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Subject: [h-cost] central repository - really
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Hi folks...   back to the topic in the topic...  ; >

C wrote...

>It's a great idea but may cause more harm than good.
><snip>
>The problem with pre-arranged archives of information is that they too
>easily become law without question regardless of origin or research.

I disagree.  Mainly because I am not talking about posting definitive "This 
is how you do it"  types of information.  I was envisioning more of "These 
are resources that are available" information.

For example,  the conversation about sleeveless chemises in pre 1600 Europe 
that sparked this idea produced a list of resources that demonstrated the 
existence of such critters.  There was no attempt to set a standard,  but 
there was a generation of resources from many corners of the list.  That is 
what I would like to capture.

Having, or creating,  a central repository would allow us to pool our 
knowledge and resources.  And I must say that I think the readers of this 
list are capable of taking one person's opinion as just that,  one 
opinion.  So I wouldn't object to having "This is how *I did it" articles.

And I have seen other lists use central repositories successfully, the 
Historic Knit list being one of them.  It allows newer members to "get up 
to speed" and also encourages more detailed discussion between the older 
members.

Anyway - my 2cents on the subject...
Mari / Bridgette 

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References: <6.0.0.14.0.20040506161750.02375d78@pop.ntlworld.com>
	<6.0.0.14.0.20040516195344.02458438@pop.ntlworld.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: The Proposal
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Odd...the date on this message is May 16.

Anyway--I tried the link and it doesn't work. But, I did go to your
site and looked at your dolls. They're quite nifty! I quite like what
you've done with their clothing.

With regards,
kate

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lynne Connolly" <lynneconnolly@ntlworld.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 16, 2004 2:56 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Proposal


> Just thought I'd show you what I do with all my costume info! The
dolls are
> doll's house size, men 6 inches and women about 5 1/2 inches.
> Here's the results of the workshop I attended yesterday. I dressed
the man
> doll, a handsome fellow, I hope you'll agree!
> http://homepage.ntlworld.com/lynneconnolly/The%20Proposal.htm
>
>
> Lynne Connolly, GSOLFOT
> The latest Richard and Rose adventure, HARLEY STREET, is here!
> http://www.novelbooksinc.com/>Novelbooks Inc.
> http://homepage.ntlworld.com/lynneconnolly/
<http://www.awe-struck.net/>
>


----------------------------------------------------------------------
----------


> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jun  1 10:49:58 2004
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Hi Lynn! Sad to say, the attachment didn't work--all that came through
was the header. Looking forward to seeing your work.

Arlys

On Sun, 16 May 2004 19:56:19 +0100 Lynne Connolly
<lynneconnolly@ntlworld.com> writes:
> Just thought I'd show you what I do with all my costume info! The 
> dolls are 
> doll's house size, men 6 inches and women about 5 1/2 inches.
> Here's the results of the workshop I attended yesterday. I dressed 
> the man 
> doll, a handsome fellow, I hope you'll agree!
> http://homepage.ntlworld.com/lynneconnolly/The%20Proposal.htm
> 
> 
> Lynne Connolly, GSOLFOT
> The latest Richard and Rose adventure, HARLEY STREET, is here!
> http://www.novelbooksinc.com/>Novelbooks Inc.
> http://homepage.ntlworld.com/lynneconnolly/ 
> <http://www.awe-struck.net/>


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Subject: [h-cost] Ideas for Desdemona's dress (from Othello)
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Hi all,

I'm delurking for a moment to ask for ideas to incorporate into a
costume project that my daughter, Hannah, is making.  In her English
class, they just finished reading "Othello" and she has decided to
make a dress to represent Desdemona.  She wanted a pale color to
represent innocence, so she is using a pale pink fabric.  She is also
going to add a handkerchief to represent D's handkerchief.  But now
she has run out of ideas (and I never read or saw "Othello" so I'm
not much help for her).

Does anyone have any suggestions for her?

Many thanks in advance,
Mary


=====
"Pictures of perfection, as you know, make me sick & wicked."
~ Jane Austen

"Right now I'm having amnesia and deja vu at the same time.  I think I've forgotten this before."      ~ Steven Wright
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Ideas for Desdemona's dress (from Othello)
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 Depends on how much research you and she want to do. Simplicity carries a
lot of "Rennaissance" era costumes that are varying degrees of accurate. Is
her class reproducing costumes that might have been worn in Shakespeare's
era or what was historically correct in the times the plays were set?

She might also want to rent the VHS of Othello of several years ago,
starring Lawrence Fishburne as Othello if she is looking for historically
accurate costumes that are of about Shakespeare's time as worn in Venice.
She could also look at film stills or play photos of other productions of
Othello for ideas. Bear in mind that all productions, will reflect,
especially in women's costuming, hair, and makeup, whatever was the current
aesthetic of attractiveness.

Cindy Abel

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: M Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ideas for Desdemona's dress (from Othello)
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Hey Mary...

         I love Shakespeare so forgive me if this is too bard heavy...

I have heard Desdemona portrayed in many lights innocent victim, 
independent woman, pawn etc. etc.  But one of the most intersting opinions 
I have heard argued is that she is a character from one of Shakespeare's 
Comedys who wandered into a Tragedy.  It's an interesting viewpoint and 
quite arguable from the behaviour of Desdamona in the first two acts.

So that being said...

Desdamona is often seen as passive and done in by forces around her - BUT 
remember she tells her father in the first act that she is a wife now,  and 
therefore owing her obedience to her husband...  not a wilting flower in 
that action.

She is also a wife so she would dress modestly.  Many, many directors and 
costume designers choose to have her hair uncovered...   a thing I disagree 
with.

The play is initially set in Venice and then moves to Cyprus.  So Venetian 
costume is a very good place to start.

Something I wonder about... playing off the Venetian costume idea...
         What about a dress that is Ribbon or tie heavy...  tied across the 
bodice,  two part sleeves tied at the shoulder, and along the forearm...
         and as we first see D. in Venice all her ties are done up,  she is 
in order,  as is her world...
         When she arrives in Cyprus her ties are disheveled, perhaps she is 
seen straightening or retying them
         As the play progresses,  Say by the garden scene,  the lower 
sleeves are gone - things coming undone.
         And in the nighttime scenes the dress is undone, and removed... 
civilizing forces are gong, all is unrestrained.

OK...  that's it for now... gotta go work.  Mari / Bridgette

>Hi all,
>
>I'm delurking for a moment to ask for ideas to incorporate into a
>costume project that my daughter, Hannah, is making.  In her English
>class, they just finished reading "Othello" and she has decided to
>make a dress to represent Desdemona.  She wanted a pale color to
>represent innocence, so she is using a pale pink fabric.  She is also
>going to add a handkerchief to represent D's handkerchief.  But now
>she has run out of ideas (and I never read or saw "Othello" so I'm
>not much help for her).
>
>Does anyone have any suggestions for her?
>
>Many thanks in advance,
>Mary

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>         As the play progresses,  Say by the garden scene,  the lower 
> sleeves are gone - things coming undone.
>         And in the nighttime scenes the dress is undone, and removed... 
> civilizing forces are gong, all is unrestrained.


You know, if I saw a play in which the character's clothes were 
progressively more 'undone' in each scene I don't think I'd be thinking 
about the representation of loss of control and civilizing forces, I'd 
be wondering if she was going to show up naked in the final act. :)



Dawn



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In a message dated 6/1/2004 11:32:35 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
brujne@creighton.edu writes:

> She might also want to rent the VHS of Othello of several years ago,
> starring Lawrence Fishburne as Othello if she is looking for historically
> accurate costumes that are of about Shakespeare's time as worn in Venice.
> 

I also recommend the Zefferelli film of Verdi's opera "Otello". 

I might add that Desdemona is not so very innocent....though certainly of the 
crimes she's accused in the play. Naive is a good word.
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In a message dated 6/1/2004 11:54:01 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
ms154@cornell.edu writes:

> She is also a wife so she would dress modestly.

Interesting.

Of course she IS marrying a black man in the Renn. So I don't think she's so 
very "modest"...in the conservative sense. She might have a problem with that 
even today.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ideas for Desdemona's dress (from Othello)
From: ruthanne baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
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If she's not going for a particular place or period but just a "feel,"
Simplicity 2806 (formerly P477) is very lovely. I used this to costume a
"young innocent" in a revenge-tragedy parody I wrote (set in the Kingdom of
Inania, set in that well-known historic period "yore").

The sleeves on the high-waisted undergown are beautiful and very feminine
and rich. The overgown makes the costume more formal. I made this costume
with a pale-pink undergown with white puffs in the sleeves and a
silvery-taupe overgown.

The reason I think of this pattern is that alone the undergown says either
Simple Gown or even Nightgown, and if your daughter is doing Desdemona she
might want this day/night suggestion. The open neckline makes the neck seem
very vulnerable, especially apt for a lady who dies of strangling. The
overgown adds the Grown-up note that makes the girl a woman, also
appropriate to the newly-wed Des. (I'd disregard the head-dress on this
pattern.) 

Again, I don't see this pattern as conveying a particular time and place
with authenticity, but it does have a good "Shakespearean" feel. If I were
doing Othello I'd consider this costume pattern.

Hope this helps! 

Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

on 6/1/04 11:21 AM, Mary at hanstar88@yahoo.com wrote:

> Hi all,
> 
> I'm delurking for a moment to ask for ideas to incorporate into a
> costume project that my daughter, Hannah, is making.  In her English
> class, they just finished reading "Othello" and she has decided to
> make a dress to represent Desdemona.  She wanted a pale color to
> represent innocence, so she is using a pale pink fabric.  She is also
> going to add a handkerchief to represent D's handkerchief.  But now
> she has run out of ideas (and I never read or saw "Othello" so I'm
> not much help for her).
> 
> Does anyone have any suggestions for her?
> 
> Many thanks in advance,
> Mary
> 
> 
> =====
> "Pictures of perfection, as you know, make me sick & wicked."
> ~ Jane Austen
> 
> "Right now I'm having amnesia and deja vu at the same time.  I think I've
> forgotten this before."      ~ Steven Wright
> _______________________________________________
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Dear Bjarne,

This is a wonderful site indeed. I can see exactly how to adapt the women's
costumes from The Country Wife and also have got some very useful ideas for
changes to the men's costumes. The details of interiors on some of the
paintings will also be helpful to my set designer.

I wish I had time to make the costumes from scratch, but I think with the
help of these illustrations they will at least be more French!

You've been a big help, and very timely too.  Thanks.  --Ruth Anne


on 5/31/04 11:47 AM, Bjarne og Leif Drews at drewscph@post12.tele.dk wrote:

> Dear Ruth,
> I can see why you are nervous about this when you are opening july 2.nd
> I would suggest you to look on Kipars L'age D'or wich has wonderfull
> resources  from the period of Molliere.
> I envy you a little, because this is one of my favourite periods.
> http://www.kipar.org/resources/index.html
> Bjarne
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "ruthanne baumgartner" <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Monday, May 31, 2004 4:33 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] Request for emergency assistance
> 
> 
>> To this knowledgeable and helpful list:
>> 
>> I've been preparing to direct The Merry Wives of Windsor in July, and
>> everything for sets and costumes was in place.
>> 
>> And then only 4 of the expected 20 males showed up at auditions.
>> 
>> We have had to change the play and, considering the talent available to us
>> and our previous experience with Restoration comedy, have chosen Moliere's
>> TARTUFFE.
>> 
>> What's scary about this is that the scheduled opening date is July 2.
>> 
>> Two years ago I did a production of The Country Wife and believe many of
>> those costumes can be adapted for Tartuffe.
>> 
>> But our set design was very particular to The Country Wife--its various
>> locations, the set-changing limitations of our stage, our teensy budget
>> ($1700 is this theater's budget for a whole production, can you believe).
>> 
>> Moliere liked a fancy stage, and so would we, especially as we will
> present
>> all our action in one setting.
>> 
>> What my set designer would really appreciate is a painting of an
>> upper-bourgeois interior--drawing room, preferably, or some other public
>> domestic room. It can have people in it if necessary ;}.
>> 
>> And what I, as both director and costumes mistress, would appreciate is a
>> few images of male and female French petits-bourgeoises in day dress. I've
>> found an appropriate Bailiff and Royal Police Officer, so my fears for
> those
>> two specific costumes are allayed.
>> 
>> I'd do my own research if I had more time, but this is really a breathless
>> situation, and Tartuffe will be my first French play (in English
> translation
>> of course--I'm in Connecticut community theater!--but we really want a
>> French feel) so I don't have research already done into French styles of
>> this period.
>> 
>> Ah--what period! 1662 was Moliere's first version; 1669 was the triumphant
>> 5-act production. So 1660s.
>> 
>> If anyone can point me to some good illustrations/paintings I would be
>> enormously grateful and hugely relieved.
>> 
>> Thanks in advance!
>> 
>> Ruth Anne Baumgartner
>> scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] The Proposal
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On 15:26 01/06/2004 ailith said
>Odd...the date on this message is May 16.
>
>Anyway--I tried the link and it doesn't work. But, I did go to your
>site and looked at your dolls. They're quite nifty! I quite like what
>you've done with their clothing.

Thank you! The page was a temporary one, but since the message took so 
long, I'll go and put it back up. The dolls are at the bottom of the dolls 
page on my website.
It should be back up now.
If it still doesn't work, they are here as well:
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/lynneconnolly/dolls1.htm

Lynne Connolly, GSOLFOT
The latest Richard and Rose adventure, HARLEY STREET, is here!
http://www.novelbooksinc.com/>Novelbooks Inc.
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/lynneconnolly/ <http://www.awe-struck.net/>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: The Proposal
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On 15:26 01/06/2004 ailith said
>Odd...the date on this message is May 16.
>
>Anyway--I tried the link and it doesn't work. But, I did go to your
>site and looked at your dolls. They're quite nifty! I quite like what
>you've done with their clothing.

Thank you! The page was a temporary one, but since the message took so 
long, I'll go and put it back up. The dolls are at the bottom of the dolls 
page on my website.
It should be back up now.


Lynne Connolly, GSOLFOT
The latest Richard and Rose adventure, HARLEY STREET, is here!
http://www.novelbooksinc.com/>Novelbooks Inc.
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/lynneconnolly/ <http://www.awe-struck.net/>

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Ideas for Desdemona's dress (from Othello)
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Hi all,

Thanks for the suggestions, they are all great.  However...  She is
not going to play or portray Desdemona herself.  In fact, she won't
even be wearing the gown.  (Sorry if I did not clearly explain that
in my original post.)  The dress will be displayed and it needs to
represent Desdemona's character.  That's why we were adding the
handkerchief, because there is a scene where Othello talks about it
and it's supposed to represent "the magic of love".  My daughter
chose the light pink color to represent that D was innocent of the
charges brought against her.

Our problem is that we can't think of anymore symbols to incorporate
into the gown.  (I've never read/seen "Othello" so I'm not able to
help her much.)  I like Mari's idea of adding the ribbons/ties, so I
will pass that on to her to see what she thinks.

BTW, she is using the Simplicity "Ever After" pattern (don't remember
the number offhand), view C which is the simplest.  This is only the
2nd or 3rd thing that she has sewn, so I thought it would be best to
keep it simple.  (Besides, I doubt the teacher or anyone in her class
will know what "real Venetian" clothing looked like anyway!!)

Thanks again!
~Mary

> From: "Cindy Abel" <brujne@creighton.edu>
>  Depends on how much research you and she want to do. Simplicity
> carries a
> lot of "Rennaissance" era costumes that are varying degrees of
> accurate. Is
> her class reproducing costumes that might have been worn in
> Shakespeare's
> era or what was historically correct in the times the plays were
> set?
> 
> She might also want to rent the VHS of Othello of several years
> ago,
> starring Lawrence Fishburne as Othello if she is looking for
> historically
> accurate costumes that are of about Shakespeare's time as worn in
> Venice.
> She could also look at film stills or play photos of other
> productions of
> Othello for ideas. Bear in mind that all productions, will reflect,
> especially in women's costuming, hair, and makeup, whatever was the
> current
> aesthetic of attractiveness.
> 
> Cindy Abel
> 
> ------------------------------
> From: M Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu>
> Hey Mary...
> 
>          I love Shakespeare so forgive me if this is too bard
> heavy...
> 
> I have heard Desdemona portrayed in many lights innocent victim, 
> independent woman, pawn etc. etc.  But one of the most intersting
> opinions 
> I have heard argued is that she is a character from one of
> Shakespeare's 
> Comedys who wandered into a Tragedy.  It's an interesting viewpoint
> and 
> quite arguable from the behaviour of Desdamona in the first two
> acts.
> 
> So that being said...
> 
> Desdamona is often seen as passive and done in by forces around her
> - BUT 
> remember she tells her father in the first act that she is a wife
> now,  and 
> therefore owing her obedience to her husband...  not a wilting
> flower in 
> that action.
> 
> She is also a wife so she would dress modestly.  Many, many
> directors and 
> costume designers choose to have her hair uncovered...   a thing I
> disagree 
> with.
> 
> The play is initially set in Venice and then moves to Cyprus.  So
> Venetian 
> costume is a very good place to start.
> 
> Something I wonder about... playing off the Venetian costume
> idea...
>          What about a dress that is Ribbon or tie heavy...  tied
> across the 
> bodice,  two part sleeves tied at the shoulder, and along the
> forearm...
>          and as we first see D. in Venice all her ties are done up,
>  she is 
> in order,  as is her world...
>          When she arrives in Cyprus her ties are disheveled,
> perhaps she is 
> seen straightening or retying them
>          As the play progresses,  Say by the garden scene,  the
> lower 
> sleeves are gone - things coming undone.
>          And in the nighttime scenes the dress is undone, and
> removed... 
> civilizing forces are gong, all is unrestrained.
> 
> OK...  that's it for now... gotta go work.  Mari / Bridgette
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
 From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
> 
> You know, if I saw a play in which the character's clothes were 
> progressively more 'undone' in each scene I don't think I'd be
> thinking 
> about the representation of loss of control and civilizing forces,
> I'd 
> be wondering if she was going to show up naked in the final act. :)
> 
> 
> 
> Dawn
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
 From: AlbertCat@aol.com
> 
> I also recommend the Zefferelli film of Verdi's opera "Otello". 
> 
> I might add that Desdemona is not so very innocent....though
> certainly of the 
> crimes she's accused in the play. Naive is a good word.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
 From: AlbertCat@aol.com
> 
> Of course she IS marrying a black man in the Renn. So I don't think
> she's so 
> very "modest"...in the conservative sense. She might have a problem
> with that 
> even today.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> From: ruthanne baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
> 
> If she's not going for a particular place or period but just a
> "feel,"
> Simplicity 2806 (formerly P477) is very lovely. I used this to
> costume a
> "young innocent" in a revenge-tragedy parody I wrote (set in the
> Kingdom of
> Inania, set in that well-known historic period "yore").
> 
> The sleeves on the high-waisted undergown are beautiful and very
> feminine
> and rich. The overgown makes the costume more formal. I made this
> costume
> with a pale-pink undergown with white puffs in the sleeves and a
> silvery-taupe overgown.
> 
> The reason I think of this pattern is that alone the undergown says
> either
> Simple Gown or even Nightgown, and if your daughter is doing
> Desdemona she
> might want this day/night suggestion. The open neckline makes the
> neck seem
> very vulnerable, especially apt for a lady who dies of strangling.
> The
> overgown adds the Grown-up note that makes the girl a woman, also
> appropriate to the newly-wed Des. (I'd disregard the head-dress on
> this
> pattern.) 
> 
> Again, I don't see this pattern as conveying a particular time and
> place
> with authenticity, but it does have a good "Shakespearean" feel. If
> I were
> doing Othello I'd consider this costume pattern.
> 
> Hope this helps! 
> 
> Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
> 


=====
"Pictures of perfection, as you know, make me sick & wicked."
~ Jane Austen

"Right now I'm having amnesia and deja vu at the same time.  I think I've forgotten this before."      ~ Steven Wright
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <6.0.0.14.0.20040601182110.023b5948@pop.ntlworld.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Proposal
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2004 20:56:58 +0200
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Hi Lynne,
Very lovely dolls you made here. And you caught the essentials of each
period very well, and this is not easy in such small dolls.
Congratulations!

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lynne Connolly" <lynneconnolly@ntlworld.com>
To: "h-costume-indra.com" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 2004 7:40 PM
Subject: [h-cost] The Proposal


> On 15:26 01/06/2004 ailith said
> >Odd...the date on this message is May 16.
> >
> >Anyway--I tried the link and it doesn't work. But, I did go to your
> >site and looked at your dolls. They're quite nifty! I quite like what
> >you've done with their clothing.
>
> Thank you! The page was a temporary one, but since the message took so
> long, I'll go and put it back up. The dolls are at the bottom of the dolls
> page on my website.
> It should be back up now.
> If it still doesn't work, they are here as well:
> http://homepage.ntlworld.com/lynneconnolly/dolls1.htm
>
> Lynne Connolly, GSOLFOT
> The latest Richard and Rose adventure, HARLEY STREET, is here!
> http://www.novelbooksinc.com/>Novelbooks Inc.
> http://homepage.ntlworld.com/lynneconnolly/ <http://www.awe-struck.net/>
>


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Date: Tue, 01 Jun 2004 15:08:45 -0400
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Ideas for Desdemona's dress (from Othello)
From: ruthanne baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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A symbol she might want to add is a willow branch--perhaps she could make a
garland of willow for Desdemona's hair? Desdemona sings the sad little
"Willow Song" just before Othello arrives to kill her.

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

on 6/1/04 2:51 PM, Mary at hanstar88@yahoo.com wrote:

> Hi all,
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions, they are all great.  However...  She is
> not going to play or portray Desdemona herself.  In fact, she won't
> even be wearing the gown.  (Sorry if I did not clearly explain that
> in my original post.)  The dress will be displayed and it needs to
> represent Desdemona's character.  That's why we were adding the
> handkerchief, because there is a scene where Othello talks about it
> and it's supposed to represent "the magic of love".  My daughter
> chose the light pink color to represent that D was innocent of the
> charges brought against her.
> 
> Our problem is that we can't think of anymore symbols to incorporate
> into the gown.  (I've never read/seen "Othello" so I'm not able to
> help her much.)  I like Mari's idea of adding the ribbons/ties, so I
> will pass that on to her to see what she thinks.
> 
> BTW, she is using the Simplicity "Ever After" pattern (don't remember
> the number offhand), view C which is the simplest.  This is only the
> 2nd or 3rd thing that she has sewn, so I thought it would be best to
> keep it simple.  (Besides, I doubt the teacher or anyone in her class
> will know what "real Venetian" clothing looked like anyway!!)
> 
> Thanks again!
> ~Mary
> 
>> From: "Cindy Abel" <brujne@creighton.edu>
>> Depends on how much research you and she want to do. Simplicity
>> carries a
>> lot of "Rennaissance" era costumes that are varying degrees of
>> accurate. Is
>> her class reproducing costumes that might have been worn in
>> Shakespeare's
>> era or what was historically correct in the times the plays were
>> set?
>> 
>> She might also want to rent the VHS of Othello of several years
>> ago,
>> starring Lawrence Fishburne as Othello if she is looking for
>> historically
>> accurate costumes that are of about Shakespeare's time as worn in
>> Venice.
>> She could also look at film stills or play photos of other
>> productions of
>> Othello for ideas. Bear in mind that all productions, will reflect,
>> especially in women's costuming, hair, and makeup, whatever was the
>> current
>> aesthetic of attractiveness.
>> 
>> Cindy Abel
>> 
>> ------------------------------
>> From: M Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu>
>> Hey Mary...
>> 
>> I love Shakespeare so forgive me if this is too bard
>> heavy...
>> 
>> I have heard Desdemona portrayed in many lights innocent victim,
>> independent woman, pawn etc. etc.  But one of the most intersting
>> opinions 
>> I have heard argued is that she is a character from one of
>> Shakespeare's 
>> Comedys who wandered into a Tragedy.  It's an interesting viewpoint
>> and 
>> quite arguable from the behaviour of Desdamona in the first two
>> acts.
>> 
>> So that being said...
>> 
>> Desdamona is often seen as passive and done in by forces around her
>> - BUT 
>> remember she tells her father in the first act that she is a wife
>> now,  and 
>> therefore owing her obedience to her husband...  not a wilting
>> flower in 
>> that action.
>> 
>> She is also a wife so she would dress modestly.  Many, many
>> directors and 
>> costume designers choose to have her hair uncovered...   a thing I
>> disagree 
>> with.
>> 
>> The play is initially set in Venice and then moves to Cyprus.  So
>> Venetian 
>> costume is a very good place to start.
>> 
>> Something I wonder about... playing off the Venetian costume
>> idea...
>> What about a dress that is Ribbon or tie heavy...  tied
>> across the 
>> bodice,  two part sleeves tied at the shoulder, and along the
>> forearm...
>> and as we first see D. in Venice all her ties are done up,
>> she is 
>> in order,  as is her world...
>> When she arrives in Cyprus her ties are disheveled,
>> perhaps she is 
>> seen straightening or retying them
>> As the play progresses,  Say by the garden scene,  the
>> lower 
>> sleeves are gone - things coming undone.
>> And in the nighttime scenes the dress is undone, and
>> removed... 
>> civilizing forces are gong, all is unrestrained.
>> 
>> OK...  that's it for now... gotta go work.  Mari / Bridgette
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ------------------------------
>> 
> From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
>> 
>> You know, if I saw a play in which the character's clothes were
>> progressively more 'undone' in each scene I don't think I'd be
>> thinking 
>> about the representation of loss of control and civilizing forces,
>> I'd 
>> be wondering if she was going to show up naked in the final act. :)
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Dawn
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ------------------------------
> From: AlbertCat@aol.com
>> 
>> I also recommend the Zefferelli film of Verdi's opera "Otello".
>> 
>> I might add that Desdemona is not so very innocent....though
>> certainly of the
>> crimes she's accused in the play. Naive is a good word.
>> 
>> 
>> ------------------------------
>> 
> From: AlbertCat@aol.com
>> 
>> Of course she IS marrying a black man in the Renn. So I don't think
>> she's so 
>> very "modest"...in the conservative sense. She might have a problem
>> with that 
>> even today.
>> 
>> 
>> ------------------------------
>> 
>> From: ruthanne baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
>> 
>> If she's not going for a particular place or period but just a
>> "feel,"
>> Simplicity 2806 (formerly P477) is very lovely. I used this to
>> costume a
>> "young innocent" in a revenge-tragedy parody I wrote (set in the
>> Kingdom of
>> Inania, set in that well-known historic period "yore").
>> 
>> The sleeves on the high-waisted undergown are beautiful and very
>> feminine
>> and rich. The overgown makes the costume more formal. I made this
>> costume
>> with a pale-pink undergown with white puffs in the sleeves and a
>> silvery-taupe overgown.
>> 
>> The reason I think of this pattern is that alone the undergown says
>> either
>> Simple Gown or even Nightgown, and if your daughter is doing
>> Desdemona she
>> might want this day/night suggestion. The open neckline makes the
>> neck seem
>> very vulnerable, especially apt for a lady who dies of strangling.
>> The
>> overgown adds the Grown-up note that makes the girl a woman, also
>> appropriate to the newly-wed Des. (I'd disregard the head-dress on
>> this
>> pattern.) 
>> 
>> Again, I don't see this pattern as conveying a particular time and
>> place
>> with authenticity, but it does have a good "Shakespearean" feel. If
>> I were
>> doing Othello I'd consider this costume pattern.
>> 
>> Hope this helps!
>> 
>> Ruth Anne Baumgartner
>> scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
>> 
> 
> 
> =====
> "Pictures of perfection, as you know, make me sick & wicked."
> ~ Jane Austen
> 
> "Right now I'm having amnesia and deja vu at the same time.  I think I've
> forgotten this before."      ~ Steven Wright
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Ideas for Desdemona's dress (from Othello)
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-----Original Message-----

A symbol she might want to add is a willow branch--perhaps she could make a
garland of willow for Desdemona's hair? Desdemona sings the sad little
"Willow Song" just before Othello arrives to kill her.

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

*****************
If she uses the willow symbol, perhaps is she is skilled and not in a hurry,
she could embroider the willow onto the handkerchief.

De

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Proposal
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On 19:56 01/06/2004 Bjarne og Leif Drews said
>Very lovely dolls you made here. And you caught the essentials of each
>period very well, and this is not easy in such small dolls.
>Congratulations!

Thank you! I have found that sometimes it's better to go with the pattern 
as used at the time, so I do research construction techniques carefully. 
You do sometimes have to simplify, but when you make an eighteenth century 
sacque the way they did, it works out surprisingly well, even in 1/12th scale!


Lynne Connolly, GSOLFOT
The latest Richard and Rose adventure, HARLEY STREET, is here!
http://www.novelbooksinc.com/>Novelbooks Inc.
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/lynneconnolly/ <http://www.awe-struck.net/>

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jun  1 16:48:55 2004
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From: "Brandy Deming" <queenscorner@verizon.net>
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Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2004 13:46:47 -0700
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Subject: [h-cost] How They Grow
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I have been trying to come up with some ideas how to modify patterns for children so they can be easily adjusted for growth. I have come across interesting ideas and would like more. Any ideas?

So far I have adding an inch or two along the sides of dresses and then using elastic to give some room for growth and double hemming clothes so one hem could be let out and still have a second for an extra few inches in length.

Thanks,

Brandy
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Subject: [h-cost] Thread -Silk and other
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So, I just orded some silk thread from "www.threadthings.com"   two of 
their Tire 800m of machine twist  silk -one black and one whilte.   I 
have been using it abunch lately cause i have been making mundain slacks 
out of wool(lightweight)  and   some silk t-tunics for a firend.  He 
wants me to use only silk thread on his silk and he is paying the 
thread.   Each spool was $27.  Is this a good price for silk thread?

Has anyone noticed a difference using silk thread in their projects?  I 
know i have become addicted to using it for my tailor's  marks atleast 
as it is so much easer to pul out then regular thread if i happen to sew 
over.

Also, has anyone used   linen  or wool thread in their sewing (not 
decratice, in constuction) ?  Where can one obtain these?

Jordana

sorry for the amount of typos-my keyborad seems to be on the fritz AGAIN.



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Subject: [h-cost] Symbols and opinions Re: Ideas for Desdemona's dress 
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-----Original Message-----
Hi all,

Thanks for the suggestions, they are all great.  However...  She is
not going to play or portray Desdemona herself.  In fact, she won't
even be wearing the gown.  (Sorry if I did not clearly explain that
in my original post.)  The dress will be displayed and it needs to
represent Desdemona's character.  That's why we were adding the
handkerchief, because there is a scene where Othello talks about it
and it's supposed to represent "the magic of love".  My daughter
chose the light pink color to represent that D was innocent of the
charges brought against her.

Our problem is that we can't think of anymore symbols to incorporate
into the gown.  (I've never read/seen "Othello" so I'm not able to
help her much.)  I like Mari's idea of adding the ribbons/ties, so I
will pass that on to her to see what she thinks.

BTW, she is using the Simplicity "Ever After" pattern (don't remember
the number offhand), view C which is the simplest.  This is only the
2nd or 3rd thing that she has sewn, so I thought it would be best to
keep it simple.  (Besides, I doubt the teacher or anyone in her class
will know what "real Venetian" clothing looked like anyway!!)

Thanks again!
~Mary

******
Just my opinions:
*Sad. I'm one of those people that feel if you are going to make a gown it
should be worn. :)The dress could be worn as Ren garb after it is finished
being on display.
*A Venetian dress and chemise is easier than the "Ever-After" dress. (see
"Realms of Venus" online) There are patterns that can be slightly adapted.
*This is an opportunity to show historic costume and not whimsical costume.
And sometimes with the right history teacher can give extra credit for
research.
                    *
Pink is the color of childlike innocence, naivete, feminine youth, child
like qualities.

White is the color of purity, a character unstained

Yellow is brightness, strength, energy.

Perhaps a white dress accented with yellow and pink.
If you use ribbon for the ties and they are functional ties, use grosgrain,
they hold better.
You could line the dress with the pale pink and yellow ribbon for the ties.
If you use metallic for trim, use silver or very little gold. Think silver =
white and gold = yellow. Also, silver is passive and gold is aggressive.

Pearls = a passive gem compared to diamonds, sorrow (tears of the ocean),
childlike innocence, purity, the sea/ocean.
Pearl drops on the dress and on the four corners of the handkerchief could
represent the tragedy.
Round pearls on the dress - Venice

De

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jun  1 16:59:03 2004
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Subject: [h-cost] Source for Edwardian and Art Deco style jewelry
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http://www.exoticindiaart.com/

I am currently browsing their silver + semiprecious stone necklaces and 
finding some nice-looking festoon, drop, and chandelier styles at lower 
prices than when these are sold as historic reproductions.  Let alone 
originals, and BTW I suspect a fair number of the "antique" moonstone 
necklaces that show up on the market are recent imports from India.  
Their catalog also has a lot of jewelry that is definitely not antique 
looking (at least not Western style antique) so you have to browse 
through it.  They also have saris and a lot of other stuff I haven't 
looked through yet.

Fran
Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com

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using tucks across the hem, bottom of the waist and on the sleeve also
can be let out for growth.   if the pattern is for a close fitting
neckline, be sure to cut on the line for the older child so the neck
doesn't get to tight. 
	For pants  you need to allow extra crotch room as they grow, perhaps
with extra fabric hidden in the waistband?  
	One thing I have never been able to see how to overcome is the problem
of the hidden fabric being much newer, due to it not having been worn by
friction nor exposed to sun.   it even has a heavier hand.   
	Anyway, Hope this helps.   Kitty




Brandy Deming wrote:
> 
> I have been trying to come up with some ideas how to modify patterns for children so they can be easily adjusted for growth. I have come across interesting ideas and would like more. Any ideas?
> 
> So far I have adding an inch or two along the sides of dresses and then using elastic to give some room for growth and double hemming clothes so one hem could be let out and still have a second for an extra few inches in length.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Brandy
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Cindy Abel" <brujne@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] How They Grow
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2004 16:23:31 -0500
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 Grow tucks were often used in skirts for girls--they survive as decoration
today. Possibly this was also maybe the original intent of smocking--as ways
to make cloth fit as opposed to actually cutting it.I've often wondered if
it was both a way to take in an adult(or older child's)garment to fit a
child and then let out the tucks(possibly covering the let out seams with
trim or braid of some sort that survives as decorative trim on so many
traditional "folk costumes" people make today.

Cindy Abel

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Symbols and opinions Re: Ideas for Desdemona's dress 
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In a message dated 6/1/2004 4:56:31 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
otsisto@socket.net writes:

> Pearl drops on the dress and on the four corners of the handkerchief could
> represent the tragedy.
> 

BTW....the handkerchief is embroidered with strawberries, if I'm remembering 
correctly. Do they have significance? My guess is they mean something.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] How They Grow
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On mine, when I did this, I put a small bit of trim, or bias tape cut from a
fancy material, on either side of the untucked fabric.  It becomes a design
feature. I did do big tuck, 2-3 inches.

Susan in Bellevue

> One thing I have never been able to see how to overcome is the problem
> of the hidden fabric being much newer, due to it not having been worn by
> friction nor exposed to sun.   it even has a heavier hand.
> Anyway, Hope this helps.   Kitty


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Thread -Silk and other
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Hi Jordana,

I just tried viewing the threadthings site, and I can't seem to reach it 
right now. But then I lost google a couple of days ago for two whole days. 
Problems up the pipe I guess on my end.

I love using silk threads as well, but I have mostly been using them for 
bastings and decorations. I was told by several silk fiber artists not to 
use silk threads on silk fabrics, because it is better for silk fabrics to 
break at the threads, than to break at the fabrics. They preferred all 
cotton threads, like Mettler silk finish 100% cotton thread. The seams will 
then break at the thread, which can be resewn, instead of the silk fabric 
tearing.

And as to the cost of silk thread, I got one of my spools from Qualin 
International, which I found on e-Bay (besilk). Their 5000 meter natural 
white silk thread was $29.99 a spool, although I got mine a little less 
from an auction. I plan on using the silk threads for machine sewing light 
leather, and for decorative uses.

I have not used wool or linen sewing thread, but you may be able to find 
that at lacis, in Berkeley CA. www.lacis.com

Kimiko



At 04:47 PM 6/1/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>So, I just orded some silk thread from "www.threadthings.com"   two of 
>their Tire 800m of machine twist  silk -one black and one whilte.   I have 
>been using it abunch lately cause i have been making mundain slacks out of 
>wool(lightweight)  and   some silk t-tunics for a firend.  He wants me to 
>use only silk thread on his silk and he is paying the thread.   Each spool 
>was $27.  Is this a good price for silk thread?
>
>Has anyone noticed a difference using silk thread in their projects?  I 
>know i have become addicted to using it for my tailor's  marks atleast as 
>it is so much easer to pul out then regular thread if i happen to sew over.
>
>Also, has anyone used   linen  or wool thread in their sewing (not 
>decratice, in constuction) ?  Where can one obtain these?
>
>Jordana
>
>sorry for the amount of typos-my keyborad seems to be on the fritz AGAIN.

Kimiko Small
Owner & Creator of DreamTime Studios
http://www.dreamtime-studios.com

"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: How They Grow
From: Lynn Downward <LDownward@chori.org>
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(I speak from experience)

When making children's costumes, remember that they grow UP faster than they
grow OUT. I put 3-5 1" tucks in chemises. One would look funny. Remember the
arm length too. I found that worked better than the extra hem, just as Wendy
mentioned in her message (below). If your children are going to wear
hoopskirts or heavy skirts of any kind, either sew the bodice to the skirt
or put suspenders on EVERY skirt. They have no hips and can just step out of
their skirts at the most inopportune times.

I also made peasant type chemises, even for my court babies, under the age
of 2. That way I could whip the front to the back after lunch and
hey-presto! a clean chemise in time for the queen's arrival and the
subsequent photos.

LynnD

On 6/1/04 2:29 PM, "zski@ripco.com" <zski@ripco.com> wrote:

> I woudl think rather than large hems (which will wear along the bottom)
> another option might be tucks done higher up on the skirt.
> 
> The folded edge will still get creased, so you'd want to add some trim when
> you let it down, but I think it would wear less than an actual hem that
> dragged on the ground.
> 
> I am currently planning "baby's first bodice" for a friend who is expecting
> in Sept.  I know it's not period, and she'll have plenty of basic chemises
> & tunics to crawl about in and wear out, but it's cuuute and appropriate
> for the little wench-ling we expect she will be.
> 
> Wendy Z
> ...you mean I'm NOT in Oklahoma?...
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Ideas for Desdemona's dress (from Othello)
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To reply to several posts at once...

>Ruth Anne baumgartner wrote:
> 
> A symbol she might want to add is a willow branch--perhaps she
> could make a
> garland of willow for Desdemona's hair? Desdemona sings the sad
> little
> "Willow Song" just before Othello arrives to kill her.
> 
> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
> 
>

I will run this by her, thanks for the suggestion!


> De wrote:
> If she uses the willow symbol, perhaps is she is skilled and not in
> a hurry,
> she could embroider the willow onto the handkerchief.
> 
> De
> 
> 

She does embroider, and neither do I, and the project has to be
completed before the end of school.  But good idea anyway!


>De wrote:
> Just my opinions:
> *Sad. I'm one of those people that feel if you are going to make a
> gown it
> should be worn. :)The dress could be worn as Ren garb after it is
> finished
> being on display.

She will probably wear it later on, just not now for this project.

> *A Venetian dress and chemise is easier than the "Ever-After"
> dress. (see
> "Realms of Venus" online) There are patterns that can be slightly
> adapted.

Again, because of time constraints and my daughter's sewing
abilities, we are using the pattern as is.

> *This is an opportunity to show historic costume and not whimsical
> costume.
> And sometimes with the right history teacher can give extra credit
> for
> research.

The dress is for an English project, so I'm not sure if a bonus for
historical accuracy would be given.  I'll ask my daughter about it. 
She could include some Venetian paintings with her project.  

I'm sounding repetitious, but she is bound by time & skill
limitations.  I thought about her making a dress with tie on sleeves,
but decided that might make the dress too time-consuming.  She has to
fit the construction in with school, other school work, after school
job and dance class/rehearsals -- and I am *not* sewing it for her
(I'm not, I'm not, I'm not).  In the future, we could rework the
dress to make it more historically accurate (plus pink is not her
favorite color, so it will probably be dyed).

>                     *
> Pink is the color of childlike innocence, naivete, feminine youth,
> child
> like qualities.
> 
> White is the color of purity, a character unstained
> 
> Yellow is brightness, strength, energy.
> 
> Perhaps a white dress accented with yellow and pink.
> If you use ribbon for the ties and they are functional ties, use
> grosgrain,
> they hold better.
> You could line the dress with the pale pink and yellow ribbon for
> the ties.
> If you use metallic for trim, use silver or very little gold. Think
> silver =
> white and gold = yellow. Also, silver is passive and gold is
> aggressive.
> 
> Pearls = a passive gem compared to diamonds, sorrow (tears of the
> ocean),
> childlike innocence, purity, the sea/ocean.
> Pearl drops on the dress and on the four corners of the
> handkerchief could
> represent the tragedy.
> Round pearls on the dress - Venice
> 
> De
> 

The color ideas are great.  She has already started the dress in
pink, with white sleeves, etc.  Maybe should could add yellow
ribbons...


AlbertCat wrote:
> 
> BTW....the handkerchief is embroidered with strawberries, if I'm
> remembering 
> correctly. Do they have significance? My guess is they mean
> something.
> 
> 

Another good idea to run by my DD!


Thanks again sooo much for all your creative ideas.  Creativity is
not my strong point (numbers & logic are more my thing), so I was at
a loss on how to help her.


=====
"Pictures of perfection, as you know, make me sick & wicked."
~ Jane Austen

"Right now I'm having amnesia and deja vu at the same time.  I think I've forgotten this before."      ~ Steven Wright
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: symbols and strawberries Re:Ideas for Desdemona's dress
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Hi! Just unlurking for a mo...
AlbertCat mentioned the symbolism Shakespeare may have
intended with the embroidered strawberries on
Desdemona's handkerchief. In "Folk Lore of
Shakespeare" the author says that Elizabethans often
planted flowers near fruit trees so that the
"sweetness" would be communicated to the fruit.They
admired strawberries because they could grow anywhere
and still be sweet--able to thrive in the midst of
"evil communications without being corrupted".
This is perhaps the case with Desdemona until that
specific handkerchief goes astray?

=====
Art is not a mirror held up to reality but a hammer with which to shape it.   Bertolt Brecht


	
		
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I woudl think rather than large hems (which will wear along the bottom)
another option might be tucks done higher up on the skirt.

The folded edge will still get creased, so you'd want to add some trim when
you let it down, but I think it would wear less than an actual hem that
dragged on the ground.

I am currently planning "baby's first bodice" for a friend who is expecting
in Sept.  I know it's not period, and she'll have plenty of basic chemises
& tunics to crawl about in and wear out, but it's cuuute and appropriate
for the little wench-ling we expect she will be.

Wendy Z
...you mean I'm NOT in Oklahoma?...
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Subject: [h-cost] home economics & Sewing
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Apparently Home Ec is going the way of the Dodo and Passenger pigeon.  I was
trained as a home ec teacher but decided I didn't want to put up with the
bureaurocracy & red tape.  When I moved to San Diego (in a rural area, by
the way) I called the local high school to donate my sewing machine diagrams
and other teaching aides to them.  I was informed they had no sewing
classes!!!  Now that my kids have been through the local school system, I
know that they have a teeny tiny little class that covers a bit of cooking,
handling your check book, and for extra credit you can take home an
extremely obnoxious doll called "Baby Think It Over".  The idea is to show
the kids how much work a newborn is - and they only have to put up with the
crying.  No poop or barf to deal with.  (As a side note, they had a variant
of the doll, the crack baby, that got you even more extra credit.  The
school had to discontinue this practice because the students and parents
often returned to the school the next day hysterical.)

This is all so sad.  The home ec classes were some of the most practical and
valuable ones given - and now they're not.
Julie

>
>Do they do Home Economics and sewing any more?
>
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] cartridge pleating and skirt waistbands
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----- Original Message -----
From: "ruthanne baumgartner" <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, May 31, 2004 3:38 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] cartridge pleating and skirt waistbands


> Take a look: they're cartridge pleats. One thing that makes the
sandwiching
> possible is that they aren't very deep pleats; another is that the
sandwich
> isn't really flat.
<snip> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner

I don't have access to any academic robes, or Protestant clerical robes, so
I'm going to have to take peoples word for how they are constructed. Thanks
for the explanation from everyone though, it's now much clearer to me I just
didn't understand how you could sew a two layers of fabric together without
squishing whatever is in between flat. Now I understand that in fact you are
not sewing the two layers of fabric to each other but to opposite sides of
the cartridge pleats.
Elizabeth
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
Elizabeth Beaumont              Elizabeth Walpole
Politarchopolis, Lochac     Canberra Australia
             ewalpole@austar.net.au

People are like stained glass windows. They sparkle and shine when the sun
is out, but when the darkness sets in ,their true beauty is revealed only if
there is light from within.
Elizabeth Kubler-Ross

The years that a woman subtracts from her age are not lost. They are added
to the ages of other women.
Diane de Poitiers (1499-1566) Attrib.

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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPGEBECIAA.otsisto@socket.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: clothing and sunburn
Date: Mon, 31 May 2004 20:33:50 +1000
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----- Original Message -----
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, May 31, 2004 9:06 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: clothing and sunburn


> There is now a new medical recommendation for people. People seem to be
low
> on Vitamin D so it is recommended to get in the sun for about 2 minutes
> without sunscreen. This is recommended for those who tend to stay indoors
a
> lot.
>
> De

yes but you can get that much exposure going from your house to your car and
then into your office each day (or public transport). Then again here in
Australia they are constantly telling us about the dangers of sun because of
the ozone hole & more sunshine than you tend to get in most parts of
northern Europe. And vitamin D deficiency is rare round here unless you're
unable to get outside at all.
Elizabeth
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
Elizabeth Beaumont              Elizabeth Walpole
Politarchopolis, Lochac     Canberra Australia
             ewalpole@austar.net.au

People are like stained glass windows. They sparkle and shine when the sun
is out, but when the darkness sets in ,their true beauty is revealed only if
there is light from within.
Elizabeth Kubler-Ross

The years that a woman subtracts from her age are not lost. They are added
to the ages of other women.
Diane de Poitiers (1499-1566) Attrib.

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jun  1 19:31:17 2004
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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
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Subject: [h-cost] ISO Viking sewing machine pedal
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I'm patiently (or not so patiently :) trying to find and buy an _extra_ pedal assembly for my secondhand Viking. This is one of the older, all-metal models that I got a good deal on a few years ago, and I like it a lot -- I have costumer friends who have had the same model for 30 years and it's still working just fine.

The problem I have is that, the way I have mine set up, in order to unplug it from the wall and take it with me somewhere, I have to crawl under the worktable, untangle cords from boxes full of "stuff", move the worktable out from the wall (and it has full bookcases sitting on it) and persuade a stout electrical plug through a narrow opening. This is a whole lot of hassle, and as a result, I almost never take my sewing machine anywhere.

OTOH, if I had a second pedal, I could merely unplug my machine from its "home" cord, pack the machine up, throw the "extra" pedal assemblage into the traveling case, and go.

The model number is Viking 565, and the pedal assembly has two cords leading from a single unit that plugs into the back of the machine: one cord goes to the electrical outlet, the other to the foot pedal. 

I do have a "watch" out on eBay, and I see something similar maybe once a month, but so far it's always been an entire sewing machine plus pedal for sale (for too much money), a pedal that's for either a much earlier or later model, or something with a starting price around $50+. 

Anyone have leads on other sources for such bits of equipment?

____________________________________________________________
0  Chris Laning
|  <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: How They Grow
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2004 16:41:06 -0700
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I am not understanding the difference between "tucks" and hems, can you
explain?

B
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lynn Downward" <LDownward@chori.org>
To: "h costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 2004 3:05 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: How They Grow


> (I speak from experience)
>
> When making children's costumes, remember that they grow UP faster than
they
> grow OUT. I put 3-5 1" tucks in chemises. One would look funny. Remember
the
> arm length too. I found that worked better than the extra hem, just as
Wendy
> mentioned in her message (below). If your children are going to wear
> hoopskirts or heavy skirts of any kind, either sew the bodice to the skirt
> or put suspenders on EVERY skirt. They have no hips and can just step out
of
> their skirts at the most inopportune times.
>
> I also made peasant type chemises, even for my court babies, under the age
> of 2. That way I could whip the front to the back after lunch and
> hey-presto! a clean chemise in time for the queen's arrival and the
> subsequent photos.
>
> LynnD
>
> On 6/1/04 2:29 PM, "zski@ripco.com" <zski@ripco.com> wrote:
>
> > I woudl think rather than large hems (which will wear along the bottom)
> > another option might be tucks done higher up on the skirt.
> >
> > The folded edge will still get creased, so you'd want to add some trim
when
> > you let it down, but I think it would wear less than an actual hem that
> > dragged on the ground.
> >
> > I am currently planning "baby's first bodice" for a friend who is
expecting
> > in Sept.  I know it's not period, and she'll have plenty of basic
chemises
> > & tunics to crawl about in and wear out, but it's cuuute and appropriate
> > for the little wench-ling we expect she will be.
> >
> > Wendy Z
> > ...you mean I'm NOT in Oklahoma?...
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] home economics & Sewing
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2004 16:44:00 -0700
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I agree that it is a shame, art, music and home ec. were the first programs
to be thrown out the window.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Julie" <jtknits@cts.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 2004 3:51 PM
Subject: [h-cost] home economics & Sewing


> Apparently Home Ec is going the way of the Dodo and Passenger pigeon.  I
was
> trained as a home ec teacher but decided I didn't want to put up with the
> bureaurocracy & red tape.  When I moved to San Diego (in a rural area, by
> the way) I called the local high school to donate my sewing machine
diagrams
> and other teaching aides to them.  I was informed they had no sewing
> classes!!!  Now that my kids have been through the local school system, I
> know that they have a teeny tiny little class that covers a bit of
cooking,
> handling your check book, and for extra credit you can take home an
> extremely obnoxious doll called "Baby Think It Over".  The idea is to show
> the kids how much work a newborn is - and they only have to put up with
the
> crying.  No poop or barf to deal with.  (As a side note, they had a
variant
> of the doll, the crack baby, that got you even more extra credit.  The
> school had to discontinue this practice because the students and parents
> often returned to the school the next day hysterical.)
>
> This is all so sad.  The home ec classes were some of the most practical
and
> valuable ones given - and now they're not.
> Julie
>
> >
> >Do they do Home Economics and sewing any more?
> >
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jun  1 19:50:39 2004
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Date: Tue, 01 Jun 2004 16:49:49 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: How They Grow
From: Lynn Downward <LDownward@chori.org>
To: h costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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As we've been using it for this topic, a double hem is a hem that' turned
over and turned over again to make it huge. A tuck is a horizontal fold, of
any width. Then it gets sewn up and ironed down. If you make two or three
tucks in a row, it makes a pattern and shortens the skirt/chemise/whatever
by twice the width of the tuck/s.

I make as many in the sleeve as in the body for a child's chemise but make
them smaller, in proportion. As we said before they tend to grow taller
faster than they grow out.

LynnD

On 6/1/04 4:41 PM, "Brandy Deming" <queenscorner@verizon.net> wrote:

> I am not understanding the difference between "tucks" and hems, can you
> explain?
> 
> B
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lynn Downward" <LDownward@chori.org>
> To: "h costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 2004 3:05 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: How They Grow
> 
> 
>> (I speak from experience)
>> 
>> When making children's costumes, remember that they grow UP faster than
> they
>> grow OUT. I put 3-5 1" tucks in chemises. One would look funny. Remember
> the
>> arm length too. I found that worked better than the extra hem, just as
> Wendy
>> mentioned in her message (below). If your children are going to wear
>> hoopskirts or heavy skirts of any kind, either sew the bodice to the skirt
>> or put suspenders on EVERY skirt. They have no hips and can just step out
> of
>> their skirts at the most inopportune times.
>> 
>> I also made peasant type chemises, even for my court babies, under the age
>> of 2. That way I could whip the front to the back after lunch and
>> hey-presto! a clean chemise in time for the queen's arrival and the
>> subsequent photos.
>> 
>> LynnD
>> 
>> On 6/1/04 2:29 PM, "zski@ripco.com" <zski@ripco.com> wrote:
>> 
>>> I woudl think rather than large hems (which will wear along the bottom)
>>> another option might be tucks done higher up on the skirt.
>>> 
>>> The folded edge will still get creased, so you'd want to add some trim
> when
>>> you let it down, but I think it would wear less than an actual hem that
>>> dragged on the ground.
>>> 
>>> I am currently planning "baby's first bodice" for a friend who is
> expecting
>>> in Sept.  I know it's not period, and she'll have plenty of basic
> chemises
>>> & tunics to crawl about in and wear out, but it's cuuute and appropriate
>>> for the little wench-ling we expect she will be.
>>> 
>>> Wendy Z
>>> ...you mean I'm NOT in Oklahoma?...
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
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> 
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Date: Tue, 01 Jun 2004 16:50:39 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Katie Pleasance <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
Subject: [h-cost] ISO Viking sewing machine pedal
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Hmmm... couldn't you use an extension cord so that your pedal cord could 
plug in at a convenient location. I have power strips / extension cords all 
over the house so that I don't have to crawl under / over / around stuff to 
unplug something from the wall.

Katie

At 04:30 PM 6/1/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>I'm patiently (or not so patiently :) trying to find and buy an _extra_ 
>pedal assembly for my secondhand Viking. This is one of the older, 
>all-metal models that I got a good deal on a few years ago, and I like it 
>a lot -- I have costumer friends who have had the same model for 30 years 
>and it's still working just fine.
>
>The problem I have is that, the way I have mine set up, in order to unplug 
>it from the wall and take it with me somewhere, I have to crawl under the 
>worktable, untangle cords from boxes full of "stuff", move the worktable 
>out from the wall (and it has full bookcases sitting on it) and persuade a 
>stout electrical plug through a narrow opening. This is a whole lot of 
>hassle, and as a result, I almost never take my sewing machine anywhere.
>
>OTOH, if I had a second pedal, I could merely unplug my machine from its 
>"home" cord, pack the machine up, throw the "extra" pedal assemblage into 
>the traveling case, and go.



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>
> The model number is Viking 565, and the pedal assembly has two cords
> leading from a single unit that plugs into the back of the machine: one
> cord goes to the electrical outlet, the other to the foot pedal.
>
> I do have a "watch" out on eBay, and I see something similar maybe once
> a month, but so far it's always been an entire sewing machine plus pedal
> for sale (for too much money), a pedal that's for either a much earlier
> or later model, or something with a starting price around $50+.
>
> Anyone have leads on other sources for such bits of equipment?
>

Have you tried letting the local sewing machine repairmen know that you
would be interested if they took in a machine they couldn't repair?

also, try running a wanted ad in the local penny saver now and then.  if
somebody has an old machine sitting around unused, he or she might be
willing to sell you the machine for next to nothing just to get it out of
their hair.   then you would have a parts machine as well.   just
advertise for old viking parts machine, cause many people have their mom's
or wife's old machine and don't know or care what model it is.  then if it
isn't right you just tell them it isn't the right model after you see it.

My hubby bought me an old viking at the good will.  I hate it.  it is so
hard to use.   it must have been a bottom line machine, and I'm stuck with
it cause he bought it.   LOL  well, I'm glad to say I have several that I
do like using.   wish it was the right machine to help you, but I
seriously doubt it.   LOL
I'll check later.   Kitty


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Yeah ... that's what they have to do so that they can afford the security 
folk to protect the regular kids from the troublemakers that the schools 
aren't allowed to expel because it would be politically incorrect <frown>.

Katie

At 04:44 PM 6/1/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>I agree that it is a shame, art, music and home ec. were the first programs
>to be thrown out the window.



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In a message dated 6/1/2004 6:12:56 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
hanstar88@yahoo.com writes:

> The dress is for an English project,

Y'know there is something symbolic about an empty dress....if she doesn't 
wear it. It's a nod at the fact the Desdemona Othello thinks exists, doesn't.

But she should wear it.
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In a message dated 6/1/2004 4:52:57 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
jaurbik@optonline.net writes:
So, I just orded some silk thread from "www.threadthings.com"   two of 
their Tire 800m of machine twist  silk -one black and one whilte.   I 
have been using it abunch lately cause i have been making mundain slacks 
out of wool(lightweight)  and   some silk t-tunics for a firend.  He 
wants me to use only silk thread on his silk and he is paying the 
thread.   Each spool was $27.  Is this a good price for silk thread?

I've been purchasing my silk thread from www.uticathread.com - they have 925 
yard spools for $8 apiece plus shipping and handling, any color (well.  Any 
color from their color chart, which seems to be nice and large).  The 925 yards 
is in OO/00 (one of the two) machine thread, which seems to be about the 
standard thickness of polyester and cotton threads.  

Christine
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: symbols and strawberries Re:Ideas for Desdemona's
	dress
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In a message dated 6/1/2004 6:37:56 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
cyncorley@yahoo.com writes:

> Shakespeare may have
> intended with the embroidered strawberries on
> Desdemona's handkerchief.

I wonder if there are some already done up applique strawberries you could 
just buy and apply to a handkerchief? Or some you can cut from a printed fabric. 
Or you could paint them on.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: symbols and strawberries Re:Ideas for Desdemona's
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In a message dated 6/1/2004 6:37:56 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
cyncorley@yahoo.com writes:

> Shakespeare may have
> intended with the embroidered strawberries on
> Desdemona's handkerchief.

I wonder if there are some already done up applique strawberries you could 
just buy and apply to a handkerchief? Or some you can cut from a printed fabric. 
Or you could paint them on.
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A few people mentioned storage of information that comes up in conversation.
The H-Cost archives are located at http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/Fashion/ . There
is a basic search engine. It only searches the "Subject" and "From" headers
though, which is why having an appropriate subject line is Good. There are
also yearly summaries.
HTH,
Rebecca
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] home economics & Sewing
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2004 20:38:52 -0400
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What is eventually going to happen is that we will have tons and tons of
computer programmers and atheletes, but no actors, musicians, clothing
designers, writers....

Sheridan

----- Original Message -----
From: "Brandy Deming" <queenscorner@verizon.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 2004 7:44 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] home economics & Sewing


> I agree that it is a shame, art, music and home ec. were the first
programs
> to be thrown out the window.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Julie" <jtknits@cts.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 2004 3:51 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] home economics & Sewing
>
>
> > Apparently Home Ec is going the way of the Dodo and Passenger pigeon.  I
> was
> > trained as a home ec teacher but decided I didn't want to put up with
the
> > bureaurocracy & red tape.  When I moved to San Diego (in a rural area,
by
> > the way) I called the local high school to donate my sewing machine
> diagrams
> > and other teaching aides to them.  I was informed they had no sewing
> > classes!!!  Now that my kids have been through the local school system,
I
> > know that they have a teeny tiny little class that covers a bit of
> cooking,
> > handling your check book, and for extra credit you can take home an
> > extremely obnoxious doll called "Baby Think It Over".  The idea is to
show
> > the kids how much work a newborn is - and they only have to put up with
> the
> > crying.  No poop or barf to deal with.  (As a side note, they had a
> variant
> > of the doll, the crack baby, that got you even more extra credit.  The
> > school had to discontinue this practice because the students and parents
> > often returned to the school the next day hysterical.)
> >
> > This is all so sad.  The home ec classes were some of the most practical
> and
> > valuable ones given - and now they're not.
> > Julie
> >
> > >
> > >Do they do Home Economics and sewing any more?


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Date: Tue, 01 Jun 2004 18:27:37 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Thread -Silk and other
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At 08:16 PM 6/1/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>I've been purchasing my silk thread from www.uticathread.com - they have 925
>yard spools for $8 apiece plus shipping and handling, any color (well.  Any
>color from their color chart, which seems to be nice and large).  The 925 
>yards
>is in OO/00 (one of the two) machine thread, which seems to be about the
>standard thickness of polyester and cotton threads.
>
>Christine


Thanks Christine for sharing this info. I have been looking for a larger 
color range to match the leather I am working with.

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Owner & Creator of DreamTime Studios
http://www.dreamtime-studios.com

"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

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Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2004 07:37:29 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Heather Rose Jones <hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] central repository - really
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At 9:23 AM -0400 6/1/04, M Stewart wrote:
>Hi folks...   back to the topic in the topic...  ; >
>
>C wrote...
>
>>It's a great idea but may cause more harm than good.
>><snip>
>>The problem with pre-arranged archives of information is that they too
>>easily become law without question regardless of origin or research.
>
>I disagree.  Mainly because I am not talking about posting 
>definitive "This is how you do it"  types of information.  I was 
>envisioning more of "These are resources that are available" 
>information.
>
>For example,  the conversation about sleeveless chemises in pre 1600 
>Europe that sparked this idea produced a list of resources that 
>demonstrated the existence of such critters.  There was no attempt 
>to set a standard,  but there was a generation of resources from 
>many corners of the list.  That is what I would like to capture.
>
>Having, or creating,  a central repository would allow us to pool 
>our knowledge and resources.  And I must say that I think the 
>readers of this list are capable of taking one person's opinion as 
>just that,  one opinion.  So I wouldn't object to having "This is 
>how *I did it" articles.

It sounds like you're envisioning something like what "Stefan's 
Florilegium" does for rec.org.sca.  He basically mines the newsgroup 
(and other related resources) for pieces of information which he 
organizes topically in archives.  (He's also proactive about pointing 
people to it when he has archives relevant to a question being asked.)

The up side is that it's a handy "first stop" for many well-ploughed fields.

The down side is that the information isn't filtered at all for 
accuracy -- just for topic.  And unlike answers actively given in a 
list or group, if a reader is given something questionable, there 
isn't an opportunity for others to point out the issues and 
alternatives.  (I personally feel there aren't enough blinking neon 
caveats on the site -- but I can understand why that wouldn't be a 
priority.)

One take-home less of the Florilegium is that it happened because one 
man just sat down and started doing it.

Heather
-- 
*****
Heather Rose Jones
hrjones@socrates.berkeley.edu
*****
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] home economics & Sewing
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I remember being forced to take Home Ec (yeah, I said "forced") in 
JrHigh.  Back in the days when girls took HE, and boys took Shop.
I hated it--we had to make things like this tasteless nasty hamburger 
casserole thing, and the teacher wouldn't let us add any herbs or 
spices.  Ugh.  And it was useless--I'd been cooking family meals and 
sewing for *years* by that point.  I'd learned the sewing through 4-H, 
but Mom had taught me to cook when I was seven.
--sue's 2 pence worth

Julie wrote:

> This is all so sad.  The home ec classes were some of the most practical and
> valuable ones given - and now they're not.
> Julie



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Date: Tue, 01 Jun 2004 22:38:30 -0400
From: Kitty Felton <basyefelton@floodcity.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: How They Grow
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A hem is at the lower edge of the fabric, to hide the raw edge and
prevent fraying.  it can be deep as in the High quality clothing of old
or very narrow as in childrens clothes and jeans and just about all
ready to wear now days.   through the ages, the wider hems were a mark
of quality in the garment as it showed you weren't skimping on fabric,
and also allowed more versatility in alterations.   

a tuck is a fold of fabric anywhere through the body of the fabric,
Horizontally or vertically.   In the bodice it is usually vertical, in
the skirt USUALLY horizontal, but I have seen then vertical (probably
not historically correct) in the sleeve it can be either.   you can even
do them bothways to creat a grid, but this is a modern embellishment, I
don't think it would be correct for period clothing.  
	The fold is stitched at a regular width (1/4 inch isn't uncommonly
narrow for baby clothing and purely for decoration Pin tucks the width
of a pin are very attractive.   Tucks an inch wide or so are suitable
for heavy fabrics on a deep skirt) which you determine by deciding what
will look best on your fabric.   as noted before, a set of three or five
tucks is attractive and makes it a design feature.   

Kitty

Brandy Deming wrote:
> 
> I am not understanding the difference between "tucks" and hems, can you
> explain?
> 
> B
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lynn Downward" <LDownward@chori.org>
> To: "h costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 2004 3:05 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: How They Grow
> 
> > (I speak from experience)
> >
> > When making children's costumes, remember that they grow UP faster than
> they
> > grow OUT. I put 3-5 1" tucks in chemises. One would look funny. Remember
> the
> > arm length too. I found that worked better than the extra hem, just as
> Wendy
> > mentioned in her message (below). If your children are going to wear
> > hoopskirts or heavy skirts of any kind, either sew the bodice to the skirt
> > or put suspenders on EVERY skirt. They have no hips and can just step out
> of
> > their skirts at the most inopportune times.
> >
> > I also made peasant type chemises, even for my court babies, under the age
> > of 2. That way I could whip the front to the back after lunch and
> > hey-presto! a clean chemise in time for the queen's arrival and the
> > subsequent photos.
> >
> > LynnD
> >
> > On 6/1/04 2:29 PM, "zski@ripco.com" <zski@ripco.com> wrote:
> >
> > > I woudl think rather than large hems (which will wear along the bottom)
> > > another option might be tucks done higher up on the skirt.
> > >
> > > The folded edge will still get creased, so you'd want to add some trim
> when
> > > you let it down, but I think it would wear less than an actual hem that
> > > dragged on the ground.
> > >
> > > I am currently planning "baby's first bodice" for a friend who is
> expecting
> > > in Sept.  I know it's not period, and she'll have plenty of basic
> chemises
> > > & tunics to crawl about in and wear out, but it's cuuute and appropriate
> > > for the little wench-ling we expect she will be.
> > >
> > > Wendy Z
> > > ...you mean I'm NOT in Oklahoma?...
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> _______________________________________________
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From: Dawn Jacobson <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: ISO Viking sewing machine pedal
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Chris wrote: 
 
> I'm patiently (or not so patiently :) trying to find
> and buy an _extra_ pedal assembly for my secondhand
> Viking.

Hi Chris--

Call The Place That Sells Sewing Machines in Santa
Rosa (707-575-5259), tell them what you need, and they
can probably order it for you and even make
arrangements to ship it to you (so you don't have to
drive to Santa Rosa). They are the ONLY people I let
work on my machines--everybody else I've used does not
seem to be able to do a decent job.

Dawn

=====
Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are just the costumes we wear every day.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] central repository - really
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On Tuesday 01 June 2004 10:37 am, Heather Rose Jones wrote:
[snip]

> The up side is that it's a handy "first stop" for many well-ploughed
> fields.
>
> The down side is that the information isn't filtered at all for
> accuracy -- just for topic.  And unlike answers actively given in a
> list or group, if a reader is given something questionable, there
> isn't an opportunity for others to point out the issues and
> alternatives.  (I personally feel there aren't enough blinking neon
> caveats on the site -- but I can understand why that wouldn't be a
> priority.)

How much the lack of filtering for "accuracy" matters depends on what 
information you are collecting.  I think, for example, that a collection of 
images of period art, organized by country of origin and approximate date, 
would be an excellent resource, even though (especially?) it would require 
people to do additional research elsewhere to get the maximum benefit out of 
it.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A man cannot be too careful in the choice of his enemies." 
-Oscar Wilde
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] home economics & Sewing
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2004 20:06:54 -0700
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Sue, Oh I *totally agree*.  I also had been sewing and cooking for 7 in my
family (mom, 3 bros 3 sisters) since I was about 10.  When I was forced to
take home ec, sewing was the worst.  I was lucky that my cooking teacher's
teaching plan was for each student to bring the recipe of their favorite
whatever.  That way each kid had an opportunity to 'show-off' cooking
something they *liked* and only one time that they could cook something at
least had one chance to have made at home.  My contribution was the
strawberry jello cake.  Was a *smash hit*!  Sure made me feel good!

But the sewing portion was a disaster.  By the time I had to take the class,
I had already made a fully lined, sleeveless princess seamed wool jumper
(not a sweater) with a back zipper. It turned out wonderful and was a
perfect fit.  Not bad for my first attempt.  But in class I had to make an
apron and a drindle skirt, and use exactly the methods dictated by the
teacher.  It didn't matter if a student had a different (or it's just better
for her) way of doing things.  And if the finished work didn't look like
what she thought it was supposed to, the student had to rip it out and do it
again.  *sigh*.  I remember ripping out more than a few stitches!  If I
recall, I got a B.  I think it was because the teacher decided I just didn't
follow directions very well.  Ummm...she was right (hee hee hee).  I think
that's why I enjoy making my own patterns so much.

Ah well.  I learned more about being tolerant, realizing that there may be
more than 'just one way' to do something.  I figure, if it looks right and
the people are happy, that is what works for him/her.  Sometimes it takes
experiencing a situation to open the mind to other ideas.

Happy stitches!
Emer \ Gia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 2004 7:37 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] home economics & Sewing


> I remember being forced to take Home Ec (yeah, I said "forced") in
> JrHigh.  Back in the days when girls took HE, and boys took Shop.
> I hated it--we had to make things like this tasteless nasty hamburger
> casserole thing, and the teacher wouldn't let us add any herbs or
> spices.  Ugh.  And it was useless--I'd been cooking family meals and
> sewing for *years* by that point.  I'd learned the sewing through 4-H,
> but Mom had taught me to cook when I was seven.
> --sue's 2 pence worth
>
> Julie wrote:
>
> > This is all so sad.  The home ec classes were some of the most practical
and
> > valuable ones given - and now they're not.
> > Julie
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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From: Dawn Jacobson <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: home economics & Sewing (probably becoming OT)
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Katie wrote:
 
> Yeah ... that's what they have to do so that they
> can afford the security 
> folk to protect the regular kids from the
> troublemakers that the schools 
> aren't allowed to expel because it would be
> politically incorrect <frown>.

Actually, that's not the case in California (and the
high school I teach at has the highest expulsion rate
in the United States). For the past 7-10 years, there
has been two real "pushes": 1) EVERY kid is going to
the University of California or the California State
University, even if they have no interest in
attending, so their counselors push them to take
foreign languages, art classes, and lots of science,
math, and English so they meet the requirements to get
in; and 2) the requirements for graduation are
continually racheted up by the State and the Feds, so
the kids have to take remedial English, math, social
studies, and science just so they can graduate.
Vocational classes (home economics, "shop" classes,
computer classes, etc.) are expensive to operate, and
don't meet the requirements to enter the UC, so
students are steered away, and administrators cut
those to add more academic classes.

Sorry to seem so peevish about this, but I've watched
my school go from 40 sections of vocational classes to
15 in 5 years; during the same time we grew from a
3-year to a 4-year high school, with about 400
additional students.

Dawn

=====
Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are just the costumes we wear every day.
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] cartridge pleating and skirt waistbands
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2004 23:48:54 -0400
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On Thursday 27 May 2004 08:08 pm, Cynthia Virtue wrote:
[snip]
> A well-executed gown in the proper style for whatevery historical period
> you like, will look good on any size person.  Sure, if you're a size 24,
> you won't look like a slender woman, but you can look queenly or elegant
> or fashionable no matter what size you are, if you make the right choices.

Largely true, but I believe there are exceptions.  I'm barely 5 feet 1, and in 
the large-sleeved wide skirted styles of the mid-1890s I look like a 
misproportioned dwarf.  




-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A man cannot be too careful in the choice of his enemies." 
-Oscar Wilde
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: home economics & Sewing (probably becoming OT)
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Also, there is a cap on how many kids can be safely enrolled in a 
vocational class.  A teacher can not watch 32 kids at one time.  Since 
students are using equipment where they could injure themselves, class 
sizes must be smaller for supervision.  With caps of 24 students, most 
districts consider it "uneconomical" to have a vocational class when 
they could just as easily squeeze 32+ kids (especially the hazardous 
ones, since most schools do not expel problem children).
Three years ago we lost metal shop and two years ago we lost the wood 
shop and consumer ed (which was cooking, embroidery and life skills-with 
the babies)
We only offer art, band and one period of computers- with around 1000 
students at my California school.  Most of the kids are in remediation 
classes.
This generation will not have any understanding of sewing or learn to 
develop hobbies beyond videogames.
Back to lurk mode
Karolee Smiley

Dawn Jacobson wrote:

>Katie wrote:
> 
>  
>
>>Yeah ... that's what they have to do so that they
>>can afford the security 
>>folk to protect the regular kids from the
>>troublemakers that the schools 
>>aren't allowed to expel because it would be
>>politically incorrect <frown>.
>>    
>>
>
>Actually, that's not the case in California (and the
>high school I teach at has the highest expulsion rate
>in the United States). For the past 7-10 years, there
>has been two real "pushes": 1) EVERY kid is going to
>the University of California or the California State
>University, even if they have no interest in
>attending, so their counselors push them to take
>foreign languages, art classes, and lots of science,
>math, and English so they meet the requirements to get
>in; and 2) the requirements for graduation are
>continually racheted up by the State and the Feds, so
>the kids have to take remedial English, math, social
>studies, and science just so they can graduate.
>Vocational classes (home economics, "shop" classes,
>computer classes, etc.) are expensive to operate, and
>don't meet the requirements to enter the UC, so
>students are steered away, and administrators cut
>those to add more academic classes.
>
>Sorry to seem so peevish about this, but I've watched
>my school go from 40 sections of vocational classes to
>15 in 5 years; during the same time we grew from a
>3-year to a 4-year high school, with about 400
>additional students.
>
>Dawn
>
>=====
>Dawn Jacobson
>Vallejo, CA, USA
>
>Clothes are just the costumes we wear every day.
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>  
>

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Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2004 21:05:40 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] central repository - really
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At 9:23 AM -0400 6/1/04, M Stewart wrote:
>Hi folks...   back to the topic in the topic...  ; >
>
>C wrote...
>
>>It's a great idea but may cause more harm than good.
>><snip>
>>The problem with pre-arranged archives of information is that they too
>>easily become law without question regardless of origin or research.
>
>I disagree.  Mainly because I am not talking about posting 
>definitive "This is how you do it"  types of information.  I was 
>envisioning more of "These are resources that are available" 
>information.
>
>For example,  the conversation about sleeveless chemises in pre 1600 
>Europe that sparked this idea produced a list of resources that 
>demonstrated the existence of such critters.  There was no attempt 
>to set a standard,  but there was a generation of resources from 
>many corners of the list.  That is what I would like to capture.

Well, we sort of already have one, since this list does have 
archives. Here's the references, from about a year ago:

>Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 08:59:17 -0600
>From: Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com>
>
>If you go to: http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>You will see the following:
>
>ARCHIVES:
>To search by keyword, use Eric Praetzel's searchable archive at:
>http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/~fashion/archives
>Eric made some changes to the search method a few months ago that speed
>the search but reduce your ability to search to just the name and subject
>line ... not much use for many questions. I use the "old" search function,
>which I believe is still available from his main search page, and I hope
>it stays that way. Be as specific as you can in your search term (you can
>pick only one), and you'll get faster searches if you do only one year's
>worth of posts at a time.
>      The results are grouped by month, so when you click on one of the
>search results, you'll get that whole month's worth of postings -- a big
>download, but useful for reading whole threads.
>
>-- Method 2:
>For older archives (1993-1996), go to Franchesca Havas' site at
>http://www.io.com/~ches/h-costume/ . You can ftp or download zipped files.
>I'm not sure if Ches has later archives too. I hope *someone* is keeping
>them.

-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2004 21:44:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ISO Viking sewing machine pedal
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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I would recommend contacting these guys:

Meissner A-1 Household & Ind
Bus 80 & El Camino Ave, Sacramento, CA 95821
Phone: (916) 920-2121

They are a large warehouse business that sells industrial & home model
sewing machines & sergers.  They also have a repair shop.

I went to them when my dog chewed through my serger pedal cord, and they
gave me a replacement one for cheap AND repaired my original.  I remember
them having a box of "extra" pedals hanging around so they might already
have what you need.  And if not, they will probably know how to get one.

They also have the best parts department I have ever seen and keep almost
everything ON HAND.  So if you ever need parts and can't wait to have them
shipped, they are worth a drive if you are in northern California.

Good luck!

Diana Habra
www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"
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yes, if you make them as large as a larger woman would wear, but what if
you made them in proportion to your figure.  Instead of a ninety inch
circumfrence, maybe fifty would be adequate for the LOOK fo the period
without the dwarf look, and same with the sleeves.   
make them less wide, less poufy so that your silohette is in
proportion.   anyway, my 2cents worth, Kitty

Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
> 
> On Thursday 27 May 2004 08:08 pm, Cynthia Virtue wrote:
> [snip]
> > A well-executed gown in the proper style for whatevery historical period
> > you like, will look good on any size person.  Sure, if you're a size 24,
> > you won't look like a slender woman, but you can look queenly or elegant
> > or fashionable no matter what size you are, if you make the right choices.
> 
> Largely true, but I believe there are exceptions.  I'm barely 5 feet 1, and in
> the large-sleeved wide skirted styles of the mid-1890s I look like a
> misproportioned dwarf.
> 
> --
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
> 
> "A man cannot be too careful in the choice of his enemies."
> -Oscar Wilde
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: [h-cost] 1910 fans
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I have been asked what type of fan that a young woman would have used in 
1910.  Does anyone know of pictures that would illustrate them?  Preferably 
online so that I can email the address to my friend?

Thanks,
Jennifer

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Subject: [h-cost] ?pants/bloomers
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http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/wkclass/wk17.html

Can anyone guess what this woman has on her legs?
Looks like cuffed pants.

Also,
http://frazzledfrau.glittersweet.com/1530shansomporange.htm

The woman in green appears to have a greenish chemise. Any thoughts or
better picture?

De

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Subject: [h-cost] Graduation Costume History
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Tis' the season of graduations in the Northern Hemisphere.  So I have compiled an article about the History of Graduation Costumes.  You may access the article at: http://www.costumegallery.com/graduationcostume.htm .

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ?pants/bloomers
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There are two pictures by Lucas van Leyden showing respectively a milkmaid and a poor women wearing similar pants-like garments.  Maybe it's a poor person thing?  But what indeed are those garments?  N Kiel
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: otsisto<mailto:otsisto@socket.net> 
  To: Historic Costume<mailto:h-costume@net.indra.com> 
  Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2004 3:27 AM
  Subject: [h-cost] ?pants/bloomers


  http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/wkclass/wk17.html<http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/wkclass/wk17.html>

  Can anyone guess what this woman has on her legs?
  Looks like cuffed pants.

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I agree with you, Catherine, but in Heather's case, she was specifically 
referring to the Florilegium, and not to the general idea of such a 
thing.  Stefan (the guy who hosts the Flori-thingy) *doesn't* filter 
much--it's up to the folks using it.
That said, it's wonderful and I, at least, can easily get lost in it! ;o)
--sue

Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
> On Tuesday 01 June 2004 10:37 am, Heather Rose Jones wrote:
> [snip]
> 
> 
>>The up side is that it's a handy "first stop" for many well-ploughed
>>fields.
>>
>>The down side is that the information isn't filtered at all for
>>accuracy -- just for topic.  And unlike answers actively given in a
>>list or group, if a reader is given something questionable, there
>>isn't an opportunity for others to point out the issues and
>>alternatives.  (I personally feel there aren't enough blinking neon
>>caveats on the site -- but I can understand why that wouldn't be a
>>priority.)
> 
> 
> How much the lack of filtering for "accuracy" matters depends on what 
> information you are collecting.  I think, for example, that a collection of 
> images of period art, organized by country of origin and approximate date, 
> would be an excellent resource, even though (especially?) it would require 
> people to do additional research elsewhere to get the maximum benefit out of 
> it.



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Status: RO

Boy, it *does* look like something cuffed, doesn't it? I doubt it's 
pants, though...maybe some sort of leggings or hose?
I don't think the "woman in green" is wearing a green chemise.  If we're 
both looking at the same part of the painting (which displays kinda dark 
on my monitor :o(), It's her dress--I'm thinking, maybe it's two shades 
of green, or partly green and partly black? I'm definitely seeing two 
different colors on her right sleeve.
--sue, who likes both the outfits, but wonders what the decoration is on 
the apron in the first one....

De wrote:

> http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/wkclass/wk17.html
> 
> Can anyone guess what this woman has on her legs?
> Looks like cuffed pants.
> 
> Also,
> http://frazzledfrau.glittersweet.com/1530shansomporange.htm
> 
> The woman in green appears to have a greenish chemise. Any thoughts or
> better picture?
> 
> 


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 3, Issue 403
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Cynthia Virtue wrote:

>>> A well-executed gown in the proper style for whatevery historical period
>>> you like, will look good on any size person.  Sure, if you're a size 24,
>>> you won't look like a slender woman, but you can look queenly or elegant
>>> or fashionable no matter what size you are, if you make the right choices.
>> 
I have to disagree with this one. While it's certainly possible to make
things look PRETTY good, especially because tailoring allows you to
proportion things up and down, styles always favor a particular build and
size. It's possible to make beautiful Elizabethan gowns for large-sized
women, but it's not possible to make those gowns look like the ideal of the
period. It's possible to make pretty 1840s ballgowns for large-boned,
broad-shouldered women, but it's not possible to make them look like the
ideal of the period, which was for gently rounded, slope-shouldered, rather
short women. It's possible to make gorgeous Baroque gowns fit today's
supermodels, but think Uma Thermond in "Dangerous Liaisons" -- it won't look
quite right. If possible, I would recommend that people look for styles and
periods that favor their shapes. If that's not what you want, then by all
means make whatever period you like. There were always people who didn't fit
the ideal, so why not you? But recognize ahead of time that you won't look
like the picture postcard example. I would look terrible in flapper gear,
for example. No matter how much I made it fit, it would not flatter me.

Gail Finke

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Penny Ladnier wrote:

> Tis' the season of graduations in the Northern Hemisphere.  So I have compiled an article about the History of Graduation Costumes.  You may access the article at: http://www.costumegallery.com/graduationcostume.htm .

Thank you!  That's a nice summary.

I'm curious about the source of the gown being "the Benedictine habit." 
  Academic robes look very much (to me) like the gowns that were 
commonly worn by wealthy middle-class men in the 1400s, which derived 
from the houppelande.  Possibly a parallel development, then?

http://www.virtue.to/articles/images/1471_family_tree.jpg -- The two 
blue gowns, and maybe the red one.

Later: the scholar in The Ambassadors: 
http://employees.oneonta.edu/farberas/arth/Images/Ambassadors/Ambassadors.jpg

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent
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Gail & Scott Finke wrote:

> It's possible to make beautiful Elizabethan gowns for large-sized
> women, but it's not possible to make those gowns look like the ideal of the
> period.
(snip)
> means make whatever period you like. There were always people who didn't fit
> the ideal, so why not you? But recognize ahead of time that you won't look
> like the picture postcard example.

Right: if the picture postcard is a rail thin flapper, you're not going 
to look like that if you're 200 pounds.  But that is an extreme example. 
  There would be other appropriate choices from the flapper era.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jun  2 10:21:48 2004
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Thread -Silk and other
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2004 16:21:14 +0200
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My two cents with using silk thread on silk.
I always use silk thread on any silk fabric i use. I have never never found
that the silk thread is two hush on the silk fabric. I was teached to use it
in my Arts and Crafts school two.
Also for buttonholes i use silk thread.

Bjarne



----- Original Message ----- 
From: <IceGirlNIN@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2004 2:16 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Thread -Silk and other


> In a message dated 6/1/2004 4:52:57 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> jaurbik@optonline.net writes:
> So, I just orded some silk thread from "www.threadthings.com"   two of
> their Tire 800m of machine twist  silk -one black and one whilte.   I
> have been using it abunch lately cause i have been making mundain slacks
> out of wool(lightweight)  and   some silk t-tunics for a firend.  He
> wants me to use only silk thread on his silk and he is paying the
> thread.   Each spool was $27.  Is this a good price for silk thread?
>
> I've been purchasing my silk thread from www.uticathread.com - they have
925
> yard spools for $8 apiece plus shipping and handling, any color (well.
Any
> color from their color chart, which seems to be nice and large).  The 925
yards
> is in OO/00 (one of the two) machine thread, which seems to be about the
> standard thickness of polyester and cotton threads.
>
> Christine
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1910 fans
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Subject: [h-cost] 1910 fans


> I have been asked what type of fan that a young woman would have used in
> 1910.  Does anyone know of pictures that would illustrate them?
Preferably
> online so that I can email the address to my friend?
>
> Thanks,
> Jennifer
>
>

Hi!
Everything Oriental was all the rage during Edwards reign, a nicely painted
Japanese fan would probably do the trick. Added bonus, these are easy to
come by and very inexpensive.

Sheridan


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Subject: [h-cost] 1910 fans


> I have been asked what type of fan that a young woman would have used in
> 1910.  Does anyone know of pictures that would illustrate them?
Preferably
> online so that I can email the address to my friend?
>
> Thanks,
> Jennifer


Oops!
Forgot to send the pictures with my post :
http://shilohpostcards.com/p10537.jpg  (1910)
http://demode.tweedlebop.com/images/soir_deux.jpg   (1913)
http://www.lecurieux.com/ed/ed0060.htm  (1910)

And there is always this kind of fan (hee):
http://www.schenectadymuseum.org/archives11c.html

Sheridan


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Penny--in the colors, you left out "our" discipline, home economics, which is 
maroon.

Ann Wass
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Wow! Whatever you do, do *not* look at the prices!!

 http://www.vecerejewelers.com/catalog/2002/cat_nouveau.htm

Check out this page and the two after it...


Sheridan

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The recent posts about Home Ec have me wondering if there are any 
resources out there for teaching youngsters (AND others!) how to sew.  
I have been mulling over a plan to begin some classes in my area, but I 
have no idea what these classes would look like.  I particularly want 
to figure out the lesson plans for basic classes, so I could figure out 
how many classes, number of students, cost, etc.  Any advice or sources 
from you folks in costume-land?  I'm thinking it might be nice to set 
up a permanent classroom, complete with machines, by getting a grant.  
That way, the students can learn the basics before needing to purchase 
a machine of their own.

TIA,

Allison P.
allivox@comcast.net

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jun  2 11:38:53 2004
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In a message dated 6/2/2004 11:14:36 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
allison@aristotle.net writes:
The recent posts about Home Ec have me wondering if there are any 
resources out there for teaching youngsters (AND others!) how to sew.  
I have been mulling over a plan to begin some classes in my area, but I 
have no idea what these classes would look like.  I particularly want 
to figure out the lesson plans for basic classes, so I could figure out 
how many classes, number of students, cost, etc.  Any advice or sources 
from you folks in costume-land?  I'm thinking it might be nice to set 
up a permanent classroom, complete with machines, by getting a grant.  
That way, the students can learn the basics before needing to purchase 
a machine of their own.
Some fabric stores teach classes. Some of them have machines and some don't.
That was always the challenge I thought anyone would face in working at a 
place that didn't. But, if people bring their own machines, then each is 
different, and you have that to deal with.

Quite frankly, I think the idea of getting a grant to equip a classroom won't 
fly, but more power to you if you can.

There are probably as many lesson plans out there as there are instructors.

Perhaps someone with more recent experience can share with you. I haven't 
taught in some years. 

Ann Wass
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But gorgeous.

Fran

Shane & Sheridan wrote:

>Wow! Whatever you do, do *not* look at the prices!!
>
> http://www.vecerejewelers.com/catalog/2002/cat_nouveau.htm
>
>Check out this page and the two after it...
>
>
>Sheridan
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>  
>

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I've wanted to do this for years, and I searched for info a couple years
ago online.   There are lessons out there called something like teach me
to sew, which are modern.  they seemed expensive to me, but once you got
started it might be cheaper.   They even advertise them as a way to start
a class with a complete lesson plan and even ads to place, I think.

One resource I am looking into for my granddaughters (ages 8 and 4), given
the costume atmosphere we have going in our group of friends is the Mary
Frances series from the early 1900's.   I did a search on Bibliofind to
try to find it used and found it for half price or cheaper.   it is
available new from http://www.lacis.com/catalog/mfvict.html  They want 28
dollars, but I also found it from several Amazon sellers for 14 something
and from Amazon itself for 19.95 so beware where you buy anything.   If it
interests you, let me know and I will search my resources, who knows, we
might find it even cheaper.
Kitty


  I particularly want
> to figure out the lesson plans for basic classes, so I could figure out
> how many classes, number of students, cost, etc.  Any advice or sources
> from you folks in costume-land?  I'm thinking it might be nice to set
> up a permanent classroom, complete with machines, by getting a grant.
> That way, the students can learn the basics before needing to purchase
> a machine of their own.
>
> TIA,
>
> Allison P.
> allivox@comcast.net




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Lovely site, Lynn!

Arlys

On Tue, 01 Jun 2004 21:24:14 +0100 Lynne Connolly
<lynneconnolly@ntlworld.com> writes:
> On 19:56 01/06/2004 Bjarne og Leif Drews said
> >Very lovely dolls you made here. And you caught the essentials of 
> each
> >period very well, and this is not easy in such small dolls.
> >Congratulations!
> 
> Thank you! I have found that sometimes it's better to go with the 
> pattern 
> as used at the time, so I do research construction techniques 
> carefully. 
> You do sometimes have to simplify, but when you make an eighteenth 
> century 
> sacque the way they did, it works out surprisingly well, even in 
> 1/12th scale!
> 
> 
> Lynne Connolly, GSOLFOT
> The latest Richard and Rose adventure, HARLEY STREET, is here!
> http://www.novelbooksinc.com/>Novelbooks Inc.
> http://homepage.ntlworld.com/lynneconnolly/ 
> <http://www.awe-struck.net/>


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From: "Danielle Nunn-Weinberg" <dannw@eudoramail.com>
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Hi Hope,

Sorry I'm weighing in late here.  If you are looking for patterns to start off with I can recommend the Mantua Maker Regency Stays pattern and for the smock if you need a pattern, I would recommend the Kannick Korners one.  Both of these are based on extant items.  Wearing the correct stays as opposed to some of the cheats like the La Mode Bagatelle petticoat with bodice makes a huge difference.  I was amazed when I tried the Regency corset for the first time in April that you actually wind up looking like the portraits with your bust around your collarbone...  While I can't specifically address American fashions of the time, the most common error I see in reenactor's stuff is the side back seams not being in the correct place (should be on a curved diagonal approx. same place as the 16th c. ones you see in Alcega) and the armsceye resembling the modern one.  Many of the extant gowns I have seen have armsceye cut more toward the spine than modern ones.  Does that make sense?

I hope this helps.

Cheers,
Danielle

--------- Original Message ---------

>I'm leaping ahead a few centuries from my normal interests and 
>undertaking a Regency gown. Or, to be more specific, an American gown 
>circa 1812 or slightly earlier, for a "War of 1812" event this fall. 
>I've collected a bunch of links, images, and have the Arnold and Waugh 
>books, but, of course, wanted to ask the members here for advice.
>
>So:
>  - I want to start with underthings. Any advice about corset making. 
>Things to do, not to do, "gotcha's" etc.?
>  - layers? shift, corset, petticoat, pantalets?
>  - any recommendations about how "real life" American clothing would 
>differ from the English fashion plates or how up-to-date a fairly 
>well-off and fashionable American woman would dress in 1812?
>  - any "dead give aways' about design (ex.: sleeves in 1812 would look 
>like this, but by 1815 would not; the bodice in pre-1812 gowns would be 
>shaped like such-and-such but not like that, etc.)
>  - special advice for a gown for a woman of, ahem, mature years (49)
>  - should I be looking at day dresses or outdoor wear (many of the 
>events will be outdoors, some inside, one dancing event, but that's 
>during the day as well)
>  - fabric advice?
>
>I usually spend months looking at and collecting images before even 
>starting to think about sewing, but this time the timeline is a bit 
>shorter, so any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Oh yes, and I 
>want to go for as authentic as possible. Looking weird is OK--no need to 
>make concessions for 21st century standards of beauty.
>
>Thanks!!
>
>- Hope
>
>_______________________________________________
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>



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In a message dated 6/2/2004 12:05:52 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
dannw@eudoramail.com writes:
Many of the extant gowns I have seen have armsceye cut more toward the spine 
than modern ones.  Does that make sense?
I find this especially true for the very early 19th century--seems to be a 
holdover from the old 18th c. narrow back. But it seems to migrate more towards 
a "normal" position by the 1910s.
Ann Wass
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In a message dated 6/2/2004 12:05:52 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
dannw@eudoramail.com writes:
Many of the extant gowns I have seen have armsceye cut more toward the spine 
than modern ones.  Does that make sense?
I find this especially true for the very early 19th century--seems to be a 
holdover from the old 18th c. narrow back. But it seems to migrate more towards 
a "normal" position by the 1910s.
Ann Wass
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Ok, I guess I was a freak.  As the eldest of five, I could cook and sew
by the time I started JR High, but I looked forward to my 9 weeks of
sewing and cooking.   I was excited, maybe cause I would have a certain
block of time I was SUPPOSED to sew.  I was very dissapointed to find I
had to share a sewing machine, but I managed to sew 7 or eight of those
aprons torn from a yard of fabric in the time it took the other girls to
sew one.   
	by the time christmas rolled around, I had learned a little bit about
showing off though. LOL I got the guilts at my showing off and began to
help the other girls.   So I may not have learned much about sewing, but
I learned.   
	as for cooking, we had a pretty good teacher for that too, she had us
cooking pretty interesting stuff and using spices and cooking ethnic
foods.   
	all in all, I would have to say I had a good Home Ec experience.   I
would have liked to be a Home Ec teacher.  but I might not have been a
good one, I never was able to teach my kids how to boil water.   
	Kitty

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Actually I SEWED my finger once...

I sewed right through the tip of my left pointer. I was trying to sew dark material with a sewing machine sitting on the floor, with my primary light behind me....

<sigh> Missed the nail thankfully....

And also, we sit and dream and hope that others are dreaming the same dream.

Katheryne

----- Original Message -----
From: Christopher Ballis <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
> 
 As I explained to a group of studentcostumers who had the recent mis-fortune to have me speak to them, costuming can be a solitary pursuit: costumers scramble away at their work and pop their heads up every three months for a quick look around before gettingonto the next project. It is nice to know there are others out there hammering their thumbs and catching their fingers under size 18 machineneedles,
> 
> -C.

