flatten out quite nicely.  They aren't really that expensive...must lace up
the back?



http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002
<http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002&category%5
Fname=Corsets-All&product%5Fid=51245>
&category%5Fname=Corsets-All&product%5Fid=51245

http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002
<http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002&category%5
Fname=Bridal%2DCorset&product%5Fid=50640>
&category%5Fname=Bridal%2DCorset&product%5Fid=50640
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 15:18:02 -0500
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Status: RO

The first time I used this 'Ren." corset, my actress was about #40D, and the
period costume was about 1680.  It worked well under her very opened neck
gown.  One of the scenes in the play had her crawling out from a table on
hands and knees, center stage.  When the Director saw her ready for the
first dress rehearsal, he took me aside and queried whether or not the
bodice would have to be 'altered.  I told him to watch. The woman did her
thing and NO Spill. He was impressed.  The actress was over joyed that for
the first time in ages she felt svelte and could do the show with
confidence.  (Now me, Having ordered from Frederick's, I was not looking
forward to all the catalogues that that order was apt to generate.)
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2004 1:51 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?


> I'd imagine the Spandex in the fabric is what makes the "fit" possible
> without cups, although I betcha it'd be less effective, and perhaps even
> uncomfortable for those with a larger cup size.
> The Renaissance corset looks like it wants to go under "wench"
> garb....you could probably get the girls where you wanted, but the rest
> of the silhouette still wouldn't look right.
> If I still wore styles requiring corsetry, I'd want linen, I think, and
> whatever boning or other stiffening was appropriate.  But then, for me
> it's clothing, and not some fantasy thing for fun with a partner or
> under a modern costume.
> --sue, who's never been big on the floofy girl stuff.....
>
> Saragrace T. Knauf wrote:
> > Sorry for the cross-posts folks....Here is an intersting 'trend' at
> > Fredererick's of Hollywood.   Neither of these two corsets have cups and
are
> > listed as fitting sizes 32 to 44!  Notice that the breasts are starting
to
> > flatten in this model.....hmmm, one is even called the Renaisance
> > corset...(must be the curved neckline...can't be that they have a
clue-sorry
> > NOI to anyonw who works for them!)
> > I bet on someone like myself who does not have implants,  that I would
> > flatten out quite nicely.  They aren't really that expensive...must lace
up
> > the back?
> >
> >
> >
> > http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002
> >
<http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002&category%5
> > Fname=Corsets-All&product%5Fid=51245>
> > &category%5Fname=Corsets-All&product%5Fid=51245
> >
> > http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002
> >
<http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002&category%5
> > Fname=Bridal%2DCorset&product%5Fid=50640>
> > &category%5Fname=Bridal%2DCorset&product%5Fid=50640
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jan 29 16:23:07 2004
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From: "Alexia S. Jacobs" <asj2001@columbia.edu>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
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Status: RO

I have found, at least with my eighteenth century stays, that cupless
corsets tend to push the breasts up enormously--in fact more than I would
often like them to.  The 18th century ideal was not to appear to have huge
breasts.  They were meant to rise above the neckline but not too much.  I
read somewhere that the tendency was to tuck the breasts down and outwards
to achieve this, but mine eventually just rise again.  Any suggestions?
Alexia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <h-costume-request@indra.com>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2004 2:01 PM
Subject: h-costume Digest, Vol 3, Issue 67


> Send h-costume mailing list submissions to
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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>
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>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of h-costume digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. Re: "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain Costumes
>       (Bice d'Este)
>    2. Re: "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain Costumes
>       (AlbertCat@aol.com)
>    3. Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks? (Saragrace T. Knauf)
>    4. Re: "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain Costumes
>       (Bice d'Este)
>    5. Re: Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks? (Bice d'Este)
>    6. RE: Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
>       (Saragrace T. Knauf)
>    7. Re: Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
>       (Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio)
>    8. Re: "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain Costumes
>       (kat@grendal.rain.com)
>    9. Re: Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks? (Bice d'Este)
>   10. Re: "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain Costumes
>       (AlbertCat@aol.com)
>   11. Re: "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain Costumes
>       (Bice d'Este)
>   12. Re: Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks? (Sue Clemenger)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 10:56:24 -0500
> From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain
> Costumes
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <BAY1-DAV69rRnPB2yOU0001a421@hotmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Well in this case it was teens of my own age (I was born in '72) who had
> always heard it reffered to as such. It was that or "Dreadful Conflict"
> =============================
> On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
> http://my.lulu.com/kristalori
> Elizabethan Ladies Calendar
> Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
> www.swapking.com/hats
> =============================
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Catalina Saravia Quicedo" <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: January 29, 2004 10:19 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain Costumes
>
>
> > yes, some STILL think of it that way. My grandmother
> > in Texas was one. And she was only an infant when the
> > war ended.
> >
> > =====
> > Seńora Catalina
> > Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ___________________________________________________________
> > BT Yahoo! Broadband - Free modem offer, sign up online today and save
Ł80
> http://btyahoo.yahoo.co.uk
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 11:37:27 EST
> From: AlbertCat@aol.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain
> Costumes
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Message-ID: <da.23559d5.2d4a90c7@aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>
> In a message dated 1/29/2004 11:14:47 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com writes:
>
> > It was that or "Dreadful Conflict"
> >
>
> I've always preferred "The Late Unpleasantness".
>
> [I heard a lady in Charleston refer to it this way....like nothing
unpleasant
> has happened since! Of course she was putting on her Southern Belle act.]
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 06:28:25 -0700
> From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
> Subject: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
> To: "H-Costume@Indra. Com" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <001e01c3e66b$c6a5ce30$6501a8c0@SG01>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>
> Sorry for the cross-posts folks....Here is an intersting 'trend' at
> Fredererick's of Hollywood.   Neither of these two corsets have cups and
are
> listed as fitting sizes 32 to 44!  Notice that the breasts are starting to
> flatten in this model.....hmmm, one is even called the Renaisance
> corset...(must be the curved neckline...can't be that they have a
clue-sorry
> NOI to anyonw who works for them!)
> I bet on someone like myself who does not have implants,  that I would
> flatten out quite nicely.  They aren't really that expensive...must lace
up
> the back?
>
>
>
> http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002
>
<http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002&category%5
> Fname=Corsets-All&product%5Fid=51245>
> &category%5Fname=Corsets-All&product%5Fid=51245
>
> http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002
>
<http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002&category%5
> Fname=Bridal%2DCorset&product%5Fid=50640>
> &category%5Fname=Bridal%2DCorset&product%5Fid=50640
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 11:46:12 -0500
> From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain
> Costumes
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <BAY1-DAV41QOWl7hFR20000e667@hotmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Heh....been a while since I'd heard that one. That one seems to be a lower
> countries term I've noticed. Seems to come from the Carolina's and that
> area.
> =============================
> On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
> http://my.lulu.com/kristalori
> Elizabethan Ladies Calendar
> Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
> www.swapking.com/hats
> =============================
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: January 29, 2004 11:37 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain
Costumes
>
>
> > In a message dated 1/29/2004 11:14:47 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> > wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com writes:
> >
> > > It was that or "Dreadful Conflict"
> > >
> >
> > I've always preferred "The Late Unpleasantness".
> >
> > [I heard a lady in Charleston refer to it this way....like nothing
> unpleasant
> > has happened since! Of course she was putting on her Southern Belle
act.]
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 11:57:59 -0500
> From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <BAY1-DAV11UeM8bBbBL00010727@hotmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> The trouble with FOH corsets is they are not made to last. I have repaired
> more of these things than I care to count. Seams rip and/or  separate they
> are not made for anyone with boobs period. And if you are a plus size.
> Forget it. I love Victoria's Secret as an example...any bra on the planet
> will fit me at a 38C or at most 38D. Will either VS or FOH? No. I have to
> buy a 44D or LARGER  do you know what that does to my fragile psyche??
>
> Bice
> =============================
> On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
> http://my.lulu.com/kristalori
> Elizabethan Ladies Calendar
> Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
> www.swapking.com/hats
> =============================
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
> To: "H-Costume@Indra. Com" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: January 29, 2004 8:28 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
>
>
> Sorry for the cross-posts folks....Here is an intersting 'trend' at
> Fredererick's of Hollywood.   Neither of these two corsets have cups and
are
> listed as fitting sizes 32 to 44!  Notice that the breasts are starting to
> flatten in this model.....hmmm, one is even called the Renaisance
> corset...(must be the curved neckline...can't be that they have a
clue-sorry
> NOI to anyonw who works for them!)
> I bet on someone like myself who does not have implants,  that I would
> flatten out quite nicely.  They aren't really that expensive...must lace
up
> the back?
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 09:27:05 -0700
> From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
> Subject: [h-cost] RE: Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
> To: "'Saragrace T. Knauf'" <saragrace@earthlink.net>,
> "H-Costume@Indra. Com" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <000c01c3e684$bbfedee0$6501a8c0@SG01>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> I was having difficulty sending this file with the links.  I wanted to try
> to send it w/o them.  If it reaches the sites, I will try again with the
> links.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Saragrace T. Knauf [mailto:saragrace@earthlink.net]
> Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2004 6:28 AM
> To: H-Costume@Indra. Com (h-costume@indra.com)
> Subject: Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
>
>
> Sorry for the cross-posts folks....Here is an intersting 'trend' at
> Fredererick's of Hollywood.   Neither of these two corsets have cups and
are
> listed as fitting sizes 32 to 44!  Notice that the breasts are starting to
> flatten in this model.....hmmm, one is even called the Renaisance
> corset...(must be the curved neckline...can't be that they have a
clue-sorry
> NOI to anyonw who works for them!)
> I bet on someone like myself who does not have implants,  that I would
> flatten out quite nicely.  They aren't really that expensive...must lace
up
> the back?
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 11:45:54 -0600 (CST)
> From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <38500.198.134.51.13.1075398354.squirrel@webmail.io.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
>
> Hmmmm ... Bice and Fragile in the same sentence .... girl, you know how to
> make me smile confusedly. ;)
>
> Love you honey!
>
> For me, since I stopped breast feeding, VS fits nicely at a 38c. While I
> was slimming down from breast feeding I was at a 40d. Unfortunately I
> chose underwire so while it was an absolute fit, it was not comfortable. I
> stuck it out cause without the wire I bounced with every step, bouncing
> hurt. Wires kept the bounce down to nothing, no pain but uncomfortable.
>
> What I like is that they are big on having 4 hooks and eyes on the closure
> all the way down to a size 36c, all other makers have 2. Four keeps my
> rolls of fat from folding the side and back part.
>
> My FOH corset of 5 years is just now starting to pull at the decorative
> part of the fabric seams but not the foundation.
>
> My recommendation is that if anyone gets the new ones you get the cotton
> ones and then reinforce where the seams are with seam tape laid flat
> against it and stitch down on either side about a quarter of an inch away
> from the seam. Do this on the inside. This will help it last longer. I
> would stay away from the satin ones. Pretty but not worth more than a
> couple of sexy evenings with your partner of choice.
>
> I got two cotton ones a while back and niether one of them is showing any
> signs of wear at the seams. I got lucky I think. Wish they still had that
> one I would order two more and put them in storage.
>
>
> Chiara
>
> Bice dEste said:
> > The trouble with FOH corsets is they are not made to last. I have
> > repaired more of these things than I care to count. Seams rip and/or
> > separate they are not made for anyone with boobs period. And if you are
> > a plus size. Forget it. I love Victoria's Secret as an example...any bra
> > on the planet will fit me at a 38C or at most 38D. Will either VS or
> > FOH? No. I have to buy a 44D or LARGER  do you know what that does to my
> > fragile psyche??
> >
> > Bice
> > =============================
> > On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
> > http://my.lulu.com/kristalori
> > Elizabethan Ladies Calendar
> > Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
> > www.swapking.com/hats
> > =============================
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
> > To: "H-Costume@Indra. Com" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: January 29, 2004 8:28 AM
> > Subject: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
> >
> >
> > Sorry for the cross-posts folks....Here is an intersting 'trend' at
> > Fredererick's of Hollywood.   Neither of these two corsets have cups and
> > are listed as fitting sizes 32 to 44!  Notice that the breasts are
> > starting to flatten in this model.....hmmm, one is even called the
> > Renaisance
> > corset...(must be the curved neckline...can't be that they have a
> > clue-sorry NOI to anyonw who works for them!)
> > I bet on someone like myself who does not have implants,  that I would
> > flatten out quite nicely.  They aren't really that expensive...must lace
> > up the back?
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>
> Ches
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 10:09:30 -0800
> From: kat@grendal.rain.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain
> Costumes
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <4018DBDA.23054.122DFCF5@localhost>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
>
>
> >  yes, some STILL think of it that way. My grandmother
> > in Texas was one. And she was only an infant when the
> > war ended.
>
> And it's not just the isolated people who think this way. It's a
> "Deep South" cultural thing. There are also people out there who
> still think that the south should secede from the rest of the US.
>
> Kat
> <kat@redtrollforge.com>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 9
> Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 13:10:16 -0500
> From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <BAY1-DAV12N3FtYaCbG0000e22e@hotmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Yeah well...it's loosing the wieght. I loose so far then stop. Facing a
> stomach surgery isn't fun when they say it's gotta come off it's gotta.
And
> when you have a bustline that is impressive by any guidelines (I had a
> reduction when I was 19 so they are still high up there) My new VS was a
two
> hook was so pretty I had to have it. When I got it and realized that there
> was no way on gods green earth that this "38C" was going around me I
cried.
> I then ran up to ebay and grabbed two extensions. I WILL wear this
> thing.Sexy undies are impossible in a plus size.And then when they don't
fit
> even after this is what size you've worn for years...I estimated that
> according to VS I'd need at least a 48C/D and that sucks.
>
> B~
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: January 29, 2004 12:45 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
>
>
> > Hmmmm ... Bice and Fragile in the same sentence .... girl, you know how
to
> > make me smile confusedly. ;)
> >
> > Love you honey!
> >
> > For me, since I stopped breast feeding, VS fits nicely at a 38c. While I
> > was slimming down from breast feeding I was at a 40d. Unfortunately I
> > chose underwire so while it was an absolute fit, it was not comfortable.
I
> > stuck it out cause without the wire I bounced with every step, bouncing
> > hurt. Wires kept the bounce down to nothing, no pain but uncomfortable.
> >
> > What I like is that they are big on having 4 hooks and eyes on the
closure
> > all the way down to a size 36c, all other makers have 2. Four keeps my
> > rolls of fat from folding the side and back part.
> >
> > My FOH corset of 5 years is just now starting to pull at the decorative
> > part of the fabric seams but not the foundation.
> >
> > My recommendation is that if anyone gets the new ones you get the cotton
> > ones and then reinforce where the seams are with seam tape laid flat
> > against it and stitch down on either side about a quarter of an inch
away
> > from the seam. Do this on the inside. This will help it last longer. I
> > would stay away from the satin ones. Pretty but not worth more than a
> > couple of sexy evenings with your partner of choice.
> >
> > I got two cotton ones a while back and niether one of them is showing
any
> > signs of wear at the seams. I got lucky I think. Wish they still had
that
> > one I would order two more and put them in storage.
> >
> >
> > Chiara
> >
> > Bice dEste said:
> > > The trouble with FOH corsets is they are not made to last. I have
> > > repaired more of these things than I care to count. Seams rip and/or
> > > separate they are not made for anyone with boobs period. And if you
are
> > > a plus size. Forget it. I love Victoria's Secret as an example...any
bra
> > > on the planet will fit me at a 38C or at most 38D. Will either VS or
> > > FOH? No. I have to buy a 44D or LARGER  do you know what that does to
my
> > > fragile psyche??
> > >
> > > Bice
> > > =============================
> > > On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
> > > http://my.lulu.com/kristalori
> > > Elizabethan Ladies Calendar
> > > Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
> > > www.swapking.com/hats
> > > =============================
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
> > > To: "H-Costume@Indra. Com" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > > Sent: January 29, 2004 8:28 AM
> > > Subject: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
> > >
> > >
> > > Sorry for the cross-posts folks....Here is an intersting 'trend' at
> > > Fredererick's of Hollywood.   Neither of these two corsets have cups
and
> > > are listed as fitting sizes 32 to 44!  Notice that the breasts are
> > > starting to flatten in this model.....hmmm, one is even called the
> > > Renaisance
> > > corset...(must be the curved neckline...can't be that they have a
> > > clue-sorry NOI to anyonw who works for them!)
> > > I bet on someone like myself who does not have implants,  that I would
> > > flatten out quite nicely.  They aren't really that expensive...must
lace
> > > up the back?
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >
> >
> > Ches
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 10
> Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 13:28:11 EST
> From: AlbertCat@aol.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain
> Costumes
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Message-ID: <53.4187af9.2d4aaabb@aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>
> In a message dated 1/29/2004 1:10:33 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> kat@grendal.rain.com writes:
>
> > There are also people out there who
> > still think that the south should secede from the rest of the US.
> >
>
> But not many. I don't live in the "deep" South but I do live in NC and
there
> are very very few who actually obsess over it. Those of us interested in
> history [via clothes...and not] spend way more time on the Civil War than
most
> people. That stereotype "Forget, Hell" type is not that prevalent. Even a
lot of
> those who say they are that type, aren't. It's just so cute.....
>
> NOT!
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 11
> Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 13:16:44 -0500
> From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain
> Costumes
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <BAY1-DAV32kBXTW1xuW0001a259@hotmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
>
> And an unlimited number of northerners who would let 'em.
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <kat@grendal.rain.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: January 29, 2004 1:09 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain
Costumes
>
>
> >
> > >  yes, some STILL think of it that way. My grandmother
> > > in Texas was one. And she was only an infant when the
> > > war ended.
> >
> > And it's not just the isolated people who think this way. It's a
> > "Deep South" cultural thing. There are also people out there who
> > still think that the south should secede from the rest of the US.
> >
> > Kat
> > <kat@redtrollforge.com>
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 12
> Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 11:51:37 -0700
> From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <40195639.1060407@in-tch.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
>
> I'd imagine the Spandex in the fabric is what makes the "fit" possible
> without cups, although I betcha it'd be less effective, and perhaps even
> uncomfortable for those with a larger cup size.
> The Renaissance corset looks like it wants to go under "wench"
> garb....you could probably get the girls where you wanted, but the rest
> of the silhouette still wouldn't look right.
> If I still wore styles requiring corsetry, I'd want linen, I think, and
> whatever boning or other stiffening was appropriate.  But then, for me
> it's clothing, and not some fantasy thing for fun with a partner or
> under a modern costume.
> --sue, who's never been big on the floofy girl stuff.....
>
> Saragrace T. Knauf wrote:
> > Sorry for the cross-posts folks....Here is an intersting 'trend' at
> > Fredererick's of Hollywood.   Neither of these two corsets have cups and
are
> > listed as fitting sizes 32 to 44!  Notice that the breasts are starting
to
> > flatten in this model.....hmmm, one is even called the Renaisance
> > corset...(must be the curved neckline...can't be that they have a
clue-sorry
> > NOI to anyonw who works for them!)
> > I bet on someone like myself who does not have implants,  that I would
> > flatten out quite nicely.  They aren't really that expensive...must lace
up
> > the back?
> >
> >
> >
> > http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002
> >
<http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002&category%5
> > Fname=Corsets-All&product%5Fid=51245>
> > &category%5Fname=Corsets-All&product%5Fid=51245
> >
> > http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002
> >
<http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002&category%5
> > Fname=Bridal%2DCorset&product%5Fid=50640>
> > &category%5Fname=Bridal%2DCorset&product%5Fid=50640
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> End of h-costume Digest, Vol 3, Issue 67
> ****************************************
>

