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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] periods for pearls
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Hi,
Forgot to tell you, that if you are interrested, i could send you a picture of the choker.
Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
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otsisto wrote:
> Actually I was thinking of a different style of costume, later period than a
> houppelaude. I don't recall having seen houppelaudes with pearls. Doesn't
> mean that there wasn't just I have not come across them.

Sorry; I got two discussions conflated.  Right, I've never seen houps 
with all-over pearls either.   About the most they tend to have is one 
decorated sleeve.  One.  Delightfully silly.

(I believe when beading was used, it would be in actual shapes, and not 
just dots all over; something that seems to escape some embellishers in 
the SCA.)

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

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>>> jauncourt@verizon.net 28/02/04 20:04:59 >>> wrote... [snip]

>So, has anyone out there seen references to shawls or other
accessories 
>being used to carry baby in either Early Modern Europe or the
Colonies?

How about Rembrandt's "Beggars receiving alms at the door of a house" -
see http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/r/rembran/graphics/etching/index.html
?


Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] popular periods for pearls
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I would like to see that please.


 --- Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
wrote: > Hello Elizabeth.
> At the exhibition on Castle Rosenborg here in
> Copenhagen about the Queens Dresses, there  was a
> kind of Choker or what ever you would call it. A
> heavily beaded piece to cover the decolletage. It
> was a piece that Caroline Mathilde actually made
> herself, she was our queen in 1766.
> Many kinds of beads was used in this piece, multi
> coloured. I also noticed some long beads, like
> suction pipes.
> So it was used in 18th. century.
> 
> Bjarne 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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 http://www.amiperiodornot.com




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Catalina Saravia Quicedo wrote:

>  http://www.amiperiodornot.com

I read it too -- some of the comments are useful, but a great many are 
extremely harsh or plain ill-informed.  And then there are the folks who 
post naked women or men in bad quality chain mail.

But some of the images posted are really great, particularly the 
pre-1400s stuff, which is all too often ignored in the SCA (the 
Elizabethan and so on get more of the attention).

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

Vote early, vote often!
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Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 16:25:39 +0000 (GMT)
From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Catalina=20Saravia=20Quicedo?= <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for a painting
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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http://www.geocities.com/ailithmac/portraits.html

There are 2 portraits of Eleonora de Toldeo wearing
pearled partlets.



 --- Cyn Bucheger <cbucheger@paclp.com> wrote: > I
need to find a painting pretty quick that is
> similar to this one, in that
> the lady is wearing one of these pearled partlets. 
> The one in particular
> that I am looking for the lady is wearing a necklace
> of simple garnet beads
> with a large pendent.  I've made the partlet, and
> would like to have a
> necklace similar to the garnet one, but can't for
> the life of me remember
> what the pendent was or what it looked like.
> 
> Thanks for any help
> Cyn
> 
> http://cgfa.sunsite.dk/c/p-clouet5.htm
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

=====
Señora Catalina
Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit


	
	
		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] My guilty pleasure.
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Yeah sadly I'm boycotting AIPON until something can be done over the
flaming.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cynthia Virtue" <cvirtue+dated+1093709055.6fa5e7@thibault.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, March 01, 2004 11:05 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My guilty pleasure.


> Catalina Saravia Quicedo wrote:
>
> >  http://www.amiperiodornot.com
>
> I read it too -- some of the comments are useful, but a great many are
> extremely harsh or plain ill-informed.  And then there are the folks who
> post naked women or men in bad quality chain mail.
>
> But some of the images posted are really great, particularly the
> pre-1400s stuff, which is all too often ignored in the SCA (the
> Elizabethan and so on get more of the attention).
>
> -- 
> Cynthia Virtue and/or
> Cynthia du Pré Argent
>
> Vote early, vote often!
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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on 3/1/04 10:55 AM,Kate Bunting at h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:

> How about Rembrandt's "Beggars receiving alms at the door of a house" -
> see http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/r/rembran/graphics/etching/index.html
> ?
> 
That is an interesting sketch. The lady has strange, button-on oversleeves.
I've never seen anything like that before, but I don't look at that period
much. The baby looks adorable, but the fabric sling/backpack/whatever
doesn't actually seem to attach to the lady, whose bodice (as far as I can
tell) looks completely normal. No bulging, bunching,
knotted/tied/laced/buttoned sling. It looks to me as if Rembrandt didn't
want to draw the attaching part.

Gail Finke

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on 3/1/04 10:55 AM,Kate Bunting at h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:

> How about Rembrandt's "Beggars receiving alms at the door of a house" -
> see http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/r/rembran/graphics/etching/index.html
> ?
> 
That is an interesting sketch. The lady has strange, button-on oversleeves.
I've never seen anything like that before, but I don't look at that period
much. The baby looks adorable, but the fabric sling/backpack/whatever
doesn't actually seem to attach to the lady, whose bodice (as far as I can
tell) looks completely normal. No bulging, bunching,
knotted/tied/laced/buttoned sling. It looks to me as if Rembrandt didn't
want to draw the attaching part.

Gail Finke

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] My guilty pleasure.
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I thought there were a lot of very good looking outfits---and I also agree --that some of the comments seemed very harsh or ill -informed. The little ones dressed up were particularly charming!
Albra

Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue+dated+1093709055.6fa5e7@thibault.org> wrote:
Catalina Saravia Quicedo wrote:

> http://www.amiperiodornot.com

I read it too -- some of the comments are useful, but a great many are 
extremely harsh or plain ill-informed. And then there are the folks who 
post naked women or men in bad quality chain mail.

But some of the images posted are really great, particularly the 
pre-1400s stuff, which is all too often ignored in the SCA (the 
Elizabethan and so on get more of the attention).

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

Vote early, vote often!
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Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> Catalina Saravia Quicedo wrote:
> 
>>  http://www.amiperiodornot.com
> 
> 
> I read it too -- some of the comments are useful, but a great many are 
> extremely harsh or plain ill-informed.  And then there are the folks who 
> post naked women or men in bad quality chain mail.

I agree with that, and am not likely to post pics of anything of my own. 
  It's difficult to really judge authenticity of something from a flat 
pic, you can't see the fabric well at all, or how the layers work.

Despite the acidity of many of the comments, if you read them long 
enough you start to see trends. Outfits without hats or sleeves seems to 
be a big button-pusher. Mixing elements from different periods, or 
fanatsy elements is another, as is wrong/lack of accessories.


> 
> But some of the images posted are really great, particularly the 
> pre-1400s stuff, which is all too often ignored in the SCA (the 
> Elizabethan and so on get more of the attention).

Agree with that too. I do like to go cruise for ideas and to just see 
what other people are making and wearing. Even with the internet I 
sometimes feel very cut off from the rest of the costuming community.




Dawn



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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> wrote:
 > How about Rembrandt's "Beggars receiving alms at the door of a house"
 >- see
 >http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/r/rembran/graphics/etching/index.html

Thanks! this is wonderful. I fugured it was something so commonplace as 
to be considered uninteresting, and possibly something done only by the 
poor. This does help to bear that out.

M.

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I should clarify.  I was speaking about Starkey's television specials, 
not his books.   I'm sure others will be swift to disagree with me on 
this point as well, but hey.  That's my opinion and I'm sticking with 
it.  ;)

Sarah
http://www.modehistorique.com

On Sunday, February 29, 2004, at 07:33  PM, Catherine Olanich Raymond 
wrote:

> On Friday 27 February 2004 12:50 pm, kat@grendal.rain.com wrote:
>>> That's really what bugs me about Starkey.  He's very sensationalistic
>>> and he makes his subjects sound as though they were nothing more than
>>> sex-crazed drama queens.  I can understand wanting to "sex things up"
>>> for a modern audience, but to me, Starkey often crosses the line and
>>> winds up sounding like a salacious old man who thinks every woman 
>>> back
>>> in the Renaissance was solely concerned with what was going on 
>>> between
>>> her legs.  Either that or they're portrayed as airheads...
>>
>> Interesting. I just finished Starkey's 6 wives and it was the first
>> time I'd seen any of the queens (with the exception of K. Parr)
>> depicted as anything but stupid or airhead or sex maniacs.
>
> ?????  The only queen I've ever seen depicted as stupid *or* a sex 
> maniac was
> Catherine Howard--who arguably was both anyway.
>
> Either way, though, it sounds like Starkey's Six Wives is worth 
> reading.
>
> -- 
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>
> "Anything's within walking distance if you have the time." -Steven 
> Wright
> _______________________________________________
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>
>
_________________________________________________
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"Those who are willing to sacrifice their basic liberties to assure 
their security deserve neither..."

Benjamin Franklin


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I am the one with the wrinkled- 18 cent front.

In reading through the responses, and thinking out my alternatives, I'm beginning to think I have several issues going on.

One is that my present stays are front-and-back laced.  My old stays were back-only laced.  While the front and back laced are tremendously more wearable for me, in addition to being convenient and adjustable, more of me bulges out.  Even when I lace edge to edge in the front (Remember, I could
kindly be described a plump little woman)

All through this last season, I have been thinking BUSK? as a solution to the problem, but haven't gotten to actually making or buying one (the wonderful man from Wooded Hamlet who has ribbons and tapes now makes busks and they are reasonably priced as are all his goods)

Mia Dappert of HM 64th
In Charlotte, NC

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>   And there are so many different views about almost
> every > topic with regard to the Tudors, I think the only way to
> develop a really > balanced opinion, is to read 'em all! LOL
> 
> 
> That's usually what I end up doing with any historical area I become
> interested in--read as much of what's out there as I can get my hands
> on.  :-)

Amen to that!

But the ones I pay the most attention to are the ones which support 
their opinions with things like the Letters and Papers which were 
written at the same time as the actions were occurring (as opposed to 
those written 30 years later or those written by Victorians or other 
historians, which so many of the books seem to do.)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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>From: Hilary Davidson <hbgd103@soton.ac.uk>
>now that I'm with the program and have read the rest of yesterday's
>digest, sorry to double up on Marc's info! I'll go back to lurking in
>my fog of deadlines now....

Honestly, I think you posted before I did on this one, and since at any 
given time we never know who's lurking or not, it's a good idea to post 
anyway  -- I just want to know why THIS message (dated Feb 19th didn't show 
up in my digest until today (Mar 1).  These are the vagaries of email, I 
suppose.

Marc

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] My guilty pleasure.
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 12:22:33 -0600
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Is this a site that one needs to be a member to access?

De


Catalina Saravia Quicedo wrote:

>  http://www.amiperiodornot.com

-costume
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otsisto wrote:

> Is this a site that one needs to be a member to access?

Nope.

It is, however, on limited bandwidth, so if it's not loading for you, 
try again later.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

Vote early, vote often!
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In a message dated 3/1/2004 12:52:15 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
Ellen.Dappert@ncmail.net writes:

> (Remember, I could
> kindly be described a plump little woman)
> 

An asset when being corseted...IMHO.
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Subject: [h-cost] waists on ebay
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I have put up 5 beautifull waists on ebay.
Cordially,
Sue Shatto
401 Fairview Ave
Frederick, MD 21701
http:\\www.VictorianMillinery.com
301-694-8950

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] My guilty pleasure.
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i think everyone on the list visited it today because
its running really slow.


 --- Cynthia Virtue
<cvirtue+dated+1093717694.11be91@thibault.org> wrote:
> otsisto wrote:
> 
> > Is this a site that one needs to be a member to
> access?
> 
> Nope.
> 
> It is, however, on limited bandwidth, so if it's not
> loading for you, 
> try again later.
http://www.amiperiodornot.com

> 
> -- 
> Cynthia Virtue and/or
> Cynthia du Pré Argent
> 
>

=====
Señora Catalina
Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit


	
	
		
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Date: Mon, 01 Mar 2004 11:13:26 -0800
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My guilty pleasure.
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I'd be happy for slow; I've been trying off and on since 8:30 PST and still
can't get on.  I try to check it out once a month but it's been a few months
since I looked. Last time, my brother-in-law was voted best costume. That
was a big chuckle in the family.
LynnD

On 3/1/04 11:08 AM, "Catalina Saravia Quicedo" <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>
wrote:

> i think everyone on the list visited it today because
> its running really slow.
> 
> 
> --- Cynthia Virtue
> <cvirtue+dated+1093717694.11be91@thibault.org> wrote:
>> otsisto wrote:
>> 
>>> Is this a site that one needs to be a member to
>> access?
>> 
>> Nope.
>> 
>> It is, however, on limited bandwidth, so if it's not
>> loading for you,
>> try again later.
> http://www.amiperiodornot.com
> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> Cynthia Virtue and/or
>> Cynthia du Pré Argent
>> 
>> 
> 
> =====
> Señora Catalina
> Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___________________________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 01 Mar 2004 11:28:52 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] waists on ebay
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Where?

>I have put up 5 beautifull waists on ebay.
>Cordially,
>Sue Shatto
>401 Fairview Ave
>Frederick, MD 21701
>http:\\www.VictorianMillinery.com
>301-694-8950
>
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        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Mar  1 15:48:36 2004
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Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 20:45:41 -0000
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mid 18th c. busks and stomachers
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Status: RO

Hi Stevie,

>Indeed, but by definition a book published 50 years ago, before even
>the Kyoto Costume Institute existed, can hardly have reflected the
>holdings of that museum. Norah Waugh died in 1966, also long before
>the foundation of the KCI.

     I'm not sure what you mean here.  I was suggesting Corsets & Crinolines as 
a source for more examples of stays.  I didn't think C&C had drafts of any of 
the stays in Kyoto, I think they are from English collections.

>No, it doesn't. Incidentally, Norah Waugh gives the diagram etc. of
>'corps a l'anglaise' under the heading "Eighteenth-century Tailors'
>and Dressmakers' Patterns' at page 107 The Cut of Women's Clothes,
>No.12 at the top of the page.

     I found the Diderot plates here:
http://www.contouche.de/en/1700/schnitte/s1700a.shtml
     The web page identifies the English stays as closed front, and there is a 
set of open-front French stays, which are both front & back lacing.  Diderot 
did illustrate other stays that are not on this page, so maybe you're citing a 
different plate.

>Actually, what I said was 'I think [it] was reasonably common practise
>judging from my research so far'.

     Right, and I wondered about that because I and other researchers think 
that front-lacing-only was uncommon.  There are a few examples, certainly 
enough that making stays that way is correct.  Most people I know are looking 
for what was the most common or average when making repro clothing.

>My question was as to the statistical basis of any sampling exercise;
>peoples' conclusions are not relevant to that question. But I should,
>of course, be most interested in any published research you can point
>me to on the question of aristocratic womens' stays in England during
>the relevant period.

     If you want to hear more about what is out there in other books, museums, 
and private collections, I still recommend the 18cWoman list.  Most listmembers 
focus on American costume of the 1770s, but have looked at earlier & later 
examples.  As a colony of England, the prevailing fashion in America was the 
same, both from imported goods and fashion magazines that came from England.

     I think it would be interesting to take a survey of what the listmembers 
have studied; we did something similar with printed textiles a couple years 
ago.  It would be nice if you would introduce the topic to the list, otherwise 
I may ask about it.

     Back to front-lacing stays - the main disadvantage of front lacing stays 
is you don't have the horizontal bones that give such a nice rounded shape at 
the top.  The effect is most pronounced in the 1780s, but the horizontal bones 
were used earlier.

     My favorite draft is from Corsets & Crinolies, a mid-century set of stays 
that lace both front & back, with a stomacher as part of the stays.  Bjarne 
described another set of extant stays he saw that were made this way.  The 
stomacher has horizontal bones, and the stays themselves are easily adjusted 
both for size changes and the position of the straps.  The back can be drawn 
tight and the front looser for that pulled-back shoulder look, or the opposite 
to make them less restrictive to wear.  They're great for long-term use.

     -Carol

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] My guilty pleasure.
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> >>  http://www.amiperiodornot.com
> > I read it too -- some of the comments are useful, but a great many are
> > extremely harsh or plain ill-informed.  And then there are the folks who
> > post naked women or men in bad quality chain mail.
> Despite the acidity of many of the comments, if you read them long
> enough you start to see trends. Outfits without hats or sleeves seems to
> be a big button-pusher. Mixing elements from different periods, or
> fanatsy elements is another, as is wrong/lack of accessories.

What puts me off is the comments along the lines of wanting to ram from
behind or saying someone looks gay. I'm not ever going to post there. I
don't mind criticism, but I'm not about to put myself through reading some
of those things about myself. I was disgusted enough reading them about
other people! Now I very  rarely read comments, I mostly just look at
pictures.
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Subject: [h-cost] My fortune is now gone.... LOL
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Status: RO

Went to the sewing expo this weekend in puyallup, wa. What great fun. I especially enjoyed all the diversity of the craft. The booth that got my fortune this year was Vogue Fabric. High quality, designer fabric at VERY reasonable prices (some as little as $3.99 a yard, most around 5-7.99 a yard). 
Their website is http://www.voguefabricsstore.com/

Id appreciate any other fabric deal sites too!!! :)

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Hi,
I have tryed very hard to find any informations about when silk ribbon embroidery was invented. A swedish website told me that it was used in the end of 18th century, for gentlemens waistcoats and jackets. It also told me that there were examples to se at Nordiska Musset in Stockholm.
I know this is a little hassardious job i have done, but i absolutely fell in love with this embroidery and started to make myself a waistcoat:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/chenillesuit.htm
I now have 9 days to make the right side of the waistcoat + 2 pocket flaps and assembly of the waistcoat. I simply wont go without this waistcoat. Travelling to the gustavians in Sweden next thursday.
Does any of you know how old silk ribbon embroidery is?

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] My fortune is now gone.... LOL
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Ha! You think you've got it bad? I used to live only 2 miles away from
their flagship store in Evanston, Illinois and I still live only about 4
miles from their 'outlet' store (small but enthusiastic) in Lansing,
Illinois. A truly evil place....EVIL I tell you!


Karen


On Mon, 1 Mar 2004 12:53:18 -0800 "Brandy Deming"
<queenscorner@verizon.net> writes:
> Went to the sewing expo this weekend in puyallup, wa. What great fun. 
> I especially enjoyed all the diversity of the craft. The booth that 
> got my fortune this year was Vogue Fabric. High quality, designer 
> fabric at VERY reasonable prices (some as little as $3.99 a yard, 
> most around 5-7.99 a yard). 
> Their website is http://www.voguefabricsstore.com/
> 
> Id appreciate any other fabric deal sites too!!! :)
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] My guilty pleasure.
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I finally got on the site. Fascinating! Was only able to browse a bit but
have not found the harsh comments people have spoken of. Though it does say
that some AOL person's comments have been removed.
Thank you for introducing me to this site.

Arian

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:busks, stomachers and bulges
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Mia wrote:


> I am the one with the wrinkled- 18 cent front.


Thank you; I've now managed to turn up your original post!

> In reading through the responses, and thinking out my alternatives,
I'm beginning to think I have several issues going on.
>
> One is that my present stays are front-and-back laced.  My old stays
were back-only laced.  While the front and back laced are tremendously
more wearable for me, in addition to being convenient and adjustable,
more of me bulges out.  Even when I lace edge to edge in the front
(Remember, I could
> kindly be described a plump little woman)


I think that one aspect is that female fronts tend to be more squishy
than female backs, if that makes sense. The front lacing stays at
Kyoto seem to have a wide flap which extends behind the lacing, and I
intend to put one on mine when I put the lining in. I'm assuming that
even if the flap wasn't boned it would have been made of serviceable
and reasonably stout fabric, which allows a smoother line. It also
would make smoothing the chemise under the stays rather easier, which
I think is important.

> All through this last season, I have been thinking BUSK? as a
solution to the problem, >but haven't gotten to actually making or
buying one (the wonderful man from Wooded >Hamlet who has ribbons and
tapes now makes busks and they are reasonably priced as >are all his
goods)

Well, I should be interested to know how that turns out. The flap I
mentioned above could be made to have a pocket in it for a busk...

Going on to  other aspects mentioned in your original post; you were
quoting from Joanna Hobbins:

>'in fact, the shape of the corset may be taken from the
> dress bodice pattern'

my understanding, at least so far, is that the stays would have been
used as a foundation to drape the bodice rather than the other way
around. This would make a substantial difference, I think.

Nora Waugh suggests that the bodice would have been lined with a firm
unbleached linen, which should minimise wrinkling. Cotton would be
more problematical.

Also, have you boned the bodice at all? Again, the bodice of a robe a
l'anglaise may have been boned as well as the stays. I don't know if
you have 'Fashion' by the Kyoto Costume Institute; there is a
particularly good example of large pictures of a 1770 English
polonaise at pages 80, 82-3 and 84-5 which had 5 bones in the bodice
back. Unfortunately it doesn't seem to be on the website.

There is a 1780 robe a l'anglaise shown at page 89, which is boned at
the centre back; this is on the website:

'White, pink and green striped Lyons silk satin; sabot sleeves;
fastened at the front with hooks, compère style; boned at center-back.
Inv. AC1926 79-1-78

The url isn't very helpful

http://www.kci.or.jp/collection/collset-e.html

and the picture shows the front, not back, but at least it is an
indication that the 1770 gown isn't a one-off:-)

I look forward to hearing more about your project, and indeed, to
seeing your ensemble when you come to England next year!

best wishes
Stevie






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On Monday 01 March 2004 01:01 pm, kat@grendal.rain.com wrote:
> >   And there are so many different views about almost
> > every > topic with regard to the Tudors, I think the only way to
> > develop a really > balanced opinion, is to read 'em all! LOL
> >
> >
> > That's usually what I end up doing with any historical area I become
> > interested in--read as much of what's out there as I can get my hands
> > on.  :-)
>
> Amen to that!

If only because I never have any idea how to find the best sources directly.  
:-)

>
> But the ones I pay the most attention to are the ones which support
> their opinions with things like the Letters and Papers which were
> written at the same time as the actions were occurring (as opposed to
> those written 30 years later or those written by Victorians or other
> historians, which so many of the books seem to do.)

Agreed.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Anything's within walking distance if you have the time." -Steven Wright
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On Monday 01 March 2004 01:22 pm, otsisto wrote:
> Is this a site that one needs to be a member to access?

Nope, not at all.  But it has been flaky today for some reason.
-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Anything's within walking distance if you have the time." -Steven Wright
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otsisto wrote:

> I finally got on the site. Fascinating! Was only able to browse a bit but
> have not found the harsh comments people have spoken of.

Here's two examples for those of you who are curious but can't get to 
the site; mine and a recent one by someone else:

I posted a picture of me in one of my middle-class hat attempts, to see 
if people posting were at least warned that comments could be 
stupid/rude/ignorant, which I think would be only fair.  (answer: no; I 
did send a note to that effect to the webmistress, who participates in 
many costume email lists.)

Below is my description, the votes so far, and all the comments.  If you 
want to see the photo, follow the links.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Description: Middle-class outfit; see source [see picture]. Wool gown 
over linen shift and kirtle, can't see them of course. That's a repro 
pin holding neckline closed. With 20/400+ eyesight, chose to use glasses 
despite.

Permanent link to vote page: http://amiperiodornot.com/?image_id=322
Permanent link to details page: 
http://amiperiodornot.com/details.mhtml?image_id=322

Average vote: 7.2

Vote breakdown:
1 	(1)
2 	(2)
3 	(1)
4 	(3)
5 	(22)
6 	(10)
7 	(14)
8 	(24)
9 	(19)
10 	(14)

Comments:

While I love your interpretation, I'm giving you a 7. Linen should be 
finer, with more creases, pin should be bigger, top veil should be 
arranged differently. This is mostly because you are trying to emulate 
the refernce image. Otherwise - FANTASTIC! MdeJ

i agree- veil top should be arranged differently. and honestly, you 
could be wearing bellbottoms and snowboots, and none of us would know- 
please show the whole costume next time! i cant just judge on the hat.

WAhhh. Try voting on what you can see

As I can only see the wimple and veil, that's all I'm commenting on. 
I'll give a 7, because I strongly feel that you should have a lighter 
linen. I do like the effect you have achieved. It frames your face 
nicely. ms154{at}cornell.edu

anyone who bitches about glasses can bite me. I would -love- to hear 
from you about how you built this headgear - I've tried myself and not 
done so well. alia 'at' swcp.com

have to agree you need a finer linen, and cant see the dress

For portrait, you might have taken glasses off rather than make excuses. 
You strongly resemble the model in the original! Hems on your 
wimple/veil too heavy. More likely cut and glue-finished.

Linen should be finer weight, should completely cover hair, look at 
source...

I think the wimple/vieling is great, I too would suggest perhaps silk 
gauze? if you can't find thin enough linen? I love how it looks and the 
top of the gown is great I can see that you took from the pic and you 
are not saying it is a complete 'copy'.

I suspect the original's hairline is plucked so I'm not bothered by 
seeing your hair, though I do thin the whole assemblage should sit a wee 
bit more forward. And, yes, lighter veil. 8

I assume the phot was a candid, hence the glasses on. I think this is 
about an 8, but I'm giving you a 10 to make up for the person who 
apparently doesn't know you need glasses to _see_.

I'd love a period cite for "glue finish." Extant piece or text cite, not 
conjecture.

What a wonderful hat! Yours seems longer than the original, any reason 
why? Perhaps it should be starched a bit more to retain the top center 
creases? -Alienor

Colours too dark

remarkably well done. Kudos to you!

Love it! Wanna see it full-length! Creases would fall out of linen as it 
went through the day . I'm not requireing plucked hairlines for high 
marks. And I can't see without my glasses either! This ROCKS!

Good try, but not quite there yet. Get some lighter weight linen for the 
veil, get the hair under control And get a deeper "V" on the neckline. 
But a very good start.

Poster speaking: you can see info on this hat-draft at 
http://www.virtue.to under middle class hat.

you have heard the call for lighter linen

nice hat.

gives a period feel to be sure, but try to obscure hairline a bit more

Judging soley on the hat: It could be the picture but the material in 
the picture is much thinner than yours. Her hair doesn't show but I'm 
sure thats because she's plucked it back, I understand why you wouldn't 
want to shave or pluck back your hairline

neato! doesn't seem to fall off your head in quite the same way, and 
would be better in a very fine crisp linen (can see fold marks in 
painting). I love the pins!

close to perfect! In fact, it probably is perfect, I just don't do that 
time period.

An 9 only becaue of the glasses and the hair. Superb

Glasses?

Wonderful job. I always love your hats.

Very nice, huzzah!

Perfect! Bad vision/Doctor's orders are always period in my opinion. 10

very good facsimile

I know you need the glasses, but if you are having the photo taken, 
please remove them for a moment. Otherwise, perfect!

This is inspiring. I join the call for lighter linen and glue-finished 
hems, but the hang is still excellent!

I think your veil needs some starch.

nicely done, good reproduction

Dress is not quite the same as picture, but not wrong for the period. 
adn we all know medical aids are invisible. pity you couldn't hide all 
your hair like original. 10 anyway Elizabeth_Beaumont(at)livinghistory.co.uk

Glasses people glasses! How long does it take to remove them for a photo?
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Here's one that got more heated:

Description: Silk dress und underdress, hand woven. 12th century. Short 
hair :-(

Permanent link to vote page: http://amiperiodornot.com/?image_id=569
Permanent link to details page: 
http://amiperiodornot.com/details.mhtml?image_id=569

Average vote: 4.7

Vote breakdown:
1 	(5)
2 	(4)
3 	(4)
4 	(2)
5 	(8)
6 	(5)
7 	(6)
8 	(0)
9 	(1)
10 	(2)

Comments:

this has no resemblance to what I would call 12th century, but perhaps 
you have data to prove your right? the veil is a strange fabric and is 
draped in a modern way. Silk dresses and no jewelry, strange huge belt 
with mishmash of ornaments?

This would be an attempt at a bliaut, right? Love the fabric and the 
dresses embellishment, Can we see a stand up? Bodice might need a 
tighter fit...

Princess Buttercup? Shows way too much Skin, Style is more fairy tale 
then Medieval, belt looks like a childrens toy, go and read some oeriod 
books maid... AND: Next time, use Photoshop to remove the kissing marks 
on your shoulder...

Neckline wrong. Veil wrong. Hair wrong, but if veil was worn correctly, 
who would know?, Belt wrong, This just isn't 12th century except in bad 
movies

Beautiful - would look much better with good veil arrangement, though.

the neckline is way too low. you need a wimple and better veil 
arrangement. i think the belt is ok.

Color is luscious and very appropriate for a noblewoman. I would suggest 
that the neckline too scooped, the veil and hair arrangement completely 
modern, and the plaque belt doesn't quite work . Look at more period 
examples. Lovely fit and overall look.

Headress as said, belt is more 14th century, neckline too low but 
sleeves are actually pretty good. What is handwoven? I don't believe the 
fabric is but it looks like maybe your trim is? Do tell! 6

Pretty but screams Eowyn Sheild Maiden. Bring up the neckline, loose the 
harsh leather belt (Tablet woven maybe?) and look at some period veil 
drapings to pull this together. I also suggest a self supporting underdress.

O.k. butterbutt, no need to insult me, stay at criticizing the clothes. 
The silk is handwoven by kids workers in India! And sorry for my skin, 
but there are no kissmarks on it and I am not YOUR maid, giek!

Would give you a 10 for Disneyland, but for medieval ? What's hand woven 
silk good for, if the complete garb don't fit (mistakles mentiond above) 
? Oh yes, i forgot. It's made by the hands of some forced-to-work 
children... Yeah, be proud of it, dumpass.

Whatever happened to civility and treating each other with courtesy?

Love the colour. - for neckline, veil and belt, it's been said before. 
The only real problem is the neckline since it's damn hard to fix.

If fabric is Fair Trade, it should be fine--it is beautiful. Problems 
have already been mentioned. Glad to see someone at least attempting a veil.

I'd live to see a standing pic to see how it really drapes. Looks like I 
might need to fit tighter through the torso. Veil and belt comments have 
already been made. Sad about child labor. :-( 6

Looks like she's probably a fighter who needs a mantle to protect her 
collarbone... Love the colour and the fabric (fair trade products rock), 
but there's lots of docu for more period veil drapings, see #262

OK, dress would get a 5 for the work, altough not slightly period... But 
for, apperntly even beeing proud of, supporting childrens labor you get 
a 1 for the Dress, a -10 for Character... Admins, please delete this 
shameless person, its a shame for SCA!

it's really fantasy especialy the headdress. the cut of this dress is 
way more 15th century. at least wear a smock of some sort, chemise or 
wimple to cover your chest. Fabric too shinny for that period.Cover your 
hair, wear a real veil, loose the necklace

Gourgeous fabric, love the sleeves, but can't possibly be 12th century 
with that neckline and that veil/hair. So sorry, I know you can't fix 
the neckline.

Bodice needs to be tightly side laced - not princess seamed. Don't do a 
curved armscye. Neckline should be v or keyhole not scoop. Veil should 
be square or oval. Leather belt 13th century, not 12th. Nice trim and 
color on dress.

medieval movie prop as a result of gaining knowledge without reading a 
book. Shame om You.

Would LOVE to see you standing up
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

Vote early, vote often!
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Mmmm...haven't read the books, but would have to agree with you about 
the "flavor" of the t.v. specials...pretty sensationalistic.
--sue

Sarah wrote:

> I should clarify.  I was speaking about Starkey's television specials, 
> not his books.   I'm sure others will be swift to disagree with me on 
> this point as well, but hey.  That's my opinion and I'm sticking with 
> it.  ;)
> 
> Sarah
> http://www.modehistorique.com


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Thanks for the link.  That 1540 Florentine noblewoman in a green gown 
(by Bronzino) has always been one of my favorites....just seeing it is 
almost enough to haul me back into the 16th c.  (not from the 21st, 
understand ;o), but from the 14th where I'm currently trying to 
establish a persona....)
--maire

Catalina Saravia Quicedo wrote:

> http://www.geocities.com/ailithmac/portraits.html
> 
> There are 2 portraits of Eleonora de Toldeo wearing
> pearled partlets.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] My guilty pleasure.
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 21:00:25 -0500
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And yet people keep using the site. Too bad it can't be moderated. No
instead we must hear nit picking about "change the linen" "move the hickey"
(do they know hickeys are period?) I've also tended to notice that the more
respected the costumer is (or the more pictures they have on AIPON) the more
they get slammed. Or worse the more accurate the effort the gown the look
the harder it gets slammed. There is no one up there with perfection for
comments without criticism unless someone has put their cute child sporting
the Barbie does Rapunzel look at the local Renfaire. Why not be
constructive? And don't sit and tell me that people on these lists aren't
among those making the rude comments. This site may have it's occasional
lurker from outside our cherished circle of costumers from h-cost and yahoo
but I find it a bit hard that such a genre geared site aimed at only people
who do ren costume or are SCAdian minded is getting slammed by mundanes.
That makes me worried. These are comments from what are essentially very sad
snarks with no life except to pick and critisize. These are the people who
at events make stink eye at someone at her first event wearing a CW hoop
under her generic wench skirt. Instead of being nice and guiding the poor
girl (who may not even WANT help to start with) in the correct direction
I've seen these shrews put these poor girls in tears. Yep Bice just ranted
and will get off her soapbox. Sorry it won't happen for another 6 months at
least. Most of you know me know those hot spots for me tend to be far and
few between but this is a biggie.

Bice (who isn't called The Bitch for nothing)

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cynthia Virtue" <cvirtue+dated+1093743190.0b077c@thibault.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, March 01, 2004 8:34 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My guilty pleasure.


<snipped comments from some major asshats>



> Cynthia Virtue and/or
> Cynthia du Pré Argent
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] My guilty pleasure.
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> I posted a picture of me in one of my middle-class hat attempts, to see 
> if people posting were at least warned that comments could be 
> stupid/rude/ignorant, which I think would be only fair.  

Ok, since I know very little about these hats and I'm curious, _which_ of their posts were anywhere near the mark or where they all totally wrong?  I loved the one about having glued it on (????).  How on earth can you tell without handling the dern thing?
         --Kathy K.  


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Middle class hat/My guilty pleasure.
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kathysmassmail@verizon.net wrote:

> Ok, since I know very little about these hats and I'm curious,
> _which_ of their posts were anywhere near the mark or where they all
> totally wrong?  I loved the one about having glued it on (????).  How
> on earth can you tell without handling the dern thing?

Yeah, I'd like to know what people meant by "glue finish."  Someone 
theorized that the posters thought I'd used Stitch Witchery (a fusable) 
to hem it instead of a real hem (it's a .25" machine hem).

Someone else thought that it meant you'd cut the edge and then use some 
sort of glue to "finish" it without folding it as for a hem.  I've never 
heard of this as an option; it would certainly work for modern glues, 
but I wouldn't expect a period glue to do that sort of thing well (this 
is a guess.)

The comments that were correct were: lighter linen.  It's cotton muslin; 
light linen would be great.  Linen, even thin, would stand up better to 
follow the picture.

Hair showing: maybe.  If the model's hair were blonde, it might not show 
much.  Hard to say if it's really a problem.

Glasses: in the context of the SCA, glasses aren't a big deal.  If I 
were doing re-enactment/living history for the public, I'd hunt down 
some contact lenses.

The biggest problem with the hat isn't even addressed by the 
commentators: it's a sham.  By which I mean, I don't think that my 
solution for the underpinnings is likely to be the way it was really 
done.  I say as much on the webpage I wrote about it.  The underpinnings 
are basically a square bonnet; it folds flat; ties under my chin, and 
the ties are hidden by the wimple drape.  It works well for camping and 
rough events, and I can put it on without a mirror.  Wouldn't work well 
in the wet; the buckram (!) inside the bonnet would get all soggy and 
floppy.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

Vote early, vote often!
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Subject: [h-cost] RE:My fortune is now gone.... LOL
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Went to the sewing expo this weekend in puyallup, wa. What great fun. I 
especially enjoyed all the diversity of the craft. The booth that got my 
fortune this year was Vogue Fabric. High quality, designer fabric at 
VERY reasonable prices (some as little as $3.99 a yard, most around 
5-7.99 a yard).
Their website is http://www.voguefabricsstore.com/
------------------------------
Hee hee - I work walking distance from the Evanston location!

We call it "Vague Fabrics" because it is a great place to drop in if you 
have a vague idea of what you want.  If you go in looking for 60" 
wide-wale emerald green courduroy, you will pay waaay too much.  If, 
however, you go in thinking "I need a new skirt, and I'm thinking blue 
or green" you will clean up!

Currently have a faire skirt in the works from navy blue $1/yd "mystery 
fabric".  Prolly some kind of blend, but the weave is right and it goes 
with my new brocade bodice.

Wendy Z
now I need chemise fabric in
Chicago, IL
(After a brush with a drunk woman sporting a fresh henna tattoo at MiRF 
last year ruined my favorite one.....waaah)


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE:My fortune is now gone.... LOL
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LUCKY LUCKY LUCKY YOU!!!!!



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "zski" <zski@ripco.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, March 01, 2004 6:47 PM
Subject: [h-cost] RE:My fortune is now gone.... LOL


> Went to the sewing expo this weekend in puyallup, wa. What great fun. I 
> especially enjoyed all the diversity of the craft. The booth that got my 
> fortune this year was Vogue Fabric. High quality, designer fabric at 
> VERY reasonable prices (some as little as $3.99 a yard, most around 
> 5-7.99 a yard).
> Their website is http://www.voguefabricsstore.com/
> ------------------------------
> Hee hee - I work walking distance from the Evanston location!
> 
> We call it "Vague Fabrics" because it is a great place to drop in if you 
> have a vague idea of what you want.  If you go in looking for 60" 
> wide-wale emerald green courduroy, you will pay waaay too much.  If, 
> however, you go in thinking "I need a new skirt, and I'm thinking blue 
> or green" you will clean up!
> 
> Currently have a faire skirt in the works from navy blue $1/yd "mystery 
> fabric".  Prolly some kind of blend, but the weave is right and it goes 
> with my new brocade bodice.
> 
> Wendy Z
> now I need chemise fabric in
> Chicago, IL
> (After a brush with a drunk woman sporting a fresh henna tattoo at MiRF 
> last year ruined my favorite one.....waaah)
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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> I should clarify.  I was speaking about Starkey's television specials,
> not his books.   I'm sure others will be swift to disagree with me on
> this point as well, but hey.  That's my opinion and I'm sticking with
> it.  ;)

That may explain people's reactions to him then. I've never seen one 
of the specials but I've read 3 of his books and been impressed by 
the scholarship compared to most people writing on the same topics.

Sometimes things on TV are "sexed up" because that seems to be what 
gets ratings which bring in money. So, I don't believe I'd judge his 
knowledge by that sort of thing. (Any more than I judge Zahi Hawess 
on what he says in those awful Egyptian TV things he sometimes does. 
His written scholarship is solid, even if he does end up in the same 
program as a guy who thinks that the pyramids were from space 
traveling people.)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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http://www.ac-creteil.fr/louise/dossiers/henri4/jeuneroi/mariage.jpg
 
Does anyone know more about it? I'm brewing up another one of my theories again, this might be the link I am needing to connect the whole crazy idea together.
 
Kathy



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Judging from the website, it would appear to be the wedding of Henri IV
of France (don't know to which of his 2 wives). 

>>> caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca 3/2/04 10:28:16 AM >>>
http://www.ac-creteil.fr/louise/dossiers/henri4/jeuneroi/mariage.jpg 
 
Does anyone know more about it? I'm brewing up another one of my
theories again, this might be the link I am needing to connect the whole
crazy idea together.
 
Kathy



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I believe this is his marriage to Margaret of Valois
since it says marriage of the young king. Even though
he wasn't king when he married her.


 --- Kate M Bunting <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> wrote: >
Judging from the website, it would appear to be the
> wedding of Henri IV
> of France (don't know to which of his 2 wives). 
> 
> >>> caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca 3/2/04 10:28:16 AM >>>
>
http://www.ac-creteil.fr/louise/dossiers/henri4/jeuneroi/mariage.jpg
> 
>  
> Does anyone know more about it? I'm brewing up
> another one of my
> theories again, this might be the link I am needing
> to connect the whole
> crazy idea together.
>  
> Kathy
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------
> Post your free ad now! Yahoo! Canada Personals
> _______________________________________________
> _____________
> 
> Kate Bunting
> Library, University of Derby
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

=====
Señora Catalina
Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit


	
	
		
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Cynthia:

Thanks for posting those samples. I forgot about this site, which I quite
enjoyed the first few times I looked at it. The pictures are fun. The
comments, especially on the second one you posted, are really shocking! What
is the matter with people that they say such things? Just because you are
anonymous doesn't mean you have the right to be nasty. I am tired of what
passes for "just being honest" these days.

Gail Finke



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Maby some of them are just jealous?
The most stupid thing someone made about my dress:
is just a nice wedding dress with a historic feel to it.
That made me really angry.
And the commants about cotton velvet. I have seen it in the Netherlands 
for 150 Euro per meter and they had it only in red.
Ordering from internet is way to expensive since I have to pay import 
duty wich is quite high.
What about tabs at the waist....
It is frustrating that you put a link on the site where is explained how 
I made the dress, but most people who give comments don't read it.
http://amiperiodornot.com/details.mhtml?image_id=476

Gail & Scott Finke wrote:

>Cynthia:
>
>Thanks for posting those samples. I forgot about this site, which I quite
>enjoyed the first few times I looked at it. The pictures are fun. The
>comments, especially on the second one you posted, are really shocking! What
>is the matter with people that they say such things? Just because you are
>anonymous doesn't mean you have the right to be nasty. I am tired of what
>passes for "just being honest" these days.
>
>Gail Finke
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>  
>

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From: "Cindy Abel" <brujne@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Portrait of Catherine Parr
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 09:28:48 -0600
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I have his series on Elizabeth I and Six Wives and they are not no much
"sexed-up" as "dumbed down" for a general audience.  Also in the
introduction to the book "Six Wives" he explains how it evolved from a
companion book to the series on TV to almost a separate work and much more
weightly in volume and scope.

Cindy Abel

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of kat@grendal.rain.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 12:54 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Portrait of Catherine Parr



> I should clarify.  I was speaking about Starkey's television specials,
> not his books.   I'm sure others will be swift to disagree with me on
> this point as well, but hey.  That's my opinion and I'm sticking with
> it.  ;)

That may explain people's reactions to him then. I've never seen one
of the specials but I've read 3 of his books and been impressed by
the scholarship compared to most people writing on the same topics.

Sometimes things on TV are "sexed up" because that seems to be what
gets ratings which bring in money. So, I don't believe I'd judge his
knowledge by that sort of thing. (Any more than I judge Zahi Hawess
on what he says in those awful Egyptian TV things he sometimes does.
His written scholarship is solid, even if he does end up in the same
program as a guy who thinks that the pyramids were from space
traveling people.)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] anyone ever see this picture before?
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Kathy Page wrote:

> http://www.ac-creteil.fr/louise/dossiers/henri4/jeuneroi/mariage.jpg
>  
> Does anyone know more about it? I'm brewing up another one of my theories again, this might be the link I am needing to connect the whole crazy idea together.
>  

I haven't seen this image before, but something about it just screams 
20th century (Victorian) to me. Maybe I need more caffeine. In any case, 
the image is too small for me to see details very clearly on my current 
monitor.

What are you looking for?



Dawn



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What exactly do you want to know? Just glancing at it, I would judge it to
be a Victorian illustration or inexpensive painting. Are you trying to
document some garment to Victorian interpretations of actual clothes?

Gail Finke

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Dawn wrote:

>I haven't seen this image before, but something about it just screams

>20th century (Victorian) to me. Maybe I need more caffeine. 

You do - I think you mean 19th century! :-)





Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby
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In a message dated 3/2/2004 9:25:16 AM Central Standard Time, 
triade@kabelfoon.nl writes:
It is frustrating that you put a link on the site where is explained how 
I made the dress, but most people who give comments don't read it.


Oh, gosh, hon ... the comments on your dress are as kind and supportive as 
they get on that site!  You looked absolutely stunning and your gown was 
gorgeous; don't let anyone else intrude on your memories of how you felt that day.  
Besides, white may not have been de-rigeur for brides in the 16th century, but 
you could always have been following Mary Stuart's example ::smile::.

I've seen a fellow seamstress from eBay post a photo of a gown, which I 
thought was quite lovely, on that site.  Granted there were things about it that 
were not entirely correct, but the comments she got were absolutely brutal.  I 
thought the intent of that site was for people to give *constructive* 
commentary with an eye to improving accuracy, but people told her horrible things like 
"keep your day job...oh, wait, this IS your day job, how sad" and crap like 
that.  It was really sick.

-Tiffany
Reflections*of*Worth
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Tiffsewsstuff@aol.com wrote:
> thought the intent of that site was for people to give *constructive* 
> commentary with an eye to improving accuracy, but people told her horrible things

This is the biggest problem: there is NO GUIDANCE about what sort of 
comments.  Nowhere does it say "be constructive."

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

Vote early, vote often!
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In a message dated 3/2/2004 12:59:27 PM Central Standard Time, 
cvirtue+dated+1093805862.841067@thibault.org writes:
This is the biggest problem: there is NO GUIDANCE about what sort of 
comments.  Nowhere does it say "be constructive."


Yeah ....I'm usually the idealist who's running around with a goofy grin, 
thinking that everyone's being nice, when it turns out they were actually 
plotting an assassination of some sort.

-Tiffany
Reflections*of*Worth
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Catalina=20Saravia=20Quicedo?= <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: amiperiodornot
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Somehow I managed to figure out that they were looking
for constructive criticism. I have seen the SCA garb
list get pretty nasty at times in the past. I
personally wouldn't post my stuff on this site, but I
like to see pictures of what other people are doing.
We don't travel much so I get to see the same old garb
style at every event. 



 --- Cynthia Virtue
<cvirtue+dated+1093805862.841067@thibault.org> wrote:
> Tiffsewsstuff@aol.com wrote:
> > thought the intent of that site was for people to
> give *constructive* 
> > commentary with an eye to improving accuracy, but
> people told her horrible things
> 
> This is the biggest problem: there is NO GUIDANCE
> about what sort of 
> comments.  Nowhere does it say "be constructive."
> 


=====
Señora Catalina
Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit


	
	
		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: amiperiodornot- 1643
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 where would you direct someone to for post-1643
cavalier type garb? I don't do that myself, but I have
been asked in the past.

=====
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: amiperiodornot
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I really liked this dress. Have you ever looked at
message boards on new sites? There are sick, juvenile
people out there cruising for places to make obscene
and rude comments. I'd like to see more of your work. 



> The most stupid thing someone made about my dress:
> is just a nice wedding dress with a historic feel to
> it.
> That made me really angry.
> And the commants about cotton velvet. I have seen it
> in the Netherlands 
> for 150 Euro per meter and they had it only in red.
> Ordering from internet is way to expensive since I
> have to pay import 
> duty wich is quite high.
> What about tabs at the waist....
> It is frustrating that you put a link on the site
> where is explained how 
> I made the dress, but most people who give comments
> don't read it.
> http://amiperiodornot.com/details.mhtml?image_id=476
> 


=====
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Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit


	
	
		
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>>> ladyforbeys@yahoo.com 3/2/04 7:17:14 PM >>>
> where would you direct someone to for post-1643
>cavalier type garb? I don't do that myself, but I have
>been asked in the past.

"English" Civil War (1642-51) is a very popular period for reenactment
in the UK, but I don't know of any sites that discuss photos of garb in
this way. The Sealed Knot and English Civil War Society have websites
with picture galleries, and discussion forums where costume is among the
subjects discussed. For contemporary illustrations, try
http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/17thlinks.htm 



Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby
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I always thought that if people had to put their email address and "join" the site, they would be less inclined to be nasty.  And my pic didn't even get some of the worst comments (I'm #176).  A friend of mine got comments calling him "fatto" and such.  You have to just decide that it's not for the purposes of research, help or constructive criticism, and take it as the joke it is.  Respectable costumers and researchers wouldn't be so nasty.


Jennifer Fleury
Assistant Property Master
"Century City"
Universal Network Television

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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] anyone ever see this picture before?
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 13:35:42 -0700
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Yeah, so what is it about those pictures which screams Victorian?  I felt
the same way about it and have been trying to figure out what it is in my
own head.  Is it the realisim? Also the angle of her head seems Victorian to
me....does that sound weird or what?

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Kate M Bunting
Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 10:24 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] anyone ever see this picture before?



Dawn wrote:

>I haven't seen this image before, but something about it just screams

>20th century (Victorian) to me. Maybe I need more caffeine.

You do - I think you mean 19th century! :-)





Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Mar  2 16:03:37 2004
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Jennifer Fleury wrote:

> 
> I always thought that if people had to put their email address and "join" the site, they would be less inclined to be nasty. 

I agree that the anonymity is a major factor behind the more abusive 
comments.

A friend of mine "fixed" his out of control message board by turning on 
the software that logged the IP address of each visitor. When people 
posted they could use a pseudonym to log in, but it would always post 
their IP next to their name. It stopped people from using multiple names 
just to be argumentative or from returning under a new name if they got 
flamed off the board. And it gave him --the person in charge of the 
site-- a way to track the wost offenders and report them to their ISP.

Unlike an email address, it's much harder to fake an IP address, and in 
this case it seemed to get the message across that abuse would not be 
tolerated.


Dawn



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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Mar  2 16:06:49 2004
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Oh that is you Jennifer,

I followed you around trying to look inconspicuous last Fresno Fair just trying to get a better view of your gown.  It was very well done.  I've always been afraid that that much machine embroidery would make the sleeves too stiff but that was not apparent at all.  You looked georgous, truely.

Lisa Sinervo



---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Jennifer Fleury <jenniferfleury@sbcglobal.net>
Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date:  Tue, 2 Mar 2004 11:39:22 -0800 (PST)

>
>
>I always thought that if people had to put their email address and "join" the site, they would be less inclined to be nasty.  And my pic didn't even get some of the worst comments (I'm #176).  A friend of mine got comments calling him "fatto" and such.  You have to just decide that it's not for the purposes of research, help or constructive criticism, and take it as the joke it is.  Respectable costumers and researchers wouldn't be so nasty.
>
>
>Jennifer Fleury
>Assistant Property Master
>"Century City"
>Universal Network Television
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
 
             
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Saragrace T. Knauf wrote:

> Yeah, so what is it about those pictures which screams Victorian?  I felt
> the same way about it and have been trying to figure out what it is in my
> own head.  Is it the realisim? Also the angle of her head seems Victorian to
> me....does that sound weird or what?

It may be the soft pastel tile floor. I can't see the faces clearly 
enough, but they have that soft, delicate petite featured look to them 
that was popular in the mid 1800's. Something about the poses of the men 
doesn't feel right for 16th century, and the entire composition seems 
too informal.

I think the biggest thing I see is the way the woman in yellow is 
holding her overskirt gathered up in her right hand. I've never seen 
that pose in a 16th century portrait.

Hmmn, it could just be the poor resolution, but it seems to be that none 
of the men are wearing codpieces. There's a hint of one on the man 
standing at center right, but I can't be sure.

Yeah, I think in part it is the realism. A side effect of the growing 
fad for photography.



Dawn




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Dawn wrote:

> Something about the poses of the men 
> doesn't feel right for 16th century, and the entire composition seems 
> too informal.

I'm no expert, but I did notice the delicate cock of the men's hands, 
and the way they have their non-weight leg bent 'just so.'  The man in a 
helmet on the left is interesting and incongruous, as he has on tights 
and is otherwise not armored.

So does someone know the real story of this picture?  Did I miss a post 
with the details?


-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

Vote early, vote often!
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In a message dated 3/2/2004 1:59:27 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
cvirtue+dated+1093805862.841067@thibault.org writes:

> Nowhere does it say "be constructive."
> 

Well, that's gonna guarantee positive comments!

You guys are way too sensitive. Most cutting remarks [like the one above] are 
to show how clever the author is.

It's comments like "white was not for weddings in 15-whatever blah blah 
blah...." that are the most annoying. What's the point they're trying to make? That 
no one EVER wore white at a wedding then? That this is actually 15-whatever?
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Subject: [h-cost] Catherine Parr
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>
>
>
> I just want to know why THIS message (dated Feb 19th didn't show up in 
> my digest until today (Mar 1).

I was wondering that too.

On the subject of Parr vs Grey, I was flicking through an old  costume 
book the other day, and was suprised to see the portrait attributed 
then as Catherine Parr.The book is Fashion: From Ancient Egypt to the 
Present Day, edited by James Laver, and published in 1965, p.138. The 
portrait was then in the Novarro Collection.   I know it's a fairly 
generic costume history, but I was intrigued at the time and meant to 
follow it up. So if it was originally thought to be her, when was it 
decided to be Lady Jane? Did the historian who re-attributed it mention 
this?


Cheers,
Hilary
>
>
>

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Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> 
> So does someone know the real story of this picture?  Did I miss a post 
> with the details?

It's from this webpage: 
http://www.ac-creteil.fr/louise/dossiers/henri4/jeuneroi/mariage.html

Navigation on the site is somewhat tricky, I haven't figured out the 
route from the main page, and there are no nav buttons within the 
section on Henri Quatre so I'm stabbing in the dark with Google trying 
to figure this out.

I did notice that the alternate text for that image says "Tableau 
d'Edmond Lechevallier-Chevignar".

Edmond Lechevallier-Chevignard (with a D) is the author (compiler?) of a 
book called _European Costume of the 16th Through the 18th Centuries_ 
which is line drawing repros of period portraits. He compiled or wrote a 
couple other titles on architecture and design which don't seem to be 
currently in print. More importantly, he was a painter who lived and 
worked in France, from 1825-1902. He seems to have been a contemporary 
of, and possibly in the same field of work as Auguste Racinet, whose 
costume book we are also familiar with.

Henri of Navarre, later king of France, husband of the infamous Queen 
Margot, of recent movie fame is practically a saint as far as the French 
are concerned. Depictions of him have continued through to the present 
day. I'm not surprised scenes from his life were painted only 140 years 
ago. He's treated rather like George Washington or Abraham Lincoln is in 
the US.

Regrettably, I cannot find any other examples of 
Lechevallier-Chevignard's work to compare the painting to, or even 
another example of that painting in a context that would prove he is the 
artist. If somebody has an art book for 19th century French painters 
that would be a good place to look.



Dawn
Now caffeinated and with way too much time on her hands today




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It bothered me, too; but I couldn't put my finger on just why it struck me
as a 19c. painting.  Maybe the roundness of all the figures?
Anyway, I tracked the painting back to the original site; the hot link is in
the last line on the bottom of the page.  Click on "mariage" and it will
bring you to a page with two paintings.  The one in question is the second
one.  If you mouse over it, it is identified as a painting by our old friend
Edmond Lechevallier-Chevignard (1825-1902), author/illustrator of _European
Costume of the 16th through 18th Centuries_.  He was also a painter of
portraits and murals, mostly from the same period, and also did
architectural and non-portrait work.  Everyone's instincts were correct.
FYI, the first painting is by Jacopo Chimenti (aka Jacopo da Empoli,
1554-1610), at least a comtemporary.
                      -Helen/Aidan


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Elisabeth wrote:

> I'm interested in re-creating a gown decorated with pearls.  I
realize that
> pearls have been very popular for ornaments & jewellery for
centuries but am
> wondering about periods when they were actually sewn right onto the
> garments.

'Pearls : a natural history' by Neil H. Landman ... [et al.]. - New
York : (Harry N. Abrams in association with the American Museum of
Natura, 2001) has wonderful information and pictures of pearls
directly embroidered onto garments ranging from red velvet boots
(Russian 16th century if my memory serves me) to helmets (Chinese) and
all points in between. Have fun!

best wishes
Stevie

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Subject: [h-cost] Reliability of Norah Waugh publications? (WAS: Re:
 h-costume Digest, Vol 3, Issue 138)
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At 10:32 PM 2/29/2004, Stevie Gamble wrote:

>Indeed, but by definition a book published 50 years ago, before even
>the Kyoto Costume Institute existed, can hardly have reflected the
>holdings of that museum. Norah Waugh died in 1966, also long before
>the foundation of the KCI.

Hmm. This poses an interesting monkey wrench in a matter I've been 
wondering about for a bit over a year...

In their "Extreme Beauty" exhibit, the Costume Institute of the 
Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York had a cotton gauze standing collar 
with wire supportasse which the exhibit card dated from 16th-Century Italy. 
(This item is *not* in the collection catalogue, sad to say.) Because of 
some questions Bella mentioned concerning the fiber and because "Italy" is 
a rather vague description for the period, I did some further checking in 
the museum's main library. The accession number on the item's exhibit card 
was not consistent with the museum's standards for accessions, nor could 
the librarian and I figure out any other method of accessing information 
about the acquisition, so it's been something on my mind for getting up my 
courage to make an appointment to visit the Costume Institute's library.

Shortly afterwards, while browsing through the museum's giftshop and 
bookstore, I saw an almost-exact functional diagram of the supportasse in 
_The Cut of Men's Clothes_. Waugh dated the design in the 1610-1620 range.

So I have curious as to not just the fiber information (which I think could 
be figured out by viewing the piece under a very strong magnifier or a weak 
microscope) and city-state of origin, but also the apparent inconsistency 
in dating this piece. The idea that Waugh's publication is over 35 years 
old now makes me wonder even more...

*sigh*


Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 12:43:30 -0000
From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Popular periods for pearl
decorations ?
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Elisabeth wrote:

> I'm interested in re-creating a gown decorated with
pearls.  I
realize that
> pearls have been very popular for ornaments &
jewellery for
centuries but am
> wondering about periods when they were actually sewn
right onto the
> garments.

'Pearls : a natural history' by Neil H. Landman ...
[et al.]. - New
York : (Harry N. Abrams in association with the
American Museum of
Natura, 2001) has wonderful information and pictures
of pearls
directly embroidered onto garments ranging from red
velvet boots
(Russian 16th century if my memory serves me) to
helmets (Chinese) and
all points in between. Have fun!

best wishes
Stevie




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I've always found the 17th century to be a popular
place to use pearls on bodices...
Morgen Marshall

Elisabeth wrote:

> I'm interested in re-creating a gown decorated with
pearls.  I
realize that
> pearls have been very popular for ornaments &
jewellery for
centuries but am
> wondering about periods when they were actually sewn
right onto the
> garments.

'Pearls : a natural history' by Neil H. Landman ...
[et al.]. - New
York : (Harry N. Abrams in association with the
American Museum of
Natura, 2001) has wonderful information and pictures
of pearls
directly embroidered onto garments ranging from red
velvet boots
(Russian 16th century if my memory serves me) to
helmets (Chinese) and
all points in between. Have fun!

best wishes
Stevie




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AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
>>Nowhere does it say "be constructive."
> Well, that's gonna guarantee positive comments!

I know it can't be guaranteed, but it at least would give some 
direction.  It's clear tht some of the people commenting think that 
being snarky is the point of the site.  Some think it's a lighthearted 
site.  Some think that anything silly is a criminal waste of their time, 
because the site is serious, serious, serious.

And more to my main concern, there are novice costumers out there who 
think it's going to be useful, post their pictures, and are blasted out 
of the water by gratuitiously nasty remarks.  It's these folks I'd most 
like to protect by some sort of warning notice.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

Vote early, vote often!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] anyone ever see this picture before?
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>>http://www.ac-creteil.fr/louise/dossiers/henri4/jeuneroi/mariage.jpg
>>
>>Does anyone know more about it? I'm brewing up another one of my theories 
>>again, this might be the link I am needing to connect the whole crazy 
>>idea together.
>>
>
>I haven't seen this image before, but something about it just screams 20th 
>century (Victorian) to me. Maybe I need more caffeine. In any case, the 
>image is too small for me to see details very clearly on my current monitor.

The poses of all the people, and the angle from which it was painted, all 
look 19th century to me.  I agree - it "tastes" wrong.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
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Has anyone ever challenged those people with ignorant comments to post their 
pictures.  Geez!  These people really take all the want and desire out of 
reenactment.  The people posting their pictures are at least trying and at that 
one should encourage and guide them in a positive way.

Come on people with ignorant comments.  Post your pictures! So that we can 
get a look at you.

Patrice Betancur (AKA:  Dona Isabeau Adrienne de Tejelo)
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	Tue, 02 Mar 2004 18:13:47 PST
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 18:13:47 -0800 (PST)
From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Odd costume-related question
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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RE:  baby carriers
> From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
> wrote:
>  > How about Rembrandt's "Beggars receiving alms at
> the door of a house"
>  >- see
> 
>
>http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/r/rembran/graphics/etching/index.html

I see a twisted strip of material along both of the
woman's shoulders at about a normal shoulder/sleeve
seam & across her upper chest.  
Looks like a back pack support system there, although
the soft material around the baby is unlike any
backpack I know.

Ann in CT

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: amiperiodornot
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In a message dated 3/2/2004 7:25:22 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
triade@kabelfoon.nl writes:
http://amiperiodornot.com/details.mhtml?image_id=476
Your gown is beautiful.  You are on the right track my dear.  Keep up the 
good work!
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Mar  2 22:45:37 2004
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From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: has anyone seen this painting before?
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Thanks, I had no idea who it was attributed to, nor did I know who the artist was, I only knew who was in the painting. 
 
I have been knawing away at this curious theory. I think I had mentioned something about it in the past about Venetian collar ruffs. I have suspected that the Venetians got the fashion from the French, but I am not having an easy time of if proving my theory. Everything I find is either some annoying Vic reprint or falls out of the timeline. If I can find a French portrait that has the standing open ruff with the appropriate provenance, I'll be content. I suspect that it showed up in Venice when Henri III arrived. (first evidence of this type of collar that I have found is http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/wardrobe/Lido1574.jpg) After that one, they become popular through the 1580's through the early 1600's. All of this hinges on the point that Henri III arrived in Venice in 1574, one of the Henri's from France marries Margot in 1572, which this painting depicts, and her wearing the collar in question. If Henri III happened to have a woman in his entourage, and she ha!
 ppened to
 bring in the fashion... 1+1=2. My whole point for banging my head against this particular wall? I want to reasonably justify using a supportasse or other support mechanism for the collar that you can't reallllllly see in Venetian portraiture, but I have in French.
 
Kathy



Helen wrote:
It bothered me, too; but I couldn't put my finger on just why it struck me
as a 19c. painting. Maybe the roundness of all the figures?
Anyway, I tracked the painting back to the original site; the hot link is in
the last line on the bottom of the page. Click on "mariage" and it will
bring you to a page with two paintings. The one in question is the second
one. If you mouse over it, it is identified as a painting by our old friend
Edmond Lechevallier-Chevignard (1825-1902), author/illustrator of _European
Costume of the 16th through 18th Centuries_. He was also a painter of
portraits and murals, mostly from the same period, and also did
architectural and non-portrait work. Everyone's instincts were correct.
FYI, the first painting is by Jacopo Chimenti (aka Jacopo da Empoli,
1554-1610), at least a comtemporary.
-Helen/Aidan



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Rude raspberries to the complainers! You love beautiful in that gown and 
your husband is really yummy, too!
--sue

Deredere Galbraith wrote:

> Maby some of them are just jealous?
> The most stupid thing someone made about my dress:
> is just a nice wedding dress with a historic feel to it.
> That made me really angry.
> And the commants about cotton velvet. I have seen it in the Netherlands 
> for 150 Euro per meter and they had it only in red.
> Ordering from internet is way to expensive since I have to pay import 
> duty wich is quite high.
> What about tabs at the waist....
> It is frustrating that you put a link on the site where is explained how 
> I made the dress, but most people who give comments don't read it.
> http://amiperiodornot.com/details.mhtml?image_id=476


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: amiperiodornot
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 23:37:09 -0600
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Surely there wasn't a comment that white was not for weddings in the 1500s.
There is at least one painting that shows a woman in a (off white) dress and
it is listed as her wedding dress. Ok, so it was Germanic and not English
but it may have happened but not painted.

Arian

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of AlbertCat@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 3:29 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: amiperiodornot


In a message dated 3/2/2004 1:59:27 PM Eastern Standard Time,
cvirtue+dated+1093805862.841067@thibault.org writes:

> Nowhere does it say "be constructive."
>

Well, that's gonna guarantee positive comments!

You guys are way too sensitive. Most cutting remarks [like the one above]
are
to show how clever the author is.

It's comments like "white was not for weddings in 15-whatever blah blah
blah...." that are the most annoying. What's the point they're trying to
make? That
no one EVER wore white at a wedding then? That this is actually 15-whatever?
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Yes, The orange gown. Looked beautiful, almost period. Great for an average
ren fest. Commentors got vicious. Now I understand what people were talking
about. I'll still go and look and add comments where I know.
There was a picture what I call the kilted blue boy (light heartedly).
Instead of letting him know that a the shirt really should be in the white
range or saffron in color they poked fun at his kilt. They said he didn't
wrap his kilt right and it needed pleats. There is a period wrap that I was
told that had the pleats in the back but it was smooth in the front and
there is another wrap that does not have pleats.

De

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Tiffsewsstuff@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 12:40 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: amiperiodornot


In a message dated 3/2/2004 9:25:16 AM Central Standard Time,
triade@kabelfoon.nl writes:
It is frustrating that you put a link on the site where is explained how
I made the dress, but most people who give comments don't read it.


Oh, gosh, hon ... the comments on your dress are as kind and supportive as
they get on that site!  You looked absolutely stunning and your gown was
gorgeous; don't let anyone else intrude on your memories of how you felt
that day.
Besides, white may not have been de-rigeur for brides in the 16th century,
but
you could always have been following Mary Stuart's example ::smile::.

I've seen a fellow seamstress from eBay post a photo of a gown, which I
thought was quite lovely, on that site.  Granted there were things about it
that
were not entirely correct, but the comments she got were absolutely brutal.
I
thought the intent of that site was for people to give *constructive*
commentary with an eye to improving accuracy, but people told her horrible
things like
"keep your day job...oh, wait, this IS your day job, how sad" and crap like
that.  It was really sick.

-Tiffany
Reflections*of*Worth
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I am working on making an online Costume Encyclopedia. I need one or two people who are well read in *1900 and older* books and plays to help me determine their setting locations and dates.  These are books and plays are from all over the world.  The people who help me on this project will receive at least a year's subscription to my online Library.  

If you all want, I can post some of the books and plays on the list. Whoever can answer the most settings correct from the letters A & B sections will get the job.  Since so many people will depend on work, I can't afford someone who wants to guess.  The given work will have to be verified through reference websites.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
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Status: RO

Please email your answers to me privately, penny@costumegallery.com .  Provide the information if the character was from a book or play,  time period (in years), and  location.  Some I am not sure if they might just be a person of someone's court or an artist and a painting.  Here are my questionable characters from the *A* section of my encyclopedia.  Please, please, please email me off-list with your answers.  Make sure to back up your answers with a website for reference.  There are plenty of literary websites.  If you know 10 of them, please stop there.  There are 18 characters below.

Alice Bridgenorth (Peveril of the Peak)

Altreval (in Ladies' Battle) 

Angot, Fille de Madame (Clairette)

Anne of Geierstein (Sir Walter Scott)

Anne Page (Merry Wives of Windsor)

Annie Laurie (character in a Scotch song... need time period)

Annot Lyle (Legend of Montrose)

Arabelle (Babiole)

Arblay, Madame D'

Ariel (Tempest)

Archite (Chaucer) 

Arlequinette / Harlequinette

Armida (Tasso's Jerusalemme Liberata)

Arrah-na-pogue (Irish Peasant)

Aslanga (Fouque's Aslanga's Knight)

Audrey (As You Like It)

Aveline (La Marjolaine)

Azucena (Il Trovatore)

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Pictures from an event in Sweden, last summer
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Hi, all! I only just realized that they've put up pictures from a
wonderful event I attended last summer, Hantverkslägret (Camp of Crafts)
in Kronoberg, Sweden. It was a mixed-period event, ranging mostly from
9th/10th to late 14th century, where the participants came to perform
period crafts together for a bit over a week. I thought maybe some of
you would enjoy the pictures. :) Unfortunatly it was so hot that a lot
of people left their wool layers off for the workday, especially those
working around fires, so some of the best costumes aren't pictured
because it was so dark when people put them on. :/

The main site is here
http://www.hantverkslagret.org/hantverkslagret/index.asp
, and a direct link to the picture galleries is
here :
http://www.hantverkslagret.org/hantverkslagret/tidigare_verksamhet/kronoberg_2003/s_2003.asp
.

It's all in Swedish I'm afraid, but the seven picture galleries should
be easy enough to navigate anyway. :)

Ingrid

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From: Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
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Hi,

http://aipon.50megs.com/14to16.htm
I am looking for pictures of number 114.
Unfortionally her site has been deleted.
Since I want to recreate this dress too I would love to see how this 
person has done it.

Greetings,
        Deredere


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It  looks like a Frans Hals, a Rubens of VanDick.  Most probably 17th
century.  It could go into the 18th c being a Gillot, like the Italian
Comedy paintings, the whole Rococo thing and the influence of Venetian
paintings and Boucher.  If I had the full painting I may be able to tell
more.

Hope this helps,

Elizabeth

----- Original Message -----
From: "Kathy Page" <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 9:38 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: has anyone seen this painting before?


> Thanks, I had no idea who it was attributed to, nor did I know who the
artist was, I only knew who was in the painting.
>
> I have been knawing away at this curious theory. I think I had mentioned
something about it in the past about Venetian collar ruffs. I have suspected
that the Venetians got the fashion from the French, but I am not having an
easy time of if proving my theory. Everything I find is either some annoying
Vic reprint or falls out of the timeline. If I can find a French portrait
that has the standing open ruff with the appropriate provenance, I'll be
content. I suspect that it showed up in Venice when Henri III arrived.
(first evidence of this type of collar that I have found is
http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/wardrobe/Lido1574.jpg) After that
one, they become popular through the 1580's through the early 1600's. All of
this hinges on the point that Henri III arrived in Venice in 1574, one of
the Henri's from France marries Margot in 1572, which this painting depicts,
and her wearing the collar in question. If Henri III happened to have a
woman in his entourage, and she ha!
>  ppened to
>  bring in the fashion... 1+1=2. My whole point for banging my head against
this particular wall? I want to reasonably justify using a supportasse or
other support mechanism for the collar that you can't reallllllly see in
Venetian portraiture, but I have in French.
>
> Kathy
>
>
>
> Helen wrote:
> It bothered me, too; but I couldn't put my finger on just why it struck me
> as a 19c. painting. Maybe the roundness of all the figures?
> Anyway, I tracked the painting back to the original site; the hot link is
in
> the last line on the bottom of the page. Click on "mariage" and it will
> bring you to a page with two paintings. The one in question is the second
> one. If you mouse over it, it is identified as a painting by our old
friend
> Edmond Lechevallier-Chevignard (1825-1902), author/illustrator of
_European
> Costume of the 16th through 18th Centuries_. He was also a painter of
> portraits and murals, mostly from the same period, and also did
> architectural and non-portrait work. Everyone's instincts were correct.
> FYI, the first painting is by Jacopo Chimenti (aka Jacopo da Empoli,
> 1554-1610), at least a comtemporary.
> -Helen/Aidan
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Post your free ad now! Yahoo! Canada Personals
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Deredere Galbraith wrote:
> I am looking for pictures of number 114.
> Unfortionally her site has been deleted.
> Since I want to recreate this dress too I would love to see how this 
> person has done it.

Someone started a Yahoo Group to discuss things on the site; asking 
there might be a good start.  It's linked from the AIPON site.


-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

Vote early, vote often!
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>>> ingridgs@techarea.net 03/03/04 08:41:27 >>>
The main site is here
http://www.hantverkslagret.org/hantverkslagret/index.asp 
, and a direct link to the picture galleries is
here :
http://www.hantverkslagret.org/hantverkslagret/tidigare_verksamhet/kronoberg_2003/s_2003.asp

.

What stunning pictures! I like the rebec-player's pouch with an owl
embroidered on it.

_____________

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby
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From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
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Carol wrote:
>
> >Indeed, but by definition a book published 50 years ago, before
even
> >the Kyoto Costume Institute existed, can hardly have reflected the
> >holdings of that museum. Norah Waugh died in 1966, also long before
> >the foundation of the KCI.
>
>      I'm not sure what you mean here.  I was suggesting Corsets &
Crinolines as
> a source for more examples of stays.  I didn't think C&C had drafts
of any of
> the stays in Kyoto, I think they are from English collections.

I'm getting more confused. Waugh only gives one example of a real set
of 18th century stays before 1780 and those are front lacing, dated
1730-40 of unspecified origin; see page 39. Why therefore do you
suggest that Corset and Crinolines supports the view that the most
common English 18th century stays were back lacing? Indeed, she stated
at page 41 "There is variation also in the methods of lacing, centre
back, centre front, or both; a side lacing seems to have been used for
pregnancy'.
Her references to Garsault and Diderot's work contained several
errors, which she partially rectified in 'The Cut of Women's Clothes'.
Unfortunately, her instructions on how to construct an 18th century
corset on pages 153-5 of C&C reproduce those errors, and it is those
comments, starting with 'There are two kinds of stays; those which are
laced up the back only, and those which are laced up both back and
front.' which are cited and relied upon by people who cannot be
bothered to read the full text of this and all her later works.

But in any event, why do you imagine that a French publication, even
if she had managed to get it right,  is an authoritative source on
English clothing construction? I am interested in reproducing the
stays worn by English aristocratic women between approximately 1750
and 1770. The relevant stays in the Kyoto collection are of English
origin, and by definition are of direct relevance for my purposes.
They could not have been cited by Waugh in her work published in 1954
since she did not know about them. By the time of her death in 1966
('The Cut of Women's Clothes' was published posthumously in 1968)
Norah Waugh had become aware of at least some of her errors in
Garsault's work, as noted above, and its identification of corps a
l'anglaise, the front lacing English stays, hence its inclusion in her
last book.  To take another example of the dangers of relying
uncritically on her work: Waugh states categorically that hooks and
eyes were not used in 18th century clothes production. That is simply
not true.


>
> >No, it doesn't. Incidentally, Norah Waugh gives the diagram etc. of
> >'corps a l'anglaise' under the heading "Eighteenth-century Tailors'
> >and Dressmakers' Patterns' at page 107 The Cut of Women's Clothes,
> >No.12 at the top of the page.
>
>      I found the Diderot plates here:
> http://www.contouche.de/en/1700/schnitte/s1700a.shtml


You are confusing Diderot with Garsault, see my notes above. As I
noted in the part of my earlier post which you have cut:

> >Incidentally, Garsault asserts, in 'Description des Artes et
> >Metiers', Paris, 1769, in his observations on stay makers, that
> >English stays (corps a l'anglaise) lace in front, and he gives a
> >diagram.


>      The web page identifies the English stays as closed front, and
there is a
> set of open-front French stays, which are both front & back lacing.
Diderot
> did illustrate other stays that are not on this page, so maybe
you're citing a
> different plate.

I am citing the original plates created for Garsault's work, not the
subsequent rehashes thereof.
If you had read further down the web page you are citing you would
have seen that the creator of the webpage gives the source as follows:

'Source: Diderot, Denis, and d'Alembert. Recueil des Planches sur les
Sciences, les Arts Liberaux, et les Arts Mechaniques: Vol. IX, 1771

Note: The plates these patterns were hand-copied from are very similar
to those from Description des Arts et Métiers by Garsault 1769 but
still slightly different. The maker of the plates probably copied much
of Garsault's "L'art du tailleur", whose plates date to the
1750s/60s.'

 The whole point of carefully considering the origins of illustrations
and articles
of any kind is that it is only too easy for alterations and errors to
creep in as they are copied.
>
> >Actually, what I said was 'I think [it] was reasonably common
practise
> >judging from my research so far'.
>
>      Right, and I wondered about that because I and other
researchers think
> that front-lacing-only was uncommon.

But you still haven't cited any evidence which you base your opinions
on.

>  There are a few examples,
certainly
> enough that making stays that way is correct.  Most people I know
are looking
> for what was the most common or average when making repro clothing.

Not, I hope, when reproducing a high fashion garment and its
underpinnings. I try for accuracy. Common and average is the last
thing which I want, and an English aristocratic woman of the period
would have been incredulous at the idea.


> >My question was as to the statistical basis of any sampling
exercise;
> >peoples' conclusions are not relevant to that question. But I
should,
> >of course, be most interested in any published research you can
point
> >me to on the question of aristocratic womens' stays in England
during
> >the relevant period.
>
>      If you want to hear more about what is out there in other
books, museums,
> and private collections, I still recommend the 18cWoman list.  Most
listmembers
> focus on American costume of the 1770s, but have looked at earlier &
later
> examples.  As a colony of England, the prevailing fashion in America
was the
> same, both from imported goods and fashion magazines that came from
England.

I am not aware of any fashion magazines in England sent to the English
colonies in America before 1770 or so. Perhaps you would identify
these sources for me? The entire concept of a fashion magazine didn't
exist before the early 1770's; see pages 61-63 Dress in Eighteenth
Century Europe, Ribeiro, rev. edition, 2002. Dressed dolls were sent
from England, predominantly to Boston, where they were hired out for
people to copy, mostly not very well. As for the belief that American
fashion could mirror the heights of the art achieved in Western Europe
during that period, I am not aware of
any garment created in the colonies which could make that claim.
Again, I would be most interested in any example you could point to. I
do appreciate that it may appear undemocratic, but haute couture
exists on the bedrock of luxury trade and luxury industries, none of
which existed in America at the time. Importing silks from Europe was,
of course, possible, but without the people with the skills needed to
create the garments there could be no haute couture. For that matter,
the cheap knock-offs of couture garments which are mass produced today
depend on an industrial revolution which had not taken place.  There
were no ready made dresses; all individuals in the colonies who
aspired to something beyond  'Barbie dressed as an English
gentlewoman' could do
was to send their measurements and thus import expensive knock-offs
which bore little resemblance to the real thing, or visit Europe in
the hope of getting gowns made which were the real thing, but which
were out of date by the time the ship had reached America on their
return voyage.

>
>      Back to front-lacing stays - the main disadvantage of front
lacing stays
> is you don't have the horizontal bones that give such a nice rounded
shape at
> the top.  The effect is most pronounced in the 1780s, but the
horizontal bones
> were used earlier.

Your assumption is ill founded;  I am constructing my front lacing
stays with horizontal bones, and it creates a rounded shape. Again, if
you look at page 130, Fashion, you will see that the front lacing
stays do have horizontal bones.


>
>      My favorite draft is from Corsets & Crinolies, a mid-century
set of stays
> that lace both front & back, with a stomacher as part of the stays.

I can't find these, what page are they on, please?

best wishes
Stevie



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: amiperiodornot
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In a message dated 3/2/2004 11:37:23 PM Central Standard Time, 
otsisto@socket.net writes:
Ok, so it was Germanic and not English
but it may have happened but not painted.

Arian


There is also a Venetian portrait of a bride wearing off-white.  It wasn't 
"customary" as it is today, but that doesn't mean that it wasn't done.  In fact, 
it would have indicated the wealth and prosperity of the bride's family 
::smile::.

-Tiffany
Reflections*of*Worth
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Dear Stevie,
Are you construkting your stays after garsaults pattern then?
That will be very interresting to se. I have never made after those old patterns, but used Norah Waughs and Janet Arnold.
In Köhlers History of Fashion, there also is an interresting pair of stays. They are back laced. The front has a linning wich is narrower than the outer fully boned part, wich makes the pointed waist curve outwards. I made this pair of stays once, and it almost killed my fingers, because it was so hard to sew the narrow piece to the larger outer layer.
But the result was very beautifull.
It also is very hard for the finger muscles to sew the horizontal bones on top of the vertical ones.
It is a shame that you dont have a webpage, do you take any pictures of the stays you are making?
I would not mind posting those on my server. I am sure that many of us would be very very interrested in seing your stays.

Bjarne  




Leif og Bjarne Drews
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From: Angela Kessler <ivyharpdotcom@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] ...this picture? and a Request
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--- "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
wrote:
> Yeah, so what is it about those pictures which
> screams Victorian?  I felt
> the same way about it and have been trying to figure
> out what it is in my
> own head.  Is it the realisim? Also the angle of her
> head seems Victorian to
> me....does that sound weird or what?
> 

Interesting and timely (for me) discussion, as I'm
currently reading "Seeing Through Clothes" by Anne
Hollander.  It's a very academic discussion of this
very topic, the idea that at any point in history
(including today) there was a general idea of what
looked "normal" and "natural", and painters (and other
visual artists) laid historical and allegorical
details on top of that.  Given the accepted baseline,
a Victorian audience would see this painting as
clearly historical, while our eye, at a distance, sees
it as Victorian.  An interesting read.

***On a related note, I would like to make a general
request that when you're discussing a painting, please
keep the URL in your message, even if you delete
everything else from previous messages.

Many of these followup comments sounded good, but I
couldn't look for myself because I deleted the
original post yesterday.  And I have tried simply
keeping the original post in case of further
discussion, but then my mailbox gets cluttered with
old messages because there's no trigger that a
discussion is over and I can go back and delete the
original reference.

Thanks!
-Angela

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Hi,
I just want to burst out a little. An american magazine called CQMagOnline has asked me to make an artikle about the waistcoat i am making with silk ribbon embroidery.
This will be great fun

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
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Can anyone tell me more about this book? I'm having a hard time finding 
out what the contents are, other than a single review which compares it 
to _Fashion in detail - 17th & 18th Century_. Is it entirely pictures? 
Is there any commentary? Diagrams? What are the years that are covered?

My husband's employer is offering books from this publisher at half 
price, and this is about the only costume book we can find on the list.



Dawn



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Subject: RE: [h-cost] writing an artikle 
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Congratulations!!! Perhaps you will get some of the recognitions you most
honorably deserve for such incredible work!!!
-Megan

Bjarne wrote:
Hi,
I just want to burst out a little. An american magazine called CQMagOnline
has asked me to make an artikle about the waistcoat i am making with silk
ribbon embroidery.
This will be great fun

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From: "Dianne & Greg Stucki" <goofy1@suscom.net>
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References: <003701c40164$419c5ba0$4096fea9@CPQ21932199711>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] writing an artikle 
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Congratulations, Bjarne! You're going to be famous, and we will all say "We
knew him when..."!

Dianne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2004 4:12 PM
Subject: [h-cost] writing an artikle


Hi,
I just want to burst out a little. An american magazine called CQMagOnline
has asked me to make an artikle about the waistcoat i am making with silk
ribbon embroidery.
This will be great fun

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
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From: "Jennifer Sena" <distantdesigns@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Pictures in Sweden, last summer
Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2004 13:45:09 -0800
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On the last page of pictures, the second and third pics show a head wrap.  
Can anyone tell me how to make/wear one?  It's just white with some way of 
wrapping it, but I love the look.  Since I'm launching into 11th century I 
hope it fits.  Either way, if someone knows how or where to find out how, 
please email me at distantdesigns@hotmail.com .

Thanks,


Jennifer Sena
Distant Designs
http://home.teleport.com/~cedric/distdesi

I wont hurt you, I just want to dress you up!!





>From: Ingrid G. Storrø <ingridgs@techarea.net>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] Pictures from an event in Sweden, last summer
>Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 09:41:27 +0100 (CET)
>
>Hi, all! I only just realized that they've put up pictures from a
>wonderful event I attended last summer, Hantverkslägret (Camp of Crafts)
>in Kronoberg, Sweden. It was a mixed-period event, ranging mostly from
>9th/10th to late 14th century, where the participants came to perform
>period crafts together for a bit over a week. I thought maybe some of
>you would enjoy the pictures. :) Unfortunatly it was so hot that a lot
>of people left their wool layers off for the workday, especially those
>working around fires, so some of the best costumes aren't pictured
>because it was so dark when people put them on. :/
>
>The main site is here
>http://www.hantverkslagret.org/hantverkslagret/index.asp
>, and a direct link to the picture galleries is
>here :
>http://www.hantverkslagret.org/hantverkslagret/tidigare_verksamhet/kronoberg_2003/s_2003.asp
>.
>
>It's all in Swedish I'm afraid, but the seven picture galleries should
>be easy enough to navigate anyway. :)
>
>Ingrid
>
>--
>This email has been scanned for viruses & spam by Decna as - www.decna.no
>Denne E-post er sjekket for virus & spam av Decna as - www.decna.no
>
>
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Way to go, I am so excited for you :):):)
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2004 1:12 PM
Subject: [h-cost] writing an artikle


Hi,
I just want to burst out a little. An american magazine called CQMagOnline
has asked me to make an artikle about the waistcoat i am making with silk
ribbon embroidery.
This will be great fun

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
_______________________________________________
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Huzzah, Bjarne!! 8)

Warmest congratulations, and hope this is but the start of your writing
career!

Arlys

On Wed, 3 Mar 2004 22:12:37 +0100 "Bjarne og Leif Drews"
<drewscph@post12.tele.dk> writes:
> Hi,
> I just want to burst out a little. An american magazine called 
> CQMagOnline has asked me to make an artikle about the waistcoat i am 
> making with silk ribbon embroidery.
> This will be great fun
> 
> Bjarne


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Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2004 14:54:59 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Modern Fashion in Detail
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>Can anyone tell me more about this book?

Buy it.

>I'm having a hard time finding out what the contents are, other than a 
>single review which compares it to _Fashion in detail - 17th & 18th Century_.

It covers all of the 20th century, as well as can be expected from a book 
as short as it is.

>Is it entirely pictures? Is there any commentary? Diagrams? What are the 
>years that are covered?

Mostly images - nice clear color close-ups, with enough diagrams that you 
know what you're seeing in the image, and enough text to get a feel for 
what you're looking at.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] writing an artikle 
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woo hoo! Go Bjarne.  Well, I can say how we are all NOT very
surprised!  Bout time, huh? Perhaps this is the beginning!  I
can't wait to see you on Fashion Eye for the Costume Guy...

a
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2004 1:12 PM
Subject: [h-cost] writing an artikle


Hi,
I just want to burst out a little. An american magazine called
CQMagOnline has asked me to make an artikle about the waistcoat i
am making with silk ribbon embroidery.
This will be great fun

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
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Hi all, just checking to see if things are up and running properly...

Sheridan


*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*
You are only young once, 
but you can stay immature indefinitely.

Ogden Nash

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] writing an artikle 
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>and we will all say "We
>knew him when..."!

When what?  He's famous here.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
             ////-@@\\\
            ((((   7 )))
             (((  <> ))))
                )   ((((((
           /----\   /---\))

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Its about time!  Now we just have to get you into the Vintage Costume Mag
where you so rightfully belong!

Congratulations!


Sg

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] silk ribbon embroidery
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Bjarne--

I just got back from a visit to London, and saw an example of silk
ribbon embroidery on a waistcoat and jacket at Kensington Palace. The
date was about 1780. The funny thing is, I thought immediately of you
when I saw it.

KIM

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Monday, March 01, 2004 3:33 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] silk ribbon embroidery

Hi,
I have tryed very hard to find any informations about when silk ribbon
embroidery was invented. A swedish website told me that it was used in
the end of 18th century, for gentlemens waistcoats and jackets. It also
told me that there were examples to se at Nordiska Musset in Stockholm.
I know this is a little hassardious job i have done, but i absolutely
fell in love with this embroidery and started to make myself a
waistcoat:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/chenillesuit.htm
I now have 9 days to make the right side of the waistcoat + 2 pocket
flaps and assembly of the waistcoat. I simply wont go without this
waistcoat. Travelling to the gustavians in Sweden next thursday.
Does any of you know how old silk ribbon embroidery is?

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
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Hi, All. I just had to chime in on this one... When I first saw this 
site, I thought "oh, gee, here's a place where you can go and get picked 
apart by any knucklehead that has an opinion" (and we know what opinions 
are like, yes?, and how everyone has one?) Let's face it, if you don't 
like potential abuse, you are probably best not suited for this site. It 
has the opportunity to be all bad things to all people, regardless of 
where their costume/clothing tradition stems from. I would like to see 
someone try a test... submit pictures of some well-known professionals' 
work and see how brutal it can get. It seems like a site where those 
folks who are desperate to pass on some misfortune they may have had in 
their life, perhaps someone who made fun of them in school or some such 
thing. I would hope that, aside from the odd lurk here and there from 
those who are looking to see how things are with the unfortunate, sad 
people, that most of the professionals here (and I do consider y'all to 
be, for the most part, professionals at historical clothing/costuming) 
would shy away from such obvious sophomoric shenanigans.  Mike T. (who 
hasn't been called Bitch, at least in recent memory, and never without a 
"suitable" response)

Bice d'Este wrote:

>And yet people keep using the site. 
>Bice (who isn't called The Bitch for nothing)
>
>  
>
>  
>

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From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <007c01c40134$bdfd0760$4096fea9@CPQ21932199711>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] mid18th century busks and stomachers
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Bjarne wrote:


>Are you construkting your stays after garsaults pattern then?

As best I can, yes. I think it's probably more of a diagram than a
pattern, though:-)  I am more concerned with getting it to fit my
somewhat unusual shape. I am very low waisted, and the gap between my
ribcage and hip bone is about 3-4 cms (less than 2 inches) so bog
standard tabs don't really work. It's a useful reminder that garments
of these kinds had to be individually made for each person. I am
adding a horizontal bone on each side at the front top.

>In Köhlers History of Fashion, there also is an interresting pair of
stays. They are back >laced. The front has a linning wich is narrower
than the outer fully boned part, wich >makes the pointed waist curve
outwards. I made this pair of stays once, and it almost >killed my
fingers, because it was so hard to sew the narrow piece to the larger
outer >layer.
>But the result was very beautifull.
>It also is very hard for the finger muscles to sew the horizontal
bones on top of the vertical ones.

I know! I've put the vertical and diagonal bones in machined channels
in two layers of linen, but the horizontal bones I've enclosed in
tape. I've then hand sewn that to the linen inside of the stays. I've
put some tension on bracing the ends so that the rounded curve
remains, but my fingers really don't like it! The English 'Fashion'
stays show horizontal as well as vaguely vertical bones, but I don't
know whether there are two layers or one. The French stays with
horizontal bones seem to have two layers of boning.


>It is a shame that you dont have a webpage, do you take any pictures
of the stays you are making?
>I would not mind posting those on my server. I am sure that many of
us would be very >very interrested in seing your stays.

That's very kind. What I really need is a camera which will take
close-ups; my present one has to be 4 feet away, which isn't going to
enlighten anyone. I shall be making another set later on, so by then I
may have a camera which would be of some use


best wishes
Stevie

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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Pictures in Sweden, last summer
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 23:11:09 -0600
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This looks like the common working class head wrap. There are various ways
to wrap and I can't seem to be able to describe how to in writing. You will
need a rectangular piece of linen, silk or cotton.

De

<n the last page of pictures, the second and third pics show a head wrap.
Can anyone tell me how to make/wear one?  It's just white with some way of
wrapping it, but I love the look.  Since I'm launching into 11th century I
hope it fits.  Either way, if someone knows how or where to find out how,
please email me at distantdesigns@hotmail.com .

Thanks,


Jennifer Sena
Distant Designs
http://home.teleport.com/~cedric/distdesi

I wont hurt you, I just want to dress you up!!





>From: Ingrid G. Storrø <ingridgs@techarea.net>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] Pictures from an event in Sweden, last summer
>Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 09:41:27 +0100 (CET)
>
>Hi, all! I only just realized that they've put up pictures from a
>wonderful event I attended last summer, Hantverkslägret (Camp of Crafts)
>in Kronoberg, Sweden. It was a mixed-period event, ranging mostly from
>9th/10th to late 14th century, where the participants came to perform
>period crafts together for a bit over a week. I thought maybe some of
>you would enjoy the pictures. :) Unfortunatly it was so hot that a lot
>of people left their wool layers off for the workday, especially those
>working around fires, so some of the best costumes aren't pictured
>because it was so dark when people put them on. :/
>
>The main site is here
>http://www.hantverkslagret.org/hantverkslagret/index.asp
>, and a direct link to the picture galleries is
>here :
>http://www.hantverkslagret.org/hantverkslagret/tidigare_verksamhet/kronober
g_2003/s_2003.asp
>.
>
>It's all in Swedish I'm afraid, but the seven picture galleries should
>be easy enough to navigate anyway. :)
>
>Ingrid
>
>--
>This email has been scanned for viruses & spam by Decna as - www.decna.no
>Denne E-post er sjekket for virus & spam av Decna as - www.decna.no
>
>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] ...this picture? and a Request
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Thanks so much for the lead on a new read....I'll try to remember to not
delete urls...makes sense to me~

Sg

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Angela Kessler

> 

Interesting and timely (for me) discussion, as I'm
currently reading "Seeing Through Clothes" by Anne
Hollander.  It's a very academic discussion of this
very topic, the idea that at any point in history
(including today) there was a general idea of what
looked "normal" and "natural", and painters (and other
visual artists) laid historical and allegorical
details on top of that.  Given the accepted baseline,
a Victorian audience would see this painting as
clearly historical, while our eye, at a distance, sees
it as Victorian.  An interesting read.

***On a related note, I would like to make a general
request that when you're discussing a painting, please
keep the URL in your message, even if you delete
everything else from previous messages.

Many of these followup comments sounded good, but I
couldn't look for myself because I deleted the
original post yesterday.  And I have tried simply
keeping the original post in case of further
discussion, but then my mailbox gets cluttered with
old messages because there's no trigger that a
discussion is over and I can go back and delete the
original reference.

Thanks!
-Angela

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] My guilty pleasure.
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On Wednesday, March 3, 2004, at 07:37  PM, michael tartaglio wrote:
>  would like to see someone try a test... submit pictures of some 
> well-known professionals' work and see how brutal it can get.

Well, I don't know if you'd consider us "professionals" but people with 
well-known and widely referenced websites (myself and Drea, for 
instance) have put costumes up on AIPON and taken some pretty brutal 
snarking as a result.  It's not like you can win either way.  If people 
want to be jerks, they will stop at nothing.

I'd also like to address the misconception that if you put Elizabethan 
clothing up on that site, people respond to it better.  Sorry, but it's 
just not true.  I think some of the harshest criticism has been 
directed at people who post late-period clothing, both fancy and 
"middle class".  Read through the comments on the following pictures:

http://amiperiodornot.com/details.mhtml?image_id=91
http://amiperiodornot.com/details.mhtml?image_id=94
http://amiperiodornot.com/details.mhtml?image_id=138

And then my personal favorite comment left regarding the image I 
submitted:

"Your getting a one for the same reason the girl Kobe raped, you 
deserve it .  Show some skin to win! "

Yeah.  We're dealing with the cream of the crop here.

Also there's the vote abusers.  The people who post things to people's 
pictures (particularly late period folks) saying "I'm giving this a 1 
because I hate that everyone does Elizabethan clothing".  So they vote 
about a zillion times, regardless of the "vote abuse" thing that logs 
repeat offenders' IP addresses at the bottom of most of the pages, 
either driving down the score or driving it up insanely high.  The 
thing with IP addresses is that not every service provider offers a 
binded IP address to each subscriber.  In fact, most major service 
providers don't do this.  AOL, SBC, Earthlink, they all have multiple 
IP addresses so any time you log on, you're assigned a different 
address.  So logging IP addresses is basically useless because the 
chances of anyone tracking it back to you via Whois or google is pretty 
darn slim.

Anyway, I'm getting off the point.  The point is that the site was 
originally intended to be a joke.  Kirrily started it to poke fun at 
the "am I hot or not" sites that were popular a few years back.  
Whether or not it's still a joke site is in the eye of the beholder...

Sarah
http://www.modehistorique.com
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] My guilty pleasure.
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 01:01:23 -0600
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#91 The comment about the top not being smooth or well fitted amazes me. Do
they think that people in that time period have well fitted non wrinkled
clothing. So people back then worked in the nude so they wouldn't have
wrinkles in their cloths? Huh?
#94 I came across that last night. OMG Gorgeous! Some of the people voted
her less period because she used a cotton velvet, Reasoning - others used
"period" fabrics on other sites (which were  earlier period styles). These
people do not take into account the complexity of the outfit nor do they
read the reasons she ended up with choosing the cotton material.
The more I look through this website the more I need to see it only once a
week so that I do not get swept up in some of the stupidity (for lack of a
better description).

Anyway, there is not enough space to write my comments.
And there seems to be commenters with hat or head cover fixation. I think it
was #473 they kept saying she needed a hat (I think 90% of the sites say
outfit needs a hat or head covering). Though she said it was a portrait of
Isabelle of Portugal 1535, it is actually a 1548 portrait. All but 1
portrait that I have found of Isabella have no hats or head coverings. Just
braid work and a few jewels.

De
PS other than #94 as my fav. #291 is my second fav. :)

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Mar  4 02:35:56 2004
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Subject: [h-cost] Update about pomander
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Greetings One and All,

    For everyone who is interestested in hearing about my progress with 
the 14th-15th C. pomander.  Well, last term in my jewelry class - the 
project hit a snag.  Because my instructor insisted that I used two 
types of metals.  Unfortunately, I found out that sterling silver and 
German silver do not work well together on larger pieces.  But where I 
failed, I did get a great pair of earrings and necklace pendant (when I 
get the web site up and going I will place the pictures of them on the 
site).
    I was able to talk my instructor in taking me on as an independent 
study.  This means during this coming fall term, I will be able to 
completely concentrate on the pomander and do it the way I want to do 
it.  Hurray!  I also found recent reference to a copper pomander of the 
14th C.  that was enameled,  hoping to research it more and maybe 
recreate it in the future
     Even with some of these setbacks and such, I did win an art 
scholarship for this term and also was placed on the Dean of Education's 
honor roll list.  -blush-
      Must go back to the books....

Roscelin


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Mar  4 02:48:22 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] My guilty pleasure.
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> #91 The comment about the top not being smooth or well fitted amazes 
> me. Do
> they think that people in that time period have well fitted non 
> wrinkled
> clothing. So people back then worked in the nude so they wouldn't have
> wrinkles in their cloths? Huh?

<sarcasim>

What, doesn't everyone know that wrinkles aren't period?

</sarcasim>

Seriously.  Because of AIPON I've compiled a huge database of portraits 
painted between 1500 and 1600 of women in gowns with clearly defined 
stress wrinkles across the front of their bodices.  I'm so sick of 
people either implying or saying outright that wrinkles on bodices is 
historically incorrect!  There's a HUGE difference between a bodice 
that wrinkles because it's poorly fitted and one that wrinkles because 
it's well fitted.  :P

> #94 I came across that last night. OMG Gorgeous! Some of the people 
> voted
> her less period because she used a cotton velvet, Reasoning - others 
> used
> "period" fabrics on other sites (which were  earlier period styles). 
> These
> people do not take into account the complexity of the outfit nor do 
> they
> read the reasons she ended up with choosing the cotton material.
> The more I look through this website the more I need to see it only 
> once a
> week so that I do not get swept up in some of the stupidity (for lack 
> of a
> better description).

My dress has a couple of comments directed at my choice of materials, 
too.  Basically, you can rationalize and explain why you did XYZ thing 
in this outfit until you're blue in the face, but it goes right past 
'em.  Yeah, like any of us can afford true silk brocade with 100% gold 
threads woven through it.  For me, lurex works just as well and it's 
affordable.  Cotton velvet is totally acceptable in my book, too, 
especially because it has a denser quality to it than any other fiber 
used in affordable velvet.  But there seems to be a contingency of 
people on AIPON who like to insist that if you can't afford to do an 
upper class Elizabethan gown in totally 100% historically available 
fabrics, you shouldn't bother.

Generally, however, it's been accepted by the AIPON community that the 
definition of "Am I period or not" translates into "Can you plop me 
down in X Century and I'll blend in so well with the locals that no one 
would notice I'm a 21st century costumer, regardless of the fiber 
content of my outfit?"  Because, like, everyone went around burn 
testing everyone elses' clothing back in the day just to make sure...

;)

Sarah
http://www.modehistorique.com

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Mar  4 02:54:54 2004
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Subject: [h-cost] Western Mass. costume museums?
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Hi all,

I'm going to be spending next week in Northampton, Mass. doing research at
Smith College.  While I'm there I'm going to have one morning (Weds.) free,
and I'm wondering if there are any good costume museums I should see while
I'm out there?  I know Historic Northampton has a costume collection, but
I'm not sure what they have on view... I was all excited about going to the
Memorial House Museum at Old Deerfield, but found out they don't open until
later in the year :(

Any recommendations?  I will have a car, but like I said I'll only have
until about noon for fun activities.

Thanks,

Kendra
http://demode.tweedlebop.com/

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Mar  4 03:26:53 2004
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Oh, and I should mention that I used to live in Boston, so that plus time
constraints means I'm definitely looking for things to do in the Northampton
area.

Thanks!

- Kendra

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To: Jennifer Sena <distantdesigns@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Pictures in Sweden, last summer
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On Wed, 3 Mar 2004, Jennifer Sena wrote:
> On the last page of pictures, the second and third pics show a head wrap.
> Can anyone tell me how to make/wear one?  It's just white with some way of
> wrapping it, but I love the look.  Since I'm launching into 11th century I
> hope it fits.

That second picture on the last page is me (caught in an extremely
unflattering moment, I must say, on top of being disheveled after
standing over a dye pot and a fire in the sun all day. :) ) There's a
better pic of the head wrap (and me, in an appropriate wool dress not
just my underwear...) on page six, right pic in the second to last row,
where you can see the wrap a bit better the way it's supposed to look.

As De said these are usually done with rectangles of fabric, fine linen
works well. I misplaced mine before the event however, so I used a linen
triangle that I had made for some other headgear some years ago. The end
result looks pretty much the same though, although I did find that I got
the Maciejowski Bible look a bit better with the triangle than a
rectangle. That may just mean that I've wrapped my rectangle wrong,
though. :)

I'll try to explain how I wrap these with words, since I'm completely
unable to draw this. I start with my hair in a bun somewhere
between the middle of my head and the nape of the neck.

With a triangle:
My triangle is a bit more than a metre long on the longest side, and
about half a metre from that side down to the point. I think; I don't
have it here at work to measure it. How large it needs to be also
depends on head size and the amount of hair you have, so experiment with
cheap fabric first.
(0) if you want the look with a horizontal "stripe" across your forehead
like the one I have in the pic with the red dress, make one pleat before
you go to 1). ))
1) Find the middle of the longest edge and place that in the middle of
your forehead, covering as much of the forehead as you want the wrap to
do.
2) pull the ends back and cross them at the neck, below your bun and
beneath the flap that the triangle leaves. You'll tuck that in later.
3) twist the ends so that they become fairly tight spiralled rolls
4) wrap the twisted ends up on your head
5) wrap the ends tightly along each other like when you start to tie a
knot but don't actually complete it; just spiral them down each other's
lengths. Pin if you need more security; I don't for this type of wrap.
6) in the back, tuck the flap down in under the rest of the now tight
wrap to keep it out of the way and to cover the bun completely.

With a rectangle:
I find that a rectangle of about 1/2 metre x 2 metres is good, although
that gives a bit more body to the wrap than what you see in the pics of
me in the triangle one. Others may prefer a shorter one.
(0) if you want the look with a horizontal "stripe" across your forehead
like the one I have in the pic with the red dress, make one pleat before
you go to 1). ))
1) Find the middle of the longest edge and place that in the middle of
your forehead, covering as much of the forehead as you want the wrap to
do.
2) pull the ends back and cross them at the neck, below your bun. Make
sure the bun is covered with fabric.
3) twist the ends so that they become fairly tight spiralled rolls
4) wrap the twisted ends up and back down again around your head. Fiddle
with it until it looks nice.
5) Depending on the length of your wrap, you may now either just wrap
the ends tightly along each other like when you start to tie a knot but
don't actually complete it; just spiral them down each other's lengths.
Or, if you have a lot of fabric left you can bring it up to the side of
you face again and pin it in place there.

Is it appropriate for 11th century? I have no idea, although I have a
feeling that it may not be. Where I've seen it most is 13th and early
14th century, but that may be because that's the only place I've really
looked for it. ;)

Ingrid

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pictures in Sweden, last summer
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Hi!

All you need is a large square piece of linen or cotton folded into a
triangle, (or simply a large triangular piece) that once placed will have
corners long enough to wrap around your head at least once.

Fold your square cloth into a triangle and center the folded part of the
cloth comfortably on your forhead. Grab the two corners hanging off the
sides of your head and tie them once under your hair at the back of your
neck. Now to get the look in the pictures all you need to do is individually
twist the heck out of the two pieces you just tied, then wrap them back over
your forehead and either tuck them back in on themselves, or if they are
long enough, tie them back under your hair again. To get that nice tidy cap
look, now all you need to do is tuck your hair up under the remaining corner
at the back of your head, grab the loose corner and tuck it in at the nape
of your neck under the knot. Done!

Turban style head wraps are very comfortable, and once you figure out the
look you like, very easy to do. A tip I learned a few years ago for those
hot hot summer events, either soak the headwrap in water before you put it
on, or if you are wearing a particularily bulky wrap, tuck icecubes in
around the hairline. Mmmm, frosty! :-)

I hope this was helpful!

Sheridan


Subject: RE: [h-cost] Pictures in Sweden, last summer


> On the last page of pictures, the second and third pics show a head wrap.
> Can anyone tell me how to make/wear one?  It's just white with some way of
> wrapping it, but I love the look.  Since I'm launching into 11th century I
> hope it fits.  Either way, if someone knows how or where to find out how,
> please email me at distantdesigns@hotmail.com .
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Jennifer Sena
> Distant Designs
> http://home.teleport.com/~cedric/distdesi
>
> I wont hurt you, I just want to dress you up!!
>
>
>
>
>
> >From: Ingrid G. Storrø <ingridgs@techarea.net>
> >Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> >To: h-costume@indra.com
> >Subject: [h-cost] Pictures from an event in Sweden, last summer
> >Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 09:41:27 +0100 (CET)
> >
> >Hi, all! I only just realized that they've put up pictures from a
> >wonderful event I attended last summer, Hantverkslägret (Camp of Crafts)
> >in Kronoberg, Sweden. It was a mixed-period event, ranging mostly from
> >9th/10th to late 14th century, where the participants came to perform
> >period crafts together for a bit over a week. I thought maybe some of
> >you would enjoy the pictures. :) Unfortunatly it was so hot that a lot
> >of people left their wool layers off for the workday, especially those
> >working around fires, so some of the best costumes aren't pictured
> >because it was so dark when people put them on. :/
> >
> >The main site is here
> >http://www.hantverkslagret.org/hantverkslagret/index.asp
> >, and a direct link to the picture galleries is
> >here :
>
>http://www.hantverkslagret.org/hantverkslagret/tidigare_verksamhet/kronober
g_2003/s_2003.asp
> >.
> >
> >It's all in Swedish I'm afraid, but the seven picture galleries should
> >be easy enough to navigate anyway. :)
> >
> >Ingrid
> >
> >--
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Mar  4 06:49:13 2004
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From: Catherine Ussailis <ceu@equinox.shaysnet.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Western Mass. costume museums?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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  I live in Northampton and have only ever heard of the museum in Old 
Deerfield and the one at Smith. However, this year is our 350th anniversary 
and there are 
supposed to be some special exhibits/events going on. (Though, frankly, I 
expected a bit more. So far it's been a lecture here and there on 
semi-famous people who lived in the last ~150 years.) There might be 
something going on that hasn't been advertised. If you're going to 
Smith, I would actually ask them. I hear they have a fairly nice costume 
shop in the theatre dept plus that museum of theirs. There are also four 
other colleges in the area (Mt. Holyoke, UMASS at Amherst, Hampshire and 
Amherst College) that might have some sort of exhibit or would know of 
any interesting ones around. 
  The other people I might ask are the SCAdians in the area. I'm not in 
the SCA (yet), but do know that NOrthampton is in Bergental 
(www.bergental.org?)

  Now that I think of it, I believe there is some sort of exhibit in 
Sturbridge, MA at Sturbridge Village, but it is 1 1/2 hours away from 
NOrthampton. 

  Please feel free to email me privately if you have more questions about 
Northampton! (ceu@shaysnet.com)

Kate


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Subject: [h-cost] LATE 15TH CENTURY THROUGH 16TH CENTURY
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I think because RenFaires have been so popular for
awhile now, than many people consider themselves
experts in late period clothing. If there were more
fairs that focused on 12th, 13th & 14th century eras,
the same phenomena might occur for that.
I'd like to have some of that gold fabric from 291.


> 
> I'd also like to address the misconception that if
> you put Elizabethan 
> clothing up on that site, people respond to it
> better.  Sorry, but it's 
> just not true.  I think some of the harshest
> criticism has been 
> directed at people who post late-period clothing,
> both fancy and 
> "middle class".  Read through the comments on the
> following pictures:
> 
> http://amiperiodornot.com/details.mhtml?image_id=91
> http://amiperiodornot.com/details.mhtml?image_id=94
> http://amiperiodornot.com/details.mhtml?image_id=138
> 
> And then my personal favorite comment left regarding
> the image I 
> submitted:
> 
> "Your getting a one for the same reason the girl
> Kobe raped, you 
> deserve it .  Show some skin to win! "
> 
> Yeah.  We're dealing with the cream of the crop
> here.
> 
> Also there's the vote abusers.  The people who post
> things to people's 
> pictures (particularly late period folks) saying
> "I'm giving this a 1 
> because I hate that everyone does Elizabethan
> clothing".  So they vote 
> about a zillion times, regardless of the "vote
> abuse" thing that logs 
> repeat offenders' IP addresses at the bottom of most
> of the pages, 
> either driving down the score or driving it up
> insanely high.  The 
> thing with IP addresses is that not every service
> provider offers a 
> binded IP address to each subscriber.  In fact, most
> major service 
> providers don't do this.  AOL, SBC, Earthlink, they
> all have multiple 
> IP addresses so any time you log on, you're assigned
> a different 
> address.  So logging IP addresses is basically
> useless because the 
> chances of anyone tracking it back to you via Whois
> or google is pretty 
> darn slim.
> 
> Anyway, I'm getting off the point.  The point is
> that the site was 
> originally intended to be a joke.  Kirrily started
> it to poke fun at 
> the "am I hot or not" sites that were popular a few
> years back.  
> Whether or not it's still a joke site is in the eye
> of the beholder...
> 
> Sarah
> http://www.modehistorique.com
> _______________________________________________
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=====
Señora Catalina
Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit


	
	
		
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <00d801c4018b$70196190$0201a8c0@kimathlon>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk ribbon embroidery
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 16:11:34 +0100
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Dear Kim.
A big big hug to you for that! <hurrayyy.
I was so nervous that perhaps this was not used by that time, so you have
made me very very happy.
Thanks a lot.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "kim baird" <kbaird@cableone.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2004 2:53 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] silk ribbon embroidery


> Bjarne--
>
> I just got back from a visit to London, and saw an example of silk
> ribbon embroidery on a waistcoat and jacket at Kensington Palace. The
> date was about 1780. The funny thing is, I thought immediately of you
> when I saw it.
>
> KIM
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
> On Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
> Sent: Monday, March 01, 2004 3:33 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] silk ribbon embroidery
>
> Hi,
> I have tryed very hard to find any informations about when silk ribbon
> embroidery was invented. A swedish website told me that it was used in
> the end of 18th century, for gentlemens waistcoats and jackets. It also
> told me that there were examples to se at Nordiska Musset in Stockholm.
> I know this is a little hassardious job i have done, but i absolutely
> fell in love with this embroidery and started to make myself a
> waistcoat:
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/chenillesuit.htm
> I now have 9 days to make the right side of the waistcoat + 2 pocket
> flaps and assembly of the waistcoat. I simply wont go without this
> waistcoat. Travelling to the gustavians in Sweden next thursday.
> Does any of you know how old silk ribbon embroidery is?
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> _______________________________________________
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From: KATHRYN WOLTERS <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Update about pomander
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Congrats --and well done!--cannot wait to see the pics--
Albra

Roscelin <roscelin@pcez.com> wrote:
Greetings One and All,

For everyone who is interestested in hearing about my progress with 
the 14th-15th C. pomander. Well, last term in my jewelry class - the 
project hit a snag. Because my instructor insisted that I used two 
types of metals. Unfortunately, I found out that sterling silver and 
German silver do not work well together on larger pieces. But where I 
failed, I did get a great pair of earrings and necklace pendant (when I 
get the web site up and going I will place the pictures of them on the 
site).
I was able to talk my instructor in taking me on as an independent 
study. This means during this coming fall term, I will be able to 
completely concentrate on the pomander and do it the way I want to do 
it. Hurray! I also found recent reference to a copper pomander of the 
14th C. that was enameled, hoping to research it more and maybe 
recreate it in the future
Even with some of these setbacks and such, I did win an art 
scholarship for this term and also was placed on the Dean of Education's 
honor roll list. -blush-
Must go back to the books....

Roscelin


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> something going on that hasn't been advertised. If you're going to
> Smith, I would actually ask them. I hear they have a fairly nice costume
> shop in the theatre dept plus that museum of theirs. There are also four
> other colleges in the area (Mt. Holyoke, UMASS at Amherst, Hampshire and
> Amherst College) that might have some sort of exhibit or would know of
> any interesting ones around.
>   Now that I think of it, I believe there is some sort of exhibit in
> Sturbridge, MA at Sturbridge Village, but it is 1 1/2 hours away from
> NOrthampton.

Hello - I'm a Sturbridge native and a Smith alum.  I've worked in the
Smith costume shop, but unfortunately I do not believe that they have much
in the way of actual period garments there, nor if memory serves anywhere
to display them if they did.  Deerfield would be the only obvious choice
in the neighborhood that I know of, but sadly they are seasonal.  I would
call Historic Northampton (www.historic-northampton.org) and see whether
they might be able to show you some of their collection, as they have a
large and fascinating collection including all kinds of clothing, quilts,
etc.

Sturbridge is an hour from Northampton along the Mass Pike.  I don't
believe that Old Sturbridge Village a clothing exhibit up at the moment,
though it's a pleasant enough "living history" museum.  It's probably not
worth the drive if you're only interested in costume items, though admission
is half price through the end of March.

Cheers,
Maura



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Kyoto is a wonderful reference.  I sleep with mine sometimes.  But I suspect
they have their own slant on things.

Like, their curatorial slant is toward things that are shiny.

And things that are Oriental/Japanese inspired or European/American but made of
oriental Fabric.

I still love both the Revolution In Fashion books and that big Fashion book the
one with all the 18th , 19th/ and 20th cent stuff.  I just wish the Big Fashion
book had a few more footnotes and accession information.  When comparing
pictures and notes in Revolution in Fashion and pictures in Big Fashion, I
suspect that some of the articles and accessories pictured are reconstructions,
or remakes using original and period materials.

And thanks for the comments on Patterns of fashion.  I've slept with that too.
Knowing that the pieces are not proofed like comercial patterns, and might not
fit together quite right/tight is a great help.

Mia in Charlotte
next week, HM 64th of Foot


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On Thu, 4 Mar 2004 15:01:47 +0000 (GMT)
=?iso-8859-1?q?Catalina=20Saravia=20Quicedo?= <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>
writes:
> I think because RenFaires have been so popular for
> awhile now, than many people consider themselves
> experts in late period clothing. If there were more
> fairs that focused on 12th, 13th & 14th century eras,
> the same phenomena might occur for that.
> I'd like to have some of that gold fabric from 291.
> 


        You know, I've been reading this thread, and read the comments
that were posted at the site about a couple pieces someone had put up
there.  Considering what I've seen said, just on the few notes here about
the pictures posted, I've been considering posting some of the "period"
stuff I've done, just to see how "period" they comment that it is.  It
all depends on the period, (Granted I KNOW we're discussing actual
HISTORICAL periods here) but at least at the AZ Ren, folks knew what my
hubby was talking about when he would say 10th Age (or whatever it was)
of the Hyborean period.  I love historical costume and am capable of
doing it, but I do more fantasy "historical" as witnessed on my costume
website listed in my sig (index page loads slow).  It's just that there's
too much that you have to worry about alot of the time, especially for LH
groups.  The advantage to fantasy is, I can easily take anything they
would say with a grain, because we don't do actual, factual historical
garb.  
        The group I'm with (in Denver, CO area) takes their costume ideas
from various fantasy based movies and television.  Alot of them are the
Hyborean period, one has a more mongolian look to him, I come more out of
Xena and Hercules television programs.  Heck, one of my planned pieces of
armor is from old pictures of Thor, when they had the episode with him on
the old Bill Bixby series, "The Incredible Hulk".  I've also got some
dragon warrior armor that I want to do, and it will be a matched set with
hubby's.  So, if anyone is going to the convention at the Marriot in
Denver April 16th-18th, give a shout.  The barbarian horde with be
wandering about, as well as hanging out in the bar.  I'll see about
getting a pic posted of the best group shot currently available (not
everyone was there... including myself), somewhere on the net and if
you're interested, I'll post the link back here.
        OK, time for breathing medicine again.  Got three days off work
because of it, so I need to also hit the fabric for some costume
accessories I need to get done by con as well.  So much to do, so little
time!

Astrid
Never argue with a dragon, for thou art crunchy and go well with Brie.
    http://www.geocities.com/tul_juriss - for links to ALL my current
sites
    http://www.geocities.com/astridofthehorde - costumes I've made
    http://www.geocities.com/house_qul_mupwi - The noble Klingon House
    http://www.geocities.com/klingon_pirates_guild - The Klingon Pirate's
Guild

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] LATE 15TH CENTURY THROUGH 16TH CENTURY
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In a message dated 3/4/2004 10:01:14 AM Central Standard Time, btana@juno.com 
writes:
I love historical costume and am capable of
doing it, but I do more fantasy "historical" as witnessed on my costume
website listed in my sig (index page loads slow).  


I think my biggest problem with killing myself for accuracy is this: no 
matter HOW HARD you try, how much time you put in, how much research you do, how 
much money you spend, you will STILL arrive at your first event in your ultra 
accurate garb, and some self-appointed Garb Grand Pooh-Bah will walk up to you, 
look you over head to toe, and comment upon the fact that your trim is 
inaccurate and your bodice doesn't have the right silhouette.  So I try to stay 
within the bounds of reason, and just have fun.  If people have a problem with it 
they can go discuss it with the guy in the plaid flannel kilt.

-Tiff
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] My personal favorite critique ROFL
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"Spot on. What wonderfully awful period colors. Is it Goose Turd or Flea?"