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] ?pants/bloomers
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2004 11:33:16 -0500
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-----Original Message-----
<Boy, it *does* look like something cuffed, doesn't it? I doubt it's
pants, though...maybe some sort of leggings or hose?>

She's bare foot so it isn't hose.

<I don't think the "woman in green" is wearing a green chemise.  If we're
both looking at the same part of the painting (which displays kinda dark
on my monitor :o(), It's her dress--I'm thinking, maybe it's two shades
of green, or partly green and partly black? I'm definitely seeing two
different colors on her right sleeve.>

I thought it was black until I read the notation next to it. But it looks
like puffs pulled through the slashes.


De

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From: "Brandy Deming" <queenscorner@verizon.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Teaching others how to sew
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If anyone has started classes in there area I would definitely like to know
how they did it.

Brandy
queenscorner@verizon.net
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Allison" <allison@aristotle.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2004 8:06 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Teaching others how to sew


> The recent posts about Home Ec have me wondering if there are any
> resources out there for teaching youngsters (AND others!) how to sew.
> I have been mulling over a plan to begin some classes in my area, but I
> have no idea what these classes would look like.  I particularly want
> to figure out the lesson plans for basic classes, so I could figure out
> how many classes, number of students, cost, etc.  Any advice or sources
> from you folks in costume-land?  I'm thinking it might be nice to set
> up a permanent classroom, complete with machines, by getting a grant.
> That way, the students can learn the basics before needing to purchase
> a machine of their own.
>
> TIA,
>
> Allison P.
> allivox@comcast.net
>
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From: "Danielle Nunn-Weinberg" <dannw@eudoramail.com>
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Greetings,

Actually, that made me think.  Weren't footless hose in use before the 16th century?   What about the idea that it the bottom of the footless or stirrup-type hose rolled up at the ankle?

Cheers,
Danielle

--------- Original Message ---------

DATE: Wed, 2 Jun 2004 11:33:16 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: 

><Boy, it *does* look like something cuffed, doesn't it? I doubt it's
>pants, though...maybe some sort of leggings or hose?>
>
>She's bare foot so it isn't hose.



Need a new email address that people can remember
Check out the new EudoraMail at
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Teaching others how to sew
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Many places that sell sewing machines also have regular classes. Several
fabric stores in my area do this as well.

Talia

> If anyone has started classes in there area I would definitely
> like to know
> how they did it.
>
> Brandy
> queenscorner@verizon.net
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] First time Regency
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Thanks to all who have replied re: first time regency. Much helpful 
information!

I've since learned that the event date is for Fall 1814, so I'm hoping I 
can make a slightly more substantail gown (less diaphanous fabric, long 
sleeves, made up to the throat or with a chemisette) with perhaps a 
pelisse in a slightly military style. Any opinions? Am I on safe ground 
or would a pelisse at this date be too early? I definitely do not want 
to have a gathered neckline on the gown--too reminiscent of 1960s/70s 
flower child gowns! And I want to have enough fullness in the skirt 
back, with the little pad at center back, but no train for this date, 
correct?

Still haven't made a fabric choice. Linen for the pelisse, but lawn or 
linen for the gown? Probably not white. Does anyone have a source for a 
nice silk twill/sarsenet? The ones I have seen are all a bit flimsy. Or 
would that not be appropriate for daywear? Would dupioni be an 
acceptable substitute, or is that too stiff/too slubby?

I'll probably just draft my own corset based on the extant examples from 
the Kyoto Costume ehibit/book instead of using a commercial pattern. 
That way I can be sure it is properly, ahem, uplifting. They do seem a 
bit long, though. Does anyone have advice about length, especially in 
terms of busk length and being able to sit down?

Thanks again!

- Hope



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In a message dated 6/2/2004 1:32:25 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
hope.greenberg@uvm.edu writes:
Still haven't made a fabric choice. Linen for the pelisse, but lawn or 
linen for the gown? Probably not white. Does anyone have a source for a 
nice silk twill/sarsenet? The ones I have seen are all a bit flimsy. Or 
would that not be appropriate for daywear? Would dupioni be an 
acceptable substitute, or is that too stiff/too slubby?
What is the time of year of the event again? Is it cold enough that you want 
a wool pelisse?
You could do a lightweight cotton, like batiste, for the gown, in a color if 
not white. 
While I won't say absolutely that silk was never worn during the day, I think 
it is more appropriate for evening so would stick to cotton or, if you can 
find it, a lightweight linen (many of the ones I see are pretty heavy and stiff 
for a gown.)  And most people recommend against dupioni, even for evening. 

Ann Wass
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Dear List, I am looking everywhere for appropriate tassels for my 
1778 robe a la circassienne.  I need two smaller ones to hang from 
the shoulder blades and two larger ones to hang where the skirt en 
polonaise is caught up, and they need to be a golden color.  The 
trouble is finding some that do not look too modern i.e. synthetic 
metallic.  I cannot afford realistic metallic ones, so I am looking 
for something in silk or cotton. My dressmaker has talked to 
various tassel-makers but for some reason there is always a 
problem.  Does anyone know a way to find them or have them made?  
If you would like a picture of how the originals look in the print, 
the dress is based on the second plate in Stella Blum's collection 
of prints from the Galerie des Modes (I actually had the "ruban 
tigre" pattern printed on bias strips of silk) or I can send you a 
scan privately.  Any help would be appreciated and I am prepared to 
try to help all of you in any way I can.
Thank you,
Alexia
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] home economics & Sewing
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New York State has a proposal out to cut the now-mandated Home Ec
classes in 6-7-8 down to 20 weeks.  It looks like the Regents are going
to do this - we'll know in a month or so.
I am one of the very, very few Home Ec (now called FaCS, or Family and
Consumer Science) who actually like to sew clothes.    I know a couple
of them that sew quilts, but most don't like to,  and certainly do not
like trying to teach a large class.   And it depends - can you handle a
truly obnoxious group of 29 t0 36 kids when you give them scissors,
pins, and the deadly seam ripper?
As schools look to cut whatever classes and whatever teachers they can, 
any "extras"  like the High School Home Ec classes are usually the
first to go.  they aren't necessary to meet the graduation
requirements, and they do have to both pay a teacher and pay for extra
supplies.
Most people do not realize how much the No Child Left Behind Act is
costing schools.   Try to take any child failing a class and give them
extra help during the school day.   Try to find an available certified
teacher who is free to do this.  You can't without adding teachers.
And my position was "abolished" last month, so I am out job hunting. 
They are going to have the Agriculture teacher teach the mandatory Home
Ec courses, so absolutely no sewing will get done now.
Rowena
Who is both working overtime to try to fix my very old house so I can
sell it, while Job hunting.  If you see any openings listed......

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In a message dated 6/2/2004 1:46:24 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
AnnBWass@aol.com writes:

> Does anyone have a source for a 
> nice silk twill/sarsenet? The ones I have seen are all a bit flimsy. Or 
> would that not be appropriate for daywear? Would dupioni be an 
> acceptable substitute, or is that too stiff/too slubby?
> 

Don't use dupioni unless there's a plaid or something that is just what you 
were thinking of. If the colors are perfect, I can forgive the dupioni. It will 
soften up if you wash it in hot water.

Linen is great. But if it's winter [or summer for that matter] I think silk 
for day is ok....as long as it's not outrageously opulent. A china silk gown 
would be lov-er-ly. A window pane or check silk would be cute. With a silk twill 
pelisse. If you find the right twill but it's too light, flatline it with 
something the right weight.
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asj2001@columbia.edu wrote:

> Dear List, I am looking everywhere for appropriate tassels for my 
> 1778 robe a la circassienne.  I need two smaller ones to hang from 
> the shoulder blades and two larger ones to hang where the skirt en 
> polonaise is caught up, and they need to be a golden color.  The 
> trouble is finding some that do not look too modern i.e. synthetic 
> metallic.  

Have you looked at the ones at fabric.com? They have several in gold 
colors and they do not look metallic.



Dawn


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] brown and red repro fabrics on clearance
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It must have been one of those "manager's special" sales. I went back 
over the weekend to check, and the entire display was sold out 
(something like 18 bolts) and in fact none of the yellow clearance signs 
from my last trip were up anywhere.


Dawn



Genie wrote:

> In St Louis, it's been on sale for $1 off the regulare price.  This weekend
> with the holiday sale it a % off plus 20% off your total sale.
> 
>  
>>Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>How long is the sale?  Or is it just discounted?
>>
>>It's on clearance, which around here means until it is sold. At a dollar
>>a yard I don't expect it to stay around too long, maybe a few weeks.
>>

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	<40BE19D4.5040002@reddawn.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] tassels (Was Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 3, Issue 404
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2004 20:46:16 +0200
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Hi Dawn
Robe a la circasienne any chanse we will se a photo of it?
:-)

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2004 8:17 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] tassels (Was Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 3, Issue 404


> asj2001@columbia.edu wrote:
> 
> > Dear List, I am looking everywhere for appropriate tassels for my 
> > 1778 robe a la circassienne.  I need two smaller ones to hang from 
> > the shoulder blades and two larger ones to hang where the skirt en 
> > polonaise is caught up, and they need to be a golden color.  The 
> > trouble is finding some that do not look too modern i.e. synthetic 
> > metallic.  
> 
> Have you looked at the ones at fabric.com? They have several in gold 
> colors and they do not look metallic.
> 
> 
> 
> Dawn
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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On Tue, 1 Jun 2004, J.A.Urbik wrote:

> Thank your for your posts.  I always find anything you say, like many
> others on this list, helpful and useful.  On looking over your stuff,
> I found that I have a question.  You mention fitting the dress on over
> a "properly fitted chemise".  By that would the chemise that I wear
> under my flemish market women dress (made from Margo Anderson's
> Patterns for Elizabethan Dress) be the appropriate type of chemise?  
> It is basically a close fitting t-tunic.

I'm not familiar with the pattern, but that sounds as though it might
work, assuming the neckline is low enough that it won't show out from the
neckline of the fitted dress. And if it's just for purposes of fitting, it
doesn't matter if it shows, as long as you can reach inside as needed to
manipulate things.

The things to avoid are a lot of bulk; gathered necklines (which often
create a lump); tightness to the point of restriction (particularly around
the bust, which needs to be mobile); and too-deep armholes with not enough
fabric to allow full motion. The trick with the armholes is that you
should be able to compress the gusset fabric right against the underarm
without restricting motion -- because that's what the armhole of the
fitted dress will do. Sometimes I've found that a tightness problem around
the armhole or on the arms is from a pulling on the chemise fabric, not a
problem with the dress itself.

--Robin

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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Graduation Costume History
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Wow, how frightfully organised!  In the UK it's just total anarchy 
really - every university and college chooses its own colours and styles 
of gown and hat.  I think they are registered somewhere, to make sure 
they are all different - that'll be why my husband's university, a 
fairly recent one, has shocking pink gowns for PhDs and canary yellow 
for honorary degrees!

Jean


Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote
>Tis' the season of graduations in the Northern Hemisphere.  So I have 
>compiled an article about the History of Graduation Costumes.  You may 
>access the article at: 
>http://www.costumegallery.com/graduationcostume.htm .
>
>Penny E. Ladnier
>Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
>www.costumegallery.com
>www.costumeclassroom.com
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-- 
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 I think it also depends on which store you are dealing with. We have two
stores right in Omaha on buslines and neither one was clearancing this group
when I visited. One was still working on reorganizing after the HF decision
to cut down on crafts and eliminate framing in stores and the "big" store
had just finished their new layout which meant I had to relearn where
everything is! From the completed layout, I gather that quilting and home
dec fabrics are now the big sellers as they have the most space and variety
as well as being most accessible from the entrance.

Not being able to visit the east side of the "pond", I ordered and got the
little catalog from the exhibition "Jane Austen : Film and Fashion" from the
Museum of Costume in Bath, UK just yesterday.  Was just short of $14.00 in
U.S funds on the old cc. Most of the photos are small because the catalog
is, but it is all in color and 36 pages. The book covers the recent film and
TV adaptations of JA's novels(1984-present). There are comments from some of
the actors and designers from the films/TV on what the former thought of the
costumes and what the later had to do design-wise to  please a director's
vision or Hollywood's insistence on a super-thin silhouette for the
actresses. Included are close ups of fabrics from the Museum's collection,
fashion plates, and some actual clothing as well as production stills,
contemporary(Austen's era)illustrations of Bath, and a couple of photos of
restored rooms in Bath today. For the Austenites, quotes from some of JA's
novels and letters.

Cindy Abel



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Subject: [h-cost] robe a la circassienne
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What's a 'robe a la circassienne'? How is it different from a la anglaise, 
a la francaise, etc?

Katie the Ignorant


>>Dear List, I am looking everywhere for appropriate tassels for my 1778 
>>robe a la circassienne.  I need two smaller ones to hang from the 
>>shoulder blades and two larger ones to hang where the skirt en polonaise 
>>is caught up, and they need to be a golden color.  The trouble is finding 
>>some that do not look too modern i.e. synthetic metallic.



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] First time Regency
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Per C.W. Cunnington's English Women's Clothing in the 19th century:
1814--waist medium high, trimmings of floss silk and chenille are much used.  Fabrics for summer are plain cambric, white French muslin figured with flowers or striped with colour, chintz, French washing silks (or foulards) & plaids; for winter, cloth [I think this means wool],merino, kerseymere.  Pelisses now made cased in the back and sleeves if of sarcenet but is muslin cased all through the body; the casings are three together, as small as possible, and two inches between them.

Hope this helps!!

I've since learned that the event date is for Fall 1814, so I'm hoping I 
can make a slightly more substantail gown (less diaphanous fabric, long 
sleeves, made up to the throat or with a chemisette) with perhaps a 
pelisse in a slightly military style. Any opinions? Am I on safe ground 
or would a pelisse at this date be too early? I definitely do not want 
to have a gathered neckline on the gown--too reminiscent of 1960s/70s 
flower child gowns! And I want to have enough fullness in the skirt 
back, with the little pad at center back, but no train for this date, 
correct?

Still haven't made a fabric choice. Linen for the pelisse, but lawn or 
linen for the gown? Probably not white. Does anyone have a source for a 
nice silk twill/sarsenet? The ones I have seen are all a bit flimsy. Or 
would that not be appropriate for daywear? Would dupioni be an 
acceptable substitute, or is that too stiff/too slubby?

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] central repository - really
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2004 19:49:21 -0400
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On Wednesday 02 June 2004 08:55 am, Sue Clemenger wrote:
> I agree with you, Catherine, but in Heather's case, she was specifically
> referring to the Florilegium, and not to the general idea of such a
> thing.  Stefan (the guy who hosts the Flori-thingy) *doesn't* filter
> much--it's up to the folks using it. [snip]

I understand that, Sue.  And one can certainly debate the utility of a 
resource like the Florilegium (though I certainly agree with you that it's a 
good thing to have, so long as you use it as a jumping-off point for research 
and don't treat it as gospel).

No, my only point was that even if people disagree about whether creating 
another Florilegium would be a good thing, it's much harder to argue against 
making images of costume from period art more easily available.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A man cannot be too careful in the choice of his enemies." 
-Oscar Wilde
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] robe a la circassienne
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ooo, I was just reading about these!  I believe the main difference was that
the overdress (robe) had short sleeves, which was worn over long
undersleeves (not sure if these were part of the chemise or something else).
There may be other differences as well that I've forgotten.

- Kendra
http://demode.tweedlebop.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Katie Pleasance" <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
Subject: [h-cost] robe a la circassienne


> What's a 'robe a la circassienne'? How is it different from a la anglaise,
> a la francaise, etc?

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Subject: [h-cost] Dutch/middle class Renaissance costume resources
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Hi all,

I'm thinking about making a Dutch mid-16th century (say 1540-1570) middle
class woman's outfit, and as the Renaissance period is NOT my forte, does
anyone have any particular resources they could recommend?  I've been all
through the sources on Drea's site, and started to look through books on
Dutch painting of the period -- does anyone have any specific books,
websites, or painters that they'd recommend?

Also, obviously most of the research materials available are for upper class
costume, with Drea's research on lower class Flemish dress beginning to fill
in the gaps there.  How do those of you who work on middle/merchant class
costumes fill in the gaps?  Do you just study the available resources and
then make best guesses?  (I focus on the 18th and 19th centuries, for which
there are ample resources on the less well-to-do).

Thanks,

Kendra
http://demode.tweedlebop.com/

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dutch/middle class Renaissance costume resources
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Hi Kendra, 

I do Middle-Class Dutch stuff from the period 1500-1530, so a little bit early 
for you but still may have useful advice.

The sources I use are painters (I can give you a list of early Dutch painters 
if that helps, although a search at the webgallery of art under Dutch and an 
appropriate time period would be more useful) and any prints I can find, 
including woodcuts, engravings and illuminations, specific Dutch ones exist for 
this period (rather than Flemish, although these can still be used for purposes 
of rounding out an understanding of the style) This page here: 
http://w1.311.comhem.se/~u31138198/whitecap.html has some great portraits of 
Dutch women of this time on it, particularly the group setting.

Unfortunately there I have found no direct documentary sources on clothing for 
this period, so I use Dutch history of this time to fill in gaps. The soon to 
be Kingdom of the Netherlands was at that time part of the Habsburg empire, and 
was directly ruled by Philip of Spain. Although rebellion against Spanish rule 
had started to foment by this time. The region also had trading interests in 
England and was taking over from the Hanseatic league as the most powerful 
trading force in the North of Europe. They had ties to German states in the 
surrounding areas, and had been influenced by Flanders for centuries, although 
by this time the Dutch had begun to move away from their influence and form a 
separate identity. There was a strong protestant movement, in the form of the 
Menonites although this was repressed by Spain (one reason for rebellion-to 
oppose the inquisition). The Netherlands also had the highest concentration of 
urban population in Europe at this time (my figures are at home, sorry) and had 
a very small nobility, who mostly lived in Flanders (one of the reasons for the 
difference between Flanders and The Netherlands)

So how does this relate to Dutch clothing: They traded with England, some Dutch 
traders ended up living in England, so English sources from this time can be 
used as corroborating evidence, especially in the cut of the dresses which is 
very similar although I haven't seen any evidence of farthingales or corsets. 
They had influences from Germany as well (probaly explains the lack for 
farthingales and corsets). English and German clothing of this 
time is well documented so I find it useful to know about both areas. One of 
the main products of the time was cloth, both wool and linen (although the wool 
trade was starting to decline because of English protectionism) so these 
fabrics are very suitable for wear. Black seems to have been a common colour 
choice for the respectable burgess, possibly a result of the influence of the 
protestant movement.

I hope this helps, it's just a general overview, so I'm happy to discuss more 
specific stuff.

Cheers, Karinne


Quoting Kendra Van Cleave <kendra@tweedlebop.com>:

> Hi all,
> 
> I'm thinking about making a Dutch mid-16th century (say 1540-1570) middle
> class woman's outfit, and as the Renaissance period is NOT my forte, does
> anyone have any particular resources they could recommend?  I've been all
> through the sources on Drea's site, and started to look through books on
> Dutch painting of the period -- does anyone have any specific books,
> websites, or painters that they'd recommend?
> 
> Also, obviously most of the research materials available are for upper class
> costume, with Drea's research on lower class Flemish dress beginning to fill
> in the gaps there.  How do those of you who work on middle/merchant class
> costumes fill in the gaps?  Do you just study the available resources and
> then make best guesses?  (I focus on the 18th and 19th centuries, for which
> there are ample resources on the less well-to-do).
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Kendra
> http://demode.tweedlebop.com/
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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You know what's REALLY frustrating?  To be a big time fiber head (if it
involves fiber I've probably done it or at least read about it) and neither
of my kids has any interest!!  I've tried to get my daughter to sew her own
custom outfits but she just can't be bothered.  My husband does anything
with metal.  My son tried forging and my daughter tried soldering a ring for
herself but no real interest.  What is it with this generation and video
games?  At least they enjoy the sword fighting at our events, otherwise I'd
swear they couldn't be MY children...
Anonymous <G>

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jun  2 21:43:22 2004
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Subject: [h-cost] armseye/sleeve redrafting?
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Maybe not the perfect place to ask this, but here goes:

I'm working on an adaptation of a modern jacket pattern with a 1/2" shoulder
pad. I'm re-drafting both the front and back sections (it is princess
seamed) to accomodate my rounded shoulders and C-cup bust size.

My problems - the armseye on this (as on almost every other pattern I've
ever used) is too large, making the sleeve pull unattractively at the bust
line. How do I make it tighter from the shoulder down and still get the
sleeve to fit? It's a 2-piece tailored sleeve so while I have seams I can
play with, I don't know quite *how* to and none of my sewing books seems to
address this. I'm willing to entertain all ideas.

Thanks in advance,

Allison T.

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Subject: [h-cost] Teaching others how to sew


> You know what's REALLY frustrating?  To be a big time fiber head (if it
> involves fiber I've probably done it or at least read about it) and
neither
> of my kids has any interest!!  I've tried to get my daughter to sew her
own
> custom outfits but she just can't be bothered.  My husband does anything
> with metal.  My son tried forging and my daughter tried soldering a ring
for
> herself but no real interest.  What is it with this generation and video
> games?  At least they enjoy the sword fighting at our events, otherwise
I'd
> swear they couldn't be MY children...
> Anonymous <G>


Just wait until you have grandchildren, its pretty likely they will be
interested. :-)

My Father in law never had any interest in blacksmithing or metal work like
*his* father was, but my husband is very much so. My Mom can sew, but never
was as interested in it as both of my Grandmothers and I are/were.

Wait and see. :-)

Sheridan


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From: "Diane Maynard" <camelothorse@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Has Joanne Fabrics really sunk this low?
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2004 21:00:39 -0500
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Actually,  Yes---JoAnn's HAS sunk even lower than this.  I have a friend
that was working for JoAnn's and the manager put him in for a promotion
because he was knowledgeable and RELIABLE about showing up for work----and
Yes everyone was only " part time ".  Instead of giving this young man a
promotion---they fired him !!  They gave the excuse that not everything on
his résumé checked out.  Oh---surprise---some of the computer companies that
he had worked for had either been bought out or gone out of business.  He
actually had ALL of his W-2 forms from EVERY company he had worked for in
the past five years.  Can you do that ?  The manager of that particular
store was beside herself.  He was the only employee that she had that could
answer questions from the clients and that ALWAYS showed up and up in extra
hours when she needed them.  The major problem as I see it is that this guy
actually had an education and knew what he was talking about.  JoAnn's
really does not want any full time employees that they have to provide
benefits for.  

Sorry for the rant but this chain has lost all of my respect.
Diane

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Catherine Olanich Raymond
Sent: Monday, May 31, 2004 9:12 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Has Joanne Fabrics really sunk this low?

On Saturday 29 May 2004 11:13 pm, Elizabeth Walpole wrote:
> > > Well all, I've heard your reports about how Joanne Fabrics only hire
> > > part-timers who know little or nothing about sewing, and today
> > > confirmed
>
> it.
>
> > > I was taking advantage of the 99 cent Simplicity pattern sale, and the
> > > checkout girl asked, "Do you sew your own clothes?", in wonderment.  I
> > > replied yes, and she said, "That's cool".
> > >
> > > Hubby found it funny, but I thought it was too sad to be funny.

Don't assume she's a moron.  A lot of the Jo-Ann's stuff in my area is
geared 
to quilters.  As Elizabeth suggested, she may have been surprised to see 
somebody buying fabric for clothing rather than a quilt.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A man cannot be too careful in the choice of his enemies." 
-Oscar Wilde
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jun  2 22:14:01 2004
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From: Kitty Felton <basyefelton@floodcity.net>
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Ok, I might be able to help, but what exactly do you mean by too large,
is the hole to large, do you want it tighter?  a closer fitting sleeve
and bodice? HOW does the bust line pull, where do the wrinkles point
to?  I did redraft a princess seam for a d cup for myself, and I also
have slightly rounded shoulders, so I can perhaps visualize what you are
saying, but I don't understand what you want for sure.   

Kitty

A.Thurman wrote:
> 
> Maybe not the perfect place to ask this, but here goes:
> 
> I'm working on an adaptation of a modern jacket pattern with a 1/2" shoulder
> pad. I'm re-drafting both the front and back sections (it is princess
> seamed) to accomodate my rounded shoulders and C-cup bust size.
> 
> My problems - the armseye on this (as on almost every other pattern I've
> ever used) is too large, making the sleeve pull unattractively at the bust
> line. How do I make it tighter from the shoulder down and still get the
> sleeve to fit? It's a 2-piece tailored sleeve so while I have seams I can
> play with, I don't know quite *how* to and none of my sewing books seems to
> address this. I'm willing to entertain all ideas.
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Allison T.
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] armseye/sleeve redrafting?
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In a message dated 6/2/04 8:42:18 PM Central Daylight Time, 
athurman@cybergal.com writes:
I'm willing to entertain all ideas.

Thanks in advance,

Allison T.
I would recommend making a muslin version of the jacket first, and making any 
necessary alterations with that while actually fitting it on yourself.  Then 
use the pieces of the muslin as your pattern when you cut out the jacket 
itself.

-Tiffany
Non vestimentum virum ornat, sed vir vestimentum.
*******************************
Reflections*of*Worth
http://stores.ebay.com/Reflections-of-Worth
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What is it with this generation and video
> games?  At least they enjoy the sword fighting at our events, otherwise I'd
> swear they couldn't be MY children...



I have the same problem, and I think you hit the nail on the head, I
think the learning curve for sewing or any craft is just to long and
frustrating for those kids who have learned about the near instant
gratification of video games and and the quick action of TV.   crafts
are to laid back, to slow in action and the learning curve is to long. 
Sometimes I even believe that it might actually come to the point that
we can't teach them to read cause it takes to long.   

I hope this doesn't translate into to many kids not wanting to go to
college, to few engineers, to few doctors, to few who will stick to
anything long enough to learn a valuable skill, but I think it might
actually come to that.   
 Kitty

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Subject: [h-cost] tassels and robe a la circassienne
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Hello, I am the tassel girl not Dawn. (Yes Bjarne it's me again)
A robe a la circassienne was one of many "turkish" style gowns that 
tend to share certain features.  I will try to keep this short as I 
wrote a long page paper on Turkish influence on eighteenth century 
women's dress last semester.  Turkish costume was popular for 
theater costume and masquerade wear. Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, a 
brilliant letter writer who wore and was painted in actual Ottoman 
upper class dress while in Turkey, was quite influential in 
spreading its popularity though her European portraits depicting 
her in "Turkish" styles already show many of the European 
adaptations that became common.  The Turkish styles that became 
part of high fashion in the '70's include the robe a la turque, the 
robe a la circassienne,the robe en levite (after all Palestine was 
under Turkish control), and a multitude of hats etc.  What it takes 
to make a regular polonaise a robe a la circassienne is 
ridiculously simple.  The key components are short oversleeves over 
longer undersleeves(often elbow-length white puffed and edged in 
ruffles), tassels, and often some sort of fur trim.  One might also 
add emblematic "Eastern" touches for masquerade such as a striped 
veil, but the robe a la circassienne was perfectly acceptable for 
other occasions as well. My outfit will have large ruffled shift 
sleeves, a tight, sleeveless underbodice for over my stays, and a 
polonaise gown that can either close only at the neckline or down 
to my waist with the point of the underbodice sticking out.  Aside 
from the waist treatment, my gown copies the one I mentioned from 
Blum's book which has the delightful addition of leopard spotted 
ribbon trim.  Unfortunately I cannot sew, so I am just overseeing 
this whole process.  If anyone wants to know more I can pull out my 
paper and images.
Alexia
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Why not? I do believe there are examples of extant hose that are 
footless....
--sue

otsisto wrote:

> -----Original Message-----
> <Boy, it *does* look like something cuffed, doesn't it? I doubt it's
> pants, though...maybe some sort of leggings or hose?>
> 
> She's bare foot so it isn't hose.



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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] ?pants/bloomers
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2004 23:53:37 -0500
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Sorry, when I think of hose I think of leggings with feet pockets.

Leggings I think of something that may or may not have foot pockets.

Arian

-----Original Message-----
Why not? I do believe there are examples of extant hose that are 
footless....
--sue

otsisto wrote:

> -----Original Message-----
> <Boy, it *does* look like something cuffed, doesn't it? I doubt it's
> pants, though...maybe some sort of leggings or hose?>
> 
> She's bare foot so it isn't hose.



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I'll second that, and third it, as well, if only for emphasis.
I'm entirely fibery/crafty, and no one else in my immediate family is. 
My sister does (an my Mom did) a little watercolors and oils, which I 
can't do at *ALL.*
My grandpa, however, was a carver and a weaver, and was descended from 
weavers in two different families.  And I had a great-grandma on Dad's 
side who was knitting and crocheting into her 90s.
As far as I know, I'm the only "crafty" one of the grandchildren, except 
for my cousin Cyd, who seems to have inherited her amazing artistic 
skills from her father, who was a painter.
So don't give up hope! ;o)
--sue

Shane & Sheridan wrote:

> Just wait until you have grandchildren, its pretty likely they will be
> interested. :-)
> 
> My Father in law never had any interest in blacksmithing or metal work like
> *his* father was, but my husband is very much so. My Mom can sew, but never
> was as interested in it as both of my Grandmothers and I are/were.
> 
> Wait and see. :-)



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Ah!...vocabulary differences! <g>
I'd never have thought of "leggings" in reference to much of anything 
except some kinds of modern fashions! <g>
--sue

otsisto wrote:

> Sorry, when I think of hose I think of leggings with feet pockets.
> 
> Leggings I think of something that may or may not have foot pockets.
> 
> Arian
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> Why not? I do believe there are examples of extant hose that are 
> footless....
> --sue
> 
> otsisto wrote:
> 
> 
>>-----Original Message-----
>><Boy, it *does* look like something cuffed, doesn't it? I doubt it's
>>pants, though...maybe some sort of leggings or hose?>
>>
>>She's bare foot so it isn't hose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Jean,

At my husband's graduation last week, one of the professors had on a bright
purple robe... maybe he attended your husband's college!

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] home economics & Sewing
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At 02:00 PM 6/2/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>They are going to have the Agriculture teacher teach the mandatory Home
>Ec courses, so absolutely no sewing will get done now.
>Rowena
>Who is both working overtime to try to fix my very old house so I can
>sell it, while Job hunting.  If you see any openings listed......


Rowena, are you still wanting to teach children in your field, or are you 
willing to expand into the private sector? That might help us keep an eye 
out if we know what you are willing to do or not. And with all this talk of 
teaching kids, have you thought of doing that privately from your home?

And I am shaking my head on the thought of an Ag teacher doing Home Ec 
courses, unless said Ag teacher also knows what they are doing in Home Ec. 
I live in Central California, home of many ag products of the US, and most 
of our FFA/Ag teachers understand animals or plants, raising, caring and 
showing them, and not much on using their wool or cooking them, or what to 
do with fabrics.

While I enjoyed my Jr High home ec classes, I didn't understand fully what 
sewing was all about until I was an adult with a son of my own. And this 
was with my mom teaching me sewing (and cooking) since I was very little. 
Even worse as a teen, I didn't understand the need for fit, and no one 
taught that to me. Most sewing classes I see advertised around my area 
teach basic sewing. I don't see many classes, if any, on how a pattern 
needs to be modified to fit one's unique body. And that was my first 
frustration, and why I quit sewing for many years. I didn't know how, and 
no one taught me how, not even my own mom, who is a whiz on sewing and 
fitting. I finally had to teach myself, and I am still learning.

On another story, my husband's best-friend's wife did Home Ec for middle 
school continuation (the last step before expulsion from school, usually 
for "trouble" kids). My husband was just telling me how she got a major pat 
on the back from parents of these kids. The kids were learning how to cook 
and sew, and then would go home and make dinner for their parents, or sew 
them something. Many of these kids felt like failures, because math and 
English were difficult for them. But they could cook or sew, and that was a 
major boost to their egos... they could accomplish something positive. 
Unfortunately for those student, she decided to leave teaching to stay home 
with her children, which is good for her kids.

Kimiko

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References: <20040601185153.76188.qmail@web40404.mail.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Ideas for Desdemona's dress (from Othello)
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2004 19:14:27 +1000
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Mary" <hanstar88@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2004 4:51 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Ideas for Desdemona's dress (from Othello)


> Hi all,
>
> Thanks for the suggestions, they are all great.  However...  She is
> not going to play or portray Desdemona herself.  In fact, she won't
> even be wearing the gown.  (Sorry if I did not clearly explain that
> in my original post.)  The dress will be displayed and it needs to
> represent Desdemona's character.  That's why we were adding the
> handkerchief, because there is a scene where Othello talks about it
> and it's supposed to represent "the magic of love".  My daughter
> chose the light pink colour to represent that D was innocent of the
> charges brought against her.
>
> Our problem is that we can't think of anymore symbols to incorporate
> into the gown.  (I've never read/seen "Othello" so I'm not able to
> help her much.)  <snip>
W, she is using the Simplicity "Ever After" pattern (don't remember
> the number offhand), view C which is the simplest.  This is only the
> 2nd or 3rd thing that she has sewn, so I thought it would be best to
> keep it simple.  (Besides, I doubt the teacher or anyone in her class
> will know what "real Venetian" clothing looked like anyway!!)
>
> Thanks again!
> ~Mary
<snip>
Having used the Simplicity pattern you're talking about
1. it's not too bad as a 1490-1510 ish Venetian costume, but the bodice for
view B looks more authentic and it's simpler (no dealing with the centre
panel, no grommets to set etc) but I would use view C's closed front skirt
rather than the underskirt overskirt idea Unless you wanted to include De's
idea of yellow there, for just a hint of her strength every now and again
(as the overskirt tends to fall closed and you only see the underskirt when
you're walking, but for the display you could pin the overskirt back)
2. To make it both simpler and incorporate Marie's idea of ties, attach the
over sleeves by sewing ribbons to both the sleeves and the armholes (much
easier than setting grommets to lace the ribbons through)

On the topic of colours and symbols can I suggest red ribbons to represent
her blood over a white chemise (i.e. those puffy sleeves) to represent her
purity (and a lot of emphasis is made about her whiteness, especially in
contrast to Othello's blackness), you could attach the red ribbons at the
shoulder whether you tie the oversleeves to it or not. Alternatively, if you
do decide to use view C's bodice you could have the centre front panel white
and red ribbons tied over that (rather than the zigzag lacing the pattern
suggests).  Then again IIRC Othello strangles her so as not to shed her
blood so maybe it shouldn't be red. Black for mourning or death perhaps? If
you use view C then the black ribbons over the front of her bodice could
also represent Othello close to her heart. Ties - tying the knot / marriage,
tying white and black ribbons together representing Othello and Desdemona's
marriage? rings are another symbol of marriage, 2 interlocked rings
(keyrings perhaps spraypainted gold or silver) with the ribbons tied to
either side. Red (blood/passion) centre front panel with a white (pure)
heart appliquéd on top and white and black ribbons tying together from
either side? Hearts, or one heart to represent her love for Othello, a large
heart to represent a love so strong it can even forgive her murderer? I
don't know how to represent her betrayal. Both Othello's betrayal of her and
her supposed betrayal of Othello and actual betrayal of her father by
marrying Othello. Green for Othello's jealousy? Perhaps a snake, but that
would be more appropriate for Iago. At the end of the sleeves, at arms
length, or on the back of the dress, behind her back, unseen. A snake
(representing Iago) on the back of the skirt (unseen behind her back) headed
up towards her heart (about to attack her love and her life) with it's
tongue out (Iago is all talk)? Unbound/loose hair used to be a symbol of
virginity and brides (in the 19th century it came to represent loose morals
so you may want to be careful, or otherwise claim that is how Othello sees
her), you could extend the metaphor to innocence in general, or just a
symbol of her as a bride. Use a wig if you can or just wool for the hair.
Tell the teacher the false white chemise sleeves (rather than a proper full
chemise) are a symbol of Othello thinking her innocence is false/just for
show (no need to say that it's because that's how the pattern is constructed
*g*). A veil to represent not seeing/deception, Othello couldn't see her
innocence and she couldn't
see what he was thinking. As a woman she is out of place in the world of the
Military encampment, the pink emphasises her femininity in the male
dominated world of the Army. Can anybody think of a way to symbolise her
being out of  place/different?
I recently watched the version by Orson Welles and it included lots of
mirrors as a symbol of Othello being unable to distinguish between reality
and the distorted reflection of reality that Iago presents, but I don't know
how you would incorporate that into a dress. It also features repetition of
images of bars and cages, Desdemona is trapped by her love for Othello in
this marriage, she is locked out of respectable society and her father's
affection, the ties across her bust represent that her love is something
that traps her.
If you're pushed for time see what you can find in the iron on patches area,
but they won't be removable if she wants to use it for another purpose
later.
I'm working off the top of my head here but this is what I can come up with
having just studied it, it's a bit of a mishmash of how we as the audience
see her and how Othello sees her, but hopefully you can use some of the
elements.
Elizabeth
P.S. Inspiration struck on the bus home, how about a red veil (or some sort
of sheer fabric) with forked tongues either painted on or cut into the
edge like dags, or just make a large rectangular veil and cut one end into
the shape of a forked tongue. Forked tongue symbolises lying, the veil
symbolises obscuring something and red symbolises passion. So we come to the
conclusion that lies (i.e. Iago) are obscuring the real Desdemona and her
innocence by implying she is "a scarlet woman", red also symbolises
Othello's rage (he sees red when he looks at Desdemona) and her blood. You
could use the veil to cover half of the dress with that half being what
Othello sees and the other half being the real, unobscured Desdemona that
the audience sees, or just draped over the white sleeves (or the white
heart) showing that he cannot see her purity and instead sees her feminine
(pink) frailty/inconstancy. The snake motif could be on the obscured side
with Othello unable to see Iago's lies, or on the unobscured side that only
the audience can see.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
Elizabeth Beaumont              Elizabeth Walpole
Politarchopolis, Lochac     Canberra Australia
             ewalpole@austar.net.au

People are like stained glass windows. They sparkle and shine when the sun
is out, but when the darkness sets in ,their true beauty is revealed only if
there is light from within.
Elizabeth Kubler-Ross

The years that a woman subtracts from her age are not lost. They are added
to the ages of other women.
Diane de Poitiers (1499-1566) Attrib.

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	<5.2.1.1.0.20040602225932.02b79940@64.87.54.245>
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>  Many of these kids felt like failures, because math and
> English were difficult for them. But they could cook or sew, and that was
a
> major boost to their egos... they could accomplish something positive.
> Unfortunately for those student, she decided to leave teaching to stay
home
> with her children, which is good for her kids.
> Kimiko
this is exactly what I get from the Special Aide teachers & Aides, and the
teaching Assistants who accompany some kids who need help with notes,
directions, etc.   And that when they start doing well in my class ( I can
flex a LOT for any kid who is willing to at least try), they often put more
effort into other things.
And it is a GREAT thrill when a kid bounces into school and stops me in the
hall, or finds me in my classroom, to tell me that they went home and made
breakfast, cookies, etc., and they and their parents are thrilled.   Just
yesterday a student at the end of class was expressing amazement that making
chocolate chip cookies was EASY, and she was going home to talk her parents
into letting her try there, too.  Of course, I have retyped the recipe so
that each step is VERY specific, and keeps emphasizing that You Must Do This
Step Exactly before you go on - something that successful Home Ec teachers
get good at.
And you should see the photos I have of the drawstring bags and
multi-colored Jester Hats that we sew each year!  The low performing kids
actually can excel in this, and they get a kick out of such a fun, get out
of your seats activity.  And never figure out that I am teaching them a way
of following instructions.....
Rowena


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From: "Elizabeth" <thebarefoot.contessa@verizon.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Dutch/middle class Renaissance costume resources
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2004 09:23:06 -0400
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Hi Kendra,

I think the problem you may be encountering in your search it that back in
the 16th c "Dutch" was not called "Dutch" I think I was either Flemish or
Holland or part of the Holey Roman Empire. If you want me to look that up I
will.  You will have to get a Northern Renaissance art book. Or try one of
these.

http://witcombe.sbc.edu/ARTHLinks2.html

http://art-design.umich.edu/mother/

You can always check out Cranach, he was German in Antwerp you can try
Quentin Metsys, Joachim Patinir, Joos van Cleve.  The Specialists, Marinus
van Reymerswaele, Jan van Hemessen.

In Holland, Amsterdam, Delft and Haarlem.  Master of Alkmaar, Jacob
Cornelisz, Lucan van Leyden (engravings) Jan van Scorel, Maerten van
Heemskerck and Antonis Mor then of course you have Bruegel the Elder.  Hope
that helps.

As for Leeds site on lower class Flemish, some of my art history Professors
have problems with her research.  They were not very specific as to why,
they just have problems with her thesis or hypothesis forart representing
dress.  Anyway, lets not get into that.

Look forward to seeing this new project.

All the best,
Elizabeth

http://www.elizabethsartofdress.com


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Kendra Van Cleave
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2004 8:38 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Dutch/middle class Renaissance costume resources


Hi all,

I'm thinking about making a Dutch mid-16th century (say 1540-1570) middle
class woman's outfit, and as the Renaissance period is NOT my forte, does
anyone have any particular resources they could recommend?  I've been all
through the sources on Drea's site, and started to look through books on
Dutch painting of the period -- does anyone have any specific books,
websites, or painters that they'd recommend?

Also, obviously most of the research materials available are for upper class
costume, with Drea's research on lower class Flemish dress beginning to fill
in the gaps there.  How do those of you who work on middle/merchant class
costumes fill in the gaps?  Do you just study the available resources and
then make best guesses?  (I focus on the 18th and 19th centuries, for which
there are ample resources on the less well-to-do).

Thanks,

Kendra
http://demode.tweedlebop.com/

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: M Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dutch/middle class Renaissance costume resources
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Hi Kendra -
         I do middle class and working class - been doing it since geez, 
the mid 80's - ouch.
         Anyway -
         Aertsen good place to start.
         Valkenborch, Lucas van (Flemish, 1530-1597)
         Eworth, Hans (Flemish active in England, active 1545-1574)
         Ketel, Cornelis (Dutch, Practiced mainly in England, 1548-1616)
         Bruegel, Pieter the Elder, Follower of (Flemish, active 1551-1569)

         There are several paintings titled "Merry Company"  which depict 
middle class and working class together.
And there is a book...  looking for the title...  And I don't seem to have 
it here at work...  Must be at home.
It is titled something like  "Master Painters of the Dutch Markets"   It 
includes the works of Aertsen,  and Valkenborch, and another Master... (the 
important one that I can't remember,  grr) that focused on Merchants and 
Middle Class...

I'll try to dig up the title for you.

Bridgette



>Hi all,
>
>I'm thinking about making a Dutch mid-16th century (say 1540-1570) middle
>class woman's outfit, and as the Renaissance period is NOT my forte, does
>anyone have any particular resources they could recommend?  I've been all
>through the sources on Drea's site, and started to look through books on
>Dutch painting of the period -- does anyone have any specific books,
>websites, or painters that they'd recommend?
>
>Also, obviously most of the research materials available are for upper class
>costume, with Drea's research on lower class Flemish dress beginning to fill
>in the gaps there.  How do those of you who work on middle/merchant class
>costumes fill in the gaps?  Do you just study the available resources and
>then make best guesses?  (I focus on the 18th and 19th centuries, for which
>there are ample resources on the less well-to-do).
>
>Thanks,
>
>Kendra
>http://demode.tweedlebop.com/
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jun  3 09:55:23 2004
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Subject: [h-cost] Widow's peak examples?
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Hi all.  I see you have been very busy while I was gone!  Whew.800+ messages
from H-cost alone!

 

Anyway.I had re-watched Girl with a Pearl.with my cousin while I was home
and got to thinking I liked the motherinlaw's widow's peak hood.  Anyone run
across some examples of it in artwork?  My preliminary ''research'' say's is
dates to the 1530's..

 

Sg

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From: "Cindy Abel" <brujne@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Has Joanne Fabrics really sunk this low?
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2004 09:42:56 -0500
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Status: RO



 Yes, fabric and craft stores really have a hard time hiring knowledgeable
people who know the products and can answer most customer questions. To keep
competitive, most businesses have to hire people for as little as possible
and to hire as few people as possible. In the 19th century especially, at
the dawn of the Industrial Revolution, it was why business owners kept
hiring those willing to work for less(women, children, and immigrants)in
order to keep those products affordable and  profits rolling in. And we
consumers are part of this vicious circle--can we afford to pay more if
improved customer service returned?

Read Emile Zola's "The Ladies' Paradise" for a fictionalized account of how
a large department store of the 1880's treated its employees and killed
small family-owned businesses.

Cindy Abel

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Subject: Re: RE: [h-cost] Dutch/middle class Renaissance costume resources
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and of course there's Drea Leed's book "The Well-Dress'd Peasant: 16th Century Workingwoman's Dress" and website with excerpts from same
http://costume.dm.net/lowerclass/flemish-dress.html

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Kendra Van Cleave
> Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2004 8:38 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Dutch/middle class Renaissance costume resources
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I'm thinking about making a Dutch mid-16th century (say 1540-1570) middle
> class woman's outfit, and as the Renaissance period is NOT my forte, does
> 
SNIP


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Subject: [h-cost] Earliest dupinoi fabric use
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I have some dupioni silk in solid colors(deep red, antique gold, white,
cream and pale peach pink)either from remnant store bins or my own
projectsin yardage only suitable for doll costuming. The last three colors
are in silks with very fine dupioni markings.  I was thinking of making
fantasy outfits, but ideally want to do historical, but can't find the
earliest date for use of dupinoi(or whatever it was previously called). Does
anyone on the list know of a date(era)previous to the 20th century for this
fabric weave?

For anyone looking for affordable dupioni silk, JoAnns carries a few colors
in finer dupioni "markings", while on my recent trip to the largest local
Hancock's revealed three new colors in their usual rougher weave dupioni in
an Old Paris collection: mauve pink, and a soft light green and pale yellow.

Many thanks

Cindy Abel




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Has Joanne Fabrics really sunk this low?
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I worked for Jo-Anne's back when it was House of Fabrics, and our district
manager actually told me, "The company knows they don't have to pay more
than minimum wage, because this is a housewife's job."

I worked there part time because the employee discount was useful to my
costuming and bridal custom work, and because I enjoyed talking to the
customers.  More than once I completely forgot to pick up my paycheck;  the
amount was so low I didn't miss it.

Margo

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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Earliest dupinoi fabric use
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2004 09:03:59 -0700
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I don't know exactly when the term dupioni came into use, but the use of
''waste'' silk is well documented.  Not that these are exactly the  same
thing, but the waste silk would "probably" have imperfections in it like
slubs.  See "The silk industry of Renaisance Venice" by Mola  for more
information.  I have a photo of an extant court bodice from the 17th century
that has slubs in it.  

Sg


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Earliest dupinoi fabric use
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In a message dated 6/3/2004 11:43:29 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
brujne@creighton.edu writes:

> in finer dupioni "markings", 

Isn't that Shantung?
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Has Joanne Fabrics really sunk this low?
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In a message dated 6/3/04 10:57:00 AM Central Daylight Time, 
lists@margospatterns.com writes:
"The company knows they don't have to pay more
than minimum wage, because this is a housewife's job."


It's unfortunate that there are managers who feel this way, because that 
attitude will be translated to the employees that they are not valued or important 
to the store, and the employees often then translate that feeling to the 
customers.

I have found that since I buy fabric on such a regular basis, it's far more 
productive to cultivate a friendly relationship with the employees of the 
stores, even if they are not particularly knowledgeable about sewing.  They're 
human beings just trying to earn some money, and honestly I have seen customers be 
so ugly to them, it blows my mind.  People treat them as though it's the 
staff's fault that they've had to wait in a line to get fabric cut, or as though 
it is the employee's responsibility to teach them how to sew, or as though they 
are evil because the store is currently out of the fabric they want.

I no longer shop at JoAnn's because their prices have become simply obscene 
since they have decided to become more home-dec and less fabric oriented.  
However, at the stores that I do shop at, I have made a concerted effort to become 
good friends with the staffs.  I put my own bolts of fabric back after 
they're cut, allow people who are sighing loudly and tapping their feet to go in 
front of me so that they don't take their ugliness out on the employees, and so 
forth.  It's worth it, because it's almost always reciprocated in one way or 
another.  I get sale prices the day before the sale starts, the end pieces of 
bolts are included with my cuts rather than cut off and made into remnants, etc. 
 

The ones who are less knowledgeable can be frustrating at times, but IMO it's 
better to make friends with them and try to help them learn.  They will learn 
quickly or they will decide it's not for them and leave.  If they choose the 
latter then you have lost nothing but a few moments spent being pleasant; if 
they choose the former then you may have made a connection that will serve you 
well.

-Tiffany
Non vestimentum virum ornat, sed vir vestimentum.
*******************************
Reflections*of*Worth
http://stores.ebay.com/Reflections-of-Worth
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>Anyway.I had re-watched Girl with a Pearl.with my cousin while I was
home>and got to thinking I liked the mother-in-law's widow's peak hood.
>Sg

***As someone with a widow's peak hairline, I am curious as to the origin of
this term.  Was this hood only worn by widows?  How did it get its name?

>I don't know exactly when the term dupioni came into use, but the use
of>''waste'' silk is well documented.  Not that these are exactly the
same>thing, but the waste silk would "probably" have imperfections in it
like>slubs.  I have a photo of an extant court bodice from the
>17th century>that has slubs in it.

***I SWEAR I have a picture of something in a fabric that looks just like
dupioni but darned if I can find it again (of course).  Could you pretty
please post that picture?

Julie T

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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 2 questions
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2004 10:14:06 -0700
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> ***As someone with a widow's peak hairline, I am curious as to the origin
of
> this term.  Was this hood only worn by widows?  How did it get its name?
[Sg]  Not that this would qualify as real research (hence the quotation
marks in my original post), but : http://ask.yahoo.com/ask/20021227.html


 
> ***I SWEAR I have a picture of something in a fabric that looks just like
> dupioni but darned if I can find it again (of course).  Could you pretty
> please post that picture?
[Sg] I will have to post it later...did we ever start a yahoo group to post
pictures?   In the mean time, if you have access to this book:Silk, by
Jacques Anquetil, it is on page 100.  It was the first half of the 18th
century.  Sorry, got that mixed up in my head (again).

Sg

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In a message dated 6/3/2004 12:59:11 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
jtknits@cts.com writes:

> I liked the mother-in-law's widow's peak hood

Judy Partiff is the Mother-in law. Isn't she the best? I love her. She is 
fantastic as the dreadful alcoholic adulterous Mrs. Layton in the fantastic 
miniseries "Jewel in the Crown".
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	Thu, 03 Jun 2004 10:35:48 PDT
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From: Dawn Jacobson <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Dutch/MC Renaissance Costume Resources
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Bridgette wrote:

>          I do middle class and working class - been
> doing it since geez, 
> the mid 80's - ouch.
>          Anyway -
>          Aertsen good place to start.
>          Valkenborch, Lucas van (Flemish, 1530-1597)
>          Eworth, Hans (Flemish active in England,
> active 1545-1574)
>          Ketel, Cornelis (Dutch, Practiced mainly in
> England, 1548-1616)
>          Bruegel, Pieter the Elder, Follower of
> (Flemish, active 1551-1569)
> 
>          There are several paintings titled "Merry
> Company"  which depict 
> middle class and working class together.
> And there is a book...  looking for the title... 
> And I don't seem to have 
> it here at work...  Must be at home.
> It is titled something like  "Master Painters of the
> Dutch Markets"   It 
> includes the works of Aertsen,  and Valkenborch, and
> another Master... (the 
> important one that I can't remember,  grr) that
> focused on Merchants and 
> Middle Class...

To piggy-back onto Bridgette's post, the works of
Pieter Aertsen are useful because he frequently put
middle-class (MC) women in the backgrounds of his
market genre paintings. I finally had the opportunity
to study one "up close and personal" last summer at
the Getty in Los Angeles: It's BIG (about 4x6 feet)
and the details are much more evident than in books or
on the Internet.

There are also a number of books on the social history
of 16th C. Flanders available: this was a period of
tremendous economic expansion for that part of Europe,
and the MC really changed between 1500 and 1576.

I'm at work right now, and my books are at home, but
I'll post a list of titles/book info this evening.

Dawn 

=====
Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are just the costumes we wear every day.
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I have an 1865 copy in fantastic shape. Has a few of it's color pull outs. I
need some fast cash for bills and I want $200 FIRM for it. Contact me off
list and I can try to take some snaps of it if I can get the batteries in
the digital to live long enough.
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How about wool?  A lightweight wool is always nice and usually drapes beautifully - not great for summer but lovely for the rest of the year.

Cheers,
Danielle

--------- Original Message ---------
>In a message dated 6/2/2004 1:46:24 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
>AnnBWass@aol.com writes:
>
>> Does anyone have a source for a 
>> nice silk twill/sarsenet? The ones I have seen are all a bit flimsy. Or 
>> would that not be appropriate for daywear? Would dupioni be an 
>> acceptable substitute, or is that too stiff/too slubby?
>> 
>
>Don't use dupioni unless there's a plaid or something that is just what you 
>were thinking of. If the colors are perfect, I can forgive the dupioni. It will 
>soften up if you wash it in hot water.
>
>Linen is great. But if it's winter [or summer for that matter] I think silk 
>for day is ok....as long as it's not outrageously opulent. A china silk gown 
>would be lov-er-ly. A window pane or check silk would be cute. With a silk twill 
>pelisse. If you find the right twill but it's too light, flatline it with 
>something the right weight.
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



Need a new email address that people can remember
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jun  3 14:34:46 2004
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Hi!  Actually I've used a very nice light weight wool for some of my italian
renaissance gowns.  When wearing the gowns of the wool, I actually found
them to be much cooler and easier to do work in hot weather.  I think it has
to do with the fact the wool breathes, wicks persperation and allows breezes
to evaporate out the sweat easier.  100% Linen is the best for hot weather
(IMO), but wool is a wonderful natural fiber for both hot and cold weather.
Much more versatile than cotton.

Anyhoo, just  my own experiences.  I'm sure others will have had just the
reverse...
Happy stitches!

Gia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Danielle Nunn-Weinberg" <dannw@eudoramail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2004 6:15 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] First time Regency


> How about wool?  A lightweight wool is always nice and usually drapes
beautifully - not great for summer but lovely for the rest of the year.
>
> Cheers,
> Danielle
>
> --------- Original Message ---------
> >In a message dated 6/2/2004 1:46:24 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> >AnnBWass@aol.com writes:
> >
> >> Does anyone have a source for a
> >> nice silk twill/sarsenet? The ones I have seen are all a bit flimsy. Or
> >> would that not be appropriate for daywear? Would dupioni be an
> >> acceptable substitute, or is that too stiff/too slubby?
> >>
> >
> >Don't use dupioni unless there's a plaid or something that is just what
you
> >were thinking of. If the colors are perfect, I can forgive the dupioni.
It will
> >soften up if you wash it in hot water.
> >
> >Linen is great. But if it's winter [or summer for that matter] I think
silk
> >for day is ok....as long as it's not outrageously opulent. A china silk
gown
> >would be lov-er-ly. A window pane or check silk would be cute. With a
silk twill
> >pelisse. If you find the right twill but it's too light, flatline it with
> >something the right weight.
> >_______________________________________________
> >h-costume mailing list
> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
>
> Need a new email address that people can remember
> Check out the new EudoraMail at
> http://www.eudoramail.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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In a message dated 6/3/2004 2:33:15 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
gia_gavino@comcast.net writes:

> I think it has
> to do with the fact the wool breathes, wicks persperation and allows breezes
> to evaporate out the sweat easier. 

I thought wool was the only thing that was warm even when it was wet because 
it holds in heat. I made wool aprons for some girls in costume who were 
cooking at an open hearth in an 18th century house. They said the wool would 
extinguish any embers that might fall on the apron...it's hard to get wool to 
ignite... and the wool reflected the heat from the fire.

Is this true?
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Dutch/MC Renaissance Costume Resources
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If you are willing to go to the very end of the 16th century, I found 
this useful:

Dutch costume in paintings by Dutch artists : a study of women's 
clothing and art from 1600 to 1650 / 
Author: Chapman, Dana L. Publication: 1986
Document: English : Book : Thesis/dissertation/manuscript  Archival 
Material

Grace/Jessamyn


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Found this picture of a dress. Is this ribbon embroidered flowers on the
decoration?
http://images.vam.ac.uk/images/photo/sch/20030207/high/1094-002.jpg
Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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  Hi!  See below for reply...

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>

> In a message dated 6/3/2004 2:33:15 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> gia_gavino@comcast.net writes:
>
> > I think it has
> > to do with the fact the wool breathes, wicks persperation and allows
breezes
> > to evaporate out the sweat easier.
>
> I thought wool was the only thing that was warm even when it was wet
because
> it holds in heat. I made wool aprons for some girls in costume who were

Well, yes this *can* be true.  In my expereince, it depends on the wool type
(if it's a blend), weave and the 'finish' of the wool.  My cape made from a
melton, thickly woven, heavy wool that has been washed so that it is felted
is wonderfully warm, even when wet.  For the summer wool gowns I've made,
the wool has been *very* light weight, the weave is fairly open and when
washed (even in hot wash and dry) maintained it's fairly open weave.  That's
the key difference.  Another of my wool gowns that is a more tightly woven
heavier weight wool is warmer, but still breathes.  I find that I don't get
too warm or too cold in it very often...

> cooking at an open hearth in an 18th century house. They said the wool
would
> extinguish any embers that might fall on the apron...it's hard to get wool
to
> ignite... and the wool reflected the heat from the fire.
>
> Is this true?
In my experience, that is mostly true.  I've found that while the wool
doesn't actually ignite, if the ember is not extingushed, a sizable hole can
be burned.  This is also depending on the wool type (if it's a blend ),
weave and the 'finish.  My cloak has had embers fall on it and nary a hole
can be found.  Yet I know of many friends, with wool cloaks,of a lighter
weight or even a blend of wool and other fibers had allowed the embers to
burn quite a noticeable hole.

Again, this is only from my experiences.  Others may have had different
experiences and I'd be really happy to read about those as well.  I'd love
to learn more about the many things others have found that wool can and
cannot do.

Happy stitching!
Emer \ Gia
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Wool (was First time Regency)
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from all I've read, wool has a number of wonderful properties, including
the fact that since wool absorbs so much moisture (I think they said 4 or
more times it's own weight), it can keep you cool in the summer, in an
appropriate light weight.  it also self extinguishes, so is appropriate
for around a fire, and insulates from cold or heat.   Wool doesn't crease
like plant fibers so it is the perfect traveling costume in the right
weight.

 and if I remember right, it doesn't absorb odors, which is a blessing
since it is hard to clean.  LOL  I do know that I bought sox for years
made from merino wool and polypropolene and they were the softest,
warmest sox for winter, but I was able to wear them for summer if I
needed to, (I generally live in sandals) and they didn't hold odors.  
wish they still made them.   I'd even knit them myself if I could find
the right thread.

Kitty


> In a message dated 6/3/2004 2:33:15 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> gia_gavino@comcast.net writes:
>
>> I think it has
>> to do with the fact the wool breathes, wicks persperation and allows
>> breezes to evaporate out the sweat easier.
>
> I thought wool was the only thing that was warm even when it was wet
> because  it holds in heat. I made wool aprons for some girls in costume
> who were  cooking at an open hearth in an 18th century house. They said
> the wool would  extinguish any embers that might fall on the
> apron...it's hard to get wool to  ignite... and the wool reflected the
> heat from the fire.
>
> Is this true?
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume



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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] ribbon embroidery
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2004 13:12:05 -0700
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Boy that is tough to tell Bjarne.  I saved the photo to zoom in, but the
resolution is not good enough.  There are some 1770 gowns in Fashion in
Detail which have what looks like ribbon flowers in their fly fringe
trims....

Sg



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Subject: [h-cost] Shinrone gown pattern from Reconstructing History
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hi all,

I recently finished making a Shinrone gown from Reconstructing History pattern #301. I encountered some difficulty in constructing the bodice from the pattern and instructions as given, and to date my several queries to the Reconstructing History email list have not been answered. I assume everyone on that list is too busy to answer, so I thought I'd see if anyone on this list had any thoughts.

Unless you've seen the pattern, it's difficult to describe the issue I encountered. I'll do my best, but if you don't understand what I'm trying to get at, it's probably my fault not yours :-).

The gown and its construction are also described at http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/irish/shinrone.html

The bodice has extra fabric that folds under to form a partial self-lining. I didn't have any problem getting the back to self-line as described and illustrated in the pattern's documentation. In Kass' notes, the bodice is described as self-lined from the bust-line down. The bodice has a deep v-front (similar to Elizabethan bodice shapes) that gets flattened out with darts toward the end of the construction process. The pattern for the bodice front adds some extra fabric to the bottom of the pattern piece (in an irregular, vaguely triangular shape), and shows a curved line to fold the fabric back upon itself to form the self-lining. However, the shape of the pattern piece will not result in lining that reaches the bust-line nor completely lines the front. Nor will it lie flat if one tries to fold on the curved line as given (no kidding). 

I couldn't figure this out, never got any response from anyone on the Reconstructing History list, so I gave up on the instructions as included, and just cut separate lining pieces for the front. (Which is a valid way to handle the self-lining, but does not result in an exact replica, which is what I was hoping for.)

Has anyone else made this gown, and if so, how did you handle the bodice construction?

Like I said, if you haven't seen the pattern, my verbal description may not mean very much. If you have questions, I can try to clarify.

I look forward to some discussion on this. Any discussion!

is mise le meas,
Pandora
Everett, WA


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Off lurking to answer the below....
http://www.dharmatrading.com/silk_fabrics.html 
This is the best source I have found. You should order all the silk swatches, to pick & choose. Everything is for silk painting, so its usually white(they have a small selection of black) 

They carry silk twill. They also carry superlative silk dyes. They are fast, and they have a catalogue.
I use them, I like them. Unfortunately, to get the really good prices, you need to buy the bolt...

If you have friends, a  50yd bolt of raw silk can be
had for less than $4 a yard.  Charmeuse by the bolt is
$5.87 for 19.5mm(pronounced mummy, and is weight, this is getting into bridal weight) for a 50yard bolt at
45 inches wide. 

No other place that I have found beats the price for 
the quality of what you get. Everything is listed by
fabric content & mm. Swatches will help you decide which weight is best for you.

>Does anyone have a source for a 
>nice silk twill/sarsenet? The ones I have seen are >all a bit flimsy. Or would that not be appropriate >for daywear? Would dupioni be an acceptable >substitute, or is that too stiff/too slubby?



____________________________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ribbon embroidery
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Can't tell, although initially they appear to raised above the
decoration.

I marvel that women could even move in the panniers (sp)! And how do you
make them?

Arlys

On Thu, 3 Jun 2004 21:36:20 +0200 "Bjarne og Leif Drews"
<drewscph@post12.tele.dk> writes:
> Found this picture of a dress. Is this ribbon embroidered flowers on 
> the
> decoration?
> http://images.vam.ac.uk/images/photo/sch/20030207/high/1094-002.jpg
> Bjarne
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> 
> 
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Huh.  You know you are right!  This really should be reported to some sort
of government civil rights department.   Speaking from experience, nothing
will generally happen, but a 'record' of this will be kept...somewhere...if
you even want to bother with it...

Emer \ Gia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cynthia J Ley" <cley@juno.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2004 1:39 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Has Joanne Fabrics really sunk this low?


> Margo writes:
> > I worked for Jo-Anne's back when it was House of Fabrics, and our
> > district
> > manager actually told me, "The company knows they don't have to pay
> > more
> > than minimum wage, because this is a housewife's job."
>
> Did you report the stupid creep to his boss for being a sexist?
>
> snarlhissspit.....!!
> Arlys
>
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In a message dated 6/3/04 4:41:26 PM Central Daylight Time, 
gia_gavino@comcast.net writes:
Huh.  You know you are right!  This really should be reported to some sort
of government civil rights department.   Speaking from experience, nothing
will generally happen, but a 'record' of this will be kept...somewhere...if
you even want to bother with it...


Since when is being a housewife a sexist issue?  I don't understand this.  To 
me it seems that the statement was made meaning that it's the type of job 
that is generally taken by women who are looking for a little extra income, not a 
career.

Besides, the post did not specify whether the district manager who made the 
comment was a male or a female.  When I worked for JoAnn's in high school, all 
our managers and district managers were women.

-Tiffany
Non vestimentum virum ornat, sed vir vestimentum.
*******************************
Reflections*of*Worth
http://stores.ebay.com/Reflections-of-Worth
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ribbon embroidery
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In a message dated 6/3/2004 5:27:24 PM Eastern Standard Time, cley@juno.com 
writes:

> I marvel that women could even move in the panniers (sp)! And how do you
> make them?
> 

They are just hoops....like a crinoline essentially, only oval. Sometimes 
they are just at the hips and don't go to the hem. They even dance in them 
y'know.....though not the waltz [but they do waltz in crinolines].

C'mon, you've seen 18th century movies surely. They wear large panniers in 
"Dangerous Liaisons" and "The Madness of King George" [two very good films] and 
do all kinds of movements in them. Of course it's not like wearing sweat pants 
so some movement classes may have been in order...again like a crinoline.

It must be noted however that the blue gown in the picture has got to be a 
court gown and at court there's a lot of just standing around. And even at home 
people of this rank had servants to do just about everything for them.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT Joannes
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> Since when is being a housewife a sexist issue?  I don't understand 
> this.  To 
> me it seems that the statement was made meaning that it's the type 
> of job 
> that is generally taken by women who are looking for a little extra 
> income, not a 
> career.

Being a housewife is a life choice, not a sexist issue. However, assuming
(heavy emphasis on the first syllable) that you can pay people less than
their counterparts elsewhere because "It's a housewife's job" IS. This
devalues women. It also assumes that you as a manager can pay the little
fluffheads less and get away with it. 

Whether the woman in question is looking for some extra income or a
career is beside the point entirely.

Arlys, housewife

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From: "Cindy Abel" <brujne@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT Joannes
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2004 17:06:04 -0500
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Huh.  You know you are right!  This really should be reported to some sort
of government civil rights department.   Speaking from experience, nothing
will generally happen, but a 'record' of this will be kept...somewhere...if
you even want to bother with it...


Since when is being a housewife a sexist issue?  I don't understand this.
To
me it seems that the statement was made meaning that it's the type of job
that is generally taken by women who are looking for a little extra income,
not a
career.

Besides, the post did not specify whether the district manager who made the
comment was a male or a female.  When I worked for JoAnn's in high school,
all
our managers and district managers were women.

 But this "just a housewife" or "just [fill in the blank with the term of
your choice]" still sort of "bad mouths" what it takes to do a job as a
reason to pay the help poorly and has been the unfortunate side of any form
of commercial enterprise especially since the Industrial Revolution.

Library work and teaching are just two careers that pay badly(unless you get
into the male/management dominated top jobs )because traditionally they were
temporary/high turnover jobs dominated by single "just until you get
married" or elderly "old maids" or widows who supposedly didn't need or
merit the same pay as men.  This, of course, has led to the dowdily
historical image of the librarian or teacher as both were constrained by
income and societal pressure to originally dress simply, modestly, and
unfashionably.

Now here's a subject for a thesis, listmembers!

Cindy Abel

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Did anyone else notice?

In Fiona's parents' castle, in the background, twice, I saw a portrait that
looked suspiciously like this:
http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/c/clouet/francois/queen_el.jpg

Of course, they made it huge in the movie, I saw it in the Louvre and it's
only 36 x 26 cm.

Can someone confirm this? Was I just wishing to see it?

It's like seeing the Lady with the Unicorn (the 5 senses) tapestries in
Gryffindor's common room in Harry Potter!
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> What is it with this generation and video
> games?

Erh, well, I guess I have to assume that I don't fit in with my generation
then.
Yeah, I think that's it.
I'm a weirdo :-)
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> I hope this doesn't translate into to many kids not wanting to go to
> college, to few engineers, to few doctors, to few who will stick to
> anything long enough to learn a valuable skill, but I think it might
> actually come to that.

Even today, even in your generation, there are tons of people who do nothing
but drink beer and watch tv! I don't think our generation is any worse than
any that came before.

My problem is that I tend to forget how little other people know and do. I
hang out with people who are either reenactors or university students,
usually, so when I go out "in the real world", that can be a harsh reality
check, I lose track of how uniniterested with *anything* some people can be.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 3, Issue 406
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Status: RO

There's also www.thaisilks.com . Comparable to Dharma both in prices and
quality, and service is good.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Panther Grrl" <panthergirl@lycos.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2004 5:08 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 3, Issue 406


> Off lurking to answer the below....
> http://www.dharmatrading.com/silk_fabrics.html
> This is the best source I have found. You should order all the silk
swatches, to pick & choose. Everything is for silk painting, so its usually
white(they have a small selection of black)
>
> They carry silk twill. They also carry superlative silk dyes. They are
fast, and they have a catalogue.
> I use them, I like them. Unfortunately, to get the really good prices, you
need to buy the bolt...
>
> If you have friends, a  50yd bolt of raw silk can be
> had for less than $4 a yard.  Charmeuse by the bolt is
> $5.87 for 19.5mm(pronounced mummy, and is weight, this is getting into
bridal weight) for a 50yard bolt at
> 45 inches wide.
>
> No other place that I have found beats the price for
> the quality of what you get. Everything is listed by
> fabric content & mm. Swatches will help you decide which weight is best
for you.
>
> >Does anyone have a source for a
> >nice silk twill/sarsenet? The ones I have seen are >all a bit flimsy. Or
would that not be appropriate >for daywear? Would dupioni be an acceptable
>substitute, or is that too stiff/too slubby?
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Find what you are looking for with the Lycos Yellow Pages
>
http://r.lycos.com/r/yp_emailfooter/http://yellowpages.lycos.com/default.asp?SRC=lycos10
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jun  3 19:00:32 2004
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Has Joanne Fabrics really sunk this low?
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At 12:30 PM 6/3/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>The ones who are less knowledgeable can be frustrating at times, but IMO it's
>better to make friends with them and try to help them learn.  They will learn
>quickly or they will decide it's not for them and leave.  If they choose the
>latter then you have lost nothing but a few moments spent being pleasant; if
>they choose the former then you may have made a connection that will serve 
>you
>well.
>
>-Tiffany
>Non vestimentum virum ornat, sed vir vestimentum.


Tiffany,

You have a great attitude. Thanks for sharing your self today.

And btw, what does your latin tagline mean?

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Owner & Creator of DreamTime Studios
http://www.dreamtime-studios.com

"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jun  3 19:13:41 2004
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Has Joanne Fabrics really sunk this low?
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At 09:42 AM 6/3/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Read Emile Zola's "The Ladies' Paradise" for a fictionalized account of how
>a large department store of the 1880's treated its employees and killed
>small family-owned businesses.
>
>Cindy Abel


And go to Wal-Mart today and see how in real life a large department store 
of the 21st Century treats it employees, actively works its employees onto 
Medi-Cal or other government "health insurance", so it doesn't have to 
provide proper benefits, and kills many small family-owned business in many 
small cities and neighborhoods by dropping prices. Heck, even major toy 
stores can't compete anymore.

I studied Wal-Marts practices during business courses in college, and I am 
watching it happen time and again. My own small home town is about to get a 
Wal-Mart, and its downtown merchants are not going to survive.

btw, in all sense of fairness, I just came from Wal-Mart where I couldn't 
find much decent fabric materials to make shirts from. Even with the 
$1.00/yd bins and quilt materials. But then I am picky, I want real cotton 
or linen fabrics, and not 80% polyester "wrinkle ease" crap that doesn't 
breathe. My problem is that my closest fabric store is now 20 minutes away, 
and Wal-Mart was down the street. As it is I won't buy the cheaply made 
clothes there that just doesn't fit at all. Not to mention just how dirty 
that store was, with stuff on the floor that the nearby employee is too 
busy chatting to get around to picking up.

And I better get off this rant against Wal-Mart before it's too late....

Kimiko
One who is willing to pay more for quality products and good service.
No, I am not bitter today...


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] home economics & Sewing
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At 07:32 AM 6/3/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>The low performing kids
>actually can excel in this, and they get a kick out of such a fun, get out
>of your seats activity.  And never figure out that I am teaching them a way
>of following instructions.....
>Rowena


Rowena, that is a great gift to give those students. I hope you find 
another position where you can affect such a great positive change in a 
kids life.

Kimiko


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Date: Thu, 03 Jun 2004 16:22:28 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Shinrone gown pattern from Reconstructing History
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At 01:14 PM 6/3/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>Has anyone else made this gown, and if so, how did you handle the bodice 
>construction?
>
>Like I said, if you haven't seen the pattern, my verbal description may 
>not mean very much. If you have questions, I can try to clarify.
>
>I look forward to some discussion on this. Any discussion!
>
>is mise le meas,
>Pandora
>Everett, WA



Hi Pandora,

The pattern maker used to be on this list, Kass... you still here?

I was going to remake the outfit myself in the future, but I haven't the 
time right now. I say remake, because I made my own version of this dress 
years ago (when the Internet was text only), based only on the picture of 
the front of the gown and a written description of what it looked like. I 
found only that info from a library book I hunted down at San Jose State. 
Needless to say, the skirt "welts" ended up on the outside, instead of the 
inside, as I didn't know what to do with them. They kinda looked nice that 
way, but now I understand the effect it was intended, kinda like organ pleats.

Anyway, I made the bodice with a separate inner lining of cotton, instead 
of a partial facing like you described. I also added in some boning along 
the front edges, as I made it lace up (loosely) with decorative eyes. I am 
also a plus sized woman, so it needed something there I thought. After 
having worn it, I removed the boning as it really didn't need it, and the 
bones kept digging into my bosom (when I wasn't wearing a corset under it 
all for support).

In reading Kass' description, I can understand the need for the self 
lining. Yes, that skirt is heavy, especially when made of wool. And reading 
that it goes to the bosom area probably means it helps stabilize the front 
opening area as well. She makes note of it being lightly tacked into place, 
probably to hold it up. However, you say it doesn't reach the whole front 
area. "However, the shape of the pattern piece will not result in lining 
that reaches the bust-line nor completely lines the front. Nor will it lie 
flat if one tries to fold on the curved line as given (no kidding)." Is 
this before or after the bodice darts are put into place? I am wondering if 
the bodice darts taking up the extra fabric that the self-facing doesn't cover?

I wish I was more help, but I think Kass would be best to answer your 
questions with her pattern. Have you tried e-mailing Kass directly?

Kimiko

Kimiko Small
Owner ~ DreamTime Studios
http://www.dreamtime-studios.com

"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell
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Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] Shinrone gown pattern from Reconstructing History
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the bodice darts are the last thing that get done, according to Kass' instructions (and it makes sense)

when I folded the bodice front approximately on the line from the pattern, it made kind of a triangle that doubled the front only partly - my understanding, based on the description on the RH website and in "Dress in Ireland" is that the entire front is lined from the bustline down.


SNIP
> 
> In reading Kass' description, I can understand the need for the self 
> lining. Yes, that skirt is heavy, especially when made of wool. And reading 
> that it goes to the bosom area probably means it helps stabilize the front 
> opening area as well. She makes note of it being lightly tacked into place, 
> probably to hold it up. However, you say it doesn't reach the whole front 
> area. "However, the shape of the pattern piece will not result in lining 
> that reaches the bust-line nor completely lines the front. Nor will it lie 
> flat if one tries to fold on the curved line as given (no kidding)." Is 
> this before or after the bodice darts are put into place? I am wondering if 
> the bodice darts taking up the extra fabric that the self-facing doesn't cover?
> 
SNIP


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From: "Cat Devereaux" <CatDevereaux@alleycatscratch.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Teaching others how to sew
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2004 16:53:21 -0700
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> What is it with this generation and video
> games?

(Coming out of lurk mode)

Well, some of them are learning how to sew... the hard way by trial and
error.  They see something they want bad enough, and they try.
Sometimes with interesting results.

I'm one of the mods over at Lord of the Rings Costume.  We get numerous
folks who have never sewing anything before, or just made an apron or
pillow and want to tackle a LOTR velvet gown.  Some are kids, but we've
also gotten moms, grandmothers and dads.  Sometimes they're working
alone.  Sometimes together.  Our response ended up building a team of 9
moderators plus a whole support group... and we just dig in and find
links... and pound our heads elsewhere when a basic sewing question gets
asked for the 100th time that year.  But now, we often have links to
send them to.  

We'd never planned to try and teach, but it's been happening that way.
But the cool thing is, we're all learning.  Anyone who has time, puts
together their own little bit and we end up with a great spider web of
links and pages.  It's kinda shocking when we look back on our
history... but it's cool to see what these so called "beginners" are
making now.  Scary in fact.  It's also a bit fun to listen to the 16
year-olds help each other by giving tips on how they modified their
muslins.   (Strange, things do wear off onto others.)

Also, we're not the only ones to end up starting beginning sections.
http://www.patternreview.com has a great board for asking question...
and they've started beginning on line classes.
http://www.sew-whats-new.com goes more towards quilters, but has
beginning sewing classes on line and a discussion board.

So... home ec is dead... partially culturally, partially from budget
cuts... but it to seems to have moved out onto the web... sometimes more
accidentally than planned... but... people have a quest for knowledge
and some can't help but stop when someone else asks a question.

-Cat-
http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr/ 

PS.  Did you know that zippers are period for both the 2nd and 3rd age
of middle-earth???  We have the documentation! <G>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Shrek II
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2004 6:14 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Shrek II


> Did anyone else notice?
>
> In Fiona's parents' castle, in the background, twice, I saw a portrait
that
> looked suspiciously like this:
> http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/c/clouet/francois/queen_el.jpg
>


Whilst playing Might and Magic VI, I noticed that many, many of the windows
in the buildings look like a stained glass image of a picture from the Tres
Riches Heures of the Duc de Berry. It's difficult to make out, as it is a
blurry image on a rather old game, but it looks like a cropped image of the
lady on horseback from either May or August.

Dianne

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Well, I'm not putting anyone in particular, or any age group in
particular down.  I'm merely noting that of my three daughters and
friends, I know a bunch who will sit and watch TV or play video games
til early in the morning but won't go to school or work.  

My son in law plays video games while feeding his toddlers with cheeetos
and Mountain Dew while my daugter works.  He's in jail right now, so I'm
watching the little ones.   the 9 month old was raised to sit in his Car
seat and watch tv so his daddy can play.  he hadn't had solid foods til
just two weeks ago when  he came here to live.  he was still choking on
crackers.  

of my daughters, DD#1 will sew if she wants something special, DD#3 sews
hippy clothes and makes macrame, and DD#2 won't do anything which
requires her to get off the couch.  I have to give it to Her though, she
actually will go to work, as opposed to her husband.   Somehow I failed
to share any of my interests or passions to any of my kids.   I'm trying
harder with the grandkids, but they're a little small yet.  LOL  

Anyway, anything I might say about young people is filtered through the
eyes of one who sees to much of what I wish I didn't have to see.   I
don't know any young people who are interested seeing, hearing, or doing
anything much other than watching TV or hanging out with friends.  it's
depressing.   
Kitty

Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:
> 
> > I hope this doesn't translate into to many kids not wanting to go to
> > college, to few engineers, to few doctors, to few who will stick to
> > anything long enough to learn a valuable skill, but I think it might
> > actually come to that.
> 
> Even today, even in your generation, there are tons of people who do nothing
> but drink beer and watch tv! I don't think our generation is any worse than
> any that came before.
> 
> My problem is that I tend to forget how little other people know and do. I
> hang out with people who are either reenactors or university students,
> usually, so when I go out "in the real world", that can be a harsh reality
> check, I lose track of how uniniterested with *anything* some people can be.
> _______________________________________________
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Wool (was First time Regency)
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2004 20:44:54 -0400
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On Thursday 03 June 2004 03:59 pm, basyefelton@floodcity.net wrote:
[snip]

>  and if I remember right, it doesn't absorb odors, which is a blessing
> since it is hard to clean. [snip]

On the other hand, the worsted suits I own tend to be water-repellent and 
stain-resistant, which automatically makes cleaning less of an issue.   
(Though I am sure many list members will post to advise you that they have 
washed wool with impunity.)

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A man cannot be too careful in the choice of his enemies." 
-Oscar Wilde
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Has Joanne Fabrics really sunk this low?
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Margo writes:
> I worked for Jo-Anne's back when it was House of Fabrics, and our 
> district
> manager actually told me, "The company knows they don't have to pay 
> more
> than minimum wage, because this is a housewife's job."

Did you report the stupid creep to his boss for being a sexist?

snarlhissspit.....!!
Arlys

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] First time Regency
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>From my memory ........ which is good at remembering facts but sometimes I mismatch them, there is a chemical reaction that takes place when wool gets wet that causes its temperature to rise.  But it does still breath, which makes it nice for summer if light weight.  Much better than polyester.  Wool is also self extinguishing.

Lisa Sinervo

---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: AlbertCat@aol.com
Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date:  Thu, 3 Jun 2004 14:57:17 EDT

>In a message dated 6/3/2004 2:33:15 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
>gia_gavino@comcast.net writes:
>
>> I think it has
>> to do with the fact the wool breathes, wicks persperation and allows breezes
>> to evaporate out the sweat easier. 
>
>I thought wool was the only thing that was warm even when it was wet because 
>it holds in heat. I made wool aprons for some girls in costume who were 
>cooking at an open hearth in an 18th century house. They said the wool would 
>extinguish any embers that might fall on the apron...it's hard to get wool to 
>ignite... and the wool reflected the heat from the fire.
>
>Is this true?
>_______________________________________________
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>
 
             
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jun  3 22:06:36 2004
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Date: Thu, 03 Jun 2004 22:03:12 -0400
From: Kitty Felton <basyefelton@floodcity.net>
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thanks Cat, I guess I forgot.  

I too have helped others to find the answers to how to do something here
in our online community now and then.  it's sad though that more can't
find help locally, hands on help is so much easier.   
	On a brighter note, I was struggling with upsizing a size 22 B-cup
princess seamed jumper to a size 30 D-cup.  I struggled with it for a
month or more and finally took it to a local seamstress and she told me
how to do it and never charged me anything.  I was amazed, I was
prepared to pay her for her time.  

Cat Devereaux wrote:
> 
> > What is it with this generation and video
> > games?
> 
> (Coming out of lurk mode)
> 
> Well, some of them are learning how to sew... the hard way by trial and
> error.  They see something they want bad enough, and they try.
> Sometimes with interesting results.
> 
> I'm one of the mods over at Lord of the Rings Costume.  We get numerous
> folks who have never sewing anything before, or just made an apron or
> pillow and want to tackle a LOTR velvet gown.  Some are kids, but we've
> also gotten moms, grandmothers and dads.  Sometimes they're working
> alone.  Sometimes together.  Our response ended up building a team of 9
> moderators plus a whole support group... and we just dig in and find
> links... and pound our heads elsewhere when a basic sewing question gets
> asked for the 100th time that year.  But now, we often have links to
> send them to.
> 
> We'd never planned to try and teach, but it's been happening that way.
> But the cool thing is, we're all learning.  Anyone who has time, puts
> together their own little bit and we end up with a great spider web of
> links and pages.  It's kinda shocking when we look back on our
> history... but it's cool to see what these so called "beginners" are
> making now.  Scary in fact.  It's also a bit fun to listen to the 16
> year-olds help each other by giving tips on how they modified their
> muslins.   (Strange, things do wear off onto others.)
> 
> Also, we're not the only ones to end up starting beginning sections.
> http://www.patternreview.com has a great board for asking question...
> and they've started beginning on line classes.
> http://www.sew-whats-new.com goes more towards quilters, but has
> beginning sewing classes on line and a discussion board.
> 
> So... home ec is dead... partially culturally, partially from budget
> cuts... but it to seems to have moved out onto the web... sometimes more
> accidentally than planned... but... people have a quest for knowledge
> and some can't help but stop when someone else asks a question.
> 
> -Cat-
> http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr/
> 
> PS.  Did you know that zippers are period for both the 2nd and 3rd age
> of middle-earth???  We have the documentation! <G>
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
> 
> 
> On the other hand, the worsted suits I own tend to be water-repellent and
> stain-resistant, which automatically makes cleaning less of an issue.


LOL, OH yeah, right, I was going to say that.  teehee. 



> (Though I am sure many list members will post to advise you that they have
> washed wool with impunity.)
> 

  but doesn't wool need to be either a blend or treated with
formaldahyde to make it washable without shrinking?   

Kitty

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On Thursday 03 June 2004 10:07 pm, Kitty Felton wrote:
> Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
> > On the other hand, the worsted suits I own tend to be water-repellent and
> > stain-resistant, which automatically makes cleaning less of an issue.
>
> LOL, OH yeah, right, I was going to say that.  teehee.
>
> > (Though I am sure many list members will post to advise you that they
> > have washed wool with impunity.)
>
>   but doesn't wool need to be either a blend or treated with
> formaldahyde to make it washable without shrinking?

Ah, but who said anything about it's not shrinking?  What some do is to wash 
the wool fabric before it's made up.  What you end up with is tightly fulled 
cloth that's smaller, but won't shrink any more (or so I'm told).

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A man cannot be too careful in the choice of his enemies." 
-Oscar Wilde
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Wool (was First time Regency)
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Hi!  I used to never wash my wool until my (ex)husband threw one of my gowns
in the washer and dryer.  I discovered that it didn't shrink, even though is
was 100% wool.  That's when I decided to think more about what I wanted to
make with it, when it came to deciding whether or not to wash my wool or
not.  For example:  wash and dry on hot settings to 'felt' the wool for my
cape.  Also my summer gowns were washed and dried on hot settings and they
barely shrank at all.

When I make modern suits, I don't prewash my wool at all, since I know that
my suits will be dry cleaned anyways.  I put too much infrastructure into
the suit pieces to risk having all that hand work for the lapels, sleeve
head support and other support touches ruined in the washer and dryer.

But maybe my experiences with washing and drying wool are just flukes
peculiar to me?  I dunno, but whatever, it just seems to work for me.

Happy Stitching!
 Emer/Gia
>
>   but doesn't wool need to be either a blend or treated with
> formaldahyde to make it washable without shrinking?
>
> Kitty
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Wool (was First time Regency)
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>> Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
>>
> Ah, but who said anything about it's not shrinking?  What some do is to
> wash  the wool fabric before it's made up.  What you end up with is
> tightly fulled  cloth that's smaller, but won't shrink any more (or so
> I'm told).
>
> --
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

ooooh, I don't know.  all I hear says that with the way wool is made up,
with all the little barbs on it that open as you wet them, any movement
will make it shrink up everytime it is wetted.  that's why drycleaning
became so popular, the little barbs don't open when you use drycleaning
fluid so it doesn't felt up when it is submerged and agitated.

anyway, my info says it will shrink more each time it is washed, but maybe
not as much.  that's why you are supposed to draw around the garment
before washing it.  so you can stretch it out to it's previous size before
it drys.  Kitty


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------------------
In Fiona's parents' castle, in the background, twice, I saw a portrait 
that looked suspiciously like this:
http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/c/clouet/francois/queen_el.jpg
Of course, they made it huge in the movie, I saw it in the Louvre and 
it's only 36 x 26 cm.

Can someone confirm this? Was I just wishing to see it?
--------------------------
I saw it too!  bounced in the theatre, and then felt like a total geek 
for noticing it!

Wendy Z
Chicago

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Wool (was First time Regency)
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wow, that's amazing!   I wonder where my info came from?  I know
traditionally it would shrink.  think they treat most wool now to control
shrinkage?   well, whatever.  I guess it's a matter of trial and error.  
I think if I wanted to wash and dry a wool garment I would test drive a
half yard or so.   just to see what it did.   Kitty


> Hi!  I used to never wash my wool until my (ex)husband threw one of my
> gowns in the washer and dryer.  I discovered that it didn't shrink, even
> though is was 100% wool.  That's when I decided to think more about what
> I wanted to make with it, when it came to deciding whether or not to
> wash my wool or not.  For example:  wash and dry on hot settings to
> 'felt' the wool for my cape.  Also my summer gowns were washed and dried
> on hot settings and they barely shrank at all.
>
> When I make modern suits, I don't prewash my wool at all, since I know
> that my suits will be dry cleaned anyways.  I put too much
> infrastructure into the suit pieces to risk having all that hand work
> for the lapels, sleeve head support and other support touches ruined in
> the washer and dryer.
>
> But maybe my experiences with washing and drying wool are just flukes
> peculiar to me?  I dunno, but whatever, it just seems to work for me.
>
> Happy Stitching!
>  Emer/Gia
>>
>>   but doesn't wool need to be either a blend or treated with
>> formaldahyde to make it washable without shrinking?
>>
>> Kitty
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
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>
>
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From: "Tonkin, Rebecca (PIRSA-SARDI)" <tonkin.rebecca@saugov.sa.gov.au>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2004 12:54:48 +0930 
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Subject: [h-cost] wool (washing)
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Hi:
Wool has a structure very similar to hair. It is a protein, and has little
scales along it's length. When heated and rubbed together, as in washed in
hot soapy water or tumble-dried, some of these scales lock together, causing
fulling (in a woven cloth) or felting (if it's fleece). The degree to which
this will cause shrinking depends on the process used to produce the cloth
(woolen vs. worsted), the tightness of the weave, any pre-treatments (eg.
washable wool) and the type of wool (fine/coarse). 
Some wool cloth is hardly affected, others full up into thick soft cloth
with a lot of shrinking. It may take several washes, depending on the wool
type, for the shrinking to stop, but eventually, all the fibres that can
possibly lock together will be locked, and it can't shrink/full any further.
Ready-made suits that are sold as "dry-clean only" generally don't take
machine-washing well as the cloth is not pre-treated to handle
heat/agitation. Also all the things like shoulder-pads and linings aren't
generally made for it.
"Washable wool" is wool that has either been pre-shrunk in the factory, or
has been treated in some way. One of the ways is to coat the fibres with a
resin, which seals the scales down so they can't open up and lock together.
Worsted wools frequently don't shrink much, partly because of factory
processing and partly because of the way the threads are produced. They can
become a little fuzzy and lose the shiny look though.
If you are making a garment that you want to machine wash, wash the fabric
in the way you will wash the garment a few times, so that any shrinking is
done before cutting out.
Incidentally, cloth may shrink more in one direction than another, depending
on how it was woven.
There are many posts in the archives on this topic - search for "worsted"
"woollen" "fulling" etc.
Regards,
Rebecca
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Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2004 20:48:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dawn Jacobson <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
To: h-costume <h-costume@net.indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Dutch Renaissance Middle Class sources
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Here is a list of some books on Renaissance Flanders:

Ramsay, G.D. The End of the Antwerp mart, Vol. 1: The
City of London in International Politics at the
Accession of Elizabeth Tudor. ISBN 0-7190-0585-X

Ramsay, G.E. The End of the Antwerp mart, Vol. 2: The
Queen's Merchants and the Revolt of the Netherlands.
ISBN 0-7190-1849-8

Schama, Simon. The Embarrassment of Riches: An
Interpretation of Dutch Culture in the Golden Age.
ISBN 0-520-06147-0

Howell, Martha C. The Marriage Exchange: Property,
Social Place, and Gender in Cities of the Low
Countries, 1300-1550. ISBN 0-226-35515-2

Honig, Elizabeth Alice. Painting and the Market in
Early Modern Antwerp. ISBN 0-300-07239-2

Some of these may be out of print, but are probably
available through abebooks.com

Dawn

=====
Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are just the costumes we wear every day.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Wool (was First time Regency)
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2004 00:29:10 -0400
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I always wash/dry the heck out of the wool before I sew with it, shrinkage
seems to depend on how much of a twist the thread that makes up the weave
has, and the weave itself.

I love how lightly fulled wool feels when it comes out of the dryer, often
it is much softer than I expected. But then I'm just a wool junkie. :-) I'll
happily wear it year-round.

Sheridan



Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Wool (was First time Regency)


> wow, that's amazing!   I wonder where my info came from?  I know
> traditionally it would shrink.  think they treat most wool now to control
> shrinkage?   well, whatever.  I guess it's a matter of trial and error.
> I think if I wanted to wash and dry a wool garment I would test drive a
> half yard or so.   just to see what it did.   Kitty
>
>
> > Hi!  I used to never wash my wool until my (ex)husband threw one of my
> > gowns in the washer and dryer.  I discovered that it didn't shrink, even
> > though is was 100% wool.  That's when I decided to think more about what
> > I wanted to make with it, when it came to deciding whether or not to
> > wash my wool or not.  For example:  wash and dry on hot settings to
> > 'felt' the wool for my cape.  Also my summer gowns were washed and dried
> > on hot settings and they barely shrank at all.
> >
> > When I make modern suits, I don't prewash my wool at all, since I know
> > that my suits will be dry cleaned anyways.  I put too much
> > infrastructure into the suit pieces to risk having all that hand work
> > for the lapels, sleeve head support and other support touches ruined in
> > the washer and dryer.
> >
> > But maybe my experiences with washing and drying wool are just flukes
> > peculiar to me?  I dunno, but whatever, it just seems to work for me.
> >
> > Happy Stitching!
> >  Emer/Gia
> >>
> >>   but doesn't wool need to be either a blend or treated with
> >> formaldahyde to make it washable without shrinking?
> >>
> >> Kitty
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> h-costume mailing list
> >> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Has Joanne Fabrics really sunk this low?
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>
> And go to Wal-Mart today and see how in real life a large department store
> of the 21st Century treats it employees, actively works its employees onto
> Medi-Cal or other government "health insurance", so it doesn't have to
> provide proper benefits, and kills many small family-owned business in
many
> small cities and neighborhoods by dropping prices. Heck, even major toy
> stores can't compete anymore.
>
> I studied Wal-Marts practices during business courses in college, and I am
> watching it happen time and again. My own small home town is about to get
a
> Wal-Mart, and its downtown merchants are not going to survive.
>
> btw, in all sense of fairness, I just came from Wal-Mart where I couldn't
> find much decent fabric materials to make shirts from. Even with the
> $1.00/yd bins and quilt materials. But then I am picky, I want real cotton
> or linen fabrics, and not 80% polyester "wrinkle ease" crap that doesn't
> breathe. My problem is that my closest fabric store is now 20 minutes
away,
> and Wal-Mart was down the street. As it is I won't buy the cheaply made
> clothes there that just doesn't fit at all. Not to mention just how dirty
> that store was, with stuff on the floor that the nearby employee is too
> busy chatting to get around to picking up.
>
> And I better get off this rant against Wal-Mart before it's too late....
>
> Kimiko
> One who is willing to pay more for quality products and good service.
> No, I am not bitter today...