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jan 29 16:23:29 2004
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From: "Alexia S. Jacobs" <asj2001@columbia.edu>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <200401291901.i0TJ1H6Z031251@net.indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Bra sizes
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Status: RO

How are bra sizes supposed to work anyway?  Is the number supposed to be
underbust measurement?  Is it just a sizing scale?  I am inclined to think
it is rather arbitrary as I usually wear a 32/34 but my underbust
measurement is 30 and my bust measurement is 36.  (so is it the average of
the two?)  When people size me they generally take my bust measurement, but
doesn't that tend to vary with cup size?  The whole thing seems ridiculous.
Strapless bras are the worst to find.  When they are actually tight enough
to stay up they make my back lumpy.  (maybe I should try a longline one?) I
generally end up with the saleswoman trying several sizes on me and prodding
my breasts to make them sit right in them.  By the end I become disoriented
and lose all judgment as to what fits me and what doesn't.   Sorry for the
complaining.  Off to buy a new strapless bra now!  I wonder what size I will
be this time. . .
Alexia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <h-costume-request@indra.com>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2004 2:01 PM
Subject: h-costume Digest, Vol 3, Issue 67


> Send h-costume mailing list submissions to
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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>
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>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of h-costume digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. Re: "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain Costumes
>       (Bice d'Este)
>    2. Re: "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain Costumes
>       (AlbertCat@aol.com)
>    3. Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks? (Saragrace T. Knauf)
>    4. Re: "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain Costumes
>       (Bice d'Este)
>    5. Re: Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks? (Bice d'Este)
>    6. RE: Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
>       (Saragrace T. Knauf)
>    7. Re: Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
>       (Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio)
>    8. Re: "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain Costumes
>       (kat@grendal.rain.com)
>    9. Re: Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks? (Bice d'Este)
>   10. Re: "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain Costumes
>       (AlbertCat@aol.com)
>   11. Re: "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain Costumes
>       (Bice d'Este)
>   12. Re: Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks? (Sue Clemenger)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 10:56:24 -0500
> From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain
> Costumes
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <BAY1-DAV69rRnPB2yOU0001a421@hotmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Well in this case it was teens of my own age (I was born in '72) who had
> always heard it reffered to as such. It was that or "Dreadful Conflict"
> =============================
> On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
> http://my.lulu.com/kristalori
> Elizabethan Ladies Calendar
> Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
> www.swapking.com/hats
> =============================
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Catalina Saravia Quicedo" <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: January 29, 2004 10:19 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain Costumes
>
>
> > yes, some STILL think of it that way. My grandmother
> > in Texas was one. And she was only an infant when the
> > war ended.
> >
> > =====
> > Seńora Catalina
> > Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ___________________________________________________________
> > BT Yahoo! Broadband - Free modem offer, sign up online today and save
Ł80
> http://btyahoo.yahoo.co.uk
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 11:37:27 EST
> From: AlbertCat@aol.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain
> Costumes
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Message-ID: <da.23559d5.2d4a90c7@aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>
> In a message dated 1/29/2004 11:14:47 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com writes:
>
> > It was that or "Dreadful Conflict"
> >
>
> I've always preferred "The Late Unpleasantness".
>
> [I heard a lady in Charleston refer to it this way....like nothing
unpleasant
> has happened since! Of course she was putting on her Southern Belle act.]
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 06:28:25 -0700
> From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
> Subject: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
> To: "H-Costume@Indra. Com" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <001e01c3e66b$c6a5ce30$6501a8c0@SG01>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>
> Sorry for the cross-posts folks....Here is an intersting 'trend' at
> Fredererick's of Hollywood.   Neither of these two corsets have cups and
are
> listed as fitting sizes 32 to 44!  Notice that the breasts are starting to
> flatten in this model.....hmmm, one is even called the Renaisance
> corset...(must be the curved neckline...can't be that they have a
clue-sorry
> NOI to anyonw who works for them!)
> I bet on someone like myself who does not have implants,  that I would
> flatten out quite nicely.  They aren't really that expensive...must lace
up
> the back?
>
>
>
> http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002
>
<http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002&category%5
> Fname=Corsets-All&product%5Fid=51245>
> &category%5Fname=Corsets-All&product%5Fid=51245
>
> http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002
>
<http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002&category%5
> Fname=Bridal%2DCorset&product%5Fid=50640>
> &category%5Fname=Bridal%2DCorset&product%5Fid=50640
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 11:46:12 -0500
> From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain
> Costumes
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <BAY1-DAV41QOWl7hFR20000e667@hotmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Heh....been a while since I'd heard that one. That one seems to be a lower
> countries term I've noticed. Seems to come from the Carolina's and that
> area.
> =============================
> On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
> http://my.lulu.com/kristalori
> Elizabethan Ladies Calendar
> Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
> www.swapking.com/hats
> =============================
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: January 29, 2004 11:37 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain
Costumes
>
>
> > In a message dated 1/29/2004 11:14:47 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> > wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com writes:
> >
> > > It was that or "Dreadful Conflict"
> > >
> >
> > I've always preferred "The Late Unpleasantness".
> >
> > [I heard a lady in Charleston refer to it this way....like nothing
> unpleasant
> > has happened since! Of course she was putting on her Southern Belle
act.]
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 11:57:59 -0500
> From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <BAY1-DAV11UeM8bBbBL00010727@hotmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> The trouble with FOH corsets is they are not made to last. I have repaired
> more of these things than I care to count. Seams rip and/or  separate they
> are not made for anyone with boobs period. And if you are a plus size.
> Forget it. I love Victoria's Secret as an example...any bra on the planet
> will fit me at a 38C or at most 38D. Will either VS or FOH? No. I have to
> buy a 44D or LARGER  do you know what that does to my fragile psyche??
>
> Bice
> =============================
> On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
> http://my.lulu.com/kristalori
> Elizabethan Ladies Calendar
> Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
> www.swapking.com/hats
> =============================
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
> To: "H-Costume@Indra. Com" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: January 29, 2004 8:28 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
>
>
> Sorry for the cross-posts folks....Here is an intersting 'trend' at
> Fredererick's of Hollywood.   Neither of these two corsets have cups and
are
> listed as fitting sizes 32 to 44!  Notice that the breasts are starting to
> flatten in this model.....hmmm, one is even called the Renaisance
> corset...(must be the curved neckline...can't be that they have a
clue-sorry
> NOI to anyonw who works for them!)
> I bet on someone like myself who does not have implants,  that I would
> flatten out quite nicely.  They aren't really that expensive...must lace
up
> the back?
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 09:27:05 -0700
> From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
> Subject: [h-cost] RE: Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
> To: "'Saragrace T. Knauf'" <saragrace@earthlink.net>,
> "H-Costume@Indra. Com" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <000c01c3e684$bbfedee0$6501a8c0@SG01>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> I was having difficulty sending this file with the links.  I wanted to try
> to send it w/o them.  If it reaches the sites, I will try again with the
> links.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Saragrace T. Knauf [mailto:saragrace@earthlink.net]
> Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2004 6:28 AM
> To: H-Costume@Indra. Com (h-costume@indra.com)
> Subject: Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
>
>
> Sorry for the cross-posts folks....Here is an intersting 'trend' at
> Fredererick's of Hollywood.   Neither of these two corsets have cups and
are
> listed as fitting sizes 32 to 44!  Notice that the breasts are starting to
> flatten in this model.....hmmm, one is even called the Renaisance
> corset...(must be the curved neckline...can't be that they have a
clue-sorry
> NOI to anyonw who works for them!)
> I bet on someone like myself who does not have implants,  that I would
> flatten out quite nicely.  They aren't really that expensive...must lace
up
> the back?
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 11:45:54 -0600 (CST)
> From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <38500.198.134.51.13.1075398354.squirrel@webmail.io.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
>
> Hmmmm ... Bice and Fragile in the same sentence .... girl, you know how to
> make me smile confusedly. ;)
>
> Love you honey!
>
> For me, since I stopped breast feeding, VS fits nicely at a 38c. While I
> was slimming down from breast feeding I was at a 40d. Unfortunately I
> chose underwire so while it was an absolute fit, it was not comfortable. I
> stuck it out cause without the wire I bounced with every step, bouncing
> hurt. Wires kept the bounce down to nothing, no pain but uncomfortable.
>
> What I like is that they are big on having 4 hooks and eyes on the closure
> all the way down to a size 36c, all other makers have 2. Four keeps my
> rolls of fat from folding the side and back part.
>
> My FOH corset of 5 years is just now starting to pull at the decorative
> part of the fabric seams but not the foundation.
>
> My recommendation is that if anyone gets the new ones you get the cotton
> ones and then reinforce where the seams are with seam tape laid flat
> against it and stitch down on either side about a quarter of an inch away
> from the seam. Do this on the inside. This will help it last longer. I
> would stay away from the satin ones. Pretty but not worth more than a
> couple of sexy evenings with your partner of choice.
>
> I got two cotton ones a while back and niether one of them is showing any
> signs of wear at the seams. I got lucky I think. Wish they still had that
> one I would order two more and put them in storage.
>
>
> Chiara
>
> Bice dEste said:
> > The trouble with FOH corsets is they are not made to last. I have
> > repaired more of these things than I care to count. Seams rip and/or
> > separate they are not made for anyone with boobs period. And if you are
> > a plus size. Forget it. I love Victoria's Secret as an example...any bra
> > on the planet will fit me at a 38C or at most 38D. Will either VS or
> > FOH? No. I have to buy a 44D or LARGER  do you know what that does to my
> > fragile psyche??
> >
> > Bice
> > =============================
> > On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
> > http://my.lulu.com/kristalori
> > Elizabethan Ladies Calendar
> > Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
> > www.swapking.com/hats
> > =============================
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
> > To: "H-Costume@Indra. Com" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: January 29, 2004 8:28 AM
> > Subject: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
> >
> >
> > Sorry for the cross-posts folks....Here is an intersting 'trend' at
> > Fredererick's of Hollywood.   Neither of these two corsets have cups and
> > are listed as fitting sizes 32 to 44!  Notice that the breasts are
> > starting to flatten in this model.....hmmm, one is even called the
> > Renaisance
> > corset...(must be the curved neckline...can't be that they have a
> > clue-sorry NOI to anyonw who works for them!)
> > I bet on someone like myself who does not have implants,  that I would
> > flatten out quite nicely.  They aren't really that expensive...must lace
> > up the back?
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>
> Ches
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 10:09:30 -0800
> From: kat@grendal.rain.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain
> Costumes
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <4018DBDA.23054.122DFCF5@localhost>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
>
>
> >  yes, some STILL think of it that way. My grandmother
> > in Texas was one. And she was only an infant when the
> > war ended.
>
> And it's not just the isolated people who think this way. It's a
> "Deep South" cultural thing. There are also people out there who
> still think that the south should secede from the rest of the US.
>
> Kat
> <kat@redtrollforge.com>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 9
> Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 13:10:16 -0500
> From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <BAY1-DAV12N3FtYaCbG0000e22e@hotmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Yeah well...it's loosing the wieght. I loose so far then stop. Facing a
> stomach surgery isn't fun when they say it's gotta come off it's gotta.
And
> when you have a bustline that is impressive by any guidelines (I had a
> reduction when I was 19 so they are still high up there) My new VS was a
two
> hook was so pretty I had to have it. When I got it and realized that there
> was no way on gods green earth that this "38C" was going around me I
cried.
> I then ran up to ebay and grabbed two extensions. I WILL wear this
> thing.Sexy undies are impossible in a plus size.And then when they don't
fit
> even after this is what size you've worn for years...I estimated that
> according to VS I'd need at least a 48C/D and that sucks.
>
> B~
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: January 29, 2004 12:45 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
>
>
> > Hmmmm ... Bice and Fragile in the same sentence .... girl, you know how
to
> > make me smile confusedly. ;)
> >
> > Love you honey!
> >
> > For me, since I stopped breast feeding, VS fits nicely at a 38c. While I
> > was slimming down from breast feeding I was at a 40d. Unfortunately I
> > chose underwire so while it was an absolute fit, it was not comfortable.
I
> > stuck it out cause without the wire I bounced with every step, bouncing
> > hurt. Wires kept the bounce down to nothing, no pain but uncomfortable.
> >
> > What I like is that they are big on having 4 hooks and eyes on the
closure
> > all the way down to a size 36c, all other makers have 2. Four keeps my
> > rolls of fat from folding the side and back part.
> >
> > My FOH corset of 5 years is just now starting to pull at the decorative
> > part of the fabric seams but not the foundation.
> >
> > My recommendation is that if anyone gets the new ones you get the cotton
> > ones and then reinforce where the seams are with seam tape laid flat
> > against it and stitch down on either side about a quarter of an inch
away
> > from the seam. Do this on the inside. This will help it last longer. I
> > would stay away from the satin ones. Pretty but not worth more than a
> > couple of sexy evenings with your partner of choice.
> >
> > I got two cotton ones a while back and niether one of them is showing
any
> > signs of wear at the seams. I got lucky I think. Wish they still had
that
> > one I would order two more and put them in storage.
> >
> >
> > Chiara
> >
> > Bice dEste said:
> > > The trouble with FOH corsets is they are not made to last. I have
> > > repaired more of these things than I care to count. Seams rip and/or
> > > separate they are not made for anyone with boobs period. And if you
are
> > > a plus size. Forget it. I love Victoria's Secret as an example...any
bra
> > > on the planet will fit me at a 38C or at most 38D. Will either VS or
> > > FOH? No. I have to buy a 44D or LARGER  do you know what that does to
my
> > > fragile psyche??
> > >
> > > Bice
> > > =============================
> > > On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
> > > http://my.lulu.com/kristalori
> > > Elizabethan Ladies Calendar
> > > Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
> > > www.swapking.com/hats
> > > =============================
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
> > > To: "H-Costume@Indra. Com" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > > Sent: January 29, 2004 8:28 AM
> > > Subject: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
> > >
> > >
> > > Sorry for the cross-posts folks....Here is an intersting 'trend' at
> > > Fredererick's of Hollywood.   Neither of these two corsets have cups
and
> > > are listed as fitting sizes 32 to 44!  Notice that the breasts are
> > > starting to flatten in this model.....hmmm, one is even called the
> > > Renaisance
> > > corset...(must be the curved neckline...can't be that they have a
> > > clue-sorry NOI to anyonw who works for them!)
> > > I bet on someone like myself who does not have implants,  that I would
> > > flatten out quite nicely.  They aren't really that expensive...must
lace
> > > up the back?
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >
> >
> > Ches
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 10
> Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 13:28:11 EST
> From: AlbertCat@aol.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain
> Costumes
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Message-ID: <53.4187af9.2d4aaabb@aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>
> In a message dated 1/29/2004 1:10:33 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> kat@grendal.rain.com writes:
>
> > There are also people out there who
> > still think that the south should secede from the rest of the US.
> >
>
> But not many. I don't live in the "deep" South but I do live in NC and
there
> are very very few who actually obsess over it. Those of us interested in
> history [via clothes...and not] spend way more time on the Civil War than
most
> people. That stereotype "Forget, Hell" type is not that prevalent. Even a
lot of
> those who say they are that type, aren't. It's just so cute.....
>
> NOT!
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 11
> Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 13:16:44 -0500
> From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain
> Costumes
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <BAY1-DAV32kBXTW1xuW0001a259@hotmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
>
> And an unlimited number of northerners who would let 'em.
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <kat@grendal.rain.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: January 29, 2004 1:09 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain
Costumes
>
>
> >
> > >  yes, some STILL think of it that way. My grandmother
> > > in Texas was one. And she was only an infant when the
> > > war ended.
> >
> > And it's not just the isolated people who think this way. It's a
> > "Deep South" cultural thing. There are also people out there who
> > still think that the south should secede from the rest of the US.
> >
> > Kat
> > <kat@redtrollforge.com>
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 12
> Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 11:51:37 -0700
> From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <40195639.1060407@in-tch.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
>
> I'd imagine the Spandex in the fabric is what makes the "fit" possible
> without cups, although I betcha it'd be less effective, and perhaps even
> uncomfortable for those with a larger cup size.
> The Renaissance corset looks like it wants to go under "wench"
> garb....you could probably get the girls where you wanted, but the rest
> of the silhouette still wouldn't look right.
> If I still wore styles requiring corsetry, I'd want linen, I think, and
> whatever boning or other stiffening was appropriate.  But then, for me
> it's clothing, and not some fantasy thing for fun with a partner or
> under a modern costume.
> --sue, who's never been big on the floofy girl stuff.....
>
> Saragrace T. Knauf wrote:
> > Sorry for the cross-posts folks....Here is an intersting 'trend' at
> > Fredererick's of Hollywood.   Neither of these two corsets have cups and
are
> > listed as fitting sizes 32 to 44!  Notice that the breasts are starting
to
> > flatten in this model.....hmmm, one is even called the Renaisance
> > corset...(must be the curved neckline...can't be that they have a
clue-sorry
> > NOI to anyonw who works for them!)
> > I bet on someone like myself who does not have implants,  that I would
> > flatten out quite nicely.  They aren't really that expensive...must lace
up
> > the back?
> >
> >
> >
> > http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002
> >
<http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002&category%5
> > Fname=Corsets-All&product%5Fid=51245>
> > &category%5Fname=Corsets-All&product%5Fid=51245
> >
> > http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002
> >
<http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002&category%5
> > Fname=Bridal%2DCorset&product%5Fid=50640>
> > &category%5Fname=Bridal%2DCorset&product%5Fid=50640
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> End of h-costume Digest, Vol 3, Issue 67
> ****************************************
>

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jan 29 17:01:33 2004
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	<002601c3e6aa$084ae260$9865fea9@VAIO>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 15:41:08 -0600
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Status: RO

Try the curvy, higher neckline stays of the early-mid 18thc--much easier to
get things to stay where you want 'em. With a slight curve inwards below the
bust (to keep 'em up) you no longer have to push the bust itself in as far,
which means they no longer get pushed up as far but still get the same
amount of support. In general, the corsets between c1600 and the mid-late
18th century corset are a lot curvier than most think--the whole conical
effect is very deceptive, and a too-conical shape is not accurate; if you
can lay your corset out perfectly flat, it's cut wrong =}.  (If anyone's
interested in my effigy corset graphing project--it's far curvier than even
I thought it would be--email me off-list and expect a bit of delay as life
is very hectic atm).

-E

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alexia S. Jacobs" <asj2001@columbia.edu>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2004 2:54 PM
Subject: [h-cost] RE: Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?


I have found, at least with my eighteenth century stays, that cupless
corsets tend to push the breasts up enormously--in fact more than I would
often like them to.  The 18th century ideal was not to appear to have huge
breasts.  They were meant to rise above the neckline but not too much.  I
read somewhere that the tendency was to tuck the breasts down and outwards
to achieve this, but mine eventually just rise again.  Any suggestions?
Alexia

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
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I'm actually pretty capable of making my own <g>, I'm just playing 
around in non-corseted costuming areas these days.  Someday, I'd like to 
do one 18th c. outfit (just for fun....don't have anywhere to wear it), 
and I'd do one of those half-boned corsets.  I'd probably use fake 
whalebone for the bones.  My elizabethan corsets/bodys used metal 
boning, and it definitely worked, but was really heavy.  I think it'd be 
fun to experiment with other materials, though, like fake whalebone, or 
hemp cording, or reeds.
--sue

Bice d'Este wrote:

> For a decent corset you want metal bones coutil or duck fabric and a lining
> that won't scratch or make you sweat like a pig not to be inelegant over
> it.There are any number of corsitiers out there who can get this for you in
> any style you want.