-Tiff
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Subject: [h-cost] Not quite so bad: was LATE 15TH CENTURY THROUGH 16TH
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Hey Tiff...   With respect, I disagree with your statement.

Tiff wrote:
"no matter HOW HARD you try, how much time you put in, how much research 
you do, how
much money you spend, you will STILL arrive at your first event in your 
ultra accurate garb,
and some self-appointed Garb Grand Pooh-Bah will walk up to you, look you 
over head to toe,
and comment upon the fact that your trim is inaccurate and your bodice 
doesn't have the right silhouette."

I know this scenario has happened to some folks,  but not to everyone, and 
not everytime.

Sincerely,
Bridgette


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In a message dated 3/4/2004 10:59:39 AM Central Standard Time, 
ms154@cornell.edu writes:
I know this scenario has happened to some folks,  but not to everyone, and 
not everytime.

Sincerely,
Bridgette


It was meant to be kind of humorous and tongue-in-cheek.  Everyone who 
researches historical costume has arrived at a unique view on what is and is not 
period because they've all gotten there through different sources.  What I have 
read in one source is absolutely documented and accurate, someone else may have 
read in a different source is a total anachronism.  So especially when you're 
trying to recreate Medieval or Renaissance era garb, you can come up with 
what your research has told you is perfectly period, but still have others (who 
are also well-educated and researched) disagree with what you're wearing.

If Drea Leed is getting snarked at on that site, then *no one* is safe!

-Tiff
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Garb Snarks (was: LATE 15TH CENTURY THROUGH 16TH CENTURY
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> 
>  you will STILL arrive at your first event in your ultra 
> accurate garb, and some self-appointed Garb Grand Pooh-Bah will walk up to you, 
> look you over head to toe, and comment upon the fact that your trim is 
> inaccurate and your bodice doesn't have the right silhouette.

You know, I've made some pretty awful 'garb' in the past, and a lot of 
fantasy inspired apparel, and worn it to all kinds of events, and nobody 
has ever said an unkind thing to me about it. Well, one person did 
comment that I was "dressed down" once, but I don't know if I could call 
that an insult, as I was wearing a rather plain t-tunic at the time.

I have received lots of compliments, anywhere from 'you look nice' 
unspecific ones, to words like "I love the hat" and "you look very 
period."  And my personal favorites, overheard by friends and told to me 
later, are when bystanders who think they are out of earshot whisper "I 
want THAT outfit" when I walk past.

I kind of wish that 20 years ago someone had said something to me, and 
pointed me on the right track, because as a beginner I had no clue what 
I was doing. On the other hand, I have no idea how to approach someone 
who probably needs help, now that I do know what I'm doing. Which is 
probably why I have the passive website for people who are looking to find.

Anyway, has anyone here ever really had a 'garb snark' in their face?



Dawn




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Date: Thu, 04 Mar 2004 09:34:02 -0800
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> I think my biggest problem with killing myself for accuracy is this:
> no matter HOW HARD you try, how much time you put in, how much
> research you do, how much money you spend, you will STILL arrive at
> your first event in your ultra accurate garb, and some self-appointed
> Garb Grand Pooh-Bah will walk up to you, look you over head to toe,
> and comment upon the fact that your trim is inaccurate and your bodice
> doesn't have the right silhouette.  

I think that this does happen. I certainly happened to me. However, 
despite the feeling that it is, in the SCA, the "Laurels" doing this, 
it's been my observation that it is more than likely a laurel-
wannabee. You know, the ones who think that they know something but 
it isn't reflected in what they say or do.

My very first event I had made a 12th C gown based on some drawings 
in Kohler (hey, it was one of the few around, but I didn't go for the 
"breast bag" stuff. I used it mostly for the sleeves.) I had made the 
pattern myself (although now I know it should have been rectangular 
construction rather than a modified princess seamed dress.) I was 
quite proud of it, but knew that there were problems. (I had put the 
train on wrong on the pattern and didn't discover it until I had cut 
it so I had to do some creative recutting to switch the sides of just 
the bottom of the train. I had also used a zipper over which I had 
put criss-crossed lacings.) 

I was standing after dinner looking out the window when a woman in a 
vaguely Italian Renaissance costume made of acetate lining taffeta 
with some of the worst gathering at the waist comes up to me and 
says, "Your train should be lined" and walks up. No preamble to a 
conversation, just "wham!" and walks off. I stood there in amazement 
that someone in such a badly constructed, badly fitted dress could do 
that. Her husband must have seen it and been embarrassed because he 
came up and told me "she must really admire your work. She rarely 
criticizes anything anyone does unless she thinks they know what they 
are doing. By the way, she is the one who helps people make their 
clothing and has made most all of the clothes that people in our 
canton wear. I'm so proud of her. She just got her award of arms (the 
lowest level award in the SCA) last week." Then he just walked off. 
(I still hadn't said a word to either of them. I just stared in 
continued amazement. However, at least I knew it wasn't one of the 
*real* top level costumers.)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Date: Thu, 04 Mar 2004 12:38:18 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: M Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Not quite so bad: was LATE 15TH CENTURY THROUGH
	16TH CENTURY
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AH!  I didn't see your intent.  ooops.  Now I understand.  - Thanks for the 
clarification...  ; >  Bridgette


>It was meant to be kind of humorous and tongue-in-cheek.
>
>-Tiff

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I just thought I would mention that Aurora Silk offers a thread chart see http://www.aurorasilk.com/shop/thread_samples.shtml   which contains samples of silk dyed with natural dyes.  Comes with a listing of what dyestuff was used for which threads.  I'm finding it most useful to assist in my colour/thread selections!

Lisa Sinervo
www.thrednedlestrete.com 
             
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Garb Snarks (was: LATE 15TH CENTURY THROUGH 16TH CENTURY
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 12:37:09 -0500
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To be blunt. Hell yes. Years ago I had gone to one of my first SCA-type
events and wore what was admittedly a really bad gown I was last minute
attending and hadn't even planned on going. Some worthy walked up and began
to pick the dress apart. I stood silently while she circled and said not a
thing until she was done and standing in front of me. She was still bitching
about machine stitches and lack of effort and how this was wrong and I
wasn't making an attempt at accuracy in my clothing etc. While she continued
to talk I simply reached up and took her glasses off her face polished them
ostentatiously and placed them back on her startled face, bowed and walked
away.

She still avoids me at events (the few I attend) and when someone asked me
why I had done it I explained that the incongruity of her screaming about no
effort at looking period while she wore black cat's eye glasses was simply
too much for me. (I wear contacts to events) What's sad is it's not the only
time I've been *snarked*. And don't even start on my Cow-hardie.

Bice
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2004 12:21 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Garb Snarks (was: LATE 15TH CENTURY THROUGH 16TH
CENTURY


> Anyway, has anyone here ever really had a 'garb snark' in their face?
>
>
>
> Dawn
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From: KATHRYN WOLTERS <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] LATE 15TH CENTURY THROUGH 16TH CENTURY
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Actually I agree , that it is more frequently  the 'Laurel wannabees' that I've heard the must blunt remarks from  in the SCA. And I've heard stuff off and on for the whole 32 years I've been in. I received a Laurel 20 some odd years ago. But  we all continue to try to grow and hopefully get better with age---and as I've learned something new --and gotten better research sources--(not least of which has been all the wonderful shared knowledge and inspirations from you folks!)I've tried to incorporate this 'newly found' knowledge--into my latest clothing. But no matter ---while  I've often gotten encouraging remarks--or constructive critcism--(which I always welcome)--there is usually some Self Styled Grand Pooh-Bah---with an indelicately worded comment--or sometimes it just takes the form of "The Look". You know the one I'm talking about---you can watch the eyes track every single item on your outfit that does not meet with their approval, as they silently purse their lips .!
   When I
 wear my Laurel medallion  I won't hear many comments to my face--although I might get "The Look'. However,  if I go to an multiKingdom event---without that medallion around my neck--I might  hear ALL sorts of comments. Usually NOT from other Laurels. Although, one of my very favorite was --'Really , My Lady, you need to show this to a Laurel':)
I take it all with a wheelbarrow's worth of salt anymore.I'm going to continue to learn all I can and keep trying to reproduce the best re-creation clothing I possibly can--but above all to enjoy it --and the like-minded folks I've met along the way!
Cheers and Best--
Albra

kat@grendal.rain.com wrote:

> I think my biggest problem with killing myself for accuracy is this:
> no matter HOW HARD you try, how much time you put in, how much
> research you do, how much money you spend, you will STILL arrive at
> your first event in your ultra accurate garb, and some self-appointed
> Garb Grand Pooh-Bah will walk up to you, look you over head to toe,
> and comment upon the fact that your trim is inaccurate and your bodice
> doesn't have the right silhouette. 

I think that this does happen. I certainly happened to me. However, 
despite the feeling that it is, in the SCA, the "Laurels" doing this, 
it's been my observation that it is more than likely a laurel-
wannabee. You know, the ones who think that they know something but 
it isn't reflected in what they say or do.

My very first event I had made a 12th C gown based on some drawings 
in Kohler (hey, it was one of the few around, but I didn't go for the 
"breast bag" stuff. I used it mostly for the sleeves.) I had made the 
pattern myself (although now I know it should have been rectangular 
construction rather than a modified princess seamed dress.) I was 
quite proud of it, but knew that there were problems. (I had put the 
train on wrong on the pattern and didn't discover it until I had cut 
it so I had to do some creative recutting to switch the sides of just 
the bottom of the train. I had also used a zipper over which I had 
put criss-crossed lacings.) 

I was standing after dinner looking out the window when a woman in a 
vaguely Italian Renaissance costume made of acetate lining taffeta 
with some of the worst gathering at the waist comes up to me and 
says, "Your train should be lined" and walks up. No preamble to a 
conversation, just "wham!" and walks off. I stood there in amazement 
that someone in such a badly constructed, badly fitted dress could do 
that. Her husband must have seen it and been embarrassed because he 
came up and told me "she must really admire your work. She rarely 
criticizes anything anyone does unless she thinks they know what they 
are doing. By the way, she is the one who helps people make their 
clothing and has made most all of the clothes that people in our 
canton wear. I'm so proud of her. She just got her award of arms (the 
lowest level award in the SCA) last week." Then he just walked off. 
(I still hadn't said a word to either of them. I just stared in 
continued amazement. However, at least I knew it wasn't one of the 
*real* top level costumers.)

Kat



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Subject: [h-cost] the guy in the plaid flannel kilt
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Hey! That's my hubby you're snarking! It's made from a nice warm flannel 
sheet and I think he looks *oh so handsome* in it! <facetious giggle>

>  the guy in the plaid flannel kilt.



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From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue+dated+1093977178.aee41c@thibault.org>
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Bice d'Este wrote:

> And don't even start on my Cow-hardie.

You're not the lady with the delightfully silly cowhardie  (cotehardie 
out of cow print fabric) in western PA, are you?  I saw one there years 
ago when visiting an event with a friends' family.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

Vote early, vote often!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] My personal favorite critique ROFL
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Tiffsewsstuff@aol.com wrote:

> "Spot on. What wonderfully awful period colors. Is it Goose Turd or Flea?"

Mine is from one of my entries 
http://amiperiodornot.com/details.mhtml?image_id=16 :
"If you're a Norman, why viking dress?"

That one has me rolling on the ground with its sheer cluelessness 
everytime i look at the comments page, but overall, most of the comments 
that this one got, save for the TRULY out there, were curious or 
positive. I was pretty surprised, really.

I also got wrinkles =/= period on this one:
http://amiperiodornot.com/details.mhtml?image_id=133

Which has a lot of things wrong with it, most obviously that the 
headgear is 100 years after the gown... Which nobody really picked up 
on! More commentary on how it's bright blue (No, really , I had not 
noticed that..), people disliked the background I chose (It's garish, 
but garish IS period), etc. Lots of people like this one too.

Note to Robin: Please don't take my necessarily curt descriptions of the 
sleeve cut on this gown badly. I used your name so that readers would be 
able to immediately know the method of cut I used. While I did cut these 
sleeves very like the method you give in your TI article (which I do 
have a copy of), and was happy with them at the time (1998), AND I think 
the shape is a period shape, I don't really think that they were 
constructed in this manner. It's too wasteful of fabric, and I don't 
like how the seam makes them hang (Especially the bias part). I'm 
putting up a page on my theory of how this particular sleeve was 
possibly cut and I'll let teh list know when I've got it done and up.

OTOH, I had some REALLY horrible reactions to both of the images of my 
German gown that I posted (A group image and then a requested detail of 
only me and my gown). Someone out there really dislikes me, or someone 
who looks like me, personally, I guess. I got quite a number of 
accusations, claiming that I must have psted my face on someone else's 
image, and in general lots of very cruel and unnecessary comments.

http://amiperiodornot.com/details.mhtml?image_id=164
http://amiperiodornot.com/details.mhtml?image_id=174

I'm not really sure why this gown is so much more likely to cause 
abusive reactions than the others.

M.



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From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Garb Snarks
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I don't think it is although I have done events in PA. It was a silly
garment though tragically lost in a rubbermaid tote on a concret flor in a
storage unit. But man it was a fun dress.


B~
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cynthia Virtue" <cvirtue+dated+1093977178.aee41c@thibault.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2004 1:33 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Garb Snarks


> Bice d'Este wrote:
>
> > And don't even start on my Cow-hardie.
>
> You're not the lady with the delightfully silly cowhardie  (cotehardie
> out of cow print fabric) in western PA, are you?  I saw one there years
> ago when visiting an event with a friends' family.
>
> -- 
> Cynthia Virtue and/or
> Cynthia du Pré Argent
>
> Vote early, vote often!
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
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<I'd like to have some of that gold fabric from 291.> 

Whole new meaning to the Golden Fleece. :)

De
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] My personal favorite critique ROFL
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On Thu, 4 Mar 2004, Maura Folsom wrote:

> Note to Robin: Please don't take my necessarily curt descriptions of
> the sleeve cut on this gown badly.

Oh, I hadn't even seen it! But now I've looked. Not to worry. I expect
people will have different ways of doing things; it's in the comparison
and discussion that we learn. I'll be interested in seeing what you came
up with in the "subsequent research" you mentioned. I also generally
figure things weren't just done one way -- there's a lot of time and
geography to cover, and lots of room for variation within a style.

The reason I came up with the method I use, as the article explains, is
that I believe that the sleeve shape with the narrow hanging cuffs
developed out of the offcut of the body pieces, as the body cutting
changed to be more fitted. I also like the fact that the entire dress,
using that method, can be cut without any measuring or marking tools,
numeric calculations, or patterns. I can certainly make a slightly more
economical cut, but it requires having a pattern. (Theoretically, after
the original dress is done, a second could be made with a different cut,
using the sleeve shape from the first as a template, though I don't think
the gain is significant.)

But I'm curious what you found wasteful. Even cut as is, mine don't have a
lot of waste -- the shavings you take off to make the curves are quite
minimal. Oh -- I see -- you were referring to the earlier (trumpet-sleeve)
cut? Yes, I think that can be done in a number of ways. But even the way I
have is not particularly wasteful, and does satisfy my "can I do it
patternless" criterion. I'd be interested in knowing of other methods that
produce the same shape and can be done straight from brain to cloth, on
period-width fabric, without measuring devices or calculations.

I will confess that I didn't spend a lot of time looking for variants to
achieve the trumpet-shape. My interest was on the "why" regarding the
weird and counterintuitive narrow cuff fashion, which turned out to be
concurrent with the body changes -- something I don't think was
coincidental. I included the trumpet-sleeve version in the article as a
starting point, to illustrate the contrast that occurred with the later,
stranger cut.

Whoa-ho. I just re-read your post:

> While I did cut these sleeves very like the method you give in your TI
> article (which I do have a copy of), and was happy with them at the
> time (1998), AND I think the shape is a period shape, I don't really
> think that they were constructed in this manner. It's too wasteful of
> fabric, and I don't like how the seam makes them hang (Especially the
> bias part).

So you weren't working from my article (originally published in the
Costume Research Journal in 2001, reprinted in 2002). Hmm, take a closer
look. Perhaps what you did *wasn't* the same as I have it. 

BTW, the sleeves with the pendant cuffs are pieced, mid-arm.

--Robin

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http://amiperiodornot.com/details.mhtml?image_id=16 :
"If you're a Norman, why viking dress?"

*I can't believe the fake braid comment.
I want to say, here let me find out who you are and come over and shear your
head for some real hair for her. Then it won't look fake.


*I noticed that on #174 that though you say ignore the hat, they critic it
anyway.
(Have some theories about construction of this style of dress but haven't
had the time to do the research.)

De

>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] My personal favorite critique ROFL
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Maura Folsom wrote:
> http://amiperiodornot.com/details.mhtml?image_id=164
> http://amiperiodornot.com/details.mhtml?image_id=174
> 
> I'm not really sure why this gown is so much more likely to cause 
> abusive reactions than the others.

I think it's the photo, not the gown.  You had to do a lot to the image 
to make it of any use (as you say), and thus there are lots of little 
color/contrast things that just don't read as natural.  So these subtle 
problems just make people react badly, without understanding why, and 
they come up with rationalizations about the gown or the hat or whatever.

I bet if you had a photo taken of you in natural/outdoor light, against 
an anonymous background, and posted it, you wouldn't get the weird and 
illogical comments.

Since we're talking about illogical, this one is also my, um, work.  I 
posted it to see what the reaction would be to a nonstandard medieval 
image (weird hat, extra long train, figured lining on a houp.)  Clearly 
some folks enjoyed having something that wasn't a real person to pretend 
to be as vicious as others were to real folks, but some had fits of the 
"we're too serious to have fun" variety.  I particularly like criticsms 
of photoshop technique, considering it only took me about 10 minutes.

http://amiperiodornot.com/details.mhtml?image_id=312

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

Vote early, vote often!
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Hi.
Last year when i came to my first event ever in "Gustafs Skål" in Sweden, i was velkomed very warmhearted.
The worst critic told me i was the best he had ever seen.
That warmed my heart!

Bjarne 





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] My personal favorite critique ROFL
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Yup. You just earned more of my respect Cynthia. Delightfully naughty. Makes
me want to put my cat in a ruff and attifet and post her picture.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cynthia Virtue" <cvirtue+dated+1093979446.5eb732@thibault.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2004 2:11 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My personal favorite critique ROFL


> Maura Folsom wrote:
> > http://amiperiodornot.com/details.mhtml?image_id=164
> > http://amiperiodornot.com/details.mhtml?image_id=174
> >
> > I'm not really sure why this gown is so much more likely to cause
> > abusive reactions than the others.
>
> I think it's the photo, not the gown.  You had to do a lot to the image
> to make it of any use (as you say), and thus there are lots of little
> color/contrast things that just don't read as natural.  So these subtle
> problems just make people react badly, without understanding why, and
> they come up with rationalizations about the gown or the hat or whatever.
>
> I bet if you had a photo taken of you in natural/outdoor light, against
> an anonymous background, and posted it, you wouldn't get the weird and
> illogical comments.
>
> Since we're talking about illogical, this one is also my, um, work.  I
> posted it to see what the reaction would be to a nonstandard medieval
> image (weird hat, extra long train, figured lining on a houp.)  Clearly
> some folks enjoyed having something that wasn't a real person to pretend
> to be as vicious as others were to real folks, but some had fits of the
> "we're too serious to have fun" variety.  I particularly like criticsms
> of photoshop technique, considering it only took me about 10 minutes.
>
> http://amiperiodornot.com/details.mhtml?image_id=312
>
> -- 
> Cynthia Virtue and/or
> Cynthia du Pré Argent
>
> Vote early, vote often!
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Dear Ingrid,
Lovely pictures, enjoyed the sights very much.
How wonderfull it must have ben to participate.
Thanks for the link

Bjarne






Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

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Bice d'Este wrote:

> Yup. You just earned more of my respect Cynthia. Delightfully naughty. Makes
> me want to put my cat in a ruff and attifet and post her picture.

They get really grumpy, y'know...
http://www.virtue.to/articles/images/cat_hat_s2.jpg

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

Vote early, vote often!
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http://amiperiodornot.com/details.mhtml?image_id=94

Does anyone know more about this dress? Does the lady have a website? It's absolutely beautiful and I'd love to learn more about the construction, and research, and see more details...Somehow I find the 2 line descriptions on the AIPON site insufficient... :-)
	Thanks!
		-sunny

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Hi Stevie,

     I may be able to get to my books over the weekend, but meanwhile Mara 
Riley was kind enough to look up some examples in her library.  Mara is the 
author of _Whatever Shall I Wear_, and has been working on stays research for 
the last few years.

 >I'm getting more confused. Waugh only gives one example of a real set
 >of 18th century stays before 1780 and those are front lacing, dated
 >1730-40 of unspecified origin; see page 39. Why therefore do you
 >suggest that Corset and Crinolines supports the view that the most
 >common English 18th century stays were back lacing?

     Ok, I see where you’re getting confused.  I mentioned Corsets & Crinolines 
as one of the many books that describes/drafts 18thC stays, aside from those 
you cited from the Kyoto collection.  I was not looking at C&C for the 
conclusions, I was looking for more examples of stays that are out there.  
While there may be mistakes, I do not think she changed the location of the 
lacings of stays in her drafts.

 >But in any event, why do you imagine that a French publication, even
 >if she had managed to get it right, is an authoritative source on
 >English clothing construction? 

     You’re the one who cited Garsault.  Isn’t that French?  Also the Kyoto 
collection and _Revolution in Fashion_ are Japanese.  Mia mentioned that this 
collection may also have a bias.

 >I am interested in reproducing the
 >stays worn by English aristocratic women between approximately 1750
 >and 1770.

 >You are confusing Diderot with Garsault, see my notes above.

     Ok, you’re right there, sorry about that.  So Diderot only copied 
Garsault’s work and did not actually research the lacing configurations 
himself?  Also a French (Garsault’s) idea of what was English, is actually what 
was commonly worn in England?

 >>  >Actually, what I said was 'I think [it] was reasonably common practise
 >>  >judging from my research so far'.
 >>
 >>       Right, and I wondered about that because I and other
 >>  > researchers think that front-lacing-only was uncommon.
 >
 >But you still haven't cited any evidence which you base your opinions on.

     Ok, here goes!

_Corsets and Crinolines_
p. 39 - 1730-1740: laces front (over stomacher) and back.  Yellow
brocade...

p. 42, 1780, half-boned stays in red silk damask: lace in back only.

-------------------------
_What Clothes Reveal_:  Two English, one American, all back-lacing.
p. 40, woman's stays from Britain , 1770-1785: Back-lacing only, silk outside 
covering, no straps.

p. 122 -- leather stays (children's, according to the caption), Britain, 1760-
1780 -- lace back, front and sides.

p. 150 -- front-lacing stays, strapless, possibly American, 1760-1775.
(comments below are Mara Riley’s)
Yes, front lacing only -- these are the exception to the rule.  The covering 
fabric is wool.  They're lined with blue/white checked linen; definitely 
working class.

Linda Baumgarten, curator of cotum at the De Witt Wallace Gallery, Williamsburg 
says about these stays:
"Stays with front lacings may have served as maternity clothing and would have 
been equally useful during breast-feeding.  A pair of front-lacing stays has a 
rather large waist in proportion to the bust, suggesting maternity wear; they 
measure thirty-two-nand-a-half inches at the chest and twenty-nine inches at 
the waist (fig. 208).  The stays are quite heavy, constructed from brown 
worsted wool, boned with baleen, and lined with coarse linen."


p. 211, three pairs of stays
1st -- Strapless, from Britain, 1740-1760, linen boned with baleen and wood, 
waist tabs removed at a later date (possibly for use as boys' stays) Back 
lacing only, plain fabric.

2nd -- Beige stays with straps, Britain, 1780, cotton lined with linen, boned 
with baleen.  This has that partial lacing in front, stopping about halfway 
down.

3rd -- white stays with straps, New York, probably worn by Ann Van Renselaer, 
1780-1790, cotton boned with wood or cane.  Again, partial lacing in the center 
front.

-----------------------
_Revolution in Fashion_:
p. 47, 49:
Corset, English, c. 1775, cotton and whalebone, back lacing, center front sewn 
together (laces part-way down).

p. 100: Left: Corset, c. 1760, with laced-on sleeves.  Laces front and back.

Center: Child's corset, back-lacing, mid-18th c.

Right: corset, early 18th c., back and side lacing, pocket for busk at center 
front.

There's a picture (English) of a woman being laced into stays on p.152 of RIF.  
They lace in front, and you can't see the back.


     So, we have front & back lacing, and back lacing only, and only one set of 
front-lacing-only stays, which are utilitarian and possibly for maternity/
nursing wear, not high fashion.

     Mara could not tell which stays in _Revolution in Fashion_ you thought 
were front-lacing only.  Is it a different book that you are citing?

 >>   There are a few examples, certainly
 >>  enough that making stays that way is correct.  Most people I know
 >>  are looking for what was the most common or average when making
 >>  repro clothing.
 >
 >Not, I hope, when reproducing a high fashion garment and its
 >underpinnings. I try for accuracy. Common and average is the last
 >thing which I want, and an English aristocratic woman of the period
 >would have been incredulous at the idea.

     I meant “common or average” as the most likely thing being worn, as 
opposed to a rare example.  I did not mean common as in lower class.  

     As you said,
 >>  >Actually, what I said was 'I think [it] was reasonably common practise
 >>  >judging from my research so far'.

     So I thought you meant what was normally worn by most people, not that you 
were looking for examples for lower class.

 >I am not aware of any fashion magazines in England sent to the English
 >colonies in America before 1770 or so. 

     Ok, so since your cut-off date is 1770, anything after that is irrelevant 
to your project?

> As for the belief that American fashion could mirror the heights 
>of the art achieved in Western Europe during that period, I am 
>not aware of any garment created in the colonies which could 
>make that claim.

     There was imported clothing and that which the English governors and their 
wives brought with them.  Probably not as high a quality as the king or queen 
would wear, no.  And again, I was looking at your statement of “reasonably 
common practise”, which to me is different from the height of fashion.

 >all individuals in the colonies who aspired to something beyond  
 >'Barbie dressed as an English gentlewoman' could do was to send
 >their measurements and thus import expensive knock-offs which
 >bore little resemblance to the real thing, or visit Europe in
 >the hope of getting gowns made which were the real thing, but which
 >were out of date by the time the ship had reached America on their
 >return voyage.

     Most of the original stays I’ve examined have been in American museums.  
Not everything in American museums was used in America, they buy at 
international auctions, have items that were purchased by collectors who bought 
in other countries, etc.  Many times what survives, and ends up in major 
collections, is the haute coture.  So this is included in what I’m talking 
about when I mention reenactors who are studying stays.  Though reenacting a 
particular era, we look at whatever we can to get a sense of what existed both 
before and after our period of interest.

     That items worn in America in the 18th century were out of date - well, 
sure, three months to the major ports and six months to reach the frontier.  
But while three months behind London, someone in Philadelphia would be on the 
cutting edge of fashion in that city.  Three months is not much time compared 
to the twenty year time span of your interest.

 >Your assumption is ill founded;  I am constructing my front lacing
 >stays with horizontal bones, and it creates a rounded shape. Again, if
 >you look at page 130, Fashion, you will see that the front lacing
 >stays do have horizontal bones.

     So you’re using two horizontal bones, split in the middle?  There must be 
a balance, then, of the flexibility of the bones.  On some originals, the 
horizontal boning is thick enough that it would form a point in the front if it 
were divided, rather than making a curved front as it does with a solid piece.  
But with a thinner piece of baleen it may work.  I'll also be interested to 
hear about your results!

 >>     My favorite draft is from Corsets & Crinolies, a
 >> mid-century set of stays that lace both front & back,
 >> with a stomacher as part of the stays.
 >
 >I can't find these, what page are they on, please?

     Page 39.

     Anyway, I don’t know if this makes any difference in your project.  Mara 
and I are both interested in the idea of a survey of as many sets of stays as 
we can track down.  Great idea!  It will help us determine what is consistent 
and it will be fun ot see where there are variations in the apparent norm.

     Thanks!
     -Carol

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Garb Snarks (was: LATE 15TH CENTURY THROUGH 16TH CENTURY
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In a message dated 3/4/2004 11:15:02 AM Central Standard Time, 
dawn@reddawn.net writes:
Anyway, has anyone here ever really had a 'garb snark' in their face?

I have never had anyone make a nasty or hateful comment to my face, but I 
*have* had people "constructively" tell me what I could "improve" on my garb LOL. 
 I just say thank you and go on ... if their intentions were truly good then 
there's no harm done; and if they were trying to be snarky, then not giving 
them the satisfaction of a debate is the best thing to do.

Incidentally, I have been a witness to a really bad garb-snarking scene.  At 
a Twelfth Night banquet for the SCA, a lady had come in her new Elizabethan, 
which was very striking but not very period-correct.  I happened to be walking 
into the restrooms at the same time as she did, and two other women who were 
already inside stalls in the restroom were quite loudly poking fun at this 
woman's dress, not realizing that she had just walked into the bathroom ahead of 
me.  It was NOT a pleasant moment for anyone involved.

-Tiff
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On Thu, 04 Mar 2004 11:21:28 -0600 Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> writes:
> 
> Anyway, has anyone here ever really had a 'garb snark' in their 
> face?
> 


        Just had to relate this little tidbit. <chuckle>  Last year at
Ren here in Colorado, my hubby and the male faction of the horde were
approached by a guy, also dressed in garb (I wasn't there so I don't know
how period he was), but the guy definitely seemed to think that the horde
had no business there because our stuff wasn't "fighting period". 
Everyone told him that we were based in fantasy, but the guy just
wouldn't let it go.  Now, I don't know if the guy was at the final joust
or not, but for not being period, anyone there for the final joust on
opening or closing weekend will most likely realize who the horde is. 
Even the jousting KNIGHTS bring us into the action with threats of
bathing us in the "blood" of our favorite knight! <chuckle>  Of all the
people in the audience, the horde is singled out.  And the King has been
really kewl about us as well.  (Hubby ALMOST dared me to prance up and
just plop in the King's lap once.  Perhaps this summer, I might just do
that. <chuckle>  Of course, I'll have the camera ready as well.  But
then, the good King seems to have an eye for the barbarian women. <grin>)
Anyhow, even us fantasy folk get the garb snark once in a great while.

Astrid
Never argue with a dragon, for thou art crunchy and go well with Brie.
    http://www.geocities.com/tul_juriss - for links to ALL my current
sites
    http://www.geocities.com/astridofthehorde - costumes I've made
    http://www.geocities.com/house_qul_mupwi - The noble Klingon House
    http://www.geocities.com/klingon_pirates_guild - The Klingon Pirate's
Guild

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Garb Snarks (was: LATE 15TH CENTURY THROUGH 16TH CENTURY
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On Thu, 4 Mar 2004 12:37:09 -0500 "Bice d'Este"
<wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com> writes:
> To be blunt. Hell yes. Years ago I had gone to one of my first SCA-type
> events and wore what was admittedly a really bad gown I was last minute
> attending and hadn't even planned on going. Some worthy walked up and
began
> to pick the dress apart. I stood silently while she circled and said
not a
> thing until she was done and standing in front of me. She was still
bitching
> about machine stitches and lack of effort and how this was wrong and I
> wasn't making an attempt at accuracy in my clothing etc. While she
continued
> to talk I simply reached up and took her glasses off her face polished
them
> ostentatiously and placed them back on her startled face, bowed and
walked
> away.
> 
> She still avoids me at events (the few I attend) and when someone asked
me
> why I had done it I explained that the incongruity of her screaming
about no
> effort at looking period while she wore black cat's eye glasses was
simply
> too much for me. (I wear contacts to events) What's sad is it's not the
only
> time I've been *snarked*. And don't even start on my Cow-hardie.


        <wicked chuckle>  I LOVE the way you set her back on her heels.
<grin>  Job well done, and without saying a word!  I just LOVE IT!!!  The
sad fact is that, while there are several in all the various SCA group
locations who are going for as accurate and authentic as they can
possibly get, there are also those that will attend event after event and
never make improvements, using whatever they can pull off the rack...
sweatpants being one of them (though this is being said from knowledge of
over 10 years ago, don't know if it's changed much since then though.) 
Using things like you did with the glasses will have a more lasting
affect, especially if they're going to pick you apart.
        The one thing that I have finally figured out.... if I'm doing
something that needs to be researched and I've done plenty of it to
validate what I'm making... or if I'm doing something that is for my
enjoyment only and only resembles period in the styling of it... I am the
one who decides how good it looks and if it's "good enough" to pass.  I
only listen to those who I know and trust, and go on what they say,
nothing more.
Never argue with a dragon, for thou art crunchy and go well with Brie.
    http://www.geocities.com/tul_juriss - for links to ALL my current
sites
    http://www.geocities.com/astridofthehorde - costumes I've made
    http://www.geocities.com/house_qul_mupwi - The noble Klingon House
    http://www.geocities.com/klingon_pirates_guild - The Klingon Pirate's
Guild
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Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 12:50:53 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] LATE 15TH CENTURY THROUGH 16TH CENTURY
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On Thu, 4 Mar 2004 11:43:48 EST Tiffsewsstuff@aol.com writes:
> I think my biggest problem with killing myself for accuracy is this: 
> no matter HOW HARD you try, how much time you put in, how much research
you do, how 
> much money you spend, you will STILL arrive at your first event in your
ultra 
> accurate garb, and some self-appointed Garb Grand Pooh-Bah will walk up
to you, 
> look you over head to toe, and comment upon the fact that your trim is 
> inaccurate and your bodice doesn't have the right silhouette.  So I try
to stay 
> within the bounds of reason, and just have fun.  If people have a
problem with it 
> they can go discuss it with the guy in the plaid flannel kilt.


        I more than agree.  Let's see, I've heard them called
authenti-police, garb nazis, thread-counters, and the latest to come
across one of the lists... For those of us who are true clothes horses
and fiber geeks,we can spot fake linen at 20 paces!... I agree, we do it
to have fun.  Unless someone is more well-versed (or at least as well
versed) as I in that situation, they'd be able to tell, but if you don't
have the research and knowledge, you see beautiful garb, and assume that
it's correct for the period.  Nit-pickin'... leave it at home and have
fun.  People do what they can afford and have time for.  So that viking
trim isn't hand woven tablet weaving... it looks similar, let it pass and
let it go, ya know?  (sorry, popped in my head and came out the fingers.
<chuckle>  But that's my take on things)
        The Horde makes sure that we let people know that we're based in
FANTASY.  Unfortunately, there is a Viking at a Ren fair that, as soon as
I have the full shot, as well as his contact information, will HOPEFULLY
be treated with lessons in accuracy.  What he's wearing is like what the
Horde wears... fantasy, with distant relation to actual historical finds,
but he's claiming it is ALL historical.  Vikings never HAD horned
helmets!  That's the most blatant one visible.  <shakes head>  I've only
done cursory research, have been asked if I would be interested in a
semi-local Viking LH group, and can only LAUGH at this so called Viking. 
<chuckle>  And he had the gall to complain about carrying his axe all
day!  (It was plywood covered with tinfoil, and informed the horde that
if he were to carry a real axe of that size, he couldn't do it all day!) 
Hubby informed me of this, and I laughed, responding with... "Your axe
would KILL him to carry all day!  He's such a wimp!"  Hubby had to agree.
 His double headed axe weighs in at 10lbs (axe alone), and in the heat of
June and July, it feels like a whole lot more.
        If'n y'all wanna see that so-called Viking, I'll be glad to post
a pic somewhere when I get it.  Let me know.

Astrid
Never argue with a dragon, for thou art crunchy and go well with Brie.
    http://www.geocities.com/tul_juriss - for links to ALL my current
sites
    http://www.geocities.com/astridofthehorde - costumes I've made
    http://www.geocities.com/house_qul_mupwi - The noble Klingon House
    http://www.geocities.com/klingon_pirates_guild - The Klingon Pirate's
Guild
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From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <200403041756.i24HuNKk058840@net.indra.com><40477637.7090309@verizon.net>	<40477F72.5080102@thibault.org><BAY1-DAV72dA6kvAdxa0001a87e@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] My personal favorite critique ROFL
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LMAO. Oh gods now I MUST inflict poor Moo and Farli with hats.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cynthia Virtue" <cvirtue+dated+1093981883.52c56f@thibault.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2004 2:52 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My personal favorite critique ROFL


> Bice d'Este wrote:
>
> > Yup. You just earned more of my respect Cynthia. Delightfully naughty.
Makes
> > me want to put my cat in a ruff and attifet and post her picture.
>
> They get really grumpy, y'know...
> http://www.virtue.to/articles/images/cat_hat_s2.jpg
>
> -- 
> Cynthia Virtue and/or
> Cynthia du Pré Argent
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Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 15:06:10 EST
Subject: Re: [h-cost] the guy in the plaid flannel kilt
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In a message dated 3/4/2004 11:47:38 AM Central Standard Time, 
Katie@katiesorchids.com writes:
Hey! That's my hubby you're snarking! It's made from a nice warm flannel 
sheet and I think he looks *oh so handsome* in it! <facetious giggle>


Good lord ... doesn't it ITCH???? LOL  

-Tiff
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Catalina=20Saravia=20Quicedo?= <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] garb snarks
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I was with a friend who does lovely late 14th century
clothing. She has one hat that she will never wear
agian even though its a good hat. We call it the
coffee filter hat. Yoo're supposed to wear a white
veil over it. She was wearing it at an event when
someon came up and asked her if she was trying to be
the singing nun. In a sage green linen dress no less!

=====
Señora Catalina
Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit


	
	
		
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Organization: Medieval Hats: http://www.virtue.to
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] garb snarks
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From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue+dated+1093984720.162da9@thibault.org>
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Catalina Saravia Quicedo wrote:

> I was with a friend who does lovely late 14th century
> clothing. She has one hat that she will never wear
> agian even though its a good hat. We call it the
> coffee filter hat. Yoo're supposed to wear a white
> veil over it. She was wearing it at an event when
> someon came up and asked her if she was trying to be
> the singing nun. In a sage green linen dress no less!

Sometimes they have veils, but by no means always.  I like those hats!

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

Vote early, vote often!
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Catalina=20Saravia=20Quicedo?= <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] garb snarks
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Bjarne,
  you are the incarnate god of embroidery. Your stuff
is always good.


 --- Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
wrote: > Hi.
> Last year when i came to my first event ever in
> "Gustafs Skål" in Sweden, i was velkomed very
> warmhearted.
> The worst critic told me i was the best he had ever
> seen.
> That warmed my heart!
> 
> Bjarne 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

=====
Señora Catalina
Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit


	
	
		
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] the guy in the plaid flannel kilt
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<Good lord ... doesn't it ITCH???? LOL

-Tiff>

I was think more in the line of it tickling his fancy but wasn't going to
say anything until your comment. :)

D

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] garb snarks
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That bites. Big time. Support her and encourage her to wear the hat again. I
love those hats!!
=============================
http://my.lulu.com/kristalori
Elizabethan Ladies Calendar
Rolled Florentine Cap Pattern
http://kristalori.com
=============================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Catalina Saravia Quicedo" <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2004 3:32 PM
Subject: [h-cost] garb snarks


> I was with a friend who does lovely late 14th century
> clothing. She has one hat that she will never wear
> agian even though its a good hat. We call it the
> coffee filter hat. Yoo're supposed to wear a white
> veil over it. She was wearing it at an event when
> someon came up and asked her if she was trying to be
> the singing nun. In a sage green linen dress no less!
>
> =====
> Señora Catalina
> Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit
>
>
>
>
>
> ___________________________________________________________
> Yahoo! Messenger - Communicate instantly..."Ping"
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] LATE 15TH CENTURY THROUGH 16TH CENTURY
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 15:15:53 -0600
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There are examples of horns on the helmets but they are metal not actual
horn. On a few Nordic (dislike using the term Viking as most of my research
shows Vikings to be more of a "profession" like pirating then the general
populace) lists I have heard the "I can tell fake linen [so many #]yards
away. And "I can tell hand stitched from machine stitched 5 yards away".
Some years back at a contest a friend entered a tunic that was hand
stitched. Her grandmother taught her and she could sew straight even
stitches. One of the judge docked points because "it is obviously machine
stitched and not hand sewn."
Really, didn't know you could buy wool thread on a machine spool. (bit O'
sarcasm)

De
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of btana@juno.com
Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2004 1:51 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] LATE 15TH CENTURY THROUGH 16TH CENTURY



On Thu, 4 Mar 2004 11:43:48 EST Tiffsewsstuff@aol.com writes:
> I think my biggest problem with killing myself for accuracy is this:
> no matter HOW HARD you try, how much time you put in, how much research
you do, how
> much money you spend, you will STILL arrive at your first event in your
ultra
> accurate garb, and some self-appointed Garb Grand Pooh-Bah will walk up
to you,
> look you over head to toe, and comment upon the fact that your trim is
> inaccurate and your bodice doesn't have the right silhouette.  So I try
to stay
> within the bounds of reason, and just have fun.  If people have a
problem with it
> they can go discuss it with the guy in the plaid flannel kilt.


        I more than agree.  Let's see, I've heard them called
authenti-police, garb nazis, thread-counters, and the latest to come
across one of the lists... For those of us who are true clothes horses
and fiber geeks,we can spot fake linen at 20 paces!... I agree, we do it
to have fun.  Unless someone is more well-versed (or at least as well
versed) as I in that situation, they'd be able to tell, but if you don't
have the research and knowledge, you see beautiful garb, and assume that
it's correct for the period.  Nit-pickin'... leave it at home and have
fun.  People do what they can afford and have time for.  So that viking
trim isn't hand woven tablet weaving... it looks similar, let it pass and
let it go, ya know?  (sorry, popped in my head and came out the fingers.
<chuckle>  But that's my take on things)
        The Horde makes sure that we let people know that we're based in
FANTASY.  Unfortunately, there is a Viking at a Ren fair that, as soon as
I have the full shot, as well as his contact information, will HOPEFULLY
be treated with lessons in accuracy.  What he's wearing is like what the
Horde wears... fantasy, with distant relation to actual historical finds,
but he's claiming it is ALL historical.  Vikings never HAD horned
helmets!  That's the most blatant one visible.  <shakes head>  I've only
done cursory research, have been asked if I would be interested in a
semi-local Viking LH group, and can only LAUGH at this so called Viking.
<chuckle>  And he had the gall to complain about carrying his axe all
day!  (It was plywood covered with tinfoil, and informed the horde that
if he were to carry a real axe of that size, he couldn't do it all day!)
Hubby informed me of this, and I laughed, responding with... "Your axe
would KILL him to carry all day!  He's such a wimp!"  Hubby had to agree.
 His double headed axe weighs in at 10lbs (axe alone), and in the heat of
June and July, it feels like a whole lot more.
        If'n y'all wanna see that so-called Viking, I'll be glad to post
a pic somewhere when I get it.  Let me know.

Astrid
Never argue with a dragon, for thou art crunchy and go well with Brie.
    http://www.geocities.com/tul_juriss - for links to ALL my current
sites
    http://www.geocities.com/astridofthehorde - costumes I've made
    http://www.geocities.com/house_qul_mupwi - The noble Klingon House
    http://www.geocities.com/klingon_pirates_guild - The Klingon Pirate's
Guild
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Subject: [h-cost] Another bronze age find
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http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/wales/north_east/3532395.stm

They mention jewelry, but nothing about surviving fibers. Still, I can't 
wait to see the pictures from this one.



Dawn


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Garb Snarks
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I suddenly got a picture of cow print and little cow buttons going up the
arms and front. Then I saw a sideless surcote made from the the hawiian
flame print material interchange with stripes of black, like wrotiron. for
"Gates of hell"

Must file this for future costumes. :)

De

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Cynthia Virtue
Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2004 12:34 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Garb Snarks


Bice d'Este wrote:

> And don't even start on my Cow-hardie.

You're not the lady with the delightfully silly cowhardie  (cotehardie
out of cow print fabric) in western PA, are you?  I saw one there years
ago when visiting an event with a friends' family.

--
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

Vote early, vote often!
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Garb Snarks (was: LATE 15TH CENTURY THROUGH 16TH CENTURY
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<I simply reached up and took her glasses off her face polished them
ostentatiously and placed them back on her startled face, bowed and walked
away.

She still avoids me at events.>

The question is did she get a clue  or did she take your actions as a threat
to her person and is still walking around quite ignorant?

De

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In a message dated 3/4/2004 3:26:31 PM Central Standard Time, 
otsisto@socket.net writes:
Must file this for future costumes. :)

De

My favorite garb piece ever is my leopard print bodice ::grin::.

-Tiff
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] stays research
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Carol!
This is very interresting points you made with Mara.
Still i am in question. Why did Garsault write that english stays are front laced and vise versa?
Could this be that Garsault actually knew nothing at all about english style stays? 
The french and the englishmen were enemies - at war all the time, and could this just be a mob to the english, that they were so stupid that they laced their corsets in the front? 
Many other books writes the same, but i guess this is because they rely on Garsault.
Any thoaghts about this?

Bjarne 





Leif og Bjarne Drews
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From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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If you play someplace where an open mind is welcome then there are so many
things you can do to have fun with fabric and middle age clothing. We can
get delightfully evil here or contact me off list for some of my evil
plotting.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2004 4:25 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Garb Snarks


> I suddenly got a picture of cow print and little cow buttons going up the
> arms and front. Then I saw a sideless surcote made from the the hawiian
> flame print material interchange with stripes of black, like wrotiron. for
> "Gates of hell"
>
> Must file this for future costumes. :)
>
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Cynthia Virtue
> Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2004 12:34 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Garb Snarks
>
>
> Bice d'Este wrote:
>
> > And don't even start on my Cow-hardie.
>
> You're not the lady with the delightfully silly cowhardie  (cotehardie
> out of cow print fabric) in western PA, are you?  I saw one there years
> ago when visiting an event with a friends' family.
>
> --
> Cynthia Virtue and/or
> Cynthia du Pré Argent
>
> Vote early, vote often!
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
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From: "Lisa Sinervo" <Lisa-list@thrednedlestrete.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <4046DC08.3070909@pcez.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Update about pomander
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 07:09:28 -0800
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Congrats!  PLEASE DO let us know when photos are available!  I'd love to see
them.

Lisa Sinervo


----- Original Message -----
From: "Roscelin" <roscelin@pcez.com>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>; "Cathedral" <cathedral@antir.sca.org>
Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2004 11:34 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Update about pomander


> Greetings One and All,
>
>     For everyone who is interestested in hearing about my progress with
> the 14th-15th C. pomander.  Well, last term in my jewelry class - the
> project hit a snag.  Because my instructor insisted that I used two
> types of metals.  Unfortunately, I found out that sterling silver and
> German silver do not work well together on larger pieces.  But where I
> failed, I did get a great pair of earrings and necklace pendant (when I
> get the web site up and going I will place the pictures of them on the
> site).
>     I was able to talk my instructor in taking me on as an independent
> study.  This means during this coming fall term, I will be able to
> completely concentrate on the pomander and do it the way I want to do
> it.  Hurray!  I also found recent reference to a copper pomander of the
> 14th C.  that was enameled,  hoping to research it more and maybe
> recreate it in the future
>      Even with some of these setbacks and such, I did win an art
> scholarship for this term and also was placed on the Dean of Education's
> honor roll list.  -blush-
>       Must go back to the books....
>
> Roscelin
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
>


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Mar  4 17:00:42 2004
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPOEFOCCAA.otsisto@socket.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Garb Snarks (was: LATE 15TH CENTURY THROUGH 16TH CENTURY
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 16:41:37 -0500
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Oh no. Later I made it real clear why I had done it. She knew at the time
and in fact as I walked away she called me an arrogant bitch. (like I
haven't heard that one before) and complained before I even spoke to others
on my reasons for doing it that I was an arrogant know it all and thought I
knew more than her about costuming and LARP etc etc I think frankly she just
wanted to find someone to be nasty to and picked the wrong person. She
avoids me still to this day and I'm told flinches when my name is brought
up. Good. Next time she gets nasty maybe she'll think twice and go off
someplace else. I don't know her lit her fuse that day but she didn't get
the reaction she wanted I'm sure.

Anyone who knows me also speaks of the highly "disdainful" look I tend to
get on my face in the presence of snarkiness and I understand that just the
look on my face alone has stopped many a snarking episode in my hearing
because I flat out won't allow it done to me or anyone in my presence. It's
a disgusting habit and I have no patience for it. I've been known to grip a
snark firmly by the arm smile politely and offer to take her for a small
walk while we discuss appropriate behavior at an event. And yeah I've done
it to those who know better and have little medals.

Up here for a while I ran a local LARP (still do even though it's mildly
defunct at the moment) and have to autocrat most everything on my own. I
want people to have fun and the last thing the need is some garb Nazi on a
mission in their face at worst making them cry (had it happen)


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2004 4:25 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Garb Snarks (was: LATE 15TH CENTURY THROUGH 16TH
CENTURY


>
>
> <I simply reached up and took her glasses off her face polished them
> ostentatiously and placed them back on her startled face, bowed and walked
> away.
>
> She still avoids me at events.>
>
> The question is did she get a clue  or did she take your actions as a
threat
> to her person and is still walking around quite ignorant?
>
> De
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Katie Pleasance <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Garb Snarks
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Hmmm .... I think I *will* take that plaid flannel sheeting and make a 
couple of Kass's leinte for hubby and me. Carry wooden sticks with a line 
and hook on each.  And hang signs on our backs that say "Trolling for Garb 
Snarks" ...

Katie

At 04:38 PM 3/4/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>In a message dated 3/4/2004 3:26:31 PM Central Standard Time,
>otsisto@socket.net writes:
>Must file this for future costumes. :)
>
>De
>
>My favorite garb piece ever is my leopard print bodice ::grin::.
>
>-Tiff
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Subject: [h-cost] Other countries' names
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Hi Bjarne,

     Well, there is the Robe Anglaise, also named for English.  On the other 
hand, the English named certain diseases after the French, and I don't think 
the French were the only ones to have them.

     In England today, they call chocolate chip cookies "Maryland" cookies, but 
here is the US I've never heard them attributed to any one state or place.

     I don't know why things are named after certain places, does it really 
come from that place or is it just a way to call something that's different?

     -Carol


Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> said:

> Carol!
> This is very interresting points you made with Mara.
> Still i am in question. Why did Garsault write that english stays are front laced and vise versa?
> Could this be that Garsault actually knew nothing at all about english style stays? 
> The french and the englishmen were enemies - at war all the time, and could this just be a mob to the english, that they were so stupid that they laced their corsets in the front? 
> Many other books writes the same, but i guess this is because they rely on Garsault.
> Any thoaghts about this?
> 
> Bjarne 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Western Mass. costume museums?
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> Hello - a Smith alum.  I've worked in the
> Smith costume shop, but unfortunately I do not
> believe that they have much
> in the way of actual period garments there, nor if
> memory serves anywhere to display them if they did. 

Smith actually has a rather nice costume collection
from about mid-19th century throught the 20th.
I especially remember a Bright Yellow silk hoop-era
gown that looked like neon--bright as any nylon, and
this after 120 years (at the time).

But, nowhere to display it.

I saw it as a January course.

Ann in CT

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A librarian friend sends me this citation. I haven't seen the book, but he
says it includes medieval material (and I know some people on this list
will be interested in the later stuff):

The European linen industry in historical perspective, ed. Brenda
Collins & Philip Ollerenshaw (Oxford UPr, 2003)>

--Robin

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At 10:56 AM -0700 3/4/04, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>probably why I have the passive website for people who are looking to find.
>
>Anyway, has anyone here ever really had a 'garb snark' in their face?
>
>
>Dawn

Oh yeah! I was wearing an undergown dyed with stinky pot indigo, only 
to be informed the color was "tooooooo brite" by someone that fancied 
themselves an expert! Me n a few others just laughed ourselves silly 
after said person left<G> Funny thing was, I was uncertain enough 
about the *cut*, but the color was spot on so to speak...

And on the other hand I've had a tunic I sewed for someone 
complemented on the wonderful linen it was made from (5 foot 
rule!)...it was 100% poly, 25 cents a yard...so much for the "I can 
spot real linen at 20 feet" rule!

Life is just full o surprises! Next biiiig project will probably be a 
hand spun/woven cloak or coat of LOTR Fellowship style cloth---so 
tell me it's not *authentic* <VVBEG> Elf re-enacting can be very 
relaxing! Especially when taking a break from tryin to fit a corset 
by oneself <G>

ta
Carol, feeling silly tonight

-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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On Thu, 4 Mar 2004 15:15:53 -0600 "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net> writes:
> There are examples of horns on the helmets but they are metal not
actual
> horn. On a few Nordic (dislike using the term Viking as most of my
research
> shows Vikings to be more of a "profession" like pirating then the
general
> populace) lists I have heard the "I can tell fake linen [so many
#]yards
> away. And "I can tell hand stitched from machine stitched 5 yards
away".
> Some years back at a contest a friend entered a tunic that was hand
> stitched. Her grandmother taught her and she could sew straight even
> stitches. One of the judge docked points because "it is obviously
machine
> stitched and not hand sewn."
> Really, didn't know you could buy wool thread on a machine spool. 
> (bit O' sarcasm)
> 
> De


        According to "Viking" LHers, there have been no horned helms
found, what's been found has been merely what APPEARS to be a horned
helm.  And if they HAD been metal, then the horns would have remained. 
Believe me, these LHers are WAY serious about what they do.  I've seen
their standards for kit.  They'll accept machine stitched, but anything
VISIBLE needs to be hand sewn.  The list goes on.  Heck, they aren't even
considering safety glasses for folks like the blacksmith, whose RL job is
the same and their livelihood.  Anyhow, I have to agree, you can't tell a
blasted thing, because some folks are just TOO good at what they do.
<grin>
        And I'm very pleased with myself, spent about 3 hours today
correcting the bust sizing of my new armor for this summer (my others
gets a little too warm, but now wench burn is going to take on a whole
new meaning) to stay a bit cooler.  Now, three SG1 tactical vests by
mid-April, and then another laced leather shirt for sharing with my
oldest daughter for RF.  Once those are done, I'll start to work on some
of my winter garb... my long leather tunic and my leather pants.... once
I find my pieces for my pants again. <grin>  Anyhow, need to get hubby to
put his stuff away so that I can use my cutting table tomorrow.  Need to
pack some things up and get some other things out, to work on for the
cool nights of camping as well.  (That coyote cloak needs to be bigger,
so I need to get that done as well by Ren)  Guess I better get to work. 
(Dang, for a lurker, I've said more today than the whole of the time I've
been on this list! <chuckle>)

Astrid
Never argue with a dragon, for thou art crunchy and go well with Brie.
    http://www.geocities.com/tul_juriss - for links to ALL my current
sites
    http://www.geocities.com/astridofthehorde - costumes I've made
    http://www.geocities.com/house_qul_mupwi - The noble Klingon House
    http://www.geocities.com/klingon_pirates_guild - The Klingon Pirate's
Guild

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>  I
> would like to see someone try a test... submit pictures of some
> well-known professionals' work and see how brutal it can get. 

I don't believe we need to test. All you have to do is watch how 
people talk about the costumes of any of the costume dramas out 
there. ;)

The only difference is that if you place your work in a forum for 
"feedback" you can expect some people to respond negatively and 
should be prepared for that. A professional doesn't ask for feedback 
yet they get it unasked all the time.

I think that for the amiperiodornot website, that anyone who submits 
should ignore the stupid/uniformed comments and take the reasoned 
ones to heart. (And glory in every positive comment.)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Greetings--
 
Speaking of silly garb....

http://members.tripod.com/nicolaa5/images/hockey.jpg

(Picture's a little dark, the numbers on the tippets have changed, and I've actually rebuilt it in somewhat nicer fabric, but you get the idea...) This comes out once per year at most, usually at Twelfth Night. 

Susan
...who enjoys the odd break from the authentic

1

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Greetings--

> > I was with a friend who does lovely late 14th century
> > clothing. She has one hat that she will never wear
> > agian even though its a good hat. We call it the
> > coffee filter hat. Yoo're supposed to wear a white
> > veil over it. She was wearing it at an event when
> > someon came up and asked her if she was trying to be
> > the singing nun. In a sage green linen dress no less!

Well, it wasn't at an event, but at a school demo once I was heading out to the parking lot in my deep green silk surcote and veil and wimple, and heard someone say, "Look, a nun!" and point to me.  It *was* a Catholic school, and I know nuns in habit aren't as common these days, but I didn't think they were that unfamiliar that they would mistake one wearing deep green silk for one.

Susan


1

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> Well, it wasn't at an event, but at a school demo once I was heading
> out to the parking lot in my deep green silk surcote and veil and
> wimple, and heard someone say, "Look, a nun!" and point to me.  It
> *was* a Catholic school, and I know nuns in habit aren't as common
> these days, but I didn't think they were that unfamiliar that they
> would mistake one wearing deep green silk for one.

	This isn't really historical costume related but it reminded me of
something funny that happened at work yesterday.  I have hip-length black
hair which I often leave down.  Yesterday I was wearing a long, rather
full white skirt.  Someone who was walking behind me from the parking lot
later came and told me that from the back at a distance she thought I was
a nun!  St. Elizabeth's Catholic school is nearby and some of the nuns do
wear white habits with black veils :>.

annora

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Garb Snarks (was: LATE 15TH CENTURY THROUGH 16TH CENTURY
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Yes, it was most embarrassing. Kept me away for 6 years (1st event).

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2004 9:21 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Garb Snarks (was: LATE 15TH CENTURY THROUGH 16TH
CENTURY


> >
> >  you will STILL arrive at your first event in your ultra
> > accurate garb, and some self-appointed Garb Grand Pooh-Bah will walk up
to you,
> > look you over head to toe, and comment upon the fact that your trim is
> > inaccurate and your bodice doesn't have the right silhouette.
>
> You know, I've made some pretty awful 'garb' in the past, and a lot of
> fantasy inspired apparel, and worn it to all kinds of events, and nobody
> has ever said an unkind thing to me about it. Well, one person did
> comment that I was "dressed down" once, but I don't know if I could call
> that an insult, as I was wearing a rather plain t-tunic at the time.
>
> I have received lots of compliments, anywhere from 'you look nice'
> unspecific ones, to words like "I love the hat" and "you look very
> period."  And my personal favorites, overheard by friends and told to me
> later, are when bystanders who think they are out of earshot whisper "I
> want THAT outfit" when I walk past.
>
> I kind of wish that 20 years ago someone had said something to me, and
> pointed me on the right track, because as a beginner I had no clue what
> I was doing. On the other hand, I have no idea how to approach someone
> who probably needs help, now that I do know what I'm doing. Which is
> probably why I have the passive website for people who are looking to
find.
>
> Anyway, has anyone here ever really had a 'garb snark' in their face?
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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>      In England today, they call chocolate chip cookies "Maryland" 
> cookies, but
>here is the US I've never heard them attributed to any one state or place.

Toll House cookies, named for the first place someone put broken bits of 
chocolate into cookie dough - the Toll House Restaurant in 
Massachusetts.  Go to 
http://www.ideafinder.com/history/inventions/story047.htm for the Nestle 
Chocolate Company's version of this invention.  Obligatory costume content 
- on the page is a picture of the inventoress in a c.1930 dress.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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annora writes, in a message sent 05:20 PM 3/4/04 -1000:
> > Well, it wasn't at an event, but at a school demo once I was heading
> > out to the parking lot in my deep green silk surcote and veil and
> > wimple, and heard someone say, "Look, a nun!" and point to me.  It
> > *was* a Catholic school, and I know nuns in habit aren't as common
> > these days, but I didn't think they were that unfamiliar that they
> > would mistake one wearing deep green silk for one.
>
>         This isn't really historical costume related but it reminded me of
>something funny that happened at work yesterday.  I have hip-length black
>hair which I often leave down.  Yesterday I was wearing a long, rather
>full white skirt.  Someone who was walking behind me from the parking lot
>later came and told me that from the back at a distance she thought I was
>a nun!  St. Elizabeth's Catholic school is nearby and some of the nuns do
>wear white habits with black veils :>.

A number of years ago I encountered a Carmelite nun in a craft store.  I 
think they were the last to wear long Medieval-ish habits.  I asked her 
about the outfit, and got lucky in having asked a nun who knew about the 
history of what she was wearing and who would answer a question or two 
about it.  This must have been 30 years ago, and I don't know if Carmelites 
still wear long habits.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: [h-cost] Fw: [STEPS] OT: Looking For...
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kim Mays" <jasmina-z@earthlink.net>
To: "BAO" <bao@kendaco.telebyte.com>; "AnTir" <steps@antir.sca.org>
Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2004 10:45 AM
Subject: [STEPS] OT: Looking For...


> I am searching for a Puget Sound (preferably Pierce or King county)
company
> to manufacture Aluminum Shield Blanks for The Badgers Den.  If you have
> information or can send me in the right direction, it would be greatly
> appreciated.  We're also looking for a local welder (same area range) who
> can make sword / shield baskets in bulk.
>
> Please direct all responses to owner@badgersden.com
>
> Thanks
> Kim Mays, Owner
> www.badgersden.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -------------------- << "steps@antir.sca.org" >> --------------------
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: being mistaken for a num
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I was at a huge SCA event several years ago.  I had on a tunic-cut dress 
with huge gores, in vertically striped red and cream and other colors, 
somewhat faded.  And veils and bands, and I was greeted by a stranger on 
the road "Good morning, Sister!"

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

Vote early, vote often!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] garb snarks
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> That bites. Big time. Support her and encourage her to wear the hat again.
I
> love those hats!!

I have a coffee filter hat too, and I love it. People are mostly curious
about it. Once I got a comment along the lines of "it looks like a coffee
filter!" to which I answered something along the lines of "Yes, it does".
But aside from that, since I'm one of the only ones who bother wearing a
hat, people are generally interested in it :-)
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Subject: [h-cost] Carmelite Habit
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, March 05, 2004 3:36 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: being mistaken for a num


>
> A number of years ago I encountered a Carmelite nun in a craft store.  I
> think they were the last to wear long Medieval-ish habits.  I asked her
> about the outfit, and got lucky in having asked a nun who knew about the
> history of what she was wearing and who would answer a question or two
> about it.  This must have been 30 years ago, and I don't know if
Carmelites
> still wear long habits.
>

Two of my friends are Carmelite nuns, so I can tell you that their habit was
modernised following the order by the Second Vatican Council to all
religious orders to consider how they could renew themselves in modern
times.  The Council began in 1962, but it took years for them to work
through all the work, and then the various religious orders took some time
to consider how to completely rewrite their constitutions without losing
their original spirit, so the change in dress didn't work through to the
ordinary nun until maybe the beginning of the 1970s.

They still wear clothes which look superficially like the old habit in
length, colour and style, but now they are made from what look to me like
man-made fibres.  Also, they wear modern underwear and sandals.  They are
still committed to poverty, so make and mend as much as they can, and are
always grateful for Christmas presents of things like a warm vest or packets
of pop-socks.  (Pop-socks - is this an English term? - they look like nylon
stockings but only reach to somewhere between ankle and knee.)

If anyone is really interested, I could write to ask for more information.
There are still nuns alive who can tell you all about the details of their
old clothing and how it was worn, which was often preserved in every detail
from the day their order was founded.  That includes everything from woollen
hose and early Medieval underwear to pinned-on sleeves and complicated
head-dresses.  It seems to me that these nuns are a great resource for
anyone who wants to research the costume of the particular time and place of
the founders - but a resource which will soon be lost forever.

Linda Walton,
(in High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.).

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Carmelite Habit
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>Two of my friends are Carmelite nuns, so I can tell you that their habit was
>modernised following the order by the Second Vatican Council to all
>religious orders to consider how they could renew themselves in modern
>times.  The Council began in 1962, but it took years for them to work
>through all the work, and then the various religious orders took some time
>to consider how to completely rewrite their constitutions without losing
>their original spirit, so the change in dress didn't work through to the
>ordinary nun until maybe the beginning of the 1970s.
>
>They still wear clothes which look superficially like the old habit in
>length, colour and style, but now they are made from what look to me like
>man-made fibres.  Also, they wear modern underwear and sandals.  They are
>still committed to poverty, so make and mend as much as they can, and are
>always grateful for Christmas presents of things like a warm vest or packets
>of pop-socks.  (Pop-socks - is this an English term? - they look like nylon
>stockings but only reach to somewhere between ankle and knee.)

They're called "knee-highs" in California.

>If anyone is really interested, I could write to ask for more information.
>There are still nuns alive who can tell you all about the details of their
>old clothing and how it was worn, which was often preserved in every detail
>from the day their order was founded.  That includes everything from woollen
>hose and early Medieval underwear to pinned-on sleeves and complicated
>head-dresses.  It seems to me that these nuns are a great resource for
>anyone who wants to research the costume of the particular time and place of
>the founders - but a resource which will soon be lost forever.

Wow, thanks.  Is there a book about this?  An online resource?  I don't 
know where to start asking questions.  I guess what I want is a dress-able 
doll wearing all the parts, and the book of the history and description to 
go with it.  Failing which, I can probably go ask at the same nunnery that 
Carmelite lived in.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
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I have it checked out of the library right now. It covers the 20th c.  And
like the historic one, has nice pictures of clothing details with line
drawings of the entire dress. Has a pretty wide variety of designers, with a
few generic. I like it just for seeing the way designers work with fabric.

It's easy seeing the odd stuff that get published in the paper and magazines
to dismiss name designers as not being relevant.  But the more I look and
learn about how they design adn how they work with fabric, the more I admire
what they do.

If you have any specific questions, let me know.

Susan


----- Original Message -----
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2004 1:34 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Modern Fashion in Detail


> Can anyone tell me more about this book? I'm having a hard time finding
> out what the contents are, other than a single review which compares it
> to _Fashion in detail - 17th & 18th Century_. Is it entirely pictures?
> Is there any commentary? Diagrams? What are the years that are covered?
>
> My husband's employer is offering books from this publisher at half
> price, and this is about the only costume book we can find on the list.
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Garb Snarks
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2004 06:11:13 -0600
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I actually invisioned when you said that was, flannel plaid made into norse
garb and carrying axes, with a sign that says "I'm a lumberjack and I'm
OK....
Ah where the mind will go when on pain killers.

De

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Katie Pleasance
Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2004 4:05 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Garb Snarks


Hmmm .... I think I *will* take that plaid flannel sheeting and make a
couple of Kass's leinte for hubby and me. Carry wooden sticks with a line
and hook on each.  And hang signs on our backs that say "Trolling for Garb
Snarks" ...

Katie

At 04:38 PM 3/4/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>In a message dated 3/4/2004 3:26:31 PM Central Standard Time,
>otsisto@socket.net writes:
>Must file this for future costumes. :)
>
>De
>
>My favorite garb piece ever is my leopard print bodice ::grin::.
>
>-Tiff
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Other countries' names
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And in New England, it is "the Original Toll House Cookie"
Kathleen----- Original Message ----- 
From: <aquazoo@patriot.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2004 5:53 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Other countries' names


> Hi Bjarne,
>
>      Well, there is the Robe Anglaise, also named for English.  On the
other
> hand, the English named certain diseases after the French, and I don't
think
> the French were the only ones to have them.
>
>      In England today, they call chocolate chip cookies "Maryland"
cookies, but
> here is the US I've never heard them attributed to any one state or place.
>
>      I don't know why things are named after certain places, does it
really
> come from that place or is it just a way to call something that's
different?
>
>      -Carol
>
>
> Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> said:
>
> > Carol!
> > This is very interresting points you made with Mara.
> > Still i am in question. Why did Garsault write that english stays are
front laced and vise versa?
> > Could this be that Garsault actually knew nothing at all about english
style stays?
> > The french and the englishmen were enemies - at war all the time, and
could this just be a mob to the english, that they were so stupid that they
laced their corsets in the front?
> > Many other books writes the same, but i guess this is because they rely
on Garsault.
> > Any thoaghts about this?
> >
> > Bjarne
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Oh, great! Now the choc. chips in the cupboard are calling to me.  It's 
a cold and rainy/snowy day, so it's *perfect* for making cookies. 
Regardless of whether I actually have to go to work!
--sue

Lloyd Mitchell wrote:

> And in New England, it is "the Original Toll House Cookie"
> Kathleen----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <aquazoo@patriot.net>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2004 5:53 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] Other countries' names
> 
> 
> 
>>Hi Bjarne,
>>
>>     Well, there is the Robe Anglaise, also named for English.  On the
> 
> other
> 
>>hand, the English named certain diseases after the French, and I don't
> 
> think
> 
>>the French were the only ones to have them.
>>
>>     In England today, they call chocolate chip cookies "Maryland"
> 
> cookies, but
> 
>>here is the US I've never heard them attributed to any one state or place.

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Oooh.  That's evil.  I might have to steal it!
I've got two "fun" outfits in the planning stages.  One is a fitted gown 
and surcoat combination--Teddy's fault, as he was the one who challenged 
me to actually *do* something from pink and orange.  The fitted gown is 
fuschia-pink worsted wool (with a matching pink linen lining), and the 
surcoat is tangerine-orange velvet.  I should look like a large sunrise 
in it! <g> I'll wear it on Saturday mornings at SCA camping events as a 
"hangover revenge" outfit, since I don't stay up late and party...
I'm also known as a "stealth laurel" (old, long in-joke), and I've been 
threatening for years to show up at some future peer-laden event or 
meeting dressed in Camo Elizabethan, but I heard that's been done.  So 
I've been thinking, maybe Urban Camo? Inexpensive twill fabric that I 
could paint and distress and add things like possible 16th c. graffiti to?
--sue

otsisto wrote:

> I suddenly got a picture of cow print and little cow buttons going up the
> arms and front. Then I saw a sideless surcote made from the the hawiian
> flame print material interchange with stripes of black, like wrotiron. for
> "Gates of hell"
> 
> Must file this for future costumes. :)
> 
> De


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Garb Snarks
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On Fri, 5 Mar 2004, otsisto wrote:

> I actually invisioned when you said that was, flannel plaid made into
> norse garb and carrying axes, with a sign that says "I'm a lumberjack
> and I'm OK....

I sympathize. Every time I see this subject line, my brain reads it as
"Garb Snacks."

> Ah where the mind will go when on pain killers.

Or cough medicine.

--Robin, coughing

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>>> aquazoo@patriot.net 04/03/04 22:53:11 >>> wrote:
>     In England today, they call chocolate chip cookies "Maryland"
>cookies, but here is the US I've never heard them attributed to any one
>state or place.
The product name "Maryland cookies" was used by the first biscuit
manufacturer to market such things in the UK 30 or 40 years ago, and you
can still buy that brand, but it isn't the universal name for them now
the concept is well known.

    > I don't know why things are named after certain places, does it
really 
>come from that place or is it just a way to call something that's
different?

Yes, often it is - e.g. French knitting for lucet-type work on 4 pins.
(Better not start another long OT thread here...)



     

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Garb Snarks & silliness
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Years ago at Pennsic, one morning I saw down the road, a woman dressed 
in a full-skirted something made entirely of lavender lurex (metallic 
fabric).  I don't know if it was a prom dress that she thought looked 
Elizabethan, or a joke outfit, or if she was in all seriousness, having 
made it herself.  But the image has stayed with me for lo these 20 years.

One event in the West held a "silly hat" competition.  I entered the hat 
of Mistress Sebastian, St. Sebastian's younger sister, who (so I 
explained in the documentation) died in much the same was as he did. 
The hat was a truncated cone butterfly style with the veil held up with 
arrow shafts instead of wires.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

Vote early, vote often!
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Subject: [h-cost] Silliness:  was - Garb Snarks
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Some of these ideas are great-

         I must admit that I have one in the works...  based on my nickname 
of "Poodle Lady"...
         Elizabethan in black  with a screaming pink forepart... and on the 
forepart a silver chain running down to a black appliqued poodle.   Think 
1950s poodle skirt,  gone 1550s...   And that's it.

Bridgette.


>Oooh.  That's evil.  I might have to steal it!
>I've got two "fun" outfits in the planning stages.  One is a fitted gown 
>and surcoat combination--Teddy's fault, as he was the one who challenged 
>me to actually *do* something from pink and orange.  The fitted gown is 
>fuschia-pink worsted wool (with a matching pink linen lining), and the 
>surcoat is tangerine-orange velvet.  I should look like a large sunrise in 
>it! <g> I'll wear it on Saturday mornings at SCA camping events as a 
>"hangover revenge" outfit, since I don't stay up late and party...
>I'm also known as a "stealth laurel" (old, long in-joke), and I've been 
>threatening for years to show up at some future peer-laden event or 
>meeting dressed in Camo Elizabethan, but I heard that's been done.  So 
>I've been thinking, maybe Urban Camo? Inexpensive twill fabric that I 
>could paint and distress and add things like possible 16th c. graffiti to?
>--sue

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From: KATHRYN WOLTERS <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Garb Snarks
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Is that like little cookies made into clothing shapes??
Albra 
(getting these funny little visuals of gingerbread elizabetheans doublets ---and choking tea all over her keyboard!)

Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:

On Fri, 5 Mar 2004, otsisto wrote:

> I actually invisioned when you said that was, flannel plaid made into
> norse garb and carrying axes, with a sign that says "I'm a lumberjack
> and I'm OK....

I sympathize. Every time I see this subject line, my brain reads it as
"Garb Snacks."

> Ah where the mind will go when on pain killers.

Or cough medicine.

--Robin, coughing

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I think I have subconciously repressed any memories of garb snarking
from my early years in SCA and the local renfaire except for one, and
the garb in question wasn't even present.  Several of us were having a
general garb farble at some event and I mentioned I was making a
cotehardie for my brother-in-law who plays the lute to wear at his gigs.
 Someone jumped on me and said they weren't period with lutes.  My mind
immediately jumped to the period illumination I was using for research
but since the book was at home and I couldnt' remember the name I kept
mum.  Probably the reason I remember this, it helped me to start keeping
better track of my sources :).

I have definately mellowed over the years and found that I roll with
the punches easier than I used to.  Having helped too many rennies
costume on a budget I am also probably a little more tolerant of good
modern substitutions, as my own viking apron dress (made from $1 yard
poly that looks like wool) and brooches ('70's shoebuckles) can attest. 
Except for competitions naturally. 

Catherine
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Garb Snarks
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On Fri, 5 Mar 2004, KATHRYN WOLTERS wrote:

> Is that like little cookies made into clothing shapes??
> Albra 
> (getting these funny little visuals of gingerbread elizabetheans
> doublets ---and choking tea all over her keyboard!)

That sounds a lot more appetizing than fabric made into cookies, which is
where my mind was going.

I think I'm going to go bake something.

--Robin

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Sue wrote:
I've been
> threatening for years to show up at some future peer-laden event or
> meeting dressed in Camo Elizabethan, but I heard that's been done.

Guilty as charged, but that was a long time ago- early 80's.  Nearly 50 yds
of black piping went on it, too.
            -Helen/Aidan


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Just had lunch in a wonderful new bakery/cafe  yesterday with some workmates.  Looking at the princess cakes draped with marzipan reminded me that those doll cakes seem to be passe now.  But I was thinking how easy it would be to make the marzipan fall into pleats such as on top of a "catherine wheel" ...........  oh never mind.

Lisa Sinervo


---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Helen  Pinto" <hpinto@mindspring.com>
Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date:  Fri, 5 Mar 2004 11:03:15 -0500

>Sue wrote:
>I've been
>> threatening for years to show up at some future peer-laden event or
>> meeting dressed in Camo Elizabethan, but I heard that's been done.
>
>Guilty as charged, but that was a long time ago- early 80's.  Nearly 50 yds
>of black piping went on it, too.
>            -Helen/Aidan
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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>
 
             
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From: KATHRYN WOLTERS <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Garb Snarks
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Di you ever wear it to a West Coast Costumner's College? I think I saw it! I loved it:)
Albra

Helen Pinto <hpinto@mindspring.com> wrote:
Sue wrote:
I've been
> threatening for years to show up at some future peer-laden event or
> meeting dressed in Camo Elizabethan, but I heard that's been done.

Guilty as charged, but that was a long time ago- early 80's. Nearly 50 yds
of black piping went on it, too.
-Helen/Aidan


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>>threatening for years to show up at some future peer-laden event or
>>meeting dressed in Camo Elizabethan, but I heard that's been done. 
> 
> Guilty as charged, but that was a long time ago- early 80's. Nearly 50 yds
> of black piping went on it, too.

I think, then, there must have been several instances of independent 
invention, as I know of another which wasn't you.  An idea whose time 
had come!

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

Vote early, vote often!
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No, never been to the West Coast.  In any case, it wasn't for me- I made it
for the Pennsic autocrat.  I don't know if she wore it any place other than
Coopers'.
           -Helen/Aidan

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "KATHRYN WOLTERS" <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, March 05, 2004 12:02 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Garb Snarks


> Di you ever wear it to a West Coast Costumner's College? I think I saw it!
I loved it:)
> Albra
>
> Helen Pinto <hpinto@mindspring.com> wrote:
> Sue wrote:
> I've been
> > threatening for years to show up at some future peer-laden event or
> > meeting dressed in Camo Elizabethan, but I heard that's been done.
>
> Guilty as charged, but that was a long time ago- early 80's. Nearly 50 yds
> of black piping went on it, too.
> -Helen/Aidan
>
>
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Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2004 17:46:48 -0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Garb Snarks
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Catherine Kinsey <ckinsey@kumc.edu> said:
> Several of us were having a general garb farble at some
> event and I mentioned I was making a cotehardie for my
> brother-in-law who plays the lute to wear at his gigs.
>  Someone jumped on me and said they weren't period with lutes.

     I don't think of this as snarking, I think snarking is when you're at an 
event, having a good time, and someone makes negative comments on what you are 
wearing.  I've had plenty of conversations about things that I or someone else 
was thinking of making, and sharing what we thought was correct or not.  Sounds 
like the person was not polite about it, but that happens with strong opinions.

     Whether the garb is correct or not, whether the snarker knows the topic or 
not, it's a matter of "correcting" someone at a time when they can't change it.  
I may be able rearrange something that isn't quite right, but I'm not going to 
haul out a dyepot and change the color of my dress.

     It's a shame that it's so rampant in the SCA, because bad garb is still an 
attempt at garb, and therefore "right" according to the SCA rules.  Reenactment 
groups sometimes have written standards and clothing inspectors, to be sure 
everything worn is within the standards.  Other groups are more lax, and more 
snarking occurs.

     -Carol

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Mar  5 13:07:43 2004
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Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 23:26:56 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pictures in Sweden, last summer
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I don't think it would be period for 11th century, although of course we 
have so few sources for people working, getting their veils out of the 
way. Certainly don't do the version with the tightly twisted band, 
that's quite distinctively 14th.  It depends where you are from in the 
11th century, I think Viking styles tend to be more "liberated" than 
Saxon, but mostly the headcovering is draped across the front of the 
neck and chest.

Jean


Jennifer Sena <distantdesigns@hotmail.com> wrote
>On the last page of pictures, the second and third pics show a head 
>wrap.  Can anyone tell me how to make/wear one?  It's just white with 
>some way of wrapping it, but I love the look.  Since I'm launching into 
>11th century I hope it fits.  Either way, if someone knows how or where 
>find out how, please email me at distantdesigns@hotmail.com .
>
>Thanks,
>
>
>Jennifer Sena
>Distant Designs
>http://home.teleport.com/~cedric/distdesi
>
>I wont hurt you, I just want to dress you up!!
>
>
>
>
>
>>From: Ingrid G. StorrÃ¸ <ingridgs@techarea.net>
>>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>>To: h-costume@indra.com
>>Subject: [h-cost] Pictures from an event in Sweden, last summer
>>Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 09:41:27 +0100 (CET)
>>
>>Hi, all! I only just realized that they've put up pictures from a
>>wonderful event I attended last summer, HantverkslÃ¤gret (Camp of Crafts)
>>in Kronoberg, Sweden. It was a mixed-period event, ranging mostly from
>>9th/10th to late 14th century, where the participants came to perform
>>period crafts together for a bit over a week. I thought maybe some of
>>you would enjoy the pictures. :) Unfortunatly it was so hot that a lot
>>of people left their wool layers off for the workday, especially those
>>working around fires, so some of the best costumes aren't pictured
>>because it was so dark when people put them on. :/
>>
>>The main site is here
>>http://www.hantverkslagret.org/hantverkslagret/index.asp
>>, and a direct link to the picture galleries is
>>here :
>>http://www.hantverkslagret.org/hantverkslagret/tidigare_verksamhet/kron
>>oberg_2003/s_2003.asp
>>.
>>
>>It's all in Swedish I'm afraid, but the seven picture galleries should
>>be easy enough to navigate anyway. :)
>>
>>Ingrid
>>
>>--
>>This email has been scanned for viruses & spam by Decna as - www.decna.no
>>Denne E-post er sjekket for virus & spam av Decna as - www.decna.no
>>
>>
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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> 
>      It's a shame that it's so rampant in the SCA, because bad garb is still an 
> attempt at garb, and therefore "right" according to the SCA rules.  Reenactment 
> groups sometimes have written standards and clothing inspectors, to be sure 
> everything worn is within the standards.  Other groups are more lax, and more 
> snarking occurs.
> 

One of the funniest conversations I overheard about 8 years ago was a 
couple of fantasy LARPers ripping up someone elses' outfit because 
"that's not what they wore back then."

Back when? One of the people doing the complaining wasn't even dressed 
as a human.



Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Garb Snarks
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In a message dated 3/5/2004 12:08:47 PM Central Standard Time, 
dawn@reddawn.net writes:
Back when? One of the people doing the complaining wasn't even dressed 
as a human.



Dawn


OMG ROFLMAO - thank you, Dawn!  I haven't had this good a laugh in DAYS!  
::grumbling my way through a courtesan outfit that has a few too many elements::

-Tiff
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At Thu, 4 Mar 2004 11:43:48 EST, Tiff <Tiffsewsstuff@aol.com> wrote:

>...So I try to stay within the bounds of reason, and just have fun.  If 
>people have a problem with it they can go discuss it with the guy in the 
>plaid flannel kilt.

Cripes -- I've seen that guy! Well, a similarly-dressed guy. <*shudders*> 
One of the folk who, for a while, was hanging out with the rennies in our 
STAR TREK club. First time I met him, he was bragging about his supposed 
experience fitting young women's corsets, embellishing his description 
with... I'd call them obscene gestures, except that he was *performing* the 
acts he was describing. <*shudder*> At least he kept his hands on himself 
<*shudder*> The first faire after that we went to, he wore a cotton 
flannelette "kilt"; it was beyond laughable (especially compared to the 
fellow he was trying to imitate)...

I really did *not* need those images popping back into my brain, *thank* you!


Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Garb Snarks
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2004 13:42:48 -0500
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    Years ago in California there was a Fantasy Faire (maybe it still
happens I don't know).  I was reading a review of the first one in the L.A.
Times and they interviewed one of the participants.  I will have to
paraphrase as it was years ago, but she said something like."  I am a 13th
century Elf, this is a dirk, that's the sort of knife that elves carried in
the 13th century".  I always wondered where she got her documentation!

Cheers,
Ron

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Dawn
> Sent: Friday, March 05, 2004 1:16 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Garb Snarks
>
>
> >
> >      It's a shame that it's so rampant in the SCA, because bad
> garb is still an
> > attempt at garb, and therefore "right" according to the SCA
> rules.  Reenactment
> > groups sometimes have written standards and clothing
> inspectors, to be sure
> > everything worn is within the standards.  Other groups are more
> lax, and more
> > snarking occurs.
> >
>
> One of the funniest conversations I overheard about 8 years ago was a
> couple of fantasy LARPers ripping up someone elses' outfit because
> "that's not what they wore back then."
>
> Back when? One of the people doing the complaining wasn't even dressed
> as a human.
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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--- Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote:
> Oh, great! Now the choc. chips in the cupboard are
> calling to me.  It's 
> a cold and rainy/snowy day, so it's *perfect* for
> making cookies. 
> Regardless of whether I actually have to go to work!
> --sue
> 


One of the funniest cartoons I ever saw ("Randolph
Itch 2:00am"):

Motivational poster: That which doesn't kill you makes
you stronger.

Guy's thought bubble: A few chocolate chip cookies
wouldn't kill me.

Later thought bubble: Suddenly I feel strong enough to
finish the whole box.

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Catalina=20Saravia=20Quicedo?= <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] renfair follies
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 Whenever my 16th century friends and I go out to a
renfair, we refer to outlandishly dressed people as
"Irish" because certainly, we've never seen anyone
dressed that way back in Valencia. And we have heard
what barbarians the "Irish" are.


Catalina

p.s. My granmother was an O'Flaherty so it is all
meant in fun.

=====
Señora Catalina
Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit


	
	
		
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Mar  5 14:56:02 2004
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First I want to thank Ingrid for the approximate dimensions!!  Can't get it 
right if I don't have the size.  These measurements will get me started.  :)

And Thank you Jean for the time clarification.  darn my hubby's choice of 
cent.

I really like the look of this wrap and I will at least wear it to keep my 
hair under control for set-up, working in the yard at home, etc.  My town is 
used to seeing my family and me running around in bits of our garb.

Now, does anyone know what the French were wearing on their heads in the 
eleventh century.  I started years ago with a French personna and would 
rather focus my research on a French lady's habits and needs.  I've got the 
saxon part for my hubby and while I am traveling with his "mercenary band" 
and would therefore be influenced by living in Saxon/Norman England, I also 
want to know more about the French fashions, fabrics, and trims.  I want to 
work out a decent blend and then start working on getting the right fabrics 
and even *gasp* hand finishing where needed.

Thank you all for willingly sharing the treasure that is your knowledge,

Jennifer Sena
Distant Designs
http://home.teleport.com/~cedric/distdesi

I wont hurt you, I just want to dress you up!!

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At 5:57 AM +0000 3/5/04, Linda Walton wrote:
>If anyone is really interested, I could write to ask for more information.
>There are still nuns alive who can tell you all about the details of their
>old clothing and how it was worn, which was often preserved in every detail
>from the day their order was founded.  That includes everything from woollen
>hose and early Medieval underwear to pinned-on sleeves and complicated
>head-dresses.  It seems to me that these nuns are a great resource for
>anyone who wants to research the costume of the particular time and place of
>the founders - but a resource which will soon be lost forever.

I'd encourage some caution, though. It's good that you've found some 
nuns who are genuinely well educated about the subject, but few monks 
or nuns are costume experts. The idea that religious clothing is 
_completely_ unchanged from the date of the Order's founding is 
commonly believed, especially by members of a group who were told 
this in their novitiate years, but it's not necessarily true, and 
deserves to be tested against other contemporary evidence like any 
other hypothesis. For instance, there are surviving 13th-century 
habits that belonged to St. Francis of Assisi and St. Antony of 
Padua, and a mantle that belonged to St. Clare, which can yield a 
good deal of information about the original clothing of the 
Franciscan Orders at least.

It's interesting that Orders with origins in the 16th century and 
earlier (like the Carmelites) tend to have relatively simple 
clothing. The Poor Clares and some Benedictines also are still 
wearing essentially T-tunics, wimples, and unstarched veils. In my 
experience, the elaborate headdresses that many groups of nuns wore 
before Vatican II tend to belong to the multitudes of teaching and 
nursing orders that were founded in the 18th and 19th centuries, 
derived from the elaborate "peasant" costumes worn by many ethnic 
communities in Europe at the time.

I know there are a few people around who are studying monastic 
clothing, but it's an area where not a lot of solid research has been 
done, or at least where it's not yet made its way into common 
discussion.
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Garb Snarks
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Catherine Kinsey <ckinsey@kumc.edu> said:
>  Several of us were having a general garb farble at some
>  event and I mentioned I was making a cotehardie for my
>  brother-in-law who plays the lute to wear at his gigs.
>   Someone jumped on me and said they weren't period with lutes.

I'd never heard it called a "garb farble" before, but I love it <g>.

At 5:46 PM +0000 3/5/04, <aquazoo@patriot.net> wrote:
>   I don't think of this as snarking, I think snarking is when you're at an
>event, having a good time, and someone makes negative comments on what you are
>wearing.

I'm not so sure. I would also class discussing someone else's garb 
with my friends as "snarking," even though the person isn't present 
and may not (and hopefully won't) find out what was being said about 
them.

Granted, providing the person _doesn't_ ever hear about it and the 
friends you're talking to charitably forget your comments, this 
doesn't do _nearly_ as much harm as walking up to someone and telling 
them what's "wrong" with their clothing.

We all need to let off steam and make fun of things sometimes, and 
many of the attempts people make to look "medieval" are genuinely 
quite funny if you're amused (as I am) by the odd ideas people get 
about what "medieval" is supposed to look like and how things are 
made. In my opinion, what each of us needs to watch carefully is our 
own attitude and tone of voice. If I'm amused by someone's ideas, but 
I respect and appreciate the effort they've made and genuinely would 
like to help them, that's one thing. If I'm using the topic of 
someone's garb as a way to call them stupid, incompetent, dishonest 
or flaky, or for that matter to take out my irritation with them over 
something else, or as a vent for any free-floating anger I have lying 
around, that's quite another.

I do, unfortunately, catch myself in the latter attitude more often 
than I'd like. To me it also seems that "group snarking" is more 
likely to go in that direction, and I've been in enough such 
situations to know that _that_ kind of discussion only tends to get 
worse, and to have bad effects on people's attitudes in the long run.

For what it's worth, BTW, snarking is not a phenomenon confined to 
costuming. I used to do quite a bit of folk dancing, and people are 
just as likely to make comments that a particular dance or style 
isn't authentically "ethnic," and jokes and grumbles about the 
supposed "Ethnic Police" who walk up to people and tell them they're 
doing it all wrong. :)
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
_________________________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Garb Snarks
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Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> said:
> I'm not so sure. I would also class discussing someone else's garb 
> with my friends as "snarking," even though the person isn't present 
> and may not (and hopefully won't) find out what was being said about 
> them.

     Oh, I thought that was good old fashioned cattiness!  Snark was one word 
suggested to replace a certain German political term for people who are 
critical.  But certianly the terms vary depending on the group, etc.

> Granted, providing the person _doesn't_ ever hear about it and the 
> friends you're talking to charitably forget your comments, this 
> doesn't do _nearly_ as much harm as walking up to someone and telling 
> them what's "wrong" with their clothing.

     And sometimes it's an honest effort to educate a third party.  "See that? 
don't do it!"  It could be anywhere from bunny fur bikinis not being correct, 
to sharing a fitting trick that eliminates the wrinkles you see on dresses of a 
certain era.  But the topic comes up because you see an example at the event.

     Often when people have something that's wrong, it's a compromise they made 
deliberately.  They're more than happy to talk about it if invited into a 
conversation.  And yes, some people really would rather have a new garment 
every event made from cheap fabric rather than saving up for one really correct 
outfit.

> If I'm using the topic of someone's garb as a way to call them
> stupid, incompetent, dishonest or flaky, or for that matter to
> take out my irritation with them over something else, or as a
> vent for any free-floating anger I have lying around, that's
> quite another.

     Oh, absolutely!  It does make life very difficult, however, if the person 
is any of those things and has very authentic garb.  What do you pick on?  It's 
infuriating! :-)

> For what it's worth, BTW, snarking is not a phenomenon confined to 
> costuming. I used to do quite a bit of folk dancing, and people are 
> just as likely to make comments that a particular dance or style 
> isn't authentically "ethnic," and jokes and grumbles about the 
> supposed "Ethnic Police" who walk up to people and tell them they're 
> doing it all wrong. :)

     It's definitly part of being human!

     -Carol

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This is necessarily jumbled. I'm quoting your comments out of order, 
because my reply will make more sense that way. If has any chance of 
making sense, that is. Sigh.

> Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote thusly, quoting me:

 >> While I did cut these sleeves very like the method you give in your TI
 >> article (which I do have a copy of), and was happy with them at the
 >> time (1998), AND I think the shape is a period shape, I don't really
 >> think that they were constructed in this manner. It's too wasteful of
 >> fabric, and I don't like how the seam makes them hang (Especially the
 >> bias part).

 > So you weren't working from my article (originally published in the
 > Costume Research Journal in 2001, reprinted in 2002). Hmm, take a closer
 > look. Perhaps what you did *wasn't* the same as I have it.

Argle. That rustling sound you've been hearing is me hunting for the 
copy of TI, which seems to be MIA. Not really surprising, since I moved 
recently, and my my house (and studio/office) is pure unadulterated 
chaos (or so it seems to me).

Hang on. I'll straighen up a bit. I don't want to have a discussion with 
only half the facts and a vague recollection!

Argh. A day later, office all straightened, books finally put where they 
belong, and I only seem to have half of my periodicals. It must be in 
the storage unit. In one of the dozens of boxes marked, 
oh-so-descriptively "books." Well, I'll do my best with my fuzzy 
reccollections. Please forgive misremembrances.

 > But I'm curious what you found wasteful. Even cut as is, mine don't 
have a
 > lot of waste -- the shavings you take off to make the curves are quite
 > minimal. Oh -- I see -- you were referring to the earlier 
(trumpet-sleeve)
 > cut? Yes, I think that can be done in a number of ways. But even the 
way I
 > have is not particularly wasteful, and does satisfy my "can I do it
 > patternless" criterion. I'd be interested in knowing of other methods 
that
 > produce the same shape and can be done straight from brain to cloth, on
 > period-width fabric, without measuring devices or calculations.

(Actually, I am referring to the boat-shaped sleeve. I think the 
trumpet-shape was probably done with gores, set in on seams or cuts in 
the cloth, like a tunic's skirt is constructed.)

Okay, from what I recall, having had the blue gown, my partially 
constructed red wool gown (same cut, different color, never got it 
done...), and the article in hand at the same time, the sleeve cut 
seemed wasteful *to me.* And I mean 'wasteful' in that there was 
something left over besides the circlular off cut from the neckline and 
perhaps a square or small rectangle of cloth. Waste is also defined, to 
me, by how useful any leftover bits would be. It's a very subjective 
thing, this. Any odd little elliptical-pointy shreds that I cannot reuse 
  just set off some kind of alarm in my head.

The sleeve cut isn't completely identical, obviously, as I learned it 
from a lady named Melisande in 1996, and not from your article. What is 
similar is the general shape (a boat-shape, though I did not curve the 
bottom of my cuff) and the back curve from a narrower sleeve to a wide 
cuff being cut into the sleeve, rather than peiced in. What's mostly 
different is the scale, as my blue gown's sleeves are cut as a Very 
Large exaggerated bell that goes into a boat-shaped cuff, where your 
diagrammed sleeves are somewhat more conservative in size.

The blue gown's sleeves are actually large enough that I could 
successfully recut them to a gusseted curve from what cloth is there, if 
I wanted to. I may do so, actually. i'll just feel better aobut wearing it.

 > BTW, the sleeves with the pendant cuffs are pieced, mid-arm.

So are mine :) I think that's just costume-common-sense. Mine have a 
strip of trimming over the seam.

> The reason I came up with the method I use, as the article explains, is
> that I believe that the sleeve shape with the narrow hanging cuffs
> developed out of the offcut of the body pieces, as the body cutting
> changed to be more fitted. I also like the fact that the entire dress,
> using that method, can be cut without any measuring or marking tools,
> numeric calculations, or patterns. I can certainly make a slightly more
> economical cut, but it requires having a pattern. (Theoretically, after
> the original dress is done, a second could be made with a different cut,
> using the sleeve shape from the first as a template, though I don't think
> the gain is significant.)

This is exactly how I cut all of my gowns, though I don't assume a 
specific loom-width to start with - I usually cut my cloth just about in 
half, which happens to equate to about half of my high hip measure. It's 
very intuitive, but particularly hard to explain to people without being 
in the same room with them. I cut the body, cut the gores, and the 
leftovers are used to make the sleeves. The main difference between your 
method and mine is that I piece in the curve below the arm with a square 
gusset, rather than cutting a curve into the sleeve shape. That works 
quite nicely when doing it "by eye and arm" rather than with a measuring 
tape and some graphpaper. The size of the long cuff and square gore is 
really dictated by the amount of fabric left after cutting the skirt gores.

There's some archeological evidence for this method (but without a 
pendant cuff), in Cristina Frieder Waugh's article _Well Cut Through the 
Body_ that was published in Dress a few years ago (That's also in 
storage, apparently).

I cut my pendant cuffs as rectangles, my sleeves as rectangles, and 
piece in the curve with a square gusset to form the curve. It works 
nicely, without any stiffenss along the curve, such as a seam may cause. 
That stiffness, from a seam on the bias, plus the fact that a shaped 
pattern piece (even if one is not using a pattern) is counter to the 
idea of rectangular construction,  are the factors that make me 
uncomfortable with using that method.

> I will confess that I didn't spend a lot of time looking for variants to
> achieve the trumpet-shape. My interest was on the "why" regarding the
> weird and counterintuitive narrow cuff fashion, which turned out to be
> concurrent with the body changes -- something I don't think was
> coincidental. I included the trumpet-sleeve version in the article as a
> starting point, to illustrate the contrast that occurred with the later,
> stranger cut.

This bit, I'd HAVE to have your article in front of me, unfortunately to 
answer. I remember thinking that I agreed with everything in the article 
*except* how the boat-shaped sleeves were cut. It may just be a matter 
of opinion, which means we either argue until we are blue in the face, 
or we can agree to disagree, since we have come to different conclusions 
based on very similar lines of research. Subjective is subjective :)

Some of those narrow cuffs, BTW, may not actually have been narrow. One 
of the ladies at Chartres with what appear to be narrow pendant cuffs 
actually has fine vertical pleats carved on her cuffs, which would seem 
indicate that it's a wider rectangle that's been pleated into a narrow 
shape... Norman High Fashion is as capricious as modern Haute Couture, 
it would seem.

Thanks for the reply, BTW.

M.



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aquazoo@patriot.net wrote:
>>For what it's worth, BTW, snarking is not a phenomenon confined to 
>>costuming.
>      It's definitly part of being human!

Yeah.  We all like feeling superior to some other subset of humanity. 
Good manners means we try and keep it in check, and at least not in 
public!  I know I fail, sometimes, but I can't imagine anyone I know 
pouncing upon someone and offering unsolicited commentary.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

Vote early, vote often!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Garb Snarks
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In a message dated 3/5/2004 3:48:34 PM Central Standard Time, 
aquazoo@patriot.net writes:
And yes, some people really would rather have a new garment 
every event made from cheap fabric rather than saving up for one really 
correct 
outfit.


And then there's the ones like me, who want a really expensive brand new 
outfit for every event.  This is why I learned to sew in the first place LOL - and 
I STILL can't seem to make my budget match my clotheshorsing!

-Tiff
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Garb Snarks
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In a message dated 3/5/2004 2:59:41 PM Central Standard Time, claning@igc.org 
writes:
To me it also seems that "group snarking" is more 
likely to go in that direction, and I've been in enough such 
situations to know that _that_ kind of discussion only tends to get 
worse, and to have bad effects on people's attitudes in the long run.


How very true!  I've been guilty of it as well and have consciously tried to 
stop this habit.  But honestly, when you see the woman wandering around the 
1533 renaissance faire wearing a chain mail bikini (and more often than not, 
there are rolls hanging out every edge of said bikini), it can be VERY difficult 
to keep that resolution!!! 

I will say this:  I think that for *most* of us, what comments we make on 
garb tend to be more about the blatant, glaring, or wilfully ignorant errors - 
meaning, people who either didn't spend any time or effort on what they're 
wearing at all, or just can't be bothered to try to get it right.  If I see someone 
who very obviously gave it their best shot for their current knowledge, then 
I can be a lot more charitable about the stuffed mushroom that they seem to be 
wearing on their head.  What really brings out my snarky side are things like 
lame', fringe, too much skin covered by FAR too little fabric, and the 
teenagers in all-black "garb" wandering the lanes as though there really were a 
bunch of vampires roaming freely about Medieval England.

-Tiff
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Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2004 20:05:42 -0600 (CST)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Norman sleeves (was: My personal favorite critique
	ROFL)
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On Fri, 5 Mar 2004, Maura Folsom wrote:

> (Actually, I am referring to the boat-shaped sleeve. I think the
> trumpet-shape was probably done with gores, set in on seams or cuts in
> the cloth, like a tunic's skirt is constructed.)

I'm not sure if we're talking about the same thing, then. I wouldn't
necessarily use "boat-shaped" to describe the sleeve shape I was
analyzing. But then again, I'm not sure what "boat-shaped" means for a
sleeve.

I think you might want to reserve judgment on comparing methods till you
can get your hands on my article again. The cuff pieces in my method are
essentially the offcuts of the body, trimmed slightly to round/smooth out
the edges. Not terribly wasteful, no more than other
trimming/rounding/smoothing that's seen on other garments of roughly this
period. And, given that the pieces do begin as geometrics, it's not
counter to "rectangular construction" (which means that the pieces are
originally cut geometrically, but can involve some shaping to the pieces
after that cutting). The same type of shaping is done in this period at
the sides of the torso, for instance, particularly as side-lacing to
narrow the waist was introduced -- yet that's still fundamentally a
geometric cut.

> The sleeve cut isn't completely identical, obviously, as I learned it
> from a lady named Melisande in 1996, and not from your article. What
> is similar is the general shape (a boat-shape, though I did not curve
> the bottom of my cuff) and the back curve from a narrower sleeve to a
> wide cuff being cut into the sleeve, rather than peiced in. What's
> mostly different is the scale, as my blue gown's sleeves are cut as a
> Very Large exaggerated bell that goes into a boat-shaped cuff, where
> your diagrammed sleeves are somewhat more conservative in size.

Hmm. I think you'll want to read the article (not just look at the
diagram) to follow my logic, which relates the changing proportions of the
sleeve to the changing proportions in the body. As the body pieces changed
shape, the offcuts changed shape, and the new sleeve shape emerged.
However, I don't think this approach would generate a cuff on a bell
sleeve, and thus what you call a difference in "scale" is actually pretty
fundamental difference in approach. (Also, fabric width is a crucial issue
here, because it affects the angles of the body gores, which in turn
affects the angles of the offcuts.)

That's not to say that your approach wouldn't be logical as well, but it
does sound like you're coming up with something quite different from what
I was focusing on, and so the method of getting there would necessarily
differ.

> The main difference between your method and mine is that I piece in
> the curve below the arm with a square gusset, rather than cutting a
> curve into the sleeve shape.

I am intrigued by your mention of a square gusset. My method does have a
square underarm gusset (actually, a double triangle, which I find both
strong and flexible), but I'm guessing you mean a gusset facing the other
way, to create an expansion in the sleeve as you approach the cuff? A
square guesset seems a logical way to create such an expansion, but this
does tell me that you're almost certainly dealing with a different sleeve
shape, as mine does not do that -- it's a reasonably straight sleeve that
drops suddenly into a long cuff as it nears the wrist.

Here's one image of such a sleeve; there are many others in art, but I
don't know if they're online. This is from the Bayeux Tapestry. Look at
the small lady in the building in the center of the panel:
 http://www.hastings1066.com/pics/tap24.jpg 
...and note the sudden drop-off of cuff from the straight sleeve. That's
what I was working on.

Looking only at my cutting diagram, you might get a different impression
of the shape, because the cuff piece is cut to a double width, to be
folded back. It looks much fatter laid out flat than it does in wear. This
may have left you with the impression that it was a "boat-shaped" sleeve.
The expansion into the cuff begins midway on the forearm. Once the cuff is
folded back, it pretty much hides the junction of sleeve into cuff,
creating the image of a straight sleeve with long perpendicular cuff.
There's a photo of the dress in wear that shows this more clearly, with
the article.

(For those who have seen me lecture: This is the blue dress I use as an
example of "pre-fitted" fashion in my Gothic Fitted Dress talk.)

>  > BTW, the sleeves with the pendant cuffs are pieced, mid-arm.
> 
> So are mine :) I think that's just costume-common-sense. Mine have a
> strip of trimming over the seam.

I only mentioned it because your first message indicated that you thought
mine were not. However, from your picture, I'm guessing yours are pieced
over the bicep. Mine are pieced much further down, around the elbow, maybe
lower. The cuff expansion begins below that.

(BTW, to digress, have you found much evidence for an upper-arm trim band
in this period in English or French art? I feel as though I've seen it,
but when I go to look for it, I never find it. I wonder if I picked up the
idea from some Victorian costume book. I'd be relieved to know it's out
there, on someone who isn't a saint, queen, or allegorical figure.)

> The size of the long cuff and square gore is really dictated by the
> amount of fabric left after cutting the skirt gores.

That's as it should be. ;-) You may well have a perfectly logical method
to produce a different sleeve shape from the one I addressed in my
article.

> There's some archeological evidence for this method (but without a
> pendant cuff), in Cristina Frieder Waugh's article _Well Cut Through
> the Body_ that was published in Dress a few years ago (That's also in
> storage, apparently).

Bleah. I thought I could put my hands right on my copy, but it is
evidently off having a beer with yours, or something.

> I cut my pendant cuffs as rectangles, my sleeves as rectangles, and
> piece in the curve with a square gusset to form the curve. It works
> nicely, without any stiffenss along the curve, such as a seam may
> cause.  That stiffness, from a seam on the bias, plus the fact that a
> shaped pattern piece (even if one is not using a pattern) is counter
> to the idea of rectangular construction, are the factors that make me
> uncomfortable with using that method.

I think if you look closer at what I wrote, you'll find these are not
issues after all. Essentially, my sleeves are rectangles, my pendant cuffs
are geometric offcuts from the gores, and the "curve" where you have a
gusset is nonexistent on mine. I only put some shaping into the offcut to
smooth out the abrupt shift from sleeve to cuff. I could use a gusset to
do that, but if I did, it would be no larger than the underarm gusset,
that's how minimal the "curve" is. 

(I might play around and see if a gusset-based construction presents
itself. The construction I'm using originally popped out at me because of
the shape of the offcut when I cut a close-bodied tunic; I didn't have to
do much fooling with it to produce the cuff -- it was a question of "take
the leftover piece and stick it on the end of the sleeve." And that's why
I suspect it may have happened the same way in the period, to produce the
idea of the long hanging cuff where none had ever existed before. However,
if you already have in your head that you're aiming for a long hanging
cuff, you might go at it differently.)

The other bit of shaping I do is to round off the point at the bottom. I
note in the article that if there is enough material for underarm gussets
from other trimmings, that the rounding can be done quite low, with only a
shred of waste; if not, you nip off the bottom to use as underarm gussets,
and end up with a shorter, broader cuff. Both variants -- long and almost
pointy, short and squarish -- appear in the artwork.

> Some of those narrow cuffs, BTW, may not actually have been narrow.
> One of the ladies at Chartres with what appear to be narrow pendant
> cuffs actually has fine vertical pleats carved on her cuffs, which
> would seem indicate that it's a wider rectangle that's been pleated
> into a narrow shape... Norman High Fashion is as capricious as modern
> Haute Couture, it would seem.

There are a lot of sleeve variations (and body variations) in the Chartres
sculptures, many of which apparently no parallel in other media. THe
specific development I was addressing was the sudden emergence of the
hitherto unseen narrow hanging cuff, around the end of the 11th century.  
I would expect other, later developments to represent further changes in
cutting technique.

--Robin


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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Garb Snarks
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2004 22:02:36 -0600
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Oh my. Had a visual of an Elisabeth. Main fabric a gingerbread color with
white and pink piping all over. Gumdrop coloured buttons with crystal beads
sewn on top to simulate sugar. black freshwater pearls for bead strands that
look like raisins, and a peppermint swirl drop for the fob. and licorice
looking ties. This can be applied to Landsknecht with a peppermint swirl
drop for the hat.

De


<Is that like little cookies made into clothing shapes??
Albra
(getting these funny little visuals of gingerbread elizabetheans
doublets ---and choking tea all over her keyboard!)

Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:


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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Garb Snarks
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2004 22:32:45 -0600
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Oh yes the "I am period, I'm Gothic and vampires are period because of Vlad
(sp?){the impaler} was a vampire and everyone wore black because they
couldn't afford colors in that area." This honestly came from a
white/bleached blond, raccoon eyed young woman (18?)wearing a Morticia
Addams style dress with a studded collar, and blood red lipstick.
Of coarse I wasn't the one to point out her discrepancies in attire for pre
1600s. My friend did. I usually don't at renfares.
As for the women in chain mail bikinis that are not in shape to wear them.
These women (and men) who wear so little who should wear so much. I am happy
for them that they can be comfortable with their bodies that they have no
problems showing it off in public. I apply the channel rule, If I don't like
it I don't have to watch. But sometimes there are those moments that
mesmerize you and you can't turn away cause you can't believe what your
looking at.

De

-----Original Message-----

How very true!  I've been guilty of it as well and have consciously tried to
stop this habit.  But honestly, when you see the woman wandering around the
1533 renaissance faire wearing a chain mail bikini (and more often than not,
there are rolls hanging out every edge of said bikini), it can be VERY
difficult
to keep that resolution!!!

teenagers in all-black "garb" wandering the lanes as though there really
were a
bunch of vampires roaming freely about Medieval England.

-Tiff
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Garb Snarks
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That is _so_ evil -!!
Can I be you in my next life? Pyro

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of otsisto
Sent: Friday, March 05, 2004 10:03 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Garb Snarks

Oh my. Had a visual of an Elisabeth. Main fabric a gingerbread color
with
white and pink piping all over. Gumdrop coloured buttons with crystal
beads
sewn on top to simulate sugar. black freshwater pearls for bead strands
that
look like raisins, and a peppermint swirl drop for the fob. and licorice
looking ties. This can be applied to Landsknecht with a peppermint swirl
drop for the hat.

De


<Is that like little cookies made into clothing shapes??
Albra
(getting these funny little visuals of gingerbread elizabetheans
doublets ---and choking tea all over her keyboard!)

Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Garb Snarks
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Oh wow, does she have documentation for Valley elves? :)

When I had the time I went to Powwows. I had a woman come up to me one time
and she started telling what was wrong with my dance outfit. After 5 minutes
of her railing on me about how my outfit was not a proper Cherokee dress, I
informed her  that it wasn't a Traditional Cherokee dress, its patterned
after an 1800s Mohawk outfit. She then said  in a small voice "oh" pursed
her lips and stomped away.

De
-----Original Message-----
    Years ago in California there was a Fantasy Faire (maybe it still
happens I don't know).  I was reading a review of the first one in the L.A.
Times and they interviewed one of the participants.  I will have to
paraphrase as it was years ago, but she said something like."  I am a 13th
century Elf, this is a dirk, that's the sort of knife that elves carried in
the 13th century".  I always wondered where she got her documentation!

Cheers,
Ron


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Way back when, in the early 80's a common misconception was that trousers
did not exist and there was not such thing as belt loops. This was what was
being taught in our shire and elsewhere.
I happened to be at one of the shire's costume intro, the woman speaking was
taking a little info and running 50 miles with it. Sadly I let some personal
feelings motivate me to speak after the presentation instead of taking her
aside and telling her about several things she said that were not period and
were.
I find that many of the people who snark  tend to have knowledge of only one
area of Europe. For example on AIPON some people were applying English style
to a Portuguese outfit.
You know, thinking through the past I come to realize that I may have been
the first person in my section of the kingdom to have made a bliaut and
Italian ren. As I made both of these in '82 while everyone wore standard t
tunics. Oh well enough reminiscing.

De




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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Silliness:  was - Garb Snarks
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2004 23:23:05 -0600
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Maybe a partlet with a bright pink collar with rhinestones or crystal beads.
And a black fuzzy hat with pink bows on each side along the hat band. Maybe
the chain could be the belt that has the long extension down the front and
connect to the poodle.

De

-----Original Message-----
Some of these ideas are great-

         I must admit that I have one in the works...  based on my nickname
of "Poodle Lady"...
         Elizabethan in black  with a screaming pink forepart... and on the
forepart a silver chain running down to a black appliqued poodle.   Think
1950s poodle skirt,  gone 1550s...   And that's it.

Bridgette.


>Oooh.  That's evil.  I might have to steal it!
>I've got two "fun" outfits in the planning stages.  One is a fitted gown
>and surcoat combination--Teddy's fault, as he was the one who challenged
>me to actually *do* something from pink and orange.  The fitted gown is
>fuschia-pink worsted wool (with a matching pink linen lining), and the
>surcoat is tangerine-orange velvet.  I should look like a large sunrise in
>it! <g> I'll wear it on Saturday mornings at SCA camping events as a
>"hangover revenge" outfit, since I don't stay up late and party...
>I'm also known as a "stealth laurel" (old, long in-joke), and I've been
>threatening for years to show up at some future peer-laden event or
>meeting dressed in Camo Elizabethan, but I heard that's been done.  So
>I've been thinking, maybe Urban Camo? Inexpensive twill fabric that I
>could paint and distress and add things like possible 16th c. graffiti to?
>--sue

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Subject: [h-cost] Off Kilter   Was (RE: Ouch! BAD memories!)
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-----Original Message-----
Oh lets one up this.
At festival there were several men walking around (like peacocks) pretending
to be Scots. All of them were wearing plaid of various fabric and print (no
wool) but the design and pleating looked like it was from a Catholic school
girl's skirt pattern. One of the "kilts" was a Catholic uniform skirt.
Sadly, these men thought they were actually wearing kilts

>...So I try to stay within the bounds of reason, and just have fun.  If
>people have a problem with it they can go discuss it with the guy in the
>plaid flannel kilt.

Cripes -- I've seen that guy! Well, a similarly-dressed guy. <*shudders*>
One of the folk who, for a while, was hanging out with the rennies in our
STAR TREK club. First time I met him, he was bragging about his supposed
experience fitting young women's corsets, embellishing his description
with... I'd call them obscene gestures, except that he was *performing* the
acts he was describing. <*shudder*> At least he kept his hands on himself
<*shudder*> The first faire after that we went to, he wore a cotton
flannelette "kilt"; it was beyond laughable (especially compared to the
fellow he was trying to imitate)...

I really did *not* need those images popping back into my brain, *thank*
you!


Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar  6 02:35:12 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Off Kilter   Was (RE: Ouch! BAD memories!)
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> -----Original Message-----
> Oh lets one up this.
> At festival there were several men walking around (like peacocks) 
> pretending
> to be Scots. All of them were wearing plaid of various fabric and 
> print (no
> wool) but the design and pleating looked like it was from a Catholic 
> school
> girl's skirt pattern. One of the "kilts" was a Catholic uniform skirt.
> Sadly, these men thought they were actually wearing kilts
>
>> ...So I try to stay within the bounds of reason, and just have fun.  
>> If
>> people have a problem with it they can go discuss it with the guy in 
>> the
>> plaid flannel kilt.

Ugh.  That's *exactly* a description of my ex-boyfriend and his 
friends.  I'd try every thing in my arsenal to get them into even 
something vaguely more period than a badly wrapped plaid flannel sheet 
at SCA events, but every attempt was met with such enlightened rebukes 
like "That's gay.  I'm not wearing that.  I don't want to look stupid."

So says the guy in the cheesy skirt.

Sarah
http://www.modehistorique.com

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar  6 04:27:49 2004
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Manly men don't wear tights  (was: Off Kilter) 
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I have noticed though that a man in a late period outfit is usually
considered:
A. Gay
B. Married
C. Going to be married
D. Momma sewed it.

B & C reasoning is that no woman would go to all that trouble to make a late
period garment for a man unless she's got him hook, line and sinker.
Many men don't consider late period noblemen outfits to be manly, nor do
they consider the outfits to be "babe" magnets. This type of thinking is
usually found more among the younger men then the older more secure men.

De

-----Original Message-----

Ugh.  That's *exactly* a description of my ex-boyfriend and his
friends.  I'd try every thing in my arsenal to get them into even
something vaguely more period than a badly wrapped plaid flannel sheet
at SCA events, but every attempt was met with such enlightened rebukes
like "That's gay.  I'm not wearing that.  I don't want to look stupid."

So says the guy in the cheesy skirt.

Sarah
http://www.modehistorique.com

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar  6 04:44:27 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Manly men don't wear tights  (was: Off Kilter) 
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I always said that if Mel Gibson had done a period movie set in the 
16th century, wearing the hose and pumpkin pants with a codpiece, that 
95% of the male population between the ages of 16 and 35 would have 
decided it was "manly" and rather than seeing a bunch of kilts at SCA 
events, you'd see a lot of late period personas.

I kept trying to convince my ex that his ancestors must have had no 
problem finding dates while wearing slops, because he was here 500 
years later.  Didn't phase him.    He still vehemently refused to wear 
anything other than the "great" kilt.  Tried to convince him that 
medieval Irish (which he claimed was his persona) didn't wear kilts.  
Again, it was like talking to a brick wall.  Finally, I gave up and 
dumped him.  I know it sounds harsh, but I want a guy who is not afraid 
of tights!  ;)

No, seriously, the relationship ended for other reasons, but that's 
still a major sore spot for me to this day.   I have very low tolerance 
for men in kilts as a result... Unless, of course, we're talking about 
Jacobian reenactors.  *Rowr*  ;)

Sarah
http://www.modehistorique.com

On Saturday, March 6, 2004, at 01:27  AM, otsisto wrote:

> I have noticed though that a man in a late period outfit is usually
> considered:
> A. Gay
> B. Married
> C. Going to be married
> D. Momma sewed it.
>
> B & C reasoning is that no woman would go to all that trouble to make 
> a late
> period garment for a man unless she's got him hook, line and sinker.
> Many men don't consider late period noblemen outfits to be manly, nor 
> do
> they consider the outfits to be "babe" magnets. This type of thinking 
> is
> usually found more among the younger men then the older more secure 
> men.
>
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Ugh.  That's *exactly* a description of my ex-boyfriend and his
> friends.  I'd try every thing in my arsenal to get them into even
> something vaguely more period than a badly wrapped plaid flannel sheet
> at SCA events, but every attempt was met with such enlightened rebukes
> like "That's gay.  I'm not wearing that.  I don't want to look stupid."
>
> So says the guy in the cheesy skirt.
>
> Sarah
> http://www.modehistorique.com

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Manly men don't wear tights  (was: Off Kilter)
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Sarah wrote:

> I always said that if Mel Gibson had done a period movie set in the 16th 
> century, wearing the hose and pumpkin pants with a codpiece, that 95% of 
> the male population between the ages of 16 and 35 would have decided it 
> was "manly" 

I had a .sig line for a while after Star Wars Ep I came out:

"Darth Maul: Proof that men in skirts can be very butch."