I can commisserate. I have lived in two cities now that have lost *all* of
their independant bookstores due to a Chapters/Indigo/Big Box Bookstore
moving in. It got to the point I could not order any of the books I needed
unless I went through the University bookstore or the publisher directly.
Most of the big bookstores cannot/will not order anything unless it is on
their own websites. Very frustrating when there is only one bookstore in
town, and they cannot get what you need. :-p

Sheridan


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----- Original Message -----
From: "Gail & Scott Finke" <gailscott@eos.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2004 11:25 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 3, Issue 403


> Cynthia Virtue wrote:
>
> >>> A well-executed gown in the proper style for whatevery historical
period
> >>> you like, will look good on any size person.  Sure, if you're a size
24,
> >>> you won't look like a slender woman, but you can look queenly or
elegant
> >>> or fashionable no matter what size you are, if you make the right
choices.
> >>
<snip> It's possible to make gorgeous Baroque gowns fit today's
> supermodels, but think Uma Thermond in "Dangerous Liaisons" -- it won't
look
> quite right. If possible, I would recommend that people look for styles
and
> periods that favor their shapes. If that's not what you want, then by all
> means make whatever period you like. There were always people who didn't
fit
> the ideal, so why not you? But recognize ahead of time that you won't look
> like the picture postcard example. I would look terrible in flapper gear,
> for example. No matter how much I made it fit, it would not flatter me.
>
> Gail Finke

The example I always think of is Gwyneth Paltrow in Emma she just doesn't
have the bust to pull off those styles (and there are plenty of early 19th
century satirical cartoons about women who are too skinny and don't look
good in the fashions), and if you don't fit the fashionable ideal you won't
look good in the really fashionable clothes, therefore if you need to do a
particular time period you look at how women who had a figure similar to
yours would have adapted the fashions to suit their unfashionable body
shape. The same way we do now, I don't fit the supermodel ideal therefore I
can't wear runway fashions and still look good but I can take elements and
adapt them to a form that is more suited to my figure.
Elizabeth
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
Elizabeth Beaumont              Elizabeth Walpole
Politarchopolis, Lochac     Canberra Australia
             ewalpole@austar.net.au

People are like stained glass windows. They sparkle and shine when the sun
is out, but when the darkness sets in ,their true beauty is revealed only if
there is light from within.
Elizabeth Kubler-Ross

The years that a woman subtracts from her age are not lost. They are added
to the ages of other women.
Diane de Poitiers (1499-1566) Attrib.

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Subject: [h-cost] armseye redrafting
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Kitty wrote:

Ok, I might be able to help, but what exactly do you mean by too large,
is the hole to large, do you want it tighter?  a closer fitting sleeve
and bodice? HOW does the bust line pull, where do the wrinkles point
to?  I did redraft a princess seam for a d cup for myself, and I also
have slightly rounded shoulders, so I can perhaps visualize what you are
saying, but I don't understand what you want for sure.

Kitty

I know - my question wasn't clear; let me see if I can clarify:

Yes, I want the hole smaller, and the sleeve to become correspondingly
narrower to go with it. I want to try this (Tiffany - this IS the muslin I'm
struggling with!) because I've already narrowed the front piece to remove
the extra fabric that droops unattractively because my shoulders are
slightly rounded.

The problem is that when I reach forward, I still get some "bagging" right
above the bust, yet it pulls the back; overall the drape of the entire
garment doesn't look very good.

I'm willing to entertain ideas that don't involve redrafting the armseye
and/or sleeve, but it's the one thing I haven't tried yet.

Thoughts?

Thanks for your attention!

Allison T.

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Subject: [h-cost] Painting and the Market in Early Modern Antwerp. 
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That's it!!  A great book for Flemish paintings between 1550 and 
1650.   Lots of working class and middle class ... Author is Honig - I 
remembered that much at least... <geez feeling old>  One of my favorite 
paintings is in this book.

Thank you Dawn for posting that... I looked for the book last night and 
couldn't find it.  Drove myself nuts trying to remember the title.   - 
thanks again.  Bridgette.

>Painting and the Market in Early Modern Antwerp.

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] First time Regency
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Butterick has a new pattern out for stays and corsets. Looks like 18-th to 19th century to me.  And got mine last night at the 99-cent sale at Jo-annes'. They were just putting the new ones out at my store, so I had to look in the books to see if there was anything *new*. The nuber is 4254 in case the link doesn't work.

http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?s.item.100004254=x&TI=10001&pageNum=5&M=&UK=33070276


Crissy



> Hi!  Actually I've used a very nice light weight wool for some of my italian
> renaissance gowns.  When wearing the gowns of the wool, I actually found
> them to be much cooler and easier to do work in hot weather.  I think it has
> to do with the fact the wool breathes, wicks persperation and allows breezes
> to evaporate out the sweat easier.  100% Linen is the best for hot weather
> (IMO), but wool is a wonderful natural fiber for both hot and cold weather.
> Much more versatile than cotton.
> 
> Anyhoo, just  my own experiences.  I'm sure others will have had just the
> reverse...
> Happy stitches!
> 
> Gia
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Danielle Nunn-Weinberg" <dannw@eudoramail.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2004 6:15 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] First time Regency
> 
> 
> > How about wool?  A lightweight wool is always nice and usually drapes
> beautifully - not great for summer but lovely for the rest of the year.
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Danielle
> >
> > --------- Original Message ---------
> > >In a message dated 6/2/2004 1:46:24 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> > >AnnBWass@aol.com writes:
> > >
> > >> Does anyone have a source for a
> > >> nice silk twill/sarsenet? The ones I have seen are all a bit flimsy. Or
> > >> would that not be appropriate for daywear? Would dupioni be an
> > >> acceptable substitute, or is that too stiff/too slubby?
> > >>
> > >
> > >Don't use dupioni unless there's a plaid or something that is just what
> you
> > >were thinking of. If the colors are perfect, I can forgive the dupioni.
> It will
> > >soften up if you wash it in hot water.
> > >
> > >Linen is great. But if it's winter [or summer for that matter] I think
> silk
> > >for day is ok....as long as it's not outrageously opulent. A china silk
> gown
> > >would be lov-er-ly. A window pane or check silk would be cute. With a
> silk twill
> > >pelisse. If you find the right twill but it's too light, flatline it with
> > >something the right weight.
> > >_______________________________________________
> > >h-costume mailing list
> > >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > Need a new email address that people can remember
> > Check out the new EudoraMail at
> > http://www.eudoramail.com
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> 
> 
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In a message dated 6/4/2004 8:42:43 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
sewinggoddess@att.net writes:
http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?s.item.100004254=x&TI=
10001&pageNum=5&M=&UK=33070276
This looks like mid 18th and mid 19th century to me--no early 19th century 
there.

Ann Wass
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Subject: [h-cost] Two new books on women's clothing 1877-1882
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Lavolta Press has just published _Fashions of the Gilded Age_, a two-volume
anthology that contains a wardrobe of women's styles from 1877 through 1882.
The 343 patterns and 798 illustrations were selected from numerous sources
and edited for this anthology.  One major source is a German pattern book,
translated into English for the first time.  It includes patterns to be
enlarged with apportioning scales (special rulers that enable you to produce
custom sizes without doing arithmetic).  Another is 112 issues of _Harper's
Bazar_ with their pattern supplements.

Volume 1 contains patterns for corsets (one is an Aesthetic corset, called
the Japanese Corset), bustles, lingerie, skirts, day bodices, evening
bodices, overskirts, polonaises, and day dresses.  Volume 2 focuses on
evening dresses, ball gowns, wedding dresses, sidesaddle riding habits,
bathing costumes, and outerwear (one pattern is for a Worth mantle).  It
also includes millinery, hairstyles, accessories, and needlework trimmings.
In both volumes quotes from various fashion magazines and etiquette manuals
give additional information on construction, materials, trimmings, and
wardrobe planning.  Volume 2 includes an illustrated 87-page manual, created
for this book, on dressmaking, corset making, tailoring, and millinery
techniques.

Both volumes have been received from our printer.  Each can be purchased and
used independently.  There is more information on our web site,
http://www.lavoltapress.com.


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Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2004 09:33:51 EDT
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Wool (was First time Regency)
To: h-costume@indra.com
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In a message dated 6/3/2004 10:51:09 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
gia_gavino@comcast.net writes:

> But maybe my experiences with washing and drying wool are just flukes
> peculiar to me?  I dunno, but whatever, it just seems to work for me.
> 

I once tried to dye in cold water a wool crepe 1940s dress. When it came out 
of the cold dye bath, it might've fit the cat! [too bad, it was a great dress 
too]

So be careful. Perhaps the weave makes a big difference.
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] First time Regency
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2004 16:22:52 +0200
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Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh, you have lightened me up in this mystery.
This corset is used by nearly every women in the Gustavian Society. I
wondered where they had it from
Thanks.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <sewinggoddess@att.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, June 04, 2004 2:42 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] First time Regency


>
> Butterick has a new pattern out for stays and corsets. Looks like 18-th to
19th century to me.  And got mine last night at the 99-cent sale at
Jo-annes'. They were just putting the new ones out at my store, so I had to
look in the books to see if there was anything *new*. The nuber is 4254 in
case the link doesn't work.
>
>
http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?s.item.100004254=x&TI=10001&pageNum=5&M=&UK=33070276
>
>
> Crissy
>
>
>
> > Hi!  Actually I've used a very nice light weight wool for some of my
italian
> > renaissance gowns.  When wearing the gowns of the wool, I actually found
> > them to be much cooler and easier to do work in hot weather.  I think it
has
> > to do with the fact the wool breathes, wicks persperation and allows
breezes
> > to evaporate out the sweat easier.  100% Linen is the best for hot
weather
> > (IMO), but wool is a wonderful natural fiber for both hot and cold
weather.
> > Much more versatile than cotton.
> >
> > Anyhoo, just  my own experiences.  I'm sure others will have had just
the
> > reverse...
> > Happy stitches!
> >
> > Gia
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Danielle Nunn-Weinberg" <dannw@eudoramail.com>
> > To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2004 6:15 PM
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] First time Regency
> >
> >
> > > How about wool?  A lightweight wool is always nice and usually drapes
> > beautifully - not great for summer but lovely for the rest of the year.
> > >
> > > Cheers,
> > > Danielle
> > >
> > > --------- Original Message ---------
> > > >In a message dated 6/2/2004 1:46:24 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> > > >AnnBWass@aol.com writes:
> > > >
> > > >> Does anyone have a source for a
> > > >> nice silk twill/sarsenet? The ones I have seen are all a bit
flimsy. Or
> > > >> would that not be appropriate for daywear? Would dupioni be an
> > > >> acceptable substitute, or is that too stiff/too slubby?
> > > >>
> > > >
> > > >Don't use dupioni unless there's a plaid or something that is just
what
> > you
> > > >were thinking of. If the colors are perfect, I can forgive the
dupioni.
> > It will
> > > >soften up if you wash it in hot water.
> > > >
> > > >Linen is great. But if it's winter [or summer for that matter] I
think
> > silk
> > > >for day is ok....as long as it's not outrageously opulent. A china
silk
> > gown
> > > >would be lov-er-ly. A window pane or check silk would be cute. With a
> > silk twill
> > > >pelisse. If you find the right twill but it's too light, flatline it
with
> > > >something the right weight.
> > > >_______________________________________________
> > > >h-costume mailing list
> > > >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Need a new email address that people can remember
> > > Check out the new EudoraMail at
> > > http://www.eudoramail.com
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Two new books on women's clothing 1877-1882
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2004 09:51:36 -0500
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I'm looking forward to these books. The previous ones have been excellent.
Thanks, Frances!

-E

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Subject: [h-cost] silk sources (was:  Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 3, Issue 406)
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Don't forget http://www.silkconnection.com , where the prices are lower than
Dharma or ThaiSilks, especialy if you're willing to buy in bulk. Like
Dharma, they pretty much only have white and the occasional black. Since I
buy my dye from Dharma, I generally only order from SilkConnection if I plan
to order enough to make up for paying the shipping from two places.

Which, PS, reminds me of a lesson I learned the painful way: trying to dye
silk black is a nightmare and a migraine and all sorts of other nasty
painful things all rolled into one. If you need black silk, buy black silk.

-E

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From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <032A8573186A2B4EBBAEFA5784D0523508BF0E@sagemsg0007.sagemsmrd01.sa.gov.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wool (washing)
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2004 11:18:43 -0500
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Another thing is that sometimes, you just really don't want to try to shrink
a wool as far as it'll shrink, even if it's meant to be fulled. If you
shrink it too far, you'll wind up with this tiny, spongy, overly dense mess
that's nearly impossible to sew, by hand or by machine. I stupidly did that
once with 5 yards of already fulled, already shrunken wool, and wound up
with 3 yards of wool that was a quarter of an inch thick! It was so pretty,
and now it's good for nothing. I an get a needle through it, just barely,
but anything made out of it looks like it's made out of cardboard, and the
stitches are both too loose to hold well, and so tight that they sink 1/8"
into it.

I generaly shrink my wool some--a portion, it's hard to explain exactly how
much, other than that I just wash it a single time under conditions slightly
harsher than I ever plan to use again. Often, for me this means dying it and
then rinsing it a bunch, which is certainly harsher than just hand washing
and hanging or tumbling it dry with no heat. The garment generally does
shrink a bit anyway, but I've found that if I iron it on the lowest steam
setting (which I'd do anyway) it gets stretched back out just enough to
exactly match what it was before.

-E

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Date: Fri, 04 Jun 2004 14:15:43 -0400
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT Joannes
From: ruthanne baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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on 6/3/04 6:02 PM, Cynthia J Ley at cley@juno.com wrote:

>> Since when is being a housewife a sexist issue?  I don't understand
>> this.  To 
>> me it seems that the statement was made meaning that it's the type
>> of job 
>> that is generally taken by women who are looking for a little extra
>> income, not a 
>> career.
> 
> Being a housewife is a life choice, not a sexist issue. However, assuming
> (heavy emphasis on the first syllable) that you can pay people less than
> their counterparts elsewhere because "It's a housewife's job" IS. This
> devalues women. It also assumes that you as a manager can pay the little
> fluffheads less and get away with it.
> 
> Whether the woman in question is looking for some extra income or a
> career is beside the point entirely.

Exactly. But this concept is also how part-time teaching at the university
level became such a money-saver. Traditionally part-timers were of two
types: the expert professional needed to teach a specialized course or two
but theoretically self-supporting in his or her "real" profession (e.g.,
artists, musicians, lawyers, specialized writers such as children's book
authors); and the faculty wife, well educated but supported by her husband's
salary and benefits and just looking for a chance to use her education and
make a little extra money. As long as these people did not look to their
teaching jobs for their "real" income they didn't make much of a fuss over
salary and benefits. THE FACT REMAINS that they were doing the same work
others were getting paid substantially more to do; and now that part-time
teaching is the occupation of half of all university faculty, and people are
trying to combine multiple part-time salaries to make a living, we are
reaping the ugly harvest of the easy economy of the olden days.

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy (okay, yeah, part-timer!) and amateur costumer
> 

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From: "Gia" <gia_gavino@comcast.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] OT workplace sexism?
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Status: RO

*sigh*

I think it's in how things have been interpreted.

For years I have witnessed far more different and demoralizing comments,
innuendos to downright rudenes and discourtesy.  Simply because it's
condoned by a society by simply allowing, dismissing it as "well, she is
deaf and really it doesn't matter".

I've let these things go; basically just ignored these things as I knew that
my emotional and mental well-being was mine to control.  What others say and
do should just slide off my back, like a duck.  But, unfortunately, when
supervisor's and superiors attitudes and bias' are explicitly inherent in
their treatment and communications with their employees which influences the
workplace, then it becomes an issue of an inappropriate workplace
environment.  And this is wrong.

So, yes you are right, people are entitled to their opinions and express
those opinions.  However, those opinions should not affect the environment
of the workplace.

I am NOT saying that this occured in the situation complained about; I don't
know if it did.  I am only sharing information from the perspective of my
own personal experiences.  I am very sure there are many who disagree with
me, and yes that is fine.  Again, this is only my own personal experiences.

I hope this clarifies my comment.  And now, I really think that those who
would like to continue this discussion, please let me know, off the list.

Emer \ Gia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "ruthanne baumgartner" <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, June 04, 2004 11:15 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT Joannes


> on 6/3/04 6:02 PM, Cynthia J Ley at cley@juno.com wrote:
>
> >> Since when is being a housewife a sexist issue?  I don't understand
> >> this.  To
> >> me it seems that the statement was made meaning that it's the type
> >> of job
> >> that is generally taken by women who are looking for a little extra
> >> income, not a
> >> career.


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Subject: [h-cost] home economics & Sewing
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> At 02:00 PM 6/2/2004 -0400, you wrote:
> >They are going to have the Agriculture teacher teach the mandatory Home
> >Ec courses, so absolutely no sewing will get done now.
> >Rowena
> >Who is both working overtime to try to fix my very old house so I can
> >sell it, while Job hunting.  If you see any openings listed......
>
> Rowena, are you still wanting to teach children in your field, or are you
> willing to expand into the private sector? That might help us keep an eye
> out if we know what you are willing to do or not. And with all this talk
of
> teaching kids, have you thought of doing that privately from your home?
>
Right now I have about 5 leads for jobs at least in the right quarter of New
York State  (the very Northeast corner, up by the Vermont/Mass border.   I
am hopeful that one of them will decide that I am not too old or too
expensive for them, but losing my job just when I am about to have my 50th
birthday is making me have to keep fighting from becoming very depressed!
While I would like to keep adding to the 13 years I have in the New York
State Teachers Retirement System,  I am a realist enough (and I have both an
AAS and a BS in Business) to know that I will do whatever I can find a job
doing.   And I know myself well enough to know that I will enjoy the good
parts, and there are always parts of any job that you do not like.  So would
I consider the private sector - of course!   Spent most of my life there.
Did the midlife crisis we-got-divorced-so-he-could-marry-the-blonde thing,
then put myself back into college to get the right degrees and
certifications.  So I have a different perspective on teaching then a lot of
people who are there, anyway.  And I'm weird enough already to most
teachers, because I REALLY REALLY like jr high kids.  I think teaching 8th
grade is the best!
But I also know that I am much better at constantly changing conditions and
work than I am at anything extremely repetitive.   Almost every Principal I
have worked for has commented favorably on an ability I have to "wing it",
no matter what they or the kids throw at me.   Even though I now refuse to
fill in for the gym teacher, ever again (The prime rule became "Do NOT hit
the teacher, I get very very cranky!")


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>In a message dated 6/3/2004 2:33:15 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
>gia_gavino@comcast.net writes:
>
>> I think it has
>> to do with the fact the wool breathes, wicks persperation and allows breezes
>> to evaporate out the sweat easier. 
>
>I thought wool was the only thing that was warm even when it was wet because 
>it holds in heat. I made wool aprons for some girls in costume who were 
>cooking at an open hearth in an 18th century house. They said the wool would 
>extinguish any embers that might fall on the apron...it's hard to get wool to 
>ignite... and the wool reflected the heat from the fire.
>
>Is this true?

Yes, that is why the Navy supplies its personnel with wool socks.  Believe me, it makes a huge difference when you just had a bunch of water from the North Atlantic dumped in your boots and it is snowing out...It makes a huge difference.

Cheers,
Danielle


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Has Joanne Fabrics really sunk this low?
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2004 16:25:48 -0500
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Here we got Barnes and Noble. Because of their limited special ordering the
smaller bookstores survive by accessing more sources and can caterer to
special interests group much easier.
I got my Janet Arnold book through the smaller bookstore because B&N
couldn't get it.

De
-----Original Message-----
I can commisserate. I have lived in two cities now that have lost *all* of
their independant bookstores due to a Chapters/Indigo/Big Box Bookstore
moving in. It got to the point I could not order any of the books I needed
unless I went through the University bookstore or the publisher directly.
Most of the big bookstores cannot/will not order anything unless it is on
their own websites. Very frustrating when there is only one bookstore in
town, and they cannot get what you need. :-p

Sheridan


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-----Original Message-----
In a message dated 6/3/04 10:57:00 AM Central Daylight Time,
lists@margospatterns.com writes:
"The company knows they don't have to pay more
than minimum wage, because this is a housewife's job."

(Tiffany)
It's unfortunate that there are managers who feel this way,


Is it possible that this manager is just repeating what he/she heard from
his superiors or conveying a summury of the higher ups attitude?
He may not agree with the attitude but he is expected to follow proceedure.

De


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Flashy
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Oh, now really not even Teddy would be seen in that outfit, it's much too
subtle!

Stephen Bergdahl - Lord Vich

"I don't suffer from insanity!  I fact I rather enjoy it!"


----- Original Message -----
From: "Cabbage Rose Costumes" <cabbagerose@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 29, 2004 6:18 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Flashy


> Who do you think you are, TEDDY?  bwah ha ha ha.....
>
> Seriously I do theatrical costuming, I'm about to do Pippin.  You folks
who
> do "authentic" medieval better close your eyes... Let's see, we've got a
tye
> dyed hennin and wimple set, leather strappy armor ala "Arthur" the movie,
> and some sheer black net for "leggings."  Your outfit sounds normal to
me...
> SCARY
>
> angela
> +++++
> Angela F. Lazear
> Cabbage Rose Costumes
> www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
> Theatrical Costume Design
>
> "Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:
> be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,
> and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:
> be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
> W. Shakespeare
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
> To: "Historic Costume" <h-costume@net.indra.com>
> Sent: Friday, May 28, 2004 8:24 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] Flashy
>
>
> > I am sorting through my fabric and getting rid of some and repacking
> others
> > with patterns.
> > I came across some yardages of metallic plaid, cotton with colored Mylar
> > shot through. Then suddenly a warped concept came over me. "Lets make
Ren
> > faire kilts and use the thin gilded vinyl for a jerkin with the shimmery
> > gold sheer for the shirt".
> > Wahahahahah (maniacal laughter) hahahahahah.
> > :)
> > De
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Sorry but I have to get this off my chest.  THIS IS WHY MY SON DOES NOT
WATCH TV!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I know what TV did to me from watching too much, and I am not putting my son
though the sort of pain I went through to get a life.  Pull the plug, and
they will find something else too do.  My biggest problem right now is the
fact that he is the Ringleader at his Preschool.  His Teachers keep going on
about how Creative he is, after they explain how he moved the paint set to
the nice large white wall and showed the other kids how to paint it.  I am
sure this not the last time I will be taking to a teacher.

Stephen Bergdahl - Lord Vich

"I don't suffer from insanity!  I fact I rather enjoy it!"


----- Original Message -----
From: "Kitty Felton" <basyefelton@floodcity.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2004 5:16 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Teaching others how to sew


> Well, I'm not putting anyone in particular, or any age group in
> particular down.  I'm merely noting that of my three daughters and
> friends, I know a bunch who will sit and watch TV or play video games
> til early in the morning but won't go to school or work.
>
> My son in law plays video games while feeding his toddlers with cheeetos
> and Mountain Dew while my daugter works.  He's in jail right now, so I'm
> watching the little ones.   the 9 month old was raised to sit in his Car
> seat and watch tv so his daddy can play.  he hadn't had solid foods til
> just two weeks ago when  he came here to live.  he was still choking on
> crackers.
>
> of my daughters, DD#1 will sew if she wants something special, DD#3 sews
> hippy clothes and makes macrame, and DD#2 won't do anything which
> requires her to get off the couch.  I have to give it to Her though, she
> actually will go to work, as opposed to her husband.   Somehow I failed
> to share any of my interests or passions to any of my kids.   I'm trying
> harder with the grandkids, but they're a little small yet.  LOL
>
> Anyway, anything I might say about young people is filtered through the
> eyes of one who sees to much of what I wish I didn't have to see.   I
> don't know any young people who are interested seeing, hearing, or doing
> anything much other than watching TV or hanging out with friends.  it's
> depressing.
> Kitty
>
> Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:
> >
> > > I hope this doesn't translate into to many kids not wanting to go to
> > > college, to few engineers, to few doctors, to few who will stick to
> > > anything long enough to learn a valuable skill, but I think it might
> > > actually come to that.
> >
> > Even today, even in your generation, there are tons of people who do
nothing
> > but drink beer and watch tv! I don't think our generation is any worse
than
> > any that came before.
> >
> > My problem is that I tend to forget how little other people know and do.
I
> > hang out with people who are either reenactors or university students,
> > usually, so when I go out "in the real world", that can be a harsh
reality
> > check, I lose track of how uniniterested with *anything* some people can
be.
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>
To: Audrey Bergeron-Morin <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 3, Issue 406
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Also, www.exoticsilks.com, their wholesale branch.  They have the same
selection as thai silks.  You have to buy by the roll 15-17 yards, but
the discounts are really good.  You must be a business to order but
setting up as a business is really easy.  You can also set up as a
business on thai silks to get a 20% discount.

Katy

On Thu, 3 Jun 2004, Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:

>There's also www.thaisilks.com . Comparable to Dharma both in prices and
>quality, and service is good.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Panther Grrl" <panthergirl@lycos.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2004 5:08 PM
>Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 3, Issue 406
>
>
>> Off lurking to answer the below....
>> http://www.dharmatrading.com/silk_fabrics.html
>> This is the best source I have found. You should order all the silk
>swatches, to pick & choose. Everything is for silk painting, so its usually
>white(they have a small selection of black)
>>
>> They carry silk twill. They also carry superlative silk dyes. They are
>fast, and they have a catalogue.
>> I use them, I like them. Unfortunately, to get the really good prices, you
>need to buy the bolt...
>>
>> If you have friends, a  50yd bolt of raw silk can be
>> had for less than $4 a yard.  Charmeuse by the bolt is
>> $5.87 for 19.5mm(pronounced mummy, and is weight, this is getting into
>bridal weight) for a 50yard bolt at
>> 45 inches wide.
>>
>> No other place that I have found beats the price for
>> the quality of what you get. Everything is listed by
>> fabric content & mm. Swatches will help you decide which weight is best
>for you.
>>
>> >Does anyone have a source for a
>> >nice silk twill/sarsenet? The ones I have seen are >all a bit flimsy. Or
>would that not be appropriate >for daywear? Would dupioni be an acceptable
>>substitute, or is that too stiff/too slubby?
>>
>>
>>
>> ____________________________________________________________
>> Find what you are looking for with the Lycos Yellow Pages
>>
>http://r.lycos.com/r/yp_emailfooter/http://yellowpages.lycos.com/default.asp?SRC=lycos10
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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>

Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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From: Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>
To: Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ribbon embroidery
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That dress is from the V&A, just a small b&w photo in the book.  Here is
the description from _400 Years of Fashion_:

Gown and Petticoat, pale blue silk (French about 1755), brocaded with a
floral design in maroon adorned with green foliage springing from linked
silver tendrils with silver flowers. English 1755-60

A sack adjustable with a laced linen lining, skirt and petticoat cut to
accomodate a wide, slightly flaring hoop.  The trimming is exceptionally
rich and elaborate.  The double frilled cuffs, robings, front facings of
the skirt and petticoat are trimmed in silver lace, and to this are
applied artificial flowers of ruched ribbon with bead centres, stiffened
silk tassels and feathers in colours which harmonize with those of the
silk.

On Thu, 3 Jun 2004, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

>Found this picture of a dress. Is this ribbon embroidered flowers on the
>decoration?
>http://images.vam.ac.uk/images/photo/sch/20030207/high/1094-002.jpg
>Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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Thanks.  I had fun reading this and the Word Detective link.
Julie


>> ***As someone with a widow's peak hairline, I am curious as to the origin
>of
>> this term.  Was this hood only worn by widows?  How did it get its name?
>[Sg]  Not that this would qualify as real research (hence the quotation
>marks in my original post), but : http://ask.yahoo.com/ask/20021227.html
>

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   h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Seeking info on Breton Stitch
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Hi everyone. I have a friend who happened upon something called
"Brittain" or "Breton" stitch (I found it under the latter via Google).
It is related to Herringbone, according to the author my friend read, but
the author didn't say anything more about it other than it was "obscure"
and "ancient," which as we all know is about as useful as saying a duck
has feathers. While I found a how-to diagram of the stitch, we are
curious as to how old a stich it is. Her persona is 15th century Breton,
and she'ld like to know if she can get away with using it.

Here are the two websites I found under "Breton stitch":

http:www.crosscountryshopping.com/special%20stitches/brenton.htm  This
one shows the stitch.

http:www.hiraeth.com/ytg/books/riches.htm

Thank you for any help you might be able to give.

Arlys
An Tir



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Subject: [h-cost] opinions on PACC????
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PACC for those who don't know, is the Professional Association of Custom Clothiers.  I've been a member for the last year and will be scraping up the money to join again.  Over $100.00 membership (price jump this year) but I do find the email list to be full of some very helpful women who sew professionally who are full of tips and resource leads.

I've been working on digitizing historic embroidery patterns for resale for quite some time and have found this group to be the best place to talk about the business aspect of costume. 

Claire Shaeffer is on the list (author of Couture Sewing Techniques and many more wonderful books) and answers many construction questions, as well as a number of other very experienced women working in couture.  

I haven't had time to attend meetings yet, but hope to in the future.  You can join as an intern and work into a full membership which does require references.  

Lisa Sinervo
www.thrednedlestrete.com
www.ElizabethanEmbroidery.com


 
             
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Teaching others how to sew
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2004 00:52:18 -0500
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Personally I would not go blaming the TV. The TV is a tool, a fixture that
can be used and/or abused.

Also, I do not think it was the TV that inspired the wall painting. My
brother and I colored one whole wall without any inspiration from the TV.
Not to mention the mud hand prints on the side of the neighbors house. Ooo
and then we discovered magic markers.
You can color and paint anything if you put your mind to it. :)


-----Original Message-----
Sorry but I have to get this off my chest.  THIS IS WHY MY SON DOES NOT
WATCH TV!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I know what TV did to me from watching too much, and I am not putting my son
though the sort of pain I went through to get a life.  Pull the plug, and
they will find something else too do.  My biggest problem right now is the
fact that he is the Ringleader at his Preschool.  His Teachers keep going on
about how Creative he is, after they explain how he moved the paint set to
the nice large white wall and showed the other kids how to paint it.  I am
sure this not the last time I will be taking to a teacher.

Stephen Bergdahl - Lord Vich

"I don't suffer from insanity!  I fact I rather enjoy it!"



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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Teaching others how to sew
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My personal experience with TV and kids is that it makes them whiny,
unimaginative, over stimulated and over dependent on others to entertain
them.   I personally think no kid under the age of 8 should watch much of
anything on TV,  it seems to slow them developmentally, and I include
barney and Sesame street in that catagory.   I let my own kids watch them,
but seeing how much better my grandkids behave when I don't let them turn
it on, I repent with tears.  LOL

Kitty


> Personally I would not go blaming the TV. The TV is a tool, a fixture
> that can be used and/or abused.
>
> Also, I do not think it was the TV that inspired the wall painting. My
> brother and I colored one whole wall without any inspiration from the
> TV. Not to mention the mud hand prints on the side of the neighbors
> house. Ooo and then we discovered magic markers.
> You can color and paint anything if you put your mind to it. :)
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Sorry but I have to get this off my chest.  THIS IS WHY MY SON DOES NOT
> WATCH TV!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> I know what TV did to me from watching too much, and I am not putting my
> son though the sort of pain I went through to get a life.  Pull the
> plug, and they will find something else too do.  My biggest problem



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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jun  6 08:41:56 2004
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] danish court dress in progress. 
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Hello,
I uploaded for you the mounting of the outer layer to the boned foundation
of the danish court dress. Here you can se the colour of taffeta i found for
the dress.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/estrup2.htm
This is a very tiresome and hard process to cover the boned foundation to
the outer cover. It is so hard for the finger muschles and it is very
difficult to  sit with the heavy foundations all the time.

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jun  6 09:38:19 2004
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] perfumed spice
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Hi,
Just wondered if any can help me with this mystery.
An old lady gave to me a little gift. It was a small bag with a very smelly
perfumed spice. She told me she had it from Italy where it only grows in
this particular part of Italy.
Unfortunately i forgot what the name of it was, but i remember it was a word
i never heard before.
It is a very intense cent and i have put it into my costume closet, like you
would do with lavender.
Does any of you know the name of this spice? smell is like perfume.

Bjarne







Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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From: "J.A.Urbik" <jaurbik@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] danish court dress in progress.
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That is a GORGEOUS corset, like all your work. Is this for you to wear? 
Or do you make your creations for others?

Jordana


Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> Hello,
> I uploaded for you the mounting of the outer layer to the boned foundation
> of the danish court dress. Here you can se the colour of taffeta i found for
> the dress.
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/estrup2.htm
> This is a very tiresome and hard process to cover the boned foundation to
> the outer cover. It is so hard for the finger muschles and it is very
> difficult to  sit with the heavy foundations all the time.
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] danish courtdress
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That is a GORGEOUS corset, like all your work. Is this for you to wear?
Or do you make your creations for others?

Jordana
Hi Jordana.
No i am not a cross dresser, i am a man. ;-.) I make the dress for a danish
castle. They have a portrait of a lady, where i am trying to recreate the
dress from the portrait.
The castle is called Gammel Estrup (Old Estrup) and you can se it here:
http://www.gammelestrup.dk/
On the 26th and 27th this month there will be a 1700 market there with a lot
of craftsmen showing their trades.
I will be fully dressed in 18th century attire and i shall demonstrate
embroidery.

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jun  6 09:55:18 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] perfumed spice
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2004 08:56:39 -0500
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Could it possibly be frangipani?  That has a very intense scent.

Susan

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2004 8:35 AM
Subject: [h-cost] perfumed spice


> Hi,
> Just wondered if any can help me with this mystery.
> An old lady gave to me a little gift. It was a small bag with a very
smelly
> perfumed spice. She told me she had it from Italy where it only grows in
> this particular part of Italy.
> Unfortunately i forgot what the name of it was, but i remember it was a
word
> i never heard before.
> It is a very intense cent and i have put it into my costume closet, like
you
> would do with lavender.
> Does any of you know the name of this spice? smell is like perfume.
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jun  6 10:04:44 2004
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] perfumed spice
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Hi,
Yes this is very possible, i think i recognise that word.
It is a very intense smell.
Thanks a lot

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lee & Susan" <lecachot@airmail.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2004 3:56 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] perfumed spice


> Could it possibly be frangipani?  That has a very intense scent.
>
> Susan
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2004 8:35 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] perfumed spice
>
>
> > Hi,
> > Just wondered if any can help me with this mystery.
> > An old lady gave to me a little gift. It was a small bag with a very
> smelly
> > perfumed spice. She told me she had it from Italy where it only grows in
> > this particular part of Italy.
> > Unfortunately i forgot what the name of it was, but i remember it was a
> word
> > i never heard before.
> > It is a very intense cent and i have put it into my costume closet, like
> you
> > would do with lavender.
> > Does any of you know the name of this spice? smell is like perfume.
> >
> > Bjarne
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Leif og Bjarne Drews
> > www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> >
> > http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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From: "J.A.Urbik" <jaurbik@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] danish courtdress
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Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Hi Jordana.
> No i am not a cross dresser, i am a man. ;-.) I make the dress for a danish
> castle. They have a portrait of a lady, where i am trying to recreate the
> dress from the portrait.
> The castle is called Gammel Estrup (Old Estrup) and you can se it here:
> http://www.gammelestrup.dk/
> On the 26th and 27th this month there will be a 1700 market there with a lot
> of craftsmen showing their trades.
> I will be fully dressed in 18th century attire and i shall demonstrate
> embroidery.
> 
> Bjarne
Jordana Writes:
	Ah, I have been wondering if i misrememberd what i had read previously, 
or irf you did cross-dress (i gues i do somethines myself with pants and 
such like) or if i was just totally confused!

Jordana


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jun  6 13:33:24 2004
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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <4.3.2.7.2.20040602014404.00b28950@pop.fuse.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1910 fans
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2004 11:43:51 -0400
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what time of year? and occasion?  Sunner fans that I have seen tend to be
palm woven shapes. also popular were medium size fans with chinaese/japanese
motiffs,or plain paper with wood 'spokes', or sandalwood. Fans for the
ballroom often were if ivory and delicate lace.  Some were small enough to
fit in an evening purse.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "J.E. Marshall" <jemarshall@fuse.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2004 1:46 AM
Subject: [h-cost] 1910 fans


> I have been asked what type of fan that a young woman would have used in
> 1910.  Does anyone know of pictures that would illustrate them?
Preferably
> online so that I can email the address to my friend?
>
> Thanks,
> Jennifer
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] rolled seam
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Hi,
considered how to make the sleaves of my court dress. I have handstitched
the entire bodice and i make the undersleave in taffeta, and then i will
cover it with the puffed white satin sleave and the pleated ruffles. I use
silk organza for the ruffled sleaves and i want to handstitch the hems by
rolling the seam. I have done this before, but as the organza is sheer,
often i have noticed the thread to be quite visible. Do you think i could
avoid this by using my thin bobbin lace thread. I have as thin as number 300
cotton thread to this.
Boy, it is a hard work to make such  a court bodice, i dont wonder why it
was the fashion for high cirkles because it is requiring all your skills and
time. I spended more than 12 hours each day saturday and sunday, and  i only
made the bodice without the sleaves.
Do you know Mauritia from Germany? She is a most skilled and clever costume
maker. I think she is the only one i know who tryed to make the court style.
You can se here work here:
http://www.mauritia.de/en/rococo/rococo_costumes.html
She also made the jacket from Revolution in Fashion, wich i am to make next.
Her court dress is so beautifull, but i think she cheated a little, because
she did not make the boned tabs in the front of the bodice, but perhaps it
was not used in the french fashion.
I have gone the hole monty, and it sure is hard to do.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jun  6 15:56:25 2004
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Date: Sun, 06 Jun 2004 15:50:10 -0400
From: Kitty Felton <basyefelton@floodcity.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] rolled seam
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Hi Bjarne,
I would say that the finer the thread the more it will dissappear, and
for a rolled hem with no stress on it, I would try a sample with the
finest thread.  
	WHERE did you find such a fine thread?  I had heard it was unobtainable
in the last hundred years!   thanks,  Kitty

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> considered how to make the sleaves of my court dress. I have handstitched
> the entire bodice and i make the undersleave in taffeta, and then i will
> cover it with the puffed white satin sleave and the pleated ruffles. I use
> silk organza for the ruffled sleaves and i want to handstitch the hems by
> rolling the seam. I have done this before, but as the organza is sheer,
> often i have noticed the thread to be quite visible. Do you think i could
> avoid this by using my thin bobbin lace thread. I have as thin as number 300
> cotton thread to this.
> Boy, it is a hard work to make such  a court bodice, i dont wonder why it
> was the fashion for high cirkles because it is requiring all your skills and
> time. I spended more than 12 hours each day saturday and sunday, and  i only
> made the bodice without the sleaves.
> Do you know Mauritia from Germany? She is a most skilled and clever costume
> maker. I think she is the only one i know who tryed to make the court style.
> You can se here work here:
> http://www.mauritia.de/en/rococo/rococo_costumes.html
> She also made the jacket from Revolution in Fashion, wich i am to make next.
> Her court dress is so beautifull, but i think she cheated a little, because
> she did not make the boned tabs in the front of the bodice, but perhaps it
> was not used in the french fashion.
> I have gone the hole monty, and it sure is hard to do.
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jun  6 16:01:20 2004
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] rolled seam
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Hi Kitty,
Lacemakers uses it and they use it for the fine point ground laces with
tulle ground.
Try Lacis.com i think they have it. It is called Egyptian cotton.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kitty Felton" <basyefelton@floodcity.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2004 9:50 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] rolled seam


> Hi Bjarne,
> I would say that the finer the thread the more it will dissappear, and
> for a rolled hem with no stress on it, I would try a sample with the
> finest thread.
> WHERE did you find such a fine thread?  I had heard it was unobtainable
> in the last hundred years!   thanks,  Kitty
>
> Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> >
> > Hi,
> > considered how to make the sleaves of my court dress. I have
handstitched
> > the entire bodice and i make the undersleave in taffeta, and then i will
> > cover it with the puffed white satin sleave and the pleated ruffles. I
use
> > silk organza for the ruffled sleaves and i want to handstitch the hems
by
> > rolling the seam. I have done this before, but as the organza is sheer,
> > often i have noticed the thread to be quite visible. Do you think i
could
> > avoid this by using my thin bobbin lace thread. I have as thin as number
300
> > cotton thread to this.
> > Boy, it is a hard work to make such  a court bodice, i dont wonder why
it
> > was the fashion for high cirkles because it is requiring all your skills
and
> > time. I spended more than 12 hours each day saturday and sunday, and  i
only
> > made the bodice without the sleaves.
> > Do you know Mauritia from Germany? She is a most skilled and clever
costume
> > maker. I think she is the only one i know who tryed to make the court
style.
> > You can se here work here:
> > http://www.mauritia.de/en/rococo/rococo_costumes.html
> > She also made the jacket from Revolution in Fashion, wich i am to make
next.
> > Her court dress is so beautifull, but i think she cheated a little,
because
> > she did not make the boned tabs in the front of the bodice, but perhaps
it
> > was not used in the french fashion.
> > I have gone the hole monty, and it sure is hard to do.
> >
> > Bjarne
> >
> > Leif og Bjarne Drews
> > www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> >
> > http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jun  6 16:38:12 2004
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From: Janet Renzetti <celtic_dragonrider@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] danish court dress in progress. 
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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WOW...Very nice and obviously a  lot of work.  I am very impressed.
 
Janet

Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
Hello,
I uploaded for you the mounting of the outer layer to the boned foundation
of the danish court dress. Here you can se the colour of taffeta i found for
the dress.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/estrup2.htm
This is a very tiresome and hard process to cover the boned foundation to
the outer cover. It is so hard for the finger muschles and it is very
difficult to sit with the heavy foundations all the time.

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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On Sunday 06 June 2004 02:05 am, basyefelton@floodcity.net wrote:
> My personal experience with TV and kids is that it makes them whiny,
> unimaginative, over stimulated and over dependent on others to entertain
> them.   I personally think no kid under the age of 8 should watch much of
> anything on TV,  it seems to slow them developmentally, and I include
> barney and Sesame street in that catagory. 


Just to play devil's advocate for a bit....

When I was growing up (in the early 1960s, before Sesame Street even came 
out), the TV in our house was on practically every hour somebody was up, and 
my parents never made any attempt to restrict my viewing.  At all.  Yet I 
began reading at 2 1/2 (and am an avid reader to this day, though while I was 
growing up I did a lot of my reading while listening to the TV with one ear.)

Now, I only use my TV for watching movie videos, and I've never had cable 
service.  


  I let my own kids watch them,
> but seeing how much better my grandkids behave when I don't let them turn
> it on, I repent with tears.  LOL

I was an unusually well-behaved child, too.  Go figure.  :-)


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A man cannot be too careful in the choice of his enemies." 
-Oscar Wilde
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Thanks for the URLs to your court dress and Mauritia's site!  The work shown 
on both is really an inspiration.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A man cannot be too careful in the choice of his enemies." 
-Oscar Wilde
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Subject: [h-cost] OT: Kids and TV
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> My personal experience with TV and kids is that it makes them whiny,
> unimaginative, over stimulated and over dependent on others
> to entertain
> them.   I personally think no kid under the age of 8 should
> watch much of
> anything on TV,  it seems to slow them developmentally, and I include
> barney and Sesame street in that catagory.   I let my own
> kids watch them,
> but seeing how much better my grandkids behave when I don't
> let them turn
> it on, I repent with tears.  LOL
>
> Kitty
>

I could argue successfully that the TV can do the same to adults, in spades!

Allison T. (recreation tv viewer, but I don't LIVE in front of the box!)

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jun  6 17:49:37 2004
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] copyright of pictures
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I know this topic has ben disgussed again and again.
Yeat i have a little input in this.
When i was going to make the court dress for the museum, i did not realise
that copyrights was that difficult. The museum told me they borrowed the
portrait from the danish National Museum of Frederiksborg wich has nearly
all portraits in Denmark. When i told the museum that the making of the
dress demanded that i had to put it in progress of my website, they told me
that it might be difficult because of the copyrights.
Then again, i have seen on other costume websites numerous portraits. I dont
believe they (who posted pictures from books) has any rights to do
so.Anyway, they posted the pictures.
Katia Johansen wich is a curator from a danish museum called Rosenborg, is
travelling round all the country in Denmark and lecturing the styles of the
danish queens.
She uses pictures from the museums.
Now can any tell me what makes the difference in her doing this in public
and me doing it in public on the net?
Why has she more rights to do so, than me. We are both danish citisens, and
we both have this great herritage of Denmark.

Bjarme who cant understand things :-(





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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Subject: [h-cost] Medieval Underwear article question
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Within the last month, I was reading an article regarding medieval 
underwear, and showing pictures that showed, among other things, a variety 
of colors.  Unfortunately, I have since lost that part of my mind.  Can 
anyone happen to tell me WHERE I was reading this?

Marc the somewhat befuddled...

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My two cents in this is:
When i was a child, my parents let me watch all i wanted in television.
This was good and bad.
I could not take the horror movies,
But i enjoyed the childrens programs.
Especially i watched Swedish children programmes, and it taught me the
language of swedish.
So i am glad my parents let me watch television.

Bjarne







Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> Now can any tell me what makes the difference in her doing this in public
> and me doing it in public on the net?

You might want to check with a lawyer for the arts.  However, for 
England and the USA, there was a decision a couple of years ago that a 
photograph of a *flat* work of art (painting, presumably tapestry, 
manuscript) was not copyrightable, because no new "art" was involved in 
its creation.  Skill of the photographer, yes.  Money, etc, yes.  But 
not copyright as such.  This applies to works old enough to be out of 
copyright already.

Here are some descriptions of that case:

http://www.panix.com/~squigle/rarin/corel2.html
http://www.funnystrange.com/copyright/bridgeman.htm

And this is about "derivative works" which your reconstruction of the 
dress could be considered.  http://www.artslaw.org/DERIV.HTM


-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

I have a simple-sounding solution for much political ill: fire the 
speechwriters; make the candidates & office holders write their own 
material.

This would remove the blandness, the spin-doctoring, and the nicey-nicey 
masks that folks wear when delivering someone else's work. Then we'll 
*really* know who we're voting for.  -- cv
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Actually, the Bridgeman case was only one lawsuit, decided by one 
district judge in New York.  It does not change US copyright law. It 
does not by any means guarantee that another US lawsuit on the same 
issue would have the same outcome.  It is quite common for different 
lawsuits on similar issues to have different outcomes.  And a US suit 
has no application to any non-US copyrights, English, Danish, or other.

I would advise Bjarne to look for the Danish copyright office's website, 
or if they don't have one to contact them and ask for information. 

Fran

Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>
>> Now can any tell me what makes the difference in her doing this in 
>> public
>> and me doing it in public on the net?
>
>
> You might want to check with a lawyer for the arts.  However, for 
> England and the USA, there was a decision a couple of years ago that a 
> photograph of a *flat* work of art (painting, presumably tapestry, 
> manuscript) was not copyrightable, because no new "art" was involved 
> in its creation.  Skill of the photographer, yes.  Money, etc, yes.  
> But not copyright as such.  This applies to works old enough to be out 
> of copyright already.
>
> Here are some descriptions of that case:
>
> http://www.panix.com/~squigle/rarin/corel2.html
> http://www.funnystrange.com/copyright/bridgeman.htm
>
> And this is about "derivative works" which your reconstruction of the 
> dress could be considered.  http://www.artslaw.org/DERIV.HTM
>
>
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In a message dated 6/6/2004 5:49:33 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:
Katia Johansen wich is a curator from a danish museum called Rosenborg, is
travelling round all the country in Denmark and lecturing the styles of the
danish queens.
She uses pictures from the museums.
Now can any tell me what makes the difference in her doing this in public
and me doing it in public on the net?
She might have official permission, or she might not. And lecturing is 
regarded as different from publishing. Here in the US I might request a "one-time" 
use for non-profit lecture, which might be granted but would cost a lot less 
than if I was going to publish a book. The Internet is still fairly new and some 
people might interpret that the same way as publishing a book, while others 
might not.

Then again, I have seen sites where I'm fairly certain the creators have used 
images without permission. Then, it all depends on if they get caught, and 
how badly the copyright holder wants to go after them if they do become aware of 
it.

Sometimes, it depends on who and how you ask. Other times, you don't have 
much choice. For example, when I needed an image from the New York Times for an 
exhibit at our historic house museum, which has a miniscule budget, I was 
charged the standard $190 (if memory serves correctly) "non-profit" rights fee, 
which would be the same charged to, say, Mount Vernon.  Never mind that my entire 
exhibit budget was about $600.  But I really needed that image, so I paid the 
money.

Your project is so worthwhile, though, Bjarne, that I would be surprised if a 
written request, properly explained and properly requested, in writing, would 
be turned down. If the museum in question charges a standard fee (like the 
NYTimes, above), could the museum for whom you are making the repro either help 
out, or request on your behalf?

Ann Wass
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CA #13, maybe? <evil grin>
--sue, who wonders why no one's ever done a CA on shoes.....

Marc Carlson wrote:
> Within the last month, I was reading an article regarding medieval 
> underwear, and showing pictures that showed, among other things, a 
> variety of colors.  Unfortunately, I have since lost that part of my 
> mind.  Can anyone happen to tell me WHERE I was reading this?
> 
> Marc the somewhat befuddled...

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] wool (washing)
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----- Original Message -----
From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 05, 2004 2:18 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wool (washing)


> Another thing is that sometimes, you just really don't want to try to
shrink
> a wool as far as it'll shrink, even if it's meant to be fulled. If you
> shrink it too far, you'll wind up with this tiny, spongy, overly dense
mess
> that's nearly impossible to sew, by hand or by machine. I stupidly did
that
> once with 5 yards of already fulled, already shrunken wool, and wound up
> with 3 yards of wool that was a quarter of an inch thick! It was so
pretty,
> and now it's good for nothing. I an get a needle through it, just barely,
> but anything made out of it looks like it's made out of cardboard, and the
> stitches are both too loose to hold well, and so tight that they sink 1/8"
> into it.
<snip> -E
Could you use it for millinery? if it really is as stiff as cardboard it
could be perfect for a stiff type of hat (I'm thinking of a 19th century
bonnet as that's what I've been looking at lately, but I expect whatever
time period you prefer has some sort of stiff felted wool hat) I just hate
the thought of wool going to waste like that.
Elizabeth
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
Elizabeth Beaumont              Elizabeth Walpole
Politarchopolis, Lochac     Canberra Australia
             ewalpole@austar.net.au

People are like stained glass windows. They sparkle and shine when the sun
is out, but when the darkness sets in ,their true beauty is revealed only if
there is light from within.
Elizabeth Kubler-Ross

The years that a woman subtracts from her age are not lost. They are added
to the ages of other women.
Diane de Poitiers (1499-1566) Attrib.

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----- Original Message -----
From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, June 04, 2004 8:16 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Teaching others how to sew


> > What is it with this generation and video
> > games?
>
> Erh, well, I guess I have to assume that I don't fit in with my generation
> then.
> Yeah, I think that's it.
> I'm a weirdo :-)

Hey me too! I (or at least my Dad) had a computer before I was born (in
1983) but I think everybody on this list is a bit of a weirdo, I mean
recreating costumes from hundreds of years ago is not exactly normal. You
know this hobby has started to affect your mind when (in a mundane location)
you see a crowd of people staring at something, when you go over to find out
what they're staring at you see somebody dressed in historical costume (A
lady from my SCA Barony wearing 16th century Venetian) and look straight
past them still searching for what everybody is looking at. Now don't tell
me that's 'normal'
Elizabeth
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
Elizabeth Beaumont              Elizabeth Walpole
Politarchopolis, Lochac     Canberra Australia
             ewalpole@austar.net.au

People are like stained glass windows. They sparkle and shine when the sun
is out, but when the darkness sets in ,their true beauty is revealed only if
there is light from within.
Elizabeth Kubler-Ross

The years that a woman subtracts from her age are not lost. They are added
to the ages of other women.
Diane de Poitiers (1499-1566) Attrib.

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Can anyone tell me what kind of purse or handbag a woman living in 1870 
would have carried when she went out shopping? I can find all kinds of 
pictures of ladies dressed up in their finest and posed for a 
photograph, but I'm striking out when it comes to where they put their 
money when they went to do the weekly shopping.



Dawn



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>From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
>CA #13, maybe? <evil grin>
>--sue, who wonders why no one's ever done a CA on shoes.....

I'm pretty sure I haven't read a CA in quite some time.  Also this had color 
photos.

I have no idea why no one's done one on shoes.  Maybe after I finish the 
book :)

Marc

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Hi Marc,

Both the Age of the Cotehardie (atoc) at yahoogroups dot com and the Armour 
archive list (www dot armourarchive dot org) have discussed this topic 
extensively in the last month with lots of info, links etc. The thread is 
called "Chausses and Braies". Maybe that's where you have read it?

Hope this helps,

Caithlinn

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I wasn't blaming TV for the wall painting.  My son has never watched TV.  He
tends to  be the leader because he has an imagination, that they other kids
don't seem to have.  He is always exploring everything, and the rare times
that they have had a TV on to show video's he has pretty much ignored it and
played with other things will the rest of the kids  sit and stare.

Stephen

----- Original Message -----
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 05, 2004 10:52 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Teaching others how to sew


> Personally I would not go blaming the TV. The TV is a tool, a fixture that
> can be used and/or abused.
>
> Also, I do not think it was the TV that inspired the wall painting. My
> brother and I colored one whole wall without any inspiration from the TV.
> Not to mention the mud hand prints on the side of the neighbors house. Ooo
> and then we discovered magic markers.
> You can color and paint anything if you put your mind to it. :)
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Sorry but I have to get this off my chest.  THIS IS WHY MY SON DOES NOT
> WATCH TV!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> I know what TV did to me from watching too much, and I am not putting my
son
> though the sort of pain I went through to get a life.  Pull the plug, and
> they will find something else too do.  My biggest problem right now is the
> fact that he is the Ringleader at his Preschool.  His Teachers keep going
on
> about how Creative he is, after they explain how he moved the paint set to
> the nice large white wall and showed the other kids how to paint it.  I am
> sure this not the last time I will be taking to a teacher.
>
> Stephen Bergdahl - Lord Vich
>
> "I don't suffer from insanity!  I fact I rather enjoy it!"
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Date: Sun, 06 Jun 2004 21:32:38 -0400
From: Kitty Felton <basyefelton@floodcity.net>
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Oh Horror shows, I had nightmares while I was awake with them, and while
I was asleep, I would wake up in total panic.   I have way to much
imagination for those things.  I don't need to watch it, reading the
news gives me the hebijebies sometimes.   

the only children's shows I got to watch were Captain Kangaroo, and
Sharie Lewis and lamb Chop (a puppet show) so I am dating myself for
sure.   No new languages for me.   I wish.   spanish would be my choice
if I could learn one.  or hebrew, or scottish   LOL   

I grew up on westerns.   I filled my head with stories from the time I
could read.  it was escape for me.   I wasted more than half my life
with stories, the only ones I didn't watch were soaps.   
well, I better get down from my soap box now, the air is getting thin. 
LOL  Cya, kitty

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> 
> My two cents in this is:
> When i was a child, my parents let me watch all i wanted in television.
> This was good and bad.
> I could not take the horror movies,
> But i enjoyed the childrens programs.
> Especially i watched Swedish children programmes, and it taught me the
> language of swedish.
> So i am glad my parents let me watch television.
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jun  6 21:37:38 2004
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Date: Sun, 06 Jun 2004 21:32:41 -0400
From: Kitty Felton <basyefelton@floodcity.net>
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all I can guess is that being a curator gives her more status, but I
would ask her.  Write her and tell her what you want to do and ask her
how she got permission to do what she did and how you could get similar
permissions to do the same on the internet. Emphasize that it is for
education's sake.   It might be that you would be required to invest in
software to prevent anyone from being able to lift the photos, but it
might not.  all you can do is ask, ask and keep asking.  the Bible says
that the wicked judge did the right thing for the poor widow when he
thought to himself "I'd better do it or she will wear me out with her
begging."  when it is a just cause, just keep begging.   
LOL  Kitty


Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> 
> I know this topic has ben disgussed again and again.
> Yeat i have a little input in this.
> When i was going to make the court dress for the museum, i did not realise
> that copyrights was that difficult. The museum told me they borrowed the
> portrait from the danish National Museum of Frederiksborg wich has nearly
> all portraits in Denmark. When i told the museum that the making of the
> dress demanded that i had to put it in progress of my website, they told me
> that it might be difficult because of the copyrights.
> Then again, i have seen on other costume websites numerous portraits. I dont
> believe they (who posted pictures from books) has any rights to do
> so.Anyway, they posted the pictures.
> Katia Johansen wich is a curator from a danish museum called Rosenborg, is
> travelling round all the country in Denmark and lecturing the styles of the
> danish queens.
> She uses pictures from the museums.
> Now can any tell me what makes the difference in her doing this in public
> and me doing it in public on the net?
> Why has she more rights to do so, than me. We are both danish citisens, and
> we both have this great herritage of Denmark.
> 
> Bjarme who cant understand things :-(
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Well, I guess what I am saying is that when I have the two older ones
and I restrict them from TV they don't fight so much, they play together
better, and whine less at me.   I do have them underfoot more, and I
have to ask them to go play more so they don't trip me.  I have to help
them think of how to fill their time for the first two or three days of
no TV, then they start playing more, and whining less.   They seem to
enjoy each other more and the older one has more patience with her
little sister, the younger one complains less.   I feel that when I am
very selective about what they watch and even limit acceptable viewing
to very rarely, that the kids seem more like kids and not like zombies. 
I'm not criticizing anyone who was raised with TV, I am just saying that
I see improvement in the behavior and relationships of the kids when I
limit them from the TV.  I feel that that might be translatable to other
kids, too, but Of course it also depends on the kids and the atmosphere
in the home, etc.   
	Kitty

Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
> 
> On Sunday 06 June 2004 02:05 am, basyefelton@floodcity.net wrote:
> > My personal experience with TV and kids is that it makes them whiny,
> > unimaginative, over stimulated and over dependent on others to entertain
> > them.   I personally think no kid under the age of 8 should watch much of
> > anything on TV,  it seems to slow them developmentally, and I include
> > barney and Sesame street in that catagory.
> 
> Just to play devil's advocate for a bit....
> 
> When I was growing up (in the early 1960s, before Sesame Street even came
> out), the TV in our house was on practically every hour somebody was up, and
> my parents never made any attempt to restrict my viewing.  At all.  Yet I
> began reading at 2 1/2 (and am an avid reader to this day, though while I was
> growing up I did a lot of my reading while listening to the TV with one ear.)
> 
> Now, I only use my TV for watching movie videos, and I've never had cable
> service.
> 
>   I let my own kids watch them,
> > but seeing how much better my grandkids behave when I don't let them turn
> > it on, I repent with tears.  LOL
> 
> I was an unusually well-behaved child, too.  Go figure.  :-)
> 
> --
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
> 
> "A man cannot be too careful in the choice of his enemies."
> -Oscar Wilde
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Oh yes, I agree wholeheartedly.   I had to face that fact in myself
years ago.   Sometimes I would cheerfully give the tv away, but it can
be helpful at times.   Anyway, my husband would waste away to nothing if
he didn't have a TV.   he is rabid about it.  I just try to find
something to do in another room most of the time, I get so tired of all
the noise and shouting.  (he likes confrontational tv)   I think that
sort of TV is particularly detrimental to relationships.   Ivery rarely
even watch movies anymore, they get so boring.  I want to be doing
something, not sitting around waiting to die.   

Kitty

A.Thurman wrote:

> I could argue successfully that the TV can do the same to adults, in spades!
> 
> Allison T. (recreation tv viewer, but I don't LIVE in front of the box!)

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Subject: [h-cost] RE: medieval underwear, coloured
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Hi Marc:
There was a discussion on the Authentic_SCA list a while back on braies and
hose, which led into coloured underwear. Perhaps one of those messages has
the information you are looking for? The discussion starts around message
no. 44830 or so. Message 44838 has a long list of links to pics.
HTH
Rebecca


Re. Message: 9
From: "Marc Carlson" <marccarlson20@hotmail.com>
Subject: [h-cost] Medieval Underwear article question

Within the last month, I was reading an article regarding medieval 
underwear, and showing pictures that showed, among other things, a variety 
of colors.  Unfortunately, I have since lost that part of my mind.  Can 
anyone happen to tell me WHERE I was reading this?

Marc the somewhat befuddled...

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Teaching others how to sew
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2004 23:06:16 -0400
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On Sunday 06 June 2004 09:32 pm, Kitty Felton wrote:

[snip]
>   I feel that when I am
> very selective about what they watch and even limit acceptable viewing
> to very rarely, that the kids seem more like kids and not like zombies.
> I'm not criticizing anyone who was raised with TV, I am just saying that
> I see improvement in the behavior and relationships of the kids when I
> limit them from the TV. 

You may well be right, Kitty.  My remarks weren't intended to criticize your 
decision to limit your children's viewing.  

I don't necessarily think I was a typical kid with regard to my reaction to 
television. My parents believed that I learned to read faster *because* I was 
exposed to so much television, but in retrospect I don't believe that, and I 
don't know of any proof either way on that issue.

I do know what you mean about kids who watch lots of TV staring at the screen 
like zombies, and it disturbs me.

I'm not sure what I'd do if I had children.  Probably monitor their behavior, 
and impose limits if they spent too much time watching TV to the exclusion of 
doing other healthy and useful things.

>I feel that that might be translatable to other
> kids, too, but Of course it also depends on the kids and the atmosphere
> in the home, etc.

Agreed.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A man cannot be too careful in the choice of his enemies." 
-Oscar Wilde
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kids and TV
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On Sunday 06 June 2004 09:32 pm, Kitty Felton wrote:
[snip]
>
> the only children's shows I got to watch were Captain Kangaroo, and
> Sharie Lewis and lamb Chop (a puppet show) so I am dating myself for
> sure.   

Then you're the same vintage as me.  I watched those shows, too.  :-)

And since my parents didn't limit my viewing, I also got to watch Pixanne, and 
Sally Starr, and Gilligan's Island, and bunches of other stuff.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A man cannot be too careful in the choice of his enemies." 
-Oscar Wilde
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From: "Lisa Sinervo" <Lisa-list@thrednedlestrete.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] copyright of pictures
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Bjarne, I don't know about copyright law in Denmark, but one avenue to pursue is to find an out of copyright photo (yes, usually black and white and grainy) from an old book.  While there is considerable debate as to whether or not a new photograph of a public domain painting is copyrightable (and no, not interested in that conversation again) there is no doubt that you are free to copy images from out of copyright books which is why I feel quite comfortable in putting the images from Elizabethan Pagentry online. 

Yes the originals are in museums, and the museums do sell licensing permissions for online publications but I used images from an old book out of copyright.  Not as nice as modern reproductions, but one could always add a link to a museum website if they have an online gallery.

An option for those of us who don't really want to pay fees for our hobby or deal with potential cease and desist letters.

Lisa Sinervo








---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Kitty Felton <basyefelton@floodcity.net>
Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date:  Sun, 06 Jun 2004 21:32:41 -0400

>all I can guess is that being a curator gives her more status, but I
>would ask her.  Write her and tell her what you want to do and ask her
>how she got permission to do what she did and how you could get similar
>permissions to do the same on the internet. Emphasize that it is for
>education's sake.   It might be that you would be required to invest in
>software to prevent anyone from being able to lift the photos, but it
>might not.  all you can do is ask, ask and keep asking.  the Bible says
>that the wicked judge did the right thing for the poor widow when he
>thought to himself "I'd better do it or she will wear me out with her
>begging."  when it is a just cause, just keep begging.   
>LOL  Kitty
>
>
>Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>> 
>> I know this topic has ben disgussed again and again.
>> Yeat i have a little input in this.
>> When i was going to make the court dress for the museum, i did not realise
>> that copyrights was that difficult. The museum told me they borrowed the
>> portrait from the danish National Museum of Frederiksborg wich has nearly
>> all portraits in Denmark. When i told the museum that the making of the
>> dress demanded that i had to put it in progress of my website, they told me
>> that it might be difficult because of the copyrights.
>> Then again, i have seen on other costume websites numerous portraits. I dont
>> believe they (who posted pictures from books) has any rights to do
>> so.Anyway, they posted the pictures.
>> Katia Johansen wich is a curator from a danish museum called Rosenborg, is
>> travelling round all the country in Denmark and lecturing the styles of the
>> danish queens.
>> She uses pictures from the museums.
>> Now can any tell me what makes the difference in her doing this in public
>> and me doing it in public on the net?
>> Why has she more rights to do so, than me. We are both danish citisens, and
>> we both have this great herritage of Denmark.
>> 
>> Bjarme who cant understand things :-(
>> 
>> Leif og Bjarne Drews
>> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>> 
>> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
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>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
>_______________________________________________
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Oh I remember Gilligan's Island.   did you know they're going to do a
reality show about it?  if I was more elegant I would apply to be Mrs.
Howell, but we don't have that rich moneyed air.  LOL  Kitty

Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
> 
> On Sunday 06 June 2004 09:32 pm, Kitty Felton wrote:
> [snip]
> >
> > the only children's shows I got to watch were Captain Kangaroo, and
> > Sharie Lewis and lamb Chop (a puppet show) so I am dating myself for
> > sure.
> 
> Then you're the same vintage as me.  I watched those shows, too.  :-)
> 
> And since my parents didn't limit my viewing, I also got to watch Pixanne, and
> Sally Starr, and Gilligan's Island, and bunches of other stuff.
> 
> --
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
> 
> "A man cannot be too careful in the choice of his enemies."
> -Oscar Wilde
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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The Greater Bay Area Costumers Guild put on an 18th century event on
Saturday, called Travellers in Tuscany (we were Americans visiting a winery
in Italy in the late 18th century).  We had a tour, wine tasting, and lunch
at a Sonoma (north of San Francisco) winery called Viansa Winery.

I thought listmembers might enjoy seeing photos from the event; there were
some fabulous gowns on display.  The photos are at:
http://demode.tweedlebop.com/tuscany/

You can see photos of my dress (1780s robe a l'anglaise) in these photos, as
well as on my completed dress diary page:
http://demode.tweedlebop.com/anglaise.html

- Kendra

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On Sunday 06 June 2004 11:05 pm, Kitty Felton wrote:
> Oh I remember Gilligan's Island.   did you know they're going to do a
> reality show about it? 

God, no!  Won't somebody stop them, before they film again? :-)  

> if I was more elegant I would apply to be Mrs.
> Howell, but we don't have that rich moneyed air.  LOL

Neither do I.  :-)

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A man cannot be too careful in the choice of his enemies." 
-Oscar Wilde
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: medieval underwear, coloured
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I to have questions reguarding colored underwear specifically in the fourteenth
century.  Of the sources I have found contradict the use of colored fabric for
use as braies.  One sources says that only whit or natural colored linnen was
used.  Others say the working class used colored fabric.  I have tried to document
this in pictures but they to vary.  Maybe one of you experts out there could
shed some light or color on this as it may be.

Armand De Force

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Subject: [h-cost] Request for assistance
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Hello, all -

I am currently the Corresponding Secretary for the International Costumers' 
Guild, and I have received a request for assistance.  I have included the 
request here, in hopes that someone may be able to help.  Please respond to 
her directly if you have any information for her.  Thanks in advance.

Sandy Pettinger
ICG Corresponding Secretary

Attached message:

>X-Sender: pamw17@hotmail.com
>From: "Pamela Weiner" <pamw17@hotmail.com>
>Subject: spanish renaissance
>Date: Thu, 03 Jun 2004 19:09:40 -0400
>
>Hi, my name is Pamela Weiner and I am a theatre student at the University 
>of Maryland. For a project I am doing, I have to do a whole lot of 
>research about costuming during the Spanish Renaissance, specifically used 
>in the case of Fuente Ovejuna (or around the year 1612). I was wondering 
>if you all might have some information you could give me, or at least some 
>good starting points to look at. Thanks so much,
>
>Pam Weiner

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
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Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Subject: [h-cost] medieval underwear (some coloured)
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Hi again:
For Marc: I checked the AOTC site and there is more there, starting from
message #3431, "Chauses and braies".
Also, this site: http://www.randyasplund.com/browse/medieval/chausse1.html
has one person's own research into basic braies, with a number of
illustrations. This site has a section on braies/breeches -
http://www.greydragon.org/library/underwear1.html. 
This one (http://www.bumply.com/Medieval/braies.htm) is for c.1265. 
HTH
Rebecca
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>From: "Cornelia Muncke" <caithlinn@hotmail.com>
>Both the Age of the Cotehardie (atoc) at yahoogroups dot com and the Armour
>archive list (www dot armourarchive dot org) have discussed this topic
>extensively in the last month with lots of info, links etc. The thread is
>called "Chausses and Braies". Maybe that's where you have read it?

>From: "Tonkin, Rebecca (PIRSA-SARDI)"
>	<tonkin.rebecca@saugov.sa.gov.au>
>There was a discussion on the Authentic_SCA list a while back on braies and
>hose, which led into coloured underwear. Perhaps one of those messages has
>the information you are looking for? The discussion starts around message
>no. 44830 or so. Message 44838 has a long list of links to pics.

As much as I hate to say it, it's entirely possible that it was in one of 
these threads.  Thank you - I'll go back and look.

(I'm being so focused on writing lately that I'm losing track of everything 
else)

Thank you all again.

Marc

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] danish courtdress
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2004 19:16:49 -0700
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Jordana,

I think you are thinking of Teddy, who use to be on the list.  Teddy cross
dress from time to time.  Does lovely work and looks very convincing in it.
The main reason that I have never attempted to cross dress, except that one
time I did play the bearded lady at a Halloween party.

Stephen

The Bible contains six admonishments to homosexuals and 362 admonishments to
heterosexuals. That doesn't mean that God doesn't love heterosexuals. It's
just that they need more supervision. ~ Lynn Lavner



----- Original Message -----

From: "J.A.Urbik" <jaurbik@optonline.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2004 8:25 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] danish courtdress


>
>
> Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>
> > Hi Jordana.
> > No i am not a cross dresser, i am a man. ;-.) I make the dress for a
danish
> > castle. They have a portrait of a lady, where i am trying to recreate
the
> > dress from the portrait.
> > The castle is called Gammel Estrup (Old Estrup) and you can se it here:
> > http://www.gammelestrup.dk/
> > On the 26th and 27th this month there will be a 1700 market there with a
lot
> > of craftsmen showing their trades.
> > I will be fully dressed in 18th century attire and i shall demonstrate
> > embroidery.
> >
> > Bjarne
> Jordana Writes:
> Ah, I have been wondering if i misrememberd what i had read previously,
> or irf you did cross-dress (i gues i do somethines myself with pants and
> such like) or if i was just totally confused!
>
> Jordana
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jun  7 03:38:13 2004
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] danish court dress in progress. 
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Bjarne,

As always it is looking lovely. I am not familiar with corset work as I 
would like to be. May I ask why there is cording on top of the tabs, as 
shown on the full sized photo? What is it used to help with?

Kimiko


At 02:40 PM 6/6/2004 +0200, you wrote:
>Hello,
>I uploaded for you the mounting of the outer layer to the boned foundation
>of the danish court dress. Here you can se the colour of taffeta i found for
>the dress.
>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/estrup2.htm
>This is a very tiresome and hard process to cover the boned foundation to
>the outer cover. It is so hard for the finger muschles and it is very
>difficult to  sit with the heavy foundations all the time.
>
>Bjarne

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jun  7 04:28:55 2004
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Subject: [h-cost] R.P.Ryan Robe a la francaise pattern
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Hi,
I am a bit frustrated.
I made this pattern and I mesured over my corset and made size 12.
If I look at the pattern mesurements I schould have used size 10.
So size 12 schould be to big but it is to small!!!!!!!!!
The fhirst ting I noticed that I don't have extra room in the back of 
the lining.
The waist was to high and the sleeves to schort.
But Yeasterday I made new pictures and it looks like the sleeves are at 
the wrong place on my schoulders.
Now I am not sure if I can finish this dress in time :-(

Has anyone else made this pattern and had the same problems?

http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Robealafrancaise/Robe.html

Greetings,
        Deredere



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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jun  7 04:37:45 2004
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] danish court dress in progress. 
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Dear Kimiko,
This is because both the wedding dress of Sophia Magdalena and the
coronation dress of Ulrika Eleonora has a silver cord there. These are court
dresses. The tabs are not cut with the bodice but seperately, and the seam
is covered with the cord. So i did the same to cover the seam.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kimiko Small" <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, June 07, 2004 9:35 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] danish court dress in progress.


> Bjarne,
>
> As always it is looking lovely. I am not familiar with corset work as I
> would like to be. May I ask why there is cording on top of the tabs, as
> shown on the full sized photo? What is it used to help with?
>
> Kimiko
>
>
> At 02:40 PM 6/6/2004 +0200, you wrote:
> >Hello,
> >I uploaded for you the mounting of the outer layer to the boned
foundation
> >of the danish court dress. Here you can se the colour of taffeta i found
for
> >the dress.
> >http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/estrup2.htm
> >This is a very tiresome and hard process to cover the boned foundation to
> >the outer cover. It is so hard for the finger muschles and it is very
> >difficult to  sit with the heavy foundations all the time.
> >
> >Bjarne
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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<G>  How about when you're in a mundane crowd and shout, "Huzzah!"?
Julie

>> > What is it with this generation and video
>> > games?
>>
>You know this hobby has started to affect your mind when (in a mundane
location) you see a crowd of people staring at something, when you go over
to find out what they're staring at >you see somebody dressed in historical
costume (A lady from my SCA Barony wearing 16th century Venetian) and look
straight past them still searching for what everybody is looking at. Now
don't tell me that's 'normal'
>Elizabeth
>

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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Catherine Olanich Raymond" <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2004 11:00 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kids and TV


> On Sunday 06 June 2004 09:32 pm, Kitty Felton wrote:
> [snip]
> >
> > the only children's shows I got to watch were Captain Kangaroo, and
> > Sharie Lewis and lamb Chop (a puppet show) so I am dating myself for
> > sure.
>
> Then you're the same vintage as me.  I watched those shows, too.  :-)

Lamb Chop annoyed me, but I loved Captain Kangaroo. Anyone else remember
Kimba The White Lion?

And I was sooo excited when my parents finally decided I was old enough to
stay up and watch the Carol Burnett show at ten o clock! Woo! (obligatory
costuming notice..LOVED her version of Scarlett O'Hara's green velvet
dress!)

Dianne
>
> And since my parents didn't limit my viewing, I also got to watch Pixanne,
and
> Sally Starr, and Gilligan's Island, and bunches of other stuff.
>
>
> -- 
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>
> "A man cannot be too careful in the choice of his enemies."
> -Oscar Wilde
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: Yehoshua ben Haim haLevi <zkessin@cs.brandeis.edu>
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Subject: [h-cost] Elizabethan Man's shoe
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OK so I decided its time for me to get a pair of good period shoes to go
with my doublets and such. Does anyone have pictures and sketches of
Elizabethan shoes? I am planning to take the pictures to a shoe maker
here in Jerusalem and see what he can come up with. We seem to have a
lot of Shoe makers here in Israel.

-- 
--Yehoshua ben Haim haLevi
Senischal incipient Shire of Beit Aryeh
MKA: Zachary Kessin Jerusalem Israel
zkessin@cs.brandeis.edu +972 50 780 9717 +1 646 201 9507

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Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2004 09:51:29 -0400
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kids and TV
From: ruthanne baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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For your information: from the American Association of University
Professors' listserv--


> Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 14:32:04 -0400
> To: Multiple recipients of list aaup-general <aaup-general@aaup.org>
> Subject: FW: Professor wanted for GILLIGAN'S ISLAND Reality Show
> 
> Please contact Craig Bland directly at 818-972-0997if you are
> interested.
> 
> 
> "GILLIGAN'S ISAND" - The Reality Series
> 
> AHOY PROFESSORS!
> Have you ever dreamed of being stranded on a deserted island with a
> movie star?  Can you make a telephone out of a coconut?  Does the idea
> of being on a cool new reality series excite you out of your proverbial
> lab coat? If so...then please read on!
> 
> TS and top reality producer Mike Fleiss (The Bachelor, The Bachelorette,
> High School Reunion) are bringing the classic sitcom "GILLIGAN'S ISLAND"
> back to life!  The reality adaptation will feature real life versions of
> the show's original characters; A real-life skipper, first mate,
> millionaire couple, Kansas farm girl, movie star and A PROFESSOR!
> Characters will work together to get off the island and a big reward
> will be up for grabs!
> 
> Next Entertainment is looking for enthusiastic male professors (full,
> associate, adjunct or assistant) aged 21 to 40 to be cast as THE
> PROFESSOR.    Any and all academic backgrounds considered.
> 
> For immediate consideration please contact Craig Bland at 818 -
> 972-0997.  Go to www.gilligancasting.com for details
> 

(Probably too late now to get in on it! --Ruth Anne Baumgartner, scholar
gypsy and amateur costumer)

on 6/6/04 11:29 PM, Catherine Olanich Raymond at cathy@thyrsus.com wrote:

> On Sunday 06 June 2004 11:05 pm, Kitty Felton wrote:
>> Oh I remember Gilligan's Island.   did you know they're going to do a
>> reality show about it?
> 
> God, no!  Won't somebody stop them, before they film again? :-)
> 
>> if I was more elegant I would apply to be Mrs.
>> Howell, but we don't have that rich moneyed air.  LOL
> 
> Neither do I.  :-)

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Subject: [h-cost] RE:medieval underwear, coloured
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>From: "paul Cooper"<deforce@pcez.com>
>I to have questions reguarding colored underwear specifically in the 
>fourteenth
>century.  Of the sources I have found contradict the use of colored fabric 
>for
>use as braies.  One sources says that only whit or natural colored linnen 
>was
>used.  Others say the working class used colored fabric.  I have tried to 
>document
>this in pictures but they to vary.  Maybe one of you experts out there 
>could
>shed some light or color on this as it may be.

This is one of -those- topics where if anyone tells you that "they" 
definitively did one thing or another, look very skeptical.  There are no 
known examples, few pictures – in fact, people don’t even call them by the 
same name (I refer to them as Breeches since the Middle English term for 
them is Breches; Braies seems to be the popular term for them today – don’t 
ask me where it derives from, I don’t know.  I think it’s French).  What 
little I do have on them is at 
http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/trousers/breechesindex.htm 
(although this morning it’s displaying oddly).  I’ll eventually get around 
to hooking it into my clothing pages when I’m happy with the pictures 
identification.

It is generally assumed that these were of unbleached linen.  Since these 
are among the garments that would usually see the most wear and washing – 
it’s also plausible that they might have used other (old, used) material as 
well.  This could lead to the existence of colored breeches in the pictures.

It is interesting to note that shoes and body garments like breeches and 
shirts are not mentioned in any of the estate inventories I’ve ever seen.

==============

>From: "Tonkin, Rebecca (PIRSA-SARDI)"
>	<tonkin.rebecca@saugov.sa.gov.au>
>For Marc: I checked the AOTC site and there is more there, starting from
>message #3431, "Chauses and braies".
>Also, this site: http://www.randyasplund.com/browse/medieval/chausse1.html
>has one person's own research into basic braies, with a number of
>illustrations. This site has a section on braies/breeches -
>http://www.greydragon.org/library/underwear1.html.
>This one (http://www.bumply.com/Medieval/braies.htm) is for c.1265.

Thank you, I appreciate it.

Marc

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>but one avenue to pursue is to find an out of copyright photo (yes, usually black and white and grainy) from an old book. 
>
Each photo (and other illustration) has its own copyright.  It may have 
been licensed (but not bought outright)  from another source.  The 
copyright date and ownership of the photo is not necessarily the same as 
the copyright date and ownership of the book, nor that of other photos 
in the book.  This is particularly true of the type of art and costume 
books that show many  "pictures of great works" from different 
collections. The photo's own status and ownership must be verified.  

> While there is considerable debate as to whether or not a new photograph of a public domain painting is copyrightable (and no, not interested in that conversation again)
>
Based on exactly one district court case in New York.  The Bridgeman 
case has received considerable publicity, but it does not guarantee that 
other people using new photos of public domain photos will not be 
sued--successfully. 

And, a US court case has no application whatever to works that have been 
copyrighted in other countries. Each country has its own copyright laws. 
The US does not determine or dictate copyright laws for any other 
country.  A work is copyrighted in the country where its copyright has 
been registered, under that country's laws.  Most countries have agreed 
to respect each other's copyright laws, and all the laws are somewhat 
different.  If you are in the US and you want to use a photo or other 
work copyrighted in Denmark, you must use it according to _Danish_ 
copyright law.  If the work would be in the public domain if it had been 
published in the US but is not in the public domain in Denmark, you 
cannot use it without permission from the Danish copyright owner.  
Photos of works in a foreign museum may well have been taken in that 
country and copyrighted under its laws.

>An option for those of us who don't really want to pay fees for our hobby or deal with potential cease and desist letters.
>  
>
Pursuit of copyright violation can go a lot further than that, and may 
entail considerably more inconvenience and expense than "dealing with" a 
cease and desist letter.

Fran

>  
>
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>but one avenue to pursue is to find an out of copyright photo (yes, usually black and white and grainy) from an old book. 
>
Fran wrote: eacch photo (and other illustration) has its own copyright.  It may have 
been licensed (but not bought outright)  from another source.  The 
copyright date and ownership of the photo is not necessarily the same as 
the copyright date and ownership of the book, nor that of other photos 
in the book.  This is particularly true of the type of art and costume 
books that show many  "pictures of great works" from different 
collections. The photo's own status and ownership must be verified.  

I reply:  The publication date of the photo for copyright purposes, is either earlier than the relevant copyright date of the book, or exactly the same or it would not be accessible to the publisher for inclusion, thus the copyright on the photo would expire on or before the date the book falls out of copyright..... except of course in those situations where time bends over itself and we enter other dimensions :-)



Lisa Sinervo 
             
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Man's shoe
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
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> OK so I decided its time for me to get a pair of good period shoes to go
> with my doublets and such. Does anyone have pictures and sketches of
> Elizabethan shoes? I am planning to take the pictures to a shoe maker
> here in Jerusalem and see what he can come up with. We seem to have a
> lot of Shoe makers here in Israel.
>

What class of shoe are you looking for?  I have a picture of a sailor's
shoe from the wreckage of the Mary Rose which was sunk during Henry VIII's
reign.  But it is not a nobleman's shoe.

There is also a book called "Shoes and Pattens" which has information
about English shoes from actual sources.  But it may not include shoes as
late as Elizabethan.

There are also some great portraits out there that show a full view of men
in doublets that you could get an idea about the nobleman's shoe.  Look up
people like Dudley, Sidney, Darnley etc.  And many of them might be
online.  I am sorry that I don't have time to give you some images, but
maybe others on the list can help with that.

Good luck!

Diana Habra
www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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In a message dated 6/7/2004 11:13:15 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
Lisa-list@thrednedlestrete.com writes:
The publication date of the photo for copyright purposes, is either earlier 
than the relevant copyright date of the book, or exactly the same or it would 
not be accessible to the publisher for inclusion, thus the copyright on the 
photo would expire on or before the date the book falls out of copyright..... 
except of course in those situations where time bends over itself and we enter 
other dimensions :-)
Well, I think it would be possible for the owner of the photo to have renewed 
its copyright, whereas the copyright of the book itself may not have been 
renewed. I grant you, that is probably a very rare circumstance, but it COULD 
happen. So, even if said book is in the public domain, the photograph might not 
be.
Ann Wass
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(obligatory
> costuming notice..LOVED her version of Scarlett
> O'Hara's green velvet
> dress!)

Just by chance, the grandmother of one of my childhood
friends was a seamstress in Bob Mackie's shop and she
built all those costumes (and the evening gowns) that
were worn on the Carol Burnett show (she also built a
lot of stuff for Las Vegas shows). She used to bring
bags of scraps home from work so we could make clothes
for our Barbie dolls.

My mom still has some of those doll clothes and I am
amazed at the fabrics we used--all silks and other
luxury fabrics. We had very well-dressed Barbies!

Dawn

=====
Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are just the costumes we wear every day.
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Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2004 11:35:58 -0400
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well, I have to admit, I came into lambchop late and yes I did find it
annoying.  just about as annoying as Barney or Mister Rogers is now. 
but I never seemed to get tired of Captain Kangaroo, I bet I watched it
til I was 10.   And I so loved Carol Burnett, and Sonny and Cher when I
could catch it.   the costumes were only the half of it.   LOL  Kitty

Dianne & Greg Stucki wrote:
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Catherine Olanich Raymond" <cathy@thyrsus.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2004 11:00 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kids and TV
> 
> > On Sunday 06 June 2004 09:32 pm, Kitty Felton wrote:
> > [snip]
> > >
> > > the only children's shows I got to watch were Captain Kangaroo, and
> > > Sharie Lewis and lamb Chop (a puppet show) so I am dating myself for
> > > sure.
> >
> > Then you're the same vintage as me.  I watched those shows, too.  :-)
> 
> Lamb Chop annoyed me, but I loved Captain Kangaroo. Anyone else remember
> Kimba The White Lion?
> 
> And I was sooo excited when my parents finally decided I was old enough to
> stay up and watch the Carol Burnett show at ten o clock! Woo! (obligatory
> costuming notice..LOVED her version of Scarlett O'Hara's green velvet
> dress!)
> 
> Dianne
> >
> > And since my parents didn't limit my viewing, I also got to watch Pixanne,
> and
> > Sally Starr, and Gilligan's Island, and bunches of other stuff.
> >
> >
> > --
> > Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
> >
> > "A man cannot be too careful in the choice of his enemies."
> > -Oscar Wilde
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jun  7 11:47:35 2004
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From: "Lisa Sinervo" <Lisa-list@thrednedlestrete.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] copyright photos
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I am only talking about the copyright expiration for books due to age, not by failing post correct copyright notices etc, as of course a books contents could fall out of copyright do to a lack of notice but the photos could still be protected.  But in the instance of a book going into the public domain due to its age, then the photos would also have thier copyright expire.

I'm really only trying to be helpful in finding ways to document garment construction.  I have hope that as the years pass more and more quality reproductions will be available to us.  On the other hand, many museums are putting their collections on line so a link to their sites also serve well.  I'll all for supporting museums.

Lisa
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: AnnBWass@aol.com
Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date:  Mon, 7 Jun 2004 11:31:12 EDT

>In a message dated 6/7/2004 11:13:15 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
>Lisa-list@thrednedlestrete.com writes:
>The publication date of the photo for copyright purposes, is either earlier 
>than the relevant copyright date of the book, or exactly the same or it would 
>not be accessible to the publisher for inclusion, thus the copyright on the 
>photo would expire on or before the date the book falls out of copyright..... 
>except of course in those situations where time bends over itself and we enter 
>other dimensions :-)
>Well, I think it would be possible for the owner of the photo to have renewed 
>its copyright, whereas the copyright of the book itself may not have been 
>renewed. I grant you, that is probably a very rare circumstance, but it COULD 
>happen. So, even if said book is in the public domain, the photograph might not 
>be.
>Ann Wass
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
 
             
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Subject: [h-cost] Bob Mackie: was Kids and TV
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OOhhh Bob Mackie!  He and Carol Burnett and Cher  are responsible for 
my love of costume design and shiny objects.  :D  One of the first 
books related to dress I ever bought was a book on Bob Mackie.  *sigh*  
I envy your barbie dolls.  lol

Althea

On Monday, June 7, 2004, at 08:35 AM, Kitty Felton wrote:

> well, I have to admit, I came into lambchop late and yes I did find it
> annoying.  just about as annoying as Barney or Mister Rogers is now.
> but I never seemed to get tired of Captain Kangaroo, I bet I watched it
> til I was 10.   And I so loved Carol Burnett, and Sonny and Cher when I
> could catch it.   the costumes were only the half of it.   LOL  Kitty
>
> Dianne & Greg Stucki wrote:
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Catherine Olanich Raymond" <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2004 11:00 PM
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kids and TV
>>
>>> On Sunday 06 June 2004 09:32 pm, Kitty Felton wrote:
>>> [snip]
>>>>
>>>> the only children's shows I got to watch were Captain Kangaroo, and
>>>> Sharie Lewis and lamb Chop (a puppet show) so I am dating myself for
>>>> sure.
>>>
>>> Then you're the same vintage as me.  I watched those shows, too.  :-)
>>
>> Lamb Chop annoyed me, but I loved Captain Kangaroo. Anyone else 
>> remember
>> Kimba The White Lion?
>>
>> And I was sooo excited when my parents finally decided I was old 
>> enough to
>> stay up and watch the Carol Burnett show at ten o clock! Woo! 
>> (obligatory
>> costuming notice..LOVED her version of Scarlett O'Hara's green velvet
>> dress!)
>>
>> Dianne
>>>
>>> And since my parents didn't limit my viewing, I also got to watch 
>>> Pixanne,
>> and
>>> Sally Starr, and Gilligan's Island, and bunches of other stuff.
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>>>
>>> "A man cannot be too careful in the choice of his enemies."
>>> -Oscar Wilde
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com
*** http://www.alfalfapress.com

Public Relations Manager
Sauron/Voldemort 2004

Bush/Cheney - Bringing Bigotry back to the Constitution.

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It is not necesarily true that because the text of a book is in the 
public domain, that illustrations or other elements in it that have 
different copyright owners are in the public domain.

The public domain status of some older US copyrights depends on whether 
and when the copyright has been renewed. Also, US 
coporate/organizational copyrights have different expiration dates than 
ones by indivudual authors. Thus the copyright status of text, 
illustrations, and other elements belonging to different copyright 
owners may be different.

Also, as I mentioned, if licensed illustrations or other elements are 
copyrighted under foreign copyright laws, the date and conditions under 
which they pass into the public domain are different from under US law.  
Note that the modern US and foreign laws do not necessarily apply to 
works copyrighted under older laws.  Also, if a copyrighted is 
registered in two or more countries on the publication of the work, the 
longest copyright duration is the one that now applies.

Fran
http://www.lavoltapress.com

>
>I reply:  The publication date of the photo for copyright purposes, is either earlier than the relevant copyright date of the book, or exactly the same or it would not be accessible to the publisher for inclusion, thus the copyright on the photo would expire on or before the date the book falls out of copyright..... except of course in those situations where time bends over itself and we enter other dimensions :-)
>
>
>
>  
>
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Not that rare.  For one thing, it's not uncommon for an author to ask 
another author for use of photos, tables, text, or other elements that 
first appeared in the other author's book.

Fran


>Well, I think it would be possible for the owner of the photo to have renewed 
>its copyright, whereas the copyright of the book itself may not have been 
>renewed. I grant you, that is probably a very rare circumstance, but it COULD 
>happen. So, even if said book is in the public domain, the photograph might not 
>be.
>Ann Wass
>_______________________________________________
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>
>
>  
>
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*hums this is the song that never ends*
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kitty Felton" <basyefelton@floodcity.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, June 07, 2004 11:35 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kids and TV


> well, I have to admit, I came into lambchop late and yes I did find it
> annoying.  just about as annoying as Barney or Mister Rogers is now.
> but I never seemed to get tired of Captain Kangaroo, I bet I watched it
> til I was 10.   And I so loved Carol Burnett, and Sonny and Cher when I
> could catch it.   the costumes were only the half of it.   LOL  Kitty
>
> Dianne & Greg Stucki wrote:
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Catherine Olanich Raymond" <cathy@thyrsus.com>
> > To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2004 11:00 PM
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kids and TV
> >
> > > On Sunday 06 June 2004 09:32 pm, Kitty Felton wrote:
> > > [snip]
> > > >
> > > > the only children's shows I got to watch were Captain Kangaroo, and
> > > > Sharie Lewis and lamb Chop (a puppet show) so I am dating myself for
> > > > sure.
> > >
> > > Then you're the same vintage as me.  I watched those shows, too.  :-)
> >
> > Lamb Chop annoyed me, but I loved Captain Kangaroo. Anyone else remember
> > Kimba The White Lion?
> >
> > And I was sooo excited when my parents finally decided I was old enough
to
> > stay up and watch the Carol Burnett show at ten o clock! Woo!
(obligatory
> > costuming notice..LOVED her version of Scarlett O'Hara's green velvet
> > dress!)
> >
> > Dianne
> > >
> > > And since my parents didn't limit my viewing, I also got to watch
Pixanne,
> > and
> > > Sally Starr, and Gilligan's Island, and bunches of other stuff.
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
> > >
> > > "A man cannot be too careful in the choice of his enemies."
> > > -Oscar Wilde
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Angharad ver' Reynulf" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kids and TV
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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...OOH Bice, you are an EVIL woman.

Now that song, like the one my son was singing this
morning from SchoolHouse Rock are doing a round in my
head.

Electricity... and that song DO NOT go well.

Obligatory costume note.  The first of my two wedding
ceremonies was last Saturday.  I wore the GFD made
from the silk velvet my brother gave me and the wool
sideless with Robin's wool and pattern-I got the
spangles and fur on it just in time.  Molly wore a new
Elizabethan which she had put lots of beautiful roses
on it (she's my maid of honor).

Angharad/ Jonnalyhn Wolfcat
(pictures will be posted at a website soon)


	
		
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Elizabethan Man's shoe
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>From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
> > OK so I decided its time for me to get a pair of good period shoes to go
> > with my doublets and such. Does anyone have pictures and sketches of
> > Elizabethan shoes? I am planning to take the pictures to a shoe maker
> > here in Jerusalem and see what he can come up with. We seem to have a
> > lot of Shoe makers here in Israel.
>What class of shoe are you looking for?  I have a picture of a sailor's
>shoe from the wreckage of the Mary Rose which was sunk during Henry VIII's
>reign.  But it is not a nobleman's shoe.

Ah, but it closely resembles a nobleman's shoe of the Elizabethan period 
(the nobleman's shoe would be of fancier materials and not made as a turn 
shoe).

>There is also a book called "Shoes and Pattens" which has information
>about English shoes from actual sources.  But it may not include shoes as
>late as Elizabethan.