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From: kat@grendal.rain.com
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 14:38:14 -0800
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bra sizes
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> How are bra sizes supposed to work anyway?  Is the number supposed to
> be underbust measurement?  Is it just a sizing scale?  I am inclined
> to think it is rather arbitrary as I usually wear a 32/34 but my
> underbust measurement is 30 and my bust measurement is 36.  (so is it
> the average of the two?)  When people size me they generally take my
> bust measurement, but doesn't that tend to vary with cup size? 

Supposedly, the bra band size is the undercup measurement plus 5", 
rounding up to the nearest even number. The cup size is determined by 
the difference between the bust measurement and the band size. Of 
course, I'm now blocking on what each cup size is for sure, but I 
think it is 1"=A, 2"=B, 3"=C, 4"=D, 5"=DD, etc.

The problem is that not all bras fit exactly the same. Some brands 
are wayyyyy off. Some styles fit better than others. And, of course, 
there is the different way each person's breasts are shaped and their 
texture. Some people carry most of their breast in the very front, 
others have significant amounts of tissue off to the side (called 
"axillary lobe". Others have very perky breasts with most of the 
tissue above the nipple and others the opposite with most of the 
tissue drooping below the nipple. Some people have squishy malleable 
breasts, while others have dense immobile breasts.

All of this plays into what works best in terms of bra structure.

The luckiest people are the ones who wear size 34-38 B-D. 34-36 As 
have it pretty good too. There is a much greater selection for those 
people than the ones who have smaller or larger band sizes or whose 
cup sizes are larger than Ds. They can walk into just about every 
store and find something pretty that fits them.

For the others, their best bet is VS or Nordstroms, or on-line such 
as herroom.com, title9sports.com, and bravissimo.com.

Often stores will try to put you in very odd sizing unless (like 
Nordstrom's people) they really know how to do the measurements 
properly. I can't tell you how long I went braless because no one 
could find a bra I was comfortable in. (Well, except for a company 
called Figurenes which did the measurements properly but they only 
had one style and it was like a maternity bra!)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jan 29 17:46:25 2004
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From: "Manly Summerfield" <muirgheal@charter.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <200401291901.i0TJ1H6Z031251@net.indra.com>
	<002201c3e6a8$c18f15e0$9865fea9@VAIO>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bra sizes
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 17:20:40 -0500
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Status: RO

I read up on this recently as I have lost a fair amount of weight and needed
all new stuff, including corsets.
The lastest I have seen is that for the underbust measurement, you actually
need to measure ABOVE the bust. Under your arms but high up on your chest. I
wear a 32/34 underbust as well but my real measurement is 29. A 29 bra would
be way to small. When I did the measurement the way it said (what ever IT
was that I read this in .. who knows. Maybe http://barenecesities.com) I
came out at about 33. which makes way more since.

I hope that helps.

Muirgheal
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alexia S. Jacobs" <asj2001@columbia.edu>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2004 3:44 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Bra sizes


> How are bra sizes supposed to work anyway?  Is the number supposed to be
> underbust measurement?  Is it just a sizing scale?  I am inclined to think
> it is rather arbitrary as I usually wear a 32/34 but my underbust
> measurement is 30 and my bust measurement is 36.  (so is it the average of
> the two?)  When people size me they generally take my bust measurement,
but
> doesn't that tend to vary with cup size?  The whole thing seems
ridiculous.
> Strapless bras are the worst to find.  When they are actually tight enough
> to stay up they make my back lumpy.  (maybe I should try a longline one?)
I
> generally end up with the saleswoman trying several sizes on me and
prodding
> my breasts to make them sit right in them.  By the end I become
disoriented
> and lose all judgment as to what fits me and what doesn't.   Sorry for the
> complaining.  Off to buy a new strapless bra now!  I wonder what size I
will
> be this time. . .
> Alexia
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <h-costume-request@indra.com>
> To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
> Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2004 2:01 PM
> Subject: h-costume Digest, Vol 3, Issue 67
>
>
> > Send h-costume mailing list submissions to
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >
> > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> > h-costume-request@mail.indra.com
> >
> > You can reach the person managing the list at
> > h-costume-owner@mail.indra.com
> >
> > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> > than "Re: Contents of h-costume digest..."
> >
> >
> > Today's Topics:
> >
> >    1. Re: "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain Costumes
> >       (Bice d'Este)
> >    2. Re: "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain Costumes
> >       (AlbertCat@aol.com)
> >    3. Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks? (Saragrace T. Knauf)
> >    4. Re: "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain Costumes
> >       (Bice d'Este)
> >    5. Re: Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks? (Bice d'Este)
> >    6. RE: Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
> >       (Saragrace T. Knauf)
> >    7. Re: Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
> >       (Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio)
> >    8. Re: "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain Costumes
> >       (kat@grendal.rain.com)
> >    9. Re: Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks? (Bice d'Este)
> >   10. Re: "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain Costumes
> >       (AlbertCat@aol.com)
> >   11. Re: "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain Costumes
> >       (Bice d'Este)
> >   12. Re: Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks? (Sue Clemenger)
> >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 1
> > Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 10:56:24 -0500
> > From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain
> > Costumes
> > To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Message-ID: <BAY1-DAV69rRnPB2yOU0001a421@hotmail.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> >
> > Well in this case it was teens of my own age (I was born in '72) who had
> > always heard it reffered to as such. It was that or "Dreadful Conflict"
> > =============================
> > On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
> > http://my.lulu.com/kristalori
> > Elizabethan Ladies Calendar
> > Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
> > www.swapking.com/hats
> > =============================
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Catalina Saravia Quicedo" <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>
> > To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: January 29, 2004 10:19 AM
> > Subject: [h-cost] "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain Costumes
> >
> >
> > > yes, some STILL think of it that way. My grandmother
> > > in Texas was one. And she was only an infant when the
> > > war ended.
> > >
> > > =====
> > > Seńora Catalina
> > > Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ___________________________________________________________
> > > BT Yahoo! Broadband - Free modem offer, sign up online today and save
> Ł80
> > http://btyahoo.yahoo.co.uk
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 2
> > Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 11:37:27 EST
> > From: AlbertCat@aol.com
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain
> > Costumes
> > To: h-costume@indra.com
> > Message-ID: <da.23559d5.2d4a90c7@aol.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
> >
> > In a message dated 1/29/2004 11:14:47 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> > wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com writes:
> >
> > > It was that or "Dreadful Conflict"
> > >
> >
> > I've always preferred "The Late Unpleasantness".
> >
> > [I heard a lady in Charleston refer to it this way....like nothing
> unpleasant
> > has happened since! Of course she was putting on her Southern Belle
act.]
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 3
> > Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 06:28:25 -0700
> > From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
> > Subject: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
> > To: "H-Costume@Indra. Com" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Message-ID: <001e01c3e66b$c6a5ce30$6501a8c0@SG01>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
> >
> > Sorry for the cross-posts folks....Here is an intersting 'trend' at
> > Fredererick's of Hollywood.   Neither of these two corsets have cups and
> are
> > listed as fitting sizes 32 to 44!  Notice that the breasts are starting
to
> > flatten in this model.....hmmm, one is even called the Renaisance
> > corset...(must be the curved neckline...can't be that they have a
> clue-sorry
> > NOI to anyonw who works for them!)
> > I bet on someone like myself who does not have implants,  that I would
> > flatten out quite nicely.  They aren't really that expensive...must lace
> up
> > the back?
> >
> >
> >
> > http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002
> >
>
<http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002&category%5
> > Fname=Corsets-All&product%5Fid=51245>
> > &category%5Fname=Corsets-All&product%5Fid=51245
> >
> > http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002
> >
>
<http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002&category%5
> > Fname=Bridal%2DCorset&product%5Fid=50640>
> > &category%5Fname=Bridal%2DCorset&product%5Fid=50640
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 4
> > Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 11:46:12 -0500
> > From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain
> > Costumes
> > To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Message-ID: <BAY1-DAV41QOWl7hFR20000e667@hotmail.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> >
> > Heh....been a while since I'd heard that one. That one seems to be a
lower
> > countries term I've noticed. Seems to come from the Carolina's and that
> > area.
> > =============================
> > On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
> > http://my.lulu.com/kristalori
> > Elizabethan Ladies Calendar
> > Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
> > www.swapking.com/hats
> > =============================
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
> > To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: January 29, 2004 11:37 AM
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain
> Costumes
> >
> >
> > > In a message dated 1/29/2004 11:14:47 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> > > wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com writes:
> > >
> > > > It was that or "Dreadful Conflict"
> > > >
> > >
> > > I've always preferred "The Late Unpleasantness".
> > >
> > > [I heard a lady in Charleston refer to it this way....like nothing
> > unpleasant
> > > has happened since! Of course she was putting on her Southern Belle
> act.]
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 5
> > Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 11:57:59 -0500
> > From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
> > To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Message-ID: <BAY1-DAV11UeM8bBbBL00010727@hotmail.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> >
> > The trouble with FOH corsets is they are not made to last. I have
repaired
> > more of these things than I care to count. Seams rip and/or  separate
they
> > are not made for anyone with boobs period. And if you are a plus size.
> > Forget it. I love Victoria's Secret as an example...any bra on the
planet
> > will fit me at a 38C or at most 38D. Will either VS or FOH? No. I have
to
> > buy a 44D or LARGER  do you know what that does to my fragile psyche??
> >
> > Bice
> > =============================
> > On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
> > http://my.lulu.com/kristalori
> > Elizabethan Ladies Calendar
> > Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
> > www.swapking.com/hats
> > =============================
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
> > To: "H-Costume@Indra. Com" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: January 29, 2004 8:28 AM
> > Subject: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
> >
> >
> > Sorry for the cross-posts folks....Here is an intersting 'trend' at
> > Fredererick's of Hollywood.   Neither of these two corsets have cups and
> are
> > listed as fitting sizes 32 to 44!  Notice that the breasts are starting
to
> > flatten in this model.....hmmm, one is even called the Renaisance
> > corset...(must be the curved neckline...can't be that they have a
> clue-sorry
> > NOI to anyonw who works for them!)
> > I bet on someone like myself who does not have implants,  that I would
> > flatten out quite nicely.  They aren't really that expensive...must lace
> up
> > the back?
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 6
> > Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 09:27:05 -0700
> > From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
> > Subject: [h-cost] RE: Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
> > To: "'Saragrace T. Knauf'" <saragrace@earthlink.net>,
> > "H-Costume@Indra. Com" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Message-ID: <000c01c3e684$bbfedee0$6501a8c0@SG01>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> >
> > I was having difficulty sending this file with the links.  I wanted to
try
> > to send it w/o them.  If it reaches the sites, I will try again with the
> > links.
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Saragrace T. Knauf [mailto:saragrace@earthlink.net]
> > Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2004 6:28 AM
> > To: H-Costume@Indra. Com (h-costume@indra.com)
> > Subject: Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
> >
> >
> > Sorry for the cross-posts folks....Here is an intersting 'trend' at