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent
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From: "Dianne & Greg Stucki" <goofy1@suscom.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPAEHPCCAA.otsisto@socket.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Manly men don't wear tights  (was: Off Kilter) 
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 06:32:34 -0500
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> B & C reasoning is that no woman would go to all that trouble to make a
late
> period garment for a man unless she's got him hook, line and sinker.
> Many men don't consider late period noblemen outfits to be manly, nor do
> they consider the outfits to be "babe" magnets. This type of thinking is
> usually found more among the younger men then the older more secure men.
>
> De


And the sad part is, a man in well fitting tights IS a babe magnet. What, do
they think we don't look at butts? I saw a fellow at an event last year who
looked like he had stepped out of an Italian Renaissance painting. It's
actually one of my favorite event memories--it was early on a misty morning,
and I was coming down from my cabin with the kids for breakfast, and there
stood this perfectly dressed man, in front of a gorgeous pavilion. Juggling
oranges. Just for a minute, I felt truly transported.

Dianne




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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Manly men don't wear tights  (was: Off Kilter) 
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 05:51:25 -0700
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I second Dianne's sentiments, and love the image.   There are a few people
that truly just have the 'look'.  (Some without clothes!).  And for those of
us who do look at butts (but calves too!)  tights are the way to go!

Sg


> And the sad part is, a man in well fitting tights IS a babe magnet. What,
do
> they think we don't look at butts? I saw a fellow at an event last year
who
> looked like he had stepped out of an Italian Renaissance painting. It's
> actually one of my favorite event memories--it was early on a misty
morning,
> and I was coming down from my cabin with the kids for breakfast, and there
> stood this perfectly dressed man, in front of a gorgeous pavilion.
Juggling
> oranges. Just for a minute, I felt truly transported.
> 
> Dianne


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From: "Chiara" <chiara@io.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Manly men don't wear tights  (was: Off Kilter) 
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You left out ...
E. Or Monarch of some group and someone one wants to show off their work ...
for free! :)

Chiara
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2004 3:27 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Manly men don't wear tights (was: Off Kilter)


: I have noticed though that a man in a late period outfit is usually
: considered:
: A. Gay
: B. Married
: C. Going to be married
: D. Momma sewed it.
:
: B & C reasoning is that no woman would go to all that trouble to make a
late
: period garment for a man unless she's got him hook, line and sinker.
: Many men don't consider late period noblemen outfits to be manly, nor do
: they consider the outfits to be "babe" magnets. This type of thinking is
: usually found more among the younger men then the older more secure men.
:
: De
:
: -----Original Message-----
:
: Ugh.  That's *exactly* a description of my ex-boyfriend and his
: friends.  I'd try every thing in my arsenal to get them into even
: something vaguely more period than a badly wrapped plaid flannel sheet
: at SCA events, but every attempt was met with such enlightened rebukes
: like "That's gay.  I'm not wearing that.  I don't want to look stupid."
:
: So says the guy in the cheesy skirt.
:
: Sarah
: http://www.modehistorique.com
:
: _______________________________________________
: h-costume mailing list
: h-costume@mail.indra.com
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:
: _______________________________________________
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I'm going to make (this summer) a hood from LoTR fellowship fabric. 
Well, it'll actually be a pattern *similar* to the Real Thing, which I 
definitely cannot afford.  I don't have a big enough loom for cloak 
fabric.  It's only a 24" table loom, and yeah, I suppose, technically, I 
could weave enough fabric on it for a cloak, but *my gawd* the warp 
would be long! <g>
--sue, who also wants a smocked hobbit shirt....

fastusminimus wrote:

> Life is just full o surprises! Next biiiig project will probably be a 
> hand spun/woven cloak or coat of LOTR Fellowship style cloth---so tell 
> me it's not *authentic* <VVBEG> Elf re-enacting can be very relaxing! 
> Especially when taking a break from tryin to fit a corset by oneself <G>


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From: KATHRYN WOLTERS <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Manly men don't wear tights  (was: Off Kilter) 
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I was very lucky--at least for  little while:) When my 'then soon to be husband' said he'd be willing to 'try' comeing to SCA events with me ---I put a costumne book in front of him --and flipped thru a lot a different time periods. Which one, I asked , did he feel most comfortable with?To my utter amazement , this rather shy, Dutch transplant to the US pointed out an Italian Ren outfirt --complete with tights--in bright red and gold, no less. So, that is EXACTLY what he got---and being the 6 ' 1" triathelete that he is, he MOST
CERTAINLY has the bunns for this. It was amusing to watch all my friends --as well as complete strangers--both male and female-- openly drool and walk into walls looking at him. *Sigh* I guess the fact that a lot of triatheletes wear 'tight's anyway to work out in--totally diffused the issue  of it being 'manly ' :) It was a pity, when , 5 years later, he decided that the SCA was just a little bit 'too time intensive for him '--and was cutting into his training workouts too much:( So, he put away his gorgeous Italian clothes--although , I still get to see him, in tights periodically:) (evil grin)
Albra

"Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net> wrote:
I second Dianne's sentiments, and love the image. There are a few people
that truly just have the 'look'. (Some without clothes!). And for those of
us who do look at butts (but calves too!) tights are the way to go!

Sg


> And the sad part is, a man in well fitting tights IS a babe magnet. What,
do
> they think we don't look at butts? I saw a fellow at an event last year
who
> looked like he had stepped out of an Italian Renaissance painting. It's
> actually one of my favorite event memories--it was early on a misty
morning,
> and I was coming down from my cabin with the kids for breakfast, and there
> stood this perfectly dressed man, in front of a gorgeous pavilion.
Juggling
> oranges. Just for a minute, I felt truly transported.
> 
> Dianne


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar  6 10:36:35 2004
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Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2004 08:39:08 -0700
From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Garb Snarks
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It'd work better if done in marzipan!
--sue, having her own mental parade of having "prizes" to hand out to 
snarks--make little gingerbread people dressed in marzipan clothing, 
which could be given out with a sweetly-voiced statement about hoping 
the treat improves someone's attitude.....

KATHRYN WOLTERS wrote:

> Is that like little cookies made into clothing shapes??
> Albra 
> (getting these funny little visuals of gingerbread elizabetheans doublets ---and choking tea all over her keyboard!)
> 
> Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:
> 
> On Fri, 5 Mar 2004, otsisto wrote:
> 
> 
>>I actually invisioned when you said that was, flannel plaid made into
>>norse garb and carrying axes, with a sign that says "I'm a lumberjack
>>and I'm OK....
> 
> 
> I sympathize. Every time I see this subject line, my brain reads it as
> "Garb Snacks."
> 
> 
>>Ah where the mind will go when on pain killers.
> 
> 
> Or cough medicine.
> 
> --Robin, coughing
> 
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar  6 10:37:56 2004
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Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2004 08:39:50 -0700
From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Garb Snarks
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Where did you put all that piping?
--sue/maire

Helen Pinto wrote:

> Sue wrote:
> I've been
> 
>>threatening for years to show up at some future peer-laden event or
>>meeting dressed in Camo Elizabethan, but I heard that's been done.
> 
> 
> Guilty as charged, but that was a long time ago- early 80's.  Nearly 50 yds
> of black piping went on it, too.
>             -Helen/Aidan
> 
> 
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar  6 10:50:19 2004
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From: Lil Sorepaws <sorepaws@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] OT: Butting In .. (was Real men don't wear tights)
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I'm not sure if they still hold it, but MIRF used to have a "men in
tights" contest that was truely droolworthy.  A man wearing a nice set of
tights (preferably NOT exercise or nylon biking tights that are half sheer
and leave nothing to the imagination .. pardon the vulgarity but I would
rather not be able to accurately estimate someone's ability to father
children just by glancing at the front of his tights ;) and a doublet or
even a well constructed shirt is to me far more sexy than some guy wearing
a plaid sheet bundled at his waist with his fishbelly white potbelly
hanging over the beltbuckle. (*thinks of her ex Bill and cackles at the
memory*)

Maybe I'm odd (*GRIN*) but one of my pet peeves with guys in tights is
when they match those with short "shoes" or boots as opposed to knee of
thigh boots.  To me the ankles just look FUNNY in slippers or fitted short
boots - giving their legs an almost drumstick effect.  My boytoy wears a
kilt with those fitted short boots (at least its an authentic kilt ...
*sigh*) and I keep trying to get him into something sexier ... I even
bought him NICE knee high cavalier boots and some very "pettable" tights
(he has the buns for em - he just thinks tights are for sissies - LOL ..
maybe PINK VELVET tights (thinking the fops at Faire ..) but a nicely
shaped man in tights who has the tush for it ..... Now I know shoes were
far more period than boots if we are to judge from the portraits etc.. but
give me a man in manly boots any day .. ooh ;)

- Lil (someone hand me a kerchief please?  I'm drooling ;)


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar  6 10:59:55 2004
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re:Norman gown was  [h-cost] My personal favorite critique ROFL
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Hey, I like that one (the gown, that is!) One of your commentors 
mentions your website, but it's not in your sig line???
I'm asking because my local SCA group wants to do a workshop on Norman 
belts, and having some ideas, etc. on clothing to go with would be nice!
--sue

Maura Folsom wrote:

> Mine is from one of my entries 
> http://amiperiodornot.com/details.mhtml?image_id=16 :
> "If you're a Norman, why viking dress?"


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> Where did you put all that piping?
> --sue/maire
>

I shouldn't have called it piping- it was actually a 3/16" flat black braid.
It was applied near the edges of all the tabs on the peplum and the epaulets
and in a pattern following the seams and edges of the bodice.  More than
half went into bands on the skirt.  If you're going to use the camo, you
might as well just go all the way.  It was just another one of those
projects that got out of hand.  On the other hand, it was fun to watch the
heads snap out on the road.
                    -Helen/Aidan


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Subject: [h-cost] Woman's viking kaftan
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Hello,

Does anyone know where I can find more info on the woman's viking kaftan?
I have a vikingweekend coming up around easter, and as it is still very 
cold here I would like to wear something over my tunic and apron dress.

Esther Stouten aka lady Morwenna of Morwenstow


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Subject: Re: [h-cost]History with at twist (was Garb Snarks)
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Years ago when I first got into costuming, I stumbled accross a book in the
University of Saskatchewan library that had a stunning photograph of a
lovely African lady in full Elizbethan. The catch: the fabrics used for her
gown were all animal/African prints in shades of orange, black and brown -
zebra, leapord, you name it! They had her sitting on a dock with a tall ship
behind her. Lovely!

As I recall this same book had some of the Elizabethan Blackadder costumes
in it as well. Does anyone here know what this book is, I never wrote the
title down as I had been looking for something else at the time...

Sheridan

----- Original Message -----
From: "Helen Pinto" <hpinto@mindspring.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2004 1:03 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Garb Snarks


>
> > Where did you put all that piping?
> > --sue/maire
> >
>
> I shouldn't have called it piping- it was actually a 3/16" flat black
braid.
> It was applied near the edges of all the tabs on the peplum and the
epaulets
> and in a pattern following the seams and edges of the bodice.  More than
> half went into bands on the skirt.  If you're going to use the camo, you
> might as well just go all the way.  It was just another one of those
> projects that got out of hand.  On the other hand, it was fun to watch the
> heads snap out on the road.
>                     -Helen/Aidan
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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Esther Stouten wrote:
> Hello,
> 
> Does anyone know where I can find more info on the woman's viking kaftan?
> I have a vikingweekend coming up around easter, and as it is still very 
> cold here I would like to wear something over my tunic and apron dress.


Hi,
	You might try Folkwear's Turkish Coat. The style is very 
similar to some dress construction (ok, if you leave off the 
fancy ethnic stuff) - so it's basically like making an 
overdress that you've split up the center front and given an 
overlap.
	It also looks very similar to one of the Swedish silver 
figures who seems to be wearing a coat.

	-Judy Mitchell

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Oh, absolutely! ;o)
--sue, still shuddering at the joint poodle-elizabethan that's evolving 
on the list

Helen Pinto wrote:
>>Where did you put all that piping?
>>--sue/maire
>>
> 
> 
> I shouldn't have called it piping- it was actually a 3/16" flat black braid.
> It was applied near the edges of all the tabs on the peplum and the epaulets
> and in a pattern following the seams and edges of the bodice.  More than
> half went into bands on the skirt.  If you're going to use the camo, you
> might as well just go all the way.  It was just another one of those
> projects that got out of hand.  On the other hand, it was fun to watch the
> heads snap out on the road.
>                     -Helen/Aidan
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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I don't know about your book, let alone the UofS library <g>, but I do 
remember the African Elizabethan.  I *think* it's mentioned in an old 
_Threads_ magazine.  I'll dig through my pile and look for it this weekend.
--sue

Shane & Sheridan wrote:

> Years ago when I first got into costuming, I stumbled accross a book in the
> University of Saskatchewan library that had a stunning photograph of a
> lovely African lady in full Elizbethan. The catch: the fabrics used for her
> gown were all animal/African prints in shades of orange, black and brown -
> zebra, leapord, you name it! They had her sitting on a dock with a tall ship
> behind her. Lovely!
> 
> As I recall this same book had some of the Elizabethan Blackadder costumes
> in it as well. Does anyone here know what this book is, I never wrote the
> title down as I had been looking for something else at the time...


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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Garb Snarks or Snacks
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 12:52:24 -0800
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I came back after being as a Symposium for a week and found 1150 unread
messages.  Unfortunately this thread was the first I looked at.  I hate the
topic, but it's worse than crack for addictiveness.  (must read.. No!  Just
Say NO!... must read...)

	It was so wonderful when it turned from the negativity of Snark to Snack
and the classic memory of seeing Sedalia in that cammo Tudor at Pennsic
(that is who you made it for, wasn't it Aidan? (grin - what a very clear
memory of her sailing into the wind with the big sleeves puffed up like
balloons!)

	On one of my other lists, people mention being able to tell silk from other
"silk like" fabrics by tasting.  I can see it now.  Someone coming up to see
if your garb is a "period fabric" by nibbling on it.  Or is you honestly
have a real case of garb snark ... Might be even better than cleaning their
glasses for them!


Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey
Never attribute to malice what can as easily
be attributed to simple social ineptness



> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Helen Pinto
> Sent: Friday, March 05, 2004 9:15 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Garb Snarks
>
>
> No, never been to the West Coast.  In any case, it wasn't for me-
> I made it
> for the Pennsic autocrat.  I don't know if she wore it any place
> other than
> Coopers'.
>            -Helen/Aidan
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "KATHRYN WOLTERS" <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Friday, March 05, 2004 12:02 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Garb Snarks
>
>
> > Di you ever wear it to a West Coast Costumner's College? I
> think I saw it!
> I loved it:)
> > Albra
> >
> > Helen Pinto <hpinto@mindspring.com> wrote:
> > Sue wrote:
> > I've been
> > > threatening for years to show up at some future peer-laden event or
> > > meeting dressed in Camo Elizabethan, but I heard that's been done.
> >
> > Guilty as charged, but that was a long time ago- early 80's.
> Nearly 50 yds
> > of black piping went on it, too.
> > -Helen/Aidan
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Search - Find what you're looking for faster.
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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>


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar  6 15:51:57 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost]History with at twist (was Garb Snarks)
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It was "The Costume Maker's Art".  I don't think it's in print any 
more, but I have a copy.  Would you like me to scan the image for you?

Sarah
http://www.modehistorique.com


On Saturday, March 6, 2004, at 11:07  AM, Shane & Sheridan wrote:

> Years ago when I first got into costuming, I stumbled accross a book 
> in the
> University of Saskatchewan library that had a stunning photograph of a
> lovely African lady in full Elizbethan. The catch: the fabrics used 
> for her
> gown were all animal/African prints in shades of orange, black and 
> brown -
> zebra, leapord, you name it! They had her sitting on a dock with a 
> tall ship
> behind her. Lovely!
>
> As I recall this same book had some of the Elizabethan Blackadder 
> costumes
> in it as well. Does anyone here know what this book is, I never wrote 
> the
> title down as I had been looking for something else at the time...
>
> Sheridan
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Helen Pinto" <hpinto@mindspring.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2004 1:03 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Garb Snarks
>
>
>>
>>> Where did you put all that piping?
>>> --sue/maire
>>>
>>
>> I shouldn't have called it piping- it was actually a 3/16" flat black
> braid.
>> It was applied near the edges of all the tabs on the peplum and the
> epaulets
>> and in a pattern following the seams and edges of the bodice.  More 
>> than
>> half went into bands on the skirt.  If you're going to use the camo, 
>> you
>> might as well just go all the way.  It was just another one of those
>> projects that got out of hand.  On the other hand, it was fun to 
>> watch the
>> heads snap out on the road.
>>                     -Helen/Aidan
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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>
>
>
_________________________________________________
http://www.elizabethanlady.com

"Those who are willing to sacrifice their basic liberties to assure 
their security deserve neither..."

Benjamin Franklin


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Regina wrote:
> and the classic memory of seeing Sedalia in that cammo Tudor at Pennsic
> (that is who you made it for, wasn't it Aidan? (grin - what a very clear
> memory of her sailing into the wind with the big sleeves puffed up like
> balloons!)

Yup.  It was for Sedalia.  And if I knew then what I know now, or even ten
years ago, it wouldn't have been an eight-piece bodice...  And I might have
made a pair of sleeves...
                  -Helen/Aidan


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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Garb Snarks
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 16:07:24 -0600
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If this is the Camo Elizabethan that was at Pennsic many years ago, it
caused a stir. One woman who believed she was a costume expert (I had my
doubts, most called her a period nazi) asked why would someone do all that
work with camo. I replied "Maybe because they thought it would be fun and
silly?"
I believe that was the Pennsic that there was a contest on the best
camouflaged mundane item.

De

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Helen Pinto
Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2004 12:04 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Garb Snarks



> Where did you put all that piping?
> --sue/maire
>

I shouldn't have called it piping- it was actually a 3/16" flat black braid.
It was applied near the edges of all the tabs on the peplum and the epaulets
and in a pattern following the seams and edges of the bodice.  More than
half went into bands on the skirt.  If you're going to use the camo, you
might as well just go all the way.  It was just another one of those
projects that got out of hand.  On the other hand, it was fun to watch the
heads snap out on the road.
                    -Helen/Aidan


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Talk about a fiberous snack.
Actually you can usually tell real silk by the smell. {Tasting it is a bit
extreme and stores would rather you not damage the merchandise unless you
intend to purchase.)
I don't think you can smell silk 5 feet away unless your downwind from the
person and you know what sweated in silk smells like. :P

De
-----Original Message-----

	On one of my other lists, people mention being able to tell silk from other
"silk like" fabrics by tasting.  I can see it now.  Someone coming up to see
if your garb is a "period fabric" by nibbling on it.  Or is you honestly
have a real case of garb snark ... Might be even better than cleaning their
glasses for them!


Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey
Never attribute to malice what can as easily
be attributed to simple social ineptness



> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Helen Pinto
> Sent: Friday, March 05, 2004 9:15 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Garb Snarks
>
>
> No, never been to the West Coast.  In any case, it wasn't for me-
> I made it
> for the Pennsic autocrat.  I don't know if she wore it any place
> other than
> Coopers'.
>            -Helen/Aidan
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "KATHRYN WOLTERS" <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Friday, March 05, 2004 12:02 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Garb Snarks
>
>
> > Di you ever wear it to a West Coast Costumner's College? I
> think I saw it!
> I loved it:)
> > Albra
> >
> > Helen Pinto <hpinto@mindspring.com> wrote:
> > Sue wrote:
> > I've been
> > > threatening for years to show up at some future peer-laden event or
> > > meeting dressed in Camo Elizabethan, but I heard that's been done.
> >
> > Guilty as charged, but that was a long time ago- early 80's.
> Nearly 50 yds
> > of black piping went on it, too.
> > -Helen/Aidan
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> > ---------------------------------
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> >
>
>
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>


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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Manly men don't wear tights  (was: Off Kilter) 
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 16:17:30 -0600
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Though E. is possible if the man in late period is known. A -D is a list of
what people usually think of the person in late period garb, not the reason
the person is wearing the late period garb.

De
-----Original Message-----

You left out ...
E. Or Monarch of some group and someone one wants to show off their work ...
for free! :)

Chiara

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Manly men don't wear tights  (was: Off Kilter) 
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If you can show men in "tights" being macho and fighting a bloody battle you
stand a chance of getting them in late period garb.
Braveheart increased the wearing of the kilt.

De

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  > To see them, go to Hancock Fabrics
> http://www.hancockfabrics.com
> and put the word "archive" in the search box
> at the top of the page.
> 
> Sheryl N-D

I looked at these in my local store today. They are very nice. The 
fabric isn't too thin and it has a nice smooth finish and a good hand. I 
was sorely tempted to take some home with me. I did not see any kind of 
manufacturer's information on the bolts though. :(

The prints aren't as small as I was expecting from the pictures, there 
was a brown stripe (it's pictured in the sale flyer) that would be a 
very nice dress, and I also liked the gold-brown check with the red dots 
on it.

My store only carries about six each of the red and brown prints, I'll 
have to drive all over town to find the rest of them. I hope they decide 
to reproduce more colors from this period.



Dawn



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De wrote:
"Maybe because they thought it would be fun and
> silly?"

Exactly. 
               -Helen/Aidan
(And if you're going to do it, really do it.)

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Subject: Re: [h-cost]History with at twist (was Garb Snarks)
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The costume Maker's Art, Lark Books.  I'm in it too.

>Years ago when I first got into costuming, I stumbled accross a book in the
>University of Saskatchewan library that had a stunning photograph of a
>lovely African lady in full Elizbethan. The catch: the fabrics used for her
>gown were all animal/African prints in shades of orange, black and brown -
>zebra, leapord, you name it! They had her sitting on a dock with a tall ship
>behind her. Lovely!
>
>As I recall this same book had some of the Elizabethan Blackadder costumes
>in it as well. Does anyone here know what this book is, I never wrote the
>title down as I had been looking for something else at the time...
>
>Sheridan
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Helen Pinto" <hpinto@mindspring.com>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2004 1:03 PM
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Garb Snarks
>
>
> >
> > > Where did you put all that piping?
> > > --sue/maire
> > >
> >
> > I shouldn't have called it piping- it was actually a 3/16" flat black
>braid.
> > It was applied near the edges of all the tabs on the peplum and the
>epaulets
> > and in a pattern following the seams and edges of the bodice.  More than
> > half went into bands on the skirt.  If you're going to use the camo, you
> > might as well just go all the way.  It was just another one of those
> > projects that got out of hand.  On the other hand, it was fun to watch the
> > heads snap out on the road.
> >                     -Helen/Aidan
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


        CarolynKayta Barrows
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          www.FunStuft.com

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar  6 19:14:01 2004
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Manly men don't wear tights  (was: Off Kilter) 
In-Reply-To: <IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPKEIGCCAA.otsisto@socket.net>
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Speaking of macho in tights, forget Braveheart - go for Errol Flynn movies...

>If you can show men in "tights" being macho and fighting a bloody battle you
>stand a chance of getting them in late period garb.
>Braveheart increased the wearing of the kilt.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
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          www.FunStuft.com

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar  6 19:14:35 2004
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Turkey Red fabrics
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Status: RO

Although bed quilts are off topic, I think we have bed-quilt-makers to 
thank for the repro cotton prints we have available to us.  Without them 
and the demand they create, some of us would have a much harder time of it.

Speaking of which, does any company make pre-1800 prints?  I'm looking for 
a broidery-perse-like print for doing mid- to late-1700s with.  I know 
there were painted textiles from China before 1800, and printed ones from 
India, and the beginnings of a printed textile industry in France and 
England.  But does anyone make passable repros of any of these?

>  > To see them, go to Hancock Fabrics
>>http://www.hancockfabrics.com
>>and put the word "archive" in the search box
>>at the top of the page.
>>Sheryl N-D
>
>I looked at these in my local store today. They are very nice. The fabric 
>isn't too thin and it has a nice smooth finish and a good hand. I was 
>sorely tempted to take some home with me. I did not see any kind of 
>manufacturer's information on the bolts though. :(
>
>The prints aren't as small as I was expecting from the pictures, there was 
>a brown stripe (it's pictured in the sale flyer) that would be a very nice 
>dress, and I also liked the gold-brown check with the red dots on it.
>
>My store only carries about six each of the red and brown prints, I'll 
>have to drive all over town to find the rest of them. I hope they decide 
>to reproduce more colors from this period.
>
>
>
>Dawn
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


        CarolynKayta Barrows
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          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Garb Snarks or Snacks
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In a message dated 3/6/2004 4:08:41 PM Central Standard Time, 
otsisto@socket.net writes:
I don't think you can smell silk 5 feet away unless your downwind from the
person and you know what sweated in silk smells like. :P

De



And right about here, let's separate the Snarks from the Snacks!!! ::putting 
down my cheeseburger.  Yuck::

LOL

-Tiff
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Status: RO

I can sure tell silk by the smell, but apparently not everyone can.  I 
think it's been on this list (or maybe another....I'm on too many these 
days!), but it's apparently one of those recessive genetic thangs.  I 
will say, though, that I've been fooled by the feel of some of the 
really good microfibers.  And, oddly enough, I think that silk yarns and 
threads are more distinctly whiffy than silk fabric.  Perhaps it's the 
process that the fabric goes through....
The merino wool I'm spinning doesn't smelly wooly at all until I'm 
rinsing a given skein to set the twist.
And I do admit to having some indifferent difficulty with telling the 
difference at a distance between a 100% linen and a blend (either 
linen/cotton or linen/rayon), unless the blend's really nasty or overly 
shiny and non linenish.  I've got all 3 in my fabric stash, and it's 
only when I work with one type, and then pick up another that I notice 
the difference--the 100% linen has a different "hand" to it, and irons 
up differently.  The rayon/linen blend drapes a bit more softly--more 
like a well-worn linen.
--sue, who's now getting really weird mental images of edible garb......

otsisto wrote:

> Talk about a fiberous snack.
> Actually you can usually tell real silk by the smell. {Tasting it is a bit
> extreme and stores would rather you not damage the merchandise unless you
> intend to purchase.)
> I don't think you can smell silk 5 feet away unless your downwind from the
> person and you know what sweated in silk smells like. :P
> 
> De
> -----Original Message-----
> 
> 	On one of my other lists, people mention being able to tell silk from other
> "silk like" fabrics by tasting.  I can see it now.  Someone coming up to see
> if your garb is a "period fabric" by nibbling on it.  Or is you honestly
> have a real case of garb snark ... Might be even better than cleaning their
> glasses for them!
> 
> 
> Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey
> Never attribute to malice what can as easily
> be attributed to simple social ineptness
> 
> 
> 
> 
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
>>Behalf Of Helen Pinto
>>Sent: Friday, March 05, 2004 9:15 AM
>>To: Historical Costume
>>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Garb Snarks
>>
>>
>>No, never been to the West Coast.  In any case, it wasn't for me-
>>I made it
>>for the Pennsic autocrat.  I don't know if she wore it any place
>>other than
>>Coopers'.
>>           -Helen/Aidan
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "KATHRYN WOLTERS" <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
>>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>>Sent: Friday, March 05, 2004 12:02 PM
>>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Garb Snarks
>>
>>
>>
>>>Di you ever wear it to a West Coast Costumner's College? I
>>
>>think I saw it!
>>I loved it:)
>>
>>>Albra
>>>
>>>Helen Pinto <hpinto@mindspring.com> wrote:
>>>Sue wrote:
>>>I've been
>>>
>>>>threatening for years to show up at some future peer-laden event or
>>>>meeting dressed in Camo Elizabethan, but I heard that's been done.
>>>
>>>Guilty as charged, but that was a long time ago- early 80's.
>>
>>Nearly 50 yds
>>
>>>of black piping went on it, too.
>>>-Helen/Aidan
>>>
>>>
>>>_______________________________________________
>>>h-costume mailing list
>>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>
>>>---------------------------------
>>>Do you Yahoo!?
>>>Yahoo! Search - Find what you're looking for faster.
>>>_______________________________________________
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>>>
>>
>>
>>_______________________________________________
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>>
>>
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Turkey Red fabrics
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>

<snip>

> Speaking of which, does any company make pre-1800 prints?  I'm looking for
> a broidery-perse-like print for doing mid- to late-1700s with.  I know
> there were painted textiles from China before 1800, and printed ones from
> India, and the beginnings of a printed textile industry in France and
> England.  But does anyone make passable repros of any of these?

I actually just wrote a short article on 18th century printed cottons for
the GBACG newsletter --
the online version should be up shortly.  In the meantime, here's are the
bit about repro sources straight from my article:

For those on a budget:
-- Andover Fabrics released a line a year or two ago called "Broderie
Perse." Although these fabrics are more appropriate to nineteenth century
reproductions (the designs are rather dense, the backgrounds rather dark,
and the colors on some fabrics are too pink and green), they would work for
eighteenth-century-esque - stick to the lighter background fabrics. These
fabrics are somewhat hard to find online, and seem to run in the $9/yard
range.
-- P&B Textiles released a series of fabrics a few years ago based on the
DAR Museum collection; #17E and #15E are in original colors and look like
good reproductionss. However, I haven't been able to find any online dealers
that still carry these fabrics so they may no longer be available.
http://www.pbtex.com/html/dar.html

For those with a bit more to spend:
-- Reproduction Fabrics currently offers a fabric (#1S390L) in their
"Other 1775-1825 Fabrics" category that is a reproduction of a Mulhouse (one
of the French fabric mills) 1780 print for $15/yard.
http://www.reproductionfabrics.com/
-- Mad Turban sells Indian blockprinted tapestries that could be used for
reproduction clothing (about $25 for a 60"x90" piece).
http://www.madturban.com/
-- Waverly fabrics has released a collection along with Colonial
Williamsburg (the Tidewater Collection Vol. I), which feature a fabric
called "Indienne." The Colonial Red and the Indigo colors look pretty darn
good. These fabrics seem to run about $25/yard.
http://www.waverly.com/wavis/waverly.asp

For those willing to break the bank:
-- Dutch Quilts offers a number of fabulous reproductions for 25
euros/meter; of their current offerings, the "Wilhelmina," "Hindeloopen,"
"Zaanstreek," and "Island Marken" fabrics (in ecru/madder red) look perfect
for reproductions. http://www.dutchquilts.com/
-- French-Fabrics.com carries a reproduction of a 1790s Jouy (a French
fabric mill) print (#INDI2) for about $33/yard (10% discount for orders of
10-20 yards; 20% discount for 20+ yards). http://www.french-fabrics.com/
-- The French Rendezvous currently offers a fabric (mrm1) that looks like
a pretty good reproduction for $38/yard. http://www.frenchrendezvous

OBLIGATORY HISTORICAL ACCURACY NOTE: Most modern cottons cannot perfectly
reproduce fabrics created in the eighteenth century. Decorator fabric can be
too heavy and have prints that are too large in scale; quilt fabric can be
too light and too tightly woven. If you're a stickler for historical
accuracy, you may want to stay away from cotton prints altogether.

- Kendra

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Garb Snarks
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Hi, All. Carol, you just hit the nail on the head. In any group with 
defined clothing (or costume) standards, there is a better chance that 
any comments will be of the constructive variety. In my old Regiment, 
winter meetings were for presenting current info, and helping members 
upgrade their gear. Anyone could discuss his or her findings, what other 
units were doing and the like. In all of the reenactment groups I have 
been in (since 1976 when I first started reenacting) there has been no 
"snarking" within the groups to which I have belonged. There is the 
famous "FARB" (far be it for me to comment on xyz...) aspect of 
reenacting, but there is certainly a lot less than there could be... 
Sometimes it goes the other way, like the "button-pissers", guys in ACW 
reenacting that "authentically" tarnish their buttons by using urine 
(possibly legendary, I don't personally know anyone that does it). I 
guess, then, that any group that has lax clothing standards is not in 
any position to complain when the clothes are not up to the nonexistant 
"standard" . Mike T.


>     It's a shame that it's so rampant in the SCA, because bad garb is still an 
>attempt at garb, and therefore "right" according to the SCA rules.  Reenactment 
>groups sometimes have written standards and clothing inspectors, to be sure 
>everything worn is within the standards.  Other groups are more lax, and more 
>snarking occurs.
>
>     -Carol
>
>
>  
>

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From: "Diane Maynard" <Camelothorse@earthlink.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Butting In .. (was Real men don't wear tights)
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OMG---Just give me a MAN in tights !!   Be still my heart !!!    Don't they
understand ?   WE are just as bad as men about looking at the opposite sex.
I want to see his LEGS !!!! ( and seeing his toosh does not hurt my feelings
either---perhaps a nice broad include chest ).   NO-----I do not want to see
EVERYTHING explicitly.   I can find that out for myself in private.
AND----WHAT fun learning can be !!!   BUT---are they THAT insecure that they
do NOT want to show their assets ?  If so, what a shame !    They are really
missing out on a LOT of fun.

Diane

PS---to all you men out there----I am 5' 5" and weigh 125 lbs.-- not only
wear Elizabethan but, also stay in persona while riding my horses. (astride
and sidesaddle)


----- Original Message -----
From: "Lil Sorepaws" <sorepaws@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2004 9:49 AM
Subject: [h-cost] OT: Butting In .. (was Real men don't wear tights)


> I'm not sure if they still hold it, but MIRF used to have a "men in
> tights" contest that was truely droolworthy.  A man wearing a nice set of
> tights (preferably NOT exercise or nylon biking tights that are half sheer
> and leave nothing to the imagination .. pardon the vulgarity but I would
> rather not be able to accurately estimate someone's ability to father
> children just by glancing at the front of his tights ;) and a doublet or
> even a well constructed shirt is to me far more sexy than some guy wearing
> a plaid sheet bundled at his waist with his fishbelly white potbelly
> hanging over the beltbuckle. (*thinks of her ex Bill and cackles at the
> memory*)
>
> Maybe I'm odd (*GRIN*) but one of my pet peeves with guys in tights is
> when they match those with short "shoes" or boots as opposed to knee of
> thigh boots.  To me the ankles just look FUNNY in slippers or fitted short
> boots - giving their legs an almost drumstick effect.  My boytoy wears a
> kilt with those fitted short boots (at least its an authentic kilt ...
> *sigh*) and I keep trying to get him into something sexier ... I even
> bought him NICE knee high cavalier boots and some very "pettable" tights
> (he has the buns for em - he just thinks tights are for sissies - LOL ..
> maybe PINK VELVET tights (thinking the fops at Faire ..) but a nicely
> shaped man in tights who has the tush for it ..... Now I know shoes were
> far more period than boots if we are to judge from the portraits etc.. but
> give me a man in manly boots any day .. ooh ;)
>
> - Lil (someone hand me a kerchief please?  I'm drooling ;)
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2004 19:36:25 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Turkey Red fabrics
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>-- P&B Textiles released a series of fabrics a few years ago based on the
>DAR Museum collection; #17E and #15E are in original colors and look like
>good reproductionss. However, I haven't been able to find any online dealers
>that still carry these fabrics so they may no longer be available.
>http://www.pbtex.com/html/dar.html

These were exactly what I was looking for, so of course they're likely 'out 
of print'.  OTOH, I may just block print my own - some of the really simple 
original stuff I've seen is no better than I could do.  And it's just for 
lining so it doesn't have to be perfect.

I've e-mailed my local quilt store to see if they can get these, or 
anything like them.

Thank you so much.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Garb Snarks
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I disagree. I have seen some LHs having standards and still there is
snarking. Perhaps not as much as groups with little or no standards. I would
like to point out that SCA does have standards but not as detailed as LHers
because it covers a broad range of time and area.
Also, there are many people who are in it for costuming or craft and not for
the full authenticity experience. Most period police tend to forget that and
then get annoyed at the person who they think is not authentic to their
standards of periodness because  it bursts they little bubble.

De

-----Original Message-----
Hi, All. Carol, you just hit the nail on the head. In any group with
defined clothing (or costume) standards, there is a better chance that
any comments will be of the constructive variety. In my old Regiment,
winter meetings were for presenting current info, and helping members
upgrade their gear. Anyone could discuss his or her findings, what other
units were doing and the like. In all of the reenactment groups I have
been in (since 1976 when I first started reenacting) there has been no
"snarking" within the groups to which I have belonged. There is the
famous "FARB" (far be it for me to comment on xyz...) aspect of
reenacting, but there is certainly a lot less than there could be...
Sometimes it goes the other way, like the "button-pissers", guys in ACW
reenacting that "authentically" tarnish their buttons by using urine
(possibly legendary, I don't personally know anyone that does it). I
guess, then, that any group that has lax clothing standards is not in
any position to complain when the clothes are not up to the nonexistant
"standard" . Mike T.



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Garb Snarks
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Yep. That was my second best idea for the next Silly Liz contest :-)

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, March 05, 2004 11:02 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Garb Snarks


> Oh my. Had a visual of an Elisabeth. Main fabric a gingerbread color with
> white and pink piping all over. Gumdrop coloured buttons with crystal
beads
> sewn on top to simulate sugar. black freshwater pearls for bead strands
that
> look like raisins, and a peppermint swirl drop for the fob. and licorice
> looking ties. This can be applied to Landsknecht with a peppermint swirl
> drop for the hat.
>
> De
>
>
> <Is that like little cookies made into clothing shapes??
> Albra
> (getting these funny little visuals of gingerbread elizabetheans
> doublets ---and choking tea all over her keyboard!)
>
> Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:
>
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Manly men don't wear tights  (was: Off Kilter)
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> Many men don't consider late period noblemen outfits to be manly, nor do
> they consider the outfits to be "babe" magnets. This type of thinking is
> usually found more among the younger men then the older more secure men.

I think some men just still don't understand what women find attractive...
Nice clothes are always good, especially if they show off your butt. Daring
is good too, if you're willing to wear "obvious" clothing, meaning it's
involved enough that you know everyone's going to look at it, then women
like that too. And many men just refuse to wear the codpiece... :-(
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Subject: [h-cost] Braveheart vs. Errol Flynn
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But in Braveheart the men could be crude, show their arse to the enemy all
that rip roarin' fighters stuff. Errol Flynn on the other hand shows a golly
ol" good time. Not really blood an guts.

Though many of the Errol Flynn and the like type movies did inspired many a
young woman to want to wear the fairytale dresses though they were not
necessarily period.

De
-----Original Message-----
Speaking of macho in tights, forget Braveheart - go for Errol Flynn
movies...

>If you can show men in "tights" being macho and fighting a bloody battle
you
>stand a chance of getting them in late period garb.
>Braveheart increased the wearing of the kilt.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Manly men don't wear tights  (was: Off Kilter)
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Just a side comment --

Historically accurate men -don't- wear tights :)   They wear hose, hosen, or 
stockings  "Tights" are a 19th century invention.

Marc

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Manly men don't wear tights  (was: Off Kilter) 
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> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of otsisto
> Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2004 4:27 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] Manly men don't wear tights (was: Off Kilter)
>
>
> I have noticed though that a man in a late period outfit is usually
> considered:
> A. Gay
> B. Married
> C. Going to be married
> D. Momma sewed it.
>
> B & C reasoning is that no woman would go to all that trouble to
> make a late
> period garment for a man unless she's got him hook, line and sinker.
> Many men don't consider late period noblemen outfits to be manly, nor do
> they consider the outfits to be "babe" magnets. This type of thinking is
> usually found more among the younger men then the older more secure men.
>
> De
>
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

  Young men don't really know what women find attractive.  Of course I wore
tights when I was younger!

	I do have a problem with the above perceptions.  I have never had a women
make me an Elizabethan outfit, and I have worn many!  Of course the same
people who believe the above would categorize me as A. just upon hearing I
sew!

      A similar difficulty is found with dancing.  I used to do a good deal
of Victorian Dancing before I moved to Dance Free Virginia.  Often I would
hear young men refusing to learn to dance because it wasn't manly.  Through
most of history however it was NOT dancing that was unmanly!  Done right it
most certainly is manly (just as you women mention are those tights).  I
laughed last however!  It is unfortunate for the women, but it was great to
be a young talented male (heterosexual) dancer surrounded by too many women
lacking partners!  Oh to be young again!

      Its interesting that this discussion is entangled only in Elizabethan.
I work in the 18th century.  Clothing in that period often are assumed in to
mean much the same as the above letters.  Well actually mostly A again.  In
fact it is a common stereotype in Popular culture. Hose, knee breeches,
lace, floral embroidery, pastel colors, wigs all conspire with modern
judgments that have nothing to do with the period.

Cheers,
Ron

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Garb Snarks or Snacks
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Greetings--

> In a message dated 3/6/2004 4:08:41 PM Central Standard Time,
> otsisto@socket.net writes:
> I don't think you can smell silk 5 feet away unless your downwind from the
> person and you know what sweated in silk smells like. :P

I sure can, particularly if it's silk noile, no sweat required, and probably
from 10 feet.  I remember freaking out some friends while we were in Target
and wandering into the clothing department by suddenly sniffing the air and
saying "I smell silk!"  They thought I was nuts, but I was right....

Susan

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Mar  7 00:19:32 2004
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Sheryl Nance-Durst <sherylnd@kc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Modern Fashion in Detail
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I agree with the other replies - this is worth buying.
I did. <grin>

Seriously though, as the others said, it covers 20th century designer
clothing. The book is divided by type of item shown. For instance, there
are chapters on buttons, seams, bows, applied decoration, etc.
Each item featured has a full-page, close-up color photo of some detail
that fits with the theme of the chapter. On the opposing page, there
are 2 line drawings of the front and back of the full item of clothing from
which the detail photo was taken. Under the drawings is a 2 or 3
paragraph description of the item and sometimes a little about the
designer or the item's history. Since all of the items are owned by the
Victoria & Albert Museum, the description also includes a brief mention
of who donated the item to the museum and what I assume is the
acquisition number.

If you are interested in couture touches and small details, then this is
a very worthwhile book to have. But please note...if you are a beginner,
this will not give much historical detail or show you much of the fashionable
silhouette. It is exactly what the title says -  tiny details of modern 
fashions
shown in glorious, exquisite photos.

Sheryl N-D

At 03:34 PM 3/3/04 -0600, you wrote:
>Can anyone tell me more about this book? I'm having a hard time finding 
>out what the contents are, other than a single review which compares it to 
>_Fashion in detail - 17th & 18th Century_. Is it entirely pictures? Is 
>there any commentary? Diagrams? What are the years that are covered?
>
>My husband's employer is offering books from this publisher at half price, 
>and this is about the only costume book we can find on the list.
>
>
>
>Dawn



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From: "Ron Carnegie" <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Braveheart vs. Errol Flynn
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   There is some truth to this, but it has more to do with when the movies
were made, and not the period represented. (Not that Braveheart had much to
do with its period).  Look at some of the great heros of Elizabethan England
however.  The expoits of Francis Drake, Phillippe Sidney, Roger Williams,
John Norris.  The battles in South America, Ireland, and Holland.  All of
these a bigger than life characters engaged in very heroic and often hard to
believe adventures, and all crude, the period was crude. Much of the humour
was low and scatalogical.  These men were soldiers (well all but one).  All
four of the men I just mentioned had far more Huevos than any of these
gutless wonders afraid to wear hose, and that is exactly the dress of all
four of these men.

R Carnegie
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of otsisto
> Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2004 11:59 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] Braveheart vs. Errol Flynn
>
>
> But in Braveheart the men could be crude, show their arse to the enemy all
> that rip roarin' fighters stuff. Errol Flynn on the other hand
> shows a golly
> ol" good time. Not really blood an guts.
>
> Though many of the Errol Flynn and the like type movies did
> inspired many a
> young woman to want to wear the fairytale dresses though they were not
> necessarily period.
>
> De
> -----Original Message-----
>
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Manly men don't wear tights  (was: Off Kilter)
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 23:29:14 -0600
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I just can't understand why they won't wear the cute red heart codpiece with
the squeaker in it. :)

De
Need to stop now. Too many codpiece designs are starting to run through my
head.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Audrey Bergeron-Morin
Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2004 10:37 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Manly men don't wear tights (was: Off Kilter)


> Many men don't consider late period noblemen outfits to be manly, nor do
> they consider the outfits to be "babe" magnets. This type of thinking is
> usually found more among the younger men then the older more secure men.

I think some men just still don't understand what women find attractive...
Nice clothes are always good, especially if they show off your butt. Daring
is good too, if you're willing to wear "obvious" clothing, meaning it's
involved enough that you know everyone's going to look at it, then women
like that too. And many men just refuse to wear the codpiece... :-(
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Subject: [h-cost] Nun's Habits
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Nun's habits, of course, vary from order to order. Vatican II in no way 
required nun's to change or modernize their habits. Some did; some didn't . 
Their dress is still supposed to be distinctive.

For example, here in Lincoln we have an order of cloistered nuns; The 
Sisters of Christ the King, also known as the pink sisters. Their habit is 
still the full, long style and is bright pink in color. Other orders have 
adopted a shorter style. Still others' are only minimally different from 
everyday dress.

The only book I have found on the subject is "The Habit: A History of the 
Clothing of Catholic Nuns" by Elizabeth Kuhns, published by Doubleday. 
There are a couple of paper doll books available; but they are only 
pictures with minimal information. The ones I have are:

"Holy Habits: Traditional Nun Paper Dolls: Mother Anthony Marie"
"Holy Habits: Traditional Nun Paper Dolls: Sister Mary Grace"

both by Laura Wattles and available from IHS Enterprises.

Pierre



"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE: Manly men don't wear tights  (was: Off Kilter)
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 23:37:53 -0600
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Whatever you call them many men still won't wear them.
Now there is a slow change of attitude with the gaining interest in the
Landesknecht.

De


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Marc Carlson
Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2004 10:47 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] RE: Manly men don't wear tights (was: Off Kilter)


Just a side comment --

Historically accurate men -don't- wear tights :)   They wear hose, hosen, or
stockings  "Tights" are a 19th century invention.

Marc

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Mar  7 00:57:22 2004
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Braveheart vs. Errol Flynn
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 2004 23:56:46 -0600
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I agree with you. It is the portrayal in the movies that "inspire" the men
to wear an article of clothing, not the period. (From what I understand from
my history buff husband, Braveheart took quite a few liberties with
historical accuracies.) So far, (to my knowledge) no one have made an action
packed movie about Drake, Sidney, Williams, or Norris.
Napoleonic living history buffs increased their numbers with the BBC Horatio
Hornblower series and Sharpie's men.
Something that grips the man and says that is a man I want to be (or pretend
to be)
De
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Ron Carnegie
Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2004 11:19 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Braveheart vs. Errol Flynn



   There is some truth to this, but it has more to do with when the movies
were made, and not the period represented. (Not that Braveheart had much to
do with its period).  Look at some of the great heros of Elizabethan England
however.  The expoits of Francis Drake, Phillippe Sidney, Roger Williams,
John Norris.  The battles in South America, Ireland, and Holland.  All of
these a bigger than life characters engaged in very heroic and often hard to
believe adventures, and all crude, the period was crude. Much of the humour
was low and scatalogical.  These men were soldiers (well all but one).  All
four of the men I just mentioned had far more Huevos than any of these
gutless wonders afraid to wear hose, and that is exactly the dress of all
four of these men.

R Carnegie
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of otsisto
> Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2004 11:59 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] Braveheart vs. Errol Flynn
>
>
> But in Braveheart the men could be crude, show their arse to the enemy all
> that rip roarin' fighters stuff. Errol Flynn on the other hand
> shows a golly
> ol" good time. Not really blood an guts.
>
> Though many of the Errol Flynn and the like type movies did
> inspired many a
> young woman to want to wear the fairytale dresses though they were not
> necessarily period.
>
> De
> -----Original Message-----
>
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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>Just a side comment --
>
>Historically accurate men -don't- wear tights :)   They wear hose, hosen, 
>or stockings  "Tights" are a 19th century invention.

OK, so tights are only sexy in the 19th century - I do lots of different 
centuries...


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Manly men don't wear tights  (was: Off Kilter) 
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>I work in the 18th century.  Clothing in that period often are assumed in to
>mean much the same as the above letters.  Well actually mostly A again.  In
>fact it is a common stereotype in Popular culture. Hose, knee breeches,
>lace, floral embroidery, pastel colors, wigs all conspire with modern
>judgments that have nothing to do with the period.

Gay men are often sexy in ways hetero women can relate to, but they're 
still sexy.  Just because I'm not on their diet doesn't mean I can't read 
the menu.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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>But in Braveheart the men could be crude, show their arse to the enemy all
>that rip roarin' fighters stuff. Errol Flynn on the other hand shows a golly
>ol" good time. Not really blood an guts.
>
>Though many of the Errol Flynn and the like type movies did inspired many a
>young woman to want to wear the fairytale dresses though they were not
>necessarily period.

I think we were talking abut sexy historical costumes.  When Errol Flynn 
was acting in those films, he was sexy-looking for the period, and a lot of 
what he wore is still sexy today.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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From: "Ron Carnegie" <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Braveheart vs. Errol Flynn
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 06:36:05 -0500
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   What a was suggesting perhaps to obliquely, is that these Elizabethans
would be fine characters or provide excellent stories for a modern, crude,
action packed film that could change these perceptions.  No the majority of
the names I mentioned have no meaning to current popular culture at all.

R. Carnegie

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of otsisto
> Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2004 12:57 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Braveheart vs. Errol Flynn
>
>
> I agree with you. It is the portrayal in the movies that "inspire" the men
> to wear an article of clothing, not the period. (From what I
> understand from
> my history buff husband, Braveheart took quite a few liberties with
> historical accuracies.) So far, (to my knowledge) no one have
> made an action
> packed movie about Drake, Sidney, Williams, or Norris.
> Napoleonic living history buffs increased their numbers with the
> BBC Horatio
> Hornblower series and Sharpie's men.
> Something that grips the man and says that is a man I want to be
> (or pretend
> to be)
> De
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Ron Carnegie
> Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2004 11:19 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Braveheart vs. Errol Flynn
>
>
>
>
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Ron Carnegie" <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Manly men don't wear tights  (was: Off Kilter)
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 07:00:39 -0500
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    This comment sure surprised me.  I always felt the codpiece were over
worn.  What I mean is applied to garments that as far as the art and extant
garments suggest  should never have had one in the first place.  Of course
part of that comes from the Bigglestone/Schultz book (er... who are they now
I think its Savoy/Winter now.  The most obvious example of this would be
Elizabethan breeches or Venetians.  By the Elizabethan period, as far as I
can tell, codpieces only are found on trunk hose like what is commonly
referred to today as "pumpkin slops" and their variations such as the german
pluderhosen.  Actually now that I think about it I seem to recall that they
do survive longer and appear in other forms in Germanic clothing as well.  I
may be mistaken on this. So much of the famous german stuff is Landsknecht
and really predates Elizabethan.

	You know this discussion reminded me of an outfit I made to play Romeo in
several years ago.  It was a 15th century Burgundian based costume.  This is
not a period that I have studied a lot, so my terms for the garments will
probably be wrong.  (I knew what they were called then, but I have
forgotten).  It was basically a short doublet made out of a silk jacquard I
had around, with a v-necked velvet jerkin.  These garments were skirted and
either just covered my but, or half of it I can't remember which.  I wore
this with tights.  As Marc mentioned it should have been hose, but this was
a theatrical costume that was thrown together quickly and cheaply out of
what I already had around the house.  Outfit was only worn by me once (I
sold it).  When I put it on for the performance (the time it was worn) the
actress playing the nurse saw me and quite startledly exclaimed, "How Butch"
quite seriously.  That always stayed with me.  One because it was one of the
first times I was referred to as butch, and two I sure didn't expect it
wearing that outfit!  Frankly it looked like a ballet costume to me, but
then my mom used to check out the buts on the male baleet dancers so whose
to say.

Cheers,
Ron
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Audrey Bergeron-Morin
> Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2004 11:37 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Manly men don't wear tights (was: Off Kilter)
>
>
> > Many men don't consider late period noblemen outfits to be manly, nor do
> > they consider the outfits to be "babe" magnets. This type of thinking is
> > usually found more among the younger men then the older more secure men.
>
> I think some men just still don't understand what women find attractive...
> Nice clothes are always good, especially if they show off your
> butt. Daring
> is good too, if you're willing to wear "obvious" clothing, meaning it's
> involved enough that you know everyone's going to look at it, then women
> like that too. And many men just refuse to wear the codpiece... :-(
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Braveheart vs. Errol Flynn
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In a message dated 3/6/2004 11:27:59 PM Central Standard Time, 
r.carnegie@verizon.net writes:
All
four of the men I just mentioned had far more Huevos than any of these
gutless wonders afraid to wear hose, and that is exactly the dress of all
four of these men.



Yes, but at the time, every other man walking around was wearing the same 
thing and there had not yet been spoof films made intimating that they might be a 
little light in the loafers for doing so.

I don't think it's *just* a matter of gutlessness, I think to a certain 
extent it's about comfort as well.  I've personally never worn a pair of slops and 
some knitted stockings, but you'd have to shanghai me to get me to do so to an 
outdoor faire in 90 degree heat.  The huge advantage to wearing an admittedly 
un-period hoop skirt under my skirts (rather than layers and layers of 
petticoats) is that it provides central air conditioning.  If I were a guy, I'd 
probably view kilts the same way.

-Tiff
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From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Manly men don't wear tights (was: Off Kilter)
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*giggles madly* I am in the planning stages of reproducing the Sture garments. The codpieces are for all intents and purposes big floofy bows of fabric.... the guy I am making it for has enough of a demented sense of humour to appreciate the notion of having a squeeky toy buried in the bows of the codpiece... 
I'm still giggling over the idea!!! Thanks!
 
Kathy


I just can't understand why they won't wear the cute red heart codpiece with
the squeaker in it. :)

De
Need to stop now. Too many codpiece designs are starting to run through my
head.


---------------------------------
Post your free ad now! Yahoo! Canada Personals
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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Manly men don't wear tights (was: Off Kilter)
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You have reminded me of my 'to do' list.  I have a fellow who wants me to
make him a pair of 'pants' with a cod piece  which has one of these puppets
on the end whose head is manipulated by a cable.  They are pretty cool.  I
have actually seen patrons who can be convinced they are real (griffens,
dragons etc)!  Just when you think you have seen it all!

Sg

> I'm still giggling over the idea!!! Thanks!
> 
> Kathy
> 
> 
> I just can't understand why they won't wear the cute red heart codpiece
with
> the squeaker in it. :)

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Manly men don't wear tights  (was: Off Kilter)
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A friend of our designed one which was a "bird in a gilden cage," as he
put it.

Arlys

On Sat, 6 Mar 2004 23:29:14 -0600 "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net> writes:
> I just can't understand why they won't wear the cute red heart 
> codpiece with
> the squeaker in it. :)
> 
> De
> Need to stop now. Too many codpiece designs are starting to run 
> through my
> head.


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A lot of women enjoy a shapely leg and butt in a man. Henry VIII was very
well known for his, and he was proud of them. How period can you get?

Arlys, definately a leg lady


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> De wrote:
> Need to stop now. Too many codpiece designs are starting to run through my
> head.


Forget squeaky toys- I have always wanted to make a codpiece that has
mechanized fish-tail sticking out the side, possibly even with a motion
sensor or a small button remote so it can flap upon close inspection or in
response to the "what have you got in there" question...  (Answer:  My cod,
of course...)
            -Helen/Aidan (who is frequently guilty of over-engineering)


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How about one done in stumpwork? a big, green pea pod with smaller, 
fuzzy fabric peas inside comes to mind....
--sue, in a really evil frame of mind....;o)

Helen Pinto wrote:

>>De wrote:
>>Need to stop now. Too many codpiece designs are starting to run through my
>>head.
> 
> 
> 
> Forget squeaky toys- I have always wanted to make a codpiece that has
> mechanized fish-tail sticking out the side, possibly even with a motion
> sensor or a small button remote so it can flap upon close inspection or in
> response to the "what have you got in there" question...  (Answer:  My cod,
> of course...)
>             -Helen/Aidan (who is frequently guilty of over-engineering)
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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Sue Clemenger wrote:
> How about one done in stumpwork? a big, green pea pod with smaller, 
> fuzzy fabric peas inside comes to mind....
> --sue, in a really evil frame of mind....;o)

A design of wild oats....

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

Oh, and while we're at it, God also really hates shrimp. Maybe you 
didn't know. Shrimp are evil, as are all shrimp eaters. Clams, too. Hey, 
it's in the Bible. You can look it up.  -- Mark Morford
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From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Manly men don't wear tights
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Ooooh....in gold embroidery! <weg>
--sue

Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> Sue Clemenger wrote:
> 
>> How about one done in stumpwork? a big, green pea pod with smaller, 
>> fuzzy fabric peas inside comes to mind....
>> --sue, in a really evil frame of mind....;o)
> 
> 
> A design of wild oats....
> 

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Garb Snarks or Snacks
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 12:33:05 -0500
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On Sunday 07 March 2004 12:14 am, Susan Carroll-Clark wrote:
> Greetings--
>
> > In a message dated 3/6/2004 4:08:41 PM Central Standard Time,
> > otsisto@socket.net writes:
> > I don't think you can smell silk 5 feet away unless your downwind from
> > the person and you know what sweated in silk smells like. :P
>
> I sure can, particularly if it's silk noile, no sweat required, and
> probably from 10 feet.  I remember freaking out some friends while we were
> in Target and wandering into the clothing department by suddenly sniffing
> the air and saying "I smell silk!"  They thought I was nuts, but I was
> right....

Noil *does* tend to stink to high heaven, but I haven't noticed any smell in 
other forms of silk.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Anything's within walking distance if you have the time." -Steven Wright
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> 	It was so wonderful when it turned from the negativity of Snark to Snack

At the Tate gallery (I think) in London, I saw a keen renaissance art 
form which really should be revived -- portraits of people done in 
colored beeswax, like super-fine fimo or something; built up on a flesh 
colored base, faces finely modelled, then the clothing put on in 
different colors, pearls, etc.  They were maybe 3" high overall, low 
relief on a plaque.

Not only would this be a neat A&S project, but you could also do them of 
marzipan -- Garb Snacks as discussed!

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

Oh, and while we're at it, God also really hates shrimp. Maybe you 
didn't know. Shrimp are evil, as are all shrimp eaters. Clams, too. Hey, 
it's in the Bible. You can look it up.  -- Mark Morford
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From: "A.Thurman" <athurman@cybergal.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: manly men in tights
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I know I'm coming in late to this thread, but I had to say:

I think it's a damnable pity how few guys take the chance to wear period
garb. While a guy with nice legs is quite appealing in a kilt, it would be
nice to see some variety.

I find it helps if you give a guy a weapon - even the most squeamish will
dress in full Cavalier kit with lace and floppy hat if they're allowed to
carry a sword ;)

Also remind them "chicks dig it"!

Allison T.

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A.Thurman wrote:

> 
> Also remind them "chicks dig it"!

After talking to some of my male friends I think the main issue is that 
they find it uncomfortable. Not necessarily that the clothing fits 
badly, but that the style is so different, the short pants, the foofy 
sleeves, or the skirts and hose, and out of respect for the costumer's 
work they are afraid of ruining it. And they don't like fiddling with 
layers, especially in later period clothing. My husband absolutely HATES 
period closures. I'm making stuff with hidden snaps now because he will 
not do ties.

The guys I know are not so much afraid of what people think about them 
in costume, or unable to get good costumes, they'd just much rather be 
outdoors in jeans.

Secondarily, most of the single guys I know want chicks to dig them for 
who they are everyday, not because they dressed up in a costume.




Dawn


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Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2004 21:25:59 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Carmelite Habit
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There was a recent Time Team (current series) where they were excavating 
a Gilbertine double house, and they found a burial with pins, or maybe 
just the marks of where pins had been, around the skull.  They were able 
to contact an existing convent of the same order, where the nuns still 
wear the same veil and could show them exactly where those pins fitted 
in!

Jean


Linda Walton <linda.walton@dsl.pipex.com> wrote
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Friday, March 05, 2004 3:36 AM
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: being mistaken for a num
>
>
>>
>> A number of years ago I encountered a Carmelite nun in a craft store.  I
>> think they were the last to wear long Medieval-ish habits.  I asked her
>> about the outfit, and got lucky in having asked a nun who knew about the
>> history of what she was wearing and who would answer a question or two
>> about it.  This must have been 30 years ago, and I don't know if
>Carmelites
>> still wear long habits.
>>
>
>Two of my friends are Carmelite nuns, so I can tell you that their habit was
>modernised following the order by the Second Vatican Council to all
>religious orders to consider how they could renew themselves in modern
>times.  The Council began in 1962, but it took years for them to work
>through all the work, and then the various religious orders took some time
>to consider how to completely rewrite their constitutions without losing
>their original spirit, so the change in dress didn't work through to the
>ordinary nun until maybe the beginning of the 1970s.
>
>They still wear clothes which look superficially like the old habit in
>length, colour and style, but now they are made from what look to me like
>man-made fibres.  Also, they wear modern underwear and sandals.  They are
>still committed to poverty, so make and mend as much as they can, and are
>always grateful for Christmas presents of things like a warm vest or packets
>of pop-socks.  (Pop-socks - is this an English term? - they look like nylon
>stockings but only reach to somewhere between ankle and knee.)
>
>If anyone is really interested, I could write to ask for more information.
>There are still nuns alive who can tell you all about the details of their
>old clothing and how it was worn, which was often preserved in every detail
>from the day their order was founded.  That includes everything from woollen
>hose and early Medieval underwear to pinned-on sleeves and complicated
>head-dresses.  It seems to me that these nuns are a great resource for
>anyone who wants to research the costume of the particular time and place of
>the founders - but a resource which will soon be lost forever.
>
>Linda Walton,
>(in High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.).
>
>_______________________________________________
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Mar  7 14:41:02 2004
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Subject: [h-cost] Real Men and Tights
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There is a fairly large renfaire in my area and we are lucky to have 2
costume merchants who both make very good tights, complete with 'real'
(ie; working) codpieces.  The current Entertainment Director for the
faire insists on most of the male members of the scenario cast (royal
court with a plot) wear doublets and tights, no pants.  Fortunately most
of these roles involve swordfighting and so had a macho appeal.  The
admiration most of these guys received later in their tights sealed the
deal :).  

And it was a good thing the tights had codpieces to preserve some period
elements since the ED would not allow 'real' codpieces on those
characters that were allowed to wear pants or Tudor skirted doublets.  I
knew I had been working with these costumes too long when I started to
think of King Henry VIII as looking normal without a codpiece!!!

Faire had a 'Mr. Romance' competition  last year that all the men in the
court are required to participate in.  During part of the competition
they have to pose in just their tights :).  I guess it was pretty
popular as it will be back this year.

Catherine
who occasionally works at T'gers and gets to help fit tights on mundanes
:) :) :) :).

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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 10:51:26 -0700
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Subject: [h-cost] FW: Replica Dress hooks available...
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Hi guys, since our list doesn't support posting pictures and my website will
be down for (a long) time, I thought I would let you know that there are
pictures posted to the yahoo groups below.  I know many of you are on
several.  If you can't view them for some reason there ,and are still
interested, please contact me off list and I will send you the photos. 

 

Sg

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Saragrace T. Knauf [mailto:saragrace@earthlink.net] 
Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2004 10:35 AM
To: 'TheTailor@renaissancetailor.com'; 'thefrazzledfrau@yahoogroups.com';
'GermanRenCostume@yahoogroups.com'
Subject: Replica Dress hooks available...

 

Hi guys, sorry for any cross posting.   I have had many inquiries regarding
this, so I thought I would share with you and hope that this isn't taken as
a blatant promotion.  

 

I had a replica of an actual dress hook made for the folks in my Flemish
class by a very nice and very talented fellow in Germany.  His website is
here:  http://www.hr-replikate.de/  They may not actually be up on the
website, but they look like they will cost about 5.5 Euros plus shipping.  

 

I have included a picture of the original (it is the dress hook on the
right) and the replica itself.  He does very nice work and is a super nice
fellow.  His English is excellent but he is happy to converse with you in
his native language if you so desire.  

 

Sg

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Subject: [h-cost] Silk Smells, was RE: Garb Snarks or Snacks
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> I sure can, particularly if it's silk noile, no sweat required, and 
> probably
> from 10 feet.  I remember freaking out some friends while we were in 
> Target
> and wandering into the clothing department by suddenly sniffing the 
> air and
> saying "I smell silk!"  They thought I was nuts, but I was right....

I can tell the smell of silk noile and duipioni (very distinctive) from 
quite a distance as well.  Silk satin doesn't seem to have that much of 
a smell, though.

Sarah
http://www.modehistorique.com

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From: "Diane Maynard" <Camelothorse@earthlink.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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	<4.3.1.2.20040306220150.05f87eb0@mail.frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Braveheart vs. Errol Flynn
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 14:44:19 -0600
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Delurking for this------Errol Flynn----On the other hand, I would delurk or
WHATEVER for Errol Flynn.   Let's face it,  This is a man that looked SEXY
in whatever he wore ( or better yet didn't wear !)   Errol Flynn, Clark
Gable, Sean Connery, a few others-----Put them in ANYTHING and I would still
drool.    When someone knows who and what they are, they can carry off
wearing any period of clothing and look great.  Henry the 8 th would have
been an imposing man in today's clothing.   Designer suit of silk, custom
fitted, loads of money, and his bearing would get him ANY wife he wanted.
He just would not have had as much trouble getting his divorces and no
doubt, with his wealth, would have had a great attorney drawing up his
pre-nuptial agreements.  Let's face it, even Prince Charles and Princess
Diana were able to get a divorce without someone being beheaded or locked in
the tower in this generation.

Diane


----- Original Message -----
From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2004 12:03 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Braveheart vs. Errol Flynn


>
> >But in Braveheart the men could be crude, show their arse to the enemy
all
> >that rip roarin' fighters stuff. Errol Flynn on the other hand shows a
golly
> >ol" good time. Not really blood an guts.
> >
> >Though many of the Errol Flynn and the like type movies did inspired many
a
> >young woman to want to wear the fairytale dresses though they were not
> >necessarily period.
>
> I think we were talking abut sexy historical costumes.  When Errol Flynn
> was acting in those films, he was sexy-looking for the period, and a lot
of
> what he wore is still sexy today.
>
>
>         CarolynKayta Barrows
> dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
>           www.FunStuft.com
>
>               //// \\\
>              ////-@@\\\
>             ((((   7 )))
>              (((  <> ))))
>                 )   ((((((
>            /----\   /---\))
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Ron Carnegie" <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Braveheart vs. Errol Flynn
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>
> Yes, but at the time, every other man walking around was wearing the same
> thing and there had not yet been spoof films made intimating that
> they might be a
> little light in the loafers for doing so.
>

 That's what I meant by "gutless".  I mean the same way as "secure in
masculinity" is used.  These men are "scared" that some one will think them
"light in the loafers" because of what they wear?  Gutless!

> I don't think it's *just* a matter of gutlessness, I think to a certain
> extent it's about comfort as well.  I've personally never worn a
> pair of slops and
> some knitted stockings, but you'd have to shanghai me to get me
> to do so to an
> outdoor faire in 90 degree heat.  The huge advantage to wearing
> an admittedly
> un-period hoop skirt under my skirts (rather than layers and layers of
> petticoats) is that it provides central air conditioning.  If I
> were a guy, I'd
> probably view kilts the same way.
>
> -Tiff

  It is really not so difficult. (Though I agree that many assume it is)
Several men in fact are doing this very thing. (or at least were when I was)
When I was in St George's for the faires in California that sort of weather
was not unusual and most of the men of the guild wore what you describe.
Some of the gentry and most of the servants did not.   Most cheated on the
hose wearing tights instead.  That was for ease of purchase rather than
comfort however.  Frankly what I wear every July for work is far warmer and
the heat index here thanks to the humidity is usually worse than Devore ever
was. (and Devore was worse than Agoura).  The uniform I have to wear in July
consists of wool broadcloth small clothes (in the period that means
waistcoat and breeches, I only mention that because apparently to some
smallclothes are underwear).  At least the small clothes are white.  A red
double breasted regimental coat in broadcloth, a wig mad of yak hair.
Leather gloves (they should be kid but they are not Military cocked hat
(blocked from a caster blank, I believe in this case rabbit.  A small sword
(but that doesn't really effect the heat) cotton knit stockings (should
probably be wool or silk, but cotton is not impossible) and riding boots.
The whole time I get the pleasure of having all sorts of verbal abuse sent
my way (though that part is can be fun though).

	There is no need for tights by the Elizabethan period anyway (or full hosen
either). (Our Faire was based in that period, although referred to as
Renaissance).  You only need hose tall enough to reach high enough into your
trunk hose, canions, or whatever.  By that period there is usually another
garment covering the ...uh...er.. lap area.  'fraid that hides part of what
you women hoped to see however! ;).  Frankly when I still wore tights
something in that area was where most of my discomfort arose from!  It also
allows you to use better materials.  Men's tights are usually horrible
manmade materials which do not breath. (Limited colors as well).

   Great kilts (even proper wool ones ;) ) can be cooler temperature wise.
At least they are when the drape is left down (my favorite look as well) and
when you move them back and forth to create a breeze.   Left to their own
devices, hanging alongside your leg, they are not really very cool.   They
are in fact meant to provide the humbly with warmth!  Of course that is less
true of the cheaper flannel variety, and many today wear them with no upper
body garment which is certainly cooler!  Frankly I believe they were
considered more manly even before Brave heart.  Amongst faire and the SCA
kilts have long seemed to have been admired as manly, though less so in
normal society.  I do Scottish Country Dance and spend a bit of time in
modern kilts (and often wear jacobite stuff to highland games (err real
Jacobite stuff rather than the strange waistcoats and polyester thong tied
shirts sold as jacobite.  I was just starting to reenact the period when I
moved out here.

R. Carnegie

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Mar  7 17:36:25 2004
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Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 22:23:31 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Carmelite Habit
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Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> wrote
>At 5:57 AM +0000 3/5/04, Linda Walton wrote:
>>If anyone is really interested, I could write to ask for more information.
>>There are still nuns alive who can tell you all about the details of their
>>old clothing and how it was worn, which was often preserved in every detail
>>from the day their order was founded.  That includes everything from woollen
>>hose and early Medieval underwear to pinned-on sleeves and complicated
>>head-dresses.  It seems to me that these nuns are a great resource for
>>anyone who wants to research the costume of the particular time and place of
>>the founders - but a resource which will soon be lost forever.
>
>I'd encourage some caution, though. It's good that you've found some 
>nuns who are genuinely well educated about the subject, but few monks 
>or nuns are costume experts. The idea that religious clothing is 
>_completely_ unchanged from the date of the Order's founding is 
>commonly believed, especially by members of a group who were told this 
>in their novitiate years, but it's not necessarily true, and deserves 
>to be tested against other contemporary evidence like any other 
>hypothesis. For instance, there are surviving 13th-century habits that 
>belonged to St. Francis of Assisi and St. Antony of Padua, and a mantle 
>that belonged to St. Clare, which can yield a good deal of information 
>about the original clothing of the Franciscan Orders at least.
>
>It's interesting that Orders with origins in the 16th century and 
>earlier (like the Carmelites) tend to have relatively simple clothing. 
>The Poor Clares and some Benedictines also are still wearing 
>essentially T-tunics, wimples, and unstarched veils. In my experience, 
>the elaborate headdresses that many groups of nuns wore before Vatican 
>II tend to belong to the multitudes of teaching and nursing orders that 
>were founded in the 18th and 19th centuries, derived from the elaborate 
>"peasant" costumes worn by many ethnic communities in Europe at the time.
>
>I know there are a few people around who are studying monastic 
>clothing, but it's an area where not a lot of solid research has been 
>done, or at least where it's not yet made its way into common discussion.

On the other hand, religious Orders are the kind of place where old 
records are kept forever.  Certainly some convent/museums I have visited 
have either the written description of what the members are to wear, or 
actual models of the clothing so that future generations would not 
wander from teh original intention, and pictures of former Superiors, so 
you can find out whether the current habit is the same as the original.

Jean
-- 
Jean Waddie
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Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 22:59:34 +0000
Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE: Manly men don't wear tights  (was: Off Kilter)
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> The killer is when they've figured out that late period is both manly 
> and a babe magnet, and accessorise said tights/hose/etc with a pair of 
> thigh high boots.... Fell for one of them once, with disastrous 
> results, when all I really wanted was his boots. I got my own pair, 
> went Bobbing, and was much better off. Still, if Errol Flynn ever 
> stopped by...sigh...



>> Many men don't consider late period noblemen outfits to be manly, nor 
>> do
>> they consider the outfits to be "babe" magnets. This type of thinking 
>> is
>> usually found more among the younger men then the older more secure 
>> men.
>
> I think some men just still don't understand what women find 
> attractive...
> Nice clothes are always good, especially if they show off your butt. 
> Daring
> is good too,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Manly men don't wear tights (was: Off Kilter)
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>*giggles madly* I am in the planning stages of reproducing the Sture 
>garments. The codpieces are for all intents and purposes big floofy bows 
>of fabric.... the guy I am making it for has enough of a demented sense of 
>humour to appreciate the notion of having a squeeky toy buried in the bows 
>of the codpiece...
>I'm still giggling over the idea!!! Thanks!
>
>Kathy
>
>
>I just can't understand why they won't wear the cute red heart codpiece with
>the squeaker in it. :)

The Landsknecht codpiece is actually hollow under all those floofy bows, as 
Janet Arnold will tell you.  But there's plenty of room for a squeaky toy 
inside, as I found out perhaps 20 years ago.  I was wearing my 
cross-dressing Landsknecht outfit, and some wench came wriggling up to the 
gent in question and gave what she knew was there a squeeze.  I almost lost 
my glued-on moustache I laughed so hard.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
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Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 18:34:51 EST
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Smells, was RE: Garb Snarks or Snacks
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In a message dated 3/7/2004 3:26:20 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
sarah@modehistorique.com writes:
I can tell the smell of silk noile and duipioni (very distinctive) from 
quite a distance as well.  Silk satin doesn't seem to have that much of 
a smell, though.
I think that is because what you are smelling is the gum that holds the 
threads together, and more of it is removed for the finer silks than the rougher 
ones.
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Turkey Red fabrics
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In a message dated 3/6/2004 10:37:38 PM Eastern Standard Time, kayta@frys.com 
writes:
These were exactly what I was looking for, so of course they're likely 'out 
of print'.  OTOH, I may just block print my own - some of the really simple 
original stuff I've seen is no better than I could do.  And it's just for 
lining so it doesn't have to be perfect.
It is frustrating to find good prints that are appropriate for the early 19th 
century.  I'll look and look and one will be okay, except for the shaded 
background, and one has one really off color in the print, and so it goes.

I did find the one below at the store where I bought my sewing machine.  They 
carry the yellow with red and green with black.  I think the red with black 
could be okay, too, and maybe the black ground one.  I haven't seen any other 
of the Michael Miller prints that seem appropriate, but I haven't been through 
them all.

http://www.michaelmillerfabrics.com/collections/search_results.asp?page=1&Grou
p_Name=Sprigs

If one is doing a slightly later interpretation, Old Sturbridge Village came 
out with a line a few years ago--these would be circa 1830s and I'm not sure 
if they are still available, either.

Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: manly men in tights
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Yeah, but that's true as well for the single women I know, and we still 
seem to be pressured into dressing up more (makeup, hairstyles, 
restrictive shoe styles, etc.) to be thought attractive to *men.*  (I'm 
equating some types of modern women's clothing with "costume" in this case.)
I personally like to -uhm- watch guys who are comfortable with what 
they're wearing, whether that's something more formal and restrictive 
(Bjarne looks awfully good in his suits), or something less 
fragile--some men I know look awfully nice in a well-fitted tunic and 
trews!  Or Cavalier, with all the lace.  Or a nice cotehardie and hose.
Or a nice pair of levi's.  (yummmm! cowboys and chaps! ;o)
--sue, going away before she starts drooling on the keyboard....

Dawn wrote:


> The guys I know are not so much afraid of what people think about them 
> in costume, or unable to get good costumes, they'd just much rather be 
> outdoors in jeans.
> 
> Secondarily, most of the single guys I know want chicks to dig them for 
> who they are everyday, not because they dressed up in a costume.


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: codpiece fun
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I just can't understand why they won't wear the cute red heart codpiece with
 >the squeaker in it. :)
---------------------
One of the fops at MiRF two years ago had a vibrating codpiece, with a 
little string hanging out that you can pull to make it go "buzz".  Last 
year, he did a design of filigree brass pieces on his now codpiece, so 
he had a "heart-on".  (say it out loud).

Another had his sculpted like a little peacoock's head, somplete with 
beak and feathers.

The third was feeling left out, so one day he tied one of Her Majesty's 
extra sleeves to the front of his pants.

And then there is the rogue who keeps his pocket-watch in there....

Wendy Z
Missing MiRF already


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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Nun's Habits
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At 8:29 AM -0600 3/6/04, Pierre & Sandy Pettinger wrote:
>The only book I have found on the subject is "The Habit: A History 
>of the Clothing of Catholic Nuns" by Elizabeth Kuhns, published by 
>Doubleday. There are a couple of paper doll books available; but 
>they are only pictures with minimal information.

There hasn't been as much research done on monastic clothing 
(especially women's) as I would like to see, and I'm not really in a 
position to be able to do much with primary sources myself. I do know 
a couple of people who are working in this area, one of whom (Susan 
Carroll-Clark) I know is on this list.

The other people I know of are Thomas Izbicki at Johns Hopkins 
University (though I don't know what he's published), Desiree Koslin, 
and Cordelia Warr. Both of the latter have written PhD dissertations 
and various articles on the subject. Here's what I've been able to 
find:

Desiree Koslin's PhD dissertation was on _The Dress of Monastic & 
Religious Women as seen in Art from the Early Middle Ages to the 
Reformation_. I was able to get a copy of this through UMI 
Dissertation Services (it's UMI #9917057), who have this and many 
other theses and dissertations on microfilm, and will print and send 
a paper copy for (I think it was) something like $35. They are at 
http://www.bellhowell.infolearning.com/hp/Products/Dissertations.html

It's basically a photocopy of a microfilm, so many of the 
illustrations are black smears, but she gives the sources, so a 
dedicated person could probably track down many of them.

I've also been told (haven't looked it up yet) that Cordelia Warr 
wrote a very interesting art history Phd for Warwick University in 
which she looked at Clarissan habits in detail: Female Patronage and 
Female Spirituality in Italian Art (1994). That one doesn't seem to 
be at UMI. There's a profile of her at 
http://www.art.man.ac.uk/ARTHIST/profiles/warr.html  and an article 
of hers, "The Striped Mantle of the Poor Clares: Image and text in 
Italy in the Later Middle Ages," is in _Arte Cristiana_ 86 (1998) 
415-430.

It's a subject that doesn't seem to have made it into the 
non-academic literature yet. (Hey Susan, want to write a book?)
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Real Men and Tights/codpieces
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Speaking of which,

check the Costume Con website for the codpiece contest at CC16.  I think
there are pics.  There was even a cod with a piece(small automatic) in the
doll show. :-)

Snow fallen on snow,
      and this evening, the full moon of November
Basho


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Catherine Kinsey" <ckinsey@kumc.edu>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2004 1:39 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Real Men and Tights


> There is a fairly large renfaire in my area and we are lucky to have 2
> costume merchants who both make very good tights, complete with 'real'
> (ie; working) codpieces.  The current Entertainment Director for the
> faire insists on most of the male members of the scenario cast (royal
> court with a plot) wear doublets and tights, no pants.  Fortunately most
> of these roles involve swordfighting and so had a macho appeal.  The
> admiration most of these guys received later in their tights sealed the
> deal :).
>
> And it was a good thing the tights had codpieces to preserve some period
> elements since the ED would not allow 'real' codpieces on those
> characters that were allowed to wear pants or Tudor skirted doublets.  I
> knew I had been working with these costumes too long when I started to
> think of King Henry VIII as looking normal without a codpiece!!!
>
> Faire had a 'Mr. Romance' competition  last year that all the men in the
> court are required to participate in.  During part of the competition
> they have to pose in just their tights :).  I guess it was pretty
> popular as it will be back this year.
>
> Catherine
> who occasionally works at T'gers and gets to help fit tights on mundanes
> :) :) :) :).
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 17:28:39 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Braveheart vs. Errol Flynn
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At 4:59 PM -0500 3/7/04, Ron Carnegie wrote:
>    Great kilts (even proper wool ones ;) ) can be cooler temperature wise.
>At least they are when the drape is left down (my favorite look as well) and
>when you move them back and forth to create a breeze.   Left to their own
>devices, hanging alongside your leg, they are not really very cool.

I've always wondered about the guys who want to wear a "great kilt" 
with no shirt nor anything else on the upper part of their bodies.

What the heck do they think they're going to pin the drape to? Ouch!!!!
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@rogers.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Smells, was RE: Garb Snarks or Snacks
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Greetings--

> I can tell the smell of silk noile and duipioni (very distinctive) from
> quite a distance as well.  Silk satin doesn't seem to have that much of
> a smell, though.
> I think that is because what you are smelling is the gum that holds the
> threads together, and more of it is removed for the finer silks than the
rougher

I was told once that it was silkworm spit :-)

Susan

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>> I can tell the smell of silk noile and duipioni (very distinctive) 
>> from
>> quite a distance as well.  Silk satin doesn't seem to have that much 
>> of
>> a smell, though.
>> I think that is because what you are smelling is the gum that holds 
>> the
>> threads together, and more of it is removed for the finer silks than 
>> the
> rougher
>
> I was told once that it was silkworm spit :-)

I agree.  Of course, to be fair, there usually is a lot of sizing put 
into duipioni and shantung, but the smell is still there even after the 
fabric has been washed.

Sarah
http://www.modehistorique.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Braveheart vs. Errol Flynn
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If we're thinking the same thing, they don't pin the top portion of the
great kilt save to itself, and those who wear a skirt pin just pin it to
the outer flap of the skirt to keep it from flapping--it's a fancy
weight.

Arlys

On Sun, 7 Mar 2004 17:28:39 -0800 Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> writes:
> At 4:59 PM -0500 3/7/04, Ron Carnegie wrote:
> >    Great kilts (even proper wool ones ;) ) can be cooler 
> temperature wise.
> >At least they are when the drape is left down (my favorite look as 
> well) and
> >when you move them back and forth to create a breeze.   Left to 
> their own
> >devices, hanging alongside your leg, they are not really very cool.
> 
> I've always wondered about the guys who want to wear a "great kilt" 
> with no shirt nor anything else on the upper part of their bodies.
> 
> What the heck do they think they're going to pin the drape to? 
> Ouch!!!!
> -- 
> _________________________________________________________
> O    Chris Laning
> |     <claning@igc.org>
> +    Davis, California
> _________________________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Silk Smells, was RE: Garb Snarks or Snacks
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Oh, so thats why it slids over the body. :)
De

-----Original Message-----
I was told once that it was silkworm spit :-)

Susan
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Braveheart vs. Errol Flynn
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 22:22:38 -0600
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Oh my, just had a picture of a punk Scot. and nipple piercing.

De
-----Original Message-----

What the heck do they think they're going to pin the drape to? Ouch!!!!
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: manly men in tights
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 22:52:27 -0600
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Sorry I have to say this.. 
So the extra sword is in case the first one isn't as impressive. :P 

De
So many puns screaming to come out....must restrain self.

 

-----Original Message-----

I find it helps if you give a guy a weapon - even the most squeamish will
dress in full Cavalier kit with lace and floppy hat if they're allowed to
carry a sword ;)

Also remind them "chicks dig it"!

Allison T.

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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Manly men don't wear tights  (was: Off Kilter)
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>>> otsisto@socket.net 06/03/04 09:27:07 >>> wrote:
>I have noticed though that a man in a late period outfit is usually
>considered:
>A. Gay
>B. Married
>C. Going to be married
>.D. Momma sewed it.

When you say "late period", do you mean the later part of the period
the SCA do? (Don't forget a lot of folks on this list are not SCA
members.)_



Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] waistcoat finished
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Oh my, just cut down my waistcoat from the frame. I did it!
So i will be able to have it finished for thursday when i go to the gustavians.
Jahu................. rushing out to buy some sewing silk and buttonhole silk two..............
40 meters of silk ribbon for this waistcoat in 4 colours.
Bjarne 




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

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Even that may be changing with the advent of the
"utilikilt". This weekend I saw all sorts of men in
"Utilikilts, tee-shirts and sneakers. Black and khaki
seemed to be more popular than camo.


"Frankly I believe they were considered more manly
even before Brave heart. Amongst faire and the SCA
kilts have long seemed to have been admired as manly,
though less so in normal society. "

=====
Señora Catalina
Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit


	
	
		
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Subject: [h-cost] male costuming was Re: manly men in tights
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I spent 6 months on a 14th century outfit for my
husband. He requested it for a court outfit. He was
much happier with it once he figured out how to get in
and out of it by opening only 8 out of 62 buttons.


> 
> After talking to some of my male friends I think the
> main issue is that 
> they find it uncomfortable. Not necessarily that the
> clothing fits 
> badly, but that the style is so different, the short
> pants, the foofy 
> sleeves, or the skirts and hose, and out of respect
> for the costumer's 
> work they are afraid of ruining it. And they don't
> like fiddling with 
> layers, especially in later period clothing. My
> husband absolutely HATES 
> period closures. I'm making stuff with hidden snaps
> now because he will 
> not do ties.
> 


=====
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Catalina=20Saravia=20Quicedo?= <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] waistcoat finished
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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It sounds so wonderful. We need pics of the event.


 --- Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
wrote: > Oh my, just cut down my waistcoat from the
frame. I
> did it!
> So i will be able to have it finished for thursday
> when i go to the gustavians.
> Jahu................. rushing out to buy some sewing
> silk and buttonhole silk two..............
> 40 meters of silk ribbon for this waistcoat in 4
> colours.
> Bjarne 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

=====
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Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 11:15:24 EST
Subject: Re: [h-cost] KILTS
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Status: RO

Speaking of kilts....

I'm getting ready to make one for a friend. Although I'm going to follow the 
proper procedure and make a "real" kilt....construction-wise....the wool is 
not really a tartan. It's an even plaid [looks good though....grey and 
brown-orange on black....the client chose it.]

Anyway....the guy I'm making it for wants to be butch [Good luck! Did I say 
that???] and hates the socks. I told him he'd have to wear them. But then I 
started thinking....

What about boots...like riding boots. But would one wear a kilt riding? Do 
you have to ride side saddle in a kilt? "Shouldn't be riding astride with his 
kilt all flying up. "Tain't fittin' Jess t'ain't fittin'"
OK...I'm kidding. But can one don boots with their kilt?

I also thought gaiters. Not short white ones but more like military ones from 
the 18th or early 19th century [in a brown or natural duck] that come to or 
above the knee. The socks would be underneath them I assume...and could roll 
down over the top of knee high gaiters. But with lots of pewter buttons could 
look more butch than just socks.

Are we straying too far from the correct path? He's not to look formal in any 
way. We've got a plain leather sporran and he's just wearing an early 19th 
century linen shirt. The guy's a big hairy bear and in truth would look butch in 
a tutu....but we aim to please the clientele.

What about a hat? Is there anything broad brimmed that would work and, again, 
not be too off the mark?

The idea is he's the hairy romance-novel-cover Pict of your dreams emerging 
from the forest to ravage you.....
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Mar  8 11:58:26 2004
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In a message dated 3/8/2004 10:16:21 AM Central Standard Time, 
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:
Are we straying too far from the correct path? He's not to look formal in any 
way. 


My suggestion would be to see if he'll go with something like this:

http://www.medievalmoccasins.com/cgi-bin/store/perlshop.cgi?ACTION=thispage&th
ispage=TB.html&ORDER_ID=122873624

If the link doesn't work, it's Medieval Moccasins' tall boot style.  They 
look great with kilts, without going so far as actual high boots - a lot of 
"Scots" have found them a good middle ground between "butch" and "goofy".  

They ain't cheap but I have a pair of med mocs that I've been wearing to 
faire for 4 straight years now, and they're still in phenominal shape.  These 
people are the absolute nicest in the world, and their quality and customer 
service can't be beat.

-Tiff
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Aside from skipped stitches or pulled fabric threads while stitching, is 
there a generally-accepted way to tell if you need to change the needle 
on your sewing machine?

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

 From LoTR, the movie EE:
Legolas: Lembas! One bite will fill a man's stomach!
Pippin, to Merry: How many did *you* eat?
Merry, whimpering: ... four... (belch)
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Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> Aside from skipped stitches or pulled fabric threads while stitching, is 
> there a generally-accepted way to tell if you need to change the needle 
> on your sewing machine?
> 

I change needles if I am using particularly heavy or delicate fabrics. I 
don't want to wait for pulls in sheer fabric to tell me the needle needs 
changing, and it is easier to get through heavy fabric with a fresh needle.

I change needles for a new costume project. I finished a wool overgown 
for my husband last month, and it was a lot of sewing, so I will put a 
fresh needle in before I start the next big project. I'll also clean out 
the bobbin track. If I was quilting I would change the needle before 
starting a new quilt top. Needles are cheap.



Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Manly men don't wear tights (was: Off Kilter)
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Very cute, Aidan:)
I also saw a fellow a  VERY long time ago --come to an SCA Court Event--at which he made a presentation to the King and Queen  --dressed in this splendid outfit --with a modest codpiece.However, as he made his presentation to the new Monarchs ---they exploded into laughter --and he eventually turned around for the the rest of the audience to see--a series of little  blinking lights all leading straight to an arrow pointing to the tip of his codpiece:) 
Albra

Helen Pinto <hpinto@mindspring.com> wrote:
> De wrote:
> Need to stop now. Too many codpiece designs are starting to run through my
> head.


Forget squeaky toys- I have always wanted to make a codpiece that has
mechanized fish-tail sticking out the side, possibly even with a motion
sensor or a small button remote so it can flap upon close inspection or in
response to the "what have you got in there" question... (Answer: My cod,
of course...)
-Helen/Aidan (who is frequently guilty of over-engineering)


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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Catalina=20Saravia=20Quicedo?= <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] KILTS
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Medieval Moccasins tall boot style. Since its loosely
based on the ghillie style bog shoe, its the most
likely candidate to be worn with a kilt. They did wear
"loincloths", for lack of a better word, under their
kilts when there was need. No same man would want his
huevos hanging loose and getting scrambled on a
horse's back.
You can do a google for "celtic bog shoe" and come up
with several references.

Catalina.

 --- AlbertCat@aol.com wrote: > Speaking of kilts....
> 
> I'm getting ready to make one for a friend. Although
> I'm going to follow the 
> proper procedure and make a "real"
> kilt....construction-wise....the wool is 
> not really a tartan. It's an even plaid [looks good
> though....grey and 
> brown-orange on black....the client chose it.]
> 
> Anyway....the guy I'm making it for wants to be
> butch [Good luck! Did I say 
> that???] and hates the socks. I told him he'd have
> to wear them. But then I 
> started thinking....
> 
> What about boots...like riding boots. But would one
> wear a kilt riding? Do 
> you have to ride side saddle in a kilt? "Shouldn't
> be riding astride with his 
> kilt all flying up. "Tain't fittin' Jess t'ain't
> fittin'"
> OK...I'm kidding. But can one don boots with their
> kilt?
> 
> I also thought gaiters. Not short white ones but
> more like military ones from 
> the 18th or early 19th century [in a brown or
> natural duck] that come to or 
> above the knee. The socks would be underneath them I
> assume...and could roll 
> down over the top of knee high gaiters. But with
> lots of pewter buttons could 
> look more butch than just socks.
> 
> Are we straying too far from the correct path? He's
> not to look formal in any 
> way. We've got a plain leather sporran and he's just
> wearing an early 19th 
> century linen shirt. The guy's a big hairy bear and
> in truth would look butch in 
> a tutu....but we aim to please the clientele.
> 
> What about a hat? Is there anything broad brimmed
> that would work and, again, 
> not be too off the mark?
> 
> The idea is he's the hairy romance-novel-cover Pict
> of your dreams emerging 
> from the forest to ravage you.....
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

=====
Señora Catalina
Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit


	
	
		
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Mar  8 13:42:11 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Nun's Habits
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What I had in mind when I suggested interviewing those nuns surviving from
when their Order wore its old-style habit was to treat them as primary
sources.

It's quite likely that they won't substitute for books of other studies, but
they do have unique experiences of wearing unusual costumes, and can tell it
what it was like, when and how they wore it.

If some costumes can be traced back to see how close it is to the original
models, and then compared with the ordinary dress of the founder's own time
and place, then that should be a useful sort of academic study, I would
think.

What worries me is that there are fewer of these treasures left every day,
and their memories don't seem to be being recorded by anyone.

Linda Walton,
(High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.).

Just to give you a taste of what I mean, I'll paste below some extracts from
the autobiography of Monica Baldwin, (1896-1975): "I Leap Over The Wall".
(First published 1949 by Hamish Hamilton Ltd, London, this well-known book
has been in print almost ever since it was first published - so there are
still lots of copies about.)

I'd be intrigued to read the reactions of those of your who know about C14
ladies-wear.

Page 266
In my convent, the upward ascent began with the reception of the postulant's
habit.  This took place as soon as possible after one's arrival.  The 'the
habit' was a thick black serge gown reaching to the heels and caught in at
the waist with a narrow belt of its own material.  Though the sleeves were
long and loose, a second pair, longer and even more enormous had to be worn
over the first on Sundays and feast-days as well as whenever the postulant
went to the choir or parlour.  The long, black, skewer-like pins which
secured them to the shoulders were concealed by one's 'kerchief' -- a large,
curiously pinned-and-folded piece of thick white linen, stiffly starched and
faintly suggestive of a combined helmet and cuirass.  A long dark blue
cotton apron was worn for going about the house and garden.  Whenever the
postulant went to the choir or parlour this was removed, folded carefully
according to a particular method and carried in one of the vast pockets
which, rather like a pair of saddle-bags, were slung beneath the habit round
one's waist.

The second stage was that of white-veiled novice.  . . .  The novice now
counted as a 'religious'; the black serge gown and linen kerchief were
exchanged for a white veil and habit closely resembling that worn by the
nuns who had made their vows.

Page 8
October 26th, 1941.  My sister Freda came to fetch me away  . . .  The
crescendo of shocks which awaited me began abruptly with my first
introduction to up-to-date underwear.  Frankly, I was appalled.

The garments to which I was accustomed had been contrived by thorough-going
ascetics in the fourteenth century, who considered that a nice, thick,
long-sleeved 'shift' of rough, scratchy serge was the right thing to wear
next your skin.  My shifts, when new, had reached almost to my ankles.
However, hard washing and much indiscriminate patching soon stiffened and
shrank them until they all but stood up by themselves.  Stays,
shoulder-strapped and severely boned, concealed one's outline; over them,
too long serge petticoats were lashed securely round one's waist.  Last came
the ample habit-coat of heavy cloth, topped by a linen rochet and a stiffly
starched barbette of cambric, folded into a score of tiny tucks and pleats
at the neck.

Page 10
The worst problem was my hair.

For twenty-eight years it had been cropped convict-wise beneath the
incredible system of headgear exacted by the Order to which I belonged.  As
a foundation, a ' snood', or long narrow strip of linen, was wound two or
three times round the head.  Over this, a close-fitting cap -- rather like
those worn by bathers -- was pulled down to the ears.  A piece of fine
cambric, called a 'tip', was then bound tightly across the forehead and tied
at the back with strings.  Next came the 'head' -- a kind of wimple -- which
covered the head and ears.  It was gathered in closely at the neck and then
frilled out as far as the shoulders beneath the starched barbette.  Over
this was pinned an erection of black cashmere which fell, gable-wise, on
either side of the head to just above the elbows.  Between this and its
lining of starched white linen was a double cardboard stiffening with strips
of cotton, fortified with yet more starched.  Finally, the veil proper -- of
thin, black material, rather like ninon -- was mounted on the underveil and
firmly secured with pins.  Eight thicknesses in all!  In summer it was apt
to give one headache.  The wonder, of course, was that, having worn it was
so many years, I had any hair left at all.

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Cynthia--

You can usually hear a change in the sound if your needle becomes dull
or bent. It's more of a thumping sound than your usual stitching.

Other than having a damaged needle, you should also put in a new needle
every time you start a new project. And it may help to use the correct
kind of needle:

Sharps (or denim or quilting) for woven fabrics, the heavier the fabric,
the higher numbered needle you want

Ball point for knits

Universal needles are easy to find, and they are supposed to work for
both wovens and knits. I don't care for them myself, I'd prefer to use
the correct type. I do put universals in my serger, though.

Embroidery or topstitch needle for larger threads

There's also a special needle for leather.

Kim


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Cynthia Virtue
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 11:10 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Machine needle question

Aside from skipped stitches or pulled fabric threads while stitching, is

there a generally-accepted way to tell if you need to change the needle 
on your sewing machine?

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

 From LoTR, the movie EE:
Legolas: Lembas! One bite will fill a man's stomach!
Pippin, to Merry: How many did *you* eat?
Merry, whimpering: ... four... (belch)
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] KILTS
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In a message dated 3/8/2004 11:58:27 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
Tiffsewsstuff@aol.com writes:

> have found them a good middle ground between "butch" and "goofy".  
> 

These are great! It is amazing how they look fine on the Scottish gentleman 
[actually the look my friend is going for] and wonderfully hooty on the sex 
kittens.

But he'll never spring for them.
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] KILTS
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 15:07:00 -0600
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I have always understood that the Utility kilts are a modern design and
therefore would not fit in at Renaissance faires, at least not for the cast.

De

-----Original Message-----
Even that may be changing with the advent of the
"utilikilt". This weekend I saw all sorts of men in
"Utilikilts, tee-shirts and sneakers. Black and khaki
seemed to be more popular than camo.


"Frankly I believe they were considered more manly
even before Brave heart. Amongst faire and the SCA
kilts have long seemed to have been admired as manly,
though less so in normal society. "

=====
Señora Catalina
Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit





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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] KILTS
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 15:53:13 -0600
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On a personal note, I don't believe such a thing as a "real"
construction-wise kilt which identifies one way of construction (though I
have been taught that the term "real" tartan is identifying the 1800's
regimental kilt. You have through time specific styles of the kilt, starting
with the wrap.
Boots - If you are doing an early period outfit, the ghillies styled boot is
expectable, from what I have been told there has been no proof of this style
but that does not mean they did not exist. My friend said that if such a
boot existed it would more then likely that it was wore by a person who
rides horses. The most common early leg covering which became the sock, was
a bias cut piece of material, sometimes plaid that was wrapped around the
lower leg and bound. These were worn with or with/o ghillies type shoes. In
the 1600's the wraps by this time were knitted knee hi "socks" or plaid bias
knee high "socks"
Very few tartans of present day are patterns used before 1600s. The tartan
was banned in the late 1600s(time?)to try to stop feuding.
There was an old textile book that had plaid patterns/samples in it but from
what I understand the tartan patterns were associated by counties not family
(though the counties were run by a specific family) The Oglvey's tartan is
said to be close to the original plaid associated with the family and area.
There are some kilt making companies that offer old pattern plaid that are
taken from that old book.
I believe that it was in the 1800s that the tartan was allowed to be worn
and there was a resurgence of Scottish pride.
In early period my friend said that in battle the men would tie up the
genitals so that they don't bounce around. As for the loincloth, he didn't
mention any loin cloth but wearing one during physical activity makes sense.
Oh wait maybe not, these are Scottish men we're talking about. :)
After writing this I found I missed the last part of your email.
So from what I understand he is not wanting to be of any particular time
period or is trying 1800s time period. If 1800's, the kilt was usually only
worn for formal occasions.

De

-----Original Message-----
Speaking of kilts....

I'm getting ready to make one for a friend. Although I'm going to follow the
proper procedure and make a "real" kilt....construction-wise....the wool is
not really a tartan. It's an even plaid [looks good though....grey and
brown-orange on black....the client chose it.]

Anyway....the guy I'm making it for wants to be butch [Good luck! Did I say
that???] and hates the socks. I told him he'd have to wear them. But then I
started thinking....

What about boots...like riding boots. But would one wear a kilt riding? Do
you have to ride side saddle in a kilt? "Shouldn't be riding astride with
his
kilt all flying up. "Tain't fittin' Jess t'ain't fittin'"
OK...I'm kidding. But can one don boots with their kilt?

I also thought gaiters. Not short white ones but more like military ones
from
the 18th or early 19th century [in a brown or natural duck] that come to or
above the knee. The socks would be underneath them I assume...and could roll
down over the top of knee high gaiters. But with lots of pewter buttons
could
look more butch than just socks.

Are we straying too far from the correct path? He's not to look formal in
any
way. We've got a plain leather sporran and he's just wearing an early 19th
century linen shirt. The guy's a big hairy bear and in truth would look
butch in
a tutu....but we aim to please the clientele.

What about a hat? Is there anything broad brimmed that would work and,
again,
not be too off the mark?

The idea is he's the hairy romance-novel-cover Pict of your dreams emerging
from the forest to ravage you.....
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From: "Ron Carnegie" <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] KILTS
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 16:46:25 -0500
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Hello

  I am not sure what the end result you are after is here.  Is this for
something historical?  Is this something to walk around highland games in?

	I can give you some historic and modern kilt wearing information.

	First riding.  Kilts are not worn for riding.  In fact through most of kilt
wearing history, kilts were worn by those not likely to be able to afford
horses.  The proper highland garment for riding are trews.  These are very
much like the hozen worn in Europe earlier.  They are wool, often plaid and
cut on the bias.  They are very tight and will have most of the same issues
(or benefits  ;) ) as the tights that were being discussed earlier.  These
are gone sometime in the 18th century.  By then a horsemen is likely to be
dressed in European fashion, though it might be in plaid.  What tends to
referred to has trews today are simply tartan trousers and are not the
garment I am discussing here.

	On the legs.  This varies through history and with money.  In the earlier
days of the kilt (late 16th through the 17th century) it is not unusual to
see Highlanders with NO footwear at all.  Many sites today will give you
difficulty with that. Most of the shoes seem to be similar to those worn
elsewhere in the same periods. As far as boots are concerned, I have never
seen a riding height boot in any period artwork and it would be disdained by
modern Kilt etiquette.  Modern Kilt etiquette does allow for low boots
however.  The British army uses these and hiking boots are common with
appropriate clothing.  These are usually worn with the high stockings.  The
British army and traditional hunters wear the same arrangement on the lower
leg that you would see in modern times with the kilt. Actually  so do
British boy scouts. Wool stockings folded down on top, held up with a flash
(a garter with a little flag of ribbon that hangs from the fold) and then
the boot.

   Early on the stocking were not knit but were cut from cloth.  These are
not the baggy buskins you often see depicted (Rob Roy and the commercial
pattern are two examples).  I have no idea where that look comes from, and
while it is easy to make they are ugly as sin.  By the American Revolution
it appears that there was about a fifty-fifty ratio of cut hose to knit hose
being worn by Highland regiments.

   I am surprised by your clients reluctance to wear hose.  Proper hose,
even most of the commercially available varieties are not in the least bit
unmanly.  What looks awful is one people cheat.  Modern crew socks, thin
modern longer length dress socks, these do look awful.  There are ways to
cheat, but the stocking must have a little bulk to it to look good.  Rag
wool cross country stocking for instance are far cheaper than Kilt hose and
look fine.

    The only gaiters I have ever seen worn with kilts are the short ones.
Early 19th century already is short length by the way, at least in the
British and American Armies. Most British regiments were discarding the
higher gaiter by the American revolution.  If you look at the depictions of
the Highland Regiments of the 7 Years or French Indian war period by the way
(Which is the High Gaiter period) you will see that the Highland regiments
are wearing no gaiters at all, but simply shoes and hose.  In the short
gaiter period the highlanders do wear them, and the Military and bands still
do.

    (I do actually have documentation for the 42nd (The Royal Black Watch)
wearing high blue woolen gaiters in the American Revolution one winter for
warmth, but they had discarded wearing kilts by the time.

	As far as brimmed hat well that depends on usage again.  Today headgear
doesn't seem to matter much (though some people feel only military should
wear the Glengarry). In history, the closest thing I have seen to a brimmed
hat worn with a kilt is the Foreign Service helmet often called a solar
topee (sp?) or pith helmet.  There are various models of these.  There was
also a period in the 19th century that a scotch cap was worn.  These are
like a modern diced balmoral but with a leather cap brim forward.  Actually
know that I mention them however, I am not sure I have seen them worn with a
kilt.

      For a couple hundred years one of the most common articles of Scottish
clothing was the Bonnet.  Today these tend to have touries (pom poms) on top
and come in many colors and often Tartan.  They now go by the name of
Tam-o-shanter or tam for short.  Through most of history they were blue or
blue with a red adjusting lace around the bottom.  These really were the
garment that marked you as Scottish in history more than the kilt.  The have
been worn through a longer period of history and in the lowlands as well as
the highlands.  I am not sure you would find the upper crust wearing them
still however, unless trying to make a Statement such as with the Jacobites.
I mention these bonnets not only because they are so common, but because
when worn correctly the provide cover from the weather and the sun as any
brimmed hat would. That was part of their purpose. Today they tend to be
cocked over on one side which looks a little less goofy but was strictly a
military style originally (to keep it from be jarred by a shouldered
musket). This also removes much of their function!  They should (unless in a
British Highland Regiment, be cocked forward witch causes them to work very
similarly to a driving cap.

	As far as Tartan is concerned, here it really depends upon purpose.  Most
scholars today will tell you that Family Tartan most likely did not exist at
all until the early 19th century.  There are some who believe that regional
tartans may be earlier, but that they still may have only been colors rather
than always restricted to the same sett (pattern of plaid).  Historically,
except for the simple tartans, you are probably better NOT using tartan.
Today may be a different matter.  By today I mean if his purpose is to hang
out at highland games.  Highland games have created their own culture based
more upon myth and romance than history.  Some of these people will look
very much down their noses at someone wearing "pretend" tartans or Tartans
they have no "right" to as well.  Many of these same people have no
difficulty with wearing the three feathers of the Laird in their bonnets
however!  Their is a modern etiquette to kilts today, but even the experts
don't agree with some of the finer points however.  We talked about
"snarking" earlier, this is not unusual amongst the modern kilted crowd and
it can be just as ill-informed as the comments on AIPON!  There is even a
webpage devoted to it!

Slainte
  Ranald Carnegie

> I also thought gaiters. Not short white ones but more like
> military ones from
> the 18th or early 19th century [in a brown or natural duck] that
> come to or
> above the knee. The socks would be underneath them I assume...and
> could roll
> down over the top of knee high gaiters. But with lots of pewter
> buttons could
> look more butch than just socks.
>
> Are we straying too far from the correct path? He's not to look
> formal in any
> way. We've got a plain leather sporran and he's just wearing an
> early 19th
> century linen shirt. The guy's a big hairy bear and in truth
> would look butch in
> a tutu....but we aim to please the clientele.
>
> What about a hat? Is there anything broad brimmed that would work
> and, again,
> not be too off the mark?
>
> The idea is he's the hairy romance-novel-cover Pict of your
> dreams emerging
> from the forest to ravage you.....
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Manly men don't wear tights  (was: Off Kilter)
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 16:29:09 -0600
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Late period = 1500's. Sorry, got wrapped up in the subject and assumed
people were following the trail.

De

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Kate M Bunting
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 3:19 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Manly men don't wear tights (was: Off Kilter)



>>> otsisto@socket.net 06/03/04 09:27:07 >>> wrote:
>I have noticed though that a man in a late period outfit is usually
>considered:
>A. Gay
>B. Married
>C. Going to be married
>.D. Momma sewed it.

When you say "late period", do you mean the later part of the period
the SCA do? (Don't forget a lot of folks on this list are not SCA
members.)_



Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby
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Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 22:33:10 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] KILTS
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Most guys these days wearing a kilt in non-formal situations wear low 
boots - desert boots, Doc Martens, or just hiking boots.  They have the 
right tough look with comfort (trainers/sneakers look just stupid). 
Something big and chunky but low.  I can't see it working with knee-high 
boots like riding boots - I think you want to avoid polished leather, 
and anything chunky that high is going to visually interfere with the 
impact of the kilt itself.

Jean


AlbertCat@aol.com wrote
>Speaking of kilts....
>
>I'm getting ready to make one for a friend. Although I'm going to follow the
>proper procedure and make a "real" kilt....construction-wise....the wool is
>not really a tartan. It's an even plaid [looks good though....grey and
>brown-orange on black....the client chose it.]
>
>Anyway....the guy I'm making it for wants to be butch [Good luck! Did I say
>that???] and hates the socks. I told him he'd have to wear them. But then I
>started thinking....
>
>What about boots...like riding boots. But would one wear a kilt riding? Do
>you have to ride side saddle in a kilt? "Shouldn't be riding astride with his
>kilt all flying up. "Tain't fittin' Jess t'ain't fittin'"
>OK...I'm kidding. But can one don boots with their kilt?
>
>I also thought gaiters. Not short white ones but more like military ones from
>the 18th or early 19th century [in a brown or natural duck] that come to or
>above the knee. The socks would be underneath them I assume...and could roll
>down over the top of knee high gaiters. But with lots of pewter buttons could
>look more butch than just socks.
>
>Are we straying too far from the correct path? He's not to look formal in any
>way. We've got a plain leather sporran and he's just wearing an early 19th
>century linen shirt. The guy's a big hairy bear and in truth would look 
>butch in
>a tutu....but we aim to please the clientele.
>
>What about a hat? Is there anything broad brimmed that would work and, again,
>not be too off the mark?
>
>The idea is he's the hairy romance-novel-cover Pict of your dreams emerging
>from the forest to ravage you.....
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

-- 
Jean Waddie
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Greetings--

> Noil *does* tend to stink to high heaven, but I haven't noticed any smell
in
> other forms of silk.

The silk in Target was actually a silk *knit*.  Dupionni, especially if you
buy it at an East Indian store, also has a distinctive smell that is
somewhat different than noile.  I can pick up either.

Susan

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In a message dated 3/8/2004 4:55:29 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
r.carnegie@verizon.net writes:

> I am not sure what the end result you are after is here.  Is this for
> something historical?  Is this something to walk around highland games in?
> 

It's for theatre. It's this daydream sequence so I could make it out of lame 
if I wanted!  :-P It's almost a gag really....he just comes out and grabs one 
of the female characters and carts her off. [Hey....I'm not directing!]

The guy is paying me to make it rather than rent something. He wants to keep 
it.

I'm doing the modern construction with hand sewn pleats in the back [the sett 
& his measurements demand 28 of them...to the stripe] so after the show it 
will be basically acceptable if he wants to wear it to Highland Games. It will 
actually be a nice looking kilt. I like the plaid. I insist on a sporran 
because that is the best way to avert Catholic School girl impressions. Besides, 
they're a good detail.

Basically I wanted to know if his black riding boots were out of the 
question. I think so now.
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> The silk in Target was actually a silk *knit*.  Dupionni, especially
> if you buy it at an East Indian store, also has a distinctive smell
> that is somewhat different than noile.  I can pick up either.

If you buy it in an East Indian store it's going to have the 
distinctive odor of the incense that they burn in almost every shop 
I've been in. (I personally like it and it's one of the few incenses 
that doesn't make me have sneezing, watery eyes and itching body just 
being around it. Craft stores on the other hand...)

But then, that's going to be nothing like what you smell in Target 
(which would probably be more likely to have the formaldehyde 
fumigation that most facric store warehouses have.)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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When it breaks? <g>
I've actually read, in the distant past, that it's a good idea to 
replace the needle with each new project, but it's not something I do. 
I tend to feel the tip for burrs and such, though.
--sue

Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> Aside from skipped stitches or pulled fabric threads while stitching, is 
> there a generally-accepted way to tell if you need to change the needle 
> on your sewing machine?
> 

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Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 22:53:43 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]History with at twist (was Garb Snarks)
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At 2:07 PM -0500 3/6/04, Shane & Sheridan wrote:
>Years ago when I first got into costuming, I stumbled accross a book in the
>University of Saskatchewan library that had a stunning photograph of a
>lovely African lady in full Elizbethan. The catch: the fabrics used for her
>gown were all animal/African prints in shades of orange, black and brown -
>zebra, leapord, you name it! They had her sitting on a dock with a tall ship
>behind her. Lovely!
>
>As I recall this same book had some of the Elizabethan Blackadder costumes
>in it as well. Does anyone here know what this book is, I never wrote the
>title down as I had been looking for something else at the time...

I believe the book you're thinking of may be:

Boswell, Thom (ed.).  1992.  Costume-Maker's Art.  Lark Books, 
Asheville, NC.  ISBN  0-937274-58-5

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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On Monday 08 March 2004 12:09 pm, Cynthia Virtue wrote:
> Aside from skipped stitches or pulled fabric threads while stitching, is
> there a generally-accepted way to tell if you need to change the needle
> on your sewing machine?

I find that if my thread keeps breaking, changing needles solves the problem.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Anything's within walking distance if you have the time." -Steven Wright
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On Sunday 07 March 2004 09:03 pm, Susan Carroll-Clark wrote:
> Greetings--
>
> > Noil *does* tend to stink to high heaven, but I haven't noticed any smell
> > in other forms of silk.
>
> The silk in Target was actually a silk *knit*.  Dupionni, especially if you
> buy it at an East Indian store, also has a distinctive smell that is
> somewhat different than noile.  I can pick up either.

You may well be right; I don't shop at Target very often, and my only local 
Indian store doesn't stock silk anything--it's mostly cotton and poly in 
various forms.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Anything's within walking distance if you have the time." -Steven Wright
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Subject: [h-cost] Bog Dress
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Does anyone know of good pictures or patterns for a Bog Dress?

Sidhra

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Interesting term...'Boots...Ghillies...exceptable-acceptable...
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 4:53 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] KILTS


> On a personal note, I don't believe such a thing as a "real"
> construction-wise kilt which identifies one way of construction (though I
> have been taught that the term "real" tartan is identifying the 1800's
> regimental kilt. You have through time specific styles of the kilt,
starting
> with the wrap.
> Boots - If you are doing an early period outfit, the ghillies styled boot
is
> expectable, from what I have been told there has been no proof of this
style
> but that does not mean they did not exist. My friend said that if such a
> boot existed it would more then likely that it was wore by a person who
> rides horses. The most common early leg covering which became the sock,
was
> a bias cut piece of material, sometimes plaid that was wrapped around the
> lower leg and bound. These were worn with or with/o ghillies type shoes.
In
> the 1600's the wraps by this time were knitted knee hi "socks" or plaid
bias
> knee high "socks"
> Very few tartans of present day are patterns used before 1600s. The tartan
> was banned in the late 1600s(time?)to try to stop feuding.
> There was an old textile book that had plaid patterns/samples in it but
from
> what I understand the tartan patterns were associated by counties not
family
> (though the counties were run by a specific family) The Oglvey's tartan is
> said to be close to the original plaid associated with the family and
area.
> There are some kilt making companies that offer old pattern plaid that are
> taken from that old book.
> I believe that it was in the 1800s that the tartan was allowed to be worn
> and there was a resurgence of Scottish pride.
> In early period my friend said that in battle the men would tie up the
> genitals so that they don't bounce around. As for the loincloth, he didn't
> mention any loin cloth but wearing one during physical activity makes
sense.
> Oh wait maybe not, these are Scottish men we're talking about. :)
> After writing this I found I missed the last part of your email.
> So from what I understand he is not wanting to be of any particular time
> period or is trying 1800s time period. If 1800's, the kilt was usually
only
> worn for formal occasions.
>
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Speaking of kilts....
>
> I'm getting ready to make one for a friend. Although I'm going to follow
the
> proper procedure and make a "real" kilt....construction-wise....the wool
is
> not really a tartan. It's an even plaid [looks good though....grey and
> brown-orange on black....the client chose it.]
>
> Anyway....the guy I'm making it for wants to be butch [Good luck! Did I
say
> that???] and hates the socks. I told him he'd have to wear them. But then
I
> started thinking....
>
> What about boots...like riding boots. But would one wear a kilt riding? Do
> you have to ride side saddle in a kilt? "Shouldn't be riding astride with
> his
> kilt all flying up. "Tain't fittin' Jess t'ain't fittin'"
> OK...I'm kidding. But can one don boots with their kilt?
>
> I also thought gaiters. Not short white ones but more like military ones
> from
> the 18th or early 19th century [in a brown or natural duck] that come to
or
> above the knee. The socks would be underneath them I assume...and could
roll
> down over the top of knee high gaiters. But with lots of pewter buttons
> could
> look more butch than just socks.
>
> Are we straying too far from the correct path? He's not to look formal in
> any
> way. We've got a plain leather sporran and he's just wearing an early 19th
> century linen shirt. The guy's a big hairy bear and in truth would look
> butch in
> a tutu....but we aim to please the clientele.
>
> What about a hat? Is there anything broad brimmed that would work and,
> again,
> not be too off the mark?
>
> The idea is he's the hairy romance-novel-cover Pict of your dreams
emerging
> from the forest to ravage you.....
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Mar  8 22:45:46 2004
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Do a search on Google or similar search engine for the Shinrone gown.
There are patterns for it available online.
Joe
---
Joe Robertson, Psy.D.
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Mar  8 23:17:23 2004
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> Does anyone know of good pictures or patterns for a Bog Dress?

	Which bog dress are you thinking of?  Someone else mentioned the
Shinrone gown but when I hear "bog dress" the one that comes to mind is
the one that's basically a Doric chiton.  I think it was from the Bronze
Age someplace in Northern Europe.  --One length of fabric, narrow top
fold, upper edges caught together with brooches at the shoulder.

	If you're SCA, Tournaments Illuminated had an article by Kass
McGann a few years back on her study and reconstruction of the Shinrone
gown.

annora

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On Mon, 8 Mar 2004, Brandy Deming wrote:

> Does anyone know of good pictures or patterns for a Bog Dress?