It doesn't :)

Actually, I have a question that's been nagging at me for quite some time.  
If there are traditional hand work shoemakers in Israel, my assumption is 
that they'd use needles instead of boar bristles - is this correct?  (I know 
it sounds stupid, but I have several sources who are just convinced that if 
it's not made with bristles, it's not a real shoe).

Marc

Marc

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Also do not forget "the ants go marching one by one h urrah hurrah"
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Angharad ver' Reynulf" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, June 07, 2004 1:16 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kids and TV


> ...OOH Bice, you are an EVIL woman.
> 
> Now that song, like the one my son was singing this
> morning from SchoolHouse Rock are doing a round in my
> head.
> 
> Electricity... and that song DO NOT go well.
> 
> Obligatory costume note.  The first of my two wedding
> ceremonies was last Saturday.  I wore the GFD made
> from the silk velvet my brother gave me and the wool
> sideless with Robin's wool and pattern-I got the
> spangles and fur on it just in time.  Molly wore a new
> Elizabethan which she had put lots of beautiful roses
> on it (she's my maid of honor).
> 
> Angharad/ Jonnalyhn Wolfcat
> (pictures will be posted at a website soon)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Friends.  Fun.  Try the all-new Yahoo! Messenger.
> http://messenger.yahoo.com/ 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jun  7 13:38:55 2004
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From: "Peavy, Tish" <tish.peavy@yourcall.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 12:38:04 -0500 
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Subject: [h-cost] OT: reenactors in Alabama
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I'm sorry for the off-topic (well, sort of) post.  I was wondering if there
are any reenactors on this list from Alabama, specifically in the central
part of the state.   If there are, could you please email me off list? I am
looking for a group to become involved in.   I know it would probably be
just as easy to look on the net, but I don't have access until I get home
from work and I will probably have forgotten about it by then. Anyway,
thanks in advance for any help you may be able to provide.

Tish in AL
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> Stephen
> 
> The Bible contains six admonishments to homosexuals
> and 362 admonishments to
> heterosexuals. That doesn't mean that God doesn't
> love heterosexuals. It's
> just that they need more supervision. ~ Lynn Lavner
> 

Stephen,

I love your sign off...it's the first real laugh I've
had today!  I hope you (nor Lynn Lavner) don't mind me
shareing it with others.  It's great.

I'm a newbie, in fact, yours is only the 4th e-mail
i've read, and lots more to go.....

Anne



=====
Go softly and gently for those you meet here will be
those you know hereafter."


	
		
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> 
> The Bible contains six admonishments to homosexuals
> and 362 admonishments to
> heterosexuals. That doesn't mean that God doesn't
> love heterosexuals. It's
> just that they need more supervision. ~ Lynn Lavner

Dear Steven,
I loved this citation as well!
Bless you!
Bjarne 



Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/

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Subject: [h-cost] Signoffs (Was danish courtdress)
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Anne, I love Stephens tag also. Your signoff is lovely. Who is your quote
from? A book, poem, song?
LynnD

On 6/7/04 11:38 AM, "Cheri Merideth" <celticcheri@yahoo.com> wrote:

>> Stephen
>> 
>> The Bible contains six admonishments to homosexuals
>> and 362 admonishments to
>> heterosexuals. That doesn't mean that God doesn't
>> love heterosexuals. It's
>> just that they need more supervision. ~ Lynn Lavner
>> 
> 
> Stephen,
> 
> I love your sign off...it's the first real laugh I've
> had today!  I hope you (nor Lynn Lavner) don't mind me
> shareing it with others.  It's great.
> 
> I'm a newbie, in fact, yours is only the 4th e-mail
> i've read, and lots more to go.....
> 
> Anne
> 
> 
> 
> =====
> Go softly and gently for those you meet here will be
> those you know hereafter."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __________________________________
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> Friends.  Fun.  Try the all-new Yahoo! Messenger.
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jun  7 14:59:46 2004
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Hi,
Thanks for all your inputs.
If it only is a matter of payment to be allowed to post a picture on the
net, i would not mind.
So i should try to contakt both the museum who owns the portrait, and the
photographer who took the picture for the book?
At Rosenborg you pay a fee to photograph there. But i asume that it dont
give you right to post your pictures to the net?
The portrait wich i am making the dress of, is send to the danish National
Museums restauration department this moment, so i will not have any chance
to make my own picture of it. This could have saved me a fee to the
photographer, if i used my own picture.
The portrait is going to be a part of a new excibition at the danish
National Museum this fall about danish country nobility life wich opens this
fall.
I have an old black and white photo of the portrait from a book from the
30ies, but it is so bad and poor comparing to the new colour photo.
I would be interrested to post the picture about 3 months time.
Thanks for your inputs, ill contakt the museum tomorrow.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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From: "Danielle Nunn-Weinberg" <dannw@eudoramail.com>
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Greetings,

I would suggest looking at the full-length portraits by Gheeraerts, or if you don't mind them from the early 1600s, William Larkin.  You might also want to try contacting the Bata Shoe Museum in Toronto http://www.batashoemuseum.ca

There are also pictures of shoe's in Arnold's Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd but I believe they are all women's.

Cheers,
Danielle

--------- Original Message ---------
>OK so I decided its time for me to get a pair of good period shoes to go
>with my doublets and such. Does anyone have pictures and sketches of
>Elizabethan shoes? I am planning to take the pictures to a shoe maker
>here in Jerusalem and see what he can come up with. We seem to have a
>lot of Shoe makers here in Israel.
>
>-- 
>--Yehoshua ben Haim haLevi
>Senischal incipient Shire of Beit Aryeh
>MKA: Zachary Kessin Jerusalem Israel
>zkessin@cs.brandeis.edu +972 50 780 9717 +1 646 201 9507
>
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Need a new email address that people can remember
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with a rum tum taddle um
old John Braddlelum..

Dianne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bice" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, June 07, 2004 11:51 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kids and TV


> *hums this is the song that never ends*
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Kitty Felton" <basyefelton@floodcity.net>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Monday, June 07, 2004 11:35 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kids and TV
>
>
> > well, I have to admit, I came into lambchop late and yes I did find it
> > annoying.  just about as annoying as Barney or Mister Rogers is now.
> > but I never seemed to get tired of Captain Kangaroo, I bet I watched it
> > til I was 10.   And I so loved Carol Burnett, and Sonny and Cher when I
> > could catch it.   the costumes were only the half of it.   LOL  Kitty
> >
> > Dianne & Greg Stucki wrote:
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Catherine Olanich Raymond" <cathy@thyrsus.com>
> > > To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > > Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2004 11:00 PM
> > > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kids and TV
> > >
> > > > On Sunday 06 June 2004 09:32 pm, Kitty Felton wrote:
> > > > [snip]
> > > > >
> > > > > the only children's shows I got to watch were Captain Kangaroo,
and
> > > > > Sharie Lewis and lamb Chop (a puppet show) so I am dating myself
for
> > > > > sure.
> > > >
> > > > Then you're the same vintage as me.  I watched those shows, too.
:-)
> > >
> > > Lamb Chop annoyed me, but I loved Captain Kangaroo. Anyone else
remember
> > > Kimba The White Lion?
> > >
> > > And I was sooo excited when my parents finally decided I was old
enough
> to
> > > stay up and watch the Carol Burnett show at ten o clock! Woo!
> (obligatory
> > > costuming notice..LOVED her version of Scarlett O'Hara's green velvet
> > > dress!)
> > >
> > > Dianne
> > > >
> > > > And since my parents didn't limit my viewing, I also got to watch
> Pixanne,
> > > and
> > > > Sally Starr, and Gilligan's Island, and bunches of other stuff.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
> > > >
> > > > "A man cannot be too careful in the choice of his enemies."
> > > > -Oscar Wilde
> > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > h-costume mailing list
> > > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> _______________________________________________
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Normal?
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One of my friends always used to say "When you lift your skirt to go up 
stairs - and you're wearing a mini-skirt!"

Jean


Julie <jtknits@cts.com> wrote
><G>  How about when you're in a mundane crowd and shout, "Huzzah!"?
>Julie
>
>>> > What is it with this generation and video
>>> > games?
>>>
>>You know this hobby has started to affect your mind when (in a mundane
>location) you see a crowd of people staring at something, when you go over
>to find out what they're staring at >you see somebody dressed in historical
>costume (A lady from my SCA Barony wearing 16th century Venetian) and look
>straight past them still searching for what everybody is looking at. Now
>don't tell me that's 'normal'
>>Elizabeth
>>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Wool (was First time Regency)
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Kitty Felton <basyefelton@floodcity.net> wrote
>Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
>>
>>
>> On the other hand, the worsted suits I own tend to be water-repellent and
>> stain-resistant, which automatically makes cleaning less of an issue.
>
>
>LOL, OH yeah, right, I was going to say that.  teehee.
>
>
>
>> (Though I am sure many list members will post to advise you that they have
>> washed wool with impunity.)
>>
>
>  but doesn't wool need to be either a blend or treated with
>formaldahyde to make it washable without shrinking?
>
>Kitty
>
I wash our wool garments by hand, in lukewarm water, and have never had 
any significant problems.  Of course, these are relatively early-period 
(12th-14th century) items, and not fine fabrics with patterns or special 
weaves, so if they get a bit more fluffy it doesn't matter.  But (touch 
wood!) I don't remember every having anything shrink.

Jean
-- 
Jean Waddie
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Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2004 14:28:35 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Man's shoe
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At 03:29 PM 6/7/2004 +0300, you wrote:
>OK so I decided its time for me to get a pair of good period shoes to go
>with my doublets and such. Does anyone have pictures and sketches of
>Elizabethan shoes? I am planning to take the pictures to a shoe maker
>here in Jerusalem and see what he can come up with. We seem to have a
>lot of Shoe makers here in Israel.
>
>--
>--Yehoshua ben Haim haLevi
>Senischal incipient Shire of Beit Aryeh
>MKA: Zachary Kessin Jerusalem Israel



Hiya,

I just got a book from Lacis in Berkeley that would fit your description.

ROYAL & HISTORIC GLOVES & SHOES, W. B. Redfern
Gloves and shoes viewed from a historical perspective from medieval times, 
where their main function was as an ornamental accessory of church and 
state. A reproduction of the original 1904 edition. ISBN 1-891656-51-1. 
219pgs (p) (LH23) $34.00

You may be able to find the original or the copy in a library somewhere, or 
if you want to order it, the book can be found at www.lacis.com. I bought 
it mainly for the gloves, but the photos of the shoes are decent, if only 
in B&W for the most part. There are photos and in some cases watercolor 
images (rendered in B&W, unfortunately) taken from actual shoes found in 
England for the most part and either in museums or in private collections. 
The author does have a few shoes from Henry VIII and Elizabeth, and has 
both men's and women's shoes.

hth,

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Owner ~ DreamTime Studios
http://www.dreamtime-studios.com

"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell
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Or shout "Hold!!!" in the middle of a business meeting....  My friend 
has done that... And it worked too! LOL

Jenne

Jean Waddie wrote:

> One of my friends always used to say "When you lift your skirt to go 
> up stairs - and you're wearing a mini-skirt!"
>
> Jean
>



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In a message dated 6/7/04 5:16:37 PM Central Daylight Time, 
philnstine@worldnet.att.net writes:
Or shout "Hold!!!" in the middle of a business meeting....  My friend 
has done that... And it worked too! LOL

Jenne


And on a related or similar note, how about when you're having an actual face 
to face conversation with someone, they say something amusing, and you 
actually open your mouth and say, "LOL!"

::I wish I was kidding::

-Tiffany
Non vestimentum virum ornat, sed vir vestimentum.
*******************************
Reflections*of*Worth
http://stores.ebay.com/Reflections-of-Worth
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: reenactors in Alabama
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Tish, what kind of group? ...here is the SCA and there are the Civil war 
guys. I am in Birmingham. Where  are you? I am a Scadian.

LadyWilhelmina of
Barony of Iron Mountain and
ClanConfused






>From: "Peavy, Tish" <tish.peavy@yourcall.com>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] OT: reenactors in Alabama
>Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 12:38:04 -0500
>
>I'm sorry for the off-topic (well, sort of) post.  I was wondering if there
>are any reenactors on this list from Alabama, specifically in the central
>part of the state.   If there are, could you please email me off list? I am
>looking for a group to become involved in.   I know it would probably be
>just as easy to look on the net, but I don't have access until I get home
>from work and I will probably have forgotten about it by then. Anyway,
>thanks in advance for any help you may be able to provide.
>
>Tish in AL
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My personal favourite happened to lady who was in my Naval unit as well as being in the SCA - she curtsied instead of saluting an officer on parade.  Luckily he was so bemused that she didn't get in any trouble over it... <G>

Cheers,
Danielle
--------- Original Message ---------
><G>  How about when you're in a mundane crowd and shout, "Huzzah!"?
>Julie
>
>>> > What is it with this generation and video
>>> > games?
>>>
>>You know this hobby has started to affect your mind when (in a mundane
>location) you see a crowd of people staring at something, when you go over
>to find out what they're staring at >you see somebody dressed in historical
>costume (A lady from my SCA Barony wearing 16th century Venetian) and look
>straight past them still searching for what everybody is looking at. Now
>don't tell me that's 'normal'
>>Elizabeth
>>
>
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Need a new email address that people can remember
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Subject: [h-cost] Kids and TV
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>Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2004 02:05:35 -0400 (EDT)
>From: <basyefelton@floodcity.net>
>Subject: RE: [h-cost] Teaching others how to sew
>
>My personal experience with TV and kids is that it makes them whiny,
>unimaginative, over stimulated and over dependent on others to entertain
>them.   I personally think no kid under the age of 8 should watch much of
>anything on TV,  it seems to slow them developmentally, and I include
>barney and Sesame street in that catagory.   I let my own kids watch them,
>but seeing how much better my grandkids behave when I don't let them turn
>it on, I repent with tears.  LOL
>
>Kitty


On the other hand, I and my siblings were raised with a lot of TV. We often 
did homework with it on. I read voraciously, sew,  and dabble with other 
art. My siblings have similar experiences. None of us were whinny or had 
any trouble entertaining ourselves.

My nephews have similar experiences. The eldest is working on his last few 
merit badges for Eagle Scout at the age of 14.

I believe it all depends on the child. Some have problems with it and 
others don't.

Pierre

> > Personally I would not go blaming the TV. The TV is a tool, a fixture
> > that can be used and/or abused.
> >
> > Also, I do not think it was the TV that inspired the wall painting. My
> > brother and I colored one whole wall without any inspiration from the
> > TV. Not to mention the mud hand prints on the side of the neighbors
> > house. Ooo and then we discovered magic markers.
> > You can color and paint anything if you put your mind to it. :)
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > Sorry but I have to get this off my chest.  THIS IS WHY MY SON DOES NOT
> > WATCH TV!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> >
> > I know what TV did to me from watching too much, and I am not putting my
> > son though the sort of pain I went through to get a life.  Pull the
> > plug, and they will find something else too do.  My biggest problem

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 20:53:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: Cheri Merideth <celticcheri@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Signoffs (Was danish courtdress)
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--- Lynn Downward <LDownward@chori.org> wrote:
> Anne, I love Stephens tag also. Your signoff is
> lovely. Who is your quote
> from? A book, poem, song?
> LynnD


Lynn,

Thank you.  To think you thought someone "skilled"
wrote it. :)

I wrote that.  My 16 year old son was killed 7 years
ago and that is where it came from.  

Anne


=====
Go softly and gently for those you meet here will be
those you know hereafter."


	
		
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ok it wasn't just me.  If it wasn't this one it was very similar.

Molly

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Audrey Bergeron-Morin
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2004 3:15 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Shrek II


Did anyone else notice?

In Fiona's parents' castle, in the background, twice, I saw a portrait that
looked suspiciously like this:
http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/c/clouet/francois/queen_el.jpg

Of course, they made it huge in the movie, I saw it in the Louvre and it's
only 36 x 26 cm.

Can someone confirm this? Was I just wishing to see it?

It's like seeing the Lady with the Unicorn (the 5 senses) tapestries in
Gryffindor's common room in Harry Potter!
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jun  8 05:26:59 2004
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From: Lena Strid <lstrid@mglarc.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Sark?
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Does anyone here know what a 'sark' is? It's mentioned in a wardrobe account
from Mary Queen of Scots (see quote below). My only theory is that it's a
Scottish word for chemise, considering that quite a few words in Northern
England/Scotland have Scandinavian ancestry, and it is very similar to the
Swedish word for chemise ('särk'). 

"There were five silk gowns, two others (presumably of wool since the
material is not specified), three waistcoats or petticoats, a pair of
sheets, eight sarks, two napkins and a kerchief, a pair of drawers (calsons)
two or three pairs of hose, and 'ane saiting patecleyth' (a satin
head-dress)."

/Lena


=================================================
Margaret Gowen & Co. Ltd.
Archaeological Consultants & Project Managers
2 Killiney View                   Tel: 01-2300433
Albert Road Lower                 Fax: 01-2300865
Glenageary         e-mail: archaeology@mglarc.com
Co. Dublin	   website: http://www.mglarc.com
=================================================

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jun  8 05:48:19 2004
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <87A506E53AFF4C4CB2C565044BA209E75A6389@oldntserver.stoneage.mglarc.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sark?
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 11:46:36 +0200
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Hi,
Yes i think you are right.
Danish word is særk.
In York there is the street called coppergate and it is nearly the same as
the danish kobbergade.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lena Strid" <lstrid@mglarc.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 11:24 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Sark?


> Does anyone here know what a 'sark' is? It's mentioned in a wardrobe
account
> from Mary Queen of Scots (see quote below). My only theory is that it's a
> Scottish word for chemise, considering that quite a few words in Northern
> England/Scotland have Scandinavian ancestry, and it is very similar to the
> Swedish word for chemise ('särk').
>
> "There were five silk gowns, two others (presumably of wool since the
> material is not specified), three waistcoats or petticoats, a pair of
> sheets, eight sarks, two napkins and a kerchief, a pair of drawers
(calsons)
> two or three pairs of hose, and 'ane saiting patecleyth' (a satin
> head-dress)."
>
> /Lena
>
>
> =================================================
> Margaret Gowen & Co. Ltd.
> Archaeological Consultants & Project Managers
> 2 Killiney View                   Tel: 01-2300433
> Albert Road Lower                 Fax: 01-2300865
> Glenageary         e-mail: archaeology@mglarc.com
> Co. Dublin    website: http://www.mglarc.com
> =================================================
>
> CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE
> This email is private and confidential and may contain
> legally privileged information.  If you are not  named
> above as an addressee it may  be unlawful for  you  to
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jun  8 06:13:45 2004
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From: Lena Strid <lstrid@mglarc.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Sark?
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 11:06:33 +0100 
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Status: RO

Yes, it would fit in context as well as (in theory) linguistically, but I'm
too aware of false friends ('rolig', anyone? :-) ) to just accept it. As it
is neither my preferred period nor place, I would like to have it confirmed
before I use it in the lecture. Do you _know_ it means chemise, or are you,
like me, just making an educated guess?

/Lena

-----Original Message-----
From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [mailto:drewscph@post12.tele.dk]
Sent: 08 June 2004 10:47
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sark?


Hi,
Yes i think you are right.
Danish word is særk.
In York there is the street called coppergate and it is nearly the same as
the danish kobbergade.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lena Strid" <lstrid@mglarc.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 11:24 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Sark?


> Does anyone here know what a 'sark' is? It's mentioned in a wardrobe
account
> from Mary Queen of Scots (see quote below). My only theory is that it's a
> Scottish word for chemise, considering that quite a few words in Northern
> England/Scotland have Scandinavian ancestry, and it is very similar to the
> Swedish word for chemise ('särk').
>
> "There were five silk gowns, two others (presumably of wool since the
> material is not specified), three waistcoats or petticoats, a pair of
> sheets, eight sarks, two napkins and a kerchief, a pair of drawers
(calsons)
> two or three pairs of hose, and 'ane saiting patecleyth' (a satin
> head-dress)."
>
> /Lena
>
>
> =================================================
> Margaret Gowen & Co. Ltd.
> Archaeological Consultants & Project Managers
> 2 Killiney View                   Tel: 01-2300433
> Albert Road Lower                 Fax: 01-2300865
> Glenageary         e-mail: archaeology@mglarc.com
> Co. Dublin    website: http://www.mglarc.com
> =================================================
>
> CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE
> This email is private and confidential and may contain
> legally privileged information.  If you are not  named
> above as an addressee it may  be unlawful for  you  to
> read, copy, distribute, disclose or otherwise use  the
> information in this email. If you are not the intended
> recipient  of this email  please contact  our  systems
> administrator. Thank you.
>
> NOTE
> Any views or opinions  presented  are solely those  of
> the author  and do not  necessarily represent those of
> the  company  or  its  associated   companies   unless
> otherwise specifically stated.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


_______________________________________________
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=================================================
Margaret Gowen & Co. Ltd.
Archaeological Consultants & Project Managers
2 Killiney View                   Tel: 01-2300433
Albert Road Lower                 Fax: 01-2300865
Glenageary         e-mail: archaeology@mglarc.com
Co. Dublin	   website: http://www.mglarc.com
=================================================

CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE
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NOTE
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the author  and do not  necessarily represent those of
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jun  8 06:33:39 2004
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <87A506E53AFF4C4CB2C565044BA209E75A638B@oldntserver.stoneage.mglarc.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sark?
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Status: RO

I can only tell you that in our old medieval songs the word særk is
mentioned many times.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lena Strid" <lstrid@mglarc.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 12:06 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Sark?


> Yes, it would fit in context as well as (in theory) linguistically, but
I'm
> too aware of false friends ('rolig', anyone? :-) ) to just accept it. As
it
> is neither my preferred period nor place, I would like to have it
confirmed
> before I use it in the lecture. Do you _know_ it means chemise, or are
you,
> like me, just making an educated guess?
>
> /Lena
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [mailto:drewscph@post12.tele.dk]
> Sent: 08 June 2004 10:47
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sark?
>
>
> Hi,
> Yes i think you are right.
> Danish word is særk.
> In York there is the street called coppergate and it is nearly the same as
> the danish kobbergade.
>
> Bjarne
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Lena Strid" <lstrid@mglarc.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 11:24 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] Sark?
>
>
> > Does anyone here know what a 'sark' is? It's mentioned in a wardrobe
> account
> > from Mary Queen of Scots (see quote below). My only theory is that it's
a
> > Scottish word for chemise, considering that quite a few words in
Northern
> > England/Scotland have Scandinavian ancestry, and it is very similar to
the
> > Swedish word for chemise ('särk').
> >
> > "There were five silk gowns, two others (presumably of wool since the
> > material is not specified), three waistcoats or petticoats, a pair of
> > sheets, eight sarks, two napkins and a kerchief, a pair of drawers
> (calsons)
> > two or three pairs of hose, and 'ane saiting patecleyth' (a satin
> > head-dress)."
> >
> > /Lena
> >
> >
> > =================================================
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On Tue, 8 Jun 2004, Lena Strid wrote:
> Yes, it would fit in context as well as (in theory) linguistically, but I'm
> too aware of false friends ('rolig', anyone? :-) ) to just accept it. As it
> is neither my preferred period nor place, I would like to have it confirmed
> before I use it in the lecture. Do you _know_ it means chemise, or are you,
> like me, just making an educated guess?

According to this online dictionary, you're both right:
http://www.dsl.ac.uk/dsl/ Search for the word, there's a fair amount of
info and a 16th century reference as well.

Ingrid

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Hi,
Why does this weddingdress costs so much? can anybody tell me this?
http://18thcenturycorsets.smugmug.com/gallery/41697/1/1464012/Large
I know it is a designer dress, what is making it different from my designer
historical dresses?
My dresses are much cheaper§ :-(

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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sorry folks, this was ment for Saragrace, not the list
Bjarne

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In a message dated 6/8/2004 6:50:18 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:
My dresses are much cheaper§ :-(
Bjarne--
I suspect you sell your work too cheaply! A common problem with enthusiasts 
(and one reason why I don't sew for sale--I figure people wouldn't want to pay 
what my work is really worth!)
Ann Wass
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I am happy you send it to the list.
Those dresses are beautiful!
Nice mixture between historical and fantasy.
They are very inspiring.
And way to expensive :-\
Don't think it is less work to make such a gown as the work you put in 
your creations.

Greetings,
        Deredere

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

>sorry folks, this was ment for Saragrace, not the list
>Bjarne
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kids and TV
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well, I admit the particular kid who is the most whiny is just turned 4,
and has been parked in front of the TV since she was 1 I guess.   Now that
she is with me and I have told her no tv, go play, she is doing a lot
more.   I am planning to start her on sewing here soon.    and of course,
it matters who they are, the thing that has most impressed me with my
distaste for TV especially in young kids is the sight of a child sitting
in front of the TV with eyes glued to the set for 3-4 hours on end, unable
to tear their eyes away when spoken to and actually unhearing when spoken
to.   the mindless looks on their faces is scary.    Kitty
>
>
> On the other hand, I and my siblings were raised with a lot of TV. We
> often  did homework with it on. I read voraciously, sew,  and dabble
> with other  art. My siblings have similar experiences. None of us were
> whinny or had  any trouble entertaining ourselves.
>
> My nephews have similar experiences. The eldest is working on his last
> few  merit badges for Eagle Scout at the age of 14.
>
> I believe it all depends on the child. Some have problems with it and
> others don't.
>
> Pierre
>
>> > Personally I would not go blaming the TV. The TV is a tool, a
>> fixture that can be used and/or abused.
>> >
>> > Also, I do not think it was the TV that inspired the wall painting.
>> My brother and I colored one whole wall without any inspiration from
>> the TV. Not to mention the mud hand prints on the side of the
>> neighbors house. Ooo and then we discovered magic markers.
>> > You can color and paint anything if you put your mind to it. :)
>> >
>> >
>> > -----Original Message-----
>> > Sorry but I have to get this off my chest.  THIS IS WHY MY SON DOES
>> NOT WATCH TV!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>> >
>> > I know what TV did to me from watching too much, and I am not
>> putting my son though the sort of pain I went through to get a life.
>>  Pull the plug, and they will find something else too do.  My
>> biggest problem
>
> "Those Who Fail To Learn History
> Are Doomed to Repeat It;
> Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
> Why They Are Simply Doomed.
>
> Achemdro'hm
> "The Illusion of Historical Fact"
>   -- C.Y. 4971
>
> Andromeda
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume



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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jun  8 07:48:42 2004
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Hurra hurra!
I got permission to post the danish court dress!
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/den_franske_hof_stilengelsk.htm

Hurrah!

Bjarne


Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jun  8 08:09:17 2004
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Yashoo!
No problems,
I  was allowed 
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/es3eng.htm
Here is the beautifull dress i am to make!

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/

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Sometimes, all you have to do is ask.
Ann Wass
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YES!
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AnnBWass@aol.com>
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Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 2:17 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] copyrights


> Sometimes, all you have to do is ask.
> Ann Wass
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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And better made and *definitely* better designed, too!
Lord, but that's an ugly dress, especially for a wedding gown!
The descriptions, mixing Elizabethan and 18th c, remind me of those ebay 
sales that try to describe some odd costume in such a way as to snag 
just about everyone's attention, if if the descriptions don't fit.
The brocade is pretty, but wasted (IMHO) on that bodice (which sure 
doesn't look like any 18th c. corset *I've* seen pictures of!), the 
beading is awkward.  The lines of beads as "sleeves" or "straps" kinda 
reminds me of some of the designs in _Dangerous Beauty_.
I'm guessing, Bjarne, that that dress costs that much because someone's 
willing to pay that much (more money than sense?), not because it's 
actually got a greater value than your gowns.
--sue

Bjarne Drews wrote:
> Hi,
> Why does this weddingdress costs so much? can anybody tell me this?
> http://18thcenturycorsets.smugmug.com/gallery/41697/1/1464012/Large
> I know it is a designer dress, what is making it different from my designer
> historical dresses?
> My dresses are much cheaper§ :-(
> 
> Bjarne

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Beautifull dress dont you think?
She looks like a  piede of porcelaine white and read

http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/es3eng.htm


Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jun  8 08:27:05 2004
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From: "Bice" <wantstobecorsetted1@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <87A506E53AFF4C4CB2C565044BA209E75A6389@oldntserver.stoneage.mglarc.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sark?
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 08:11:15 -0400
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also up here (upstate ny) during WWI my great grandmother who died in 98 of
the age of 98 talked of making cuttie sarks which were lice shirts for
soldiers in the trenches. I also saw the reference to cuttie sarks in the
Anne of Green Gables series book "Rilla of Ingleside" and my own grandmother
(my GG's DIL) was scotch and called shirts "sarks" she was from the Tug Hill
area born in Lafargeville.

Bice
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lena Strid" <lstrid@mglarc.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 5:24 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Sark?


> Does anyone here know what a 'sark' is? It's mentioned in a wardrobe
account
> from Mary Queen of Scots (see quote below). My only theory is that it's a
> Scottish word for chemise, considering that quite a few words in Northern
> England/Scotland have Scandinavian ancestry, and it is very similar to the
> Swedish word for chemise ('särk').
>
> "There were five silk gowns, two others (presumably of wool since the
> material is not specified), three waistcoats or petticoats, a pair of
> sheets, eight sarks, two napkins and a kerchief, a pair of drawers
(calsons)
> two or three pairs of hose, and 'ane saiting patecleyth' (a satin
> head-dress)."
>
> /Lena
>
>
> =================================================
> Margaret Gowen & Co. Ltd.
> Archaeological Consultants & Project Managers
> 2 Killiney View                   Tel: 01-2300433
> Albert Road Lower                 Fax: 01-2300865
> Glenageary         e-mail: archaeology@mglarc.com
> Co. Dublin    website: http://www.mglarc.com
> =================================================
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Shrek II
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There was also a portrait of Empress Elizabeth of Austria about 1860.

Annette Bethke

----- Original Message -----
From: "Molly Boone" <Rampant_Peacock@comcast.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 1:16 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Shrek II


> ok it wasn't just me.  If it wasn't this one it was very similar.
>
> Molly
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Audrey Bergeron-Morin
> Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2004 3:15 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] Shrek II
>
>
> Did anyone else notice?
>
> In Fiona's parents' castle, in the background, twice, I saw a portrait
that
> looked suspiciously like this:
> http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/c/clouet/francois/queen_el.jpg
>
> Of course, they made it huge in the movie, I saw it in the Louvre and it's
> only 36 x 26 cm.
>
> Can someone confirm this? Was I just wishing to see it?
>
> It's like seeing the Lady with the Unicorn (the 5 senses) tapestries in
> Gryffindor's common room in Harry Potter!
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] weddingdress
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Ok
I think it is not a bad weddingdress
I agreed on making a fake replica for 3000.00 danish crowns.
Having a meeting this afternoon with the lady

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 2:28 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] weddingdress


> And better made and *definitely* better designed, too!
> Lord, but that's an ugly dress, especially for a wedding gown!
> The descriptions, mixing Elizabethan and 18th c, remind me of those ebay
> sales that try to describe some odd costume in such a way as to snag
> just about everyone's attention, if if the descriptions don't fit.
> The brocade is pretty, but wasted (IMHO) on that bodice (which sure
> doesn't look like any 18th c. corset *I've* seen pictures of!), the
> beading is awkward.  The lines of beads as "sleeves" or "straps" kinda
> reminds me of some of the designs in _Dangerous Beauty_.
> I'm guessing, Bjarne, that that dress costs that much because someone's
> willing to pay that much (more money than sense?), not because it's
> actually got a greater value than your gowns.
> --sue
>
> Bjarne Drews wrote:
> > Hi,
> > Why does this weddingdress costs so much? can anybody tell me this?
> > http://18thcenturycorsets.smugmug.com/gallery/41697/1/1464012/Large
> > I know it is a designer dress, what is making it different from my
designer
> > historical dresses?
> > My dresses are much cheaper§ :-(
> >
> > Bjarne
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "Shane & Sheridan" <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sark?
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 08:58:21 -0400
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Cutty Sark is also a brand of scotch.
Not a very good one, mind you...

Sheridan :-)

From: "Bice"
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sark?


> also up here (upstate ny) during WWI my great grandmother who died in 98
of
> the age of 98 talked of making cuttie sarks which were lice shirts for
> soldiers in the trenches. I also saw the reference to cuttie sarks in the
> Anne of Green Gables series book "Rilla of Ingleside" and my own
grandmother
> (my GG's DIL) was scotch and called shirts "sarks" she was from the Tug
Hill
> area born in Lafargeville.
>
> Bice
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lena Strid" <lstrid@mglarc.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 5:24 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] Sark?
>
>
> > Does anyone here know what a 'sark' is? It's mentioned in a wardrobe
> account
> > from Mary Queen of Scots (see quote below). My only theory is that it's
a
> > Scottish word for chemise, considering that quite a few words in
Northern
> > England/Scotland have Scandinavian ancestry, and it is very similar to
the
> > Swedish word for chemise ('särk').
> >
> > "There were five silk gowns, two others (presumably of wool since the
> > material is not specified), three waistcoats or petticoats, a pair of
> > sheets, eight sarks, two napkins and a kerchief, a pair of drawers
> (calsons)
> > two or three pairs of hose, and 'ane saiting patecleyth' (a satin
> > head-dress)."
> >
> > /Lena
> >
> >
> > =================================================
> > Margaret Gowen & Co. Ltd.
> > Archaeological Consultants & Project Managers
> > 2 Killiney View                   Tel: 01-2300433
> > Albert Road Lower                 Fax: 01-2300865
> > Glenageary         e-mail: archaeology@mglarc.com
> > Co. Dublin    website: http://www.mglarc.com
> > =================================================
> >
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ok, ok -- my personal favorite -

(and it actually happened to me)

The first day back after Pennisc (major SCA event) I had to deliver a fax
to my boss.
He was in the owner's office - so I stopped at the doorway, recieved
acnologement, gave the fax to my boss, curtseyed to him, bigger curtsey to
the owner, backed out of the office to the doorway, then walked back to my
desk.

THEN realized what I had done....

I didn't live THAT down for several weeks.... Thankfully the owner thought
it was funny...

Katheryne

Original Message:
-----------------
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg dannw@eudoramail.com

My personal favourite happened to lady who was in my Naval unit as well as
being in the SCA - she curtsied instead of saluting an officer on parade. 
Luckily he was so bemused that she didn't get in any trouble over it... <G>

Cheers,
Danielle

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Thanks Ingrid! That page is now bookmarked for any future reference.

/Lena

-----Original Message-----
From: Ingrid G. Storrø [mailto:ingridgs@techarea.net]
Sent: 08 June 2004 11:35
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Sark?


On Tue, 8 Jun 2004, Lena Strid wrote:
> Yes, it would fit in context as well as (in theory) linguistically, but
I'm
> too aware of false friends ('rolig', anyone? :-) ) to just accept it. As
it
> is neither my preferred period nor place, I would like to have it
confirmed
> before I use it in the lecture. Do you _know_ it means chemise, or are
you,
> like me, just making an educated guess?

According to this online dictionary, you're both right:
http://www.dsl.ac.uk/dsl/ Search for the word, there's a fair amount of
info and a 16th century reference as well.

Ingrid

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=================================================
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Albert Road Lower                 Fax: 01-2300865
Glenageary         e-mail: archaeology@mglarc.com
Co. Dublin	   website: http://www.mglarc.com
=================================================

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My daughter and I were Christmas shopping with my mother.  While at 
Kohl's, we ran into a cousin of my step-father.  Mother introduced us.  
I shook his hand.  Then he took my daughter's hand....and she 
curtseyed.  Trying to stop the curtsey mid bob, she almost fell over 
ourself. 

We didn't let her live that down for awhile either.

Generys

purplkat@optonline.net wrote:

>ok, ok -- my personal favorite -
>
>(and it actually happened to me)
>
>The first day back after Pennisc (major SCA event) I had to deliver a fax
>to my boss.
>He was in the owner's office - so I stopped at the doorway, recieved
>acnologement, gave the fax to my boss, curtseyed to him, bigger curtsey to
>the owner, backed out of the office to the doorway, then walked back to my
>desk.
>
>THEN realized what I had done....
>
>I didn't live THAT down for several weeks.... Thankfully the owner thought
>it was funny...
>
>Katheryne
>
>Original Message:
>-----------------
>From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg dannw@eudoramail.com
>
>My personal favourite happened to lady who was in my Naval unit as well as
>being in the SCA - she curtsied instead of saluting an officer on parade. 
>Luckily he was so bemused that she didn't get in any trouble over it... <G>
>
>Cheers,
>Danielle
>
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In a message dated 6/8/2004 8:31:29 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:
agreed on making a fake replica for 3000.00 danish crowns.
Having a meeting this afternoon with the lady
I get that as $495. Is that just for your labor, or all materials, too? If 
that is the total price, labor and materials, I stand by my statement that you 
sell yourself too cheap.
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sark?
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 09:14:46 -0400
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Heh yeah was aware of that. It's sorta wino scotch iirc.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Shane & Sheridan" <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 8:58 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sark?


> Cutty Sark is also a brand of scotch.
> Not a very good one, mind you...
>
> Sheridan :-)
>
> From: "Bice"
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sark?
>
>
> > also up here (upstate ny) during WWI my great grandmother who died in 98
> of
> > the age of 98 talked of making cuttie sarks which were lice shirts for
> > soldiers in the trenches. I also saw the reference to cuttie sarks in
the
> > Anne of Green Gables series book "Rilla of Ingleside" and my own
> grandmother
> > (my GG's DIL) was scotch and called shirts "sarks" she was from the Tug
> Hill
> > area born in Lafargeville.
> >
> > Bice
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Lena Strid" <lstrid@mglarc.com>
> > To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 5:24 AM
> > Subject: [h-cost] Sark?
> >
> >
> > > Does anyone here know what a 'sark' is? It's mentioned in a wardrobe
> > account
> > > from Mary Queen of Scots (see quote below). My only theory is that
it's
> a
> > > Scottish word for chemise, considering that quite a few words in
> Northern
> > > England/Scotland have Scandinavian ancestry, and it is very similar to
> the
> > > Swedish word for chemise ('särk').
> > >
> > > "There were five silk gowns, two others (presumably of wool since the
> > > material is not specified), three waistcoats or petticoats, a pair of
> > > sheets, eight sarks, two napkins and a kerchief, a pair of drawers
> > (calsons)
> > > two or three pairs of hose, and 'ane saiting patecleyth' (a satin
> > > head-dress)."
> > >
> > > /Lena
> > >
> > >
> > > =================================================
> > > Margaret Gowen & Co. Ltd.
> > > Archaeological Consultants & Project Managers
> > > 2 Killiney View                   Tel: 01-2300433
> > > Albert Road Lower                 Fax: 01-2300865
> > > Glenageary         e-mail: archaeology@mglarc.com
> > > Co. Dublin    website: http://www.mglarc.com
> > > =================================================
> > >
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] weddingdress
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Ann Wass!
This is two cheap? yes i guess you are right. I dont have
Designers name
Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AnnBWass@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 3:13 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] weddingdress


> In a message dated 6/8/2004 8:31:29 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:
> agreed on making a fake replica for 3000.00 danish crowns.
> Having a meeting this afternoon with the lady
> I get that as $495. Is that just for your labor, or all materials, too? If
> that is the total price, labor and materials, I stand by my statement that
you
> sell yourself too cheap.
> Ann Wass
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jun  8 09:27:49 2004
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From: Lena Strid <lstrid@mglarc.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE:medieval underwear, coloured
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 14:24:05 +0100 
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Marc, if you want more examples of breeches, let me know. I've collected
quite a few images for my underwear lecture.

You wrote:
> It is interesting to note that shoes and body garments like breeches and 
shirts are not mentioned in any of the estate inventories I've ever seen.

There are some undergarments mentioned in Swedish wills. 

And yes, 'braies' is Old French.


/Lena


-----Original Message-----
From: Marc Carlson [mailto:marccarlson20@hotmail.com]
Sent: 07 June 2004 15:26
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] RE:medieval underwear, coloured

This is one of -those- topics where if anyone tells you that "they" 
definitively did one thing or another, look very skeptical.  There are no 
known examples, few pictures - in fact, people don't even call them by the 
same name (I refer to them as Breeches since the Middle English term for 
them is Breches; Braies seems to be the popular term for them today - don't 
ask me where it derives from, I don't know.  I think it's French).  What 
little I do have on them is at 
http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/trousers/breechesindex.ht
m 
(although this morning it's displaying oddly).  I'll eventually get around 
to hooking it into my clothing pages when I'm happy with the pictures 
identification.

It is generally assumed that these were of unbleached linen.  Since these 
are among the garments that would usually see the most wear and washing - 
it's also plausible that they might have used other (old, used) material as 
well.  This could lead to the existence of colored breeches in the pictures.

It is interesting to note that shoes and body garments like breeches and 
shirts are not mentioned in any of the estate inventories I've ever seen.



=================================================
Margaret Gowen & Co. Ltd.
Archaeological Consultants & Project Managers
2 Killiney View                   Tel: 01-2300433
Albert Road Lower                 Fax: 01-2300865
Glenageary         e-mail: archaeology@mglarc.com
Co. Dublin	   website: http://www.mglarc.com
=================================================

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How long will it take you to make this? I would figure at a very minimum $20 
an hour for labor, (that's about 120 crowns) and that really isn't enough for 
the kind of skilled labor you are providing.
Some people here add on 3 times the cost of materials for the finished 
product. I guess this makes sense if you think that, the more expensive the 
materials, and the more of them there are, the longer the dress is going to take.

Ann Wass
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] weddingdress
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 15:38:37 +0200
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I am meting her in person in a material shop this afternoon.
I already told her that she had to pay me 3000. kr. in danish to make this
dress. including hoops and corset bones. She has to pay for the material
besides this!

Bjarne




----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AnnBWass@aol.com>



To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 3:30 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] weddingdress


> How long will it take you to make this? I would figure at a very minimum
$20
> an hour for labor, (that's about 120 crowns) and that really isn't enough
for
> the kind of skilled labor you are providing.
> Some people here add on 3 times the cost of materials for the finished
> product. I guess this makes sense if you think that, the more expensive
the
> materials, and the more of them there are, the longer the dress is going
to take.
>
> Ann Wass
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Katharine Devereaux" <katdevereaux@hotmail.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Charging for your talents
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I would have to agree with Ann, but it's how you market your goods. I have a
friend that is starting a jewelry business and I was concerned about the
time it takes her to make her product. She is not going to be undercharging,
but creating a desire for her product and then charging prices (some of
which I would never even think about paying) to be exclusive and so that it
is worth her time to do this. She was an attorney, but enjoys this more and
will not make quite as much, but as Ann said, she will be making $20 - 30
per hour for her time plus materials.

I personally will only sew for my self and if I do sew for others usually
don't charge my friends at all because my time is worth more than what I
feel right charging them for.  We usually do the barter system around here
where it is the time spent on projects and exchanged, rather than putting a
dollar figure on our time.

There are many people who ask why I don't sew for a living, but I, unlike my
jewelry making friend, don't feel I can charge what my time is worth.  This
might change in the future, but it's not there now.

My 2 cents. 

PS. Bjarne, you have better quality and designs than most designers out
there so I would say to start thinking of yourself like a designer. It might
help others to think about you like that too! 


Kat/Kim

Katharine Devereaux in the SCA
Kimberly Hulse in the rest of my life


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 9:21 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] weddingdress

Ann Wass!
This is two cheap? yes i guess you are right. I dont have
Designers name
Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AnnBWass@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 3:13 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] weddingdress


> In a message dated 6/8/2004 8:31:29 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:
> agreed on making a fake replica for 3000.00 danish crowns.
> Having a meeting this afternoon with the lady
> I get that as $495. Is that just for your labor, or all materials, too? If
> that is the total price, labor and materials, I stand by my statement that
you
> sell yourself too cheap.
> Ann Wass
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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A friends daugther, who is 5, recently met a little boy her age who was not
in the SCA. Upon hearing his name she asked him : "okay, so what's your
*real* name?"

Sheridan

----- Original Message -----
From: "Danielle Nunn-Weinberg" <dannw@eudoramail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 3:25 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Normal?


> My personal favourite happened to lady who was in my Naval unit as well as
being in the SCA - she curtsied instead of saluting an officer on parade.
Luckily he was so bemused that she didn't get in any trouble over it... <G>
>
> Cheers,
> Danielle
> --------- Original Message ---------
> ><G>  How about when you're in a mundane crowd and shout, "Huzzah!"?
> >Julie
> >
> >>> > What is it with this generation and video
> >>> > games?
> >>>
> >>You know this hobby has started to affect your mind when (in a mundane
> >location) you see a crowd of people staring at something, when you go
over
> >to find out what they're staring at >you see somebody dressed in
historical
> >costume (A lady from my SCA Barony wearing 16th century Venetian) and
look
> >straight past them still searching for what everybody is looking at. Now
> >don't tell me that's 'normal'
> >>Elizabeth
> >>
> >
> >_______________________________________________
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> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
>
> Need a new email address that people can remember
> Check out the new EudoraMail at
> http://www.eudoramail.com
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From: Janet Renzetti <celtic_dragonrider@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] weddingdress
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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All that work seems to be too cheap for the customer.  For my simpler sewing and cusomers that have a limited budget I change $10CND plus cost of materials.  Otherwise I bump it.  Materials need to come separate or you get burned, or get the customer to buy the material themselves, I give them a that option and then they pay me for my time.  I undercharge, but many people can't afford my work so I put it out, but willing to bargan when I need my closets emptied.
 
The work put out on your site, Bjarne, shows that the work isn't simple and easy and the customer needs to appeciate it.  You take a lot of care to detail.  That type of attention deserves a higher price for the goods.
 
Janet

AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:
In a message dated 6/8/2004 8:31:29 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:
agreed on making a fake replica for 3000.00 danish crowns.
Having a meeting this afternoon with the lady
I get that as $495. Is that just for your labor, or all materials, too? If 
that is the total price, labor and materials, I stand by my statement that you 
sell yourself too cheap.
Ann Wass
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---------------------------------
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snip

>PS. Bjarne, you have better quality and designs than most designers out
>there so I would say to start thinking of yourself like a designer. It might
>help others to think about you like that too! 
>
>  
>
I totally agree on this.
Dresses like the one you are making are best to compare with exclusive 
weddingdresses.
I have been to a bridal shop and saw what just normal weddingdresses 
cost and what service they give.
You make one of a kind and fitting dresses..

Greetings,
        Deredere



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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <40C42719.6050407@kabelfoon.nl>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] J.P.Ryan Robe a la francaise pattern
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 00:15:04 -0400
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Deredere,

Have you written Janice Ryan about the problem.  She really loves helping
people.  She is one of our instructors at the Costume Classroom.  She also
teaches an online class on how to make this gown and the stays.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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I can hardly wait to see the finished product.

Looking forward to more pictures. :-)

Arlys

On Tue, 8 Jun 2004 14:25:31 +0200 "Bjarne og Leif Drews"
<drewscph@post12.tele.dk> writes:
> Beautifull dress dont you think?
> She looks like a  piede of porcelaine white and read
> 
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/es3eng.htm
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jun  8 11:19:43 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] weddingdress
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Don't know what the tax situation is in Canada or Denmark, but another 
consideration for me here in the US is that, if I did sew for money, I would be 
liable for over 40% in taxes--income tax, plus both employer and employee shares 
of the Social Security tax. So that $20 an hour becomes more like $12. 

Of course, you can expense some of your gross income away, like by buying a 
new sewing machine. but not all of it,  (And then the issue would arise if you 
used the machine ONLY for business.) The IRS requires you to show a profit in 
some years or they regard your "business" as a hobby and you can't expense any 
of it!

I'm sure a number of small entrepeneurs don't report their income, but I 
believe in being honest with the government.  

Ann Wass
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jun  8 11:30:14 2004
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From: Janet Renzetti <celtic_dragonrider@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] weddingdress
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Hi Ann
 
Well I am regstered but I don't have a tax (GST) number.  I could get one, but my business woudl fall under a profitable hobby, still tax deductable.  I could charge taxes if I had a GST number and probably could without.  I don't have all the paperwork.  It is on the side anyways going around my work and kids.  A lot of the time I do a barer anyways and that won't show up for the taxes either.  Being part of the SCA, you kind of adopt that way of life among the merchants.
 
Janet

AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:
Don't know what the tax situation is in Canada or Denmark, but another 
consideration for me here in the US is that, if I did sew for money, I would be 
liable for over 40% in taxes--income tax, plus both employer and employee shares 
of the Social Security tax. So that $20 an hour becomes more like $12. 

Of course, you can expense some of your gross income away, like by buying a 
new sewing machine. but not all of it, (And then the issue would arise if you 
used the machine ONLY for business.) The IRS requires you to show a profit in 
some years or they regard your "business" as a hobby and you can't expense any 
of it!

I'm sure a number of small entrepeneurs don't report their income, but I 
believe in being honest with the government. 

Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] R.P.Ryan Robe a la francaise pattern
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Hi Deredere,

I also made up this pattern and I did have problems fitting, but I'm not
sure if it's the pattern's fault.  Making this dress just made me realize
how much these dresses really need to be draped (as they were in the
period).  I do recall having the sleeve too tight, but I think that was my
own fault for not being certain on which size I wanted to use (my arms
usually fit into a smaller size sleeve than my bodices).  I did have
problems with the bodice length, but for me it was making the bodice too
LONG rather than too short!

Anyway, if you're interested you can read my dress diary here:
http://demode.tweedlebop.com/francaise.html

I'd be happy to try to answer any specific questions you have, and I'm so
sorry about your stress!

- Kendra

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Signoffs (Was danish courtdress)
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Replied to privately.



On 6/7/04 8:53 PM, "Cheri Merideth" <celticcheri@yahoo.com> wrote:

> 
> --- Lynn Downward <LDownward@chori.org> wrote:
>> Anne, I love Stephens tag also. Your signoff is
>> lovely. Who is your quote
>> from? A book, poem, song?
>> LynnD
> 
> 
> Lynn,
> 
> Thank you.  To think you thought someone "skilled"
> wrote it. :)
> 
> I wrote that.  My 16 year old son was killed 7 years
> ago and that is where it came from.
> 
> Anne
> 
> 
> =====
> Go softly and gently for those you meet here will be
> those you know hereafter."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Friends.  Fun.  Try the all-new Yahoo! Messenger.
> http://messenger.yahoo.com/
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] weddingdress
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 08:50:37 -0700
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Hear! Hear!  (is that how you spell that?)  Don't sell yourself cheaply
Bjarne.  Considering all the hand work you do, I wonder if you couldn't sell
close to the designer price.  Maybe I am wrong, but do you suppose people
with that kind of money don't really care how much it costs and why not buy
a label with it?

You know if you keep doing this on a regular basis you may end up with a
label yourself.  Will you remember your little friends on H-cost?

As to it's being ugly:  I think it is fun...maybe not something I would
wear, but on the right person, in the right fabrics-delightful!


Sg  :)




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Shrek II
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"It's like seeing the Lady with the Unicorn (the 5 senses) tapestries in
> Gryffindor's common room in Harry Potter!"

There is also a scene in the Sorcerer's Stone where you see the famous 
portrait of Anne Boleyn briefly, hanging up in the main stair hall.

-Tiffany
Non vestimentum virum ornat, sed vir vestimentum.
*******************************
Reflections*of*Worth
http://stores.ebay.com/Reflections-of-Worth
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You see that, Bjarne, is the problem!  You don't beleieve in yourself like
the folks believe in you!!!!

I, too, don't have a designers pedigree and my friends all say I sell my
stuff for *way* too cheap.  I really don't know *what* to charge anymore
because of that.  Right now I am in the process of starting a new business
and trying to set up my pricing index and Boy!  It's hard! My reputation is
only local, as far as I know, and I feel that I really don't have much to
offer.

You, however, have a relatively well-known name (remember the museum asked
*you* to do the dress?) pretty far and wide.  You have a nifty ability to
get your stuff on your website with lots of documentation and pictures.

 I still need to learn how to do that.  And once I do, I suppose I'll do
better, I guess, if folks believe in me.

So, once you start believing in yourself, you will get better at pricing
yourself better.

Many Hugs and Many happy stitches!
Emer \ Gia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 6:20 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] weddingdress


> Ann Wass!
> This is two cheap? yes i guess you are right. I dont have
> Designers name
> Bjarne
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <AnnBWass@aol.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 3:13 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] weddingdress
>
>
> > In a message dated 6/8/2004 8:31:29 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> > drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:
> > agreed on making a fake replica for 3000.00 danish crowns.
> > Having a meeting this afternoon with the lady
> > I get that as $495. Is that just for your labor, or all materials, too?
If
> > that is the total price, labor and materials, I stand by my statement
that
> you
> > sell yourself too cheap.
> > Ann Wass
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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	<003401c44d6e$773af3b0$0302a8c0@hopperflop2>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] R.P.Ryan Robe a la francaise pattern
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So,
You have to practice like the rest uf us, and practice and practice.
Periods is a matter of love to the fashion in wich you participates into.

Bjarne



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kendra Van Cleave" <kendra@tweedlebop.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 5:37 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] R.P.Ryan Robe a la francaise pattern


> Hi Deredere,
>
> I also made up this pattern and I did have problems fitting, but I'm not
> sure if it's the pattern's fault.  Making this dress just made me realize
> how much these dresses really need to be draped (as they were in the
> period).  I do recall having the sleeve too tight, but I think that was my
> own fault for not being certain on which size I wanted to use (my arms
> usually fit into a smaller size sleeve than my bodices).  I did have
> problems with the bodice length, but for me it was making the bodice too
> LONG rather than too short!
>
> Anyway, if you're interested you can read my dress diary here:
> http://demode.tweedlebop.com/francaise.html
>
> I'd be happy to try to answer any specific questions you have, and I'm so
> sorry about your stress!
>
> - Kendra
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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Subject: [h-cost] Bjarne:  weddingdress & charging for time
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Bjarne, go to Sterling Name Tape's web site
(http://www.sterlingnametape.com) or any other tape site and order yourself
some labels!  They're easy to design.  Your work is outstanding and you
should be charging way more as everyone here agrees.  All it would take is a
couple of good sales and you could pay for an ad in any of the American or
European bridal magazines and increase your sales.  Maybe re-vamp your
website and do some search engine indexing (usually free) and you could be
on your way to being very well known.

Your creations would go easily for $5000 US.  I was just reading a price
range for wedding gowns here in the US on the Knot's website (theknot.com):

$600 or below is cheap
$601-1500 Moderate
$1501-3000 Expensive
$3001-5000 Moderately expensive
$5000+ Very expensive

I think that lady's gown was like $8000 US and your work is way better!

Let me know if you need help with the website (off list).  I adore your work
and would love to see you go further.

Becky
Oregon


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Katie Pleasance <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
Subject: [h-cost] weddingdress
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In the business world it's called 'marginal pricing', which means charge as 
much as possible without driving away so many customers that the profits go 
down. In other words, 'Charge what the market will bear.' I learned about 
marginal pricing ages ago in an intro to business class.

To a degree it is a corollary to the 'greater fool theory' -- there is 
always somebody who is willing to pay more -- you just have to find him.

Is it immoral? Some people would see it as taking advantage of the ignorant 
and some people would fall back on 'caveat emptor' - let the buyer beware.

Is it giving value for value, i.e. a fair bargain? That depends if the 
customer is satisfied with the purchase.

This is how most of the business world is run. We costume aficionados value 
craftsmanship. Unfortunately most of the world doesn't and isn't willing to 
pay for it. So they buy overpriced junk and think that they are making a 
good purchase.

As always, my opinion.

Katie

At 12:48 PM 6/8/2004 +0200, you wrote:
>Hi,
>Why does this weddingdress costs so much? can anybody tell me this?
>http://18thcenturycorsets.smugmug.com/gallery/41697/1/1464012/Large
>I know it is a designer dress, what is making it different from my designer
>historical dresses?
>My dresses are much cheaper§ :-(
>
>Bjarne




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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bjarne:  weddingdress & charging for time
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Hoho hololloooooooooooooooooooody shit

Sorry i cant participate in that,
It is a matter of the rule of:
 du skal ikke tro du er noget''''1
hvis du tror du er noget så tro om igen
the law of scandinavia
Så hvis du tror du er noget, så er der noget du har misforstået, og hvis du
trror..............----- Original Message ----- 
From: <rreed@indirectobject.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 7:27 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Bjarne: weddingdress & charging for time


> Bjarne, go to Sterling Name Tape's web site
> (http://www.sterlingnametape.com) or any other tape site and order
yourself
> some labels!  They're easy to design.  Your work is outstanding and you
> should be charging way more as everyone here agrees.  All it would take is
a
> couple of good sales and you could pay for an ad in any of the American or
> European bridal magazines and increase your sales.  Maybe re-vamp your
> website and do some search engine indexing (usually free) and you could be
> on your way to being very well known.
>
> Your creations would go easily for $5000 US.  I was just reading a price
> range for wedding gowns here in the US on the Knot's website
(theknot.com):
>
> $600 or below is cheap
> $601-1500 Moderate
> $1501-3000 Expensive
> $3001-5000 Moderately expensive
> $5000+ Very expensive
>
> I think that lady's gown was like $8000 US and your work is way better!
>
> Let me know if you need help with the website (off list).  I adore your
work
> and would love to see you go further.
>
> Becky
> Oregon
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jun  8 13:48:56 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] weddingdress
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In my words it is called "stupid people buys anything#
400 pounds sterling is a stupid buy in my wiev.
Then people has two much of an income!!!!
Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Katie Pleasance" <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 7:28 PM
Subject: [h-cost] weddingdress


> In the business world it's called 'marginal pricing', which means charge
as
> much as possible without driving away so many customers that the profits
go
> down. In other words, 'Charge what the market will bear.' I learned about
> marginal pricing ages ago in an intro to business class.
>
> To a degree it is a corollary to the 'greater fool theory' -- there is
> always somebody who is willing to pay more -- you just have to find him.
>
> Is it immoral? Some people would see it as taking advantage of the
ignorant
> and some people would fall back on 'caveat emptor' - let the buyer beware.
>
> Is it giving value for value, i.e. a fair bargain? That depends if the
> customer is satisfied with the purchase.
>
> This is how most of the business world is run. We costume aficionados
value
> craftsmanship. Unfortunately most of the world doesn't and isn't willing
to
> pay for it. So they buy overpriced junk and think that they are making a
> good purchase.
>
> As always, my opinion.
>
> Katie
>
> At 12:48 PM 6/8/2004 +0200, you wrote:
> >Hi,
> >Why does this weddingdress costs so much? can anybody tell me this?
> >http://18thcenturycorsets.smugmug.com/gallery/41697/1/1464012/Large
> >I know it is a designer dress, what is making it different from my
designer
> >historical dresses?
> >My dresses are much cheaper§ :-(
> >
> >Bjarne
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] charging for services
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One way to determine pricing is to start with a very reasonable price. For 
each following project, increase the price a bit. As time progresses, you 
will find that you are charging more than some customers can pay, but so 
long as there remain customers that are willing to pay the increased price, 
keep raising the price. Eventually, you will reach a point where the price 
drives away so many potential customers that your profits go down. At that 
point, lower your price enough to bring back some of those 'lost' 
customers. Keep the price as high as possible without making yourself so 
expensive that your net profit goes down because you are charging more than 
your customer-base is willing to pay.
This is classical 'marginal pricing' in business-speak. This is the pure 
business way of looking at pricing. It does not take into account such 
things as loss-leader sales in order to increase business volume, etc.

You might decide to charge less for certain customers. If you do so, 
remember that doing so is taking money out of your pocket. Also remember 
that if your higher-paying customers find out that you are giving 
preferential pricing, fewer people will be willing to pay the higher price 
because they will feel that they have been discriminated against.

As always, my opinion.

Katie

my friends all say I sell my
>stuff for *way* too cheap.  I really don't know *what* to charge anymore
>because of that.  Right now I am in the process of starting a new business
>and trying to set up my pricing index and Boy!  It's hard!



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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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And
Let me tell you a little thing out there in America!
I think you are spoiled people, living in big houses and letting your
government take two much participation in european and world issue.< You
love to be a police of the world, legt me tell you
We hate you over here in Europe!!!
And you are two over weight also!!

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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From: Penny Roberts <pennyrobertsho@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ot America
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Why thank you, you are too kind
but could you please arrange to get me the bigger house?
Also, my people still live overseas, both in Europe and in Asia,
so we are part of you
unless you are not human
Penny
who loves reading about costumes
and hates generalizations

Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
And
Let me tell you a little thing out there in America!
I think you are spoiled people, living in big houses and letting your
government take two much participation in european and world issue.< You
love to be a police of the world, legt me tell you
We hate you over here in Europe!!!
And you are two over weight also!!

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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ok...  now that's just a bit rude.  not that I don't agree with most of 
it... but where is the costume content??
May we please turn back to crinolines and fabric?
Mari

>And
>Let me tell you a little thing out there in America!
>I think you are spoiled people, living in big houses and letting your
>government take two much participation in european and world issue.< You
>love to be a police of the world, legt me tell you
>We hate you over here in Europe!!!
>And you are two over weight also!!
>
>Bjarne

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Yes. I think that the customer is paying for the privilege of saying, "MY 
wedding dress is an original by a famous designer who's work we see in the 
magazines. Aren't you jealous?" In other words, part of the price is for 
the dress and part is for "bragging rights". Status uber alles!

Katie

At 07:48 PM 6/8/2004 +0200, you wrote:
>In my words it is called "stupid people buys anything#
>400 pounds sterling is a stupid buy in my wiev.
>Then people has two much of an income!!!!
>Bjarne



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This reminds me of what my fiancé says about armour and the top makers in
the US. Robert MacPhearson charges about $20,000 US for a complete suit and
he keeps raising his prices so that he never gets more than he can handle.
His work is requested by museums and actually is better quality than many of
the pieces he has been asked to recreate.  

Granted a suit of armour will last a lifetime, but as costumers, many sell
their work short and do not realize the art involved in this craft. 

Kim/Kat

Katharine Devereaux in the SCA
Kimberly Hulse in the rest of my life

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Katie Pleasance
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 1:52 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] charging for services

One way to determine pricing is to start with a very reasonable price. For 
each following project, increase the price a bit. As time progresses, you 
will find that you are charging more than some customers can pay, but so 
long as there remain customers that are willing to pay the increased price, 
keep raising the price. Eventually, you will reach a point where the price 
drives away so many potential customers that your profits go down. At that 
point, lower your price enough to bring back some of those 'lost' 
customers. Keep the price as high as possible without making yourself so 
expensive that your net profit goes down because you are charging more than 
your customer-base is willing to pay.
This is classical 'marginal pricing' in business-speak. This is the pure 
business way of looking at pricing. It does not take into account such 
things as loss-leader sales in order to increase business volume, etc.

You might decide to charge less for certain customers. If you do so, 
remember that doing so is taking money out of your pocket. Also remember 
that if your higher-paying customers find out that you are giving 
preferential pricing, fewer people will be willing to pay the higher price 
because they will feel that they have been discriminated against.

As always, my opinion.

Katie

my friends all say I sell my
>stuff for *way* too cheap.  I really don't know *what* to charge anymore
>because of that.  Right now I am in the process of starting a new business
>and trying to set up my pricing index and Boy!  It's hard!



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Isn't Cutty Sark Scotch named for the ship on its label, the Cutty Sark?
That's what the ads used to say, anyway. Why the ship got that name is not
explained....Hate to think her sails were made from old shirts, especially
with lice in them, ha ha! or maybe those cuttie sarks made for soldiers in
the trenches were named after the ship, if the ship was lousy ha ha ha? ....
or was the Cutty Sark just a cutter (I don't know my sailing vessels)? This
seems to be a circular linguistic conundrum.

Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

on 6/8/04 8:58 AM, Shane & Sheridan at shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca wrote:

> Cutty Sark is also a brand of scotch.
> Not a very good one, mind you...
> 
> Sheridan :-)
> 
> From: "Bice"
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sark?
> 
> 
>> also up here (upstate ny) during WWI my great grandmother who died in 98
> of
>> the age of 98 talked of making cuttie sarks which were lice shirts for
>> soldiers in the trenches. I also saw the reference to cuttie sarks in the
>> Anne of Green Gables series book "Rilla of Ingleside" and my own
> grandmother
>> (my GG's DIL) was scotch and called shirts "sarks" she was from the Tug
> Hill
>> area born in Lafargeville.
>> 
>> Bice
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Lena Strid" <lstrid@mglarc.com>
>> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 5:24 AM
>> Subject: [h-cost] Sark?
>> 
>> 
>>> Does anyone here know what a 'sark' is? It's mentioned in a wardrobe
>> account
>>> from Mary Queen of Scots (see quote below). My only theory is that it's
> a
>>> Scottish word for chemise, considering that quite a few words in
> Northern
>>> England/Scotland have Scandinavian ancestry, and it is very similar to
> the
>>> Swedish word for chemise ('särk').
>>> 
>>> "There were five silk gowns, two others (presumably of wool since the
>>> material is not specified), three waistcoats or petticoats, a pair of
>>> sheets, eight sarks, two napkins and a kerchief, a pair of drawers
>> (calsons)
>>> two or three pairs of hose, and 'ane saiting patecleyth' (a satin
>>> head-dress)."
>>> 
>>> /Lena
>>> 
>>> 
>>> =================================================
>>> Margaret Gowen & Co. Ltd.
>>> Archaeological Consultants & Project Managers
>>> 2 Killiney View                   Tel: 01-2300433
>>> Albert Road Lower                 Fax: 01-2300865
>>> Glenageary         e-mail: archaeology@mglarc.com
>>> Co. Dublin    website: http://www.mglarc.com
>>> =================================================
>>> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ot America
From: Lynn Downward <LDownward@chori.org>
To: h costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Bjarne, what happened?
LynnD

On 6/8/04 10:52 AM, "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:

> And
> Let me tell you a little thing out there in America!
> I think you are spoiled people, living in big houses and letting your
> government take two much participation in european and world issue.< You
> love to be a police of the world, legt me tell you
> We hate you over here in Europe!!!
> And you are two over weight also!!
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Bjarne:  charging for time
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Bjarne, what were you quoting?  I don't read your language.

Anyways, why can't you charge what you are worth? I don't understand this.
I think I might be a little naive and ignorant.  So if you could explain it,
maybe it would help me understand why you think your work isn't worth the
pay you deserve.

I mean, folks *are* coming to *you*, right?  And you do not have any
advertising, right?

Emer \ Gia
Trying to get a clue....

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 10:35 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bjarne: weddingdress & charging for time


> Hoho hololloooooooooooooooooooody shit
>
> Sorry i cant participate in that,
> It is a matter of the rule of:
>  du skal ikke tro du er noget''''1
> hvis du tror du er noget så tro om igen
> the law of scandinavia
>> >
> > Your creations would go easily for $5000 US.  I was just reading a price
> > range for wedding gowns here in the US on the Knot's website
> (theknot.com):
> >
> > $600 or below is cheap
> > $601-1500 Moderate
> > $1501-3000 Expensive
> > $3001-5000 Moderately expensive
> > $5000+ Very expensive
> >
> > I think that lady's gown was like $8000 US and your work is way better!
> >
> > Let me know if you need help with the website (off list).  I adore your
> work
> > and would love to see you go further.
> >
> > Becky
> > Oregon
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Nothing happened,
I just had to tell you!
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lynn Downward" <LDownward@chori.org>
To: "h costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 8:11 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ot America


> Bjarne, what happened?
> LynnD
>
> On 6/8/04 10:52 AM, "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
wrote:
>
> > And
> > Let me tell you a little thing out there in America!
> > I think you are spoiled people, living in big houses and letting your
> > government take two much participation in european and world issue.< You
> > love to be a police of the world, legt me tell you
> > We hate you over here in Europe!!!
> > And you are two over weight also!!
> >
> > Bjarne
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Leif og Bjarne Drews
> > www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> >
> > http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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>


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From: Janet Renzetti <celtic_dragonrider@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] weddingdress
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I agree and disagree with this.  From a purely business perspective, yes this theory holds, but from a compassionate perspective it is just plain wrong.  I think somewhere in between is where you need to be.  Enough that you don't sell yourself short for the amount of work you put into it, but not gouge the customer.  A lot of work goes in, I know, I like to hnd sew trims and make my own designs and all the research, but what good is that if you make you sell your goods at an unattainable level where only the super rich can get them.  THat is unfair and unrealistic.  HOw many people actually get known to have the ability to do that?  For the stuff I do I could easily charge $20-30/hr, but I choose $10/hr because I make something for my work and those who would not be able to afford it otherwise can get the same quality.  I think it is balanced for now.  One day I might raise it, but why?  Both myself and my customer are happy with that.  I make make additional arrangements w!
 ith them
 and barter if they are interested.  I lay it out straight to them what I expect and get the same in return.  
 
My rant and take on this topic.  Maybe it is because I am Canadian and American have this myth that we are so polite and nice, maybe it is that I don't have the heart to turn down customers that need a break.  I just can't justify making a customer pay a great deal for my work, when they clearly can't afford it.
 
Janet

Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
In my words it is called "stupid people buys anything#
400 pounds sterling is a stupid buy in my wiev.
Then people has two much of an income!!!!
Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Katie Pleasance" 
To: "Historical Costume" 
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 7:28 PM
Subject: [h-cost] weddingdress


> In the business world it's called 'marginal pricing', which means charge
as
> much as possible without driving away so many customers that the profits
go
> down. In other words, 'Charge what the market will bear.' I learned about
> marginal pricing ages ago in an intro to business class.
>
> To a degree it is a corollary to the 'greater fool theory' -- there is
> always somebody who is willing to pay more -- you just have to find him.
>
> Is it immoral? Some people would see it as taking advantage of the
ignorant
> and some people would fall back on 'caveat emptor' - let the buyer beware.
>
> Is it giving value for value, i.e. a fair bargain? That depends if the
> customer is satisfied with the purchase.
>
> This is how most of the business world is run. We costume aficionados
value
> craftsmanship. Unfortunately most of the world doesn't and isn't willing
to
> pay for it. So they buy overpriced junk and think that they are making a
> good purchase.
>
> As always, my opinion.
>
> Katie
>
> At 12:48 PM 6/8/2004 +0200, you wrote:
> >Hi,
> >Why does this weddingdress costs so much? can anybody tell me this?
> >http://18thcenturycorsets.smugmug.com/gallery/41697/1/1464012/Large
> >I know it is a designer dress, what is making it different from my
designer
> >historical dresses?
> >My dresses are much cheaper§ :-(
> >
> >Bjarne
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 19:09:49 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sark?
References: <87A506E53AFF4C4CB2C565044BA209E75A6389@oldntserver.stoneage.mglarc.com>
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"Cutty Sark" as a name for scotch or the famous tea clipper, is a 
reference from Robert Burns' "Tam o'Shanter".  He comes upon a group of 
witches and warlocks dancing, and they have thrown off their clothes and 
are dancing just in their *sarks*.  One of the witches is particularly 
young and attractive and wearing a particularly short chemise, and like 
a fool he draws her attention by shouting out "well done, cutty-sark". 
She chases him and nearly catches him, but when she has his horse by the 
tail, the horse gets away over the river leaving its tail in the witch's 
hand.

The figurehead of the ship Cutty Sark is a young woman (well endowed and 
scantily dressed), reaching out to grab something.

Jean


Shane & Sheridan <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca> wrote
>Cutty Sark is also a brand of scotch.
>Not a very good one, mind you...
>
>Sheridan :-)
>
>From: "Bice"
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sark?
>
>
>> also up here (upstate ny) during WWI my great grandmother who died in 98
>of
>> the age of 98 talked of making cuttie sarks which were lice shirts for
>> soldiers in the trenches. I also saw the reference to cuttie sarks in the
>> Anne of Green Gables series book "Rilla of Ingleside" and my own
>grandmother
>> (my GG's DIL) was scotch and called shirts "sarks" she was from the Tug
>Hill
>> area born in Lafargeville.
>>
>> Bice
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Lena Strid" <lstrid@mglarc.com>
>> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 5:24 AM
>> Subject: [h-cost] Sark?
>>
>>
>> > Does anyone here know what a 'sark' is? It's mentioned in a wardrobe
>> account
>> > from Mary Queen of Scots (see quote below). My only theory is that it's
>a
>> > Scottish word for chemise, considering that quite a few words in
>Northern
>> > England/Scotland have Scandinavian ancestry, and it is very similar to
>the
>> > Swedish word for chemise ('särk').
>> >
>> > "There were five silk gowns, two others (presumably of wool since the
>> > material is not specified), three waistcoats or petticoats, a pair of
>> > sheets, eight sarks, two napkins and a kerchief, a pair of drawers
>> (calsons)
>> > two or three pairs of hose, and 'ane saiting patecleyth' (a satin
>> > head-dress)."
>> >
>> > /Lena
>> >
>> >
>> > =================================================
>> > Margaret Gowen & Co. Ltd.
>> > Archaeological Consultants & Project Managers
>> > 2 Killiney View                   Tel: 01-2300433
>> > Albert Road Lower                 Fax: 01-2300865
>> > Glenageary         e-mail: archaeology@mglarc.com
>> > Co. Dublin    website: http://www.mglarc.com
>> > =================================================
>> >
>> > CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE
>> > This email is private and confidential and may contain
>> > legally privileged information.  If you are not  named
>> > above as an addressee it may  be unlawful for  you  to
>> > read, copy, distribute, disclose or otherwise use  the
>> > information in this email. If you are not the intended
>> > recipient  of this email  please contact  our  systems
>> > administrator. Thank you.
>> >
>> > NOTE
>> > Any views or opinions  presented  are solely those  of
>> > the author  and do not  necessarily represent those of
>> > the  company  or  its  associated   companies   unless
>> > otherwise specifically stated.
>> >
>> >
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > h-costume mailing list
>> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>> >
>> _______________________________________________
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>
>
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: Cheri Merideth <celticcheri@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ot America
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Bjarne,

how can you HATE people you don't even know?

Anne 

--- Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
wrote:
> And
> Let me tell you a little thing out there in America!
> I think you are spoiled people, living in big houses
> and letting your
> government take two much participation in european
> and world issue.< You
> love to be a police of the world, legt me tell you
> We hate you over here in Europe!!!
> And you are two over weight also!!
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


=====
Go softly and gently for those you meet here will be
those you know hereafter."


	
		
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Well,

It's definitely a lousy scotch.  :-)

Sheridan


----- Original Message -----
From: "ruthanne baumgartner" <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 2:08 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sark?


> Isn't Cutty Sark Scotch named for the ship on its label, the Cutty Sark?
> That's what the ads used to say, anyway. Why the ship got that name is not
> explained....Hate to think her sails were made from old shirts, especially
> with lice in them, ha ha! or maybe those cuttie sarks made for soldiers in
> the trenches were named after the ship, if the ship was lousy ha ha ha?
....
> or was the Cutty Sark just a cutter (I don't know my sailing vessels)?
This
> seems to be a circular linguistic conundrum.
>
> Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
>
> on 6/8/04 8:58 AM, Shane & Sheridan at shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca
wrote:
>
> > Cutty Sark is also a brand of scotch.
> > Not a very good one, mind you...
> >
> > Sheridan :-)
> >
> > From: "Bice"
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sark?
> >
> >
> >> also up here (upstate ny) during WWI my great grandmother who died in
98
> > of
> >> the age of 98 talked of making cuttie sarks which were lice shirts for
> >> soldiers in the trenches. I also saw the reference to cuttie sarks in
the
> >> Anne of Green Gables series book "Rilla of Ingleside" and my own
> > grandmother
> >> (my GG's DIL) was scotch and called shirts "sarks" she was from the Tug
> > Hill
> >> area born in Lafargeville.
> >>
> >> Bice
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: "Lena Strid" <lstrid@mglarc.com>
> >> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> >> Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 5:24 AM
> >> Subject: [h-cost] Sark?
> >>
> >>
> >>> Does anyone here know what a 'sark' is? It's mentioned in a wardrobe
> >> account
> >>> from Mary Queen of Scots (see quote below). My only theory is that
it's
> > a
> >>> Scottish word for chemise, considering that quite a few words in
> > Northern
> >>> England/Scotland have Scandinavian ancestry, and it is very similar to
> > the
> >>> Swedish word for chemise ('särk').
> >>>
> >>> "There were five silk gowns, two others (presumably of wool since the
> >>> material is not specified), three waistcoats or petticoats, a pair of
> >>> sheets, eight sarks, two napkins and a kerchief, a pair of drawers
> >> (calsons)
> >>> two or three pairs of hose, and 'ane saiting patecleyth' (a satin
> >>> head-dress)."
> >>>
> >>> /Lena
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> =================================================
> >>> Margaret Gowen & Co. Ltd.
> >>> Archaeological Consultants & Project Managers
> >>> 2 Killiney View                   Tel: 01-2300433
> >>> Albert Road Lower                 Fax: 01-2300865
> >>> Glenageary         e-mail: archaeology@mglarc.com
> >>> Co. Dublin    website: http://www.mglarc.com
> >>> =================================================
> >>>
> >>> CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE
> >>> This email is private and confidential and may contain
> >>> legally privileged information.  If you are not  named
> >>> above as an addressee it may  be unlawful for  you  to
> >>> read, copy, distribute, disclose or otherwise use  the
> >>> information in this email. If you are not the intended
> >>> recipient  of this email  please contact  our  systems
> >>> administrator. Thank you.
> >>>
> >>> NOTE
> >>> Any views or opinions  presented  are solely those  of
> >>> the author  and do not  necessarily represent those of
> >>> the  company  or  its  associated   companies   unless
> >>> otherwise specifically stated.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> _______________________________________________
> >>> h-costume mailing list
> >>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >>>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> h-costume mailing list
> >> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >
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> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
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From: "Gia" <gia_gavino@comcast.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <007201c44d81$54614fc0$4096fea9@CPQ21932199711>
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 11:28:17 -0700
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Subject: [h-cost] OT america...huh?
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Um really?  I would like to order one of those bigger houses, please; and
also, I'd like to make more than minimum wage so I can pay my bills.  That's
all I ask for.

We, here on this list, are *not the UW government* and most likely just as
disgusted and angry at our own government as well.  Maybe not everyone, but
I don't know of anyone who isn't; but that's my own personal experience.

But then again, I saw the documentary about the genocide in Rwanda and how
much the US was blamed for NOT doing something to same the hundreds of
Thousands that were massacred.  Of course, the government was trying to NOT
get involved in something that was not it's business...

And well, I am really sad...I *TRULY* believe in you and while I don't think
you should charge some of the more astronomical prices, couldn't you just be
more realistic about how much you *ARE* worth?

Isn't that what friends do, help their friends think better of themselves?

Emer \ Gia
sadly trying to understand....
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 10:52 AM
Subject: [h-cost] ot America


> And
> Let me tell you a little thing out there in America!
> I think you are spoiled people, living in big houses and letting your
> government take two much participation in european and world issue.< You
> love to be a police of the world, legt me tell you
> We hate you over here in Europe!!!
> And you are two over weight also!!
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jun  8 14:34:10 2004
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Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2004 11:30:49 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Katie Pleasance <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sark?
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The ship named the Cutty Sark was an extremely fast 'tea cutter' (a ship 
designed for hauling tea from India to Britain). The Cutty Sark gained fame 
for being the first to deliver a particular season's tea to London, beating 
all the competition and making a fortune for all involved because the first 
tea of the season demanded a much higher price per pound than the tea that 
came on ships that arrived later.

The Cutty Sark was owned by a Scotsman and at it's 'truck' (the highest 
point of the tallest mast) had a metal silhouette of a Cutty Sark (a cut 
[short] shirt). So -- the ship was named for the ship-owners emblem - a 
cutty sark (a short chemise). The booze was named after the famous ship.

Sark is also the name of a Scottish island, famous for it's liquor 
Therefore, the name of the Scotch alcohol could have been a pun on island 
name (island famous for it's alcohol/ garment description (famous ship). I 
have nothing to substantiate this assertion, but it makes a colorful story 
even if it isn't true.

Katie

At 02:08 PM 6/8/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>Isn't Cutty Sark Scotch named for the ship on its label, the Cutty Sark?
>That's what the ads used to say, anyway. Why the ship got that name is not
>explained....Hate to think her sails were made from old shirts, especially
>with lice in them, ha ha! or maybe those cuttie sarks made for soldiers in
>the trenches were named after the ship, if the ship was lousy ha ha ha? ....
>or was the Cutty Sark just a cutter (I don't know my sailing vessels)? This
>seems to be a circular linguistic conundrum.
>Ruth Anne Baumgartner



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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jun  8 14:35:49 2004
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20040608181930.28502.qmail@web51108.mail.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ot America
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 20:35:14 +0200
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I have seen your leaders so many times Reagan Bush, not the least Bush
................
I can understand that you hate the people who teared down your towers, but
now we hear that your police people beats the Guantanamo people,. We have a
danish citisent who was  beaten by American  POLICE
i just want to tell you over there that you have to ease down here; we dont
want you to spoil things here!
bjarne _ who should have kept his mouth shot!!
----- Origil Message ----- 
From: "Cheri Merideth" <celticcheri@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 8:19 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ot America


> Bjarne,
>
> how can you HATE people you don't even know?
>
> Anne
>
> --- Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> wrote:
> > And
> > Let me tell you a little thing out there in America!
> > I think you are spoiled people, living in big houses
> > and letting your
> > government take two much participation in european
> > and world issue.< You
> > love to be a police of the world, legt me tell you
> > We hate you over here in Europe!!!
> > And you are two over weight also!!
> >
> > Bjarne
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Leif og Bjarne Drews
> > www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> >
> > http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> =====
> Go softly and gently for those you meet here will be
> those you know hereafter."
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Friends.  Fun.  Try the all-new Yahoo! Messenger.
> http://messenger.yahoo.com/
> _______________________________________________
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>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] charging for services
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HI Katie!

Hmmm...the idea is interesting.  But, well, it is more important to know
where folks are financially.  I know *MANY* of my friends, and their friends
too, that have been laid off, injured on the job (and thus on L&I) or just
financially hurting.

So, while my friends say I'm not charging enough, I have no reason to not
believe them.  But then I think, where would my customers and potential
customers get the money to pay what I may be worth?  And besides, I'd be
selling only locally; I have paid attention to the financial picture of
those who (demographically speaking) would be interested in my work.  They
could not afford what has been suggested to me by my friends.

So, I am stuck not knowing what the heck I should charge.  As I said, I'm
starting up my business, so I am having to reassess the situation
drastically.  I'll do an evaluation of your suggestion (from your business
classes; thank you for sharing them!!) along with the other suggestions I've
already received.

Hugs and many happy stitches.

Emer \ Gia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Katie Pleasance" <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 10:51 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] charging for services


> One way to determine pricing is to start with a very reasonable price. For
> each following project, increase the price a bit. As time progresses, you
> will find that you are charging more than some customers can pay, but so
> long as there remain customers that are willing to pay the increased
price,
> keep raising the price. Eventually, you will reach a point where the price
> drives away so many potential customers that your profits go down. At that
> point, lower your price enough to bring back some of those 'lost'
> customers. Keep the price as high as possible without making yourself so
> expensive that your net profit goes down because you are charging more
than
> your customer-base is willing to pay.
> This is classical 'marginal pricing' in business-speak. This is the pure
> business way of looking at pricing. It does not take into account such
> things as loss-leader sales in order to increase business volume, etc.
>
> You might decide to charge less for certain customers. If you do so,
> remember that doing so is taking money out of your pocket. Also remember
> that if your higher-paying customers find out that you are giving
> preferential pricing, fewer people will be willing to pay the higher price
> because they will feel that they have been discriminated against.
>
> As always, my opinion.
>
> Katie


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Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2004 11:38:34 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Katie Pleasance <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] weddingdress
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We all have a pricing level that we are comfortable with.

Corporations rarely agree with your set of values and *will* charge what 
the market will bear -- as well as selling products of dubious quality for 
more than an 'educated' person would be willing to pay. Sometimes that 
extra price is worth it because of convenience or some other intangible.

On the other side of the situation -- there are people who will take 
advantage of what they see as your gullibility and naivete for charging so 
little.

In the end, everybody decides what their time is worth in money according 
to their own values.

Katie, who neither supports nor criticizes marginal pricing but merely 
reports how to get the maximum monetary profit -- if that is your personal 
goal.

Katie



At 02:16 PM 6/8/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>I agree and disagree with this.  From a purely business perspective, yes 
>this theory holds, but from a compassionate perspective it is just plain 
>wrong.  I think somewhere in between is where you need to be.  Enough that 
>you don't sell yourself short for the amount of work you put into it, but 
>not gouge the customer.  A lot of work goes in, I know, I like to hnd sew 
>trims and make my own designs and all the research, but what good is that 
>if you make you sell your goods at an unattainable level where only the 
>super rich can get them.  THat is unfair and unrealistic.  HOw many people 
>actually get known to have the ability to do that?  For the stuff I do I 
>could easily charge $20-30/hr, but I choose $10/hr because I make 
>something for my work and those who would not be able to afford it 
>otherwise can get the same quality.  I think it is balanced for now.  One 
>day I might raise it, but why?  Both myself and my customer are happy with 
>that.  I make make additional arrangements w!
>  ith them  and barter if they are interested.  I lay it out straight to 
> them what I expect and get the same in return.
>
>My rant and take on this topic.  Maybe it is because I am Canadian and 
>American have this myth that we are so polite and nice, maybe it is that I 
>don't have the heart to turn down customers that need a break.  I just 
>can't justify making a customer pay a great deal for my work, when they 
>clearly can't afford it.
>
>Janet



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Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2004 11:41:20 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Katie Pleasance <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sark?
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Ah, your information fits in quite well with mine. I remember seeing the 
metal shirt on the masthead. You remember other things ... together, it 
makes a good story ...

(and so long as we keep returning to the chemise, it stays on topic <g>.)

Katie

At 07:09 PM 6/8/2004 +0100, you wrote:
>"Cutty Sark" as a name for scotch or the famous tea clipper, is a 
>reference from Robert Burns' "Tam o'Shanter".  He comes upon a group of 
>witches and warlocks dancing, and they have thrown off their clothes and 
>are dancing just in their *sarks*.  One of the witches is particularly 
>young and attractive and wearing a particularly short chemise, and like a 
>fool he draws her attention by shouting out "well done, cutty-sark". She 
>chases him and nearly catches him, but when she has his horse by the tail, 
>the horse gets away over the river leaving its tail in the witch's hand.
>
>The figurehead of the ship Cutty Sark is a young woman (well endowed and 
>scantily dressed), reaching out to grab something.
>Jean



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Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 14:43:48 -0400 (EDT)
From: Janet Renzetti <celtic_dragonrider@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ot America
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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One country would have put themselve in the position that the US has.  It is a tough place to be.  THey have been elected, whether they have or others pushed them to be unwittingly, to be the police of the world for now.  THey are the ones that step in.  We here in Canada don't always agree witht hem, but someone needs to step in for those that can't defend themselves, like there in the middle East where the people were being slaughter by their own government.  Unfortunately those who try to do the right thing which it doesn't always end up being, get in trouble no matter what.  On a less mature note, look at super heroes, they get persecuted in the comics as well for trying to help others only because of their super power.  
 
On a personal level.  I find a lot of Americans to be loud and rude(not all, I know many whoa re very nice and would do anything for you), but they are the first ones to put their life on the line as a country.  Here in Canada, we don't have much that resembles a military force and can pretty much act as cheerl leaders or the clean up crew.
 
My 2 cents worth.
 
Janet

Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
I have seen your leaders so many times Reagan Bush, not the least Bush
................
I can understand that you hate the people who teared down your towers, but
now we hear that your police people beats the Guantanamo people,. We have a
danish citisent who was beaten by American POLICE
i just want to tell you over there that you have to ease down here; we dont
want you to spoil things here!
bjarne _ who should have kept his mouth shot!!
----- Origil Message ----- 
From: "Cheri Merideth" 
To: "Historical Costume" 
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 8:19 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ot America


> Bjarne,
>
> how can you HATE people you don't even know?
>
> Anne
>
> --- Bjarne og Leif Drews 
> wrote:
> > And
> > Let me tell you a little thing out there in America!
> > I think you are spoiled people, living in big houses
> > and letting your
> > government take two much participation in european
> > and world issue.< You
> > love to be a police of the world, legt me tell you
> > We hate you over here in Europe!!!
> > And you are two over weight also!!
> >
> > Bjarne
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Leif og Bjarne Drews
> > www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> >
> > http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> =====
> Go softly and gently for those you meet here will be
> those you know hereafter."
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________
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From: Janet Renzetti <celtic_dragonrider@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] weddingdress
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I agree with you and your statements.  The general market enjoys competing wiht each other for the highest bidder it seems.  My amrket is quieter and for select people and I feel anything less would be them taking advantage of me unless they have somehting to offer in a barter.  If they wish to pay me more or they have means that would allow them to do so, I would not feel guilty in the higher price, but this where I am comfortable and this is where I will stay.
 
Janet

Katie Pleasance <Katie@katiesorchids.com> wrote:
We all have a pricing level that we are comfortable with.

Corporations rarely agree with your set of values and *will* charge what 
the market will bear -- as well as selling products of dubious quality for 
more than an 'educated' person would be willing to pay. Sometimes that 
extra price is worth it because of convenience or some other intangible.

On the other side of the situation -- there are people who will take 
advantage of what they see as your gullibility and naivete for charging so 
little.

In the end, everybody decides what their time is worth in money according 
to their own values.

Katie, who neither supports nor criticizes marginal pricing but merely 
reports how to get the maximum monetary profit -- if that is your personal 
goal.

Katie



At 02:16 PM 6/8/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>I agree and disagree with this. From a purely business perspective, yes 
>this theory holds, but from a compassionate perspective it is just plain 
>wrong. I think somewhere in between is where you need to be. Enough that 
>you don't sell yourself short for the amount of work you put into it, but 
>not gouge the customer. A lot of work goes in, I know, I like to hnd sew 
>trims and make my own designs and all the research, but what good is that 
>if you make you sell your goods at an unattainable level where only the 
>super rich can get them. THat is unfair and unrealistic. HOw many people 
>actually get known to have the ability to do that? For the stuff I do I 
>could easily charge $20-30/hr, but I choose $10/hr because I make 
>something for my work and those who would not be able to afford it 
>otherwise can get the same quality. I think it is balanced for now. One 
>day I might raise it, but why? Both myself and my customer are happy with 
>that. I make make additional arrangements w!
> ith them and barter if they are interested. I lay it out straight to 
> them what I expect and get the same in return.
>
>My rant and take on this topic. Maybe it is because I am Canadian and 
>American have this myth that we are so polite and nice, maybe it is that I 
>don't have the heart to turn down customers that need a break. I just 
>can't justify making a customer pay a great deal for my work, when they 
>clearly can't afford it.
>
>Janet



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From: Cheri Merideth <celticcheri@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ot America
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Your hate is one sided, let me assure you.

We, of middle and lower income, don't hate you or the
poeples of ANY other country.  We care about everyone
on this earth of ours.

God help you with this one, 
Anne


--- Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
wrote:
> And
> Let me tell you a little thing out there in America!
> I think you are spoiled people, living in big houses
> and letting your
> government take two much participation in european
> and world issue.< You
> love to be a police of the world, legt me tell you
> We hate you over here in Europe!!!
> And you are two over weight also!!
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


=====
Go softly and gently for those you meet here will be
those you know hereafter."


	
		
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From: Janet Renzetti <celtic_dragonrider@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] charging for services
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Not knowing American finances, I would be of little help other than myself and others that I know charge about $10-20 CND/hr for our time and the rest is individual decisions.  THese people that I talk to are from the SCA and many people in the SCA are not rich and so costs need to remain down.  I am not affiliated yet with film or theater for costuming and that again would change my price.  THere are also ready made costumes and custom made (both categories are yous not store bought reference) that need to be considered.  THe price tage can be a bit higher or lower for ready made and custom made can be set per hour or per item (eg. type of sleeve, skirt, etc) that is used.  YOu are in control, most important thing is how much do you need to be paid for it to be worth your time and happiness.  A higher price could mean that it isn't a profitable hobby anymore and you start to loose you enjoyment or a higher pirce could mean that youa re earning your fun.  I like the barterin!
 g too.  I
 think it is because I am one of those weird women that enjoy negotiating and seeing what I can get, but still feel it is fair.
Just enjoy it and use that to guide you.  I know many woudl disagree with that statement, but it is your drive in the end.
 
Janet

Gia <gia_gavino@comcast.net> wrote:
HI Katie!

Hmmm...the idea is interesting. But, well, it is more important to know
where folks are financially. I know *MANY* of my friends, and their friends
too, that have been laid off, injured on the job (and thus on L&I) or just
financially hurting.

So, while my friends say I'm not charging enough, I have no reason to not
believe them. But then I think, where would my customers and potential
customers get the money to pay what I may be worth? And besides, I'd be
selling only locally; I have paid attention to the financial picture of
those who (demographically speaking) would be interested in my work. They
could not afford what has been suggested to me by my friends.

So, I am stuck not knowing what the heck I should charge. As I said, I'm
starting up my business, so I am having to reassess the situation
drastically. I'll do an evaluation of your suggestion (from your business
classes; thank you for sharing them!!) along with the other suggestions I've
already received.

Hugs and many happy stitches.

Emer \ Gia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Katie Pleasance" 
To: "Historical Costume" 
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 10:51 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] charging for services


> One way to determine pricing is to start with a very reasonable price. For
> each following project, increase the price a bit. As time progresses, you
> will find that you are charging more than some customers can pay, but so
> long as there remain customers that are willing to pay the increased
price,
> keep raising the price. Eventually, you will reach a point where the price
> drives away so many potential customers that your profits go down. At that
> point, lower your price enough to bring back some of those 'lost'
> customers. Keep the price as high as possible without making yourself so
> expensive that your net profit goes down because you are charging more
than
> your customer-base is willing to pay.
> This is classical 'marginal pricing' in business-speak. This is the pure
> business way of looking at pricing. It does not take into account such
> things as loss-leader sales in order to increase business volume, etc.
>
> You might decide to charge less for certain customers. If you do so,
> remember that doing so is taking money out of your pocket. Also remember
> that if your higher-paying customers find out that you are giving
> preferential pricing, fewer people will be willing to pay the higher price
> because they will feel that they have been discriminated against.
>
> As always, my opinion.
>
> Katie


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    Cutty Sark was a famous tea clipper which was nigh unto unbeatable but
for when she came upon some bad luck in a race against the famed
Thermopylae. (Incidentally, I wrote a short story - an alternate history -
about that famed raced which was published in On Spec Magazine.)