> > Fredererick's of Hollywood.   Neither of these two corsets have cups and
> are
> > listed as fitting sizes 32 to 44!  Notice that the breasts are starting
to
> > flatten in this model.....hmmm, one is even called the Renaisance
> > corset...(must be the curved neckline...can't be that they have a
> clue-sorry
> > NOI to anyonw who works for them!)
> > I bet on someone like myself who does not have implants,  that I would
> > flatten out quite nicely.  They aren't really that expensive...must lace
> up
> > the back?
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 7
> > Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 11:45:54 -0600 (CST)
> > From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
> > To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Message-ID: <38500.198.134.51.13.1075398354.squirrel@webmail.io.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
> >
> > Hmmmm ... Bice and Fragile in the same sentence .... girl, you know how
to
> > make me smile confusedly. ;)
> >
> > Love you honey!
> >
> > For me, since I stopped breast feeding, VS fits nicely at a 38c. While I
> > was slimming down from breast feeding I was at a 40d. Unfortunately I
> > chose underwire so while it was an absolute fit, it was not comfortable.
I
> > stuck it out cause without the wire I bounced with every step, bouncing
> > hurt. Wires kept the bounce down to nothing, no pain but uncomfortable.
> >
> > What I like is that they are big on having 4 hooks and eyes on the
closure
> > all the way down to a size 36c, all other makers have 2. Four keeps my
> > rolls of fat from folding the side and back part.
> >
> > My FOH corset of 5 years is just now starting to pull at the decorative
> > part of the fabric seams but not the foundation.
> >
> > My recommendation is that if anyone gets the new ones you get the cotton
> > ones and then reinforce where the seams are with seam tape laid flat
> > against it and stitch down on either side about a quarter of an inch
away
> > from the seam. Do this on the inside. This will help it last longer. I
> > would stay away from the satin ones. Pretty but not worth more than a
> > couple of sexy evenings with your partner of choice.
> >
> > I got two cotton ones a while back and niether one of them is showing
any
> > signs of wear at the seams. I got lucky I think. Wish they still had
that
> > one I would order two more and put them in storage.
> >
> >
> > Chiara
> >
> > Bice dEste said:
> > > The trouble with FOH corsets is they are not made to last. I have
> > > repaired more of these things than I care to count. Seams rip and/or
> > > separate they are not made for anyone with boobs period. And if you
are
> > > a plus size. Forget it. I love Victoria's Secret as an example...any
bra
> > > on the planet will fit me at a 38C or at most 38D. Will either VS or
> > > FOH? No. I have to buy a 44D or LARGER  do you know what that does to
my
> > > fragile psyche??
> > >
> > > Bice
> > > =============================
> > > On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
> > > http://my.lulu.com/kristalori
> > > Elizabethan Ladies Calendar
> > > Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
> > > www.swapking.com/hats
> > > =============================
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
> > > To: "H-Costume@Indra. Com" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > > Sent: January 29, 2004 8:28 AM
> > > Subject: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
> > >
> > >
> > > Sorry for the cross-posts folks....Here is an intersting 'trend' at
> > > Fredererick's of Hollywood.   Neither of these two corsets have cups
and
> > > are listed as fitting sizes 32 to 44!  Notice that the breasts are
> > > starting to flatten in this model.....hmmm, one is even called the
> > > Renaisance
> > > corset...(must be the curved neckline...can't be that they have a
> > > clue-sorry NOI to anyonw who works for them!)
> > > I bet on someone like myself who does not have implants,  that I would
> > > flatten out quite nicely.  They aren't really that expensive...must
lace
> > > up the back?
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >
> >
> > Ches
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 8
> > Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 10:09:30 -0800
> > From: kat@grendal.rain.com
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain
> > Costumes
> > To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Message-ID: <4018DBDA.23054.122DFCF5@localhost>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
> >
> >
> > >  yes, some STILL think of it that way. My grandmother
> > > in Texas was one. And she was only an infant when the
> > > war ended.
> >
> > And it's not just the isolated people who think this way. It's a
> > "Deep South" cultural thing. There are also people out there who
> > still think that the south should secede from the rest of the US.
> >
> > Kat
> > <kat@redtrollforge.com>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 9
> > Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 13:10:16 -0500
> > From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
> > To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Message-ID: <BAY1-DAV12N3FtYaCbG0000e22e@hotmail.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> >
> > Yeah well...it's loosing the wieght. I loose so far then stop. Facing a
> > stomach surgery isn't fun when they say it's gotta come off it's gotta.
> And
> > when you have a bustline that is impressive by any guidelines (I had a
> > reduction when I was 19 so they are still high up there) My new VS was a
> two
> > hook was so pretty I had to have it. When I got it and realized that
there
> > was no way on gods green earth that this "38C" was going around me I
> cried.
> > I then ran up to ebay and grabbed two extensions. I WILL wear this
> > thing.Sexy undies are impossible in a plus size.And then when they don't
> fit
> > even after this is what size you've worn for years...I estimated that
> > according to VS I'd need at least a 48C/D and that sucks.
> >
> > B~
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
> > To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: January 29, 2004 12:45 PM
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
> >
> >
> > > Hmmmm ... Bice and Fragile in the same sentence .... girl, you know
how
> to
> > > make me smile confusedly. ;)
> > >
> > > Love you honey!
> > >
> > > For me, since I stopped breast feeding, VS fits nicely at a 38c. While
I
> > > was slimming down from breast feeding I was at a 40d. Unfortunately I
> > > chose underwire so while it was an absolute fit, it was not
comfortable.
> I
> > > stuck it out cause without the wire I bounced with every step,
bouncing
> > > hurt. Wires kept the bounce down to nothing, no pain but
uncomfortable.
> > >
> > > What I like is that they are big on having 4 hooks and eyes on the
> closure
> > > all the way down to a size 36c, all other makers have 2. Four keeps my
> > > rolls of fat from folding the side and back part.
> > >
> > > My FOH corset of 5 years is just now starting to pull at the
decorative
> > > part of the fabric seams but not the foundation.
> > >
> > > My recommendation is that if anyone gets the new ones you get the
cotton
> > > ones and then reinforce where the seams are with seam tape laid flat
> > > against it and stitch down on either side about a quarter of an inch
> away
> > > from the seam. Do this on the inside. This will help it last longer. I
> > > would stay away from the satin ones. Pretty but not worth more than a
> > > couple of sexy evenings with your partner of choice.
> > >
> > > I got two cotton ones a while back and niether one of them is showing
> any
> > > signs of wear at the seams. I got lucky I think. Wish they still had
> that
> > > one I would order two more and put them in storage.
> > >
> > >
> > > Chiara
> > >
> > > Bice dEste said:
> > > > The trouble with FOH corsets is they are not made to last. I have
> > > > repaired more of these things than I care to count. Seams rip and/or
> > > > separate they are not made for anyone with boobs period. And if you
> are
> > > > a plus size. Forget it. I love Victoria's Secret as an example...any
> bra
> > > > on the planet will fit me at a 38C or at most 38D. Will either VS or
> > > > FOH? No. I have to buy a 44D or LARGER  do you know what that does
to
> my
> > > > fragile psyche??
> > > >
> > > > Bice
> > > > =============================
> > > > On Ebay http://snipurl.com/3csb
> > > > http://my.lulu.com/kristalori
> > > > Elizabethan Ladies Calendar
> > > > Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
> > > > www.swapking.com/hats
> > > > =============================
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
> > > > To: "H-Costume@Indra. Com" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > > > Sent: January 29, 2004 8:28 AM
> > > > Subject: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Sorry for the cross-posts folks....Here is an intersting 'trend' at
> > > > Fredererick's of Hollywood.   Neither of these two corsets have cups
> and
> > > > are listed as fitting sizes 32 to 44!  Notice that the breasts are
> > > > starting to flatten in this model.....hmmm, one is even called the
> > > > Renaisance
> > > > corset...(must be the curved neckline...can't be that they have a
> > > > clue-sorry NOI to anyonw who works for them!)
> > > > I bet on someone like myself who does not have implants,  that I
would
> > > > flatten out quite nicely.  They aren't really that expensive...must
> lace
> > > > up the back?
> > > >
> > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > h-costume mailing list
> > > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Ches
> > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 10
> > Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 13:28:11 EST
> > From: AlbertCat@aol.com
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain
> > Costumes
> > To: h-costume@indra.com
> > Message-ID: <53.4187af9.2d4aaabb@aol.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
> >
> > In a message dated 1/29/2004 1:10:33 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> > kat@grendal.rain.com writes:
> >
> > > There are also people out there who
> > > still think that the south should secede from the rest of the US.
> > >
> >
> > But not many. I don't live in the "deep" South but I do live in NC and
> there
> > are very very few who actually obsess over it. Those of us interested in
> > history [via clothes...and not] spend way more time on the Civil War
than
> most
> > people. That stereotype "Forget, Hell" type is not that prevalent. Even
a
> lot of
> > those who say they are that type, aren't. It's just so cute.....
> >
> > NOT!
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 11
> > Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 13:16:44 -0500
> > From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain
> > Costumes
> > To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Message-ID: <BAY1-DAV32kBXTW1xuW0001a259@hotmail.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> >
> >
> > And an unlimited number of northerners who would let 'em.
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: <kat@grendal.rain.com>
> > To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: January 29, 2004 1:09 PM
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] "war of northern agression" was Cold Mountain
> Costumes
> >
> >
> > >
> > > >  yes, some STILL think of it that way. My grandmother
> > > > in Texas was one. And she was only an infant when the
> > > > war ended.
> > >
> > > And it's not just the isolated people who think this way. It's a
> > > "Deep South" cultural thing. There are also people out there who
> > > still think that the south should secede from the rest of the US.
> > >
> > > Kat
> > > <kat@redtrollforge.com>
> > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 12
> > Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 11:51:37 -0700
> > From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?
> > To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Message-ID: <40195639.1060407@in-tch.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
> >
> > I'd imagine the Spandex in the fabric is what makes the "fit" possible
> > without cups, although I betcha it'd be less effective, and perhaps even
> > uncomfortable for those with a larger cup size.
> > The Renaissance corset looks like it wants to go under "wench"
> > garb....you could probably get the girls where you wanted, but the rest
> > of the silhouette still wouldn't look right.
> > If I still wore styles requiring corsetry, I'd want linen, I think, and
> > whatever boning or other stiffening was appropriate.  But then, for me
> > it's clothing, and not some fantasy thing for fun with a partner or
> > under a modern costume.
> > --sue, who's never been big on the floofy girl stuff.....
> >
> > Saragrace T. Knauf wrote:
> > > Sorry for the cross-posts folks....Here is an intersting 'trend' at
> > > Fredererick's of Hollywood.   Neither of these two corsets have cups
and
> are
> > > listed as fitting sizes 32 to 44!  Notice that the breasts are
starting
> to
> > > flatten in this model.....hmmm, one is even called the Renaisance
> > > corset...(must be the curved neckline...can't be that they have a
> clue-sorry
> > > NOI to anyonw who works for them!)
> > > I bet on someone like myself who does not have implants,  that I would
> > > flatten out quite nicely.  They aren't really that expensive...must
lace
> up
> > > the back?
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002
> > >
>
<http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002&category%5
> > > Fname=Corsets-All&product%5Fid=51245>
> > > &category%5Fname=Corsets-All&product%5Fid=51245
> > >
> > > http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002
> > >
>
<http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002&category%5
> > > Fname=Bridal%2DCorset&product%5Fid=50640>
> > > &category%5Fname=Bridal%2DCorset&product%5Fid=50640
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >
> > End of h-costume Digest, Vol 3, Issue 67
> > ****************************************
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jan 29 17:47:19 2004
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Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 13:56:56 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: "Self Sufficiency"; was Cold Mountain Costumes
In-Reply-To: <AMEILDGJMMAINBHCCPDCMEOMCHAA.r.carnegie@verizon.net>
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>      I really think this self sufficient American is a myth (with the
>exception of a few special communities some of which has already been
>mentioned.  I used to believe it, but as I have learned more about this
>country's history, and see the actual documents, a different story starts to
>come alive.  We have a lot of these myths.