The term "bog dress" seems to be used for a number of different things.
(I've even heard it used to refer to the Greenland gowns, which were not
in a bog!) Can you give us a clue as to which particular find you're
thinking of -- if not by name, then by place, period, or style?

--Robin


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thanks

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joe Robertson" <joedr@charter.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 7:38 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bog Dress


> Do a search on Google or similar search engine for the Shinrone gown.
> There are patterns for it available online.
> Joe
> ---
> Joe Robertson, Psy.D.
> _______________________________________________
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Hi.  There are a number of gowns called "bog dresses."  Which kind are 
you thinking of? (It'd help if you could give us a time period and region.)
--sue

Brandy Deming wrote:

> Does anyone know of good pictures or patterns for a Bog Dress?
> 
> Sidhra


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   I believe the original poster was using the term "real" in relation to
the Tartan rather than the "kilt".  In the sense he meant real Tartan as in
sett and color of plaid registered with the College of Lyons.  The "great
kilt", "a feilidh-mhor (great wrap), a breacan-feile (tartan wrap) is often
referred to as a belted plaid or simply plaid as is the fake add on version
that is worn with the modern kilt.  I have never heard of a kilt referred to
as a tartan however. The regimental kilt is referred to by that very name,
though originally it seems to have been called by the gaelic "philabeg" or
small kilt.  There are four different versions of the small kilt that I am
aware off.  The early ones were box pleated according to Stuart Reid.  This
would have been in the late 18th century early 19th century. Modern
regimental kilts are pleated in the regimental fashion, which is to say to a
line of the tartan, much the way a belted plaid is folded.  The other two
are both civilian kilts styles and is really just two different ways of
pleating the back of the kilt.  One is "regimental" pleated like the proper
military kilt, but built like a civilian kilt and most commonly pleated to
sett.  This is a complicated method of pleating which causes the sett (or
pattern" of the tartan to still be visible from the rear just as it is on
the unpleated apron at the front.


	It was the "Act of Proscription" that stopped the wearing of kilts and
tartan.  This was in response to the last of the Jacobite wars in 1746.  It
was only in effect for a few decades.  Many claim that this cause earlier
family tartan to vanish but the period was to short for that to be true.
There is a very good discussion on the myth of family tartan in "So you want
to wear the kilt".  The early books giving these "early" patterns were
created by a couple of polish men following the lifting of the
proscriptions, while King George the IV was running around pretending to be
a Scot.  I can't find my copy around the house currently (too many books).
The modern "ancient" tartans are not an attempt to recreate early tartans
they are just the modern tartan woven in lighter shades to represent
vegetable dyes that have faded over time.  The better kilt makers will tell
you this.

	The bias cut fabric wrapped around the leg is a buskin.  I have no idea
where these have come from.  I have seen examples of this sort of thing done
by other cultures very early (pre 1000) but have not seen documentation for
Scotland.  In fact the common reference I see is bare-legged.  In fact
highlanders are often referred to as red legs or shanks from this.  The
earliest artwork I am aware of depicting the belted plaid (1631) shows four
highlander in service to King Gustavas Adolphus.  Two of these men are
completely barefoot.  Of the other two one appears to be wearing simple
shoes and the last, actually wearing breeches, appears to be wearing "cut"
hose.  By this I mean stockings sewn from woven cloth rather than knit.
This is wear the Argyll stockings originated, as well as the regimental
diced patterns.

   The belted plaid existence prior to 1600 is a much debated issue.  There
does seem to be ONE reference, but that is about it.  Reconstructing History
has a lot of good information regarding the history of Scottish clothing, as
does one of the links from the Scottish Tartan Museum
http://www.scottishtartans.org/

I remain
R Carnegie

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of otsisto
> Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 4:53 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] KILTS
>
>
> On a personal note, I don't believe such a thing as a "real"
> construction-wise kilt which identifies one way of construction (though I
> have been taught that the term "real" tartan is identifying the 1800's
> regimental kilt. You have through time specific styles of the
> kilt, starting
> with the wrap.
> Boots - If you are doing an early period outfit, the ghillies
> styled boot is
> expectable, from what I have been told there has been no proof of
> this style
> but that does not mean they did not exist. My friend said that if such a
> boot existed it would more then likely that it was wore by a person who
> rides horses. The most common early leg covering which became the
> sock, was
> a bias cut piece of material, sometimes plaid that was wrapped around the
> lower leg and bound. These were worn with or with/o ghillies type
> shoes. In
> the 1600's the wraps by this time were knitted knee hi "socks" or
> plaid bias
> knee high "socks"
> Very few tartans of present day are patterns used before 1600s. The tartan
> was banned in the late 1600s(time?)to try to stop feuding.
> There was an old textile book that had plaid patterns/samples in
> it but from
> what I understand the tartan patterns were associated by counties
> not family
> (though the counties were run by a specific family) The Oglvey's tartan is
> said to be close to the original plaid associated with the family
> and area.
> There are some kilt making companies that offer old pattern plaid that are
> taken from that old book.
> I believe that it was in the 1800s that the tartan was allowed to be worn
> and there was a resurgence of Scottish pride.
> In early period my friend said that in battle the men would tie up the
> genitals so that they don't bounce around. As for the loincloth, he didn't
> mention any loin cloth but wearing one during physical activity
> makes sense.
> Oh wait maybe not, these are Scottish men we're talking about. :)
> After writing this I found I missed the last part of your email.
> So from what I understand he is not wanting to be of any particular time
> period or is trying 1800s time period. If 1800's, the kilt was
> usually only
> worn for formal occasions.
>
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: manly men in tights
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> Secondarily, most of the single guys I know want chicks to dig them for
> who they are everyday, not because they dressed up in a costume.

No no! The nice clothing is just an attention-grabber! They should know
that, if they ever saw a woman in the morning without makeup, dissheveled
and puffy-eyed... We want the every day guy - but if we know that once in a
while he can make himself look nice... hmmm...
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bog Dress
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Shinrone is nice, but I had the Moy bog gown in mind:

http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/irish/moy.html

Sigh, gorgeous.
Michelle
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for SCA so, preferably from 1300-1600s :)

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 8:52 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bog Dress


> Hi.  There are a number of gowns called "bog dresses."  Which kind are
> you thinking of? (It'd help if you could give us a time period and
region.)
> --sue
>
> Brandy Deming wrote:
>
> > Does anyone know of good pictures or patterns for a Bog Dress?
> >
> > Sidhra
>
>
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Hi. See notes of previous letter. I was discussing my experiences, 
which, although you are within your rights to disagree with, are still 
what has happened to me. See also comment about "FARB", which is a 
variant of snarking which exists in reenacting as a whole. To the best 
of my knowledge, the standard "an attempt at pre-17th Cent. clothing" 
leaves a lot of room, and could certainly be called "not as detailed" 
without prevarication. My point, which you were able to sum up well, was 
that, with a "loose" standard allows people to make up their own 
standards, and "fail" others who don't live up to them. Their "bubble" 
that is burst is the old standby of the old days, that a person was 
ruining someones "Dream" (aka, you're killing my buzz, man...) by not 
being sufficiently "period". This can occur in a setting, for example, 
mentioned on this list previously, where a costumed historical 
interpreter recognized the shortcomings of a person ostensibly 
responsible for setting the clothing and other standards at a site where 
they worked. One is seen as being a buzz-killer (being nothing more 
serious than a social faux-pas in a private organization), the other as 
a serious dimunition of a historical sites' ability to properly 
interpret history to the public. I intend no offence to an organization 
of which I have been a member for over 20 years, but I do realize it's 
shortcomings vis-a-vis historical interpretation, especially in the 
arena of historical clothing, an area which, like it's martial aspects, 
is one of the most vivid, visual and lasting elements it presents to 
both it's members and the public, which it has a public responsibility 
towards (501c3 etc. )   Mike T.

otsisto wrote:

>I disagree. I have seen some LHs having standards and still there is
>snarking. Perhaps not as much as groups with little or no standards. I would
>like to point out that SCA does have standards but not as detailed as LHers
>because it covers a broad range of time and area.
>Also, there are many people who are in it for costuming or craft and not for
>the full authenticity experience. Most period police tend to forget that and
>then get annoyed at the person who they think is not authentic to their
>standards of periodness because  it bursts they little bubble.
>
>
>  
>

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From: "Brandy Deming" <queenscorner@verizon.net>
To: "SCA Costumes" <antir-costumers@antir.sca.org>,
   "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10403090001090.2440-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bog Dress
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 21:23:33 -0800
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WOW! Lots of options. I know that I can be really vague at times, but I am
REALLY new to this. I looked at a ton of websites and will have to keep
searching more on all the info that was sent. THANK YOU ALL!!
I think I am going to go with a rendition of the Shinrone Gown. I picked up
some OK pale blue fabric for the chemise and a patterned blue fabric for the
over dress for my summer garb and think that it will go nicely.
BTW, still working on Fortibra costumes. There was a woman from Everett who
offered her assistance and I think I accidentally erased the email. Can you
contact me privately again: queenscorner@verizon.net.

Thanks again.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 10:02 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bog Dress


> On Mon, 8 Mar 2004, Brandy Deming wrote:
>
> > Does anyone know of good pictures or patterns for a Bog Dress?
>
> The term "bog dress" seems to be used for a number of different things.
> (I've even heard it used to refer to the Greenland gowns, which were not
> in a bog!) Can you give us a clue as to which particular find you're
> thinking of -- if not by name, then by place, period, or style?
>
> --Robin
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Mar  9 00:27:04 2004
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Machine needle question
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I usually just touch the tip to my finger and decide, but that's probably
not accurate in any way :-)

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cynthia Virtue" <cvirtue+dated+1094317784.b33146@thibault.org>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 12:09 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Machine needle question


> Aside from skipped stitches or pulled fabric threads while stitching, is
> there a generally-accepted way to tell if you need to change the needle
> on your sewing machine?
>
> -- 
> Cynthia Virtue and/or
> Cynthia du Pré Argent
>
>  From LoTR, the movie EE:
> Legolas: Lembas! One bite will fill a man's stomach!
> Pippin, to Merry: How many did *you* eat?
> Merry, whimpering: ... four... (belch)
> _______________________________________________
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From: Michelle Plumb <mplumb@wideopenwest.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Bog dress pattern query.
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I was thinking of the Moy Bog dress as shown here:

http://reconstructinghistory.com/irish/moy.html

Sigh, gorgeous.
Michelle

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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Garb Snarks
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 00:31:34 -0600
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My disagreement was with one of the emails statement that there was no
snarking among those groups with standards, not your experience.
Sorry for not being clear.
De

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of michael tartaglio
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 11:20 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Garb Snarks


Hi. See notes of previous letter. I was discussing my experiences,
which, although you are within your rights to disagree with, are still
what has happened to me. See also comment about "FARB", which is a
variant of snarking which exists in reenacting as a whole. To the best
of my knowledge, the standard "an attempt at pre-17th Cent. clothing"
leaves a lot of room, and could certainly be called "not as detailed"
without prevarication. My point, which you were able to sum up well, was
that, with a "loose" standard allows people to make up their own
standards, and "fail" others who don't live up to them. Their "bubble"
that is burst is the old standby of the old days, that a person was
ruining someones "Dream" (aka, you're killing my buzz, man...) by not
being sufficiently "period". This can occur in a setting, for example,
mentioned on this list previously, where a costumed historical
interpreter recognized the shortcomings of a person ostensibly
responsible for setting the clothing and other standards at a site where
they worked. One is seen as being a buzz-killer (being nothing more
serious than a social faux-pas in a private organization), the other as
a serious dimunition of a historical sites' ability to properly
interpret history to the public. I intend no offence to an organization
of which I have been a member for over 20 years, but I do realize it's
shortcomings vis-a-vis historical interpretation, especially in the
arena of historical clothing, an area which, like it's martial aspects,
is one of the most vivid, visual and lasting elements it presents to
both it's members and the public, which it has a public responsibility
towards (501c3 etc. )   Mike T.

otsisto wrote:

>I disagree. I have seen some LHs having standards and still there is
>snarking. Perhaps not as much as groups with little or no standards. I
would
>like to point out that SCA does have standards but not as detailed as LHers
>because it covers a broad range of time and area.
>Also, there are many people who are in it for costuming or craft and not
for
>the full authenticity experience. Most period police tend to forget that
and
>then get annoyed at the person who they think is not authentic to their
>standards of periodness because  it bursts they little bubble.
>
>
>
>

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Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 22:47:28 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>,
   "SCA Costumes" <antir-costumers@antir.sca.org>
From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bog Dress
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At 7:22 PM -0800 3/8/04, Brandy Deming wrote:
>Does anyone know of good pictures or patterns for a Bog Dress?

I've seen/heard about a dozen different garments, from nearly a 2000 
year time span, referred to as a "Bog Dress".  It probably isn't a 
useful label for getting information about a specific garment.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
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Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 22:50:51 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bog Dress
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At 6:14 PM -1000 3/8/04, annora wrote:
>  > Does anyone know of good pictures or patterns for a Bog Dress?
>
>	Which bog dress are you thinking of?  Someone else mentioned the
>Shinrone gown but when I hear "bog dress" the one that comes to mind is
>the one that's basically a Doric chiton.  I think it was from the Bronze
>Age someplace in Northern Europe.  --One length of fabric, narrow top
>fold, upper edges caught together with brooches at the shoulder.

The Huldremose dress -- late Iron Age rather than Bronze Age.  The 
dating I've seen for it is around the 1st century CE.

Heather
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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I have thoaght about this could be a kind of mobbing of the english from france. They were enemies and at war all the time, the english and the french, and perhaps Garsault wanted to say, "look here. The English are so stupid, they lace their stays in the front" Even that he had no idea about it in the start.

Bjarne





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sorry about the last post. It was ment for another group.
The topic has ben disgussed here, but i asked the same question in another group.

Sorry

Bjarne





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>Subject: [h-cost] Bog Dress
>Message: 3
>
>Does anyone know of good pictures or patterns for a Bog Dress?
>
>Sidhra

Hello Sidhra,

If by chance you do mean the Herjolfsnes finds, which as mentioned before 
actually aren't bog finds, but frequently are called that way.

The National Museum of Denmark http://www2.natmus.dk/ has patterns of a 
female dress,  a male tunic, a male coat and a hosen pattern available 
through their museumshop.shop@natmus.dk  or info@natmus.dk , you can mail 
them and ask for the Herjolfsnes patterns.

Every pattern includes a hood pattern.

I made the patterns for myself as well as for my husband you can see them here,
http://www.gelfling.dds.nl/wardrobe.html
http://www.gelfling.dds.nl/herjolfsnes.html
and
http://home.hccnet.nl/r.vhallem/Dugald'sWorkshop/Wardrobe/14th_century.html

They have also the pattern of the Bocksten man costume available.

If you are good at drafting your own pattern than you should look here 
http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/bockhome.html
A site with excellent information and diagrams.

Good Luck,

Morwenna
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Catalina=20Saravia=20Quicedo?= <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] KILTS- not just for costume anymore.
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I didn't mean for faire or costume, I meant real life.
The comment was kilts have been considered manly among
SCA and Faire people, but it appears their popularity
is spreading to non-costuming people in the States.


 --- otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote: > I have
always understood that the Utility kilts are
> a modern design and
> therefore would not fit in at Renaissance faires, at
> least not for the cast.
> 
> De
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> Even that may be changing with the advent of the
> "utilikilt". This weekend I saw all sorts of men in
> "Utilikilts, tee-shirts and sneakers. Black and
> khaki
> seemed to be more popular than camo.
> 
> 
> "Frankly I believe they were considered more manly
> even before Brave heart. Amongst faire and the SCA
> kilts have long seemed to have been admired as
> manly,
> though less so in normal society. "
> 
> =====
> Señora Catalina
> Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>
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=====
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Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit


	
	
		
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In a message dated 3/9/2004 3:00:23 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

> sorry about the last post. It was ment for another group.
> 

Worry not....that post made me think, the term "English stays" meaning front 
lacing stays could be really just like calling a sack a robe a la Francaise or 
a Watteau gown [yuk! I hate that term!]. Yes, it originates in France [and 
Watteau does paint them] but all are not from France and it is most certainly 
not only found in France. It's for easy reference.
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michael tartaglio wrote:

> See also comment about "FARB", which is a 
> variant of snarking which exists in reenacting as a whole. 

I've seen this word used in a couple different places and I'm not sure 
I'm getting the meaning of it. Can someone explain "farb" to me please?



Dawn



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Carol wrote:

>      I may be able to get to my books over the weekend, but
meanwhile Mara  Riley was kind enough to look up some examples in her
library.  Mara
>is the
> author of _Whatever Shall I Wear_, and has been working on stays
research for
> the last few years.

Please pass on my thanks to her!


>  >I'm getting more confused. Waugh only gives one example of a real
set
>  >of 18th century stays before 1780 and those are front lacing,
dated
>  >1730-40 of unspecified origin; see page 39. Why therefore do you
>  >suggest that Corset and Crinolines supports the view that the most
>  >common English 18th century stays were back lacing?


>      Ok, I see where you're getting confused.  I mentioned Corsets &
>Crinolines  as one of the many books that describes/drafts 18thC
stays, aside
>from those  you cited from the Kyoto collection.  I was not looking
at C&C for
>the  conclusions, I was looking for more examples of stays that are
out
>there.
> While there may be mistakes, I do not think she changed the location
of the
> lacings of stays in her drafts.


But the examples given do not support the conclusion you suggest. In
your original post of 27th February you said

'From what I've seen, back-lacing stays are the norm... There are a
few sets of extant stays that are both front and back lacing, and the
back laces appear to be the way they were put on (the holes are more
worn on the back).  I think there are only one or two sets of
front-only lacing stays around, they appear to be very rare.
     This includes strapless "common" stays that are found in some
museum
collections, they are also most commonly back-lacing.'

Waugh doesn't actually give any provenance for the 3 sets of stays on
pages 42-4 or the set on page 39, so we don't know whether these are
English stays or not. Even if we assume, for the sake of argument,
that they are, then the 1730-40 stays on page 39 are described by
Waugh as front lacing, though the diagram also shows lacing holes at
the back. There are no mid century stays, the next being dated 1780,
after my period of interest, but those are backlacing only. The stays
on page 43 dated to 1793 are short, lace centre front and back, and
the stays on page 44 dated to the late 1790s are of unstiffened linen,
and only lightly boned, and also lace back and halfway up the front.
Thus there is only one pair of stays out of 4 in C&C  for the relevant
period which are only backlacing. This does not support the argument
that these were 'the norm'

>
>  >But in any event, why do you imagine that a French publication,
even
>  >if she had managed to get it right, is an authoritative source on
>  >English clothing construction?
>
>      You're the one who cited Garsault.  Isn't that French?

For the reasons I cited in my post of 29th February, which you seem to
have missed, so I repeat it below:

'Garsault's front lacing corps a l'anglaise pattern was printed in
1769, which suggests that French tailors had been making front lacing
stays long before the late 18th century, and regarded them as English
in origin. ...
Remember, I am interested in English stays of a particular period; an
aristocratic Englishwoman with fashionable pretentions might well
have bought stays in Paris, particularly if she was paying for new
gowns to be made also, but that's the limit of the known world as far
as fashion was concerned.  Particularly when attending a Ball in Bath,
fashionable Mecca for the upper classes...'

There is no doubt that English styles, particularly in the first half
of the 18th century, required dramatically different underwear to
French fashions. The stays worn by the 'straitlaced' Englishwoman
under those styles were higher at the neck and lower on the hip, and
flattened the bust to the point of invisibility. It could not be worn
under the sack or indeed, any of the fashions we recognise from the
heyday of the Rococo in France. Englishwomen could, and indeed, did
buy French styles of stays in Paris, or London.

Nichole's 'French and English Staymaker' of 349 Oxford St, London,
offered those different styles of stays (see Jane Ashelford, The Art
of Dress' 1996, page 151). Take your pick between English stays made
in France or French stays made in England...

 There is also no doubt that aristocratic women had a number of
different sets of stays, to wear under different garments. The English
Court set no fashions, since dress there was generally regarded as
archaic to the point of lunacy, but women who attended the Court had
to wear particular stays under Court dress. As late as 1773, when the
English Court had at last admitted the sack-which naturally went out
of fashion finally shortly afterwards- women were required to wear
'heart shaped stays'. These would have looked ludicrous under Vandyke
costumes and even sillier under the tube dresses which had been
popular for some years before they catapaulted into high fashion under
the auspices of Marie Antoinette's chemise a la reine.

Also the Kyoto
> collection and _Revolution in Fashion_ are Japanese.  Mia mentioned
that this
> collection may also have a bias.

Um, since I have not cited 'Revolution in Fashion' I am not sure of
its relevance... More seriously, all collections have bias. The Museum
of London has very extensive clothing holdings, but for the 17th, 18th
and 19th centuries high quality fashionable dress predominates. The
Kyoto collection also is heavily biased in the same direction, with
the difference that it is, of course, owned by Wacoal, which is one of
Japan's largest lingerie manufacturers, and therefore has a
particularly comprehensive collection of undergarments. It is
therefore a very useful bias for someone in search of underpinnings
for high fashion garments. Kyoto also has far more funds for purchases
and specialist employees, to the extent where it has pioneered a new
form of mannequin which is now used by a number of other museums.

>  >You are confusing Diderot with Garsault, see my notes above.

>      Ok, you're right there, sorry about that.  So Diderot only
copied
> Garsault's work and did not actually research the lacing
configurations
> himself?

Yes. All of the French enclycopedias were based on Garsault's work,
which Aileen Ribairo describes as 'the most important treatise on
tailoring in the period 1715-1789' see page 65 'Dress in Eighteenth
Century Europe' revised edition 2002. You should note also that
aristocratic Englishmen, with fashionable pretentions, as well as
Englishwomen, had their suits made in Paris for most of the 18th
century; again, Ribairo goes into very considerable detail.

>Also a French (Garsault's) idea of what was English, is
>actually what
> was commonly worn in England?

That isn't what I said, see above.

>  >But you still haven't cited any evidence which you base your
opinions on.

>      Ok, here goes!

> _Corsets and Crinolines_
> p. 39 - 1730-1740: laces front (over stomacher) and back.  Yellow
> brocade...
>
> p. 42, 1780, half-boned stays in red silk damask: lace in back only.

You've omitted 2 other pairs of stays, see above.


> _What Clothes Reveal_:


I would note that the remainder of the title is:

The Language of Clothing in Colonial and Federal America

This is not an analysis of clothing in Europe, and I'm pretty sure
that Linda Baumgarten would not wish anyone to claim that it was.
Museum curators tend to be funny that way...

>Two English, one American, all back-lacing.
> p. 40, woman's stays from Britain , 1770-1785: Back-lacing only,
silk outside
> covering, no straps.

I'm a bit confused here; which stays are dated when?

> p. 122 -- leather stays (children's, according to the caption),
Britain, 1760-
> 1780 -- lace back, front and sides.

Um, as far as I am aware children's stays were not indicative of the
structure of women's stays. Unsurprisingly, really...


> p. 150 -- front-lacing stays, strapless, possibly American,
1760-1775.

> (comments below are Mara Riley's)

> Yes, front lacing only -- these are the exception to the rule.  The
covering
> fabric is wool.  They're lined with blue/white checked linen;
definitely
> working class.

I haven't seen any strapless stays in my review so far, and there is
no mention of these in any of the standard texts on European clothes;
I wonder if these are American style, possibly deriving from
non-English settlors. The most common lower working class stays in
England were leather, see Francis Place, cited by Ribeiro.

> Linda Baumgarten, curator of cotum at the De Witt Wallace Gallery,
Williamsburg
> says about these stays:
> "Stays with front lacings may have served as maternity clothing and
would have
> been equally useful during breast-feeding.  A pair of front-lacing
stays has a
> rather large waist in proportion to the bust, suggesting maternity
wear; they
> measure thirty-two-nand-a-half inches at the chest and twenty-nine
inches at
> the waist (fig. 208).  The stays are quite heavy, constructed from
brown
> worsted wool, boned with baleen, and lined with coarse linen."

Indeed; obviously working class.  I note again that she is speaking in
the context of colonial and federal America. These hypotheses are
interesting for that time and place, but her observations on women in
society, also to be found on the Williamsburg website, are so clearly
untrue of England in the 18th century that it emphasises, yet again,
the dangers of taking comments out of context. The difficulty is that
you are citing these observations as if they are some kind of
universal truth, when all societies are particular...

> p. 211, three pairs of stays
> 1st -- Strapless, from Britain, 1740-1760, linen boned with baleen
and wood,
> waist tabs removed at a later date (possibly for use as boys' stays)

Back
> lacing only, plain fabric.

Again, lower class.


> 2nd -- Beige stays with straps, Britain, 1780, cotton lined with
linen, boned
> with baleen.  This has that partial lacing in front, stopping about
halfway
> down.


> 3rd -- white stays with straps, New York, probably worn by Ann Van
Renselaer,
> 1780-1790, cotton boned with wood or cane.  Again, partial lacing in
the center
> front.

It does not appear to have occurred to you that items which found
their way to America, or were constructed there, might not have been a
representative sample of items worn by the English, or indeed,
European population of different classes. Again, these issues are
central to historical study. I appreciate that many people find
statistics to be boring, but an awareness of those principles is
essential for the drawing of any kind of remotely reliable
conclusions...

 _Revolution in Fashion_:
> p. 47, 49:
> Corset, English, c. 1775, cotton and whalebone, back lacing, center
front sewn
> together (laces part-way down).
>
> p. 100: Left: Corset, c. 1760, with laced-on sleeves.  Laces front
and back.
>
> Center: Child's corset, back-lacing, mid-18th c.
>
> Right: corset, early 18th c., back and side lacing, pocket for busk
at center
> front.
>
> There's a picture (English) of a woman being laced into stays on
p.152 of RIF.
> They lace in front, and you can't see the back.
>
>
>      So, we have front & back lacing, and back lacing only, and only
one set of
> front-lacing-only stays, which are utilitarian and possibly for
maternity/
> nursing wear, not high fashion.

Thank you. This still doesn't justify your original statement that
back lacing stays were the norm, even if we forget the existence of
two sets of stays in C&C and rely on only two other books, one of
which is specifically about clothing in colonial and federal America.


>      Mara could not tell which stays in _Revolution in Fashion_ you
thought
> were front-lacing only.  Is it a different book that you are citing?

Yes. What I actually said (I seem to be repeating that phrase rather a
lot) was:  the three sets of 18th century women's English stays shown
on  pages 130-131 of 'Fashion', Kyoto Costume Institute are all front
lacing.

>      So I thought you meant what was normally worn by most people,
not that you
> were looking for examples for lower class.

I didn't say that either. A fashionable Englishwoman attending a ball
in one of the most fashionable places in England would wear stays
appropriate to her class and her gown, see above. Hence, my interest
in that subject.

>
>  >I am not aware of any fashion magazines in England sent to the
English
>  >colonies in America before 1770 or so.
>
>      Ok, so since your cut-off date is 1770, anything after that is
irrelevant
> to your project?

The heyday of the Rococo was well and truly over by 1770, and since I
am trying to construct a Rococo gown I need the right underpinnings. I
have no intention of essaying the foot high hairstyle of post 1770, at
least this year.

> > As for the belief that American fashion could mirror the heights
> >of the art achieved in Western Europe during that period, I am
> >not aware of any garment created in the colonies which could
> >make that claim.

>      There was imported clothing and that which the English
governors and their
> wives brought with them.  Probably not as high a quality as the king
or queen
> would wear, no.  And again, I was looking at your statement of
"reasonably
> common practise", which to me is different from the height of
fashion.

No, that was in reference to the lacing position of stays. Bath was a
mecca for fashionable people, which by definition excluded the king
and queen of England.

>  >all individuals in the colonies who aspired to something beyond
>  >'Barbie dressed as an English gentlewoman' could do was to send
>  >their measurements and thus import expensive knock-offs which
>  >bore little resemblance to the real thing, or visit Europe in
>  >the hope of getting gowns made which were the real thing, but
which
>  >were out of date by the time the ship had reached America on their
>  >return voyage.


>      Most of the original stays I've examined have been in American
museums.
> Not everything in American museums was used in America, they buy at
> international auctions, have items that were purchased by collectors
who bought
> in other countries, etc.  Many times what survives, and ends up in
major
> collections, is the haute coture.

You haven't actually cited these haute couture stays, though.

>So this is included in what I'm
talking
> about when I mention reenactors who are studying stays.  Though
reenacting a
> particular era, we look at whatever we can to get a sense of what
existed both
> before and after our period of interest.

Indeed, but this emphasises my point about history being particular,
not general. Aileen Ribeiro's masterwork on European dress is an
attempt to patch together vast numbers of sources about a vast area.
But she doesn't do so  by making sweeping generalisations about one
particular garment for the whole of the 18th century for the whole of
Europe, much less two continents.

>      That items worn in America in the 18th century were out of
> date - well,  sure, three months to the major ports and six months
to reach the
frontier.

High fashion for most of the 18th century was dominated by the French.
At the beginning of the period silk patterns changed yearly, by
mid-century silk patterns changed seasonally; it was physically
impossible for those patterns to reach America before they had been
superceded. To make matters worse, much of fashion lay in the
trimmings which had to be replaced very quickly; silk gauze could not
be washed, and silver or metal lace tarnished so quickly it was burnt
to reclaim the metal, and new lace purchased. And of course the style
of the trimmings changed very rapidly...

> But while three months behind London, someone in Philadelphia would
be on the
> cutting edge of fashion in that city.

Er, yes. But those gowns would have been laughed at by fashionable
Europeans as being hopelessly demode. The French laughed at the
English, who were a great deal closer...

>Three months is not much time
compared
> to the twenty year time span of your interest.

My interest is in the Rococo; hence the timespan. The underlying shape
of the gown did not change all that much; the silks and the trimmings
did.

>  >Your assumption is ill founded;  I am constructing my front lacing
>  >stays with horizontal bones, and it creates a rounded shape.
Again, if
>  >you look at page 130, Fashion, you will see that the front lacing
>  >stays do have horizontal bones.

>      So you're using two horizontal bones, split in the middle?
There must be
> a balance, then, of the flexibility of the bones.  On some
originals, the
> horizontal boning is thick enough that it would form a point in the
front if it
> were divided, rather than making a curved front as it does with a
solid piece.
> But with a thinner piece of baleen it may work.  I'll also be
interested to
> hear about your results!

Well, I'm using Wissner's boning, which is not baleen; it is much
stiffer due presumably to the larger width. But it seems to work fine,
once the stays are laced.  I don't regard my interest in the Rococo as
justifying slaughtering whales!

>
>  >>     My favorite draft is from Corsets & Crinolies, a
>  >> mid-century set of stays that lace both front & back,
>  >> with a stomacher as part of the stays.
>  >
>  >I can't find these, what page are they on, please?
>
>      Page 39.

Which are actually dated 1730-40, in C&C, and described by Waugh as
having a separate stomacher and front lacing, presumably from the wear
patterns, hence my being unable to find them:-)

>      Anyway, I don't know if this makes any difference in your
project.  Mara
> and I are both interested in the idea of a survey of as many sets of
stays as
> we can track down.  Great idea!  It will help us determine what is
consistent
> and it will be fun ot see where there are variations in the apparent
norm.

Well, I fear my statistics tutor brainwashed me to the extent that I
still wince every time I hear the word norm misused, but I have
arranged to visit the extremely understaffed Museum of London to
examine the 18th century stays in their collection. I'll happily pass
on my observations to you.

thanks and best wishes
Stevie


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From: "Stevie Gamble" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Museum of London: Good and bad news...
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Hi all,

I was speaking to Edwina Ehrmann who is the Curator of the Dress and
Decorative Arts
department at the Museum of London yesterday, and she tells me that
the Museum will have a major exhibition this autumn with an
accompanying book, working title 'London: World Fashion City' with
clothing from 1800 onwards. This is the good news.

The bad news is that they have a very long delay in private visits to
examine parts of the collection; my appointment there to examine their
18th century stays is not until 29th April. So anyone wishing to make
a similar appointment should get on to them as soon as possible,
bearing in mind also that such visits are only available on Thursdays.

best wishes
Stevie

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Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 08:08:17 -0800 (PST)
From: KATHRYN WOLTERS <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Bog dress
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Morwenna --thanks so much for sharing this site and info!
Albra

Esther Stouten <Gelfling@dds.nl> wrote:

>Subject: [h-cost] Bog Dress
>Message: 3
>
>Does anyone know of good pictures or patterns for a Bog Dress?
>
>Sidhra

Hello Sidhra,

If by chance you do mean the Herjolfsnes finds, which as mentioned before 
actually aren't bog finds, but frequently are called that way.

The National Museum of Denmark http://www2.natmus.dk/ has patterns of a 
female dress, a male tunic, a male coat and a hosen pattern available 
through their museumshop.shop@natmus.dk or info@natmus.dk , you can mail 
them and ask for the Herjolfsnes patterns.

Every pattern includes a hood pattern.

I made the patterns for myself as well as for my husband you can see them here,
http://www.gelfling.dds.nl/wardrobe.html
http://www.gelfling.dds.nl/herjolfsnes.html
and
http://home.hccnet.nl/r.vhallem/Dugald'sWorkshop/Wardrobe/14th_century.html

They have also the pattern of the Bocksten man costume available.

If you are good at drafting your own pattern than you should look here 
http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/bockhome.html
A site with excellent information and diagrams.

Good Luck,

Morwenna
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Garb Snarks
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In a message dated 3/9/2004 9:36:56 AM Central Standard Time, 
dawn@reddawn.net writes:
I've seen this word used in a couple different places and I'm not sure 
I'm getting the meaning of it. Can someone explain "farb" to me please?
Dawn


http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/1422/forigin.html

Dawn, here is the best article that I've ever been able to find on the origin 
of the term and what it was originally intended to mean.  I think nowadays, 
what it refers to varies from group to group and even person to person.  To 
some, it means the knowing and intentional wearing or using of anachronistic 
materials or objects in your impression.  To others, it's anyone who's doing 
anything un-period, whether they realize it or not.

The website also on other pages goes a bit into TBG (Tubby Bearded Guy) and 
firper (First Person).  It's a good article, enjoy!

-Tiff
"I have the right to remain silent ... I just don't have the ability."
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] KILTS- not just for costume anymore.
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In a message dated 3/9/2004 8:23:25 AM Central Standard Time, 
ladyforbeys@yahoo.com writes:
The comment was kilts have been considered manly among
SCA and Faire people, but it appears their popularity
is spreading to non-costuming people in the States.


Like ... ummm ... Richard Hatch??? LOL

-Tiff
"I have the right to remain silent ... I just don't have the ability."
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> See also comment about "FARB", which is a 
> variant of snarking which exists in reenacting as a whole. 

I've seen this word used in a couple different places and I'm not sure

I'm getting the meaning of it. Can someone explain "farb" to me
please?

Dawn
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Me too, since I used the word farble, but around here it has a
generally positive meaning, sort of a conversational amoeba :).

Catherine

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From: "Ron Carnegie" <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Garb Snarks and farbs
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 12:13:31 -0500
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> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Dawn
> Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 10:44 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Garb Snarks
>
>
> michael tartaglio wrote:
>
> > See also comment about "FARB", which is a
> > variant of snarking which exists in reenacting as a whole.
>
> I've seen this word used in a couple different places and I'm not sure
> I'm getting the meaning of it. Can someone explain "farb" to me please?
>
>
>
> Dawn
>


  	Farb is a word used in the reenacting world as a derogatory comment
towards another who is perceived to be less authentic then oneself, or more
recently to describe inauthentic items themselves that may in fact be in you
own possession.  Some time in that later use it will be used as farby. Many
LH groups are in fact very snarky, but thanks to groups having minimum
standards the snarkiness is usual directed towards other groups.  There used
to be two definitions floating around describing the words origins, but the
only one I remember is the one Michael (who is no farb)  mentioned earlier,
that being "Far be it (from either authentic or for me to say anything).
Frankly I suspect that it started some other way entirely.

	When an SCA snark says your garb is inauthentic, or post period, the
typical reenactor would say your uniform is farb, or would tell his "pards"
that you or your unit was farb. The word is usually not meant to mean new
recruits or fresh fish.  Most units help these people by providing them with
loaner gear, sometimes with a minimum time limit for them to provide there
own, typically a year. By the way, I didn't use the word typical above
(typical reenactor) to suggest a higher level of snarkiness at LH events.

	What makes a farb is in reality a sliding scale.  There is a popular little
joke with much truth to it that anyone less authentic then yourself is a
farb, anyone more so is Anal retentive or a Stitch counter.  This of course
implies that the only one is has the correct balance is the observer
himself!

	By the bye, there seemed to be some annoyance at the suggestion that the
SCA has no standards, but it really doesn't.  The only standard as set to
paper is "a reasonable attempt at pre-1600".  Now as a standard that is
pretty loose, I mean how do you define reasonable attempt?  Is my reasonable
the same as yours?  However even this standard has no enforcement.  It is
really a guideline rather than a standard.  This was a busy thread over on
the authentic-sca list some short time ago.

Cheers,

Ron

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Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 17:36:02 -0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Garb Snarks and farbs
From: <aquazoo@patriot.net>
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Ron Carnegie <r.carnegie@verizon.net> said:
> 	When an SCA snark says your garb is inauthentic, or post period, the
> typical reenactor would say your uniform is farb, or would tell his "pards"
> that you or your unit was farb. The word is usually not meant to mean new
> recruits or fresh fish.  Most units help these people by providing them with
> loaner gear, sometimes with a minimum time limit for them to provide there
> own, typically a year. By the way, I didn't use the word typical above
> (typical reenactor) to suggest a higher level of snarkiness at LH events.


     Also, a person who is a farb is the type who is not willing to change.  
Their motto - "I've been doing this since 1976 and it was fine back then!"

     Those new to the various periods might wear, own, or do something that is 
farby.  There is a lot of misinformation out there, and suppliers eager to sell 
items that move well whether or not they are correct.  We do try to be kind to 
the new people, but often they are overwhelmed with the (unsolicited) "helpful 
advice".

     Really it's in a perfect world where the new reenactor consults with the 
clothing inspector before making or buying anything.  But often it's someone 
brought along by another member, who figures it's ok to be lax at their first 
event, etc.

     Having played both with the SCA and reenactment groups, I have found less 
snarkiness in reenactment.  And maybe it's because the SCA snark stories are so 
much more colorful?  :-)

     -Carol

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Garb Snarks and farbs
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aquazoo@patriot.net wrote:
>      Having played both with the SCA and reenactment groups, I have found less 
> snarkiness in reenactment.  And maybe it's because the SCA snark stories are so 
> much more colorful?  :-)

It's probably regional.  I haven't encountered very much snarkiness in 
the SCA groups I've played in.

And although snarking does happen in the SCA, the stories get passed 
around, so 10 people might tell a story about one incident, which makes 
in seem like there were really 10 incidents.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

 From LoTR, the movie EE:
Legolas: Lembas! One bite will fill a man's stomach!
Pippin, to Merry: How many did *you* eat?
Merry, whimpering: ... four... (belch)
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Mar  9 12:52:49 2004
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Garb Snarks and farbs
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>     Really it's in a perfect world where the new reenactor consults with the 
>clothing inspector before making or buying anything.  But often it's someone 
>brought along by another member, who figures it's ok to be lax at their first 
>event, etc.
>

The group I was in previously had an annual pre-season  vetting session for all gear/clothing just to make sure that new knowledge was continuously applied.  I love it!  


Lisa Sinervo 
             
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Mar  9 13:25:05 2004
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Is there any kind of newbie dispensation? Should I wear a sign around my 
neck that says "I'm new and don't know much yet, but the next garb will be 
better"?

I'll be attending my first SCA activity this weekend with my husband, each 
in a leine made from a plaid flannel sheet <gasp!>. The pattern is from 
Kass, but the fabric is what is at hand (the saffron linen hasn't arrived 
yet) ...

Katie


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From: Margaret Sutherland <marga@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Garb Snarks and farbs
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>Cynthia Virtue wrote:
>I haven't encountered very much snarkiness in the SCA groups I've played in.

I haven't either, in fact I find everyone has been incredibly kind and quick to praise even the smallest effort.  

I'm still a relative newbie - but people are still kidding me (in a good way) 'cause they remember I came to my first event wearing a head-veil secured with bands, which I got from Cynthia's site -  thanks, eh!? *grin* 

http://www.virtue.to/articles/veils.html

Alienor


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In a message dated 3/9/2004 12:24:47 PM Central Standard Time, 
Katie@katiesorchids.com writes:
Is there any kind of newbie dispensation? Should I wear a sign around my 
neck that says "I'm new and don't know much yet, but the next garb will be 
better"?


Katie,

In an ideal world, there would be no one who was ever rude to anyone else, by 
word or look, about their garb.  Unfortunately every event you ever attend 
will also be attended by a large number of other human beings, who will run the 
gamut from friendly and accepting, to snotty and condescending.

Even when you get your garb really well researched and established, you may 
still run into people who are just ugly to you.  The best way to approach any 
type of event is simply to do what you can with what you have to do with, and 
then go with the mindset that if people have a problem with what you're 
wearing, it's *their* problem, *not* yours.  For every nasty person you might 
possibly see, there will be two dozen who are friendly, helpful and glad that you're 
there.

You may be fortunate enough to *never* run into anyone who's unkind, and I 
sincerely hope that is your experience.  But don't ever, ever let anyone who is 
unkind, ruin or even dampen your fun - you're there for you, not them!

-Tiff
"I have the right to remain silent ... I just don't have the ability."
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Garb help for newbies
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 > 
> The group I was in previously had an annual
> pre-season  vetting session for all gear/clothing
> just to make sure that new knowledge was
> continuously applied.  I love it!  
> 
> 
> Lisa Sinervo 
>              
>
  -Ideally you have a Clothier's Guild to help new
people get garb and help with authenticity. I used to
be Guildmistress for one, and I would have people come
over to look at patterns, look at garb, etc. I also
hosted a monthly "class" on some type of garb and
arranged weekend "fabric outings" to help new people
distinguish fabric types and learn what fabric is
generally appropriate for what period. I found this to
be helpful no matter what reenactment group you belong
to. 

Catalina 

  

=====
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Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit


	
	
		
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simply put, "Far Be it from me to criticize someone's
less than authentic gear." 



>> >
> > > See also comment about "FARB", which is a
> > > variant of snarking which exists in reenacting
> as a whole.
> >
> > I've seen this word used in a couple different
> places and I'm not sure
> > I'm getting the meaning of it. Can someone explain
> "farb" to me please?
> >
> >
> >
> > Dawn


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I wore a HUGE button to my first event.  "I'm new - be nice to me"

Didn't help....

Ro

http://quiz.ravenblack.net/blood.pl?biter=Ro

Message: 10
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 10:23:42 -0800
From: Katie Pleasance <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Garb Snarks 
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Is there any kind of newbie dispensation? Should I wear a sign around my 
neck that says "I'm new and don't know much yet, but the next garb will be 
better"?

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From: "Ron Carnegie" <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Garb Snarks 
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 14:40:13 -0500
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   Don't let these discussions deter you.  Threads like the current one can
easily make these things seem worse than they are.    Very few organizations
that I have ever seen in any context consist of large numbers of people
waiting around to insult others.  It is not nearly as bad as conversations
like this can make it seem.

Cheers and good luck
Ron
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Katie Pleasance
> Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 1:24 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Garb Snarks
>
>
> Is there any kind of newbie dispensation? Should I wear a sign around my
> neck that says "I'm new and don't know much yet, but the next
> garb will be
> better"?
>
> I'll be attending my first SCA activity this weekend with my
> husband, each
> in a leine made from a plaid flannel sheet <gasp!>. The pattern is from
> Kass, but the fabric is what is at hand (the saffron linen hasn't arrived
> yet) ...
>
> Katie
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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I'm still a relative newbie - but people are still kidding me (in a good
way) 'cause they remember I came to my first event wearing a head-veil
secured with bands, which I got from Cynthia's site -  thanks, eh!?
*grin* 

http://www.virtue.to/articles/veils.html 

Alienor

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Love that site!  But you reminded me of a snark; took a friend to her
first SCA event a year or two ago.  I had made her a pretty nice
cotehardie (not up to Robin's standards, but not to bad if I do say so
:) ) and she allowed me to try Cynthia's head-veil method on her. 
Half-way through the event one of our peers walked up to her, looked her
up and down and said she should have pinned the veil in the front, then
walked off.  Fortunately my friend found it an amusing experience :).

I do agree however that there is not an excessive amount of snarking in
the SCA but rather that a lot of the SCA snarking stories get retold and
retold.  Hmmmm, maybe that helps remind folks to not snark :).

Katie; go and have a ton of fun and if anyone snarks just thank them
for being so kind and helpful to someone at their first event!

Catherine
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	Tue, 09 Mar 2004 11:51:53 PST
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 11:51:53 -0800 (PST)
From: Aurelia Rufinia <aureliarufinia@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Garb Snarks
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I was fortunate enough to have a decent skirt and
bodice (generic, but acceptable) for my first set of
garb.  And then I Saw The Light and became Roman. 
::grins::

The closest thing I've had to a garb snark is a few
people saying (in varying degrees of snottiness) "But
Romans don't _belong_ in the SCA!"  To them I say,
take a deep breath and deal.

The thing is, there aren't a lot of people in the SCA
who know much about Roman womens clothing (or much
about Roman mens, either, but you can fake it pretty
good with a t-tunic).  And so every so often, I have
people come up to me and expect me to be gushing over
their new garb that, quote, they "made out of what
they saw in _Gladiator_!"  And I have to gently say
that no, the women's costumes in Gladiator were mostly
not even close (there was one where I could see where
they thought they were going,  but mostly didn't) and
not seem snarky, and I think I pretty much fail every
time.  Even though I'm trying to be constructive, they
take it as I'm just a mean person.  (Most common
retort: "Well, *I* like it!" and flouncing off.)  

Many people in my old Barony have used my methods in
good ways, which is awesome, but it's still
frusterating when people ask for my opion, and hten
don't like what they think they hear.

::grumble::

Aurelia/Reidan (Who hasn't been too terribly amused
with her household on this and similar subjects
lately) 



=====
Baroness Aurelia Rufinia
House Iron Maiden, Barony of Carolingia, 
East Kingdom, Northshield Ex-Pat

"And was there a lesson in all this? Huh? What did we learn about beer?"
"Foamy!"
"Good. Just as long as that's clear."

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Subject: [h-cost] Re:snarks/farbs/
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Snarking, what a lovely term

Pretty recently I have decided that you can’t tell anyone anything if they don't want to hear.  Minds are made up in all kinds of subjects.  Basically, you can lead a horse to water, but yopu can't make him think.

I often wish in American historic reenactment/living history there was some indicator of the level of authenticity to warn the spectator, like a red ribbon on the tail of a horse that kicks.
Categories coulld be:
We are here theme camping with the family…don’t expect our outfits to be authentic or for us to know loads about the era.
or
We are committed to portraying the era as authentically as we can.
or
We make compromises, We will not slaughter whales to make stays.
or
I'm new, teach me
or
I know everthing in the world.
etc. etc. etc.

All points are equally valid

Mia in Charlotte


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] KILTS- not just for costume anymore.
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Ah, Now I see.

De

-----Original Message-----
I didn't mean for faire or costume, I meant real life.
The comment was kilts have been considered manly among
SCA and Faire people, but it appears their popularity
is spreading to non-costuming people in the States.



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Ditto

De
-----Original Message-----
Me too, since I used the word farble, but around here it has a
generally positive meaning, sort of a conversational amoeba :).

Catherine

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Katie wrote:
>Is there any kind of newbie dispensation? Should I wear a sign around my 
>neck that says "I'm new and don't know much yet, but the next garb will be 
>better"?
>
>I'll be attending my first SCA activity this weekend with my husband, each 
>in a leine made from a plaid flannel sheet <gasp!>. The pattern is from 
>Kass, but the fabric is what is at hand (the saffron linen hasn't arrived 
>yet) ...

Katie, you shouldn't need the sign. You already have much better armor. Here it is: 

(1) you KNOW that you are new, 

(2) you are interested, you WANT to do better and you are asking questions,

(3) you KNOW that you have done the absolute best that you can right now, 

(4) you KNOW how to make it better next time, and

(5) you know the next thing you make WILL be better.

Confidence in these things will be your helmet, breastplate, greaves ...and all those other armor parts I don't know the names of yet :)) 

If someone is rude enough to make unpleasant comments (which I think we've established is actually rather rare, though it does happen), take a deep breath, smile, and say "Thanks for your comments. I know the next one will be better."

But you are far more likely to receive a warm welcome, I think. Let us know how it goes.

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0  Chris Laning
|  <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
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kat@grendal.rain.com wrote
>
>> The silk in Target was actually a silk *knit*.  Dupionni, especially
>> if you buy it at an East Indian store, also has a distinctive smell
>> that is somewhat different than noile.  I can pick up either.
>
>If you buy it in an East Indian store it's going to have the
>distinctive odor of the incense that they burn in almost every shop
>I've been in. (I personally like it and it's one of the few incenses
>that doesn't make me have sneezing, watery eyes and itching body just
>being around it. Craft stores on the other hand...)
>
>But then, that's going to be nothing like what you smell in Target
>(which would probably be more likely to have the formaldehyde
>fumigation that most facric store warehouses have.)
>
>Kat
><kat@redtrollforge.com>
>
I always assumed this was from the dye.  Black silk in particular stinks 
when you iron it, but it also leaks colour like anything, so I thought 
it was just a lot of excess dye.

Jean
-- 
Jean Waddie
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--------- Original Message ---------

DATE: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 14:19:42 
From: AlbertCat@aol.com
To: h-costume@indra.com
Cc: 
>These are great! It is amazing how they look fine on the Scottish gentleman 
>[actually the look my friend is going for] and wonderfully hooty on the sex 
>kittens.
>
>But he'll never spring for them.


What about ghillies?  They are incredibly easy to make, inexpensive at around $10-$20 for materials and look cool with a kilt.  Plus they were actually worn with kilts.

-Katie
(Who, if she is going to be ravished would prefer to be ravished by someone in authentic clothing)
---
Willow: No, Ma, hear this! I'm a rebel! I'm having a rebellion!
Sheila: Willow, honey, you don't need to act out like this to prove your specialness.
Willow:  Mom, I'm not acting out. I'm a witch! I-I can make pencils float. And I can summon the four elements. Okay, two, but four soon. A-and I'm dating a musician.I worship Beelzebub. I do his biddings. Do 
you see any goats around? No, because I sacrificed them.
Sheila:I'm not listening to this.
Willow:Prince of Night, I summon you. Come fill me with your black, naughty evil.





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Why is it that I always see the 10-gore referred to as 10th century
Icelandic garb?  Is the 10-gore the same thing as the bog dress and the
Herjolfsnes dress #38?  I remember going to the A&S symposium (SCA) in
Seattle a few years back and there was a class on it.  The handout I got
said 10th century, but Marc Carlson's site says 14th century.

Becky

------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 08:08:17 -0800 (PST)
From: KATHRYN WOLTERS <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Bog dress
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <20040309160817.99982.qmail@web9405.mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Morwenna --thanks so much for sharing this site and info!
Albra

Esther Stouten <Gelfling@dds.nl> wrote:

>Subject: [h-cost] Bog Dress
>Message: 3
>
>Does anyone know of good pictures or patterns for a Bog Dress?
>
>Sidhra

Hello Sidhra,

If by chance you do mean the Herjolfsnes finds, which as mentioned before 
actually aren't bog finds, but frequently are called that way.

The National Museum of Denmark http://www2.natmus.dk/ has patterns of a 
female dress, a male tunic, a male coat and a hosen pattern available 
through their museumshop.shop@natmus.dk or info@natmus.dk , you can mail 
them and ask for the Herjolfsnes patterns.

Every pattern includes a hood pattern.

I made the patterns for myself as well as for my husband you can see them
here,
http://www.gelfling.dds.nl/wardrobe.html
http://www.gelfling.dds.nl/herjolfsnes.html
and
http://home.hccnet.nl/r.vhallem/Dugald'sWorkshop/Wardrobe/14th_century.html

They have also the pattern of the Bocksten man costume available.

If you are good at drafting your own pattern than you should look here 
http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/bockhome.html
A site with excellent information and diagrams.

Good Luck,

Morwenna
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From: KATHRYN WOLTERS <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Bog dress
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Yes, I know it's confusing. After searching and reading thru everything I can get my hands on or find online  for the last few months--the impression I have arrived at is that it would appear that even though the Herjolfsnes gowns are dated from the 14th century---the case could be made forsome of the designs having existed 2 to 3 hundred years earlier on the continent. Marc Carlsons' site  has a place where several of these Kyrtles/Cotes/Tunics/Gowns, including the Herjolfsnes dresses , are  listed as falling into different  'types' of dresses. What is interesting is that some of these dresses from other sites have been dated  back 2 to 3 hundred years before. The Moselund Kyrtle being listed in the same 'family ' as the 
Herjolfsnes 42 --but the moselund kyrtle carbon dates to about 1045.
Albra

rreed@indirectobject.com wrote:

Why is it that I always see the 10-gore referred to as 10th century
Icelandic garb? Is the 10-gore the same thing as the bog dress and the
Herjolfsnes dress #38? I remember going to the A&S symposium (SCA) in
Seattle a few years back and there was a class on it. The handout I got
said 10th century, but Marc Carlson's site says 14th century.

Becky

------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 08:08:17 -0800 (PST)
From: KATHRYN WOLTERS 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Bog dress
To: Historical Costume 
Message-ID: <20040309160817.99982.qmail@web9405.mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Morwenna --thanks so much for sharing this site and info!
Albra

Esther Stouten wrote:

>Subject: [h-cost] Bog Dress
>Message: 3
>
>Does anyone know of good pictures or patterns for a Bog Dress?
>
>Sidhra

Hello Sidhra,

If by chance you do mean the Herjolfsnes finds, which as mentioned before 
actually aren't bog finds, but frequently are called that way.

The National Museum of Denmark http://www2.natmus.dk/ has patterns of a 
female dress, a male tunic, a male coat and a hosen pattern available 
through their museumshop.shop@natmus.dk or info@natmus.dk , you can mail 
them and ask for the Herjolfsnes patterns.

Every pattern includes a hood pattern.

I made the patterns for myself as well as for my husband you can see them
here,
http://www.gelfling.dds.nl/wardrobe.html
http://www.gelfling.dds.nl/herjolfsnes.html
and
http://home.hccnet.nl/r.vhallem/Dugald'sWorkshop/Wardrobe/14th_century.html

They have also the pattern of the Bocksten man costume available.

If you are good at drafting your own pattern than you should look here 
http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/bockhome.html
A site with excellent information and diagrams.

Good Luck,

Morwenna
_______________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 18:43:39 -0700
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Subject: [h-cost] Linen sale at Phoenix textiles.....
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Thought you'd like to know..

Sg (who is chanting, "I'm not gonna look, I'm not gonna look")

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Ealasaid nic Suibhne [mailto:mjenkins@omegalegal.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 6:22 PM
To: aten_textiles@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [aten_textiles] 100% Linen on sale

 

For anyone looking for 100% linen, I just got an email from Phoenix 
Textiles.  They have their linen on sale, at $6.36 a yard.


http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/deals---steals-real-deal.html

or

http://www.fabric.com  and then click on the Steals-Real Deals icon

They have several weights and the color selection is still pretty 
good.  In a week or so, they won't have anything but brown...

I've never gotten bad fabric from them.  They carry good quality 
fabrics.  

Ealasaid






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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <1df.1ae54658.2d7f6d9a@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Garb Snarks 
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 22:21:50 -0500
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Costume in time really doesn't change...Just hang out in the corridors of
any academic "Cattle Call" at the conventions and you will hear some of this
same 'snarking' being given behind cupped hands or not. Newbies are always
seen as newbies, and put more or less in their place.
>From Kathleen, who has been lurking at APA meetings for a couple of decades.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Tiffsewsstuff@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 1:57 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Garb Snarks


> In a message dated 3/9/2004 12:24:47 PM Central Standard Time,
> Katie@katiesorchids.com writes:
> Is there any kind of newbie dispensation? Should I wear a sign around my
> neck that says "I'm new and don't know much yet, but the next garb will be
> better"?
>
>
> Katie,
>
> In an ideal world, there would be no one who was ever rude to anyone else,
by
> word or look, about their garb.  Unfortunately every event you ever attend
> will also be attended by a large number of other human beings, who will
run the
> gamut from friendly and accepting, to snotty and condescending.
>
> Even when you get your garb really well researched and established, you
may
> still run into people who are just ugly to you.  The best way to approach
any
> type of event is simply to do what you can with what you have to do with,
and
> then go with the mindset that if people have a problem with what you're
> wearing, it's *their* problem, *not* yours.  For every nasty person you
might
> possibly see, there will be two dozen who are friendly, helpful and glad
that you're
> there.
>
> You may be fortunate enough to *never* run into anyone who's unkind, and I
> sincerely hope that is your experience.  But don't ever, ever let anyone
who is
> unkind, ruin or even dampen your fun - you're there for you, not them!
>
> -Tiff
> "I have the right to remain silent ... I just don't have the ability."
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Bog dress
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On Tue, 9 Mar 2004 rreed@indirectobject.com wrote:

> Why is it that I always see the 10-gore referred to as 10th century
> Icelandic garb?  Is the 10-gore the same thing as the bog dress and
> the Herjolfsnes dress #38?  I remember going to the A&S symposium
> (SCA) in Seattle a few years back and there was a class on it.  The
> handout I got said 10th century, but Marc Carlson's site says 14th
> century.

I don't know about the "always," as I've never heard anyone say that, but
I've heard a lot of mishmash about the Greenland gowns, so it doesn't
surprise me. Some data points:

The so-called "10-gore" dress from Herjolfsnes has been misrepresented in
some modern sources due to a quirk of the way the original diagrams are
drawn; it actually has 12 gores (or panels depending on your definition).
Among the couple dozen gowns from Herjolfsnes, three have the 12-gore
configuration: No. 38 (probably female, slightly shaped but rather loose
from about bust level down), no. 41 (probably male, slightly shaped to a
longer torso than 38), and no. 45 (probably male, not shaped). The other
gowns from Herjolfsnes have fewer gores/panels and different degrees of
shaping that doesn't seem to have any correlation with the number of
gores/panels.

The Herjolfsnes gowns were found in a graveyard that was crumbling into
the sea. I have no clue why some people call them bog dresses. "Bog find"
implies not only a different sort of ground, but also suggests clothing
worn by someone who met an accidental death (or clandestine murder!)  
rather than someone who was properly buried, a difference in circumstances
that might well affect the choice of clothing.

The Herjolfsnes clothing dates to around 1400. Although some people have
suggested that it might be used to extrapolate cuts of a few centuries
earlier because "those Greenland people were behind the times," I don't
think this is good logic. There's evidence that the 14th-c. Greenlanders
exercised some innovation in style, perhaps as an attempt to replicate
(but without having the requisite techniques) what they thought was being
worn on the mainland based on the extremely rare second-hand reports they
received.

The Greenlanders had more contact with Iceland than any other place, but
not much of even that. Because of the unusual circumstances of the
colony's isolation and demise, I don't think you can use the Greenland
finds as a solid proof of clothing cut for anyplace but late 14th-century
Greenland. There may have been similar cuts in other places/times, but if
so, it would almost certainly be an independent derivation, not a direct
line of influence.

There are other garments that are closer in time and locale to 10th c.
Iceland if you want to study that. You don't have to digress into
Herjolfsnes to do it.

--Robin


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>From: <rreed@indirectobject.com>
>Why is it that I always see the 10-gore referred to as 10th century
>Icelandic garb?  Is the 10-gore the same thing as the bog dress and the
>Herjolfsnes dress #38?  I remember going to the A&S symposium (SCA) in
>Seattle a few years back and there was a class on it.  The handout I got
>said 10th century, but Marc Carlson's site says 14th century.

Oh, you can't believe anything you see on that sight - he just makes stuff 
up  -- oh wait, that's MY site...

I don't know who's referring to it as 10th century Icelandic -- Greenland 
was -colonized- in the 10th century, and the settlement at Herolfsnese dates 
back to that period  and that may be what's confusing people.  (In fact, 
Herjolfsnes was the destination of Bjarni Herjolfsson when he first sighted 
North America according to the Graenlendinga Saga).  And the settlement was 
one of the last known to be inhabited before documented contact was lost in 
the early 1400s.

I don't know who taught the class you mention, but obviously there are some 
differences of opinion with these outfits.  There's a similar problem with 
some of the dates I've seen given for a shoe last found in the Western 
Settlement.

The so called 10-gore dress generally refers to either #38 or #41.  The 
dates of the garments are best guesses based on a number of things, 
including the shaped sleeves. Personally I think they look a lot like what a 
pattern for the Manessa Codex and Mac Bible garments probably would have 
looked like.   I'm expecting to redo the whole set of Herjolfsnes garments 
when I can get a copy of the new book on them.

Marc

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Subject: [h-cost] 1970s hairdos and future fashion
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Hi all,

I spent the weekend at a SF convention which had an exhibition of
costumes from a late 70's early 80's SF television show called
'Blake's Seven', as well as most of the actors. It was fascinating to
note that the designers had obviously made conscientious efforts to
create some sort of 'future fashion', heavily on the sexy side, but
the hair styles, men and womens, were resolutely and unmistakeably
70's. The only exception was the character Servalan, played by
Jacqueline Pierce, who had then, and has today, an extremely short
haircut which set a fashion then, and still looks amazingly good.
Actually, all the actors seem to still have the same hairstyles today,
give or take a little thinning on the top...

best wishes
Stevie

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Subject: [h-cost] snarks 
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Katie,

I can only second the opinions voiced by others, but I just know I would be counted amongst the "stitch counters" and "history nazis" by many and yet not live up to my potential by my betters.  You are making an effort.  And anybody who really cares about historical costume can see that from the get go.  Nobody-not even the best amongst us-is perfect.  All most enthusiasts are looking for is someone who WANTS to do it right.  Room for improvement is a completely different issue from not really trying!  Anyone who snarks you at an event is probably a) lacking themselves in the costume area or b) just plain confrontational or c) uneducated.  

As much as I have looked upon certain attempts with disgust, I have twice as often looked on lesser attempts as a fantastic beginning.  And I have NEVER EVER said to someone they could do better.  (hell, I could too!)  There are so many people who don't even try just because they think they have to have every single element perfect or else what's the point, who won't consider doing it in stages.  I long to see people who have a few things right, it means they are likely working on the rest!   Don't be afraid of people who might snark you.  It's probable you won't actually hear anything directly, most of these people are only comfortable with their self-righteousness within their circle of hangers-on.  If you do hear from someone, understand that 99% (if not more) are text-book bullies.  Simply trying to make themselves look better.  And if you refuse to crumple up into the fetal postion and weep, but have the attitude of learning more, they lose.  You win!  Go for it, with c!
 onfidence!



Jennifer Fleury
 
 
~~One half of the brain unit known as--www.jenla.blogspot.com--the OTHER hobby!~~


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Hi the list.
I have just assembled my waistcoat. But i still have to make the buttonholes, 11 in all.
As i have a lot of other things to do, pack my things, iron shirt and so on, could you please answer this silly question.
I baught a train ticket for 1.st class, do you think i could use the time in the train to sew the buttonholes? Nearly 6 hours of drive to Stockholm?

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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At 12:38 PM 3/10/2004 +0100, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

>Hi the list.
>I have just assembled my waistcoat. But i still have to make the 
>buttonholes, 11 in all.
>As i have a lot of other things to do, pack my things, iron shirt and so 
>on, could you please answer this silly question.
>I baught a train ticket for 1.st class, do you think i could use the time 
>in the train to sew the buttonholes? Nearly 6 hours of drive to Stockholm?
>
>Bjarne

I have often done my hand-sewing while riding the train to work (and for me 
it is only 20 minutes or so). I'm certain you can finish the buttonholes 
during the 6-hour train ride. Don't forget to post pictures of you in the 
completed outfit.  And have a good time in Stockholm.

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I'd think so.  That's only 2 buttonholes/hour.  I can't speak for trains
in Denmark and points continental, but the ones I was on in Britain were
definitely smooth enough for me to do my blackwork, which is pretty
exacting.
Just make sure you don't pack your buttonhole tools somewhere that's not
handy! <g> (been there, done that....)
--sue

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> Hi the list. I have just assembled my waistcoat. But i still have to
> make the buttonholes, 11 in all. As i have a lot of other things to
> do, pack my things, iron shirt and so on, could you please answer
> this silly question. I baught a train ticket for 1.st class, do you
> think i could use the time in the train to sew the buttonholes?
> Nearly 6 hours of drive to Stockholm?
> 
> Bjarne

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The only concerns might be if it is a crowded train.  Do you have a 
guranteed seat to sit in?  (I recall at least one time I had a ticket, 
but they didn't actually guarantee the *seat.*)  If so, you should be 
fine.  If I recall, all the trains I took in Europe were much more 
steady (non-bumpy) than the usual ones in the USA, so that should't be a 
problem.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

 From LoTR, the movie EE:
Legolas: Lembas! One bite will fill a man's stomach!
Pippin, to Merry: How many did *you* eat?
Merry, whimpering: ... four... (belch)
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Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> Aside from skipped stitches or pulled fabric threads while stitching, 
> is there a generally-accepted way to tell if you need to change the 
> needle on your sewing machine?
>
sound: goes 'thwock thwock'
I am trying to follow the standard of new project = new needle, so I 
actually notice the sound change now when the needle gets dull.
Cotton duck is hard on needles, I sometimes have to change the needle 
before the end of the project.

liz young

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Stevie Gamble wrote:


> the hair styles, men and womens, were resolutely and unmistakeably
> 70's. 

I know what you mean. I have a book with photos from a university 
clothing collection that was published in the late 60's. It is full of 
lovely gowns from the 1800's all worn by women with beehive hairdos  and 
60's makeup and eyeglasses. Some of the pictures are a shock to look at.



Dawn




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 I just had to share this.
http://www.el-nuevodia.com/Revista_Escape/Agosto/esc030817d.html


=====
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Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit


	
	
		
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Hello,

I noticed (and wanted to buy) 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2895756136&category=4156#ebayphotohosting

>From the photos it looks like it's a real antique corset and the "buy now"  
price for it was rather small. However, the seller only ships to USA and
I'm in Europe, so I though to share my finding here in hopes that if
somebody here buys it, they might send me a pile of pictures of it in
return.

-- 
Lynoure Rajamaki
lynoure@tuug.fi

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A real victorian corset on Ebay?
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It certainly looks real but from the blurb, it seems to be a reproduction
corset for use under reproduction clothing. I don't think the Victorians
used a cup size, which was mentioned in the description.
LynnD

On 3/10/04 9:25 AM, "Ella Lynoure Rajamaki" <lynoure@tuug.fi> wrote:

> 
> Hello,
> 
> I noticed (and wanted to buy)
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2895756136&category=4156#eb
> ayphotohosting
> 
>> From the photos it looks like it's a real antique corset and the "buy now"
> price for it was rather small. However, the seller only ships to USA and
> I'm in Europe, so I though to share my finding here in hopes that if
> somebody here buys it, they might send me a pile of pictures of it in
> return.


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Please note on the auction it says:
This piece was professionally made with metal boning and a metal front busk
This was a demonstration or display model, and so it shows some slight wear

And the title:
Professionally made Victorian Corset

I would guess this is NOT a real Victorian corset but a repop.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ella Lynoure Rajamaki" <lynoure@tuug.fi>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2004 12:25 PM
Subject: [h-cost] A real victorian corset on Ebay?


>
> Hello,
>
> I noticed (and wanted to buy)
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2895756136&category=4156#ebayphotohosting
>
> >From the photos it looks like it's a real antique corset and the "buy
now"
> price for it was rather small. However, the seller only ships to USA and
> I'm in Europe, so I though to share my finding here in hopes that if
> somebody here buys it, they might send me a pile of pictures of it in
> return.
>
> -- 
> Lynoure Rajamaki
> lynoure@tuug.fi
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Yummie!
I wish I could see them!

Catalina Saravia Quicedo wrote:

> I just had to share this.
>http://www.el-nuevodia.com/Revista_Escape/Agosto/esc030817d.html
>
>
>=====
>Señora Catalina
>Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit
>
>
>	
>	
>		
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Deredere Galbraith wrote:

> Yummie!
> I wish I could see them!
> 
> Catalina Saravia Quicedo wrote:
> 
>> I just had to share this.
>> http://www.el-nuevodia.com/Revista_Escape/Agosto/esc030817d.html

I just wish they had enlargements on the website.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

 From LoTR, the movie EE:
Legolas: Lembas! One bite will fill a man's stomach!
Pippin, to Merry: How many did *you* eat?
Merry, whimpering: ... four... (belch)
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From: "Liara" <liara@wanadoo.fr>
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Subject: [h-cost] Late French medieval outfit... seeking advice
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Hello everyone,

Being kind of a newbie in historical reenactement, and here only since a few weeks, I've yet learned a lot reading from all of you. That's why I now come to you, in these times of dire need... ;)
For a Medieval Faire I shall be attending in July, I'm recreating a late medieval/early rennaissance costume, inspired by the historic figure of Anne de Bretagne, duchess of Bretagne and twice queen of France (1477-1524). Alas I'm venturing far from my fav period...

Luckily there's a few historical pictures of Anne, so it shall not be too difficult to recreate something with at least "the look of it". Furthermore, I'm not looking for 100% accuracy, that I probably won't be able to reproduce anyway, and that I can't probably afford ;)

So here's my questions : the dress in itself should not be too much of a problem, but I'm not familiar with the headwear, which is probably the most recognizable item of the costume. Here's a few contemporary pictures of Anne :

http://www.asn-ibk.ac.at/bildung/faecher/geschichte/maike/treffpunkt/buch2-259.jpg

http://www.asn-ibk.ac.at/bildung/faecher/geschichte/maike/bilderkatalog/valois_f/4rrrrr.htm

http://www.publius-historicus.com/Images/anne_br2.jpg

Is it a regular French Hood? How can I recreate such a thing? Is the crown on the two last pictures just here as a symbol, or is it any trace of it being actually worn with this kind of hood ?

There's also an illustration of Anne by Fresno on costumes.org... To what extent is the picture historically accurate? The fur on the sleeves for example is of particuliar interest, because hermine is both the symbol of her duchy and the mark of her regal status... 

http://www.costumes.org/HISTORY/greatwomen/10340_06.jpg

I would be grateful if any of you could point me in the right directions, to the right books or websites, or provide me with any advice that would seem appropriate. Thank you!

Liara


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Or a book with patterns and pictures of how they made them.
I can't find much on that page.
I translated the text from Spanish to english with 
http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/tr



Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> Deredere Galbraith wrote:
>
>> Yummie!
>> I wish I could see them!
>>
>> Catalina Saravia Quicedo wrote:
>>
>>> I just had to share this.
>>> http://www.el-nuevodia.com/Revista_Escape/Agosto/esc030817d.html
>>
>
> I just wish they had enlargements on the website.
>



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Reproduction exhibit
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Okay, I've sent the same message on margospatterns list, so some of you
might get it twice, I'm sorry.

I've seen this exhibit here in Montreal, and I was very disappointed with
most of the work. Uneven stitches, weird construction. They looked fine from
10 ft away, but if you got closer than that, it started looking sloppy. It
took them something like 6 years to do the costumes, I was expecting much,
much better from a professional costume shop.

Also, there were water stains on the dresses, they were badly wrinkled and
had buttons missing. They were placed wrong on some of the mannequins. Part
of the exhibition displayed theatre costumes - obviously not meant to be
totally accurate - except that wasn't written anywhere, and there was a
video of a wedding playing, but it looked like it was made in the late 70's
or early 80's.

Some of the fabric they reproduced is nice though, and you can touch samples
of it. It's a shame they weren't closer to the originals. IIRC the Vicenzo
Gonzaga outfit is the only really nice one, with all the pearls and
embroidery. Well, there were a couple of not-repro-modern-in-Liz-style
dresses too, that were absolutely amazing.

But it wasn't worth the 6$ I paid to get in.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Catalina Saravia Quicedo" <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>
To: <Medieval_Spain@yahoogroups.com>
Cc: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2004 11:54 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Reproduction exhibit


> I just had to share this.
> http://www.el-nuevodia.com/Revista_Escape/Agosto/esc030817d.html
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Catalina=20Saravia=20Quicedo?= <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late French medieval outfit... seeking advice
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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The clothing pictured on Anne de Brtagne, or Anne of
Britanny are what is considered transition style. This
is slightly before the style of French hood well known
to be worn by Ann Boleyn.
http://www.ac-grenoble.fr/argouges/PEDAGOGI/Costume/Transition.htm

This appears to be a soft hood of velvet or black
damask similar in shape to the later rigid hood. I am
no expert in this area.


 --- Liara <liara@wanadoo.fr> wrote: > 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> Being kind of a newbie in historical reenactement,
> and here only since a few weeks, I've yet learned a
> lot reading from all of you. That's why I now come
> to you, in these times of dire need... ;)
> For a Medieval Faire I shall be attending in July,
> I'm recreating a late medieval/early rennaissance
> costume, inspired by the historic figure of Anne de
> Bretagne, duchess of Bretagne and twice queen of
> France (1477-1524). Alas I'm venturing far from my
> fav period...
> 
> Luckily there's a few historical pictures of Anne,
> so it shall not be too difficult to recreate
> something with at least "the look of it".
> Furthermore, I'm not looking for 100% accuracy, that
> I probably won't be able to reproduce anyway, and
> that I can't probably afford ;)
> 
> So here's my questions : the dress in itself should
> not be too much of a problem, but I'm not familiar
> with the headwear, which is probably the most
> recognizable item of the costume. Here's a few
> contemporary pictures of Anne :
> 
>
http://www.asn-ibk.ac.at/bildung/faecher/geschichte/maike/treffpunkt/buch2-259.jpg
> 
>
http://www.asn-ibk.ac.at/bildung/faecher/geschichte/maike/bilderkatalog/valois_f/4rrrrr.htm
> 
>
http://www.publius-historicus.com/Images/anne_br2.jpg
> 
> Is it a regular French Hood? How can I recreate such
> a thing? Is the crown on the two last pictures just
> here as a symbol, or is it any trace of it being
> actually worn with this kind of hood ?
> 
> There's also an illustration of Anne by Fresno on
> costumes.org... To what extent is the picture
> historically accurate? The fur on the sleeves for
> example is of particuliar interest, because hermine
> is both the symbol of her duchy and the mark of her
> regal status... 
> 
>
http://www.costumes.org/HISTORY/greatwomen/10340_06.jpg
> 
> I would be grateful if any of you could point me in
> the right directions, to the right books or
> websites, or provide me with any advice that would
> seem appropriate. Thank you!
> 
> Liara
> 
> 
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Catalina=20Saravia=20Quicedo?= <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late French medieval outfit... seeking advice
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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http://www.maidenfaire.com/vitem-headdresses.htm

These people sell a similar hood.



 --- Liara <liara@wanadoo.fr> wrote: > 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> Being kind of a newbie in historical reenactement,
> and here only since a few weeks, I've yet learned a
> lot reading from all of you. That's why I now come
> to you, in these times of dire need... ;)
> For a Medieval Faire I shall be attending in July,
> I'm recreating a late medieval/early rennaissance
> costume, inspired by the historic figure of Anne de
> Bretagne, duchess of Bretagne and twice queen of
> France (1477-1524). Alas I'm venturing far from my
> fav period...
> 
> Luckily there's a few historical pictures of Anne,
> so it shall not be too difficult to recreate
> something with at least "the look of it".
> Furthermore, I'm not looking for 100% accuracy, that
> I probably won't be able to reproduce anyway, and
> that I can't probably afford ;)
> 
> So here's my questions : the dress in itself should
> not be too much of a problem, but I'm not familiar
> with the headwear, which is probably the most
> recognizable item of the costume. Here's a few
> contemporary pictures of Anne :
> 
>
http://www.asn-ibk.ac.at/bildung/faecher/geschichte/maike/treffpunkt/buch2-259.jpg
> 
>
http://www.asn-ibk.ac.at/bildung/faecher/geschichte/maike/bilderkatalog/valois_f/4rrrrr.htm
> 
>
http://www.publius-historicus.com/Images/anne_br2.jpg
> 
> Is it a regular French Hood? How can I recreate such
> a thing? Is the crown on the two last pictures just
> here as a symbol, or is it any trace of it being
> actually worn with this kind of hood ?
> 
> There's also an illustration of Anne by Fresno on
> costumes.org... To what extent is the picture
> historically accurate? The fur on the sleeves for
> example is of particuliar interest, because hermine
> is both the symbol of her duchy and the mark of her
> regal status... 
> 
>
http://www.costumes.org/HISTORY/greatwomen/10340_06.jpg
> 
> I would be grateful if any of you could point me in
> the right directions, to the right books or
> websites, or provide me with any advice that would
> seem appropriate. Thank you!
> 
> Liara
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Liara wrote:

> crown on the two last pictures just here as a symbol, or is it any
> trace of it being actually worn with this kind of hood ?

I'd vote for it being symbolic only, because engineering such a thing 
would require it fitting over the structure of the hood in weird ways 
from a 3-d perspective.

> There's also an illustration of Anne by Fresno on costumes.org... To
> what extent is the picture historically accurate? 
> 
> http://www.costumes.org/HISTORY/greatwomen/10340_06.jpg

Looks like an elaboration based on the first link you gave us -- the 
detailing on the hood lappets is very similar.  I wouldn't trust it.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

Oh, and while we're at it, God also really hates shrimp. Maybe you 
didn't know. Shrimp are evil, as are all shrimp eaters. Clams, too. Hey, 
it's in the Bible. You can look it up. Why the Right is attacking 
homosexuals and not, say, Red Lobster, remains a mystery. -- Mark Morford
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--------- Original Message ---------

DATE: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 18:14:54 
From: annora <lisleong@k12.hi.us>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: 

>> Does anyone know of good pictures or patterns for a Bog Dress?
>
>	>
>	If you're SCA, Tournaments Illuminated had an article by Kass
>McGann a few years back on her study and reconstruction of the Shinrone
>gown.


The same lady has also developed a pattern based on the Shinrone gown.  It is carried by Canyon Keep Enterprieses (www.canyonkeep.biz), home to all kinds of spiffy stuff.  I couldn't find the pattern listed on the site, but if you email the Mairi I'm sure she will get back to you.

-Katie
a satisfied custoner of Canyon Keep


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1970s hairdos and future fashion
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Hair [and make up] is one of the ways you can almost always date the time of 
production of a film. Even in films that get the hair "right," there will be 
some extras.... or some little thing about otherwise correct hair that often 
gives it away.

This is, of course, only natural and indeed expected.
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From: Ella Lynoure Rajamaki <lynoure@tuug.fi>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A real victorian corset on Ebay?
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On Wed, 10 Mar 2004, Bice d'Este wrote:

> Please note on the auction it says:
> This piece was professionally made with metal boning and a metal front busk
> This was a demonstration or display model, and so it shows some slight wear

And slight rust, based on the photo. Also, in reproduction those busk 
loops tend to be silvery, never yet seem those dark ones in modern 
hardware.

I would call victorian corset maker as professional as many modern sewer, 
so I'm guessing the seller just doesn't realize something so old could be 
in such a good shape. But, yes, your guess is as good as mine.
 

-- 
Lynoure Rajamaki
lynoure@tuug.fi

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From: Ella Lynoure Rajamaki <lynoure@tuug.fi>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A real victorian corset on Ebay?
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On Wed, 10 Mar 2004, Lynn Downward wrote:

> It certainly looks real but from the blurb, it seems to be a reproduction
> corset for use under reproduction clothing. I don't think the Victorians
> used a cup size, which was mentioned in the description.

You are right, they didn't. I was (am?) assuming it was the current owners 
idea of what size the corset might match. I e-mailed the seller with 
some questions:

- Do they know who the maker is?
- Are there any labels, markings or stamps on the corset?
- Is there a larger photo?
- Is the size official or a questimate by the owner?

-- 
Lynoure Rajamaki
lynoure@tuug.fi

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Reproduction exhibit
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 16:17:30 -0600
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The Isabella d'Este reproduction looks as if the interlacing is connected to
the background fabric. I always thought by looking at the sleeves of the
portrait that the black velvet was separate (cutwork maybe) from the cream
fabric background.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Catalina Saravia Quicedo
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2004 10:55 AM
To: Medieval_Spain@yahoogroups.com
Cc: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Reproduction exhibit


 I just had to share this.
http://www.el-nuevodia.com/Revista_Escape/Agosto/esc030817d.html


=====
Señora Catalina
Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit





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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Mar 10 17:52:52 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Reproduction exhibit
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I seem to remember that it IS separate cutwork. What bothered me was the fit
of the dress, I really don't think it would have been worn UNDER the
breasts, it was probably not put properly on the mannequin. Also, that dress
had a line at the bottom as if it had been pinned shorter to be worn, and
then had never been cleaned before being put on display.

I was also intrigued by the headwear.

> The Isabella d'Este reproduction looks as if the interlacing is connected
to
> the background fabric. I always thought by looking at the sleeves of the
> portrait that the black velvet was separate (cutwork maybe) from the cream
> fabric background.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Catalina Saravia Quicedo
> Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2004 10:55 AM
> To: Medieval_Spain@yahoogroups.com
> Cc: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Reproduction exhibit
>
>
>  I just had to share this.
> http://www.el-nuevodia.com/Revista_Escape/Agosto/esc030817d.html
>
>
> =====
> Señora Catalina
> Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit
>
>
>
>
>
> ___________________________________________________________
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> your friends today! Download Messenger Now
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From: Ella Lynoure Rajamaki <lynoure@tuug.fi>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A real victorian corset on Ebay?
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On Wed, 10 Mar 2004, Bice d'Este wrote:

> I would guess this is NOT a real Victorian corset but a repop.

You guessed right. The seller answered my question and told me It's a 
reproduction.

I'm sorry about my mistake. It looked so antique in the photos.
Oh well. :)

-- 
Lynoure Rajamaki
lynoure@tuug.fi

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I have a "real" one and it's in vile shape. One of the apartments I had was
in an old house circa 1860 and behind one removable wall in my flat was the
servant's bedroom and the back stairs. Everything had been covered up and
closed off and there was a crawl space under the eaves. Among some old tin
cans (that I later sold and made a nice chunk of change) was a civil war era
crutch and a corset (the cane was also sold) the corset was tiny and in fact
I hadn't ever seen one so small. It's very simple and crumbling and has the
faintest traces of lace along the top. Steel bones too.

Bice
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ella Lynoure Rajamaki" <lynoure@tuug.fi>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2004 6:09 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A real victorian corset on Ebay?


> On Wed, 10 Mar 2004, Bice d'Este wrote:
>
> > I would guess this is NOT a real Victorian corset but a repop.
>
> You guessed right. The seller answered my question and told me It's a
> reproduction.
>
> I'm sorry about my mistake. It looked so antique in the photos.
> Oh well. :)
>
> -- 
> Lynoure Rajamaki
> lynoure@tuug.fi
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bog Dress
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 21:01:04 -0500
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On Wednesday 10 March 2004 03:27 pm, Katie Lewis wrote:
> --------- Original Message ---------
>
> DATE: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 18:14:54
> From: annora <lisleong@k12.hi.us>
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>
> Cc:
> >> Does anyone know of good pictures or patterns for a Bog Dress?
> >
> >	If you're SCA, Tournaments Illuminated had an article by Kass
> >McGann a few years back on her study and reconstruction of the Shinrone
> >gown.
>
> The same lady has also developed a pattern based on the Shinrone gown.  It
> is carried by Canyon Keep Enterprieses (www.canyonkeep.biz), home to all
> kinds of spiffy stuff.  I couldn't find the pattern listed on the site, but
> if you email the Mairi I'm sure she will get back to you.

I couldn't find any patterns on sale at Canyon Keep, though I admit I didn't 
look very long.  :-)  But Grannd Garb definitely carries Kass's patterns, 
including the Shinrone Gown pattern:

http://www.grannd.com/rhpatterns.shtml

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Anything's within walking distance if you have the time." -Steven Wright
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From: "Shane & Sheridan" <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca>
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References: <0EA3A02D-6FAF-11D8-945E-0003934DD4B0@modehistorique.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]History with at twist (was Garb Snarks)
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 14:58:55 -0500
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That would be great! :-)

It was an image that has stuck with me for years, whenever I talk about
fabric choices for costuming (as opposed to historical clothing) I always
mention it as an example of how you can turn any crazy fabric into a
stunning outfit, with a bit of imagination.

Would you be able to scan the Blackadder doublet and 'pumpkin' pants as
well? A friend of mine has always wanted that outfit, he feels there is
nothing more manly than black velvet and leather. (hey, he's 6 and a half
feet tall and well over 250 lbs, he'll look manly in whatever he wants.)
:-)

Thanks again!

Sheridan


From: "Sarah" <sarah@modehistorique.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2004 3:44 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost]History with at twist (was Garb Snarks)


> It was "The Costume Maker's Art".  I don't think it's in print any
> more, but I have a copy.  Would you like me to scan the image for you?
>
> Sarah
> http://www.modehistorique.com
>
>
> On Saturday, March 6, 2004, at 11:07  AM, Shane & Sheridan wrote:
>
> > Years ago when I first got into costuming, I stumbled accross a book
> > in the
> > University of Saskatchewan library that had a stunning photograph of a
> > lovely African lady in full Elizbethan. The catch: the fabrics used
> > for her
> > gown were all animal/African prints in shades of orange, black and
> > brown -
> > zebra, leapord, you name it! They had her sitting on a dock with a
> > tall ship
> > behind her. Lovely!
> >
> > As I recall this same book had some of the Elizabethan Blackadder
> > costumes
> > in it as well. Does anyone here know what this book is, I never wrote
> > the
> > title down as I had been looking for something else at the time...
> >
> > Sheridan


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Marc Carlson wrote:
I'm expecting to redo the whole set of Herjolfsnes garments 
when I can get a copy of the new book on them.

WHAT BOOK????????
-Megan
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On Wed, 10 Mar 2004, Megan M. wrote:

> Marc Carlson wrote:
> I'm expecting to redo the whole set of Herjolfsnes garments 
> when I can get a copy of the new book on them.

"Woven into the Earth," a complete re-analysis by the curator in charge of
the artifacts, Else Ostergard. The Danish version is out; the English not
yet, though I hear that one of my colleagues is now reading a proof copy.  
Last spring I posted here some advance ordering information at a discount
via David Brown, though I don't know if the discount is still in effect.
You can pre-order via Amazon, though. I'd encourage that, as the original
intention was to have a very small print run. If there are a lot of
pre-orders, I'm guessing they'll boost the print run. That's a decision
that can't be made in retrospect.

--Robin
eagerly hoping the publisher will remember to send the review copy they'd
promised, as I want to review it for the first volume of the Medieval
Clothing & Textiles journal

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On Tue, 9 Mar 2004, Marc Carlson wrote:

> I don't know who's referring to it as 10th century Icelandic --
> Greenland was -colonized- in the 10th century, and the settlement at
> Herolfsnese dates back to that period and that may be what's confusing
> people.  (In fact, Herjolfsnes was the destination of Bjarni
> Herjolfsson when he first sighted North America according to the
> Graenlendinga Saga).  And the settlement was one of the last known to
> be inhabited before documented contact was lost in the early 1400s.

Marc has a nice history of medieval Greenland on his site, at
http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/history/grontime.html 
It lists colonization about 985. The colony died off sometime between 1410
(last ship contact) and 1500. 

When I hear people talk about the people who left the Herjolfsnes garments
as being "settlers" in the way people talk about, say, American West
settlers in the 1800s who were staking out ground for farms and starting
everything from scratch, I like to point out that at the time the
Herjolfsnes garments were interred, that colony had been in place for at
least 430 years, maybe somewhat longer. That's longer than the current
American colonies have been established (measuring from the Pilgrims in
1620). The Herjolfsnes dwellers may have been subsistence farmers, but
they weren't newcomers carving their way into a new world. And things
didn't really start going to pot till that last century, when (apparently)
it got colder, and the crops failed, and things just weren't like they
used to be back in great-grandpa's day.

--Robin

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Hi all-
Out from lurking for a minute...  I am trying to document the use and 
technique of button loops in the late 1300s. I have read oblique 
references, but nothing tangible. I am working on a silk kirtle to wear 
under my cotehardie and would prefer not to cut into each sleeve 24 
times. Can anyone help?
Thanks!
Lisa

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] cotton velvet
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Hi.
I dont know about the authenticy about cotton velvet. But silk velvet is fake today, so you dont have any options.
Cotton velvet looks a little poor versus silk velvet, but then again you have to make choises.
I am travelling today to the gustavian society. We are having a teaparty at Hufudsta Castle friday evening and then a party at Nyckelviken, small country place. I shall go in a cotton velvet suit at the Hufudsta Castle tea party and wait for the full dress to Nyckelviken. 
As always, lots of photos will be taken, and uploaded on my webpage next week. I shall return on sunday.
My train is leaving in 2 hours time, so i have packed all my things.

Bjarne 





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Bog dress & American colonies (OT)
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I must point out that the first permanent English settlement in the New 
World was JAMESTOWN, not Plymouth.  Jamestown was founded in 1607 (I work 
there, so I know).  The Pilgrims just had better press.



Nancy Kiel
nancy_kiel@hotmail.com
Never tease a weasel!
This is very good advice.
For the weasel will not like it
And teasing isn't nice.





>From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Bog dress
>Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 02:20:37 -0600 (CST)
>
>When I hear people talk about the people who left the Herjolfsnes garments
>as being "settlers" in the way people talk about, say, American West
>settlers in the 1800s who were staking out ground for farms and starting
>everything from scratch, I like to point out that at the time the
>Herjolfsnes garments were interred, that colony had been in place for at
>least 430 years, maybe somewhat longer. That's longer than the current
>American colonies have been established (measuring from the Pilgrims in
>1620). The Herjolfsnes dwellers may have been subsistence farmers, but
>they weren't newcomers carving their way into a new world. And things
>didn't really start going to pot till that last century, when (apparently)
>it got colder, and the crops failed, and things just weren't like they
>used to be back in great-grandpa's day.
>
>--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] New BBC Costume Drama
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Some people may already have heard of 'Gunpowder, Treason and Plot', a new BBC2 costume drama starting this weekend, part one on the life of Mary Queen of Scots and the second on the life of her son.  I'm sure this will be shown in the US at some point soon.
However, I read a quote from the producer and thought it worth reproducing here for discussion:
"I'm very interested in this term 'costume drama' because what it does is put costume before drama - quite literally - and you do feel they're more about the bloody costumes than the drama.  Actually the period element should be secondary to the fact that you're trying to tell an interesting story.  The whole point about going back in history is to find the universal theme that has relevance today.
"The Gunpowder Plot is the original terrorist story involving explosives.  You've got to ask yourself what parallels Catholics trying to blow up Parliament has with Islamic fundamentalists trying to blow up the Pentagon today.  And then ask yourself whether that's more worthwhile than the idea of most costume drama, which is characters dressed up like Quality Street prancing around on the screen"
It doesn't sound to me like he's got much respect for his subject matter.  Well, should costume drama be done to tell the stories of the people it represents, or is it solely valuable to comment on today's society?
Discuss....
Freyalyn (now running for cover)
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] medieval button closures
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On Wed, 10 Mar 2004, Lisa VandenBerghe wrote:

> Out from lurking for a minute...  I am trying to document the use and
> technique of button loops in the late 1300s. I have read oblique
> references, but nothing tangible. I am working on a silk kirtle to
> wear under my cotehardie and would prefer not to cut into each sleeve
> 24 times. Can anyone help?

I've seen plenty of (modern) secondary references that seem to assume
these were used, but I've never seen anything in sources from the period
that would indicate as such. By contrast, buttonholes are easy to
document, both on extant garments and fragments and in artwork.

I've heard one person try to support the use of loops by pointing out that
some manuscript artists show buttons as lying on the closure line rather
than to the side of it. However, in the artwork in question, the images
tend to be tiny and not terribly detailed, with the buttons only a series
of dots painted along a single line, and I wouldn't put a lot of stock in
their precision.

However -- many sleeves show no visible means of fastening, but are
clearly tightened in some way. This is also true of the lower sleeves in
some 13th c. styles, and in the 13th c. we know that people were sewing
their sleeves shut. I think this combination of clues would support the
use of sewing or lacing, possibly hidden lacing, to close a tight sleeve
in the late 14th century. The fact that the artists also tend not to
depict lacing on a closed garment front (but do show it when the same
garment is open) makes this even more reasonable. You could do this by
actually sewing the wrist closed each time you put it on; perhaps keep a
needle with a sturdy thread permanently attached to the opening. Or you
could do it by positioning small rings (NOT grommets) close together along
the inside edge of the opening, one side offset from the other, and
"sewing" your lacing cord through them with a needle, in a spiral, each
time you put it on. The cord and needle would remain permanently attached
to the garment, like a point with an aiglet in other garments, and you
might even have it permanently laced loose, and just draw it up tight
after putting on the dress.

The opening need not be large, just a few inches along the wrist where it
needs "snugging up" after you put your hand through. Even on my buttoned
sleeves I only need to unbutton a few inches' worth to get my hands in and
out. Note also that the lacing opening would be on the inside of the wrist
seam, for access. This is different from buttons, which would go on an
outside seam.

If I were doing this, I would make my cord by fingerlooping silk thread
directly onto the needle, and affix the end of the cord to the inside of
the sleeve at one end of the opening. This attaches the needle permanently
and smoothly to the end of the cord.

Personally, I find the look of buttons to be nice, and the buttonholes not
terribly hard to do. I make them by hand (practice first!). They should be
as tiny as you can manage, and close together.

--Robin


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Bog dress & American colonies (OT)
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On Thu, 11 Mar 2004, Nancy Kiel wrote:

> I must point out that the first permanent English settlement in the
> New World was JAMESTOWN, not Plymouth.  Jamestown was founded in 1607
> (I work there, so I know).  The Pilgrims just had better press.

Ooh, good point. I wasn't thinking. But still in existence not quite so
long as the Greenland colony survived, so the overall point holds.

--Robin

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The writer of the series said on Radio 4 that he had not followed the
theories of any modern historian because "they only want you to buy
their books". Hasn't he heard of libraries? Shouldn't he be reading as
widely as possible on the subject?

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby
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Kate M Bunting wrote:

> The writer of the series said on Radio 4 that he had not followed the
> theories of any modern historian because "they only want you to buy
> their books". 

And he only wants you to watch his show, and a contempt for history does 
  sell these days.  We've discussed before that most movie-makers have a 
different priorities than we'd like them to have; this one is only one 
of a host of other historical movies that didn't bother to do enough 
research.

One currently popular director has been quoted as saying "the historians 
didn't agree with each other so I made my own decisions."

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

 From LoTR, the movie EE:
Legolas: Lembas! One bite will fill a man's stomach!
Pippin, to Merry: How many did *you* eat?
Merry, whimpering: ... four... (belch)
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: M Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] medieval button closures
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Hey Lisa... just reading Crowfoot last night... and working on my own 14th 
century piece...Sorry to say... I don't know of, and have not seen any 
reference to using loops as closures for buttons.  Indeed the retrieved 
pieces that date to the late 1300s are all button and button hole.
If you find any evidence to the contrary please let me know.   Now - back 
to my buttonholes.  ; >

Bridgette

>Hi all-
>Out from lurking for a minute...  I am trying to document the use and 
>technique of button loops in the late 1300s. I have read oblique 
>references, but nothing tangible. I am working on a silk kirtle to wear 
>under my cotehardie and would prefer not to cut into each sleeve 24 times. 
>Can anyone help?
>Thanks!
>Lisa

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] New BBC Costume Drama
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   Well I guess I can understand both views.  I interpret in a museum.  One
of the "bibles" for interpretation in historic or natural history museums is
Freeman Tilden's book "Interpreting Our Heritage".  This book lines out of
few rules of interpretation, the first of which is, "Any interpretation that
does not somehow relate what is being displayed or described to something
within the personality or experience of the visitor will be sterile."  This
is the point the director is making.  However, what is often forgot is the
message has to be delivered.  With any drama the production must suspend the
disbelief of the viewer.  Where does costume, props, and set design fall in
this?  These are the anchors that set the story.  The further off they are,
the less likely your audience makes the trip back and the less likely they
are to even listen to the story.  However lets be honest with ourselves.
That point where a costume ruins a movie differs with different people.
With most of the normal populace it is pretty low.  Look at the success of
Braveheart for instance. With others it is high (I do not like Braveheart
and never bothered to watch the Patriot because of historical inaccuracies)
The telling of the story also matters.  The better the story is told the
more mistakes one might accept.  Rob Roy is one of my favorite movies, the
clothing (that is the highland dress) is often very badly done but the story
makes up for it (as do some of Tim Roth's clothing).

    On the other hand there are those movies where the look is better than
the story (or the telling of it).  I think a lot of Turner's movies are this
way (OK most of them).  Merchant Ivory can be guilty of this, they most
certainly were with Jefferson in Paris, yuck!!

	I think I agree with the director the more I think about it, but not for
the same reasons probably. I also don't agree that most "costume Drama" is
about "prancing around". I think I would prefer Historic Drama (which is
what I use anyway).  No the film is not about the costumes, and as much as I
am interested in historic costumes,  for me, as a social historian, it is
the people who matter.  I am interested in the people and the costumes help
reach those people.  History on the other hand SHOULD come before the drama
(for most modern movie makers it does not). To paraphrase the director in
question to my point, "The whole point about going back in history is to go
back in history!"  Throw away all your accuracy and you haven't gone
anywhere!

	Now the problem with this discussion is that it comes up at all.  I can
believe that sometimes history gets in the way of a good story (look at
Hidalgo) but rarely does costume get in the way. (well maybe physically! ;)
You may need to find a balance between history and story, but not costume
and story.  That is at least not for story reasons.  I am fully aware of the
other reasons that might argue against costume accuracy, budget, modern
perceptions, actor obstinence, etc.

Ron

> "I'm very interested in this term 'costume drama' because what it
> does is put costume before drama - quite literally - and you do
> feel they're more about the bloody costumes than the drama.
> Actually the period element should be secondary to the fact that
> you're trying to tell an interesting story.  The whole point
> about going back in history is to find the universal theme that
> has relevance today.
> "The Gunpowder Plot is the original terrorist story involving
> explosives.  You've got to ask yourself what parallels Catholics
> trying to blow up Parliament has with Islamic fundamentalists
> trying to blow up the Pentagon today.  And then ask yourself
> whether that's more worthwhile than the idea of most costume
> drama, which is characters dressed up like Quality Street
> prancing around on the screen"

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Catalina=20Saravia=20Quicedo?= <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] cotton velvet
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I saw a comment once that 17th/18th century cotton
velvet was referred to as "Plusche" by German tailors.
Does anyone have documentation for that?




 --- Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
wrote: > Hi.
> I dont know about the authenticy about cotton
> velvet. But silk velvet is fake today, so you dont
> have any options.
> Cotton velvet looks a little poor versus silk
> velvet, but then again you have to make choises.
> I am travelling today to the gustavian society. We
> are having a teaparty at Hufudsta Castle friday
> evening and then a party at Nyckelviken, small
> country place. I shall go in a cotton velvet suit at
> the Hufudsta Castle tea party and wait for the full
> dress to Nyckelviken. 
> As always, lots of photos will be taken, and
> uploaded on my webpage next week. I shall return on
> sunday.
> My train is leaving in 2 hours time, so i have
> packed all my things.
> 
> Bjarne 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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In a message dated 3/11/2004 7:14:04 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
lynn@close-hainsworth.fslife.co.uk writes:

> It doesn't sound to me like he's got much respect for his subject matter. 

Indeed. So let him just dress everyone in jeans and T-shirts and lets see how 
dramatic and convincing it all is. What's wrong with him anyway? Hasn't he 
seen something like "Topsy Turvy"? Are we the viewers to believe it's really 
Mary, Queen of Scots, or some actress and some extras in stuff rented from 
Angels?

Pure anti-intellectualism. An excuse to dumb it down.

Sounds like he doesn't want to pay the costume department. It's all about 
$$$$ y'know....
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] cotton velvet
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In a message dated 3/11/2004 3:02:10 AM Central Standard Time, 
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:
But silk velvet is fake today, so you dont have any options.


This is not necessarily true.  There are many different versions of silk 
velvet available.  Some of them are not 100% silk velvet (either the pile or the 
backing or both is not pure silk), but you can still get true silk velvet.  You 
just have to be willing to search for it, and pay dearly when you find it.

-Tiff
"I have the right to remain silent ... I just don't have the ability."
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In a message dated 3/11/2004 9:24:39 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
r.carnegie@verizon.net writes:

> Rob Roy is one of my favorite movies, the
> clothing (that is the highland dress) is often very badly done but the story
> makes up for it (as do some of Tim Roth's clothing).
> 

Mine too...but I like the clothes, and find the story lacking in places. It's 
not accurate but informed costuming. The clothes CONTRIBUTE and are not just 
willy nilly nor are they just made up. This is what one must do when designing 
a "costume drama".
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In a message dated 3/11/2004 6:14:04 AM Central Standard Time, 
lynn@close-hainsworth.fslife.co.uk writes:
Actually the period element should be secondary to the fact that you're 
trying to tell an interesting story.  


This comment sticks right up under my skin for this reason:  So many of the 
HISTORICAL dramas that I've seen, both film and TV, have such utterly godawful 
thrown-together anachronistic costuming, that I CAN'T concentrate on the 
story.  The complete disregard shown to the costumes makes me laugh, roll my eyes 
or change the channel, because it ticks me off.  They pay scrupulous attention 
to the plot, or the dialogue, or the sets, or the props, or the 
cinematography, or the casting; but then they throw everyone in some schoolchild's vision of 
clothing.

Perhaps if producers like this started showing some respect for the very 
crucial element of costuming, it would show some back.  But as long as they're 
going to act like it doesn't matter what the characters wear ... well, tough 
tacos, big guy.  If I'm watching a movie where every element is so masterfully put 
together that nothing jumps out at me or rips me out of the time and place, 
then the costumes (while certainly enjoyable) are less likely to be a big issue 
for me.

-Tiff
"I have the right to remain silent ... I just don't have the ability."
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Subject: [h-cost] New Anne Boleyn biography
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 Joanna Denny has authored a 400 page biog of Anne Boleyn for the Tudor
costumers on this list.  Amazon.com.uk  has a release date of April 8th for
this book: Anne Boleyn: A New Life of England's Tragic Queen for those of
you, like me, who eagerly await most major Tudor biog. For those of you on
the west side of the pond willing to wait and save some $$ whether they are
Canadian or U.S., Amazon.ca has release dates of May 31 for the hardcover
and June for the paperback. Denny's book from the brief blurb on the
Amazon.uk website, seems as it will be more understanding of Anne and her
times than the recent views from Antonia Frasier, Alison Weir, and most male
writers.

Cindy Abel

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Read "Hollywood and History" an excellent book of how the movies have shown
the current(at the time of making of the film)fashionable aesthetic to some
degree since the dawn of the motion picture. Edward Maeder is the author. He
traces many films from designer's concept to finished product. Budget, time,
concern with star actors vanity(or lack thereof, in a few cases), studio
heads' concern, and even the Hays Code have all played a part in influencing
historic film costuming. Fascinating reading

For movies showing on TCM and AMC, especially, spotting all the
anachronistics in costuming, makeup, and hairstyles is the fun!!

Cindy Abel

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Tiffsewsstuff@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2004 9:41 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New BBC Costume Drama


In a message dated 3/11/2004 6:14:04 AM Central Standard Time,
lynn@close-hainsworth.fslife.co.uk writes:
Actually the period element should be secondary to the fact that you're
trying to tell an interesting story.


This comment sticks right up under my skin for this reason:  So many of the
HISTORICAL dramas that I've seen, both film and TV, have such utterly
godawful
thrown-together anachronistic costuming, that I CAN'T concentrate on the
story.  The complete disregard shown to the costumes makes me laugh, roll my
eyes
or change the channel, because it ticks me off.  They pay scrupulous
attention
to the plot, or the dialogue, or the sets, or the props, or the
cinematography, or the casting; but then they throw everyone in some
schoolchild's vision of
clothing.

Perhaps if producers like this started showing some respect for the very
crucial element of costuming, it would show some back.  But as long as
they're
going to act like it doesn't matter what the characters wear ... well, tough
tacos, big guy.  If I'm watching a movie where every element is so
masterfully put
together that nothing jumps out at me or rips me out of the time and place,
then the costumes (while certainly enjoyable) are less likely to be a big
issue
for me.

-Tiff
"I have the right to remain silent ... I just don't have the ability."
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New BBC Costume Drama
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In a message dated 3/11/2004 10:41:50 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
Tiffsewsstuff@aol.com writes:

> But as long as they're 
> going to act like it doesn't matter what the characters wear ...

Haven't you heard???? Costuming is "woman's work". It's just for girls and 
fags. It's not important like the manly prop department.

You guys realize I'm kidding, right? 

But there IS an attitude problem when it comes to costuming. An actress will 
in a heart beat exclaim "Oh, I'm not wearing yellow!" but she'll never say 
"This wall paper won't do!"

My attitude is: If your looking at the actor, you're looking at the costume. 
You had better spent some time and energy on the thing.
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From: "Chiara" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <1c7.16443345.2d81e291@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New BBC Costume Drama
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 09:54:36 -0600
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Then do not go to the movies for the costuming. Wear a blindfold and listen
to the dialog. Read a book.

Go to the movies that have nothing to do with period costuming. Just let it
go. No use hurting yourself like that and I am not being mean. :(

I know better, this is a real world. I do not want to go see a movie about
the real world, I do not want to be scared out of my panties, I want to see
beauty, laugh, take home a sweet story I can share with my kiddos. :)

Chiara
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Tiffsewsstuff@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2004 9:41 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New BBC Costume Drama


: In a message dated 3/11/2004 6:14:04 AM Central Standard Time,
: lynn@close-hainsworth.fslife.co.uk writes:
: Actually the period element should be secondary to the fact that you're
: trying to tell an interesting story.
:
:
: This comment sticks right up under my skin for this reason:  So many of
the
: HISTORICAL dramas that I've seen, both film and TV, have such utterly
godawful
: thrown-together anachronistic costuming, that I CAN'T concentrate on the
: story.  The complete disregard shown to the costumes makes me laugh, roll
my eyes
: or change the channel, because it ticks me off.  They pay scrupulous
attention
: to the plot, or the dialogue, or the sets, or the props, or the
: cinematography, or the casting; but then they throw everyone in some
schoolchild's vision of
: clothing.
:
: Perhaps if producers like this started showing some respect for the very
: crucial element of costuming, it would show some back.  But as long as
they're
: going to act like it doesn't matter what the characters wear ... well,
tough
: tacos, big guy.  If I'm watching a movie where every element is so
masterfully put
: together that nothing jumps out at me or rips me out of the time and
place,
: then the costumes (while certainly enjoyable) are less likely to be a big
issue
: for me.
:
: -Tiff
: "I have the right to remain silent ... I just don't have the ability."
: _______________________________________________
: h-costume mailing list
: h-costume@mail.indra.com
: http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Mar 11 11:11:44 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New BBC Costume Drama
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In a message dated 3/11/2004 10:05:47 AM Central Standard Time, chiara@io.com 
writes:
Then do not go to the movies for the costuming. Wear a blindfold and listen
to the dialog. Read a book.

Go to the movies that have nothing to do with period costuming. Just let it
go. No use hurting yourself like that and I am not being mean. :(


I'm sorry, I'm not *hurting* myself at all.  It's a bit unrealistic to 
suggest that people who adore, eat, sleep and breathe historical clothing, should 
just put themselves into some sort of bubble and not watch period pieces, 
because they might see something anachronistic.  

I have a better idea - how about if the directors and producers started 
trying to get it right instead!  There's no way I'll ever just sit down and shut up 
and not have an opinion about movies which knowingly and intentionally 
misrepresent history.  Incidentally - the "dialogue" is just as likely to be flawed 
and inaccurate for the period, if not more so.

"I know better, this is a real world. I do not want to go see a movie about 
the real world, I do not want to be scared out of my panties, I want to see 
beauty, laugh, take home a sweet story I can share with my kiddos. :)

Yes, this is the real world - so it would be lovely if directors, producers 
and movie costumers would portray the real world rather than their fantasyland. 
 And true period clothing is far more beautiful than the bizarre combinations 
that many of these historical dramas come up with.

If I want to see a fantasy piece, I'll go see LOTR or POTC (which I have, and 
adore these movies, and love the costumes).  But if I'm watching something 
that purports to be a history piece, presenting a historical figure in 
historical surroundings with historical dialogue, then it would be nice if they would 
at least attempt to put them in historical clothing that is appropriate and 
accurate.

-Tiff
"I have the right to remain silent ... I just don't have the ability."
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Mar 11 11:19:32 2004
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From: "kim baird" <kbaird@cableone.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] New BBC Costume Drama
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 10:17:29 -0600
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Whoa!

A lot of garb snarking going on here!

The guy does have a point.

And compare it with Shakespeare's plays, which can be set (and costumed)
in any time or place and still work.

Kim (wearing my flame-proof vest)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of AlbertCat@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2004 9:30 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New BBC Costume Drama

In a message dated 3/11/2004 7:14:04 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
lynn@close-hainsworth.fslife.co.uk writes:

> It doesn't sound to me like he's got much respect for his subject
matter. 

Indeed. So let him just dress everyone in jeans and T-shirts and lets
see how 
dramatic and convincing it all is. What's wrong with him anyway? Hasn't
he 
seen something like "Topsy Turvy"? Are we the viewers to believe it's
really 
Mary, Queen of Scots, or some actress and some extras in stuff rented
from 
Angels?

Pure anti-intellectualism. An excuse to dumb it down.

Sounds like he doesn't want to pay the costume department. It's all
about 
$$$$ y'know....
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Subject: [h-cost] Greenland/Colonies (was Bog Dress)
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>From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
>"Woven into the Earth," a complete re-analysis by the curator in charge of
>the artifacts, Else Ostergard...

That's the one.  I'm hoping that enough Libraries are going to buy copies so 
that it can be ILL'd, otherwise, I foresee some some majorly unhappy people.

>Marc has a nice history of medieval Greenland on his site, at
>http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/history/grontime.html
>It lists colonization about 985. The colony died off sometime between 1410
>(last ship contact) and 1500.

I always feel weird about that particular page.  It's getting recognition 
way out of proportion to the amount of work that went in to it, mostly 
because there's nothing else out there.

But yes, the date of colonization is pretty well established.  It's only the 
dates that the (two) settlement areas died out that is in doubt.   The first 
died out around 1350 (and even the Greenlanders in the other settlement 
couldn't say for sure when it happened).

>From: "Nancy Kiel" <nancy_kiel@hotmail.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Bog dress & American colonies (OT)
>I must point out that the first permanent English settlement in the New
>World was JAMESTOWN, not Plymouth.  Jamestown was founded in 1607 (I work 
>there, so I know).  The Pilgrims just had better press.

Just to be pedantic, we probably want to avoid the word "permanent".  
Jamestown lasted for less than a century, by which most of the inhabitants 
had moved on to other places.  The only major difference between that and 
Roanoake (1584/7-) is that we KNOW where the Jamestown inhabitants moved on 
to (mostly).  This doesn't even count the French (1562 Florida) or the 
Spanish (1493 Isabella on Hispaniolla; or 1526 San Miguel de Guadalupe in 
Georgia if you want to stick to the Continental North America, or 1565 Saint 
Augustine), or my personal favorites - the Basque whalers in Labrador and 
Newfoundland. starting in the 1520 and lasting about a century - curiously 
placing them in the area of "norse settlement" in Newfoundland - but I 
digress).  Sorry, I've had this dispute several times about when the "first 
European Shoemakers" showed up in North America.

None of this of course, alters the Robin's point that Greenland was an 
established European colony for a minimum of 425 years (985-1410) and 
probably a few years longer than that.  425 years before now was 1579.

Which means that if the Herjolfsnes folks WERE wearing 10th century then the 
clothing styles had not changed at all in that time.

Marc

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Mar 11 11:58:16 2004
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From: "Chiara" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New BBC Costume Drama
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Well, that is a hell of lot better clarification than the last email you
sent. :)

Your really did sound hurt.

But you are on the wrong list if you think those folks are here any longer
than to find and download our archives, filter out what they do not want,
and leave. Got my SAG card here somewhere ...

Good luck in changing Hollywood. You have a better chance with the Indy's.
They will listen.

Chiara
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Tiffsewsstuff@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2004 10:11 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New BBC Costume Drama



: I'm sorry, I'm not *hurting* myself at all.  It's a bit unrealistic to
: suggest that people who adore, eat, sleep and breathe historical clothing,
should
: just put themselves into some sort of bubble and not watch period pieces,
: because they might see something anachronistic.
:

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Mar 11 12:12:41 2004
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Subject: [h-cost] Supplies!
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Hi!

Is there anyone on this list in the Toronto area? I will be running out of
buckram very soon and need to find out where I can go (or send someone) to
get a fresh supply. I moved from western Canada this past summer, and I am
still trying to find suppliers to keep me in 'stuff' for my evil, fun,
sewing addiction.  :-) Anything North of Toronto would be helpful too, as
I'm living in Sudbury. Mail order would be fine as well.

I'm also looking for Wool batt for felt making.

Thanks for any ideas!

Sheridan


~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*

The wind riz and then it blew,
the rain friz and then it snew.
Spring has sprung, the grass is riz,
I wonder where the flowers is.
Spring has sprung, fall has fell,
winter's here and it's cold as
heck.



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Bog dress & American colonies (OT)
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Nancy Kiel" <nancy_kiel@hotmail.com>

> I must point out that the first permanent English settlement in the New 
> World was JAMESTOWN, not Plymouth.  Jamestown was founded in 1607 (I work 
> there, so I know).  The Pilgrims just had better press.


...And of course, there are the Spanish settlements, which predate Jamestown by quite a bit. (I had an ancestor on the 3rd boat to Jamestown, by the way, and have been having trouble tracking down exactly what date that would have been--do you know?)  

I spent my childhood in Santa Marta, Colombia, which is the 2nd oldest city in South America (founded 1525) ...and which has a continuing argument with nearby Cartagena (founded 1533) because Cartagena claims to be the oldest city in Colombia (they're wrong). In fact, it was such a spirited argument that we were taught the subject in kindergarten, and the memory has stuck with me over 20 years!

Older cities include León Viejo, Nicaragua (1524), and of course the first European settlement on the American continents (and in North America) was La Villa Rica de la Vera Cruz (1519); however, as the current Veracruz is rather distant from the original settlement, Veracruz is not the oldest city.

It's old hat to many European medieval costume researchers, but for an American, it's something of a unique experience to know that the city I spent my childhood in existed when they were making those nifty clothes I love so much (I lose interest in the 1530s, so it's a squeaker, but the dates still work). 

Spanish settlements, by the way, were populated by Europeans other than just Spaniards; among others, many disaffected Irish joined the Spanish army. That ancestor on the 3rd boat to Jamestown wasn't my first European ancestor to set foot in the Americas, not by a few decades! But the Irish who sided with Spain BEFORE they called themselvse the 'Wild Geese' and before the establishment of the Hibernia Regiment in Spain's army are a group that get almost no press at all. =}  

[. . . Although they're starting to get a bit--did you know that the historical Zorro may have been an Irishman (or possibly transplanted Englishman) named William Lamport, who was born in County Wexford in 1615, joined the Spanish army, then made his way to Mexico and was eventually burned at the stake by the Spanish Inquisition? Very interesting guy, and from what I've read, his life story would have made a much better movie than that mess we were treated to a few years back.]

-E 
(Hey, everyone's got a button, right? Now, someone bring up Prince Madoc and the "who got there first" argument will be complete! =} )

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In a message dated 3/11/2004 11:09:37 AM Central Standard Time, chiara@io.com 
writes:
But you are on the wrong list if you think those folks are here any longer
than to find and download our archives, filter out what they do not want,
and leave. Got my SAG card here somewhere ...

Good luck in changing Hollywood. You have a better chance with the Indy's.
They will listen.

Chiara


What folks?  Who are the "Indy's?"  I think you're reading wayyyyy too much 
into my posts and really putting your own spin on them.

The idea that I would be *hurt* by what costumes are put in any movie is a 
bit out there.  I'm aggravated by the lack of attention given to accurate 
costuming, that's all.  I'm not running around wasting time trying to change 
Hollywood or anyone else, I am simply expressing my opinion on the way *some* 
directors/producers view costuming period dramas.  And BBC - which was what the 
original topic was about - is quite a ways from Hollywood.

-Tiff
"I have the right to remain silent ... I just don't have the ability."
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Subject: [h-cost] Oldest Colony in the Americas
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 I think the oldest colony in the Americas was founded
in Panama. The Church of Nata was built in 1522.

Catalina

=====
Catalina
Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit


	
	
		
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>From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
>...And of course, there are the Spanish settlements, which predate 
> >Jamestown by quite a bit. (I had an ancestor on the 3rd boat to 
>Jamestown, >by the way, and have been having trouble tracking down exactly 
>what date >that would have been--do you know?)

The third boat to Jamestown was still the first voyage (which was comprised 
of 3 ships (Susan Constant, Discovery and that other one, oh right 
Godspeed).

>I spent my childhood in Santa Marta, Colombia, which is the 2nd oldest city 
> >in South America (founded 1525) ...and which has a continuing argument 
> >with nearby Cartagena (founded 1533) because Cartagena claims to be the 
> >oldest city in Colombia (they're wrong). In fact, it was such a spirited 
> >argument that we were taught the subject in kindergarten, and the memory 
> >has stuck with me over 20 years!

They didn't happen to discuss early Spanish shoemakers did they? (just 
grasping at straws).

>Older cities include León Viejo, Nicaragua (1524), and of course the first 
> >European settlement on the American continents (and in North America) was 
> >La Villa Rica de la Vera Cruz (1519); however, as the current Veracruz is 
> >rather distant from the original settlement, Veracruz is not the oldest 
>city.

Isn't the village Punta Villa Rica still in existance?