    Cutty Sark was named for the short shirt the sea witch, Nanny, wore.

Regards
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage
fine hand-sewn embroidered garments, historical sewing patterns & embroidery
supplies
(519) 799-5577, http://www.5rivers.org  email: info@5rivers.org

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Status: RO

    Charging what your work is worth can work both ways, actually. I sell my
hand-sewn linen shirts, which take me three days to make, for $250.00CDN,
and can't sell them. Given there's 24 hours of work in them, that's not
exactly great wages, nor does it include the cost of the excellent quality
linen I use.

    Same goes with the reproduction embroidered garments I make. For
example, there is a reproduction 1790 gentleman's waistcoat I've been trying
to sell forever, even on Ebay, with no joy. There's 44 hours of work in the
embroidery, 12 in the hand-sewing. the front is on green wool/silk, and
lined and backed with excellent quality linen. Still hasn't sold. The
comment I get often is: Oh, I could make that. My response is: Sure, then go
ahead. Of course, I don't have a designer behind the name on my label.

    So sure, charge what the item is worth, but remember you may not exactly
have customers pounding on your door.

Regards
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage
fine hand-sewn embroidered garments, historical sewing patterns & embroidery
supplies
(519) 799-5577, http://www.5rivers.org  email: info@5rivers.org

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Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2004 11:55:45 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ot America
From: Lynn Downward <LDownward@chori.org>
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Status: RO

Bjarne,
Many of us feel the exact same way you do about our government. Just when we
think we have a leader who believes in people around the world - one people
- like Jimmy Carter who won a NOBEL PEACE PRIZE for his work, for God's
sake, we end up with someone like Ronny Reagen, who erased all Carter's good
work and moved us so far right that it took years to recover. Then we got
the father-son comedy team of the Bushes, who don't believe in world peace,
just oil money for the US, and what happens. Warm, wonderful people like
Bjarne dislike us.

I rent an apartment too small for my husband, two children, me and our
hobbies, but that's all we can afford. I think we're the majority. But as
long as Bushes run the country and tax the middle-class and give the rich
tax benefits, we will continue to pay for the wars we don't believe in.

Costume comment: as our hated governor and president, Ron Reagen sure did
wear well-fitted 20thC suits. And his wife's presidential gowns are in one
national museum or another back east.

LynnD
Hating herself for ranting politics online



On 6/8/04 11:35 AM, "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:

> I have seen your leaders so many times Reagan Bush, not the least Bush
> ................
> I can understand that you hate the people who teared down your towers, but
> now we hear that your police people beats the Guantanamo people,. We have a
> danish citisent who was  beaten by American  POLICE
> i just want to tell you over there that you have to ease down here; we dont
> want you to spoil things here!
> bjarne _ who should have kept his mouth shot!!
> ----- Origil Message -----
> From: "Cheri Merideth" <celticcheri@yahoo.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 8:19 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] ot America
> 
> 
>> Bjarne,
>> 
>> how can you HATE people you don't even know?
>> 
>> Anne
>> 
>> --- Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>> wrote:
>>> And
>>> Let me tell you a little thing out there in America!
>>> I think you are spoiled people, living in big houses
>>> and letting your
>>> government take two much participation in european
>>> and world issue.< You
>>> love to be a police of the world, legt me tell you
>>> We hate you over here in Europe!!!
>>> And you are two over weight also!!
>>> 
>>> Bjarne
>>> 

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From: Michelle Plumb <mplumb@wideopenwest.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ot America
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 15:09:11 -0400
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That's not fair, Bjarne.

Lots of us aren't loud or obnoxious, don't live in big houses or "allow" our 
government to run roughshod over the rest of the world.

It's just not fair to assume the whole country behaves like a select few.
Michelle

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From: Cheri Merideth <celticcheri@yahoo.com>
Subject: [h-cost] Anyway................
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hollo everyone,

I have been thinking about making the dress in this
painting (crossing fingers this takes you there)

http:/homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/secondflor/secflor25.html

It's Moretto:Portrait of a Yound Woman, 1540's Venice

Nice dress, huh?  I'm wondering about the bodice. 
Maybe stays and buckram to hold the front up and where
it belongs?  And do you think the bodice is attached
to the skirt or no?

In service,
Anne

=====
Go softly and gently for those you meet here will be
those you know hereafter."


	
		
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jun  8 15:17:57 2004
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From: "Gia" <gia_gavino@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ot America..back on costuming, please?
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 12:17:11 -0700
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Bjarne....well, I don't think you should have kept your mouth shut...
Maybe could have gotten things off your chest to us (we are your efriends, I
think) a little better...

We *do* want to hear what you think and feel...but maybe not generalize all
of us as the baddies?

I mean, not all Germans were followers of Hitler or members of SS, right?

One of the things I noticed over the years of my research that anytime there
is a major war, the fashions tend to adopt some of the military aspects of
the day.  For example, the Landshneckt (spelling?) started the fashion for
slashing perfectly good garments of the day.  There are others that I can't
bring to mind right now.  I seem to vaguely recall that there were
militarily influenced garments in English fashions several times.  Was there
during the Elizabethan, Victorian, Regency eras?

I'd like to learn more about those periods and some suggestions for required
reading a web searching.

In happy stitches,

Emer \ Gia
just wanting to
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 11:35 AM
> bjarne _ who should have kept his mouth shot!!


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ot America
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In a message dated 6/8/2004 2:35:16 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

> I have seen your leaders so many times Reagan Bush, not the least Bush
> 

So if Denmark [isn't that where you are?] were remotely a super power, they 
would be perfect?

Don't blame Americans for current screw ups. This administration is unelected 
and not a voice of the majority.

As an American, I think the biggest general problem over here is ignorance. 
It's even uncool to know stuff....unless it's about sports. Even super 
religious folks know little about their religion and nothing about anyone else's. No 
one knows any history. Bush II and his friends are the triumph of 
anti-intellectualism. This is what you get when you don't know anything. It's an 
embarrassing disaster.
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Subject: [h-cost] Ideas for charging for services
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Hi!  I like bartering too.  It's still required to be reported for income
(IRS Sucks), but it's more fun (I think).  I've gotten some really cool
services and stuff by doing this.  For example, I got many hours from a guy
friend of mine to help me move my stuff- twice!  In return, I am getting to
make some really cool italian ren SCA costumes for him.

It's a wonderful way to get my 'work' out there in a different strata of
folks than I usually get to see.

So it all balances out in the end.  I've still got your from your business
class ideas on my mind, so I'll (hopefully) come up with a nice average for
the typical folks.  I've got another friend looking into the local theaters
for me, for 'networking'.
Happy stitches to all!

Emer \ Gia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Janet Renzetti" <celtic_dragonrider@yahoo.ca>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 11:54 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] charging for services


>to loose you enjoyment or a higher pirce could mean that youa re earning
your fun.  I like the barterin!
>  g too.  I
>  think it is because I am one of those weird women that enjoy negotiating
and seeing what I can get, but still feel it is fair.
> Just enjoy it and use that to guide you.  I know many woudl disagree with
that statement, but it is your drive in the end.
>
> Janet
>
> Gia <gia_gavino@comcast.net> wrote:
> HI Katie!
>
> Hmmm...the idea is interesting. But, well, it is more important to know
> where folks are financially. I know *MANY* of my friends, and their
friends
> too, that have been laid off, injured on the job (and thus on L&I) or just
> financially hurting.
>
> So, while my friends say I'm not charging enough, I have no reason to not
> believe them. But then I think, where would my customers and potential
> customers get the money to pay what I may be worth? And besides, I'd be
> selling only locally; I have paid attention to the financial picture of
> those who (demographically speaking) would be interested in my work. They
> could not afford what has been suggested to me by my friends.
>
> So, I am stuck not knowing what the heck I should charge. As I said, I'm
> starting up my business, so I am having to reassess the situation
> drastically. I'll do an evaluation of your suggestion (from your business
> classes; thank you for sharing them!!) along with the other suggestions
I've
> already received.
>
> Hugs and many happy stitches.
>
> Emer \ Gia
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Katie Pleasance"
> To: "Historical Costume"
> Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 10:51 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] charging for services
>
>
> > One way to determine pricing is to start with a very reasonable price.
For
> > each following project, increase the price a bit. As time progresses,
you
> > will find that you are charging more than some customers can pay, but so
> > long as there remain customers that are willing to pay the increased
> price,
> > keep raising the price. Eventually, you will reach a point where the
price
> > drives away so many potential customers that your profits go down. At
that
> > point, lower your price enough to bring back some of those 'lost'
> > customers. Keep the price as high as possible without making yourself so
> > expensive that your net profit goes down because you are charging more
> than
> > your customer-base is willing to pay.
> > This is classical 'marginal pricing' in business-speak. This is the pure
> > business way of looking at pricing. It does not take into account such
> > things as loss-leader sales in order to increase business volume, etc.
> >
> > You might decide to charge less for certain customers. If you do so,
> > remember that doing so is taking money out of your pocket. Also remember
> > that if your higher-paying customers find out that you are giving
> > preferential pricing, fewer people will be willing to pay the higher
price
> > because they will feel that they have been discriminated against.
> >
> > As always, my opinion.
> >
> > Katie
>
>
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>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: weddingdress
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Ann Wass wrote:
> 
> Don't know what the tax situation is in Canada or
> Denmark, but another 
> consideration for me here in the US is that, if I
> did sew for money, I would be 
> liable for over 40% in taxes--income tax, plus both
> employer and employee shares 
> of the Social Security tax. So that $20 an hour
> becomes more like $12. 
> 
> Of course, you can expense some of your gross income
> away, like by buying a 
> new sewing machine. but not all of it,  (And then
> the issue would arise if you 
> used the machine ONLY for business.) The IRS
> requires you to show a profit in 
> some years or they regard your "business" as a hobby
> and you can't expense any 
> of it!
> 
> I'm sure a number of small entrepeneurs don't report
> their income, but I 
> believe in being honest with the government.  

Actually, in the United States, as the owner of a
service business organized as a sole proprietorship
(meaning there aren't any employees beyond the owner),
you do not have to pay Social Security tax. You do,
however, have to declare any income made over the
expenses of the business, and pay taxes (at regular
tax rates) on said income; this can range from
approximately 15-30%. The IRS and most states (as the
income must also be declared on state income taxes,
but check with your state or your tax person) require
that a "business" show a profit 3 years after
establishment, or it is considered a "hobby": the
difference being that you must still declare the
income, but can't deduct the expenses for said
"hobby."

The advice I have received from a CPA friend with
background in these matters is to not establish it as
a business until such time as you might be listed as
an "expense" by another business. An example of this
might be if you get a commission to do a bunch of
costume pieces for a "for profit" theatrical company
or costume company.

Of course, talk to a tax professional as they can give
you the most up-to-date information for your locale.

Dawn

=====
Dawn Jacobson
Vallejo, CA, USA

Clothes are just the costumes we wear every day.
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From: purplkat@optonline.net
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Anyway................
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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you need to pu 2 /'s in the URL to make most systems turn it into a clickable link.

Katheryne

try this one

http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/secondflor/secflor25.html


----- Original Message -----
From: Cheri Merideth <celticcheri@yahoo.com>
Date: Tuesday, June 8, 2004 3:11 pm
Subject: [h-cost] Anyway................

> 
> Hollo everyone,
> 
> I have been thinking about making the dress in this
> painting (crossing fingers this takes you there)
> 
> http:/homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/secondflor/secflor25.html
> 
> It's Moretto:Portrait of a Yound Woman, 1540's Venice
> 
> Nice dress, huh?  I'm wondering about the bodice. 
> Maybe stays and buckram to hold the front up and where
> it belongs?  And do you think the bodice is attached
> to the skirt or no?
> 
> In service,
> Anne
> 
> =====
> Go softly and gently for those you meet here will be
> those you know hereafter."
> 
> 
> 	
>        	
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Friends.  Fun.  Try the all-new Yahoo! Messenger.
> http://messenger.yahoo.com/ 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ot America
Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2004 19:32:54 +0000
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Lynn, I'm with you on this one.  as American people yes we get to elect our government, BUT we also are stuck dealing with whatever crap has once again surfaced that is willing to do the job. We vote yes, but how many vote uninformed or from the hype our media force feeds us. The answer is too many.  What can we do to change this?  Keep trying.

We currently live in a country were the rich get richer the poor get poorer and the middle class are starting to slide down.  The world as a whole see us as a decadent people who live in constant luxury without seeing that those help us as such are the "lucky" few.

We are hated becasue we tend to be the first and most vocal or visible on the site of a military problem but no one wants to remember we also tend to be the first on site of a disaster any where in the world as well offering assistance with no thought of recompense.   We still as a country fill the idea on  the statue of liberty that states " send us your poor, your down trodden your tired masses" and our government supports them shorting our own citizen to give them a chance and when we step up security to try and protect ourselves we are being hyper sensitive.

Bjarne I'm saddened that you can so generally hate a country's people based on the actions of a minority.  We as citizens struggle with it as well and are just as appalled.

I extend my hand in friendship over a common love of history and recreating the beauty of the garments we each create and the beauty of ideas and  information shared freely accros borders in an effort to advance that same idea.

I hate politics as much as anyone else and I disturbed that a group such as this could have lines drawn between them by such things.

Costume content:  Want ot see a return of teh medievel ability to determine class by clothing?  Watch American fashions for the next 5 years unless things change.

Molly




> Bjarne,
> Many of us feel the exact same way you do about our government. Just when we
> think we have a leader who believes in people around the world - one people
> - like Jimmy Carter who won a NOBEL PEACE PRIZE for his work, for God's
> sake, we end up with someone like Ronny Reagen, who erased all Carter's good
> work and moved us so far right that it took years to recover. Then we got
> the father-son comedy team of the Bushes, who don't believe in world peace,
> just oil money for the US, and what happens. Warm, wonderful people like
> Bjarne dislike us.
> 
> I rent an apartment too small for my husband, two children, me and our
> hobbies, but that's all we can afford. I think we're the majority. But as
> long as Bushes run the country and tax the middle-class and give the rich
> tax benefits, we will continue to pay for the wars we don't believe in.
> 
> Costume comment: as our hated governor and president, Ron Reagen sure did
> wear well-fitted 20thC suits. And his wife's presidential gowns are in one
> national museum or another back east.
> 
> LynnD
> Hating herself for ranting politics online
> 
> 
> 
> On 6/8/04 11:35 AM, "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
> 
> > I have seen your leaders so many times Reagan Bush, not the least Bush
> > ................
> > I can understand that you hate the people who teared down your towers, but
> > now we hear that your police people beats the Guantanamo people,. We have a
> > danish citisent who was  beaten by American  POLICE
> > i just want to tell you over there that you have to ease down here; we dont
> > want you to spoil things here!
> > bjarne _ who should have kept his mouth shot!!
> > ----- Origil Message -----
> > From: "Cheri Merideth" <celticcheri@yahoo.com>
> > To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 8:19 PM
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] ot America
> > 
> > 
> >> Bjarne,
> >> 
> >> how can you HATE people you don't even know?
> >> 
> >> Anne
> >> 
> >> --- Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> >> wrote:
> >>> And
> >>> Let me tell you a little thing out there in America!
> >>> I think you are spoiled people, living in big houses
> >>> and letting your
> >>> government take two much participation in european
> >>> and world issue.< You
> >>> love to be a police of the world, legt me tell you
> >>> We hate you over here in Europe!!!
> >>> And you are two over weight also!!
> >>> 
> >>> Bjarne
> >>> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Florentine Gown
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Hi!  I think you are onto something.  In the picture I just looked at, it
looks like it might be 'hooked' in a few places to something hidden under
the gown bodice, throug the chemise.  Maybe the gown has hooks that hooks
onto a 'pair of bodies' that is laced on, underneath the chemise?  That'd be
uncomfortable, I think, because the 'PoB' might chafe being against the
skin?  But maybe she's got one of those (currently disputed) sleeveless
chemises on, under it?  I think that would explain the bath house scenes
paintings showing them?  Certainly, there'd be no need for sleeves if
wearing something meant only for under a "Pob"s, right?

Just thinking 'out loud' on this list...

Emer \ Gia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cheri Merideth" <celticcheri@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 12:11 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Anyway................


>
> Hollo everyone,
>
> I have been thinking about making the dress in this
> painting (crossing fingers this takes you there)
>
> http:/homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/secondflor/secflor25.html
>
> It's Moretto:Portrait of a Yound Woman, 1540's Venice
>
> Nice dress, huh?  I'm wondering about the bodice.
> Maybe stays and buckram to hold the front up and where
> it belongs?  And do you think the bodice is attached
> to the skirt or no?
>
> In service,
> Anne
>
> =====
> Go softly and gently for those you meet here will be
> those you know hereafter."
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Friends.  Fun.  Try the all-new Yahoo! Messenger.
> http://messenger.yahoo.com/
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>


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>From: Lena Strid <lstrid@mglarc.com>
>Marc, if you want more examples of breeches, let me know. I've collected
>quite a few images for my underwear lecture.

Please.  I'd be interested in any sort of input.  thank you.

>You wrote:
> > It is interesting to note that shoes and body garments like breeches and
>shirts are not mentioned in any of the estate inventories I've ever seen.
>There are some undergarments mentioned in Swedish wills.

thus underscoring why I said to be skeptical when people say anything 
definatively -- even me :)

Marc

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ot America..back on costuming, please?
From: Lynn Downward <LDownward@chori.org>
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The Elizabethan peascod doublet imitated the armor of the time. The women's
clothing of Victorian times showed military influence - the Scottish cap I
can't remember the name of, zouave jackets, all that braid down the front of
bodices and skirts. During WW I and WW II the clothing, hats and other
accessories were very military in style. And I'm also remembering the
Eisenhower jacket, popular near the end of WW II and into the 1950s, and
popular again in the mid-70s. These are just a few examples off the top of
my head. I'm sure you'd think of many more examples given a couple of
minutes.

LynnD


On 6/8/04 12:17 PM, "Gia" <gia_gavino@comcast.net> wrote:

> Bjarne....well, I don't think you should have kept your mouth shut...
> Maybe could have gotten things off your chest to us (we are your efriends, I
> think) a little better...
> 
> We *do* want to hear what you think and feel...but maybe not generalize all
> of us as the baddies?
> 
> I mean, not all Germans were followers of Hitler or members of SS, right?
> 
> One of the things I noticed over the years of my research that anytime there
> is a major war, the fashions tend to adopt some of the military aspects of
> the day.  For example, the Landshneckt (spelling?) started the fashion for
> slashing perfectly good garments of the day.  There are others that I can't
> bring to mind right now.  I seem to vaguely recall that there were
> militarily influenced garments in English fashions several times.  Was there
> during the Elizabethan, Victorian, Regency eras?
> 
> I'd like to learn more about those periods and some suggestions for required
> reading a web searching.
> 
> In happy stitches,
> 
> Emer \ Gia
> just wanting to
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 11:35 AM
>> bjarne _ who should have kept his mouth shot!!
> 
> 
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From: Cheri Merideth <celticcheri@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ideas for charging for services
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Gia,

I agree!  I almost NEVER have money, but I always have
some time so doing things for other people in exchange
for something. It's always been my way of doing
things.

Plus, you get to have that human graditude that is
sometimes much better than cash.

In service,
Anne

--- Gia <gia_gavino@comcast.net> wrote:
> Hi!  I like bartering too.  It's still required to
> be reported for income
> (IRS Sucks), but it's more fun (I think).  I've
> gotten some really cool
> services and stuff by doing this.  For example, I
> got many hours from a guy
> friend of mine to help me move my stuff- twice!  In
> return, I am getting to
> make some really cool italian ren SCA costumes for
> him.
> 
> It's a wonderful way to get my 'work' out there in a
> different strata of
> folks than I usually get to see.
> 
> So it all balances out in the end.  I've still got
> your from your business
> class ideas on my mind, so I'll (hopefully) come up
> with a nice average for
> the typical folks.  I've got another friend looking
> into the local theaters
> for me, for 'networking'.
> Happy stitches to all!
> 
> Emer \ Gia


=====
Go softly and gently for those you meet here will be
those you know hereafter."


	
		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ideas for charging for services
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Part of the problem with costuminf for theater or movies is that you must be in he costuming union for that.  If you aren't in there then it is highly unlikely that you will get called or paid.  I was told to get into it without all the paperwork that you must volunteer your time.  THat is fine when it is regular street clothes, but come on.  The number of hours it takes for 1 period costume let alone an entie cast is not worth it for a single mother who needs to ay the bills and put food on the table.  It is a brutal side of the industry, the politics.  I bring my stuff to set whenI am work there as an extra or the kids are and the crew get to see my work, but that is it so far, a few names dropped, but nothing comes of it.  I am very happy sewing for a few customers and my family (which is huge) and also have another job.  It will have to do until someone says wow, I'llgive you the chance.
 
Janet

Gia <gia_gavino@comcast.net> wrote:
Hi! I like bartering too. It's still required to be reported for income
(IRS Sucks), but it's more fun (I think). I've gotten some really cool
services and stuff by doing this. For example, I got many hours from a guy
friend of mine to help me move my stuff- twice! In return, I am getting to
make some really cool italian ren SCA costumes for him.

It's a wonderful way to get my 'work' out there in a different strata of
folks than I usually get to see.

So it all balances out in the end. I've still got your from your business
class ideas on my mind, so I'll (hopefully) come up with a nice average for
the typical folks. I've got another friend looking into the local theaters
for me, for 'networking'.
Happy stitches to all!

Emer \ Gia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Janet Renzetti" 
To: "Historical Costume" 
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 11:54 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] charging for services


>to loose you enjoyment or a higher pirce could mean that youa re earning
your fun. I like the barterin!
> g too. I
> think it is because I am one of those weird women that enjoy negotiating
and seeing what I can get, but still feel it is fair.
> Just enjoy it and use that to guide you. I know many woudl disagree with
that statement, but it is your drive in the end.
>
> Janet
>
> Gia wrote:
> HI Katie!
>
> Hmmm...the idea is interesting. But, well, it is more important to know
> where folks are financially. I know *MANY* of my friends, and their
friends
> too, that have been laid off, injured on the job (and thus on L&I) or just
> financially hurting.
>
> So, while my friends say I'm not charging enough, I have no reason to not
> believe them. But then I think, where would my customers and potential
> customers get the money to pay what I may be worth? And besides, I'd be
> selling only locally; I have paid attention to the financial picture of
> those who (demographically speaking) would be interested in my work. They
> could not afford what has been suggested to me by my friends.
>
> So, I am stuck not knowing what the heck I should charge. As I said, I'm
> starting up my business, so I am having to reassess the situation
> drastically. I'll do an evaluation of your suggestion (from your business
> classes; thank you for sharing them!!) along with the other suggestions
I've
> already received.
>
> Hugs and many happy stitches.
>
> Emer \ Gia
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Katie Pleasance"
> To: "Historical Costume"
> Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 10:51 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] charging for services
>
>
> > One way to determine pricing is to start with a very reasonable price.
For
> > each following project, increase the price a bit. As time progresses,
you
> > will find that you are charging more than some customers can pay, but so
> > long as there remain customers that are willing to pay the increased
> price,
> > keep raising the price. Eventually, you will reach a point where the
price
> > drives away so many potential customers that your profits go down. At
that
> > point, lower your price enough to bring back some of those 'lost'
> > customers. Keep the price as high as possible without making yourself so
> > expensive that your net profit goes down because you are charging more
> than
> > your customer-base is willing to pay.
> > This is classical 'marginal pricing' in business-speak. This is the pure
> > business way of looking at pricing. It does not take into account such
> > things as loss-leader sales in order to increase business volume, etc.
> >
> > You might decide to charge less for certain customers. If you do so,
> > remember that doing so is taking money out of your pocket. Also remember
> > that if your higher-paying customers find out that you are giving
> > preferential pricing, fewer people will be willing to pay the higher
price
> > because they will feel that they have been discriminated against.
> >
> > As always, my opinion.
> >
> > Katie
>
>
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Dawn,

I would advise you to get a new CPA. As a sole proprietor you are 
responsible for self employment taxes which is in addtion to the regular 
taxes. Also, it doesn't matter whether you are a business or not for another 
company to list you as an expense on their taxes. If they wrote a check to 
you then it is a legitimate expense and it can be traced back to you.

I am currently an accountant but used to have my own custom sewing business.

Mazelle
(who's been lurking for awhile)


>From: Dawn Jacobson <dme_maud@pacbell.net>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] Re: weddingdress
>Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 12:27:05 -0700 (PDT)
>
>Ann Wass wrote:
> >
> > Don't know what the tax situation is in Canada or
> > Denmark, but another
> > consideration for me here in the US is that, if I
> > did sew for money, I would be
> > liable for over 40% in taxes--income tax, plus both
> > employer and employee shares
> > of the Social Security tax. So that $20 an hour
> > becomes more like $12.
> >
> > Of course, you can expense some of your gross income
> > away, like by buying a
> > new sewing machine. but not all of it,  (And then
> > the issue would arise if you
> > used the machine ONLY for business.) The IRS
> > requires you to show a profit in
> > some years or they regard your "business" as a hobby
> > and you can't expense any
> > of it!
> >
> > I'm sure a number of small entrepeneurs don't report
> > their income, but I
> > believe in being honest with the government.
>
>Actually, in the United States, as the owner of a
>service business organized as a sole proprietorship
>(meaning there aren't any employees beyond the owner),
>you do not have to pay Social Security tax. You do,
>however, have to declare any income made over the
>expenses of the business, and pay taxes (at regular
>tax rates) on said income; this can range from
>approximately 15-30%. The IRS and most states (as the
>income must also be declared on state income taxes,
>but check with your state or your tax person) require
>that a "business" show a profit 3 years after
>establishment, or it is considered a "hobby": the
>difference being that you must still declare the
>income, but can't deduct the expenses for said
>"hobby."
>
>The advice I have received from a CPA friend with
>background in these matters is to not establish it as
>a business until such time as you might be listed as
>an "expense" by another business. An example of this
>might be if you get a commission to do a bunch of
>costume pieces for a "for profit" theatrical company
>or costume company.
>
>Of course, talk to a tax professional as they can give
>you the most up-to-date information for your locale.
>
>Dawn
>
>=====
>Dawn Jacobson
>Vallejo, CA, USA
>
>Clothes are just the costumes we wear every day.
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: [h-cost] Fashions in war history
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Thank you!  This gives me a start..!

Emer \ Gia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lynn Downward" <LDownward@chori.org>
To: "h costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 12:43 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ot America..back on costuming, please?


> The Elizabethan peascod doublet imitated the armor of the time. The
women's
> clothing of Victorian times showed military influence - the Scottish cap I
> can't remember the name of, zouave jackets, all that braid down the front
of
> bodices and skirts. During WW I and WW II the clothing, hats and other
> accessories were very military in style. And I'm also remembering the
> Eisenhower jacket, popular near the end of WW II and into the 1950s, and
> popular again in the mid-70s. These are just a few examples off the top of
> my head. I'm sure you'd think of many more examples given a couple of
> minutes.
>
> LynnD
>
>
> On 6/8/04 12:17 PM, "Gia" <gia_gavino@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> > Bjarne....well, I don't think you should have kept your mouth shut...
> > Maybe could have gotten things off your chest to us (we are your
efriends, I
> > think) a little better...
> >
> > We *do* want to hear what you think and feel...but maybe not generalize
all
> > of us as the baddies?
> >
> > I mean, not all Germans were followers of Hitler or members of SS,
right?
> >
> > One of the things I noticed over the years of my research that anytime
there
> > is a major war, the fashions tend to adopt some of the military aspects
of
> > the day.  For example, the Landshneckt (spelling?) started the fashion
for
> > slashing perfectly good garments of the day.  There are others that I
can't
> > bring to mind right now.  I seem to vaguely recall that there were
> > militarily influenced garments in English fashions several times.  Was
there
> > during the Elizabethan, Victorian, Regency eras?
> >
> > I'd like to learn more about those periods and some suggestions for
required
> > reading a web searching.
> >
> > In happy stitches,
> >
> > Emer \ Gia
> > just wanting to
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> > To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 11:35 AM
> >> bjarne _ who should have kept his mouth shot!!
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 12:51:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: Cheri Merideth <celticcheri@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Anyway................
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Oh, thanks.  As you can tell, this is not my strong
suit.  

In service,
Anne
--- purplkat@optonline.net wrote:
> you need to pu 2 /'s in the URL to make most systems
> turn it into a clickable link.
> 
> Katheryne
> 
> try this one
> 
>
http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/secondflor/secflor25.html
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Cheri Merideth <celticcheri@yahoo.com>
> Date: Tuesday, June 8, 2004 3:11 pm
> Subject: [h-cost] Anyway................
> 
> > 
> > Hollo everyone,
> > 
> > I have been thinking about making the dress in
> this
> > painting (crossing fingers this takes you there)
> > 
> >
>
http:/homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/secondflor/secflor25.html
> > 
> > It's Moretto:Portrait of a Yound Woman, 1540's
> Venice
> > 
> > Nice dress, huh?  I'm wondering about the bodice. 
> > Maybe stays and buckram to hold the front up and
> where
> > it belongs?  And do you think the bodice is
> attached
> > to the skirt or no?
> > 
> > In service,
> > Anne
> > 
> > =====
> > Go softly and gently for those you meet here will
> be
> > those you know hereafter."
> > 
> > 
> > 	
> >        	
> > __________________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Friends.  Fun.  Try the all-new Yahoo! Messenger.
> > http://messenger.yahoo.com/ 
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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=====
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those you know hereafter."


	
		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ideas for charging for services
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Anne, that is so true!  The look on their faces when I tell them (after I've
measured them) that they have to come in to fit the pattern and then the
muslin toile *before* I'll cut the fashion fabric is just too funny!

Apparently the folks who've 'bartered' with them before just took the
measurements and hoped for the best.  *grin*.  I don't do things that way.
This has been a very good thing because whenever I need a 'favor' I know
they will be prompt in volunteering, they *know* that I'll do a really good
barter.

Happy stitching!
Emer \ Gia
>
> Plus, you get to have that human graditude that is
> sometimes much better than cash.
>
> In service,
> Anne
>
>


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From: Cheri Merideth <celticcheri@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Florentine Gown
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Gia,

I had not thought of hooks.  Interesting.  I'm not
sure how that would work with the chemise.  You'd have
to have a special one just for this dress.  

I'm just wondering if this is just a "pose dress" and
not practical for acutally wearing.?  I'd hate to make
it and find out all I can do while wearing it is to
sit on my bum and look pretty.  haha!

In service,
Anne


--- Gia <gia_gavino@comcast.net> wrote:
> Hi!  I think you are onto something.  In the picture
> I just looked at, it
> looks like it might be 'hooked' in a few places to
> something hidden under
> the gown bodice, throug the chemise.  Maybe the gown
> has hooks that hooks
> onto a 'pair of bodies' that is laced on, underneath
> the chemise?  That'd be
> uncomfortable, I think, because the 'PoB' might
> chafe being against the
> skin?  But maybe she's got one of those (currently
> disputed) sleeveless
> chemises on, under it?  I think that would explain
> the bath house scenes
> paintings showing them?  Certainly, there'd be no
> need for sleeves if
> wearing something meant only for under a "Pob"s,
> right?
> 
> Just thinking 'out loud' on this list...
> 
> Emer \ Gia
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Cheri Merideth" <celticcheri@yahoo.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 12:11 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] Anyway................
> 
> 
> >
> > Hollo everyone,
> >
> > I have been thinking about making the dress in
> this
> > painting (crossing fingers this takes you there)
> >
> >
>
http:/homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/secondflor/secflor25.html
> >
> > It's Moretto:Portrait of a Yound Woman, 1540's
> Venice
> >
> > Nice dress, huh?  I'm wondering about the bodice.
> > Maybe stays and buckram to hold the front up and
> where
> > it belongs?  And do you think the bodice is
> attached
> > to the skirt or no?
> >
> > In service,
> > Anne
> >
> > =====
> > Go softly and gently for those you meet here will
> be
> > those you know hereafter."
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > __________________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Friends.  Fun.  Try the all-new Yahoo! Messenger.
> > http://messenger.yahoo.com/
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


=====
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those you know hereafter."

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From: "Gia" <gia_gavino@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ideas for charging for services
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Oh, I didn't know!  Thank you for sharing that information.  Hmmm.  Janet,
how does one get into a costuming union?  I certainly can NOT afford to
volunteer my services.

Emer \ Gia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Janet Renzetti" <celtic_dragonrider@yahoo.ca>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 12:45 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ideas for charging for services


> Part of the problem with costuminf for theater or movies is that you must
be in he costuming union for that.  If you aren't in there then it is highly
unlikely that you will get called or paid.  I was told to get into it
without all the paperwork that you must volunteer your time.  THat is fine
when it is regular street clothes, but come on.  The number of hours it
takes for 1 period costume let alone an entie cast is not worth it for a
single mother who needs to ay the bills and put food on the table.  It is a
brutal side of the industry, the politics.


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Just finished ( I hope) putting the spring-steel boning into a new 16th C
corset, wow it's surprisingly heavy, yet much thinner than my old one.

I'm off to go pound some grommets...

What is everyone else working on?

Sheridan


*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*

They say that the pen is mightier than the sword,
but which one would you rather be hit with?


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Anyway................
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Hi there...

         I do like Moretto,  nice sense of composition and color.  The 
dress, very nice.  Think I'd like one myself.  ; >
         I would say the bodice is stiffened with multiple layers of cloth 
- my guess.  But what really catches my eye is the chemise.  I'm a sucker 
for white work.
Good luck,  and please share the finished product with us.
Mari / Bridgette


>http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/secondflor/secflor25.html
>
>It's Moretto:Portrait of a Yound Woman, 1540's Venice
>
>Nice dress, huh?  I'm wondering about the bodice.
>Maybe stays and buckram to hold the front up and where
>it belongs?  And do you think the bodice is attached
>to the skirt or no?
>
>In service,
>Anne
>
>=====
>Go softly and gently for those you meet here will be
>those you know hereafter."
>
>
>
>
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Sorry, folks, maybe I set this off by my mention of U.S. taxes. 

Anyway, I agree--PLEASE let us keep politics out of this site. I have very 
strong opinions, too, but won't air them here.

Ann Wass
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In a message dated 6/8/2004 4:00:08 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
gia_gavino@comcast.net writes:
Part of the problem with costuminf for theater or movies is that you must
be in he costuming union for that. 
At least for theater, not always and everywhere. I worked as a paid overhire 
for one of the professional theaters here in DC and did not have to be union. 
I did get paid, but it wasn't enough to compensate for the long hours and 
difficult personalities I had to work with, in my opinion. But I'm glad I had the 
experience.
Ann Wass
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I was thinking the same; this can't be a real-world dress. It's gorgeous and
I'd love to own it, right down to the belt! (How did she do that?) However,
the curving of a body would force the tops of the bodice apart much more
than they are as posed, even with boning down the front unless they were
connected to either each other or to the clothing underneath. We can see
there's no connection between right front and left front bodice pieces. If
there were hooks from the bodices to the chemise, that chemise would have
spread apart and those lovely pleats wouldn't be there. It's not realistic
to think that the hooks and eyes go through the chemise to something
underneath the chemise. The only possible way for it to work is if the
chemise is a fake, as the Victorians and Edwardians made, and there's no
research I've seen or heard of to support this guess in the 1540s. Can
anyone else think of any possible way for the front of the bodice to stay up
like that and maintain the chemise pleats also? Except, of course, if the
bodice was metal covered with fabric.


LynnD
Wishing I could think of a way to work that dress in the real world.

On 6/8/04 12:58 PM, "Cheri Merideth" <celticcheri@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Gia,
> 
> I had not thought of hooks.  Interesting.  I'm not
> sure how that would work with the chemise.  You'd have
> to have a special one just for this dress.
> 
> I'm just wondering if this is just a "pose dress" and
> not practical for acutally wearing.?  I'd hate to make
> it and find out all I can do while wearing it is to
> sit on my bum and look pretty.  haha!
> 
> In service,
> Anne
> 
> 
> --- Gia <gia_gavino@comcast.net> wrote:
>> Hi!  I think you are onto something.  In the picture
>> I just looked at, it
>> looks like it might be 'hooked' in a few places to
>> something hidden under
>> the gown bodice, throug the chemise.  Maybe the gown
>> has hooks that hooks
>> onto a 'pair of bodies' that is laced on, underneath
>> the chemise?  That'd be
>> uncomfortable, I think, because the 'PoB' might
>> chafe being against the
>> skin?  But maybe she's got one of those (currently
>> disputed) sleeveless
>> chemises on, under it?  I think that would explain
>> the bath house scenes
>> paintings showing them?  Certainly, there'd be no
>> need for sleeves if
>> wearing something meant only for under a "Pob"s,
>> right?
>> 
>> Just thinking 'out loud' on this list...
>> 
>> Emer \ Gia
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Cheri Merideth" <celticcheri@yahoo.com>
>> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 12:11 PM
>> Subject: [h-cost] Anyway................
>> 
>> 
>>> 
>>> Hollo everyone,
>>> 
>>> I have been thinking about making the dress in
>> this
>>> painting (crossing fingers this takes you there)
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
> http:/homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/secondflor/secflor25.html
>>> 
>>> It's Moretto:Portrait of a Yound Woman, 1540's
>> Venice
>>> 
>>> Nice dress, huh?  I'm wondering about the bodice.
>>> Maybe stays and buckram to hold the front up and
>> where
>>> it belongs?  And do you think the bodice is
>> attached
>>> to the skirt or no?
>>> 
>>> In service,
>>> Anne
>>> 
>>> =====
>>> Go softly and gently for those you meet here will
>> be
>>> those you know hereafter."
>>> 

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Molly made an interesting point...

>Costume content:  Want ot see a return of teh medievel ability to 
>determine class by clothing?  Watch American fashions for the next 5 years 
>unless things change.
>
>Molly

I've been pondering very much the same thing.  Especially today as I stood 
in line at the cafeteria where I work,  and just noticed how badly the 
clothing fit,  how thin the fabrics, how laching in tailoring or 
style.  Interesting...  the masses are moving towards greater schlumpiness 
and the minority is too, to some degree,  in imitation.

very interesting...  It will be an interesting trend to watch.

Mari / Bridgette 

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To add to the list:
Regency: military influence in spencers (short jackets), pelisse's (long 
coats), and riding habits--frogs, lacing, epaulettes, more severe cut, etc.

- Hope


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In a message dated 6/8/2004 3:17:47 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
gia_gavino@comcast.net writes:

> There are others that I can't
> bring to mind right now.

Well, pockets seem to be one thing that goes military fast. It happens in 
1870s America to imitate 18th century....or Revolutionary War.... pockets. Also 
WWI and WWII. And women get to dress in drag! Can you imagine the reverse in 
time of peace? Men in chiffon...the war must be over!
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Here at work I see it on a more exagerated scale...

The high office types have been slowly going from formal office to casual office to almost jeans & sweatshirts

The middle office went from casual office to jeans & 'high quality' sweatshirts

The under clerks went from casual office to jeans to sloppy 

And here I am a wierdo continuing to wear my mid-level office clothes in resistance to the latest fashion of wearing your 'grungies' to an office building.


Katheryne
who is still wearing her linen & silks


----- Original Message -----
From: M Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu>
> 
> Molly made an interesting point...
> 
> >Costume content:  Want ot see a return of teh medievel ability to 
> >determine class by clothing?  Watch American fashions for the 
> next 5 years unless things change.
> >
> >Molly
> 
> I've been pondering very much the same thing.  Especially today as 
> I stood in line at the cafeteria where I work,  and just noticed how badly 
> the clothing fit,  how thin the fabrics, how laching in tailoring or 
> style.  Interesting...  the masses are moving towards greater 
> schlumpiness and the minority is too, to some degree,  in imitation.
> 
> very interesting...  It will be an interesting trend to watch.
> 
> Mari / Bridgette 

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In a message dated 6/8/2004 4:20:21 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
hope.greenberg@uvm.edu writes:
Regency: military influence in spencers (short jackets), pelisse's (long 
coats), and riding habits--frogs, lacing, epaulettes, more severe cut, etc.
Ah, yes, the whole "a la Hussar" look.
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ot America
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michelle Plumb" <mplumb@wideopenwest.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 3:09 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ot America


> That's not fair, Bjarne.
>
> Lots of us aren't loud or obnoxious, don't live in big houses or "allow"
our
> government to run roughshod over the rest of the world.
>
> It's just not fair to assume the whole country behaves like a select few.
> Michelle

I ahve to agree. Frankly, Bjarne, I thought we were friends. That really
felt like a totally unexpected slap in the face. My husband and I work HARD
for what little we have--which is a little bit of furniture, a mini van not
even half paid for, and a rented 3 bedroom house. I would LOVE to have a big
house, but as long as my husband is in radio, it isn't gonna happen. Greg
loves his job, and is excited about going to work each day. I think a happy
husband is more important than stuff. Maybe you are getting too many ideas
about every day life in the US from television

Hurt
Dianne
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Anyway................
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well, I'm off to cut some fabric up and see where this
bodice goes from here.  i'll touch back later.
Thank you all.

In service,
Anne

=====
Go softly and gently for those you meet here will be
those you know hereafter."


	
		
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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>My personal favourite happened to lady who was in my Naval unit as well as 
>being in the SCA - she curtsied instead of saluting an officer on parade.  
>Luckily he was so bemused that she didn't get in any trouble over it... <G>

Tourney all weekend, driving long distance there and back in car full of
SCAers, working Monday morning on not enough sleep, called manager of Jack
in the Box (fast food restaurant) Milord.  Woke me up.

       CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
         www.FunStuft.com

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Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>We hate you over here in Europe!

I certainly wouldn't want you to feel you had to talk with people you 
hate, Bjarne.  I'll miss hearing about your beautiful projects.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

I have a simple-sounding solution for much political ill: fire the 
speechwriters; make the candidates & office holders write their own 
material.

This would remove the blandness, the spin-doctoring, and the nicey-nicey 
masks that folks wear when delivering someone else's work. Then we'll 
*really* know who we're voting for.  -- cv
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Subject: [h-cost] help sought in finding a stitch
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has anyone here ever heard of Breton stitch? 

Arlys

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Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 19:50:49 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sark?
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But I'm afraid the island of Sark is in the Channel Islands, (south of 
England, next to Normandy) not in Scotland.  Don't know if it's renowned 
for alcohol, but it won't be whisky!

Jean

Katie Pleasance <Katie@katiesorchids.com> wrote
>Ah, your information fits in quite well with mine. I remember seeing 
>the metal shirt on the masthead. You remember other things ... 
>together, it makes a good story ...
>
>(and so long as we keep returning to the chemise, it stays on topic <g>.)
>
>Katie
>
>At 07:09 PM 6/8/2004 +0100, you wrote:
>>"Cutty Sark" as a name for scotch or the famous tea clipper, is a 
>>reference from Robert Burns' "Tam o'Shanter".  He comes upon a group 
>>of witches and warlocks dancing, and they have thrown off their 
>>clothes and are dancing just in their *sarks*.  One of the witches is 
>>particularly young and attractive and wearing a particularly short 
>>chemise, and like a fool he draws her attention by shouting out "well 
>>done, cutty-sark". She chases him and nearly catches him, but when she 
>>has his horse by the tail, the horse gets away over the river leaving 
>>its tail in the witch's hand.
>>
>>The figurehead of the ship Cutty Sark is a young woman (well endowed 
>>and scantily dressed), reaching out to grab something.
>>Jean
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

-- 
Jean Waddie
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ot America
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In a message dated 6/8/04 3:45:17 PM Central Daylight Time, 
cvirtue+dated+1102279403.9766e9@thibault.org writes:
I certainly wouldn't want you to feel you had to talk with people you 
hate, Bjarne.  I'll miss hearing about your beautiful projects.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent


Why, thank you, Cynthia ... I was starting to wonder if I was insane here, or 
what, and I was the only person who thinks Bjarne needs to take a very long 
walk off a very short pier, post haste.

I have been sitting here reading through this afternoon's posts with my jaw 
almost down to my lap ... NOT because of the asinine and utterly demented 
comments made by Bjarne, but by the pandering and attempts at reasoning that I have 
seen the very people that he insulted engaging in, trying to MAKE him like 
you.  Are you people nuts?  Have we really sunk to such bizarre levels of low 
self image in the US that when someone makes a mentally disturbed, unprovoked, 
witless personal attack, which has absolutely no basis in reality OR politics 
but is simply intended to inflame and provoke, that we not only don't get 
upset, we APOLOGIZE FOR LIVING????  

Whether your politics lead you to support or oppose the current conflict, the 
statement that was made had nothing to do with the current conflict.  It was 
simply  a childish tantrum, and a pointless one at that.  Gee whiz, the US is 
the world's police, and this spectacular insight is somehow supposed to make 
Bjarne a political genius?  It's only been that way for a little over a century 
now.  Pardon me if I'm less than floored by a level of astuteness that is 
able to take a worn out platitude he got off some self-proclaimed political 
analyst on the nightly news, and parrot it back out with absolutely no 
comprehension or grounds for what he's stating.

Other countries don't like us?  Well, gosh, again, I'm really floored there 
... because heaven knows that up until now, the nation to whom it has fallen to 
be the superpower of its age, has always been SO well liked by the nations 
who couldn't keep up.  You know what?  The American empire (if you will) may 
come to an end one day, violently or otherwise ... but by God, people throughout 
posterity will remember with awe and respect who we WERE, if not always with 
wholehearted approval.  I'd much rather be part of that than some country like 
Uruguay that no one can even pick out on a globe, or any country that sits 
back on its ass watching what happens around the world and doesn't have the guts, 
courage, or werewithal to get up and do something.  We screw up, yes.  We 
have imperfect intentions and imperfect outcomes at times, yes.  But we also do 
INESTIMABLE good all around the globe, and I don't see the liberal media or 
halfwits like Bjarne taking any of that into account when they spout their cant.

And Americans are all fat?  Wow.  I thought it was only in AOL chatrooms that 
prepubescent, semi-literate teenagers resorted to the "you're FAT!" remarks 
when they ran out of intelligent responses ... but hey, I'm always grateful to 
learn something new.  Bjarne, you smell funny.  So there!!! (hey, that felt 
good, let me think of a "yo mamma" ....)  I mean, seriously, folks ... this is 
the mentality that you are trying to reason with and are calling a "friend".  
UNBELIEVABLE.

I honestly don't know who I'm more disgusted with  -  the foul-mouthed, 
small-minded, teenage-mentality-wanna-be who provoked all this, or the people who 
actually sat here trying to appease him by explaining that some of us are 
really struggling, by gosh.  Good God, people - where's your sense of pride in 
YOURSELF, if you don't have any in your country???

To Bjarne himself - assuming that you're not still looking up all the big 
words in my post so far - the only thing that I disagree with Cynthia's post on, 
is that I won't be missing ANY of your inanities, your constant and shameless 
self promotion, and your pathetically illegible attempts at our language.  
Apparently your grasp of our country as a whole is right about on a par with your 
grasp of our language, and sugar, that ain't saying much.

If others on the list hate me for what I've said here, that's absolutely fine 
with me.  I'm with the government on this one - I'd rather go down fighting 
for what I think is right, than sit on my butt and be a spectator when I 
believe something is wrong.

-Tiffany
 Nemo me impune lacessit.
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Katie Pleasance <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Normal? -- Chivalry
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This is a little off the 'normal' off-topic topic <g>:

I had a flat on the freeway today. Not good, especially as it was a front 
tire and it went down instantly, which made steering difficult. I pulled 
over to a safe place, turned on the 4-way blinkers and lifted the hood to 
indicate that I had a problem. Then I started to pull the spare out of the 
back. (Cell phone? Nah ...) Before I had the jack out, a man with earrings 
and tattoos pulled over and offered to help. Within minutes I was back on 
the road.

The moral of the story?

1. Chivalry still exists.

2. Don't judge a guy by his jewelry and tattoos.

3. Wearing a very full-skirted, lightweight sun-dress on a very windy day 
probably helped, even though I'm nearly 60 <g>.

4. Many men like women who can do things themselves but also like to help 
women.

Katie


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] danish courtdress
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Status: RO

Thank you Anne

I don't remember where I ran across it, but I just loved it when I say it.
My favorite is:

"One thing you got to say about the Republicans, they don't give up easily.
Impeach Clinton, steal Florida, redistrict Texas, recall Davis.  You know
what, these guys had better watch out or they're going to get slapped with
the reputation of being extremely sore losers."

But I don't us it too much because it can produce negative messages.  GRIN

Stephen Bergdahl - Lord Vich

I could pay off my tab, pour myself in a cab,  And be back to work by two.

But at a moment like this I can't help but wonder?  What would Jimmy Buffet
do?


----- Original Message -----
From: "Cheri Merideth" <celticcheri@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, June 07, 2004 11:38 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] danish courtdress


> > Stephen
> >
> > The Bible contains six admonishments to homosexuals
> > and 362 admonishments to
> > heterosexuals. That doesn't mean that God doesn't
> > love heterosexuals. It's
> > just that they need more supervision. ~ Lynn Lavner
> >
>
> Stephen,
>
> I love your sign off...it's the first real laugh I've
> had today!  I hope you (nor Lynn Lavner) don't mind me
> shareing it with others.  It's great.
>
> I'm a newbie, in fact, yours is only the 4th e-mail
> i've read, and lots more to go.....
>
> Anne
>
>
>
> =====
> Go softly and gently for those you meet here will be
> those you know hereafter."
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Friends.  Fun.  Try the all-new Yahoo! Messenger.
> http://messenger.yahoo.com/
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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I completely agree. The quality of construction of ready-to-wear is 
abysmal. The styling is just as bad. It's as though our society glorifies 
that which is degraded and wants to emulate it in the quality and style of 
their clothes.

When was the last generation that wore well-fitted clothes? The Kennedy 
era? Anybody who grew up since then has never experienced well-fitting, 
well-tailored clothes and therefore doesn't know what it is.

As always, my opinion.

Katie, who has been very talkative today <g>.


>I've been pondering very much the same thing.  Especially today as I stood 
>in line at the cafeteria where I work,  and just noticed how badly the 
>clothing fit,  how thin the fabrics, how laching in tailoring or 
>style.  Interesting...  the masses are moving towards greater schlumpiness 
>and the minority is too, to some degree,  in imitation.
>very interesting...  It will be an interesting trend to watch.
>Mari / Bridgette



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Subject: [h-cost] Name Tape Supplier-thanks for the link.
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This is great!  I had tried in the past to find some but they had such huge
minimums!

> (http://www.sterlingnametape.com) or any other tape site and order
yourself

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Oops! There goes my credibility!

At least I'm sure the ship information was correct.

Katie, hiding behind a pillar

At 07:50 PM 6/8/2004 +0100, you wrote:
>But I'm afraid the island of Sark is in the Channel Islands, (south of 
>England, next to Normandy) not in Scotland.  Don't know if it's renowned 
>for alcohol, but it won't be whisky!
>Jean



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Just a thought, perhaps the artist forgot to paint the lacings. If you look
at the opening of the chemise you can see cleavage and not PoB. As for a
corset/PoB next to the skin, if it were made of linen it would be
breathable.

My 2 cents
De



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I have no idea what caused that little diatribe, but I think Bjarne should
apologize forthwith and be put on moderation of all posts or tossed off the
list.

Ro, came here to learn but not garbage like this.

http://www.livejournal.com/users/ladyrowansplace/

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Delurking to agree with you both here.  This aspect of recent culture pervades more than just clothing, when you consider where the majority of Americans spend their cash.

I'd like some crap, please, and could you Supersize that for me?

Cheers,
Heidi


I completely agree. The quality of construction of ready-to-wear is 
abysmal. The styling is just as bad. It's as though our society glorifies 
that which is degraded and wants to emulate it in the quality and style of 
their clothes.

When was the last generation that wore well-fitted clothes? The Kennedy 
era? Anybody who grew up since then has never experienced well-fitting, 
well-tailored clothes and therefore doesn't know what it is.

As always, my opinion.

Katie, who has been very talkative today <g>.


>I've been pondering very much the same thing.  Especially today as I stood 
>in line at the cafeteria where I work,  and just noticed how badly the 
>clothing fit,  how thin the fabrics, how laching in tailoring or 
>style.  Interesting...  the masses are moving towards greater schlumpiness 
>and the minority is too, to some degree,  in imitation.
>very interesting...  It will be an interesting trend to watch.
>Mari / Bridgette



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Florentine Gown
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It's got those wrinkles on either side of the front bodice that you get 
from wearing a dress that is laced closed. It looks to me like the 
lacing has been removed, or not painted in. You can almost see where 
there might be rings on the sitter's right side, where the fabric pulls 
just a bit out of straight.



Dawn



Lynn Downward wrote:

>  We can see
> there's no connection between right front and left front bodice pieces. If
> there were hooks from the bodices to the chemise, that chemise would have
> spread apart and those lovely pleats wouldn't be there. It's not realistic
> to think that the hooks and eyes go through the chemise to something
> underneath the chemise.

>>
>>I had not thought of hooks.  Interesting.  I'm not
>>sure how that would work with the chemise.  You'd have
>>to have a special one just for this dress.
>>

>>>looks like it might be 'hooked' in a few places to
>>>something hidden under
>>>the gown bodice, throug the chemise.  Maybe the gown
>>>has hooks that hooks
>>>onto a 'pair of bodies' that is laced on, underneath
>>>the chemise? 

>>>
>>http:/homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/secondflor/secflor25.html
>>
>>>>It's Moretto:Portrait of a Yound Woman, 1540's

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ot America
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Whao, where did that come from?

Bjarne?
  
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 1:52 PM
Subject: [h-cost] ot America


> And
> Let me tell you a little thing out there in America!
> I think you are spoiled people, living in big houses and letting your
> government take two much participation in european and world issue.< You
> love to be a police of the world, legt me tell you
> We hate you over here in Europe!!!
> And you are two over weight also!!
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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> bjarne _ who should have kept his mouth shot!!

Yes bjarne, I think you'd better shut up, or you'll end up being busted from
this list.

I really, really respected you until now, but I'm starting to think you
seriously lack perspective.
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Don't forget the Hussar hats, bicorns, etc... and military-style braid worn on ladies clothing (particularly riding habits) during the Napoleonic wars.  It is rather interesting how much one area of society affects another...

Cheers,
Danielle
--------- Original Message ---------

>Thank you!  This gives me a start..!
>
>Emer \ Gia
>----- Original Message ----- 
>> The Elizabethan peascod doublet imitated the armor of the time. The
>women's
>> clothing of Victorian times showed military influence - the Scottish cap I
>> can't remember the name of, zouave jackets, all that braid down the front
>of
>> bodices and skirts. During WW I and WW II the clothing, hats and other
>> accessories were very military in style. And I'm also remembering the
>> Eisenhower jacket, popular near the end of WW II and into the 1950s, and
>> popular again in the mid-70s. These are just a few examples off the top of
>> my head. I'm sure you'd think of many more examples given a couple of
>> minutes.
>>
>> LynnD



Need a new email address that people can remember
Check out the new EudoraMail at
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I think you have to take this painting with a dump-truck load of salt.  It is clearly a mannerist image and is by definition very stylized.  I think you you approached the garment like the ones we do have better evidence for around this time period - buckram stiffened at best you will be on the right path.  Besides which, this gown would probably have been worn over some sort of kirtle layer for the green sleeves to attach to, although they could be pinned or tied to the pinkinsh dress, personally I think this is less likely.

Cheers,
Danielle

--------- Original Message ---------

DATE: Tue, 08 Jun 2004 13:11:55
From: Lynn Downward <LDownward@chori.org>
To: h costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: 

>I was thinking the same; this can't be a real-world dress. It's gorgeous and
>I'd love to own it, right down to the belt! (How did she do that?) However,
>the curving of a body would force the tops of the bodice apart much more
>than they are as posed, even with boning down the front unless they were
>connected to either each other or to the clothing underneath. We can see
>there's no connection between right front and left front bodice pieces. If
>there were hooks from the bodices to the chemise, that chemise would have
>spread apart and those lovely pleats wouldn't be there. It's not realistic
>to think that the hooks and eyes go through the chemise to something
>underneath the chemise. The only possible way for it to work is if the
>chemise is a fake, as the Victorians and Edwardians made, and there's no
>research I've seen or heard of to support this guess in the 1540s. Can
>anyone else think of any possible way for the front of the bodice to stay up
>like that and maintain the chemise pleats also? Except, of course, if the
>bodice was metal covered with fabric.
>
>
>LynnD
>Wishing I could think of a way to work that dress in the real world.
>
>On 6/8/04 12:58 PM, "Cheri Merideth" <celticcheri@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> Gia,
>> 
>> I had not thought of hooks.  Interesting.  I'm not
>> sure how that would work with the chemise.  You'd have
>> to have a special one just for this dress.
>> 
>> I'm just wondering if this is just a "pose dress" and
>> not practical for acutally wearing.?  I'd hate to make
>> it and find out all I can do while wearing it is to
>> sit on my bum and look pretty.  haha!
>> 
>> In service,
>> Anne
>> 
>> 
>> --- Gia <gia_gavino@comcast.net> wrote:
>>> Hi!  I think you are onto something.  In the picture
>>> I just looked at, it
>>> looks like it might be 'hooked' in a few places to
>>> something hidden under
>>> the gown bodice, throug the chemise.  Maybe the gown
>>> has hooks that hooks
>>> onto a 'pair of bodies' that is laced on, underneath
>>> the chemise?  That'd be
>>> uncomfortable, I think, because the 'PoB' might
>>> chafe being against the
>>> skin?  But maybe she's got one of those (currently
>>> disputed) sleeveless
>>> chemises on, under it?  I think that would explain
>>> the bath house scenes
>>> paintings showing them?  Certainly, there'd be no
>>> need for sleeves if
>>> wearing something meant only for under a "Pob"s,
>>> right?
>>> 
>>> Just thinking 'out loud' on this list...
>>> 
>>> Emer \ Gia
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: "Cheri Merideth" <celticcheri@yahoo.com>
>>> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>>> Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 12:11 PM
>>> Subject: [h-cost] Anyway................
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Hollo everyone,
>>>> 
>>>> I have been thinking about making the dress in
>>> this
>>>> painting (crossing fingers this takes you there)
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>> 
>> http:/homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/secondflor/secflor25.html
>>>> 
>>>> It's Moretto:Portrait of a Yound Woman, 1540's
>>> Venice
>>>> 
>>>> Nice dress, huh?  I'm wondering about the bodice.
>>>> Maybe stays and buckram to hold the front up and
>>> where
>>>> it belongs?  And do you think the bodice is
>>> attached
>>>> to the skirt or no?
>>>> 
>>>> In service,
>>>> Anne
>>>> 
>>>> =====
>>>> Go softly and gently for those you meet here will
>>> be
>>>> those you know hereafter."
>>>> 
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jun  8 18:22:10 2004
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Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2004 18:20:44 -0400
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ot America
From: ruthanne baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I play the lute a little, and I used to belong to a group like this that
discussed playing the lute.

Every once in a while there would be a nationalistic flurry as someone from
one country or another claimed that the lute had originated THERE, but on
the whole it was an informative and enjoyable list with a lot of helpfulness
and a lot of camaraderie.

The postings on 9/11/01 were amazing, beginning with one that said
"something awful has just happened outside my window." For one day the lute
list was the source of enormous international comfort and support in
response to a terrible attack that killed people of many countries. On the
list, people who knew each other because of only one common interest reached
out to one another as human beings.

But then the next day somebody made a remark about Arabs.

And then came some remarks about Americans.

And then the international vitriol was unbelievable.

I am a VERY politically-oriented person (way left of center, if anybody's
interested). But after a couple more days I left the list. I was just too
disillusioned about the spirit of the list.

I'm here to learn about historic clothing and contribute my occasional
remarks (ranging from possibly-interesting to downright silly, I admit).
Last week I was in a costuming bind and asked the list for help. I got three
very kind answers, the most helpful being from Bjarne.

I have to admit that I'm also here because I love to listen to people from
around the world talk on common interests--in beautiful English or
misspelled English or English-as-a-second-language, or once in a while in
French, Danish, Latin, or German phrases. I'm fascinated by how much people
know and how generously they're willing to share it.

I'm not here to listen to people abuse each other. I'm not here to talk
politics (I do that the REST of the time).

I've got something of a crush on Bjarne because of his wonderful work, his
modesty, his enormous energy, and his general kindness and enthusiasm. His
feelings about the U.S. haven't damaged that crush, although I'd have to
agree that posting those feelings hasn't turned out to be a good idea and
this list isn't quite the place.

But SOME of the reactions....it's starting to feel like the lute list.

PLEASE let's not get nationalistic, except as it serves to distinguish
between costume styles. PLEASE let's not get into personal attacks on the
basis of politics, or expertise in English, or weight, or imagined wealth,
or imagined personal hygiene....

Some of the people who wore the originals of the gorgeous period clothing
we're discussing and trying to recreate were pretty nasty types. But that
doesn't mean we should emulate that.

Thanks for listening.

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer


on 6/8/04 5:28 PM, Tiffsewsstuff@aol.com at Tiffsewsstuff@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 6/8/04 3:45:17 PM Central Daylight Time,
> cvirtue+dated+1102279403.9766e9@thibault.org writes:
> I certainly wouldn't want you to feel you had to talk with people you
> hate, Bjarne.  I'll miss hearing about your beautiful projects.

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>And
>Let me tell you a little thing out there in America!...

Thank you for your input.  Your opinions have been duly noted and will be 
given all relevant consideration.  While I can not speak for all Americans, 
I know that I for one am pleased to
serve as the target for your spleen.  If you feel the need to vent such as 
this again. please feel
free to contact me off list, so that you needn't burden these people with 
your ire.

Marc Carlson

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From: Cheri Merideth <celticcheri@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Florentine Gown
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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--- Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:
> 
> It's got those wrinkles on either side of the front
> bodice that you get 
> from wearing a dress that is laced closed. It looks
> to me like the 
> lacing has been removed, or not painted in. You can
> almost see where 
> there might be rings on the sitter's right side,
> where the fabric pulls 
> just a bit out of straight.


See?  This is why you talk to other people.  I'd never
thought that the artist left off something.  Gee, why
would he?  Now that you point it out, it does look
like the fabric pulls.

I went up stairs and looked at a bodice I already had
that has a square front and closes in the front too. 
It does not work without something holding it closed,
and with your lacings in the back it's awful.  So it's
a pretty dress to look at in the painting, but I don't
think it's gonna work.

Hummmmm.  Now what?  Find my second choice?  Guess so,
off to look at 500 year old pitchures again.

In service,
Anne 
> 
> 
> Dawn
> 
> 
> 
> Lynn Downward wrote:
> 
> >  We can see
> > there's no connection between right front and left
> front bodice pieces. If
> > there were hooks from the bodices to the chemise,
> that chemise would have
> > spread apart and those lovely pleats wouldn't be
> there. It's not realistic
> > to think that the hooks and eyes go through the
> chemise to something
> > underneath the chemise.
> 
> >>
> >>I had not thought of hooks.  Interesting.  I'm not
> >>sure how that would work with the chemise.  You'd
> have
> >>to have a special one just for this dress.
> >>
> 
> >>>looks like it might be 'hooked' in a few places
> to
> >>>something hidden under
> >>>the gown bodice, throug the chemise.  Maybe the
> gown
> >>>has hooks that hooks
> >>>onto a 'pair of bodies' that is laced on,
> underneath
> >>>the chemise? 
> 
> >>>
>
>>http:/homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/secondflor/secflor25.html
> >>
> >>>>It's Moretto:Portrait of a Yound Woman, 1540's
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


=====
Go softly and gently for those you meet here will be
those you know hereafter."


	
		
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20040608175909.16908.qmail@web20509.mail.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ot America
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 18:58:00 -0400
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I guess we have two Penny's on the list now. Please do not think the message
signed "Penny" was not from me.  It was from Penny Roberts.    My email
signature always looks has my full name.

I try not to get into these kinds of discussions as this one.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Penny Roberts" <pennyrobertsho@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 1:59 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ot America


> Why thank you, you are too kind
> but could you please arrange to get me the bigger house?
> Also, my people still live overseas, both in Europe and in Asia,
> so we are part of you
> unless you are not human
> Penny
> who loves reading about costumes
> and hates generalizations


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seeking info on Breton Stitch
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 01:01:43 +0200
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Cynthia J Ley" <cley@juno.com>
(...)
> While I found a how-to diagram of the stitch, we are
> curious as to how old a stich it is. Her persona is 15th century Breton,
> and she'ld like to know if she can get away with using it.

I wish I could help you more (after all, I'm a Breton myself, though not of
the 15th century, I should know better ;)), but here is all the help I can
offer :

    - I've never heard of that stitch before (but then again I don't do
embroidery... though I wish I had the skill!), but according to an online
definition, it seems to be found on "ancient Breton costumes" : not a great
help, I grant you... but the words "Breton costumes" (in French at least)
generally refer to the heavily embroidered "traditional" costumes which
weren't worn before the beginning of the XIXth century...

    - I found a man who does traditional (XIXth century) Breton costumes...
Maybe I can ask him about this stitch for you ? He might be more familiar
with it than I am.

Feel free to write me offlist if you need more information on Breton history
or costumes, I'll be glad to help you or your friend ! Nice to see somebody
doing a Breton persona, anyway ;)


Liara

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jun  8 19:55:49 2004
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From: "Gia" <gia_gavino@comcast.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Florentine Gown
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 16:51:01 -0700
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Status: RO

Oh!  You know I hadn't thought that the artist left out painting the
lacings.  That makes sense, though.  I too was the imperceptible give-away
signs of closures of some kind.  I was thinking that maybe the chemise had
slits in it at the points where the gown could then have hooks go to a PoB
which would be hidden from view by the gown.

I thought there were a couple of allegorical portraits that showed slits in
the chemise in oddball places.  Could one of those been used?

Yes, the linen would breathe I totally agree.  However *moving around* in a
very tight garment that wouldn't necessarialy move with the body could chafe
in those spots that have more potential for moving around.  For example,
under the arms, at the waist.

Anyhow, just thinking out loud again.

It is more likely, though, that the gown is just for the portrait and maybe
not really for everyday wear.
happy stitching
Emer \ Gia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 2:51 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Florentine Gown


> Just a thought, perhaps the artist forgot to paint the lacings. If you
look
> at the opening of the chemise you can see cleavage and not PoB. As for a
> corset/PoB next to the skin, if it were made of linen it would be
> breathable.
>
> My 2 cents
> De
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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	<5.2.0.9.0.20040608143648.02835b60@mail.katiesorchids.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] determining class by clothing
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Status: RO

Katie, I recently wore something well fitted only in costume.  Modern
clothing is a different story.  As a kid, when I didn't make make my own
clothes, nothing really fit off the rack.  I might get lucky and find
something in Goodwill, old clothing, that were well made.
But as a rule the best fitted clothing I have I've made.

Kinda  a sad commentary of our clothing industry, huh?
Emer \ Gia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Katie Pleasance" <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 2:41 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] determining class by clothing


> I completely agree. The quality of construction of ready-to-wear is
> abysmal. The styling is just as bad. It's as though our society glorifies
> that which is degraded and wants to emulate it in the quality and style of
> their clothes.
>
> When was the last generation that wore well-fitted clothes? The Kennedy
> era? Anybody who grew up since then has never experienced well-fitting,
> well-tailored clothes and therefore doesn't know what it is.
>
> As always, my opinion.
>
> Katie, who has been very talkative today <g>.
>


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corset
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Status: RO

I've done a 16th c. corset with spring steel in it, and it was really 
heavy, too! The next time I make one, I want to try some natural 
stiffeners--reed or hemp, or a whalebone substitute.
I'm mostly working with my spinning at the moment, and some knitting 
(getting up the courage to start on a pair of 16th c. stockings).  I 
also have a couple of costume UFO's that need work this summer--2 
embroidered German shirts, a 10th Norse outfit (for a woman), and a 
complete 16th c. Flemish (wool and linen, all hand-sewn).  That's all 
SCA stuff.
I'd love to get back to working on my handsewn colonial outfit (mid-18th 
c. America), which I started during a couple of classes I took through 
Penny L's website, and my next big spinning project is going to be 
spinning enough yarn/thread to make myself a medieval hood in shadow 
weave, using a weaving draft from an article in a recent _Handwoven_ on 
making LoTR cloaks.  I'm going to use colors appropriate for my part of 
the world (western MT in the US), so it'll be taupes and greens, with 
some grays and blues and browns.  I'd really like to do a whole cloak, 
but I don't have a loom large enough.
Oh, and I'm working on keeping my tongue over Bjarne's intemperate 
anti-American remarks.
--sue


Shane & Sheridan wrote:

> Just finished ( I hope) putting the spring-steel boning into a new 16th C
> corset, wow it's surprisingly heavy, yet much thinner than my old one.
> 
> I'm off to go pound some grommets...
> 
> What is everyone else working on?
> 
> Sheridan


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Florentine Gown
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Status: RO

Ah, now, see....I think it very easily could be a real dress.  I'd 
interpret this as a fairly standardly-built gown, with a front-opening 
bodice that's probably normally held closed with hooks.  I'd venture, 
without further definitive evidence, that the sitter's being 
deliberately portrayed in a state of undress.  And I'm thinking that the 
gaposis width would vary with how tightly the bodice fit with the edges 
snugged up to each other....
And I bet, Lynn, you could work elements of the dress into something 
modern--perhaps using the color scheme, or the bands of trim on a 
collarless jacket, with a white shirt of some sort underneath.
As for me, I think I've finally found the dress to make to go over the 
Eternal Blackwork Camicia! Wahoo!
--sue

Lynn Downward wrote:

> I was thinking the same; this can't be a real-world dress. It's gorgeous and
> I'd love to own it, right down to the belt! (How did she do that?) However,
> the curving of a body would force the tops of the bodice apart much more
> than they are as posed, even with boning down the front unless they were
> connected to either each other or to the clothing underneath. We can see
> there's no connection between right front and left front bodice pieces. If
> there were hooks from the bodices to the chemise, that chemise would have
> spread apart and those lovely pleats wouldn't be there. It's not realistic
> to think that the hooks and eyes go through the chemise to something
> underneath the chemise. The only possible way for it to work is if the
> chemise is a fake, as the Victorians and Edwardians made, and there's no
> research I've seen or heard of to support this guess in the 1540s. Can
> anyone else think of any possible way for the front of the bodice to stay up
> like that and maintain the chemise pleats also? Except, of course, if the
> bodice was metal covered with fabric.
> 
> 
> LynnD
> Wishing I could think of a way to work that dress in the real world.


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Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2004 18:43:52 -0600
From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Florentine Gown
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PoB???
--sue

otsisto wrote:

> Just a thought, perhaps the artist forgot to paint the lacings. If you look
> at the opening of the chemise you can see cleavage and not PoB. As for a
> corset/PoB next to the skin, if it were made of linen it would be
> breathable.


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Pair of Bodies...sorry, one of my wierd typing shortcuts..

Emer \ Gia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 5:43 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Florentine Gown


> PoB???
> --sue
>

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jun  8 20:48:34 2004
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Ah HA!  I think you've nailed it with your theory.  The idea of some sort of
'state of undress' can be documented with many portraits of the the period.

I love it when we can get our heads together and find an pausible result.
Happily stitching...but goodness!  I've been rather chatty today..

Emer \ Gia
going back to lurk mode...
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 5:36 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Florentine Gown


> Ah, now, see....I think it very easily could be a real dress.  I'd
> interpret this as a fairly standardly-built gown, with a front-opening
> bodice that's probably normally held closed with hooks.  I'd venture,
> without further definitive evidence, that the sitter's being
> deliberately portrayed in a state of undress.  And I'm thinking that the
> gaposis width would vary with how tightly the bodice fit with the edges


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jun  8 20:56:24 2004
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Subject: [h-cost] international wages for textile workers
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I'd feel a whole lot better about living in America (or any developed country) if my standard of living didn't depend upon cheap wages and reduced living standards of those in other countries.

This is costume related.  Last year I went to a Greek festival and in the market there was a gentleman from India selling the most exquisitely embroidered pashmina scarves, one with embroidery very elizabethan in style, a perfect pattern for sleeves.

I've been doing quite a bit of work with Elizabethan style machine embroidery lately and probably would charge around $200 for that much machine embroidery, the scarf was selling for about 1/2 of that.  The gentleman obviously was a direct importer of the scarves and would have been able to, no doubt, organize a custom embroidery order for me.  I even took his card and thought about this option.  Get someone skilled in India to reproduce the fine embroidery for a penny, mark it up and bob's yer uncle.

Could be done, might still do it, but it bothers me greatly.  Someone in India should get paid as much as I would pay any US worker (or as much as I charge myself for my services).  I'd like to change the whole world economy so everyone had a meal, a home, a safe place to live.  What to do, what do???  I don't hate anyone, but I certaily get quite disillusioned.

Lisa Sinervo
www.thrednedlestrete.com 
             
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Please, where do I sign up for the larger house?   I live in 900 sq. feet
with 1 husband and 8 cats, and would love to live in a bigger house.  It's
true, most of my relatives are living in the United States, but some of them
died in Europe - about 60 years ago.

Did someone just attack you that you felt the need to make such a
generalization about *all* citizens of the United States?  (I make that
distinction, as I assume you are not slamming Canadians, Mexicans, or
citizens of any of the South American countries.)

Margo Glenn-Lewis

"Don't forget your bucket"
Ice Machine in the Desert - Brave Combo
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 10:52 AM
Subject: [h-cost] ot America


> And
> Let me tell you a little thing out there in America!
> I think you are spoiled people, living in big houses and letting your
> government take two much participation in european and world issue.< You
> love to be a police of the world, legt me tell you
> We hate you over here in Europe!!!
> And you are two over weight also!!
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Jacqueline Enthoven, in her "The Stitches of Creative Embroidery" (I'm
looking at the revised and enlarged edition) shows how to work a stitch she
calls the Breton stitch, as well as a variation on it called 'Point de
Veuve' or 'Vous et Moi'.  Unfortunately, she gives no history other than
stating  that it is "characteristic of the embroidery of Brittany".  Sorry I
can't be of more help here.

Margo Glenn-Lewis
"Don't forget your bucket"
Ice Machine in the Desert - Brave Combo
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cynthia J Ley" <cley@juno.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: <Cley@juno.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 1:37 PM
Subject: [h-cost] help sought in finding a stitch


> has anyone here ever heard of Breton stitch?
>
> Arlys
>
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@rogers.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] international wages for textile workers
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 22:03:48 -0400
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Greetings--

> Could be done, might still do it, but it bothers me greatly.  Someone in
India should get paid as much as I would pay any US worker (or as much as I
charge myself for my services).  I'd like to change the whole world economy
so everyone had a meal, a home, a safe place to live.  What to do, what
do???  I don't hate anyone, but I certaily get quite disillusioned.

I think you would need to look at the specific industry and the standards of
living for those workers.  For instance, there are many people in places
like India with a fairly high standard of living who are paid much less than
what we are paid in North America--this is because housing, food, etc. are
less expensive in their currency than they would be here.  There are others,
however, that work in sweatshop conditions.  I think the key is to focus on
the standard of living rather than the actual wages when determining whether
a company is treating their workers ethically (and yes, by those terms,
there are plenty of US-based companies that would fail miserably :-)

Susan



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I have mixed feelings about this issue.  I too hate to see workers in
undeveloped countries making pennies for what we here in the US would get
paid dollars.  On the other hand, aren't a lot of people in such countries
being given work now that heretofore they wouldn't have had at all because
we didn't ship so much stuff overseas to be made there until recently?

On the other other hand, because stuff is now being sent to China instead
of Mexico, the lot of many Mexicans is worse off than it was a few years
ago when the garment and other industries sent their stuff across the
border.

So is the lot of the Chinese now improving due to the increased business
we're giving them?

Sylrog

> I'd feel a whole lot better about living in America (or any developed
> country) if my standard of living didn't depend upon cheap wages and
> reduced living standards of those in other countries.
>
> This is costume related.  Last year I went to a Greek festival and in the
> market there was a gentleman from India selling the most exquisitely
> embroidered pashmina scarves, one with embroidery very elizabethan in
> style, a perfect pattern for sleeves.
>
> I've been doing quite a bit of work with Elizabethan style machine
> embroidery lately and probably would charge around $200 for that much
> machine embroidery, the scarf was selling for about 1/2 of that.  The
> gentleman obviously was a direct importer of the scarves and would have
> been able to, no doubt, organize a custom embroidery order for me.  I even
> took his card and thought about this option.  Get someone skilled in India
> to reproduce the fine embroidery for a penny, mark it up and bob's yer
> uncle.
>
> Could be done, might still do it, but it bothers me greatly.  Someone in
> India should get paid as much as I would pay any US worker (or as much as
> I charge myself for my services).  I'd like to change the whole world
> economy so everyone had a meal, a home, a safe place to live.  What to do,
> what do???  I don't hate anyone, but I certaily get quite disillusioned.
>
> Lisa Sinervo
> www.thrednedlestrete.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Florentine Gown
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-----Original Message-----
.... Besides which, this gown would probably have been worn over some sort
of kirtle layer for the green sleeves to attach to, although they could be
pinned or tied to the pinkinsh dress, personally I think this is less
likely.

Cheers,
Danielle

The sleeves would be connected to the pink dress. There are other portraits
that have a similar style. It is usually tied not laced in front. I'll see
if can find other examples.
The more I look at this picture the more I think the painter forgot to paint
the ties on.

De

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-----Original Message-----

has anyone here ever heard of Breton stitch?

Arlys

Try:

http://www.crosscountryshopping.com/special%20stitches/brenton.htm

If you have access to french embroidery you will probably find more info on
it there.

Good luck,
De

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S'okay! About 2 seconds after I hit "send," I thought, "well, duh! pair 
of...."
*sigh*
--sue

Gia wrote:
> Pair of Bodies...sorry, one of my wierd typing shortcuts..
> 
> Emer \ Gia
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 5:43 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Florentine Gown
> 
> 
> 
>>PoB???
>>--sue

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Florentine Gown
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>I had not thought of hooks.  Interesting.  I'm not
>sure how that would work with the chemise.  You'd have
>to have a special one just for this dress.  

If there were hooks, they'd pull, and the pulling would show.

>I'm just wondering if this is just a "pose dress" and
>not practical for acutally wearing.?  I'd hate to make
>it and find out all I can do while wearing it is to
>sit on my bum and look pretty.  haha!

My guess is that the sitter is so flat chested that she could sit still in
the dress and not have it fall open.  Otherwise, on my body, I'd have to
hook/lace it shut in front.  I believe it's otherwise a real dress.  There
are other portraits of similar gowns.

       CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
         www.FunStuft.com

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Hi Heidi,

I'm behind in my email, but I don't think you got a response to your
questions.  I wanted to recommend that you consider joining the
GermanRenCostume listserv, which is a Yahoo Group.  I recently joined and
have been impressed by the level of knowledge of this group (plus the list
has extensive files and archives that you can search).  There's lots of
people on this list doing the same period that you're interested in, and I
think you'll get some great help there!

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GermanRenCostume/

Good luck,

Kendra
http://demode.tweedlebop.com/

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Heidi Fox" <mudsleidi@cox.net>

> Hello folks,
>
> I will be constructing a gown in this style
> http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/c/cranach/lucas_e/9/04judith.html  for a
friend.
>
> I have some questions about the bodice and skirt construction:

<snip>

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Janet,

Many films are shot in right-to-work states like Virginia and North Carolina
to avoid the union issue.  You might want to check into that if you are
interested in costuming for films.  You can advertise or be listed in the
Virginia Film Commission catalog for a small fee.  This catalog goes out to
several places over the country.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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-----Original Message-----
I've done a 16th c. corset with spring steel in it, and it was really
heavy, too! The next time I make one, I want to try some natural
stiffeners--reed or hemp, or a whalebone substitute.

_____
May I recommend rolled linen instead of hemp, as hemp has a tendency to
shrink when wet.

De

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Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2004 22:21:46 -0700
From: Connie / Jacyntha <Jacyntha@shaw.ca>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Request for Assistance - 1920's & 1930's
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I need, on a very short time frame, some pictures of what urban Caucasian
Canadian (but I'll take American if need be) women, men and adolescents
(14-18 yr. old) were wearing from 1920 through 1940.

I'm sure there are many web sites out there, but because of the short time
frame I thought I'd ask the experts!

Thank you all for your time,
Connie

aka Jacyntha


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-----Original Message-----

Delurking to agree with you both here.  This aspect of recent culture
pervades more than just clothing, when you consider where the majority of
Americans spend their cash.

I'd like some crap, please, and could you Supersize that for me?

Cheers,
Heidi

___
I am one who worked at one of the better quality McD's and sometimes get
irked at such comments, even if not directed at the company.
I guess you haven't been to the NY McD's where they have a doorperson in
formal attire, a host/hostess in a casual suit, piano player, marble table
tops, silver plate coffee server.

De

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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] to America
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I rarely just into discussions like this, but I feel I need address the
topic.  And yes, I will bring this discussion into the costuming message.

I am really surprised and hurt by these insults on Americans from you
Bjarne.  I really had thought better of you.  When people make insults on
others countries, it is generally because of lack of experience of travel
and/or education.  Americans are from every country in North and South
America, my latest count today... that is 36 countries in North America and
15 countries in South America.  From my own personal experience is a visit
to England.  The British were extremely nice and had several questions about
what it was like in the U.S. And I had a lot of questions for them about
living in England.  I feel very confident sending my son to England to
college, that they will welcome him with open arms.  The British won me over
during my trip.  I have not traveled all over the world but I speak to
people daily from several countries.  My husband has traveled numerous times
all over Europe and Asia.  He only has wonderful things to say about the
people that he has met.  He never felt like they harbored ill feelings
towards U.S. citizens. Most people are curious about what it is really like
living in the U.S.

My husband spent four years in the U.S. military and the last 18 years
working on a contract for the U.S. government.  He spent over 10 years of
the 18 traveling all over the world, teaching how to improve our troops and
international troops.  He has taught on 4 continents, North America, Europe,
Asia, and multi-national peace-keeping troops in Egypt, Africa.  My children
and myself went through great sacrifices for him to teach these troops
around the world.  My kids only saw their Dad a couple of weeks here and
there for ten years. During his travels, the lodging, airfares, etc. ... the
U.S. govt. paid for.  He did not receive extra pay or benefits for this,
other than for accommodations and frequent flyer mileage. We believe that
the work he does helps improve the world.

On top of this, we have had several family members who went to Europe and
fought in World War I and II to make Europe a safer place to live. My own
father was in WWI.  And I am sure there are plenty h-costumers whose family
members who did the same from several countries to help Europe.  So please,
don't go there, with that we are greedy, self absorbed Americans.  For the
past century, we have always been there to help countries.  BTW, when the
World Trade Center was attacked it was just an attack on the U.S. There were
people working in the buildings from around the world.  It was an attack on
the world's economy.  And for the attack on DC... anyone who has been to
Washington can tell you that there are more tourists on the DC Mall and
visiting the Capitol than citizens of the U.S.  Imagine how many
international tourists would have been killed if that last plane would not
have been stopped.

As for big houses and fat Americans... I am genetically tall and thin, and
my husband is genetically tall and stout.   I live in a big house, not a
mansion.  I am not ashamed to say it.  We worked very hard for 20 years to
buy a nice house.  Neither my husband nor I were given a hand-outs from our
parents or inherited money.  My father was a poor fisherman/farmer whose
highest level in school was 3rd grade.  My husband's father was a poor
carpenter who completed the second grade.  Our parents stressed to all their
children that if you want the *American Dream,* to work hard and get a good
education.  Just like most parents in this country.  Over the past 26 years
of our marriage, my husband or I have been in college.  Last year my
husband, and two of our kids were in college, all at the same time.  We
borrowed money from the government to go to college and repay the loans
every month.  The reason there is a larger middle class in the U.S. is that
since the 1970s the government will loan any U.S. citizen financial aid to
go to college.  Before that time, only people with families who had money or
scholarships went to college.  Presently, all U.S. citizens have that
opportunity.  My Mom's favorite saying, "When you stop learning, you die."

Bringing this into a costuming ream...
If the rest of the world is not interested in what the U.S. does...  here
are some cold hard statistics from my websites, which are primarily about
American fashion history.  The sites are visited on a monthly average by
people from 140 countries for the past six months.  That's how long I have
been keeping geographic demographic statistics.  That is 60% of the
countries in the world.  The remaining countries are third world countries
that do not have the internet OR at war.  Of our third-world country
visitors they are educators or librarians accessing from their school and
wanting to know about American culture (principally American and Canada).
Now if you think all of Denmark shares your views about the U.S., go search
Google, and see how many Danish libraries are referencing or referring my
websites.  I think you will be surprised. In the accounting period, we have
ranged between 310 to 502 unique visitors monthly from Denmark.  Your
country ranks sixth in our European visitors.  Out of the 46 countries in
Europe, we have received monthly 37 to 39 countries representing visitors to
my website in the past 6 months.  European country visitation rank order
respectively: England, Germany, Netherlands, France, Sweden, and Denmark.

Your message today, reminded me of an international marketing professor I
had in college.  He said, "Global marketing will never work."  This made me
more determined to make global marketing work.  Education and hard work is
the key to this problem.  That is why we are translating the website into
other languages and adding articles/books online from other countries.  I
spend a lot of time on eBay looking for publications and photos from other
countries. Also, I receive and send money all over the world.  The money and
the language barriers are the main reasons my professor said global
marketing would not work.  Boy, did I prove him wrong.

I think we live in a very wonderful time in history, where because of the
internet, we all can talk daily to people around the world.  We learn about
one another's cultures and come to an understanding and respect our
differences and similarities.  I recall when a group of us, first meet a
lady online from Scotland.  She found out that I lived in *the South* of the
U.S.  She thought I lived in a house live Tara in Gone with the Wind.  We
joked with her and sent her images of Old South plantation homes and told
her that is where we lived.  Everyone, including the lady from Scotland,
thought this was so funny and we all had a good laugh.  My point is...
please don't judge people by what you see in movies or on television.

Most U.S. citizens don't look like or keep house like Roseanne.  It was a
popular U.S. television show on the BBC when I was in London. The men are
not Archer Bunker or Rhett Butler. We all don't live or look like Scarlett
O'Hara or Martha Stewart.  We live in a country where at least 90% of the
people go to work 40 a week, worry about our children's grades in school,
and how to pay the bills.  Just like most people in first and second world
countries.  We do elect our govt. officials and we oust them when we don't
like them, like the former California governor or half of Richmond, VA's
city council. (Just using them as an example).  My husband just so happens
to work for the federal government, but fed. govt. and the state of Virginia
(VA) are our largest employers in our state.  The largest business employers
in VA are probably AOL and Phillip Morris.  About 50% of our neighborhood
works for some type of govt. (county, city, state, or federal) and the other
half work at Philip Morris.  Probably 85% of our neighborhood residents hold
a Bachelor's degree and their children go to college on government loans.
No doctor's, lawyers, judges, or elected govt. officials in living in my
neighborhood... but a lot of school teachers, police, fireworkers, and govt.
paper pushers.

I hope this helps you understand how U.S. citizens live.  We really aren't
what you see on TV or in the movies.  If you ever want to see how fake TV
and the movies are, come visit me, and I will take you to a set.
Productions usually are going on between May-Oct.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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Subject: [h-cost] Please, enough with the politics!
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Please, everyone, can we get past the political discussion/flamewar at
this point? There's a time and a place for such things, and this list is
neither of those.

Ingrid
- with strong opinions on the subject that I'm going to keep to
myself in this forum.

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From: Lena Strid <lstrid@mglarc.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE: medieval underwear, coloured 
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 10:33:26 +0100 
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>>From: Lena Strid <lstrid@mglarc.com>
>>Marc, if you want more examples of breeches, let me know. I've collected
>>quite a few images for my underwear lecture.
>
>Please.  I'd be interested in any sort of input.  thank you.

Marc, contact me privately on what kind of images you want, format etc.

>>> It is interesting to note that shoes and body garments like breeches and
>>>shirts are not mentioned in any of the estate inventories I've ever seen.
>>There are some undergarments mentioned in Swedish wills.
>
>thus underscoring why I said to be skeptical when people say anything
>definatively -- even me :)

But you only said that _you_ hadn't seen any - not that they didn't exist...
:-)
 
/Lena


=================================================
Margaret Gowen & Co. Ltd.
Archaeological Consultants & Project Managers
2 Killiney View                   Tel: 01-2300433
Albert Road Lower                 Fax: 01-2300865
Glenageary         e-mail: archaeology@mglarc.com
Co. Dublin	   website: http://www.mglarc.com
=================================================

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OK, I admit it!  I can't recall what PoB stands for!

Nancy
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Corset
Message-ID: <1086785823.40c7091f4dcef@webmail.soton.ac.uk>
Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2004 13:57:03 +0100 (BST)
From: Hilary Davidson <hbgd103@soton.ac.uk>
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I've just done a handstitched 16th c. corset too, but used bents. they're brilliant, so light 
but fully supportive. I started a mock up one with flat steel, and far prefer the bents. Now 
I'm working on the accompanying farthingale.


On Wednesday, June 9, 2004, at 05:27  am, otsisto wrote:

-----Original Message-----
I've done a 16th c. corset with spring steel in it, and it was really
heavy, too! The next time I make one, I want to try some natural
stiffeners--reed or hemp, or a whalebone substitute.



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ideas for charging for services
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Thank you Penny!  I'll look into this.

Emer \ Gia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 9:08 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ideas for charging for services


> Janet,
>
> Many films are shot in right-to-work states like Virginia and North
Carolina
> to avoid the union issue.  You might want to check into that if you are
> interested in costuming for films.  You can advertise or be listed in the
> Virginia Film Commission catalog for a small fee.  This catalog goes out
to
> several places over the country.
>
> Penny E. Ladnier
> Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
> www.costumegallery.com
> www.costumeclassroom.com
>
>
> [This E-mail was scanned for viruses by Plugit.com Virus Scanners
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>
> _______________________________________________
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>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corset
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Um..Bents...(thinking hard)..are those kind of like willow or some other
basket weaving type things?  I've heard of it before...but dang if I can
remember...

Coffee...I need coffee...

Emer \ Gia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Hilary Davidson" <hbgd103@soton.ac.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2004 5:57 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Corset


> I've just done a handstitched 16th c. corset too, but used bents. they're
brilliant, so light
> but fully supportive. I started a mock up one with flat steel, and far
prefer the bents. Now
> I'm working on the accompanying farthingale.
>
>
> On Wednesday, June 9, 2004, at 05:27  am, otsisto wrote:
>
> -----Original Message-----
> I've done a 16th c. corset with spring steel in it, and it was really
> heavy, too! The next time I make one, I want to try some natural
> stiffeners--reed or hemp, or a whalebone substitute.
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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From: Janet Renzetti <celtic_dragonrider@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ideas for charging for services
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Penny
 
But aren't they looking at American costumers? not Canadian.  I live in Vancouver, BC.  My stuff can be shipped, but would they consider that?  ALso I specialize is the SCA time periods (Elizabethan and back), not a lot o call for that.  THey are filming Earthsea here and they already have their Union people.  
 
Janet

Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote:
Janet,

Many films are shot in right-to-work states like Virginia and North Carolina
to avoid the union issue. You might want to check into that if you are
interested in costuming for films. You can advertise or be listed in the
Virginia Film Commission catalog for a small fee. This catalog goes out to
several places over the country.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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From: Janet Renzetti <celtic_dragonrider@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] international wages for textile workers
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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This is a delicate subject, but if you look at the the financial end.  They talk about families making $1/day to live or whattever it is, you need to look at the cost of living.  I went to RUssia and their dollar is lower, but their markets are also lower.  SImilar items we would spend $$$$$ for they have for significantly less, the government tries to support the economy of th people in little ways.(Hard to put to words this early in the morning after working)
 
Janet

sylvia@ntw.net wrote:
I have mixed feelings about this issue. I too hate to see workers in
undeveloped countries making pennies for what we here in the US would get
paid dollars. On the other hand, aren't a lot of people in such countries
being given work now that heretofore they wouldn't have had at all because
we didn't ship so much stuff overseas to be made there until recently?

On the other other hand, because stuff is now being sent to China instead
of Mexico, the lot of many Mexicans is worse off than it was a few years
ago when the garment and other industries sent their stuff across the
border.

So is the lot of the Chinese now improving due to the increased business
we're giving them?

Sylrog

> I'd feel a whole lot better about living in America (or any developed
> country) if my standard of living didn't depend upon cheap wages and
> reduced living standards of those in other countries.
>
> This is costume related. Last year I went to a Greek festival and in the
> market there was a gentleman from India selling the most exquisitely
> embroidered pashmina scarves, one with embroidery very elizabethan in
> style, a perfect pattern for sleeves.
>
> I've been doing quite a bit of work with Elizabethan style machine
> embroidery lately and probably would charge around $200 for that much
> machine embroidery, the scarf was selling for about 1/2 of that. The
> gentleman obviously was a direct importer of the scarves and would have
> been able to, no doubt, organize a custom embroidery order for me. I even
> took his card and thought about this option. Get someone skilled in India
> to reproduce the fine embroidery for a penny, mark it up and bob's yer
> uncle.
>
> Could be done, might still do it, but it bothers me greatly. Someone in
> India should get paid as much as I would pay any US worker (or as much as
> I charge myself for my services). I'd like to change the whole world
> economy so everyone had a meal, a home, a safe place to live. What to do,
> what do??? I don't hate anyone, but I certaily get quite disillusioned.
>
> Lisa Sinervo
> www.thrednedlestrete.com
>
> _______________________________________________
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corset
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Really? I hadn't thought of that...maybe I'll have to do some "field 
tests," especially since I've already got the hemp (purchased a couple 
of years ago from a hemp merchant online).  I'm not sure if it'll be 
stiffening for a corded bodice or a corset....
I've thought of using rolled linen (or something similar) as stiffening 
for a farthingale, as I've heard of that being used....
--sue

otsisto wrote:
> -----Original Message-----
> I've done a 16th c. corset with spring steel in it, and it was really
> heavy, too! The next time I make one, I want to try some natural
> stiffeners--reed or hemp, or a whalebone substitute.
> 
> _____
> May I recommend rolled linen instead of hemp, as hemp has a tendency to
> shrink when wet.
> 
> De
> 

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Request for Assistance - 1920's & 1930's
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I would look at Dover's Fashions from the Sears Catalog series. They
have one for the 1920's and one for the 1930's.