OTOH, my mother's family was on a one-family farm in Montana from before 
WWI to some time in the 1920s, after my mother was born.  They considered 
themselves self-sufficient because they were living entirely off the 
products of that farm, directly or by trade or sale.  They raised 
white-face Hereford cows to sell.  There was a guy who would come around 
and turn people's cabbage into sauerkraut in trade for a share of the 
sauerkraut for himself.  They had a milk cow and a vegetable garden, and my 
grandmother canned lots of what they grew.  Self-sufficient meant, to them, 
like not being on welfare means to us.

Family farm funny:  They named their outhouse "Potsdam", after Kaiser 
Wilhelm's winter palace.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
             ////-@@\\\
            ((((   7 )))
             (((  <> ))))
                )   ((((((
           /----\   /---\))

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Subject: [h-cost] re: bra sizes
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Well, I guess my memory for measuring is correct. However, for more 
information try:
http://herroom.com/wmsbra.cfm

This explains it in a lot more detail. (Their method is essentially 
the same as mine, they just "round" differently.)

This chart also explains some of the discrepancies you find with bra 
sizing between the brands. ;)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] muffs
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Bjarne wrote:


>Has any of you tryed to make a muff?
>I have never tryed it, but i thoaght about using watting in the
interlinning. Would that >be all right?
>Any suggestions greately apreciated ;-)

Yes, indeed; I have a 'snake' and matching muff in grey rabbit fur
copying late 18th century early 19th century styles. I used wadding
which worked quite well, but I think chopped wool was used in period.
But it would certainly be appropriate for 18th century menswear,
though lining your waistcoat with grey squirrel would be even
spiffier...

best wishes
Stevie


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jan 29 18:14:26 2004
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <s0166b67.026@CSV6.derby.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] UK Brownie Guide Uniforms
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 23:13:20 -0000
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>Yes, she does. I believe the middle name was commonly used when the
sisters were young.

Really I've never heard that, but they were old before I was young, my Mum's
generation rather than mine :)

I have managed to gather a good bit of info on uniforms now but still
looking for those tiny details like badge pics etc !

Mel

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jan 29 18:27:28 2004
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Subject: [h-cost] 1920s Cabaret Costume--help!
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Hello, I just joined this list and I have a question.

I'm trying to make one of the cabaret outfits from the scene where Richard 
Gere sings "All I Care About is Love" from the movie "Chicago." 

Here's a picture, although not a very good one:
http://www.efanguide.com/~chicago/pictures/vogue_04.jpg

I'm trying to figure out what kind of fabric I'm going to use as the base for 
the hearts on the crotch, behind, and breasts. Also, betting the heart on the 
behind to lay properly may be a problem....

Does anyone have suggestions? 

Thank you!

--Aja
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Re: ? - "What Clothes Reveal" -book vs. exhibit
	(AnnBWass@aol.com)
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Ann, I'll be there that week-end, too.  My husband is driving me down from
Brooklyn as a Valentine gift.  Isn't that the BEST!  If this list hadn't
been discussing the show I would have missed it. And I'm actually READING
the book right now, not just gazing at the pictures.

Martha




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: "Self Sufficiency"; was Cold Mountain Costumes
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	<4.3.1.2.20040129134819.05a4f230@mail.frys.com>
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Really? (sue's ears perk up) Where in Montana?
--sue, montana native....

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

> OTOH, my mother's family was on a one-family farm in Montana from before 
> WWI to some time in the 1920s, after my mother was born.  They 
> considered themselves self-sufficient because they were living entirely 
> off the products of that farm, directly or by trade or sale.  They 
> raised white-face Hereford cows to sell.  There was a guy who would come 
> around and turn people's cabbage into sauerkraut in trade for a share of 
> the sauerkraut for himself.  They had a milk cow and a vegetable garden, 
> and my grandmother canned lots of what they grew.  Self-sufficient 
> meant, to them, like not being on welfare means to us.