Marc

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] New BBC Costume Drama
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--- Ron Carnegie <r.carnegie@verizon.net> wrote:
> 	I can
> believe that sometimes history gets in the way of a
> good story (look at
> Hidalgo) but rarely does costume get in the way.
> (well maybe physically! ;)

Unfortunately, I think it can.  Costume (on screen or
in real life) is a way of communicating something
about the person's character to the viewer.  And
associations change, as the fashions we are used to
seeing change.  A character wearing clothing that in
its own time might have said "beautiful young lady" or
"respectable businessman" might now say to most people
"slightly deformed woman" or "eccentric".

I don't like it either, but even for the people who
want to, changing the public's perceptions is
necessarily a lengthy process, because it involves
changing a perception of "normal."  And we have quite
a few decades of tradition in portraying historic
costume on stage/screen that can't just be erased.

-Angela

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I just got the digest listed in the subject line -- four messages, all
replies to other messages I have not seen. Lately, I have been getting quite
a few replies without original messages, but this is a record. Is anyone
else, on or off the digest, having this problem? If it's just me, what could
account for it?

Gail Finke

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Greenland/Colonies (was Bog Dress)
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On Thu, 11 Mar 2004, Marc Carlson wrote:

> None of this of course, alters the Robin's point that Greenland was an
> established European colony for a minimum of 425 years (985-1410) and
> probably a few years longer than that.  425 years before now was 1579.

Thanks, Marc. I didn't mean to start an argument about which settlement in
the Americas was oldest. My point was to provide a frame of reference for
the people I find myself lecturing to, who often tend to think of the
wearers of the Herjolfsnes garments as immigrant settlers in the process
of carving out homes from scratch in a new country -- and failing. In
terms of length of time in the colony, it would make more sense to think
of them as equivalent to modern USians who talk about their ancestors
having come over on the Mayflower (which essentially translates to "we've
been here for a very long time and are well established"). That is: the
Greenland colonies lasted about 400 years before they failed, and they
apparently did reasonably well for most of that time, or they'd have gone
the way of Roanoake long before then.

--Robin

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   Yeah, that's why Jamestowne was referred to by Nancy as the first
successful English settlement.  The English themselves had earlier attempts
at settlement most notably on Baffin bay and Roanoke island.  The Spanish
were already all over the place prior to these dates.  Not only in the West
Indies and South America, but even on the mainland of North America.  St
Augustine is I believe the oldest permanently lived in European city in
North America. I was going to say just oldest city, but by that defintition
I suspect Chicago or Mexico City will be found to older.  Maybe plenty of
others.  A lot of these European settlers built their cities atop already
existing cities or villages. There were also settlements in the southwest
and even here in the Tidewater Virginia (not successful).

  By the bye, we have records not only of the arrival date of that third
ship (though I am not sure how it was determined which was third) but also
who was on that voyage as sailors and as settlers.  I think later voyages
would be more difficult, but the first voyage is very well documented.  I
wonder if your source meant third voyage...  Easy enough to find out though,
just match your ancestor to the list!  (There is by the way a Jamestown
Society which I believe is similar to the Daughter of the Revolution or
Confederacy or so on).  That group tracks for many Jamestown ancestors and
for a far larger period than just the original voyage.  These people could
no doubt help you.

   Now there IS a habit of biasing history in a strange hierarchy in
America.  New England first, than British, and then European.

Cheers,
Ron

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of E House
> Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2004 12:04 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Bog dress & American colonies (OT)
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Nancy Kiel" <nancy_kiel@hotmail.com>
>
> > I must point out that the first permanent English settlement in the New
> > World was JAMESTOWN, not Plymouth.  Jamestown was founded in
> 1607 (I work
> > there, so I know).  The Pilgrims just had better press.
>
>
> ...And of course, there are the Spanish settlements, which
> predate Jamestown by quite a bit. (I had an ancestor on the 3rd
> boat to Jamestown, by the way, and have been having trouble
> tracking down exactly what date that would have been--do you know?)
>
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] New BBC Costume Drama
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 14:52:54 -0500
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  There are some whopping hitstorical errors with the story to (Like anyone
would ever confuse Lord Argyll (a Campbell) for being a Jacobite!

	I agree with you by the way. The costumer did research but adapted.  She (I
think it was a women) admitted that very fact.  She used boot like things
for instance for similar reason to what was mentioned here earlier (off
kilter thread) When I put down the costume for this film I specifically mean
for the history.  I still think they looked good and for me they didn't
distract from the film.  I know for some they did (Are you still here on
this list Kathleen?)  I read and interesting review and interview with the
costumer in the L.A, times years ago.  They used to (I hope they still do)
run a Fashion in Hollywood column in there that was very good.  And as it
was brought up, in the industry Hollywood is usually used to describe the
Industry, or at least the big players of the industry regardless of there
actual location.  That's why Rob Roy which was made in Ireland can still be
covered in a Fashion in Hollywood column. Typically in this sense Hollywood
is being used in the negative sense, so often non-Hollywood studios will
contest this statement!  The "indy" world tends to use it for anything
mainstream.

Ron

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of AlbertCat@aol.com
> Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2004 10:35 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] New BBC Costume Drama
>
>
> In a message dated 3/11/2004 9:24:39 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> r.carnegie@verizon.net writes:
>
> > Rob Roy is one of my favorite movies, the
> > clothing (that is the highland dress) is often very badly done
> but the story
> > makes up for it (as do some of Tim Roth's clothing).
> >
>
> Mine too...but I like the clothes, and find the story lacking in
> places. It's
> not accurate but informed costuming. The clothes CONTRIBUTE and
> are not just
> willy nilly nor are they just made up. This is what one must do
> when designing
> a "costume drama".
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Shoemakers (was Bog dress & American colonies)
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Marc Carlson" <marccarlson20@hotmail.com>

> The third boat to Jamestown was still the first voyage (which was comprised 
> of 3 ships (Susan Constant, Discovery and that other one, oh right 
> Godspeed).

Thanks! I hadn't done too much research, but that would definitely explain why I thought I'd failed to turn up the date--I kept looking after the first voyage!

> They didn't happen to discuss early Spanish shoemakers did they? (just 
> grasping at straws).

No, but I assume you're familiar with the fortalezas in the Cartagena/Santa Marta area? When I toured them (~20 years ago) they did have a good many artifacts; I just can't remember any details of their displays, although it has stuck in my mind that some pre-dated the forts themselves. Unfortunately, the older artifacts might have just been, ykno, old cannon-balls and the like, but if you haven't yet, you may want to write them for information. 

Places worth trying in Santa Marta and Cartagena are San Felipe de Barajas, San Fernando, and San Jose de Bocachica. The Basílical Menor (a cathedral begun in the 1530s, if I remember right) has certain relics and other historical material.  I've visited each, but honestly I can't remember what was where, except that (sadly) one was having serious flooding problems which destroyed some of the artifacts. Oh! And I know nothing about it, but in Cartagena there's a place called Monumento a los Zapatos Viejos (old shoes)! 

I might be able to help a bit with native shoemaking, but that's probably no use to you. 

There are several excellent colonial museums in that area with at least some 16thC information, but I REALLY wouldn't suggest a visit, especially not to Santa Marta; write instead. It's even more dangerous than its reputation, but the danger goes beyond run-of-the-mill shootings, muggings, blood feuds, drug wars, etc.  My family is still in touch with several Colombian friends, and the news we hear from them tends to run along the lines of "Remember that village in which you spent the dry seasons? It was razed by guerrilleros and the survivors were taken into slavery." 

You know those moments when you really feel like you're connecting with history? Yeah, well, they're not all good. 

> Isn't the village Punta Villa Rica still in existance?

Yes, but my understanding is that it wasn't continuously inhabited, as the original Vera Cruz inhabitants all moved--I could be wrong, though. 

-E


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From: "Ron Carnegie" <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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  I might not have been clear.  That is exactly what I was referring to when
I said ,"I am fully aware of the other reasons that might argue against
costume accuracy, budget, modern perceptions, actor obstinence, etc."

  Modern perceptions, like some we have discussed recently on this list is
where I meant much the same as what you are saying.  I think it is often
over used as a reason or crutch to bad costuming (or sometimes creative
costuming), but nonetheless it can be a reason to avoid accuracy. That is
why I choose the word rarely.  Some of Rob roys errors were for this reason.
Musketeer films have long been guilty of this and all of the Errol Flynn
stuff.  That was why I didn't use him as an example in the unmanly clothing
thread earlier.  Yes he was manly (maybe to much so ;) ) but frankly I think
he rarely dressed periodly.  They took some dashing parts of historic dress
but mixed them with what would still be considered dashing and sexy to the
modern audience.

   As a historian and working actor I really think a good actor can over
ride these perceptions.  Many actors how ever wont even try! This is part of
the reason that often the extras (sorry their called background actors now)
are often more historically accurate than the main characters! They just
don't have the clout to make demands regarding costume, stars do! Jose
Ferrer's Cyrano is a good example of this phenomena.  That's what I meant by
actor's obstinence!  Someone mentioned in with the "I won't wear yellow"
analogy.  Hollywood and History talks a bit about this.

Cheers,
Ron

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Angela Kessler
> Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2004 1:46 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] New BBC Costume Drama
>
>
>
> --- Ron Carnegie <r.carnegie@verizon.net> wrote:
> > 	I can
> > believe that sometimes history gets in the way of a
> > good story (look at
> > Hidalgo) but rarely does costume get in the way.
> > (well maybe physically! ;)
>
> Unfortunately, I think it can.  Costume (on screen or
> in real life) is a way of communicating something
> about the person's character to the viewer.  And
> associations change, as the fashions we are used to
> seeing change.  A character wearing clothing that in
> its own time might have said "beautiful young lady" or
> "respectable businessman" might now say to most people
> "slightly deformed woman" or "eccentric".
>
> I don't like it either, but even for the people who
> want to, changing the public's perceptions is
> necessarily a lengthy process, because it involves
> changing a perception of "normal."  And we have quite
> a few decades of tradition in portraying historic
> costume on stage/screen that can't just be erased.
>
> -Angela
>
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I have been very happy with Greenberg and Hammer:
http://www.greenberg-hammer.com, they are obviously in the US...wasn't sure
if that was okay..

Sg



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Subject: [h-cost] Pleating 18th. c.  petticoats, help, please!
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Hi all,

Help!

Right, I'm at the point of pleating the petticoat which goes under my
sack, and I'm faced with pleating around 160 inches into 28. I know
I'm supposed to slant the pleats slightly upwards towards the pocket
gap of the hoops, to try to stop them slithering off, but at the
moment I'm more concerned with how to get this much material smoothly
pleated at the waistline. Preferably  without double pleats, because
the sack pleats have to go over this as well, without, I hope, making
too much bulk.  Does anyone have a pet solution to this? Or even a
wild one?

thanks and best wishes
Stevie

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Mar 11 16:03:21 2004
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE: Bog dress & American colonies (OT)
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I would say that the oldest European settlement would have been the Cymri
which would have dated around 950 A.D. :)

There is a new theory that the Phoenicians were in "Americas" before Madoc.
In that some archeologist believe that King Solomon's gold mines were
located in Haiti and not Africa.
Read a long article on how the length of time from Haiti to Jerusalem
matched the records, the finding of old gold mines and other thing to prove
their theory.

Arian

-----Original Message-----
-E
(Hey, everyone's got a button, right? Now, someone bring up Prince Madoc and
the "who got there first" argument will be complete! =} )


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Subject: [h-cost] Legend of the black pearls
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Has anyone heard of or seen documentation for the
legends concerning the black pearls of Eleonora de
Toledo that eventually came to be owned by Mary Queen
of Scots?

=====
Catalina
Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit


	
	
		
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Mar 11 16:12:01 2004
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Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 20:48:36 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] button holes
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Finishing costumes on the coach/train/plane is standard practice among 
people I know.  Of course, they're not doing the sort of beautiful and 
precise work you do.  But there was one occasion where three people made 
sure they got seats together on the plane so they could each do a 
section of the hem on one dress, to get it finished.

Jean


Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote
>
>Hi the list.
>I have just assembled my waistcoat. But i still have to make the 
>buttonholes, 11 in all.
>As i have a lot of other things to do, pack my things, iron shirt and 
>so on, could you please answer this silly question.
>I baught a train ticket for 1.st class, do you think i could use the 
>time in the train to sew the buttonholes? Nearly 6 hours of drive to 
>Stockholm?
>
>Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New BBC Costume Drama
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Having read some of the responses to this, I find I have two approaches. 
I don't have a problem with historical drama, ie fiction, being done in 
all sorts of costume - modern or 20s or Victorian or futuristic/fantasy, 
whatever the director thinks will suit the story being told.  But if 
you're doing it to, in some way, teach history, it's more important that 
the costume should be right.  One of the standards that I saw once for 
university history courses is that they should foster a sense of "the 
otherness of the past" - in other words, you can't understand people's 
behaviour unless you take account of the culture and ethics and so on of 
their time, and the fact that it was different from ours.  In a TV 
production, costume helps to do that, so you can't do it in modern 
dress, and the costuming and setting has to be good enough that viewers 
can feel that they are watching people from the past, and not just 
modern people who are just like us really, but dressed funny.

I hope I make some sense!

Jean


Freyalyn Close-Hainsworth <lynn@close-hainsworth.fslife.co.uk> wrote
>Some people may already have heard of 'Gunpowder, Treason and Plot', a 
>new BBC2 costume drama starting this weekend, part one on the life of 
>Mary Queen of Scots and the second on the life of her son.  I'm sure 
>this will be shown in the US at some point soon.
>However, I read a quote from the producer and thought it worth 
>reproducing here for discussion:
>"I'm very interested in this term 'costume drama' because what it does 
>is put costume before drama - quite literally - and you do feel they're 
>more about the bloody costumes than the drama.  Actually the period 
>element should be secondary to the fact that you're trying to tell an 
>interesting story.  The whole point about going back in history is to 
>find the universal theme that has relevance today.
>"The Gunpowder Plot is the original terrorist story involving 
>explosives. You've got to ask yourself what parallels Catholics trying 
>to blow up Parliament has with Islamic fundamentalists trying to blow 
>up the Pentagon today.  And then ask yourself whether that's more 
>worthwhile than the idea of most costume drama, which is characters 
>dressed up like Quality Street prancing around on the screen"
>It doesn't sound to me like he's got much respect for his subject 
>matter. Well, should costume drama be done to tell the stories of the 
>people it represents, or is it solely valuable to comment on today's 
>society?
>Discuss....
>Freyalyn (now running for cover)
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE: American colonies (OT)
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 15:12:15 -0600
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There are many cities and towns today in N. Amer.  that were once sites of
Native American Indian cities.

Arian

-----Original Message-----

StAugustine is I believe the oldest permanently lived in European city in
North America. I was going to say just oldest city, but by that defintition
I suspect Chicago or Mexico City will be found to older.  Maybe plenty of
others.  A lot of these European settlers built their cities atop already
existing cities or villages. There were also settlements in the southwest
and even here in the Tidewater Virginia (not successful).

  By the bye, we have records not only of the arrival date of that third
ship (though I am not sure how it was determined which was third) but also
who was on that voyage as sailors and as settlers.  I think later voyages
would be more difficult, but the first voyage is very well documented.  I
wonder if your source meant third voyage...  Easy enough to find out though,
just match your ancestor to the list!  (There is by the way a Jamestown
Society which I believe is similar to the Daughter of the Revolution or
Confederacy or so on).  That group tracks for many Jamestown ancestors and
for a far larger period than just the original voyage.  These people could
no doubt help you.

   Now there IS a habit of biasing history in a strange hierarchy in
America.  New England first, than British, and then European.

Cheers,
Ron

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of E House
> Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2004 12:04 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Bog dress & American colonies (OT)
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Nancy Kiel" <nancy_kiel@hotmail.com>
>
> > I must point out that the first permanent English settlement in the New
> > World was JAMESTOWN, not Plymouth.  Jamestown was founded in
> 1607 (I work
> > there, so I know).  The Pilgrims just had better press.
>
>
> ...And of course, there are the Spanish settlements, which
> predate Jamestown by quite a bit. (I had an ancestor on the 3rd
> boat to Jamestown, by the way, and have been having trouble
> tracking down exactly what date that would have been--do you know?)
>
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Mar 11 16:16:02 2004
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Subject: [h-cost] medieval button closure
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Thanks Bridgette and Robin!  I have seen paintings with the sleeves 
laced by inner rings, but I really like the look of buttons too. I am 
making the buttons myself, so maybe I'll strive for the tiny "pea-size" 
commonly described in my research, so my button holes will be 
correspondingly small. It just would have been quicker to use the 
commercial buttons I have on hand and braid a loop edging... (my sleeve 
openings go all the way over the elbow) If I do turn up documentation 
later, I promise to post!
-Lisa

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Mar 11 16:21:52 2004
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robin wrote: 
I've heard one person try to support the use of loops by pointing out that 
some manuscript artists show buttons as lying on the closure line rather 
than to the side of it. However, in the artwork in question, the images 
tend to be tiny and not terribly detailed, with the buttons only a series 
of dots painted along a single line, and I wouldn't put a lot of stock in 
their precision. 


I'd never considered loops before, and don't see evidence either, however, if you make your button holes so they are at right angles to the sleeve edge (horizontal, not vertical) and very close to the edge, (not a great deal of fabric between the button hole end, and the sleeve edge-50mm or less) the buttons do appear to stradle the closing line after they are buttoned.  This position is assisted by the fact that the buttons used during the period have shanks.  

For hand stitched buttons, I use a first use a machine to make the button outline and then hand stitch over it.  

Lisa Sinervo
 
             
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From: "Ron Carnegie" <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE: American colonies (OT)
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 16:22:22 -0500
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I thought I just said that!

Ron

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of otsisto
> Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2004 4:12 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE: American colonies (OT)
>
>
> There are many cities and towns today in N. Amer.  that were once sites of
> Native American Indian cities.
>
> Arian
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> StAugustine is I believe the oldest permanently lived in European city in
> North America. I was going to say just oldest city, but by that
> defintition
> I suspect Chicago or Mexico City will be found to older.  Maybe plenty of
> others.  A lot of these European settlers built their cities atop already
> existing cities or villages. There were also settlements in the southwest
> and even here in the Tidewater Virginia (not successful).
>
>

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kim baird wrote:
> A lot of garb snarking going on here!

To my mind, a professional costumer is on an entirely different level of 
things than the average attendee at a historically-based event.  So it's 
not snarking, any more than asking for financial information on a 
political candidate is being nosy.  Different situation, different 
standards.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

 From LoTR, the movie EE:
Legolas: Lembas! One bite will fill a man's stomach!
Pippin, to Merry: How many did *you* eat?
Merry, whimpering: ... four... (belch)
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] New BBC Costume Drama
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 15:32:30 -0600
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Though it may have changed since I was in Theatre costuming, there wasn't
much emphasis made on authentic for historical costumes. It was sort of
gleaned over.
I have noticed that "historical" and sometimes even fictional movies are
becoming more and more "authentic" "historical looking" in their costumes.

De


-----Original Message-----
lynn@close-hainsworth.fslife.co.uk writes:
Actually the period element should be secondary to the fact that you're
trying to tell an interesting story.

                   *
This comment sticks right up under my skin for this reason:  So many of the
HISTORICAL dramas that I've seen, both film and TV, have such utterly
godawful
thrown-together anachronistic costuming, that I CAN'T concentrate on the
story.  The complete disregard shown to the costumes makes me laugh, roll my
eyes
or change the channel, because it ticks me off.  They pay scrupulous
attention
to the plot, or the dialogue, or the sets, or the props, or the
cinematography, or the casting; but then they throw everyone in some
schoolchild's vision of
clothing.

Perhaps if producers like this started showing some respect for the very
crucial element of costuming, it would show some back.  But as long as
they're
going to act like it doesn't matter what the characters wear ... well, tough
tacos, big guy.  If I'm watching a movie where every element is so
masterfully put
together that nothing jumps out at me or rips me out of the time and place,
then the costumes (while certainly enjoyable) are less likely to be a big
issue
for me.

-Tiff
"I have the right to remain silent ... I just don't have the ability."
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From: "Ron Carnegie" <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE:  American colonies (OT)
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 16:37:50 -0500
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  Yes there is also "evidence" for the chinese, the Egyptians, and space
aliens.  Frankly most of these claims are a little weak.  Of course the
Vikings and inland used to be considered myth so who knows.  I am surprised
that almost no mention is made of a group of Europeans who were known with
out scanty or made up evidence to have been here.  That would be the
Portuguese fisherman who have been fishing cod of the grand banks since at
least the 15th century!  I will gladly debate any of the pre-Viking
discoverers any of you would like, but not here on this list.

  But what has any of this too do with costume?  The real question is what
did they wear while visiting or not visiting north America?!


> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of otsisto
> Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2004 4:02 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE: Bog dress & American colonies (OT)
>
>
> I would say that the oldest European settlement would have been the Cymri
> which would have dated around 950 A.D. :)
>
> There is a new theory that the Phoenicians were in "Americas"
> before Madoc.
> In that some archeologist believe that King Solomon's gold mines were
> located in Haiti and not Africa.
> Read a long article on how the length of time from Haiti to Jerusalem
> matched the records, the finding of old gold mines and other
> thing to prove
> their theory.
>
> Arian
>
> -----Original Message-----
> -E
> (Hey, everyone's got a button, right? Now, someone bring up
> Prince Madoc and
> the "who got there first" argument will be complete! =} )
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE: American colonies (OT)
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 15:42:43 -0600
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You had a "maybe" in front. I was just making it a definite "there are"

De
-----Original Message-----
I thought I just said that!

Ron

> -----Original Message-----
> There are many cities and towns today in N. Amer.  that were once sites of
> Native American Indian cities.
>
> Arian
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Maybe plenty of
> others.  A lot of these European settlers built their cities atop already
> existing cities or villages. There were also settlements in the southwest
> and even here in the Tidewater Virginia (not successful).
>
>

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20040311210611.39626.qmail@web14003.mail.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Legend of the black pearls
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 16:47:35 -0500
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Those were the "cursed" Medici pearls given to Mary by Catherine. IIRC they
eventually wound up with Queen Victoria who was sued by Hanover for their
return (technically they did belong in Hanover) and are worn now by HRH
Elizabeth II in pieces. Marie Antoinette also wore them supposedly.



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Catalina Saravia Quicedo" <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2004 4:06 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Legend of the black pearls


> Has anyone heard of or seen documentation for the
> legends concerning the black pearls of Eleonora de
> Toledo that eventually came to be owned by Mary Queen
> of Scots?
>
> =====
> Catalina
> Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit
>
>
>
>
>
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Mar 11 17:04:00 2004
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE:  American colonies (OT)
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 16:03:01 -0600
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Though this thread is listed as off topic, the small connection to
costume/clothing is the possible influence of European garments on the
natives of the American continents and visa versa. The further back the
"colony" the stronger possibilty of impact.
As for the Phonecians, They seem to be all over the world and this was in
comment to the off topic thread.

De


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Ron Carnegie
Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2004 3:38 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE: American colonies (OT)




  Yes there is also "evidence" for the chinese, the Egyptians, and space
aliens.  Frankly most of these claims are a little weak.  Of course the
Vikings and inland used to be considered myth so who knows.  I am surprised
that almost no mention is made of a group of Europeans who were known with
out scanty or made up evidence to have been here.  That would be the
Portuguese fisherman who have been fishing cod of the grand banks since at
least the 15th century!  I will gladly debate any of the pre-Viking
discoverers any of you would like, but not here on this list.

  But what has any of this too do with costume?  The real question is what
did they wear while visiting or not visiting north America?!


> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of otsisto
> Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2004 4:02 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE: Bog dress & American colonies (OT)
>
>
> I would say that the oldest European settlement would have been the Cymri
> which would have dated around 950 A.D. :)
>
> There is a new theory that the Phoenicians were in "Americas"
> before Madoc.
> In that some archeologist believe that King Solomon's gold mines were
> located in Haiti and not Africa.
> Read a long article on how the length of time from Haiti to Jerusalem
> matched the records, the finding of old gold mines and other
> thing to prove
> their theory.
>
> Arian
>
> -----Original Message-----
> -E
> (Hey, everyone's got a button, right? Now, someone bring up
> Prince Madoc and
> the "who got there first" argument will be complete! =} )
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Greenland/Colonies (was Bog Dress) 
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>From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
>>None of this of course, alters the Robin's point that Greenland was an
>>established European colony for a minimum of 425 years (985-1410) and
>>probably a few years longer than that.  425 years before now was 1579.
>Thanks, Marc. I didn't mean to start an argument about which settlement in
>the Americas was oldest....

I wasn't really looking for one either, I was just trying to be supportive 
:)

>...been here for a very long time and are well established"). That is: the
>Greenland colonies lasted about 400 years before they failed, and they
>apparently did reasonably well for most of that time, or they'd have gone
>the way of Roanoake long before then.

Considering how thin the margin of survival was thought to be, absolutely.

Marc

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Shoemakers (was Bog dress & American colonies) 
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From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
>>They didn't happen to discuss early Spanish shoemakers did they? (just
>>grasping at straws).
>No, but I assume you're familiar with the fortalezas in the Cartagena/Santa 
> >Marta area?

Only as pictures.

>When I toured them (~20 years ago) they did have a good many artifacts; I 
> >just can't remember any details of their displays, although it has stuck 
>in my >mind that some pre-dated the forts themselves. Unfortunately, the 
>older >artifacts might have just been, ykno, old cannon-balls and the like, 
>but if you >haven't yet, you may want to write them for information.

That's an idea.  Thanks.

I'm not even concerned about the artifacts really at this point - I'm just 
interested in finding out who some of the earliest shoemakers were in the 
New
World, or even if that's possible.  (Yeh, it's a weird hobby, but it keeps 
me off the streets, and out of the pool halls).

>Places worth trying in Santa Marta and Cartagena are San Felipe de Barajas, 
> >San Fernando, and San Jose de Bocachica. The Basílical Menor (a cathedral 
> >begun in the 1530s, if I remember right) has certain relics and other 
> >historical material.  I've visited each, but honestly I can't remember 
>what was >where, except that (sadly) one was having serious flooding 
>problems which >destroyed some of the artifacts.

Happens here too.

>Oh! And I know nothing about it, but in Cartagena there's a place called 
>Monumento a los Zapatos Viejos (old shoes)!

Really?  Interesting.

>I might be able to help a bit with native shoemaking, but that's probably 
>no >use to you.

It's interesting, perhaps later.

>You know those moments when you really feel like you're connecting with 
> >history? Yeah, well, they're not all good.

I sympathize completely.

> > Isn't the village Punta Villa Rica still in existance?
>Yes, but my understanding is that it wasn't continuously inhabited, as the 
> >original Vera Cruz inhabitants all moved--I could be wrong, though.

That's all right, neither was Jamestown :)

Marc

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In a message dated 3/11/2004 1:53:59 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
ivyharpdotcom@yahoo.com writes:

> A character wearing clothing that in
> its own time might have said "beautiful young lady" or
> "respectable businessman" might now say to most people
> "slightly deformed woman" or "eccentric".
> 
> 

This is the thing. The character and style and art direction are what 
determine what the costumes should be. Historical accuracy does not always work. But 
it's a good bet that with actual historic events and people, a good place to 
START is what one can find out about what really was there.

Still, costumes must communicate. This is by symbolism mainly. You may put an 
1840s prostitute in what one actually wore but it may not come across to the 
audience that way. You need something the modern person can "read". This can 
be a cliche like red with black lace. But that by no means says "Whore" in a 
purely accurate context. It's a modern cliche. [Just cut the thing correctly, 
OK?] You can also put her in regular clothes but somehow revealing...a little 
too off the shoulder...bodice a little too tight. Or you can come from it in an 
ironic way. The most babydoll, puritanical dress...with maybe too much 
makeup...and of course the actress acting like a tart. That may be what's called for.

All this can be done with respect for the period.

All this whore talk comes from having just watched "The French Lt.'s Woman" A 
well costumed show. The fiance, who is in the height of fashion, is very late 
1860s...like the instant before bustle. But her maid is positively early to 
mid 1850s. Merrill Streep is mid 1860s. Now mind you not everyone would be 
fashionable, [I can easily believe Streep's stuff] but the servants fully over 10 
years off? Then at the end Streep is a Pre-Raphaelite. [also believable]. 
Maybe not perfectly accurate but certainly well informed.
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From: "kim baird" <kbaird@cableone.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1970s hairdos and future fashion
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 06:40:31 -0600
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Stevie--

I used to love that show! But not the costumes.

Take a look at most old movies, you will find the same thing--even if
they get the period costumes almost correct, the hair is still from the
time the movie was made.

Kim

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Stevie Gamble
Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 10:04 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] 1970s hairdos and future fashion

Hi all,

I spent the weekend at a SF convention which had an exhibition of
costumes from a late 70's early 80's SF television show called
'Blake's Seven', as well as most of the actors. It was fascinating to
note that the designers had obviously made conscientious efforts to
create some sort of 'future fashion', heavily on the sexy side, but
the hair styles, men and womens, were resolutely and unmistakeably
70's. The only exception was the character Servalan, played by
Jacqueline Pierce, who had then, and has today, an extremely short
haircut which set a fashion then, and still looks amazingly good.
Actually, all the actors seem to still have the same hairstyles today,
give or take a little thinning on the top...

best wishes
Stevie

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Mar 11 21:06:59 2004
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Inventories of Henry VIII
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Sorry for the cross post but I spotted a book on the David Brown Book
Company site that may be of interest.
The Inventory of King Henry VIII: Volume I, The Transcript
edited by David Starkey, transcribed by Philip Ward and indexed by Alasdair
Hawkyard
This vast catalogue of the possessions of the Henry VIII on his death in
1547 contains c.18,000 entries; these range from the Crown jewels to
bandages for the kings ulcerated leg! The Inventory provides a huge amount
of information for historians on the material success of Henry and his
forebears, as well as being of practical help in identifying surviving
objects as the king's or otherwise. The transcript is accompanied by a
historical ...
Hardback. US$148.00

I got my copy back in January from Robin Netherton and I am Very happy.
This is an inventory of everything that Henry VIII owned at the time of his
death, from musical instruments to eye-glasses (He had several pairs because
he kept taking them off and losing them :-)  I realize it is still a spendy
resource for most people, but ...

http://www.oxbowbooks.com/browse.cfm/CatID/436/O/D/StartRow/11


Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey
"Those who can make you believe absurdities can make you commit atrocities."
Voltaire


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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New BBC Costume Drama
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 21:59:35 -0500
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"You can't understand peoples behavior"...In the early '80s, I was doing a
role in a play (title escapes me), of the 1950s,the character was a victim
of her 'up tightness',so I made sure that my underwear included a playtex
girdle and maidenform bra ("I dreamt I was...In my Maidenform bra") under
the costumes.  One of the co-eds was blown away with the 'ordeal' of the
real underpinnings that I was using.She would show up early in the
dressingroom just to chat me up about what it was like to be/ play the part
of a woman from that time period.  For me, the unders were crucial to
getting close to the mind of the character who never had a boob or bun out
of place from the idealized norm of a 'lady of that time period. This was a
modern woman who had never known the 'armor women were supposed to put up
with before we "burned the bra". I had difficulties in this time period when
costuming students, in getting them to wear any underwear under their
costumes Period! The concept that how you are put together might affect the
walking, sitting, running...never mind the Mind of their stage persona was
completely foreign.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jean Waddie" <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2004 4:05 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New BBC Costume Drama


> Having read some of the responses to this, I find I have two approaches.
> I don't have a problem with historical drama, ie fiction, being done in
> all sorts of costume - modern or 20s or Victorian or futuristic/fantasy,
> whatever the director thinks will suit the story being told.  But if
> you're doing it to, in some way, teach history, it's more important that
> the costume should be right.  One of the standards that I saw once for
> university history courses is that they should foster a sense of "the
> otherness of the past" - in other words, you can't understand people's
> behaviour unless you take account of the culture and ethics and so on of
> their time, and the fact that it was different from ours.  In a TV
> production, costume helps to do that, so you can't do it in modern
> dress, and the costuming and setting has to be good enough that viewers
> can feel that they are watching people from the past, and not just
> modern people who are just like us really, but dressed funny.
>
> I hope I make some sense!
>
> Jean
>
>
> Freyalyn Close-Hainsworth <lynn@close-hainsworth.fslife.co.uk> wrote
> >Some people may already have heard of 'Gunpowder, Treason and Plot', a
> >new BBC2 costume drama starting this weekend, part one on the life of
> >Mary Queen of Scots and the second on the life of her son.  I'm sure
> >this will be shown in the US at some point soon.
> >However, I read a quote from the producer and thought it worth
> >reproducing here for discussion:
> >"I'm very interested in this term 'costume drama' because what it does
> >is put costume before drama - quite literally - and you do feel they're
> >more about the bloody costumes than the drama.  Actually the period
> >element should be secondary to the fact that you're trying to tell an
> >interesting story.  The whole point about going back in history is to
> >find the universal theme that has relevance today.
> >"The Gunpowder Plot is the original terrorist story involving
> >explosives. You've got to ask yourself what parallels Catholics trying
> >to blow up Parliament has with Islamic fundamentalists trying to blow
> >up the Pentagon today.  And then ask yourself whether that's more
> >worthwhile than the idea of most costume drama, which is characters
> >dressed up like Quality Street prancing around on the screen"
> >It doesn't sound to me like he's got much respect for his subject
> >matter. Well, should costume drama be done to tell the stories of the
> >people it represents, or is it solely valuable to comment on today's
> >society?
> >Discuss....
> >Freyalyn (now running for cover)
> >Freeserve AnyTime - HALF PRICE for the first 3 months - Save £7.50 a
month
> >www.freeserve.com/anytime
> >_______________________________________________
> >h-costume mailing list
> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> -- 
> Jean Waddie
> _______________________________________________
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>


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> Finishing costumes on the coach/train/plane is standard practice among
> people I know.  Of course, they're not doing the sort of beautiful and
> precise work you do.  But there was one occasion where three people
> made sure they got seats together on the plane so they could each do a
> section of the hem on one dress, to get it finished.

That must have been before 9/11/01. Since then you can't have needles 
on the planes. (This is irksome and seems unnecessary considering 
some of the things they *do* allow on planes such as ball point pens 
and pencils. Those may be common, but they can be far more dangerous 
than any sewing needle.)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Mar 11 22:24:55 2004
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> Sorry for the cross post but I spotted a book on the David Brown Book
> Company site that may be of interest. The Inventory of King Henry
> VIII: Volume I, The Transcript edited by David Starkey, transcribed by
> Philip Ward and indexed by Alasdair Hawkyard This vast catalogue of
> the possessions of the Henry VIII on his death in 1547 contains
> c.18,000 entries; these range from the Crown jewels to bandages for
> the kings ulcerated leg! The Inventory provides a huge amount of
> information for historians on the material success of Henry and his
> forebears, as well as being of practical help in identifying surviving
> objects as the king's or otherwise. The transcript is accompanied by a
> historical ... Hardback. US$148.00

This is a wonderful book. I just wish that they had been able to do 
the second and third volumes.

Janet Arnold was supposedly in charge of the costuming section for 
those. But it was cancelled before she had a chance to die. It would 
have been particularly good if it could have had her chapter. 

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] medieval button closures
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 23:04:00 -0500
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On Thursday 11 March 2004 04:20 pm, Lisa Sinervo wrote:
[snip]
> I'd never considered loops before, and don't see evidence either, however,
> if you make your button holes so they are at right angles to the sleeve
> edge (horizontal, not vertical) and very close to the edge, (not a great
> deal of fabric between the button hole end, and the sleeve edge-50mm or
> less) the buttons do appear to stradle the closing line after they are
> buttoned.  This position is assisted by the fact that the buttons used
> during the period have shanks.

As well as by the fact that surviving specimens show that the buttons 
themselves are stitched onto the edge of the garment (and not about 1/2 inch 
from the edge the way we do now).

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Anything's within walking distance if you have the time." -Steven Wright
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] medieval button closures
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On Thu, 11 Mar 2004, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:

> As well as by the fact that surviving specimens show that the buttons
> themselves are stitched onto the edge of the garment (and not about
> 1/2 inch from the edge the way we do now).

Which, BTW, makes for a much smoother sleeve than putting the buttons in
the modern position. The latter leaves a flap on the button side that has
to tuck under the buttonhole side, but because the edge is curved, the
tucked-under part is slightly larger than the surface it has to fit under,
so it tends to bunch up.

--Robin

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From: "Helen  Pinto" <hpinto@mindspring.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Was Buttonholes, now What is banned on airplanes
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Kat wrote:
That must have been before 9/11/01. Since then you can't have needles
> on the planes.

If you go to the TSA website page at the URL below, it will give you a PDF
list of banned items.  Knitting needles and crochet hooks are permitted;
sewing needles aren't even mentioned.  Small blunt scissors are also
permitted.
Hope this helps,
                 -Helen/Aidan

http://www.tsa.gov/public/display?theme=177


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New BBC Costume Drama
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Ron, 
I'm still here. When I saw Rob Roy, I ran an award-winning living history 
group that  specialized in 18th century Scots Highlanders. Needless to say, that 
when we as a costumed group went to see the movie, we nitpicked the heck out 
of it. I posted a long critique of the costumes to this list. 

Interestingly enough, the English and lowland clothing was very good, and 
Argyll's costumes were very well done. The costumes only distracted from the film 
because we knew a lot about the time period. I'm sure that they didn't for 
99% of the viewers.

Kathleen Norvell
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I understand that the actresses in "Mona Lisa Smile" had some difficulty 
getting used to early 1950s undergarments. I heard an interview with one of them 
(Kirsten Dunst, I believe) who was surprised that proper ladies wore girdles 
all the time. While geeting used to wearing girdles and merry widows is nothing 
like getting used to wearing stays and panniers, I was amused by the concept. 
At least the movie costumers were trying to get it right.

Kathleen Norvell
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Greetings--

> Is there anyone on this list in the Toronto area? I will be running out of
> buckram very soon and need to find out where I can go (or send someone) to
> get a fresh supply. I moved from western Canada this past summer, and I am
> still trying to find suppliers to keep me in 'stuff' for my evil, fun,
> sewing addiction.  :-) Anything North of Toronto would be helpful too, as
> I'm living in Sudbury. Mail order would be fine as well.

I'm in Toronto.  I'm guessing MacDonald Faber would be your best bet.
Here's their web page (looks like a work in progress, but does tell how you
can get hold of them....)  http://www.macdonaldfaber.com/    .  I have
purchased buckram from them in the past, although it's been a few years, so
even though it's not on their list of products, I think you'll still be able
to get it.

I also see Designer Fabric Outlet (aka the Orange Bag Store) now has a web
page.  They're worth checking if MacFabe doesn't carry something, although
their focus is on fabric and trim:
http://www.designerfabrics.to/aboutus.html .

> I'm also looking for Wool batt for felt making.
Ask MacFabe about this.  If they don't have it, I know a couple of Toronto
wool stores that might carry it.

Susan

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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Was Buttonholes, now What is banned on airplanes
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 23:46:27 -0800
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Kat,

	I flew to Germany and Pennsic last summer and was sewing both trips.  No
problem with a package of needles, or the little children's round nosed
scissors I took along.
	I flew to Reno and back last week (which is why I have this wretched cold
now) with my little sewing kit consisting of needles, thread, scissors (1"
long, round tips) and had no problems.

Regina Romsey

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Helen Pinto
> Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2004 8:43 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] Was Buttonholes, now What is banned on airplanes
>
>
> Kat wrote:
> That must have been before 9/11/01. Since then you can't have needles
> > on the planes.
>
> If you go to the TSA website page at the URL below, it will give you a PDF
> list of banned items.  Knitting needles and crochet hooks are permitted;
> sewing needles aren't even mentioned.  Small blunt scissors are also
> permitted.
> Hope this helps,
>                  -Helen/Aidan
>
> http://www.tsa.gov/public/display?theme=177
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late French medieval outfit... seeking advice
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Thanks Catalina and Cynthia for your kind answers, these are what I was
looking for !

----- Original Message -----
From: "Catalina Saravia Quicedo" <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>

> The clothing pictured on Anne de Brtagne, or Anne of
> Britanny are what is considered transition style. This
> is slightly before the style of French hood well known
> to be worn by Ann Boleyn.
> http://www.ac-grenoble.fr/argouges/PEDAGOGI/Costume/Transition.htm
>
> This appears to be a soft hood of velvet or black
> damask similar in shape to the later rigid hood. I am
> no expert in this area.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Cynthia Virtue" <cvirtue+dated+1094500811.476edc@thibault.org>

> I'd vote for it being symbolic only, because engineering such a thing
> would require it fitting over the structure of the hood in weird ways
> from a 3-d perspective.

> > http://www.costumes.org/HISTORY/greatwomen/10340_06.jpg
>
> Looks like an elaboration based on the first link you gave us -- the
> detailing on the hood lappets is very similar.  I wouldn't trust it.

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Appin1@aol.com wrote:

> I understand that the actresses in "Mona Lisa Smile" had some difficulty 
> getting used to early 1950s undergarments. I heard an interview with one of them 
> (Kirsten Dunst, I believe) who was surprised that proper ladies wore girdles 
> all the time. While geeting used to wearing girdles and merry widows is nothing 
> like getting used to wearing stays and panniers, I was amused by the concept. 
> At least the movie costumers were trying to get it right.

Which is, apparently, more than the rest of the film could manage.  I'm 
an 80s Wellesley graduate and it's been very interesting to read 
point-by-point refutations of the things the movie said were widespread 
  for the 50s.

I wore a girdle once, for my high school graduation.  I'd much rather 
wear my badly-fitted corset, and I understand a well-fitted one isn't 
any problem.  What we'll do to our bodies....

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

 From LoTR, the movie EE:
Legolas: Lembas! One bite will fill a man's stomach!
Pippin, to Merry: How many did *you* eat?
Merry, whimpering: ... four... (belch)
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] medieval button closures
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 07:11:03 -0500
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On Friday 12 March 2004 01:19 am, Robin Netherton wrote:
> On Thu, 11 Mar 2004, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
> > As well as by the fact that surviving specimens show that the buttons
> > themselves are stitched onto the edge of the garment (and not about
> > 1/2 inch from the edge the way we do now).
>
> Which, BTW, makes for a much smoother sleeve than putting the buttons in
> the modern position. The latter leaves a flap on the button side that has
> to tuck under the buttonhole side, but because the edge is curved, the
> tucked-under part is slightly larger than the surface it has to fit under,
> so it tends to bunch up.

I've yet to try making a buttoned sleeve using the period technique, but I'll 
take your word for it. 

Maybe the bunching problem is why we don't see a lot of sleeves that button 
most of the way up the arm today, except on some bridal wear.  Does anyone 
know if bridal wear uses the period method, or does bridal couture deal with 
this problem some other way?


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Anything's within walking distance if you have the time." -Steven Wright
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] medieval button closures
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On Fri, 12 Mar 2004, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:

> Maybe the bunching problem is why we don't see a lot of sleeves that
> button most of the way up the arm today, except on some bridal wear.  
> Does anyone know if bridal wear uses the period method, or does bridal
> couture deal with this problem some other way?

Bridal sleeves (and bodice backs) often button using a row of elastic
loops that's sold for that purpose. (Bridal fabric departments also sell
little cloth satin buttons to go with these.) You can buy the loops in the
standard white and ivory and often in black (for evening gowns), and I've
seen them in other colors as well. I've found them very annoying to work
with; they seem to assume there's no tension or stress in the garment. And
in fact, if there is stress (as in a bodice, there are likely to be hooks
and eyes in crucial spots, with the buttons/loops merely holding the edges
together in a line.

Often sleeves fastened this way will gap slightly, but showing a little
skin along the closure on the arm can be considered a design feature, just
as showing skin through lace would be.

IME, bridal sleeves often button just along a forearm, on a straight line,
and are not shaped like a medieval sleeve that follows the curve of the
forearm and buttons up past the elbow.

--Robin

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Subject: bridal buttons was Re: [h-cost] medieval button closures
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Robin wrote:
>
> Bridal sleeves (and bodice backs) often button using a row of elastic
> loops that's sold for that purpose. (Bridal fabric departments also sell
> little cloth satin buttons to go with these.) You can buy the loops in the
> standard white and ivory and often in black (for evening gowns), and I've
> seen them in other colors as well. I've found them very annoying to work
> with; they seem to assume there's no tension or stress in the garment. And
> in fact, if there is stress (as in a bodice, there are likely to be hooks
> and eyes in crucial spots, with the buttons/loops merely holding the edges
> together in a line.
>
Some businesses offer button making services, where you send them a piece of
fabric and they make up the buttons for you so they match your gown.  Not a
bad idea for some period gowns, although of course, not handmade .  The
hardware is a bit sturdier than the button making kits one can get at a
standard fabric store.

Lisa Sinervo


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Shoemakers (was Bog dress & American colonies) 
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 10:32:24 -0600
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Marc Carlson" <marccarlson20@hotmail.com>

> That's an idea.  Thanks.
> I'm not even concerned about the artifacts really at this point - I'm just
> interested in finding out who some of the earliest shoemakers were in the
> New World, or even if that's possible.  (Yeh, it's a weird hobby, but it
> keeps me off the streets, and out of the pool halls).

Those forts and the cathedral would definitely be the best starting point in
South America, then. Cartagena, though younger, grew more rapidly than Santa
Marta; within a few years of establishment it would unquestionably have been
large enough to require a shoemaker (but probably a cobbler first? Perhaps
associated with the army). Considering the culture, the two places most
likely to keep that sort of records are the military and the church, and I'd
be surprised if they couldn't at least refer you to a good resource--perhaps
the 17th C monastery in Cartagena, which may have preserved earlier records
(hopefully, as the cathedral was damaged in the mid 18thC by a flood).

By the way, my memory deceived me earlier about the date the cathedral in
Santa Marta was built; it was actually built in 1529, but was not given the
title of cathedral till 1533.

Darn it, now I'm all interested in researching the first European women (of
whatever social standing) to appear in South America.

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>
>
>Robin Netherton wrote:
>  
>
>Which, BTW, makes for a much smoother sleeve than putting the buttons in
>the modern position. The latter leaves a flap on the button side that has to tuck under the buttonhole side, but because the edge is curved, the tucked-under part is slightly larger than the surface it has to fit under, so it tends to bunch up.
>  
>
>>Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
>
>Maybe the bunching problem is why we don't see a lot of sleeves that button most of the way up the arm today, except on some bridal wear.  Does anyone know if bridal wear uses the period method, or does bridal couture deal with this problem some other way?
>
My 14th c. sleeves are cut on the bias so the fabric has give at the 
elbows. I put the buttons on the very edge and take the button hole to 
within 1/8-3/16  inch from the edge, running them from wrist to abt 4" 
above the elbow. Even though the fabric is cut in a curve to go around 
the elbow (2 piece sleeve, buttons are on back of arm), they still 
form-fit the arm very tight and smooth, and have full bending 
capability. At some point I documented the use of a cord placed inside 
the fold of the seam allowance along the sleeve openings to strengthen 
the edge. Can't remember my source. Modern standards for dressmaking are 
different. My experience in bridal was that button loop tape was used.
-Lisa

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] medieval button closures
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Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
> 
> Maybe the bunching problem is why we don't see a lot of sleeves that button 
> most of the way up the arm today, except on some bridal wear.  Does anyone 
> know if bridal wear uses the period method, or does bridal couture deal with 
> this problem some other way?

The buttons on the back and sleeves of my dress were fakes. The back had 
a zipper under the button panel and the sleeves were just loose enough 
to slide over the hands, there was no opening at all.



Dawn



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Lisa VandenBerghe wrote:

>At some point I documented the use of a cord placed inside 
> the fold of the seam allowance along the sleeve openings to strengthen 
> the edge. Can't remember my source. 

That's a great idea for those of us who don't want to weave it into 
tablet woven edging like in the MoL book!

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

 From LoTR, the movie EE:
Legolas: Lembas! One bite will fill a man's stomach!
Pippin, to Merry: How many did *you* eat?
Merry, whimpering: ... four... (belch)
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Subject: [h-cost] LA museums --  a question
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Dear List,

I just found out that I will be going to LA the week of March 22, to
accompany my husband to a conference that will keep him busy all the days
without me.  What costume-related museum exhibits would you recommend I hit?

Pam Dotson
Everett, WA  USA


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] LA museums --  a question
From: Lynn Downward <LDownward@chori.org>
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I was in L.A. Feb 20-22. At the time the Los Angeles County Museum of Art
had an Erte display - not just Erte but many costumes by others in the
1920s, many from costumes from Ballet Russe. Lots of Erte drawings of
costumes, some with the costume next to them. Really a spectacular display -
about 4 rooms full. Unfortunately, there was no book, no poster, not even a
post card available from the show. And my friend with her wizard sensitive
digital camera was able to take pictures because we were on a special tour,
but by the time we got back to the SF Bay area, something has zapped the
camera and every picture she took had disappeared.

There was also a wonderful display (free) of costumes from movies up for
Oscars at the Fashion Institute of Design and Marketing (about a mile from
the fabric district). It's a tradition, but it was the first time I was able
to be in LA at the right time. I don't know if the display is still up; they
may have taken it off once the Oscars were awarded. FIDM has a great store
attached to it. There's designer fabrics, buttons, clothing overruns sold
for as low as $2 for a top. (None of the clothes fit me but they're the
presents I bring home for my 17 and  12 year old daughters.)

I hope both these exhibits are still available. You can check because both
FIDM and LACMA have websites.

Have a great trip!
LynnD


On 3/12/04 9:41 AM, "Pam and David" <someone@eskimo.com> wrote:

> Dear List,
> 
> I just found out that I will be going to LA the week of March 22, to
> accompany my husband to a conference that will keep him busy all the days
> without me.  What costume-related museum exhibits would you recommend I hit?
> 
> Pam Dotson
> Everett, WA  USA
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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I know, a bit off topic, but has anyone here ever ordered anything from 
a1 fabric? (www.a1fabric.com) Their prices look too good to be true for 
some things and I would hate to order something only to discover that I 
could get better quality at Joann's...

  Thanks!

Kate


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New BBC Costume Drama
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Now see I like a girdle. And wear it with a corset on occasion. A good
girdle is like a good corset. It must fit right to feel right. I've made
more than I care to tell as well. And if you have a correctly fitting one
with enough give you should have no problems and no jiggly parts.

B~
=============================
Now open!
http://kristalori.com
=============================
----- Original Message ----- 
>
> I wore a girdle once, for my high school graduation.  I'd much rather
> wear my badly-fitted corset, and I understand a well-fitted one isn't
> any problem.  What we'll do to our bodies....
>
> -- 
> Cynthia Virtue and/or
> Cynthia du Pré Argent
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New BBC Costume Drama
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> 
> And compare it with Shakespeare's plays, which can be set (and costumed)
> in any time or place and still work.

Have to emerge from Lurkers' Wood:
   Having directed a number of Shakespeare's plays, seen a LOT of
productions, and taught the texts at the college level, I have to qualify
the above statement.

   Shakespeare's plays HAVE BEEN set and costumed at just about every
conceivable period and place, including outer space. Some few of these
choices do in fact work, because they illuminate the text by inviting the
audience to see the story in a context that legitimately resembles the
original in terms of values, relationships, and hot-button issues. (recent
example on film: the Ian McKellen Richard III)
   Even more effective in this category are the stories based on Shakespeare
but set elsewhere, such as West Side Story, where the Shakespearean allusion
illuminates the period of the new piece rather than the other way around.
   I have seen a few Shakespeare productions done in what Peter Brook
suggested was really universal and timeless for modern audiences--i.e.,
plain skirts, shirts, trousers, etc, stuff so familiar to us that we don't
notice it at all. This is the "generic costume" approach, and it works well
with sets that are also more or less abstract. In those productions the
characters and texts and themes get pretty much all the attention.
   But I have seen a LOT of transplanted Shakespeare that is really
disconcerting. (Most recently on film: bicycles in the Midsummer forest? for
any particular reason???? ditto the satyrs....) Sometimes the discord
between costumes and language is hopelessly distracting. Sometimes it's the
discord between the culture inherent in the play and the culture
communicated by the clothing and set. Sometimes the distraction takes the
form of a non-stop mental commentary analyzing and evaluating the equations
being suggested.)
   In my own productions I have become a convert to the "period
approximation" approach to costuming. I try to give my costumes (yes, I
direct and do the costumes, both) an Elizabethan line; I try for colors and
fabrics that do not LOOK INappropriate to the period (costuming with an eye
to ensemble and another eye to budget means some compromises here). I don't
reach for scrupulous authenticity or precision as to historical moment
partly because that's simply not possible in the circumstances under which I
have to work, but primarily because I don't really want to draw the
audience's attention to a particular costume feature, or mislead as to a
character's intended identity--to quote Angela's message of yesterday,

 >"Costume (on screen or in real life) is a way of communicating something
>about the person's character to the viewer.  And associations change, as the
>fashions we are used to seeing change.  A character wearing clothing that in
>its own time might have said 'beautiful young lady' or 'respectable
>businessman' might now say to most people 'slightly deformed woman' or
>'eccentric'."

In other words, I try for costuming and setting that will complement,
enable, and enhance the text, the themes, and the characters but that will
not draw attention to itself. I want the audience to experience the play as
an integrated whole.
   My consort has observed that in his own experience, out-of-period
Shakespeare is LESS timeless, not more so, because it draws attention to the
new period in so many ways that are not germane to the play itself and that
sometimes make the text seem old-fashioned, strange, or quaint. On the other
hand, Shakespeare in late-Tudor/Elizabethan/Jacobean garb is, he says, TRULY
timeless because we are invited into a world that is fully itself and we can
lose ourselves in it. Leaving the theater is the time to say "Oh, my, you
know, in some ways I can almost see Ronald Reagan in Lear...."

   Well. What this boils down to is: the purist (or quasi-purist) in me says
NO, Shakespeare cannot be moved to just any time or place and still work.
And costume IS important for any drama. Would the director whose show
prompted this thread feel just as comfortable doing a tv version of "Hair"
but letting his actors wear clothing from the '40s? Or "Angels in America"
in colonial garb? If not, then he really DOES think costume accuracy counts,
and he ought to do the work it entails.

Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
and founder (as of last week) of the imaginary corporation Rant-of-the-Day
Inc.

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From: "Chiara" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <8d.58fc58f.2d82aa0b@aol.com> <405198DA.8030605@thibault.org>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New BBC Costume Drama
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 14:08:25 -0600
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I second that. No jiggly parts. Grandma raised me in a very rural south
Texas town where girdles were still in use through the late 70's even if I
wore hip huggers. It was her way of making sure I wore a shirt with them ...
loved Grandma, God rest her soul, sigh.

Chiara
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, March 12, 2004 12:56 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New BBC Costume Drama


: Now see I like a girdle. And wear it with a corset on occasion. A good
: girdle is like a good corset. It must fit right to feel right. I've made
: more than I care to tell as well. And if you have a correctly fitting one
: with enough give you should have no problems and no jiggly parts.
:
: B~
: =============================
: Now open!
: http://kristalori.com
: =============================
: ----- Original Message ----- 
: >
: > I wore a girdle once, for my high school graduation.  I'd much rather
: > wear my badly-fitted corset, and I understand a well-fitted one isn't
: > any problem.  What we'll do to our bodies....
: >
: > -- 
: > Cynthia Virtue and/or
: > Cynthia du Pré Argent
: _______________________________________________
: h-costume mailing list
: h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Mar 12 15:24:46 2004
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From: "kim baird" <kbaird@cableone.net>
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Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 14:24:18 -0600
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Subject: [h-cost] obscure French fabric
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This is a long shot, but maybe someone on this list can help me.

Was/is there a French firm making cotton prints named SOTEXI?

I've got a piece of cotton commemorative cloth from the Ivory Coast. It
features Pope John Paul II and a map (he visited Africa in 1980). The
paper sticker on one end says SOTEXI, and I'd like to establish where it
was printed.

Told you it was obscure! Thanks.

Kim

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Subject: [h-cost] Re:LA museums --  a question 
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> Both the Erte exhibit at LACMA and the Movie costume exhibit are still up 
> and will be until the first week of April.  


I second Lynne's opinion of the Erte--it was great!  Primarily costumes that 
belonged to Ganna Wolska, the opera singer of questionable ability, but some 
street and evening clothing by Erte's 1920's contemporaries, like Barbier, 
Lanvin, and a whole line of gorgeous, perfect Fortuny gowns.  But, alas, not even 
a postcard, as Lynne noted.

The FIDM exhibit is also really good this year--the LOTR costumes alone are 
worth the visit--just exquisite.  Even the armor, and I am sooooo not 
interested in armor.  (Interesting factoid from the acccompanying information sheet 
[which may or may not still be available]: all the chain mail is made from 
PVC--you'd never know it!)  Lots to see in the main gallery, and then the third 
floor gallery features old Hollywhood designers and their creations, like Adrian, 
Edith Head, Orry Kelly, etc.  And since FIDM is only a stone's throw from the 
garment district, you can be inspired and then go shopping!

Both exhibitions have teasers online:  Go to www.lacma.org and www.fidm.org

Pallas




http://www.lahacal.org/rendance/
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:LA museums --  a question 
From: Lynn Downward <LDownward@chori.org>
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Thanks, Pallas, for being more eloquent than I was earlier, especially about
Ms Wolska and her costumes. They showed how Russian style When going up to
the third floor exhibit windows (it's fun to see the 1940s version of
earlier eras), be certain to check in with Security in the Lobby. Some days
they're welcoming and some days they look at you as if you're carrying
bombs.

Something neither Pallas nor I mentioned is that there is a tiny theater in
the far corner of the FIDM exhibit where you can sit and watch trailers of
the movies in the exhibit. It's nice to see the clothing you just looked at
in movement. 

The costumes run from the fantasy of LOTR, Extraordinary Gentlemen and XMen2
through Civil War, Japanese, futuristic, smack into the 1950s (my guilty
pleasure) of Mona Lisa Smile and surprisingly, a few other movies.

It's really exciting to see the detail of the costumes when you're face to
face with them. Didn't see the movie, but they've got one little room set up
for "The Haunted Mansion." Be certain to look at the costumes with the
special flashlights; they've used some special paint on the clothing that
glows eerily when the light hits them right and you're looking at them at
the right angle. (The security guard will show you.)

For the LOTR bit, the armor is indeed marvelous; there's so much detail you
can't see when in movement.  I didn't realize that Arwen's dress is green,
not white, but there it was. There's also an orc crouching to one side. I
KNOW it was a mannequin, I KNOW that. Yet, I couldn't stand near it -- it
looked that alive. The armor for "The Last Samuri" is also on display and it
looks like the real pieces I've been lucky enough to view.

Enjoy the exhibits - and plan to spend the day doing only these two exhibits
(and don't forget the FIDM store - great, great deals in there and the money
goes to the FIDM Scholarship Fund).

LynnD
Wishing I could go back again this weekend

On 3/12/04 2:15 PM, "PallasAMK@aol.com" <PallasAMK@aol.com> wrote:

> 
> 
>> Both the Erte exhibit at LACMA and the Movie costume exhibit are still up
>> and will be until the first week of April.
> 
> 
> I second Lynne's opinion of the Erte--it was great!  Primarily costumes that
> belonged to Ganna Wolska, the opera singer of questionable ability, but some
> street and evening clothing by Erte's 1920's contemporaries, like Barbier,
> Lanvin, and a whole line of gorgeous, perfect Fortuny gowns.  But, alas, not
> even 
> a postcard, as Lynne noted.
> 
> The FIDM exhibit is also really good this year--the LOTR costumes alone are
> worth the visit--just exquisite.  Even the armor, and I am sooooo not
> interested in armor.  (Interesting factoid from the acccompanying information
> sheet 
> [which may or may not still be available]: all the chain mail is made from
> PVC--you'd never know it!)  Lots to see in the main gallery, and then the
> third 
> floor gallery features old Hollywhood designers and their creations, like
> Adrian, 
> Edith Head, Orry Kelly, etc.  And since FIDM is only a stone's throw from the
> garment district, you can be inspired and then go shopping!
> 
> Both exhibitions have teasers online:  Go to www.lacma.org and www.fidm.org
> 
> Pallas
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.lahacal.org/rendance/
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New BBC Costume Drama
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In a message dated 3/12/2004 2:50:41 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
ruthanneb@mindspring.com writes:

> Would the director whose show
> prompted this thread feel just as comfortable doing a tv version of "Hair"
> but letting his actors wear clothing from the '40s? 

This isn't a fair analogy. "Hair" is a very specific "happening". The very 
structure is not malleable to many other periods. But maybe in another 200 
years...who knows what they'll be able to do with it.

I also have a problem with an Elizabethan "Julius Caesar", or "Richard III." 
An Elizabethan "Henry V" or "Titus Andronicus". 

But Julie Tamore's "Titus" works because it meshes two ITALIAN things: 
Ancient Rome and Mussolini....both times of political cruelty. Kenneth Branagh's 4 
hour "Hamlet" works in it's turn of the century period because of the political 
intrigue we associate with that period in Europe and in the play. The 
Fascists is the film "Richard III" mirror pretty well the workings of politics in 
that episode of the War of the Roses. And none of these plays were from the start 
concerned with period accuracy even in the plots.

But doing it Elizabethan I wouldn't think is always the way to go.

Of course Shakespeare is not the only playwright to "suffer" this. I once saw 
a Moliere "The Learned Ladies" done 1830s. [It was perfect actually]

The key is to find a period that fits what's already been written and not one 
you have to force. Peter Sellars [the director, not comic actor] did two 
Mozart operas in modern dress "Le Nozzi di Figaro" and "Don Gionvanni'. They suck 
because even though he was clever with making the characters fit [too clever 
if you ask me] the time period doesn't fit the works....which he woefully 
misunderstood. That film of "Midsummer" doesn't work because...like...well...why is 
it moved to Italy? How does that help? [I costumed an 1890s Midsummer...and 
it can work mainly because of the sensuality vs. proper behavior...the nature 
vs. civilization issues in the play]

If you can find another time when the length of men's hair and youth vs. the 
establishment are big issues, you could do "Hair" in that period.
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On Friday 12 March 2004 12:27 pm, Dawn wrote:
> Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
> > Maybe the bunching problem is why we don't see a lot of sleeves that
> > button most of the way up the arm today, except on some bridal wear. 
> > Does anyone know if bridal wear uses the period method, or does bridal
> > couture deal with this problem some other way?
>
> The buttons on the back and sleeves of my dress were fakes. The back had
> a zipper under the button panel and the sleeves were just loose enough
> to slide over the hands, there was no opening at all.

That would be one way to eliminate the bunching issue.  :-)

Thanks for the info.
-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Anything's within walking distance if you have the time." -Steven Wright
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] This American Life, was: New BBC Costume Drama
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I love This American Life!  Great program!  If people are interested, 
they won't find it on NPR's website, however.  TAL is a Public Radio 
International production.

Anyway, I found the link to the audio program you're talking about on 
http://www.thisamericanlife.org

http://207.70.82.73/pages/descriptions/96/38.html

If that fails to bring it up, do a search under "reenactor" and it will 
come up.

Obligatory Costume Content: I listen to TAL while sewing.  I just 
download one program after another until I'm exhausted from sewing.  
Fresh Air with Terry Gross (http://freshair.npr.org) is another 
favorite of mine.  ;)

Sarah,
Public Radio Geek
http://www.modehsitorique.com

On Friday, March 12, 2004, at 06:48  PM, michael tartaglio wrote:

> Hi. All. On this and similar subjects, we here in the US and others on 
> the Internet who listen to National Public Radio might have heard last 
> weeks "This American Life"  by Ira Glass. His subject matter was 
> reality and the different ways we (Americans) perceive it, and how 
> people alter it to fit their views. The beginning piece is by another 
> radio journalist who interviewed Civil War (US) reenactors about 
> "authenticity" (The word "farb" was mentioned)  The other pieces were 
> on, among other subjects, how our view of dinosaurs and their "way of 
> life" has changed and how it mirrors our world view, and how a 
> University of Chicago Medieval History professor viewed going to 
> "Medieval Times", a themed dinner show/tournament at an ersatz 
> "castle". In the piece on the dinosaurs, I can draw a parallel to what 
> Cindy is talking about regarding how "history" has been viewed through 
> the eye of film. I believe that you can listen to the program by going 
> to National Public Radio on the web, locating "This American Life"  
> and looking for the program entitled "Simulated Worlds"  BTW, 
> apparently he doesn't realize that Europeans do reenacting too (he 
> asks" what if English and French people reenacted the Norman 
> Conquest?"). Mike T.

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Hi. All. On this and similar subjects, we here in the US and others on 
the Internet who listen to National Public Radio might have heard last 
weeks "This American Life"  by Ira Glass. His subject matter was reality 
and the different ways we (Americans) perceive it, and how people alter 
it to fit their views. The beginning piece is by another radio 
journalist who interviewed Civil War (US) reenactors about 
"authenticity" (The word "farb" was mentioned)  The other pieces were 
on, among other subjects, how our view of dinosaurs and their "way of 
life" has changed and how it mirrors our world view, and how a 
University of Chicago Medieval History professor viewed going to 
"Medieval Times", a themed dinner show/tournament at an ersatz "castle". 
In the piece on the dinosaurs, I can draw a parallel to what Cindy is 
talking about regarding how "history" has been viewed through the eye of 
film. I believe that you can listen to the program by going to National 
Public Radio on the web, locating "This American Life"  and looking for 
the program entitled "Simulated Worlds"  BTW, apparently he doesn't 
realize that Europeans do reenacting too (he asks" what if English and 
French people reenacted the Norman Conquest?"). Mike T.

Cindy Abel wrote:

>Read "Hollywood and History" an excellent book of how the movies have shown
>the current(at the time of making of the film)fashionable aesthetic to some
>degree since the dawn of the motion picture. Edward Maeder is the author. He
>traces many films from designer's concept to finished product. Budget, time,
>concern with star actors vanity(or lack thereof, in a few cases), studio
>heads' concern, and even the Hays Code have all played a part in influencing
>historic film costuming. Fascinating reading
>
>For movies showing on TCM and AMC, especially, spotting all the
>anachronistics in costuming, makeup, and hairstyles is the fun!!
>
>
>  
>

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Subject: [h-cost] Today's term VS 1838
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I am working on some fashion reports from 1838.  The articles refer to half-dress descriptions.  This also means demi-toilette... something to lounge around the house in the early morning or late evening.  Sometimes, when I put online in my table of contents, I use a title describing the contents of the article that people in the 21st Century can understand.  I really don't want to use the titles of Half Dress or Demi-Toilette since I had to look them up in the dictionary for a definition.  So what all do you think would be a good 21st Century title would be for these sections?  I want to stay away from something that one would need a fashion dictionary.  The descriptions of the costumes are not like housedresses, they are more like fancy wrappers.  But I don't think an average person in this century would know what a wrapper is.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
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Hi, All. Thanks, Sarah, for the correction about the NPR/PRI thingie. I 
thought I remembered it being located there. BTW, it is an interesting 
show, since the subject matter is just what we talk about on this list. 
I recommend taking the time to see how subjects that are near and dear 
to us are seen by the rest of the world, it kind of gives you 
perspective. Cheers, Mike T.

Sarah Lorraine wrote:

> I love This American Life!  Great program!  If people are interested, 
> they won't find it on NPR's website, however.  TAL is a Public Radio 
> International production.
>

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At-home wear?

Kim

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
Sent: Friday, March 12, 2004 9:21 PM
To: h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] Today's term VS 1838

I am working on some fashion reports from 1838.  The articles refer to
half-dress descriptions.  This also means demi-toilette... something to
lounge around the house in the early morning or late evening.
Sometimes, when I put online in my table of contents, I use a title
describing the contents of the article that people in the 21st Century
can understand.  I really don't want to use the titles of Half Dress or
Demi-Toilette since I had to look them up in the dictionary for a
definition.  So what all do you think would be a good 21st Century title
would be for these sections?  I want to stay away from something that
one would need a fashion dictionary.  The descriptions of the costumes
are not like housedresses, they are more like fancy wrappers.  But I
don't think an average person in this century would know what a wrapper
is.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
_______________________________________________
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From: "Helen  Pinto" <hpinto@mindspring.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Today's term VS 1838
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How about Loungewear?
        -Helen/Aidan

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, March 12, 2004 10:21 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Today's term VS 1838


I am working on some fashion reports from 1838.  The articles refer to
half-dress descriptions.  This also means demi-toilette... something to
lounge around the house in the early morning or late evening.  Sometimes,
when I put online in my table of contents, I use a title describing the
contents of the article that people in the 21st Century can understand.  I
really don't want to use the titles of Half Dress or Demi-Toilette since I
had to look them up in the dictionary for a definition.  So what all do you
think would be a good 21st Century title would be for these sections?  I
want to stay away from something that one would need a fashion dictionary.
The descriptions of the costumes are not like housedresses, they are more
like fancy wrappers.  But I don't think an average person in this century
would know what a wrapper is.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Today's term VS 1838
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>I am working on some fashion reports from 1838.  The articles refer to 
>half-dress descriptions.  This also means demi-toilette... something to 
>lounge around the house in the early morning or late evening.  Sometimes, 
>when I put online in my table of contents, I use a title describing the 
>contents of the article that people in the 21st Century can understand.  I 
>really don't want to use the titles of Half Dress or Demi-Toilette since I 
>had to look them up in the dictionary for a definition.  So what all do 
>you think would be a good 21st Century title would be for these sections?

Lounge-wear?

>I want to stay away from something that one would need a fashion 
>dictionary.  The descriptions of the costumes are not like housedresses, 
>they are more like fancy wrappers.  But I don't think an average person in 
>this century would know what a wrapper is.

Wrapper = housecoat, or it did in America in the 1950s.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Now, Kayta... we have a new generation that doesn't know what a house coat
is... some do not even know what a robe is! Maybe a few know what a robe is.
Isn't that what is wore in LOTR????????  Just kidding the younger ones on
the list. (Please don't flame me)  Can you tell that 1838 is getting to my
brain!!!  I will finish it, I will finish it!  (Have to keep telling myself
this and keeping a sense of humor or I will go crazy)

Hmmm... lounge wear today means... sweatpants and a t-shirt, which can also
double as sports wear... the opposite.

I think that I am going with Lounge Wear.  I feel like a dinosaur now!  Only
three more months of reports to go for this Year in Fashion.  The Paris
reports are a lot easier than the London reports. Each month has both
reports.  Every time I come across a fashion term in these articles that I
don't think the average person knows, I put in ( ) a brief definition.
London's reports needs a lot of these definitions.  I keep going back and
forth between three fashion dictionaries.  (I will finish it, I will finish
it!)

Time for a break on the heating pad... (then I will work on it again)

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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Subject: [h-cost] Another question
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Again from the 1838 London fashion report... it is a French word *chef d'or*.  Does anyone know what this means?  I can't find it in my three fashion dictionaries.

Here is the sentence it is used in:

White shawls with white fringe are perhaps the most distingue; but azure blue, or pearl grey shawls trimmed with white fringe - we mean, of course, the poil de Cachemere - are very elegant, particularly when a chef d'or is placed between the fringe and the shawl.


Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Today's term VS 1838
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>Now, Kayta... we have a new generation that doesn't know what a house coat
>is... some do not even know what a robe is!

Bathrobe?

>Maybe a few know what a robe is.
>Isn't that what is wore in LOTR????????

The Harry Potter film had robes, by Madam Malkin, and I think some English 
school children still do.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lounge Wear
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Funny Kayta, of all the kids I know between 12-27, none have bathrobes. We
have a lot of kids spend the night.  My oldest son had one when he was
little.  But that went down the drain as he got older.  I have several
bathrobes... one beautiful silk one my husband brought  from a trip to
Japan.  I haven't worn a bathrobe in the past ten years.  I haven't even
seen a bathrobe in a store in years.  They used to be a good Christmas gift
for Moms and Dads.  The only time I see people with them is going in and out
of a sauna on TV.

 I really haven't seen kids wearing PJs in the past few years.  Most of them
wear t-shirts and boxers/loose shorts. I wonder if kids got tired of them
when they are little. Generally, ladies wear long t-shirts, except for
intimate nights.  I know they sell night gowns for ladies in the stores... I
have seen them!  But most of them seem for old ladies, like Moo-Moos.  The
long t-shirts seem to have taken over the market.

I wonder why the trend changed.  I remember in the 60s, Mom had long flowing
nighties of a lightweight fabric, maybe tricot (sp), and a matching
beautiful long chiffon robe.  She had them in all shades of pastels.
Sometimes they had fake fur or feathers around the edge of the sleeves and
hemline.  I always wanted one... they looked like movie stars nighties.

Darn, by the time I was old enough to wear one, they went out of fashion.
But baby doll nighties were in fashion in the 70s.  I loved them!!!

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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Penny Ladnier wrote:

> Funny Kayta, of all the kids I know between 12-27, none have bathrobes. We
> have a lot of kids spend the night.

Kids travel light to sleep-overs, or at least light on the practical 
side, like teens habits of never wearing coats to school unless it's 
really, really cold!  I've seen this, watching kids get off the bus in 
the winter (I"m north of Boston.)

But the bathrobe thing may be a regional variant; certainly everyone I 
know (except for my toddlers, who won't keep things on) has a bathrobe 
to wear around the house, or else they'd be cold!

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent
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Penny wrote:
I haven't worn a bathrobe in the past ten years.  I haven't even
seen a bathrobe in a store in years.  They used to be a good Christmas gift
for Moms and Dads.  The only time I see people with them is going in and out
of a sauna on TV.

There are plenty of bathrobes at Walmart and Target.  They are also readily
available from merchants like Lands End.  I get a new one every 5 years or
so, as my old terry one gets worn out and a new one is necessary.  If the
kids don't have a robe, how do they get from the bathroom to their room to
dress after a shower?
-Megan

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Megan,

I haven't seen them in the stores here in the Richmond, VA area in a long
time.

Everyone in my house dresses in the bathroom.  Heaven forbid, they would
take a towel to their bedroom and I would never get it back!  If the towels
went to their bedrooms it would be like went to the vast space where missing
socks are.  No one knows!  They know... don't take off with my towels.

Megan, we start outdoor swim meets in May and it is still cold here at
night.  The kids will get out of the pool and put on a hoodie, coat, or wrap
up in a blanket.  I have never seen one kid put on a robe coming out of the
pool in seven years.  We even have many cold night swim meets in June and
July with a couple of hundred kids are there... no robes.  Always blankets,
hoodies, and coats.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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Anne Boleyn

http://www.kunstkopie.de/static/kuenstler/Englisch--3161.html

Has anyone seen this portrait before?

De
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Found this portrait that I had never seen before

http://www.Kunstkopie.de/static/motive/Bildnis-der-Anne-Boleyn-der-zweiten-F
rau-heinrichs-VII-von-Englisch-1018453.html

De

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Anne Boleyn
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Rats, can't get the link to work and the search doesn't come up with
anything for Boleyn....

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of otsisto
> Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 4:55 AM
> To: Historic Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] Anne Boleyn
> 
> Found this portrait that I had never seen before
> 
>
http://www.Kunstkopie.de/static/motive/Bildnis-der-Anne-Boleyn-der-zweiten-F
> rau-heinrichs-VII-von-Englisch-1018453.html
> 
> De
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Another question
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I can't give you a complete answer but d'or means "of gold". It sounds like a 
band of gold.
Wendy Colbert
Quoting Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com>:

> Again from the 1838 London fashion report... it is a French word *chef d'or*.
>  Does anyone know what this means?  I can't find it in my three fashion
> dictionaries.
> 
> Here is the sentence it is used in:
> 
> White shawls with white fringe are perhaps the most distingue; but azure
> blue, or pearl grey shawls trimmed with white fringe - we mean, of course,
> the poil de Cachemere - are very elegant, particularly when a chef d'or is
> placed between the fringe and the shawl.
> 
> 
> Penny E. Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lounge Wear
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I live in Atlanta and my son, age 14 has a calf length terry robe and my 
daughter, a freshman at Ohio State University bought a somewhat shorter one 
when she was preparing for life in the dorms.

My husband and I both have terry robes as well.

Wendy Colbert
Quoting Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com>:

> Funny Kayta, of all the kids I know between 12-27, none have bathrobes. We
> have a lot of kids spend the night.  My oldest son had one when he was
> little.  But that went down the drain as he got older.  I have several
> bathrobes... one beautiful silk one my husband brought  from a trip to
> Japan.  I haven't worn a bathrobe in the past ten years.  I haven't even
> seen a bathrobe in a store in years.  They used to be a good Christmas gift
> for Moms and Dads.  The only time I see people with them is going in and out
> of a sauna on TV.
> 
>  I really haven't seen kids wearing PJs in the past few years.  Most of them
> wear t-shirts and boxers/loose shorts. I wonder if kids got tired of them
> when they are little. Generally, ladies wear long t-shirts, except for
> intimate nights.  I know they sell night gowns for ladies in the stores... I
> have seen them!  But most of them seem for old ladies, like Moo-Moos.  The
> long t-shirts seem to have taken over the market.
> 
> I wonder why the trend changed.  I remember in the 60s, Mom had long flowing
> nighties of a lightweight fabric, maybe tricot (sp), and a matching
> beautiful long chiffon robe.  She had them in all shades of pastels.
> Sometimes they had fake fur or feathers around the edge of the sleeves and
> hemline.  I always wanted one... they looked like movie stars nighties.
> 
> Darn, by the time I was old enough to wear one, they went out of fashion.
> But baby doll nighties were in fashion in the 70s.  I loved them!!!
> 
> Penny E. Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
> 
> 
> [This E-mail was scanned for viruses by Plugit.com Virus Scanners
> (http://www.plugit.com)]
> 
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> 



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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar 13 09:14:12 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Another question
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I can't give you a specific translation but just by translating the words
you get:

head of gold
leader of gold
ruler of gold

>From the context I'd say it a band of gold trim of some sort placed along
the edge of the shawl. 

The word 'chef' can mean any sort of leadership position (chef de cuisine
is the head of the kitchen).


Karen


On Sat, 13 Mar 2004 08:44:39 -0500 wendyc@vivid.net writes:
> 
> I can't give you a complete answer but d'or means "of gold". It 
> sounds like a 
> band of gold.
> Wendy Colbert
> Quoting Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com>:
> 
> > Again from the 1838 London fashion report... it is a French word 
> *chef d'or*.
> >  Does anyone know what this means?  I can't find it in my three 
> fashion
> > dictionaries.
> > 
> > Here is the sentence it is used in:
> > 
> > White shawls with white fringe are perhaps the most distingue; but 
> azure
> > blue, or pearl grey shawls trimmed with white fringe - we mean, of 
> course,
> > the poil de Cachemere - are very elegant, particularly when a chef 
> d'or is
> > placed between the fringe and the shawl.
> > 
> > 
> > Penny E. Ladnier

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Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 07:35:01 -0800
From: Connie / Jacyntha <jacyntha@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lounge Wear
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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My 14 year old didn't wear one for years, but for Christmas I made him a
polar fleece camo robe and he rarely takes it off when he's in the house. I
bought one for myself (it was cheaper than making it) and wear it fairly
often too.

I remember those chiffony sets, maybe we're slow in Canada but they were
still around in the early 80's.

Connie

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 2:00 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lounge Wear


> Funny Kayta, of all the kids I know between 12-27, none have bathrobes. We
> have a lot of kids spend the night.  My oldest son had one when he was
> little.  But that went down the drain as he got older.  I have several
> bathrobes... one beautiful silk one my husband brought  from a trip to
> Japan.  I haven't worn a bathrobe in the past ten years.  I haven't even
> seen a bathrobe in a store in years.  They used to be a good Christmas
gift
> for Moms and Dads.  The only time I see people with them is going in and
out
> of a sauna on TV.
>
>  I really haven't seen kids wearing PJs in the past few years.  Most of
them
> wear t-shirts and boxers/loose shorts. I wonder if kids got tired of them
> when they are little. Generally, ladies wear long t-shirts, except for
> intimate nights.  I know they sell night gowns for ladies in the stores...
I
> have seen them!  But most of them seem for old ladies, like Moo-Moos.  The
> long t-shirts seem to have taken over the market.
>
> I wonder why the trend changed.  I remember in the 60s, Mom had long
flowing
> nighties of a lightweight fabric, maybe tricot (sp), and a matching
> beautiful long chiffon robe.  She had them in all shades of pastels.
> Sometimes they had fake fur or feathers around the edge of the sleeves and
> hemline.  I always wanted one... they looked like movie stars nighties.
>
> Darn, by the time I was old enough to wear one, they went out of fashion.
> But baby doll nighties were in fashion in the 70s.  I loved them!!!
>
> Penny E. Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
>
>
> [This E-mail was scanned for viruses by Plugit.com Virus Scanners
(http://www.plugit.com)]
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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In a message dated 3/12/2004 10:38:36 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
kbaird@cableone.net writes:

> But I
> don't think an average person in this century would know what a wrapper
> is.
> 

Sure they would! Wrap is very popular with teens now!


Seriously, I don't think this term is too out there. Nor is Half 
Dress....which are two words everybody understands and the implications [What?! Are they 
in their BVDs?] might make someone want to know just what you mean and explore.
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: bathrobes
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We all have bathrobes in our house! Pajamas, too. I mean real pajamas, not
sweatpants and t-shirts. And all the stores certainly sell bathrobes, from
the department stores to the discount stores. Dots, which is a chain of
really cheap women's clothes stores catering mostly to teens, always has
seasonal robes and PJs. TJ Maxx, my personal favorite chain, does too. And
so do the department stores I am starting to use more and more.

I got my current bathrobe at a consignment shop. It's grape purple, with a
polyester jaquard outside and a microfleece lining. Big lapels, sort of a
smoking gown look. The mosty comfy robe I have ever owned.

Gail Finke


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Myself, I would like to see the original terms used with the modern 
terms in parentheses next to it. Perhaps 'casualwear' or 'loungewear'. 
When I do costume searches I try to use words as historically correct as 
possible, because that is what I am looking for, but I appreciate seeing 
a definition next to new terminology.



Dawn




Penny Ladnier wrote:

> I am working on some fashion reports from 1838.  The articles refer to half-dress descriptions.  This also means demi-toilette... something to lounge around the house in the early morning or late evening.  Sometimes, when I put online in my table of contents, I use a title describing the contents of the article that people in the 21st Century can understand.  I really don't want to use the titles of Half Dress or Demi-Toilette since I had to look them up in the dictionary for a definition.  So what all do you think would be a good 21st Century title would be for these sections?  I want to stay away from something that one would need a fashion dictionary.  The descriptions of the costumes are not like housedresses, they are more like fancy wrappers.  But I don't think an average person in this century would know what a wrapper is.
> 

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From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
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Subject: [h-cost] sleeve closures (was: medieval button closures)
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This discussion reminds me of another type of sleeve closure I've seen on a
couple of men's garments in mid-late 15thC paintings--the sleeves are laced
shut, with what I'd guess is silk ribbon on one and some sort of cord in the
other.  Has anyone seen or read of this? Anyone found it on women's
garments?
<http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1487memlingportraitMaartenNieuwenhovedet.j
pg>
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1474-memlingdet.jpg

This type of closure would explain a type of sleeve that's been bugging me
for a while, in which there's obviously a slit for fastening, but there's no
buttons, even though the painting is detailed enough that such a thing would
certainly have been shown, or in some cases is shown, just not on the
sleeves. When I first noticed the laced closures, I had one of those great
"Oh, DUH! What a simple solution" moments.

I had another of those moments recently, also with sleeves. This type:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/det1490anne_aus.jpg
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/det1498magdalen2.jpg
has perplexed me for quite a while, and I was thinking that the answer was
something along the lines of a fur trim on the sleeve of an unlined
underdress, or a complicated cuff... well, oh DUH, it's simply a long
fur-lined sleeve that's been folded back, then folded forward again. (The
moral of the story being, always look for the simple solution.)

And in search of yet another "oh, DUH," has anyone found written accounts of
black chemises c1490-c1530?

-E

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lounge Wear
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 12:42:45 -0500
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On Saturday 13 March 2004 05:00 am, Penny Ladnier wrote:
> Funny Kayta, of all the kids I know between 12-27, none have bathrobes. We
> have a lot of kids spend the night.  My oldest son had one when he was
> little.  But that went down the drain as he got older.  I have several
> bathrobes... one beautiful silk one my husband brought  from a trip to
> Japan.  I haven't worn a bathrobe in the past ten years.  I haven't even
> seen a bathrobe in a store in years.  They used to be a good Christmas gift
> for Moms and Dads.  The only time I see people with them is going in and
> out of a sauna on TV.

For a long while, bathrobes were one of the things I always got for Christmas 
from my mom.  But no Victorian woman would *ever* willingly have worn a 
garment that was as stained and torn as my present cotton chamois cloth 
bathrobe.  :-)


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Anything's within walking distance if you have the time." -Steven Wright
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On Saturday 13 March 2004 11:56 am, Gail & Scott Finke wrote:
> We all have bathrobes in our house! Pajamas, too. I mean real pajamas, not
> sweatpants and t-shirts. And all the stores certainly sell bathrobes, from
> the department stores to the discount stores. Dots, which is a chain of
> really cheap women's clothes stores catering mostly to teens, always has
> seasonal robes and PJs. TJ Maxx, my personal favorite chain, does too. And
> so do the department stores I am starting to use more and more.

The big mail-order preppy outfitters (Lands' End, LL Bean) generally carry 
bathrobes also--particularly polar fleece and terry cloth robes.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Anything's within walking distance if you have the time." -Steven Wright
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In heraldry, a "chef d'or" is a horizontal gold band running across the top
of the shield.  I'd have to go with a gold border between the body of the
shawl and the fringe.
             -Helen/Aidan


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>From: Penny Ladnier
>I am working on some fashion reports from 1838.  The articles refer to
>half-dress descriptions.  This also means demi-toilette... something to
>lounge around the house in the early morning or late evening.
>Sometimes, when I put online in my table of contents, I use a title
>describing the contents of the article that people in the 21st Century
>can understand.  I really don't want to use the titles of Half Dress or
>Demi-Toilette since I had to look them up in the dictionary for a
>definition...

>From personal experience - please at least consider using the original term 
and not just mis-applying some later term that really means something else.  
If 21st century people won't understand the terms, add a brief glossary.  I 
spend far too much time having to deal with messes left by earlier costumers 
and shoe historians trying to make things make more accessible to what the 
perceive as uninformed moderns, and thereby making things more confusing.

If you use a more modern term, you run the risk of some well meaning 
costumer down the line thinking "well she wouldn't have called a 
demi-toilette a dingfarble if she didn't mean that demi-toilettes were 
dingfarbles, ergo dingfarbles are period for this (even though they weren't 
invented until 1982)."

Marc.

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar 13 17:20:50 2004
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Anne Boleyn
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 16:19:01 -0600
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Sorry , The link on "oops" will get you there. 

De

-----Original Message-----

Rats, can't get the link to work and the search doesn't come up with
anything for Boleyn....


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar 13 17:26:47 2004
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New BBC Costume Drama
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michael tartaglio <mikes@dandy.net> wrote
>Hi. All. On this and similar subjects, we here in the US and others on 
>the Internet who listen to National Public Radio might have heard last 
>weeks "This American Life"  by Ira Glass. His subject matter was 
>reality and the different ways we (Americans) perceive it, and how 
>people alter it to fit their views. The beginning piece is by another 
>radio journalist who interviewed Civil War (US) reenactors about 
>"authenticity" (The word "farb" was mentioned)  The other pieces were 
>on, among other subjects, how our view of dinosaurs and their "way of 
>life" has changed and how it mirrors our world view, and how a 
>University of Chicago Medieval History professor viewed going to 
>"Medieval Times", a themed dinner show/tournament at an ersatz 
>"castle". In the piece on the dinosaurs, I can draw a parallel to what 
>Cindy is talking about regarding how "history" has been viewed through 
>the eye of film. I believe that you can listen to the program by going 
>to National Public Radio on the web, locating "This American Life"  and 
>looking for the program entitled "Simulated Worlds" BTW, apparently he 
>doesn't realize that Europeans do reenacting too (he asks" what if 
>English and French people reenacted the Norman Conquest?"). Mike T.

Unfortunately I don't have the facility to listen to the whole article, 
but isn't this a weird comment, given that he started out with Civil War 
reenactors? I would have thought that the issues there are much fresher 
and more likely to stir up feeling than...Hastings, Agincourt, Crecy, 
Bannockburn, English Civil War, Jacobite rebellions, and many more ... 
all of which have been re-fought frequently between reenactors of the 
original opposing sides - not to mention Isandlwana recently!

Jean


>
>Cindy Abel wrote:
>
>>Read "Hollywood and History" an excellent book of how the movies have shown
>>the current(at the time of making of the film)fashionable aesthetic to some
>>degree since the dawn of the motion picture. Edward Maeder is the author. He
>>traces many films from designer's concept to finished product. Budget, time,
>>concern with star actors vanity(or lack thereof, in a few cases), studio
>>heads' concern, and even the Hays Code have all played a part in influencing
>>historic film costuming. Fascinating reading
>>
>>For movies showing on TCM and AMC, especially, spotting all the
>>anachronistics in costuming, makeup, and hairstyles is the fun!!
>>
>>
>>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lounge Wear
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My younger daughter (wow, 30 this year!) favors a ratty pink chenille which
she bought when she went to college. (But then, not every dorm has "cookies
and milk at 9:30 PM every night!) She wants a new(er)one, but it has to be
exactly like the one that should bite the dust. I wear terry and
flannel-backed satin in the winter and a wonderful 1970's kimono inspired
open front caftan. (Can't remember the right ethnic name for the robe. We
keep a flannel robe in the traveling suitcase for my husband...but he
prefers long night shirts.  My brother favors exotic caftans in the evening.
My older daughter does the oversized tees and mismatched flannel bottoms.
La, Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <wendyc@vivid.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 8:47 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lounge Wear


> I live in Atlanta and my son, age 14 has a calf length terry robe and my
> daughter, a freshman at Ohio State University bought a somewhat shorter
one
> when she was preparing for life in the dorms.
>
> My husband and I both have terry robes as well.
>
> Wendy Colbert
> Quoting Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com>:
>
> > Funny Kayta, of all the kids I know between 12-27, none have bathrobes.
We
> > have a lot of kids spend the night.  My oldest son had one when he was
> > little.  But that went down the drain as he got older.  I have several
> > bathrobes... one beautiful silk one my husband brought  from a trip to
> > Japan.  I haven't worn a bathrobe in the past ten years.  I haven't even
> > seen a bathrobe in a store in years.  They used to be a good Christmas
gift
> > for Moms and Dads.  The only time I see people with them is going in and
out
> > of a sauna on TV.
> >
> >  I really haven't seen kids wearing PJs in the past few years.  Most of
them
> > wear t-shirts and boxers/loose shorts. I wonder if kids got tired of
them
> > when they are little. Generally, ladies wear long t-shirts, except for
> > intimate nights.  I know they sell night gowns for ladies in the
stores... I
> > have seen them!  But most of them seem for old ladies, like Moo-Moos.
The
> > long t-shirts seem to have taken over the market.
> >
> > I wonder why the trend changed.  I remember in the 60s, Mom had long
flowing
> > nighties of a lightweight fabric, maybe tricot (sp), and a matching
> > beautiful long chiffon robe.  She had them in all shades of pastels.
> > Sometimes they had fake fur or feathers around the edge of the sleeves
and
> > hemline.  I always wanted one... they looked like movie stars nighties.
> >
> > Darn, by the time I was old enough to wear one, they went out of
fashion.
> > But baby doll nighties were in fashion in the 70s.  I loved them!!!
> >
> > Penny E. Ladnier
> > Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> > www.costumegallery.com
> > www.costumeclassroom.com
> >
> >
> > [This E-mail was scanned for viruses by Plugit.com Virus Scanners
> > (http://www.plugit.com)]
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
>
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>


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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] sleeve closures (was: medieval button closures)
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 16:39:11 -0600
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There is a portrait of Lucia von Munchausen, by Ludger Tom Ring d.j.
What I have is a black and white photo. This is the portrait that people I
know use as a "documentation" for color chemises. They too only have seen
the black and white photo and not in color. They point out that the elbow
slashes do not have white coming through but there is fabric peeking
through. I point out that the cuff ruffle is white with blackwork and
normally the ruffle is connected to the chemise.
This should be the link to the a blk and wht-
http://www.thrednedlestrete.com/more/p22.htm

De

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of E House
Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 11:09 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] sleeve closures (was: medieval button closures)


This discussion reminds me of another type of sleeve closure I've seen on a
couple of men's garments in mid-late 15thC paintings--the sleeves are laced
shut, with what I'd guess is silk ribbon on one and some sort of cord in the
other.  Has anyone seen or read of this? Anyone found it on women's
garments?
<http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1487memlingportraitMaartenNieuwenhovedet.j
pg>
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1474-memlingdet.jpg

This type of closure would explain a type of sleeve that's been bugging me
for a while, in which there's obviously a slit for fastening, but there's no
buttons, even though the painting is detailed enough that such a thing would
certainly have been shown, or in some cases is shown, just not on the
sleeves. When I first noticed the laced closures, I had one of those great
"Oh, DUH! What a simple solution" moments.

I had another of those moments recently, also with sleeves. This type:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/det1490anne_aus.jpg
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/det1498magdalen2.jpg
has perplexed me for quite a while, and I was thinking that the answer was
something along the lines of a fur trim on the sleeve of an unlined
underdress, or a complicated cuff... well, oh DUH, it's simply a long
fur-lined sleeve that's been folded back, then folded forward again. (The
moral of the story being, always look for the simple solution.)

And in search of yet another "oh, DUH," has anyone found written accounts of
black chemises c1490-c1530?

-E

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar 13 17:49:27 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Today's term VS 1838
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Penny, I have two of these garments, both are white.  One is full length and
the other a jacket.  The white-work embroidery puts them mid century..  Also
I have a blue and white satin one from the 1890's that is described as a
"combing jacket". I guess they were 'boudoir wear in their time frame. Not
at all like VS or Frederick's, but perhaps that term might connect with the
present time, even minus the 'sexy' connotation.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, March 12, 2004 10:21 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Today's term VS 1838


I am working on some fashion reports from 1838.  The articles refer to
half-dress descriptions.  This also means demi-toilette... something to
lounge around the house in the early morning or late evening.  Sometimes,
when I put online in my table of contents, I use a title describing the
contents of the article that people in the 21st Century can understand.  I
really don't want to use the titles of Half Dress or Demi-Toilette since I
had to look them up in the dictionary for a definition.  So what all do you
think would be a good 21st Century title would be for these sections?  I
want to stay away from something that one would need a fashion dictionary.
The descriptions of the costumes are not like housedresses, they are more
like fancy wrappers.  But I don't think an average person in this century
would know what a wrapper is.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar 13 17:55:18 2004
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	<035e01c408b4$e270df40$85e34a43@HELENPINTO>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Today's term VS 1838
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Garments of this description and period would never be worn outside the
confines of the bedroom, or at least no further than the 'morning room'.
Only to be seen by the intimate family members. Colored wrappers or
"indienne" sorts were ok for the indoors, but one would be dressed in the
back yard, if only to hang the wash.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Helen Pinto" <hpinto@mindspring.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, March 12, 2004 11:37 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Today's term VS 1838


> How about Loungewear?
>         -Helen/Aidan
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
> To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Friday, March 12, 2004 10:21 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] Today's term VS 1838
>
>
> I am working on some fashion reports from 1838.  The articles refer to
> half-dress descriptions.  This also means demi-toilette... something to
> lounge around the house in the early morning or late evening.  Sometimes,
> when I put online in my table of contents, I use a title describing the
> contents of the article that people in the 21st Century can understand.  I
> really don't want to use the titles of Half Dress or Demi-Toilette since I
> had to look them up in the dictionary for a definition.  So what all do
you
> think would be a good 21st Century title would be for these sections?  I
> want to stay away from something that one would need a fashion dictionary.
> The descriptions of the costumes are not like housedresses, they are more
> like fancy wrappers.  But I don't think an average person in this century
> would know what a wrapper is.
>
> Penny E. Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
>
>


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar 13 17:56:32 2004
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] black chemises
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> And in search of yet another "oh, DUH," has anyone found written accounts of
> black chemises c1490-c1530?

	This isn't a direct answer and it's not a written account but it
opens up a possibility.  Cranach has a painting of woman whose *shift is
definitely not white.  My copy is in B&W so I don't know what color it
actually is but the photo reads as a dark color.  It's German, ~1525 and
some opine that it's not actually a shift.  The woman is wearing a
"Cranach gown" but it's laced directly over the undergarment--no white
placket under the breast band.  And the band is _above_ the breasts so I'm
not sure if it's part of the overgown or the undergarment.

--annora

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So is mine! Forrest green satin...and as warm as the old terry.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gail & Scott Finke" <gailscott@eos.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 11:56 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: bathrobes


>
> We all have bathrobes in our house! Pajamas, too. I mean real pajamas, not
> sweatpants and t-shirts. And all the stores certainly sell bathrobes, from
> the department stores to the discount stores. Dots, which is a chain of
> really cheap women's clothes stores catering mostly to teens, always has
> seasonal robes and PJs. TJ Maxx, my personal favorite chain, does too. And
> so do the department stores I am starting to use more and more.
>
> I got my current bathrobe at a consignment shop. It's grape purple, with a
> polyester jaquard outside and a microfleece lining. Big lapels, sort of a
> smoking gown look. The mosty comfy robe I have ever owned.
>
> Gail Finke
>
>
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Ah, but there is a difference between a bathrobe and a dressing gown.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Catherine Olanich Raymond" <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 12:48 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: bathrobes


> On Saturday 13 March 2004 11:56 am, Gail & Scott Finke wrote:
> > We all have bathrobes in our house! Pajamas, too. I mean real pajamas,
not
> > sweatpants and t-shirts. And all the stores certainly sell bathrobes,
from
> > the department stores to the discount stores. Dots, which is a chain of
> > really cheap women's clothes stores catering mostly to teens, always has
> > seasonal robes and PJs. TJ Maxx, my personal favorite chain, does too.
And
> > so do the department stores I am starting to use more and more.
>
> The big mail-order preppy outfitters (Lands' End, LL Bean) generally carry
> bathrobes also--particularly polar fleece and terry cloth robes.
>
>
> -- 
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>
> "Anything's within walking distance if you have the time." -Steven Wright
> _______________________________________________
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>


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar 13 18:10:47 2004
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] sleeve closures (was: medieval button closures)
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 17:09:32 -0600
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This is just royally pissing me off. Apparently the previous link doesn't
work right so,
http://www.thrednedlestrete.com/morse/Illustrations.htm

Look for Munchausen

De

-----Original Message-----
There is a portrait of Lucia von Munchausen, by Ludger Tom Ring d.j.
What I have is a black and white photo. This is the portrait that people I
know use as a "documentation" for color chemises. They too only have seen
the black and white photo and not in color. They point out that the elbow
slashes do not have white coming through but there is fabric peeking
through. I point out that the cuff ruffle is white with blackwork and
normally the ruffle is connected to the chemise.
This should be the link to the a blk and wht-
http://www.thrednedlestrete.com/more/p22.htm

De

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of E House
Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 11:09 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] sleeve closures (was: medieval button closures)


This discussion reminds me of another type of sleeve closure I've seen on a
couple of men's garments in mid-late 15thC paintings--the sleeves are laced
shut, with what I'd guess is silk ribbon on one and some sort of cord in the
other.  Has anyone seen or read of this? Anyone found it on women's
garments?
<http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1487memlingportraitMaartenNieuwenhovedet.j
pg>
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1474-memlingdet.jpg

This type of closure would explain a type of sleeve that's been bugging me
for a while, in which there's obviously a slit for fastening, but there's no
buttons, even though the painting is detailed enough that such a thing would
certainly have been shown, or in some cases is shown, just not on the
sleeves. When I first noticed the laced closures, I had one of those great
"Oh, DUH! What a simple solution" moments.

I had another of those moments recently, also with sleeves. This type:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/det1490anne_aus.jpg
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/det1498magdalen2.jpg
has perplexed me for quite a while, and I was thinking that the answer was
something along the lines of a fur trim on the sleeve of an unlined
underdress, or a complicated cuff... well, oh DUH, it's simply a long
fur-lined sleeve that's been folded back, then folded forward again. (The
moral of the story being, always look for the simple solution.)

And in search of yet another "oh, DUH," has anyone found written accounts of
black chemises c1490-c1530?

-E

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar 13 18:40:44 2004
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From: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] New BBC Costume Drama
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 10:43:57 +1100
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Aww, why don't they do a new costume drama so they can have some leftover
costumes to fit out another series of Blake's Seven, the best period costume
series never set in the past?

-C.

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar 13 18:51:19 2004
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From: Lil Sorepaws <sorepaws@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Slightly OT: Historical Sewing Machine Question
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Hi,

De-lurking to ask yet another stooopid question:

I just bough an OLD SEARS Roebuck table sewing machine with the "wheels"
for special stitches .. its a metal Kenmore in a dusty purple and white
enamel .. (I can take a photo)  has from what I can see ALL the feet and
attachements and about 10-12 special stitch wheels ... my question is
twofold:  Anyone have an idea of when sears stopped selling metal kenmores
and also what these machines are called (the ones with the pattern wheels
...)

Anyone in SE Michigan know how to use ?  It has most of the manuals and
instructions in it and aside from some dog eared corners and one corner
where it looks like their cat chewed on the manual, everything looks to be
almost MINT ... and the pictures in the manuals show a lady dressed in
what looks to me like 50's or 60's.. very tailored top and a tight waisted
full skirt  (think around or pre-poodle skirt - maybe early Laverne and
Shirly era?)

I got the table and chair (with little sewing caddy in the chair and
scissors etc) for darn near a steal ($40 USD)... so can someone clue me
in?  The only person I KNOW who knows about these machines is somewhere in
Hamilton Ontario an I have no idea what her name is ...

I am just geaked about all the fancy hem feet it has ... WHEE ...  

- Lil (ooh!ber-geek wanna-be ;)


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From: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Lounge Wear
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 11:07:56 +1100
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Hmm, now let me see:

I have a couple of full-length, heavyweight white towelling ones; and

A very lightweight satin one with The Phantom printed all over it (good for
travelling when you know the hotel won't have big, heavyweight white
towelling ones).

In the past, I have had both Dior and Cardin cotton or cotton blend robes,
both of which were badly cut - why the hell can't Lagerfeld design one?

Some years back, I tried the cotton kimono thing but found it too hot even
in the half hour it takes to stumble out of bed, stare blearily at the
breakfast table, and fall into the shower.

I tend to wear slippers until they fall apart which is when they become
eligible for the Distressed Costume Box (actors should not be barefoot on
stage because stage managers are slack about sweeping the wings).

Some years back, I was given a huge, velvet smoking jacket with a patchwork
of velvet on the cuffs and lapels, a 1970s variant on the traditional
smoking jacket. I don't know what became of it, I will probably find it when
I move house some time in the future.

Flat-front men's trousers, similar to those that became popular in the
mid-1970s and in the early-1980s, have been around for years and are usually
referred to as lounge trousers in older tailoring manuals.

Back on the robes thing, it is surprising how many robe-like items I am
asked to make for boxers and wrestlers that have to be adjusted to suit
their entrance and presentation needs - future historians are gonna be
pretty confused about the true shape of the human body if they find some of
these!

So, there, you now know the contents of the back of my bedroom door. Can I
get off-a here and stare blearily at some coffee now?

-C.

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Slightly OT: Historical Sewing Machine Question
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Lil Sorepaws wrote:

> has from what I can see ALL the feet and
> attachements and about 10-12 special stitch wheels

My mom always called these "cams."  Mom's metal Kenmore is probably from 
the mid 60s.  It's olive green.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Slightly OT: Historical Sewing Machine Question
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Quoting Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue+dated+1094775519.158a8c@thibault.org>:

> Lil Sorepaws wrote:
> 
> > has from what I can see ALL the feet and
> > attachements and about 10-12 special stitch wheels
> 
> My mom always called these "cams."  Mom's metal Kenmore is probably from 
> the mid 60s.  It's olive green.

Yup,that is what they are called in the manual that came with the machine. I 
still have mine. It is still my work horse machine.
Wendy Colbert 
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From: "Danielle Nunn-Weinberg" <dannw@eudoramail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] I'm back and forthcoming books
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Greetings,

I'm finally back on the list after almost 2 months without much computer access.  I can now be reached at dannw@eudoramail.com or Danielle.Nunn-Weinberg@stud.man.ac.uk (I can only check this one on campus so I don't check it as frequently).

I was recently at a great little conference called: The Material Renaissance: Costs and Consumption in Italy 1400-1650 and found out about 2 forthcoming books.  The first is "Shopping in the Renaissance" by Evelyn Welch Due January 2005 from Yale Press and the other is "Secondhand Trade in Early Modern Venice" by Patricia Allerston due in the fall of 2005.  Both ladies were excellent speakers and their books should be interesting.

Cheers,
Danielle


Need a new email address that people can remember
Check out the new EudoraMail at
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Subject: [h-cost] Oops Link??? was Anne Boleyn
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Ooops link??  Did I miss it and erase a different note?  Could you post the
link again?

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of otsisto
> Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 3:19 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Anne Boleyn
> 
> Sorry , The link on "oops" will get you there.
> 
> De
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> 
> Rats, can't get the link to work and the search doesn't come up with
> anything for Boleyn....
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Today's term VS 1838
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Dawn,

I am glad you like this way of giving a definition for period term. I
received a book from an author and I loved the book.  She would explain new
terms in one chapter.  But if I didn't memorize it then, and the word was
used again in later chapters I was screwed and had to find the place in the
other chapter that it was explained.  So I decided when we started putting
online, that I would put in parentheses something someone could relate too.
Some words like "waist" mean something entirely different the 19th-early
20th centuries.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Slightly OT: Historical Sewing Machine Question
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The "wheels" were called cams, at least on my mother's old late 50's Singer.
There was a compartment on the top of the machine where you dropped the cam
in on a spindle; the ridges on the cams guided the machine to make the
decorative stitches.

I also still have my 1973 Kenmore (still works- two cabinets died in its
service).  It has a metal head.  In 1986, I bought a new Kenmore for the
good sewing, by then the heads were no longer metal.  I can't narrow it down
further than that.

Hope this helps,
                   -Helen/Aidan


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Subject: [h-cost] Slightly OT: Vintage Sewing Machine Question 
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Hi,

De-lurking to ask yet another stooopid question:

I just bought an OLD SEARS Roebuck table sewing machine with the "wheels"
for special stitches .. its a metal Kenmore in a dusty purple and white
enamel .. (I can take a photo)  has from what I can see ALL the feet and
attachements and about 10-12 special stitch wheels ... my question is
twofold:  Anyone have an idea of when sears stopped selling metal kenmores
and also what these machines are called (the ones with the pattern wheels
...)

Anyone in SE Michigan know how to use ?  It has most of the manuals and
instructions in it and aside from some dog eared corners and one corner
where it looks like their cat chewed on the manual, everything looks to be
almost MINT ... and the pictures in the manuals show a lady dressed in
what looks to me like 50's or 60's.. very tailored top and a tight waisted
full skirt  (think around or pre-poodle skirt - maybe early Laverne and
Shirly era?)

I got the table and chair (with little sewing caddy in the chair and
scissors etc) for darn near a steal ($40 USD)... so can someone clue me
in?  The only person I KNOW who knows about these machines is somewhere in
Hamilton Ontario an I have no idea what her name is ...

I am just geaked about all the fancy hem feet it has ... WHEE ...  

- Lil (ooh!ber-geek wanna-be ;)

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Hi Marc,

I put old and new in the text of the article.  All of my definitions are in
parentheses in the text.  Otherwise the text stays original.  We thought
about a glossary at one time, but it would turn into a fashion dictionary.
At this moment, I can't deal with building a fashion dictionary, an
encyclopedia, and color index all at one time. Need a few more lifetimes to
complete all that. Every day I sent out a daily fashion definition to our
Library subscribers.  I sometimes reference a new word that is in the new
Library articles.  The subscribers are advised that if they want to collect
the daily definitions in a Word document for their make their own personal
fashion dictionary.

I figure if I am getting frustrated going through three fashion dictionaries
to figure out these 1838 articles... how does someone feel who doesn't have
access to a fashion dictionary at all.

Angela Lazaar (on this email list) must collect our daily definitions
because when I come across a funny definition, she writes me back with some
funny or cute comments.  She brightens my day!  Sometimes I send out links
for more information about the definition.  This past week, one of the
definitions was about the history of department stores.  That newsletter
included links pointing to some of the popular department stores'  history
on their websites.   I learned just how big the May and Proffitts Companies
are... they seem to be swallowing up the industry.  Really amazing!  They
have been purchasing fashion companies left and right.  Another topic, worth
exploring.

As you can tell, not all the definitions are straight forward definitions.
Currently, I am reading a 200+ page book on the history of zippers.  As I
come across interesting facts, that might be the definition of the day.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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> If the kids don't have a robe, how do they get from the
> bathroom to their room to dress after a shower? -Megan

Even people I know who have bathrobes still sometimes just take their 
clothes into the bathroom and change directly into them there.

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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> But the bathrobe thing may be a regional variant; certainly everyone I
> know (except for my toddlers, who won't keep things on) has a bathrobe
> to wear around the house, or else they'd be cold!

Everyone I know has a bathrobe. Some have several. (I have a packable 
silky one which I can wear if I have to get to bed from the bathroom 
in front of roommates, two terrycloth ones, and several that only my 
husband gets to see. My husband has two. One is terry cloth and one 
is packable cotton.)

And that goes for people I've known all over the US (NC, Texas, 
California, NY, Montana, etc.)

My mother always had bathrobes and she must have had several. She met 
me and my date at the front door in the rattiest bathrobe I'd ever 
seen the only time I came in at 3am. (She'd never given me a curfew 
and I had no idea that she sat up waiting for me. She always looked 
sound asleep when I came in so I didn't call her to tell her that I'd 
be later than usual.)

It was a pink chenille floor length, which was literally ragged and 
faded. I had never seen it before and never saw it again after that 
night. 

I wonder if she had had it saved in the closet for just such an 
eventuality. Heaven only knows that she is/was as bad a pack rat as I 
am. But that's why I still have her late 1930's-early 1940's cocktail 
dress so I'm not going to complain.

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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> Myself, I would like to see the original terms used with the modern
> terms in parentheses next to it. Perhaps 'casualwear' or 'loungewear'.
> When I do costume searches I try to use words as historically correct
> as possible, because that is what I am looking for, but I appreciate
> seeing a definition next to new terminology.

I don't think I'd use "casual wear" as that sounds like street 
clothes. (But then, I've never understood why "sports wear" in the 
stores always turned out to be regular street wear and you had to go 
to a completely separate department which often had no name for 
jogging suits, exercise clothes and the like. Target has them in the 
shoe/bag department. Go figure!)

Loungewear sounds the best of the ones I've heard so far.

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 20:53:23 -0600
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Subject: [h-cost] Historical Sewing Machine Question
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Cams are the little wheels you put in the machine to make it do
different stitches. That was the only way to achieve these stitches
before the electronic (computerized) machines.

Some machine had cams built in, and you moved a switch to change from
one to the other. Some machines had so many different cams, you had to
physically put them in and take them out to change stitches.

About all those nifty presser feet--they may very well fit your current
sewing machine. Sometimes you can buy an adapter to make them fit.

Kim


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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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References: <4.3.1.2.20040312194651.05dce8c0@mail.frys.com><4.3.1.2.20040313003029.062b1990@mail.frys.com><018401c408e1$f45a29f0$0200a8c0@MOM>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lounge Wear
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 21:48:24 -0500
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I thought long about this last night and I think I have figured out for the
lack of robes in my area.  Now this will sound funny but in our area, it is
a fashion to have homes with the curtains drawn open at all times.  Some
people do not even have curtains. I've noticed this fashion in Williamsburg
too.  People may have shades they pull in their bedroom at night.  The
houses in my neighborhood at Colonial style.  I can drive down the street at
night and see into everyone's bottom floor of their house.  In my house the
only room that has covering over the window full time is the main bathroom.
So maybe this is why people don't wear robes or PJs around the house in our
area.  I can pull up in my driveway at night and tell who is eating at the
dinner table.

I remember a long time ago someone from h-costume came to visit and we drove
all around the fan and Monument Ave. (historic area of town) at night
looking in house windows from the street admiring the decor inside.  At
Christmas time, some people even put flood lights outside shining on their
house to where you can see inside better.  I believe Susan, my asst., did
this tour with me too.  During the day, it is hard to see inside the house,
but at night it is beautiful.

We always had curtains on our windows until we moved into this neighborhood
seven years ago.  I have no idea where this tradition started.  Carol lives
in Northern VA, maybe she has some insight or maybe some of our Tidewater
h-costumers.  I do remember some of the older neighborhoods in DC do this
too.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar 13 22:19:29 2004
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Lounge Wear
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 19:19:55 -0800
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Well...
  The door to my room is only a step or two from the bathroom, so I've
developed a "quick look" and fast step.  Of course it helps that the
household is usually female (Snoopy the cat doesn't seem to care.  He just
blinks and looks bored!).  For those days when my housemate's fiance is
around, he just has to learn to avert his eyes :-)

	I also have a large flannel sheet that I can wrap around me like a toga or
sari.  It doubles as a towel, and works when I have to answer the door bell
for the mail carrier.

>
> Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey
Never attribute to malice what can as easily
be attributed to simple social ineptness

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of kat@grendal.rain.com
> Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 6:27 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Lounge Wear
>
>
>
> > If the kids don't have a robe, how do they get from the
> > bathroom to their room to dress after a shower? -Megan
>
> Even people I know who have bathrobes still sometimes just take their
> clothes into the bathroom and change directly into them there.
>
> Kat
> <kat@redtrollforge.com>


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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] I'm back and forthcoming books
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 18:32:28 -0700
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Very interesting...your note goes into my saved file...thanks for the info

Sg

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Danielle Nunn-Weinberg
> Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2004 1:21 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] I'm back and forthcoming books
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> I'm finally back on the list after almost 2 months without much computer
access.  I
> can now be reached at dannw@eudoramail.com or Danielle.Nunn-
> Weinberg@stud.man.ac.uk (I can only check this one on campus so I don't
check it
> as frequently).
> 
> I was recently at a great little conference called: The Material
Renaissance: Costs
> and Consumption in Italy 1400-1650 and found out about 2 forthcoming
books.
> The first is "Shopping in the Renaissance" by Evelyn Welch Due January
2005
> from Yale Press and the other is "Secondhand Trade in Early Modern Venice"
by
> Patricia Allerston due in the fall of 2005.  Both ladies were excellent
speakers and
> their books should be interesting.
> 
> Cheers,
> Danielle
> 
> 
> Need a new email address that people can remember
> Check out the new EudoraMail at
> http://www.eudoramail.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] No Window coverings, Was:  Lounge Wear
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 19:32:03 -0800
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Status: RO

When I was in the Netherlands and Belgium several years ago I noticed the
same tendency to have the curtains open at least during the day.  I
commented on it to an old lady who had taken us in and was treating us like
kin.  Her explanation was that pulling the curtains or shades during the day
was tantamount to proclaiming you were a terrible housekeeper and were
ashamed to have anyone see inside.   Even when they had lace curtains on the
windows they were looped back during the day.  Also the front steps were
scrubbed and the walkway in front of the house swept every day.  Houseproud
we used to call it in the US.



Wanda Pease
"All I want is a warm bed, a kind word and unlimited power".

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
> Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 6:48 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lounge Wear
>
>
> I thought long about this last night and I think I have figured
> out for the
> lack of robes in my area.  Now this will sound funny but in our
> area, it is
> a fashion to have homes with the curtains drawn open at all times.  Some
> people do not even have curtains. I've noticed this fashion in
> Williamsburg
> too.  People may have shades they pull in their bedroom at night.  The
> houses in my neighborhood at Colonial style.  I can drive down
> the street at
> night and see into everyone's bottom floor of their house.  In my
> house the
> only room that has covering over the window full time is the main
> bathroom.
> So maybe this is why people don't wear robes or PJs around the
> house in our
> area.  I can pull up in my driveway at night and tell who is eating at the
> dinner table.
>


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Today's term VS 1838
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Penny Ladnier wrote:

> I figure if I am getting frustrated going through three fashion dictionaries
> to figure out these 1838 articles... how does someone feel who doesn't have
> access to a fashion dictionary at all.

Very glad for those semesters of French in college. I've been looking up 
fashion items from the mid to late 1800's myself, and English sources 
are no help. Many of the words are French and are still in use in that 
language, even if the meaning may have changed slightly, at least I 
think I am figuring it out properly.

For example, I had no idea what a 'pardessus' was until I found a French 
clothing catalog with a man's overcoat listed under that term. I think 
it was actually used as a woman's overcoat in period, but none of my 
English sources even had the word listed.



Dawn



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Dawn,

I am actually considering taking some French classes at a community college
for the very reason you stated.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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Thank you so much Wendy and Karen for the translation!

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com

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From: Lil Sorepaws <sorepaws@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Still Slightly OT:  Cam Sewing Machine (THANKS)
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Thanks everyone for answering .. I looked through all the little
attachement and goodies that came with it when I was dusting and wiping
down the chair .. and this thing has over 25 fancy stitches and almost 2
dozen different FEET!!!  From what I can see the machine was maybe used
once or twice, there is no wear at all on any of the parts including the
foot control ... My mom was looking it over and was totally enthralled - I
had planned to give it to a friend of mine at cost who was looking for a
sewing machine and mom was like "No, you're keeping this one!" LOL  ... We
will probably be testing it out tomorrow  ... oy!

Anyways, if anyone has tips or tricks or advice for it .. its much
appreciated and you're welcome to take it offlist to sorepaws@yahoo.com ;)

Thanks again and one of these days I will actually post something
historical (as opposed to hysterical) that I've made ...