Kim

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Connie / Jacyntha
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2004 12:22 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Request for Assistance - 1920's & 1930's


I need, on a very short time frame, some pictures of what urban
Caucasian Canadian (but I'll take American if need be) women, men and
adolescents (14-18 yr. old) were wearing from 1920 through 1940.

I'm sure there are many web sites out there, but because of the short
time frame I thought I'd ask the experts!

Thank you all for your time,
Connie

aka Jacyntha


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jun  9 09:36:01 2004
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Subject: [h-cost] Please Read - note from the list admin
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I was hoping this was only a brief thing that would blow over quickly,
but I don't see that happening.  I am therefore requesting as the list
owner that people return to on-topic discussions on the list.  I also
hope that people will return to moving the conversations forward in a
positive manner.

Thanks.
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-- 
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Request for Assistance - 1920's & 1930's
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Kim
 
What type of life are we talking about.  My grandmother grew up in the city and my grandfather on the farm, both in Moosejaw Sask.  I'd say look at the depression and Bonnie and CLyde.  They are good.  SHirley Temple clothes for some of the shows like Baby take a Bow and others that she is playing a "modern" role.  Back then everyone was wearing that type of stuff.  If you look at close on the American side that are close to Canadian borders then you can get an idea if you an't find anything else.  I woldn't be able to smuggle any photos on the site, but I can describe a few.  Certainly take a look at those shows to get an idea.
 
Janet

kim baird <kbaird@cableone.net> wrote:
I would look at Dover's Fashions from the Sears Catalog series. They
have one for the 1920's and one for the 1930's.

Kim

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Connie / Jacyntha
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2004 12:22 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Request for Assistance - 1920's & 1930's


I need, on a very short time frame, some pictures of what urban
Caucasian Canadian (but I'll take American if need be) women, men and
adolescents (14-18 yr. old) were wearing from 1920 through 1940.

I'm sure there are many web sites out there, but because of the short
time frame I thought I'd ask the experts!

Thank you all for your time,
Connie

aka Jacyntha


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From: Janet Renzetti <celtic_dragonrider@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ideas for charging for services
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Gia
 
I completely agree with that for a properly fitted outfit.  An outfit that doesn't matter so much you have flexibility with.  An ELizabethan does not.  If it doesn't fit right then it is a disaster.
 
JAnet

Gia <gia_gavino@comcast.net> wrote:
Anne, that is so true! The look on their faces when I tell them (after I've
measured them) that they have to come in to fit the pattern and then the
muslin toile *before* I'll cut the fashion fabric is just too funny!

Apparently the folks who've 'bartered' with them before just took the
measurements and hoped for the best. *grin*. I don't do things that way.
This has been a very good thing because whenever I need a 'favor' I know
they will be prompt in volunteering, they *know* that I'll do a really good
barter.

Happy stitching!
Emer \ Gia
>
> Plus, you get to have that human graditude that is
> sometimes much better than cash.
>
> In service,
> Anne
>
>


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Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 09:40:39 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] help sought in finding a stitch
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thanks, De. :-)

On Tue, 8 Jun 2004 22:16:34 -0500 "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net> writes:
> -----Original Message-----
> 
> has anyone here ever heard of Breton stitch?
> 
> Arlys
> 
> Try:
> 
> http://www.crosscountryshopping.com/special%20stitches/brenton.htm
> 
> If you have access to french embroidery you will probably find more 
> info on it there.
> 
> Good luck,
> De
> 
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Greetings all,
I have added a couple days in Milan to my trip this summer.  Does 
anyone have any suggestions for where to find spiffy textiles or 
"stuff" in Milan.  I'm not a big shopper for fashion items, but would 
like to buy fabric-y gifts for my SCA friends.  :D

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
Thanks!

Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com

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Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 09:42:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: Janet Renzetti <celtic_dragonrider@yahoo.ca>
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I have seen people use bamboo, tiny sticks of them bunched together.  THey say it is more comfortable, light, and breathes.  I haven't tried it personally though.
 
JAnet

otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
-----Original Message-----
I've done a 16th c. corset with spring steel in it, and it was really
heavy, too! The next time I make one, I want to try some natural
stiffeners--reed or hemp, or a whalebone substitute.

_____
May I recommend rolled linen instead of hemp, as hemp has a tendency to
shrink when wet.

De

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ideas for charging for services
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Hi Gia
 
YOu need to meet a bunch of requirements ( what diploma in textiles do you have, how many years have you been working in the field paid and volunteer (I think it was a minimum of 1 year, but I think I read 3 years somewhere too), how many years did you do film/theater costumes, etc) then there are other ones that go in another section.  FOllowing this they need portfolios of you designs, recommends, bring in pieces of your work, resume, then there is a fee.  THis is just to get permit status.  LAter after several movies under your belt you wil be permitted to receive full union status.  THere are hundreds of permit status people already signed in.
 
FOr me, self taught and multi-generation seamstress, then no time to volunteer, etc.  I just thought I didn't want to go through with that.  I would loose my focus and consider sewing a job not fun and stress relief.  THe creativity of making garb brings out a character, whether I wear the outfit or someone else wears it.  THat is the real reason I sew, not to fight the masses to make costumes for others and feel stress out and used (even for a couple of years to break in).
 
The problem is that Vancouver is a hot spot for film and theater right now, so everyone is trying to cash in on it and with the overabundance of talent, they have to strain them somehow.  It is HIGHLY competitive and can be rthless (I grew up in theater and film and came back to the film as an extra in the last couple of years, I have experienced this first hand), we work front and back stage.  MY sister graduated from film school and has her own company, but decided ot to continue because a little person isn;t going to get anywhere until you are know, and then we come back to the union and volunteer thing again.
 
JAnet

Gia <gia_gavino@comcast.net> wrote:
Oh, I didn't know! Thank you for sharing that information. Hmmm. Janet,
how does one get into a costuming union? I certainly can NOT afford to
volunteer my services.

Emer \ Gia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Janet Renzetti" 
To: "Historical Costume" 
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 12:45 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ideas for charging for services


> Part of the problem with costuminf for theater or movies is that you must
be in he costuming union for that. If you aren't in there then it is highly
unlikely that you will get called or paid. I was told to get into it
without all the paperwork that you must volunteer your time. THat is fine
when it is regular street clothes, but come on. The number of hours it
takes for 1 period costume let alone an entie cast is not worth it for a
single mother who needs to ay the bills and put food on the table. It is a
brutal side of the industry, the politics.


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Thank you anyway.That's where my friend found it. :-)

Arlys

On Tue, 8 Jun 2004 19:16:32 -0700 "Margo Glenn-Lewis"
<nomadmt@pacbell.net> writes:
> Jacqueline Enthoven, in her "The Stitches of Creative Embroidery" 
> (I'm
> looking at the revised and enlarged edition) shows how to work a 
> stitch she
> calls the Breton stitch, as well as a variation on it called 'Point 
> de
> Veuve' or 'Vous et Moi'.  Unfortunately, she gives no history other 
> than
> stating  that it is "characteristic of the embroidery of Brittany".  
> Sorry I
> can't be of more help here.
> 
> Margo Glenn-Lewis


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corset
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I used stuff exactly like what is used in brooms,(the ones with heads about a foot and a 
half long and straw-coloured, not the flatter kind). I found it in an african grocery store, 
and it cost 50p for a huge bundle! Enough for three or four corsets. 

I'd be interested in trying the rolled fabric way of stiffening for the fathingale, because it's 
Not Fun wrestling with yards of damp willow for the hoops. But it's been an interesting 
process of discovery with it, and had radically changed my ideas on its purpose and 
construction. 


<Really? I hadn't thought of that...maybe I'll have to do some "field tests," especially since 
I've already got the hemp (purchased a couple of years ago from a hemp merchant 
online).  I'm not sure if it'll be stiffening for a corded bodice or a corset....
I've thought of using rolled linen (or something similar) as stiffening for a farthingale, as 
I've heard of that being used....
--sue>

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Corset
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 07:42:39 -0700
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Gia

I've put some of the costume related pages from Gerard's Herbal on line at
http://www.thrednedlestrete.com/publications/Gerard/gerard.htm

you will find reeds and rushes.  If anyone knows if these were the varieties
of grasses used for stiffening I would be most interested in hearing so.
The pages are all images so they will load slowly.  The book is from the
early 1600's.

Lisa Sinervo


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Gia
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2004 6:16 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corset


Um..Bents...(thinking hard)..are those kind of like willow or some other
basket weaving type things?  I've heard of it before...but dang if I can
remember...

Coffee...I need coffee...

Emer \ Gia
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Request for Assistance - 1920's &1930's
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>>>>>>>
I need, on a very short time frame, some pictures of what urban Caucasian
> Canadian (but I'll take American if need be) women, men and adolescents
> (14-18 yr. old) were wearing from 1920 through 1940.
> >>>>>>>

Not a website, but if you have a good-sized bookstore handy take a look at 
Everyday Fashions Of The Twenties from Dover Books.  American fashions, but I 
believe Sears (a major source for that book) shipped to Canada as well.  I don't 
have the Thirties and Forties books yet, but if they're anything like the 
Twenties book they would be good references as well.

Leah
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References: <IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPKEMBCIAA.otsisto@socket.net>	<40C65D48.8080603@in-tch.com><000501c44dba$b7c519a0$b7f51018@archaeosoft1>
	<40C6872A.2020902@in-tch.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Florentine Gown, solution?
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 12:27:43 -0500
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A while back, during one of the many discussions of "How does this bodice
stay in place?" I busted out the graphics program, and zoomed in on the best
resolution version of this image I could find. And I'm pretty sure I found
the nice, simple solution to what's going on here.

Look at the top of the gap, where you see the chemise tied. Zoom in, and you
see a fuzzy little triangle, that depicts where the chemise laces go. Now,
this may be hard to follow, because it's not easy for me to describe it
without hand gestures, but it's really easy when you test it out:

1) The chemise has ties. These are knotted, and one of the ends is left
really long.

2) That long end goes to one corner of the bodice, and passes through it
somehow (see below). Then it goes across to the other corner. This describes
two sides of that fuzzy triangle of lacing that you see.

3) The long end goes back up to the original knot made to close the chemise,
and is knotted with the original short end. There are now two ends hanging
down: the original short end, and the formerly long end which is now short
as well.

Notice, also, that the reddish edges of the gap in the bodice are doubled;
there are two layers on each side there. This is what it looks like when I
make a hidden lacing closure; I think that normally, this dress laced closed
with a separate and hidden internal lacing. However, in this undress
portrait, the chemise lace acts as a makeshift, to hold the bodice up and
closed while still giving the air of dishabile. In other words, I don't
think the dress would normally have been worn as shown; however, as shown,
it does 'work' in the sense that the bodice is not being held up by sheer
artistic convention, but rather by a functional, if misused, chemise lace.

I've uploaded a zoomed-in (3x, with no pixel interpolation) detail of the
painting, and a version tracing the line I see the chemise cord following:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/florentineclosure1.jpg (unedited zoom)
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/florentineclosure2.jpg (tracing of the
cord--the squiggles indicate the first and second knots, with the lower
squiggle probably being the first knot and the upper one being the second)

If anyone has a chemise that closes with ties and a bodice with internal
lacing holes, try it! It really does work.

-E

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I live in Winnipeg, Manitoba where there is a lot of filming going on, both large and small budget. I have done some costume work and personally I found that no matter how much money they throw at you, it's not worth it. In my experience, and this is not universal, Work in the movies has to be done yesterday; and unless you are waiting by the phone with nothing else in your life, it's really difficult.

For example:
I got a call to make an "Elizabethan" corset on Tues., they gave me her measurements from 5 years and 2 kids ago. 
I met her Wed. 9pm for my one fitting.
The finished corset was handed in Fri. afternoon and given to the embroiderer/beader.
The piece was on set Sat. at 7am.


Wendy
www.hecate.ca/emma/

"It (the Eiffel Tower) looked very different from the Statue of Liberty, but what did that matter? What was the good of having the statue without the liberty?"
Josephine Baker

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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: PoB
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 07:12:49 -0700
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Post office box??  I missed that message.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of MaddNancy@aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2004 3:01 AM
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> Subject: [h-cost] Re: PoB
> 
> OK, I admit it!  I can't recall what PoB stands for!
> 
> Nancy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] wool (washing)
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Possibly, but not for anything I've thought of yet. See, the problem is that
sewing this stuff is, no kidding, like sewing foam; the stitches sink deep,
but you can't pull them tight, and no matter what you do the seam looks
awful. So it's basically only good for something that requires no sewing, or
only whipstitching the egdes. It hasn't gone to waste yet; I've still got it
hanging around, and I've actually found a use for a small part of it: I'm
making a man's cote from c1475 (ok, so I haven't worked on it in at least a
year, but I'll get back to it one of these days), and using the superfulled
wool to pad my rib cage into a pigeon-breasted male shape. =} Hey, there's
an extant example where they used linen in the same way...

-E (winter coat, winter cote...)

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au>


> Could you use it for millinery? if it really is as stiff as cardboard it
> could be perfect for a stiff type of hat (I'm thinking of a 19th century
> bonnet as that's what I've been looking at lately, but I expect whatever
> time period you prefer has some sort of stiff felted wool hat) I just hate
> the thought of wool going to waste like that.
> Elizabeth

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] international wages for textile workers
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I think the fact that in these areas, jobs of any sort are often scarce
should not be forgotten. Jobs that a lot of Americans would consider
'sweatshop jobs' are highly prized and generally have dozens or even
hundreds more applicants than there are openings. Would you rather employ
people who could easily find another job for the same wage in the 1st world,
and wouldn't starve even if they couldn't find any job at all, or would you
rather employ someone who has very few other options, and may be in serious
trouble if they don't find work?

-E (spent her childhood in a 3rd world country)

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2004 18:33:20  0000
From: "Danielle Nunn-Weinberg" <dannw@eudoramail.com>
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Pair of bodies was what I took it to mean.

Cheers,
Danielle

--------- Original Message ---------
>OK, I admit it!  I can't recall what PoB stands for!
>
>Nancy


Need a new email address that people can remember
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 11:38 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] weddingdress


>
> I am meting her in person in a material shop this afternoon.
> I already told her that she had to pay me 3000. kr. in danish to make this
> dress. including hoops and corset bones. She has to pay for the material
> besides this!
>
> Bjarne

The most popular way of charging for professional dressmaking is to start
from a skilled wage for most jobs, e.g. if you were working in an office how
much would you be paid? and use the same hourly rate for your job, it's only
fair that you get paid for your sewing skill just as much as you would be
paid for your skills on a computer. A friend of mine uses a stopwatch to
time how long she spends doing each task and then gives that information to
the customer to justify the total she charges. On top of that charge them
for any materials you have to buy, e.g. cheap fabric for test fittings,
boning, lining, thread etc.and include the time you spend shopping for those
things in your hourly rate (if you need to mail order things like corset
bones make sure you include the cost of postage). If you can tell your
customer exactly what you are charging them for it's hard for them to get
upset at you for charging a normal wage.
Elizabeth
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
Elizabeth Beaumont              Elizabeth Walpole
Politarchopolis, Lochac     Canberra Australia
             ewalpole@austar.net.au

People are like stained glass windows. They sparkle and shine when the sun
is out, but when the darkness sets in ,their true beauty is revealed only if
there is light from within.
Elizabeth Kubler-Ross

The years that a woman subtracts from her age are not lost. They are added
to the ages of other women.
Diane de Poitiers (1499-1566) Attrib.

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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: PoB
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 15:50:23 -0500
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Correct.

De

-----Original Message-----
Pair of bodies was what I took it to mean.

Cheers,
Danielle

--------- Original Message ---------
>OK, I admit it!  I can't recall what PoB stands for!
>
>Nancy


costume
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Florentine Gown, solution?
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 16:42:36 -0400
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By Jove, I think you've got it!

Dianne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2004 1:27 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Florentine Gown, solution?


> A while back, during one of the many discussions of "How does this bodice
> stay in place?" I busted out the graphics program, and zoomed in on the
best
> resolution version of this image I could find. And I'm pretty sure I found
> the nice, simple solution to what's going on here.
>
> Look at the top of the gap, where you see the chemise tied. Zoom in, and
you
> see a fuzzy little triangle, that depicts where the chemise laces go. Now,
> this may be hard to follow, because it's not easy for me to describe it
> without hand gestures, but it's really easy when you test it out:
>
> 1) The chemise has ties. These are knotted, and one of the ends is left
> really long.
>
> 2) That long end goes to one corner of the bodice, and passes through it
> somehow (see below). Then it goes across to the other corner. This
describes
> two sides of that fuzzy triangle of lacing that you see.
>
> 3) The long end goes back up to the original knot made to close the
chemise,
> and is knotted with the original short end. There are now two ends hanging
> down: the original short end, and the formerly long end which is now short
> as well.
>
> Notice, also, that the reddish edges of the gap in the bodice are doubled;
> there are two layers on each side there. This is what it looks like when I
> make a hidden lacing closure; I think that normally, this dress laced
closed
> with a separate and hidden internal lacing. However, in this undress
> portrait, the chemise lace acts as a makeshift, to hold the bodice up and
> closed while still giving the air of dishabile. In other words, I don't
> think the dress would normally have been worn as shown; however, as shown,
> it does 'work' in the sense that the bodice is not being held up by sheer
> artistic convention, but rather by a functional, if misused, chemise lace.
>
> I've uploaded a zoomed-in (3x, with no pixel interpolation) detail of the
> painting, and a version tracing the line I see the chemise cord following:
> http://www.formfunction.org/temp/florentineclosure1.jpg (unedited zoom)
> http://www.formfunction.org/temp/florentineclosure2.jpg (tracing of the
> cord--the squiggles indicate the first and second knots, with the lower
> squiggle probably being the first knot and the upper one being the second)
>
> If anyone has a chemise that closes with ties and a bodice with internal
> lacing holes, try it! It really does work.
>
> -E
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: Penny Roberts <pennyrobertsho@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] PoB
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Ok so POB is Pair of Bodies but what is that?
 

		
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Florentine Gown, solution?
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 16:00:29 -0500
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I think you have something! I don't think it is laced as you describe it. I
think that the ties for the camicia are even and go to the corner opposite
of each other. The right goes to the left corner and the left corner goes to
the right and it ties in front. I don't think this is a quick fix, I think
it is a way of tying the bodice, not a common way but a way none the less.
It is from the thickness of the bodice that I though that there wasn't a
PoB, so I concluded that the painter forgot to paint the ties in until you
pointed out your discovery.
By the way, The portrait says it is Venice why are people calling it
Florentine?

De

-----Original Message-----
A while back, during one of the many discussions of "How does this bodice
stay in place?" I busted out the graphics program, and zoomed in on the best
resolution version of this image I could find. And I'm pretty sure I found
the nice, simple solution to what's going on here.

Look at the top of the gap, where you see the chemise tied. Zoom in, and you
see a fuzzy little triangle, that depicts where the chemise laces go. Now,
this may be hard to follow, because it's not easy for me to describe it
without hand gestures, but it's really easy when you test it out:

1) The chemise has ties. These are knotted, and one of the ends is left
really long.

2) That long end goes to one corner of the bodice, and passes through it
somehow (see below). Then it goes across to the other corner. This describes
two sides of that fuzzy triangle of lacing that you see.

3) The long end goes back up to the original knot made to close the chemise,
and is knotted with the original short end. There are now two ends hanging
down: the original short end, and the formerly long end which is now short
as well.

Notice, also, that the reddish edges of the gap in the bodice are doubled;
there are two layers on each side there. This is what it looks like when I
make a hidden lacing closure; I think that normally, this dress laced closed
with a separate and hidden internal lacing. However, in this undress
portrait, the chemise lace acts as a makeshift, to hold the bodice up and
closed while still giving the air of dishabile. In other words, I don't
think the dress would normally have been worn as shown; however, as shown,
it does 'work' in the sense that the bodice is not being held up by sheer
artistic convention, but rather by a functional, if misused, chemise lace.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: PoB
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In a message dated 6/9/04 5:02:02 AM Central Daylight Time, MaddNancy@aol.com 
writes:
OK, I admit it!  I can't recall what PoB stands for!

Nancy


Bless you for saying that Nancy ... I don't know if I ever knew to begin 
with!!! LOL  ::racking what's left of my brain::

-Tiffany
Non vestimentum virum ornat, sed vir vestimentum.
*******************************
Reflections*of*Worth
http://stores.ebay.com/Reflections-of-Worth
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] wool (washing)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 17:55:52 -0400
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If you do try to sew it again, butt the edges instead of doing a traditional
seam. Since it's wool the edges won't come undone, and you won't be stuck
with the bulk of seam allowances.

Or, if you can't do anything with it, use it as blankets. I dream of having
something like that to sleep in :-)

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2004 1:38 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wool (washing)


> Possibly, but not for anything I've thought of yet. See, the problem is
that
> sewing this stuff is, no kidding, like sewing foam; the stitches sink
deep,
> but you can't pull them tight, and no matter what you do the seam looks
> awful.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corset
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Seems similar to what you can see in PoF. There's a pic of a corset that's
been partially taken apart, and it contains bunches of reeds, or whatever
they're called.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Janet Renzetti" <celtic_dragonrider@yahoo.ca>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2004 9:42 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Corset


> I have seen people use bamboo, tiny sticks of them bunched together.  THey
say it is more comfortable, light, and breathes.  I haven't tried it
personally though.
>
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Oh, dear!  Ok, I probably should not use my weird typo shourtcuts on line.

It's Pair (P) of (o) Bodies (B)= PoB

Sorry for the confusion...
Emer \ Gia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2004 7:12 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: PoB


> Post office box??  I missed that message.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On
> > Behalf Of MaddNancy@aol.com
> > Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2004 3:01 AM
> > To: h-costume@indra.com
> > Subject: [h-cost] Re: PoB
> >
> > OK, I admit it!  I can't recall what PoB stands for!
> >
> > Nancy
> > _______________________________________________
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> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ideas for charging for services
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Status: RO

Janet,  LOL!  You are *so* right.  My guy friend brought over the
'elizabethan costume' that some one else made for him and it was *so*
painful to see.  Ohmigosh!  *SUCH* a horrible fit, wrong fabric and
obviously worn out.  *shudder*.  Apparently it was the only 'good' costume
he had...poor guy!

When I am finished making him his bartered elizabethan shirt, cote and
upperstocks he will *know* why I was so demanding.

Yet, when I sew the simple t-tunics, I only need to take the required
measurements, maybe one fitting (just to make sure the sleeves are the right
length, maybe) and then out the door with it.  I can usually make those in a
day or two, depending on the 'details' requested.

Happy stitching!
Emer \ Gia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Janet Renzetti" <celtic_dragonrider@yahoo.ca>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2004 7:10 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ideas for charging for services


> Gia
>
> I completely agree with that for a properly fitted outfit.  An outfit that
doesn't matter so much you have flexibility with.  An ELizabethan does not.
If it doesn't fit right then it is a disaster.
>
>


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From: "Shane & Sheridan" <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Request for Assistance - 1920's & 1930's
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Another good source would be old Hudson's Bay and Eaton's catologues, check
your local library or archive for those. (my Grandma had one from the 40's)

Sheridan


>
> kim baird <kbaird@cableone.net> wrote:
> I would look at Dover's Fashions from the Sears Catalog series. They
> have one for the 1920's and one for the 1930's.
>
> Kim
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
> On Behalf Of Connie / Jacyntha
> Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2004 12:22 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] Request for Assistance - 1920's & 1930's
>
>
> I need, on a very short time frame, some pictures of what urban
> Caucasian Canadian (but I'll take American if need be) women, men and
> adolescents (14-18 yr. old) were wearing from 1920 through 1940.
>
> I'm sure there are many web sites out there, but because of the short
> time frame I thought I'd ask the experts!
>
> Thank you all for your time,
> Connie
>
> aka Jacyntha
>
>
> ---
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Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 16:36:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: Cheri Merideth <celticcheri@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Corset
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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what is a bents??

anyone have 2 aa batteries?  my keyboard is neding
them badly.

Anne
--- Hilary Davidson <hbgd103@soton.ac.uk> wrote:
> I've just done a handstitched 16th c. corset too,
> but used bents. they're brilliant, so light 
> but fully supportive. I started a mock up one with
> flat steel, and far prefer the bents. Now 
> I'm working on the accompanying farthingale.
> 
> 
> On Wednesday, June 9, 2004, at 05:27  am, otsisto
> wrote:
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> I've done a 16th c. corset with spring steel in it,
> and it was really
> heavy, too! The next time I make one, I want to try
> some natural
> stiffeners--reed or hemp, or a whalebone substitute.
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


=====
Go softly and gently for those you meet here will be
those you know hereafter."


	
		
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corset
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I buy my reeds for corsets at IKEA.
Just those reed windowhades.
I like the corset with reeds very much.
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Bluedress/Bluedress.html
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Pirates/Elisabeth/Elisabeth.html
I put one in every chanel and I never broke one.

Greetings,
        Deredere



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You are a godess!  I'm bookmarking this page.
Thank you!
Emer \ Gia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "lisa-list" <lisa-list@thrednedlestrete.com>
To: "lisa-list" <lisa-list@thrednedlestrete.com>; "Historical Costume"
<h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2004 7:42 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Corset


>
> Gia
>
> I've put some of the costume related pages from Gerard's Herbal on line at
> http://www.thrednedlestrete.com/publications/Gerard/gerard.htm
>
> you will find reeds and rushes.  If anyone knows if these were the
varieties
> of grasses used for stiffening I would be most interested in hearing so.
> The pages are all images so they will load slowly.  The book is from the
> early 1600's.
>
> Lisa Sinervo


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Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 16:15:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: Cheri Merideth <celticcheri@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Florentine Gown, solution?
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E,

wow.  i'm speachless.  my keyboard is not working rigt
 I thinnk it needs new batteris.

THakyou

anne
--- E House <formfunc@formfunction.org> wrote:
> A while back, during one of the many discussions of
> "How does this bodice
> stay in place?" I busted out the graphics program,
> and zoomed in on the best
> resolution version of this image I could find. And
> I'm pretty sure I found
> the nice, simple solution to what's going on here.
> 
> Look at the top of the gap, where you see the
> chemise tied. Zoom in, and you
> see a fuzzy little triangle, that depicts where the
> chemise laces go. Now,
> this may be hard to follow, because it's not easy
> for me to describe it
> without hand gestures, but it's really easy when you
> test it out:
> 
> 1) The chemise has ties. These are knotted, and one
> of the ends is left
> really long.
> 
> 2) That long end goes to one corner of the bodice,
> and passes through it
> somehow (see below). Then it goes across to the
> other corner. This describes
> two sides of that fuzzy triangle of lacing that you
> see.
> 
> 3) The long end goes back up to the original knot
> made to close the chemise,
> and is knotted with the original short end. There
> are now two ends hanging
> down: the original short end, and the formerly long
> end which is now short
> as well.
> 
> Notice, also, that the reddish edges of the gap in
> the bodice are doubled;
> there are two layers on each side there. This is
> what it looks like when I
> make a hidden lacing closure; I think that normally,
> this dress laced closed
> with a separate and hidden internal lacing. However,
> in this undress
> portrait, the chemise lace acts as a makeshift, to
> hold the bodice up and
> closed while still giving the air of dishabile. In
> other words, I don't
> think the dress would normally have been worn as
> shown; however, as shown,
> it does 'work' in the sense that the bodice is not
> being held up by sheer
> artistic convention, but rather by a functional, if
> misused, chemise lace.
> 
> I've uploaded a zoomed-in (3x, with no pixel
> interpolation) detail of the
> painting, and a version tracing the line I see the
> chemise cord following:
>
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/florentineclosure1.jpg
> (unedited zoom)
>
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/florentineclosure2.jpg
> (tracing of the
> cord--the squiggles indicate the first and second
> knots, with the lower
> squiggle probably being the first knot and the upper
> one being the second)
> 
> If anyone has a chemise that closes with ties and a
> bodice with internal
> lacing holes, try it! It really does work.
> 
> -E
> 
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corset
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 22:55:34 -0400
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On Wednesday 09 June 2004 09:42 am, Janet Renzetti wrote:
> I have seen people use bamboo, tiny sticks of them bunched together.  THey
> say it is more comfortable, light, and breathes.  I haven't tried it
> personally though.

I'd agree on the "light and breathes" part.  But I've also heard that bamboo 
is tough, and leaves sharp points if it breaks--not something I'd want to 
have lots of pieces of surrounding my torso.  (Though I'd be interested to 
hear opinions from anyone whose actually worked with it).



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A man cannot be too careful in the choice of his enemies." 
-Oscar Wilde
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Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2004 18:38:20 -0700
From: Connie / Jacyntha <Jacyntha@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Request for Assistance - 1920's &1930's
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Thanks for the suggestion but I just don't have the time for that,
unfortunately. I just need a few images to compare how fashion changed over
the decades. I'm finding some, but not very good ones.

Back to the search,
Connie


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <LLWatts@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2004 9:18 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Request for Assistance - 1920's &1930's


> >>>>>>>
> I need, on a very short time frame, some pictures of what urban Caucasian
> > Canadian (but I'll take American if need be) women, men and adolescents
> > (14-18 yr. old) were wearing from 1920 through 1940.
> > >>>>>>>
>
> Not a website, but if you have a good-sized bookstore handy take a look at
> Everyday Fashions Of The Twenties from Dover Books.  American fashions,
but I
> believe Sears (a major source for that book) shipped to Canada as well.  I
don't
> have the Thirties and Forties books yet, but if they're anything like the
> Twenties book they would be good references as well.
>
> Leah
> _______________________________________________
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Yes, I totally agree.  Some work is better than nothing.  I'll tell you, the embroidery (Hand of course) on the scarf I saw was
absolutely perfect.  I was rather embarassed at my machine work after that, considering the cost I would charge for my time.  Then again, I live in Sacramento, so I can charge less for my work than if I had a mortgage in LA or New York.

It's not easy to be an equitable person, even if you want to be given the unbalanced economic structures that exist when you attempt to by some pretty trim.......

Lisa Sinervo


---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date:  Wed, 9 Jun 2004 14:33:21 -0500

>I think the fact that in these areas, jobs of any sort are often scarce
>should not be forgotten. Jobs that a lot of Americans would consider
>'sweatshop jobs' are highly prized and generally have dozens or even
>hundreds more applicants than there are openings. Would you rather employ
>people who could easily find another job for the same wage in the 1st world,
>and wouldn't starve even if they couldn't find any job at all, or would you
>rather employ someone who has very few other options, and may be in serious
>trouble if they don't find work?
>
>-E (spent her childhood in a 3rd world country)
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
 
             
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Your welcome Gia. In August of every year, I received listing information
for the film catalog.  I will post the info when I receive it again.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com


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Katie Pleasance wrote:
> 3. Wearing a very full-skirted, lightweight sun-dress on a very windy day
> probably helped, even though I'm nearly 60 <g>.
> 

LOL, I found since I began wearing skirts about 10 years ago that even
though I am very heavy and not young anymore, I am getting a lot more
men of all ages opening doors for me, etc.  somehow skirts seem to bring
that out in a lot of guys.   even Most guys.  Kitty

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] wool (washing)
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Actually, that is the best way to sew that kind over-felted wool.  Basically
I've treat my over-felted wool like working with leather.  As long as the
edges nice and 'clean', cut precisely to snug each other, it works like a
dream.

Emer \ Gia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2004 2:55 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wool (washing)


> If you do try to sew it again, butt the edges instead of doing a
traditional
> seam. Since it's wool the edges won't come undone, and you won't be stuck
> with the bulk of seam allowances.
>
> Or, if you can't do anything with it, use it as blankets. I dream of
having
> something like that to sleep in :-)
>
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] wool (washing)
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Butting doesn't work very well either--the thread still just sinks way too
deep and yet can't be pulled tight. Seriously, imagine sewing foam. And it
shrank too much in width to be a blanket! Not trying to be negative here,
just trying to let everyone know exactly how useless your wool can get if
you go too far with that whole fulling thing. It's not entirely, 100%
useless, but it's a good 97% useless, and it will probably be 20 years
before I find enough use for it to use it up.

-E

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corset
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Oh dear...hmmm...guess where I'll be going when I get paid?

I am ever *so* naughty...but I guess we really don't need all the extra
grocery goodies..the chocolate will be on sale again...

Emer \ Gia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Deredere Galbraith" <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2004 2:50 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corset


> I buy my reeds for corsets at IKEA.
> Just those reed windowhades.
> I like the corset with reeds very much.
> http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Bluedress/Bluedress.html
> http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Pirates/Elisabeth/Elisabeth.html
> I put one in every chanel and I never broke one.
>
> Greetings,
>         Deredere
>
>
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] PoB
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Well, this is not *really* my period...but I *think* it is another name for
corsets in the elizabethan period.  An undergarment worn over the chemise
and under the gown or whatever.

Someone else who actually knows this period better than I will probably give
you a better answer.

Emer \ Gia
Taking a stab at a guess...

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Penny Roberts" <pennyrobertsho@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2004 1:37 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] PoB


> Ok so POB is Pair of Bodies but what is that?
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ideas for charging for services
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HEy Gia
 
You hit it exactly.  I have seen some people strut around so proud of their stuff, but I look at it wonder where it came from.  If they are novice at the sewing and these ar ethe outfits they are putting out, then CONGRATS to them because it is a lot of work.  IF they paid someone to do it, then it wouldbe ncie to go over their stuff and point out where they need to have to changed for future garments.
 
My dresses usually either Tudor or 12th century and well fitting to me.  My children have well fit dublets to go in when I go Tudor.  My children usually match my clothes (keeping with period--matching material and style).  Because we are walking advertisements int he SCA, we get compliments and a criticisms (criticisms are helpful by those who ave done more research who can sew a bit better than me).
 
When we go 12th or I sew 12th for others, it fits enough that it isn't awkward, but loose and a bt drapy (T-tunics and long dresses with lacing up the back).  THe waist is held by a belt anyways.  I like wearing these sreses because they are so comfortable and you don't need to wear housands of layers.
 
I know this wandered a little from the topic (I just got up), but the detail required, which was the topic, varies with he garment as you and I know and gives the flexibility that we can workwith.  Also research sure helps.  
 
Janet 
Gia <gia_gavino@comcast.net> wrote:
Janet, LOL! You are *so* right. My guy friend brought over the
'elizabethan costume' that some one else made for him and it was *so*
painful to see. Ohmigosh! *SUCH* a horrible fit, wrong fabric and
obviously worn out. *shudder*. Apparently it was the only 'good' costume
he had...poor guy!

When I am finished making him his bartered elizabethan shirt, cote and
upperstocks he will *know* why I was so demanding.

Yet, when I sew the simple t-tunics, I only need to take the required
measurements, maybe one fitting (just to make sure the sleeves are the right
length, maybe) and then out the door with it. I can usually make those in a
day or two, depending on the 'details' requested.

Happy stitching!
Emer \ Gia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Janet Renzetti" 
To: "Historical Costume" 
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2004 7:10 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ideas for charging for services


> Gia
>
> I completely agree with that for a properly fitted outfit. An outfit that
doesn't matter so much you have flexibility with. An ELizabethan does not.
If it doesn't fit right then it is a disaster.
>
>


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From: "lisa-list" <lisa-list@thrednedlestrete.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] PoB
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2004 08:03:45 -0700
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yes, a corset

Lisa Sinervo

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Gia
Sent: Thursday, June 10, 2004 7:14 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] PoB


Well, this is not *really* my period...but I *think* it is another name for
corsets in the elizabethan period.  An undergarment worn over the chemise
and under the gown or whatever.

Someone else who actually knows this period better than I will probably give
you a better answer.

Emer \ Gia
Taking a stab at a guess...

----- Original Message -----
From: "Penny Roberts" <pennyrobertsho@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2004 1:37 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] PoB


> Ok so POB is Pair of Bodies but what is that?
>
>
>
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Pair of bodies = corset, I believe.

Gail Finke



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Hi all,

First of all, I want to say THANK YOU!! to everyone who gave my
daughter suggestions for her school project.  Amazingly enough, she
whipped the dress together in a few hours (although I had to explain
almost every step of the sewing instructions to her, LOL).  She made
the handkerchief and decorated it with strawberries (from Othello)
and yellow flowers (someone's suggestion to use yellow for strength).
 She also made a wreath from willow branches.

She did her presentation yesterday and only got a few points deducted
for her speaking abilities (probably too many 'ummms') -- full marks
for the gown itself and her research and interpretation!  The teacher
liked her presentation so much, he asked to keep the hankie.  :-)

I posted a couple pictures here:

<http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/hanstar88/detail?.dir=/31dd&.dnm=daea.jpg>
<http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/hanstar88/detail?.dir=/31dd&.dnm=a44a.jpg>

Again, thank you so much for all your help.  Hannah is now inspired
to make a better version of the dress (no zipper, better fitted,
etc).  Yay!  She's caught the bug!!  :-D

~Mary


=====
"Pictures of perfection, as you know, make me sick & wicked."
~ Jane Austen

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From: "Danielle Nunn-Weinberg" <dannw@eudoramail.com>
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Sorry!  It is the 16th century term for what we call a corset, or a bodice the term can be interchangeble for both.

Cheers,
Danielle
--------- Original Message ---------

>Ok so POB is Pair of Bodies but what is that?



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Hi all,

Has anybody had a chance to look at Eighteenth Century Collections Online?  My
university just subscribed to it on monday.  It looks like a companion
collection to EEBO.

The descripton is:

ECCO is a full-text digitized database of books, pamphlets, broadsides and
ephemera in English and foreign languages published in the British Empire and
in English elsewhere in the world, from 1701-1800. The Eighteenth Century
database represents the combined collections of the British Library, the
Library of Congress, the Bodleian Library, Harvard, and 11 other institutions.
The texts are digitized versions of the Eighteenth Century microfilm collection
produced by Primary Source Microfilm, all items of which are recorded and
indexed in the English Short Title Catalogue (ESTC) online. 


Promising titles include:

Strutt, Joseph. A complete view of the dress and habits of the people of
England, from the establishment of the Saxons in Britain to the present time,
illustrated by engravings ... By Joseph Strutt. ... Vol. 1. London, 1796-99. 2
vols.

 Robertson, Hannah. The young ladies school of arts. Containing a great variety
of practical receipts, in gum-flowers, filligree, japanning, ... together with
directions for breeding canary birds, and ... silk-worm. ... By Mrs. Hannah
Robertson. The fourth edition, with large additions York, 1784.

Valuable secrets concerning arts and trades: or approved directions, from the
best artists, ... Containing upwards of one thousand approved receipts relative
to arts and trades. London, 1775.

Waller, John, gold and silver wire drawer. An appeal to the nobility and
gentry,
in regard to the gold and silver lace, brocades, embroidery, and gold and
silver ribbon of this kingdom. ... London, 1755

A new universal history of arts and sciences, shewing their origin, progress,
theory, use and practice, and exhibiting the invention, structure, improvement,
and uses, of the most considerable instruments, ... decyphered in fifty two
copper-plates. In two volumes. Vol. 1. London, 1759. 2 vols.

cheers,

Joanna
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References: <032A8573186A2B4EBBAEFA5784D0523508BF0E@sagemsg0007.sagemsmrd01.sa.gov.au><027f01c44a4f$9bf0d520$0400a8c0@compaqub><000201c44c1e$c18ba1e0$1291d6cb@ewalpole><026f01c44e48$84a5b280$0400a8c0@compaqub><BAY9-DAV24TuAyHsjCG0007ca02@hotmail.com>
	<030001c44ef7$e8df6660$0400a8c0@compaqub>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wool (washing)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2004 08:32:32 -0700
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Are you using regular sewing thread?
Have you tried handsewing with a good tapestry thread/yarn?
That is what I've used (doubled) and not only did it not sink in, it also
produced lovely decorative seams.

But then, my over-fulled wool didn't turn out as intensely dense as yours...
Happy Stitches!

Emer \ Gia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 10, 2004 7:33 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wool (washing)


> Butting doesn't work very well either--the thread still just sinks way too
> deep and yet can't be pulled tight. Seriously, imagine sewing foam. And it
> shrank too much in width to be a blanket! Not trying to be negative here,
> just trying to let everyone know exactly how useless your wool can get if
> you go too far with that whole fulling thing. It's not entirely, 100%
> useless, but it's a good 97% useless, and it will probably be 20 years
> before I find enough use for it to use it up.
>
> -E
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] wool (washing)
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hot pads!!!!  Think Hot Pads!!!  Hundreds of 'em.....  

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of E House
Sent: Thursday, June 10, 2004 7:34 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wool (washing)


Butting doesn't work very well either--the thread still just sinks way too
deep and yet can't be pulled tight. Seriously, imagine sewing foam. And it
shrank too much in width to be a blanket! Not trying to be negative here,
just trying to let everyone know exactly how useless your wool can get if
you go too far with that whole fulling thing. It's not entirely, 100%
useless, but it's a good 97% useless, and it will probably be 20 years
before I find enough use for it to use it up.

-E

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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] PoB
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2004 10:13:53 -0500
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Something akin to a corset.

De

-----Original Message-----
Ok so POB is Pair of Bodies but what is that?
 

		
costume
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: PoB
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2004 10:13:55 -0500
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I use PoB and I think it was my email w/PoB that started the confussion. :)

De

-----Original Message-----
Oh, dear!  Ok, I probably should not use my weird typo shourtcuts on line.

It's Pair (P) of (o) Bodies (B)= PoB

Sorry for the confusion...
Emer \ Gia

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Hi Janet!  Do you have pictures that can be sent?  I'd love to see your
work.  I am going to make one good Tudor for myself and I'd like to see some
examples of folks who've already done some.  Maybe even some advice as I'm
going along.  It's not my period, but I have a farthingale (is one usually
worn with Tudor) and I have to up-size my PoB pattern to make a new one.
I've already got the materials, but want to make sure I've got the details
right and to avoid as many Oops as I can.

I really like to make the T tunics for tourney wear or even to wear around
the apartment.  They are the absolute best for just throwing on when I just
feel like lounging and it's still presentable enough to go grocery shopping.
Maybe it takes a little longer when I do that, because of curious folks
stopping me to ask questions, but I love it.
Happy Stitches!
Emer

>
> My dresses usually either Tudor or 12th century and well fitting to me.
My children have well fit dublets to go in when I go Tudor.  My children
usually match my clothes (keeping with period--matching material and style).
Because we are walking advertisements int he SCA, we get compliments and a
criticisms (criticisms are helpful by those who ave done more research who
can sew a bit better than me).
>
> When we go 12th or I sew 12th for others, it fits enough that it isn't
awkward, but loose and a bt drapy (T-tunics and long dresses with lacing up
the back).  THe waist is held by a belt anyways.  I like wearing these
sreses because they are so comfortable and you don't need to wear housands
of layers.


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Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2004 12:03:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: Janet Renzetti <celtic_dragonrider@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Update on Desdemona's dress
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hello Mary
 
VERY well done.  Beautiful dress and daughter.  

Congrats too to her success and for getting into the sewing.
 
Janet
Mary <hanstar88@yahoo.com> wrote:
Hi all,

First of all, I want to say THANK YOU!! to everyone who gave my
daughter suggestions for her school project. Amazingly enough, she
whipped the dress together in a few hours (although I had to explain
almost every step of the sewing instructions to her, LOL). She made
the handkerchief and decorated it with strawberries (from Othello)
and yellow flowers (someone's suggestion to use yellow for strength).
She also made a wreath from willow branches.

She did her presentation yesterday and only got a few points deducted
for her speaking abilities (probably too many 'ummms') -- full marks
for the gown itself and her research and interpretation! The teacher
liked her presentation so much, he asked to keep the hankie. :-)

I posted a couple pictures here:




Again, thank you so much for all your help. Hannah is now inspired
to make a better version of the dress (no zipper, better fitted,
etc). Yay! She's caught the bug!! :-D

~Mary


=====
"Pictures of perfection, as you know, make me sick & wicked."
~ Jane Austen

"Right now I'm having amnesia and deja vu at the same time. I think I've forgotten this before." ~ Steven Wright
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jun 10 12:13:37 2004
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Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2004 12:07:59 -0400
Subject: Re: [h-cost] international wages for textile workers
From: ruthanne baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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There are several good handwork cooperatives in India (I apologize that at
the moment I can't retrieve the names of the couple whose catalogs I get,
but my brain has a SLOW operating system!). I wonder if they would sell
their embroidered work by the yard as well as the finished garments and
napery they list in their catalogs. I have purchased from them and can
attest to the quality of their work, and I know what you mean about quality
overall embroidery. From what I can tell from their publicity, they seem to
be doing fine work socially as well as product-wise, and they are committed
to improving their members' (workers') lives. Maybe you could enquire
through them, either for purchasing or for recommendations about purchasing
elsewhere. You're right: it's not easy having a social conscience and bills
at the same time! But I think the social conscience is a very valuable
asset.

Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

on 6/9/04 6:05 PM, Lisa Sinervo at Lisa-list@thrednedlestrete.com wrote:

> Yes, I totally agree.  Some work is better than nothing.  I'll tell you, the
> embroidery (Hand of course) on the scarf I saw was
> absolutely perfect.  I was rather embarassed at my machine work after that,
> considering the cost I would charge for my time.  Then again, I live in
> Sacramento, so I can charge less for my work than if I had a mortgage in LA or
> New York.
> 
> It's not easy to be an equitable person, even if you want to be given the
> unbalanced economic structures that exist when you attempt to by some pretty
> trim.......
> 
> Lisa Sinervo
> 
> 
> ---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
> From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date:  Wed, 9 Jun 2004 14:33:21 -0500
> 
>> I think the fact that in these areas, jobs of any sort are often scarce
>> should not be forgotten. Jobs that a lot of Americans would consider
>> 'sweatshop jobs' are highly prized and generally have dozens or even
>> hundreds more applicants than there are openings. Would you rather employ
>> people who could easily find another job for the same wage in the 1st world,
>> and wouldn't starve even if they couldn't find any job at all, or would you
>> rather employ someone who has very few other options, and may be in serious
>> trouble if they don't find work?
>> 
>> -E (spent her childhood in a 3rd world country)
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: PoB
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Oops!  Sorry.  I'd recently used it in one of my emails. LOL!

Maybe I got it from you, from a *way* earlier post and just plunked it in
one of those dusty and cobwebbed archival brain cells that didn't bother to
note whence it came.  It's very handy, too!

Happy Stitches!

Emer \ Gia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 10, 2004 8:13 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: PoB


> I use PoB and I think it was my email w/PoB that started the confussion.
:)
>
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Oh, dear!  Ok, I probably should not use my weird typo shourtcuts on line.
>
> It's Pair (P) of (o) Bodies (B)= PoB
>
> Sorry for the confusion...
> Emer \ Gia
>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2004 09:21:11 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Update on Desdemona's dress
From: Lynn Downward <LDownward@chori.org>
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Mary, your daughter did a great job on her first project! it's lovely. And
she's a beauty. Please congratulate her on a job well done.

LynnD

On 6/10/04 8:11 AM, "Mary" <hanstar88@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Hi all,
> 
> First of all, I want to say THANK YOU!! to everyone who gave my
> daughter suggestions for her school project.  Amazingly enough, she
> whipped the dress together in a few hours (although I had to explain
> almost every step of the sewing instructions to her, LOL).  She made
> the handkerchief and decorated it with strawberries (from Othello)
> and yellow flowers (someone's suggestion to use yellow for strength).
> She also made a wreath from willow branches.
> 
> She did her presentation yesterday and only got a few points deducted
> for her speaking abilities (probably too many 'ummms') -- full marks
> for the gown itself and her research and interpretation!  The teacher
> liked her presentation so much, he asked to keep the hankie.  :-)
> 
> I posted a couple pictures here:
> 
> <http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/hanstar88/detail?.dir=/31dd&.dnm=daea.jpg>
> <http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/hanstar88/detail?.dir=/31dd&.dnm=a44a.jpg>
> 
> Again, thank you so much for all your help.  Hannah is now inspired
> to make a better version of the dress (no zipper, better fitted,
> etc).  Yay!  She's caught the bug!!  :-D
> 
> ~Mary
> 
> 
> =====
> "Pictures of perfection, as you know, make me sick & wicked."
> ~ Jane Austen
> 
> "Right now I'm having amnesia and deja vu at the same time.  I think I've
> forgotten this before."      ~ Steven Wright
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Gia" <gia_gavino@comcast.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20040610151108.49740.qmail@web40406.mail.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Update on Desdemona's dress
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2004 09:23:40 -0700
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WOW!!!  so beautiful!  Both the gown and your daughter...

I'm glad she caught 'the bug'!  Sometimes it takes just doing something that
is exquisitely gorgeous.

Happy Stitching!
Emer \ Gia
>
> She did her presentation yesterday and only got a few points deducted
> for her speaking abilities (probably too many 'ummms') -- full marks
> for the gown itself and her research and interpretation!  The teacher
> liked her presentation so much, he asked to keep the hankie.  :-)
>
> I posted a couple pictures here:
>
>
<http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/hanstar88/detail?.dir=/31dd&.dnm=daea.jpg>
>
<http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/hanstar88/detail?.dir=/31dd&.dnm=a44a.jpg>
>
> Again, thank you so much for all your help.  Hannah is now inspired
> to make a better version of the dress (no zipper, better fitted,
> etc).  Yay!  She's caught the bug!!  :-D
>
> ~Mary
>
>
> =====
> "Pictures of perfection, as you know, make me sick & wicked."
> ~ Jane Austen
>
> "Right now I'm having amnesia and deja vu at the same time.  I think I've
forgotten this before."      ~ Steven Wright
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ot America
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Be careful, Bjarne!  You're playing right into the hands of those who would
stereotype Europeans as a bunch of snotty, self-righteous prigs too weak to
defend themselves and too morally bankrupt to help defend anyone else.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 10:52 AM
Subject: [h-cost] ot America


> And
> Let me tell you a little thing out there in America!
> I think you are spoiled people, living in big houses and letting your
> government take two much participation in european and world issue.< You
> love to be a police of the world, legt me tell you
> We hate you over here in Europe!!!
> And you are two over weight also!!
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Please Read - note from the list admin
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Oops, sorry.  I sent my comment about Bjarne before I read this note.  Next
time, when I get behind in my reading, I'll read everything before I post
about anything.

Pam Dotson
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Elizabeth Lear" <eliz@indra.com>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2004 6:34 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Please Read - note from the list admin


> I was hoping this was only a brief thing that would blow over quickly,
> but I don't see that happening.  I am therefore requesting as the list
> owner that people return to on-topic discussions on the list.  I also
> hope that people will return to moving the conversations forward in a
> positive manner.
>
> Thanks.
> ...eliz, list admin
>
> -- 
> "It seemed so clear to me - once I'd wised up to the idea that life is
> not a straight road with no exit ramps - that life presented
> opportunities all along the way for a person to change directions."
>                                                 - Alice Steinbach
>
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Subject: [h-cost] signing off for a bit
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Greetings,

I am signing off for a bit while I am away for a month.   Don't talk 
about anything good while I'm gone.  :D

best regards,

Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com
*** http://www.alfalfapress.com

Public Relations Manager
Sauron/Voldemort 2004

Bush/Cheney - Bringing Bigotry back to the Constitution.

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Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2004 13:27:52 -0400 (EDT)
From: Janet Renzetti <celtic_dragonrider@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing and fittings...
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Hi Gia
 
I am sending some pics.  Not the best, but they are at least something.  THere are 4 in total, but Yahoo only allows 3 at a time, so I will send them 2 + 2.
 
The blue one has a frthingale and the pink one does not.  Tudor was of course pre-Elizabethan and so hoops were starting to grow.  THe blue dress I made to fit exactly, but the material is a loose weave (which you can't tell by the pic) so I made a corset with almost no boning just so that all the breathing would put stress on the corset not the dress.  I am not in the habit of wearing corsets, if I wore them I can't hold the farthingales up.  I made suspenders for it, but I am too think for it and pins don't hold :)
 
Janet

Gia <gia_gavino@comcast.net> wrote:
Hi Janet! Do you have pictures that can be sent? I'd love to see your
work. I am going to make one good Tudor for myself and I'd like to see some
examples of folks who've already done some. Maybe even some advice as I'm
going along. It's not my period, but I have a farthingale (is one usually
worn with Tudor) and I have to up-size my PoB pattern to make a new one.
I've already got the materials, but want to make sure I've got the details
right and to avoid as many Oops as I can.

I really like to make the T tunics for tourney wear or even to wear around
the apartment. They are the absolute best for just throwing on when I just
feel like lounging and it's still presentable enough to go grocery shopping.
Maybe it takes a little longer when I do that, because of curious folks
stopping me to ask questions, but I love it.
Happy Stitches!
Emer

>
> My dresses usually either Tudor or 12th century and well fitting to me.
My children have well fit dublets to go in when I go Tudor. My children
usually match my clothes (keeping with period--matching material and style).
Because we are walking advertisements int he SCA, we get compliments and a
criticisms (criticisms are helpful by those who ave done more research who
can sew a bit better than me).
>
> When we go 12th or I sew 12th for others, it fits enough that it isn't
awkward, but loose and a bt drapy (T-tunics and long dresses with lacing up
the back). THe waist is held by a belt anyways. I like wearing these
sreses because they are so comfortable and you don't need to wear housands
of layers.


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Mary: The teacher had better given her an A if he wanted to keep the hankie!
If you have a local paper, see if it runs stories of all the good stuff kids
do with parents. This would make a lovely story. I would also keep the
dress, if I were her, especially if there are RenFaires in your area or if
she has a dance or prom where she could wear it, as it is different and
romantic from the current usual run of prom dresses. And she looks great in
it--you and she should be very proud.

Cindy Abel



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	<004b01c44e8b$9de3f700$f60d5318@vc.shawcable.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Request for Assistance - 1920's &1930's
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2004 12:57:56 -0500
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The Library of Congress website has a neat section of old photos, including
tons from the 1920s & 1930s. Go here:
http://snipurl.com/6zic
(if that doesn't work, here's the full link:
<http://memory.loc.gov/cgi-bin/query/S?ammem/collections:@field(FLD003+@band
(origf+Photograph)):heading=Original+Format%3a+Photos+&+Prints>

Check the boxes beside the ones with the right dates (even if it's an odd
category, like architecture, because a lot of times the buildings have
people standing around in them or what not). Put in a really generic search
term like "women" and you'll find a ton of every day stuff. Each photo will
have general information like its date, the location, etc. Expect to find
several thousand photos more than you need. =}

-E


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Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2004 13:57:14 -0400 (EDT)
From: Janet Renzetti <celtic_dragonrider@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing and fittings...
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Gia
SOmething I forgot to mentionabout these dresses are that they are a couple of years old.  THe pink dress was my forst period garb and I made it 3 years ago when I was trying to figure out how to use a serger.  It is showing its age and it isn't as good as the stuff I put out now.  THe blue dress I made 2 years ago for a renaissance dance demo for the half time show.  Both I used and modified commercial patterns.
 
NOw I design and build my own from scratch.  FInd apicture or draw my own then draft a pattern.  THey are turning out better now, but then that usually happens with practise and more experience.  My other tuff I don't have pctures of.  My sister has a beautiful dress that I found the picture on the net somewhere.  It turned out beautiful, slightly pre-tudor, but around the time youa re looking for.  If I find the pics I will send it to you too.  I am WAY more proud of that dress for my sis than I am of the ones I sent to you.
 
Janet

Gia <gia_gavino@comcast.net> wrote:
Hi Janet! Do you have pictures that can be sent? I'd love to see your
work. I am going to make one good Tudor for myself and I'd like to see some
examples of folks who've already done some. Maybe even some advice as I'm
going along. It's not my period, but I have a farthingale (is one usually
worn with Tudor) and I have to up-size my PoB pattern to make a new one.
I've already got the materials, but want to make sure I've got the details
right and to avoid as many Oops as I can.

I really like to make the T tunics for tourney wear or even to wear around
the apartment. They are the absolute best for just throwing on when I just
feel like lounging and it's still presentable enough to go grocery shopping.
Maybe it takes a little longer when I do that, because of curious folks
stopping me to ask questions, but I love it.
Happy Stitches!
Emer

>
> My dresses usually either Tudor or 12th century and well fitting to me.
My children have well fit dublets to go in when I go Tudor. My children
usually match my clothes (keeping with period--matching material and style).
Because we are walking advertisements int he SCA, we get compliments and a
criticisms (criticisms are helpful by those who ave done more research who
can sew a bit better than me).
>
> When we go 12th or I sew 12th for others, it fits enough that it isn't
awkward, but loose and a bt drapy (T-tunics and long dresses with lacing up
the back). THe waist is held by a belt anyways. I like wearing these
sreses because they are so comfortable and you don't need to wear housands
of layers.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] wool (washing)
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Yeah, the density is the problem there--the thicker stuff either won't go
through it, or is so shredded that I have to tie off after 2 stitches. And
silk just cuts it!  But next time I need the period equivalent of foam?
Right there, baby.

-E

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Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2004 14:02:25 -0400 (EDT)
From: Janet Renzetti <celtic_dragonrider@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing and fittings...
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hey Gia
 
Did my 3 e-mails I sent to you re:pics go to you directbecause only the fourth and last one bounced to me through the lists.  I found it strange that they hadn't shown up yet.
 
Janet

Gia <gia_gavino@comcast.net> wrote:
Hi Janet! Do you have pictures that can be sent? I'd love to see your
work. I am going to make one good Tudor for myself and I'd like to see some
examples of folks who've already done some. Maybe even some advice as I'm
going along. It's not my period, but I have a farthingale (is one usually
worn with Tudor) and I have to up-size my PoB pattern to make a new one.
I've already got the materials, but want to make sure I've got the details
right and to avoid as many Oops as I can.

I really like to make the T tunics for tourney wear or even to wear around
the apartment. They are the absolute best for just throwing on when I just
feel like lounging and it's still presentable enough to go grocery shopping.
Maybe it takes a little longer when I do that, because of curious folks
stopping me to ask questions, but I love it.
Happy Stitches!
Emer

>
> My dresses usually either Tudor or 12th century and well fitting to me.
My children have well fit dublets to go in when I go Tudor. My children
usually match my clothes (keeping with period--matching material and style).
Because we are walking advertisements int he SCA, we get compliments and a
criticisms (criticisms are helpful by those who ave done more research who
can sew a bit better than me).
>
> When we go 12th or I sew 12th for others, it fits enough that it isn't
awkward, but loose and a bt drapy (T-tunics and long dresses with lacing up
the back). THe waist is held by a belt anyways. I like wearing these
sreses because they are so comfortable and you don't need to wear housands
of layers.


_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Update on Desdemona's dress
From: ruthanne baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Oh, she looks just lovely. And the willow leaves look beautiful around her
face. Congratulations to her!

And thank YOU for showing us how this very interesting project turned out.

My compliments to the teacher, too--I wonder if I could get away with
working in a similar assignment for my college Shakespeare course! (Back in
"the day," professors sometimes did--I remember making a 4' x 4'
three-dimensional map of the Faerie Queene instead of writing a paper,
complete with peanut-shell caves, and what an intellectual challenge it WAS
to arrange locations so that all the journeys were possible--but in these
"outcomes assessment" times, I'm not sure how such a departure from standard
requirements would be tolerated in a lit course!).

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer


on 6/10/04 12:23 PM, Gia at gia_gavino@comcast.net wrote:

> WOW!!!  so beautiful!  Both the gown and your daughter...
> 
> I'm glad she caught 'the bug'!  Sometimes it takes just doing something that
> is exquisitely gorgeous.
> 
> Happy Stitching!
> Emer \ Gia
>> 
>> She did her presentation yesterday and only got a few points deducted
>> for her speaking abilities (probably too many 'ummms') -- full marks
>> for the gown itself and her research and interpretation!  The teacher
>> liked her presentation so much, he asked to keep the hankie.  :-)
>> 
>> I posted a couple pictures here:
>> 
>> 
> <http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/hanstar88/detail?.dir=/31dd&.dnm=daea.jpg>
>> 
> <http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/hanstar88/detail?.dir=/31dd&.dnm=a44a.jpg>
>> 
>> Again, thank you so much for all your help.  Hannah is now inspired
>> to make a better version of the dress (no zipper, better fitted,
>> etc).  Yay!  She's caught the bug!!  :-D
>> 
>> ~Mary
>> 
>> 
>> =====
>> "Pictures of perfection, as you know, make me sick & wicked."
>> ~ Jane Austen
>> 
>> "Right now I'm having amnesia and deja vu at the same time.  I think I've
> forgotten this before."      ~ Steven Wright
>> _______________________________________________
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> 
> 
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From: "Gia" <gia_gavino@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing and fittings...
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2004 13:16:46 -0700
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Strange.  I haven't gotten them.  Not even directly, yet.  Maybe in a few
minutes?


Emer \ Gia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Janet Renzetti" <celtic_dragonrider@yahoo.ca>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 10, 2004 11:02 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing and fittings...


> Hey Gia
>
> Did my 3 e-mails I sent to you re:pics go to you directbecause only the
fourth and last one bounced to me through the lists.  I found it strange
that they hadn't shown up yet.
>
> Janet
>
> Gia <gia_gavino@comcast.net> wrote:
> Hi Janet! Do you have pictures that can be sent? I'd love to see your
> work. I am going to make one good Tudor for myself and I'd like to see
some
> examples of folks who've already done some. Maybe even some advice as I'm
> going along. It's not my period, but I have a farthingale (is one usually
> worn with Tudor) and I have to up-size my PoB pattern to make a new one.
> I've already got the materials, but want to make sure I've got the details
> right and to avoid as many Oops as I can.
>
> I really like to make the T tunics for tourney wear or even to wear around
> the apartment. They are the absolute best for just throwing on when I just
> feel like lounging and it's still presentable enough to go grocery
shopping.
> Maybe it takes a little longer when I do that, because of curious folks
> stopping me to ask questions, but I love it.
> Happy Stitches!
> Emer
>
> >
> > My dresses usually either Tudor or 12th century and well fitting to me.
> My children have well fit dublets to go in when I go Tudor. My children
> usually match my clothes (keeping with period--matching material and
style).
> Because we are walking advertisements int he SCA, we get compliments and a
> criticisms (criticisms are helpful by those who ave done more research who
> can sew a bit better than me).
> >
> > When we go 12th or I sew 12th for others, it fits enough that it isn't
> awkward, but loose and a bt drapy (T-tunics and long dresses with lacing
up
> the back). THe waist is held by a belt anyways. I like wearing these
> sreses because they are so comfortable and you don't need to wear housands
> of layers.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Post your free ad now! Yahoo! Canada Personals
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jun 10 17:19:00 2004
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Subject: [h-cost] Help please with Tudor!
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It's times like this when I get stuck that I'm very grateful for the wonderful resources on this 
list.

I am making half a toile dress for a display in July (the half is so that the other half will 
reveal the undergarments). It is to give an indication of the shape and structure of Mary I's 
wedding dress when she married Philip II in 1554.  The colourways are based on the 
eyewitness reports of the wedding, with the possible actual garments as recorded in her 
wardrobe accounts, so it is the classic Tudor 'French gown' as seen in her state portraits. 
I've never done much Tudor patterning, but I've been going fine until I hit the sleeves and 
neck. I want the pattern to be as accurate as possible, but don't have the time to research 
it properly from scratch. So I thought I'd ask Those Who Know.

My questions are:
1) Is she wearing a partlet over a low-necked bodice front, or would the neckline be 
slightly higher?
2) Do partlets have a seam at the shoulder?
3) What does the neckline do at the back?
4) Do the turned back fur oversleeves come to a point or a curve at the bottom?

Many thanks!
Hilary

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] working in the movies
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<<Work in the movies has to be done yesterday;>>

Yep....every night is opening night in the movies!
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If you're out of ideas of what to do with it, you can still send it to me
;-P I'll find something...

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 10, 2004 2:01 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wool (washing)


> Yeah, the density is the problem there--the thicker stuff either won't go
> through it, or is so shredded that I have to tie off after 2 stitches. And
> silk just cuts it!  But next time I need the period equivalent of foam?
> Right there, baby.
>
> -E
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Diane Maynard" <camelothorse@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] PoB
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2004 18:45:00 -0500
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Excuse me---I normally just lurk but---My understanding of " a pair of
bodies " is that it is just that--a pair sewn into one.   It is your corset
and bodice together.  What would be two garments in one--ie: a pair.  I
sometimes do this with my bodices to eliminate one layer, especially for a
quick change or, when I am riding a horse.  I double layer and bone my
bodice for support instead of wearing a corset underneath.  That allows me
to have just my chemise and/or partlet under my outer bodice and no corset.
I now have the support of the corset without the extra layer.  I could be
wrong but this was my understanding of the term.

Diane

Well, this is not *really* my period...but I *think* it is another name for
corsets in the elizabethan period.  An undergarment worn over the chemise
and under the gown or whatever.

Someone else who actually knows this period better than I will probably give
you a better answer.

> Ok so POB is Pair of Bodies but what is that?
>
>
>

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jun 10 21:08:11 2004
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From: "lisa-list" <lisa-list@thrednedlestrete.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] PoB
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2004 18:06:59 -0700
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Could be both.  From Janet Arnold's QEWU - BODIES 'A paire of bodies for a
woman...Corpset, Corset' (John Minsheu, The Guide into Tongues, 1617) An
inner garment for the upper part of the body, quilted and strengthened with
whalebone.  In the second half of the sixteenth century this term refers to
both the stiffened inner garment and the upper part of a woman's gown fitted
close to the body, what we would now describe as a bodice.

Lisa Sinervo

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Diane Maynard
Sent: Thursday, June 10, 2004 4:45 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: RE: [h-cost] PoB


Excuse me---I normally just lurk but---My understanding of " a pair of
bodies " is that it is just that--a pair sewn into one.   It is your corset
and bodice together.  What would be two garments in one--ie: a pair.  I
sometimes do this with my bodices to eliminate one layer, especially for a
quick change or, when I am riding a horse.  I double layer and bone my
bodice for support instead of wearing a corset underneath.  That allows me
to have just my chemise and/or partlet under my outer bodice and no corset.
I now have the support of the corset without the extra layer.  I could be
wrong but this was my understanding of the term.

Diane

Well, this is not *really* my period...but I *think* it is another name for
corsets in the elizabethan period.  An undergarment worn over the chemise
and under the gown or whatever.

Someone else who actually knows this period better than I will probably give
you a better answer.

> Ok so POB is Pair of Bodies but what is that?
>
>
>

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume



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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jun 10 22:54:58 2004
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Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2004 22:51:31 -0400
From: Kitty Felton <basyefelton@floodcity.net>
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someone said it was the corset, called a pair because the corset was
actually in two parts, one for the left and one for the right, held
together by lacing in back and.... Hooks? in front?   I think that's
right.   Kitty

Diane Maynard wrote:
> 
> Excuse me---I normally just lurk but---My understanding of " a pair of
> bodies " is that it is just that--a pair sewn into one.   It is your corset
> and bodice together.  What would be two garments in one--ie: a pair.  I
> sometimes do this with my bodices to eliminate one layer, especially for a
> quick change or, when I am riding a horse.  I double layer and bone my
> bodice for support instead of wearing a corset underneath.  That allows me
> to have just my chemise and/or partlet under my outer bodice and no corset.
> I now have the support of the corset without the extra layer.  I could be
> wrong but this was my understanding of the term.
> 
> Diane
> 
> Well, this is not *really* my period...but I *think* it is another name for
> corsets in the elizabethan period.  An undergarment worn over the chemise
> and under the gown or whatever.
> 
> Someone else who actually knows this period better than I will probably give
> you a better answer.
> 
> > Ok so POB is Pair of Bodies but what is that?
> >
> >
> >
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Jun 11 02:40:22 2004
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From: "Molly Boone" <Rampant_Peacock@comcast.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Florentine Gown, solution?
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2004 23:41:33 -0700
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they did something similar to this to one of the Veronica Franco Gowns in
the movie Dangerous Beauty.  Very inventive.

Nice spot

Molly

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of E House
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2004 10:28 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Florentine Gown, solution?


A while back, during one of the many discussions of "How does this bodice
stay in place?" I busted out the graphics program, and zoomed in on the best
resolution version of this image I could find. And I'm pretty sure I found
the nice, simple solution to what's going on here.

Look at the top of the gap, where you see the chemise tied. Zoom in, and you
see a fuzzy little triangle, that depicts where the chemise laces go. Now,
this may be hard to follow, because it's not easy for me to describe it
without hand gestures, but it's really easy when you test it out:

1) The chemise has ties. These are knotted, and one of the ends is left
really long.

2) That long end goes to one corner of the bodice, and passes through it
somehow (see below). Then it goes across to the other corner. This describes
two sides of that fuzzy triangle of lacing that you see.

3) The long end goes back up to the original knot made to close the chemise,
and is knotted with the original short end. There are now two ends hanging
down: the original short end, and the formerly long end which is now short
as well.

Notice, also, that the reddish edges of the gap in the bodice are doubled;
there are two layers on each side there. This is what it looks like when I
make a hidden lacing closure; I think that normally, this dress laced closed
with a separate and hidden internal lacing. However, in this undress
portrait, the chemise lace acts as a makeshift, to hold the bodice up and
closed while still giving the air of dishabile. In other words, I don't
think the dress would normally have been worn as shown; however, as shown,
it does 'work' in the sense that the bodice is not being held up by sheer
artistic convention, but rather by a functional, if misused, chemise lace.

I've uploaded a zoomed-in (3x, with no pixel interpolation) detail of the
painting, and a version tracing the line I see the chemise cord following:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/florentineclosure1.jpg (unedited zoom)
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/florentineclosure2.jpg (tracing of the
cord--the squiggles indicate the first and second knots, with the lower
squiggle probably being the first knot and the upper one being the second)

If anyone has a chemise that closes with ties and a bodice with internal
lacing holes, try it! It really does work.

-E

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From: "Molly Boone" <Rampant_Peacock@comcast.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Ideas for charging for services
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2004 00:11:56 -0700
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I personally find it disturbing to see the failures of those who call
themselves professionals and seeing what some turn out.

There is a woman who I will not name who used to be attached to the acting
troop I have belonged to for 10 years.  There is a doublet she made for
someone that she charged an OBSCENE amount of money for and honestly it had
issues  n top of that she had him buy more than 2 times the material needed
to make the "finished" garment.  The doublet is a false slash and puff
brocade doublet in black and scarlet brocade and the inside isn't even
lined.  Consider this doublet was for fair/stage combat, to me this is
inexcusable.

I watched this same person turn out costume after costume with the same kind
of material overbuying (and she kept all leftovers) all of them are ill
fitting, blow seams regularly, or otherwise have problems.  and she had to
have been charging over $20/hour for work.  I can't even remember how many
of them have come to me to have things redone and she won't give any sort of
quality guarantee.  I wont even go into her inability to make deadlines.

*sigh*  I'll admit I remember that an make sure I do the opposite.  The best
thing that has happened is that myself and 2 others have taken enough
commissions that she disappeared because she couldn't compete in quality or
costs.

Molly



-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Janet Renzetti
Sent: Thursday, June 10, 2004 7:59 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ideas for charging for services


HEy Gia

You hit it exactly.  I have seen some people strut around so proud of their
stuff, but I look at it wonder where it came from.  If they are novice at
the sewing and these ar ethe outfits they are putting out, then CONGRATS to
them because it is a lot of work.  IF they paid someone to do it, then it
wouldbe ncie to go over their stuff and point out where they need to have to
changed for future garments.

My dresses usually either Tudor or 12th century and well fitting to me.  My
children have well fit dublets to go in when I go Tudor.  My children
usually match my clothes (keeping with period--matching material and style).
Because we are walking advertisements int he SCA, we get compliments and a
criticisms (criticisms are helpful by those who ave done more research who
can sew a bit better than me).

When we go 12th or I sew 12th for others, it fits enough that it isn't
awkward, but loose and a bt drapy (T-tunics and long dresses with lacing up
the back).  THe waist is held by a belt anyways.  I like wearing these
sreses because they are so comfortable and you don't need to wear housands
of layers.

I know this wandered a little from the topic (I just got up), but the detail
required, which was the topic, varies with he garment as you and I know and
gives the flexibility that we can workwith.  Also research sure helps.

Janet
Gia <gia_gavino@comcast.net> wrote:
Janet, LOL! You are *so* right. My guy friend brought over the
'elizabethan costume' that some one else made for him and it was *so*
painful to see. Ohmigosh! *SUCH* a horrible fit, wrong fabric and
obviously worn out. *shudder*. Apparently it was the only 'good' costume
he had...poor guy!

When I am finished making him his bartered elizabethan shirt, cote and
upperstocks he will *know* why I was so demanding.

Yet, when I sew the simple t-tunics, I only need to take the required
measurements, maybe one fitting (just to make sure the sleeves are the right
length, maybe) and then out the door with it. I can usually make those in a
day or two, depending on the 'details' requested.

Happy stitching!
Emer \ Gia
----- Original Message -----
From: "Janet Renzetti"
To: "Historical Costume"
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2004 7:10 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ideas for charging for services


> Gia
>
> I completely agree with that for a properly fitted outfit. An outfit that
doesn't matter so much you have flexibility with. An ELizabethan does not.
If it doesn't fit right then it is a disaster.
>
>


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From: "Molly Boone" <Rampant_Peacock@comcast.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] wool (washing)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2004 01:06:29 -0700
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have you tried backing the seam area with a strip of cotton and sandwiching
the 2 layers of wool?  That at least would give you something more solid to
stitch through.  I do this when my serger is refusing to serge light weight
gauze to give it more to grab on to.

Molly

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Audrey Bergeron-Morin
Sent: Thursday, June 10, 2004 2:53 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wool (washing)


If you're out of ideas of what to do with it, you can still send it to me
;-P I'll find something...

----- Original Message -----
From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 10, 2004 2:01 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wool (washing)


> Yeah, the density is the problem there--the thicker stuff either won't go
> through it, or is so shredded that I have to tie off after 2 stitches. And
> silk just cuts it!  But next time I need the period equivalent of foam?
> Right there, baby.
>
> -E
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: corded farthingales (wasRe: [h-cost] Corset)
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Hilary Davidson" <hbgd103@soton.ac.uk>
To: <Historical@soton.ac.uk>; <Costume@soton.ac.uk>; <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 10, 2004 1:45 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corset


<snip>
> I'd be interested in trying the rolled fabric way of stiffening for the
fathingale, because it's
> Not Fun wrestling with yards of damp willow for the hoops. But it's been
an interesting
> process of discovery with it, and had radically changed my ideas on its
purpose and
> construction.
>
<snip>
Well I know Drea Aleed's site has something about a rope or cord stiffened
farthingale and I'm pretty sure it's got documentation to back it up
(http://costume.dm.net/ in case you aren't familiar with it or haven't
bookmarked it) I expect you could use rags or fabric scraps as a substitute
for rope.
Elizabeth
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
Elizabeth Beaumont              Elizabeth Walpole
Politarchopolis, Lochac     Canberra Australia
             ewalpole@austar.net.au

People are like stained glass windows. They sparkle and shine when the sun
is out, but when the darkness sets in ,their true beauty is revealed only if
there is light from within.
Elizabeth Kubler-Ross

The years that a woman subtracts from her age are not lost. They are added
to the ages of other women.
Diane de Poitiers (1499-1566) Attrib.

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From: "J.A.Urbik" <jaurbik@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wool (washing)
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It sounds like it would make excelent -matress pads or ironing board 
pads...  but i also think it might make great pins...there was an old 
articule in threads(am leaving for a 7:30am flight or i might try to 
find it) about felling wool and then using the result to make art 
pins--think site tokens if you are in the sca?  When i get home, i will 
try to find the article (next week).

Also, I am sure that I could also find some use for it, if you want to 
send it out.... :)

Jordana

Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:

> If you're out of ideas of what to do with it, you can still send it to me
> ;-P I'll find something...
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Thursday, June 10, 2004 2:01 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] wool (washing)
> 
> 
> 
>>Yeah, the density is the problem there--the thicker stuff either won't go
>>through it, or is so shredded that I have to tie off after 2 stitches. And
>>silk just cuts it!  But next time I need the period equivalent of foam?
>>Right there, baby.
>>
>>-E
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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From: Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
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It finally looks like it is going to be a nice dress :-)
Hopefully I wont get major problems anymore.
Just two weeks to go to finish this dress and make a costume for my husband.
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Robealafrancaise/Robe.html

The only thing I probably have to do is break some of the reads on the 
right side of my back.
Somehow I can't have boning over my lower back where my hip starts on 
that side.
I get pain and after a few ours my leg wil feel numb.
Hopefully it wil help if I break the reads where the tabs begin.
If it doesn't help I have to take them out completely :-(

Greetings,
        Deredere




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Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2004 13:30:53 -0400 (EDT)
From: Janet Renzetti <celtic_dragonrider@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing and fittings...
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Gia <gia_gavino@comcast.net> wrote: Hi Janet! Do you have pictures that can be sent? I'd love to see your
work. I am going to make one good Tudor for myself and I'd like to see some
examples of folks who've already done some. Maybe even some advice as I'm
going along. It's not my period, but I have a farthingale (is one usually
worn with Tudor) and I have to up-size my PoB pattern to make a new one.
I've already got the materials, but want to make sure I've got the details
right and to avoid as many Oops as I can.

I really like to make the T tunics for tourney wear or even to wear around
the apartment. They are the absolute best for just throwing on when I just
feel like lounging and it's still presentable enough to go grocery shopping.
Maybe it takes a little longer when I do that, because of curious folks
stopping me to ask questions, but I love it.
Happy Stitches!
Emer

>
> My dresses usually either Tudor or 12th century and well fitting to me.
My children have well fit dublets to go in when I go Tudor. My children
usually match my clothes (keeping with period--matching material and style).
Because we are walking advertisements int he SCA, we get compliments and a
criticisms (criticisms are helpful by those who ave done more research who
can sew a bit better than me).
>
> When we go 12th or I sew 12th for others, it fits enough that it isn't
awkward, but loose and a bt drapy (T-tunics and long dresses with lacing up
the back). THe waist is held by a belt anyways. I like wearing these
sreses because they are so comfortable and you don't need to wear housands
of layers.


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Gia <gia_gavino@comcast.net> wrote: Hi Janet! Do you have pictures that can be sent? I'd love to see your
work. I am going to make one good Tudor for myself and I'd like to see some
examples of folks who've already done some. Maybe even some advice as I'm
going along. It's not my period, but I have a farthingale (is one usually
worn with Tudor) and I have to up-size my PoB pattern to make a new one.
I've already got the materials, but want to make sure I've got the details
right and to avoid as many Oops as I can.

I really like to make the T tunics for tourney wear or even to wear around
the apartment. They are the absolute best for just throwing on when I just
feel like lounging and it's still presentable enough to go grocery shopping.
Maybe it takes a little longer when I do that, because of curious folks
stopping me to ask questions, but I love it.
Happy Stitches!
Emer

>
> My dresses usually either Tudor or 12th century and well fitting to me.
My children have well fit dublets to go in when I go Tudor. My children
usually match my clothes (keeping with period--matching material and style).
Because we are walking advertisements int he SCA, we get compliments and a
criticisms (criticisms are helpful by those who ave done more research who
can sew a bit better than me).
>
> When we go 12th or I sew 12th for others, it fits enough that it isn't
awkward, but loose and a bt drapy (T-tunics and long dresses with lacing up
the back). THe waist is held by a belt anyways. I like wearing these
sreses because they are so comfortable and you don't need to wear housands
of layers.


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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume




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<Well I know Drea Aleed's site has something about a rope or cord stiffened
farthingale and I'm pretty sure it's got documentation to back it up
(http://costume.dm.net/ in case you aren't familiar with it or haven't
bookmarked it) I expect you could use rags or fabric scraps as a substitute
for rope.
Elizabeth>

Thanks. I know about the corded ones from QEWU, where kersey is cited in the wardrobe 
records as the filling for the hoops. I want the stiffness but flexibility for this project, so 
committed myself to using willow (grrr....). This farthingale is in beautiful shot yellow and 
red silk, as near as I could get to  'changeable Spanish tawny', tawny being described as 
orange with much yellow in it. Has anyone on the list tried a corded 'gale?


PS - Elizabeth, I'm a Rowanite in English exile - how is sunny Polit these days?! Had 
some memorable events there.
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Has anyone else seen this program? It's been playing on US cable on the 
Travel Channel. I caught it last night and found it interesting. They 
recreate a lot of medieval and renaissance scenes with costumed extras 
and computer generated effects.

It's playing several more times this week.

http://travel.discovery.com/schedule/episode.jsp?episode=0&cpi=105993&gid=0&channel=TRV



Dawn



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From: "Cindy Abel" <brujne@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2004 12:42:20 -0500
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Subject: [h-cost] ot: help to set no mail option
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The last time my mail service was changed on my pc, some of my saved
messages dealing with setting no mail,etc.  for my various listserves were
lost. Would some kind soul send me directions to set h-costume to no mail
while I'm on vacation?

Many thanks!!

Cindy Abel
brujne@creighton.edu


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	Fri, 11 Jun 2004 14:06:41 EDT
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2004 14:06:41 -0400 (EDT)
From: Janet Renzetti <celtic_dragonrider@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: corded farthingales (wasRe: [h-cost] Corset)
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I know this is SOOOO not period, but a quick way to make a farthingale hoope is steel binding.  A friend of mine made his wife one that way, and so I had one done for me.  He works in a warehouse and so the pallets are wrapped sometimes in 1" wide binding. The great thing is tha I can drive while wearing it because it is posable.  One day I might do a proper one and get full research going for it, but it is a make do thing and since I don't wear it that often, too hard to chase kids, when I don't have a servant, I only wear it for special occasions.
 
Janet

Elizabeth Walpole <ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au> wrote:

----- Original Message -----
From: "Hilary Davidson" 
To: ; ; 
Sent: Thursday, June 10, 2004 1:45 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corset



> I'd be interested in trying the rolled fabric way of stiffening for the
fathingale, because it's
> Not Fun wrestling with yards of damp willow for the hoops. But it's been
an interesting
> process of discovery with it, and had radically changed my ideas on its
purpose and
> construction.
>

Well I know Drea Aleed's site has something about a rope or cord stiffened
farthingale and I'm pretty sure it's got documentation to back it up
(http://costume.dm.net/ in case you aren't familiar with it or haven't
bookmarked it) I expect you could use rags or fabric scraps as a substitute
for rope.
Elizabeth
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
Elizabeth Beaumont Elizabeth Walpole
Politarchopolis, Lochac Canberra Australia
ewalpole@austar.net.au

People are like stained glass windows. They sparkle and shine when the sun
is out, but when the darkness sets in ,their true beauty is revealed only if
there is light from within.
Elizabeth Kubler-Ross

The years that a woman subtracts from her age are not lost. They are added
to the ages of other women.
Diane de Poitiers (1499-1566) Attrib.

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Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2004 11:09:44 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Katie Pleasance <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
Subject: [h-cost] London: A city in time
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Television? What's that? We haven't watched TV for years ... lot's of garb 
movies on DVD ... Most recently 'First Knight' ... *BAD* garb! My Lord 
Husband liked the jousting, though ...

Katie


At 12:42 PM 6/11/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Has anyone else seen this program? It's been playing on US cable on the 
>Travel Channel. I caught it last night and found it interesting. They 
>recreate a lot of medieval and renaissance scenes with costumed extras and 
>computer generated effects.
>It's playing several more times this week.
>http://travel.discovery.com/schedule/episode.jsp?episode=0&cpi=105993&gid=0&channel=TRV



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Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2004 14:10:11 -0400 (EDT)
From: Janet Renzetti <celtic_dragonrider@yahoo.ca>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Ideas for charging for services
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People get to know what works and what doesn't and who they need to talk to.  Word of mouth is more powerful than anything else.  The people that go to you because of her stuff would turn around and tell others to do the same.  FOr me it feels all the more that I don't want to raisemy fees because of people like that that have hurt the customes enough.
 
Janet

Molly Boone <Rampant_Peacock@comcast.net> wrote:
I personally find it disturbing to see the failures of those who call
themselves professionals and seeing what some turn out.

There is a woman who I will not name who used to be attached to the acting
troop I have belonged to for 10 years. There is a doublet she made for
someone that she charged an OBSCENE amount of money for and honestly it had
issues n top of that she had him buy more than 2 times the material needed
to make the "finished" garment. The doublet is a false slash and puff
brocade doublet in black and scarlet brocade and the inside isn't even
lined. Consider this doublet was for fair/stage combat, to me this is
inexcusable.

I watched this same person turn out costume after costume with the same kind
of material overbuying (and she kept all leftovers) all of them are ill
fitting, blow seams regularly, or otherwise have problems. and she had to
have been charging over $20/hour for work. I can't even remember how many
of them have come to me to have things redone and she won't give any sort of
quality guarantee. I wont even go into her inability to make deadlines.

*sigh* I'll admit I remember that an make sure I do the opposite. The best
thing that has happened is that myself and 2 others have taken enough
commissions that she disappeared because she couldn't compete in quality or
costs.

Molly



-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Janet Renzetti
Sent: Thursday, June 10, 2004 7:59 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ideas for charging for services


HEy Gia

You hit it exactly. I have seen some people strut around so proud of their
stuff, but I look at it wonder where it came from. If they are novice at
the sewing and these ar ethe outfits they are putting out, then CONGRATS to
them because it is a lot of work. IF they paid someone to do it, then it
wouldbe ncie to go over their stuff and point out where they need to have to
changed for future garments.

My dresses usually either Tudor or 12th century and well fitting to me. My
children have well fit dublets to go in when I go Tudor. My children
usually match my clothes (keeping with period--matching material and style).
Because we are walking advertisements int he SCA, we get compliments and a
criticisms (criticisms are helpful by those who ave done more research who
can sew a bit better than me).

When we go 12th or I sew 12th for others, it fits enough that it isn't
awkward, but loose and a bt drapy (T-tunics and long dresses with lacing up
the back). THe waist is held by a belt anyways. I like wearing these
sreses because they are so comfortable and you don't need to wear housands
of layers.

I know this wandered a little from the topic (I just got up), but the detail
required, which was the topic, varies with he garment as you and I know and
gives the flexibility that we can workwith. Also research sure helps.

Janet
Gia wrote:
Janet, LOL! You are *so* right. My guy friend brought over the
'elizabethan costume' that some one else made for him and it was *so*
painful to see. Ohmigosh! *SUCH* a horrible fit, wrong fabric and
obviously worn out. *shudder*. Apparently it was the only 'good' costume
he had...poor guy!

When I am finished making him his bartered elizabethan shirt, cote and
upperstocks he will *know* why I was so demanding.

Yet, when I sew the simple t-tunics, I only need to take the required
measurements, maybe one fitting (just to make sure the sleeves are the right
length, maybe) and then out the door with it. I can usually make those in a
day or two, depending on the 'details' requested.

Happy stitching!
Emer \ Gia
----- Original Message -----
From: "Janet Renzetti"
To: "Historical Costume"
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2004 7:10 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ideas for charging for services


> Gia
>
> I completely agree with that for a properly fitted outfit. An outfit that
doesn't matter so much you have flexibility with. An ELizabethan does not.
If it doesn't fit right then it is a disaster.
>
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] London: A city in time
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> Has anyone else seen this program? It's been playing on US cable on the
> Travel Channel. I caught it last night and found it interesting. They
> recreate a lot of medieval and renaissance scenes with costumed extras
> and computer generated effects.
>
> It's playing several more times this week.
>
> http://travel.discovery.com/schedule/episode.jsp?episode=0&cpi=105993&gid=0&channel=TRV
>

Dawn,

Thanks for sharing.  It sounds really interesting and on the website you
gave, you can have them give you a reminder that it is on.  That's pretty
cool!


Diana Habra
www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2004 11:31:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help please with Tudor!
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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> I am making half a toile dress for a display in July (the half is so that
> the other half will
> reveal the undergarments). It is to give an indication of the shape and
> structure of Mary I's
> wedding dress when she married Philip II in 1554.  The colourways are
> based on the
> eyewitness reports of the wedding, with the possible actual garments as
> recorded in her
> wardrobe accounts, so it is the classic Tudor 'French gown' as seen in her
> state portraits.
> I've never done much Tudor patterning, but I've been going fine until I
> hit the sleeves and
> neck. I want the pattern to be as accurate as possible, but don't have the
> time to research
> it properly from scratch. So I thought I'd ask Those Who Know.
>
> My questions are:
> 1) Is she wearing a partlet over a low-necked bodice front, or would the
> neckline be
> slightly higher?
> 2) Do partlets have a seam at the shoulder?
> 3) What does the neckline do at the back?
> 4) Do the turned back fur oversleeves come to a point or a curve at the
> bottom?

Hilary,

I made a Tudor gown many years ago and as I did my research, I realized
that the fabric at the shoulders was extremely narrow.  It seemed like the
sleeves would never stay up with them that way.  So what I did was make
the back high and in a V shape so that the shaping would help the sleeves
stay on the shoulder.  It worked marvelously!  And I didn't take the idea
straight out of my head, I got the idea from a drawing that Holbein did of
a Tudor lady where you could see the front and back.

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/backsketch.jpg

Check out the back between the headdress and you will see what I mean. 
This type of back closure kept the sleeves up and very comfortable.

As to your other questions, I am not sure but I bet someone else will have
an idea....

Diana Habra
www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2004 11:52:48 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Kids and TV (OT)
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At 7:27 AM -0400 6/8/04, <basyefelton@floodcity.net> wrote:
>the thing that has most impressed me with my
>distaste for TV especially in young kids is the sight of a child sitting
>in front of the TV with eyes glued to the set for 3-4 hours on end, unable
>to tear their eyes away when spoken to and actually unhearing when spoken
>to.   the mindless looks on their faces is scary.    Kitty

OTOH, I'm exactly like that when I'm reading a book... just ask my mother.
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2004 11:40:08 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
Subject: Re: corded farthingales (wasRe: [h-cost] Corset)
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At 2:06 PM -0400 6/11/04, Janet Renzetti wrote:
>I know this is SOOOO not period, but a quick way to make a 
>farthingale hoope is steel binding.  A friend of mine made his wife 
>one that way, and so I had one done for me.  He works in a warehouse 
>and so the pallets are wrapped sometimes in 1" wide binding. The 
>great thing is tha I can drive while wearing it because it is 
>posable.  One day I might do a proper one and get full research 
>going for it, but it is a make do thing and since I don't wear it 
>that often, too hard to chase kids, when I don't have a servant, I 
>only wear it for special occasions.

That's what mine uses -- in my case, 1-inch steel strapping I picked 
up for free at a lumber yard. It works splendidly and is nice and 
flexible -- I can walk through a room of folding chairs without 
knocking any of them over :)

Only a few disadvantages -- (1) it does tend to wear through any 
fabric casing you put it in eventually, (2) you have to remove it to 
wash the farthingale, and (3) it's kind of on the heavy side compared 
to some other things I've seen used. But my metal hoops are now on 
their second cloth farthingale and still going strong after almost 
ten years.
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Jun 11 15:53:26 2004
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From: "Wendi Harper-Bartell" <wendirae@bellsouth.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Victorian Shoemaking & Supplies
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Hello,
I have been lurking for a while, but I wanted to come out of the shadows to ask a question. Does anyone have any information/gudiance on making Victorian shoes including supplies, patterns, etc. I know that Amazon Dry Goods has a shoe catalog but I haven't ordered it yet, does anyone know if they carry the pieces/parts necessary to make your own shoes or do they just offer pre-made shoes?

Thank you,
Wendi
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: corded farthingales (wasRe: [h-cost] Corset)
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Tomorrow I am going to try out my fhirst corded petticoat.
I used hemp rope for the stiffening.
It isn't very stif like the metal hoops so it doesn't stand out as a 
nice cone.
And it is heaveyer than my springsteel petticoat.
But it is probably better when you have to move in small rooms.

Greetings,
        Deredere

Chris Laning wrote:

> At 2:06 PM -0400 6/11/04, Janet Renzetti wrote:
>
>> I know this is SOOOO not period, but a quick way to make a 
>> farthingale hoope is steel binding.  A friend of mine made his wife 
>> one that way, and so I had one done for me.  He works in a warehouse 
>> and so the pallets are wrapped sometimes in 1" wide binding. The 
>> great thing is tha I can drive while wearing it because it is 
>> posable.  One day I might do a proper one and get full research going 
>> for it, but it is a make do thing and since I don't wear it that 
>> often, too hard to chase kids, when I don't have a servant, I only 
>> wear it for special occasions.
>
>
> That's what mine uses -- in my case, 1-inch steel strapping I picked 
> up for free at a lumber yard. It works splendidly and is nice and 
> flexible -- I can walk through a room of folding chairs without 
> knocking any of them over :)
>
> Only a few disadvantages -- (1) it does tend to wear through any 
> fabric casing you put it in eventually, (2) you have to remove it to 
> wash the farthingale, and (3) it's kind of on the heavy side compared 
> to some other things I've seen used. But my metal hoops are now on 
> their second cloth farthingale and still going strong after almost ten 
> years.




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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Victorian Shoemaking & Supplies
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2004 15:21:28 -0500
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They sell shoes, not stuff to make your own.



-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Wendi Harper-Bartell
Sent: Friday, June 11, 2004 2:49 PM
To: h-costume@net.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Victorian Shoemaking & Supplies


Hello,
I have been lurking for a while, but I wanted to come out of the shadows
to ask a question. Does anyone have any information/gudiance on making
Victorian shoes including supplies, patterns, etc. I know that Amazon
Dry Goods has a shoe catalog but I haven't ordered it yet, does anyone
know if they carry the pieces/parts necessary to make your own shoes or
do they just offer pre-made shoes?

Thank you,
Wendi
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] London: A city in time
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I saw the last hour of it. IMHO, the program tried to do too much and
fell short as a result. 