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Greetings everyone,
   
     I'm also one of those well-endowed ladies (42DD) and 5'2", with 
some extra padding that I'm slowly loosing.  Although the breast size 
hardly changes.
      My GYN told me that that he recommends to his patients who are 
large breasted to wear exercise bras and definetly no underwires.  Well, 
I have been hunting for a nice looking soft cup bra because, sorry,  
exercise bras are not becoming and really do nothing for the figure.  I 
found that Lane Bryant's has some really nice looking and more 
importantly comfortable soft cup bras.  I have over the past several 
years have tried on all kinds of soft cups, and found that the ones I 
just bought from LB's over the holidays were the best.  And they come in 
a great assortment of colors and have the 4 sets of hooks that some of 
you are looking for.
    I understand that Lane Bryant may have a catalog now.  Has anyone 
ever heard that Lane Bryant's sister-store is Victoria's Secret.  One of 
the sales clerks at VS's mentioned it to me and that they ofter suggest 
to their larger customers to go to LB's.

Roscelin




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Subject: [h-cost] 
	Digests within digests! Argh!!!Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 3, Issue 69
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PLEASE, please, please trim off the extra text if you are replying to the digest,
and only include the text to which you are replying. this last digest contained two
digests quoted ENTIRE within it, and had only a few messages.

This has been a problem lately, and I'm no moderator-just someone who is trying to
read the digest in my limited free time.

M.
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bra sizes
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 21:15:13 -0500
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On Thursday 29 January 2004 03:44 pm, Alexia S. Jacobs wrote:
> How are bra sizes supposed to work anyway?  Is the number supposed to be
> underbust measurement?  Is it just a sizing scale?  I am inclined to think
> it is rather arbitrary as I usually wear a 32/34 but my underbust
> measurement is 30 and my bust measurement is 36.  (so is it the average of
> the two?)  

No.  However, cup size is based (or so I understand) on the ratio between the 
bust measurement and the underbust measurement, and it's easy enough to fall 
between cup sizes.  People who do may find that a bra for a smaller "bust" 
measurement fits them better.

>When people size me they generally take my bust measurement, but
> doesn't that tend to vary with cup size?  

What do you mean by "vary"?  It is possible, for example for three different 
women to measure 36 inches (going across the back and directly over the 
nipples).  But *cup* size is an attempt to measure how much mass the breasts 
actually have.  An "A" cup breast, which I have, tends to fit into the hand 
(even my small hands).  "Bs" are larger, and so on.  To use fruit metaphors, 
"A" breasts are strawberries, "Bs" and "Cs"more like apples or oranges, "Ds" 
grapefruit, "DDs" or "Es" watermelons, and I refuse to think about larger 
endowments.  :-)


>The whole thing seems ridiculous.
> Strapless bras are the worst to find.  When they are actually tight enough
> to stay up they make my back lumpy.  (maybe I should try a longline one?)

Sounds like a good idea to me, if keeping it up is a problem.  (This should 
eliminate the lumpiness, too.)

I usually can't use strapless bras either.  I'm a 32 A, and when the elastic 
on my bra begins to deteriorate, the bra just doesn't stay put any more.  My 
preferred solution:  buy the next smaller bust size, so that it's really 
tight.  More often than not, though, I go braless in the type of clothes 
where one would use a strapless bra; it's simpler and more comfortable, and I 
don't need much support to do the kinds of things one usually does in 
strapless garments.  :-)



>I
> generally end up with the saleswoman trying several sizes on me and
> prodding my breasts to make them sit right in them.  By the end I become
> disoriented and lose all judgment as to what fits me and what doesn't.  

If you don't know a saleswoman whose judgement you trust, I suspect you will 
only build judgment about what fits and what doesn't by buying a number of 
bras and seeing how they feel, and how they look, as you wear them over time.  

Good luck!



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Anything's within walking distance if you have the time." -Steven Wright

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Anything's within walking distance if you have the time." -Steven Wright
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From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Early 16th century Florentine gown 
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Hi all,

I've been working on a very early 16th century Florentine gown since
it combined two of my favourite factors; construction methods and fur.
And I have to say that whilst I am in awe of Jen Thompson's research
into this period I disagree almost entirely with her conclusions and
the methods of construction she adopted. For those unfamiliar with her
work the main page is:

http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/diary/diary.html

I decided to attempt a gown modelled on figures in Andrea del Sarto's
'Birth of the Virgin' 1513, part of a massive set of frescos in SS.
Annunziata, Florence. Jen has a reproduction at:

http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/florentine/flor6.html

There are not many full length figures easily accessible for this
period; many of the portraits are head and shoulders or upper body
only, but it is in my view impossible to judge how a full length dress
is constructed from a partial view of the top. And the Sarto fresco
figures are three quarters front and a side view, which expands the
information available to me. I'll summarise my methods and
conclusions.

I constructed the chemise or camisia from 3 large cylinders of fabric,
pleated at the neckline, with no underarm gussets, and had no
difficulties in movement. This is probably because I used a fine china
silk, chosen to imitate a very fine period linen unavailable today.
The characteristic puffs appeared as is by magic simply by pulling the
fabric up between gown and sleeve. I had no need to use the gathering
stitches which Jen had to use to create them.

The gown was made of a silk chosen as similar in weight and drape to a
very good quality dress weight wool; since this was a first attempt I
had no intention of sacrificing my unbelievably expensive Italian wool
satin:-) The skirt was a cylinder approximately five yards around
since I see nothing in the full length figures to suggest a skirt any
narrower, nor, indeed, any use of gores to provide flare. Jen relied
upon grave clothes buried some fifty years later as a skirt pattern,
but I see no method of achieving the fullness needed to lift the
skirts to drape in the way shown with such a skimpy use of material.
My skirt is approximately 12 inches, 30 cm too long for me, and this
was sufficient for the look, though my next attempt may be even
longer.

I used the pattern suggested by Jen for the bodice, though I do not
think the originals were cut with the shoulder strap at an angle.
Cutting the straps at an angle creates an invitation to stretch
hopelessly out of shape, and I think the most likely period method
would have been to cut the shoulder straps on the grain of the fabric
and then to shrink the outer curve so that the bodice line would still
remain smooth. I did not cord the bodice or wear any form of
undergarment other than the China silk chemise, and the interlining
used for the bodice was domette, a very soft natural fibre. I hadn't
lined it by the time I wore it last weekend; I wore it for 11 hours
and there were no wrinkles on the bodice to start with, and still no
wrinkles when I  took it off. I fitted the bodice carefully using
side/back seams, and lacing rings rather than eyelets since rings seem
to be more common than eyelets in the images. I therefore conclude
that there is no functional neccessity for cording or other forms of
stiffening to achieve this look. I suspect that it is a fundamental
error to assume that the look of an attached bodice depends on the
construction of the bodice and bodice undergarments; the weight and
construction of the skirt is also of paramount importance.

I also question the sleeves chosen by Jen to add to the gown; again
she has chosen an unusually small sleeve and used much later patterns
to supplement her draping experiments. The sleeves shown in Sarto and
the vast majority of other images are huge, and since some at least
were lined or trimmed with fur, the weight of material and lining
attached to the shoulder was much greater than Jen's choice suggests.
Given that the shoulders are intended to sit almost at the falling off
point, this is a fundamental requirement of any attempt to accurately
reproduce
the garment of the period. And it is of some significance to other
early 16th century gowns with apparently no method of holding up vast
sleeves.
I was also dubious at the suggestion that the large sleeves are bell
sleeves; they don't look like that to me. And rather than cut my
material, and regret it, I chose instead to make simply a cylinder of
the
silk fabric 4 and a half feet around (1.4 metres)  and the same
measurement in length
for each sleeve, though I seamed it only half of the way
up, to give the split sleeve look of the fresco and other images. I
attached lacing rings to the shoulder straps at the points shown on
the Sarto figures, ie. just behind the centre shoulder point, and made
a fascinating discovery. The bodice fits more securely on the
shoulders with the sleeves attached at those top back points than it
does without the sleeves at all.
I simply folded the sleeve fabric over my forearms in the Sarto
manner, picked up my skirts and was pleased to see that my first
attempt looked as I had hoped. I suspect that more fabric in the
sleeves and the skirt would improve it, but Teddy gave it the seal of
approval. And it will probably please me more once I have added fur...

best wishes
Stevie


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From: "Ashley Wells" <ashleyw@erols.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bra sizes
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 21:59:26 -0500
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Dear Kat and List -

Thanks for the quick and accurate summary of how to determine your
"correct" bra size, as well as the note that this may not always work,
although I have found it to be a great starting point - and usually it
is right.  If a style doesn't fit in my measured size, going up or down
in cup and/or band size usually won't get a fit, either - the whole
engineering of the particular bra style is just not suited to my body
type - this isn't usually as big an issue for the more common sizes, but
if you are on the fringes of the population, you will find more cut and
fitting issues - bras are designed and cut with a sort of "small to
medium" build in mind (see your explanation of individual breast shapes
and types), where slight skewing in terms of top fullness vs. bottom
fullness vs. outer fullness or inner fullness really won't make much of
a fit disaster.  The fitting for sizes further out from the "happy
medium" gets very interesting, and fewer styles will fit.

The band (number) measurement is meant to fit the bra to your back, or
ribcage size, and places the cups where they belong on the front of your
chest, rather than spreading under your arm pits, or way too squished in
the front with half your boobs spilling out the sides.  The cup (letter)
size corresponds to just how much of you is sitting out in front of your
ribcage/chest wall (this is the va-va-voom part), and is what keeps you
safely ensconced, rather than spilling out the top, bottom, or sides of
the cups.  

To complicate it a bit further, a "D" is not a "D" is not a "D" -
depending on the band size.  The spread and depth of the "D" cup "wires"
must relate to the band size (just how broad is your chest, to keep
those cups placed up front, instead of spreading under the arm pits, and
so on).  And the cut and size of the cup fabric for that "D" must also
relate to that band size (4' bigger than what?).  It really is complex,
but totally ingenious - and a good grasp of the concepts has helped me
fit custom stays, corsets, and bedlah bras, as well as a multitude of
bodices, for 5 centuries-worth of costuming on many bodies.  I also know
my correct (and well fitting) bra size.  Now, if only they would make
it....

Regards,

Ashley

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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Early 16th century Florentine gown 
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 19:35:52 -0700
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Stevie, were you intending to show us pictures of your gown?

Sg


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: "Self Sufficiency"; was Cold Mountain Costumes
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>      I really think this self sufficient American is a myth (with the
>exception of a few special communities some of which has already been
>mentioned.  I used to believe it, but as I have learned more about this
>country's history, and see the actual documents, a different story starts to
>come alive.  We have a lot of these myths.

OTOH, my mother's family was on a one-family farm in Montana from before 
WWI to some time in the 1920s, after my mother was born.  They considered 
themselves self-sufficient because they were living entirely off the 
products of that farm, directly or by trade or sale.  They raised 
white-face Hereford cows to sell.  There was a guy who would come around 
and turn people's cabbage into sauerkraut in trade for a share of the 
sauerkraut for himself.  They had a milk cow and a vegetable garden, and my 
grandmother canned lots of what they grew.  Self-sufficient meant, to them, 
like not being on welfare means to us.

Family farm funny:  They named their outhouse "Potsdam", after Kaiser 
Wilhelm's winter palace.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
             ////-@@\\\
            ((((   7 )))
             (((  <> ))))
                )   ((((((
           /----\   /---\))

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Jan 30 00:26:59 2004
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Subject: [h-cost] Directions to Philly Fabric Source
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Could someone be so kind as to repost or send to me the direction to the
Lo-Mar (sp?) fabric warehouse in North Philadelphia? I have search the
H-Costume archive and it is not there yet.  I have lost the message and all
I remember is to take I95 North  exit 25 north of downtown Philly.

Thank you time and trouble in advance.

Your humble and obediant servant,
David S Mallinak
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I would like to thank everyone for the information.  I have measured myself
correctly and determined that, yes, I actually am a 32D, so thank you as
well for the suggestions on where to find the rarer sizes!
Alexia

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Subject: [h-cost] Austrians Lay Claim To Tartan
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Alpine archaeologists claim they started wearing tartan 1,000 years before
the Scots:-

http://www.thisisnorthscotland.co.uk/displayNode.jsp?nodeId=84106&command=displayContent&sourceNode=83936&contentPK=8670555

Linda Walton.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Early 16th century Florentine gown 
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Sg wrote:



> Stevie, were you intending to show us pictures of your gown?
>

Yup! When, that is, they are developed and I grapple with the horrors
of actually setting up a web-page so that you can all see them:-)

best wishes
Stevie

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>> Yes, she does. I believe the middle name was commonly used when the
> sisters were young.
> 
> Really I've never heard that, but they were old before I was young, my Mum's
> generation rather than mine :)

Look at anything during WWII -- it's always "Princess Margaret Rose," which
is so pretty! I have a very odd little piano from that era. A little
silkscreened message on the keyboard says "As used by H.R.H. Princess Ingrid
of Sweden and As used by H.R.H. Princess Elizabeth and Princess Margaret
Rose of York." Of course I feel very elegant playing it!