- Lil (a little loopy today ;) 
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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Slightly OT: Historical Sewing Machine Question
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 18:26:38 -0700
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It's funny to see these referred to as historical...but you are right they
are....
I just bought one myself.  I was trying to replace the one my father taught
me to sew on back in the mid 60's.  I have been soooooo disappointed in my
Viking #1.  I just bought my Kenmore for 75$.  It still works like a champ.
It makes perfect button holes every-time!    They are kind of like old
cars.....Kept in good condition, it will last several lifetimes I am sure.
Congratulations on a great purchase!




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It's the first picture.

De

-----Original Message-----
Anne Boleyn

http://www.kunstkopie.de/static/kuenstler/Englisch--3161.html

Has anyone seen this portrait before?

De
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Mar 14 08:28:29 2004
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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20040313234346.42037.qmail@web12505.mail.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Slightly OT: Historical Sewing Machine Question
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 08:29:42 -0500
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When you say wheels do you mean 'cams"?  My previous machine, model 1939,
purchased about1974, is one of the last metal machines by Kenmore of which I
am aware.  It is still going reasonably well. I replaced it only because it
was beginning to need new parts that are difficult to find. I love the
buttonholer also.  Especially need to do 10 or more identical! It is still
my main backup to the Pfaff.  I have bought two other Kenmores for my
daughters, who are still somewhat ambivalent re sewing for repair and
creativity.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lil Sorepaws" <sorepaws@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 6:43 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Slightly OT: Historical Sewing Machine Question


> Hi,
>
> De-lurking to ask yet another stooopid question:
>
> I just bough an OLD SEARS Roebuck table sewing machine with the "wheels"
> for special stitches .. its a metal Kenmore in a dusty purple and white
> enamel .. (I can take a photo)  has from what I can see ALL the feet and
> attachements and about 10-12 special stitch wheels ... my question is
> twofold:  Anyone have an idea of when sears stopped selling metal kenmores
> and also what these machines are called (the ones with the pattern wheels
> ...)
>
> Anyone in SE Michigan know how to use ?  It has most of the manuals and
> instructions in it and aside from some dog eared corners and one corner
> where it looks like their cat chewed on the manual, everything looks to be
> almost MINT ... and the pictures in the manuals show a lady dressed in
> what looks to me like 50's or 60's.. very tailored top and a tight waisted
> full skirt  (think around or pre-poodle skirt - maybe early Laverne and
> Shirly era?)
>
> I got the table and chair (with little sewing caddy in the chair and
> scissors etc) for darn near a steal ($40 USD)... so can someone clue me
> in?  The only person I KNOW who knows about these machines is somewhere in
> Hamilton Ontario an I have no idea what her name is ...
>
> I am just geaked about all the fancy hem feet it has ... WHEE ...
>
> - Lil (ooh!ber-geek wanna-be ;)
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>


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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20040314020103.9287.qmail@web12502.mail.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Slightly OT: Vintage Sewing Machine Question 
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It is still  probably possible to get a whole manual from Sears Service
Center (Atlanta) One thing I have found, that as far as manuals go, theirs
is quite strait forward as a "how to do"... First off, it was written in
English off the bat, and not 'translated' by a non English speaking tech. My
machine head is ivory colored. One of the other ones is the olive green
model.  What is the model number?  Sears SC can date yours by that number.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lil Sorepaws" <sorepaws@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 9:01 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Slightly OT: Vintage Sewing Machine Question


> Hi,
>
> De-lurking to ask yet another stooopid question:
>
> I just bought an OLD SEARS Roebuck table sewing machine with the "wheels"
> for special stitches .. its a metal Kenmore in a dusty purple and white
> enamel .. (I can take a photo)  has from what I can see ALL the feet and
> attachements and about 10-12 special stitch wheels ... my question is
> twofold:  Anyone have an idea of when sears stopped selling metal kenmores
> and also what these machines are called (the ones with the pattern wheels
> ...)
>
> Anyone in SE Michigan know how to use ?  It has most of the manuals and
> instructions in it and aside from some dog eared corners and one corner
> where it looks like their cat chewed on the manual, everything looks to be
> almost MINT ... and the pictures in the manuals show a lady dressed in
> what looks to me like 50's or 60's.. very tailored top and a tight waisted
> full skirt  (think around or pre-poodle skirt - maybe early Laverne and
> Shirly era?)
>
> I got the table and chair (with little sewing caddy in the chair and
> scissors etc) for darn near a steal ($40 USD)... so can someone clue me
> in?  The only person I KNOW who knows about these machines is somewhere in
> Hamilton Ontario an I have no idea what her name is ...
>
> I am just geaked about all the fancy hem feet it has ... WHEE ...
>
> - Lil (ooh!ber-geek wanna-be ;)
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Mar 14 08:41:33 2004
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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20040314020103.9287.qmail@web12502.mail.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Slightly OT: Vintage Sewing Machine Question 
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Status: RO

By hem feet, do you mean the cams or the 'Feet"? The cams are more
than for hemming. When I first got mine, I did decorative borders 4-8" deep
on skirts.  I also used them to make embroidered ribbon for other trims.
Read the manual for the settings of the kind of cams you are using, adjust
the knobs accordingly and go to it!
Kathleen ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lil Sorepaws" <sorepaws@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 9:01 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Slightly OT: Vintage Sewing Machine Question


> Hi,
>
> De-lurking to ask yet another stooopid question:
>
> I just bought an OLD SEARS Roebuck table sewing machine with the "wheels"
> for special stitches .. its a metal Kenmore in a dusty purple and white
> enamel .. (I can take a photo)  has from what I can see ALL the feet and
> attachements and about 10-12 special stitch wheels ... my question is
> twofold:  Anyone have an idea of when sears stopped selling metal kenmores
> and also what these machines are called (the ones with the pattern wheels
> ...)
>
> Anyone in SE Michigan know how to use ?  It has most of the manuals and
> instructions in it and aside from some dog eared corners and one corner
> where it looks like their cat chewed on the manual, everything looks to be
> almost MINT ... and the pictures in the manuals show a lady dressed in
> what looks to me like 50's or 60's.. very tailored top and a tight waisted
> full skirt  (think around or pre-poodle skirt - maybe early Laverne and
> Shirly era?)
>
> I got the table and chair (with little sewing caddy in the chair and
> scissors etc) for darn near a steal ($40 USD)... so can someone clue me
> in?  The only person I KNOW who knows about these machines is somewhere in
> Hamilton Ontario an I have no idea what her name is ...
>
> I am just geaked about all the fancy hem feet it has ... WHEE ...
>
> - Lil (ooh!ber-geek wanna-be ;)
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>


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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Today's term VS 1838
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Status: RO

But Victorians did not 'lounge' in the way we do now. No one has mentioned
'penoir' as one of the equivocal terms for these sorts of dressed down
garments. It comes closer to the idea of 'demi dress', but puts the garment
firmly in the 'only-to-wear-in-the-bedroom/boudoir mode.
When I think of lounge wear, it can be worn on the back porch or patio,
relaxing, or receiving guests ...One wouldn't wear it to the mall or to
someone else's house to visit.
I gather from my own study of the myriad garments used in the 19th C, that
there were 'upstairs' clothes and 'downstairs clothes'.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <kat@grendal.rain.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 9:26 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Today's term VS 1838


>
> > Myself, I would like to see the original terms used with the modern
> > terms in parentheses next to it. Perhaps 'casualwear' or 'loungewear'.
> > When I do costume searches I try to use words as historically correct
> > as possible, because that is what I am looking for, but I appreciate
> > seeing a definition next to new terminology.
>
> I don't think I'd use "casual wear" as that sounds like street
> clothes. (But then, I've never understood why "sports wear" in the
> stores always turned out to be regular street wear and you had to go
> to a completely separate department which often had no name for
> jogging suits, exercise clothes and the like. Target has them in the
> shoe/bag department. Go figure!)
>
> Loungewear sounds the best of the ones I've heard so far.
>
> Kat
> <kat@redtrollforge.com>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
>


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Another thing to remember about Kenmore appliances, including sewing
machines, is that Sears never manufactured these. They commissioned them
from other manufacturers, made to their specifications.

So your old Kenmore could have been made by White or Brother or who
knows? Would be interesting to find out.

Kim

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> I thought long about this last night and I think I have figured out
> for the lack of robes in my area.  Now this will sound funny but in
> our area, it is a fashion to have homes with the curtains drawn open
> at all times.  Some people do not even have curtains. I've noticed
> this fashion in Williamsburg too.  People may have shades they pull in
> their bedroom at night.  The houses in my neighborhood at Colonial
> style.  I can drive down the street at night and see into everyone's
> bottom floor of their house.  In my house the only room that has
> covering over the window full time is the main bathroom. So maybe this
> is why people don't wear robes or PJs around the house in our area.  I
> can pull up in my driveway at night and tell who is eating at the
> dinner table.

You obviously must not have much problem with voyeurs or peepers.

I guess most people I know have enough security concerns that they 
have very good curtains. I don't think they want the neighbors to 
know what they were doing.

Frankly, I think I'd be more likely to wear a robe (and the nicest 
one I could find) if I didn't keep the drapes drawn.

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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You're welcome.  I'm just glad to be back on H-Costume, I was suffereing from serious withdrawl. : )

Cheers,
Danielle

--------- Original Message ---------

From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>

>Very interesting...your note goes into my saved file...thanks for the info
>
>Sg



Need a new email address that people can remember
Check out the new EudoraMail at
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I have one theory. In heraldic terms, chef is, I believe, the top band of
the device/shield (I'm not a herald). So I think it could just simply mean a
gold band. What exactly this would be made of, or how, I have no idea.

Chef, in French, means "head" (as in chief or boss, or literally as the body
part, such as in the word "couvre-chef" -> head covering)

> Quoting Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com>:
>
> > Again from the 1838 London fashion report... it is a French word *chef
d'or*.
> >  Does anyone know what this means?  I can't find it in my three fashion
> > dictionaries.
> >
> > Here is the sentence it is used in:
> >
> > White shawls with white fringe are perhaps the most distingue; but azure
> > blue, or pearl grey shawls trimmed with white fringe - we mean, of
course,
> > the poil de Cachemere - are very elegant, particularly when a chef d'or
is
> > placed between the fringe and the shawl.
> >
> >
> > Penny E. Ladnier
> > Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> > www.costumegallery.com
> > www.costumeclassroom.com
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
>
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And dressing in this time period was never 'casual'. You were either
Dressed, or undressed. I think that class consciousness kicks in here.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <kat@grendal.rain.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 9:26 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Today's term VS 1838


>
> > Myself, I would like to see the original terms used with the modern
> > terms in parentheses next to it. Perhaps 'casualwear' or 'loungewear'.
> > When I do costume searches I try to use words as historically correct
> > as possible, because that is what I am looking for, but I appreciate
> > seeing a definition next to new terminology.
>
> I don't think I'd use "casual wear" as that sounds like street
> clothes. (But then, I've never understood why "sports wear" in the
> stores always turned out to be regular street wear and you had to go
> to a completely separate department which often had no name for
> jogging suits, exercise clothes and the like. Target has them in the
> shoe/bag department. Go figure!)
>
> Loungewear sounds the best of the ones I've heard so far.
>
> Kat
> <kat@redtrollforge.com>
>
>
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>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cam Sewing Machine\
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I vaguely remember that when I bought mine, that the clerk suggested that
the head was made by 'White".
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "kim baird" <kbaird@cableone.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2004 9:57 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Cam Sewing Machine\


>
>
> Another thing to remember about Kenmore appliances, including sewing
> machines, is that Sears never manufactured these. They commissioned them
> from other manufacturers, made to their specifications.
>
> So your old Kenmore could have been made by White or Brother or who
> knows? Would be interesting to find out.
>
> Kim
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>


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Subject: [h-cost] FW: Re:  Carmelite Habit
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-----Original Message-----

> Message: 7
> Date: Thu, 04 Mar 2004 22:50:11 -0800
> From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Carmelite Habit
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <4.3.1.2.20040304224725.05a53e20@mail.frys.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
>
>
> Wow, thanks.  Is there a book about this?  An online resource?  I don't
> know where to start asking questions.  I guess what I want is a dress-able
> doll wearing all the parts, and the book of the history and description to
> go with it.  Failing which, I can probably go ask at the same nunnery that
> Carmelite lived in.
>
>
>         CarolynKayta Barrows
> dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
>           www.FunStuft.com <www.FunStuft.com>


Actually there is a book.  I am a little behind on my digests, so someone
else may have answered this already, but I am currently reading The Habit:
A History of Clothing of Catholic Nuns, a book by Elisabeth Kuhns.  It is
highly intersting with regards to the history of the habit of various
Orders and the different elements of the habit.  Many pictures, too.  They
still make the "Nun Dolls" and paper dress up dolls as well, I think I
googled on "nuns habit" and came up with a number of interesting links
(for example www.nunshabits.com <www.nunshabits.com>  a Franciscan site.

Bettina




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From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
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Hello list,

I wrote an e-mail earlier today and sent some pictures as attachments.  I
haven't seen my post come up....is sending pictures bad?  Does a moderator
have to approve of them before the post comes up or did it go into
electronic wasteland?

I don't have a website that I can point people to so all I could do was
send pictures along with the e-mail.  Does anybody have an idea on how I
could still let the group see the pictures if I can't send them with my
e-mail?

BTW, the post is regarding buttoned/cotehardie sleeves and I took a
picture of my pattern, a finished sleeve, and a statue with buttoned
sleeves as reference.

Thanks!

Diana


-- 
Diana Habra
www.renaissancefabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"
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From: "Megan M." <megan@benchite.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Slightly OT: Historical Sewing Machine Question
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 23:19:55 -0500
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There is an entire list devoted to people who use old Kenmore sewing
machines on yahoo.  It is the vintagekenmoresew list.  I bet someone there
knows all about your machine.
-Megan

Lil Sorepaws wrote:
I just bough an OLD SEARS Roebuck table sewing machine with the "wheels"
for special stitches .. its a metal Kenmore in a dusty purple and white
enamel ..

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Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 22:13:16 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Wendi Dunlap-Simpson <litlnemo@slumberland.seattle.wa.us>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] moderated costuming site.
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At 4:56 PM +0000 3/12/04, Catalina Saravia Quicedo wrote:
>http://slumberland.org/moodle/course/view.php?id=5
>
>Alternative to AIPON

Wow, I didn't catch this message when it first came through.

The site referred to, MedCos, is my website. I set up a rough version 
of it last year with the intention of meeting the need that AIPON had 
demonstrated, but never really had a chance to enhance it. So I 
didn't advertise it much, and mostly just let it sit until I could 
think about what to do with it. :)

Anyway. Just in the last week some folks nudged me to enhance and 
promote the site a bit. So I have been working on it. (Just since 
Friday, even, the site has been quite a bit improved, I think. I got 
rid of the confusing old Garb Review section, for example, and 
replaced it with something a little easier to understand.) I've been 
recruiting moderators to help in the different areas, and we've all 
been adding content. The plan is to keep adding more content, and 
even scheduled activities. (Monday, March 15, at 7:00pm Eastern 
Standard Time, there is a scheduled chat about 14th Century 
costuming, and there will be more scheduled chats coming up.) It's 
not dormant anymore and it looks like things are starting to happen.

So... if you stumbled on the site a few months ago (when it was 
dormant) or even last week, look into it again, click around, see if 
you find anything helpful. If you think something is missing... post 
and tell us. We are gradually adding everything we can think of. :)

Thanks,
-- 
-- Wendi

*-----------------------+---------------------------------------+-------*
  \ Wendi Dunlap-Simpson | litlnemo at slumberland.seattle.wa.us | dear /
  / Seattle, Wash., USA  | http://www.slumberland.seattle.wa.us  |  23  \
*--"Somehow everything will be a little different than you thought"-----*
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Subject: [h-cost] Chief in Heraldry  was: Another question
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The "shield" is divided into 3 levels, the top one is called "chief", then
"fess", then "base"
It is interesting that they would call it chef. Surely if it was a gold
border, would they not have said border of gold?
Could the "band" of gold be a wrapping of gold thread or the metal gold
around the top of groups of fringe that created a "band" between the fabric
and the loose fringe of the shawl?
Having made shawls for dancing, there are several treatments that can be
done to the fringe.
There is also the question of whether the fringe is being made from the main
fabric threads or threads added to the main fabrics edge. If the latter,
perhaps the "band" covers where the fringe attaches to the fabric.

De

-----Original Message-----
I have one theory. In heraldic terms, chef is, I believe, the top band of
the device/shield (I'm not a herald). So I think it could just simply mean a
gold band. What exactly this would be made of, or how, I have no idea.

Chef, in French, means "head" (as in chief or boss, or literally as the body
part, such as in the word "couvre-chef" -> head covering)


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] No Window coverings, Was:  Lounge Wear
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Wanda wrote:

>>> wandap@hevanet.com 14/03/04 03:32:03 >>>
When I was in the Netherlands and Belgium several years ago I noticed
the
same tendency to have the curtains open at least during the day.  

When I visited the Netherlands 30 years ago we were told that Dutch
people habitually left their curtains open after dark.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby
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>>> rmitchell@washjeff.edu 13/03/04 23:08:12 >>>
Ah, but there is a difference between a bathrobe and a dressing gown.
Kathleen
-
Is there? I thought "bathrobe" was the American term for what we
British call a dressing gown.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby
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Well, I watched "Gunpowder, Treason and Plot" last night and thought it
wasn't too bad (all the Elizabethan experts will probably disagree).
However, the author did say he had taken some liberties with historical
fact, but I wondered why he had left out some of the most dramatic
elements of the story. It's well known that Mary was heavily pregnant at
the time of Rizzio's murder, but here she only announced her pregnancy
some time later, after a good deal of galloping about on horseback.




Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby
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Subject: [h-cost] Searching for pictures of a gown in a finnish museum...
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Good afternoon from Germany all together,
I recently stumbled over a picture of a fabulous bustle gown. See it here:
http://www.nba.fi/fi/skm_tiedotusvalineille_kuvat
second image down, Baroness Leonie Doubitsky, née Rehbinder's silver-grey
bustle gown.
Apparently, this gown is in the "Museovirasto" in Helsinki, shown in an
exhibit called "Naisten juhlaa" (Women in Gala, 7.1.-9.5.2004) .
My question now: Is, by chance, anyone here on this list who visited this
exhibit and took more pictures of this wonderful gown? Or will someone
visit this exhibit and would take some pictures?
I so fell in love with that gown, I would like to reproduce it for a
historic ball to be held here in Germany... and more pictures of the
original one can help a lot... and any help in getting such pictures would,
of course, be highly appreciated.
Best wishes,
Sabine

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Kate M Bunting wrote:

>  
>
>>>>rmitchell@washjeff.edu 13/03/04 23:08:12 >>>
>>>>        
>>>>
>Ah, but there is a difference between a bathrobe and a dressing gown.
>Kathleen
>-
>Is there? I thought "bathrobe" was the American term for what we
>British call a dressing gown.
>
>Kate Bunting
>Library, University of Derby
>  
>
In my corner of the US (which is really still Michigan, even though I 
live in California now) a bathrobe is either what you wear instead of 
streaking from the shower or it is something you wear over your pajamas 
for extra warmth. I have one garment that serves both purposes. I call 
it a bathrobe.
When I hear 'dressing gown' I think of something that people in the past 
wore around the house (esp. in old movies) instead of getting all the 
way dressed. I don't think of it as a current term.

liz young

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From: "Kendra Van Cleave" <kendra@tweedlebop.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <016501c40aa3$4f66ca20$ba4751d9@hatchling>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Searching for pictures of a gown in a finnish museum...
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 10:36:45 -0800
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You might try writing the museum to find out if any photos of the gown have
been published in any books or catalogs.  Museums also sometimes have image
departments that will sell you slides of items from their collections.

That dress is gorgeous!

- Kendra
http://demode.tweedlebop.com/

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From: "Lisa Sinervo" <Lisa-list@thrednedlestrete.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] problem with my post
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Diana,

I don't think this list allows attachments.  Can you post it to an orpan
page in www.renaissancefabrics.net.  I'd be interested in seeing them.

Lisa Sinervo

----- Original Message -----
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 14, 2004 7:31 PM
Subject: [h-cost] problem with my post


> Hello list,
>
> I wrote an e-mail earlier today and sent some pictures as attachments.  I
> haven't seen my post come up....is sending pictures bad?  Does a moderator
> have to approve of them before the post comes up or did it go into
> electronic wasteland?
>
> I don't have a website that I can point people to so all I could do was
> send pictures along with the e-mail.  Does anybody have an idea on how I
> could still let the group see the pictures if I can't send them with my
> e-mail?
>
> BTW, the post is regarding buttoned/cotehardie sleeves and I took a
> picture of my pattern, a finished sleeve, and a statue with buttoned
> sleeves as reference.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Diana
>
>
> --
> Diana Habra
> www.renaissancefabrics.net
> "Everything for the Costumer"
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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From: "Brandy Deming" <queenscorner@verizon.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Boot Patterns 
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Any one have any good leather boot patterns?

brandy
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Mar 15 16:26:44 2004
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Brandy Deming wrote:

> Any one have any good leather boot patterns?
> 

You might try these:

http://talbotsfineaccessories.com/books/footwear.html


I have the shoe 'booklet'. It's basic, but it looks workable. I bought 
it more for reference than anything, haven't tried my hand at 
leatherwork yet.



Dawn



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In a message dated 3/15/2004 1:43:08 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
kendra@tweedlebop.com writes:

> That dress is gorgeous!
> 

Yes, it is right good, isn't it? Also the 1850s gown....although the dress 
maker didn't match the plaid...which is NOT a tartan. A tartan must be the same 
stripes warp and weft. Still, a lov-er-ly gown...and shawl!

The other dresses are worth a peek too. Great quality and large photos for 
downloading to your files.
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Did anyone from this list send me a 34K attachment, or is it a virus? It says it's from indra.com Naturally I haven't opened it
Carol



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Subject: [h-cost] Is anyone going to the Bath Ball this year?
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Greetings,

I've decided to treat myself to something fun so I decided to go to the Bath ball, now that I am in this country.  http://www.bathminuetcompany.freeserve.co.uk/

Anyway, I was wondering if anyone else is going this year?  Bjarne? Stevie?  I was hoping that there might be someone I know from H-Costume...of course I have to start my outfit as soon as I can find some fabric...<G>.  I hope someone is going.  Also can someone recommend a nice but inexpensive B&B in Bath? 

Cheers,
Danielle


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Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 18:20:33 -0800 (PST)
From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Chief in Heraldry  was: Another question
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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--- otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
> The "shield" is divided into 3 levels, the top one
> is called "chief", 
> It is interesting that they would call it chef.
> Surely if it was a gold
> border, would they not have said border of gold?

It's fairly common to refer to the attaching part of a
fringe as the head of the fringe, iirc.


Ann in CT

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I've gotten the impression that Bjarne is going.
I'd love to attend sometime, as I didn't get to see the Assembly Rooms
when I was in Bath ;o(
Sorry I can't recommend a B&B...we stayed with friends who were locals.
*sigh*  Bath is so beautiful....
--sue, wishing for another color outside her window besides "Montana in 
March"....

Danielle Nunn-Weinberg wrote:

> Greetings,
> 
> I've decided to treat myself to something fun so I decided to go to
> the Bath ball, now that I am in this country.
> http://www.bathminuetcompany.freeserve.co.uk/
> 
> Anyway, I was wondering if anyone else is going this year?  Bjarne?
> Stevie?  I was hoping that there might be someone I know from
> H-Costume...of course I have to start my outfit as soon as I can find
> some fabric...<G>.  I hope someone is going.  Also can someone
> recommend a nice but inexpensive B&B in Bath?
> 
> Cheers, Danielle

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Subject: [h-cost] 14th cent surcote/dress question
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Hi everyone,

I am a new subscriber to your list, but I have used the archives for a long 
time to gain from your excellent expertise in some things. Now I have joined 
the list, since I have a specific question and I know the people who could 
possibly answer this question are on this list.

I am looking into open surcotes in the 14th century. I have recently come 
across the images of Blanche de Valois and Joanna von Pfirt (statues on the 
facade of the Stefansdom in Vienna, ~1365). Both ladies appear to wear a 
very interesting garment, which could be anything between an embroidered 
dress and an open surcote worn over a kirtle/supportive layer, except for 
the fact that their heavily ornamented belt seems to go over the entire 
dress, not under as you would expect if it was an open surcote. Stella Mary 
Newton describes these dresses as one layer, with a gathered skirt and a 
seam which is hidden by the belt. The image of Joanna von Pfirt's statue 
clearly shows the extended "embroidery/plastron decoration?" of the bodice 
below the belt, something I would expect from an open surcote (i.e. statue 
of Jeanne de Bourbon).

Does anyone have an opinion or more information on those dresses (Blanche's 
statue is rather worn)? Or has seen the statues in person and could shed 
some light on the problem? I'd be grateful for any information or 
suggestions.

Thanks,

Caithlinn

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is anyone going to the Bath Ball this year?
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
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> Greetings,
>
> I've decided to treat myself to something fun so I decided to go to the
> Bath ball, now that I am in this country.
> http://www.bathminuetcompany.freeserve.co.uk/
>
> Anyway, I was wondering if anyone else is going this year?  Bjarne?
> Stevie?  I was hoping that there might be someone I know from
> H-Costume...of course I have to start my outfit as soon as I can find some
> fabric...<G>.  I hope someone is going.  Also can someone recommend a nice
> but inexpensive B&B in Bath?

Can't help with going to the dance (I'm on the wrong side of the pond) but
I can help with the B & B.  When I was there 4-ish years ago, I stayed at
a place called Ashley House.  It is at 8 Pulteney Gardens in Bath and was
a short walk from the downtown area.  The people were very nice and at the
time I went it was 40 pounds for a double occupancy room which I found
pretty reasonable.  Their telephone is (01225) 425027 (no, I am not that
good at memorizing, I just saved their business card).

I am very jealous that you get to go to this event because it sounds
absolutely fabulouse!  Have fun!

Diana

-- 
Diana Habra
www.renaissancefabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"
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> Diana,
>
> I don't think this list allows attachments.  Can you post it to an orpan
> page in www.renaissancefabrics.net.  I'd be interested in seeing them.
>
> Lisa Sinervo
>

Dear List,

I didn't program my own website so I have no idea how to do that :~<

But I did send the message to Lisa V and Lisa S to their home e-mail
accounts.  I have reproduced the text of my message below and if anyone
else would like me to send them the pictures, e-mail me at
dch@inreach.com.

***********

Hello list,

I am sorry for the less-than-timely response to this but my scanner wasn't
working.  Now that it is, I would like to share my version of buttoned
sleeves or what I call the "cotehardie sleeve".

I struggled with how to make these for years and then I saw a picture in
"The Visual History of Costume" (a great book, btw) that changed how I
looked at the sleeves. (see picture #1)

 What I saw was that there wasn't a seam that continued up from where the
buttoned area ended.  This stumped me because I had always thought that
the sleeves had a seam that ran from halfway down the back of the
armsceye to the outer part of the wrist and the buttons ran along the
seam.  Instead, however, I tried using a regular sleeve pattern with a
triangular opening at the outer wrist area.  (see picture #2)

I used a facing in the opening and put buttons and button holes over the
double layer of fabric.  The sleeves were tight on the lower arm and loose
on the upper arm so that you could still move your arms. (see picture #3
for an example)

These sleeves don't have to be cut on the bias to work and there is no
real fanciness that needs to happen.  Take a look and give it a try.  And
I hope it works as well for you as it does for me.

Diana

-- 
Diana Habra
www.renaissancefabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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On Mon, 15 Mar 2004, Diana Habra wrote:

> But I did send the message to Lisa V and Lisa S to their home e-mail
> accounts.  I have reproduced the text of my message below and if
> anyone else would like me to send them the pictures, e-mail me at
> dch@inreach.com.

I'd like to see the pix but would prefer not to get attachments with them.
Is there someone on the list who would be willing to post them for the
rest of us to see?

>  What I saw was that there wasn't a seam that continued up from where
> the buttoned area ended.  This stumped me because I had always thought
> that the sleeves had a seam that ran from halfway down the back of the
> armsceye to the outer part of the wrist and the buttons ran along the
> seam.

It's worth noting that art from this period is neither scrupulous nor
consistent about indicating seams. However, I also like the idea of a
solid piece at the outside of the upper arm, and so I too cut the sleeve
so that it is solid at the top and splits to create the button opening
along the outside of the arm, while having a full-length seam along the
inside of the arm.

I expect there's more than one way to do these sleeves, and most likely it
was done in more than one way in the period. I've done two or three
sleeves that work and are probably all consistent with the minimal amount
of evidence we have, yet are all quite different from one another.

(Anyone who saw me in Springfield this past weekend: My model, Emilysue,
was wearing a dress I made about 15 years ago; it had a completely
different sleeve cut from the one on my own dress, which has the cut I
prefer at the moment. But I think from a distance they were both similar
in look.)

I look forward to seeing Diana's version. I wouldn't be surprised if it's
yet another approach I haven't stumbled on myself yet.

--Robin


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On Tue, 16 Mar 2004, Robin Netherton wrote:
> On Mon, 15 Mar 2004, Diana Habra wrote:
> > But I did send the message to Lisa V and Lisa S to their home e-mail
> > accounts.  I have reproduced the text of my message below and if
> > anyone else would like me to send them the pictures, e-mail me at
> > dch@inreach.com.
>
> I'd like to see the pix but would prefer not to get attachments with them.
> Is there someone on the list who would be willing to post them for the
> rest of us to see?

Sure, no problem! Diana, if you send me the pics
(ingridgs@techarea.net), I'll be happy to make them available. :)


Ingrid

-- 
This email has been scanned for viruses & spam by Decna as - www.decna.no
Denne E-post er sjekket for virus & spam av Decna as - www.decna.no

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Subject: [h-cost] Calling Margo!
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Sorry for the 'bandwidth'--but I just realized that I seem to have misplaced the URL to order a pattern from Margo.
Also, does anyone know if Medieval Miscelliania put out a pattern of german mens' patterns to go along with the german's womans that it put out? 
Many thanks---
Albra 

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In a message dated 3/16/2004 8:54:02 AM Central Standard Time, 
albrakat7@yahoo.com writes:
Sorry for the 'bandwidth'--but I just realized that I seem to have misplaced 
the URL to order a pattern from Margo.
Also, does anyone know if Medieval Miscelliania put out a pattern of german 
mens' patterns to go along with the german's womans that it put out? 
Many thanks---
Albra 


www.margospatterns.com

I don't know about MM's german patterns, but Margo's Elizabethan Man patterns 
are fabulous!

-Tiff
"I have the right to remain silent ... I just don't have the ability."
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Subject: [h-cost] Pictures Dickens
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Hi,

I finally have some pictures of the Dickens evenr I went to.
The one in the red dress is me.
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Dickens/Dickens.html

Greetings,
        Deredere


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Calling Margo!
To: h-costume@indra.com
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I have no idea about the goings-on at Medieval Miscellania, but Margo's 
website is

www.margospatterns.com

Christine



In a message dated 3/16/2004 9:53:51 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
albrakat7@yahoo.com writes:
Sorry for the 'bandwidth'--but I just realized that I seem to have misplaced 
the URL to order a pattern from Margo.
Also, does anyone know if Medieval Miscelliania put out a pattern of german 
mens' patterns to go along with the german's womans that it put out? 
Many thanks---
Albra 
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Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 07:16:25 -0800 (PST)
From: KATHRYN WOLTERS <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Calling Margo!
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Thanks very much, both or you!
Albra

Tiffsewsstuff@aol.com wrote:
In a message dated 3/16/2004 8:54:02 AM Central Standard Time, 
albrakat7@yahoo.com writes:
Sorry for the 'bandwidth'--but I just realized that I seem to have misplaced 
the URL to order a pattern from Margo.
Also, does anyone know if Medieval Miscelliania put out a pattern of german 
mens' patterns to go along with the german's womans that it put out? 
Many thanks---
Albra 


www.margospatterns.com

I don't know about MM's german patterns, but Margo's Elizabethan Man patterns 
are fabulous!

-Tiff
"I have the right to remain silent ... I just don't have the ability."
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Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 07:36:33 -0800 (PST)
From: KATHRYN WOLTERS <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pictures Dickens
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Your whole ensemble looks wonderful, Deredere!
Albra

Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl> wrote:
Hi,

I finally have some pictures of the Dickens evenr I went to.
The one in the red dress is me.
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Dickens/Dickens.html

Greetings,
Deredere


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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Calling Margo!
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I sell the PP on my site and no there is no matching pattern. And so
everyone is aware there most likely never will be. MM has no plans for the
PP line because they concentrate so heavily on their tent and pavilion sales
and the PP doesn't interest them anymore.
=============================
Now open!
http://kristalori.com
=============================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Tiffsewsstuff@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2004 9:59 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Calling Margo!


> In a message dated 3/16/2004 8:54:02 AM Central Standard Time,
> albrakat7@yahoo.com writes:
> Sorry for the 'bandwidth'--but I just realized that I seem to have
misplaced
> the URL to order a pattern from Margo.
> Also, does anyone know if Medieval Miscelliania put out a pattern of
german
> mens' patterns to go along with the german's womans that it put out?
> Many thanks---
> Albra
>
>
> www.margospatterns.com
>
> I don't know about MM's german patterns, but Margo's Elizabethan Man
patterns
> are fabulous!
>
> -Tiff
> "I have the right to remain silent ... I just don't have the ability."
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
_______________________________________________
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Oh and MM is at Gulf War. so they won't answer any emails for a bit.
=============================
Now open!
http://kristalori.com
=============================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Tiffsewsstuff@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2004 9:59 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Calling Margo!


> In a message dated 3/16/2004 8:54:02 AM Central Standard Time,
> albrakat7@yahoo.com writes:
> Sorry for the 'bandwidth'--but I just realized that I seem to have
misplaced
> the URL to order a pattern from Margo.
> Also, does anyone know if Medieval Miscelliania put out a pattern of
german
> mens' patterns to go along with the german's womans that it put out?
> Many thanks---
> Albra
>
>
> www.margospatterns.com
>
> I don't know about MM's german patterns, but Margo's Elizabethan Man
patterns
> are fabulous!
>
> -Tiff
> "I have the right to remain silent ... I just don't have the ability."
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
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From: "Agnes Gawne" <gawne@mac.com>
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Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 07:41:18 -0800
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Subject: [h-cost] Bath Ball - accomodations
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I have never attended the Ball but I did stay at a nice B&B in Bath that
would be handy to the ball...

Brock House B&B
32 Brock Street Bath BA1 2LN
Tel 011 44 1225 338374
Fax 011 44 1225 334245
http://www.brocksguesthouse.co.uk/

It is on the street that connects the Royal Circus to the Royal Crescent -
the assembly rooms are just off the Royal Crescent so it would be easy
walking distance to the ball.

Agnes

> Message: 6
> Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 01:10:13  0000
> From: "Danielle Nunn-Weinberg" <dannw@eudoramail.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] Is anyone going to the Bath Ball this year?
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <JLMEOAPFNLGILIAA@whowhere.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> Greetings,
>
> I've decided to treat myself to something fun so I decided to go to the
Bath ball, now that I am in this country.
http://www.bathminuetcompany.freeserve.co.uk/
>
> Anyway, I was wondering if anyone else is going this year?  Bjarne?
Stevie?  I was hoping that there might be someone I know from H-Costume...of
course I have to start my outfit as soon as I can find some fabric...<G>.  I
hope someone is going.  Also can someone recommend a nice but inexpensive
B&B in Bath?
>
> Cheers,
> Danielle
>
>


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>From: "Brandy Deming" <queenscorner@verizon.net>
>Any one have any good leather boot patterns?

What sort of boots are you looking for?

Marc

_________________________________________________________________
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Hi!
Here are the first pictures from the spring party i went to in Stockholm this weekend.
More to come soon!
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/spring_party_for_gustafs1.htm 

Bjarne



Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
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At 04:12 PM 3/11/2004, Arian wrote:

>There is a new theory that the Phoenicians were in "Americas" before Madoc.
>In that some archeologist believe that King Solomon's gold mines were
>located in Haiti and not Africa.
>Read a long article on how the length of time from Haiti to Jerusalem
>matched the records, the finding of old gold mines and other thing to prove
>their theory.

I'm not familiar with the Book of Mormon or other LDS sacred writings, but 
how do the dates on these compare to the dates they purport for their 
prophets and escapees landing in the New World?


Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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Subject: [h-cost] Housecoats, bathrobes, dressing gowns, loungewear...
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At Mon, 15 Mar 2004 10:02:23 +0000, Kate Bunting wrote:

>Ah, but there is a difference between a bathrobe and a dressing gown.
>Kathleen
>-
>Is there? I thought "bathrobe" was the American term for what we
>British call a dressing gown.

A "bath robe" is often just that -- a terrycloth kimono-style robe that you 
wear in, or going to-and-from, the bathroom, either because you expect to 
get your face wet (washing it, removing makeup, etc.) and might 
accidentally splash your clothes, or because you're going in to shower and 
will be too damp to dress before leaving the bathroom, or because you don't 
use a towel after showering.

A "housecoat" or "house robe" is often made of prettier material. It's main 
functions are (1) warmth in winter and (2) to hide one's nightclothes (or 
lack thereof) while lounging around the house, or in case one has to answer 
the door while not dressed (or otherwise wearing only underwear or 
nightclothes). In some areas of the United States, "housecoat", "house 
robe", and "bathrobe" all refer to a "house robe".

Also in some areas of the US, "housecoat" or "house robe" refers to an 
inexpensive, loose-fitting dress-like or coat-like garment worn primarily 
for doing housework in and/or working in a garden where the neighbors are 
unlikely to see you... though some "house dresses" (also sometimes 
synonymous) are nice enough that you can even wear them sitting out on the 
front porch (where the neighbors *are* likely to see you). This nicer sort 
of "house dress" often doubles as casual clothing.

When I hear the term "dressing gown" we tend to think of rich men in 
"smoking robes" with nothing underneath, or women who want to step out of 
bed into *something* en route to their dressing rooms to get dressed. I 
tend to associate these terms with social classes that don't have to worry 
about "house dresses" because there are servants to do the housework for them.

"Loungewear" as used in the US today refers to very pretty, unstructured 
garments that *can* be used to wear around the house, but are often 
designed with the idea of being relatively undressed while entertaining at 
home. They're usually structured a little more like sportswear, activewear, 
or exercise clothing than "house robes" are, with the exception of the 
"hostess gown" which is more like a very fancy "house robe". "Loungewear" 
can also be worn at breakfast and around the house when entertaining guests 
who have stayed overnight or who are staying for an extended period of time.

I think the evolution of "sportswear" into "casual attire" may have to do 
with our society adapting the most casual possible attire to a number of 
social situations (consider how social a golf course/club can be, or a polo 
club, or a tennis club...)  Without a locker room and/or place to shower 
and change, one has to wear one's specialized sports attire to and from the 
leisure-sporting venue -- hence, in the streets, and from there, to general 
acceptance. OTOH, as the sports have evolved and become competitive, and as 
the theory behind high performance in each sport has evolved, so has the 
attire for that sport. (Consider how "new" padded cycling shorts and 
tight-fitting jerseys with the pockets in *back* were 25 years ago -- or 
how quickly CoolMax<TM> has pervaded the performance sports attire market.) 
Because the garments and "look" associated with "sportswear" are already 
"set" to some degree in the public eye, new marketing terms evolve to refer 
to the more specialized, higher performance garments. "Active sportwear" -- 
later "activewear" was probably the first of these, referring to casual 
clothes that will permit the free movement of leisure-sporting activities 
done at leisurely paces. I think the current terms are "performance 
sportswear" and "performance activewear", with the latest-and-greatest 
designs for a sport known as "technical" garments (these are usually made 
of high-performance fibers such as CoolMax and its clones, e.g., Dri-Fit.)

OK, now that I've confused the issue even further...



Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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At Sat, 13 Mar 2004 22:58:40 -0600, Dawn wrote:

>For example, I had no idea what a 'pardessus' was until I found a French 
>clothing catalog with a man's overcoat listed under that term. I think it 
>was actually used as a woman's overcoat in period, but none of my English 
>sources even had the word listed.

Literally meaning "goes above/over", today I believe it refers specifically 
to a raincoat, with the usual "overcoat" being referred to as "manteau".


Brenda
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Hi,
I definately am going to the Bath Ball and have lots of fun, i have already the flight tickets, but i also have to find some acomodations.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

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Greetings and Salutations

We often have people asking about Silk Sources or Wool sources, but I am looking for something different.  Twill or Brushed Denim to be exact.  I am looking for a good source online for a variety of colors.  I am tired of taupe, olive, blue and black.  If you have any suggestions, I would appreciate it.

Thanks!
Kit
If you walk a mile in someone else's shoes, do you get to keep them? - Kenneth Cole
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The term sports wear turned into sportswear in the 1920s with the designer
Patou.  He was designing clothing for a famous tennis star.  The general
public loved her tennis outfits and Patou started designing the tennis
outfits for the general public. From this tennis star also started the trend
of wearing the head band with playing sports.  Patou designed her a bright
orange head band.  After this, several of the lady sports figure wanted
Patou to design for them. Patou is also responsible for the designer label
on the outside of garment.  He was the first designer to do this.  He would
have his initials embroidered on the outside of his sportswear.  Patou also
was the first designer to mass market his clothing to the general public.
There is a wonderful book that is out of print about Patou and his
accomplishments.  He was a great marketing genius.  I picked my book up on
eBay for $5.  You might find it on Amazon used books.

Sports wear is actually a garment to wear during sporting activities. It is
sometimes referred to as a uniform or activity wear. Sportswear is a dressy
casual wear in today's terms.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Twill or Brushed Denim
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
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> Greetings and Salutations
>
> We often have people asking about Silk Sources or Wool sources, but I am
> looking for something different.  Twill or Brushed Denim to be exact.  I
> am looking for a good source online for a variety of colors.  I am tired
> of taupe, olive, blue and black.  If you have any suggestions, I would
> appreciate it.
>

Kit,

I don't have any at the moment, but I plan to carry any good twill that I
can get my hands on.  It is one of my favorite fabrics to sew with and as
soon as I find some good stuff for a good price, I will have it on my
website.  So check back with me....

Diana

-- 
Diana Habra
www.renaissancefabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"
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Hi Bjarne,

Yay!  I really look forward to getting to meet you in person.  I haven't found accomodation yet either.  Where did you stay last year?

Cheers,
Danielle

>Hi,
>I definately am going to the Bath Ball and have lots of fun, i have already the flight tickets, but i also have to find some acomodations.
>
>Bjarne


Need a new email address that people can remember
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Bog dress & American colonies (OT)
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I just came upon this thread so I really have no idea what has been 
discussed in the past.  I found a crude timeline that lists the events in 
the Book of Mormon in relation to the birth of Christ.  I know I've seen 
better timelines then this, but this is the only one I could find right now.

http://www.mormonhaven.com/events.htm

:) jessica




>------------------------------
>
>Message: 10
>Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 17:19:44 -0500
>From: Brenda Bell <webwarren@earthlink.net>
>Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE: Bog dress & American colonies (OT)/Digest,
>	Vol 3, Issue 178
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Message-ID: <6.0.0.22.0.20040315171735.060f5008@earthlink.net>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
>
>At 04:12 PM 3/11/2004, Arian wrote:
>
> >There is a new theory that the Phoenicians were in "Americas" before 
>Madoc.
> >In that some archeologist believe that King Solomon's gold mines were
> >located in Haiti and not Africa.
> >Read a long article on how the length of time from Haiti to Jerusalem
> >matched the records, the finding of old gold mines and other thing to 
>prove
> >their theory.
>
>I'm not familiar with the Book of Mormon or other LDS sacred writings, but
>how do the dates on these compare to the dates they purport for their
>prophets and escapees landing in the New World?
>
>
>Brenda
>webwarren@earthlink.net
>

_________________________________________________________________
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Try fabric.com (link below).  They currently have 100% cotton twill in
spring colors.  Also look at their denim page; they frequently have brushed
denim.  They may be getting more, since they're just starting Spring
fabrics.
You could also try JoAnn's; I found some there last November.
Funny thing is, I'm always looking for taupe and olive and black...
                   -Helen/Aidan
http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/fabric-apparel---fashion-fabrics-twills--poplins---broadcloth-cotton-twill.html


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Dear Deredere,
Very nice to se you in victorian clothes two. Did you like the Victorian style more than the other periods you have made?

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
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Subject: [h-cost] Diana's cotehardie sleeve pics
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Diana's pictures of the cotehardie sleeves are now available at
http://www.techarea.net/~ingridgs/pics/dianas_pics/ . :)

Ingrid

-- 
This email has been scanned for viruses & spam by Decna as - www.decna.no
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From: "Danielle Nunn-Weinberg" <dannw@eudoramail.com>
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Oh thank you that sounds promising.  Not too exorbitant...hopefully they will have space.

Cheers,
Danielle

--------- Original Message ---------

>Can't help with going to the dance (I'm on the wrong side of the pond) but
>I can help with the B & B.  When I was there 4-ish years ago, I stayed at
>a place called Ashley House.  It is at 8 Pulteney Gardens in Bath and was
>a short walk from the downtown area.  The people were very nice and at the
>time I went it was 40 pounds for a double occupancy room which I found
>pretty reasonable.  Their telephone is (01225) 425027 (no, I am not that
>good at memorizing, I just saved their business card).
>
>I am very jealous that you get to go to this event because it sounds
>absolutely fabulouse!  Have fun!
>
>Diana
>
>-- 
>Diana Habra
>www.renaissancefabrics.net
>"Everything for the Costumer"


Need a new email address that people can remember
Check out the new EudoraMail at
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Dear Danielle,
I have not desided yeat, but i was thinking about
Carfax Hotel. Mostly because i want to stay as close to the ball as possible
so i can walk my way home to the hotel.
But if you go to this place: http://www.visitbath.co.uk/
You can find many places.
Bjarne



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I like 15th, 16th, 18th and 19th century clothing.
I am working on a 18th century corset right now.
What I find very strange in the Victorian dress, are the seams. The 
bodice is lined but you can still see the raw edges on de inside of bodice.
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Victorian/Victorian.html
Nice part about 19th century costumes is that there are more original 
patterns.
But I don't think there is a style I like most.
At least not yet.

Greetings,
        Deredere



Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

>Dear Deredere,
>Very nice to se you in victorian clothes two. Did you like the Victorian style more than the other periods you have made?
>
>Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>_______________________________________________
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>  
>



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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New BBC Costume Drama
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Like you, I didn't think the costuming was bad - certainly not 
distracting for someone with an interest but not a detailed knowledge of 
that particular century.  I wasn't much impressed with the drama - it 
seemed to romp through key events with very little to join them 
together, certainly at the beginning.  But I hadn't realised until it 
was introduced that it was written by Jimmy McGovern.  He's not exactly 
known for his deferential approach to authority, so you can imagine he 
certainly wasn't pressing for beauty and accuracy in the costumes. 
Authentic grime and gore, possibly.

Jean



Kate M Bunting <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> wrote
>Well, I watched "Gunpowder, Treason and Plot" last night and thought it
>wasn't too bad (all the Elizabethan experts will probably disagree).
>However, the author did say he had taken some liberties with historical
>fact, but I wondered why he had left out some of the most dramatic
>elements of the story. It's well known that Mary was heavily pregnant at
>the time of Rizzio's murder, but here she only announced her pregnancy
>some time later, after a good deal of galloping about on horseback.
>
>
>
>
>Kate Bunting
>Library, University of Derby
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: bathrobes
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I can recognise a difference in that a bathrobe is something you can 
wear when wet, ie, probably towelling, and a dressing gown you probably 
wouldn't.  But dressing gown is still current here for something worn 
over pajamas for extra warmth.  Fabric and construction (button-up or 
kimono-style) just seems to vary as fashion.

Jean


Elizabeth Young <lizyoung@fenris.net> wrote
>Kate M Bunting wrote:
>
>>
>>>>>rmitchell@washjeff.edu 13/03/04 23:08:12 >>>
>>>>>
>>Ah, but there is a difference between a bathrobe and a dressing gown.
>>Kathleen
>>-
>>Is there? I thought "bathrobe" was the American term for what we
>>British call a dressing gown.
>>
>>Kate Bunting
>>Library, University of Derby
>>
>In my corner of the US (which is really still Michigan, even though I 
>live in California now) a bathrobe is either what you wear instead of 
>streaking from the shower or it is something you wear over your pajamas 
>for extra warmth. I have one garment that serves both purposes. I call 
>it a bathrobe.
>When I hear 'dressing gown' I think of something that people in the 
>past wore around the house (esp. in old movies) instead of getting all 
>the way dressed. I don't think of it as a current term.
>
>liz young
>
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Subject: [h-cost] OT: Diffusionism (was Bog dress & American colonies)
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I had almost talked myself out of not posting on this topic, until I got 
this last digest.  Everyone, just go about your business, talk about 
costuming.  Unfortunately, this is one of my long term button topics.  I 
promise - I'll try to be nice.

>From: Brenda Bell <webwarren@earthlink.net>
>>[Someone Else]
>>There is a new theory that the Phoenicians were in "Americas" before
>>Madoc.

It's not a new speculation.  People have been speculating about such visits 
for well over 30 years.

>>In that some archeologist believe that King Solomon's gold mines were
>>located in Haiti and not Africa.  Read a long article on how the length of 
>>time from Haiti to Jerusalem matched the records, the finding of old gold
>>mines and other thing to prove their theory.

Really.  You wouldn't happen to have the citation for the article?  I'd much 
rather dissect it than hear about it -- when I dispute with someone about 
something like this that they are telling me about, it can look too much 
like flaming.  I'd rather attack the article. (this wouldn't happen to be 
that drivel by Dankenbring woud it?)

<Brenda>
>I'm not familiar with the Book of Mormon or other LDS sacred writings, but
>how do the dates on these compare to the dates they purport for their
>prophets and escapees landing in the New World?

I'm sure the two sets of dates would blend just fine, if someone wanted to 
do that -- I believe that Lehi and the lost tribes are supposed to have left 
Israel around 600-640 BCE.  The Phoenicians had been plying the seas for 
centuries before this period (and supposedly making transatlantic crossings 
regularly.  Kings Solomon's Mines WERE in Peru or Haiti or wherever, at a 
1000 BCE, then getting the lost tribes shipped over wouldn't have been any 
big deal. Pop 'em over on the _Queen of Sheba II_ and the regular 
transatlantic runs...

Marc

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I am not sure but I vaguely remember MM used to have a Landsknecht pattern
long ago ( could be remembering another company)
If you were wanting Landsknecht, I have had some tell me this site is
helpful.

http://www.pipcom.com/~tempus/landsknecht/patterns.html


Arian

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of KATHRYN WOLTERS
Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2004 8:53 AM
To: h-costume@net.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Calling Margo!


Sorry for the 'bandwidth'--but I just realized that I seem to have misplaced
the URL to order a pattern from Margo.
Also, does anyone know if Medieval Miscelliania put out a pattern of german
mens' patterns to go along with the german's womans that it put out?
Many thanks---
Albra

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Subject: [h-cost] FW: FW: Leine / Tunic - Patterns and what works
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I don't remember which list this question was asked.
I posted the question to a LH list that deals with 9th and 10th cents. and
this is so far the reply I got.

De

The Scottish leine, a *much* later garment, is actually just a large linen
shirt with some
differences in details such as a collar. Try www.reconstructinghistory.com/
for some of the best
info on the web about Scottish and Irish clothing.

Pax,
::Linda::

-----Original Message-----

I need a good pattern for a leine that a 9th - 10th century scottish
highland gael would wear. I'm working out my armor for heavy atm,
and I want to have a leine that covers up the armor so I can at
least somewhat resemble someone from that period when on the field
(considering I don't have chain and what not). Right now I use a
basic tunic pattern, knee length with elbow length sleeves, round
neckline, with trim around the neck (squared off). I wasn't sure if
this really worked for my period or not. Also, is a leine considered
a tunic and vice versa? What's the difference really?

Thanks in advance for any feedback!



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Diana's cotehardie sleeve pics
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Great too see.  I have for a short time put a page from the MOL book up at www.thrednedlestrete.com/Bulletinboard.htm.  Have a quick look as they are only up for this discussion and will be removed shortly.

Lisa Sinervo


---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Ingrid G. Storrø <ingridgs@techarea.net>
Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date:  Tue, 16 Mar 2004 20:25:34 +0100 (CET)

>Diana's pictures of the cotehardie sleeves are now available at
>http://www.techarea.net/~ingridgs/pics/dianas_pics/ . :)
>
>Ingrid
>
>-- 
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My husband sent this from another list and asked me to ask you all for a
definition:

As I was bouncing around I ran across a translation of the Magna Carta
<http://www.usconstitution.net/magna.html>. Clause 37 says "There shall be
standard measures of wine, ale, and corn (the London quarter), throughout
the kingdom. There shall also be a standard width of dyed cloth, russett,
and haberject, namely two ells within the selvedges. Weights are to be
standardized similarly." The translation is provided by the British Library.


Any idea what haberject is? Is it a color, a weave?

LynnD

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My husband sent this from another list and asked me to ask you all for a
definition:

As I was bouncing around I ran across a translation of the Magna Carta
<http://www.usconstitution.net/magna.html>. Clause 37 says "There shall be
standard measures of wine, ale, and corn (the London quarter), throughout
the kingdom. There shall also be a standard width of dyed cloth, russett,
and haberject, namely two ells within the selvedges. Weights are to be
standardized similarly." The translation is provided by the British Library.


Any idea what haberject is? Is it a color, a weave?

LynnD

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My husband sent this from another list and asked me to ask you all for a
definition:

As I was bouncing around I ran across a translation of the Magna Carta
<http://www.usconstitution.net/magna.html>. Clause 37 says "There shall be
standard measures of wine, ale, and corn (the London quarter), throughout
the kingdom. There shall also be a standard width of dyed cloth, russett,
and haberject, namely two ells within the selvedges. Weights are to be
standardized similarly." The translation is provided by the British Library.


Any idea what haberject is? Is it a color, a weave?

LynnD

_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Definition of HABERJECT?
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In a message dated 3/16/2004 4:56:55 PM Central Standard Time, 
LDownward@chori.org writes:
Any idea what haberject is? Is it a color, a weave?

LynnD


Okay, this is far from a definitive answer but it might help some.  In doing 
a google search for the term, I came across a couple of websites that had the 
Magna Carta written in Spanish.  The Spanish translation for "haberject" was 
"la cota de malla."  This, apparently, is a certain type of chain mail.

Like I said, not definitive, but it might give you a direction to go in to 
find a certain answer.

-Tiff
"I have the right to remain silent ... I just don't have the ability."
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Tiffsewsstuff@aol.com wrote:
> Okay, this is far from a definitive answer but it might help some.  In doing 
> a google search for the term, I came across a couple of websites that had the 
> Magna Carta written in Spanish.  The Spanish translation for "haberject" was 
> "la cota de malla."  This, apparently, is a certain type of chain mail.

What a great idea, to search that way.  If it's correct, does it imply 
that chain mail was produced as yard goods and then reformed?  That 
would be bizarre.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

If you're getting error messages from my spam-blocker program, please 
tell me so that I can fix it.  A message from the form on my website 
will always reach me: http://www.virtue.to
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Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 15:36:50 -0800
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Definition of HABERJECT?
From: Lynn Downward <LDownward@chori.org>
To: h costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Thanks, Tiff. That¹s more than we knew before. I should have suggested the
google search to my husband.

LynnD

On 3/16/04 3:16 PM, "Tiffsewsstuff@aol.com" <Tiffsewsstuff@aol.com> wrote:

> In a message dated 3/16/2004 4:56:55 PM Central Standard Time,
> LDownward@chori.org writes:
> Any idea what haberject is? Is it a color, a weave?
> 
> LynnD
> 
> 
> Okay, this is far from a definitive answer but it might help some.  In doing
> a google search for the term, I came across a couple of websites that had the
> Magna Carta written in Spanish.  The Spanish translation for "haberject" was
> "la cota de malla."  This, apparently, is a certain type of chain mail.
> 
> Like I said, not definitive, but it might give you a direction to go in to
> find a certain answer.
> 
> -Tiff
> "I have the right to remain silent ... I just don't have the ability."
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Agnes Gawne" <gawne@mac.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2004 3:38 PM
Subject: Haberject


> Here's the quote from the Oxford English Dictionary:  (it leads on to
other
> words Hauberk and Haubergeon so I pasted them in too)... hope this helps!
>
> haberjet, hauberget
> Also 6 hauberject, 8 haberject, 9 halberject, -git. [In med.L.
haubergetum,
> a word of obscure origin, app. related to HAUBERK and HABERGEON.]
>     A kind of cloth named in Magna Carta, and in some ancient documents.
>
>   [1216 Magna Carta 1 Hen. III §23 Sit..una latitudo pannorum tinctorum &
> Russettorum & Haubergetorum, scilicet due Ulne infra listas.] 1502 tr.
Great
> Charter in Arnolde Chron. (1811) 219 And one largenes dyed clothes and of
> russetis and of hauberiectis, that is to sey two ellis betwyxt the listis.
> 1706 PHILLIPS (ed. Kersey), Haberjects, or Haubergets, a kind of Cloth
> mention'd in Magna Charta, and other Records. 1865 KINGSLEY Herew. II. i.
10
> Clothing of..grising or halbergit and lambs' skins. 1861 RILEY Liber Albus
> Gloss. s.v. Hapertas, In Mag. Rot. 14 John, mention is made of 3043 ells
de
> halbergo albo 'of white halberject' for the king's use.
>
> hauberk
>
> [a. OF. hauberc, earlier holberc, later (and mod.F.) haubert = Pr.
ausberc,
> It. osbergo, usbergo, med.L. halsberga, etc., a Com. Rom. deriv. of OHG.
> halsberg, halsperc masc. (also halsberga fem.) = OE. healsbeor, ON.
halsbjrg
> fem., f. hals neck + -bergan to cover, protect (cf. HARBOUR). The OE. word
> did not survive: the OF. form was introduced in ME. See also the deriv.
> HABERGEON.]
>
>     A piece of defensive armour: originally intended for the defence of
the
> neck and shoulders; but already in 12th and 13th c. developed into a long
> coat of mail, or military tunic, usually of ring or chain mail, which
> adapted itself readily to the motions of the body.
>
>   1297 R. GLOUC. (1724) 99 Wy haubert noble and ryche. Ibid. 174 With
swerd
> or hauberk eny batail to do. c1330 R. BRUNNE Chron. Wace (Rolls) 10029
> Hauberk wi plates y-burnuscht ful wel. c1386 CHAUCER Knt.'s T. 1573 The
> Statue of Mars bigan his hauberk rynge. c1400 Destr. Troy 5828 Hurlet
urghe
> the hawbergh, hurt hym full sore. c1450 Merlin 118 Thei..ronnen agein
> hym..and smyten hym on the shelde and on the haubrek. 1495 Act 11 Hen.
VII,
> c. 64 Armours Defensives, as Jakkes Salettis Brigandynes..Haubertis
Curesses
> [etc.]. 1590 SPENSER F.Q. II. viii. 44 And on the haubergh stroke the
Prince
> so sore, That quite disparted all the linked frame. 1600 FAIRFAX Tasso I.
> lxxii. 15 Some dond a curace, some a corslet bright, An hawberke some, and
> some a haberion. 1781 GIBBON Decl. & F. III. lviii. 434 His breast was
> defended by an hauberk or coat of mail. 1870 LOWELL Study Wind. 242 My
ears
> no sweeter music know Than hauberk's clank with saddle~bow. 1887 BOWEN
Virg.
> Æneid v. 259 Hauberk woven of polished chain.
>
>
>
>     b. worn as a garment for penance. Obs.
>
>   c1305 Edmund Conf. 28 in E.E.P. (1862) 71 e moder werede harde hare..and
> harde hauberk aboue; In suche penance heo ladde hire lyf. c1386 CHAUCER
> Pars. T. 980 Clothing of whiche Ihesu crist is moore apayed than of heyres
> or haubergeons or hauberkes.
>
>
>
>
>
>  habergeon, haubergeon
>
> Forms: . 3 haubergeun, 4-6 -oun(e, 4-9 -on; also 4-5 hawberjoun, Sc.
> haubrischoun(e, hawbyrschown, haubersion(e, 5 hawburgon, -byrgon, Sc.
> awbyrchowne, 6 haubergyon, haulbergyn, 9 hawbergeon. . ? 3, 4- habergeon;
> also 3-4 haberion, habiryun, 4-5 haber-, habar-, habir-, habour-, habur-,
>
habyr-, -geon, -gion, -gioun, -gyn(e, -gon, -goun, -gown, -goyne, -jon(e, -j
> oun(e, -jown(e, -jeoun, -jeon, -jun(e, -yon(e, 5 aburioun, 6 habergyn,
> habarion, habbergion, -jon, -jeoun; Sc. haberjone, -choun, -shoune,
> haberschone, abrichon. (About 100 variants.) [ME. a. F. haubergeon (12th
c.
> in Hatz.-Darm.), deriv. (treated as dim.) of OF. hauberc, now haubert: see
> HAUBERK and -ON. In Eng. from an early date reduced to ha-, though
examples
> of hau-, haw-, under French influence, contemporary or historical, occur
> down to the present day. The word has been since the 16th c. only
> historical, and it was app. after it had become obs. as a living word,
that
> the pronunciation (hbdn) or (hbdin), found in Milton, Butler, Glover,
etc.,
> and in some modern dictionaries, arose.]
>
>     A sleeveless coat or jacket of mail or scale armour, originally
smaller
> and lighter than a HAUBERK, but sometimes app. the same as that.
>
>   [1285 Act 13 Edw. I c. 6 A disz liveree de terre..haubergeun chapel espe
e
> cutel.] c1340 Cursor M. 7521 (Trin.) Helme haburioun [Gött. habiryun] on
him
> ei did. 1375 BARBOUR Bruce XI. 130 Mony helmys and hawbyrschownys. c1375
Sc.
> Leg. Saints, Margaret 279 Scho wes cled in haubersione Of treutht and of
> deuocione. 1377 LANGL. P. Pl. B. XVIII. 23 In his helme and in his
> haberioun. 1382 WYCLIF 1 Sam. xvii. 5 Goliath..was clothid with a maylid
> hawberioun [1388 an haburioun hokid]. 1382  Eph. vi. 14  e haberioun of
> ritwysnesse. c1386 CHAUCER Sir Thopas 150 Nexte his sherte an Aketoun And
> ouer that an haubergeoun [v. rr. habyrioun, habergoun, haberioun]. 1411
E.E.
> Wills (1882) 19 To Henre my sonne, an aburioun, a ketil Hatte. c1425
WYNTOUN
> Cron. VIII. xxxiii. 22 Throw thre fauld of Awbyrchowne. c1440 Promp. Parv.
> 220/1 Haburyone [v.r. haburgyn], or hawberk, lorica. c1450 Mirour
Saluacioun
> 4129 The haubergeonne whilk his body shuld kepe both vp and doune. 1530
> PALSGR. 229/2 Haulbergyn of mayle. 1535 COVERDALE Rev. ix. 9 They had
> habbergions As it were habbergions of yron. 1590 SPENSER F.Q. II. vi. 29
> Their mightie strokes their haberjeons dismayld. 1600 FAIRFAX Tasso I.
> lxxii. 15 Some dond a curace, some a corslet bright, An hawberke some, and
> some a haberion. 1611 BIBLE 2 Chron. xxvi. 14 And Vzziah prepared for
> them..shields, and speares, and helmets, and habergions. 1663 BUTLER Hud.
I.
> iii. 537 The shot let fly..Lodg'd in Magnano's brass habergeon. 1671
MILTON
> Samson 1119 Then put on all they gorgeous arms, thy helmet And brigandine
of
> brass, thy broad habergeon. 1679 BLOUNT Anc. Tenures 23 Their Knights and
> free~holders to find Corslets and Haubergeons. 1787 GLOVER Athenaid VIII.
> (R.), Above, bright maile, habergeons scal'd in gold. 1864 SIR F. PALGRAVE
> Norm. & Eng. III. 306 The knights are now seen..each covered with his
> hawbergeon of mail. 1879 BROWNING Tray 4 Sir Olaf, the good knight, did
don
> His helm and eke his habergeon.
>
>
>
>     b. Worn as a rough garment for penance. Obs.
>
>   c1386 CHAUCER Pars. T. 978 Werynge of heyres or of stamyn, or of
> haubergeons on hire naked flesshe..and swiche manere penances. Ibid. 980
Of
> whiche Ihesu crist is moore apayed than of heyres or haubergeouns or
> hauberkes.
>
>
>
>     c. Applied to the elytron of a beetle. Obs.
>
>   a1637 B. JONSON Sad Sheph. II. ii, Scaly beetles, with their habergeons,
> That make a humming murmur as they fly.
>
>
>
>     Hence habergeoned (hauberiounyd) a., equipped with a habergeon.
>
>   1382 WYCLIF 1 Macc. iv. 7 Thei sawen the tentis of heithen men stronge,
> and men hauberiounyd.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> >
>
>  Message: 16
> > Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 18:16:11 EST
> > From: Tiffsewsstuff@aol.com
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Definition of HABERJECT?
> > To: h-costume@indra.com
> > Message-ID: <74.39a60895.2d88e4bb@aol.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
> >
> > In a message dated 3/16/2004 4:56:55 PM Central Standard Time,
> > LDownward@chori.org writes:
> > Any idea what haberject is? Is it a color, a weave?
> >
> > LynnD
> >
> >
> > Okay, this is far from a definitive answer but it might help some.  In
> doing
> > a google search for the term, I came across a couple of websites that
had
> the
> > Magna Carta written in Spanish.  The Spanish translation for "haberject"
> was
> > "la cota de malla."  This, apparently, is a certain type of chain mail.
> >
> > Like I said, not definitive, but it might give you a direction to go in
to
> > find a certain answer.
> >
> > -Tiff
> > "I have the right to remain silent ... I just don't have the ability."
>


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Mar 16 18:42:41 2004
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	Tue, 16 Mar 2004 15:41:47 PST
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 15:41:47 -0800 (PST)
From: KATHRYN WOLTERS <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Calling Margo!
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Thanks Arian--that's a very useful site:) Since I've never done a german for a man--there's lots  for me to learn here! Hopefully that learning curve will go up very quickly, too! It looks like what I am looking for is something that looks like a square necked doublet--that has skirts to the knee-- somewhere around 1490 to 1530. And from the site's  discription tht it is held in place by a sash or belt, does this mean that the skirt and doublet are 2 seperate itames?
Albra
(still foggy on the concept)

otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
I am not sure but I vaguely remember MM used to have a Landsknecht pattern
long ago ( could be remembering another company)
If you were wanting Landsknecht, I have had some tell me this site is
helpful.

http://www.pipcom.com/~tempus/landsknecht/patterns.html


Arian

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of KATHRYN WOLTERS
Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2004 8:53 AM
To: h-costume@net.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Calling Margo!


Sorry for the 'bandwidth'--but I just realized that I seem to have misplaced
the URL to order a pattern from Margo.
Also, does anyone know if Medieval Miscelliania put out a pattern of german
mens' patterns to go along with the german's womans that it put out?
Many thanks---
Albra

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In a message dated 3/16/2004 5:39:01 PM Central Standard Time, gawne@mac.com 
writes:
>     b. worn as a garment for penance. Obs.


I've always thought this was the definition of "corset."  ::grin::

-Tiff
"I have the right to remain silent ... I just don't have the ability."
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In a message dated 3/16/2004 5:35:21 PM Central Standard Time, 
cvirtue+dated+1095032042.2c8270@thibault.org writes:
What a great idea, to search that way.  If it's correct, does it imply 
that chain mail was produced as yard goods and then reformed?  That 
would be bizarre.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent


It does seem bizarre to me too, which is why I say it's kind of a 
questionable answer LOL.  But I would assume that when the Magna Carta was translated 
into Spanish, they must have had their reasons for translating "haberject" into 
"la cota de malla."  

The photos that I found for "la cota de malla" are not what I usually picture 
when thinking of chain mail; it really does almost look like a metal fabric 
of sorts.  It's very fine and closely worked.  Here's a link:

http://www.mambri.com/legio/loricahamata.html

-Tiff
"I have the right to remain silent ... I just don't have the ability."
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Definition of HABERJECT?
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On Tue, 16 Mar 2004 Tiffsewsstuff@aol.com wrote:

> Okay, this is far from a definitive answer but it might help some.  
> In doing a google search for the term, I came across a couple of
> websites that had the Magna Carta written in Spanish.  The Spanish
> translation for "haberject" was "la cota de malla."  This, apparently,
> is a certain type of chain mail.

Sounds like the translator picked up on the English "habergeon," which is
a mail shirt. See http://www.onelook.com/?w=habergeon&ls=b for a selection
of definitions, some with etymologies. It's related to "hauberk."

But I would think from the context that we're seeing an error by a
translator who couldn't find anything closer, and that "haberject" is a
different word, maybe with some roots in common. I'm thinking of
"haberdasher" as a potential relative here.

--Robin

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In a message dated 3/16/2004 5:58:09 PM Central Standard Time, 
robin@shell.nightowl.net writes:
But I would think from the context that we're seeing an error by a
translator who couldn't find anything closer, and that "haberject" is a
different word, maybe with some roots in common. I'm thinking of
"haberdasher" as a potential relative here.

--Robin


I don't know ... there were probably half a dozen different websites that I 
scanned across which all had "la cota de malla" as the word for "haberject."  
That's the only reason I brought it up ... it seems to have been a general 
consensus at some point.  If it had just been one person's translation, I would 
also have assumed that they made a mistake.

-Tiff
"I have the right to remain silent ... I just don't have the ability."
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Tiffsewsstuff@aol.com wrote:
> The photos that I found for "la cota de malla" are not what I usually picture 
> when thinking of chain mail; it really does almost look like a metal fabric 
> of sorts.  It's very fine and closely worked.  Here's a link:
> 
> http://www.mambri.com/legio/loricahamata.html

Er, right.  That's chain mail alright.  The best medieval stuff I've 
seen had rings maybe 1/4" in diameter, beaten flat, with IIRC, the name 
of Allah stamped on each one (Higgins Armory, Worchester, MA). 
Hobbyists don't generally get that good.

(And you can get chain mail gloves for use if you're a meat packer; the 
rings there are more like 1/8", but that's modern.)

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Haberject
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Only one that fits badly.
=============================
Now open!
http://kristalori.com
=============================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Tiffsewsstuff@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2004 6:43 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Haberject


> In a message dated 3/16/2004 5:39:01 PM Central Standard Time,
gawne@mac.com
> writes:
> >     b. worn as a garment for penance. Obs.
>
>
> I've always thought this was the definition of "corset."  ::grin::
>
> -Tiff
> "I have the right to remain silent ... I just don't have the ability."
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Helen  Pinto" <hpinto@mindspring.com>
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Cynthia wrote:
If it's correct, does it imply
> that chain mail was produced as yard goods and then reformed?  That
> would be bizarre.


I had found the same "cota de malla" sources, but then I started thinking
that maybe it's not so far-fetched afterall.  What better way to put your
apprentices or maybe your journeymen to work than making flat sheets of
mail?  Then the master does the tailoring.  All the other trades had a
division of labor, why not armourers?
             -Helen/Aidan


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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Pictures Dickens
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Looks fabulous.  Are those curls your real hair?  WoW!



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From: "Ron Carnegie" <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] FW: FW: Leine / Tunic - Patterns and what works
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  Liene is just Gaelic for shirt. There are two basic design differences
that show up as liene amongst re-enactors and costumers.  One is the Style
that seems popular in the 16th century, but there is an earlier version and
it is often described as being tunic like.  I think it is also listed on the
Reconstructing History web page.  Otherwise try the North Carolina Tartan
museum.  There is definitely stuff online regarding it however, I think it
is reconstruction history.

Cheers,
Ron
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of otsisto
> Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2004 4:06 PM
> To: Historic Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] FW: FW: Leine / Tunic - Patterns and what works
>
>
> I don't remember which list this question was asked.
> I posted the question to a LH list that deals with 9th and 10th cents. and
> this is so far the reply I got.
>
> De
>
> The Scottish leine, a *much* later garment, is actually just a large linen
> shirt with some
> differences in details such as a collar. Try
> www.reconstructinghistory.com/
> for some of the best
> info on the web about Scottish and Irish clothing.
>
> Pax,
> ::Linda::
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> I need a good pattern for a leine that a 9th - 10th century scottish
> highland gael would wear. I'm working out my armor for heavy atm,
> and I want to have a leine that covers up the armor so I can at
> least somewhat resemble someone from that period when on the field
> (considering I don't have chain and what not). Right now I use a
> basic tunic pattern, knee length with elbow length sleeves, round
> neckline, with trim around the neck (squared off). I wasn't sure if
> this really worked for my period or not. Also, is a leine considered
> a tunic and vice versa? What's the difference really?
>
> Thanks in advance for any feedback!
>
>
>
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Mar 16 20:29:15 2004
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From: "Joanna Hobbins" <jhobbi2@po-box.mcgill.ca>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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	<04fb01c40bb5$3dae8490$f53c9b04@HELENPINTO>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Definition of HABERJECT?
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 20:10:47 -0500
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Having made several maille hauberks and haubergeons, creating flat sheets
and tailoring them is a very poor way to go about it.  A lot of wasted time,
even with butted links, with riveted maille you'd essentially double the
time it would take to make the armour.  Division of labour amongst armour
would be in creating the open rings, striking the closed rings, creating the
overlap, piercing the rings, creating the rivets, "knitting" the piece in
question, and riveting it closed.

When I first saw the subject heading, my immediate thought was it was
related to haberdasher, but the relation to hauberk and haubergeon seems
pretty solid.  However, not all haubergeons were made of maille.  Padded
(cloth) haubergeons existed for those who could not afford maille armour.
They would be similar to a gambeson, but without sleeves.  Could haberject
be the a relatively thick material used to make cloth haubergeons?

my 2 cents

Joanna
(still shuddering at the idea of taking a cloth of maille and "tailoring"
it)

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Helen Pinto" <hpinto@mindspring.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2004 7:17 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Definition of HABERJECT?


> Cynthia wrote:
> If it's correct, does it imply
> > that chain mail was produced as yard goods and then reformed?  That
> > would be bizarre.
>
>
> I had found the same "cota de malla" sources, but then I started thinking
> that maybe it's not so far-fetched afterall.  What better way to put your
> apprentices or maybe your journeymen to work than making flat sheets of
> mail?  Then the master does the tailoring.  All the other trades had a
> division of labor, why not armourers?
>              -Helen/Aidan
>
>
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Fabulous as always!  I love the woman with the really frizzed out 1780s
hair.

- Kendra
http://demode.tweedlebop.com

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Mar 16 20:56:59 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pictures Dickens
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Hi Deredere,

What you're talking about is called flat lining, which is where you sew the
fashion fabric/underlining/lining all together as individual pieces BEFORE
you sew them together.  This was very common in the Victorian era, and the
fabulous thing about it is that it makes it very easy to fit and alter your
bodices!

- Kendra
http://demode.tweedlebop.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Deredere Galbraith" <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2004 12:10 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pictures Dickens


> I like 15th, 16th, 18th and 19th century clothing.
> I am working on a 18th century corset right now.
> What I find very strange in the Victorian dress, are the seams. The
> bodice is lined but you can still see the raw edges on de inside of
bodice.
> http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Victorian/Victorian.html
> Nice part about 19th century costumes is that there are more original
> patterns.
> But I don't think there is a style I like most.
> At least not yet.

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Mar 16 21:15:13 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pictures Dickens
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In a message dated 3/16/2004 3:11:19 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
triade@kabelfoon.nl writes:

> What I find very strange in the Victorian dress, are the seams. The 
> bodice is lined but you can still see the raw edges on de inside of bodice.
> 

Well....sometimes I guess. Usually the inside is neatened though.

I saw two 1890s bodices, the same size, made of different brown silks but 
trimmed and decorated with the same brown and gold brocade. They may have gone 
with one now missing skirt. They were obviously made by the same person. The 
insides were as beautiful as the outsides. There were many seams in the 
back....it having 6 pieces [the fronts were one with darts] curving and narrowing to 
the waist. These seams on the inside had the allowances scalloped, not just 
clipped, to allow them to be pressed flat. The scalloped edges were bound in dark 
green seam binding. A coffee brown boning casing with whale bone in it was X 
stitched across the boning, in bright magenta thread, on each seam. It was a 
thing of beauty.

And of course there are two kinds of lining. Flat lining is when you cut 2 of 
each pattern piece you need, one out of the fashion fabric and one of the 
lining. They are basted together and then handled as a single piece. This is a 
structural thing usually for strength.

Then there is the other kind of lining like in a coat where the two are made 
up separately and then put together with the raw edges facing each other.

They are by no means mutually exclusive.
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Definition of HABERJECT?
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I am not sure if this may even be of much interest to
most of the folks on this list, but the term 'chain
mail' is considered redundant by armourers/artisans
recreating the 'hard kits' of history. The generally
accepted term is simply 'mail', or 'maille'. For the
medieval period, metal armour was mostly mail (little
circles looped through each other) and then later
solid plate, often in conjunction with mail. 

-Tasha

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is anyone going to the Bath Ball this year?
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Danielle wrote:
> I've decided to treat myself to something fun so I decided to go to
the Bath ball, now that I am in this country.
http://www.bathminuetcompany.freeserve.co.uk/
>
> Anyway, I was wondering if anyone else is going this year?

Well, Bjarne is attending, and so am I if I ever manage to finish this
sack! It will be great to have you along.

>Also can someone recommend a nice but inexpensive B&B in Bath?

I'm looking for one of those myself....

best wishes
Stevie

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 14th cent surcote/dress question
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On Tue, 16 Mar 2004, Cornelia Muncke wrote:

> I am looking into open surcotes in the 14th century. I have recently
> come across the images of Blanche de Valois and Joanna von Pfirt
> (statues on the facade of the Stefansdom in Vienna, ~1365). Both
> ladies appear to wear a very interesting garment, which could be
> anything between an embroidered dress and an open surcote worn over a
> kirtle/supportive layer, except for the fact that their heavily
> ornamented belt seems to go over the entire dress, not under as you
> would expect if it was an open surcote. Stella Mary Newton describes
> these dresses as one layer, with a gathered skirt and a seam which is
> hidden by the belt. The image of Joanna von Pfirt's statue clearly
> shows the extended "embroidery/plastron decoration?" of the bodice
> below the belt, something I would expect from an open surcote (i.e.
> statue of Jeanne de Bourbon).

Took me a while to answer because I had to wait till I had time to sit
down with Newton and look up these images again. (In future, you might
want to give listmates a pointer to a book page or -- better -- scan in
some images if you have a place to post them, so everyone can see what
you're talking about.)

Anyway, once I found them again, I remembered why these images made me so
uncomfortable. I have never felt quite right about Newton's interpretation
of these two statues. For one thing, the idea of a hipline seam with a
cartridge-pleated skirt goes against everything else we know of 14th c.
construction, and just doesn't seem to make sense. For another thing, the
general style of these statues seems a lot later than Newton assumes. She
writes, "There has been a good deal of discussion as to exactly when these
statues were made and by whom, but it seems likely that they were
conceived, if not executed, before 1365..." There are some elements that
put them, to my eye, almost that early, particularly the hairstyles. But
the pleating in the mantle seems more likely to be 15th century to me.
Newton does indicate that she's never seen any evidence of these pleats in
this period anywhere else (which seems to me should be a reason for
caution on the dating). She doesn't elaborate on what the date arguments
are or how wide a range has been proposed, but I sure would be interested
in knowing the other opinions.

In any case, if they're pre-1365, I'd sincerely doubt they could be
sideless surcotes, which had not yet attained a form with such elaborate
plastron decoration and deeply cut sides. That would leave them to be some
sort of dress with vertical front decoration, as Newton suggests, though I
can't recall seeing anything else of the sort in this period, and I'm
still skeptical of the idea of a hipline seam. Of course, this is also
from Vienna, and who knows what sorts of regional variations were in
place, particularly for royal embellishment, that we don't see further
West (where I'm much more familiar with the range of options).

On the other hand, if they are sideless surcotes, they could very likely
be from the 15th century, by which time sideless surcotes were a typical
garment for formal representations of queens. The later you go in the 15th
century, the less grounded in reality these representations are, so by the
second half of the 15th century, you end up with quite a number of visual
variants on sideless surcotes that owe more to the sculptor's imagination
than to any real knowledge of the garment (which was by then long out of
wear).

Anyone's guess, I suppose.

--Robin


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-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Marc Carlson
Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2004 2:34 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] OT: Diffusionism (was Bog dress & American colonies)


>>In that some archeologist believe that King Solomon's gold mines were
>>located in Haiti and not Africa.  Read a long article on how the length of
>>time from Haiti to Jerusalem matched the records, the finding of old gold
>>mines and other thing to prove their theory.

Really.  You wouldn't happen to have the citation for the article?  I'd much
rather dissect it than hear about it -- when I dispute with someone about
something like this that they are telling me about, it can look too much
like flaming.  I'd rather attack the article. (this wouldn't happen to be
that drivel by Dankenbring woud it?)

* It comes from the magazine "Archeology Today" a 2003 issue. I do not have
the issue any more. I don't remember the name Dankenbring being in the
article.

Thank you for replying to the subject. I do not have a photographic memory
and so only remember in a summary form. I have been trying to break myself
of the habit of saying anything when I can not fully and thoroughly back up
the statement with hard evidence. Example as above, I can only state roughly
what the source is but can not give verbatim what the article said.
My apologies, the habit is hard to break  but hopefully, in time I will
learn to shut up because I do not see myself getting a photographic memory
anytime in the near future.

De


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Another data point:
from my mom - 76 yrs old, born and mostly lived/es in Michigan:
"Bathrobe is utilitarian  moisture absorbent or a sun blocker or a 
'temporary' cover for the morning
A dressing grown could also be a 'temporary' cover but also meant for a 
lover as in "slip in something more comfortable" , a more substantial 
than a negligee.  
Violetta would not be caught in a bathrobe on the opera stage."

liz young

Jean Waddie wrote:

> I can recognise a difference in that a bathrobe is something you can 
> wear when wet, ie, probably towelling, and a dressing gown you 
> probably wouldn't.  But dressing gown is still current here for 
> something worn over pajamas for extra warmth.  Fabric and construction 
> (button-up or kimono-style) just seems to vary as fashion.
>
> Jean
>
>
> Elizabeth Young <lizyoung@fenris.net> wrote
>
>> Kate M Bunting wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>>>> rmitchell@washjeff.edu 13/03/04 23:08:12 >>>
>>>>>>
>>> Ah, but there is a difference between a bathrobe and a dressing gown.
>>> Kathleen
>>> -
>>> Is there? I thought "bathrobe" was the American term for what we
>>> British call a dressing gown.
>>>
>>> Kate Bunting
>>> Library, University of Derby
>>>
>> In my corner of the US (which is really still Michigan, even though I 
>> live in California now) a bathrobe is either what you wear instead of 
>> streaking from the shower or it is something you wear over your 
>> pajamas for extra warmth. I have one garment that serves both 
>> purposes. I call it a bathrobe.
>> When I hear 'dressing gown' I think of something that people in the 
>> past wore around the house (esp. in old movies) instead of getting 
>> all the way dressed. I don't think of it as a current term.
>>
>> liz young
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>


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Tiffsewsstuff@aol.com wrote:

>In a message dated 3/16/2004 5:58:09 PM Central Standard Time, 
>robin@shell.nightowl.net writes:
>But I would think from the context that we're seeing an error by a
>translator who couldn't find anything closer, and that "haberject" is a
>different word, maybe with some roots in common. I'm thinking of
>"haberdasher" as a potential relative here.
>
>--Robin
>
>
>I don't know ... there were probably half a dozen different websites that I 
>scanned across which all had "la cota de malla" as the word for "haberject."  
>That's the only reason I brought it up ... it seems to have been a general 
>consensus at some point.  If it had just been one person's translation, I would 
>also have assumed that they made a mistake.
>
>  
>

It is quite possible that the several websites in question either used 
the same source or each other as 'back up' for that translation of the 
term. I don't suppose any of those sites gave the source for their 
information?

liz young

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From: "Mathilde" <liara@wanadoo.fr>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10403161923230.13033-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Definition of HABERJECT?
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 12:32:56 +0100
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Out of curiosity, I checked the French traduction of the Magna Carta... And
haberject is translated by "toile" (I think the English word is canvas?),
and not maille at all. Apparently every translator had it its own way...

Liara


> On Tue, 16 Mar 2004 Tiffsewsstuff@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Okay, this is far from a definitive answer but it might help some.
> > In doing a google search for the term, I came across a couple of
> > websites that had the Magna Carta written in Spanish.  The Spanish
> > translation for "haberject" was "la cota de malla."  This, apparently,
> > is a certain type of chain mail.

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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 14th cent surcote/dress question
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 06:04:37 -0700
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I am glad Robin picked up on your message, because I know nothing but would
like to learn.  Robin said something that piqued my interest further.  Where
can the images be found?  I'd really like to look at what you are
discussing.

Thanks,

Sg



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From: "Talia" <khanson@kc.rr.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 14th cent surcote/dress question
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If she's mentioning Stella Newton, my guess would be that they're talking
about Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince.

Talia
Calontir

> can the images be found?  I'd really like to look at what you are
> discussing.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Sg

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Slightly OT: Historical Sewing Machine Question
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Saragrace T. Knauf wrote:

>It's funny to see these referred to as historical...but you are right they
>are....
>I just bought one myself.  I was trying to replace the one my father taught
>me to sew on back in the mid 60's.  I have been soooooo disappointed in my
>Viking #1.  I just bought my Kenmore for 75$.  It still works like a champ.
>It makes perfect button holes every-time!    They are kind of like old
>cars.....Kept in good condition, it will last several lifetimes I am sure.
>
I have a Brother sewing machine that is about 33 years old. It came with 
several "embroidery" stitches - essentially fancy border type things - 
series of swans, etc. Up until about 15 years ago, the local sewing 
machine repair person was able to give it a "tune up." After that, the 
embroidery stitches began to look all out of shape and the repair person 
said he could no longer tune up to its original form. The other stitches 
(straight, stretch, zig-zag, button hole) work fine, but I do miss the 
embroidery stitches. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what type of 
repair person might be able to get it all in alignment again?

Cecilia
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] black chemises
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That would help--do you have any other information on the painting? I
haven't been able to track it down.

-E

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "annora" <lisleong@k12.hi.us>

> This isn't a direct answer and it's not a written account but it
> opens up a possibility.  Cranach has a painting of woman whose *shift is
> definitely not white.  My copy is in B&W so I don't know what color it
> actually is but the photo reads as a dark color.  It's German, ~1525 and
> some opine that it's not actually a shift.  The woman is wearing a
> "Cranach gown" but it's laced directly over the undergarment--no white
> placket under the breast band.  And the band is _above_ the breasts so I'm
> not sure if it's part of the overgown or the undergarment.

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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] black chemises
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 08:50:24 -0700
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I will ask on the German Ren site for you...seems like one of the lists have
discussed this before.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of E House
> Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2004 8:44 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] black chemises
> 
> That would help--do you have any other information on the painting? I
> haven't been able to track it down.
> 
> -E
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "annora" <lisleong@k12.hi.us>
> 
> > This isn't a direct answer and it's not a written account but it
> > opens up a possibility.  Cranach has a painting of woman whose *shift is
> > definitely not white.  My copy is in B&W so I don't know what color it
> > actually is but the photo reads as a dark color.  It's German, ~1525 and
> > some opine that it's not actually a shift.  The woman is wearing a
> > "Cranach gown" but it's laced directly over the undergarment--no white
> > placket under the breast band.  And the band is _above_ the breasts so
I'm
> > not sure if it's part of the overgown or the undergarment.
> 
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Slightly OT: Historical Sewing Machine Question
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 08:49:28 -0700
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I would call and ask around.  It may be that the cams (I assume that is what
they are?) are just worn out...(seems unlikely)  I would explain what you
know and see what they say...



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>From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
>>Really.  You wouldn't happen to have the citation for the article?  I'd 
>>much
>>rather dissect it than hear about it -- when I dispute with someone about
>>something like this that they are telling me about, it can look too much
>>like flaming.  I'd rather attack the article. (this wouldn't happen to be
>>that drivel by Dankenbring woud it?)
>* It comes from the magazine "Archeology Today" a 2003 issue. I do not have 
>the issue any more. I don't remember the name Dankenbring being in
>the article.

Hmm.  A puzzle.  (First, let me say that I accept that this is where you saw 
the article, and am not disputing this)  I'm not finding Archaeology today 
as a magazine title.  Is it possible that this not the complete title?  [For 
example, there is a short article on "King Solomon's mines" on page 221 of 
issue 125 of Current Archaeology, although I'm not sure what the date would 
have been on that.]

>Thank you for replying to the subject. I do not have a photographic memory
>and so only remember in a summary form. I have been trying to break >myself 
>of the habit of saying anything when I can not fully and thoroughly
>back up the statement with hard evidence. Example as above, I can only
>state roughly what the source is but can not give verbatim what the article
>said. My apologies, the habit is hard to break  but hopefully, in time I 
>will
>learn to shut up because I do not see myself getting a photographic memory
>anytime in the near future.

Don't worry about it - most people don't, in fact remember things exactly.  
It;s my understanding, thought don't ask me for a citation, that people 
actually may file "facts" in a separate part of the brain than "sources of 
facts", and that sources are of a lower priority for long term memory.  This 
is prefectly normal, and not something to be upset about.

I'm certainly not trying to make anyone be quiet on any topics, and I'm 
sorry if I cam across that way.   If we don't discuss things, no one learns 
anything, and that's what I'm really interested in.  I am concerned at the 
sorts of things that people are being taught as "facts", and would prefer to 
examine these critically.  However in those cases, it's the "facts" that are 
being addressed, or the source of those facts, not the person doing the 
presenting.

Marc

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From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] sleeve closures (was: medieval button closures)
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Interesting dress! I'm hoping I can track down a larger picture, sigh, as I
just can't make out enough details.

It might help to know that the sort of thing I'm specifically looking for is
a black version of the white shift you see here:
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/aragon.jpg
But any mention of a black shift/chemise/undermost layer in western Europe
would help wonderfully!

-E

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>


> This is just royally pissing me off. Apparently the previous link doesn't
> work right so,
> http://www.thrednedlestrete.com/morse/Illustrations.htm
>
> Look for Munchausen
>
> De

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] black chemises
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I'm taking some graphics classes this semester and found out something
interesting...

In Photoshop, depending on how the color channels are set, something
that is light colored in the original color image can appear dark. So,
perhaps that's how the chemise appears to be dark.

Just an idea.

kate
----- Original Message -----
From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2004 10:43 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] black chemises


> That would help--do you have any other information on the painting?
I
> haven't been able to track it down.
>
> -E
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "annora" <lisleong@k12.hi.us>
>
> > This isn't a direct answer and it's not a written account but it
> > opens up a possibility.  Cranach has a painting of woman whose
*shift is
> > definitely not white.  My copy is in B&W so I don't know what
color it
> > actually is but the photo reads as a dark color.  It's German,
~1525 and
> > some opine that it's not actually a shift.  The woman is wearing a
> > "Cranach gown" but it's laced directly over the undergarment--no
white
> > placket under the breast band.  And the band is _above_ the
breasts so I'm
> > not sure if it's part of the overgown or the undergarment.
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>


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From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: OT: Diffusionism (was Bog dress & American colonies)
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Marc:
http://www.archaeology.org/
It's a pretty good magazine. The local bookstore has it on rare occasion and
well worth the read.

Bice
=============================
Now open!
http://kristalori.com
=============================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Marc Carlson" <marccarlson20@hotmail.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2004 11:25 AM
Subject: [h-cost] RE: OT: Diffusionism (was Bog dress & American colonies)

> Hmm.  A puzzle.  (First, let me say that I accept that this is where you
saw
> the article, and am not disputing this)  I'm not finding Archaeology today
> as a magazine title.  Is it possible that this not the complete title?
[For
> example, there is a short article on "King Solomon's mines" on page 221 of
> issue 125 of Current Archaeology, although I'm not sure what the date
would
> have been on that.]
> Marc
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Slightly OT: Historical Sewing Machine Question
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 15:49:34 -0500
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Do you have the right settings for the cam modification? There should be
three dials on the right hand side of the head.  One is the stitch length,
one is the zig-zag, and the other will have a red dot and probably 3/4 other
symbols or letters.  I think the 'u' is the right modifier for the cams.
Check your book for the right key..One of the symbols deals with geometric
patterns (sort of a running stitch) and I think you change it for the cute
little patterns.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2004 10:49 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Slightly OT: Historical Sewing Machine Question


> I would call and ask around.  It may be that the cams (I assume that is
what
> they are?) are just worn out...(seems unlikely)  I would explain what you
> know and see what they say...
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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>


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>From: "Bice d'Este" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>

Thank you, yes it's a very good journal.  I read it regularly.  
Unfortunately, "Archaeology" is not "Archeology Today"; nor do they appear 
to have published any articles on "King Solomon's mines" in 2003.

Marc

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] more from Swedens Gustavians
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Hi.
Finally uploaded all 50 pictures from the Gustavian Society!

Enjoy..............

http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/spring_party_for_gustafs1.htm



Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
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Subject: [h-cost] vintage aprons
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a workmate of mine is interested in making some aprons from the 50's.  Does anyone have any suggestions where she might find some photos of the same?

Thanks,

Lisa Sinervo 
             
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Lisa Sinervo wrote:

> a workmate of mine is interested in making some aprons from the 50's.  Does anyone have any suggestions where she might find some photos of the same?

period cookbooks come to mind....

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] vintage aprons
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Lisa Sinervo wrote:

> a workmate of mine is interested in making some aprons from the 50's.  Does anyone have any suggestions where she might find some photos of the same?
> 

Cookbooks, catalogs, period women's magazines .... that's where I'd 
start depending on which of those I could get from my local libraries.


Dawn



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] vintage aprons
From: Lynn Downward <LDownward@chori.org>
To: h costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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A couple of the big 4 (or are there only two now) had vintage-style patterns
last year when I went looking. I'm away from my patterns, but I think that
Butterick also had a couple. I think you can go to the Butterick website and
look there.

LynnD

On 3/17/04 2:27 PM, "Helen  Pinto" <hpinto@mindspring.com> wrote:

>> Lisa Sinervo wrote:
>> 
>>> a workmate of mine is interested in making some aprons from the 50's.
> Does anyone have any suggestions where she might find some photos of the
> same?
>>> 
> 
> Also, one of the "Big 4" pattern companies has reprinted a set of 50's-era
> patterns; I think it was Simplicity.  It was in the most recent catalog.
>                   -Helen/Aidan
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "H-Costume@Indra. Com" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: FW: [GermanRenCostume] Re: FW: [h-cost] black chemises-Cranach
	Painting?
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 09:35:56 -0700
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Is this the one?

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Tonda Fuller [mailto:hoyden_ish@hotmail.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2004 9:19 AM
To: GermanRenCostume@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [GermanRenCostume] Re: FW: [h-cost] black chemises-Cranach
Painting?

 

I've seen this discussion many times. The picture it has always been 
in reference to is the St. Catherine alter piece. One of the women is 
wearing some kind of "tucker" or chemisette, which is black. The only 
copy I can find on the internet is not a very good one. If I'm 
remembering the details correctly, in better reproductions you can 
see that she is wearing a white chemise under the black tucker (you 
can just barely make out the top edge at her neck in the online 
image).

-Tonda

http://www.abcgallery.com/C/cranach/cranach35.html







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I have a pattern for aprons from the 1950's. Have her email me at
goofy1@suscom.net and I can scan the cover for her.

Dianne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2004 5:00 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] vintage aprons


> Lisa Sinervo wrote:
>
> > a workmate of mine is interested in making some aprons from the 50's.
Does anyone have any suggestions where she might find some photos of the
same?
> >
>
> Cookbooks, catalogs, period women's magazines .... that's where I'd
> start depending on which of those I could get from my local libraries.
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: "kim baird" <kbaird@cableone.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] vintage aprons
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 17:10:52 -0600
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There are TONS of these for sale all the time on eBay. Go to
collectibles, vintage sewing, patterns

Kim

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Lisa Sinervo
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2004 3:39 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] vintage aprons

a workmate of mine is interested in making some aprons from the 50's.
Does anyone have any suggestions where she might find some photos of the
same?

Thanks,

Lisa Sinervo 
             
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Subject: Re: FW: [GermanRenCostume] Re: FW: [h-cost] black chemises-Cranach
	Painting?
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On Wed, 17 Mar 2004, Saragrace T. Knauf wrote:

> Is this the one?
>
> I've seen this discussion many times. The picture it has always been
> in reference to is the St. Catherine alter piece. One of the women is
> wearing some kind of "tucker" or chemisette, which is black.
>
> http://www.abcgallery.com/C/cranach/cranach35.html

	This is not the one I was referencing.  I don't have my book here
but it was one of Cranach's generic Portraits of a Young Woman.  Will look
to see if there's a more specific reference or citation for the painting
when I get home.  It's in the Cranach book by Max Friedlander and Jakob
Rosenberg.

--annora


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] vintage aprons
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Vintage apron patterns aren't that hard to find.  If she checks thift stores
she should be able find some.  She'll needs to check the odd ones that
aren't the major pattern companies, as those are frequently aprons. There
are also a couple of websites that sell older patterns.

I've a bunch of patterns I've picked up at yard sales and so forth.

Susan in Bellevue WA


> a workmate of mine is interested in making some aprons from the 50's.
Does anyone have any suggestions where she might find some photos of the
same?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Lisa Sinervo


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In a message dated 3/17/2004 4:39:57 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
Lisa-list@thrednedlestrete.com writes:

> a workmate of mine is interested in making some aprons from the 50's.

The 1950s I take it.

There are tons of them in "women's Magazines" from the period. Most libraries 
carry mags back to the early part of the 20th century. As you flip through, 
look at advertisements, especially in this case for kitchen related things like 
food and appliances. 

And there's also Sears and other catalogues from the decade. Also at many 
libraries.
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> Lisa Sinervo wrote:
>
> > a workmate of mine is interested in making some aprons from the 50's.
Does anyone have any suggestions where she might find some photos of the
same?
> >

Also, one of the "Big 4" pattern companies has reprinted a set of 50's-era
patterns; I think it was Simplicity.  It was in the most recent catalog.
                    -Helen/Aidan


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Subject: [h-cost] A doublet
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   My persona needs a new wardrobe that would be fitting for a noble
from the scottish highlands of the early to mid  1500's. He's a gaelic
and english speaker but due to his station in life, has fair wealth and
travels. He does treasure his gaelic roots and is a supporter of the
Stewart dynasty.
   Where might I find some good samples of what would be appropriate for
this fellow to wear to town? I'm actually interested in head to foot and
not just his jacket. I know many from his time dressed in the manner of
the Irish, such as the big sleeved leine, ionar and the brat. Would his
attire be in similar fashion?
Always learning,
Joe


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Oh Bjarne, 

I'm so envious that you get to go to these wonderful things!  The costumes are lovely (many look to be silk at least) but I was really wanting to know where the wigs came from - many are fabulous!  They couldn't be their real hair, could they?

Cheers,
Danielle

--------- Original Message ---------
>Hi.
>Finally uploaded all 50 pictures from the Gustavian Society!
>
>Enjoy..............
>
>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/spring_party_for_gustafs1.htm
>
>
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: FW: [GermanRenCostume] Re: FW: [h-cost] black
	chemises-CranachPainting?
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 20:41:14 -0600
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Is this the portrait?

http://www.thrednedlestrete.com/morse/Illustrations.htm

klick on young woman, by Cranach (the younger)

If it is, I am wondering if the lacing is a wide ribbon.

De

-----Original Message-----
	This is not the one I was referencing.  I don't have my book here
but it was one of Cranach's generic Portraits of a Young Woman.  Will look
to see if there's a more specific reference or citation for the painting
when I get home.  It's in the Cranach book by Max Friedlander and Jakob
Rosenberg.

--annora


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Mar 17 22:12:15 2004
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <f2.38370cf0.2d8a3836@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] vintage aprons
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Status: RO

I have a fantastic apron pattern collection from this period; it is made up
of commercial patterns as well as 'newspaper patterns' from the smaller
companies like Farm Journals.  What style(s) are you interested in?
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2004 6:24 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] vintage aprons


> In a message dated 3/17/2004 4:39:57 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> Lisa-list@thrednedlestrete.com writes:
>
> > a workmate of mine is interested in making some aprons from the 50's.
>
> The 1950s I take it.
>
> There are tons of them in "women's Magazines" from the period. Most
libraries
> carry mags back to the early part of the 20th century. As you flip
through,
> look at advertisements, especially in this case for kitchen related things
like
> food and appliances.
>
> And there's also Sears and other catalogues from the decade. Also at many
> libraries.
> _______________________________________________
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>


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Mar 17 23:45:08 2004
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From: annora <lisleong@k12.hi.us>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: FW: [h-cost] black chemises-CranachPainting?
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> Is this the portrait?
>
> http://www.thrednedlestrete.com/morse/Illustrations.htm

	Nope, if you have access to _Lucas_Cranach_ by Max Friedlander and
Jakob Rosenberg (revised edition, 1978), it's picture #171.  I can't run
it through my scanner but I've posted some blurry photos at
http://www.flex.com/~lkl/cranach/cranach1.jpg    and
http://www.flex.com/~lkl/cranach/cranach2.jpg

	The catalogue text is not too helpful but here's what it says:
PORTRAIT OF A YOUNG LADY
About 1525.  Marked at bottom right.  Limewood panel, 42.5 x 27.5 cm (16
3/4 x 10 3/4 inches).
	It has not yet been clearly established whether this and the
related group of female portraits (see following numbers) are bona fide
portraits or merely ideal types.  A study in oil of three girls' heads in
the Royal Institution of Cornwall at Truro [171A] is of about the same
vintage (Dodgson 1908, ill), as is a portrait of a young woman [171B[ 14
cm (5 1/2 inches) round, not signed, in Aix-en-Provence, Musee Granet
(exhib Basle 1974, cat nr 185, fig 150.)

	LITERATURE  Exhib Erfurt 1903, cat nr 171.  Friedlander 19505A, p
13.  F-R 1932, nr 146.
	COLLECTION  De Hartekamp near Haarlem, Frau von Pannwitz coll
(1932).  Vienna, Dr a . Figdor coll (auctioned at Berlin, Sept 29, 1930,
lot 100).  florence, Count Ruccellai.

	So according to that, this might not be a portrait of an actual
person and the clothing is not necessarily correct.  I'm not willing to
definitively say that the garment underneath the laced on gown is indeed
her shift, although Cranach gowns more usually have that opaque plastron
under the lacing.  However, I have another couple of blurry plates from
the same book, also without a plastron where you can see the
pleats/gathers under the lacing.  Both of those underdresses are white.
http://www.flex.com/~lkl/cranach/cranach3.jpg
http://www.flex.com/~lkl/cranach/cranach4.jpg
http://www.flex.com/~lkl/cranach/cranach5.jpg

	Caution though, 3 and 4 are Judith and 5 is Mary Magdalene so the
clothing may not be representative of what real people wore either.  It
doesn't show but there are also gathers above Judith's breast band; looks
to be gathered to the neck.  Gotta point out, the quality of the gathers
above and below the breast band is different.  It's finer above the band
although I suppose if you actually did lace on a gown that way things
would get mushed below the lacing.  Also, both Judith and MM's garments
are gathered to the neck.  The dark colored one is gathered to a band
across the upper chest.

	Other things--
-In almost all of the pictures in this book, the areas showing through
slits/slashes in the sleeves is dark, even if the underdress is white so
the dark areas in cranach1.jpg don't really give evidence one way or
another.

-If the shift was meant to be the garment that was subjected to boiling or
other harsh laundry treatment, how likely would people have been to waste
dye on it?

-In all 450+ pictures in the book, there is only that one that clearly
shows an underdress of that dark a color.  For people who've done a lot of
research into 16c German, do you think that's her shift or would there be
another layer worn beneath that?

--annora

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Mar 18 00:41:28 2004
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Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 21:39:54 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A doublet
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At 05:35 PM 3/17/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>    My persona needs a new wardrobe that would be fitting for a noble
>from the scottish highlands of the early to mid  1500's. He's a gaelic
>and english speaker but due to his station in life, has fair wealth and
>travels. He does treasure his gaelic roots and is a supporter of the
>Stewart dynasty.
>    Where might I find some good samples of what would be appropriate for
>this fellow to wear to town? I'm actually interested in head to foot and
>not just his jacket. I know many from his time dressed in the manner of
>the Irish, such as the big sleeved leine, ionar and the brat. Would his
>attire be in similar fashion?
>Always learning,
>Joe

There was no special style of dress for nobles from the highlands when they 
came "to town", so to speak.  They wore fashionable dress to the extent 
that they could afford it.  During the early to mid 1500s, the Scots 
maintained the Auld Alliance with France, so there was a great deal of 
French influence in upper-class dress styles.  James IV married Margaret 
Tudor, sister to Henry VIII of England, but with James's death at Flodden, 
English influence did not last.  Pride in your heritage would be shown more 
in the types of retainers you had (your "tail"), e.g., a harper, a bard to 
recount your heritage, etc., than in the style of clothes you wear at 
court.  Back home in the highlands you could dress in the "country style", 
but you would never do that in court.


Sine Ni Mharbhen
Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA

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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: FW: [h-cost] black chemises-CranachPainting?
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2004 00:37:51 -0600
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I have seen this picture on line somewhere, in color but I can't find the
link.

De
-----Original Message-----
	Nope, if you have access to _Lucas_Cranach_ by Max Friedlander and
Jakob Rosenberg (revised edition, 1978), it's picture #171.  I can't run
it through my scanner but I've posted some blurry photos at
http://www.flex.com/~lkl/cranach/cranach1.jpg    and
http://www.flex.com/~lkl/cranach/cranach2.jpg

	The catalogue text is not too helpful but here's what it says:
PORTRAIT OF A YOUNG LADY
About 1525.  Marked at bottom right.  Limewood panel, 42.5 x 27.5 cm (16
3/4 x 10 3/4 inches).
	It has not yet been clearly established whether this and the
related group of female portraits (see following numbers) are bona fide
portraits or merely ideal types.  A study in oil of three girls' heads in
the Royal Institution of Cornwall at Truro [171A] is of about the same
vintage (Dodgson 1908, ill), as is a portrait of a young woman [171B[ 14
cm (5 1/2 inches) round, not signed, in Aix-en-Provence, Musee Granet
(exhib Basle 1974, cat nr 185, fig 150.)

	LITERATURE  Exhib Erfurt 1903, cat nr 171.  Friedlander 19505A, p
13.  F-R 1932, nr 146.
	COLLECTION  De Hartekamp near Haarlem, Frau von Pannwitz coll
(1932).  Vienna, Dr a . Figdor coll (auctioned at Berlin, Sept 29, 1930,
lot 100).  florence, Count Ruccellai.

	So according to that, this might not be a portrait of an actual
person and the clothing is not necessarily correct.  I'm not willing to
definitively say that the garment underneath the laced on gown is indeed
her shift, although Cranach gowns more usually have that opaque plastron
under the lacing.  However, I have another couple of blurry plates from
the same book, also without a plastron where you can see the
pleats/gathers under the lacing.  Both of those underdresses are white.
http://www.flex.com/~lkl/cranach/cranach3.jpg
http://www.flex.com/~lkl/cranach/cranach4.jpg
http://www.flex.com/~lkl/cranach/cranach5.jpg

	Caution though, 3 and 4 are Judith and 5 is Mary Magdalene so the
clothing may not be representative of what real people wore either.  It
doesn't show but there are also gathers above Judith's breast band; looks
to be gathered to the neck.  Gotta point out, the quality of the gathers
above and below the breast band is different.  It's finer above the band
although I suppose if you actually did lace on a gown that way things
would get mushed below the lacing.  Also, both Judith and MM's garments
are gathered to the neck.  The dark colored one is gathered to a band
across the upper chest.

	Other things--
-In almost all of the pictures in this book, the areas showing through
slits/slashes in the sleeves is dark, even if the underdress is white so
the dark areas in cranach1.jpg don't really give evidence one way or
another.

-If the shift was meant to be the garment that was subjected to boiling or
other harsh laundry treatment, how likely would people have been to waste
dye on it?

-In all 450+ pictures in the book, there is only that one that clearly
shows an underdress of that dark a color.  For people who've done a lot of
research into 16c German, do you think that's her shift or would there be
another layer worn beneath that?

--annora

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Subject: [h-cost] Open surcote again
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Hi,

Thank you very much Robin, for your comments. Sorry, I don't have webspace 
myself, but I found an image online under: 
http://www.sbg.ac.at/ger/samson/samsonarchiv/trattnerbilder/bild14.jpg
The resolution is not the greatest, but you can see the general picture.

As to the date of the statues, there was a lecture in 2001 at the University 
of Salzburg in Austria, dealing with art at the court of Rudolf IV, a son of 
Johanna and Albrecht II, who commissioned the extensions of the Stephansdom 
in 1359. He also commissioned the four statues on the western front, his 
parents and his parents-in-law. This lecture can be read online, but it's in 
German. The link is 
http://www.sbg.ac.at/ger/samson/samsonarchiv/trattner2001.pdf

Irma Trattner (who wrote the lecture) states that there is no doubt that all 
four statues where produced between 1359 and 1365. She doesn't give a source 
for it, but I assume there will be, since I doubt such a statement would be 
made in a University lecture if there wasn't. Anyway, she states there was a 
discussion about Albrecht's II statue being executed in the 15th century in 
a sort of "retro 14th century look". This has apparently been proven wrong 
by L. Schultes (Author of Die Plastik in: Geschichte der bildenden Kunst in 
Oesterreich.....I can provide full details for anyone who is interested). 
There is actually the current theory that all four statues were made for a 
royal convention in 1353, where Rudolf IV apparently already recruited 
artisans to work on the Stephansdom. The leading sculptor is said to be the 
Michaelian Master, educated in Italy....

This is just a short summary of the pages in question, but all evidence 
seems to point to a date before 1365, rather then later.

I completely agree that the shape of the "plastron/whatever" is not in line 
with most other surcotes at the time. Other open surcote images though, 
particularly the Jeanne de Bourbon statue, have a skirt gathered into the 
hip part of the plastron and some other surcotes a little later have quite 
narrow plastrons with decorations. And on the other hand, there is the 
italian fresco with the girl who seems to be wearing a different coloured 
skirt to the bodice and also seems to have a lot more fabric in the skirt, 
so probably a seam at the hipline (Andrea da Firenze, The Church Militant 
and Triumphant, 1365-68) and the MOL Textiles and clothing also refers to a 
gathered panel, however, it's not certain that they were skirt pieces, so 
that might not count. I was just curious as to how much is known about this 
particular dress, since I think it could be a surcote, giving the way it 
looks, but there's the "overdress" belt happening.....

Thanks for your thoughts, I'm grateful for more....

Caithlinn

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Subject: [h-cost] Hand embroidered silks
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Hi all,

In this month's World of Interiors magazine, there is an article on 
Beaumont & Fletcher's new line of hand-embroidered reproduction 
eighteenth century silk fabrics. Very, very beautiful, and yours from a 
mere £135 to £875 per metre..... They don't give a website, but the 
magazine photos are pretty good.
Sigh.

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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Catalina=20Saravia=20Quicedo?= <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A doublet
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Most of the Scottish Nobility, but not all were more
influenced by the French than English in manners and
dress. for a supporter of the Stewarts this would be
especially true. The few portraits that can be
reliably dated to the early 1500's, i.e young James
VI, show men in doublets, trunk hose, etc, pretty much
like the nobility dressed in Spain and France. There
are several contemporary accounts denouncing Scots
Nobles for their lack of fashion sense in that they
insisted on wearing their 'bonnets' even to court. I
don't have the actual reference at hand right now. But
there is also a hint that their clothing may have been
10-15 years behind current fashion. There are a lot of
paintings showing various nobles in 'tartans' but
these appear to be Victorian productions.

Catalina
(married to a descendant of Duncan Eryvine) 



 --- Joe Robertson <joedr@charter.net> wrote: >    My
persona needs a new wardrobe that would be
> fitting for a noble
> from the scottish highlands of the early to mid 
> 1500's. He's a gaelic
> and english speaker but due to his station in life,
> has fair wealth and
> travels. He does treasure his gaelic roots and is a
> supporter of the
> Stewart dynasty.
>    Where might I find some good samples of what
> would be appropriate for
> this fellow to wear to town? I'm actually interested
> in head to foot and
> not just his jacket. I know many from his time
> dressed in the manner of
> the Irish, such as the big sleeved leine, ionar and
> the brat. Would his
> attire be in similar fashion?
> Always learning,
> Joe
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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=====
Catalina
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] more from Swedens Gustavians
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I really like the look at the man in the salmon
coloured coat with the gold trim. I wish I knew more
about this period to know how accurate that is. Thank
you for posting these.

Catalina.



 --- Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
wrote: > Hi.
> Finally uploaded all 50 pictures from the Gustavian
> Society!
> 
> Enjoy..............
> 
>
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/spring_party_for_gustafs1.htm
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> _______________________________________________
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=====
Catalina
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Subject: [h-cost] Re:A doublet (long)
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Hi Joe...

OK... a couple of things for you to consider...
	
At this time it wasn't so much a question of supporting the Stewarts, 
although political questions of Mary's legitimacy do arise in Edinburgh but 
that's another story... It's really a question of where do your religious 
leanings lie.  Is your persona Catholic - hence a supporter of Mary, and 
probably with exposure to the French court.  Or is your persona Protestant 
- hence a supporter of Knox, and a follower of the austerity in 
fashion.   Hint,  most Highland nobles were staunchly Catholic.  And there 
was/is a strong cultural difference between highland and the 
"lallands".   Again that's a different post.

SO,  bearing all that in mind...  it really isn't a question of cut of the 
doublet so much... as it is a question of materials and 
decoration.   Supporters of Mary tended to wear more liberal or "gay" 
clothing than the Knoxians  including patterned silks, damasks, bright 
colors, slashing etc. Check out the Lord High Treasurers (Exchequers) roles 
from Scotland at the time to find out how Mary was spending her money... 
Although, keep in mind in the early years of her reign,  and for a long 
time at the end she wore mourning.  So you might find a heavy skew of 
black, grey, and purple items....

Knoxians were all into sobriety.  Not necessarily self denial - as long as 
it looked sober.  So a black velvet doublet would probably fly as long as 
it was not pinked,  or slashed,  or overly done with 
folderol.  (trim)  Plain woolen is the most likely material for the  Knox 
supporters,  dark colors,  black, grey, brown, perhaps blue or murray (?) 
but I'm not going to swear to those.  Places to check out are the surmons 
of John Knox,  and Philip Stubbes "Anatomie of Abuses" -  they spent alot 
of time railing against what the other folks were wearing,  and advocating 
plainness.

And lastly... for the cut and construction go look at Janet Arnold's 
"Patterns of Fashion" ...

As for the Irish question... not really.  There was a series of battles - 
Not really a 'war' more like attempts to subdue the Irish.  OK I guess that 
counts as a war...  by the English at the time.   And there is a very 
famous picture of an Englishman "gone native" in his efforts to subdue the 
enemy.  Don't buy it as historical  evidence of anything.  Except as a very 
good example of historical "political pr".  There is a lot of "context" 
that goes with that painting...  And again that's another post.

If you have other evidence though - I'd be thrilled to see it.

Ways to demonstrate your highlandness through your dress... hmmm...  A 
brooch or pin perhaps....  Silver is common in the highlands,  but the 
MacFadden family is known to be goldsmiths all the way back to the mid 
1400s.   Please - no modern kilt pins, the oversize baby pin or the 
sword,  and please none of those huge round brooches that the highland 
dancers wear for their plaids,  oh and not a "cap badge" as sold by the 
scottish purveyors.   A grouse foot??   I don't know.  Seems pretty 
Victorian in origin to me.  But a pheasant feather in your cap is certainly 
appropriate.  The cap could be a flat cap... knitted or made of a fabric - 
again see Arnold.   The cap may seem to "English" to you... but they were 
ubiquitious,  and add a feather and a brooch and you suddenly have a bit of 
the highlands ...

OK.  I've gone on far too long.  If you have any other questions... just 
ping.
Bridgette

mka.  Mari Stewart - former piper, highland dancer, and purveyor of 
Scottish goods.   

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Open surcote again
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On Thu, 18 Mar 2004, Cornelia Muncke wrote:

> Thank you very much Robin, for your comments. Sorry, I don't have
> webspace myself, but I found an image online under:  
> http://www.sbg.ac.at/ger/samson/samsonarchiv/trattnerbilder/bild14.jpg
> The resolution is not the greatest, but you can see the general
> picture.

And something that both of us neglected to point out earlier for the
benefit of others reading this thread: Both of the statues (including one
not in the online image) are in Newton, p. 95, with discussion on pp.
94-96. (Newton seems much more interested in the headgear, though.)

> As to the date of the statues, there was a lecture in 2001 at the
> University of Salzburg in Austria, dealing with art at the court of
> Rudolf IV, a son of Johanna and Albrecht II, who commissioned the
> extensions of the Stephansdom in 1359. ... Irma Trattner (who wrote
> the lecture) states that there is no doubt that all four statues where
> produced between 1359 and 1365. She doesn't give a source for it, but
> I assume there will be, since I doubt such a statement would be made
> in a University lecture if there wasn't.

At this point I feel compelled to point out, for purposes of information,
that there is plenty said in University lectures that is theory only. It
is considered customary for a researcher to present a "case" for his/her
particular theory in lecture form, often before an esteemed audience.
Someone else may present a contrary case elsewhere. Each of them will
probably sound equally compelling and certain. This is how academic
discussion takes place -- a lecture here, a paper there. For that matter,
the same can be said for many books. Academic thinking on any given idea
may be constantly undergoing change, and many ideas can probably never be
"proven." I have also noticed that it seems more customary among European
researchers to state theories as fact, for rhetorical purposes; Americans
tend to be more diffident and to sprinkle in more phrases like "I would
suggest that..." This is a stylistic difference that often trips up
students who may attribute more certainty to one theory over another based
on the language and attitude of the presenter.