Arlys

On Fri, 11 Jun 2004 12:42:15 -0500 Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> writes:
> Has anyone else seen this program? It's been playing on US cable on 
> the 
> Travel Channel. I caught it last night and found it interesting. 
> They 
> recreate a lot of medieval and renaissance scenes with costumed 
> extras 
> and computer generated effects.
> 
> It's playing several more times this week.
> 
>
http://travel.discovery.com/schedule/episode.jsp?episode=0&cpi=105993&gid
=0&channel=TRV
> 
> 
> 
> Dawn
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
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>I have been lurking for a while, but I wanted to come out of the shadows to 
>ask a question. Does anyone have any information/gudiance on making 
>Victorian shoes including supplies, patterns, etc.

I'd cosy up to a real shoe repair person/shop and find out what I could
that way.

       CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
         www.FunStuft.com

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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

FYI it is also at the bottom of every post!> 

Sg  :)
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> My questions are:
> 1) Is she wearing a partlet over a low-necked bodice front, or would
> the neckline be slightly higher?

It is a partlet over a regular square neck gown.

 2) Do partlets have a seam at the
> shoulder?

Yes. It makes the collar easier to fit.

 3) What does the neckline do at the back?

It's in a V shape. But the deepest part of the V is still above the 
level of the lower curve of the armscye (so that it is still covered 
by the back of the partlet.)

 4) Do the turned
> back fur oversleeves come to a point or a curve at the bottom?

The edges should meet so that they form a curve, not a point.

While you can document all of this using portraits and sketches from 
this time (and descriptions from wardrobes and the like), Jean 
Hunnisett's book "Costumes for Stage and Screen" (the one that starts 
with the 16th C) actually is the best patterning I've seen or worked 
with for that period of dress. It has diagrams for the sleeves, the 
gown and the partlet.

I take it you have the article on Mary Tudor's clothes from the 
Costume Journal.

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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To this subject:  A lady I know from our local SCA group has a leather shop 
that has been in the family for several generations. Among other things this 
store supplies the local shoemakers with leather soles, etc.
The other day when I needed some suede and other leather I was there and saw 
that she still has supplies from Victorian times that just have not sold, like 
shoe buttons.  She was bagging them up and selling them cheap.  At least 
cheap for buttons.  I cannot remember how much, I just thought it was extremely 
reasonable for a couple of dozen per bag.
If anyone is interested in this I will forward her email privately.  Please 
get in touch with me.
Elisabeth
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Jun 11 20:04:22 2004
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Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2004 17:05:38 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian Shoemaking & Supplies
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>To this subject:  A lady I know from our local SCA group has a leather shop 
>that has been in the family for several generations. Among other things this 
>store supplies the local shoemakers with leather soles, etc.
>The other day when I needed some suede and other leather I was there and saw 
>that she still has supplies from Victorian times that just have not sold,
like 
>shoe buttons.  She was bagging them up and selling them cheap.  At least 
>cheap for buttons.  I cannot remember how much, I just thought it was 
>extremely 
>reasonable for a couple of dozen per bag.
>If anyone is interested in this I will forward her email privately.  Please 
>get in touch with me.

Yes I am interested.  What else did she want to get rid of?

       CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
         www.FunStuft.com

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Jun 11 20:10:09 2004
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: corded farthingales (wasRe: [h-cost] Corset)
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is the farthingale a corset or a skirt?   I'm SO not up on the older
periods.   what era is it?   thanks,  kitty

Janet Renzetti wrote:
> 
> I know this is SOOOO not period, but a quick way to make a farthingale hoope is steel binding.  A friend of mine made his wife one that way, and so I had one done for me.  He works in a warehouse and so the pallets are wrapped sometimes in 1" wide binding. The great thing is tha I can drive while wearing it because it is posable.  One day I might do a proper one and get full research going for it, but it is a make do thing and since I don't wear it that often, too hard to chase kids, when I don't have a servant, I only wear it for special occasions.
> 
> Janet
> 
> Elizabeth Walpole <ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au> wrote:
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Hilary Davidson"
> To: ; ;
> Sent: Thursday, June 10, 2004 1:45 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corset
> 
> > I'd be interested in trying the rolled fabric way of stiffening for the
> fathingale, because it's
> > Not Fun wrestling with yards of damp willow for the hoops. But it's been
> an interesting
> > process of discovery with it, and had radically changed my ideas on its
> purpose and
> > construction.
> >
> 
> Well I know Drea Aleed's site has something about a rope or cord stiffened
> farthingale and I'm pretty sure it's got documentation to back it up
> (http://costume.dm.net/ in case you aren't familiar with it or haven't
> bookmarked it) I expect you could use rags or fabric scraps as a substitute
> for rope.
> Elizabeth
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> ----
> Elizabeth Beaumont Elizabeth Walpole
> Politarchopolis, Lochac Canberra Australia
> ewalpole@austar.net.au
> 
> People are like stained glass windows. They sparkle and shine when the sun
> is out, but when the darkness sets in ,their true beauty is revealed only if
> there is light from within.
> Elizabeth Kubler-Ross
> 
> The years that a woman subtracts from her age are not lost. They are added
> to the ages of other women.
> Diane de Poitiers (1499-1566) Attrib.
> 
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> ---------------------------------
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Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2004 17:18:47 -0700
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian Shoemaking & Supplies
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>To this subject:  A lady I know from our local SCA group has a leather shop 
>that has been in the family for several generations. Among other things this 
>store supplies the local shoemakers with leather soles, etc.
>The other day when I needed some suede and other leather I was there and saw 
>that she still has supplies from Victorian times that just have not sold,
like 
>shoe buttons.  She was bagging them up and selling them cheap.  At least 
>cheap for buttons.  I cannot remember how much, I just thought it was 
>extremely 
>reasonable for a couple of dozen per bag.
>If anyone is interested in this I will forward her email privately.  Please 
>get in touch with me.

Yes I am interested.  What else did she want to get rid of? 

       CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
         www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Kids and TV (OT)
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Bingo!  That's my problem with reading, too!  Once I've gotten into a book,
I can be lost in the story and not be coherent for a bit, when interrupted.
Takes a little time to readjust to now, when I've be 'gone'.  So, if I need
to get things done, I know I cannot start reading anything.

If you've seen Yenta (gee- I think that's the right title - it's been so
long ago!) the movie about the jewish girl (Barbara Striesand who diguises
her self as a boy to go some sort of school) who routinely burned meals
because she got caught up in her reading.
You'll have a somewhat good picture of me with a book.

Emer \ Gia
>
> OTOH, I'm exactly like that when I'm reading a book... just ask my mother.
> -- 
> _________________________________________________________
> O    Chris Laning
> |     <claning@igc.org>
> +    Davis, California
> _________________________________________________________
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Ok, mea culpa, however, I've never read a book with my mouth hanging
open.   and I CAN hear, it just takes a while to work it's way into the
18th century and drag me back forward in time.  LOL   Kitty

Chris Laning wrote:
> 
> At 7:27 AM -0400 6/8/04, <basyefelton@floodcity.net> wrote:
> >the thing that has most impressed me with my
> >distaste for TV especially in young kids is the sight of a child sitting
> >in front of the TV with eyes glued to the set for 3-4 hours on end, unable
> >to tear their eyes away when spoken to and actually unhearing when spoken
> >to.   the mindless looks on their faces is scary.    Kitty
> 
> OTOH, I'm exactly like that when I'm reading a book... just ask my mother.
> --
> _________________________________________________________
> O    Chris Laning
> |     <claning@igc.org>
> +    Davis, California
> _________________________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help please with Tudor!
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I highly recommended Costume Connections pater 1603W Early Tudor Women 
http://www.patternsoftime.com/patterns/Costume_Conn/COS1603W.gif it is 
$13.00 at http://www.patternsoftime.com/cat45.html it is an easy pattern and 
adapt well to other patterns. I have used the sleeve from Mantu Makers 
pattern as well as Simplicity and McCalls patterns.

Wilhelmina

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Thank you everyone who wrote to me personally.  I will see Linda at an event 
tomorrow and will ask her for her contact info for the business.  I will email 
everyone privately tomorrow night or Sunday.
Thanks
Elisabeth
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Something I find works when doing custom work is asking the customer how much they were wanting to spend. This way I can figure out if they want serious historical garb or a fun costume, what quality of materials and how much detail work they are interested in. Or if I'll flat out refuse because they don't think my time is worth anything. 

I also tend to charge on a sliding scale. Really nice people with no money who want really exciting work done will pay a lot less than some rich priss who wants some cliche princess dress.

Bartering is also great. I got someone to clean my basement for camping garb and a monster costume.

Wendy
www.hecate.ca/emma/

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Arrache piec a dents

Possibly used for unraveling the edges of fabric to create fringe.

Does anyone know (a) what this is/is used for and (b) what it is called 
in English?

Thanks for any info,

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Kitty Felton" <basyefelton@floodcity.net>


> is the farthingale a corset or a skirt?   I'm SO not up on the older
> periods.   what era is it?   thanks,  kitty
>

Hi Kitty,

a farthingale is the Tudor/Elizabethan version of a hoopskirt petticoat.
Instead of a bell shape it is cone shaped.

http://costume.dm.net/farthingale/history.html

Later Elizabethan gowns had what was called a wheel farthingale that looks
like this:
http://www.farthingales.on.ca/wheel_farthingale.htm

Sheridan

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Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2004 00:48:05 -0400
From: Kitty Felton <basyefelton@floodcity.net>
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Oh, no that wouldn't work for me.  to much hip
I think my hip area would be better incorperated into something which
imitates my figure, hoops or bustles, or both.  LOL   Kitty

Shane & Sheridan wrote:
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kitty Felton" <basyefelton@floodcity.net>
> 
> > is the farthingale a corset or a skirt?   I'm SO not up on the older
> > periods.   what era is it?   thanks,  kitty
> >
> 
> Hi Kitty,
> 
> a farthingale is the Tudor/Elizabethan version of a hoopskirt petticoat.
> Instead of a bell shape it is cone shaped.
> 
> http://costume.dm.net/farthingale/history.html
> 
> Later Elizabethan gowns had what was called a wheel farthingale that looks
> like this:
> http://www.farthingales.on.ca/wheel_farthingale.htm
> 
> Sheridan
> 
> =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
> 
> Not one shred of evidence supports the notion that life is serious.
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: Kitty Felton <basyefelton@floodcity.net>
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Although, I'll have to admit, I would never need a bum roll.  teehee
nah, I think I am more suited to the victorian era.   I have an soft
spot for pioneers and Miss Kitty and Marshall Dillon.   LOL

	after all, how could I abandon my Name sake (sort of)  
yours in dress, Kitty

Shane & Sheridan wrote:

> 
> Hi Kitty,
> 
> a farthingale is the Tudor/Elizabethan version of a hoopskirt petticoat.
> Instead of a bell shape it is cone shaped.
> 
> http://costume.dm.net/farthingale/history.html
> 
> Later Elizabethan gowns had what was called a wheel farthingale that looks
> like this:
> http://www.farthingales.on.ca/wheel_farthingale.htm
> 
> Sheridan
>

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Victorian Shoemaking & Supplies
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I would also be interested.
Thank you.
-Megan

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Carolyn Kayta Barrows
Sent: Friday, June 11, 2004 8:19 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian Shoemaking & Supplies

>To this subject:  A lady I know from our local SCA group has a leather shop

>that has been in the family for several generations. Among other things
this 
>store supplies the local shoemakers with leather soles, etc.
>The other day when I needed some suede and other leather I was there and
saw 
>that she still has supplies from Victorian times that just have not sold,
like 
>shoe buttons.  She was bagging them up and selling them cheap.  At least 
>cheap for buttons.  I cannot remember how much, I just thought it was 
>extremely 
>reasonable for a couple of dozen per bag.
>If anyone is interested in this I will forward her email privately.  Please

>get in touch with me.

Yes I am interested.  What else did she want to get rid of? 

       CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
         www.FunStuft.com

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Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2004 09:59:08 -0400 (EDT)
From: Janet Renzetti <celtic_dragonrider@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] charging for work
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My customers are usually SCA so I know what they are looking for and most of the people I know, so I generally know what I need to offer them and what to take.  I always watch the discount bins and have a good store that sells material cheap.  I recommend it, give them the option to give me the material, or trust me to get something and then give them a copy of the receipt at the end.  I also give thema  log sheet f my hours with the rate of pay and a total along with an invoice.  The customer says it is all not needed, bt I'd rather have it out since the work is time and I would appreciate that attention if y position was in the reverse.  Also, the price of material and how much was spent I would like to know so that I knew I wasn't being taken.  I like honesty.
 
Janet

Wendy <emmajean@myway.com> wrote:


Something I find works when doing custom work is asking the customer how much they were wanting to spend. This way I can figure out if they want serious historical garb or a fun costume, what quality of materials and how much detail work they are interested in. Or if I'll flat out refuse because they don't think my time is worth anything. 

I also tend to charge on a sliding scale. Really nice people with no money who want really exciting work done will pay a lot less than some rich priss who wants some cliche princess dress.

Bartering is also great. I got someone to clean my basement for camping garb and a monster costume.

Wendy
www.hecate.ca/emma/

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Hi Janet!  I whole heartedly agree.  The last time I didn't do this, it was
for a banner that my "life" kept me from working on.  Since I didn't keep a
log, when the SCA customer wanted to know what I'd been doing (despite my
frequent emailed updates) on the banner.  It got to the point where the SCA
customer demanded that I either reimburse him for the $100 he gave me for
the materials or to complete the banner and give to him by XX date.  Poor
customer... I was forced to give it back unfinished.  I'd done massive
amounts of work on it, for which I will never see a penny.  Buying the
fabric, drafting the patterns, putting together the background of the
banner, prepping it for applicaeing of the main charges.  But I didn't keep
a log.  Stupid mistake.  But it's my own fault.

At the time I was commissioned, I began suffering massively from CTS and not
able to sew *anything* (not even my beloved neeldepointing) .  The poor
customer had been waiting for about a year for the banner, and unfortunately
every time I had said it would be done, a massive attack of life happened.

This is a *very* rare for me to not have something done by a date I had
promised, but it didn't make it any easier for the poor customer or me.  But
I did the best I could given my circumstances.

Don't think the customer will ever forgive me.

Emer \ Gia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Janet Renzetti" <celtic_dragonrider@yahoo.ca>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 12, 2004 6:59 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] charging for work


> My customers are usually SCA so I know what they are looking for and most
of the people I know, so I generally know what I need to offer them and what
to take.  I always watch the discount bins and have a good store that sells
material cheap.  I recommend it, give them the option to give me the
material, or trust me to get something and then give them a copy of the
receipt at the end.  I also give thema  log sheet f my hours with the rate
of pay and a total along with an invoice.  The customer says it is all not
needed, bt I'd rather have it out since the work is time and I would
appreciate that attention if y position was in the reverse.  Also, the price
of material and how much was spent I would like to know so that I knew I
wasn't being taken.  I like honesty.
>
> Janet
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help please with Tudor!
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Thanks all for your very helpful comments. I do have the articles on Mary's wardrobe from 
Costume, which have been helpful in their own way. Regarding Hunnisett, she was the 
first place I tried to look, but I don't have my own copy here, and my art/textiles/fashion 
focussed college DOESN"T HAVE any of her books! I was shocked - I sort of thought they 
were compulsory :) I wrote to the library immediately *suggesting* that they might want to 
look into buying them.

<While you can document all of this using portraits and sketches from 
this time (and descriptions from wardrobes and the like), Jean 
Hunnisett's book "Costumes for Stage and Screen" (the one that starts 
with the 16th C) actually is the best patterning I've seen or worked 
with for that period of dress. It has diagrams for the sleeves, the 
gown and the partlet.>
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Subject: Re:[h-cost] Victorian Shoemaking & Supplies
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Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2004 20:48:44 +0100 (BST)
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<Does anyone have any information/gudiance on making Victorian shoes including 
supplies, patterns, etc. I know that Amazon Dry Goods has a shoe catalog but I haven't 
ordered it yet, does anyone know if they carry the pieces/parts necessary to make your 
own shoes or do they just offer pre-made shoes?>

Hi Wendy, 

Can I be honest here and say, IMHO, it's not worth your while trying to make Victorian 
shoes unless you want to be really serious about it. You'll save time, money, effort, 
frustration and flesh wounds if you find a good shoemaker and commission a pair. 
Shoemaking from the nineteenth century is specialised and difficult, and to get a finish 
anywhere near period examples takes a long time to learn. I was an apprentice couture 
shoemaker for three years, and would still think hard about doing it myself. Of course, it 
depends on what level of quality you want, in which case please ignore my tuppence 
worth. But skilled shoemakers are a dying breed, and should be supported at every turn! 

I should go and do some real, non-soapbox work now!

Cheers, 
Hilary
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Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2004 17:28:45 -0400
Subject: Re: [h-cost] blue ribbed silk waistcoat
From: Marsha J Hamilton <mjh@pearlandplume.com>
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Bjarne,

Did you ever finish the outfit you were making based on Gustaf III's
Weddingsuit at Livrustkammaren in Stockholm?  Is there a URL for the
completed ensemble? I'd love to see how it turned out.  Thanks.

Marsha
-------

> I have started a new hobby, i tryed to make some ribbon embroidery.
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/chenillesuit.htm

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From: "lisa-list" <lisa-list@thrednedlestrete.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] international wages for textile workers
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2004 15:59:18 -0700
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Since this conversation, I managed with some leads from Ruthann, to find the
Fair Trade Federation which had some leads to embroidery co-operatives and
have been enquiring about getting some items commissioned by organisations
that work so that the artists actually receives money for his/her labors.
As a sample I was emailed this beautiful unicorn embroidery.... its just
beautiful http://www.thrednedlestrete.com/Bulletinboard.htm  Don't have a
price on it yet but maybe someone in dire straits would like a job making
fingerlooped braids, thread wrapped buttons.  Items that could sell, but not
for western wages.

Lisa Sinervo
who still hates this whole world ecomony!!!!


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of E House
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2004 12:33 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] international wages for textile workers


I think the fact that in these areas, jobs of any sort are often scarce
should not be forgotten. Jobs that a lot of Americans would consider
'sweatshop jobs' are highly prized and generally have dozens or even
hundreds more applicants than there are openings. Would you rather employ
people who could easily find another job for the same wage in the 1st world,
and wouldn't starve even if they couldn't find any job at all, or would you
rather employ someone who has very few other options, and may be in serious
trouble if they don't find work?

-E (spent her childhood in a 3rd world country)

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Subject: [h-cost] Victiorian Boots
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Hello everyone,
 
I have a customer who would like a pair of laced, heeled boots for her wedding. Modernly referred to as "granny boots". This style being currently out of mainstream fashion, she is having a hard time locating a reasonably priced - under $150 CDN - white pair. Does anyone have any ideas where a pair could be found?
 
Many thanks
 
Kathy



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Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 02:03:34 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victiorian Boots
From: <basyefelton@floodcity.net>
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> Hello everyone,
>
> I have a customer who would like a pair of laced, heeled boots for her
> wedding. Modernly referred to as "granny boots". This style being
> currently out of mainstream fashion, she is having a hard time locating
> a reasonably priced - under $150 CDN - white pair. Does anyone have any
> ideas where a pair could be found?
>
> Many thanks
>
> Kathy


there's two pair on ebay for 19.99 each.  Kitty


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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Victiorian Boots
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 02:30:08 -0500
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http://www.amazondrygoods.com/

The shoe catalog is $5.
They shoe a pair of buttonhigh shoes in white.

De
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sark?
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 07:57:43 -0500
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It is a chemise; a 'Cutty Sark' refers to a short version of same. Don't
remember how that relates to the ship but there you go.

Nora
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lena Strid" <lstrid@mglarc.com>

Does anyone here know what a 'sark' is? It's mentioned in a wardrobe account
from Mary Queen of Scots (see quote below). My only theory is that it's a
Scottish word for chemise, considering that quite a few words in Northern
England/Scotland have Scandinavian ancestry, and it is very similar to the
Swedish word for chemise ('särk').

"There were five silk gowns, two others (presumably of wool since the
material is not specified), three waistcoats or petticoats, a pair of
sheets, eight sarks, two napkins and a kerchief, a pair of drawers (calsons)
two or three pairs of hose, and 'ane saiting patecleyth' (a satin
head-dress)."

/Lena


=================================================
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sark?
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>It is a chemise; a 'Cutty Sark' refers to a short version of same. Don't
>remember how that relates to the ship but there you go.

Somebody was watching some spirits dancing in their sarks, and made the
mistake of commenting out loud about one particularly good-looking female
one of them.  She began chasing after him, and he was only saved by
crossing a bridge - the spirit couldn't follow him over running water.  The
ship 'Cutty Sark' was named after this legend, or this particular spirit,
and the ship's figurehead is a statue of this spirit in her sark.  Odd
choice of names, because this ship, named after a spirit that couldn't
cross water, is the last of her kind, all the others having wrecked or sunk
by now.

       CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
         www.FunStuft.com

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re:[h-cost] Victorian Shoemaking & Supplies
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You'll save time, 
>money, effort, 
>frustration and flesh wounds if you find a good shoemaker and commission a 
>pair.

Option one:
In California, or anywhere else with a large Hispanic population, go find
where the Folklorico dancers get their shoes.  This may mean having
measurements taken and waiting for the shoes to be made in Mexico.  But the
high lace-up boots that serious Folklorico dancers, female, wear are
probably made the same way Victorian/Edwardian boots were made, and
possibly still on the same Victorian/Edwardian lasts.

Option two:
Get a copy of Every Woman Her Own Shoemaker, and follow the instructions in
there.  This is a pamphlet-sized book I have seen but do not own (yet),
originally published sometime in the mid-1800s, which has step by step
directions for making some kinds of Victorian footwear without specialized
tools.  Check the re-enactor supply places to see who has republished this
and sells it.

Option three:
Mary Wales Loomis has a book out called Making your Own Shoes and Handbags.
 Ms. Loomis doesn't do historical shoes, but her method is so good that you
will still end up with wearable costume shoes if you follow her directions
and can extrapolate a pattern for what you want.  Her shoes are made using
modern techniques, and Barge's All Purpose Glue, instead of traditional
methods, but they look fine from the outside.

       CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
         www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victiorian Boots
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 13:03:56 -0400
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Ufortunately, the price of the shoes will be way over the 150.00 budget in
the original post. I had this catologue years ago and remember being very
surprised at the cost of the shoes.

Sheridan

----- Original Message -----
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 13, 2004 3:30 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Victiorian Boots


> http://www.amazondrygoods.com/
>
> The shoe catalog is $5.
> They shoe a pair of buttonhigh shoes in white.
>
> De
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victiorian Boots
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They have them off and on over at ebay. Wedding boots in satin, vintage
granny boots, etc.  I needed them for a show and found six pair.  She should
type in boot(s) and lace(s) or laced--- white also if she wants, but that
might narrow the search too much.  Right now I couldn't find many, but I can
almost guarantee she will find the perfect pair if she's got a few months.
There is also www.zappos.com, they have like all the shoes in the world.

angela

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kathy Page" <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
To: "Historical Costume List" <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 12, 2004 7:35 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Victiorian Boots


> Hello everyone,
>
> I have a customer who would like a pair of laced, heeled boots for her
wedding. Modernly referred to as "granny boots". This style being currently
out of mainstream fashion, she is having a hard time locating a reasonably
priced - under $150 CDN - white pair. Does anyone have any ideas where a
pair could be found?
>
> Many thanks
>
> Kathy
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Post your free ad now! Yahoo! Canada Personals
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victiorian Boots
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"Granny boots" are not high fashion currently; but often a manufacturer 
or two still makes a boot in this style for fall/winter.  I got a very 
nice taupe pair on clearance this past January (or was it December?) for 
$10.  However, most manufacturers view ankle boots of any style (and 
ankle boots, or [shudder] "booties,"  is the category they are likely to 
be lumped into) as strictly a fall/winter fashion.  This is the worst 
time of year to find them. 

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
Two new books of 1870s and 1880s patterns!
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Cabbage Rose Costumes wrote:

>Right now I couldn't find many, but I can
>almost guarantee she will find the perfect pair if she's got a few months.
>There is also www.zappos.com, they have like all the shoes in the world.
>  
>
>  
>
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I typed in White granny boots and got two pair, different sizes,
finishes in 2-3 days i think.   try different ways of searching and you
will get more hits I bet depending on how the seller discribed them.   
Kitty

Cabbage Rose Costumes wrote:
> 
> They have them off and on over at ebay. Wedding boots in satin, vintage
> granny boots, etc.  I needed them for a show and found six pair.  She should
> type in boot(s) and lace(s) or laced--- white also if she wants, but that
> might narrow the search too much.  Right now I couldn't find many, but I can
> almost guarantee she will find the perfect pair if she's got a few months.
> There is also www.zappos.com, they have like all the shoes in the world.
> 
> angela
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kathy Page" <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
> To: "Historical Costume List" <h-costume@net.indra.com>
> Sent: Saturday, June 12, 2004 7:35 PM
> Subject: [h-cost] Victiorian Boots
> 
> > Hello everyone,
> >
> > I have a customer who would like a pair of laced, heeled boots for her
> wedding. Modernly referred to as "granny boots". This style being currently
> out of mainstream fashion, she is having a hard time locating a reasonably
> priced - under $150 CDN - white pair. Does anyone have any ideas where a
> pair could be found?
> >
> > Many thanks
> >
> > Kathy
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Post your free ad now! Yahoo! Canada Personals
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: [h-cost] Victorian Shoemaking & Supplies/Victiorian Boots
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>From: Hilary Davidson <hbgd103@soton.ac.uk>
>Can I be honest here and say, IMHO, it's not worth your while trying to 
>make Victorian
>shoes unless you want to be really serious about it. You'll save time, 
>money, effort,
>frustration and flesh wounds if you find a good shoemaker and commission a 
>pair.
>Shoemaking from the nineteenth century is specialised and difficult, and to 
>get a finish
>anywhere near period examples takes a long time to learn. I was an 
>apprentice couture
>shoemaker for three years, and would still think hard about doing it 
>myself. Of course, it
>depends on what level of quality you want, in which case please ignore my 
>tuppence
>worth. But skilled shoemakers are a dying breed, and should be supported at 
>every turn!

Absolutely.  I've made modern shoes as well as the medieval ones, and while 
after about 8 years of practice,  I'm reasonably practiced and can turn out 
a relatively ok pair - but compared to people who actually DO shoemaking 
daily, I suck.  (Curiously, at this point I could probably *teach* it 
though...)

I have a friend who's a professional at this, and has offered more than once 
to make me a pair of Victorian walking boots at the seriously good discount 
of $500.  Properly done handmade shoes ain't cheap, and are still worth it.

From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
>Option two:
>Get a copy of Every Woman Her Own Shoemaker, and follow the instructions in
>there...

It's worth a try, but I was not terribly impressed with this book.  Plus it 
does take a lot of practice.

>Option three:
>Mary Wales Loomis has a book out called Making your Own Shoes and Handbags.
>Ms. Loomis doesn't do historical shoes, but her method is so good that 
>you...

Ok, this might be a workable fallback, particularly if they don't need to be 
worn more than once or twice.

You might also hit http://www.thehcc.org/cgi-bin/discus/discus.cgi  - tell 
them where you are, and what you are looking for.  They might be able to 
offer other suggestions.

Marc

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victiorian Boots
From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Since they're just for a wedding -- not long-term use, and your customer is
looking for inexpensive, try these sources:
http://www.westernweddingboots.com/
(check several of the styles, such as "western wedding boots" and "lace-up
Victorian style boots" for various options -- some of these boots come with
choice of heel and other options)
Try also Shepler's western wedding wear:
http://www.sheplers.com/cat.cfm?TID=053525&source=google_wedding_westernwedd
ing
Most of their western wedding boots seem to be $99 US, which should squeak
under the $150 CDN limit.
There are some very lacy models at $99 US here at Cultured Cowboy, too:
http://www.culturedcowboy.com/wedding/bridalwear/pages/bridalboots.htm

Good luck!
Lauren


> 
>> Hello everyone,
>> 
>> I have a customer who would like a pair of laced, heeled boots for her
> wedding. Modernly referred to as "granny boots". This style being currently
> out of mainstream fashion, she is having a hard time locating a reasonably
> priced - under $150 CDN - white pair. Does anyone have any ideas where a
> pair could be found?
>> 
>> Many thanks
>> 
>> Kathy

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian Shoemaking & Supplies/Victiorian Boots
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>>Option three:
>>Mary Wales Loomis has a book out called Making your Own Shoes and Handbags.
>>Ms. Loomis doesn't do historical shoes, but her method is so good that 
>>you...
>
>Ok, this might be a workable fallback, particularly if they don't need to be 
>worn more than once or twice.

I picked up my copy directly from her home.  The pair of shoes she made
that I held in my hand were just as good as the average commercial
offering.  Barge's cement is pretty good at holding things together under
normal use.  The number and composition of the inner layers she recommends
is the same as in a standard pair of women's shoes.  And I seem to recall
that she suggests having a shoe repair person attach the heels for you.  So
I'd say costume shoes made by her method would last as long as any
comparable modern pair of women's shoes would.

       CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
         www.FunStuft.com

             //// \\\
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian Shoemaking & Supplies/Victiorian Boots
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iI am forwarding this message to the list because several people asked for this info and I have permission freom my friend Linda to publish this info.
I wrote abot the satore she owns for shoemaking supplies.  It has been in the family since 1850.  There is still old inventory that has been around, I wrote about the shoe buttons.  For more information and prices please contact Linda Steffan at:
llsteffan@bluefrog.com
Linda asked for whoever writes to her to please use the subjectline:  SHOEBUTTONS.
She usually does not open emails from addresses she does not know, so the suybject line shoe buttons guarantees that your message will be read, rather than deleted.
Thanks
Elisabeth

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From: "lisa-list" <lisa-list@thrednedlestrete.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Victorian Shoemaking & Supplies/Victiorian Boots
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 06:02:43 -0700
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For those with a general interest in shoemaking, I suggest the book
"Handmade Shoes for Men" http://www.elegant-lifestyle.com/bom0601.htm This
is really a coffee table book with hundreds of pictures covering all the
steps of bespoke shoe making.  I doubt anyone likely to buy this book plans
on trying the methods out but it is very details and yummy.

Lisa Sinervo


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teawithablackdragon * wrote:
> http://www.patternsoftime.com/patterns/Costume_Conn/COS1603W.gif 

Oh dear. I do not have this pattern so I do not know if the picture on 
the cover accurately represents the contents. However, based on that 
picture I've always had serious reservations about using this pattern 
for a Tudor. For an 18th century gown maybe, but I've never seen an 
image of a Tudor gown that had that type of bodice. The wide opening in 
the front filled in with a panel is just non-existent on any Tudor 
images I've ever come across. The sleeves are rather dicey as well...

- Hope

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It is true that most tudor had a closed front, but it did fall just before th Elizabethan age and they did have open fronts or panels.  The pic could be also pre tudor.  12th century didn't have a skirt attatched to a bodice, but tudor did.  It can be made a little closer to proper Tudor.  Dettatch the sleeves and have them tie on and perhaps have a lace up front or some other similar alteration to the front and avoid attatching the front panel.  An under dress that shows through or a false front (skirt beneath the underdress that only has the fancy panel that shows, I know another layer sounds awful, but it is historically accurate).  YOu could cheat and attatch the pieace, like the picture shows, but sew it so it appears to be separate and no one would know the difference until they get close and examne the work.
 
Janet

Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu> wrote:


teawithablackdragon * wrote:
> http://www.patternsoftime.com/patterns/Costume_Conn/COS1603W.gif 

Oh dear. I do not have this pattern so I do not know if the picture on 
the cover accurately represents the contents. However, based on that 
picture I've always had serious reservations about using this pattern 
for a Tudor. For an 18th century gown maybe, but I've never seen an 
image of a Tudor gown that had that type of bodice. The wide opening in 
the front filled in with a panel is just non-existent on any Tudor 
images I've ever come across. The sleeves are rather dicey as well...

- Hope

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From: Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>
To: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victiorian Boots
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On ebay I often search for 19th century and Edwardian style shoes, I
can't stand what's available in fashionable shoes nowadays.  Never
thought I'd start avoiding going into shoe stores.

I find searching with the the words granny or victorian + boots will
find Victorian style boots, or if you go to the shoes category and type
@0 granny Victorian you will find about 200 items, many of which are
boots.

Hope this helps!

Katy

On Sat, 12 Jun 2004, Kathy Page wrote:

>Hello everyone,
>
>I have a customer who would like a pair of laced, heeled boots for her wedding. Modernly referred to as "granny boots". This style being currently out of mainstream fashion, she is having a hard time locating a reasonably priced - under $150 CDN - white pair. Does anyone have any ideas where a pair could be found?
>
>Many thanks
>
>Kathy
>
>
>
>---------------------------------
>Post your free ad now! Yahoo! Canada Personals
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>

Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 14:07:04 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victiorian Boots
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Thanks everyone for the suggestion to look on EBay. I had never thought of that! I forwarded the idea over to my customer. I have a pair of vintage boots in my collection that would likely fit, I am just loathe to part with them. They still have the shoemaker stamp showing on the bottom. :-)
 
Kathy

Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net> wrote:

On ebay I often search for 19th century and Edwardian style shoes, I
can't stand what's available in fashionable shoes nowadays. Never
thought I'd start avoiding going into shoe stores.

I find searching with the the words granny or victorian + boots will
find Victorian style boots, or if you go to the shoes category and type
@0 granny Victorian you will find about 200 items, many of which are
boots.

Hope this helps!

Katy


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>From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
>...is the same as in a standard pair of women's shoes.  And I seem to 
>recall
>that she suggests having a shoe repair person attach the heels for you.  So
>I'd say costume shoes made by her method would last as long as any
>comparable modern pair of women's shoes would.

I'm sure they would (this is probably a bad time to mention my really low 
opinion of the quality of most modern made shoes, and women's shoes in 
particular :)  You all are being really taken advantage of).

>From: "lisa-list" <lisa-list@thrednedlestrete.com>
>For those with a general interest in shoemaking, I suggest the book
>"Handmade Shoes for Men" http://www.elegant-lifestyle.com/bom0601.htm This
>is really a coffee table book with hundreds of pictures covering all the
>steps of bespoke shoe making.  I doubt anyone likely to buy this book plans
>on trying the methods out but it is very details and yummy.

You'd be surprised :)

Marc

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Victorian Shoemaking & Supplies/Victiorian
  Boots
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>I'm sure they would (this is probably a bad time to mention my really low 
>opinion of the quality of most modern made shoes, and women's shoes in 
>particular :)  You all are being really taken advantage of).

That things made for men's use are better made than things for women's use
has been known in my family since at least my grandfather.  He married my
grandmother about 1900, and bought shoemaker's leather-cutting knives for
paring knives for his new wife.  The knives outlived both of them, and were
still giving good service in the 1970s.  But hey - for costume shoes these
will do just fine.

       CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
         www.FunStuft.com

             //// \\\
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Greetings,

I've been naughty - I've been cruising the oh so tempting ebay, and came across this fashion print for sale.  http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=10167&item=3729663576&rd=1

Just out of curiosity, has anyone tried to do a detachable train similar to this one?  Does it actually work without some sort of support in the shoulder area?  At first glance I thought it was the sort of formal robe that you see at the bottom of this page: 
http://www.songsmyth.com/eveningdresses.html but it clearly isn't.  Now I'm interested in the mechanics of how it would work - I'm sure the fabrics used would effect the garments greatly...

Cheers,
Danielle


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	Mon, 14 Jun 2004 18:46:05 PDT
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 18:46:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian Boots
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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--- Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net> wrote:
> 
> On ebay I often search for 19th century and
> Edwardian style shoes, I
> can't stand what's available in fashionable shoes
> nowadays.  Never
> thought I'd start avoiding going into shoe stores.

You must be fortunate enough to have standard sized
feet then.
When I go to the specialty shoe store & pay retail, I
wish they made triple-wide shoes, 'cause regular
double wide have more than half an inch extra in front
of my toes.


But my lovely 14/15th century style shoes by Master
Dru (custom) fit Wonderfully.

Ann in CT


	
		
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From: "teawithablackdragon *" <wishingonasta60@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help please with Tudor!
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2004 02:01:18 +0000
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I know what you mean. When I bought the pattern I was just looking for an 
easy pattern to make garb and was not looking to something necessary 
historical accurate.  I look at pattern and said to myself I have never seen 
a Tudor gown that look quite like that. I was thinking of the Tudor's on the 
page http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/famouswomen.htm

The bodice on this pattern is two pieces and laces up the back.You can cut 
it as one. I need the seam and usually cut it as two of the same color and 
type of fabric. It has a narrow shoulder band.  It is the tricker part of 
the gown making bodice just right so it stays in place.The gown that I made 
that got past the SCA authentocrates was of one color and had detached 
sleeves as well as having  under and over skirt.

The only sleeve I like from the patten is the big one. The instructions for 
the pattern for the sleeves solved a number of problems for me and was worth 
the money I spent on the pattern.   The big sleeve looks great lined and 
turned back to the elbow and pined either to so the lining and the under 
sleeve. I have used the sleeve from Mantua Maker SpanishLoose Gown and from 
the Mantua Maker Round gown

In the picture the skirt it is actual two layers an underskirt and an 
overskirt, that trim going up the seam makes it looks like the cheat with 
the false.  The skirt is a two piece pattern and it is easy to adapt it to 
the cheat with false under panel.

Wilhelmina

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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 22:28:02 -0400 (EDT)
From: Janet Renzetti <celtic_dragonrider@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help please with Tudor!
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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SOunds as though you have aplan in mind and know how to adapt them.
 
I have drafted and eproduced this dress http://www.costumes.org/history/greatwomen/greatwomenlauedenoyes.jpg
 
Hopefully it works the way it should....but I made it for my sister 11yo and almost finished mine and my dughter's.  I hadn't seen a commercial pattern for it, but it turned out great.  I need to take pics of my sister to show how well  it cam out.  It was absolutely beautiful.
 
Janet


teawithablackdragon * <wishingonasta60@hotmail.com> wrote:

I know what you mean. When I bought the pattern I was just looking for an 
easy pattern to make garb and was not looking to something necessary 
historical accurate. I look at pattern and said to myself I have never seen 
a Tudor gown that look quite like that. I was thinking of the Tudor's on the 
page http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/famouswomen.htm

The bodice on this pattern is two pieces and laces up the back.You can cut 
it as one. I need the seam and usually cut it as two of the same color and 
type of fabric. It has a narrow shoulder band. It is the tricker part of 
the gown making bodice just right so it stays in place.The gown that I made 
that got past the SCA authentocrates was of one color and had detached 
sleeves as well as having under and over skirt.

The only sleeve I like from the patten is the big one. The instructions for 
the pattern for the sleeves solved a number of problems for me and was worth 
the money I spent on the pattern. The big sleeve looks great lined and 
turned back to the elbow and pined either to so the lining and the under 
sleeve. I have used the sleeve from Mantua Maker SpanishLoose Gown and from 
the Mantua Maker Round gown

In the picture the skirt it is actual two layers an underskirt and an 
overskirt, that trim going up the seam makes it looks like the cheat with 
the false. The skirt is a two piece pattern and it is easy to adapt it to 
the cheat with false under panel.

Wilhelmina

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jun 14 22:31:57 2004
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From: "Molly Boone" <Rampant_Peacock@comcast.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: corded farthingales (wasRe: [h-cost] Corset)
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I actually just rebuilt a new one from Margo's pattern I've used the steel
hoop wire and my Elizabethan noble collapsed the old one.  After the first
collapse I doubled the hoop wire and it collapsed again. The hoop wire is
not very forgiving.  My new hoop is stiffened with PVC tubing.  So far it is
showing a lot more forgiveness in travel and poundage it can hold.

Molly
who firmly believes the Spanish farthingale should be round not oval and
can't stand the wheel farthingales

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Chris Laning
Sent: Friday, June 11, 2004 11:40 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: corded farthingales (wasRe: [h-cost] Corset)


At 2:06 PM -0400 6/11/04, Janet Renzetti wrote:
>I know this is SOOOO not period, but a quick way to make a
>farthingale hoope is steel binding.  A friend of mine made his wife
>one that way, and so I had one done for me.  He works in a warehouse
>and so the pallets are wrapped sometimes in 1" wide binding. The
>great thing is tha I can drive while wearing it because it is
>posable.  One day I might do a proper one and get full research
>going for it, but it is a make do thing and since I don't wear it
>that often, too hard to chase kids, when I don't have a servant, I
>only wear it for special occasions.

That's what mine uses -- in my case, 1-inch steel strapping I picked
up for free at a lumber yard. It works splendidly and is nice and
flexible -- I can walk through a room of folding chairs without
knocking any of them over :)

Only a few disadvantages -- (1) it does tend to wear through any
fabric casing you put it in eventually, (2) you have to remove it to
wash the farthingale, and (3) it's kind of on the heavy side compared
to some other things I've seen used. But my metal hoops are now on
their second cloth farthingale and still going strong after almost
ten years.
--
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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Subject: [h-cost] Fabric sale with many participating stores
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http://www.fabshophop.com/BlowOutSale.asp

Sale only lasts till Tuesday (tomorrow).  Looks like mostly the types of 
fabrics quilters use.  But reenactors use some of them too, so the link 
might be useful.

Fran
Lavolta Press
Two New Books of 1870s and 1880s Patterns!
http://www.lavoltapress.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] international wages for textile workers
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I don't much mind that people in other countries don't get paid *just*
like US workers, if they are paid proportionally.

Cost of living can vary wildy. A wage that you can barely get by on in
Manhattan is great in the Midwest.

Rather than just telling me what the wage would be in US$, I wish they
would say what it would buy or how it compares to the average in the
country.

I once asked that question of someone going on about how little workers
were paid somewhere (this was many years ago-can't remember all the
details anymore), but when pressed for the average yearly income in that
country ..... it was a good bit less than those *underpaid* workers were
getting.

So while a few dollars might not buy much in the US, it might be alot in
another country.

Onaree

<costume content: Thinking about knitting some Elizabethan stockings --
when I can finds time!!>

Lisa Sinervo wrote:
> 
>snip> 
> Could be done, might still do it, but it bothers me greatly.  Someone in India should get paid as much as I would pay any US worker (or as much as I charge myself for my services).  I'd like to change the whole world economy so everyone had a meal, a home, a safe place to live.  What to do, what do???  I don't hate anyone, but I certaily get quite disillusioned.
> 
> Lisa Sinervo
> www.thrednedlestrete.com
> 


-- 
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http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Irish_Crochet_Lovers/
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: RE: corded farthingales (wasRe: [h-cost] Corset)
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At 07:29 PM 6/14/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>I actually just rebuilt a new one from Margo's pattern I've used the steel
>hoop wire and my Elizabethan noble collapsed the old one.  After the first
>collapse I doubled the hoop wire and it collapsed again. The hoop wire is
>not very forgiving.  My new hoop is stiffened with PVC tubing.  So far it is
>showing a lot more forgiveness in travel and poundage it can hold.
>
>Molly
>who firmly believes the Spanish farthingale should be round not oval and
>can't stand the wheel farthingales


Hi Molly

I think it depends on the hoop wire used and the weight of the skirts on 
top of it. Also depends on how many wires are used.

I saw a demo last year at Costume College on steel by Linda Sparks of 
Farthingales, and she uses the thicker spring steel. From her website: 
"50-8406-14 white 14mm(1/2"), 14mm wide X .55mm thick, this is our 
strongest hoop steel which is capable of supporting large hoops and heavy 
fabrics without collapsing." She suggests using it for the bottom two rows 
at least. And with her tips and connectors, she was able to take a civil 
war petticoat with multiple hoops, and pulled out the petticoat and the 
steel from a large ziplock baggie that was packed in her suitcase. The 
steel is plastic coated, and it bends a lot less than the regular thickness 
steel (0.3mm).

Most hoop skirts I have seen and have the wires for such, are the two wire 
thread covered things, and I agree those don't hold up to a full velvet 
Tudor skirt, no matter how many you have in the petticoat/farthingale, or 
how much duct tape you use to keep it together.

Needless to say I am making a new farthingale with the steel.

Kimiko
I agree about the Spanish farthingale, but I may be making a wheel 
farthingale soon.



Kimiko Small
Owner ~ DreamTime Studios
http://www.dreamtime-studios.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell
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Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2004 09:30:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: Janet Renzetti <celtic_dragonrider@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] international wages for textile workers
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I agree.  I have see this in Russia when I was there.  Significant difference in the wages, but also in the cost of livin compared to North America.
Janet

Ms Berard <msberard@earthlink.net> wrote:
I don't much mind that people in other countries don't get paid *just*
like US workers, if they are paid proportionally.

Cost of living can vary wildy. A wage that you can barely get by on in
Manhattan is great in the Midwest.

Rather than just telling me what the wage would be in US$, I wish they
would say what it would buy or how it compares to the average in the
country.

I once asked that question of someone going on about how little workers
were paid somewhere (this was many years ago-can't remember all the
details anymore), but when pressed for the average yearly income in that
country ..... it was a good bit less than those *underpaid* workers were
getting.

So while a few dollars might not buy much in the US, it might be alot in
another country.

Onaree

when I can finds time!!>

Lisa Sinervo wrote:
> 
>snip> 
> Could be done, might still do it, but it bothers me greatly. Someone in India should get paid as much as I would pay any US worker (or as much as I charge myself for my services). I'd like to change the whole world economy so everyone had a meal, a home, a safe place to live. What to do, what do??? I don't hate anyone, but I certaily get quite disillusioned.
> 
> Lisa Sinervo
> www.thrednedlestrete.com
> 


-- 
Proud list mom of Irish Crochet Lovers
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Irish_Crochet_Lovers/
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help please with Tudor!
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>From: Janet Renzetti <celtic_dragonrider@yahoo.ca>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help please with Tudor!
>Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 22:28:02 -0400 (EDT)
>
>SOunds as though you have aplan in mind and know how to adapt them.
>
>I have drafted and eproduced this dress 
>http://www.costumes.org/history/greatwomen/greatwomenlauedenoyes.jpg
>
>Hopefully it works the way it should....but I made it for my sister 11yo 
>and almost finished mine and my dughter's.  I hadn't seen a commercial 
>pattern for it, but it turned out great.  I need to take pics of my sister 
>to show how well  it cam out.  It was absolutely beautiful.
>
>Janet
>
I bet it was.

Wilhelmina

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] KWAS event, Orlando
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Will anyone from the list be at the SCA's Known World Arts & Sciences
Symposium in Orlando, Florida, the weekend after next (June 25-27)?

I'm going to be the guest speaker there; I'll be giving a whopping seven
lectures in two days.

I don't know a soul in that area that I'm aware of, which leaves me at
loose ends (for the few minutes in which I'm not actually lecturing,
preparing to lecture, or recovering from lecturing). I would love to know
if there will be any listmates present.

Event website is here:
http://home.earthlink.net/~kwas04/index.html

--Robin

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I haven't gotten any email from h-costume or h-needlework since yesterday.
Can this be possible?

LynnD

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jun 16 18:32:14 2004
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Not just you, I was starting to wonder myself where everyone was...

Sheridan


----- Original Message -----
From: "Lynn Downward"

> I haven't gotten any email from h-costume or h-needlework since yesterday.
> Can this be possible?
>
> LynnD


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jun 16 18:35:09 2004
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I dunno!  I haven't gotten any, either...maybe everyone is busy going places
wearing the outfits they made over the fall, winter and spring?

Emer \ Gia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lynn Downward" <LDownward@chori.org>
To: "h costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2004 3:21 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Is it just me?


> I haven't gotten any email from h-costume or h-needlework since yesterday.
> Can this be possible?
>
> LynnD
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jun 16 18:41:21 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] KWAS event, Orlando
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> lecturing). I would love to know
> if there will be any listmates present.

I live in the area but don't do much SCA stuff these days. I hope you have a
great time.

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jun 16 18:46:21 2004
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> lecturing). I would love to know
> if there will be any listmates present.

I live in the area but don't do much SCA stuff these days. I hope you have a
great time.

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jun 16 19:52:02 2004
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I was wondering as well, mind you I always seem to get email seriously out of order - so I haven't seen Lynn's yet...anyway, I went from 50 or 60 messages down to 3.  Maybe most of these lucky people are on holiday?

Cheers,
Danielle

--------- Original Message ---------
>Not just you, I was starting to wonder myself where everyone was...
>
>Sheridan
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Lynn Downward"
>
>> I haven't gotten any email from h-costume or h-needlework since yesterday.
>> Can this be possible?
>>
>> LynnD


Need a new email address that people can remember
Check out the new EudoraMail at
http://www.eudoramail.com
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jun 16 20:19:45 2004
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From: Janet Renzetti <celtic_dragonrider@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is it just me?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I haven't received anything either.  I just figured either no one has anything to say for a change or the message system was down.
 
Janet

Gia <gia_gavino@comcast.net> wrote:
I dunno! I haven't gotten any, either...maybe everyone is busy going places
wearing the outfits they made over the fall, winter and spring?

Emer \ Gia
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lynn Downward" 
To: "h costume" 
Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2004 3:21 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Is it just me?


> I haven't gotten any email from h-costume or h-needlework since yesterday.
> Can this be possible?
>
> LynnD
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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On Wed, 16 Jun 2004, Lynn Downward wrote:

> I haven't gotten any email from h-costume or h-needlework since
> yesterday. Can this be possible?

The only post I've seen, till this thread, is one I made (on my upcoming
visit to Orlando, not a particularly exciting post).

--Robin

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Gia wrote:

> I dunno!  I haven't gotten any, either...maybe everyone is busy going places
> wearing the outfits they made over the fall, winter and spring?
> 

Going places, sewing stuff. I just finished putting together outfits to 
wear at a local renaissance festival. I don't make new costumes every 
year, but there are usually adjustments to be made to whatever we decide 
to wear, and this year I did make my husband a new shirt. In eight weeks 
we're doing a mid-victorian event with friends and since this is a new 
period for us, it's taking a lot more preparation. Oh, and I finished a 
dress for a customer who will be vending at a ren-fest in Virginia this 
summer. Not my busiest summer, but busy enough.



Dawn




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On Wednesday 16 June 2004 06:21 pm, Lynn Downward wrote:
> I haven't gotten any email from h-costume or h-needlework since yesterday.
> Can this be possible?

Yup.  I guess people are on vacation or something.



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A man cannot be too careful in the choice of his enemies." 
-Oscar Wilde
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I have a big gap between 4:30 am and 5:20 pm....
Maybe Server probs?

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Catherine Olanich Raymond
Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2004 9:07 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is it just me?

On Wednesday 16 June 2004 06:21 pm, Lynn Downward wrote:
> I haven't gotten any email from h-costume or h-needlework since
yesterday.
> Can this be possible?

Yup.  I guess people are on vacation or something.



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A man cannot be too careful in the choice of his enemies." 
-Oscar Wilde
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Not sure if anyone has posted this yet, but I just saw a link to this on
another costumer's site -- Butterick has come out with an interesting
looking corset pattern for 18th c. and 19th c. corsets!  I'm really
impressed by the boning layouts on the 18th c. views, although I'm only
looking at the images on their website.

 http://tinyurl.com/yu5ob

- Kendra
http://demode.tweedlebop.com/

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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2004 11:56:21 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Butterick corset pattern
From: Lynn Downward <LDownward@chori.org>
To: h costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Thank you, Kendra, for reminding me that there were a few new patterns I
wanted to all you all about. I saw these in a JoAnns blitz on their 50% off
the notions wall on Friday. Simplicity has four new (to me) men's patterns
that look 1840s to me but they're calling them civil War. I don't know men's
styles, so they could be right. Has anyone seen these patterns and where do
they fit historically and accurately? They look good to me but as I said, I
don't really know men's clothing. There's a longjohns pattern, two patterns
for pants and shirts, one with a vest and cap.

Here's the link - 

http://www.simplicity.com/index.cfm?cat=4&type=19&sec=0&id=57


They are the first four men's outfits on the page.

LynnD



On 6/17/04 11:35 AM, "Kendra Van Cleave" <kendra@tweedlebop.com> wrote:

> Not sure if anyone has posted this yet, but I just saw a link to this on
> another costumer's site -- Butterick has come out with an interesting
> looking corset pattern for 18th c. and 19th c. corsets!  I'm really
> impressed by the boning layouts on the 18th c. views, although I'm only
> looking at the images on their website.
> 
> http://tinyurl.com/yu5ob
> 
> - Kendra
> http://demode.tweedlebop.com/
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity (was : Butterick corset pattern
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Lynn Downward wrote:

>  Has anyone seen these patterns and where do
> they fit historically and accurately? 
> 
> Here's the link - 
> 
> http://www.simplicity.com/index.cfm?cat=4&type=19&sec=0&id=57
> 
> 
> They are the first four men's outfits on the page.

Lynn,

If I recall correctly they were drafted by listmember Martha Kelly, who 
knows her stuff. If you check around on the Simplicity site you will 
find her documentation for each of the articles of clothing. I posted a 
link recently, it should be in the list archives. They are very good 
reproductions for the modern seamstress.

I bought all 4 envelopes and am in the process of making the vest from 
5037. I'm keeping a costume diary, so anyone who is interested can check 
with me later to see how it went. At the moment I have it about half cut 
out, didn't have enough lining fabric on hand so I need to get more this 
weekend.



Dawn



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I picked up the Simplicity men's civil war shirts, made a couple of collar adjustments and now they work well for 16th century too.  

Lisa Sinervo

 
             
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Subject: [h-cost] Victorian/Edwardian boots
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Been reading an LJ costuming community, and someone got some nice boots and 
gave this url for the makers. http://www.lorians.com/  . They are based in 
Texas, USA.

Wanted to share for those interested in such boots and shoes. I know I have 
been wanting a good pair that will last.

Kimiko
Kimiko Small
Costumer, Fiber Artist, Web Designer, Wife and Mother
DreamTime Studios: http://www.dreamtime-studios.com
LiveJournal: http://www.livejournal.com/~sstormwatch/
Personal site: http://www.kimiko1.com

"The future belongs to those who believe
      in the beauty of their dreams." - Eleanor Roosevelt

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity (was : Butterick corset pattern
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In a message dated 6/17/2004 3:27:46 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
dawn@reddawn.net writes:

> If I recall correctly they were drafted by listmember Martha Kelly, who 
> knows her stuff. If you check around on the Simplicity site you will 
> find her documentation for each of the articles of clothing. 

They are pretty good.

I cut my early 19th century shirts with no shoulder seam, but that doesn't 
mean the pattern sucks because it has one. And the only things I do differently 
with waistcoats is a CB seam, no front darts, French shoulder seams, smaller 
than modern armseyes and a lace instead of a buckle in the back. All that can 
easily be modified on these patterns. [A double breasted version of the 
waistcoat would be good too]
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian/Edwardian boots
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Which reminds me, Capezio has Victorian style boots from time to time. 

Frances Grimble
Lavolta  Press
Two new books of 1870s and 1880s patterns!
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Kimiko Small wrote:

> Been reading an LJ costuming community, and someone got some nice 
> boots and gave this url for the makers. http://www.lorians.com/  . 
> They are based in Texas, USA.
>
> Wanted to share for those interested in such boots and shoes. I know I 
> have been wanting a good pair that will last.
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity (was : Butterick corset pattern
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...do not forget to check out the new fantasey and Halloween costume. They 
are not period but the are they look good.  
http://www.simplicity.com/index.cfm?page=wnsimp.cfm

Wilhelmina

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here is the link to her documentation

http://www.simplicity.com/index.cfm?page=section/civilWar/index.html



>Lynn Downward wrote:
>
>>  Has anyone seen these patterns and where do
>>they fit historically and accurately?
>>
>>Here's the link -
>>
>>http://www.simplicity.com/index.cfm?cat=4&type=19&sec=0&id=57
>>
>>
>>They are the first four men's outfits on the page.
>
>Lynn,
>
>If I recall correctly they were drafted by listmember Martha Kelly, who 
>knows her stuff. If you check around on the Simplicity site you will find 
>her documentation for each of the articles of clothing. I posted a link 
>recently, it should be in the list archives. They are very good 
>reproductions for the modern seamstress.
>
>I bought all 4 envelopes and am in the process of making the vest from 
>5037. I'm keeping a costume diary, so anyone who is interested can check 
>with me later to see how it went. At the moment I have it about half cut 
>out, didn't have enough lining fabric on hand so I need to get more this 
>weekend.
>
>
>
>Dawn
>
>
here is the link to her documentation

http://www.simplicity.com/index.cfm?page=section/civilWar/index.html

Wilhelmina

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian/Edwardian boots
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On Thursday 17 June 2004 06:18 pm, Lavolta Press wrote:
> Which reminds me, Capezio has Victorian style boots from time to time.

I just looked at the Lorians site.  They sell the Capezio boots, but at the 
moment they're out of stock and will be until August.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A man cannot be too careful in the choice of his enemies." 
-Oscar Wilde
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Subject: [h-cost] Jippieee Robe finished (for now)
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Finally It looks like a wearable dress.
Tomorrow I will go to a fantasy fair and wera this dress.
They say it ill going to rain :-( .
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Robealafrancaise/Robe.html

Now a have a few ours left to make a costume for my husband.
A Captain Jack Sparrow costume form Pirates of the Caribbean...
Well something that hopefully will look a little like Captain Jack....
It will probably the most teribble costume I have ever made if I see how 
much time I have left.

Greetings,
        Deredere


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Subject: [h-cost] re: black chemises-cranachpainting? 
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<<This is not the one I was referencing.  I don't have my book here
but it was one of Cranach's generic Portraits of a Young Woman.  Will look
to see if there's a more specific reference or citation for the painting
when I get home.  It's in the Cranach book by Max Friedlander and Jakob
Rosenberg. >>

Sorry if I'm leaping in here late, I've just come back online:) And found
this via the search engine.

If it is this one (I kept being referred to B&N when trying to view the
images on the website scanned by the originator of the post):
http://frazzledfrau.glittersweet.com/1525cranyounglady.htm

 I know someone who saw the real painting and she said it was red. Which is
not that odd as Cranach painted another woman (not idealised, so probably a
real woman)
Well I did specifically mention the panel not her gown;) "Ah - I know this
one and have a colour version of it (red). " is what she actually said;)

And a red blousy fabric over a blousy shift is not unheard of, though I'm
specifically thinking of a bust of Charles...
http://www.brugge.be/Musea/m67.htm

Heh, doing a search for that brought me photos of Luther, the movie...
hrmmmm.

http://frazzledfrau.glittersweet.com/1522womancran.htm

http://frazzledfrau.glittersweet.com/1549annadanmark.htm and in colour:

does show black at her "plastron".

Different colours are not that uncommon, gold is seen quite often, and in
Cologne red seems to be quite a fashionable colour in Bruyn portraits.
Different style, but still witht he brustfleck and "plastron."

Not the quote marks? I'm convinced this is the One True Way, there are
examples of sleeveless dresses which are reminsicent of the kirtles worn in
the 15thC in the Lowlands. But a kirtle may not be appropriate in every
circumstance. I do believe these women adapted to their actual needs as well
as fashion;)

michaela
http://glittersweet.com


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From: Janet Renzetti <celtic_dragonrider@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jippieee Robe finished (for now)
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Wow! that came out beautifully.  I am sure you will the envy of the fair.  Good Luck.  
 
Janet

Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl> wrote:
Finally It looks like a wearable dress.
Tomorrow I will go to a fantasy fair and wera this dress.
They say it ill going to rain :-( .
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Robealafrancaise/Robe.html

Now a have a few ours left to make a costume for my husband.
A Captain Jack Sparrow costume form Pirates of the Caribbean...
Well something that hopefully will look a little like Captain Jack....
It will probably the most teribble costume I have ever made if I see how 
much time I have left.

Greetings,
Deredere


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Thanks!
I am going to be a judge at the costume competition :-) ;-) :-P

Deredere

Janet Renzetti wrote:

>Wow! that came out beautifully.  I am sure you will the envy of the fair.  Good Luck.  
> 
>Janet
>
>Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl> wrote:
>Finally It looks like a wearable dress.
>Tomorrow I will go to a fantasy fair and wera this dress.
>They say it ill going to rain :-( .
>http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Robealafrancaise/Robe.html
>
>Now a have a few ours left to make a costume for my husband.
>A Captain Jack Sparrow costume form Pirates of the Caribbean...
>Well something that hopefully will look a little like Captain Jack....
>It will probably the most teribble costume I have ever made if I see how 
>much time I have left.
>
>Greetings,
>Deredere
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>
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>Post your free ad now! Yahoo! Canada Personals
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>  
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Wow!  It's just *beautiful!  Best of luck on your hubby's costume...and
remember to breathe!

Slán go fóill
Emer

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Deredere Galbraith" <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, June 14, 2004 7:00 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Jippieee Robe finished (for now)


> Finally It looks like a wearable dress.
> Tomorrow I will go to a fantasy fair and wera this dress.
> They say it ill going to rain :-( .
> http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Robealafrancaise/Robe.html
>
> Now a have a few ours left to make a costume for my husband.
> A Captain Jack Sparrow costume form Pirates of the Caribbean...
> Well something that hopefully will look a little like Captain Jack....
> It will probably the most teribble costume I have ever made if I see how
> much time I have left.
>
> Greetings,
>         Deredere
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] What I (Will Do) On My Holidays
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Rightio, since the list is quiet - what is everyone planning to 
start/continue/finish over the summer? Or is anyone going to a 
new/interesting/unknown place in the name of costume?

I'm still wrestling with the silk Spanish farthingale with willow 
hoops, and the toile to go over it, and have got to the *mutter, 
mutter, stupid idea anyway* stage. I wanted to inkleloom some 9th 
century woollen leg bindings, but don't think it will happen. Also a 
mundane silk waistcoat for a friend.
I'm going to the Northampton Boot and Shoe Museum for a whole day of 
research soon- can't wait; and really want to go to Brussels, but 
again, don't think it will happen.

What's everyone else doing?

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> Rightio, since the list is quiet - what is everyone planning to
> start/continue/finish over the summer? Or is anyone going to a
> new/interesting/unknown place in the name of costume?
>
-
Well, right now I'm wrestling with a new corded petticoat (Eliz). I thought
I was being clever by putting a basket caning in the lower-most casing to
give it a bit of oomph, and that looks great by itself or with a lightweight
underskirt, but when I put a heavier overskirt on, it tends to bow in about
knee level and then stick out. :-P I have a feeling I'm going to have to
either cane the whole thing (ugh) or take the cane out of the bottom, which
will screw up the length of all the skirts I made......why is it that
whenever I try to make things better, I only make them worse?!?!?!?!

I hate working with hoopsteel, so I was looking for a substitute that would
be lightweight somewhat washable to boot (just would need to take that one
piece of cane out). Has anyone tried making a farthingale with willow
caning?

Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreicated......I'm going for a
nice, respectable merchant-class look, rather like the Wedding at Bermondsy.

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot
Bristol Renaissance Faire, Guilde of St. Lawrence

My arms are too short to box with God.
                                        ~Johnny Cash

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************

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Subject: [h-cost] 16c chemise neckline bindings
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I'm making some 16th century smocks including one of the type that was under discussion under gathered necklines.  I'm gathering my smock onto an embroidered band, no gathering string.  Does anyone know of any evidence that these neckbindings have been cut on the bias.  My assumption is that they would not due to conserving precious fabric, but I bet the neckline would lie better on a bias cut.

Any thoughts?

Lisa Sinervo 
             
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From: purplkat@optonline.net
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What I (Will Do) On My Holidays
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Northampton ..where????

Katheryne
who REALLY needs to go to a shoe museum to do research ... yeah that's it ... research....

----- Original Message -----
From: Hilary Davidson <hbgd103@soton.ac.uk>

> I'm going to the Northampton Boot and Shoe Museum for a whole day 
> of 
> research soon- can't wait; and really want to go to Brussels, but 
> again, don't think it will happen.
> 
> What's everyone else doing?


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What I (Will Do) On My Holidays
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>
> What's everyone else doing?
>
 Trying to clean enough stuff out of my fabric storage room so it can be
used as a bedroom this summer. A difficult task it seems.  I am considering
selling fabric on ebay, if I can figure out how.  Does fabric sell?

Susan in Bellevue


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What I (Will Do) On My Holidays
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At 02:09 PM 6/18/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>  Trying to clean enough stuff out of my fabric storage room so it can be
>used as a bedroom this summer. A difficult task it seems.  I am considering
>selling fabric on ebay, if I can figure out how.  Does fabric sell?
>
>Susan in Bellevue


I think it depends on the fabric and the initial price. I have bought some 
fabrics from eBay sellers, but my interest varies depending on my needs.

Good luck with it, and let us know your seller name when you do.

Kimiko
(who needs to clear out her old stash as well.)


Kimiko Small
Owner ~ DreamTime Studios
http://www.dreamtime-studios.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

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Susan wrote:

>>What's everyone else doing?
>>
> 
>  Trying to clean enough stuff out of my fabric storage room so it can be
> used as a bedroom this summer. A difficult task it seems.  I am considering
> selling fabric on ebay, if I can figure out how.  Does fabric sell?

 From time to time, but I've never been able to get very much for mine. 
People want a bargain. You might have better luck setting up a table at 
an SCA event where folks can see and touch.



Dawn



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I found that bringing my stash of fabric to my local events has a really
good turn out of folks who want to buy.  I think that is because I chose to
sell my stash at an event where most folks attending pretty much knew I'd
sell period of period-ish materials.  I had a great time talking to folks
and find out what they'd use such and such piece for.

I also sold many of my old italian ren gowns.  I am afraid the supply did
not meet the demand.  But I was so tickled *pink* when I saw so many of my
gowns 'walking' around on site!  It was such a kick!

This summer I'm going to try and start on a new corset and the toile for my
tudor.

Slán go fóill
Emer

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, June 18, 2004 3:04 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What I (Will Do) On My Holidays


> Susan wrote:
>
> >>What's everyone else doing?
> >>
> >
> >  Trying to clean enough stuff out of my fabric storage room so it can be
> > used as a bedroom this summer. A difficult task it seems.  I am
considering
> > selling fabric on ebay, if I can figure out how.  Does fabric sell?
>
>  From time to time, but I've never been able to get very much for mine.
> People want a bargain. You might have better luck setting up a table at
> an SCA event where folks can see and touch.
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What I (Will Do) On My Holidays
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>  Has anyone tried making a farthingale with willow
> caning?
>

Yep, that's what this mine's done with. Cane is much easier to handle, 
straighter, more flexible and regular. Go withit! Have you tried 
stiffening the lower section of the skirt with buckram or something 
similar to avoid the bowing? There is a period picture of a Dutch 
(??)camp follower in a distinctly bell-shaped farthingale, though. 
Don't know if it's online, but it's in R.M. Anderson's Hispanic Costume 
book. The other period alternative is a rope made of bents - fine 
rushes or grasses. Possibly raffia would work, like making braids for 
hats, if it's thick enough. What is your skirt fabric made of?

Katheryne - Was your 'where' for the country, or the location of the 
museum in Northampton :)?
http://www.northampton.gov.uk/museums/collections/boot_and_shoe  for 
all info.

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Need thoughts on an image
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I've been contacted by a literature scholar who would like some input on
an image from a costume standpoint. I've given her my own thoughts, but
I'd like to hear from others as well, particularly as I'm hoping someone
may be able to identify some curious details.

The image is a woodcut done in 1920 by Edmund Dulac, to illustrate a work
by Yeats. It is meant to be a "portrait" of a character named Giraldus or
Gyraldus. It is clearly done in a pseudo-medieval style. The scholar who
contacted me is trying to get a sense of what Dulac, the artist, had in
mind and was trying to evoke in creating a period-looking image -- in
particular, what his sources for the image might have been (for instance,
was he copying some elements from a real period portrait?) or how he
developed his sense of what looked "historic." In particular, she wants to
know what period he's trying to suggest with the image, and what details
in the picture might suggest that period.

There isn't much to go on in the picture, but there are some interesting
details in the costume, one of which I do not recall seeing in any period
source, but which may be out there somewhere -- either in a period source
I don't know about, or in a modern costume reference that presents it as
historic. I'll reserve my own opinions till I've heard from others, as I
don't want to put the responses in any particular direction.

There is a small version of the picture here (ignore the photo; the
illustration is just below):
http://www.art.man.ac.uk/english/student/claire_nally/index.htm

--Robin

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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Need thoughts on an image
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2004 16:17:16 -0700
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Robin, it reminds me of many of the representations of biblical scenes
(especially the three magi-).  I ran across one the other day on
http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/
The search feature is rather cumbersome, but give me a minute and I will
send you an example of what I mean.

Sg

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need thoughts on an image
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>The image is a woodcut done in 1920 by Edmund Dulac, to illustrate a work
>by Yeats. It is meant to be a "portrait" of a character named Giraldus or
>Gyraldus. It is clearly done in a pseudo-medieval style. The scholar who
>contacted me is trying to get a sense of what Dulac, the artist, had in
>mind and was trying to evoke in creating a period-looking image -- in
>particular, what his sources for the image might have been (for instance,
>was he copying some elements from a real period portrait?) or how he
>developed his sense of what looked "historic." In particular, she wants to
>know what period he's trying to suggest with the image, and what details
>in the picture might suggest that period.
>
>There isn't much to go on in the picture, but there are some interesting
>details in the costume, one of which I do not recall seeing in any period
>source, but which may be out there somewhere -- either in a period source
>I don't know about, or in a modern costume reference that presents it as
>historic. I'll reserve my own opinions till I've heard from others, as I
>don't want to put the responses in any particular direction.

The costume is probably supposed to be Turkish, judging from the turban
plus center front garment fastenings.  There's a costume from a similar
period and country in 20,000 Years Of Fashion, IIRC, and also done by a
European but not a woodcut.  Look also in Dover's reprint of Vecellio's
costume book from the late 1500s or early 1600s, where some Turks in their
native costumes are pictured, by an Italian.

The style is very much that of woodcuts in the 1500s.  Dulac has captured
the late-Medieval - early Renaissance woodcut style pretty well, these
being more like linoleum blocks than like etchings, which are typical of
later (think Rembrandt).  The hatching for shading, and the lines
delineating Dulac's face, are very much in this woodcut style.  (Are we
sure Dulac created this one, or did he re-use a period one?)  Look in
Dover's two-volume History of Woodcut or in Dover's Complete Woodcuts of
Albrecht Durer to get a feel for the period style and the level of detail
present in some of the better period examples.  (I can't help thinking
Dulac may have stolen the face, and details, from a period woodcut, because
I get the impression I've seen this guy somewhere before.  He looks like a
shifty-eyed Bad Guy.)

       CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
         www.FunStuft.com

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Of course I can't find the one I was thinking of, but you can see in these
where the suggestion for the hat and jacket may have come from.  There are
lots more to look.  If you need help navigating, let me know.

Sg

http://titan.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/images/7001109.JPG


http://titan.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/images/3000017-02.JPG


http://titan.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/images/7001655.JPG

http://titan.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/images/7001231.JPG

http://www.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/realonline/

http://titan.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/images/7003591.JPG

http://titan.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/images/7006440.JPG

http://titan.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/images/7001304.JPG



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need thoughts on an image
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In a message dated 6/18/04 6:01:18 PM Central Daylight Time, 
robin@shell.nightowl.net writes:
The scholar who
contacted me is trying to get a sense of what Dulac, the artist, had in
mind and was trying to evoke in creating a period-looking image 


Isn't Dulac the kingdom where the bad guy lives in the first Shrek movie??? 
::great big smile::

On a more serious note, the engraving seems to me to be seriously at odds 
with the topics discussed on the site.  It's extremely stylized and details are 
very exaggerated, in a way that was not (to my knowledge) seen in medieval art 
or representations.  The holding of the scroll is definitely medieval or 
renaissance in flavor.  The odd frog-style closures on the vest/jerkin and the cord 
holding on the cloak seem to evoke an earlier time period, but the turban 
style headwear is totally out there from anything I've ever seen relating to 
medieval Europe.

I don't know.  I'm having a hard time fitting that in with a discussion of 
the Irish national identity, but I may just be misunderstanding the entire thing.

-Tiffany
Non vestimentum virum ornat, sed vir vestimentum.
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In a message dated 6/18/04 7:12:15 PM Central Daylight Time, 
Tiffsewsstuff@aol.com writes:
It's extremely stylized and details are 
very exaggerated, in a way that was not (to my knowledge) seen in medieval 
art 
or representations.


In re-reading this, I wanted to clarify - I did not mean to say that medieval 
art was not stylized or exaggerated in different ways.  I meant that within 
the context of the website that it was posted on, discussing the Irish national 
identity, I'm having a hard time fitting this image in.  Again, I may just be 
totally missing the connecting dots.

-Tiffany
Non vestimentum virum ornat, sed vir vestimentum.
*******************************
Reflections*of*Worth
http://stores.ebay.com/Reflections-of-Worth
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Hi folks.

First off - there is a better image at http://www.yeatsvision.com/Gyraldus.html

IMO  the image is devoid of any firm clue that could favor one period over 
another.
Yeats never fully defines Gyraldus in his work,  and other than one mention 
to the book of Gyraldus being printed in 1594 places no date with the 
fictional author.  Yeats even goes on, further in the story, to muddy the 
water of just who this character was.

I think,  if Yeats had any contact with the artist of the image,  that he 
also requested such a medievil-oid generic rendering.   Historically there 
are several Geraldus/Giraldus figures who were authors or translators from 
the 10th - 16th centuries.  He could be representing all of them,  or none 
of them.

But,  as to my opinion of what the image shows...   here are some quick notes.

the detail of the wood block is depicted as crude and heavy.  That would 
place it quite early 1450s perhaps.
And also place it in Germany or related regions.
That physical location could be bolstered by the arguement that the sitter 
wears a fur lined coat -Ala the Hungarian coats of the vonKaunitz find. and 
the depiction of a man in Chinese dress by Rubens in 1617.
http://user.chollian.net/~boonstra/korea/korubens.jpg   Jesuit in Chinese 
Clothes
http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/art/r/rembran/painting/portrai3/old_man.jpg 
Again showing Eastern Influences

There is a horizontal line across the front of the figures chest.
	Could it be an ornament a necklace?
	Could it be functional - holding the two sides of the coat together
	Is it the depiction of the border between the shirt and the doublet (a low 
rise doublet - similar to Germanic styles)
	
Also there is the closure method for the front of the (doublet) which uses 
loops (of fabric or braid or yarn) to fasten to buttons.  The buttons May 
be depicted as knotted.

Overall it gives a sense of Eastern European or Oriental influences.
And of course... a turban or head wrap.  The folds at the side of the head 
wrap make me think turban and folds of cloth arranged,  not a chaperon.  So 
again... later 1450+  with Eastern Europe flavor.

Good,  now I get to read everyone elses replies.
Bridgette

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Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> The costume is probably supposed to be Turkish, judging from the turban
> plus center front garment fastenings.

I'm with you.  He's either actually Turkish/Arabian, such as were often 
portrayed as "the bad situation before Christ showed up" or sometimes 
"The nearly enlightened old Biblical Heroes."

However, the face is very unflattering.  He's an eeeevil Turk.  The eye, 
the pinched nose -- he's shrewd, maybe grasping.  Educated (the scroll) 
but bad.

I also agree with Tiffany's question: is your correspondant 100% certain 
the work is original (not a Turk at all?)

On the European front, the hat could be a version of the rolled-up hood. 
  In fact, those random bits on top are more characteristic of a hood 
than of a traditional turban, which doesn't have any free ends up there, 
as far as I know.

Here's an online collection of medieval woodcut images:
http://www.godecookery.com/clipart/clart.htm

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

Loki, Eris, and Coyote walk into a bar, and the bartender says 'Order, 
please.'
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At 01:58 PM 6/18/2004 -0500, you wrote:

>Well, right now I'm wrestling with a new corded petticoat (Eliz). I thought
>I was being clever by putting a basket caning in the lower-most casing to
>give it a bit of oomph, and that looks great by itself or with a lightweight
>underskirt, but when I put a heavier overskirt on, it tends to bow in about
>knee level and then stick out. :-P I have a feeling I'm going to have to
>either cane the whole thing (ugh) or take the cane out of the bottom, which
>will screw up the length of all the skirts I made......why is it that
>whenever I try to make things better, I only make them worse?!?!?!?!
>
>I hate working with hoopsteel, so I was looking for a substitute that would
>be lightweight somewhat washable to boot (just would need to take that one
>piece of cane out). Has anyone tried making a farthingale with willow
>caning?
>
>Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreicated......I'm going for a
>nice, respectable merchant-class look, rather like the Wedding at Bermondsy.
>
>**********************
>Rebecca Schmitt

Well, as you found out, one hoop at the bottom does not work with heavy 
skirts.  You will probably need hoops from at least your knee down to the 
hem, but one every three or four inches might work out.  The strength of 
the hoop steels (real ones, not the lumber strapping, which is really 
heavy) is worth it.  My farthingale has about six hoops from several inches 
below my backside down to the hem, about 3-4 inches apart, and has held up 
my rather heavy skirts very nicely.  And I can flex my skirts as needed (I 
have actually driven in full gear).  Just get hoop steels that are about 2 
feet longer than the casings and overlap them in the casings.  While mine 
do sometimes try to wander out of their casings, I like having them 
removable so I can occasionally wash the farthingale.

Mistress Blanche Parry, chief Gentlewoman to the Queen [GoSGN]
aka Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net

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I would suggest more of a Eastern Europe influence than Turkish or Persian,
from what I have found in my research over the years, Turkish and Persian
coats do not have collars like the one you see on his overcoat. I would say
that this is more of a European flavoured woodcut. His turban also seems
more of a European hybrid, more hat than head wrap, even allowing for
artistic license. Turbans are usually much smoother. To place a time for it,
I'm definitely no expert, but the 1400's would not seem unreasonable to me,
his overcoat reminds me  of a houppeland, and the hat looks more to me like
one of those later period stylized liripipes.

Just my two uneducated bits. :-)

Sheridan


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need thoughts on an image
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Shane & Sheridan" <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 19, 2004 12:01 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need thoughts on an image


> I would suggest more of a Eastern Europe influence than Turkish or
Persian,
> from what I have found in my research over the years, Turkish and Persian
> coats do not have collars like the one you see on his overcoat. I would
say
> that this is more of a European flavoured woodcut. His turban also seems
> more of a European hybrid, more hat than head wrap, even allowing for
> artistic license. Turbans are usually much smoother. To place a time for
it,
> I'm definitely no expert, but the 1400's would not seem unreasonable to
me,
> his overcoat reminds me  of a houppeland, and the hat looks more to me
like
> one of those later period stylized liripipes.
>
> Just my two uneducated bits. :-)
>
> Sheridan
>
Also, this thought just occurred to me, at the time this wood cut was done
(1920's ?) Orientalism in art was still very popular as was Art Nouveau
which favored all things 'Medieval' which from what I have seen tends
towards the high middle ages 13-1400's. Very much likely its just a blend of
everything that was popular and 'ancient'.

Sheridan


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What I (Will Do) On My Holidays
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> > What's everyone else doing?

Erm.. rather too much.. but ok...:

Black 1876 ensemble, pleated underskirt, draped overskirt, fitted basque and
bolero over the top:
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/historical/bella.htm
Three guesses as to the main inspiration without reading my text (which no
one does anyway;) )

Orange and turquoise kampfrau dress:
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/kampfrau.htm
Cat not included.. well he does alright on a leash, but not in crowds.

Black schaube:
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/schaube.htm
Using the Verney surcoat as a basis for cut as it was very similar to what I
thought I could cut from minimal fabric.

Not started but preparing for:
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/valois.htm
I've just tested some sleeve patterns, not terribly happy with how they are
working, but it probably has a lot to do with how the fabric is too light, I
think Elizabeth's are weighted. I think I may wind up using other portraits
for the shape. They may be the same after all.

Eowyn's Funeral gown from LotR but cut in a way that I'll have a gollar and
a gown I can alter to be either a late 15thC gown or mid sixteenth century
gown. As well as another skirt for under various garments.

Headdress for my cleves gown, using portraits by Bathyl Bruyn to figure out
just what elements to use.

Pink 1560s gown:
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/threegowns.jpg
I made the other two, so this one is about due to be made.

Oh and my bridesmaid dress at some stage....

As well as few more pages for my frazzled frau pages (based on work I have
been doing on my garb now)

michaela
http://costumes.glittersweet.com


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need thoughts on an image
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Here goes.  My first quick impression was that it reminded me of the famous
portrait of Vlad "the Impaler" Tepes.  On second glance, it looked Turkish-
the turban, of course, and the closing of the under-robe.  There are also
similar clothes from eastern Europe in the 16th c., ie Hungary; but of
course, no turban.  The whole outfit also reminded me of that Orientalist
at-home wear adopted by English gentlemen in the 18th c.  The top coat,
however, looks very Tudor- open in the front with the broad spread collar.
Too bad that's all the artist showed.
Now the pose is something else.  It's a classic portrait pose from Italy and
northern Europe from the very late 14th c. up to the early 16th c.  Learned
men are almost always shown holding a rolled or folded document or a book.
Nothing about it is surprising for Dulac; a very large part of his work is
in an Orientalist vein.  But his facial expression still reminds me of Vlad.
                -Helen/Aidan


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Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2004 23:01:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What I (Will Do) On My Holidays
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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>
> What's everyone else doing?
>

I am currently trying to finish a version of this dress:

http://www.nga.gov/cgi-bin/pimage?175+0+0

I have loved this dress for years and have been wanting to make it.  Now I
have the perfect color red silk fabric.  I don't normally make an
identical reproduction of a dress but it just seemed right for this one.

One cool thing that I didn't realize about the dress until I started to
study it was that there is piping around the neckline and the sleeve caps.
 That was something I hadn't done before but it is coming out okay.

Next I promised my boyfriend that I would make him a waffenrock out of a
really lovely black & gold brocade that we found a couple of years ago.

And maybe if I am lucky, I can sneak in a new outfit for Costume College. 
Maybe an early 1800's to go with the great hat I bought last year....

Diana Habra
www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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I had originally planned to not comment as I do not consider myself an
expert on this but heres my 2 cents.
The hat looks like a liripipe and for some reason I keep thinking Russian or
Slav, late 1400s, early 1500s.

Arian
(going back to the alcove)



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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What I (Will Do) On My Holidays
Date: Sat, 19 Jun 2004 12:43:38 -0400
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On Friday 18 June 2004 02:31 pm, Hilary Davidson wrote:
[snip]

> What's everyone else doing?

Ah, that evil question. :-)

Well, since I don't get a "summer vacation" per se (I'm splitting my remaining 
vacation time between early Sept. and early Oct for personal reasons) there 
*are* costuming projects I have on tap--once my husband decides if he is, in 
fact, going to buy me a new sewing machine:

A blue wool panova (early Russian overskirt-like garment)

A simple linen shift with a keyhole neckline, to wear with the panova or as an 
undertunic;

A green moire ball gown bodice, circa 1885, to match a bustle skirt and 
overskirt I made recently.

Those are the short term projects right now.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A man cannot be too careful in the choice of his enemies." 
-Oscar Wilde
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Look what I found under a search of hair net.   I've been looking for a pattern for a woven snood rather than crochet or sewed.

Brin Kendall

 http://www.forest.gen.nz/Medieval/articles/hairnets/hairnets2.pdf
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I don't get a "holiday" as such, but next weekend there is to be a Pas D'armes event up here in Winnipeg (Castel Rouge for the SCA-ers) that my husband is autocrating.

So between helping him, I've been making new garb for all of us. My four year-old has a new red velvet cotehardie, shirt, brais and hosen and dad made him a helmet. My husband and I also have matching red cotehardies (finished last night), underthings, and I'm just working on his hosen right now. First time I've made hosen, not too bad. I also made him a new gambeson and "neck thingy" (I'm blanking on what it's called)
I also made myself a spiffy new hat based on an Italian painting c.1340. It's blue, gold, green and pink velvet. I'm carrying a copy of the painting with me to prove I didn't make it up. I have to make a wimple and veil yet, I found the most exquisite silk gauze at dharmatrading.com. Thank you to whoever told me about them.

Wendy
www.hecate.ca/emma/

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------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Sat, 19 Jun 2004 16:25:38 +1200
From: "michaela" 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What I (Will Do) On My Holidays
To: "Historical Costume" 
Message-ID: <004801c455b5$7ab57390$60a176cb@michaela>
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> > What's everyone else doing?

Erm.. rather too much.. but ok...:

<snip>

Black schaube:
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/schaube.htm
Using the Verney surcoat as a basis for cut as it was very similar to what I
thought I could cut from minimal fabric.

 

<snip for brevity>

What exactly is a schaube? I've never heard the word before. The pictures look like a loose gown, or academic robe, but it's hard to see detail.

All of these look wonderful, btw!! However do you find the time??

Allison T.


		
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Schaube?
Date: Sat, 19 Jun 2004 18:02:28 -0700
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I first met up with the word Schaube when looking at German Costume books.
Given the spelling of sch... I suspect it probably had its Genesis there,
and was taken up as a very warm and dignified outer garment by the upper
classes.  It certainly does have a lot of surface area perfect for
displaying elegant brocades or wools and spiff fur linings!

Regina
> Black schaube:
> http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/schaube.htm
> Using the Verney surcoat as a basis for cut as it was very
> similar to what I
> thought I could cut from minimal fabric.
>
>
>
> <snip for brevity>
>
> What exactly is a schaube? I've never heard the word before. The
> pictures look like a loose gown, or academic robe, but it's hard
> to see detail.
>
> All of these look wonderful, btw!! However do you find the time??
>
> Allison T.
>
>
>


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In a message dated 6/19/2004 8:56:38 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
wandap@hevanet.com writes:

> What exactly is a schaube?

It's a usually short loose over gown of the early Renaissance. Henry VIII 
wears one a lot. It often is lined or has a collar of fur and elaborate paned and 
decorated pouffy sleeves. It will sometimes match the doublet under it.
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Hi Robin,

Here is one example of what I mean, I can't seem to find the one I was thinking of...
http://www.donlinke.com/images/Vlad/Vlad_woodcut-x.jpg

Oh, and after a glance at what Claire actually had to say, the occult connection with Vlad Dracul make a reasonable amount of sense too.

Cheers,
Danielle



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Or, there is the long forgotten H-Costume Swap & Sell in Yahoo Groups.  It would be nice to resurrect that poor thing.

Cheers,
Danielle

--------- Original Message ---------
>> What's everyone else doing?
>>
> Trying to clean enough stuff out of my fabric storage room so it can be
>used as a bedroom this summer. A difficult task it seems.  I am considering
>selling fabric on ebay, if I can figure out how.  Does fabric sell?
>
>Susan in Bellevue
>
>
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> Black schaube:
> http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/schaube.htm
> Using the Verney surcoat as a basis for cut as it was very similar to what
I
> thought I could cut from minimal fabric.

> What exactly is a schaube? I've never heard the word before. The pictures
look like a loose gown, or academic robe, but it's hard to see detail.

Pretty much that's what it is;) Schaube oin this context is a catchall
phrase for the loose surcoat worn at the start of the 16thC and had it's
origins int he 15thC. I think in Germany it was still called that, as
someone who is working on her late 15thC German wardrobe is making one as
well.

There are a variety of styles, sleeved, non sleeved, lined unlined.. (the
unlined seem to be earlier. If they are lined it's not in fur anyway;) )

And yes, they are the decentdant of academic dress. But scholars robes inthe
16thC seem to have gone by a different name. In this instance I suspect we
can trust Kohler as he was talking baout clothing history of his own area;)

Not all were upper class. In the Ausberg panels there are women in the
market place wearing Schaubes and they are more likely to be middle class;)
That is another project;) Getting all the images I have up on Frazzled Frau
as not many people know of this outerwear for women.
There are some coincidentally up already:
http://frazzledfrau.glittersweet.com/1512cranlucre.htm

http://frazzledfrau.glittersweet.com/1535cranlucretia.htm

http://www.dhm.de/ausstellungen/kurzweil/dez6.htm
"Augsburger Bürgerin mit heller pelzverbrämter Schaube"
http://www.dhm.de/ausstellungen/kurzweil/feb2.htm
Women in the top image bottom right over it. One in sleeveless one in
sleeved. One in a cloak like wrap (fastens at neck and no arm holes/sleeves.
http://www.dhm.de/ausstellungen/kurzweil/feb6.htm
The cloak type garment and another who is hard to see, but it looks open at
the upper chest so might be a schaube.

http://frazzledfrau.glittersweet.com/1551krellanna.htm
This may be a development into a later surcoat style, see the even revers
all the way down? No collar.

http://mellott_fleming.tripod.com/schaub-name.html

http://myra.hem.nu/costume/DressDairies/Schaube/Schaube_Documentation.htm
Myra's documentation for the early schaube

It's a very wonderfully warm and snuggly garment, it really is. I wear mine
most of the time now;) It doesn't get as many looks as my International
Warning Orange coat anyway;)

> All of these look wonderful, btw!! However do you find the time??

Honestly? I don't know I shouldn't be do any of this actually. Not if I want
to preserve my wrists for the future, but well... life changes so rapidly,
it already has so I'm going to do what I can when I can;)

Luckily having got some very simple pattern shapes sorted it means I can rip
though my clothing rather rapidly now. Excpet I do need big rest breaks
between;)

I just updated my Valois diary actually;)
I've got my belt base done, and all the text fromt he last three months
uploaded.

michaela
http://costumes.glittersweet.com


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Subject: [h-cost] Patton Tank Corps Uniform
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Hello, everyone.

I'm planning on making a reproduction of the tank corps uniform designed by 
General Patton when he was commander of the Tank Corps. It is commonly 
called the Green Hornet uniform. I'm having a great deal of difficulty 
finding information and photographs of the uniform. I have contacted the 
Patton museum at Fort Knox and have received a digital photo of the uniform 
in its display case. However it is quite faded. And of course I need 
additional information including fabrics, original colors, linings and all 
the usual details. So far web searches have turned up little and the books 
on Patton I have, have little more than a mention of the uniform's existence.

I would appreciate any information or pointers anyone may have to this 
uniform.

Thanks

Pierre


"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What I (Will Do) On My Holidays
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On Sun, 20 Jun 2004, Danielle Nunn-Weinberg wrote:

> Or, there is the long forgotten H-Costume Swap & Sell in Yahoo Groups.  
> It would be nice to resurrect that poor thing.

Actually, it's not on Yahoo, but on CommunityZero, and I think that's one
reason it didn't catch on; it required people to learn yet another
interface. I sold some fabric there ages ago, when it first started up.
I've just tried my bookmarked link and got a group-not-found note, so
perhaps it was closed for lack of activity.

Yahoogroups would be easier, particularly since it sends out emails (as a
list) and you don't have to go to a website to hunt up announcements, but
it also has a place where people can post pictures, which is helpful when
you want to show off your fabric.

Perhaps the easiest thing would be for those of us interested in buying
and selling to go sign up at the already existing garb4sale group at
Yahoo. I've been on it for some time. There are 353 members, so your
notices go out to a large number. However, it's very low-traffic, and the
only posts are announcements of costuming stuff for sale. Some people just
post notices that they have ebay auctions up; others offer the items
directly for sale or trade.

To sign up, go here:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/garb4sale/

Reading the description there, I see this is technically an SCA-spinoff
group and therefore limited to medieval/Renaissance, but fabric is fabric,
and I can't imagine them tossing out anyone who wants to sell/buy, unless
you try to sell finished costumes from a post-Renaissance period. If
enough people want to do that, we should set up an hcost supplemental
group for sale/trade of fabric, books, clothes, etc.

--Robin
who needs to do another clearance of the fabric stash

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16c chemise neckline bindings
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Lisa Sinervo" <Lisa-list@thrednedlestrete.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 19, 2004 5:57 AM
Subject: [h-cost] 16c chemise neckline bindings


> I'm making some 16th century smocks including one of the type that was
under discussion under gathered necklines.  I'm gathering my smock onto an
embroidered band, no gathering string.  Does anyone know of any evidence
that these neckbindings have been cut on the bias.  My assumption is that
they would not due to conserving precious fabric, but I bet the neckline
would lie better on a bias cut.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Lisa Sinervo

Actually I was discussing this topic with somebody who does German about a
month ago, she says it works really well if you actually cut your binding in
the shape you want the finished neckline to be (which to remain concealed
beneath a square neckline means 4 strips of fabric with mitred corners) and
cutting it on the straight is probably more period not only because it uses
more fabric but because you don't want it to stretch around corners, you
want it to stay straight to make a nice square so it sits neatly under a
square neckline. Unfortunately I can't speak from experience because I took
the shortcut of using a drawstring when I made my gathered chemise.
Elizabeth
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
Elizabeth Beaumont              Elizabeth Walpole
Politarchopolis, Lochac     Canberra Australia
             ewalpole@austar.net.au

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What I (Will Do) On My Holidays
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<snip> What's everyone else doing?

Well even though it's a winter break I still get nearly a month off so I've
planned blackworked cuffs for my Tudor (they will be removable so I can
still throw the chemise in the washing machine without damaging my
embroidery)
fitting a 19th century corset, then refitting an 1840s ballgown as it was my
year 12 formal, (AKA Prom) dress and the only underpinnings I wore was a
strapless bra, so now that I have somewhere to wear 19th century stuff I
decided I'd pull it out of the wardrobe and take it in (as I've lost weight
and I'm wearing a corset).
Elizabeth
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
Elizabeth Beaumont              Elizabeth Walpole
Politarchopolis, Lochac     Canberra Australia
             ewalpole@austar.net.au

People are like stained glass windows. They sparkle and shine when the sun
is out, but when the darkness sets in ,their true beauty is revealed only if
there is light from within.
Elizabeth Kubler-Ross

The years that a woman subtracts from her age are not lost. They are added
to the ages of other women.
Diane de Poitiers (1499-1566) Attrib.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patton Tank Corps Uniform
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I have forwarded this question to my boyfriend who is not only a former
tank commander , but is a historic uniform buff (WWII) and has had
extensive experience at the Patton Museum. Hopefully he will have some
resources for you.


Karen

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Subject: [h-cost] A ''new'' portrait of Mary Tudor
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http://titan.imareal.oeaw.ac.at/server/images/7015113.JPG

Thought some of you might be interested in this portrait.  It was new to me.
It may be a copy, but interesting none the less.