Gail Finke

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My father was born in 1923. They raised hereford and
holstein cattle, kept hogs, mules, chickens and guinea
hens. My granmother and aunts milked the cows and made
butter and cheese. (I had some of the cheese when I
was a child. It wasn't great, but it was cheese.)
They had a vegetable garden, blackberry patches and a
pecan grove. They sold most of the pecans and beef
cattle for money for flour and sugar, and to pay for
electricity when they finally got it. The cash crop
was really cotton. That money paid for seed and yard
goods. The children got one pair of boots and store
bought dungarees (dress for the girls)for the start of
the school year. The rest of their clothes were home
made. Anyone else remember those floral print flour
sacks? They raised cane for molasses but lacked the
means to refine sugar.My great-grandmother apparently
spun cotton into thread, but my grandmother didn't.
Mules pulled the plows until they got a tractor in the
40's. The tractor was bought with money my father and
his brothers sent home from their army pay. I think
this was as self sufficient as it got in East Texas. 


=====
Seńora Catalina
Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit


	
	
		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 3, Issue 70
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 14:42:29 -0000
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>Look at anything during WWII -- it's always "Princess Margaret Rose,"

Yes with the Princess

Just refering to a Princess without her title threw me :) It could be any
Margaret Rose, I'm sure there were or are plenty ;)

Mel

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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
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Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 09:29:50 -0700
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Subject: [h-cost] FW: Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?-trying
	again with links
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-----Original Message-----
From: Saragrace T. Knauf [mailto:saragrace@earthlink.net] 
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2004 6:28 AM
To: H-Costume@Indra. Com (h-costume@indra.com)
Subject: Interesting 'Trend' in corsets at Fredericks?


Sorry for the cross-posts folks....Here is an intersting 'trend' at
Fredererick's of Hollywood.   Neither of these two corsets have cups and are
listed as fitting sizes 32 to 44!  Notice that the breasts are starting to
flatten in this model.....hmmm, one is even called the Renaisance
corset...(must be the curved neckline...can't be that they have a clue-sorry
NOI to anyonw who works for them!)
I bet on someone like myself who does not have implants,  that I would
flatten out quite nicely.  They aren't really that expensive...must lace up
the back?
 
 
 
http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002
<http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002&category%5
Fname=Corsets-All&product%5Fid=51245>
&category%5Fname=Corsets-All&product%5Fid=51245
 
http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002
<http://www.fredericks.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Holiday2002&category%5
Fname=Bridal%2DCorset&product%5Fid=50640>
&category%5Fname=Bridal%2DCorset&product%5Fid=50640
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Subject: [h-cost] Phoenix waverly
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Have any of you looked at the new waverly fabrics at fabric.com?  There are some winners there I think.  My mind is already abuzz with 18th C ideas. Sigh, and no time to sew.  Of course the stash is already beckoning me with "Me Next"!
Kathleen
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Phoenix waverly
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Kathleen wrote:
> Have any of you looked at the new waverly fabrics at fabric.com?  There are some winners there I think.  My mind is already abuzz with 18th C ideas. Sigh, and no time to sew.  Of course the stash is already beckoning me with "Me Next"!

Oh my goodness!  They're beautiful!  It's not even my period and I'm
dying to make something now!

What do you think of this stripe
(http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/wv-078.html) for a skirt, and
this (http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/wv-070.html) for a caraco
jacket, for a sort of middle class look?

Tempting, tempting... but I don't *do* 18th century!  I'd have nowhere
to wear it!  SOMEONE STOP ME NOW!

K.


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Oh my goodness!  They're beautiful!  It's not even my period and I'm
dying to make something now!

What do you think of this stripe
(http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/wv-078.html) for a skirt, and
this (http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/wv-070.html) for a caraco
jacket, for a sort of middle class look?
>>>>
Ooooooooo...
>>>>
Tempting, tempting... but I don't *do* 18th century!  I'd have nowhere
to wear it!  SOMEONE STOP ME NOW!
>>>>
Not a chance.  You're asking the wrong bunch, Kirrily!

We're doing an 18thc Tavern Night in Newtown, Pennsylvania 20 March.
Wanna come?

Kass

Reconstructing History Patterns
http://reconstructinghistory.com
Join Our Pattern Discussion List:
http://reconstructinghistory.com/mailman/listinfo/patterns_reconstructin
ghistory.com



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From: Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] DAR Museum calicos
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I have a friend that is searching for a calico print from the DAR Museum
collection of prints by P&B textiles.  It seems to be discontinued.  if
anyone can give me any leads on someplace that might still have it she
would be thrilled.  Thanks

Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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From: KATHRYN WOLTERS <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Phoenix waverly
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Sure wish Newton ,Penn was'nt so far away from Ventura,California:( That really sounds like fun---and 18th century is'nt even my time period either.As it is--that weekend we will be putting a Beowulf themed 3 day event up in the mountains of santa barbara.The local costumners have been 'boning up' on their Anglo- Saxon and Viking costumning research.While I've enjoyed it all very much --I'm itching to get back to some of  my later period(1560's) Italian and French gowns. On the other hand-I've always wanted to try my hand at an 18th century gown-----I re-viewed Les Laisons Dangereuses the other night) Sigh!! LOL--too many interesting  looking time periods---and too little time--!!
Albra

historian@reconstructinghistory.com wrote:
Oh my goodness! They're beautiful! It's not even my period and I'm
dying to make something now!

What do you think of this stripe
(http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/wv-078.html) for a skirt, and
this (http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/wv-070.html) for a caraco
jacket, for a sort of middle class look?
>>>>
Ooooooooo...
>>>>
Tempting, tempting... but I don't *do* 18th century! I'd have nowhere
to wear it! SOMEONE STOP ME NOW!
>>>>
Not a chance. You're asking the wrong bunch, Kirrily!

We're doing an 18thc Tavern Night in Newtown, Pennsylvania 20 March.
Wanna come?

Kass

Reconstructing History Patterns
http://reconstructinghistory.com
Join Our Pattern Discussion List:
http://reconstructinghistory.com/mailman/listinfo/patterns_reconstructin
ghistory.com



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Alexia wrote:

> How are bra sizes supposed to work anyway?  Is the number supposed to be
> underbust measurement?  Is it just a sizing scale?  I am inclined to think
> it is rather arbitrary as I usually wear a 32/34 but my underbust
> measurement is 30 and my bust measurement is 36.  (so is it the average of
> the two?)  When people size me they generally take my bust measurement, but
> doesn't that tend to vary with cup size?  The whole thing seems ridiculous.
> Strapless bras are the worst to find.  When they are actually tight enough
> to stay up they make my back lumpy.  (maybe I should try a longline one?) I
> generally end up with the saleswoman trying several sizes on me and prodding
> my breasts to make them sit right in them.  By the end I become disoriented
> and lose all judgment as to what fits me and what doesn't.   Sorry for the
> complaining.  Off to buy a new strapless bra now!  I wonder what size I will
> be this time. . .

The important thing is the difference between your bust and rib cage
measurement. A couple of months ago I had to get new bras because the style
I always bought was discontinued. NOTHING in the store fit in the size I
thought I wore, so I got the measurer to help me out. It turned out that I
needed a whole new size! I had lost some weight, so though my bust size was
the same, my rib cage was smaller. I needed a 34D instead of a 36C. Even
though I understood the ratio, I thought it was bizarre that I needed a
bigger cup size when I'd lost weight! But everything I tried on in that size
fit.

If you need to wear a strapless bra often, or for any length of time, I
recommend that you go to a bridal shop and forget regular department stores
or Victoria's Secret type places. They have strapless bras that are actually
comfortable, that actually work, and that don't fall down. They cost more,
but that's why. In my experience, "foundation" garments in regular stores
are just jokes. They don't do anything.

Gail Finke

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Bice wrote

> For a decent corset you want metal bones coutil or duck fabric and a lining
> that won't scratch or make you sweat like a pig not to be inelegant over
> it.There are any number of corsitiers out there who can get this for you in
> any style you want.
> 

Yes, but not for less than $60. I think it's great that people can try
something out for a fairly affordable price (there were many times in my
life when $50 or $60 wouldn't have been affordable) rather than choose
between a custom garment they're not sure they want or nothing at all.

Gail Finke

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Alexia you said something about the corset were pushing your breast two high.
You could prevent this, by altering your bustwidth and make it bigger!

Bjarne 





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
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> Alexia wrote:
> 
> > How are bra sizes supposed to work anyway?  Is the number supposed
> > to be underbust measurement?  Is it just a sizing scale?  I am
> > inclined to think it is rather arbitrary as I usually wear a 32/34
> > but my underbust measurement is 30 and my bust measurement is 36. 
> > (so is it the average of the two?)  When people size me they
> > generally take my bust measurement, but doesn't that tend to vary
> > with cup size?  The whole thing seems ridiculous. Strapless bras are
> > the worst to find.  When they are actually tight enough to stay up
> > they make my back lumpy.  (maybe I should try a longline one?) I
> > generally end up with the saleswoman trying several sizes on me and
>  I needed a
> 34D instead of a 36C. Even though I understood the ratio, I thought it
> was bizarre that I needed a bigger cup size when I'd lost weight! But
> everything I tried on in that size fit.

That's the part that many people have trouble imagining. I learned 
about it when I was going to Janzen Swimwear fabric outlet stores. 
They sold them and had them labeled "34D/36C/38B" for the underwires. 
The cup changes shape with the band size too. A D cup in a smaller 
band size has about the same "lift" as the D cup in the larger bands 
sizes. But the spread is much greater because the band/cup proportion 
is different. Tends to seem arcane until you have actually made a 
few. Then the "aha!" light seems to go off over one's head.

Chances are that there wasn't as much loss in the breast tissue 
itself as you had lost across your back. People put a surprising 
amount of "weight layering" across their backs. That would account 
for basically the same size breast tissue but smaller band size.

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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I would like to know who is on the list at pressent time.
Thankyou 
Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
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From: Michelle Plumb <mplumb@wideopenwest.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Phoenix waverly
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 15:15:55 -0500
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I wonder what could be done with these?

http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/dpsr-057.html
http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/dpsr-056.html

Here's the main page with the rest of the colors:
http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/fabric-home-decorating-just-arrived-dupioni-silk-stripe.html

Scrummy.
Michelle in arctic Michigan
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Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> I would like to know who is on the list at pressent time.

The link at the bottom of each message takes anyone to the info page, 
but it's supposed to let members see a list of who is on the list.  When 
I tried it, twice, it failed.  I've cc'd the administrator and maybe she 
can figure out what happened.

> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

cv
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On Fri, 30 Jan 2004, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> I would like to know who is on the list at pressent time.

Go here:

http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

At the bottom of the page, sign in and click "Visit Subscriber List."
You'll get a full list of email addresses. Right now we have 315 addresses
on regular delivery, and 220 on digest. Some people have more than one
address subscribed. (I have two, so I can read from my web-box when I
travel.)

--Robin

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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On Fri, 30 Jan 2004, Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> The link at the bottom of each message takes anyone to the info page,
> but it's supposed to let members see a list of who is on the list.  
> When I tried it, twice, it failed.  I've cc'd the administrator and
> maybe she can figure out what happened.

Funny. Worked for me just now. 

--Robin

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Mid-1880's through 1890's comes to mind...fun chevroning and other 
visual effects with directional shifting!!!

Theresa Eacker

Michelle Plumb wrote:
> I wonder what could be done with these?
> 
> http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/dpsr-057.html
> http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/dpsr-056.html
> 
> Here's the main page with the rest of the colors:
> http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/fabric-home-decorating-just-arrived-dupioni-silk-stripe.html
> 
> Scrummy.
> Michelle in arctic Michigan
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] who is here
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 17:56:25 -0800
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Hi Bjarne!

	I am here.  Regina Romsey, SCA member, founding member for the SCA Kingdom
of Drachenwald (then Principality of Drachenwald), and its 5th Princess.  I
now live in the SCA Kingdom of AnTir, and the US State of Oregon (that's
pronounced Or Y Gun, Or Y gone, or Or a gone :-).  I love your posts and the
pictures even though it isn't a period for me.  Creative genius is good for
the soul!

Regina Romsey

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
> Sent: Friday, January 30, 2004 12:42 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] who is here
>
>
> I would like to know who is on the list at pressent time.
> Thankyou
> Bjarne
>
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Directions to Philly Fabric Source
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David,

The store is actually Jo-Mar fabrics -- try searching the archives again for
"Philadelphia" -- I'm pretty sure there's a thread called something like
"Philadelphia - things to see" that has directions in a few posts.

- Kendra

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Catalina Saravia Quicedo wrote:
> 
> My father was born in 1923. (clipped) The rest of their clothes were home made. Anyone else remember those floral print flour
> sacks? They raised cane for molasses but lacked the means to refine sugar.My great-grandmother apparently
> spun cotton into thread, but my grandmother didn't.  Mules pulled the plows until they got a tractor in the
> 40's. The tractor was bought with money my father and his brothers sent home from their army pay. I think
> this was as self sufficient as it got in East Texas.