All of this is not meant to argue about the dating on the statues, about
which I know absolutely nothing, and I have no particular reason to
question Trattner's statements. But the fact that she is building a case
and also that there has been some discussion of alternative dates suggests
to me that there is room for debate -- and that debate is occurring. She
may very well be right, but the fact that it's presented at a University
lecture doesn't have much to do with that, one way or the other!

> There is actually the current theory that all four statues were made
> for a royal convention in 1353, where Rudolf IV apparently already
> recruited artisans to work on the Stephansdom. The leading sculptor is
> said to be the Michaelian Master, educated in Italy....

Tha strikes me as important. Italian styles (both in fashion and in
stonecarving) would have been quite different from those further north at
this time, and some discrepancies in presentation may reflect the use of
Italian mode. It's a better explanation than some of the others!

> I completely agree that the shape of the "plastron/whatever" is not in
> line with most other surcotes at the time. Other open surcote images
> though, particularly the Jeanne de Bourbon statue, have a skirt
> gathered into the hip part of the plastron...

This is a little off-track as I think we both feel that the Vienna statues
are probably not sideless surcotes. However, I should note that the skirt
of the Jeanne de Bourbon statue does not appear to be gathered into the
fur band at the hips (though it is commonly assumed as such). A close look
will show that the fur band folds and "bends" into the same folds as the
skirt falling below it, indicating that the fur is a decoration applied to
the fabric of the skirt, rather than the skirt being gathered into the fur
band. This is unfortunately not clear from the somewhat washed-out image
in Payne, fig. 209 (of the first edition). A clearer image appears on p.
76 of a coffee-table picture book called "The Lives of the Kings and
Queens of France" by Duc de Castries, for anyone interested. I have taken
slides of the statue from the Louvre, but I confess I haven't been through
them yet and probably won't have time to do so for the next couple of
months, so maybe I will have to eat these words if they show something
different. (Anyone who is interested, jog me in June or later to look
these up.) It does appear that on the front of the surcote, the folds
emerge from under the plastron. This could be interpreted as gathering
into the plastron, but based on the folding on the sides and the placement
of the plastron as a separate piece over the side fur bands, I would give
an alternate reading: That the surcote was cut as one fabric from shoulder
to floor, in a particular cut that allows the skirt to fall in folds all
the way around, and trimmed with fur on the side openings; and then the
plastron was laid over the top, so at the bottom it falls over the folds
of the dress front, and is then either tacked down over them or left free
to lie on top of them, with the front jeweled band hanging even lower in
front of *that*. Practical experimentation bears out that this is a far
more manageable way to achieve the look and the folding patterns than
trying to gather or pleat the skirt into a fur "bodice." (Those of you on
the list who have seen me demonstrate my preferred surcote cut will know
what I mean; it's a lot more dramatic in person!)

But this probably has nothing to do with the Vienna statues.

> And on the other hand, there is the italian fresco with the girl who
> seems to be wearing a different coloured skirt to the bodice and also
> seems to have a lot more fabric in the skirt, so probably a seam at
> the hipline (Andrea da Firenze, The Church Militant and Triumphant,
> 1365-68)

This is why I could swallow the idea of a hipline seam easier if it came
via Italy. Though I don't think the statues necessarily show hipline
seams; it's hard to tell from the pictures in the book whether the small
hint at the front of one of them could simply be natural folding from a
flare, though Newton wants to see it as controlled cartridge pleating.

> and the MOL Textiles and clothing also refers to a gathered panel,
> however, it's not certain that they were skirt pieces, so that might
> not count.

Even the MOL people aren't really certain about this find, and there are
quite a few people (including me) who consider it unlikely that these are
skirt panels. If I had to make a guess, I'd suggest that it's more likely
that these are the remnants of a child's cloak or perhaps a worker's
apron. In addition to the structure and size of the pieces themselves
(rather small!) it seems a lot more likely to me that a child would lose a
cloak in the Thames on a windy day, or that an apron would fall from where
it lay on, say, the back of a moving cart, or that either would be tossed
into the garbage after it became too worn, than that someone would lose a
dress, of which the entire skirt appears to have survived in near
proximity, but the bodice is nowhere to be found.

But that's just random speculation, and I haven't seen the pieces myself.
The point being merely that I agree this is not a good piece of evidence
on which to base a case for hipline seams in the 14th c.

Back to the Vienna statues: Two more points that are worth following, if
you care to do more investigation on this, are status and region. On the
first, we should note that the people in question are queens, and their
dress would be designed to indicate that status -- possibly being more
sumptuous even than worn in life, or to include outdated or exotic
elements designed to scream to the viewer of the time that these are not
regular folks. That means the dress would definitely not be a suitable
model for non-royal clothing, and it might also be non-representative of
what the queens wore in life. As for region, it might be worth looking
East instead of West for things like front vertical embellishments,
particularly on royalty and figures such as angels.

--Robin


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Subject: RE: FW: [h-cost] black chemises-CranachPainting?
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http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/MI01488F07a.jpg

 

Here is another possible example.  Now, I must warn you that the picture is
not dated, and smells of "Later" to me.  Also the description says Portrait
of a woman in Renaissance "garb" or fashion..

I can find no reference to Huelleshoven the artist.

 

Sg

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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2004 12:27:37 -0500
Subject: Re: [h-cost] vintage aprons
From: ruthanne baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
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on 3/17/04 5:27 PM, Helen  Pinto at hpinto@mindspring.com wrote:

>> Lisa Sinervo wrote:
>> 
>>> a workmate of mine is interested in making some aprons from the 50's.
> Does anyone have any suggestions where she might find some photos of the
> same?
>>> 
> 
> Also, one of the "Big 4" pattern companies has reprinted a set of 50's-era
> patterns; I think it was Simplicity.  It was in the most recent catalog.
> -Helen/Aidan
> 
It's probably McCall's "Fashion Accessories", #3979. This includes two full
aprons and three "hostess" half-aprons. The full aprons are somewhat over
the top (most of my grandmother's and mother's were all one piece and these
are pieced and have rather fancy shapes) but are pretty credible. I used
this pattern as the basis for a plainer apron I needed for a costume--it was
easy to simplify and otherwise adapt.

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar-gypsy and amateur costumer

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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2004 09:53:27 -0800
From: Lynn Downward <LDownward@chori.org>
To: h costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Thanks - haberject
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Thank you all for the really interesting discussion regarding the word
"haberject."

I forwarded every message to my husband who is digesting it into one big
document to send it to the original list where the question arose. He was
not really surprised how great the responses are on this list to such out of
the ordinary topic.

LynnD

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Black chemises
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I just sent this to the GermanRenCostume group, but since it explains more
clearly what I'm looking for and the conversation is going on in both
places,
I thought I'd post it here as well:

--------------
First of all, any written mention of such a thing from c1450-c1540 would
help ENORMOUSLY, including that black shirt thing. Even male garments!
Second, while I'd be overjoyed to find anything Germanic, I'm actually
focusing on Flanders and the bits of countries immediately bordering it.

And third, here's WHY I'm looking for it. See, a certain style of dress seen
c1475-c1525 (fitted square necked gowns, of the sort that evolved into the
familiar early to mid 16thC Tudor style) has this feature that only makes
sense structurally if a black chemise (or possibly a bizarre sort of tucker)
is worn beneath the gown. These dresses are often lined with white fur (not
necessarily ermine) which peeks out over the top of the neckline.
Beneath that, you often see what at first glance looks like a band of
black trim edging the neckline. In German and Dutch areas, this often
actually IS applied black fabric, but on many of the French and Flemish
gowns,
it can't be, because of that fur peeking out. Structurally speaking, you'd
have to have applied the black trim to the fur side of the lining, which
...just doesn't work. (I even tried it, with an ermine pelt. Nightmare.) It
is
possible to add this as trim, by adding an extra strip of fur at the
neckline, but
that's just silly and impractical when the rest of the gown is already
fur-lined--
although it would have a function, as it would protect the fur from skin
oils in
a spot that the underdress wouldn't quite cover.  Whatever it is, it's not
an
undergown, because in many of the depictions the undergown is clearly
shown, and it's not black.

Here's an example:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp2/1512france.jpg
While this is obviously allegorical, it's a good demonstration of the
various
elements I keep seeing in non-allegorical images: the gown is clearly lined
in
ermine, which peeks out over the top at the neck, and the undergown is
clearly blue, not black. Yet at the neck, there's about a 1 inch deep border
of
black.

Because the unknown thing in question is black, I just can't see enough
detail in any of the portraits that show it to figure out exactly what's
going on. However, at around the same time (c1500-c1530) portraits show an
almost identical thing--except in these, the thing in question is white, and
it's almost certainly a chemise whose neckline mimics that of the overdress.
Every portrait of Catherine of Aragon, for example, shows this. Here are a
few paintings from a very quick search:
http://www.marileecody.com/aragon1.jpg (this gown is most like those I'm
dealing with)
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/cathyold1.jpg
http://www.marileecody.com/kofa-monkey.jpg

And this one doesn't quite show it, but brings up questions about my theory:
http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/html/m/master/yunk_en/boleyn.html
In this, the edge stitching indicates that it might NOT be a separate
chemise--interesting, but it's enough later in date that the actual garment
may have evolved into a simple edging.

The last painting aside, if I were to make that garment, in black, I'd get
exactly the effect I'm seeing. But BLACK, for an undermost garment? I'd feel
a LOT better if I had something more solid than "well, it just doesn't work
any other way!"

-E

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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Cathy/ Black chemises
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The squiggle white band is embroidery on the chemise.
The pearl and gem border looks to be on the underdress. The pale color on
the shoulders are a part of the sleeve of the overdress, pulled back and
pinned to the shoulder, exposing the lining. The gold sleeves are called
false sleeves. They cover the wrist to the elbow or a few inches above the
elbow.

De
-----Original Message-----


(this gown is most like those I'm
dealing with)
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/cathyold1.jpg


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Subject: [h-cost] RE:monkey/ Black chemises
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The piece near the neck that has bows is a partlett.
the white with black dots is the chemise.
The white dots on black are probably pearls sewn to the over dress.
The ermine lining of the sleeves are exposed by being pulled back and
connected to the shoulder region. She is wearing false sleeves that match
her bodice.

De

-----Original Message-----


http://www.marileecody.com/kofa-monkey.jpg


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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: FW: [h-cost] black chemises-CranachPainting?
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2004 15:06:54 -0600
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This portrait has a date of 1941. I tend to call garments Germanic more than
German because Germany was several principalities. Garments varied some from
principalty to Principality.
The front of her outfit looks like a fur under bodice. This is the first
time I have seen fur on the outside like that( don't mean they didn't do
that, it's just a bit odd to me). The over bodice meets/ is closed in the
front. The darker section under the hand looks to be a band of velvet ribbon
that runs down the front.
Though there is a slim possibility that this is a reproduction dress from an
original or several originals, I would say that this would not be what I
would base 1500's dress on.
>From what I understand there is a debate among costumers as to what the
"white" section is (that has the lacing on top). Some have said it is an
under dress with a with border on top. Others the chemise with a wide band
on top. And still other say it is a corset.
I myself am inclined to believe all the above.

De

-----Original Message-----

http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/MI01488F07a.jpg



Here is another possible example.  Now, I must warn you that the picture is
not dated, and smells of "Later" to me.  Also the description says Portrait
of a woman in Renaissance "garb" or fashion..

I can find no reference to Huelleshoven the artist.



Sg

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Subject: [h-cost] RE:Last portrait/ Black chemises
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It was customary for the necklaces to fall under the chemise.
The chemise is embroidered with black floss and edged in what appears to be
picoting/needlelace. Then the jeweled border on the overdress.

De

-----Original Message-----


The last painting aside, if I were to make that garment, in black, I'd get
exactly the effect I'm seeing. But BLACK, for an undermost garment? I'd feel
a LOT better if I had something more solid than "well, it just doesn't work
any other way!"

-E

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE:monkey/ Black chemises
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In each case it is the chemise I'm talking about; if it were black, it would
be the garment I'm seeking. It's not; it's white, but this illustrates the
specific garment.

-E

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Subject: Re: FW: [h-cost] black chemises-CranachPainting?
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otsisto wrote:

> This portrait has a date of 1941. 

That's the acquisition date, when the museum purchased it. Just means 
that the picture is older than that.


> 
> -----Original Message-----
> 
> http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/MI01488F07a.jpg
> 
> 



Dawn




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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Mar 18 17:39:33 2004
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Subject: [h-cost] Flanders    was: Black chemises
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If you are looking for Flanders style of clothing, Anne of Cleves is from
Flanders and is within the time period you speak, only the style of dress is
different from the English tudor style.
http://tudorhistory.org/cleves/clevesnew.jpg
There is a costumer who has sewn her interpretation of this dress but in
blue(?)don't have the link at this time.

De

-----Original Message-----
I'm actually
focusing on Flanders and the bits of countries immediately bordering it.


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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Black chemises
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2004 16:39:25 -0600
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The blue sleeves, in my opinion are false sleeves and not the sleeves of the
underdress.
The black band is either the underdress or an embroidered band attached to
the chemise.

De
PS. Will keep my eyes open for colored chemises.

-----Original Message-----
Here's an example:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp2/1512france.jpg
While this is obviously allegorical, it's a good demonstration of the
various
elements I keep seeing in non-allegorical images: the gown is clearly lined
in
ermine, which peeks out over the top at the neck, and the undergown is
clearly blue, not black.

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Subject: RE: FW: [h-cost] black chemises-CranachPainting?
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This painting was purchased in 1941, not painted.  And as I said it looks
later, but how much later is unknown.  If it was painted in the 1700's it
may still be based on a real garment.  Until you know the actual date of the
painting, I wouldn't completely write it off.  Fur had not occurred to me.
I thought finely pleated velvet (there is at least one bodice where they did
this, though not with velvet.)

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of otsisto
> Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2004 2:07 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: RE: FW: [h-cost] black chemises-CranachPainting?
> 
> This portrait has a date of 1941. I tend to call garments Germanic more
than
> German because Germany was several principalities. Garments varied some
from
> principalty to Principality.
> The front of her outfit looks like a fur under bodice. This is the first
> time I have seen fur on the outside like that( don't mean they didn't do
> that, it's just a bit odd to me). The over bodice meets/ is closed in the
> front. The darker section under the hand looks to be a band of velvet
ribbon
> that runs down the front.
> Though there is a slim possibility that this is a reproduction dress from
an
> original or several originals, I would say that this would not be what I
> would base 1500's dress on.
> >From what I understand there is a debate among costumers as to what the
> "white" section is (that has the lacing on top). Some have said it is an
> under dress with a with border on top. Others the chemise with a wide band
> on top. And still other say it is a corset.
> I myself am inclined to believe all the above.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Black chemises
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2004 16:52:42 -0600
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It's possible that in this specific case the sleeves are false. However, in
several similar depictions, the skirt of the underdress is visible; the
skirt matches the sleeves, and neither are black.

I've considered the idea of black trim on a white chemise, and that may be
the answer. However, there's no non-black analog, and there are no examples
of anything at all similar. The closest thing would be embroidery, and the
item in question bears no resemblance to embroidery. It's always pure and
simple black; in order to be embroidery it would have to be an inch wide
band of satin stitching, which would be just silly.

-E

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>

> The blue sleeves, in my opinion are false sleeves and not the sleeves of
the
> underdress.
> The black band is either the underdress or an embroidered band attached to
> the chemise.
>
> De
> PS. Will keep my eyes open for colored chemises.

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Subject: [h-cost] Early Period Bra Straps, or: What ARE those white things?
To: h-costume@indra.com
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This is something I have always wondered about, and have researched 
sporadically, and never found a really definitive answer on.

http://www.npg.org.uk/live/search/portrait.asp?mkey=mw01144

What ARE those white straps???  I've seen them in so many early 16th century 
paintings and they even put some on Jane Seymour's country costume in the BBC 
Six Wives series, but I cannot for the life of me figure out what they are or 
what they're for.

-Tiff
Reflections*of*Worth on eBay
"I have the right to remain silent ... I just don't have the ability."
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Subject: Re: FW: [h-cost] black chemises-CranachPainting?
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I've noticed that the Germans wear fur a lot less often in the late 15th and
early 16th century than nearby regions, including regions whose climate was
warmer. Does anyone know why?

-E

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2004 3:33 PM
Subject: RE: FW: [h-cost] black chemises-CranachPainting?


> This painting was purchased in 1941, not painted.  And as I said it looks
> later, but how much later is unknown.  If it was painted in the 1700's it
> may still be based on a real garment.  Until you know the actual date of
the
> painting, I wouldn't completely write it off.  Fur had not occurred to me.
> I thought finely pleated velvet (there is at least one bodice where they
did
> this, though not with velvet.)

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Flanders    was: Black chemises
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Thanks, but the Anne of Cleves dress is completely different from the style
I focus on, which could be summed up as the million variations on
square-necked gowns in France and Flanders.

-E

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>


> If you are looking for Flanders style of clothing, Anne of Cleves is from
> Flanders and is within the time period you speak, only the style of dress
is
> different from the English tudor style.
> http://tudorhistory.org/cleves/clevesnew.jpg
> There is a costumer who has sewn her interpretation of this dress but in
> blue(?)don't have the link at this time.

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Sg wrote:
> Here is another possible example.  Now, I must warn you that the picture
is
> not dated, and smells of "Later" to me.  Also the description says
Portrait
> of a woman in Renaissance "garb" or fashion..
>
> I can find no reference to Huelleshoven the artist.
>

Here's a reference to L. von Hulleshoven, 19c. artist (no further
information, but this is a very long list of artists):
http://www.comanducci.it/italiano/risultati.asp?ricerca=VON%20HULLESHOVEN%20L.

                -Helen/Aidan



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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2004 16:11:06 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Early Period Bra Straps, or: What ARE those white things?
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>This is something I have always wondered about, and have researched
>sporadically, and never found a really definitive answer on.
>
>http://www.npg.org.uk/live/search/portrait.asp?mkey=mw01144
>
>What ARE those white straps???  I've seen them in so many early 16th century
>paintings and they even put some on Jane Seymour's country costume in the BBC
>Six Wives series, but I cannot for the life of me figure out what they are or
>what they're for.

We go around and around on this from time to time on this list, and nobody 
yet has reached an agreement of what they really are nor been able to 
document their original function either.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
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Subject: [h-cost] CostumeCon22 in Atlanta
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CostumeCon 22 is coming up very soon - April 2-4 in Atlanta, GA.
Is anyone from this list going to be there?


Nora 

"Party like a Lizard, on the Drunken Iguana"
www.casamai.com/slcg/pirates.htm
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: black chemises
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In the dress you referred to here:

"Here's an example:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp2/1512france.jpg
While this is obviously allegorical, it's a good demonstration of the
various elements I keep seeing in non-allegorical images: the gown is
clearly lined in ermine, which peeks out over the top at the neck, and the
undergown is clearly blue, not black. Yet at the neck, there's about a 1
inch deep border of black."

the black "border" looks to me like simply the top of the underdress, and
not a chemise at all.

Gail Finke

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From: Karinne Taylor <ktay0998@mail.usyd.edu.au>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: black chemises
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But the underdress colour is blue, as can be seen on the sleeves. I think it 
might be a partlet/gollar with a square neck cut into it that sits under the 
overdress and under the (blue) underdress. Most evidence I've seen has these 
partlets as "V" necks, but it is possible that they could be cut as a square. 
Has any one else evidence of this, or other examples? 

Karinne

Quoting Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>:

> 
> In the dress you referred to here:
> 
>> "Here's an example:
>> http://www.formfunction.org/temp2/1512france.jpg
> 
> the black "border" looks to me like simply the top of the underdress, and
> not a chemise at all.
> 
> Gail Finke
> 



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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2004 21:56:40 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Sheryl Nance-Durst <sherylnd@kc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hand embroidered silks
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Their website is
http://www.beaumontandfletcher.com

I didn't see any hand-embroidered fabrics, but the fabrics that they DO
have listed are very pretty.

Sheryl N-D

At 12:26 PM 3/18/04 +0000, you wrote:
>Hi all,
>
>In this month's World of Interiors magazine, there is an article on 
>Beaumont & Fletcher's new line of hand-embroidered reproduction eighteenth 
>century silk fabrics. Very, very beautiful, and yours from a mere £135 to 
>£875 per metre..... They don't give a website, but the magazine photos are 
>pretty good.
>Sigh.
>
>_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Black chemises
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I've considered the idea of black trim on a white chemise, and that may be
the answer. However, there's no non-black analog, and there are no examples
of anything at all similar. The closest thing would be embroidery, and the
item in question bears no resemblance to embroidery. It's always pure and
simple black; in order to be embroidery it would have to be an inch wide
band of satin stitching, which would be just silly.

In Hispanic Costume 1480-1530, Ruth Anderson mentions some Spanish royal inventories where chemises were described as trimmed in colored ribbons or strips of fabric.  Most of the royal ones were trimmed in gold but the Infanta Isabel had strips "of red silk on one linen chemise and of black silk on another."  In 1479, a duchess "left a chemise of holland with insertions of crimson, gold and white."  

Of course, the Spanish had some very peculiar clothing in the Middle Ages but by the time you are interested in, Charles and his court were back and forth between Spain and Germany with some frequency.

Janet
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Mar 19 01:00:17 2004
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Hi all,

I had to share this find... I only wish I had the huge bucks to get this 
book for my research materials (sigh).

1581 SIGNED QUEEN ELIZABETH PRAYER BK-John Evelyn-Bible
OWNED+SIGNED BY JOHN EVELYN-WOODCUTS EVERY PG
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3596008962&category=29220&sspagename=STRK%3AMEBWA%3AIT&rd=1

Take a look at the photos. It is incredible the details of the woodcuts, 
and it isn't the best of images! Oh, to be able to study this book in its 
entirety.

Enjoy all.

Kimiko


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Mar 19 03:56:47 2004
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Hello Danielle,
The gustavians has a very talented wigmaker. She is called Carina Rosén. I
sended her a picture of the danish king Christian VII wich i liked, and she
made me one that looks very like. I am so happy for it because the other
ones i have, looks much more synthetic.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Danielle Nunn-Weinberg" <dannw@eudoramail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2004 1:10 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] more from Swedens Gustavians


> Oh Bjarne,
>
> I'm so envious that you get to go to these wonderful things!  The costumes
are lovely (many look to be silk at least) but I was really wanting to know
where the wigs came from - many are fabulous!  They couldn't be their real
hair, could they?
>
> Cheers,
> Danielle
>
> --------- Original Message ---------
> >Hi.
> >Finally uploaded all 50 pictures from the Gustavian Society!
> >
> >Enjoy..............
> >
> >http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/spring_party_for_gustafs1.htm
> >
> >
> >
> >Leif og Bjarne Drews
> >www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> >
> >http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> >_______________________________________________
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>
>
>
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This week our first school subscribed to our library.  The fashion design students are located in Australia.  I am looking for fashion publications to put in my library that were circulated in their country that are out of copyright.  I know that Ladies Home Journal was circulated in Australia as early as 1893, and Delineator Magazine in the 1880s.  Does anyone know of any other early fashion publications?
  
Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
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Subject: RE: FW: [h-cost] black chemises-CranachPainting?
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Thanks Helen!  I was pretty sure it was 'later'....

> Here's a reference to L. von Hulleshoven, 19c. artist (no further
> information, but this is a very long list of artists):
> http://www.comanducci.it/italiano/risultati.asp?ricerca=VON%20HULLESHOVEN%
> 20L.
> 
>                 -Helen/Aidan


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From: "Talia" <khanson@kc.rr.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] SPAM: eBay find of 1581 Elizabethan Prayer book
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2004 07:21:39 -0600
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When I see things like this on Ebay, it always makes me wonder why they are
selling it on Ebay. I mean, for something like this, why wouldn't they use a
reputable auction house like Sothebys?

Talia


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Subject: [h-cost] ebay castle
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Amazing what you find on ebay. I have some doubts about this one.

De
-----Original Message-----

http://cgi.msn.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2384980194&category=
  >  > > 
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Catalina=20Saravia=20Quicedo?= <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ebay castle
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I wonder if they already have a gaurantee from the
crown to confirm the baronial title or if they have a
promise of "consideration".

Catalina



 --- otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote: > Amazing
what you find on ebay. I have some doubts
> about this one.
> 
> De
> -----Original Message-----
> 
>
http://cgi.msn.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2384980194&category=
>   >  > > 
> _______________________________________________
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> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

=====
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Subject: RE: [h-cost]  eBay find of 1581 Elizabethan Prayer book
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a lot of ebay auctions are also listed on Sothebys.
Look up some of their artwork or diamond auctions.

Catalina


 --- Talia <khanson@kc.rr.com> wrote: > When I see
things like this on Ebay, it always makes
> me wonder why they are
> selling it on Ebay. I mean, for something like this,
> why wouldn't they use a
> reputable auction house like Sothebys?
> 
> Talia
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

=====
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Austalian Fashion Magazines
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2004 06:20:51 -0800
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A good overview of Australian fashion is found in the book "Parade - The
Story of Fashion in Australia" by Alexandra Joel, published by
HarperCollinsPublishers.  Last printing 1998 - www.harpercollins.com.au

Great book covering 1778 to the 1990's.  A quick (very) looks shows "The
HOME - The Australian Journal of Quality"  being printed in as early as the
1920's covering such topics as the Miss Australia competition and other
society happenings, fashion too of course.  The "Australian Women's
Weekly" - still published and popular today started in 1933.  HOME appears
throughout the book in references so I'd suspect that was a major
publication.

Lisa Sinervo
www.thrednedlestrete.com


----- Original Message -----
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, March 19, 2004 1:56 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Austalian Fashion Magazines


This week our first school subscribed to our library.  The fashion design
students are located in Australia.  I am looking for fashion publications to
put in my library that were circulated in their country that are out of
copyright.  I know that Ladies Home Journal was circulated in Australia as
early as 1893, and Delineator Magazine in the 1880s.  Does anyone know of
any other early fashion publications?

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pictures Dickens
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Deredere wrote: 

> I finally have some pictures of the Dickens evenr I went to.
> The one in the red dress is me.
> http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Dickens/Dickens.html
> 


It's lovely, Deredere; as always with your work!

best wishes
Stevie



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Drool....
I'd love to go, but I've got family commitments this summer that are 
keeping me from traveling much.  (My baby brother's getting married for 
the first time, and I gotta save my money and vacation time for 
traveling down there.  Mind you, got *no* idea what to wear, as they 
don't do any sort of reenactment, and I kinda stick to tee shirts and 
jeans in the 21st c.....;o)
--sue, rambling....

Bruce & Nora Mai wrote:

> CostumeCon 22 is coming up very soon - April 2-4 in Atlanta, GA.
> Is anyone from this list going to be there?
>

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Hello All! 

I'll be there. I'm not sure which outfits I'll be bringing, but I'm looking forward to seeing Atlanta and going to all the cool programming.....if I can just figure this Harry Potter thing out.....

Karen


Bruce & Nora Mai wrote:

> CostumeCon 22 is coming up very soon - April 2-4 in Atlanta, GA.
> Is anyone from this list going to be there?
>



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Sue Clemenger wrote:

> Mind you, got *no* idea what to wear, as they 
> don't do any sort of reenactment, and I kinda stick to tee shirts and 
> jeans in the 21st c.....;o)

Calf length princess dress in a summery print. The style goes anywhere 
and is classic enough to last for years. Decades even.

It's not the modern clothes so much as getting into a dress without a 
corset and petticoats that makes me feel awkward. :)



Dawn



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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Early Period Bra Straps, or: What ARE those white things?
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Someone on the list whose name escapes me has a fairly comprehensive write
up on their website...someone will remember....

> 
> We go around and around on this from time to time on this list, and nobody
> yet has reached an agreement of what they really are nor been able to
> document their original function either.


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> Someone on the list whose name escapes me has a fairly comprehensive 
> write
> up on their website...someone will remember....
>
>>
>> We go around and around on this from time to time on this list, and 
>> nobody
>> yet has reached an agreement of what they really are nor been able to
>> document their original function either.

That might be Hope Greenberg's website: 
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/whiteband.html

She pretty much covers all of the predominant theories out there, but 
still comes up inconclusive.

Sarah
http://www.modehsitorique.com

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Never have I wanted 15 million dollars more :)


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historic Costume" <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Friday, March 19, 2004 5:35 AM
Subject: [h-cost] ebay castle


> Amazing what you find on ebay. I have some doubts about this one.
>
> De
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
http://cgi.msn.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2384980194&category=
>   >  > >
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ebay castle
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Brandy Deming" <queenscorner@verizon.net>
> Never have I wanted 15 million dollars more :)

I'd definitely want a lot of extra to spend to undo the 19th century
gothification. =} How frightening is it that there are alraedy 6 bids?

There's some nifty websites out there that list castles for sale, some of
which are well under a million--never noticed a barony coming with one,
though!

-E (just waiting for those 35 years until the husband and I retire rich to
Switzerland...)

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From: Lil Sorepaws <sorepaws@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Costume Con in Atlanta ...
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OMG I WISH .. but after 3 months of less than half pay at work but still
working FT, I can't afford much in the way of travelling for pleasure.  
Even to almost-local events.

Thankfully I HAVE found several super heavy duty vintage sewing machines
for like 10-25$ in good working order, so I will hopefully be making some
$$ at a few REALLY local events later on with leather goodies and bodices
;) I have a couple of dozen rennie (non historical - sorry ;) bodices cut
out and waiting for me to find time to make them.  I am currently
researching an italian/french renaissance portrait for making .. it will
be in some gorgeous fabrics .. as soon as I find the time to actually
measure twice and baste before sewing or cutting .. otherwise my skills
are not up to par for sewing silk without devoting serious patience and
time!

ANY suggestions for how to work with silk would be most welcome. ;)  

As for mundane wedding attending clothes, reply to me Offlist, Sue C., and
I'll see what I can do to help... I'm a packrat and a habitual reseller on
eBay so I always have something in my stash.  When and where is the wedding?
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Austalian Fashion Magazines
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also check out the State Library of NSW's catalogue, www.sl.nsw.gov.au, 
and chack what they hold in their collections as a guide. or the 
National Library, www.nla.gov.au. The state library may be better as 
New South Wales is older than Australia, as it were, and has records 
since the colony started.

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Subject: [h-cost] Sewing machines - any recommendations
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Greetings all,

Well I have finally come to the conclusion that hand sewing everything
is not a good idea so I am thinking of buying myself a new sewing
machine.  The only trouble is that I have no idea which one to get.  I
am after a machine that is happy sewing through at least four layers of
heavy fabric, goes backwards and forwards, and does an the ^^^^^ stitch
over the raw edges.  After that I don't care.  Can anyone recommend a
good make.  I'm in the UK but most places stock the more well known
brands such as singer and brother.

Thanks

Rachel

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Hi Rachel - I've read past discussions about this, and many people raved
about the Europro.  I believe they said that because it has a solid metal
core, it is able to handle thick fabrics.  I am thinking of getting one of
these myself some day.  Take Care, Julie

Rachel wrote:

> Greetings all,
>
> Well I have finally come to the conclusion that hand sewing everything
> is not a good idea so I am thinking of buying myself a new sewing
> machine.  The only trouble is that I have no idea which one to get.  I
> am after a machine that is happy sewing through at least four layers of
> heavy fabric, goes backwards and forwards, and does an the ^^^^^ stitch
> over the raw edges.  After that I don't care.  Can anyone recommend a
> good make.  I'm in the UK but most places stock the more well known
> brands such as singer and brother.
>
> Thanks
>
> Rachel
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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References: <000001c40de8$bd14fea0$d3837ed4@rachelp9qkqnpl>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sewing machines - any recommendations
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2004 17:47:32 -0500
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I have come to love my Pfaff "Jeans and Satin"  It does just that, and a
little more...My Beloved is/was Kenmore 1939. I like to have some control
over the design points of a project.  The Pfaff actually will sew over 4
layers of 'jean'.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rachel" <reholliday@lineone.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, March 19, 2004 2:31 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Sewing machines - any recommendations


>
> Greetings all,
>
> Well I have finally come to the conclusion that hand sewing everything
> is not a good idea so I am thinking of buying myself a new sewing
> machine.  The only trouble is that I have no idea which one to get.  I
> am after a machine that is happy sewing through at least four layers of
> heavy fabric, goes backwards and forwards, and does an the ^^^^^ stitch
> over the raw edges.  After that I don't care.  Can anyone recommend a
> good make.  I'm in the UK but most places stock the more well known
> brands such as singer and brother.
>
> Thanks
>
> Rachel
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Mar 19 17:54:06 2004
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From: "kim baird" <kbaird@cableone.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Sewing machines - any recommendations
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2004 16:51:40 -0600
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Rachel--

Most important advice--do NOT buy Singer. Oh, unless it's a VERY old,
black iron Singer.

If you could find a used Bernina 1090, 1080, 1230, 1260 or 1530, any of
those would be great.

Kim

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Rachel
Sent: Friday, March 19, 2004 1:31 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Sewing machines - any recommendations



Greetings all,

Well I have finally come to the conclusion that hand sewing everything
is not a good idea so I am thinking of buying myself a new sewing
machine.  The only trouble is that I have no idea which one to get.  I
am after a machine that is happy sewing through at least four layers of
heavy fabric, goes backwards and forwards, and does an the ^^^^^ stitch
over the raw edges.  After that I don't care.  Can anyone recommend a
good make.  I'm in the UK but most places stock the more well known
brands such as singer and brother.

Thanks

Rachel

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Mar 19 20:26:47 2004
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Subject: [h-cost] Costume Con 22
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I will also be in Atlanta...and like Karen/Seamstrix, I'm not sure 
about the Hogwart's Ball attire.   I have a couple of ideas, and 
fabric, but no time to do anything yet.  Maybe I'll just wear a 
bathrobe. :-}

So, as has been done in the past, do we need to make H-badges to add to 
our CC nametags?  I'd be happy to make some.  (That's a lot 
quicker/easier project than building a costume!) I'd really like to 
meet some more of you H-Costumers.

Allison P.

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I'm sold to Viking. I absolutely adore my new machine. But my mom had a
Pfaff that did a really really good job too. One thing to consider though:
Pfaff has just been bought out by Viking, so I'm not sure what that means
for after sale service.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, March 19, 2004 5:47 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sewing machines - any recommendations


> I have come to love my Pfaff "Jeans and Satin"  It does just that, and a
> little more...My Beloved is/was Kenmore 1939. I like to have some control
> over the design points of a project.  The Pfaff actually will sew over 4
> layers of 'jean'.
> Kathleen
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I will be there :)

Allison T.
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My super service center is also the pfaff Dealer of this area. He services
all machines; even OLD ones. I bought my new one because of the quality
service of his shop...it happened to be the Pfaff Dealership.
I recommend that what ever machine you decide on, that you deal with a
business that is not just Selling machines.  Heck, even the new ones
sometimes need a checkup. I"d prefer to place my business, even if it costs
a little more, with people who stand behind the product, and are not just
moving merchandise.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, March 19, 2004 8:36 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sewing machines - any recommendations


> I'm sold to Viking. I absolutely adore my new machine. But my mom had a
> Pfaff that did a really really good job too. One thing to consider though:
> Pfaff has just been bought out by Viking, so I'm not sure what that means
> for after sale service.
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Friday, March 19, 2004 5:47 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sewing machines - any recommendations
>
>
> > I have come to love my Pfaff "Jeans and Satin"  It does just that, and a
> > little more...My Beloved is/was Kenmore 1939. I like to have some
control
> > over the design points of a project.  The Pfaff actually will sew over 4
> > layers of 'jean'.
> > Kathleen
> _______________________________________________
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>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sewing machines - any recommendations
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On Fri, 19 Mar 2004 16:51:40 -0600 "kim baird" <kbaird@cableone.net>
writes:
> Rachel--
> 
> Most important advice--do NOT buy Singer. Oh, unless it's a VERY 
> old, black iron Singer.
> 
> If you could find a used Bernina 1090, 1080, 1230, 1260 or 1530, any 
> of those would be great.
> 
> Kim


        Why not a Singer?  I have a heavy duty Singer, the type that they
sell to high school home ec depts.  I have sewn leather, in varying
weights and multiple layers, I have sewn multiple layers of heavy denim,
I've sewn THICK furs... and I've been doing these sorts of things with
that machine for something like 6 or 7 years with the same machine.  I've
also sewn chiffon, satin, organza... I've sewn basically every type of
material... home dec fabrics included, without a problem.
        I've never had it in to service, though with several moves, the
last one makes me need to get it in, but I'm still using it.  It sews
like a trooper, has never let me down.  My biggest problem is the rare
occasion of rushing a job and I break the needle in my haste.  Other than
that, the machine has been great.  And I think I only paid something like
$175 for it, lock-stock-and-barrel to be delivered to my door.  Of
course, that's US price, but it's still a sweet price.

Astrid
Never argue with a dragon, for thou art crunchy and go well with Brie.
    http://www.geocities.com/tul_juriss - for links to ALL my current
sites
    http://www.geocities.com/astridofthehorde - costumes I've made
    http://www.geocities.com/house_qul_mupwi - The noble Klingon House
    http://www.geocities.com/klingon_pirates_guild - The Klingon Pirate's
Guild

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Subject: [h-cost] French ? tudor
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http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/refo/ho_29.100.197.htm

Anne de Pisseleu

De
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] black band
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This is a bit early but the portrait has a black neckband on her chemise.

http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/d/durer/1/02/index.html

Scroll down to 1497, Portrait of a Young Furleger w/her hair done up.

De

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Subject: [h-cost] Chemise question
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Came across these two 1499 pictures of Felicitas and Elsbeth Tucher.
The chemises seem to have some sort of gold band and what appaers to be
trapunto.
What is your opinions?

http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/d/durer/1/02/index/html

Scroll down to Felicitas Tucher and Elsbeth Tucher.

De

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For some reason the link doesn't want to work. It is the same link as the
one given for the black band portrait(which does work). Just need to scroll
a little further to find the two portraits.

De

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of otsisto
Sent: Saturday, March 20, 2004 3:01 AM
To: Historic Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Chemise question


Came across these two 1499 pictures of Felicitas and Elsbeth Tucher.
The chemises seem to have some sort of gold band and what appaers to be
trapunto.
What is your opinions?

http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/d/durer/1/02/index/html

Scroll down to Felicitas Tucher and Elsbeth Tucher.

De

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar 20 09:37:28 2004
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From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] black band
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Bad reproduction <g>.  What you can't really tell in this one is that 
the "black band" is actually a band of embroidery with letters worked 
into it an everything....
--sue

otsisto wrote:

> This is a bit early but the portrait has a black neckband on her chemise.
> 
> http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/d/durer/1/02/index.html
> 
> Scroll down to 1497, Portrait of a Young Furleger w/her hair done up.
> 
> De


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From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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Hey, haven't seen that one before.  It looks pretty, and simple.  The 
band of trim or embroidery around the upper arms strikes me as pretty 
unusual, though.  Has anyone seen others like that?
--sue, currently planted firmly in the 14th c, but bookmarking it for 
future garb projects

otsisto wrote:
> http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/refo/ho_29.100.197.htm
> 
> Anne de Pisseleu
> 
> De

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar 20 09:38:33 2004
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Umm....link didn't work for me.  Did you type it in correctly, or is it 
my computer? <g>
--sue

otsisto wrote:

> Came across these two 1499 pictures of Felicitas and Elsbeth Tucher.
> The chemises seem to have some sort of gold band and what appaers to be
> trapunto.
> What is your opinions?
> 
> http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/d/durer/1/02/index/html
> 
> Scroll down to Felicitas Tucher and Elsbeth Tucher.
> 
> De
> 
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar 20 10:37:49 2004
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Sewing machines - any recommendations 
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I just got a Brother, CS8150 computerized.  It is great and sews well.  I 
went to Brother's website and it looks like the closest one for the UK is the 
CS8120.  The discription is found here:  http://www.brother.co.uk/dsm/cs8120.html
Good luck.
Kelly
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Costume Con 22
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2004 19:15:19 -0600
> From: Allison <allison@aristotle.net>
> Subject: [h-cost] Costume Con 22
> To: h-costume@net.indra.com
> Message-ID: <0DD23EC7-7A0C-11D8-B1F7-000393D446D6@aristotle.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed
>
> I will also be in Atlanta...and like Karen/Seamstrix, I'm not sure
> about the Hogwart's Ball attire.   I have a couple of ideas, and
> fabric, but no time to do anything yet.  Maybe I'll just wear a
> bathrobe. :-}
>

Awww... no Umbridge? Pink fuzzy sweater and you're good to go :) Seriously -
I know you'll think of something, you are always inventive!

> So, as has been done in the past, do we need to make H-badges
> to add to
> our CC nametags?  I'd be happy to make some.  (That's a lot
> quicker/easier project than building a costume!) I'd really like to
> meet some more of you H-Costumers.

I thought that the Costume Con staff provided the red stamp last year - am I
remembering wrong?

I am thinking of getting "goat" stickers or something similar to indicate
membership in the Live Journal dress_diaries community though - any LJers
here?
>
> Allison P.

Allison T.

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What would the cording that ties the front of her gown been made of? And
how would it have been made?

Arlys

On Sat, 20 Mar 2004 07:40:03 -0700 Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
writes:
> Bad reproduction <g>.  What you can't really tell in this one is that 
> 
> the "black band" is actually a band of embroidery with letters 
> worked 
> into it an everything....
> --sue
> 
> otsisto wrote:
> 
> > This is a bit early but the portrait has a black neckband on her 
> chemise.
> > 
> > http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/d/durer/1/02/index.html
> > 
> > Scroll down to 1497, Portrait of a Young Furleger w/her hair done 
> up.
> > 
> > De
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 


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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Sewing machines - any recommendations
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2004 16:51:40 -0600
> From: "kim baird" <kbaird@cableone.net>
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Sewing machines - any recommendations
> To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <023101c40e04$bf4b07c0$0201a8c0@kimathlon>
> Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="us-ascii"
>
> Rachel--
>
> Most important advice--do NOT buy Singer. Oh, unless it's a VERY old,
> black iron Singer.
>

Really? What I was told was that any Singer prior to around 1970-75 is ok,
because Singer's didn't decline in quality until they sold most of their
patents to Merrit (sp?) in the '70s. I've worked with some 1960s-70s Singers
with few complaints, though I agree that the newer ones are as frail as
Fisher-Price toys!

> If you could find a used Bernina 1090, 1080, 1230, 1260 or
> 1530, any of
> those would be great.
>
> Kim

Allison T.

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From: "Helen  Pinto" <hpinto@mindspring.com>
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Arlys wrote:
What would the cording that ties the front of her gown been made of? And
how would it have been made?

A finger-looped braid was one of the most common laces for closing women's
dresses in the 15th c., most likely of silk.  (Linen or wool may also have
been used, but I have no reference for it.)  This technique produces a wide
range of cords and narrow tapes that are very strong.  Many different and
even complex patterns can be produced, depending on the number of loops and
colors used.  The best things about the technique are that it is quick and
easy to learn (the simple ones), the materials are cheap, and it requires no
equipment other than your fingers, a thread cutter, and a stationary object
to tie the ends to.
Here's a link to an instructions for several simple braids and a
bibliography.
http://www.stringpage.com/braid/fl/fingerloop.html
Enjoy,
                -Helen/Aidan


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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ebay castle
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I believe it's genuine.  Certainly it was reported on the BBC News site, 
and you can buy baronial titles in Scotland.  It doesn't get you 
anything except the right to use the name, though.

Jean


otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote
>Amazing what you find on ebay. I have some doubts about this one.
>
>De
>-----Original Message-----
>
>http://cgi.msn.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2384980194&category=
>  >  > >
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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ebay castle
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I believe it's genuine.  Certainly it was reported on the BBC News site, 
and you can buy baronial titles in Scotland.  It doesn't get you 
anything except the right to use the name, though.

Jean


otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote
>Amazing what you find on ebay. I have some doubts about this one.
>
>De
>-----Original Message-----
>
>http://cgi.msn.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2384980194&category=
>  >  > >
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Allison T. wrote:

> Awww... no Umbridge? Pink fuzzy sweater and you're good to go :) 
> Seriously -
> I know you'll think of something, you are always inventive!

As a matter of fact, I have a great Umbridge outfit thought up, but 1) 
I wanted to be practical and use fabric I might actually use later - 
like for the lining of a nice cape for Faire wear, and 2) I'm sort of 
burned out on pink...<ggg>.

>
>> So, as has been done in the past, do we need to make H-badges
>> to add to
>> our CC nametags?  I'd be happy to make some.  (That's a lot
>> quicker/easier project than building a costume!) I'd really like to
>> meet some more of you H-Costumers.
>
> I thought that the Costume Con staff provided the red stamp last year 
> - am I
> remembering wrong?
>
I heard someone at the registration desk last year say they remembered 
to grab a stamp on the way out the door, so it was just our good luck 
that we got them.  I'm thinking I'll make separate little letters.  An 
H for this list and an M for Margo's, and we can tape or staple them to 
our Con badges.

Allison P

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Subject: [h-cost] Carpal tunnel and/or arthritis
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Any other sewers/handcrafters out there have any advice for this aging 
baby boomer?  Every time I hand sew I get terrible numbness and 
tingling in my fingers, and pain in my forearms.  And my right thumb 
joint is giving me trouble, with what I know is early osteoarthritis. 
My hands are beginning to look like my mother's did as she got older.

It's gotten bad enough that I sew by hand for about 15 minutes, then 
put it down for several hours, which means I'll have trouble finishing 
the project in time.  (I'm doing heavy duty hand sewing - putting in 
bound buttonholes on a bodice.)

Any recommendations on what helps this?  Do I really need to see a 
doctor who will probably just tell me to stop using my hands (yeah, 
right !!!!), or at least wear a wrist brace/wrap and take Tylenol?  I 
already do these things.

Thanks, guys!

Allison P

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar 20 16:23:21 2004
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Carpal tunnel and/or arthritis
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>Any recommendations on what helps this?

Set longer lead times for finishing stuff.  When it hurts, stop.

>Do I really need to see a doctor who will probably just tell me to stop 
>using my hands (yeah, right !!!!), or at least wear a wrist brace/wrap and 
>take Tylenol?  I already do these things.

Go to a doctor recommended by someone who has gotten over wrist 
tendonitis.  Sports medicine doctors are good for this, because they expect 
the athletes to get over their injuries, and go back to doing what gave it 
to them in the first place but knowing how to 'play' safer next time.

Advil not Tylenol, or at least ibuprophin instead of acetomenaphin.  My 
doctor recommended a muscle relaxer, not a pain killer.  You need the pain 
to tell you when it's time to stop.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
             ////-@@\\\
            ((((   7 )))
             (((  <> ))))
                )   ((((((
           /----\   /---\))

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i oopsed lets try this again.
> 
> http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/d/durer/1/02/index.html
> 
> Scroll down to Felicitas Tucher and Elsbeth Tucher.
> 
> De
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> 

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Every time I go to that page and look at those instructions I cringe.  It is
a good thing that I don't have to make my living manipulating things like
this with my hands.

Regina


> A finger-looped braid was one of the most common laces for closing women's
> dresses in the 15th c., most likely of silk.  (Linen or wool may also have
> been used, but I have no reference for it.)  This technique
> produces a wide
> range of cords and narrow tapes that are very strong.  Many different and
> even complex patterns can be produced, depending on the number of
> loops and
> colors used.  The best things about the technique are that it is quick and
> easy to learn (the simple ones), the materials are cheap, and it
> requires no
> equipment other than your fingers, a thread cutter, and a
> stationary object
> to tie the ends to.
> Here's a link to an instructions for several simple braids and a
> bibliography.
> http://www.stringpage.com/braid/fl/fingerloop.html
> Enjoy,
>


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May I suggest to go talk to your doctor.  There are several prescription
drugs that work much better than Tylenol.  Generally drugs such as Alaive or
Morton would work better that is what they are made for.  Debbie
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Allison" <allison@aristotle.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 20, 2004 1:05 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Carpal tunnel and/or arthritis


> Any other sewers/handcrafters out there have any advice for this aging
> baby boomer?  Every time I hand sew I get terrible numbness and
> tingling in my fingers, and pain in my forearms.  And my right thumb
> joint is giving me trouble, with what I know is early osteoarthritis.
> My hands are beginning to look like my mother's did as she got older.
>
> It's gotten bad enough that I sew by hand for about 15 minutes, then
> put it down for several hours, which means I'll have trouble finishing
> the project in time.  (I'm doing heavy duty hand sewing - putting in
> bound buttonholes on a bodice.)
>
> Any recommendations on what helps this?  Do I really need to see a
> doctor who will probably just tell me to stop using my hands (yeah,
> right !!!!), or at least wear a wrist brace/wrap and take Tylenol?  I
> already do these things.
>
> Thanks, guys!
>
> Allison P
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Carpal tunnel and/or arthritis
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 13:54:46 -0800
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Allison,

	I feel your pain, or at least I have felt it although mine was in my feet,
particularly my left one.  I know what you mean about osteo-arthritis and
hands though because that's how my mother's were by the time she was in her
fifties - she could still use them, but they hurt.
	The advice about seeing a doctor is good.  My experience was that my doctor
told me it was just part of getting old (grrr).  He suggested more aspirin
for the inflammation (not Tylenol, Aspirin).  Since Aspirin doesn't bother
me particularly and Ibuprophen does this worked, but not well.  Finally
Mistress Arlys O'Gordon from this list told me her secret.
  I found that a regime of 2 capsules Glucosamine, morning, noon, and
evening every day for two weeks almost completely eliminated the swelling
and pain I was having.  After those two weeks I cut down to one capsule,
three times a day, and finally to just two in the mornings.  When the
original flare up happened I had to wear bedroom slippers to work because I
could hardly walk.  All heeled shoes went to GoodWill and I discovered the
beauty of "old lady" shoes like my mothers :-)  Later, I put my mother on
the same regime and _her_ doctor said that if she had started 30 years
sooner (she was 80), it might have kept her from getting to that point at
all.  It did mean that the last years of her life were far more pain free
than she had expected and she could take up knitting for one more round of
bedroom slippers :-).
	At any rate, I still take one Glucosamine (I haven't found and difference
personally when I combine it with Condroitin, but that may just be me!)
every morning. I also take Lecithin, and Vitamin E.  For some reason I feel
less "achy" in the mornings when I've been careful to take them. My foot
pain and stiffness has completely gone.  I can actually stand on tip toe if
I need to.
	My hands had begun to do what you say yours are now, and it never developed
any further.
Regina Romsey


> Any recommendations on what helps this?  Do I really need to see a
> doctor who will probably just tell me to stop using my hands (yeah,
> right !!!!), or at least wear a wrist brace/wrap and take Tylenol?  I
> already do these things.
>
> Thanks, guys!
>
> Allison P
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Carpal tunnel and/or arthritis
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On Sat, 20 Mar 2004 15:05:01 -0600 Allison <allison@aristotle.net>
writes:
> Any other sewers/handcrafters out there have any advice for this 
> aging baby boomer?  Every time I hand sew I get terrible numbness and 
> tingling in my fingers, and pain in my forearms.  And my right thumb 
>  joint is giving me trouble, with what I know is early 
> osteoarthritis. 
> My hands are beginning to look like my mother's did as she got 
> older.
> 
> It's gotten bad enough that I sew by hand for about 15 minutes, then 
>  put it down for several hours, which means I'll have trouble 
> finishing the project in time.  (I'm doing heavy duty hand sewing -
putting in 
> bound buttonholes on a bodice.)
> 
> Any recommendations on what helps this?  Do I really need to see a 
> doctor who will probably just tell me to stop using my hands (yeah, 
> right !!!!), or at least wear a wrist brace/wrap and take Tylenol?  
> I already do these things.
> 
> Thanks, guys!
> 
> Allison P

Hi Allison! I have acute rheumatoid arthtritis and have had for over 20
years. I don't sew, but do embroider and do bargello. Things I've found
that help:

If you can put your work in a standing frame, do it. Minimize the stress
on your joints all around.

teach yourself to be an ambidextrous seamstress, if you aren't already.
Let one hand take the front of the work and the other hand the back.

Keep your needles Very,Very Sharp.

Every ten minutes or so, put your work down, raise your hand above your
head and make and unmake a fist about ten times. Repeat for the other
hand. It's very refreshing.

Try a soft hand and wrist brace --they make the half-fingered kind to
protect your thumb--I've got a pair, and they're great. Won't get in the
way at all. Or try a seamstress' half-glove. The brace would probably be
better for your thumb and wrist though.

Tylenol Arthritis works better than regular Tylenol. It's designed to be
instant-acting, AND last for the next 8 hrs. (Drink LOTS of water.)

I can't tolerate aspirin or Advil or naprosyn (stuff gives me violent
headaches and tummy upset). I take Tylenol and Vioxx (25mg daily). Works
great. Glucosamene is lovely stuff, and no side effects.

Topical arthritis creams can also help. It sounds to me more like setting
your work in a standing or quilter's frame would be your best bet
though--your problem screams of overstressed joints.

Good luck!

Arlys

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Subject: [h-cost] Was black band, no fingerlooping
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Regina wrote:
> Every time I go to that page and look at those instructions I cringe.  It
is
> a good thing that I don't have to make my living manipulating things like
> this with my hands.


I have to tell you that it's easier than it looks from those instructions.
I just found Rhiannon's CA (#108) on the web:
                     http://fingerloop.org/
I think you'll do much better with these, but if you get a chance to take a
class from her or another teacher, go for it, because it's even easier to
learn in person.
I have carpal tunnel (from C&I), and it's one of the things I do now that
doesn't make my hands hurt, because you actually use all your fingers, not
hold them in a cramped position (like hand-sewing).  Every time you
manipulate a loop, all of your fingers have to flex.  It's very good
exercise.  And most braids can be done
in less than one hour, so it's not taxing, especially if you sit well (no
hunching).  As a matter of fact your arms and pecs get a workout, too.
Really, try it.
                          -Helen/Aidan



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Carpal tunnel and/or arthritis
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If I knew I was going to live this long, I would have taken better care of
myself...
I used to avoid hand-sewing because it was boring, now I avoid it because it
hurts and my fingers get numb.  I cannot take my old friends aspirin and
ibuprofen anymore (at least until I stop taking rat poison), so I have had
to find other ways to cope.
I found two ways:  stopping when the tingling starts and applying heat when
it hurts.  Limit your time at a single activity, and go on to something
else.  Carpal tunnel comes from repition; if you vary the movement, you'll
be better off.  As for the heat, invest in a parafin bath.  They have really
come down in price, and you should have no trouble finding one in a drug or
department store for about $35.  Old-fashioned heating pads work; so does a
bowl of hot water.  Just be careful not to let it get too hot- shower
temperature should do it.
You might also consider seeing an occupational therapist, since they
specialize in teaching you new ways to perform a task to avoid damaging
yourself.
Good luck,
                 -Helen/Aidan


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>I found two ways:  stopping when the tingling starts and applying heat when
>it hurts.

My doctor recommended ice for swelling, instead of heat.  Check with your 
doctor on this point.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Carpal tunnel and/or arthritis
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Allison wrote:

>  
> Any recommendations on what helps this?  Do I really need to see a 
> doctor who will probably just tell me to stop using my hands (yeah, 
> right !!!!), or at least wear a wrist brace/wrap and take Tylenol?  I 
> already do these things.

There are some amazing new drugs out there for arthritis. It may be 
worth your time to see a specialist and get treatment. At the least you 
might look into taking one of the NSAIDs like ibuprofen, which is more 
suited to dealing with inflammation than asprin or the drug in Tylenol.

It sounds to me like you've got your hands to what I call "messed up" 
due to overuse. When my tenosynovitis bothers me or my RA kicks in about 
the only thing I can do is stop. When it gets better I resume the sewing 
projects. Especially with the tenosynovitis, because if it's hurting me 
it means I've damaged something, it's not just pain like the RA is. But 
it tends to take about 3 weeks for my hands and wrists to heal if they 
are "messed up".

I try to avoid hand work, but if I do it I limit myself to one hour 
sessions. Or maybe 40 minutes, or a certain length or amount of work. 
It's very easy to keep pushing and strain my hands, but I keep telling 
myself I want to be able to sew when I am 90, even if it means quitting 
*right now* and going and doing something else for the rest of the day.



Dawn



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Carpal tunnel and/or arthritis
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>It sounds to me like you've got your hands to what I call "messed up" due 
>to overuse. When my tenosynovitis bothers me or my RA kicks in about the 
>only thing I can do is stop. When it gets better I resume the sewing 
>projects. Especially with the tenosynovitis, because if it's hurting me it 
>means I've damaged something, it's not just pain like the RA is. But it 
>tends to take about 3 weeks for my hands and wrists to heal if they are 
>"messed up".
>
>I try to avoid hand work, but if I do it I limit myself to one hour 
>sessions. Or maybe 40 minutes, or a certain length or amount of work. It's 
>very easy to keep pushing and strain my hands, but I keep telling myself I 
>want to be able to sew when I am 90, even if it means quitting *right now* 
>and going and doing something else for the rest of the day.

Make your costuming projects modular.  Do the wrist-intensive stuff for a 
while, and when you have to stop do some other stuff that isn't so 
wrist-intensive.  Assuming, of course, that this is possible.  Otherwise 
you will just have to stretch out the time it takes you to finish a costume.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 18:09:12 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Carpal tunnel and/or arthritis
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At 3:05 PM -0600 3/20/04, Allison wrote:
>Any other sewers/handcrafters out there have any advice for this 
>aging baby boomer?  Every time I hand sew I get terrible numbness 
>and tingling in my fingers, and pain in my forearms.  And my right 
>thumb joint is giving me trouble, with what I know is early 
>osteoarthritis. My hands are beginning to look like my mother's did 
>as she got older.
>
>It's gotten bad enough that I sew by hand for about 15 minutes, then 
>put it down for several hours, which means I'll have trouble 
>finishing the project in time.  (I'm doing heavy duty hand sewing - 
>putting in bound buttonholes on a bodice.)
>
>Any recommendations on what helps this?  Do I really need to see a 
>doctor who will probably just tell me to stop using my hands (yeah, 
>right !!!!), or at least wear a wrist brace/wrap and take Tylenol? 
>I already do these things.

While it's no sure cure, you should probably take a good look at 
larger posture issues, not just what you do with your hands.  For 
example, the thing that most commonly causes tingling and numbness in 
my fingers has to do with postures and actions that put pressure on 
the nerves coming off my spine -- not things I'm doing with my hands 
themselves.  Take a look at how you're sitting, how you're holding 
your shoulders and your head, whether you're resting your arms on any 
surfaces as you work.  For example, are you craning your head forward 
and bending your neck a lot?  (The nerves for your hands come 
partially off your neck vertebrae, so bad neck posture can affect 
them.)  Are you rounding your shoulders or keeping them pulled back? 
Do you habitually tend to have muscle knots in your shoulders and 
neck?  Do you tend to rest your forearms against a chair armrest 
while working?  (Bad idea.)

Then there are the issues having to do with how you hold your hands 
themselves as you work, but those tend to be more directly 
identifiable.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Carpal tunnel and/or arthritis
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Do see a rheumatologist and get the right diagnosis re athritis or PMR, or
whatever.  There are tests at this point, the results of which can be
specific for dealing with discomfort or disability. As my sister the nurse
says, "Listen to your body".  We have a sort of joke that says" when you get
up in the morning, see what is working, and plan your day." At this point,
my worst pain comes in the middle of the night.  I use topical pain reliever
like "aspercream" and wear space gloves to bed when the inflammation is
active.  That seems to help somewhat in getting through a normal 'sewing
day.'  I started taking Glucosimine with condratin(sp?) about 2 years ago,
and that is helping the sore joints, overall.
My grandmother's and my mother's hands were gnarled in their later years,
but they continued making beautiful things with their hands to near the end
of their earthly time. Should I expect more?
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Allison" <allison@aristotle.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 20, 2004 4:05 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Carpal tunnel and/or arthritis


> Any other sewers/handcrafters out there have any advice for this aging
> baby boomer?  Every time I hand sew I get terrible numbness and
> tingling in my fingers, and pain in my forearms.  And my right thumb
> joint is giving me trouble, with what I know is early osteoarthritis.
> My hands are beginning to look like my mother's did as she got older.
>
> It's gotten bad enough that I sew by hand for about 15 minutes, then
> put it down for several hours, which means I'll have trouble finishing
> the project in time.  (I'm doing heavy duty hand sewing - putting in
> bound buttonholes on a bodice.)
>
> Any recommendations on what helps this?  Do I really need to see a
> doctor who will probably just tell me to stop using my hands (yeah,
> right !!!!), or at least wear a wrist brace/wrap and take Tylenol?  I
> already do these things.
>
> Thanks, guys!
>
> Allison P
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>


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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <HGEEKKPFPKOJBDPGKLOCEEIFIGAA.wandap@hevanet.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Carpal tunnel and/or arthritis
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 22:17:25 -0500
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The condroitin is recommended for the body's ability absorb the glucosimine.
With a heavy intake of any of the anti inflammatory medications, be sure and
get your liver enzymes checked on a regular basis.  All part of the regimen
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 20, 2004 4:54 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Carpal tunnel and/or arthritis


> Allison,
>
> I feel your pain, or at least I have felt it although mine was in my feet,
> particularly my left one.  I know what you mean about osteo-arthritis and
> hands though because that's how my mother's were by the time she was in
her
> fifties - she could still use them, but they hurt.
> The advice about seeing a doctor is good.  My experience was that my
doctor
> told me it was just part of getting old (grrr).  He suggested more aspirin
> for the inflammation (not Tylenol, Aspirin).  Since Aspirin doesn't bother
> me particularly and Ibuprophen does this worked, but not well.  Finally
> Mistress Arlys O'Gordon from this list told me her secret.
>   I found that a regime of 2 capsules Glucosamine, morning, noon, and
> evening every day for two weeks almost completely eliminated the swelling
> and pain I was having.  After those two weeks I cut down to one capsule,
> three times a day, and finally to just two in the mornings.  When the
> original flare up happened I had to wear bedroom slippers to work because
I
> could hardly walk.  All heeled shoes went to GoodWill and I discovered the
> beauty of "old lady" shoes like my mothers :-)  Later, I put my mother on
> the same regime and _her_ doctor said that if she had started 30 years
> sooner (she was 80), it might have kept her from getting to that point at
> all.  It did mean that the last years of her life were far more pain free
> than she had expected and she could take up knitting for one more round of
> bedroom slippers :-).
> At any rate, I still take one Glucosamine (I haven't found and difference
> personally when I combine it with Condroitin, but that may just be me!)
> every morning. I also take Lecithin, and Vitamin E.  For some reason I
feel
> less "achy" in the mornings when I've been careful to take them. My foot
> pain and stiffness has completely gone.  I can actually stand on tip toe
if
> I need to.
> My hands had begun to do what you say yours are now, and it never
developed
> any further.
> Regina Romsey
>
>
> > Any recommendations on what helps this?  Do I really need to see a
> > doctor who will probably just tell me to stop using my hands (yeah,
> > right !!!!), or at least wear a wrist brace/wrap and take Tylenol?  I
> > already do these things.
> >
> > Thanks, guys!
> >
> > Allison P
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Carpal tunnel and/or arthritis
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Cynthia, you have given some great hints. I especially like the ambidextrous
suggestion. After foot surgery, that was a timely lesson indeed!
Another one, use the tools of your kit, and not fingers, teeth toes or such.
Scissors, screwdeivers, pliers and such are more than implements of refined
craft.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cynthia J Ley" <cley@juno.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 20, 2004 5:35 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Carpal tunnel and/or arthritis


> On Sat, 20 Mar 2004 15:05:01 -0600 Allison <allison@aristotle.net>
> writes:
> > Any other sewers/handcrafters out there have any advice for this
> > aging baby boomer?  Every time I hand sew I get terrible numbness and
> > tingling in my fingers, and pain in my forearms.  And my right thumb
> >  joint is giving me trouble, with what I know is early
> > osteoarthritis.
> > My hands are beginning to look like my mother's did as she got
> > older.
> >
> > It's gotten bad enough that I sew by hand for about 15 minutes, then
> >  put it down for several hours, which means I'll have trouble
> > finishing the project in time.  (I'm doing heavy duty hand sewing -
> putting in
> > bound buttonholes on a bodice.)
> >
> > Any recommendations on what helps this?  Do I really need to see a
> > doctor who will probably just tell me to stop using my hands (yeah,
> > right !!!!), or at least wear a wrist brace/wrap and take Tylenol?
> > I already do these things.
> >
> > Thanks, guys!
> >
> > Allison P
>
> Hi Allison! I have acute rheumatoid arthtritis and have had for over 20
> years. I don't sew, but do embroider and do bargello. Things I've found
> that help:
>
> If you can put your work in a standing frame, do it. Minimize the stress
> on your joints all around.
>
> teach yourself to be an ambidextrous seamstress, if you aren't already.
> Let one hand take the front of the work and the other hand the back.
>
> Keep your needles Very,Very Sharp.
>
> Every ten minutes or so, put your work down, raise your hand above your
> head and make and unmake a fist about ten times. Repeat for the other
> hand. It's very refreshing.
>
> Try a soft hand and wrist brace --they make the half-fingered kind to
> protect your thumb--I've got a pair, and they're great. Won't get in the
> way at all. Or try a seamstress' half-glove. The brace would probably be
> better for your thumb and wrist though.
>
> Tylenol Arthritis works better than regular Tylenol. It's designed to be
> instant-acting, AND last for the next 8 hrs. (Drink LOTS of water.)
>
> I can't tolerate aspirin or Advil or naprosyn (stuff gives me violent
> headaches and tummy upset). I take Tylenol and Vioxx (25mg daily). Works
> great. Glucosamene is lovely stuff, and no side effects.
>
> Topical arthritis creams can also help. It sounds to me more like setting
> your work in a standing or quilter's frame would be your best bet
> though--your problem screams of overstressed joints.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Arlys
>
> ________________________________________________________________
> The best thing to hit the Internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
> Surf the Web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
> Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!
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>


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Wow!  This group is great.  Thanks, everyone, for the great feedback on 
my hand problems!  There were a couple of things I hadn't thought of or 
done yet.  This aging process isn't much fun, is it?  The phrase "youth 
is wasted on the young" has a much greater meaning to me now...

Allison P

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Carpal tunnel and/or arthritis
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>This aging process isn't much fun, is it?

Yeah, but it beats the alternative...


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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>
> >I found two ways:  stopping when the tingling starts and applying heat
when
> >it hurts.
>
> My doctor recommended ice for swelling, instead of heat.  Check with your
> doctor on this point.
>
>

Depends on the injury, use heat to loosen the muscles, cold to bring down
the swelling. When my husband had broken both of his legs in an accident,
while in physio had been told to alternate between the two before and after
his sessions. It speeds up the healing time.

I find the heat works great to get the circulation going, and if there is
still swelling after that, I ice it. (bum knee) Seems to work for me. :-)

Sheridan


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> > >I found two ways:  stopping when the tingling starts and applying heat
>when
> > >it hurts.
> >
> > My doctor recommended ice for swelling, instead of heat.  Check with your
> > doctor on this point.
> >
> >
>
>Depends on the injury, use heat to loosen the muscles, cold to bring down
>the swelling. When my husband had broken both of his legs in an accident,
>while in physio had been told to alternate between the two before and after
>his sessions. It speeds up the healing time.
>
>I find the heat works great to get the circulation going, and if there is
>still swelling after that, I ice it. (bum knee) Seems to work for me. :-)

My doctor said if I needed to ice my wrists if I was away from home, I 
should go to a fast food place and buy a soda with lots of ice in it.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
             ////-@@\\\
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             (((  <> ))))
                )   ((((((
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Subject: [h-cost] Kenmore 1750
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I bought a Kenmore 1750 in a cabinet at a yard sale for $60.00. It has 
all metal parts, the complete instructional book, and all the cams 
including the buttonhole cams except for one; a zigzag stitch. I have 
two questions. Who made the Kenmore and where can I get the missing cam?

LD

 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kenmore 1750
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Contact Sears . Use the toll free number and ask for 'Parts". If you know
which cam it is (parts number) they might be able to supply it. Another
resource is a sewing/ vacuum parts set up at a Fles Market.  Sometimes these
people specialize in old parts.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "General" <general@demaslaw.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2004 1:39 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Kenmore 1750


> I bought a Kenmore 1750 in a cabinet at a yard sale for $60.00. It has
> all metal parts, the complete instructional book, and all the cams
> including the buttonhole cams except for one; a zigzag stitch. I have
> two questions. Who made the Kenmore and where can I get the missing cam?
>
> LD
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>


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General wrote:

> I bought a Kenmore 1750 in a cabinet at a yard sale for $60.00. It has 
> all metal parts, the complete instructional book, and all the cams 
> including the buttonhole cams except for one; a zigzag stitch. I have 
> two questions. Who made the Kenmore and where can I get the missing cam?

My mother's Kenmore used the same cam for the zigzag as for the 
straight; the only difference was you set the width up from 0 for the 
zigzag.  You might want to give that a try.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

We belong to the "What Does This Button Do?" school of decision making. 
-- Kaja Foglio
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kenmore 1750
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I just went up and looked at my Kenmore, it is model 158.xxxxx. (Pale green in 
color, metal head, purchased 30 +/- years ago when it was the top of the line 
model).
To do a simple zigzag you adjust the dials on the front for zigzag, no cam 
needed. There are several decorative stitches that use the zigzag stitches 
that do use cams.

Wendy
 Quoting Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue+dated+1095423109.b8ce16@thibault.org>:

> General wrote:
> 
> > I bought a Kenmore 1750 in a cabinet at a yard sale for $60.00. It has 
> > all metal parts, the complete instructional book, and all the cams 
> > including the buttonhole cams except for one; a zigzag stitch. I have 
> > two questions. Who made the Kenmore and where can I get the missing cam?
> 
> My mother's Kenmore used the same cam for the zigzag as for the 
> straight; the only difference was you set the width up from 0 for the 
> zigzag.  You might want to give that a try.
> 
> -- 
> Cynthia Virtue and/or
> Cynthia du Pré Argent
> 
> We belong to the "What Does This Button Do?" school of decision making. 
> -- Kaja Foglio
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 



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From: "Megan M." <megan@benchite.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Kenmore 1750
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2004 11:20:59 -0500
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Ask on the vintagekenmoresew list on yahoo.  Somebody there may have the cam
you need.
-Megan

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Cynthia Virtue
Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2004 7:12 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kenmore 1750


General wrote:

> I bought a Kenmore 1750 in a cabinet at a yard sale for $60.00. It has
> all metal parts, the complete instructional book, and all the cams
> including the buttonhole cams except for one; a zigzag stitch. I have
> two questions. Who made the Kenmore and where can I get the missing cam?

My mother's Kenmore used the same cam for the zigzag as for the
straight; the only difference was you set the width up from 0 for the
zigzag.  You might want to give that a try.

--
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

We belong to the "What Does This Button Do?" school of decision making.
-- Kaja Foglio
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Mar 21 11:48:40 2004
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	Sun, 21 Mar 2004 08:41:13 PST
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2004 08:41:13 -0800 (PST)
From: Aurelia Rufinia <aureliarufinia@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Carpal tunnel and/or arthritis
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Formine, my physical therpist recommended using
something like icy-hot (cryogenic therepy, I think
they called it) massaged into my worst and forearm at
times (I use a CVS genenric, it helps, especially the
massaging part.).  She also reccomended "immersion
therepy" filling on half of the sink with water as
warm as I could stand, and the other as cold as I
couls stand, and holding my hand in the cold for
thirty seconds, and then in the warm for...  ten?  I
don't remember, I'm sorry ( don't have a split sink
anymore, so this doesn't happen as much as it should.)
 It helps.  

AUrelia, who has had wrint problems since she was 14.

=====
Baroness Aurelia Rufinia
House Iron Maiden, Barony of Carolingia, 
East Kingdom, Northshield Ex-Pat

"In fact, if you put 'oy' and 'poodle' together, in the same sentence, you'd have a great new catchphrase, you know? Like, 'Oy with the poodles already.'"

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Subject: [h-cost] Charles II on TV tonight
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This is a bit OT, but has anyone seen the 4-hour film
on Charles II that's on US TV tonight?
Specifically, i'm hoping there are some good scenes
set in London playhouses--does anyone know if there are?

=====
Art is not a mirror held up to reality but a hammer with which to shape it.   Bertolt Brecht

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> >This aging process isn't much fun, is it?
> 
> Yeah, but it beats the alternative...

I want *more* alternatives!

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Amen, sister!!!!


>
>>> This aging process isn't much fun, is it?
>>
>> Yeah, but it beats the alternative...
>
> I want *more* alternatives!
>
> Kat
> <kat@redtrollforge.com>

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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Shane & Sheridan" <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2004 12:30 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Carpal tunnel and/or arthritis


>
>
>
> >
> > >I found two ways:  stopping when the tingling starts and applying heat
> when
> > >it hurts.
> >
> > My doctor recommended ice for swelling, instead of heat.  Check with
your
> > doctor on this point.
> >

Thanks, you are correct about the swelling, but that's not an issue for me
yet, just the pain and the numbness.  But most times I manage to head it off
by pacing myself and varying my activities.  As long as I avoid keeping my
hands in one tight position, I manage really well.
            -Helen/Aidan


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From: "Glenda Robinson" <glendar@compassnet.com.au>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Carpal tunnel and/or arthritis
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 10:19:33 +1100
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Hi Allison,

Like others,  from family experience I can recommend Glucosamine for your
problem. My father has severe cartilage wearing problems in his back,
between a whole string of vertebrae (the bones were actually rubbing on each
other - ouch!), and in one finger, after a tendon snap and replacement 40
years ago affected the movement of his index, so the middle finger has been
used as both for all these years. He also had arthritis in his other
fingers, and shoulder problems. Recommended dosages as per the glucosamine
box have worked wonders, and after a few weeks he is no longer in constant
severe pain, and has been in fair condition for the six months since he
started these. He had previously tried Evening Primrose oil, with some
affect, and I think Shark Cartilage, but this seems to be a 'wonder drug'
for him.

My husband has had arthritis in his fingers for years, and he's only 40. He
also has archer's back (partially fused vertebrae), and a tendon problem in
his elbow after a sword blow bounced off his segmentata and went right into
the 'funny bone' part of the elbow. This was affecting his feeling in his
hands, as well as the years of archery causing huge clicks in his elbow when
he straightened it fully. All these have been fine since a he started on the
glucosamine tablets. He has an allergy to fish, but his particular allergy
isn't being worried by this extract, though others mileage may vary. He's
been on them since Christmas, and will stay on them, as it should stop any
further degeneration. He loves to make varying things from wood, leather,
pewter, leather etc for reenactment and if he has time, paints model trains
and miniature figurines, so he is really happy that the arthritis won't
progress so rapidly now, because he would be lost without his hobbies.

Hope it works for you!

Glenda.


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kenmore 1750
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Thanks for the advice on the Kenmore 1750.

>  
>


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Mar 21 20:08:32 2004
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2004 20:06:03 -0500
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Subject: [h-cost] Hollywood Costume sell
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Status: RO

I don't know if this whole url will work, but here are some great Hollywood costumes on auction at eBay:
http://search.liveauctions.ebay.com/search/search.dll?GetResult&ht=11&ctlgid=5712&ahid=1457&lc=1&isl=0&ccn=Entertainment

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Mar 21 21:58:23 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hollywood Costume sell
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What fabulous stuff! Completelyout of my price range but fun to look at.

Nora
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2004 7:06 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Hollywood Costume sell


I don't know if this whole url will work, but here are some great Hollywood
costumes on auction at eBay:
http://search.liveauctions.ebay.com/search/search.dll?GetResult&ht=11&ctlgid=5712&ahid=1457&lc=1&isl=0&ccn=Entertainment

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
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My husband was drooling over the John Wayne items.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com

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CarolynKayta wrote:
>
> My doctor said if I needed to ice my wrists if I was away from home, I
> should go to a fast food place and buy a soda with lots of ice in it.
>

One of the best, cheapest, re-usable ice packs is a bag of frozen peas.
(These are *never* to be eaten.)  You keep them in the freezer, and pull
them out when you need them.  Bang them down on the countertop to loosen the
peas, if they've formed a block, and then wrap them in a towel and apply to
whatever needs icing.  It's not just for swelling- it works for burns as
well.  When the peas start to get soft, put them back in the freezer.  No
kitchen should be without them.
                   -Helen/Aidan


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Carpal tunnel and/or arthritis
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On Sat, 20 Mar 2004 18:09:12 -0800 Heather Rose Jones
<hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu> writes:
> While it's no sure cure, you should probably take a good look at 
> larger posture issues, not just what you do with your hands.  For 
> example, the thing that most commonly causes tingling and numbness 
> in my fingers has to do with postures and actions that put pressure on 
> the nerves coming off my spine -- not things I'm doing with my hands 
> themselves.  Take a look at how you're sitting, how you're holding 
> your shoulders and your head, whether you're resting your arms on 
> any surfaces as you work.  For example, are you craning your head 
> forward and bending your neck a lot?  (The nerves for your hands come 
> partially off your neck vertebrae, so bad neck posture can affect 
> them.)  Are you rounding your shoulders or keeping them pulled back? 
> 
> Do you habitually tend to have muscle knots in your shoulders and 
> neck?  Do you tend to rest your forearms against a chair armrest 
> ile working?  (Bad idea.)
> 
> Then there are the issues having to do with how you hold your hands 
> themselves as you work, but those tend to be more directly 
> identifiable.
> 
> Heather


        Heather, you are very correct.  I've actually had a problem,
fairly long standing, with particular fingers going numb, and alot of
times for no real apparent reason.  I tend to be very relaxed when I
drive on open highway, but that's when I seem to get it the most and the
worst.  A chiropractor told me that what I should do is massage the nerve
bundle in the pit of my arm.  My left is worse than my right, but it
actually worked.  Along with somewhat regular chiropractic visits, I try
to keep my back in alignment and find that also helps keep the numbness
down.  (I'll recommend a chiropractor over a doctor any day! And I'll go
to one before I go to a regular doctor as well.)

Astrid
Never argue with a dragon, for thou art crunchy and go well with Brie.
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    http://www.geocities.com/klingon_pirates_guild - The Klingon Pirate's
Guild

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Charles II on TV tonight
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> This is a bit OT, but has anyone seen the 4-hour film
> on Charles II that's on US TV tonight?

My TiVo grabbed it and I'll watch it sometime this week. If there are any
playhouses, I'll be sure to let you know.


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Subject: [h-cost] fingerloop braiding: black band
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My problem is that my fingers wouldn't be able to stand the stress. I do
have a lucet though--may give that a try.

Arlys

On Sat, 20 Mar 2004 13:33:41 -0800 "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
writes:
> Every time I go to that page and look at those instructions I cringe. 
>  It is a good thing that I don't have to make my living manipulating
things 
> like this with my hands.
> 
> Regina
> 
> 
> > A finger-looped braid was one of the most common laces for closing 
> women's
> > dresses in the 15th c., most likely of silk.  


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] French ? tudor
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http://www.geocities.com/ailithmac/portraits.html

Look at the Potrait of Eleonora in the pink/rose
dress.




 --- Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote: > Hey,
haven't seen that one before.  It looks pretty,
> and simple.  The 
> band of trim or embroidery around the upper arms
> strikes me as pretty 
> unusual, though.  Has anyone seen others like that?
> --sue, currently planted firmly in the 14th c, but
> bookmarking it for 
> future garb projects
> 
> otsisto wrote:
> >
>
http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/refo/ho_29.100.197.htm
> > 
> > Anne de Pisseleu
> > 
> > De
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

=====
Catalina
Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit


	
	
		
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Widow Weeds wrote:

>>This is a bit OT, but has anyone seen the 4-hour film
>>on Charles II that's on US TV tonight?
> 
> 
> My TiVo grabbed it and I'll watch it sometime this week. If there are any
> playhouses, I'll be sure to let you know.


What channel was that? Any chance it gets replayed?



Dawn



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> What channel was that? Any chance it gets replayed?

It was 4 hours on A&E last night.

You're in luck: the TiVo has future showings listed for 3/26 at 8pm, 3/27 at
12am, 3/27 at 1pm and 3/28 at 11am. Enjoy!


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> What channel was that? Any chance it gets replayed?

It was 4 hours on A&E last night.

You're in luck: the TiVo has future showings listed for 3/26 at 8pm, 3/27 at
12am, 3/27 at 1pm and 3/28 at 11am. Enjoy!


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Charles II on TV tonight
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> Specifically, i'm hoping there are some good scenes
> set in London playhouses--does anyone know if there are?

At 2:11 of the four-hour program there's a bit at "Theatre Royal, Drury Lane
1669" that may be of interest. It runs for about four minutes and has stage
and backstage scenes.



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> You're in luck: the TiVo has future showings listed for 3/26 at 8pm, 

I should qualify those are US Eastern times.

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> Specifically, i'm hoping there are some good scenes
> set in London playhouses--does anyone know if there are?

At 2:11 of the four-hour program there's a bit at "Theatre Royal, Drury Lane
1669" that may be of interest. It runs for about four minutes and has stage
and backstage scenes.



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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Carpal tunnel and/or arthritis
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Hi Allison,

I have bilateral epichondilitis (sp?), which is tendonitis in both
arms.  I went to PT for 9 months, took Vioxx, etc, etc, but with very
little results.  Then, the doctor sent me to acupuncture.  By the 2nd
treatment, I was soooo much better, it was incredible.  I go once a
week now and it really helps to control the pain and swelling.  The
bonus is that if I have any other problems (pain in the knee, edema,
etc), he treats that too!!

HTH,
Mary

> Message: 5
> Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 15:05:01 -0600
> From: Allison <allison@aristotle.net>
> Subject: [h-cost] Carpal tunnel and/or arthritis
> 
> Any other sewers/handcrafters out there have any advice for this
> aging 
> baby boomer?  Every time I hand sew I get terrible numbness and 
> tingling in my fingers, and pain in my forearms.  And my right
> thumb 
> joint is giving me trouble, with what I know is early
> osteoarthritis. 
> My hands are beginning to look like my mother's did as she got
> older.
> 
> It's gotten bad enough that I sew by hand for about 15 minutes,
> then 
> put it down for several hours, which means I'll have trouble
> finishing 
> the project in time.  (I'm doing heavy duty hand sewing - putting
> in 
> bound buttonholes on a bodice.)
> 
> Any recommendations on what helps this?  Do I really need to see a 
> doctor who will probably just tell me to stop using my hands (yeah,
> 
> right !!!!), or at least wear a wrist brace/wrap and take Tylenol? 
> I 
> already do these things.
> 
> Thanks, guys!
> 
> Allison P
> 


=====
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From: "Cindy Abel" <brujne@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Charles II on TV tonight
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 14:29:10 -0600
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>>This is a bit OT, but has anyone seen the 4-hour film
>>on Charles II that's on US TV tonight?
>
>
> My TiVo grabbed it and I'll watch it sometime this week. If there are any
> playhouses, I'll be sure to let you know.

There is one playhouse scene with Nell Gwynn and a court masque scene.


What channel was that? Any chance it gets replayed?

This was on the A&E (Arts and Entertainment)cable channel last
night(Sunday).  It is also available on DVD. Costumes were okay but the
mid-late 17th century are not my particular area of interest. There was one
scene showing Catherine of Braganza romping in the garden with her dogs in a
man's velvet suit which I took exception to--is there any record of her ever
wearing men's clothing, even in a court masque? It seems definately out of
character for her.

Cindy Abel



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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Mar 22 15:52:59 2004
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I went to a conventional orthopedist for my wrist
injury (from computer work), and just got a shot of
cortizone that hurt more than the injury.  What really
worked was getting acupuncture.  For the pain of a few
pinpricks, a session every month saves me surgery.

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     My preferred treatment for repetitive strain problems is massage therapy.  
I learned a few interesting things - it's not always the wrist that causes the 
problem.  Numbness and tingling in the fingers can be caused by a problem 
anywhere from the spine to the wrist.  That's why treatment in the shoulder or 
underarm might work for some.  Another frequent culprit is the muscles just 
below the elbow.  That's the area that causes problems for mail sorters and 
bricklayers.

     I had a bad experience with cortisone.  Theoretically it takes at least 
three shots to cause bone damage, but I apparently got it from just one shot.  
People's bodies react differently, and the "normal" thing may not be good.

     I also recommend learning massage techniques.  Even though it also works 
the hands, it helps to massage one's own muscles at times.

     Good luck in treating the problem!

     -Carol

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At Sun, 21 Mar 2004 10:18:06 -0800, Kat <kat@grendal.rain.com> wrote:

> > >This aging process isn't much fun, is it?
> >
> > Yeah, but it beats the alternative...
>
>I want *more* alternatives!

Umm... physical activity? (Conditioning, etc.)  OK, maybe I'm too young 
(43) to have experienced any of this in the worst of its horrific glory, 
but don't they say that (properly!) exercising helps minimize the 
limitations of many of these soft-tissue injuries/degenerations/whatever?


Brenda, who *finally* joined a gym last month and managed to bounce back to 
*almost* college condition within a month
webwarren@earthlink.net

Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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OT, For some reason when I go to yahoo groups and sign on h-costume is not
listed as one of my groups.
I am still getting mail so I am confused.
Could the moderator or person in charge check to make sure that there is an
alfrdis listed and not alfrdis2000.

De
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Hi De,

That's because the H-Costume mailing list itself is not a yahoo group.

The details are at the bottom of each message - it's with www.indra.com

If you go to the bottom of the page at
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume , you should be able to
check the details yourself.

Glenda.

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Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 16:05:50 -0800
Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] Re: Carpal tunnel and/or arthritis
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> Umm... physical activity? (Conditioning, etc.)  OK, maybe I'm too 
> young 
> (43) to have experienced any of this in the worst of its horrific 
> glory, 
> but don't they say that (properly!) exercising helps minimize the 
> limitations of many of these soft-tissue 
> injuries/degenerations/whatever?
> 
> 
> Brenda, who *finally* joined a gym last month and managed to bounce 
> back to 
> *almost* college condition within a month
> webwarren@earthlink.net

Congratulations, Brenda! :-) You're one of the lucky ones.

RA patients can NOT do any sort of impact exercise unless it's very low
or no impact. I hope to get into a Tai Chi class one of these days. The
problem for us is that joint impacts and streses cause damage,
distortion, can trigger flare-ups, and generally be Very Nasty.

Movement is good--but it has to be the right kind of movement.

Arlys

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] French ? tudor
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I've always loved that portrait of "the" Eleanor, but it's
a. not "Tudor"
B. not "French"
C. the embroidery runs the length of the arm and not around the 
circumference of the upper arm.
The embroidery does have the same "look" to it, though, as far as 
construction methods go...reminds me of more subtle versions of the 
Helen Snackenburg (sp?) portrait "trim" of linear/interlaced designs 
done in gold work, couched on bands and then applied to the garment.
I like them all!
--sue, hopeless historical costume/clothing lover....sigh ;o)

Catalina Saravia Quicedo wrote:
> http://www.geocities.com/ailithmac/portraits.html
> 
> Look at the Potrait of Eleonora in the pink/rose
> dress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  --- Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote: > Hey,
> haven't seen that one before.  It looks pretty,
> 
>>and simple.  The 
>>band of trim or embroidery around the upper arms
>>strikes me as pretty 
>>unusual, though.  Has anyone seen others like that?
>>--sue, currently planted firmly in the 14th c, but
>>bookmarking it for 
>>future garb projects
>>
>>otsisto wrote:
>>
> http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/refo/ho_29.100.197.htm
> 
>>>Anne de Pisseleu
>>>
>>>De

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] fingerloop braiding: black band
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I have a friend who does finger-loop, but then she's much more 
coordinated about such things than I!
I'm forever working out trades with her.  Perhaps you could do the same 
with someone you know who does it?
--sue, understanding physical limitations in one's craft all too well....

Cynthia J Ley wrote:

> My problem is that my fingers wouldn't be able to stand the stress. I do
> have a lucet though--may give that a try.
> 
> Arlys
> 
> On Sat, 20 Mar 2004 13:33:41 -0800 "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
> writes:
> 
>>Every time I go to that page and look at those instructions I cringe. 
>> It is a good thing that I don't have to make my living manipulating
> 
> things 
> 
>>like this with my hands.
>>
>>Regina
>>
>>
>>
>>>A finger-looped braid was one of the most common laces for closing 
>>
>>women's
>>
>>>dresses in the 15th c., most likely of silk.  
> 

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There's always "twining" a cord, too, don't forget.  That's when you 
twist string or thread one way, fold it in half, and let it twist up 
upon itself the other way.  Basically like they make rope.

It's probably not as strong as fingerloop or lucet, but in my 
experience, is strong enough for most uses.

If you have a lot to do, you can attach your threads to a doorknob on 
one end, and to a little hook held in a power drill at the other, and 
spin away!  You'll need a second pair of hands to accomplish a smooth 
fold in half motion, if the length before folding is longer than your 
spread arms.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

We belong to the "What Does This Button Do?" school of decision making. 
-- Kaja Foglio
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> > > >This aging process isn't much fun, is it?
> > >
> > > Yeah, but it beats the alternative...
> >
> >I want *more* alternatives!
> 
> Umm... physical activity? (Conditioning, etc.)  OK, maybe I'm too
> young (43) to have experienced any of this in the worst of its
> horrific glory, but don't they say that (properly!) exercising helps
> minimize the limitations of many of these soft-tissue
> injuries/degenerations/whatever?

But that still isn't enough.

> Brenda, who *finally* joined a gym last month and managed to bounce
> back to *almost* college condition within a month
> webwarren@earthlink.net

Congratulations! (It just shows you that backpacking around NYC is 
good for you but not the same kind of exercies. I knew you could do 
it!)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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From: "Jennifer Sena" <distantdesigns@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] repetetive strains, etc.
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 22:40:06 -0800
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>      I had a bad experience with cortisone.  Theoretically it takes at 
>least
>three shots to cause bone damage, but I apparently got it from just one 
>shot.
>People's bodies react differently, and the "normal" thing may not be good.
>

Cortisone caused huge jumps in my blood sugars too.  One shot threw my 
system off for two weeks.

>      I also recommend learning massage techniques.  Even though it also 
>works
>the hands, it helps to massage one's own muscles at times.

I just bought a workbook on doing self-trigger point massage.  Using a 
tennis ball in a sock to rub your back against a wall is one of the ideas 
for working areas I can't reach. There are also recommendations on hand 
positioning to save the rub-er's hands while working on the rub-ee.  I found 
it looking for info on frozen shoulder.


Jennifer Sena
Distant Designs
http://home.teleport.com/~cedric/distdesi

I wont hurt you, I just want to dress you up!!



>

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Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2004 03:52:34 -0600
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So are there files that can be accessed?
I tried to see about accessing links and files but it would not let me.

De
a novice at understanding computers.

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I have come to understand Pilates is a low impact.
A study has found that dancing staves of ol' timers memory lose.
Also, if you do something with one had learn to use the other helps with
memory, and injuries caused by repetition.
For your eyes it is recommend by many ophthalmologists to look up from your
work every 20 or so minutes and focus on something at a distance. Plus do
not read or do detailed work in a dim environment as this will strain the
eyes.

De

-----Original Message-----
RA patients can NOT do any sort of impact exercise unless it's very low
or no impact. I hope to get into a Tai Chi class one of these days. The
problem for us is that joint impacts and streses cause damage,
distortion, can trigger flare-ups, and generally be Very Nasty.

Movement is good--but it has to be the right kind of movement.

Arlys

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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Cindy Abel wrote:



>Costumes were okay but the
>mid-late 17th century are not my particular area of interest. There
was >one scene showing Catherine of Braganza romping in the garden with
>her dogs in a man's velvet suit which I took exception to--is there any
>record of her ever
>wearing men's clothing, even in a court masque? It seems definately
out >of character for her.

This must be the series with Rufus Sewell that  we had in the UK a
couple of months back. I thought the scene with the Queen in men's
clothes a bit odd. In general the characterisation was convincing even
though some historical details were inaccurate.

Cindy Abel



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Found these will looking for something.

Marguete de Baviere (Bavaria?)
http://musenor.poleuniv-lille-npdc.fr/fr/html/images/imgcorpus/popup/L00773.
jpg

Bathsheba
http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/m/memling/3mature2/25nobath.jpg
Have a look at the servant woman's hem. Almost looks like a ruffle.

Johanna van Grudingen (ger./Flemish?)tudor
http://musenor.poleuniv-lille-npdc.fr/fr/html/images/imgcorpus/popup/L00260.
jpg
The partlet has two colour embroidery.

Magdalen
http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/s/scorel/magdalen.jpg
I have another url where the picture is more vibrant. This dress looks
comfortable. My question is - Is it romanticized or what they would have
worn?
If I had the time I would love to see about making this dress (with a
different embroidery design at the neck.

De

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Hey, I'm going to jump into this topic from a slightly different angle.  Carpal tunnel and arthritis arn't necisarily caused by age, trust me.  I'm only 25 and having surgery next month for it.   

Carpal tunnel is caused by the tendon at the base of your palm putting pressure on the nerve that runs between it.  Many different things can cause this but the most common one, and the one you probably have, is caused by pinching and moving the wrist. 

When your hand sewing try your best to find a way of holding the needle and your hand where you get the least amount of creasing between the fleshy pads on your palm right above the wrist.  Keeping your pinky extended is the best way that I have found to do this, but it takes some getting used to.   

Another thing that can make a significant difference is to get a wrist brace/splint that has the metal bar in it.  Wear this while you sleep, it gives your carpal nerve a forced period of relief from the flexing and pinching.  You would be surprised the kind of movement you do in your sleep that can further or prolong the irritation to the nerve.  

If those things don't significantly relieve the numbness and pain you can talk to your DR about a cortisone shot into the tendon.  This hurts the first two days a lot but the relief is well worth it.  

Keep in mind the most important things.  Nerve damage can become permanent, surgery is an option if the problem persists, and talk to the DR NOW before it becomes worse and you run out of treatment options.  

Kit

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> Bathsheba
> http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/m/memling/3mature2/25nobath.jpg
> Have a look at the servant woman's hem. Almost looks like a ruffle.

There are several from the 15th century that look like ruffles.  The 
image of noble women as bricklayers from the Medieval Women calendar 
comes to mind.

I think they are ruffles.  Others think it's the effect of a different, 
thicker, fabric.


-- 
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With Margruete and Johanna it seems the url is too long so it's not getting
the jpg at the end. So you will probably have to type in manually if you
wish to see the pictures.

De

-----Original Message-----
Found these will looking for something.

Marguete de Baviere (Bavaria?)
http://musenor.poleuniv-lille-npdc.fr/fr/html/images/imgcorpus/popup/L00773.
jpg

Bathsheba
http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/m/memling/3mature2/25nobath.jpg
Have a look at the servant woman's hem. Almost looks like a ruffle.

Johanna van Grudingen (ger./Flemish?)tudor
http://musenor.poleuniv-lille-npdc.fr/fr/html/images/imgcorpus/popup/L00260.
jpg
The partlet has two colour embroidery.

Magdalen
http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/s/scorel/magdalen.jpg
I have another url where the picture is more vibrant. This dress looks
comfortable. My question is - Is it romanticized or what they would have
worn?
If I had the time I would love to see about making this dress (with a
different embroidery design at the neck.

De

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Well in this case it's made of the same material. So maybe it is a ruffle.
:)

<There are several from the 15th century that look like ruffles.  The
image of noble women as bricklayers from the Medieval Women calendar
comes to mind.>

In most instances, if the fabric is heavier on the bottom then the folds
form on the top lighter fabric. At least that is what I have observed.

<I think they are ruffles.  Others think it's the effect of a different,
thicker, fabric.>

De

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] fingerloop braiding: black band
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That's a thought. :-)

Arlys

On Mon, 22 Mar 2004 20:06:48 -0700 Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
writes:
> I have a friend who does finger-loop, but then she's much more 
> coordinated about such things than I!
> I'm forever working out trades with her.  Perhaps you could do the 
> same 
> with someone you know who does it?
> --sue, understanding physical limitations in one's craft all too 
> well....


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Couldn't the same effect be achieved by pleating?

Arlys

On Tue, 23 Mar 2004 09:23:17 -0500 Cynthia Virtue
<cvirtue+dated+1095603758.48b037@thibault.org> writes:
> 
> > Bathsheba
> > http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/m/memling/3mature2/25nobath.jpg
> > Have a look at the servant woman's hem. Almost looks like a ruffle.
> 
> There are several from the 15th century that look like ruffles.  The 
> image of noble women as bricklayers from the Medieval Women calendar 
> comes to mind.
> 
> I think they are ruffles.  Others think it's the effect of a 
> different, 
> thicker, fabric.
> 
> 
> -- 
> Cynthia Virtue and/or
> Cynthia du Pré Argent
> 
> We belong to the "What Does This Button Do?" school of decision 
> making. 
> -- Kaja Foglio
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] repetetive strains, etc.
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Anyone tried acupressure? It's great for knots and suchlike.

A friend of mine does Reiki, which is a terrific way of getting rid of
blockages and making you feel much better all around.

Arlys

 
> I just bought a workbook on doing self-trigger point massage.  Using 
> a 
> tennis ball in a sock to rub your back against a wall is one of the 
> ideas 
> for working areas I can't reach. There are also recommendations on 
> hand 
> positioning to save the rub-er's hands while working on the rub-ee.  
> I found 
> it looking for info on frozen shoulder.
> 
> 
> Jennifer Sena
> Distant Designs
> http://home.teleport.com/~cedric/distdesi
> 
> I wont hurt you, I just want to dress you up!!
> 
> 
> 
> >
> 
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Mar 23 11:36:39 2004
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Sue Clemenger wrote:

> I've always loved that portrait of "the" Eleanor, but it's
> a. not "Tudor"
> B. not "French"

I'm curious as to why you say it's not 'Tudor', is it because it's not 
English?



Dawn




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Cynthia J Ley wrote:

> Anyone tried acupressure? It's great for knots and suchlike.
> 

I took a course in accupressure some ten or more years ago. It's been a 
lifesaver, and made me a lot of friends over the years. It's our number 
one method of dealing with headaches here at home.

But it doesn't do much for my arthritis or the use-related hand and 
wrist injuries that I have to work around while sewing. I have 
prescription meds for the disease and the pain but I've found the best 
'cure' is simply knowing when to stop, and giving the joints a rest when 
they need it.



Dawn



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Subject: [h-cost] buttonhole - parallel or perpendicular?
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greetings all,

does anyone know the history/logic behind the custom of using buttonholes parallel to the hemline (such as those on modern shirts) vs. buttonholes perpendicular to the hemline (as used on modern suit jackets, trousers/skirts)? 

having just tried on a shirt that is too small across the chest for me, I decided not to wear it after the buttons slid out of the buttonholes - but it occurred to me that perpendicular buttonholes would be more secure, which set me to wondering....

I look forward to the discussion!

-- Pandora Fitzpatrick


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Mar 23 12:57:43 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] buttonhole - parallel or perpendicular?
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I don't know about the buttonhole position offhand, but you could always stitch the buttonholes up a bit to make them smaller and more secure.

Lisa Sinervo

---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: <pandoraf@verizon.net>
Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date:  Tue, 23 Mar 2004 11:28:20 -0600

>greetings all,
>
>does anyone know the history/logic behind the custom of using buttonholes parallel to the hemline (such as those on modern shirts) vs. buttonholes perpendicular to the hemline (as used on modern suit jackets, trousers/skirts)? 
>
>having just tried on a shirt that is too small across the chest for me, I decided not to wear it after the buttons slid out of the buttonholes - but it occurred to me that perpendicular buttonholes would be more secure, which set me to wondering....
>
>I look forward to the discussion!
>
>-- Pandora Fitzpatrick
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
 
             
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] French ? tudor
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> http://www.geocities.com/ailithmac/elenora.jpg

> I'm curious as to why you say it's not 'Tudor', is it because it's not 
> English?

"Tudor" to my mind is a specific style that is really only found in 
England typical of the years of Henry VIII's reign through Mary I (of 
course there's plenty of variation within that time period as the 
fashion evolved, but for simplicity's sake just go with me on this).  
Stylistically, I guess you could include French fashion during those 
years as well, as England and France tended to feed off each other when 
it came to fashion (again there's a whole lot of variation between the 
regions, but the basic silhouette is similar).  But Italian fashion is 
markedly different during this period, and the Elenora de Toledo outfit 
that's being discussed is neither French or English in flavor.  Since 
I'm not an expert in Italian clothing of this era, I'll leave it to 
someone else to pinpoint this particular outfit's regional influence.  
:)

Sarah
http://www.modehistorique.com

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: "ruffle"
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As to the "ruffle" on the bottom of the servant's gown: several writers have
referred to it as a "frill," which I guess is the preferred British term for
ruffle. I can't say whether they are considered definitive or not, but I've
read it in several books. It looks like a ruffle to me. In fact, I was just
planning on making one myself, for practical reasons. I'm making an
undergown and the pieces of cloth I have aren't long enough for four
floor-length pieces. So rather than piece it, I'm going to make it about
mid-calf length and use different pieces of the same fabric to make a long,
straight strip which I'll gather slightly and sew on the bottom. Normally I
do gores on the side, too, but it's an undergown and doesn't need to be as
full as the overgown. I'll just make the skirt part of the body pieces a
little wider than usual.

Gail Finke

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Carpal tunnel and/or arthritis
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2004 14:06:36 -0500
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Another thing that can make a significant difference is to get a wrist brace/splint that has the metal bar in it.  Wear this while you sleep, it gives your carpal nerve a forced period of relief from the flexing and pinching.  You would be surprised the kind of movement you do in your sleep that can further or prolong the irritation to the nerve.  

A wrist brace doesn't have to be one of the fancy medical ones.  Sports stores sell bowling braces that work almost as well and are much cheaper.  They come right and left handed and in sizes.

Janet 

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Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2004 11:28:56 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] buttonhole - parallel or perpendicular?
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> greetings all,
>
> does anyone know the history/logic behind the custom of using buttonholes
> parallel to the hemline (such as those on modern shirts) vs. buttonholes
> perpendicular to the hemline (as used on modern suit jackets,
> trousers/skirts)?
>
> having just tried on a shirt that is too small across the chest for me, I
> decided not to wear it after the buttons slid out of the buttonholes - but
> it occurred to me that perpendicular buttonholes would be more secure,
> which set me to wondering....
>
> I look forward to the discussion!
>
> -- Pandora Fitzpatrick

I don't know for sure, but I was told that for fast, economical, modern
clothing production, buttonholes are done perpendicular to the ground.  I
am not sure why it is cheaper but that was what someone told me.

If you tried on a shirt where they were done parallel to the ground and
still had an issue with them coming out, I am stumped.  I would think that
buttons parallel to the ground would be the most secure.

-- 
Diana Habra
www.renaissancefabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Carpal tunnel and/or arthritis
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>Keep in mind the most important things.  Nerve damage can become 
>permanent, surgery is an option if the problem persists, and talk to the 
>DR NOW before it becomes worse and you run out of treatment options.

The trouble is that there's no surgery if you don't have actual carpal 
tunnel problems.  Those of us with ordinary tendonitis, or arthritis, don't 
have that option.  With no surgical relief, we have to do those other 
things instead, like resting just as it starts hurting, planning longer 
lead times for projects, to accommodate flare-ups, etc.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 4 pictures
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Is there any way of getting it without being a popup?  I have a popup 
blocker and my machine won't open these pictures!

Jean


otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote
>With Margruete and Johanna it seems the url is too long so it's not getting
>the jpg at the end. So you will probably have to type in manually if you
>wish to see the pictures.
>
>De
>
>-----Original Message-----
>Found these will looking for something.
>
>Marguete de Baviere (Bavaria?)
>http://musenor.poleuniv-lille-npdc.fr/fr/html/images/imgcorpus/popup/L00773.
>jpg
>
>Bathsheba
>http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/m/memling/3mature2/25nobath.jpg
>Have a look at the servant woman's hem. Almost looks like a ruffle.
>
>Johanna van Grudingen (ger./Flemish?)tudor
>http://musenor.poleuniv-lille-npdc.fr/fr/html/images/imgcorpus/popup/L00260.
>jpg
>The partlet has two colour embroidery.
>
>Magdalen
>http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/s/scorel/magdalen.jpg
>I have another url where the picture is more vibrant. This dress looks
>comfortable. My question is - Is it romanticized or what they would have
>worn?
>If I had the time I would love to see about making this dress (with a
>different embroidery design at the neck.
>
>De
>
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2004 19:44:43 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] buttonhole - parallel or perpendicular?
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When the buttonhole is parallel to the edge, strain will tend to stretch 
it open, which both makes the buttons come undone and deforms the 
fabric. Buttonholes perpendicular to the edge avoid both those problems.

I don't know what the advantage is of having parallel buttonholes. 
Maybe it's something to do with industrial sewing machines.  But if they 
are cheaper, I can see the logic of using them on shirts, which are 
washed after one or two wearings so the buttonholes can get back into 
shape, but not on jackets where the stretch would be permanent.  I think 
on waistbands the amount of strain dictates that perpendicular 
buttonholes are essential.

Jean


Diana Habra <dch@inreach.com> wrote
>
>> greetings all,
>>
>> does anyone know the history/logic behind the custom of using buttonholes
>> parallel to the hemline (such as those on modern shirts) vs. buttonholes
>> perpendicular to the hemline (as used on modern suit jackets,
>> trousers/skirts)?
>>
>> having just tried on a shirt that is too small across the chest for me, I
>> decided not to wear it after the buttons slid out of the buttonholes - but
>> it occurred to me that perpendicular buttonholes would be more secure,
>> which set me to wondering....
>>
>> I look forward to the discussion!
>>
>> -- Pandora Fitzpatrick
>
>I don't know for sure, but I was told that for fast, economical, modern
>clothing production, buttonholes are done perpendicular to the ground.  I
>am not sure why it is cheaper but that was what someone told me.
>
>If you tried on a shirt where they were done parallel to the ground and
>still had an issue with them coming out, I am stumped.  I would think that
>buttons parallel to the ground would be the most secure.
>

-- 
Jean Waddie
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Katie Pleasance <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] buttonhole - parallel or perpendicular?
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I convert buttonholes that are perpendicular to the ground (parallel to the 
opening) to parallel to the ground (perpendicular to the opening). I also 
make them as tight as possible while still being usable. Oh, and sometimes 
I reinforce the end of the buttonhole that takes the strain.

The only reason that I wouldn't do this is if it causes a visible 
authenticity problem

Katie

At 07:44 PM 3/23/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>When the buttonhole is parallel to the edge, strain will tend to stretch 
>it open, which both makes the buttons come undone and deforms the fabric. 
>Buttonholes perpendicular to the edge avoid both those problems.
>
>I don't know what the advantage is of having parallel buttonholes. Maybe 
>it's something to do with industrial sewing machines.  But if they are 
>cheaper, I can see the logic of using them on shirts, which are washed 
>after one or two wearings so the buttonholes can get back into shape, but 
>not on jackets where the stretch would be permanent.  I think on 
>waistbands the amount of strain dictates that perpendicular buttonholes 
>are essential.
>
>Jean



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>
>
>does anyone know the history/logic behind the custom of using buttonholes parallel to the hemline (such as those on modern shirts) vs. buttonholes perpendicular to the hemline (as used on modern suit jackets, trousers/skirts)? 
>
My understanding is that buttonholes which will be taking stress are 
placed perpendicular to the opening. If they are parallel, the designer 
probably intended a looser fit.
-Lisa

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 4 pictures
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Jean wrote:

> Is there any way of getting it without being a popup?  I have a popup
> blocker and my machine won't open these pictures!

Check your pop-up blocker.  Earthlink, for example, allows you to give
site-by-site permission for pop-ups.  Only sites you enable will give you
the pop-ups, ie, like friend's with pictures.  See what your blocker offers.
You can also try double-clicking, sometimes twice.  This will usually
over-ride the pop-up blocker, without making changes to the allow list (at
least on Earthlink).
Try it,
            -Helen/Aidan


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] buttonholes
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I have heard that reasoning and that modern reason for ready to wear is
because of the sewing machine.

De
-----Original Message-----

My understanding is that buttonholes which will be taking stress are
placed perpendicular to the opening. If they are parallel, the designer
probably intended a looser fit.
-Lisa

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Subject: [h-cost] Bathsheba    was: 4 pictures
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Yeah, pleats could have been used to ease the fabric in. OMG, is that a
poodle? So intent with the garment I had not realized there was a dog in the
picture :)
The Bathrobe is interesting.

De

-----Original Message-----

Couldn't the same effect be achieved by pleating?

Arlys


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: "ruffle"
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In a message dated 3/23/2004 2:22:27 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
gailscott@eos.net writes:

> As to the "ruffle" on the bottom of the servant's gown: several writers 
> have
> referred to it as a "frill," which I guess is the preferred British term for
> ruffle. 

It also looks sheer.
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My using the popups is because the url is short.

Johanna
http://musenor.poleuniv-lille-npdc.fr/php/corpus/index2.php?ref=0051&id=5745
725533f0685630e19&lang=fr

Marguerite (you will have to scroll down for her picture)
http://musenor.poleuniv-lille-npdc.fr/php/corpus/index2.php?ref=0069&id=5745
725533f06285630e19&lang=fr


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De wrote:
 OMG, is that a
> poodle?

No, but definitely an ancestor- it's probably a small rough-coated spaniel
or retriever, many of which had become popular companion animals during the
Renaissance.  Poodles, at best, go back maybe 400 years, which is still more
than 100 years after the Bathsheba picture (1485), and are believed to have
been developed from those types of dogs (large and small).
                  -Helen/Aidan


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Hey there Helen - I'd be interested to know your resources for the 
information below.  I'm not so willing to call it "not a poodle"

I can document poodles - as you stated - to the 1500's.  This includes 
references to

Gessner, Conrad 1553. Historie of foure-footed beastes : describing the 
true and lively figure of every beast, with a discourse of their severall 
names, conditions, kindes, vertues ... / collected out of all the volumes 
of Conradus Gesner, and other writers to this present day, 1607 reprint.

Markham, Gervase. Hungers Prevention:  Or the Whole Art of Fowling by Water 
& Land. London, 1621.

Cockaine, Sir Thomas. A Short Treatise of Hunting, 1591, by Sir Thomas 
Cockaine, with and Introduction by W.R. Halliday. 5. Shakespeare 
Association, London.

Bruegel, Pieter. Netherlandish Proverbs. 1559.

---. The Sermon of St. John the Baptist. 1566.

However there are also:

VanOs, Gouda. The Author Dines with Understanding. 1486, Leiden.

Weyden, Rogier Van der. The Sacramet of the Final Unction - in the Triptych 
of the Seven Sacraments. 1445.

Phoebus, Gaston. The Art of the Hunt.  written mid 1300's.

And I also have a picture from a mid-1200s illumination... which of course 
I  can't find right now... showing the King of France with his 
Caniche  (aka Pudel / shough dogge / water dogge / water spaniel (these are 
tricky) / Pudelhund / Barbet)

It sounds like you are as avid a historian for this breed as I am.  Do you 
speak Middle German by chance?  I have a lead on some fowling and coy 
records that might date the pudle as a working dog back even further.



>De wrote:
>  OMG, is that a
> > poodle?
>
>No, but definitely an ancestor- it's probably a small rough-coated spaniel
>or retriever, many of which had become popular companion animals during the
>Renaissance.  Poodles, at best, go back maybe 400 years, which is still more
>than 100 years after the Bathsheba picture (1485), and are believed to have
>been developed from those types of dogs (large and small).
>                   -Helen/Aidan
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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Today I discovered two things. One was that McCall's has three new costume
patterns out "In the Medieval Style" most are princess line.
Two, hershey kisses just came out with caramel centers and oh my are they
goooood. :)

De
Calories? What calories? Chocolate don't have no calories. :)

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From: "Helen  Pinto" <hpinto@mindspring.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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	<5.2.1.1.2.20040323181017.00bb4550@postoffice8.mail.cornell.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: poodles
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2004 02:31:14 -0500
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My source is nothing more exciting than the thumbnail in the encyclopedia:
your list trumps mine fourteen ways to Sunday.  But do the pre-16 c. sources
actually call the dog a poodle?
While I come from a long line of dog people, we lean toward terriers-
Scotties and giant Schnauzers.  Dogs with opinions.  And Dobies.
Thanks for the offer of the research, but I've got too many irons in the
fire already and I can't afford to get sucked into another one.  It would be
too easy.  Besides, my German is a one-semester course in Engineering School
to learn to read abstracts, only abstracts.
BTW, have you seen this list of poodles in art:
http://www.poodlehistory.org/PZZGPV.HTM   Mostly late, but interesting
nonetheless.
                             -Helen/Aidan


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mari Stewart" <ms154@cornell.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2004 6:29 PM
Subject: [h-cost] re: poodles


>
> Hey there Helen - I'd be interested to know your resources for the
> information below.  I'm not so willing to call it "not a poodle"
>
> I can document poodles - as you stated - to the 1500's.  This includes
> references to
>
> Gessner, Conrad 1553. Historie of foure-footed beastes : describing the
> true and lively figure of every beast, with a discourse of their severall
> names, conditions, kindes, vertues ... / collected out of all the volumes
> of Conradus Gesner, and other writers to this present day, 1607 reprint.
>
> Markham, Gervase. Hungers Prevention:  Or the Whole Art of Fowling by
Water
> & Land. London, 1621.
>
> Cockaine, Sir Thomas. A Short Treatise of Hunting, 1591, by Sir Thomas
> Cockaine, with and Introduction by W.R. Halliday. 5. Shakespeare
> Association, London.
>
> Bruegel, Pieter. Netherlandish Proverbs. 1559.
>
> ---. The Sermon of St. John the Baptist. 1566.
>
> However there are also:
>
> VanOs, Gouda. The Author Dines with Understanding. 1486, Leiden.
>
> Weyden, Rogier Van der. The Sacramet of the Final Unction - in the
Triptych
> of the Seven Sacraments. 1445.
>
> Phoebus, Gaston. The Art of the Hunt.  written mid 1300's.
>
> And I also have a picture from a mid-1200s illumination... which of course
> I  can't find right now... showing the King of France with his
> Caniche  (aka Pudel / shough dogge / water dogge / water spaniel (these
are
> tricky) / Pudelhund / Barbet)
>
> It sounds like you are as avid a historian for this breed as I am.  Do you
> speak Middle German by chance?  I have a lead on some fowling and coy
> records that might date the pudle as a working dog back even further.
>
>
>
> >De wrote:
> >  OMG, is that a
> > > poodle?
> >
> >No, but definitely an ancestor- it's probably a small rough-coated
spaniel
> >or retriever, many of which had become popular companion animals during
the
> >Renaissance.  Poodles, at best, go back maybe 400 years, which is still
more
> >than 100 years after the Bathsheba picture (1485), and are believed to
have
> >been developed from those types of dogs (large and small).
> >                   -Helen/Aidan
> >
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >h-costume mailing list
> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
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>


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Mar 24 06:47:12 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Carpal tunnel and/or arthritis
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And besides to 'brace' to wear at night, in one of the 'old folks'
catalogues, there is a palm splint designed to keep the digits opened and
not fisted. haven't tried this one Yet, but it is on my list.  Bought a foam
knee pad pillow and it is great for resting the pressure of my knees rubbing
together.  Another '
alternative'?
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <NightsScarling@aol.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2004 9:16 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Carpal tunnel and/or arthritis


> Hey, I'm going to jump into this topic from a slightly different angle.
Carpal tunnel and arthritis arn't necisarily caused by age, trust me.  I'm
only 25 and having surgery next month for it.
>
> Carpal tunnel is caused by the tendon at the base of your palm putting
pressure on the nerve that runs between it.  Many different things can cause
this but the most common one, and the one you probably have, is caused by
pinching and moving the wrist.
>
> When your hand sewing try your best to find a way of holding the needle
and your hand where you get the least amount of creasing between the fleshy
pads on your palm right above the wrist.  Keeping your pinky extended is the
best way that I have found to do this, but it takes some getting used to.
>
> Another thing that can make a significant difference is to get a wrist
brace/splint that has the metal bar in it.  Wear this while you sleep, it
gives your carpal nerve a forced period of relief from the flexing and
pinching.  You would be surprised the kind of movement you do in your sleep
that can further or prolong the irritation to the nerve.
>
> If those things don't significantly relieve the numbness and pain you can
talk to your DR about a cortisone shot into the tendon.  This hurts the
first two days a lot but the relief is well worth it.
>
> Keep in mind the most important things.  Nerve damage can become
permanent, surgery is an option if the problem persists, and talk to the DR
NOW before it becomes worse and you run out of treatment options.
>
> Kit
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] repetetive strains, etc.
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When I was in great distress several years ago, the 'trainer' at the college
gave me a whole list of ways to relieve my affected areas of continuing
stress. Changing positions and doing other things for a while was the
underlying key.  The first move he suggested was to arrange my work space so
that I Had to get up to do things for a project, instead of having
everything at hand.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2004 11:39 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] repetetive strains, etc.


> Cynthia J Ley wrote:
>
> > Anyone tried acupressure? It's great for knots and suchlike.
> >
>
> I took a course in accupressure some ten or more years ago. It's been a
> lifesaver, and made me a lot of friends over the years. It's our number
> one method of dealing with headaches here at home.
>
> But it doesn't do much for my arthritis or the use-related hand and
> wrist injuries that I have to work around while sewing. I have
> prescription meds for the disease and the pain but I've found the best
> 'cure' is simply knowing when to stop, and giving the joints a rest when
> they need it.
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] discovery
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I guess we need to do some pattern buying. I can no
longer have hershey's kisses......sigh.


 --- otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote: > Today I
discovered two things. One was that McCall's
> has three new costume
> patterns out "In the Medieval Style" most are
> princess line.
> Two, hershey kisses just came out with caramel
> centers and oh my are they
> goooood. :)
> 
> De
> Calories? What calories? Chocolate don't have no
> calories. :)
> 
> _______________________________________________
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=====
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Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2004 08:43:23 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Katie Pleasance <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: poodles
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If a medieval housewife had embroidered an image of said dogue onto the 
skirt of her kirtle, would that be the world's first Poodle Skirt?

<I couldn't help myself!>

Katie

At 02:31 AM 3/24/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>My source is nothing more exciting than the thumbnail in the encyclopedia:
>your list trumps mine fourteen ways to Sunday.  But do the pre-16 c. sources
>actually call the dog a poodle?
>While I come from a long line of dog people, we lean toward terriers-
>Scotties and giant Schnauzers.  Dogs with opinions.  And Dobies.
>Thanks for the offer of the research, but I've got too many irons in the
>fire already and I can't afford to get sucked into another one.  It would be
>too easy.  Besides, my German is a one-semester course in Engineering School
>to learn to read abstracts, only abstracts.
>BTW, have you seen this list of poodles in art:
>http://www.poodlehistory.org/PZZGPV.HTM   Mostly late, but interesting
>nonetheless.
>                              -Helen/Aidan



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Subject: [h-cost] Hans Holbein the Younger
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For 16th century costume fans : Hans Holbein the Younger: Painter at the
Court of Henry VIII is now available. Amazon.com has it for $31.50(they've
just shipped my copy although calling up this book says "Not yet released)
and bn.com has it available at $36.00.

Cindy Abel

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Mar 24 14:25:55 2004
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Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2004 11:17:36 -0800 (PST)
From: Angela Kessler <ivyharpdotcom@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Carpal tunnel and/or arthritis
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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There have been several good suggestions for dealing
with this issue, but I'd just like to add one more:
finger splints.  Wrist splints, as has been pointed
out, are readily available from a variety of sources
(including your local drugstore), but if the problem
is actually in the joints in the hand, they won't
help.  There is one company I know of that makes them:
http://www.silverringsplint.com/index.html
Apparently they are quite effective for both
tendonitis and arthritis.  The splints are medical
devices, so you can't order them directly.  As it was
explained to me, occupational therapists are most
involved with the hands, whereas physical therapists
and sports medicine people tend to work with larger
muscles/joints.  So you go to your local occupational
therapist and ask them whether Silver Ring Splints
might be effective for you.

-Angela

Disclaimer: My connection to the company is that my
thumb MCP splints have allowed me to play my harp
nearly every day for the past several weeks (prepping
for a performance) without pain, when a year ago after
Christmas I couldn't even pick up a glass of water
because my thumbs hurt so bad.  (I'm in my late 20s,
and my problem is caused by loose joints.)

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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] re: poodles
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2004 15:21:17 -0600
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And if she had a seme' of poodles on her heraldic sideless, she'd have
oodles of poodles.:)

(This is more low keyed then the origins of the French poodle)

De
-----Original Message-----
If a medieval housewife had embroidered an image of said dogue onto the
skirt of her kirtle, would that be the world's first Poodle Skirt?

<I couldn't help myself!>

Katie

At 02:31 AM 3/24/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>My source is nothing more exciting than the thumbnail in the encyclopedia:
>your list trumps mine fourteen ways to Sunday.  But do the pre-16 c.
sources
>actually call the dog a poodle?
>While I come from a long line of dog people, we lean toward terriers-
>Scotties and giant Schnauzers.  Dogs with opinions.  And Dobies.
>Thanks for the offer of the research, but I've got too many irons in the
>fire already and I can't afford to get sucked into another one.  It would
be
>too easy.  Besides, my German is a one-semester course in Engineering
School
>to learn to read abstracts, only abstracts.
>BTW, have you seen this list of poodles in art:
>http://www.poodlehistory.org/PZZGPV.HTM   Mostly late, but interesting
>nonetheless.
>                              -Helen/Aidan



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Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2004 15:21:18 -0600
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Oh no thank you, I'm already married. :)

De

-----Original Message-----
For 16th century costume fans : Hans Holbein the Younger: Painter at the
Court of Henry VIII is now available. 

Cindy Abel


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From: Lynn Downward <LDownward@chori.org>
To: h costume <h-costume@indra.com>,
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Subject: [h-cost] Tambour and millinery classes in Northern California
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Shameless plug for two great classes:

Hi and sorry for the cross-posting.

I wanted to let you all know that there will be a two-day tambour embroidery
class given in Martinez, CA (at the tip of S.F. Bay) on April 17 and 24.
This class is given by Karen Kurtz, a long-time professional dressmaker and
teacher in the San Jose/Los Gatos area.

There is also a two-day buckram-based millinery class given at the same
studio on April 3 and 10. Joycelyn Falsken will teach this class; she has
her own historic costuming business and teaches at S.F. State.

I've taken the millinery class and learned a great deal from Joycelyn. I'll
bring my Elizabethan tall hat to show what can be done in this wonderful
class. I've never taken a class from Karen, but I've known her for several
years and am truly impressed by her work. I've already signed up for this
class.

You can contact Joycelyn at jflasken@sfsu.edu for the flyer for either of
these two classes. I didn't send them to the lists as I know neither list
can receive attachments. Please mention the class in your subject line.

Thanks,
LynnD

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This was sent to my local SCA group list. If you haven't seen it yet, take a
look. It's fascinating!

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lena Breijer" <lenabreijer@yahoo.com>
To: "SCA Shire of Dragon Dormant Mailing List"
<sca.dragondormant@wolfstar.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2004 10:17 AM
Subject: [SCA-IDDML] For fibre enthusiasts


> To all those who love fiber, including Freya
>
> www.wormspit.com/index.htm
>
> Everything you always wanted to know about silk and
> some things you would rather not.  Not for lunch time
> viewing.
>
> Lady Magdalena
>
>
> =====
> http://www.geocities.com/lenabreijer   to see my art  work
http://www.avonemporium.com  great place to have
> something to eat, or stay a few days on the bay of Fundy
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Finance Tax Center - File online. File on time.
> http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html
> _______________________________________________
> Sca.dragondormant mailing list
> Sca.dragondormant@wolfstar.ca
> http://www.wolfstar.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/sca.dragondormant
>
_______________________________________________
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Thank you for sharing, we found it most interesting.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>;
<margospatterns@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2004 6:18 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Fw: [SCA-IDDML] For fibre enthusiasts


> This was sent to my local SCA group list. If you haven't seen it yet, take
a
> look. It's fascinating!
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Lena Breijer" <lenabreijer@yahoo.com>
> To: "SCA Shire of Dragon Dormant Mailing List"
> <sca.dragondormant@wolfstar.ca>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2004 10:17 AM
> Subject: [SCA-IDDML] For fibre enthusiasts
>
>
> > To all those who love fiber, including Freya
> >
> > www.wormspit.com/index.htm
> >
> > Everything you always wanted to know about silk and
> > some things you would rather not.  Not for lunch time
> > viewing.
> >
> > Lady Magdalena
> >
> >
> > =====
> > http://www.geocities.com/lenabreijer   to see my art  work
> http://www.avonemporium.com  great place to have
> > something to eat, or stay a few days on the bay of Fundy
> >
> > __________________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Finance Tax Center - File online. File on time.
> > http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html
> > _______________________________________________
> > Sca.dragondormant mailing list
> > Sca.dragondormant@wolfstar.ca
> > http://www.wolfstar.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/sca.dragondormant
> >
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: Jennifer Potts <jenpotts@shaw.ca>
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Greetings,

 

I am from the Interior of BC and am looking for a supplier of Appleton or
Paternayan Needlework wools.  I would prefer someone in Canada who does mail
order (in BC or at the Coast would make my year!).  I have a very ambitious
project I have almost completely passed the planning stages with, and am
very looking forward to the practical work.  If anyone could help, please
contact me off-list if you prefer.

 

Thank you for your time.

 

L. Giacinta Cocchetti

jenpotts@shaw.ca

 

 

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Mar 25 00:14:52 2004
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 00:13:17 -0500
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Subject: [h-cost] Wonderful site for vintage costume images
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http://thefrock.com

This site actually sells historic costume (from the 1860s through the 1950s or 
so.  But not just ordinary historic costume.  These items include couture and 
one-of-a-kind historic items.  No, I can't afford the price tags on them, but 
it's wonderful eye candy.  :-)


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Anything's within walking distance if you have the time." -Steven Wright
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> Greetings,
>
>
>
> I am from the Interior of BC and am looking for a supplier of Appleton or
> Paternayan Needlework wools.  I would prefer someone in Canada who does
mail
> order (in BC or at the Coast would make my year!).  I have a very
ambitious
> project I have almost completely passed the planning stages with, and am
> very looking forward to the practical work.  If anyone could help, please
> contact me off-list if you prefer.
>
>
>
> Thank you for your time.
>
>
>
> L. Giacinta Cocchetti
>
> jenpotts@shaw.ca
>

Hi!

I just received this Monday my first order of Paternayan and DMC Medicis
wool from a shop based in Ottawa. They were most helpful and prompt, and if
you do not have a credit card, will take money orders. All I did was email
them the colours and quantity, and they sent me back the total cost plus
shipping. At the speed at which I received my order, it must have gone in
the mail the same day my money order arrived at their shop! The only problem
I have with their website is if you have no idea what the colour numbers are
of the product you want to order, you will have no clue how to get what you
want. What I ended up doing was finding a web-page that shows the colours as
well as the numbers, writing down what I wanted, then ordering from the
Canadian company. :-) So far I am a happy customer!

Here is the page: http://www.cross-stitch.ca/index.html

Here is the site I use to help pick my colours:
http://www.independenceneedlepoint.com/ptpaternayanmain.htm

There was only one glitch in this system, the colour you see on the monitor
is not necessarily the same as what you get. :-) What I had thought was
going to be a nice spice red, was actually a dark pumpkin orange. It will
still be used, never fear, but now I know for next time.

Hope this helps, and please pass on any other Canadian suppliers as you find
them, I'm always looking as well.

Sheridan
(Sudbury, ON)


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Subject: [h-cost] Bathsheba and skirt ruffle [was Re: 4 pictures]
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I don't know if this illumination from the Getty is from the same time 
frame, but it also shows a ruffle at the edge of an underskirt:

"The Temperate and Intemperate"
Master of the Dresden Prayer Book
Flemish, Bruges, 1475 - 1480
http://www.getty.edu/art/collections/objects/oz112310.html
woman in the lower right corner

This one does, too, but it's really hard to see; I have a postcard of 
just the illumination, and it's much easier to see there:

"Gerard and Bertha Find Sustenance at a Hermitage"
Loyset Liédet
Flemish, Bruges, 1469 - 1472
http://www.getty.edu/art/collections/objects/oz4790.html

I also find the gigantic pins holding Bertha's sleeves to be 
interesting. I assume they weren't actually that big, but are painted 
that big so that the viewer knows they're there.



Claudine


otsisto wrote:
<snip>
> Bathsheba
> http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/m/memling/3mature2/25nobath.jpg
> Have a look at the servant woman's hem. Almost looks like a ruffle.
<snip>

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Subject: [h-cost] Charles II Miniseries - Catherine of Braganza's hair?
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Can anyone speak to the accuracy of Catherine of Braganza's extraordinarily
wide hairdo when she is first introduced to Charles? I thought it looked
completely invented, but then I found this picture of Maria Teresa of Spain
from the same time period, and she has something similar:

http://www.artchive.com/artchive/V/velazquez/two_watches.jpg.html

C. of B. was Portuguese; was this a Hispanic fashion of the times? If so,
surely this is a wig supported by wire; I don't think they had Aqua Net
then! Any idea how this style was created/maintained?

Not only am I curious for myself, but my (non-costumer) sister is wigging
(pun intended ;) ) over the seeming strangeness of the style.

Thanks in advance,

Allison T.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Charles II Miniseries - Catherine of Braganza's
	hair?
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Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> athurman@cybergal.com 25/03/2004 13:34:51 >>>wrote:
>Can anyone speak to the accuracy of Catherine of Braganza's
>extraordinarily wide hairdo when she is first introduced to Charles? I
>thought it looked completely invented, but then I found this picture of
>Maria Teresa of Spain from the same time period, and she has >something
similar.

Yes, the Hispanic countries were well known at this time for their
extremely formal and idiosyncratic court fashions. They kept the
farthingale long after other countries had discontinued its use.

For pictures of Queen Catherine when she first arrived in England and
later, see
 http://www.npg.org.uk/live/search/person.asp?LinkID=mp00804





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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Charles II Miniseries - Catherine of Braganza's hair?
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Hi,
I am so unfortunate, that i cant se that film on my tv set here in Denmark.
I would have loved to se it.
This hairstyle was wide spread troughout Europe, included Denmark. I have
sen several portraits with this style. I dont think any wire is used, but
some hairpads.
The Academy of Historical Hairstyles, also has tryed this hairstyle with
succes.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "A.Thurman" <athurman@cybergal.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2004 2:34 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Charles II Miniseries - Catherine of Braganza's hair?


> Can anyone speak to the accuracy of Catherine of Braganza's
extraordinarily
> wide hairdo when she is first introduced to Charles? I thought it looked
> completely invented, but then I found this picture of Maria Teresa of
Spain
> from the same time period, and she has something similar:
>
> http://www.artchive.com/artchive/V/velazquez/two_watches.jpg.html
>
> C. of B. was Portuguese; was this a Hispanic fashion of the times? If so,
> surely this is a wig supported by wire; I don't think they had Aqua Net
> then! Any idea how this style was created/maintained?
>
> Not only am I curious for myself, but my (non-costumer) sister is wigging
> (pun intended ;) ) over the seeming strangeness of the style.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Allison T.
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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Greetings!

My absolute favorite for the wools you are looking for is in Issaquah,
Washington, USA. Denice at Thread Needle Street.  Her Url is:
www.Threadneedlestreet.com

She carries both and if she doesn't have it, she'll order it.

I hope this helps!

Gia/Emer
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jennifer Potts" <jenpotts@shaw.ca>
To: <northern@antir.sca.org>; <h-costume@net.indra.com>;
<antir-costumers@antir.sca.org>
Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2004 6:45 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Searching for a Supplier....


> Greetings,
>
>
>
> I am from the Interior of BC and am looking for a supplier of Appleton or
> Paternayan Needlework wools.  I would prefer someone in Canada who does
mail
> order (in BC or at the Coast would make my year!).  I have a very
ambitious
> project I have almost completely passed the planning stages with, and am
> very looking forward to the practical work.  If anyone could help, please
> contact me off-list if you prefer.
>
>
>
> Thank you for your time.
>
>
>
> L. Giacinta Cocchetti
>
> jenpotts@shaw.ca
>
>
>
>
>
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From: "Lisa Sinervo" <Lisa-list@thrednedlestrete.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Thanks for all the Vintage Apron Responses
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They arrived just before Joanns 5 for 5 dollars pattern sale which had some
of the patterns mentioned!

Lisa Sinervo


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I think it's always a good idea to get swatches before ordering online, especially if matching a specific color is super-important

regarding matching colors to dye-lot numbers etc vs. relying on computer monitor renditions of colors --

most vendors (online or otherwise) of Appleton & other wools will send a swatch card -- some are a small # of colors for free or cheap, or sometimes you can get the entire rainbow for some $ (can't think of a specific example off the top of my head, but someone else mentioned www.ThreadneedleStreet.com in Issaquah, WA, which is where I've been in person)

same goes for some fabric vendors -- like www.fabricclub.com and www.silkconnection.com and www.hemptraders.com (off the top of my head).

and of course, regular old brick-and-mortar fabric stores will cut swatches for you for free (this is useful also if you or the store don't know the fabric content -- you can get a swatch then go home and do burn tests or whatever else to figure out what that bargain-table brocade is really made of)



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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Mar 25 12:14:51 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] yarn & fabric swatches
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On 3/25/04 8:51 AM, "pandoraf@verizon.net" <pandoraf@verizon.net> wrote:

> I think it's always a good idea to get swatches before ordering online,
> especially if matching a specific color is super-important
> 
> regarding matching colors to dye-lot numbers etc vs. relying on computer
> monitor renditions of colors --
> 
> most vendors (online or otherwise) of Appleton & other wools will send a
> swatch card -- some are a small # of colors for free or cheap, or sometimes
> you can get the entire rainbow for some $ (can't think of a specific example
> off the top of my head, but someone else mentioned www.ThreadneedleStreet.com
> in Issaquah, WA, which is where I've been in person)
> 
> same goes for some fabric vendors -- like www.fabricclub.com and
> www.silkconnection.com and www.hemptraders.com (off the top of my head).
> 
> and of course, regular old brick-and-mortar fabric stores will cut swatches
> for you for free (this is useful also if you or the store don't know the
> fabric content -- you can get a swatch then go home and do burn tests or
> whatever else to figure out what that bargain-table brocade is really made of)
> 
> 
Yes to all of the above. And, if you ask, many b-a-m stores will have a burn
kit behind the counter and will test for you. I've found that to be true in
several stores when I wasn't quite certain about the fabric content. They
were willing to test the fabric so that we both would know what it was.

LynnD

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Mar 25 12:29:08 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bathsheba and skirt ruffle [was Re: 4 pictures]
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In a message dated 3/25/2004 7:19:33 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
claudine_on_the_net@yahoo.com writes:

> http://www.getty.edu/art/collections/objects/oz112310.html
> 

Her ruffle looks sheer too.
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Mar 25 12:49:41 2004
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From: "Cindy Abel" <brujne@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Charles II Miniseries - Catherine of Braganza's hair?
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 11:48:14 -0600
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Bjarne: Check the amazon.uk website.  This may be available on DVD for
ordering. I know amazon.com and the A&E TV network store have a
U.S./Canadian DVD player compatible version available.

And yes, Charles II did reportedly say that "they have brought me a bat to
marry" when he first sighted Catherine in her native hairstyle and costume.

But unlike Henry VIII, he never did divorce Catherine or considered making
any one of his illegitimate children his heir.

Cindy Abel

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2004 9:33 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Charles II Miniseries - Catherine of Braganza's
hair?


Hi,
I am so unfortunate, that i cant se that film on my tv set here in Denmark.
I would have loved to se it.
This hairstyle was wide spread troughout Europe, included Denmark. I have
sen several portraits with this style. I dont think any wire is used, but
some hairpads.
The Academy of Historical Hairstyles, also has tryed this hairstyle with
succes.

Bjarne


----- Original Message -----
From: "A.Thurman" <athurman@cybergal.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2004 2:34 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Charles II Miniseries - Catherine of Braganza's hair?


> Can anyone speak to the accuracy of Catherine of Braganza's
extraordinarily
> wide hairdo when she is first introduced to Charles? I thought it looked
> completely invented, but then I found this picture of Maria Teresa of
Spain
> from the same time period, and she has something similar:
>
> http://www.artchive.com/artchive/V/velazquez/two_watches.jpg.html
>
> C. of B. was Portuguese; was this a Hispanic fashion of the times? If so,
> surely this is a wig supported by wire; I don't think they had Aqua Net
> then! Any idea how this style was created/maintained?
>
> Not only am I curious for myself, but my (non-costumer) sister is wigging
> (pun intended ;) ) over the seeming strangeness of the style.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Allison T.
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>


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Subject: [h-cost] Off topic:  men's jacket info
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Greetings list, 

I need to make some men's jackets for "movie usher" people.  These would be made in large size to fit whatever helpers are there (its a school thing).  Problem is, I don't know what to call that style?  What is a short jacket that overlaps called?  Bolero?  It does overlap in a double breasted button sort of thing doesn't it?  

Any help appreciated.

S. Kneeland 
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Mar 25 14:26:21 2004
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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References: <FOEDLIJMMAMODKMIIIMKCEKBDBAA.brujne@creighton.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Charles II Miniseries - Catherine of Braganza's hair?
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 20:25:16 +0100
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Dear Cindy,
Thanks a lot for your informations. I sertanly will order it then. It has
ben two long time since last they made a costume drama.
I am travelling to Bath next week to attend the Bath Ball.
And i shall go to the costume museum to se the exhibition they have about
Jane Austen Fashion and Films.
I long to se this film already!

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cindy Abel" <brujne@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2004 6:48 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Charles II Miniseries - Catherine of Braganza's hair?


> Bjarne: Check the amazon.uk website.  This may be available on DVD for
> ordering. I know amazon.com and the A&E TV network store have a
> U.S./Canadian DVD player compatible version available.
>
> And yes, Charles II did reportedly say that "they have brought me a bat to
> marry" when he first sighted Catherine in her native hairstyle and
costume.
>
> But unlike Henry VIII, he never did divorce Catherine or considered making
> any one of his illegitimate children his heir.
>
> Cindy Abel
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
> Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2004 9:33 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Charles II Miniseries - Catherine of Braganza's
> hair?
>
>
> Hi,
> I am so unfortunate, that i cant se that film on my tv set here in
Denmark.
> I would have loved to se it.
> This hairstyle was wide spread troughout Europe, included Denmark. I have
> sen several portraits with this style. I dont think any wire is used, but
> some hairpads.
> The Academy of Historical Hairstyles, also has tryed this hairstyle with
> succes.
>
> Bjarne
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "A.Thurman" <athurman@cybergal.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2004 2:34 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] Charles II Miniseries - Catherine of Braganza's hair?
>
>
> > Can anyone speak to the accuracy of Catherine of Braganza's
> extraordinarily
> > wide hairdo when she is first introduced to Charles? I thought it looked
> > completely invented, but then I found this picture of Maria Teresa of
> Spain
> > from the same time period, and she has something similar:
> >
> > http://www.artchive.com/artchive/V/velazquez/two_watches.jpg.html
> >
> > C. of B. was Portuguese; was this a Hispanic fashion of the times? If
so,
> > surely this is a wig supported by wire; I don't think they had Aqua Net
> > then! Any idea how this style was created/maintained?
> >
> > Not only am I curious for myself, but my (non-costumer) sister is
wigging
> > (pun intended ;) ) over the seeming strangeness of the style.
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> >
> > Allison T.
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Mar 25 14:31:03 2004
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Hello,
I was so fortunate to finally find some danish people who reenacts.
At a castle in Jutland called Gammel Estrup there is going to be a 1700 market on 26-27th of june. There shall be different craftsmen there. I have ben asked to sit there in my costume and either make embroidery or lace.
This is going to be such fun.
http://www.gammelestrup.dk/

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Mar 25 15:17:58 2004
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Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 14:20:46 -0500
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Off topic:  men's jacket info
From: ruthanne baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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You might take a look at FolkWear 133, Belgian Military Chef's Jacket, if
you don't mind buttonholes. I've used it for a bellhop costume.
Of course I also once made a bellhop costume by cropping and darting a red
blazer, replacing the buttons with shiny brass ones, and edging the lapel
and cuffs in black bias tape... Maybe that kind of thing would work for you?

Best wishes,
Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer



on 3/25/04 1:06 PM, Sidne Kneeland at skskaw@comcast.net wrote:

> Greetings list, 
> 
> I need to make some men's jackets for "movie usher" people.  These would be
> made in large size to fit whatever helpers are there (its a school thing).
> Problem is, I don't know what to call that style?  What is a short jacket that
> overlaps called?  Bolero?  It does overlap in a double breasted button sort of
> thing doesn't it?
> 
> Any help appreciated.
> 
> S. Kneeland
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: poodles
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For some reason poodle skirts came up in conversation the other day, and 
I discovered my husband had not realised that to be a poodle skirt it 
has to have a picture of a poodle on it!  I have absolutely no idea 
where he thought the term came from.  My mind is still boggling to think 
about it.

Jean


otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote
>And if she had a seme' of poodles on her heraldic sideless, she'd have
>oodles of poodles.:)
>
>(This is more low keyed then the origins of the French poodle)
>
>De
>-----Original Message-----
>If a medieval housewife had embroidered an image of said dogue onto the
>skirt of her kirtle, would that be the world's first Poodle Skirt?
>
><I couldn't help myself!>
>
>Katie
>
>At 02:31 AM 3/24/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>>My source is nothing more exciting than the thumbnail in the encyclopedia:
>>your list trumps mine fourteen ways to Sunday.  But do the pre-16 c.
>sources
>>actually call the dog a poodle?
>>While I come from a long line of dog people, we lean toward terriers-
>>Scotties and giant Schnauzers.  Dogs with opinions.  And Dobies.
>>Thanks for the offer of the research, but I've got too many irons in the
>>fire already and I can't afford to get sucked into another one.  It would
>be
>>too easy.  Besides, my German is a one-semester course in Engineering
>School
>>to learn to read abstracts, only abstracts.
>>BTW, have you seen this list of poodles in art:
>>http://www.poodlehistory.org/PZZGPV.HTM   Mostly late, but interesting
>>nonetheless.
>>                              -Helen/Aidan
>
>
>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Charles II Miniseries - Catherine of Braganza's hair?
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Bjarne:

I'm green with envy that you will be able to see the Jane Austen costume
exibition in Bath. Could you let us know if there are pamplettes, brochures,
or even a book connected with this exibit that those of us unable to go,
especially in the U.S.

Thanks

Cindy Abel


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Mar 25 15:54:25 2004
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Hans Holbein the Younger
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He's probably too old for you anyway...

>Oh no thank you, I'm already married. :)

>For 16th century costume fans : Hans Holbein the Younger: Painter at the
>Court of Henry VIII is now available.



        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Hi Cindy,
Off cause i shall do that, and let you know when i return again.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cindy Abel" <brujne@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2004 9:35 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Charles II Miniseries - Catherine of Braganza's hair?


>
> Bjarne:
>
> I'm green with envy that you will be able to see the Jane Austen costume
> exibition in Bath. Could you let us know if there are pamplettes,
brochures,
> or even a book connected with this exibit that those of us unable to go,
> especially in the U.S.
>
> Thanks
>
> Cindy Abel
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] event in Denmark
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26-27th of June, are these special dates historically?
I'd really like to know how this turns out. 
Catalina


 --- Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
wrote: > Hello,
> I was so fortunate to finally find some danish
> people who reenacts.
> At a castle in Jutland called Gammel Estrup there is
> going to be a 1700 market on 26-27th of june. There
> shall be different craftsmen there. I have ben asked
> to sit there in my costume and either make
> embroidery or lace.
> This is going to be such fun.
> http://www.gammelestrup.dk/
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> _______________________________________________
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=====
Catalina
Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit


	
	
		
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I browsed on http://www.silkconnection.com/
And noticed their natural colour silk knit. I wonder if i could use this for making silk stockings for mens wear, 18th century?
Natural colour, would that not be almost white, i dont mean shiny white, but dont you think it could be used for mens silk stockings?

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
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I wonder if this style is related to the extant (German?) headdress with all
the spangles?  (I cannot remember where I saw it)  The shape is very
similar...

Sg



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Kohler, now that you mention it

cyn

> I wonder if this style is related to the extant (German?) headdress with
all
> the spangles?  (I cannot remember where I saw it)  The shape is very
> similar...
>
> Sg
>
>


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] my dream costume
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Hi,
I told you before about the picture that made me want to become a costume designer!
The world is very strange. This picture is at the castle that i am going to join the market with this summer. 
So it is almost like a ring wich is finally closed. 
I had this picture send for me lately by a girl who also is going to be at the 1700 market. It was the first time i ever saw the picture in colour.
The picture she sended me was very small, but i have enlarged it and therefore it is not very sharp. You can se it here: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/gammelestrup.htm 
I think it would be very nice if i finally made this dress. When i first set my eyes on it, i desided i wanted to learn how to make such a dress. And in many ways this picture has ben a part of my life. Is it not strange?
I have got this idea, that i want to make some enquirys here and there, if there is a girl, not two big in size wich can have a narrow bodice and want to have such a dress. Then i want to make it for free, only materials has to be payed to me. Then i also want to borrow this dress for exhibition at this castle for 1 month before i send it to the owner.
I think it could be very nice, if i could make this dress and exhibit it under this picture!
I dont think it would be difficult to find material that matches this dress. Very pale grey is it taffeta? patterned.
I browsed silk connection and they have some fabric wich looks very similar. It is silk jacquard, but would that be as stiff as the material in the picture?
Any suggestions any of you! Please let me hear your oppinion.

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Charles II Miniseries - Catherine of Braganza'shair?
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Hi Saragrace,
I remember that picture two. But this is from a time before Christ isnt it?

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cyn Bucheger" <cbucheger@paclp.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2004 10:52 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Charles II Miniseries - Catherine of Braganza'shair?


> Kohler, now that you mention it
>
> cyn
>
> > I wonder if this style is related to the extant (German?) headdress with
> all
> > the spangles?  (I cannot remember where I saw it)  The shape is very
> > similar...
> >
> > Sg
> >
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk knit
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Hi Bjarne,

     It depends on how picky you are!  I don't see a photo of a swatch or how 
many stitches per inch.  Their silk knit may be finer than what I see in 
antique stockings.  Jersey usually means it's a plain knit, which is good.  
Many modern knits are 1/1 ribs, which don't read as ribs but the fabric looks 
the same on one side as the other.  It's not what was used for 18thC stockings.

     18thC stocking fabric was shiny, and I don't know if this fabric is or 
not.  It is probably a lot stretchier than 18thC knits.  That's what I've found 
when looking at silk knits.

     You can't bleach silk (it destroys the fabric), but there are color 
removers that will work.  Natural may be white enough.  If you're going for an 
era where color stockings are fashionable (early to mid-century), you should be 
able to dye it.

     Kannik's Korner has a pattern that can be used with knit fabric to make 
stockings.  The pattern has low gussets.  You can embroider to get the look of 
higher gussets (some knits had a faux gusset in the design) or alter the 
pattern for higher gussets.

     Embellishment will depend on the era.  Plating is where a second thread 
was knit on top of the main color to make the design.  Just enough to show the 
second color, not enough to make it a raised area.  You can fake this with 
duplicate embroidery.  Plating went out of style about the middle of the 
century.

     Some stockings have metallic embroidery.  Often a motif was stitched on 
vellum, stitched onto the stocking, and more embroidery was added.  Others have 
multicolor silk embroidery.

     Chevening may have developed in 1783, a technique of taking a horizontal 
stitch across 1 to 5 knit stitches to make a pattern.  Sometimes it's the same 
color as the stocking and resembles purl stitches.

     If you embroider them, we want to see pictures!

     -Carol 


> I browsed on http://www.silkconnection.com/
> And noticed their natural colour silk knit. I wonder if i could use this for making silk stockings for mens wear, 18th century?
> Natural colour, would that not be almost white, i dont mean shiny white, but dont you think it could be used for mens silk stockings?
> 
> Bjarne

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wonderful site for vintage costume images
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>http://thefrock.com
>
>This site actually sells historic costume (from the 1860s through the 
>1950s or
>so.  But not just ordinary historic costume.  These items include couture and
>one-of-a-kind historic items.  No, I can't afford the price tags on them, but
>it's wonderful eye candy.  :-)

These people often stick a skirt with a bodice from a different decade, so 
be careful of what you're looking at vs. what it's described as.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wonderful site for vintage costume images
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In a message dated 3/25/2004 5:22:24 PM Eastern Standard Time, kayta@frys.com 
writes:

> These people often stick a skirt with a bodice from a different decade, so 
> be careful of what you're looking at vs. what it's described as.
> 

Really? Well, that explains the 1890s bodice with the 1880s skirt I saw 
there.

I wrote them to inform them that they had a definitely 1870s gown labeled 
1860s. Will they care?
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] silk knit
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     One other very important thing - if you do decide to embellish the 
stockings, remember that it goes on BOTH sides of the ankle.  I have not yet 
seen a pair of original 18thC stockings that are clocked on only one side.

     -Carol


> > I browsed on http://www.silkconnection.com/
> > And noticed their natural colour silk knit. I wonder if i could use this for making silk stockings for mens wear, 18th century?
> > Natural colour, would that not be almost white, i dont mean shiny white, 
but dont you think it could be used for mens silk stockings?

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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] my dream costume
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 17:10:22 -0700
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I am sure you will find a taker on your offer.  I wonder if the silk you
speak of is like one of mine.  It is very soft and drapy, but could be
ironed to some interfacing to stiffen it up.  Or alternatively you could
line it with organza to give it body...

Sg



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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wonderful site for vintage costume images
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On Thursday 25 March 2004 05:20 pm, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> >http://thefrock.com
> >
> >This site actually sells historic costume (from the 1860s through the
> >1950s or
> >so.  But not just ordinary historic costume.  These items include couture
> > and one-of-a-kind historic items.  No, I can't afford the price tags on
> > them, but it's wonderful eye candy.  :-)
>
> These people often stick a skirt with a bodice from a different decade, so
> be careful of what you're looking at vs. what it's described as.

Thanks for the warning.  THough the outerwear (a blue velvet cape described as 
1860s; a red leather riding coat described as 1880s) was actually more 
interesting than the dresses shown.  On the other hand, several of the more 
expensive Victorian dresses, if they measure as described, would fit me; 
hence my comment.  :-)


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Anything's within walking distance if you have the time." -Steven Wright
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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] silk knit
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 19:08:39 -0700
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I have used this silk to make doll stockings.  I am sure it will make mens
stockings well, but they will probably have to be tied up.  (I am not sure
what they were doing then-garters still?  I don't know how much wear and
tear it would take...it isn't that stretchy.

Sg



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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bathsheba and skirt ruffle [was Re: 4 pictures]
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I think its bath water or shadow and not  sheer fabric.

De

-----Original Message-----

> http://www.getty.edu/art/collections/objects/oz112310.html
> 

Her ruffle looks sheer too.

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Subject: [h-cost] Sheer ruffle  was: Bathsheba and skirt ruffle 
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Sorry I thought we were still talking about the Bathsheba picture.
I wish there was a bigger Getty picture. It looks like a sheer ruffle over
the lower section of the dress but it could be dirt on the hem.

De

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
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Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2004 11:21 AM
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bathsheba and skirt ruffle [was Re: 4 pictures]


In a message dated 3/25/2004 7:19:33 AM Eastern Standard Time,
claudine_on_the_net@yahoo.com writes:

> http://www.getty.edu/art/collections/objects/oz112310.html
>

Her ruffle looks sheer too.
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Mar 26 01:23:18 2004
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From: Tania Gruning <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] my dream costume
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Hi Bjarne.
If not for the fact that i am on health related leave from work and have absolutely no money, then i would love to. I even live in Denmark, and you have met me, so you could do fittings if needed.
I do admire all your work, and i wish i could afford to go to see the market.
Tania

Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
Hi,
I told you before about the picture that made me want to become a costume designer!
The world is very strange. This picture is at the castle that i am going to join the market with this summer. 
So it is almost like a ring wich is finally closed. 
I had this picture send for me lately by a girl who also is going to be at the 1700 market. It was the first time i ever saw the picture in colour.
The picture she sended me was very small, but i have enlarged it and therefore it is not very sharp. You can se it here: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/gammelestrup.htm 
I think it would be very nice if i finally made this dress. When i first set my eyes on it, i desided i wanted to learn how to make such a dress. And in many ways this picture has ben a part of my life. Is it not strange?
I have got this idea, that i want to make some enquirys here and there, if there is a girl, not two big in size wich can have a narrow bodice and want to have such a dress. Then i want to make it for free, only materials has to be payed to me. Then i also want to borrow this dress for exhibition at this castle for 1 month before i send it to the owner.
I think it could be very nice, if i could make this dress and exhibit it under this picture!
I dont think it would be difficult to find material that matches this dress. Very pale grey is it taffeta? patterned.
I browsed silk connection and they have some fabric wich looks very similar. It is silk jacquard, but would that be as stiff as the material in the picture?
Any suggestions any of you! Please let me hear your oppinion.

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Sheer ruffle  was: Bathsheba and skirt ruffle 
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 08:02:38 -0700
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Okay, now I see the confusion.  Where is the Bathsheba picture?  Thanks,
Sg

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of otsisto
> Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2004 10:33 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] Sheer ruffle was: Bathsheba and skirt ruffle
> 
> Sorry I thought we were still talking about the Bathsheba picture.
> I wish there was a bigger Getty picture. It looks like a sheer ruffle over
> the lower section of the dress but it could be dirt on the hem.
> 
> De


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Mar 26 10:40:41 2004
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Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 10:33:07 -0500
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hand weaving tunics
From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I'm curious about what kind of loom you're talking about here -- if you have
separate heddles and reed, two threads per dent won't make basket-weave at
all. Basket-weave is a function of the *heddles*. I've done lots of stuff
where a thread from the first harness and a thread from the second harness
both went through a single dent in the reed -- I do a lot of 24 epi in a
12-dent reed. At present I've got something set up at 30 epi in a 12 dent
reed -- which is 3 threads in one dent and 2 in the next, if I'm remembering
correctly. I'm weaving an overshot pattern with it -- with areas of plain
tabby, They all weave fine. You just have to make sure you don't cross
threads between the heddle and the reed -- and, of course, that you've got
enough heddles for the sett you want.

IF you are talking about a rigid-heddle arrangement instead, you can add
more rigid heddles to get a closer sett. I'm doing this on a tape-loom I
have. If your set-up allows you to make a shed by pushing harnesses DOWN as
well as UP, you can make any pattern you could on a four-harness loom with
three rigid heddles (the fourth shed is achieved with all three rigid
heddles down.) I have three 12-dent rigid heddles, and this gives me the
capacity to weave up to 48 epi (in tabby, using all three rigid heddles up
as one shed, and down as the second shed. For twills, where I only want 1/4
of the threads on the "down" shed, it's only 24 epi, I think.) Anyway if
your issue is a rigid heddle, you can add rigid heddles until you get the
sett you want. You'll still want just one thread per heddle-eye, but there
will be multiple threads in the slots between heddle-eyes. You can still use
the front one as a beater -- the multiple threads that go in the slots
between heddles will even themselves out.

As Carol wrote, you REALLY don't want to try to draw in to the thread count
you want, as there are all kinds of unwanted consequences, and it gets quite
nuisance-y to weave.

Hope this helps. Good luck with the project.
Lauren
> 
>> Unfortunately, putting two threads per dent won't help much.  You
>> end up with a half-basketweave that will also be fairly stiff and
>> thick if firmly woven.  If you use a fine thread at one thread per
>> dent and weave it so that you end up with 40+ threads per inch in
>> the web (which will make it *much* narrower than the width of the
>> reed), you might be able to come up with a fabric with decent
>> draping qualities.  Let us know how it works.
>> Joan
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] 4 pictures
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 Bathsheba
 http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/m/memling/3mature2/25nobath.jpg

 Have a look at the servant woman's hem. Almost looks like a ruffle.


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Mar 26 10:49:31 2004
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Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 10:39:31 -0500
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kenmore 1750
From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Definitely contact Sears. The trouble with Kenmore appliances -- and my
house is littered with them, thanks to my parents -- is that Sears would use
whatever manufacturer gave them a good deal that year. Only Sears knows for
sure!

Check the instruction book carefully for whether it needs a cam for zigzag
-- as others wrote, on some Kenmores (I have the weird green one from 1979,
too) it's built-in. If you do need to go cam-hunting, try Sears first, and
then look into some of the sewing-machine e-lists -- folks often have good
ideas on tracking down parts.

Good luck!
Lauren

> From: General <general@demaslaw.com>
> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2004 22:39:16 -0800
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] Kenmore 1750
> 
> I bought a Kenmore 1750 in a cabinet at a yard sale for $60.00. It has
> all metal parts, the complete instructional book, and all the cams
> including the buttonhole cams except for one; a zigzag stitch. I have
> two questions. Who made the Kenmore and where can I get the missing cam?
> 
> LD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Mar 26 11:22:57 2004
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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bathsheba and skirt ruffle [was Re: 4 pictures]
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 08:01:10 -0700
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I have a full sized poster of the picture and saw it at the Getty.  What is
the question...I missed the original post.

>I think its bath water or shadow and not  sheer fabric.

[Sg]  Bathwater or shadow?? Maybe we are not looking at the same picture.
Where's the bathwater?  Both women have very sheer head pieces on.  I see
what you mean that the ruffle might be sheer, but much less so than the
headdresses.

 
> I also find the gigantic pins holding Bertha's sleeves to be
> interesting. I assume they weren't actually that big, but are painted
> that big so that the viewer knows they're there.

[Sg]  What huge pins?  I don't even see any pins on her sleeves.  (I am
assuming you mean the woman in the center on the bench?) It also seems like
rather odd logic to me.  If they did this on a regular basis, you would see
huge buttons, jewelry etc.  

Very curious now!
Sg

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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Sequined headdress shaped like Catherine of Braganza'shair
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Cyn was right, it is in Kohler (page 255 in my old edition).  Figure 312,
captioned "Cap made of Gold Sequins, as worn in the imperial cities."  It is
in the German section and dated 1600.


> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
> Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2004 3:10 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Charles II Miniseries - Catherine of Braganza'shair?
> 
> Hi Saragrace,
> I remember that picture two. But this is from a time before Christ isnt
it?
> 
> Bjarne


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Mar 26 15:34:36 2004
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Catalina=20Saravia=20Quicedo?= <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Merchant from Spain
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  Apparently there is a gentleman tailor from Spain
who sets up shop at Gulf War (SCA). I have been told
his name is Jose, but no one seems to remember
anything else except all the garb he makes is Spanish.
Has anyone heard of him or know if he has a website?


Thanks,
Catalina

=====
Catalina
Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit


	
	
		
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Are you possibly talking of Jose of Desert Torch ?   He makes the most
awesome clothing that looks like it walks right out of the paintings.   Yes
he does have a web site if this is the person you want.  Go to
www.deserttorch.com/

Diane

----- Original Message -----
From: "Catalina Saravia Quicedo" <ladyforbeys@yahoo.com>
To: <Medieval_Spain@yahoogroups.com>
Cc: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, March 26, 2004 1:50 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Merchant from Spain


>   Apparently there is a gentleman tailor from Spain
> who sets up shop at Gulf War (SCA). I have been told
> his name is Jose, but no one seems to remember
> anything else except all the garb he makes is Spanish.
> Has anyone heard of him or know if he has a website?
>
>
> Thanks,
> Catalina
>
> =====
> Catalina
> Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit
>
>
>
>
>
> ___________________________________________________________
> WIN FREE WORLDWIDE FLIGHTS - nominate a cafe in the Yahoo! Mail Internet
Cafe Awards  www.yahoo.co.uk/internetcafes
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Merchant from Spain
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>   Apparently there is a gentleman tailor from Spain
> who sets up shop at Gulf War (SCA). I have been told
> his name is Jose, but no one seems to remember
> anything else except all the garb he makes is Spanish.
> Has anyone heard of him or know if he has a website?

Jose is great! He owns Desert Torch Tailoring and Tenting. His 
website is www.deserttorch.com. 

You can also email him at owners@deserttorch.com. (That's not his 
personal one, but his business one. I wouldn't give out his private 
one but I know he gives out the other one pretty freely.)

His name is really Mathew Gnagy but he does Alcega period tailoring. 
He's got a system for drafting the Alcega doublet that is actually 
from studying Alcega (the written and pictoral parts) as opposed to 
other systems which use 19th Century tailoring techniques to produce 
the look of Alcega. (He drafted a doublet for me at Estrella to show 
me how his new system works. I can't wait until it is next in the 
"projects to do" line!)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Merchant from Spain
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Thanks Kat for sharing your story and to you and Diane for sharing the link.

oh, wow! I wish I had seen his photos before I began working on my 
husband's doublet. This is some of the best men's tailoring I have seen 
yet. I only wish the photos were larger.

I have been using Trump's Doublet and Trunkhose, and that has been helpful, 
but I need the real works. My husband's doublet came out ok, but I couldn't 
follow Trump's method of drafting a doublet, as he bases his measurements 
on odd things, like the cuff length of the sleeve is based on the back 
width of the body measurement. What does one have to do with the other? And 
as my husband is plus sized, the theorectical measurements of Trumps just 
did not come close to the actual measurements. So I ended up doing modern 
methods of drafting, and then making the front peascod curve look like the 
Alcega lines. I am working on the sleeves and trunkhose now.

Someday I gotta get my hands on that Alcega book!

Kimiko



At 02:19 PM 3/26/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>Jose is great! He owns Desert Torch Tailoring and Tenting. His
>website is www.deserttorch.com.
>
><<snip>>
>
>His name is really Mathew Gnagy but he does Alcega period tailoring.
>He's got a system for drafting the Alcega doublet that is actually
>from studying Alcega (the written and pictoral parts) as opposed to
>other systems which use 19th Century tailoring techniques to produce
>the look of Alcega. (He drafted a doublet for me at Estrella to show
>me how his new system works. I can't wait until it is next in the
>"projects to do" line!)
>
>Kat
><kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Subject: [h-cost] Which pic?  was: Bathsheba and skirt ruffle 
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The Memling picture of Bathsheba, has her getting out of what appears to be
a bath not a bed. There appears to be water puddles on the floor.
Someone switched to another picture of a woman with a ruffle and did not
change the subject heading which confused me as I thought they were still
commenting on the Memling ruffle.

De

-----Original Message-----

I have a full sized poster of the picture and saw it at the Getty.  What is
the question...I missed the original post.

>I think its bath water or shadow and not  sheer fabric.

[Sg]  Bathwater or shadow?? Maybe we are not looking at the same picture.
Where's the bathwater?  Both women have very sheer head pieces on.  I see
what you mean that the ruffle might be sheer, but much less so than the
headdresses.


> I also find the gigantic pins holding Bertha's sleeves to be
> interesting. I assume they weren't actually that big, but are painted
> that big so that the viewer knows they're there.

[Sg]  What huge pins?  I don't even see any pins on her sleeves.  (I am
assuming you mean the woman in the center on the bench?) It also seems like
rather odd logic to me.  If they did this on a regular basis, you would see
huge buttons, jewelry etc.

Very curious now!
Sg

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I've seen his off-the-rack clothes at Pennsic and they are beautiful, if somewhat expensive.  However, there were many out of "unknown" but probably at least partly synthetic fabric (and in the heat of afternoon shopping at Pennsic, that's a detail you really pay attention to.)  Even worse, he never pre-washes his fabric, which means everything has to be dry-cleaned.  Perhaps if you ordered something custom, you could supply your own fabric.

Janet
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> I have been using Trump's Doublet and Trunkhose, and that has been
> helpful, but I need the real works. My husband's doublet came out ok,
> but I couldn't follow Trump's method of drafting a doublet, as he
> bases his measurements on odd things, like the cuff length of the
> sleeve is based on the back width of the body measurement. What does
> one have to do with the other?

Bodies tend to be in certain ranges based on proportion. All the 
professional methods from Alcega and through to the present 
(including Davis and all the 19th C tailoring manuals) are based on 
this. That's why they're used so much in professional tailoring.

 And as my husband is plus sized, the
> theorectical measurements of Trumps just did not come close to the
> actual measurements. So I ended up doing modern methods of drafting,
> and then making the front peascod curve look like the Alcega lines. I
> am working on the sleeves and trunkhose now.

Whenever you do a block off of theoreticals, it has to have a final 
fitting for the final garment. And that is not done in the "pretty 
fabric" but in a fitting garment. (In women's case it's often called 
a toile.)

However, there are garments which are tailored specifically for the 
"plus size" person as even they have proportions. (Alcega so 
elegantly puts it in ways like "kirtle for a fat woman". But it 
wasn't meant for the client to see.)

> Someday I gotta get my hands on that Alcega book!

It's a good one. And if you want to learn about period tailoring, I 
feel that one should have some knowledge of how they work in many 
periods (even ones you don't plan to emulate. Which is how I have 
several 19th C tailoring system books in my library although 16th C 
is really where my heart is when it comes to tailoring.)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Subject: [h-cost] Subcribe help
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Greetings,

   My other half wants to join the mailing list, but I can't recall how 
to subscribe.   I did try to use the link at the bottom of the page, 
 but alas nothing happend.  Help please?

Roscelin


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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Merchant from Spain
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 21:16:05 -0700
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Lord Jose is a fine fellow.  He is constantly looking for original and 'new'
sources for inspiration.   Some of his current stuff is German from the
tailor's book on Drea's site.   His 'off the rack clothing'  is only one of
the ways he makes his living (he does film an theater as well) and is
acutely aware of its limitation.  In my humble opinion he is completely
justified in his 'lack' of pre-washing fabrics.  You simply cannot expect a
tailored garment to withstand a normal washing routine.  It would be like
putting your husband's tux in the wash machine.  

Sg

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar 27 00:54:59 2004
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Merchant from Spain
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Hi Kat,

Thanks so much for your insights into the older tailoring methods. Not 
having Alcega's book, I wasn't sure where Trump was pulling his info from, 
and I don't recall if he actually explains where he gets his methods.

At 05:12 PM 3/26/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>
><<snip>>
>Bodies tend to be in certain ranges based on proportion. All the
>professional methods from Alcega and through to the present
>(including Davis and all the 19th C tailoring manuals) are based on
>this. That's why they're used so much in professional tailoring.

I can understand the proportions, but why not use actual measurements if 
they are more applicable? Like in the wrist measurement.

>Whenever you do a block off of theoreticals, it has to have a final
>fitting for the final garment. And that is not done in the "pretty
>fabric" but in a fitting garment. (In women's case it's often called
>a toile.)

I always do a toile, or mockup, or whatever one prefers to call it, 
especially for something as fitted as a doublet. And I am glad I did on 
this one, because plus sized people have different curves than theoretical 
models.

>However, there are garments which are tailored specifically for the
>"plus size" person as even they have proportions. (Alcega so
>elegantly puts it in ways like "kirtle for a fat woman". But it
>wasn't meant for the client to see.)

Ah, this is what I want to see, if he has any garment patterns for plus 
sized men. I had heard about the "kirtle for a fat woman", which I would 
love to try out on myself.

>It's a good one. And if you want to learn about period tailoring, I
>feel that one should have some knowledge of how they work in many
>periods (even ones you don't plan to emulate. Which is how I have
>several 19th C tailoring system books in my library although 16th C
>is really where my heart is when it comes to tailoring.)

I didn't want to get into men's tailoring, however I have of late had more 
men ask for my services than women, and non-normal shaped men at that (one 
of super small size, a military man with extra large chest, and my 
"prosperous" hubby).


>Kat
><kat@redtrollforge.com>


Thanks again,

Kimiko


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At 09:16 PM 3/26/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>Lord Jose is a fine fellow.  He is constantly looking for original and 'new'
>sources for inspiration.   Some of his current stuff is German from the
>tailor's book on Drea's site.   His 'off the rack clothing'  is only one of
>the ways he makes his living (he does film an theater as well) and is
>acutely aware of its limitation.  In my humble opinion he is completely
>justified in his 'lack' of pre-washing fabrics.  You simply cannot expect a
>tailored garment to withstand a normal washing routine.  It would be like
>putting your husband's tux in the wash machine.
>
>Sg


While I can understand not wanting to put a tailored garment into the wash 
after it is created (I am feeling that way about my hubby's doublet), I 
still would want to wash the materials first, if possible, to remove the 
funny stuff they put into the materials or to preshrink the materials. But 
then, the doublet is cotton velveteen and a shantung silk, and I know that 
if I didn't prewash both, something would happen and it would end up 
shrinking on me anyway.

Kimiko


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Hi Stevie,
It is a smame that Danielle could not get a ticket for the dansing lessons. She also has told me that she is waiting for some boning to arrive from Canada. I thoaght she had her costume finished, but she need to make the stays. Could she not wear the dress without one, and just use a push up bra?
Anyway how are you getting along with your pannier dress? I am so excited to se you. I suggested Danielle, that she could have my dansing lesson ticket, but would you be very disapointed about that? As for me i would not mind, and it would be such a shame for Danielle, if she could not participate in the dansing.
What do you suggest?
Hope you are ok, i really am looking forwards to this................

Bjarne 





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
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Ooh my, i am so sorry. This was ment for Stevie, and not for the list. 
Please forgive me.

Bjarne

Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
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Hello,
I just wondered if any of you could explain something for me.
It is about cut of womens clothes page 119. The coronation Robe of Louisa Ulrika.  belive it was Janet Arnold who made this pattern. The pannier on top what is the first pattern. To me it looks like a narrow strip of material, but i am not sure. It should be joined to c and d. What are the small strips that goes up, is it to show that it had tape ties inside to keep the oval shape?
There is absolutely no explanations to this. Another thing i think the bias cut of the front bodice in the pannier looks much two big at D.
Any help anyone=

Bjarne  





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www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
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Subject: [h-cost] Box loom
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Hi,

I am looking for pictures/paintings of 14th century or earlier box looms
for band weaving.
I have seen at least one painting with a box loom but I can't find it
anymore and I don't know from wat period it was.
A friend of mine wants to make one for reanactment but she wants proof
that they had box looms.

Greetings,
          Deredere




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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Merchant from Spain
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SG wrote:
>  In my humble opinion
> he is completely justified in his 'lack' of pre-washing fabrics.  You
> simply cannot expect a tailored garment to withstand a normal washing
> routine.  It would be like putting your husband's tux in the wash
> machine.  

He often uses some fabrics which do not do well with machine washing. 
They start being distorted when they get that sort of agitation. 
(Beautiful brocades, for instance.) 

What I was always told to do is to "pretreat" the fabric in the same 
way that you are going to launder it after the garment is made. This 
gets out the sizing and pesticides they use on the fabrics, but 
doesn't damage the fabric.

And that includes dry cleaning it before I make the garment. And if 
the dry cleaner tells you "you don't need to do that because dry 
cleaning doesn't shrink the fabric" then find a different dry 
cleaner. That one doesn't know enough about fabrics. (Dry cleaning 
*does* shrink the fabric. It just does it at a slower rate than 
washing it.)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Subject: [h-cost] Period tailoring techniques, was: Re:Merchant from Spain
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> Thanks so much for your insights into the older tailoring methods. Not
> having Alcega's book, I wasn't sure where Trump was pulling his info
> from, and I don't recall if he actually explains where he gets his
> methods.

I don't know if he does explain them in print. I've taken several 
workshops from him (including a doublet workshop) and was his 
"driver" when he was in town for those. So, I was just lucky enough 
to talk with him about things of that sort. Plus, Jose did a good 
portion of his training in the St. Louis Opera where Bob is a draper, 
so he has even more insights into how it was developed. Jose and I 
are buddies so whenever I'm at an event where he is we end up talking 
tailoring a lot. (And since we both know Bob, we have a common 
experience.)

> >Bodies tend to be in certain ranges based on proportion. All the
> >professional methods from Alcega and through to the present
> >(including Davis and all the 19th C tailoring manuals) are based on
> >this. That's why they're used so much in professional tailoring.
> 
> I can understand the proportions, but why not use actual measurements
> if they are more applicable? Like in the wrist measurement.

But you don't always have those measurements. In period they often 
times didn't take them even. I can't tell you how many times I've 
been glad I had a bust measurement and a back length measurement when 
I've sewn for someone who wasn't going to be present except for (if 
I'm lucky) a "day of the event" fitting. You're lucky in that the 
person you're sewing for is there to be measured. I've often had to 
make things for people who lived 500 miles or more away.

> I always do a toile, or mockup, or whatever one prefers to call it,
> especially for something as fitted as a doublet. And I am glad I did
> on this one, because plus sized people have different curves than
> theoretical models.

They certainly do!

> >It's a good one. And if you want to learn about period tailoring, I
> >feel that one should have some knowledge of how they work in many
> >periods (even ones you don't plan to emulate. Which is how I have
> >several 19th C tailoring system books in my library although 16th C
> >is really where my heart is when it comes to tailoring.)
> 
> I didn't want to get into men's tailoring, however I have of late had
> more men ask for my services than women, and non-normal shaped men at
> that (one of super small size, a military man with extra large chest,
> and my "prosperous" hubby).

A lot of the tailoring methods will work for either a man or a woman. 
I've made doublets for myself and other women using Bob's book. And 
Jose drafted my pattern from the Alcega doublet study, not a 
specifically woman's pattern. (There are some differences, but they 
are remarkably minor considering the mammaries on women! At least for 
the 16th C. For later time periods, it's often a different story but 
it depends on the garment itself. A women's bodice even in the 16th C 
is cut different from a woman's doublet or a coat, which are more 
like the men's.)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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> I have got this idea, that i want to make some enquirys here and there, if
there is a girl, not two big in size wich can have a narrow bodice and want
to have such a dress. Then i want to make it for free, only materials has to
be payed to me. Then i also want to borrow this dress for exhibition at this
castle for 1 month before i send it to the owner.

Well, I'm very much *not* such a girl, larger than I want to be, and shaped
completely wrong for such a thing.  *But*, I have the financial means and
interest to own such a dress...you could make it in any size you want to,
I'd pay for it, you could display it wherever you want to, and I'd get a
line on the exhibit card...would that work for you?

Pam Dotson
Everett, WA  USA


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From: Sylvia <sylvia@ntw.net>
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I  don't know if any of you are experts on 1920s clothing, but I have a
vintage dress from that decade with metallic embroidery on it that I'm
wondering about both what the metallic threads would be made out of and what
the value of the dress is.  I would like to sell it but I'm just not sure of
its worth.

I don't know if we are allowed to post attachments on this list.  If so, I
will send photos.  If not, is there another way to post pictures?

Sylrog

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From: "kim baird" <kbaird@cableone.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1920s dress question
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2004 17:25:32 -0600
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As to sale price, look at eBay and see what people are getting there. Go
to this page:
http://clothing.listings.ebay.com/Vintage_Womens-Clothing_W0QQfromZR4QQs
acategoryZ14071QQsocmdZListingItemList
And put 1920's in the search box.

Kim



-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Sylvia
Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2004 4:57 PM
To: h-costume@net.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] 1920s dress question


I  don't know if any of you are experts on 1920s clothing, but I have a
vintage dress from that decade with metallic embroidery on it that I'm
wondering about both what the metallic threads would be made out of and
what the value of the dress is.  I would like to sell it but I'm just
not sure of its worth.

I don't know if we are allowed to post attachments on this list.  If so,
I will send photos.  If not, is there another way to post pictures?

Sylrog

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar 27 19:23:10 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1920s dress question
From: Sylvia <sylvia@ntw.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I have looked at what other dresses are getting on ebay.  My concern was
because of the metallic embroidery.  I was wondering if it could possibly be
gold.  I was hoping someone might know if real gold would have been used at
this time.  My guess is no but if it would be, I wouldnt want to sell the
dress for as cheap as people seem to want to pay on ebay.

> From: "kim baird" <kbaird@cableone.net>
> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2004 17:25:32 -0600
> To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1920s dress question
> 
> As to sale price, look at eBay and see what people are getting there. Go
> to this page:
> http://clothing.listings.ebay.com/Vintage_Womens-Clothing_W0QQfromZR4QQs
> acategoryZ14071QQsocmdZListingItemList
> And put 1920's in the search box.
> 
> Kim
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
> On Behalf Of Sylvia
> Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2004 4:57 PM
> To: h-costume@net.indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] 1920s dress question
> 
> 
> I  don't know if any of you are experts on 1920s clothing, but I have a
> vintage dress from that decade with metallic embroidery on it that I'm
> wondering about both what the metallic threads would be made out of and
> what the value of the dress is.  I would like to sell it but I'm just
> not sure of its worth.
> 
> I don't know if we are allowed to post attachments on this list.  If so,
> I will send photos.  If not, is there another way to post pictures?
> 
> Sylrog
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 
> _______________________________________________
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> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar 27 20:09:16 2004
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Is your dress made of a net-like textile with metal strips folded to the 
inside?  Or is it a woven fabric with needle-stitched metal threads?

I'm having trouble picturing what it is you might have.

Pricing the garment also depends on condition for something from the '20's.

Theresa Eacker

Sylvia wrote:
> I have looked at what other dresses are getting on ebay.  My concern was
> because of the metallic embroidery.  I was wondering if it could possibly be
> gold.  I was hoping someone might know if real gold would have been used at
> this time.  My guess is no but if it would be, I wouldnt want to sell the
> dress for as cheap as people seem to want to pay on ebay.
>

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Kim,

If you are talking about beaded dresses like this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2899412465&category=48560
except in metallic beads/threads they are worth the $100 starting point.
Some things to look for on these beaded or embroidered dresses on chiffon is
how well is the chiffon holding up.  Many times the chiffon gives or rips
from the weight of the embellishments in vintage 1920s.  It amazes me when
you find a good piece that holds up well over time.  So if you have one in
good condition, make sure to point that out and show enlargements.  Another
thing to look for is it the metal embroidery has turned or not.  I have seen
many of these dresses where the metal embroidery or sequins have turned.  If
yours has not turned, it is worth more.  Take enlargements to show it on
your auction.

I would be really careful of saying something is a gold or silver thread
without an expert or appraiser to back it up the claim.  You can get into
trouble quickly if you say something is and it turns out not to be.  Instead
of saying the embroidery is made of gold, say it is gold colored with a
metallic sheen.  Be honest and state that you are unsure if the thread is
actually gold metal or not.

BTW, I would show better enlargement than they one that eBay offers for
multiple images.  I know other dealers use another service to show nice
enlargements.  If I wanted to purchase something for $100+, I would want to
see really good closeups  of the dress.  The one dealer who is showing a
mannequin in front of a full length mirror is a nice presentation of the
product.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Merchant from Spain
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Jose is a hoot :)!  I think he lurks on here occasionally but may still
be getting back from Gulf Wars.

His mundane side also worked with Bob Trump in theater in St Louis for
awhile and he has continued on with his own interpurtations of Alecga. 
Do drop him an email Kimiko, he might be able to help you with some of
the measurement problems.  He and his partner (and a cat or two) usually
make it to the Lilies War in Calontir in June if anyone wants to catch
him before Pennsic.

Catherine
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Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2004 18:25:55 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1920s dress question
From: Sylvia <sylvia@ntw.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I have photos.  Can I send them to the list as attachments?

> From: Theresa Eacker <theresa@misc.com>
> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2004 17:00:03 -0800
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1920s dress question
> 
> Is your dress made of a net-like textile with metal strips folded to the
> inside?  Or is it a woven fabric with needle-stitched metal threads?
> 
> I'm having trouble picturing what it is you might have.
> 
> Pricing the garment also depends on condition for something from the '20's.
> 
> Theresa Eacker
> 
> Sylvia wrote:
>> I have looked at what other dresses are getting on ebay.  My concern was
>> because of the metallic embroidery.  I was wondering if it could possibly be
>> gold.  I was hoping someone might know if real gold would have been used at
>> this time.  My guess is no but if it would be, I wouldnt want to sell the
>> dress for as cheap as people seem to want to pay on ebay.
>> 
> 
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I don't know if attachments are allowed on this list. Can you post a 
link instead, if you have your own website???  Now I'm getting out of my 
depth (which is at the shallowest end of the pool!!).

Sorry for creating problems,

Theresa Eacker

Sylvia wrote:
> I have photos.  Can I send them to the list as attachments?
> 

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Theresa,

Yes, you can post links.  I can't wait to see the dress.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Period tailoring techniques, was: Re:Merchant from Spain
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At 11:02 AM 3/27/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>A lot of the tailoring methods will work for either a man or a woman.
>I've made doublets for myself and other women using Bob's book. And
>Jose drafted my pattern from the Alcega doublet study, not a
>specifically woman's pattern. (There are some differences, but they
>are remarkably minor considering the mammaries on women! At least for
>the 16th C. For later time periods, it's often a different story but
>it depends on the garment itself. A women's bodice even in the 16th C
>is cut different from a woman's doublet or a coat, which are more
>like the men's.)
>
>Kat


Thanks Kat, this is good to know. I have fallen for a doublet design for 
myself, and was hoping I could adjust things for my own shape. Would you 
happen to know what those minor differences are?

Kimiko


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At 07:40 PM 3/27/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>Do drop him an email Kimiko, he might be able to help you with some of
>the measurement problems.  He and his partner (and a cat or two) usually
>make it to the Lilies War in Calontir in June if anyone wants to catch
>him before Pennsic.
>
>Catherine


Thanks Catherine,

I just might drop him an email, as I have found his work to be 
inspirational for my goals.

Would you mind however putting Calontir into American locations? I do not 
do SCA, so I am not familiar with SCA locations.

Thank you.

Kimiko


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Period tailoring techniques, was: Re:Merchant from Spain
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> Thanks Kat, this is good to know. I have fallen for a doublet design
> for myself, and was hoping I could adjust things for my own shape.
> Would you happen to know what those minor differences are?

Women's doublets generally do not have a peascod belly (although some 
of the Italian ones look like they do have it) and the collar back 
tends to be made separately from the back instead of in one piece 
like the men's are.

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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> I just might drop him an email, as I have found his work to be 
> inspirational for my goals.
> 
> Would you mind however putting Calontir into American locations? I do
> not do SCA, so I am not familiar with SCA locations.

In the middle of America. Mostly Kansas and parts of Missouri.

Try reaching Jose at either http://www.deserttorch.com/ or at 
<owners@deserttorch.com>

I hadn't actually looked at their website. (I don't like the pictures 
they have on there. They look much nicer in person!)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Kingdom of Calontir = Kansas, Iowa, Nebraska, and Missouri (with an
exception of a small NE area) and Fayetteville, Arkansas.

De
-----Original Message-----
Would you mind however putting Calontir into American locations? I do not
do SCA, so I am not familiar with SCA locations.

Thank you.

Kimiko


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Here's a lovely book on eBay some of you will like--it's 18th century,
too early for me.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3597205728&category=1
121

Kim

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Kim,

I think this is a V&A or Bath book.... I know I saw it at one of the
museums. Thank you anyways!  I am looking for books out of copyright:
US: pre-1923
France: pre-1934
UK: pre-1904

I am putting this books online in my library.  I have such a back-up right
now to put on the web.  One of my graphic artist intern went crazy this
weekend and prepped the images for three books.  We are also making a
costume encyclopedia of over 2,000 costume descriptions, and several misc.
articles scattered across the 19th and 20th Century.  We are also
translating my website into French, Spanish, and Italian. We have a huge
teams working on these projects.

And me... I am putting together statistics tonight as to what countries have
visited my website in the past four months.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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Oh my gosh!  I am sorry!  I thought Kim was talking to me off the list.  My
apologies.  I was crunching numbers and not looking above to see where it
came from.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Hi the list.
It has ben incredible, i actually got several emails with people who wanted to help me with my dream costume.
I found the lady friday, she is young, and has the finest meassures for this dress. It is Alexia S. Jacobs from New York. But i want to thank all you others who emailed me with propositions, it was very nice of you.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] my dream costume
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Well, do keep us informed on the project...it sounds delightful!

> 
> Hi the list.
> It has ben incredible, i actually got several emails with people who
wanted to help
> me with my dream costume.
> I found the lady friday, she is young, and has the finest meassures for
this dress. It
> is Alexia S. Jacobs from New York. But i want to thank all you others who
emailed
> me with propositions, it was very nice of you.
> 
> Bjarne
> 

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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Merchant from Spain
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2004 05:53:56 -0700
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You might also want to contact Bob Trump directly.  He is very responsive to
emails and his books are available directly from him.

Sg



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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Searching for a Supplier....
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Also I have seen at my LNS (Local Needlework Shop) a rather large color
sample display of wools and their colors for both companies- you might
benefit from contacting them about acquiring their sample
packet/display- though it might be not cheap it could pay off for a long
and involved project in time saved!
Just my .02 lira, Betsy

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Shane & Sheridan
Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2004 11:02 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Searching for a Supplier....




> Greetings,
>
>
>
> I am from the Interior of BC and am looking for a supplier of Appleton
or
> Paternayan Needlework wools.  I would prefer someone in Canada who
does
mail
> order (in BC or at the Coast would make my year!).  I have a very
ambitious
> project I have almost completely passed the planning stages with, and
am
> very looking forward to the practical work.  If anyone could help,
please
> contact me off-list if you prefer.
>
>
>
> Thank you for your time.
>
>
>
> L. Giacinta Cocchetti
>
> jenpotts@shaw.ca
>

Hi!

I just received this Monday my first order of Paternayan and DMC Medicis
wool from a shop based in Ottawa. They were most helpful and prompt, and
if
you do not have a credit card, will take money orders. All I did was
email
them the colours and quantity, and they sent me back the total cost plus
shipping. At the speed at which I received my order, it must have gone
in
the mail the same day my money order arrived at their shop! The only
problem
I have with their website is if you have no idea what the colour numbers
are
of the product you want to order, you will have no clue how to get what
you
want. What I ended up doing was finding a web-page that shows the
colours as
well as the numbers, writing down what I wanted, then ordering from the
Canadian company. :-) So far I am a happy customer!

Here is the page: http://www.cross-stitch.ca/index.html

Here is the site I use to help pick my colours:
http://www.independenceneedlepoint.com/ptpaternayanmain.htm

There was only one glitch in this system, the colour you see on the
monitor
is not necessarily the same as what you get. :-) What I had thought was
going to be a nice spice red, was actually a dark pumpkin orange. It
will
still be used, never fear, but now I know for next time.

Hope this helps, and please pass on any other Canadian suppliers as you
find
them, I'm always looking as well.

Sheridan
(Sudbury, ON)


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Hopefully not to sound stupid.... Who is Bob Trump and how do you get in 
contact with him?

Thank you

Patrice
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This weekend i have done a lot of research and documentation about my "dreamdress" It is so fortunate that there is a lot to go for when i am going to start this projekt.
I shall make a site about it, when i get the time, 
The lady in the portrait is Charlotte Louise von Plessen. She was married to the "Chief of the kings stables" dont know the english title, but in danish it is "Overstaldmester" She also was Lady in Waiting for the queen, Sophie Magdalena.
The queen was painted in this kind of courtdress in 1764, so i guess that the portrait of Louise von Plessen must be from this time two, because her dress is the same as the queens, except that she has no lace, but only sheer fabric.
Then i also am so fortunate, that the swedes has preserved the coronation dress of Ulrika Eleonora. And Janet Arnold made a pattern draft of this dress, in the cut of womens clothes. Ulrika Eleonoras dress has a huge pannier, but my dress has only a medium sized pannier. But fortunately, the bodice is compleately the same, so i can use that.
The style is the french courtdress wich was used on the continent, not in England where they used the Mantua.
It shall be very very interresting, when i make the court train, because i must make it so that it looks like a stuffed bumroll in the front. I almost got the idea that it was a stuffed bumroll lying on top of the dress, but noone would believe this, so i have surrendered, it is the train wich drapes the way so that it looks like.............
Finally but not last, i am going to bath next friday and i shall go to the costume museum and droll over the very rare and unique courtdress they have there in miniature, it is a dolls dress. I shall make a lot of sketching, you bet! The bodice is a court bodice :-)

Bjarne   





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
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Try again. Perhaps there was a problem connecting you to the website?


Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> roscelin@pcez.com 27/03/2004 02:36:38 >>>
Greetings,

   My other half wants to join the mailing list, but I can't recall how

to subscribe.   I did try to use the link at the bottom of the page, 
 but alas nothing happend.  Help please?

Roscelin


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Thanks Catherine,

I just might drop him an email, as I have found his work to be 
inspirational for my goals.
Would you mind however putting Calontir into American locations? I do
not 
do SCA, so I am not familiar with SCA locations.
Thank you.
Kimiko
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Oooops, sorry :).  As some other folks have mentioned, Calontir is very
central to the continental United States.  It is the states of Kansas,
Missouri, Nebraska and Iowa, plus the NW corner of Arkansas.  The Lilies
War is at a lake campground north of Kansas City.  Website: 
http://calontir.sca.org/lilieswar/lilieswar.html  Site is a little
primitive but there is a lot of room for camping.  Generally a laid back
war for anyone who might me interested.  If you want to come and
merchant, drop me an email, I'm the merchant coordinator this year :).

And to keep this on costume content, we have several merchants for trim
and fabric (Calontir Trims, Pillaged Village, Sewing Central), not to
mention while you were in town you could visit a couple of good stores
we have in KC (Cy's, Kaplan's) or LV Outlet (an unclaimed/damaged
freight place that gets a lot of fabric) just up the road in
Leavenworth.  

Then there are the book merchants................

Catherine

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Subject: [h-cost] Anne Boleyn Biography
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 For fans of everything Tudor on this list, I just got word that the book I
preordered from Amazon.co.uk has shipped.

Anne Boleyn: A New Life of England's Tragic Queen by Joanna Denny  400 pgs,
Portrait (Books) I will post a review of it when it arrives if anyone is
interested and I have read it which the book should arrive by the end of
this week or early next and it will probably take me a couple of evenings to
devour it.

Let me know if you want to see a review or if there are any illustrations
and/or costume illustrations, not in any other Anne biog(and I have read
about all of them over the years).

Of course list members on the other side of the pond have a head start on me
so if someone gets this book and wants to review it....

By the way, the latest book on Hans Holbein has arrived at my desk. Haven't
opened it yet, but will have a quick look over lunch.

Cindy Abel
brujne@creighton.edu

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If you find any, could you please post them? I'm not sure I've ever seen
one.

Thanks,
Arlys

On Sat, 27 Mar 2004 19:20:27 +0100 Deredere Galbraith
<triade@kabelfoon.nl> writes:
> Hi,
> 
> I am looking for pictures/paintings of 14th century or earlier box 
> looms
> for band weaving.
> I have seen at least one painting with a box loom but I can't find 
> it
> anymore and I don't know from wat period it was.
> A friend of mine wants to make one for reanactment but she wants 
> proof
> that they had box looms.
> 
> Greetings,
>           Deredere
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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>I am looking for pictures/paintings of 14th century or earlier box 
>>looms
>>for band weaving.

I've only seen one image I can think of, and it's a 15th century 
tapestry -- probably too late for your search.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

Memory is the second thing that goes, right after something else, but I 
can't remember what.  -- Mike Andrews
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Box loom
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Status: RO

I have found one other 15th century picture too.
I wonder if they had box looms before the 15th cenrury.


Cynthia Virtue wrote:

>> I am looking for pictures/paintings of 14th century or earlier box
>>
>>> looms
>>> for band weaving.
>>
>
> I've only seen one image I can think of, and it's a 15th century 
> tapestry -- probably too late for your search.
>



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Thanks, we have the problem corrected now.

Roscelin

Kate M Bunting wrote:

>Try again. Perhaps there was a problem connecting you to the website?
>
>
>Kate Bunting
>Library, University of Derby
>
>  
>



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Subject: [h-cost] Spring Online Classes
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We have some online classes at the Costume Classroom, http://www.costumeclassroom.com  that I thought you all might be interested in.  Today the "Beginning Flat Patternmaking: A Bustle Period Bodice" class started.  We still have opening for students.  The last day to enter this class is Friday.

April classes open for registration:
***Elizabethan Glove Making: Make your own pair of gloves
***Cowgirls And Shady Ladies Fashion History

May classes open for registration:
***Fancy Work for Friends and Fairs: Small Period Sewing Projects 1859-1889

We have some classes that are taught on the Winter/Spring semester time frame.  The last day to enroll in these classes is April 15.  These classes are self-paced.  The class needs to be completed by May 31.  
Winter / Spring Semester Classes:
*** The Elegant Lady: Make Your Own 1910s Tea Gown
*** Sentimental Journey: Make Your Own 1940s Swing Dress
*** Making a Late 18th Century Wardrobe: Caraco Jacket
*** A Victorian Lady: Make Your Own Bustle Era Skirt
*** A Victorian Lady: Make Your Own Early Bustle Era Bodice

You may start registering for the Summer / Autumn semester classes.  Classes start June 1. Again, the classes are self paced.  The last day to enroll in these classes is Nov. 15.  These classes are self-paced.  The class needs to be completed by Dec. 31.

Summer / Autumn Semester Classes:
*** Dressing Jane Austen: Make Your Own Regency Gown
*** Fashion Finery: Make an Heirloom 1914 Dress and Underdress
*** Parasols from the Victorian/Edwardian eras- History- Identification- Restoration and Replication   

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
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Subject: [h-cost] A source for books
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Hi, All. I went to one of the major East Coast (US) antiques shows on 
Saturday. I had forgotten a while back to post this info, but there is a 
book publisher that has a booth there, and I wanted to pass on this 
resource to all of you on the list. The company is Schiffer Publishing  
(www.schifferbooks.com)  They are in Atglen, PA, and besides all of the 
titles they publish on antiques, they have a great many fashion-related 
titles such as "Toile: The storied fabrics of Europe and America"  
"Japanese Children's Fabrics 1950s-1970s"  "Cher doll and her celebrity 
friends: with fashions by Bob Mackie" "Blueprints of Fashion: Home 
sewing Patterns of the 1950s" "The Fashionable Fan" "Hathaway Shirts: 
Their History, Design & Advertising"  "Men's Clothing and Fabrics of the 
1890s"  and "Fashions and Accessories: 1840-1980". Besides the direct 
clothing books (dozens covering many periods), there are books on 
accessories alone, including hats, shoes, buttons, jewelry, etc. I can't 
speak for the accuracy of the works, or how useful they may be to anyone 
on this list, but I thought I'd mention them as a resource nonetheless. 
BTW, they are apparently looking for authors to publish their work with 
them. You can go to the website, or send a note to schifferbk@aol.com. 
Hope this is of some use to any of you out there. Cheers, Mike T.

>  
>

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Subject: [h-cost] Shawls/Wraps
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Status: RO

Hi everyone,
    When did shawls or wraps come into fashion?  My personna is a 14th 
C., French lady.  I do know mantles (?) were used, but wasn't sure about 
any other form of wrap was used.
      Thanks for the help.

Roscelin


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Merchant from Spain
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It's me again.  Just asking the question if anyone knows where I can get a 
dress with the patterns of Spanish Great Sleeves.  Any information would greatly 
be appreciated.

Thanks

Patrice
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From: "Helen  Pinto" <hpinto@mindspring.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <4068E6AF.3010905@pcez.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Shawls/Wraps
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Roscelin-
So I have a better idea of what to look for- are you considering a mantle to
be a large article of clothing which covers everything from the shoulders to
the floor or the top of the head to the floor?  and a shawl to be a smaller
item, say from the head or shoulders to thighs or knees?  But both are flat
and untailored and worn draped around the body, right?
I'm searching paintings right now for another project, but I can keep an eye
out and send you citations for anything I come across.
               -Helen/Aidan

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Roscelin" <roscelin@pcez.com>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, March 29, 2004 10:17 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Shawls/Wraps


> Hi everyone,
>     When did shawls or wraps come into fashion?  My personna is a 14th
> C., French lady.  I do know mantles (?) were used, but wasn't sure about
> any other form of wrap was used.
>       Thanks for the help.
>
> Roscelin
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2004 22:50:58 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Shawls/Wraps
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>So I have a better idea of what to look for- are you considering a mantle to
>be a large article of clothing which covers everything from the shoulders to
>the floor or the top of the head to the floor?  and a shawl to be a smaller
>item, say from the head or shoulders to thighs or knees?  But both are flat
>and untailored and worn draped around the body, right?
>I'm searching paintings right now for another project, but I can keep an eye
>out and send you citations for anything I come across.

Check out the Byzantines and later Romans for flat and untailored draped 
garments (that aren't togas).


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
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             (((  <> ))))
                )   ((((((
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Merchant from Spain
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2004 01:31:00 -0600
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I'm not sure, but doesn't Margo's patterns have a Spanish great sleeve as a
selection?

De

-----Original Message-----

It's me again.  Just asking the question if anyone knows where I can get a
dress with the patterns of Spanish Great Sleeves.  Any information would
greatly
be appreciated.

Thanks

Patrice
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Subject: [h-cost] dreamdress
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Hi,
Sorry to bother you, but wouldnt you know? The Castle wants to buy that dress from me!!!

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
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Cool!!!


Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

>Hi,
>Sorry to bother you, but wouldnt you know? The Castle wants to buy that dress from me!!!
>
>Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>_______________________________________________
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>
>  
>



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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 2004 4:32 AM
Subject: [h-cost] dreamdress



Hi,
Sorry to bother you, but wouldnt you know? The Castle wants to buy that
dress from me!!!

Bjarne

Oh, Bjarne, how WONDERFUL for you!

Dianne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Mar 30 07:21:58 2004
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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Robert Trump
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Mr. Trump can be reached at RWTrump@aol.com.
He is the author of several books on Costuming using the Sartor drafting
system and commentary on Janet Arnold's pattern 'issues'.  His books are
available directly through him.

He is a former SCA member (a Laurel I believe) and currently works for the
St. Louis Opera company.  Briefly, the Sartor system is a method of taking a
minimal set of measurements (for a man, not sure if he has done this for a
woman) and extrapolating the rest of the measurements fairly accurately.  (I
have used it once for a very basic garment and it worked well.).  Then he
has a method of drafting period patterns from these measurements.  I do not
know the history of the Sartor system.  I don't know if Bob created it or
learned it elsewhere.

Sg 


> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Georgeren2@aol.com
> Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2004 11:06 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Merchant from Spain
> 
> Hopefully not to sound stupid.... Who is Bob Trump and how do you get in
> contact with him?
> 
> Thank you
> 
> Patrice
> _______________________________________________
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Sheryl Nance-Durst <sherylnd@kc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] dreamdress
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Well, they must know quality work when they see it. <wink>
That's great!

Sheryl N-D

At 11:32 AM 3/30/04 +0200, you wrote:

>Hi,
>Sorry to bother you, but wouldnt you know? The Castle wants to buy that 
>dress from me!!!
>
>Bjarne
>



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Before you've even made it? Wow!
--Sue, charter member of Bjarne Drews Fan Club ;o)

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Hi,
> Sorry to bother you, but wouldnt you know? The Castle wants to buy that dress from me!!!
> 
> Bjarne
> 


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Congratulations! =)

Arlys

On Tue, 30 Mar 2004 11:32:28 +0200 "Bjarne og Leif Drews"
<drewscph@post12.tele.dk> writes:
> 
> Hi,
> Sorry to bother you, but wouldnt you know? The Castle wants to buy 
> that dress from me!!!
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Mar 30 10:29:50 2004
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Re: Bob Trump
> He is a former SCA member (a Laurel I believe) and currently works for
> the St. Louis Opera company.  Briefly, the Sartor system is a method
> of taking a minimal set of measurements (for a man, not sure if he has
> done this for a woman) and extrapolating the rest of the measurements
> fairly accurately.  (I have used it once for a very basic garment and
> it worked well.).  Then he has a method of drafting period patterns
> from these measurements.  I do not know the history of the Sartor
> system.  I don't know if Bob created it or learned it elsewhere.

Bob developed the system himself. It's named after his SCA name. 
(Master Robert Sartor von Pay Bas, aka RSVP).

When he taught our Doublet workshop, he used the same system for the 
women as for the men. In terms of the doublet the difference that he 
had us do that week was to just not put a peascod belly on the 
women's doublets. (And we were told that we could do our collar backs 
as a separate piece rather than the collar and doublet back being one 
piece. I still did mine with the collar as part of the back instead 
of separate.)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Roscelin-
All of the paintings/miniatures/illuminations can be found at the Web
Gallery of Art:
http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/welcome.html
Click on "Search Engine" and look for the works below.
First of all, mantles are everywhere.  By that, I mean a large over-garment,
probably semi-circular, since it hits the ground evenly all around.  They
are colored, usually different than the gown underneath, and are worn over
the head or over the shoulders.  If over the head, sometimes the head is
bare, sometimes it is over some sort of veiling, which is usually white.  If
over the shoulders, occasionally the head is bare, but more often there is
some sort of headdress.  The mantle just hangs, or else it is pinned, tied
or even knotted to hold it in place; in many works, the women are managing
the folds with their hands.  I won't give citations for this because this
garment is easy to find anywhere from the 11th-16th c., just about any
country.
On to smaller drapery.  I'm going to rule out anything white worn around the
head, neck, and shoulders as veils, wimples, and other assorted head wear,
and just give you some citations for a shorter, colored, draped garment worn
over the gown.  Some look like the long mantles, only knee or thigh length;
others look more like large rectangular shawls.  I was looking at mostly
12-13th c. stuff last  night; here's some I caught:

12c Spanish, Unknown Master (or the Master of Avila), Romanesque manuscript,
"Scenes from the Life of Jesus", the Virgin and probably St. Anne, upper
left, upper right, lower right sections, gold with border, blue with white
pattern and border
1235, French miniaturist, Psalter of Blanche of Castile, woman (probably
saint), on the left
1220, German miniaturist, Book of Prayers of Elizabeth of Hungary, probably
the Virgin, top and bottom picture
1291, Pietro Cavallini, mosaic of the Annunciation, one end is clearly shown
thrown over the shoulder in this one
1293, Pietro Cavallini, mosaic of the Nativity of the Virgin
ca 1280, English miniaturist, Alfonso Psalter manuscript illumination, "Four
Female Saints", saint in upper right
ca 1270, Unknown Italian Master, "Virgin and Child Enthroned", another one
with the wrap thrown over the shoulder

And by accident, I found this interesting later one, where there are shawls
worn in ways we're more accustomed to seeing:  a Pieta by Andrea del Sarto,
1523.  Look at the two women (saints) on the right- the one in the green
dress has a small yellow shawl wrapped around her shoulders, and the woman
in pink is wearing a greenish one over her right shoulder and just hanging
down the front, and probably the back.
                  -Helen/Aidan



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Robert Trump
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     There was a system used in the 19thC, I think it was called the center 
point system.  It sounds similar, only a few actual measurements were taken and 
the rest concluded from there.  They may have been a length and a width, just 
two measurements.  I remember hearing about it being used for men, don't know 
about it's use for women's wear in the 19thC.

     -Carol


kat@grendal.rain.com said:
> Re: Bob Trump
> > He is a former SCA member (a Laurel I believe) and currently works for
> > the St. Louis Opera company.  Briefly, the Sartor system is a method
> > of taking a minimal set of measurements (for a man, not sure if he has
> > done this for a woman) and extrapolating the rest of the measurements
> > fairly accurately.  (I have used it once for a very basic garment and
> > it worked well.).  Then he has a method of drafting period patterns
> > from these measurements.  I do not know the history of the Sartor
> > system.  I don't know if Bob created it or learned it elsewhere.

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From: "Daniel Fenwick" <daniel@fenwick.sparks.nv.us>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Robert Trump
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Just FYI, I found that while his system would work for an "average" person,
I had to take each and every measurement to come up with a garment that I
could actually wear.  The calculations were off by as much as 1.5".
However, his doublet pattern works very well once you have good
measurements.

Dan

>      There was a system used in the 19thC, I think it was 
> called the center point system.  It sounds similar, only a 
> few actual measurements were taken and the rest concluded 
> from there.  They may have been a length and a width, just 
> two measurements.  I remember hearing about it being used for 
> men, don't know about it's use for women's wear in the 19thC.
> 
>      -Carol
> 
> 
> kat@grendal.rain.com said:
> > Re: Bob Trump
> > > He is a former SCA member (a Laurel I believe) and 
> currently works 
> > > for the St. Louis Opera company.  Briefly, the Sartor system is a 
> > > method of taking a minimal set of measurements (for a 
> man, not sure 
> > > if he has done this for a woman) and extrapolating the 
> rest of the 
> > > measurements fairly accurately.  (I have used it once for a very 
> > > basic garment and it worked well.).  Then he has a method of 
> > > drafting period patterns from these measurements.  I do 
> not know the 
> > > history of the Sartor system.  I don't know if Bob 
> created it or learned it elsewhere.
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Robert Trump
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At 05:18 AM 3/30/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>Mr. Trump can be reached at RWTrump@aol.com.
>He is the author of several books on Costuming using the Sartor drafting
>system and commentary on Janet Arnold's pattern 'issues'.  His books are
>available directly through him.


Thanks for providing the contact info. I am curious about his JA books.

Kimiko


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Robert Trump
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At 08:34 AM 3/30/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>Just FYI, I found that while his system would work for an "average" person,
>I had to take each and every measurement to come up with a garment that I
>could actually wear.  The calculations were off by as much as 1.5".
>However, his doublet pattern works very well once you have good
>measurements.
>
>Dan


I agree with you Dan. My husband has small round shoulders, and has a 
"prosperous" belly, and the system just did not work for his measurements 
in almost every area. It would probably work well for a "normal" sized man, 
but I have yet to measure any man who is "normal".

However, I do like Trump's system for providing a starting length for the 
cape that will be going with the doublet and paned hose. It will hopefully 
provide a length that will be in proportion to my husband's "average" 
height. I will comment again if it does or does not, but that will be in a 
few months. Right now, it is sleeves then the new paned hose.

Kimiko


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Yes, I kinda' suspected that there was some historical basis for it....and I
wouldn't expect that it would fit exactly.  But I know it allows a
commercial costumer a reasonable fit that could actually be used as a
fitting garment itself....I understand that is how Jose uses it....


> -----Original Message-----
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Robert Trump
> 
> 
>      There was a system used in the 19thC, I think it was called the
center
> point system.  It sounds similar, only a few actual measurements were
taken and
> the rest concluded from there.  They may have been a length and a width,
just
> two measurements.  

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Subject: [h-cost] OT - Travelling in France
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Hi all,

My parents are going to France in a couple of weeks and they're taking me
with them. What is there that I should absolutely not miss, especially in
Paris?

We're already planning on going to Mont Saint-Michel, Bayeux, Saint-Malo,
some of the Châteaux de la Loire, Languedoc (Carcassone, Toulouse, Minerve),
Provence (Marseille), Côte-d'Azur (Nice), then back to Paris (Louvre,
Montmartre, etc).

There are so many things to see, I'd just like to know if there is some
obscure museum we're likely to miss but that's worth the detour.

Thank you for your help!

Audrey
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Robert Trump
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SG

Thank you so much for the info. ;-)

Patrice
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT - Travelling in France
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In a message dated 3/30/2004 9:10:16 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
audreybmorin2@hotmail.com writes:
My parents are going to France in a couple of weeks and they're taking me
with them. What is there that I should absolutely not miss, especially in
Paris?

We're already planning on going to Mont Saint-Michel, Bayeux, Saint-Malo,
some of the Châteaux de la Loire, Languedoc (Carcassone, Toulouse, Minerve),
Provence (Marseille), Côte-d'Azur (Nice), then back to Paris (Louvre,
Montmartre, etc).

There are so many things to see, I'd just like to know if there is some
obscure museum we're likely to miss but that's worth the detour.

Lucky you!  My parents took me to France a few summers ago, and I adored it.  
I only got to Paris and two of the Chateaux in the Loire, but I'm sure that 
all of those stops are worth-while!

In Paris, of course there's the Louvre, but there's also the Musee 
D'Orsailles (which I can't spell..)- it's a museum housed in an old train station (it's 
huge and made of glass, you probably can't miss it!).  For medieval things, 
there's the museum where the Unicorn tapestries (A Mon Seul Desire and the 
others, depicting the five senses) are housed, though the rest of the muesum is 
mostly Roman baths and such.  Montmartre is quite fun, especially if you have 
your picture done- if the artist is any good, you inadvertantly gain an audience!

In the Loire Valley, you HAVE to see the Chateau Chambord, and Chenonceau is 
also quite nice.  Of course, I think they're also quite far apart, though I 
could be wrong- all I remember about the in-transit parts was my father driving 
the minivan we rented for quite a long time before we got anywhere!

Christine
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Well, if you're going to Toulouse, be sure to stop by Plaisance-du-Haute, a 
small town a dozen or so miles from Toulouse.

Actually don't bother ... the only reason that I mention it is that my 
persona's mother came from there, or was it Plaisance (Piacenza) Italy?. 
Oh, well, I get confused about this SCA persona stuff <g>.

Jealously,
Katie, who has never been to Europe

At 09:09 PM 3/30/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi all,
>My parents are going to France in a couple of weeks and they're taking me
>with them. What is there that I should absolutely not miss, especially in
>Paris?
>We're already planning on going to Mont Saint-Michel, Bayeux, Saint-Malo,
>some of the Châteaux de la Loire, Languedoc (Carcassone, Toulouse, Minerve),
>Provence (Marseille), Côte-d'Azur (Nice), then back to Paris (Louvre,
>Montmartre, etc).
>There are so many things to see, I'd just like to know if there is some
>obscure museum we're likely to miss but that's worth the detour.
>Thank you for your help!
>Audrey




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Make sure you get to the Musee de la Mode et du Textile, which is part of
the Louvre but located OUTSIDE the Louvre -- the entrance is on the Rue de
Rivoli.

- Kendra

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>
>
> In Paris, of course there's the Louvre, but there's also the Musee
> D'Orsailles (which I can't spell..)- it's a museum housed in an old
> train station (it's  huge and made of glass, you probably can't miss
> it!).  For medieval things,  there's the museum where the Unicorn
> tapestries (A Mon Seul Desire and the  others, depicting the five
> senses) are housed, though the rest of the muesum is  mostly Roman baths
> and such.  Montmartre is quite fun, especially if you have  your picture
> done- if the artist is any good, you inadvertantly gain an audience!
>
The tapestries are La Dame et Licorn (sp?)  and they are at the Cluny . 
The Roman part is in the basement but the rest of the museum is dedicated
to the decorative arts of the middle ages and Renaissance.  Love that
place,  Anne (born in Paris and been back numerous times)


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kat@grendal.rain.com wrote:

>
>Bob developed the system himself. It's named after his SCA name. 
>(Master Robert Sartor von Pay Bas, aka RSVP).
>
There are layers of humor in that name.  There are a pair of muscles - 
the sartorius muscles - that cross one another such that they resemble a 
pair of scissors.  They are sometimes referred to as the tailor's muscle.

Karen

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Sorry, I know this was a few weeks ago, but... I hope I'm getting back 
onto this list, I've been elsewhere.

I did an Importance of Being Ernest a few years ago, with a director who 
wanted to set it in the 1920's. I asked why - and she told me she didn't 
really know the reason, but that was always the image she had when she 
read the play. OK... that's actually valid... at least as a starting 
point...

So I went through it, and I could see what she meant. The characters are 
constantly talking about modern young people who do not accept the 
constraints of the past... particularly independent young women. I can't 
tell you how often I'd read it, or how many productions I'd seen - I'd 
even built costumes for a previous one - and I'd never registered that 
as strongly. So I think that moving it a generation later did, in fact, 
throw a new light on a theme that was very much in the original. It 
worked beautifully.


Anne

AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
> <snip>
> 
> 
> Of course Shakespeare is not the only playwright to "suffer" this. I once saw 
> a Moliere "The Learned Ladies" done 1830s. [It was perfect actually]
> 
> The key is to find a period that fits what's already been written and not one 
> you have to force. Peter Sellars [the director, not comic actor] did two 
> Mozart operas in modern dress "Le Nozzi di Figaro" and "Don Gionvanni'. They suck 
> because even though he was clever with making the characters fit [too clever 
> if you ask me] the time period doesn't fit the works....which he woefully 
> misunderstood. That film of "Midsummer" doesn't work because...like...well...why is 
> it moved to Italy? How does that help? [I costumed an 1890s Midsummer...and 
> it can work mainly because of the sensuality vs. proper behavior...the nature 
> vs. civilization issues in the play]
> 
> If you can find another time when the length of men's hair and youth vs. the 
> establishment are big issues, you could do "Hair" in that period.
> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT - Travelling in France
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Hello Audrey!

I'm French and I spent all my young life in Brittany (where Saint-Malo
is...) before moving to Paris 4 years ago, so so feel free to ask me if you
need anything or to mail me offlist if it sounds too OT (my personal adress
is liara @wanadoo.fr) , I'll be glad to help you!

Brittany is a wonderful place, renowned for its fabulous landscapes and its
still strong Celtic culture, but then again I might be a little partial
about it ;)
Saint-Malo is a very nice city, the most famous corsairs and sailors all
lived there. Not very far from Saint-Malo there's a medieval fortified city,
Dinan (with a fabulous fair in July, too late for you I believe?). But if
you like medieval cities, you won't be disappointed when you'll be visiting
Carcassonne... ;)

As for Paris, I second every suggestions that has been made, such as the
Medieval Museum of Cluny, the Louvre and the Museum of Orsay, as well as the
Musée de la Mode et du Textile which is currently displaying an exhibition
on the designer Elsa Schiaparelli.
There's also the Galliera Museum (Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris,
full title ;)) which is running an exhibition called "Ouverture pour
Inventaire", which means (if I'm correct?) : "Open for inventory". According
to their website, it's a tour through their reserve collections. I should be
visiting it this week-end, if you need more info about it.
You should also consider visiting Versailles, it is well worth the trip,
especially with the nice weather we have here at the time! ;)

Then again, f you have a favorite period or a particuliar interest, tell me
and I might find you more obscure places to visit ;)



----- Original Message -----
From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com>


> Hi all,
>
> My parents are going to France in a couple of weeks and they're taking me
> with them. What is there that I should absolutely not miss, especially in
> Paris?
>
> We're already planning on going to Mont Saint-Michel, Bayeux, Saint-Malo,
> some of the Châteaux de la Loire, Languedoc (Carcassone, Toulouse,
Minerve),
> Provence (Marseille), Côte-d'Azur (Nice), then back to Paris (Louvre,
> Montmartre, etc).
>
> There are so many things to see, I'd just like to know if there is some
> obscure museum we're likely to miss but that's worth the detour.
>
> Thank you for your help!
>
> Audrey
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: [h-cost] Elizabethan
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Hi the list,
Surfed on Ninyamikhailas website and guess what! She has made, as i suggested when i came back last year from seein the effigy corset, that the stomacher piece lyes on top of the wheel farthingale. ........... I Told You!
Take a look: http://www.ninyamikhaila.com/Elizabethan.html 
And take a look of this stunning piede she has made:
http://www.ninyamikhaila.com/Elizabethan.html
 A copy of the famous embroidered forepart with the whalefish. Whow
She is the most talented costume maker i know.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT - Travelling in France
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Hi, now you are french perhaps you knew about the place called "Fulgence
collektion" in Paris.
In a very beautifull book i have about silk, there are stunning beautifull
silks from there. Is it open to the public?
I am travelling to Paris in august or september

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Liara" <liara@wanadoo.fr>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2004 1:02 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT - Travelling in France


>
> Hello Audrey!
>
> I'm French and I spent all my young life in Brittany (where Saint-Malo
> is...) before moving to Paris 4 years ago, so so feel free to ask me if
you
> need anything or to mail me offlist if it sounds too OT (my personal
adress
> is liara @wanadoo.fr) , I'll be glad to help you!
>
> Brittany is a wonderful place, renowned for its fabulous landscapes and
its
> still strong Celtic culture, but then again I might be a little partial
> about it ;)
> Saint-Malo is a very nice city, the most famous corsairs and sailors all
> lived there. Not very far from Saint-Malo there's a medieval fortified
city,
> Dinan (with a fabulous fair in July, too late for you I believe?). But if
> you like medieval cities, you won't be disappointed when you'll be
visiting
> Carcassonne... ;)
>
> As for Paris, I second every suggestions that has been made, such as the
> Medieval Museum of Cluny, the Louvre and the Museum of Orsay, as well as
the
> Musée de la Mode et du Textile which is currently displaying an exhibition
> on the designer Elsa Schiaparelli.
> There's also the Galliera Museum (Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris,
> full title ;)) which is running an exhibition called "Ouverture pour
> Inventaire", which means (if I'm correct?) : "Open for inventory".
According
> to their website, it's a tour through their reserve collections. I should
be
> visiting it this week-end, if you need more info about it.
> You should also consider visiting Versailles, it is well worth the trip,
> especially with the nice weather we have here at the time! ;)
>
> Then again, f you have a favorite period or a particuliar interest, tell
me
> and I might find you more obscure places to visit ;)
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com>
>
>
> > Hi all,
> >
> > My parents are going to France in a couple of weeks and they're taking
me
> > with them. What is there that I should absolutely not miss, especially
in
> > Paris?
> >
> > We're already planning on going to Mont Saint-Michel, Bayeux,
Saint-Malo,
> > some of the Châteaux de la Loire, Languedoc (Carcassone, Toulouse,
> Minerve),
> > Provence (Marseille), Côte-d'Azur (Nice), then back to Paris (Louvre,
> > Montmartre, etc).
> >
> > There are so many things to see, I'd just like to know if there is some
> > obscure museum we're likely to miss but that's worth the detour.
> >
> > Thank you for your help!
> >
> > Audrey
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From: "Dianne & Greg Stucki" <goofy1@suscom.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <BAY9-DAV378saoPaZ9F0001d447@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT - Travelling in France
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2004 07:03:28 -0500
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If you go to the Chateau de Chambord, pictures, please please please?

Dianne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 2004 9:09 PM
Subject: [h-cost] OT - Travelling in France


> Hi all,
>
> My parents are going to France in a couple of weeks and they're taking me
> with them. What is there that I should absolutely not miss, especially in
> Paris?
>
> We're already planning on going to Mont Saint-Michel, Bayeux, Saint-Malo,
> some of the Châteaux de la Loire, Languedoc (Carcassone, Toulouse,
Minerve),
> Provence (Marseille), Côte-d'Azur (Nice), then back to Paris (Louvre,
> Montmartre, etc).
>
> There are so many things to see, I'd just like to know if there is some
> obscure museum we're likely to miss but that's worth the detour.
>
> Thank you for your help!
>
> Audrey
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

_______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Mar 31 08:44:59 2004
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From: "Katharine Devereaux" <katdevereaux@hotmail.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT - Travelling in France
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2004 08:26:22 -0500
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Audrey,

You are very lucky!  A few years ago, I spent 3 weeks in and around
Paris. I would highly recommend the National Manufacturer of Gobelins.
This is a modern day tapestry manufacturer that currently produces
tapestries and rugs for museums, royalty, government, etc. They offer a
tour that takes you through the process and you can see the people
working by hand to produce beautiful tapestries and rugs. The technique
is almost the same as it has been over the last few hundred years. The
tour is in French, but I had no problem getting the gist of what was
being said and could watch the workers at their craft(I don’t speak
French at all). 

http://www.ile-de-france-paris.com/francilien/visites/PCUIDF0000000023.h
tml. This is the link that states the address, hours, and cost of entry.

I also went to Madrid on this trip and it was very different to visit
the Tapestry museum of Madrid. They work on the same types of products,
but Gobelins was much more modern and lighter. The biggest difference
was that the workers in Madrid smoked throughout their working day in
the building, next to and while they were weaving.

Enjoy!

Kim - who would move to Paris in a heartbeat if she could find a job
there...

Kimberly Hulse
SCA: Katharine Devereaux



-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Audrey Bergeron-Morin
Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 2004 9:09 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] OT - Travelling in France

Hi all,

My parents are going to France in a couple of weeks and they're taking
me
with them. What is there that I should absolutely not miss, especially
in
Paris?

We're already planning on going to Mont Saint-Michel, Bayeux,
Saint-Malo,
some of the Châteaux de la Loire, Languedoc (Carcassone, Toulouse,
Minerve),
Provence (Marseille), Côte-d'Azur (Nice), then back to Paris (Louvre,
Montmartre, etc).

There are so many things to see, I'd just like to know if there is some
obscure museum we're likely to miss but that's worth the detour.

Thank you for your help!

Audrey
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Mar 31 08:56:28 2004
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <000901c41723$c20f66e0$7900000a@govolution.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT - Travelling in France
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Hi Katharine,
Perhaps you looked at the tapestries they made for our castle
Christiansborg? They were a gift for our queen and they had hired an artist
called Bjørn Nørgaard to make the history of Denmark in big tapestries. They
used very beautifull vivid colours and i think they worked with these
tapestries for 5 years. It was Gobelins who made these. They finished the
tapestries last year and they are hanging at Christiansborg now.
Bjarne from a Copenhagen with spring. The stork is arrived to Denmark.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Katharine Devereaux" <katdevereaux@hotmail.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2004 3:26 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT - Travelling in France


> Audrey,
>
> You are very lucky!  A few years ago, I spent 3 weeks in and around
> Paris. I would highly recommend the National Manufacturer of Gobelins.
> This is a modern day tapestry manufacturer that currently produces
> tapestries and rugs for museums, royalty, government, etc. They offer a
> tour that takes you through the process and you can see the people
> working by hand to produce beautiful tapestries and rugs. The technique
> is almost the same as it has been over the last few hundred years. The
> tour is in French, but I had no problem getting the gist of what was
> being said and could watch the workers at their craft(I don't speak
> French at all).
>
> http://www.ile-de-france-paris.com/francilien/visites/PCUIDF0000000023.h
> tml. This is the link that states the address, hours, and cost of entry.
>
> I also went to Madrid on this trip and it was very different to visit
> the Tapestry museum of Madrid. They work on the same types of products,
> but Gobelins was much more modern and lighter. The biggest difference
> was that the workers in Madrid smoked throughout their working day in
> the building, next to and while they were weaving.
>
> Enjoy!
>
> Kim - who would move to Paris in a heartbeat if she could find a job
> there...
>
> Kimberly Hulse
> SCA: Katharine Devereaux
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
> On Behalf Of Audrey Bergeron-Morin
> Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 2004 9:09 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] OT - Travelling in France
>
> Hi all,
>
> My parents are going to France in a couple of weeks and they're taking
> me
> with them. What is there that I should absolutely not miss, especially
> in
> Paris?
>
> We're already planning on going to Mont Saint-Michel, Bayeux,
> Saint-Malo,
> some of the Châteaux de la Loire, Languedoc (Carcassone, Toulouse,
> Minerve),
> Provence (Marseille), Côte-d'Azur (Nice), then back to Paris (Louvre,
> Montmartre, etc).
>
> There are so many things to see, I'd just like to know if there is some
> obscure museum we're likely to miss but that's worth the detour.
>
> Thank you for your help!
>
> Audrey
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


_______________________________________________
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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Elizabethan
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2004 06:00:21 -0700
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Wow, I wonder if the animals are painted or embroidered.  I think I had read
that they were painted....

Awesome!

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
> Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2004 4:24 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Elizabethan
> 
> Hi the list,
> Surfed on Ninyamikhailas website and guess what! She has made, as i
suggested
> when i came back last year from seein the effigy corset, that the
stomacher piece
> lyes on top of the wheel farthingale. ........... I Told You!
> Take a look: http://www.ninyamikhaila.com/Elizabethan.html
> And take a look of this stunning piede she has made:
> http://www.ninyamikhaila.com/Elizabethan.html
>  A copy of the famous embroidered forepart with the whalefish. Whow
> She is the most talented costume maker i know.
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Angharad ver' Reynulf" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Inquiry on pearl colors  and sizes in 14th century
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Greetings!

Yes, I'm coming out of de-lurking and wedding preps to
ask a question I haven't been able to figure out.  The
books I've been able to get my hands on don't have
clear color pictures, or merely state pearls
(freshwater, glass and so forth) with no commentary on
the color or shape/size and well, my monitor at either
work or home is not the best for determining colors.
(Yes, I went to Grizel's Bead site)

My overgown is being embellished with embroidery,
spangles and pearls, similar to the descriptions I
found in _Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince_ and
_Medieval Embroiderers_.  I have some pretty spangles
and so forth, but am confused on pearl colors and
sizes that would be available (or preferred) in
England/Wales for the 14th Century (I'll take later
13th too).  I had thought white or cream only with
most being 8mm round/potato size, but my negotiator is
trying to talk me into some more, well unusual colors,
like a coppery color or a peacock  and some of the
more rice-type as part of the things 'provided' by the
groom and his family.

My instinct is to go for some of the 8mm rounds and a
few of the 4mm rice (they are almost round/potato
shaped) in white against the pink wool. (It's almost
an ashes-of-roses color, with a bit of peach-type
hue-very interesting shade - thanks to Robin!)

Suggestions, input, and pointers are all invited.

Thank you,

Angharad
(Jonnalyhn Wolfcat)

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Mar 31 11:21:18 2004
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Subject: [h-cost] Embellished foreparts
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I'm looking for images of embellished foreparts
(beaded/pearled/embroidered/etc). I can almost only find hyper symmetrical
designs on Elizabeth's gown, or they're wide guards or trim, or I don't see
enough to make out the design.

So, do you have a portrait in mind that I could look at for inspiration?

Thank you,
Audrey
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Mar 31 11:39:29 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Inquiry on pearl colors  and sizes in 14th century
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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No to peacock pearls. That is a very modern treatment
applied to freshwater pearls.Most of the peaches and
pinks are also artificial. Cream to white is the most
common natural color for freshwater and saltwater
pearls. Black pearls were very rare in the 14th
century and highly prized. Think of the color of
hematite. Freshwater pearls were numerous in Scotland
before being depleted in the 17th century. many of
these were potato or nearly round.
 
http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/nova/pearl/time.html
http://www.imperial-deltah.com/visitors/visitors_history_of_pearls1.htm
http://www.pearloasis.com/pearlhistory.html


 --- Angharad ver' Reynulf <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
wrote: > Greetings!
> 
> Yes, I'm coming out of de-lurking and wedding preps
> to
> ask a question I haven't been able to figure out. 
> The
> books I've been able to get my hands on don't have
> clear color pictures, or merely state pearls
> (freshwater, glass and so forth) with no commentary
> on
> the color or shape/size and well, my monitor at
> either
> work or home is not the best for determining colors.
> (Yes, I went to Grizel's Bead site)
> 
> My overgown is being embellished with embroidery,
> spangles and pearls, similar to the descriptions I
> found in _Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince_
> and
> _Medieval Embroiderers_.  I have some pretty
> spangles
> and so forth, but am confused on pearl colors and
> sizes that would be available (or preferred) in
> England/Wales for the 14th Century (I'll take later
> 13th too).  I had thought white or cream only with
> most being 8mm round/potato size, but my negotiator
> is
> trying to talk me into some more, well unusual
> colors,
> like a coppery color or a peacock  and some of the
> more rice-type as part of the things 'provided' by
> the
> groom and his family.
> 
> My instinct is to go for some of the 8mm rounds and
> a
> few of the 4mm rice (they are almost round/potato
> shaped) in white against the pink wool. (It's almost
> an ashes-of-roses color, with a bit of peach-type
> hue-very interesting shade - thanks to Robin!)
> 
> Suggestions, input, and pointers are all invited.
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> Angharad
> (Jonnalyhn Wolfcat)
> 
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Finance Tax Center - File online. File on
> time.
> http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

=====
Catalina
Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit


	
	
		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT - Travelling in France
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> If you go to the Chateau de Chambord, pictures, please please please?
>
> Dianne

I'll see if we get there and if we do I'll try to take pictures. I'm usually
not a picture girl :-)
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> Well, if you're going to Toulouse, be sure to stop by Plaisance-du-Haute,
a
> small town a dozen or so miles from Toulouse.
>
> Actually don't bother ... the only reason that I mention it is that my
> persona's mother came from there, or was it Plaisance (Piacenza) Italy?.
> Oh, well, I get confused about this SCA persona stuff <g>.
>
> Jealously,
> Katie, who has never been to Europe

We're stopping at Minerve for the exact same reason - my SCA persona was
born there :-)
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> Then again, f you have a favorite period or a particuliar interest, tell
me
> and I might find you more obscure places to visit ;)

- Southern France, early 13th Century (That's why we're going to Toulouse,
Minerve and St-Guilhelm-le-Désert)

- The pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostella

- mid-late 16th C, mostly Italy and Spain, but a little all around (I'll go
to Florence, one day...)

- 1800-1815 France (Empire dresses are wonderful)

- Fashion in general, 1000-1980. Especially extant pieces.

And of course, we'll be visiting the regular tourist places.

Thanks for your help.

Audrey
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From: Tasha McGann <demontsegur@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] re: OT -- travelling in France
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> - The pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostella

If you have time, there's a wonderful book you might
enjoy reading beforehand or on the trip, called _The
Pilgrimage to Santiago_ by Edwin Mullins. It's been
reissued as part of a series called "Lost and Found:
Classic Travel Writing". Mullins clearly knows his
Romanesque architecture and stone carving, and does a
fascinating job detailing the towns and the churches
and other telltale signs of the once-thriving pilgrim
tourist industry along the pilgrimage route of the
West coast of France and into Northern Spain. 

Also, I don't think anyone has mentioned The Musee des
Tissus et des Arts decoratifs de Lyon (in Lyon,
obviously). This museum has the famed Charles de Blois
"pourpoint" and a few alms purses dating to the 14th
century, as well as other textile treasures. I haven't
been there yet, but it'll be a must-see for me on my
first trip to France, whenever I can pull that off.

Cheers,
Tasha

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I know this was posted to this list a little while ago, and I thought I had
saved it!

When you put a sample of what you think is a silk blend in bleach, is it the
silk that dissolves or is it the blending fibre?

Sheridan
(having an Altzheimers moment...)


<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>

...it is well known that a vital ingredient of success is not knowing that
what you're attempting can't be done.

Terry Pratchett (Equal Rites)


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Test
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silk dissolves


 --- Shane & Sheridan <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca>
wrote: > I know this was posted to this list a little
while
> ago, and I thought I had
> saved it!
> 
> When you put a sample of what you think is a silk
> blend in bleach, is it the
> silk that dissolves or is it the blending fibre?
> 
> Sheridan
> (having an Altzheimers moment...)
> 
> 
> <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
> 
> ...it is well known that a vital ingredient of
> success is not knowing that
> what you're attempting can't be done.
> 
> Terry Pratchett (Equal Rites)
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

=====
Catalina
Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit


	
	
		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Test
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Silk and wool will dissolve in bleach. Silk might leave a slight residue
(not sure if it's seracin or treating products).

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Shane & Sheridan" <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2004 2:19 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Silk Test


> I know this was posted to this list a little while ago, and I thought I
had
> saved it!
>
> When you put a sample of what you think is a silk blend in bleach, is it
the
> silk that dissolves or is it the blending fibre?
>
> Sheridan
> (having an Altzheimers moment...)
>
>
> <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
>
> ...it is well known that a vital ingredient of success is not knowing that
> what you're attempting can't be done.
>
> Terry Pratchett (Equal Rites)
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
_______________________________________________
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I know wool will, too.  

.heather.

> 
> silk dissolves
> 
> 
>  --- Shane & Sheridan <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca>
> wrote: > I know this was posted to this list a little
> while
> > ago, and I thought I had
> > saved it!
> > 
> > When you put a sample of what you think is a silk
> > blend in bleach, is it the
> > silk that dissolves or is it the blending fibre?
> > 
> > Sheridan
> > (having an Altzheimers moment...)
> > 
> > 
> > <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
> > 
> > ...it is well known that a vital ingredient of
> > success is not knowing that
> > what you're attempting can't be done.
> > 
> > Terry Pratchett (Equal Rites)
> > 
> > 
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
> 
> =====
> Catalina
> Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit
> 
> 
> 	
> 	
> 		
> ___________________________________________________________
> WIN FREE WORLDWIDE FLIGHTS - nominate a cafe in the Yahoo! Mail Internet Cafe Awards  www.yahoo.co.uk/internetcafes 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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From: annora <lisleong@k12.hi.us>
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Subject: [h-cost] Women's Costume of the Near and Middle East
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Hi,
	Are any of you familiar with the above book by Jennifer Scarce?
Do you have any comments, cautions, or caveats about it?  Amazon has a few
positive comments about it but I don't recall seeing it discussed here
before (although I don't usually do Middle Eastern so I could've skipped
the thread).  Originally published in 1988, paperback edition printed last
year.

thanks,
annora


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Mar 31 17:35:58 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Test
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2004 16:59:41 -0500
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Thanks, thats what I thought, but I couldn't quite remember...

Sheridan  :-)

----- Original Message -----
From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2004 4:18 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Test


> Silk and wool will dissolve in bleach. Silk might leave a slight residue
> (not sure if it's seracin or treating products).
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Shane & Sheridan" <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2004 2:19 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] Silk Test
>
>
> > I know this was posted to this list a little while ago, and I thought I
> had
> > saved it!
> >
> > When you put a sample of what you think is a silk blend in bleach, is it
> the
> > silk that dissolves or is it the blending fibre?
> >
> > Sheridan
> > (having an Altzheimers moment...)
> >
> >
> > <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
> >
> > ...it is well known that a vital ingredient of success is not knowing
that
> > what you're attempting can't be done.
> >
> > Terry Pratchett (Equal Rites)
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Mar 31 19:54:50 2004
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> My negotiator is
> trying to talk me into some more, well unusual colors,
> like a coppery color or a peacock  and some of the
> more rice-type as part of the things 'provided' by the
> groom and his family.

If you get pearls, get freshwater pearls. Natural (undyed). 

If they feel that they need to go with something colored, then glass 
or semiprecious beads would probably be better. Or flat metal bits. 
There are a lot of wonderful metal bits (gold being preferred, of 
course) that were put on the clothing (see _Black Prince_ and _Dress 
Accessories_.)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Mar 31 23:53:35 2004
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Women's Costume of the Near and Middle East
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On Wednesday 31 March 2004 05:19 pm, annora wrote:
> Hi,
> 	Are any of you familiar with the above book by Jennifer Scarce?
> Do you have any comments, cautions, or caveats about it? 

Yes, I bought myself a copy last year.  Unfortunately, it seems to have 
vanished, so I'm going to have to comment from memory.  :-)

It's not a bad book, but if you're expecting vast amounts of detail be 
prepared for disappointment.  It's not much more than a historical survey.  

Other issues you should be aware of:

1)  The title's misleading.  99% of the material is about Turkish costume 
only.
2) It could use better organization and more illustrations.  Most of the 
existing ones are black and white photographs.  They're reasonably clear, but 
in light of the fact that the basic lines of costume are simple, and the real 
glory of the costumes is their colors and colored decoration, I felt a bit 
cheated by the lack of color pictures (though that probably brought down the 
price).


> Amazon has a few
> positive comments about it but I don't recall seeing it discussed here
> before (although I don't usually do Middle Eastern so I could've skipped
> the thread). [snip]

It hasn't been.  I would have remembered.

That being said, there are so few books available that even touch upon 
medieval Near Eastern costume (Scarce goes back to about the 14th c, though 
most of her material is 17-20th) that I think it's still worth the $29.95 
cover price.  The only other book on Near/Middle Eastern Dress I've looked 
through recently (Short History of Arab Dress , author: Stillman, Y K , 
Publisher: Koninklijke Brill) was retailing with my favorite book dealer for 
$101.00 US, and had all the faults of Scarce's book magnified--i.e. it had 
fewer photographs and was even worse organized.

If I find my copy, I'll see if I can come up with more specific details.  

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Anything's within walking distance if you have the time." -Steven Wright
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