Your family sounds like a carbon of mine, only my grandfather (b. 1880)
also had a couple of cotton gins, a small lumber mill, and a bank in
Cass County, Texas.  By the 1920s he left the farm to the thirteen kids
to run--they plowed behind mules and helped pick the cotton with some
seasonal workers.  We've got pictures of my father (b.1922, #12 kid) and
his brothers in those overalls, barefoot, playing on cotton bales.  He
can remember the spinning wheel in the shed, which he helped to demolish
by playing with it, but he doesn't remember it ever being used.  The
sewing machine got a lot of use, though.

Last spring, one of the presentations at the regional ALHFAM meeting in
Baton Rouge was by a Ph.D. student at Louisiana State University.  She
spoke on clothing made from flour sacks.  Someone had donated their
collection with the storebought patterns to the clothing collection at
LSU.  The student collected oral and written history, analyzed the sacks
and their origin, compared the clothing to the patterns, and noted how
sack width affected dress design.

Vicki Betts
vbetts@gower.net
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Jan 31 00:38:04 2004
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Kendra Van Cleave wrote:

> The store is actually Jo-Mar fabrics -- try searching the archives again for
> "Philadelphia" -- I'm pretty sure there's a thread called something like
> "Philadelphia - things to see" that has directions in a few posts.

Thanks, I got only two of the 43 hits. They mention Jo-Mar (Jan 2003) but
don't give directions. Also I believe that the archive does not yet have
any 2004 material and the email I am looking Jan 14.

Your humble and obediant servant,
David S Mallinak
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Directions to Philly Fabric Source
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The address for Jo-Mar's factory building store is:
Jo-Mar Factory Inc 
3525 I St
Philadelphia, PA 19134  
Phone: (215) 634-5802 
You should be able to get driving directions from Yahoo!Maps or Mapquest.
There are a couple of satellite stores in the burbs as well.
              -Helen/Aidan



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Vicki Betts wrote:
> Last spring, one of the presentations at the regional ALHFAM meeting in
> Baton Rouge was by a Ph.D. student at Louisiana State University.  She
> spoke on clothing made from flour sacks

During the war, my mother's family kept chickens, and chicken feed also 
came in patterned fabrics which were made into blouses, etc, for 
everyday use.  My mother recalls her mother sending my grandfather back 
to the store to return a sack with a print she didn't like.

This was suburban Maine, more or less.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary 
safety deserve neither liberty nor safety. - B. Franklin, 1759
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Argh!  I mis-remembered.  It *was* chicken feed sack clothing that she
was researching.  I knew that printed cotton feed bags used for clothing
was common in the South from the Depression era on into the War (at
least), but I hadn't realized that it was also common that far North. 
The grad student didn't mention when it ended, or at least I assume it
ended.  All I see nowadays are 50 lb. paper bags.

Vicki Betts
vbetts@gower.net

Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> During the war, my mother's family kept chickens, and chicken feed also
> came in patterned fabrics which were made into blouses, etc, for
> everyday use.  My mother recalls her mother sending my grandfather back
> to the store to return a sack with a print she didn't like.
> 
> This was suburban Maine, more or less.
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Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 07:27:38 -0800
Subject: Re: [h-cost] who is here
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Greetings, Bjarne!

I'm Arlys o Gordon in the SCA, and live not too far from Regina in the
the Kingdom of An Tir. I'm a founding member of a branch west of
Portland, Oregon. I don't costume but do embroider some) (I'm a music
geek), but have learned a lot here and been inspired by many of the
things people do here. Love your work. 

Arlys


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Hello,
I have two aprons that my grandmother made from seed bags in the 1940s. 
  I wear the pretty red and white one when I cook Christmas dinner.  :D
Althea

On Saturday, January 31, 2004, at 06:58 AM, Vicki Betts wrote:

> Argh!  I mis-remembered.  It *was* chicken feed sack clothing that she
> was researching.  I knew that printed cotton feed bags used for 
> clothing
> was common in the South from the Depression era on into the War (at
> least), but I hadn't realized that it was also common that far North.
> The grad student didn't mention when it ended, or at least I assume it
> ended.  All I see nowadays are 50 lb. paper bags.
>
> Vicki Betts
> vbetts@gower.net
>
> Cynthia Virtue wrote:
>
>> During the war, my mother's family kept chickens, and chicken feed 
>> also
>> came in patterned fabrics which were made into blouses, etc, for
>> everyday use.  My mother recalls her mother sending my grandfather 
>> back
>> to the store to return a sack with a print she didn't like.
>>
>> This was suburban Maine, more or less.
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com
*** http://www.alfalfapress.com

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Jan 31 12:54:18 2004
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Status: RO

hello everyone,

I am Althea Turner, a graduate student at Oregon State studying "the 
historical and cultural aspects of the near environment" and minoring 
in anthropology.  My doctoral dissertation will be "Knightly Regalia: 
authenticity and invented tradition in the Society for Creative 
Anachronism"  *smiles*  My academic interests are early fiber 
technologies, gender issues as expressed in dress and just an all 
around general curiosity about why people wear what they do.

This summer, if the gods favor me, I will be traveling to Europe to 
study Merovingian textiles in France.  The Arnegunde textiles are being 
worked on and I would *really* like to see them.  I also plan to attend 
a conference on scientific analysis of archaeological textiles at the 
University of Southampton in the UK.  I'm still trying to figure out 
logistics and finances, especially finances.  lol  If anyone wants to 
sponsor a poor graduate student's research trip to Europe, please let 
me know.  *grin*

I also am a member of the SCA in the Summits of An Tir.  My society 
name is Signora Sofia Matriani della Tempesta, a retired courtesan 
living with my two surviving children in a villa outside of Venezia.  I 
now spend most of my time attending to my children's education and to 
writing my memoirs.  My poetry and verses, as poor and vain as they 
are, have found a patron and are published in small but handsome 
volumes.  I am the protege of the Viscountess Nadezhda Volynskiia of 
the Summits, and can often be found playing the pied piper at events.  
Hi, I'm Sofia, and I am a service junkie.  :D

I'm also a single mom to two very bright and active children, so all in 
all I keep fairly busy.

That's about it.


Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com
*** http://www.alfalfapress.com

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Vicki Betts wrote:

> Argh!  I mis-remembered.  It *was* chicken feed sack clothing that she
> was researching.  I knew that printed cotton feed bags used for clothing
> was common in the South from the Depression era on into the War (at
> least), but I hadn't realized that it was also common that far North. 
> The grad student didn't mention when it ended, or at least I assume it
> ended.  All I see nowadays are 50 lb. paper bags.

Printed feed sack cotton was still being made at least into the early 
60's. My mother, in western PA, tells of having feedsack underwear 
growing up on the farm there, and the baby quilt my grandmother made 
upon my birth contains feedsack prints.


Dawn



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Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 14:26:43 EST
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "Self Sufficiency"
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In a message dated 1/31/2004 12:30:45 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
althea@alfalfapress.com writes:
I knew that printed cotton feed bags used for 
> clothing
> was common in the South from the Depression era on into the War (at
> least), but I hadn't realized that it was also common that far North.
> The grad student didn't mention when it ended, or at least I assume it
> ended.  All I see nowadays are 50 lb. paper bags.
I read an article some time ago that the feed and/or flour companies (flour 
came in them, too) used the sacks as a marketing tool as they knew women were 
making things out of them.  It took 2 of the same pattern to make a dress, so a 
woman would either have to buy two bags at the same time, instead of one, or 
hope another one would still be around when she needed a second bag of the 
commodity.
Ann Wass
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Greetings, Bjarne!

    I'm Roscelin de Limoges in the SCA, also like Regina and Arlys in 
the Kingdom of AnTir.  In Troutdale, Oregon - which I believe is the 
Barony of Three Mountains.  My personna is a 14th C. French lady.
    Mundanely I'm a student in fine arts, probably concentrating on 
metals (I'm the lady who is wanting and trying to recreate a metal 
pomander) and possibly a minor in something doing with paper or making 
books.  I also do embroidery - petit point, Chinese silk embroidery, 
bead embroidery, and have been learning how to do flat silk embroidery 
from Arlys.  Unfortunately, since I am in school I have not had the time 
to work on my needlework.  I do have an interest in costuming, but again 
my strong interest is in making jewelry for mine and everyone else's 
costumes.
    I love you work, Bjarne.



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bra sizes
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The problem I've been having recently is trying to find a bra in 32A (most
styles are made in 32B or 34A at the smallest, and that's still too big for
me) that is NOT padded and that does NOT have an underwire. And that's not a
sports bra, because that flattens me way too much... As if everyone who is
small breasted has to be ashamed about it and try to hide it under some
padding...
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: self sufficiency
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I think the feed sack stories illustrate the confusion that all the earlier
posts generated. If by "self-sufficient" you mean a community that produces
ALL it needs, then making clothing out of feed sacks wouldn't qualify,
because the feed sacks come from outside the community. As someone noted,
the idea of self-sufficiency is pretty powerful in the USA, and quite
romanticized. If you ever read "Walden," you know how much Thoreau mooched
off his friends, and how much time he spent away from the pond! When I read
him as a young college student, I was thoroughly disgusted. Now, older and
wiser, I don't think he was as much a fraud as he was carried away with
himself.

Gail Finke

 

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Need help on medieval fabric terms
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A friend who is stranded without reference books asks for some help. I
have bits and pieces of answers, but none that I feel confident enough
about, or can source well enough. I'm much better with art than with
terminology! If anyone can shed light on any of this, please post or
email. Thanks.

1. Porpre / purpre / pupre :  these are variants for a term that is often
translated as purple, implying the color.  But, if I remember correctly,
it's usually a term for a fabric instead of a color (much like scarlet).  
Do you know what kind of fabric?  I'm thinking it's a kind of silk, but I
know the term is probably a specific kind.  Also, would you have a
reference (just one I can footnote--it can be a secondary source)  for it?

2. Would you also mind verifying that my understanding of the following
fabric terms is correct?

 -- sendal (cendal) = a kind of silk like our modern taffeta, often in a
red color
 -- paile = brocaded silk from Alexandria
 -- cislatons (siglaton) = gold brocade from the orient

3. Do you know what the following are?

 -- vert
 -- silk palis
 -- draps de grana (cloth of grana); could this be scarlet? [Robin adds: I
presume that's grain, or kermes, but I have no idea where I might have
picked that tidbit up.]

Thanks to anyone who can help.

--Robin


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Subject: [h-cost] Jomar stores website
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For those looking for info on where the JoMar stores are around 
Philadelphia, the website is:  http://www.jomarstores.com/  There's a 
page for the locations, and there are driving directions links on that 
page for each store.

BTW, if you're looking for linen, the Philadelphia store has apparently 
now mixed their linen in with the other fabrics ($2 tables?).  Had much 
better luck at the Lansdale store.... or would have if I didn't have a 
fear of dealing with dyes on linen... or didn't have as picky a 
personality (or didn't just get tired of looking after a while). (Person 
I went with the last week of December had much better luck)

-Elisabeth


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From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10401312122050.11020-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need help on medieval fabric terms
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 22:56:50 -0500
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The only one I can help with:
>  -- vert
Green, but it is usually used for the heraldic color. I don't know if it as
used to describe the real color too.
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bra sizes
Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2004 01:55:03 -0500
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On Saturday 31 January 2004 05:40 pm, Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:
> The problem I've been having recently is trying to find a bra in 32A (most
> styles are made in 32B or 34A at the smallest, and that's still too big for
> me) that is NOT padded and that does NOT have an underwire. And that's not
> a sports bra, because that flattens me way too much... As if everyone who
> is small breasted has to be ashamed about it and try to hide it under some
> padding...

I have several bras in 32A that are neither padded nor underwired.  I got them 
at my local department store.  I haven't had a lot of trouble finding 32A 
bras in a variety of models....but suspect this varies by locale.  Since you 
can't find such bras near you, you may want to look on the web.  Good luck.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Anything's within walking distance if you have the time." -Steven Wright
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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] who is here-how to tell who is on the list-my opinion
	about what is going on....
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 20:02:17 -0700
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Hi Bjarne, there is a link at the bottom of my email which will tell you how
to use a command to tell who is currently subscribed to the h-costume list.
Emphasis is on who is subscribed as opposed to who is participating on a
regular basis.  

I think you are seeing an absence of the usual folk, which I miss as well
(Drea, Margo, Robin, Teddy, etc)

This is where my opinion comes in:.  What I have found is that there are
people creating email groups on providers like Yahoo,  focused on their
particular area of interest.  {i.e.  I am currently interested in Northern
European costume in the 16th century and have co-created (with Michaela de
Bruce, the owner of the Frazzled Frau website:
http://frazzledfrau.glittersweet.com/  )
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/thefrazzledfrau

These websites offer areas to share files, (photos etc).  Also all of their
messages are archived.  This makes looking for pertinent messages very easy.
(Which for the average user is NOT easy on the Indra supported email lists)
I find myself more attracted to these sites because of these amenities and
the focus as mentioned above.  

I know for myself I find it increasingly difficult to convey costume
construction information without pictures.  I can load that to my personal
site, (http://www.saragrace.net/2A_Cost_by_sg.html), but the file sharing
capabilities are so accessible on the Yahoo groups, that it makes it very
easy.

Here is where you can find information about who is subscribed, but it will
not tell you who is participating on a regular basis:

http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/~fashion/h-costume.txt

VR Sg


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