 

Kunstwerk: Deckfarbenmalerei ; Porträtbuch des Hieronymus Beck von
Leopoldsdorf ; Wien 
Dokumentation: 1575 ; 1585 ; Wien ; Österreich ; Wien ; Kunsthistorisches
Museum ; IN 9691 ; fol.547 
Anmerkungen: 275x180 ; Ebreichsdorf ; Heinz 1975,165-310

 

Sg

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I'm looking for information about 1st century CE British
clothing/textiles/dyes for a project. Specifically, I'm looking to recreate
(as close to authentically as possible) Boudicca who lived around 40-60 CE
in eastern Britain during the Roman occupation.

I know there is a paucity of information out there and this project will
take considerable digging and time but I thought I'd start by asking if
anyone here could point me in the right direction for source material.

Any and all tips would be appreciated; I've got a fairly generous amount of
time in which to accomplish this but know it wil be research intensive (the
actual construction time will be negligible, I suspect).

Thanks,
Nora

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> > What's everyone else doing?

Relearning needlpoint and hopefully learning petit point too. Bought a
yard of needlepoint canvas so I'll have plenty of room to make mistakes.
;)

Arlys

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jun 20 11:19:24 2004
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Hello,

>I'm planning on making a reproduction of the tank
>corps uniform 

I assume that this would be a WWII uniform.  You might
want to try Osprey Publishing, who publish guides to
uniforms, troops, and battles.  Their books all have
large numbers of photographs and illustrations. 

http://www.ospreypublishing.com/title_detail.php/title=S5546~ser=WAR~per=2

The other source to try is the Imperial War Museum,
who have an image collection.  It was due to be
digitized, but I don't know what stage they are at
with that.  They have photos of just about everything;
I am sure that that would include American tank
drivers.  Of course, getting it might be more
difficult due to copyright, but it's worth a try.  The
staff are great, anyway, and conidering the rest of
their collection, they might have one folded away in a
storeroom somewhere.  

Anyway, good luck,
Chris


	
	
		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A ''new'' portrait of Mary Tudor
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In a message dated 6/20/04 8:00:41 AM Central Daylight Time, 
saragrace@earthlink.net writes:
Thought some of you might be interested in this portrait.  It was new to me.
It may be a copy, but interesting none the less.

It looks to me like a rather bad copy of this portrait:

http://englishhistory.net/tudor/monarchs/mary1.html

which is documented to have been painted during the queen's lifetime.

-Tiffany
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 Here's the word from my boyfriend, who has actually seent he thing up close and personal.  
  
  IIRC...the jacket at the Patton isn't faded at all.  It's been protected for years, under museum lighting and in enclosed cabinetry.  My guess is that the colors may have been washed out by the flash on the camera.  It's fortunate the museum still has it--it's a one-of-a-kind prototype, and few surviving pictures exist of it (I can think of only one, with Patton wearing it).  
 
  Now, what else do I remember of it...Colonel Patton was clearly going for something that strongly resembled a classic British or German lancer/hussar tunic.  However, the US Cavalry had never worn anything that was so identifiably European in look...and died stillborn as a result.  The Green Hornet name hung on the effort, after all, came from the troops.
 
  The uniform, as I recall Patton's intent, consisted of the helmet, tunic, cavalry breeches, and riding boots.  
 
Headgear:  Gold-painted football helmet,  unmodified, from the period.  I gather that some sort of radio gear would've been added over time, as vehicle intercoms improved--but this one remains unmodified.
 
The tunic:  A forest green fabric, possibly a denim, possibly a light wool...this was intended to be worn on the vehicle as well as off.  It has the plastron front of a Lancer-style tunic, and uses the standard gold Service Dress buttons from the period.  I want to say the the jacket has narrow piping applied around the front (cavalry yellow?); however, it must be noted that I haven't seen the actualy jacket since my last visit there in 1993 (I was attending the Armor Officer Advanced Course at Ft Knox, the Patton Museum's home)
 
Breeches:  I believe that the standard-pattern cavalry breeches of the period were worn with the tunic.  I have no info as to wheter they were the tan or forest green.
 
Boots:  The russet-brown, lace-up riding boots of the 1931 pattern.  
            
  I doubt that new belts for sidearms, spare ammunition, field gear, etc would've been authorized...thus, the russet-brown waist belt,  russet-brown Sam Browne belt, or khaki webbed belt would likely have been worn, depending on rank and type of duty.  The best single source for illustrations of the boots, belts, etc,  I can think of is The Horse Soldier 1776-1943 (The United States Cavalryman:  His Uniforms, Accoutrements, and Equipments), Volume IV, World War I, the Peacetime Army, World War II 1917-1943 by written and illustrated by Randy Steffen, 1979, University of Oklahoma press (and is still available, softbound).  You won't find the Green Hornet here--it was never seriously considered by the Army uniform board--but you'll find the details you need to complete it.
 
  On a historical note:  George Patton only had command of the Tank Corps, such as it was (a temporary, wartime setup which Congress disestablished in 1920), in France during WWI.  At the time he held the temporary (wartime) rank of Colonel.  This uniform dates to the 1930's, and is a reminder that Patton was a career Cavalry officer. 

And the grips on his pistols (a .38 and a .357) are ivory, not pearl--"...pearl is good for a New Orleans pimp...".  The pearl business seems to have come from a reporter writing an early feature piece on him and never thought to actually ask someone.  Those, I've actually held...
 


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jun 20 19:14:13 2004
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Mari Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16c chemise neckline bindings
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This is the way I do my chemises now.  I tried it on one flemish "work a 
day" chemise and the difference in the look and behaviour of the neckline 
were so improved that I am working on <sigh> re-doing all my chemises to 
this method.  It's a slog... but everytime I try one on,  and I see how 
well it lays on the body...  I keep going on to the next one.

Bridgette

>cut your binding in
>the shape you want the finished neckline to be (which to remain concealed
>beneath a square neckline means 4 strips of fabric with mitred corners) and
>cutting it on the straight is probably more period not only because it uses
>more fabric but because you don't want it to stretch around corners, you
>want it to stay straight to make a nice square so it sits neatly under a
>square neckline. Unfortunately I can't speak from experience because I took
>the shortcut of using a drawstring when I made my gathered chemise.

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Since there may be interest...

I've set up a group at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/costumetrader/

If folks want to use it, fine. Right now the membership is open and it 
uses the yahoo features for archives and photos.  If nobody signs up, it 
won't hurt my feelings. :)

I'm not sure how I feel about ebay ads. If someone has an opinion one 
way or the other, email me or post to the costumetrader list. I'd like 
it to be a friendly, useable list.


Dawn



Robin Netherton wrote:

> On Sun, 20 Jun 2004, Danielle Nunn-Weinberg wrote:
> 
> 
>>Or, there is the long forgotten H-Costume Swap & Sell in Yahoo Groups.  
>>It would be nice to resurrect that poor thing.
> 
> 
> Actually, it's not on Yahoo, but on CommunityZero, and I think that's one
> reason it didn't catch on; it required people to learn yet another
> interface. I sold some fabric there ages ago, when it first started up.
> I've just tried my bookmarked link and got a group-not-found note, so
> perhaps it was closed for lack of activity.
> 
> Yahoogroups would be easier, particularly since it sends out emails (as a
> list) and you don't have to go to a website to hunt up announcements, but
> it also has a place where people can post pictures, which is helpful when
> you want to show off your fabric.
> 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/garb4sale/
> 
> Reading the description there, I see this is technically an SCA-spinoff
> group and therefore limited to medieval/Renaissance, but fabric is fabric,
> and I can't imagine them tossing out anyone who wants to sell/buy, unless
> you try to sell finished costumes from a post-Renaissance period. If
> enough people want to do that, we should set up an hcost supplemental
> group for sale/trade of fabric, books, clothes, etc.

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Hi Robin et al,

Actually, after Community Zero went pay I switched it to Yahoo groups and there are some people on the list who are still memebers I believe.  Anyway, as I said, H-Costume Swap & Sell is still around if people want to use it.

Cheers,
Danielle
--------- Original Message ---------
>Robin Netherton wrote:
>
>> On Sun, 20 Jun 2004, Danielle Nunn-Weinberg wrote:
>> 
>> 
>>>Or, there is the long forgotten H-Costume Swap & Sell in Yahoo Groups.  
>>>It would be nice to resurrect that poor thing.
>> 
>> 
>> Actually, it's not on Yahoo, but on CommunityZero, and I think that's one
>> reason it didn't catch on; it required people to learn yet another
>> interface. I sold some fabric there ages ago, when it first started up.
>> I've just tried my bookmarked link and got a group-not-found note, so
>> perhaps it was closed for lack of activity.
>> 
>> Yahoogroups would be easier, particularly since it sends out emails (as a
>> list) and you don't have to go to a website to hunt up announcements, but
>> it also has a place where people can post pictures, which is helpful when
>> you want to show off your fabric.
>> 
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/garb4sale/
>> 
>> Reading the description there, I see this is technically an SCA-spinoff
>> group and therefore limited to medieval/Renaissance, but fabric is fabric,
>> and I can't imagine them tossing out anyone who wants to sell/buy, unless
>> you try to sell finished costumes from a post-Renaissance period. If
>> enough people want to do that, we should set up an hcost supplemental
>> group for sale/trade of fabric, books, clothes, etc.
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



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On Sun, 20 Jun 2004, Danielle Nunn-Weinberg wrote:

> Actually, after Community Zero went pay I switched it to Yahoo groups
> and there are some people on the list who are still memebers I
> believe.  Anyway, as I said, H-Costume Swap & Sell is still around if
> people want to use it.

I didn't know this, and I'm not on the group. What is the exact name? It
doesn't appear on a yahoo search.

--Robin

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Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2004 18:34:05 -0700
From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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I'd like a place I can sell a boxful of used (viewed once by me) costume 
videos I want to deaccess from the personal collection I've been 
accumulating.  Other peoples' tastes may vary.  Also I have ended up 
with unopened duplicates of a couple by mistake.  Ebay isn't worth the 
fees and time for something like a video.  At least not to me right now.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
Two new books of 1870s and 1880s patterns
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Dawn wrote:

> Since there may be interest...
>
> I've set up a group at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/costumetrader/
>
> If folks want to use it, fine. Right now the membership is open and it 
> uses the yahoo features for archives and photos.  If nobody signs up, 
> it won't hurt my feelings. :)
>
> I'm not sure how I feel about ebay ads. If someone has an opinion one 
> way or the other, email me or post to the costumetrader list. I'd like 
> it to be a friendly, useable list.
>
>
> Dawn
>
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jun 20 21:46:24 2004
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Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2004 10:41:48 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for Roman-Britain sources
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At 8:15 AM -0500 6/20/04, Bruce & Nora Mai wrote:
>I'm looking for information about 1st century CE British
>clothing/textiles/dyes for a project. Specifically, I'm looking to recreate
>(as close to authentically as possible) Boudicca who lived around 40-60 CE
>in eastern Britain during the Roman occupation.
>
>I know there is a paucity of information out there and this project will
>take considerable digging and time but I thought I'd start by asking if
>anyone here could point me in the right direction for source material.
>
>Any and all tips would be appreciated; I've got a fairly generous amount of
>time in which to accomplish this but know it wil be research intensive (the
>actual construction time will be negligible, I suspect).

I can give you a bibliography-dump with no 
guarantees of even or complete coverage.  These 
are either general works on Roman-era clothing 
and accessories or works specifically focusing on 
Britain.  I've got a lot of other stuff on 
Roman-era material from other regions, which I 
could add if you're interested.

Heather

=====================================

Guido, Margaret.  1978.  Glass Beads of the 
Prehistoric and Roman Periods in Britain and 
Ireland.  Thames & Hudson, London.  ISBN 
0-500-99026-3

Johns, Catherine.  1996.  Jewellery of Roman 
Britain.  Univ of Michigan Press, Ann Arbor. 
ISBN  0-472-10766-6

Rogers, Penelope Walton, Lise Bender Jørgensen & 
Antoinette Rast-Eicher.  2001.  Roman Textile 
Industry and its Influence.  Oxbow Books, Oxford. 
ISBN  1-84217-046-5

Wild, J.P.  1970.  Textile Manufacture in the 
Northern Roman Provinces.  Cambridge University 
Press.  SBN 521-07491-6

Croom, A.T.  2000.  Roman Clothing and Fashion. 
Tempus Publishing, Inc., Charleston.  ISBN 
0-7524-1469-0

Sebesta, Judith Lynn & Larissa Bonfante eds.. 
2001.  World of Roman Costume.  University of 
Wisconsin Press, Madicon.  ISBN  0-299-13854-2

Wild, John Peter.  1975.  "Roman Textiles from 
the Walbrook (London)" in  Germania:  53:138-143.


-- 
****
Heather Rose Jones
heather.jones@earthlink.net
****

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Subject: [h-cost] Online Costume Classes for Summer
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I wanted to remind people that we have several online costume classes this summer at the Costume Classroom, http://www.costumeclassroom.com .  Six classes will open Monday, June 21.  Below is a listing of our summer classes.

JUNE CLASSES (all starting June 21)
***Evolution of Fashion in the Life of Elizabeth I as Depicted in Film 
***Women's Clothing of the American Civil War Period
***Making the Victorian Lady: An Over and Under View (1868-1900): Hints and helps on hats and undergarments

JULY CLASSES: 
***Fact or Fantasy? A Look at Costumes in Recent Regency Film
***Propriety, Plain and Fancy - Victorian and Edwardian Fashions from Bustle to Gibson Girl

AUGUST CLASS:
***No Lady of Leisure-Dress for the Working Class<BR>Victorian/Edwardian Woman (1850-1910)

SUMMER / AUTUMN SEMESTER CLASSES
Semester classes are open from June 21 - Dec. 31, 2004; Last date to enroll: Nov. 15. Completion date: Dec. 31, 2004. Semester classes are taken at your own pace.
***Dressing Jane Austen:  Make Your Own Regency Gown
***Fashion Finery: Make an Heirloom 1914 Dress and Underdress
***Parasols from the Victorian/Edwardian eras- History- Identification- Restoration and Replication

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
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From: "Danielle Nunn-Weinberg" <dannw@eudoramail.com>
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Hi,

You should be able to find it under swapsell.

Cheers,
Danielle

--------- Original Message ---------
>On Sun, 20 Jun 2004, Danielle Nunn-Weinberg wrote:
>
>> Actually, after Community Zero went pay I switched it to Yahoo groups
>> and there are some people on the list who are still memebers I
>> believe.  Anyway, as I said, H-Costume Swap & Sell is still around if
>> people want to use it.
>
>I didn't know this, and I'm not on the group. What is the exact name? It
>doesn't appear on a yahoo search.
>
>--Robin


Need a new email address that people can remember
Check out the new EudoraMail at
http://www.eudoramail.com
_______________________________________________
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From: "Danielle Nunn-Weinberg" <dannw@eudoramail.com>
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Status: RO

You can also sell those on the swap & sell if you like, since it is free - private transactions between individuals.

Cheers,
Danielle

--------- Original Message ---------
>I'd like a place I can sell a boxful of used (viewed once by me) costume 
>videos I want to deaccess from the personal collection I've been 
>accumulating.  Other peoples' tastes may vary.  Also I have ended up 
>with unopened duplicates of a couple by mistake.  Ebay isn't worth the 
>fees and time for something like a video.  At least not to me right now.
>
>Fran
>Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
>Two new books of 1870s and 1880s patterns
>http://www.lavoltapress.com
>
>Dawn wrote:
>
>> Since there may be interest...
>>
>> I've set up a group at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/costumetrader/
>>
>> If folks want to use it, fine. Right now the membership is open and it 
>> uses the yahoo features for archives and photos.  If nobody signs up, 
>> it won't hurt my feelings. :)
>>
>> I'm not sure how I feel about ebay ads. If someone has an opinion one 
>> way or the other, email me or post to the costumetrader list. I'd like 
>> it to be a friendly, useable list.
>>
>>
>> Dawn


Need a new email address that people can remember
Check out the new EudoraMail at
http://www.eudoramail.com
_______________________________________________
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On Mon, 21 Jun 2004, Danielle Nunn-Weinberg wrote:

> You should be able to find it under swapsell.

Oddly, it doesn't come up on a search, but it's accessible if you put the
name directly into the usual formula:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/swapsell/

--Robin

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I may list them, but I hope that more people join the group.

Fran

Danielle Nunn-Weinberg wrote:

>You can also sell those on the swap & sell if you like, since it is free - private transactions between individuals.
>
>Cheers,
>Danielle
>
>--------- Original Message ---------
>  
>
>>I'd like a place I can sell a boxful of used (viewed once by me) costume 
>>videos I want to deaccess from the personal collection I've been 
>>accumulating.  Other peoples' tastes may vary.  Also I have ended up 
>>with unopened duplicates of a couple by mistake.  Ebay isn't worth the 
>>fees and time for something like a video.  At least not to me right now.
>>
>>Fran
>>Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
>>Two new books of 1870s and 1880s patterns
>>http://www.lavoltapress.com
>>
>>Dawn wrote:
>>
>>    
>>
>>>Since there may be interest...
>>>
>>>I've set up a group at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/costumetrader/
>>>
>>>If folks want to use it, fine. Right now the membership is open and it 
>>>uses the yahoo features for archives and photos.  If nobody signs up, 
>>>it won't hurt my feelings. :)
>>>
>>>I'm not sure how I feel about ebay ads. If someone has an opinion one 
>>>way or the other, email me or post to the costumetrader list. I'd like 
>>>it to be a friendly, useable list.
>>>
>>>
>>>Dawn
>>>      
>>>
>
>
>Need a new email address that people can remember
>Check out the new EudoraMail at
>http://www.eudoramail.com
>_______________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2004 22:23:04 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for Roman-Britain sources
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>I'm looking for information about 1st century CE British
>clothing/textiles/dyes for a project. Specifically, I'm looking to recreate
>(as close to authentically as possible) Boudicca who lived around 40-60 CE
>in eastern Britain during the Roman occupation.

There's a group in England who does re-enacting in this period.  I think
they're the ones who lent repro stuff to the Osprey book on the subject.  I
don't, of course, remember their name, but I bet whoever they are they have
a website.

       CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
         www.FunStuft.com

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From: Lena Strid <lstrid@mglarc.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] What I (Will Do) On My Holidays
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2004 09:02:03 +0100
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Hilary wrote:
>what is everyone planning to start/continue/finish over the summer? Or is
anyone going to a new/interesting/unknown place in the name of costume?

I'm wrestling with finishing a 13th century kirtle, as well as finishing my
lecture on medieval underwear, which both have to be ready for the Medieval
Week in Visby (Sweden) in the beginning of August. Is anyone else here
going?

The autumn project is a 13th/early 14th century surcote. 

/Lena


=================================================
Margaret Gowen & Co. Ltd.
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Glenageary         e-mail: archaeology@mglarc.com
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From: "lisa-list" <lisa-list@thrednedlestrete.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 16c chemise neckline bindings
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2004 06:56:00 -0700
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I was actually thinking of the curved or round neckline when I wrote this.
I haven't found any evidence for a bias cut just straight grain.  Boy would
I love a trip to England to look at some of those smocks in person!!!

Lisa Sinervo
www.ThrednedleStrete.com
www.Historic-Embroidery.com


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Cynthia Virtue
Sent: Monday, June 21, 2004 6:36 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16c chemise neckline bindings


I sewed my chemise into a straight on-grain band, and it's quite stable.
  I didn't miter the corners at all; the extra at the corners folds up
easily and doesn't give me any trouble.

--
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

Loki, Eris, and Coyote walk into a bar, and the bartender says 'Order,
please.'
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2004 11:43:57 -0400
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Subject: [h-cost] Fw:  A family in need :a request for help
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Hi all!

I hope no-one minds that I have forwarded this to the list, but I thought if
there is anyone here who is in the area of British Columbia, Canada,  you
might be able to help or know someone who can.

Thanks

Sheridan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lady Eleonore"
Sent: Monday, June 21, 2004 1:20 AM
Subject: [MW] A family in need :a request for help



>     A few nights ago an SCA family lost their home and possesions to a
fire.Nothing was left .The family (5 persons) managed to escape with no
injuries but only the clothes on their backs.The family live in the shire of
Loch d'Or in western Avacal.
>
>     As they have nothing at all I am asking any and all gentles to look
into their homes and see if they have anything that might help them out
.They are in need of everything from clothes and toiletries (soap, shampoo
toothpaste etc) to house hold goods.The also lost all their SCA items as
well .
>      Local members have some items to give them. Pots and pans from one
who used to own a restaurant and others are donating time for a work bee to
help them rebuild as well as contacting local builders for any scrap lumber
they can spare.
>
>     If anyone has items that they can part with to help the family out ,it
would be greatly and deeply appreciated.
>
>     Clothes are one of their great needs right now .The mother is about
5'4" and wears about a size 18 ,the father is 6'2" ish and very slim (he
also has a back injury and is on disability)
> The kids 23,14 and 12 need items as well.
>     The 23 YO male is about 5'8" and very slim , the 14YO male is about
5'6" heaver build than the father ,boys size 18 should fit and the 12YO
female is about 5'2" and is about a girls size 12 .
>
>     If anyone has items that may fit and are no longer needed in your
house please consider donating them .
> All clothing and other goods can be sent to the senechals address. He will
make sure they recieve them in a timely manner. His address is :  Joe Bechal
PO Box 133 Crawford Bay BC V0B 1E0  (250) 227 - 9205.
>
>      A jar has been set in the local credit union to collect funds for
them as well. Any monitary donations can be sent directly to the credit
union.  Address is : Eastshore Credit Union PO Box 96 Crawford Bay BC V0B1E0
> (250) 227 - 9221  ATTN : Kate and Andrew Butcher fire relief fund .
>
>      Any email inquires can be sent to me  ladyeleonore@shaw.ca  and I
will relay the message (the senechals email is down).
>      A work bee is being planned date TBA when we have more information. I
will post the date when I know more.
>
> I thank everyone who can help out this family in need.
>
> In Service,
>     HL Eleonore the Everlasting


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Subject: [h-cost] order please?
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OK, ya got me.  Please explain. <G>
Julie

>Cynthia Virtue and/or
>Cynthia du Pré Argent
>
>Loki, Eris, and Coyote walk into a bar, and the bartender says 'Order,
please.'
>


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Status: RO

All three of the named deities are trickster gods in their various 
pantheons.  You could think of them as Chaotic Neutral/Good in the D&D 
world.  Order and predictability are *not* their thing.

Julie wrote:

> OK, ya got me.  Please explain. <G>
> Julie

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

Loki, Eris, and Coyote walk into a bar, and the bartender says 'Order, 
please.'
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They are all trickster types and order is not, uhmm, their strong suit.


> OK, ya got me.  Please explain. <G>
> Julie
>
> >Cynthia Virtue and/or
> >Cynthia du Pré Argent
> >
> >Loki, Eris, and Coyote walk into a bar, and the bartender says 'Order,
> please.'
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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I'm thinking that they are all gods or archetypes of chaos and DISorder.

Cute!  I always look forward to reading Cynthia's signature quotes...

Cheers,
Heidi


>>OK, ya got me.  Please explain. <G>
>>Julie

>Cynthia Virtue and/or
>Cynthia du Pré Argent
>
>Loki, Eris, and Coyote walk into a bar, and the bartender says 'Order,
please.'
>


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============================================================



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I sewed my chemise into a straight on-grain band, and it's quite stable. 
  I didn't miter the corners at all; the extra at the corners folds up 
easily and doesn't give me any trouble.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

Loki, Eris, and Coyote walk into a bar, and the bartender says 'Order, 
please.'
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jun 21 14:45:43 2004
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From: Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
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I Have pictures of me wearing the Dress!!!!!!!
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Robealafrancaise/Robe.html
I tried to do the right mackeup and hairstyle.
Lot of people who saw me at the fantasy fair loved my dress.
I only made one mistake in the dress.
But luckely you don't see it in the pictures.
The pleated strips on the front of the dress are cut with pinking sizzors.
But I discovered that it depends on wich way you cut the fabrik if it 
wil fray or not.
After one day of wearing the dress it looked very fussy :-( .
I think I will put some fabrik glue on the edges and then cut them again 
so they will look nice again.

Greetings,
        Deredere


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Katie Pleasance <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] order please?
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Ah, sorta like "The Society for Consolidated Entropy"?

Katie

At 02:20 PM 6/21/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>All three of the named deities are trickster gods in their various 
>pantheons.  You could think of them as Chaotic Neutral/Good in the D&D 
>world.  Order and predictability are *not* their thing.



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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jun 21 16:22:03 2004
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From: KATHRYN WOLTERS <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Last time Robe a la Francaise
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Deredere, I think it's lovely!!!
Albra

Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl> wrote:
I Have pictures of me wearing the Dress!!!!!!!
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Robealafrancaise/Robe.html
I tried to do the right mackeup and hairstyle.
Lot of people who saw me at the fantasy fair loved my dress.
I only made one mistake in the dress.
But luckely you don't see it in the pictures.
The pleated strips on the front of the dress are cut with pinking sizzors.
But I discovered that it depends on wich way you cut the fabrik if it 
wil fray or not.
After one day of wearing the dress it looked very fussy :-( .
I think I will put some fabrik glue on the edges and then cut them again 
so they will look nice again.

Greetings,
Deredere


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Subject: [h-cost] Looking for patterns for 17th nun's habits
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Good Afternoon:
I am going to be designing a production of Suor Angelica by Puccini for 
the 2004/2005 Capital Opera Raleigh season.  I am looking for an 
authentic pattern for nun's habits from the 17th century.  Puccini does 
not specify to which order Angelica belongs, and I do not want to be 
sacrilegious and do something terribly wrong.  Any assistance with this 
quandary is welcome.  This is not your Sound of Music habit!
Thanks very much!
David

-- 
David Serxner
NCSU Libraries Acquisitions Dept.
Serials and Electronic Resources
Campus Box 7111
Raleigh, NC  27695-7111
919-513-3355 office
919-515-7292 fax


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Last time Robe a la Francaise
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It's gorgeous. So are you. :-)

Arlys

On Mon, 21 Jun 2004 20:45:34 +0200 Deredere Galbraith
<triade@kabelfoon.nl> writes:
> I Have pictures of me wearing the Dress!!!!!!!
> http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Robealafrancaise/Robe.html
> I tried to do the right mackeup and hairstyle.
> Lot of people who saw me at the fantasy fair loved my dress.
> I only made one mistake in the dress.
> But luckely you don't see it in the pictures.
> The pleated strips on the front of the dress are cut with pinking 
> sizzors.
> But I discovered that it depends on wich way you cut the fabrik if 
> it 
> wil fray or not.
> After one day of wearing the dress it looked very fussy :-( .
> I think I will put some fabrik glue on the edges and then cut them 
> again 
> so they will look nice again.
> 
> Greetings,
>         Deredere
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jun 21 18:04:13 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need thoughts on an image
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>  The whole outfit also reminded me of that Orientalist
> at-home wear adopted by English gentlemen in the 18th c.
That's exactly what I was thinking of.

> Now the pose is something else.  It's a classic portrait pose from Italy
and
> northern Europe from the very late 14th c. up to the early 16th c.
Learned
> men are almost always shown holding a rolled or folded document or a book.
Aaaahhh, so THAT's why I looked at it and said "Italy!", and then took a
second look and went "Uuuhhh, Oriental?". The pose screamed Italian to me,
but the clothing has nothing to do with it.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need thoughts on an image
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So Robin, now that a bunch of us have taken a stab at it, what do you 
think is going on with the image?

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

Loki, Eris, and Coyote walk into a bar, and the bartender says 'Order, 
please.'
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Looks pretty damn good to me...though my PC won't let me "blow up" the 
thumbnails. [I'll sign off, reboot, and then it will probably let me. I hate 
computers....]


BTW....who saw the "Dangerous Liaisons" exhibit at the Met Museum in NYC? 
Anyone?

I loved it! Finally, a good idea from the Costume Institute....the 1st real 
good one since Diana Vreeland died. They've chipped away mercilessly at the 
CI's space with the new cafeteria. [But boy...is the food great!] So anyway, some 
curator with brains had the idea of combining the clothes with furnishings. 
The exhibit is in the 18th Century French Furnishing section of the museum. 
They've set up rooms with little dramas going on in them. The lighting is 
great....natural looking. And the mannequins are all white but the goings on are 
believable. A lady getting her hair dressed, card players, amorous encounters in 
the boudoir, a fainter in the salon,,,,,all in amazing gowns and beautiful 
suits.

Go check it out if you're in the Big Apple. I think it's there until Sept. 
[or that might be the Modigliani retrospective at the Jewish Museum...also a 
must see!]
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need thoughts on an image
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On Mon, 21 Jun 2004, Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> So Robin, now that a bunch of us have taken a stab at it, what do you
> think is going on with the image?

Everything I said in my original response to the researcher has come up in
this thread, plus several people have added a lot more. (I don't know
anything about Turkish garb, 1920s Orientalism, or Yeats.) I read the hat
as a chaperon -- because of the extra fabric at the top, and also the
combination with the coat and the general mid-1400s Germanic look of the
piece. But the latchet button fastenings had me stumped; I don't know
where the author got that. (Perhaps from some costume book that claimed
that medieval people didn't use buttonholes? It's been said...)

On reflection, I think a turban is an equally plausible reading of the
headgear. I need to remind myself that the artist was probably just
looking for a look that screamed "medieval" to him and his audience, and
being unfamiliar with the nuances of the clothing, he would likely not
render it in so accurate a way that we could confidently tell a stylized
chaperon from a stylized turban based on clues in the fall of the fabric
or the combination of elements, as we might with an authentic period
artwork.

I'm passing all the posts to the researcher. She's hoping to show that
Dulac (and/or Yeats) had a particular historic scholar in mind as the
model for the Geraldus character, but I frankly don't think that Dulac's
"medieval-oid" rendering can provide any definitive clues as to period,
even if he knew what Yeats had in mind (and that's not certain). I suspect
his only goal was to provide an artwork that had the flavor of a
frontispiece in a 15th- or 16th-century book, and he didn't think much
beyond that. But then, a 15th- or 16th-century engraver would have readily
shown an author in current fashion even if that person were hundreds of
years dead, so the 15th-century flavor doesn't rule out an earlier
"author" for the fictitious book being illustrated.

I find most interesting the possibility that Dulac was deliberately
calling up a Turkish or Oriental feeling, and that may be the most
valuable point to come out of this discussion.

I can always depend on this list to provide wonderful food for thought.
Thank you all, on behalf of the researcher who posed the question, and
myself.

--Robin

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Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:

>How much the lack of filtering for "accuracy" matters depends on what
information you are collecting.  I think, for example, that a collection of
images of period art, organized by country of origin and approximate date,
would be an excellent resource, even though (especially?) it would require
people to do additional research elsewhere to get the maximum benefit out of
it.

I have a little program almost through development at
http://www.thrednedlestrete.com/project/Home/Home.cfm  I created it because
I can never find anything and I was taking a web development class at
college.  It's a find a portrait database which  will allow one to search
not just by sitter, painter, year etc, but also by garment type /
embellishment, it will give you a link to a museum web site for the portrait
if there is one, and a list of costume books the portrait can be found on.
It's not quite complete but you can play with the test version using a user
name of "guest" and a password of "portraits".  Use Robert Dudley as a good
name to see how the costume book contents comes up.  The hyperlinks right
now only go the the National Portrait Gallery's main site, not to the
individual portraits, but you can use the NPG number to find the right
painting.

This program has a web based admin section so I can add data to it from an
internet connection.  I do plan on getting 16th century English data into it
but time limitations will not permit a larger scope to the project.  I would
however, be willing to give this program to anyone who wishes to collect
data or to h-costume if a number of people are interested in compiling a
resource.  More fields can be added if required.  I'm planning on setting up
a check list for going through portraits to tick what types of garments are
found so some analysis can be done.

This runs on coldfusion, and I can run it on my site, but I don't
unfortunately have the time to admister it.  If anyone as an individual or
group is interested in using this speak up.  There is just a bit more
tweaking to do to make it quite useable.

Lisa Sinervo


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jun 21 21:07:37 2004
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actually, I guess I should have said, I could administer the database but I
would not have time to check for data accuracy especially about time periods
I know little about.

Lisa


-----Original Message-----
From: lisa-list [mailto:lisa-list@thrednedlestrete.com]
Sent: Monday, June 21, 2004 5:56 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: database for central repository - really


Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:

>How much the lack of filtering for "accuracy" matters depends on what
information you are collecting.  I think, for example, that a collection of
images of period art, organized by country of origin and approximate date,
would be an excellent resource, even though (especially?) it would require
people to do additional research elsewhere to get the maximum benefit out of
it.

I have a little program almost through development at
http://www.thrednedlestrete.com/project/Home/Home.cfm  I created it because
I can never find anything and I was taking a web development class at
college.  It's a find a portrait database which  will allow one to search
not just by sitter, painter, year etc, but also by garment type /
embellishment, it will give you a link to a museum web site for the portrait
if there is one, and a list of costume books the portrait can be found on.
It's not quite complete but you can play with the test version using a user
name of "guest" and a password of "portraits".  Use Robert Dudley as a good
name to see how the costume book contents comes up.  The hyperlinks right
now only go the the National Portrait Gallery's main site, not to the
individual portraits, but you can use the NPG number to find the right
painting.

This program has a web based admin section so I can add data to it from an
internet connection.  I do plan on getting 16th century English data into it
but time limitations will not permit a larger scope to the project.  I would
however, be willing to give this program to anyone who wishes to collect
data or to h-costume if a number of people are interested in compiling a
resource.  More fields can be added if required.  I'm planning on setting up
a check list for going through portraits to tick what types of garments are
found so some analysis can be done.

This runs on coldfusion, and I can run it on my site, but I don't
unfortunately have the time to admister it.  If anyone as an individual or
group is interested in using this speak up.  There is just a bit more
tweaking to do to make it quite useable.

Lisa Sinervo


_______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jun 21 21:23:21 2004
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Tee hee.  OK.  Thanks.  Loki is Scandanavian.  Which pantheon are Eris and
Coyote?

Julie

>All three of the named deities are trickster gods in their various
>pantheons.  You could think of them as Chaotic Neutral/Good in the D&D
>world.  Order and predictability are *not* their thing.
>
>Julie wrote:
>
>> OK, ya got me.  Please explain. <G>
>> Julie
>
>--
>Cynthia Virtue and/or
>Cynthia du Pré Argent
>
>Loki, Eris, and Coyote walk into a bar, and the bartender says 'Order,
>please.'
>


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Julie wrote:

> Tee hee.  OK.  Thanks.  Loki is Scandanavian.  Which pantheon are Eris and
> Coyote?
>>Loki, Eris, and Coyote walk into a bar, and the bartender says 'Order,
>>please.'

Coyote: American Southwest, mostly. 
http://members.cox.net/academia/coyote.html

Eris: "Eris is the ancient Greek goddess of discord, daughter of Zeus 
and Hera and frequent companion of her brother (some say twin) Ares" 
http://www.fact-index.com/e/er/eris.html

Tricksters in general (list & links) 
http://www.fact-index.com/t/tr/trickster.html

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du PrÃ© Argent

June 21, 2004: Scaled Composites launched the first private manned 
vehicle beyond the EarthÕs atmosphere today. Under the command of test 
pilot Mike Melvill, SpaceShipOne reached a record breaking altitude of 
approximately 62 miles, making Melvill the first civilian to fly a 
spaceship out of the atmosphere and the first private pilot to earn 
astronaut wings.
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>From: seamstrix@juno.com
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Patton Tank Corps Uniform
>
>I have forwarded this question to my boyfriend who is not only a former
>tank commander , but is a historic uniform buff (WWII) and has had
>extensive experience at the Patton Museum. Hopefully he will have some
>resources for you.
>
>Karen

Thanks, Karen,

Pierre


"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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>Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2004 16:18:42 +0100 (BST)
>From: Christina Claridge <christclaridge@yahoo.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] Re: Patton tank uniform
>
>Hello,
>
> >I'm planning on making a reproduction of the tank
> >corps uniform
>
>I assume that this would be a WWII uniform.  You might
>want to try Osprey Publishing, who publish guides to
>uniforms, troops, and battles.  Their books all have
>large numbers of photographs and illustrations.

Actually, no. It was in the 1930's and it is a one off. There was only one 
of these ever made. I hesitate to use Osprey only because I don't have a 
local source and I hate to spend $13-15 a book when I don't know if it has 
anything at all.

Thanks though.

Pierre

>http://www.ospreypublishing.com/title_detail.php/title=S5546~ser=WAR~per=2
>
>Anyway, good luck,
>Chris

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Patton uniform
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According to my boyfriend, you are correct in that is does not appear in
any of the Osprey series. He pretty much has all the ones pertaining to
mid-20th century warfare and if he says it's not there, it's not there.
The uniform was supposed to have been a prototype for the tank corps, but
was met with a great deal of hostility by the rank and file and was never
produced.


Karen


On Mon, 21 Jun 2004 16:23:50 -0500 Pierre & Sandy Pettinger 

> Actually, no. It was in the 1930's and it is a one off. There was 
> only one 
> of these ever made. I hesitate to use Osprey only because I don't 
> have a 
> local source and I hate to spend $13-15 a book when I don't know if 
> it has anything at all.
> 
> Thanks though.
> 
> Pierre

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need thoughts on an image
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>I find most interesting the possibility that Dulac was deliberately
>calling up a Turkish or Oriental feeling, and that may be the most
>valuable point to come out of this discussion.

Turkish costume looks just like this in the early 1500s.  There's a turban,
an overcoat, possibly with a collar, and a button-front closure with
'frogging'.  I will dig for European woodcuts of Turks showing these
elements, but I know some are in Vecellio. 

(Searched for half an hour, and can't find the Vecellio illustrations that
used to be online.  I'll have to dig out Dover's woodcut history, and
upload them to my web page.)

       CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
         www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: [h-cost] Shopping in Budapest
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Whew, finally caught up with all the digests from vacation!

Ok, I recently found out that my 75-year-old mother is traveling to
Budapest in July to attend a friend's wedding.  I inheirited my
fiber/costume gene from her :).  She was wondering if there was
anything/place fiber/costume related in Budapest or Hungary she should
be sure not to miss.  I figured this was the group to ask!  She will
actually be staying with friends at a resort town a couple of hours
outside of Budapest but they are going to try and help her get some
sightseeing in too.  She will be stopping in Zurich on the way home to
visit with more friends.  Any ideas, suggestions, advice?

Thanks,
Catherine
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Status: RO

thanks very helpful


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Edith Reardon" <edieann@telus.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 19, 2004 12:07 PM
Subject: [h-cost] hair net snood


Look what I found under a search of hair net.   I've been looking for a
pattern for a woven snood rather than crochet or sewed.

Brin Kendall

 http://www.forest.gen.nz/Medieval/articles/hairnets/hairnets2.pdf
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Subject: [h-cost] portrait database
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Status: RO

This sounds wonderful.  When might it be up and running?  Everything I tried
came up with 0.
Thanks
Julie


>I have a little program almost through development at
>http://www.thrednedlestrete.com/project/Home/Home.cfm  I created it because
>I can never find anything and I was taking a web development class at
>college.  It's a find a portrait database which  will allow one to search
>not just by sitter, painter, year etc, but also by garment type /
>embellishment, it will give you a link to a museum web site for
>the portrait
>if there is one, and a list of costume books the portrait can be found on.
>It's not quite complete but you can play with the test version using a user
>name of "guest" and a password of "portraits".  Use Robert Dudley as a good
>name to see how the costume book contents comes up.  The hyperlinks right
>now only go the the National Portrait Gallery's main site, not to the
>individual portraits, but you can use the NPG number to find the right
>painting.
>
>This program has a web based admin section so I can add data to it from an
>internet connection.  I do plan on getting 16th century English
>data into it
>but time limitations will not permit a larger scope to the
>project.  I would
>however, be willing to give this program to anyone who wishes to collect
>data or to h-costume if a number of people are interested in compiling a
>resource.  More fields can be added if required.  I'm planning on
>setting up
>a check list for going through portraits to tick what types of garments are
>found so some analysis can be done.
>
>This runs on coldfusion, and I can run it on my site, but I don't
>unfortunately have the time to admister it.  If anyone as an individual or
>group is interested in using this speak up.  There is just a bit more
>tweaking to do to make it quite useable.
>
>Lisa Sinervo
>
>actually, I guess I should have said, I could administer the database but I
>would not have time to check for data accuracy especially about
>time periods
>I know little about.
>
>Lisa
>
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need thoughts on an image
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 2004 1:01 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need thoughts on an image


> >I find most interesting the possibility that Dulac was deliberately
> >calling up a Turkish or Oriental feeling, and that may be the most
> >valuable point to come out of this discussion.
>
> Turkish costume looks just like this in the early 1500s.  There's a
turban,
> an overcoat, possibly with a collar, and a button-front closure with
> 'frogging'.  I will dig for European woodcuts of Turks showing these
> elements, but I know some are in Vecellio.
>
> (Searched for half an hour, and can't find the Vecellio illustrations that
> used to be online.  I'll have to dig out Dover's woodcut history, and
> upload them to my web page.)
>
>        CarolynKayta Barrows
> dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian


Hi!
This may work better for you:
http://www.kb.se/HS/draktbok/eng/intro.htm
This was a book of costume made in the early to mid 1600s, though the
garments shown have not changed much from the previous century. Note that
the few collars shown on the men's outer coats are quite small, if they are
there at all. Wide furred collars seem to be a later development.

Extant garments:
http://www.ee.bilkent.edu.tr/~history/costume.html


I had another lovely site full of men's Turkish garments operated by one of
the Turkish museums, but it seems to be gone. :-(

Enjoy!

Sheridan




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"Julie" <jtknits@cts.com> wrote:
>This sounds wonderful.  When might it be up and running?  Everything I tried
>came up with 0.
>Thanks
>Julie
>
The database itself actually works just fine now, there may just not have been portraits that fit your search criteria.  If you search on Robert first name, Dudley last you will get a list of entries for portraits and more details if you click on a link which would then give you a link to the national portrait gallery which ownes this portrait.   Eventually it will go directly to the actual portrait of Robert Dudley.  A list of common costuming books where the portrait appears will then come up with the quality of the picture.  I though I would also add which commercial patterns are available for garments of these type.  

The data for garments and embelishments is not correct, because I needed to get the program working for my class and the acuracy of the data wasn't important.  but try searching on corset or farthingale and entries come up, occupations work but all the social classes.  I've sort of let the project slide since the semester finished but will get it completed within a month with good data, more always to be added.

Wouldn't mind if someone from other eras was interested though.... I'd love to search through medieval, victorian, etc but it is quite a bit of work..  I'd also like to add a listing for extant garments so these could be located too.

ahh......wish i had more time!

Lisa 
             
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Subject: [h-cost] Late Elizabethan-Anything besides white cuffs ever seen?
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Sorry for the cross posts.

I was wondering if any of you had come across any examples of late
Elizabethan cuffs other than white?

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late Elizabethan-Anything besides white cuffs ever seen?
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Sg,

I have approx. 6 written references to tinted starch, and can dig them up, mostly in reference to ruffs if I recall but images are scant.

Lisa Sinervo



---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date:  Tue, 22 Jun 2004 15:26:19 -0700

>Sorry for the cross posts.
>
>I was wondering if any of you had come across any examples of late
>Elizabethan cuffs other than white?
>
>_______________________________________________
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Uhm...do you mean lace cuffs in another color? Or embroidered cuffs for 
which the background fabric is another color? Or just embroidered with 
another color?
--sue

Saragrace T. Knauf wrote:

> Sorry for the cross posts.
> 
> I was wondering if any of you had come across any examples of late
> Elizabethan cuffs other than white?


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I know I am way behind on reading my e-mail but I just had to write
and say that I find the dolls and setting amazing.  The costumes look so perfect!

Thank you for sharing
Jonica
                             mailto:jlkelley@ix.netcom.com

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Late Elizabethan-Anything besides white cuffs ever seen?
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2004 18:53:47 -0700
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Any and all are great.  I am just looking for ideas...

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Sue Clemenger
> Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 2004 6:15 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late Elizabethan-Anything besides white cuffs ever
seen?
> 
> Uhm...do you mean lace cuffs in another color? Or embroidered cuffs for
> which the background fabric is another color? Or just embroidered with
> another color?
> --sue
> 

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: 'Green Hornet' uniform
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At 12:30 AM 6/21/2004, you wrote:
>Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2004 18:38:40 GMT
>From: "seamstrix@juno.com" <seamstrix@juno.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] 'Green Hornet' Uniform
>
>  Here's the word from my boyfriend, who has actually seent he thing up 
> close and personal.
>
>   IIRC...the jacket at the Patton isn't faded at all.  It's been 
> protected for years, under museum lighting and in enclosed cabinetry.  My 
> guess is that the colors may have been washed out by the flash on the 
> camera.  It's fortunate the museum still has it--it's a one-of-a-kind 
> prototype, and few surviving pictures exist of it (I can think of only 
> one, with Patton wearing it).
>
>   Now, what else do I remember of it...Colonel Patton was clearly going 
> for something that strongly resembled a classic British or German 
> lancer/hussar tunic.  However, the US Cavalry had never worn anything 
> that was so identifiably European in look...and died stillborn as a 
> result.  The Green Hornet name hung on the effort, after all, came from 
> the troops.
>
>   The uniform, as I recall Patton's intent, consisted of the helmet, 
> tunic, cavalry breeches, and riding boots.
>
>Headgear:  Gold-painted football helmet,  unmodified, from the period.  I 
>gather that some sort of radio gear would've been added over time, as 
>vehicle intercoms improved--but this one remains unmodified.
>
>The tunic:  A forest green fabric, possibly a denim, possibly a light 
>wool...this was intended to be worn on the vehicle as well as off.  It has 
>the plastron front of a Lancer-style tunic, and uses the standard gold 
>Service Dress buttons from the period.  I want to say the the jacket has 
>narrow piping applied around the front (cavalry yellow?); however, it must 
>be noted that I haven't seen the actualy jacket since my last visit there 
>in 1993 (I was attending the Armor Officer Advanced Course at Ft Knox, the 
>Patton Museum's home)
>
>Breeches:  I believe that the standard-pattern cavalry breeches of the 
>period were worn with the tunic.  I have no info as to wheter they were 
>the tan or forest green.
>
>Boots:  The russet-brown, lace-up riding boots of the 1931 pattern.
>
>   I doubt that new belts for sidearms, spare ammunition, field gear, etc 
> would've been authorized...thus, the russet-brown waist 
> belt,  russet-brown Sam Browne belt, or khaki webbed belt would likely 
> have been worn, depending on rank and type of duty.  The best single 
> source for illustrations of the boots, belts, etc,  I can think of is The 
> Horse Soldier 1776-1943 (The United States Cavalryman:  His Uniforms, 
> Accoutrements, and Equipments), Volume IV, World War I, the Peacetime 
> Army, World War II 1917-1943 by written and illustrated by Randy Steffen, 
> 1979, University of Oklahoma press (and is still available, 
> softbound).  You won't find the Green Hornet here--it was never seriously 
> considered by the Army uniform board--but you'll find the details you 
> need to complete it.
>
>   On a historical note:  George Patton only had command of the Tank 
> Corps, such as it was (a temporary, wartime setup which Congress 
> disestablished in 1920), in France during WWI.  At the time he held the 
> temporary (wartime) rank of Colonel.  This uniform dates to the 1930's, 
> and is a reminder that Patton was a career Cavalry officer.
>
>And the grips on his pistols (a .38 and a .357) are ivory, not 
>pearl--"...pearl is good for a New Orleans pimp...".  The pearl business 
>seems to have come from a reporter writing an early feature piece on him 
>and never thought to actually ask someone.  Those, I've actually held...
>


Thanks so much. If your boyfriend happens to recall which book or books 
might have the photo of Patton wearing the uniform I would appreciate it. 
I'll look for the book he does recommend.

Thank him for his time and effort.

Pierre


"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Late Elizabethan-Anything besides white cuffs ever seen?
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http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/wardrobe/FasoloFamily.JPG

Italian

De



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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: M Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late Elizabethan-Anything besides white cuffs ever seen?
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Hey there...  "yellow ruffs" there were also pink, blue and IIRC 
lilac.  This was a late innovation.  Brought into England initially from 
France.  Moralists of the day linked it to the ills of the court of James 
in England - so you're looking at post Elizabethan - about the 1610s+ .  In 
<http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0521781027/ref=wl_it_dp/103-3241615-0000628?%5Fencoding=UTF8&coliid=I186OMDC56TCUH&colid=3OBXIW6A340SD>Renaissance 
Clothing and the Materials of Memory (CAMBRIDGE STUDIES IN RENAISSANCE 
LITERATURE AND CULTURE) by Ann Rosalind Jones
there is a whole chapter on the topic of tinted linen.

Bridgette

>Sg,
>
>I have approx. 6 written references to tinted starch, and can dig them up, 
>mostly in reference to ruffs if I recall but images are scant.
>
>Lisa Sinervo
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These are great!  I have never seen either site.  Thanks!

> 
> Hi!
> This may work better for you:
> http://www.kb.se/HS/draktbok/eng/intro.htm
> This was a book of costume made in the early to mid 1600s, though the
> garments shown have not changed much from the previous century. Note that
> the few collars shown on the men's outer coats are quite small, if they
are
> there at all. Wide furred collars seem to be a later development.
> 
> Extant garments:
> http://www.ee.bilkent.edu.tr/~history/costume.html
> 
> 
> I had another lovely site full of men's Turkish garments operated by one
of
> the Turkish museums, but it seems to be gone. :-(
> 
> Enjoy!
> 
> Sheridan
> 
> 
> 
> 
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jun 23 10:31:40 2004
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From: "Tessalina K" <nauzimapup@hotmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: What I (Will Do) On My Holidays (Lena Strid)
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I will be trying to finish my hand-sewn 18th century pair of stays.  I have 
been working on them for four years now, all thanks to me trying to to be 
"authentic".  It takes lots of time to sew in each individual reed and then 
sew on the chamois binding, especially when you are going to college full 
time and working 20 hours per week!

The pair of stays are my main goal but I am also planning on "fixing" my 
18th century chemise, and saving up money to get some authentic cloth for my 
18th century "camp follower" costume.

Be well,
Tessalina

_________________________________________________________________
Watch the online reality show Mixed Messages with a friend and enter to win 
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From: "Saragrace T. Knauf" <saragrace@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Late Elizabethan-Anything besides white cuffs ever seen?
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2004 08:14:49 -0700
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Thank you!  This was the chapter I had been trying to remember to tell Lisa
about a few years ago.. I can't recall if I had ever found it for her.  .I
will have to reread it.  
> 
> Hey there...  "yellow ruffs" there were also pink, blue and IIRC
> lilac.  This was a late innovation.  Brought into England initially from
> France.  Moralists of the day linked it to the ills of the court of James
> in England - so you're looking at post Elizabethan - about the 1610s+ .
In
>
<http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0521781027/ref=wl_it_dp/103-
> 3241615-
> 0000628?%5Fencoding=UTF8&coliid=I186OMDC56TCUH&colid=3OBXIW6A340S
> D>Renaissance
> Clothing and the Materials of Memory (CAMBRIDGE STUDIES IN RENAISSANCE
> LITERATURE AND CULTURE) by Ann Rosalind Jones
> there is a whole chapter on the topic of tinted linen.

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Late Elizabethan-Anything besides white cuffs ever seen?
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Italian is fine too!  Thanks!

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of otsisto
> Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 2004 2:00 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Late Elizabethan-Anything besides white cuffs ever
seen?
> 
> http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/wardrobe/FasoloFamily.JPG
> 
> Italian
> 
> De
> 
> 
> 
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Subject: [h-cost] Source for paisley shawls
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I just stumbled across this website:

http://www.crescentmoonfibers.com/Fashion_Shawls.asp

I haven't actually seen any of the shawls, but the illos look interesting.

Fran
Lavolta Press
Two new books with 1870s and 1880s clothing patterns!
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Off-topic---mugs
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Does anyone know good online sources for functional tea/coffee mugs with 
historic pictures (fine art, tapestries, costumes) or looking kind of 
historic?  Almost any period acceptable right now.  I'm not looking for 
authenticity, just for something that doesn't look modern and tacky.  I 
am looking for ceramic, porcelain, or china--not pewter, silver, wood, 
or leather.  Also, no lead glazes.

Suggestions greatly appreciated.  My husband just dropped my favorite 
mug and we only have two left.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Off-topic---mugs
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Fran, in Seattle is a shop called the Perennial Tea Room Inc.  It's a
gallery of fine teas, teapots and gifts.  *Gorgeous* teapots and cups.
Their address is: 1910 Post Alley, Seattle, WA 98101-1015 and phone is
206-448-4054.  Web page for cups is
http://perennialtearoom.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=56

Many universities have mugs and coffee cups with pictures.  Maybe even if
you go to almost any Chamber of Commerce webpages, they might have 'gift
galleries' web links for stores that have mugs with pictures (historic or
otherwise) specific to their town.

Best of luck!  (good thing there's not 7 years bad luck to go with the
breakage!)

Slán go fóill
Emer

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lavolta Press" <fran@lavoltapress.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 2004 6:20 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Off-topic---mugs


> Does anyone know good online sources for functional tea/coffee mugs with
> historic pictures (fine art, tapestries, costumes) or looking kind of
> historic?  Almost any period acceptable right now.  I'm not looking for
> authenticity, just for something that doesn't look modern and tacky.  I
> am looking for ceramic, porcelain, or china--not pewter, silver, wood,
> or leather.  Also, no lead glazes.
>
> Suggestions greatly appreciated.  My husband just dropped my favorite
> mug and we only have two left.
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press Books on Costuming
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jun 23 21:59:46 2004
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Thanks, I will check it out.

The idea of a "Medieval/Renaissance" pottery goblet definitely has its 
appeal, too, as long as the shape is OK for tea.

Fran

Gia wrote:

>Fran, in Seattle is a shop called the Perennial Tea Room Inc.  It's a
>gallery of fine teas, teapots and gifts.  *Gorgeous* teapots and cups.
>Their address is: 1910 Post Alley, Seattle, WA 98101-1015 and phone is
>206-448-4054.  Web page for cups is
>http://perennialtearoom.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=56
>
>Many universities have mugs and coffee cups with pictures.  Maybe even if
>you go to almost any Chamber of Commerce webpages, they might have 'gift
>galleries' web links for stores that have mugs with pictures (historic or
>otherwise) specific to their town.
>
>Best of luck!  (good thing there's not 7 years bad luck to go with the
>breakage!)
>
>Slán go fóill
>Emer
>
>----- Original Message ----- 
>From: "Lavolta Press" <fran@lavoltapress.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 2004 6:20 PM
>Subject: [h-cost] Off-topic---mugs
>
>
>  
>
>>Does anyone know good online sources for functional tea/coffee mugs with
>>historic pictures (fine art, tapestries, costumes) or looking kind of
>>historic?  Almost any period acceptable right now.  I'm not looking for
>>authenticity, just for something that doesn't look modern and tacky.  I
>>am looking for ceramic, porcelain, or china--not pewter, silver, wood,
>>or leather.  Also, no lead glazes.
>>
>>Suggestions greatly appreciated.  My husband just dropped my favorite
>>mug and we only have two left.
>>
>>Fran
>>Lavolta Press Books on Costuming
>>http://www.lavoltapress.com
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>    
>>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>  
>
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jun 23 22:50:14 2004
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At 07:03 PM 6/23/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>The idea of a "Medieval/Renaissance" pottery goblet definitely has its 
>appeal, too, as long as the shape is OK for tea.
>
>Fran


Fran,

You may be able to find an artisan to make a set for you, with a matching 
tea pot as well. Take a look locally at ceramic shops and 
art/Renaissance/craft faires to see if someone makes sets that appeal to 
your sense of beauty.

Kimiko


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There is a place called www.vannessstudios.com I am looking at for 
custom work in "Drinking Vesals,", but if I could get something like 
that ready made it would be faster.

Thanks,

Fran

Kimiko Small wrote:

> At 07:03 PM 6/23/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>
>> The idea of a "Medieval/Renaissance" pottery goblet definitely has 
>> its appeal, too, as long as the shape is OK for tea.
>>
>> Fran
>
>
>
> Fran,
>
> You may be able to find an artisan to make a set for you, with a 
> matching tea pot as well. Take a look locally at ceramic shops and 
> art/Renaissance/craft faires to see if someone makes sets that appeal 
> to your sense of beauty.
>
> Kimiko
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
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have you thought to check with museum gift shops?  seems to me I
remember some very interesting ones at the Smithsonian gift shop (10
years ago) and I'm sure my daughter has a couple with works of art on
them.   I'll ask her about that if this interests you.  Kitty



Lavolta Press wrote:
> 
> Does anyone know good online sources for functional tea/coffee mugs with
> historic pictures (fine art, tapestries, costumes) or looking kind of
> historic?  Almost any period acceptable right now.  I'm not looking for
> authenticity, just for something that doesn't look modern and tacky.  I
> am looking for ceramic, porcelain, or china--not pewter, silver, wood,
> or leather.  Also, no lead glazes.
> 
> Suggestions greatly appreciated.  My husband just dropped my favorite
> mug and we only have two left.
> 
> Fran
> Lavolta Press Books on Costuming
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Off-topic---mugs
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Pillaged Village sells ceramic mugs with dragons and Celtic knotwork. http://www.pillagevillage.com/

Sur La Table has some mugs that are decorated with an Italian pattern.  http://www.surlatable.com/index.cfm?slt_sourceid=00390750034849027977

The store at the Met has a few arty ones.  http://www.metmuseum.org/store/index.asp

Crate and Barrel has simple styles in lots of colors.  http://www.crateandbarrel.com/

Janet
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> At 07:03 PM 6/23/2004 -0700, you wrote:
> >The idea of a "Medieval/Renaissance" pottery goblet definitely has its
> >appeal, too, as long as the shape is OK for tea.
> >
> >Fran
>
>
> Fran,
>
> You may be able to find an artisan to make a set for you, with a matching
> tea pot as well. Take a look locally at ceramic shops and
> art/Renaissance/craft faires to see if someone makes sets that appeal to
> your sense of beauty.
>
> Kimiko


Another option is to check out your local art school/college/university.
Often you can get the students to make you what you want for a very
reasonable fee, or you can catch a student sale. I have gotten some
wonderful original art and glass this way.

Sheridan


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Need thoughts on an image
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 00:18:31 -0500
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Just a thought. Could the image be of a Polish scholar? 
http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/patterns/comingsoon.html
This is what made me wonder. Look at the Giermak and the Delia patterns.

De


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On Wed, 23 Jun 2004, Gia wrote:

> Many universities have mugs and coffee cups with pictures.  Maybe even
> if you go to almost any Chamber of Commerce webpages, they might have
> 'gift galleries' web links for stores that have mugs with pictures
> (historic or otherwise) specific to their town.

Maybe too modern for Fran's taste, but on a similar line: My prized coffee
mugs are the ones I've bought at museum shops. I try to pick up a mug at
every museum or arts institution I visit -- it's a good thing a lot of
them don't sell mugs or I wouldn't have any kitchen space left ;-)  I put
up a display shelf for some of them just this week, having just returned
home from a trip with two more mugs (the Milwaukee Art Museum and the
Milwaukee Public Museum) and finding no more room in the mug cabinet.

I have maybe eight from the DC area, where I used to live, including such
gems as the National Building Museum, the National Postal Museum, the
Library of Congress, the National Air & Space Museum, the Kennedy Center,
the Folger Library, and Arena Stage. Many others from around the U.S.,
plus a couple from Madrid, one from St.-Denis, one or two from London
(though alas my National Opera mug broke). I have no mugs from Belgium or
from the Paris museums, to my annoyance, as I saw none at the shops there.
(Lots of Mona Lisa mugs, but nothing that actually said "Louvre" on it.)

I will only collect mugs from my own trips; if I allowed friends to buy
them for me I'd fill the kitchen in no time!

Unrelated to these, I have two mugs with illustrations from the Luttrell
Psalter, and two more with illustrations from the Bayeux Tapestry. These
came from the Past Times catalog out of England (though actually I think I
bought mine at the Past Times shop on a trip there, which means it was at
least 11 or 12 years ago).

--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] Coated metal boning in Europe??
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Hi,

I wonder if anyone nows a place where I can buy coated metal boning for 
hoopskirts in Europe?

Greetings,
        Deredere


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: "J.E. Marshall" <jemarshall@fuse.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Need thoughts on an image
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I don't believe that it is a pattern for a scholar, but for a noble and 
common man.  In Poland ( the early years Before 1430 if I remember 
correctly), any male who owned land no matter how much was considered part 
of the nobility.  Titles of Duke, Earl, Count etc did not exist there 
during the SCA time period.  From the research that I have tried to do, the 
Delia and Giermak patterns are earlier clothes for men and the Kontusz and 
Zupan are later clothes.  The Turkish influence on the later clothes was 
due to all of the battles with the Turks in Hungary.

Jennifer

At 12:18 AM 6/24/04 -0500, you wrote:
>Just a thought. Could the image be of a Polish scholar?
>http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/patterns/comingsoon.html
>This is what made me wonder. Look at the Giermak and the Delia patterns.
>
>De
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


If you are squeamish, don't prod the beach rubble.
                                 Sappho 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: database for  central repository - really
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I can do some helping with 18th century English costumes and a little 
with French.  I can vet data and find images, but do not have the 
capacity to post images or host a page.

David

By-the-by: 
Have you all see the simply incredible book about the collection at the 
Kyoto Costume Institute?

245 line:  Fashion : the collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute : a 
history from the 18th to the 20th century
260 line:  Koln ; New York : Taschen, c2002






	



lisa-list wrote:

>actually, I guess I should have said, I could administer the database but I
>would not have time to check for data accuracy especially about time periods
>I know little about.
>
>Lisa
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: lisa-list [mailto:lisa-list@thrednedlestrete.com]
>Sent: Monday, June 21, 2004 5:56 PM
>To: Historical Costume
>Subject: database for central repository - really
>
>
>Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
>
>  
>
>>How much the lack of filtering for "accuracy" matters depends on what
>>    
>>
>information you are collecting.  I think, for example, that a collection of
>images of period art, organized by country of origin and approximate date,
>would be an excellent resource, even though (especially?) it would require
>people to do additional research elsewhere to get the maximum benefit out of
>it.
>
>I have a little program almost through development at
>http://www.thrednedlestrete.com/project/Home/Home.cfm  I created it because
>I can never find anything and I was taking a web development class at
>college.  It's a find a portrait database which  will allow one to search
>not just by sitter, painter, year etc, but also by garment type /
>embellishment, it will give you a link to a museum web site for the portrait
>if there is one, and a list of costume books the portrait can be found on.
>It's not quite complete but you can play with the test version using a user
>name of "guest" and a password of "portraits".  Use Robert Dudley as a good
>name to see how the costume book contents comes up.  The hyperlinks right
>now only go the the National Portrait Gallery's main site, not to the
>individual portraits, but you can use the NPG number to find the right
>painting.
>
>This program has a web based admin section so I can add data to it from an
>internet connection.  I do plan on getting 16th century English data into it
>but time limitations will not permit a larger scope to the project.  I would
>however, be willing to give this program to anyone who wishes to collect
>data or to h-costume if a number of people are interested in compiling a
>resource.  More fields can be added if required.  I'm planning on setting up
>a check list for going through portraits to tick what types of garments are
>found so some analysis can be done.
>
>This runs on coldfusion, and I can run it on my site, but I don't
>unfortunately have the time to admister it.  If anyone as an individual or
>group is interested in using this speak up.  There is just a bit more
>tweaking to do to make it quite useable.
>
>Lisa Sinervo
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>  
>

-- 
David Serxner
NCSU Libraries Acquisitions Dept.
Serials and Electronic Resources
Campus Box 7111
Raleigh, NC  27695-7111
919-513-3355 office
919-515-7292 fax

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jun 24 09:05:48 2004
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From: "lisa-list" <lisa-list@thrednedlestrete.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE: database for  central repository - really
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What I can do is finish up this program and then give interested parties web
access to enter the data so that hosting isn't a problem and anyone online
can search the contents.  Anyone who wish to be responsible for adding data
may have a copy of the database for their future use too and the program if
they so desire.  I'll take this off list with David but will give an
announcement when good data is online.

Lisa

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of David Serxner
Sent: Thursday, June 24, 2004 5:21 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: database for central repository - really


I can do some helping with 18th century English costumes and a little
with French.  I can vet data and find images, but do not have the
capacity to post images or host a page.

David

By-the-by:
Have you all see the simply incredible book about the collection at the
Kyoto Costume Institute?

245 line:  Fashion : the collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute : a
history from the 18th to the 20th century
260 line:  Koln ; New York : Taschen, c2002










lisa-list wrote:

>actually, I guess I should have said, I could administer the database but I
>would not have time to check for data accuracy especially about time
periods
>I know little about.
>
>Lisa
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: lisa-list [mailto:lisa-list@thrednedlestrete.com]
>Sent: Monday, June 21, 2004 5:56 PM
>To: Historical Costume
>Subject: database for central repository - really
>
>
>Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
>
>
>
>>How much the lack of filtering for "accuracy" matters depends on what
>>
>>
>information you are collecting.  I think, for example, that a collection of
>images of period art, organized by country of origin and approximate date,
>would be an excellent resource, even though (especially?) it would require
>people to do additional research elsewhere to get the maximum benefit out
of
>it.
>
>I have a little program almost through development at
>http://www.thrednedlestrete.com/project/Home/Home.cfm  I created it because
>I can never find anything and I was taking a web development class at
>college.  It's a find a portrait database which  will allow one to search
>not just by sitter, painter, year etc, but also by garment type /
>embellishment, it will give you a link to a museum web site for the
portrait
>if there is one, and a list of costume books the portrait can be found on.
>It's not quite complete but you can play with the test version using a user
>name of "guest" and a password of "portraits".  Use Robert Dudley as a good
>name to see how the costume book contents comes up.  The hyperlinks right
>now only go the the National Portrait Gallery's main site, not to the
>individual portraits, but you can use the NPG number to find the right
>painting.
>
>This program has a web based admin section so I can add data to it from an
>internet connection.  I do plan on getting 16th century English data into
it
>but time limitations will not permit a larger scope to the project.  I
would
>however, be willing to give this program to anyone who wishes to collect
>data or to h-costume if a number of people are interested in compiling a
>resource.  More fields can be added if required.  I'm planning on setting
up
>a check list for going through portraits to tick what types of garments are
>found so some analysis can be done.
>
>This runs on coldfusion, and I can run it on my site, but I don't
>unfortunately have the time to admister it.  If anyone as an individual or
>group is interested in using this speak up.  There is just a bit more
>tweaking to do to make it quite useable.
>
>Lisa Sinervo
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>

--
David Serxner
NCSU Libraries Acquisitions Dept.
Serials and Electronic Resources
Campus Box 7111
Raleigh, NC  27695-7111
919-513-3355 office
919-515-7292 fax

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume



_______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jun 24 09:21:55 2004
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Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 09:19:29 -0400
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Off-topic---mugs
From: ruthanne baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Also don't forget your local GoodWill, consignment, and antique shops, if
you don't need a lot of cups all at once and don't need them to match.
Lovely things show up, all the way from authentic 19th-c china (or earlier
in the  case of the antique shops, but that means $$$ of course!) to
modern-made but period-looking souvenirs, and depending on the shop and the
actual item the prices can be as low as $1. I've seen some very charming
things, including those "To a Friend" and "As A Gift" turn-of-the-century
teacups (which aren't always pricey) as well as scenic illustrations and
floral designs. If you have the time and ability to shop locally you're
supporting a local merchant and can hold the product in your hands before
buying it; the time you spend on foot might not be any more than the time
you'd wait for UPS.  Just a thought!

Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer


 6/23/04 10:42 PM, Kimiko Small at kimiko@kimiko1.com wrote:

> At 07:03 PM 6/23/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>> The idea of a "Medieval/Renaissance" pottery goblet definitely has its
>> appeal, too, as long as the shape is OK for tea.
>> 
>> Fran
> 
> 
> Fran,
> 
> You may be able to find an artisan to make a set for you, with a matching
> tea pot as well. Take a look locally at ceramic shops and
> art/Renaissance/craft faires to see if someone makes sets that appeal to
> your sense of beauty.
> 
> Kimiko
> 
> 
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From: "lisa-list" <lisa-list@thrednedlestrete.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: message for David - RE: [h-cost] RE: database for central repository
	- really
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 06:46:10 -0700
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Thanks for your offer to help.  I don't seem to be able to pick up your
email address, would you care to email me directly at
Lisa@thrednedlestrete.com.

Lisa

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of David Serxner
Sent: Thursday, June 24, 2004 5:21 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: database for central repository - really


I can do some helping with 18th century English costumes and a little
with French.  I can vet data and find images, but do not have the
capacity to post images or host a page.

David

By-the-by:
Have you all see the simply incredible book about the collection at the
Kyoto Costume Institute?

245 line:  Fashion : the collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute : a
history from the 18th to the 20th century
260 line:  Koln ; New York : Taschen, c2002










lisa-list wrote:

>actually, I guess I should have said, I could administer the database but I
>would not have time to check for data accuracy especially about time
periods
>I know little about.
>
>Lisa
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: lisa-list [mailto:lisa-list@thrednedlestrete.com]
>Sent: Monday, June 21, 2004 5:56 PM
>To: Historical Costume
>Subject: database for central repository - really
>
>
>Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
>
>
>
>>How much the lack of filtering for "accuracy" matters depends on what
>>
>>
>information you are collecting.  I think, for example, that a collection of
>images of period art, organized by country of origin and approximate date,
>would be an excellent resource, even though (especially?) it would require
>people to do additional research elsewhere to get the maximum benefit out
of
>it.
>
>I have a little program almost through development at
>http://www.thrednedlestrete.com/project/Home/Home.cfm  I created it because
>I can never find anything and I was taking a web development class at
>college.  It's a find a portrait database which  will allow one to search
>not just by sitter, painter, year etc, but also by garment type /
>embellishment, it will give you a link to a museum web site for the
portrait
>if there is one, and a list of costume books the portrait can be found on.
>It's not quite complete but you can play with the test version using a user
>name of "guest" and a password of "portraits".  Use Robert Dudley as a good
>name to see how the costume book contents comes up.  The hyperlinks right
>now only go the the National Portrait Gallery's main site, not to the
>individual portraits, but you can use the NPG number to find the right
>painting.
>
>This program has a web based admin section so I can add data to it from an
>internet connection.  I do plan on getting 16th century English data into
it
>but time limitations will not permit a larger scope to the project.  I
would
>however, be willing to give this program to anyone who wishes to collect
>data or to h-costume if a number of people are interested in compiling a
>resource.  More fields can be added if required.  I'm planning on setting
up
>a check list for going through portraits to tick what types of garments are
>found so some analysis can be done.
>
>This runs on coldfusion, and I can run it on my site, but I don't
>unfortunately have the time to admister it.  If anyone as an individual or
>group is interested in using this speak up.  There is just a bit more
>tweaking to do to make it quite useable.
>
>Lisa Sinervo
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
>

--
David Serxner
NCSU Libraries Acquisitions Dept.
Serials and Electronic Resources
Campus Box 7111
Raleigh, NC  27695-7111
919-513-3355 office
919-515-7292 fax

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jun 24 10:44:00 2004
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Hi I am new to the list but I hear there are some seriously good researchers 
here and I need some help.

I am looking for images of the actual garment and or line drawings of the 
pieces of the Charles the VI of France pourpoint. All I have is the front 
photo and a tiny photo of it on a dummy and I would really like to see some 
detail so I came make a nice reproduction.

Anything you guys may have on this garment would help me out.

Thanks
James

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You mean this?
http://www.cottesimple.com/blois_and_sleeves/elbow_hinge/elbow_hinge.htm
http://www.cottesimple.com/blois_and_sleeves/grande_assiette/grande_assiette_overview.htm
Greetrings,
        Deredere

james barker wrote:

> Hi I am new to the list but I hear there are some seriously good 
> researchers here and I need some help.
>
> I am looking for images of the actual garment and or line drawings of 
> the pieces of the Charles the VI of France pourpoint. All I have is 
> the front photo and a tiny photo of it on a dummy and I would really 
> like to see some detail so I came make a nice reproduction.
>
> Anything you guys may have on this garment would help me out.
>
> Thanks
> James
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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Actully I mean this one 
http://www.forest.gen.nz/Medieval/articles/garments/charlesVI/charlesVIL.jpg
It's an arming coat worn over armor.

I have lots of information on the Charles de Blois coat. I should have been 
clearer about that sorry.

Thanks
James







From: Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for info on the Charles the VI pourpoint
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 15:22:10 +0200

You mean this?
http://www.cottesimple.com/blois_and_sleeves/elbow_hinge/elbow_hinge.htm
http://www.cottesimple.com/blois_and_sleeves/grande_assiette/grande_assiette_overview.htm
Greetrings,
        Deredere

james barker wrote:

>Hi I am new to the list but I hear there are some seriously good 
>researchers here and I need some help.
>
>I am looking for images of the actual garment and or line drawings of the 
>pieces of the Charles the VI of France pourpoint. All I have is the front 
>photo and a tiny photo of it on a dummy and I would really like to see some 
>detail so I came make a nice reproduction.
>
>Anything you guys may have on this garment would help me out.
>
>Thanks
>James
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>MSN Movies - Trailers, showtimes, DVD's, and the latest news from 
>Hollywood! http://movies.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200509ave/direct/01/
>
>_______________________________________________
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>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Off-topic---mugs
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I used to have both the Unicorn mugs (there were two) and the Bayeaux 
tapestry mug, and several other nice museum/art mugs, including some 
Tudor and William Morris textile designs.  I also once had a set of 
lovely stoneware mugs, shaped like a low-footed goblet with a handle.  
Unfortunately all our mugs take heavy use, get scratched and 
perma-stained on the inside, and then get broken after a year or so.  I 
figure they're ephemeral, but haven't been finding any I like lately.  
BTW, I don't know why the Costume Society of America doesn't do a 
costume/textile mug et as a fundraiser.

But I just had a really obvious idea for maybe finding some of the mugs 
I used to have  . . . eBay. 

Fran

>
>Unrelated to these, I have two mugs with illustrations from the Luttrell
>Psalter, and two more with illustrations from the Bayeux Tapestry. These
>came from the Past Times catalog out of England (though actually I think I
>bought mine at the Past Times shop on a trip there, which means it was at
>least 11 or 12 years ago).
>
>--Robin
>
>
>  
>
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There's also Cafe Press -- find an (out of copyright) image you want on 
a mug, convert it to their format (easy, if you have photoshop or 
similar) open your own store, voila.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

Re-defeat G.W. Bush in 2004!
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Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 11:32:36 -0700
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Subject: [h-cost] Sources for fine art mugs including William Morris textile
	decoration
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Six William Morris textile designs:
http://charlesrupert.com/gifts/mugs.html

Fine art images:
http://www.classicouk.com/finartmug.htm

Reproductions of ancient Greek vessels:
http://www.hellenic-art.com/pottery/amphora.htm
http://www.eleganza.com/vase-greek-gallery/1-01-ancient-greek-pottery.html

I don't know what I'd do with any of the Greek ones but I liked them.

Fran
Lavolta Press
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Subject: [h-cost] And 6 Bayeux Tapestry mugs,
 4 Luttrell Psalter mugs & 4 Celtic design mugs
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http://www.msmugs.com/acatalog/Mclaggan_Smith_Mugs_Heritage_14.html
http://www.msmugs.com/acatalog/Mclaggan_Smith_Mugs_Celtic_28.html
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From: "Kate Pinner" <pinner@mccc.edu>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Off-topic---mugs
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 14:48:19 -0400
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When I was in Boston I saw neat shop in the ground level of Fanuiel Hall
with lots of tea cups. Don't remember the name tho.

Kate
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 2004 9:21 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Off-topic---mugs

Does anyone know good online sources for functional tea/coffee mugs with

historic pictures (fine art, tapestries, costumes) or looking kind of 
historic?  Almost any period acceptable right now.  I'm not looking for 
authenticity, just for something that doesn't look modern and tacky.  I 
am looking for ceramic, porcelain, or china--not pewter, silver, wood, 
or leather.  Also, no lead glazes.

Suggestions greatly appreciated.  My husband just dropped my favorite 
mug and we only have two left.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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James - this link should give you more pictures and information: 

http://www.mallet-argent.com/chartres.html

HTH,
Vicki

>Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 11:48:16 -0400
>From: "james barker" <flonzy@hotmail.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for info on the Charles the VI pourpoint
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Message-ID: <BAY14-F242MZ6L1zwBz000e60ad@hotmail.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
>
>Actully I mean this one 
>http://www.forest.gen.nz/Medieval/articles/garments/charlesVI/charlesVIL.jpg
>It's an arming coat worn over armor.
>
>I have lots of information on the Charles de Blois coat. I should have been 
>clearer about that sorry.
>
>Thanks
>James



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From: "Helen  Pinto" <hpinto@mindspring.com>
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References: <BAY14-F21mrVBzQAA7Z000e55ff@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for info on the Charles the VI pourpoint
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It's not Charles VI, but close- Charles de Blois.  There's a decent picture,
plus a graphic of the pattern pieces.
Hope this helps,
               -Helen/Aidan

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "james barker" <flonzy@hotmail.com>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 24, 2004 10:36 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Looking for info on the Charles the VI pourpoint


> Hi I am new to the list but I hear there are some seriously good
researchers
> here and I need some help.
>
> I am looking for images of the actual garment and or line drawings of the
> pieces of the Charles the VI of France pourpoint. All I have is the front
> photo and a tiny photo of it on a dummy and I would really like to see
some
> detail so I came make a nice reproduction.
>
> Anything you guys may have on this garment would help me out.
>
> Thanks
> James
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jun 24 16:24:13 2004
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I just received a request asking for images of American bathing/swimming 
dress in the 19th century, the earlier the better. I recall seeing 
plenty for the last years of the century but not much before then. I 
don't recall any from Godey's in the mid-century years that I'm most 
familiar with. Does anyone have any references or images (online, 
preferably) to any?

Thanks.

- Hope

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Jun 24 18:50:11 2004
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Subject: [h-cost] More William Morris textile type mugs
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http://www.chinawithcharm.com/ 

They have a set of six Dunoon (brand) mugs they call "Arts and Crafts"  
in small floral William Morris type designs.   They also have a large 
selection of the pink-roses type of mugs and teapots.

I'm about finished buying mugs, and this is getting off topic.  However, 
I also want to replace all the china (dinnerware) with an Arts & Crafts 
or Art Nouveau design. (We seem to be hard on the china around here.) 
Currently we have light brown plain Heath stoneware which is OK, but I 
would like something with some sort ofArts & Crafts or Art Nouveau  
design, not too loud or busy.  If anyone wants to email me with 
suggestions for brands/design names, or sources, feel free.  For that 
matter I wouldn't mind Arts & Crafts or Art Nouveau style stainless 
steel flatware.

Thanks to everyone who helped in the Great Mug Hunt.

Fran
http://www.lavoltapress.com


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http://www.agelesspatterns.com/71_Swimwearx.html
http://www.agelesspatterns.com/70_Swimwearx.html


>From: Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] bathing dress
>Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 16:22:28 -0400
>
>I just received a request asking for images of American bathing/swimming 
>dress in the 19th century, the earlier the better. I recall seeing plenty 
>for the last years of the century but not much before then. I don't recall 
>any from Godey's in the mid-century years that I'm most familiar with. Does 
>anyone have any references or images (online, preferably) to any?
>
>Thanks.
>
>- Hope
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Off-topic---mugs
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Lavolta Press" <fran@lavoltapress.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 24, 2004 11:20 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Off-topic---mugs


> Does anyone know good online sources for functional tea/coffee mugs with
> historic pictures (fine art, tapestries, costumes) or looking kind of
> historic?  Almost any period acceptable right now.  I'm not looking for
> authenticity, just for something that doesn't look modern and tacky.  I
> am looking for ceramic, porcelain, or china--not pewter, silver, wood,
> or leather.  Also, no lead glazes.
>
> Suggestions greatly appreciated.  My husband just dropped my favorite
> mug and we only have two left.
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press Books on Costuming
> http://www.lavoltapress.com

Well if the not blatantly modern issue is for events I use plain coloured
mugs from the supermarket, people rarely see my mug (it stays in my tent
till fairly late in the evening & then I have 1 hot drink before bed) & I
figure it doesn't really stick out as modern like most of my others (which
have teddybears or Xmas scenes etc.)
HTH
Elizabeth

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Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 21:49:20 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>, h-costume@net.indra.com
From: Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for info on the Charles the VI pourpoint
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At 10:36 AM -0400 6/24/04, james barker wrote:
>Hi I am new to the list but I hear there are 
>some seriously good researchers here and I need 
>some help.
>
>I am looking for images of the actual garment 
>and or line drawings of the pieces of the 
>Charles the VI of France pourpoint. All I have 
>is the front photo and a tiny photo of it on a 
>dummy and I would really like to see some detail 
>so I came make a nice reproduction.

This garment is annoyingly elusive in the 
literature.  I've only personally seen a photo of 
it in:

Le coton et la mode - 1000 ans d'aventures. 
2000.  Musée Galliera, musee de la ville de Paris.

My notes on it (since I wasn't able to buy the copy I saw it in) are:

p.19 - pourpoint de Charles VI le Bien-Aimé, 
dernier quart du XIVe siecle, Chartres, musee des 
Beaux-Arts, cat no 7 [of this exhibition - the 
museum inventory no is 2895], lampas de soie 
rouge, matière de renbourrage, coton; H 69cm

red looks like silk monochrome brocade, quilted 
vertically, scalloping at hem, sleeves have very 
shallow inset, buttoned up front, wadded with 
cotton

I've also been pointed to (but haven't had a chance to look up):

Schoeffer-Masson, Marie.  1998   'Le pourpoint dr 
Charles de Bloix daté  d'avant 1364. Remarques, 
comparaison et restauration; in Interdisciplinary 
Approach about Studies and Conservation of 
Medieval Textiles, Actes du congrès ICOM du 
comité de conservation, Palerme, 1998.

And someone told me that one of the cutting 
diagrams in Harmand is this garment, but I 
haven't taken the time to correlate it precisely. 
Harmand is:

Harmand, Adrien.  1929.  Jeanne d'Arc: ses 
costumes, son armure.  Lib. Ernest Leroux, Paris.

(Be aware that many of the cutting diagrams in 
Harmand are speculative, rather than being taken 
from actual garments.)

And that's all I've been able to track down so far.

Heather
-- 
****
Heather Rose Jones
heather.jones@earthlink.net
****

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>, h-costume@net.indra.com
From: Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for info on the Charles the VI pourpoint
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At 10:36 AM -0400 6/24/04, james barker wrote:
>Hi I am new to the list but I hear there are 
>some seriously good researchers here and I need 
>some help.
>
>I am looking for images of the actual garment 
>and or line drawings of the pieces of the 
>Charles the VI of France pourpoint. All I have 
>is the front photo and a tiny photo of it on a 
>dummy and I would really like to see some detail 
>so I came make a nice reproduction.

This garment is annoyingly elusive in the 
literature.  I've only personally seen a photo of 
it in:

Le coton et la mode - 1000 ans d'aventures. 
2000.  Musée Galliera, musee de la ville de Paris.

My notes on it (since I wasn't able to buy the copy I saw it in) are:

p.19 - pourpoint de Charles VI le Bien-Aimé, 
dernier quart du XIVe siecle, Chartres, musee des 
Beaux-Arts, cat no 7 [of this exhibition - the 
museum inventory no is 2895], lampas de soie 
rouge, matière de renbourrage, coton; H 69cm

red looks like silk monochrome brocade, quilted 
vertically, scalloping at hem, sleeves have very 
shallow inset, buttoned up front, wadded with 
cotton

I've also been pointed to (but haven't had a chance to look up):

Schoeffer-Masson, Marie.  1998   'Le pourpoint dr 
Charles de Bloix daté  d'avant 1364. Remarques, 
comparaison et restauration; in Interdisciplinary 
Approach about Studies and Conservation of 
Medieval Textiles, Actes du congrès ICOM du 
comité de conservation, Palerme, 1998.

And someone told me that one of the cutting 
diagrams in Harmand is this garment, but I 
haven't taken the time to correlate it precisely. 
Harmand is:

Harmand, Adrien.  1929.  Jeanne d'Arc: ses 
costumes, son armure.  Lib. Ernest Leroux, Paris.

(Be aware that many of the cutting diagrams in 
Harmand are speculative, rather than being taken 
from actual garments.)

And that's all I've been able to track down so far.

Heather
-- 
****
Heather Rose Jones
heather.jones@earthlink.net
****

_______________________________________________
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From: "Molly Boone" <Rampant_Peacock@comcast.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] What I (Will Do) On My Holidays
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 22:20:42 -0700
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I'm working on:
 ...a wedding dress and 4 bridesmaids gowns to go with.

 ...Perfecting my cavalier hat pattern 

 ...A new costume or 2 for my shrinking figure

 ...finishing my webpage so I can share with the rest.

 ...Trying to stay sane

Molly
 ~There is a fine line between 'hobby' and 'mental illness'.
      I tripped over it a few years back



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Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2004 11:28:56 -0400
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Off-topic---mugs
From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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My favorite mugs come from Monroe Saltworks:
http://www.monroesaltworks.com/default.asp
Chunky, utilitarian, beautiful -- I think William Morris would have USED
these if they'd been available to him! ;-)

If, on the other hand, you would like mugs that do have some historical
applications, but are still sweet to the modern eye, check out
http://www.hendersonsredware.com, especially the "North Devon Sgraffito
Mugs" on this page: http://www.hendersonsredware.com/redware.htm
and the stuff under "limited editions". I recently bought a couple of giant
black-glazed mugs to address my hydration problem at outdoor summer events
and to keep my linen warp damp when I'm doing a weaving demo, and they've
crept rather swiftly into everyday use. They are well-made and surprisingly
durable, given the usual friability of redware.

Enjoy! Buy them all!
Lauren


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Hi Deredere,

My suggestion would be contact "Devine Supplies" they don't have a website as far as I know, and you have to buy in quantity but they have good prices.

57a Brightwell Avenue,
Westcliff-on-Sea
Essex
SS0 9EB
England

Telephone: 01702 354064
Fax: 01792 354064

Teddy gave me an old copy of a catalogue so I can't give you current prices but they do have three different widths listed of cotton covered crinolene steel.  I hope this helps.

Cheers,
Danielle

--------- Original Message ---------

DATE: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 10:11:19
From: Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: 

>Hi,
>
>I wonder if anyone nows a place where I can buy coated metal boning for 
>hoopskirts in Europe?
>
>Greetings,
>        Deredere
>
>
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Need a new email address that people can remember
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Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2004 12:57:38 -0400
Subject: Re: [h-cost] More William Morris textile type mugs
From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Ooh, if anyone has a good source for Arts & Crafts or Art Nouveau style
stainless flatware, tell me, too!
Lauren


> From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
 If anyone wants to email me with
> suggestions for brands/design names, or sources, feel free.  For that
> matter I wouldn't mind Arts & Crafts or Art Nouveau style stainless
> steel flatware.
> 
> Thanks to everyone who helped in the Great Mug Hunt.
> 
> Fran
> http://www.lavoltapress.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] More William Morris textile type mugs
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What the Arts & Crafts decoration sites are all recommending is Reed & 
Barton hammered flatware.  R & B has a couple of hammered styles.  The 
best prices are currently at Ross-Simons, added to which Ross-Simons has 
a 15% off everything sale ending today.  Art Nouveau flatware I have not 
looked into much.

Michael FitzSimmons (www.fitzdecarts.com or something like that) has 
William Morris patterned dinnerware, white with the Morris border, 4 
different border choices.  I have not found it anywhere else.  They also 
have a really boring (though they say it's an accurate repro) Arts & 
Crafts pattern called Tudor Rose.  I've seen the Tudor Rose at a local 
Arts & Crafts furniture store. It's mostly white china with a tiny, 
unexciting little motif on the rims.

The dinnerware we will probably buy is Lindt Stymeist Craftworks 
stoneware.  They have a bunch of different shaped and sized plates, 
bowls, etc. with matte glazes in earthtones, browns and grays plus a 
green or two.  You buy however many you want and mix shapes and colors 
at will.  I think it's very much in the Arts & Crafts spirit.  
Furthermore when we have to replace a piece it's OK if it doesn't match 
exactly.  We can use our current brown Heath serving bowls and platters 
with it too.

Fran

Lauren Walker wrote:

>Ooh, if anyone has a good source for Arts & Crafts or Art Nouveau style
>stainless flatware, tell me, too!
>Lauren
>
>
>  
>
>>From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
>>    
>>
> If anyone wants to email me with
>  
>
>>suggestions for brands/design names, or sources, feel free.  For that
>>matter I wouldn't mind Arts & Crafts or Art Nouveau style stainless
>>steel flatware.
>>
>>Thanks to everyone who helped in the Great Mug Hunt.
>>
>>Fran
>>http://www.lavoltapress.com
>>    
>>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>  
>
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*Wedding dress, bride's stepdaughter and Maid of Honour's bodice due: Oct 4
*Continuing my research into producing the jewelry in the painting "Bella Nani" http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/wardrobe/BellaNani1560.jpg the ultimate end goal is to more or less have a complete costuming that has direct resemblance to this painting, down to the hand made shoes anticipated end date: Sept 20 for the dress and other textile garments, November for the metalworking
*Searching for, and eventually applying the jewel work on "A Portrait of a Lady in White" http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/wardrobe/RobustiWhite.jpg Again, with the goal of completing the entire costume. I am entertaining the idea of making punto in aria lace for the sleeve cuffs. Anticipated end date: November
*Finish the second of two shoes I am making, using the "Red Bay" slipper pattern. End date: soon
*Continue my research on the period construction of Dolbadarn Castle in Gynfydd, Wales. The ultimate goal of the project is a 3 dimensional digital reconstruction fly through based on existing land surveys, current archaeological data, and architectural practices during the period of its construction. Pie in the sky anticipated end date: November
*a major gardening project in my backyard that includes taking apart an 11x5 foot ornamental pond and accompanying 3 tonne limestone waterfall that has shattered so badly there is little chance of repair, then turning the stones into a raised sand box for my daughter and foot stone for the deck steps, a flag path and adding a shade tree nearby, a pergola to partially shade the sandbox, then creating a garden in the old pond hole. end date: when a miracle comes my way!

From: "Molly Boone" 
<snipped>...Trying to stay sane
<snipped>~There is a fine line between 'hobby' and 'mental illness'. I tripped over it a few years back

I think maniac fits my description... possibly glutton for punishment? :-)

Kathy



---------------------------------
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Looking for info on the Charles the VI pourpoint
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>From: Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net>
>And someone told me that one of the cutting diagrams in Harmand is this 
>garment, but I
>haven't taken the time to correlate it precisely. Harmand is: Harmand, 
>Adrien.  1929.  Jeanne d'Arc: ses costumes, son armure.  Lib. Ernest 
>Leroux, Paris.
>(Be aware that many of the cutting diagrams in Harmand are speculative, 
>rather than being taken
>from actual garments.)

Having read the Harmand and closely examining the diagrams, barring any 
further evidence to the contrary, I'm inclined to assume that Harmand is the 
source for the diagrams that show up elsewhere :)

Marc

_________________________________________________________________
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From: "james barker" <flonzy@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for info on the Charles the VI pourpoint
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Heather this is great information thank you. Vicki the images on master Cads 
site are very helpfull, I can see the constuction lines in it very well 
thanks.

James










From: Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net>
Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>, h-costume@net.indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for info on the Charles the VI pourpoint
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 21:49:20 -0700

At 10:36 AM -0400 6/24/04, james barker wrote:
>Hi I am new to the list but I hear there are some seriously good 
>researchers here and I need some help.
>
>I am looking for images of the actual garment and or line drawings of the 
>pieces of the Charles the VI of France pourpoint. All I have is the front 
>photo and a tiny photo of it on a dummy and I would really like to see some 
>detail so I came make a nice reproduction.

This garment is annoyingly elusive in the literature.  I've only personally 
seen a photo of it in:

Le coton et la mode - 1000 ans d'aventures. 2000.  Musée Galliera, musee de 
la ville de Paris.

My notes on it (since I wasn't able to buy the copy I saw it in) are:

p.19 - pourpoint de Charles VI le Bien-Aimé, dernier quart du XIVe siecle, 
Chartres, musee des Beaux-Arts, cat no 7 [of this exhibition - the museum 
inventory no is 2895], lampas de soie rouge, matière de renbourrage, coton; 
H 69cm

red looks like silk monochrome brocade, quilted vertically, scalloping at 
hem, sleeves have very shallow inset, buttoned up front, wadded with cotton

I've also been pointed to (but haven't had a chance to look up):

Schoeffer-Masson, Marie.  1998   'Le pourpoint dr Charles de Bloix daté  
d'avant 1364. Remarques, comparaison et restauration; in Interdisciplinary 
Approach about Studies and Conservation of Medieval Textiles, Actes du 
congrès ICOM du comité de conservation, Palerme, 1998.

And someone told me that one of the cutting diagrams in Harmand is this 
garment, but I haven't taken the time to correlate it precisely. Harmand is:

Harmand, Adrien.  1929.  Jeanne d'Arc: ses costumes, son armure.  Lib. 
Ernest Leroux, Paris.

(Be aware that many of the cutting diagrams in Harmand are speculative, 
rather than being taken from actual garments.)

And that's all I've been able to track down so far.

Heather
--
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Heather Rose Jones
heather.jones@earthlink.net
****

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even for a time when we're quiet this is unusual. Just a post to see if I get anything.....

Testing 1.. 2.. 3....

Crissy
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Katie Pleasance <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
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Gosh durn'd Lady, I was peacefully snoring away a pleasant Sunday afternoon 
and you had to blow your blasted air-horn!

Whadaya wanna talk about?

I had a marvelous time learning about German Ren garb at Collegium 
Nebularium (West, Mists, Teufelberg Shire) yesterday. Knowledgeable 
instructors and good lectures. I now know *much* more about 
waffen-and-other-kind-of-rocken and how to drape an Italianate bodice and 
how to make a Puff 'n Slash German Sleeve and spent two glorious hours 
learning about the of history of German  women's garb from 1490 to 1540. 
Ooo La!

Katie

Does anybody know how 'authentic' Petruchio's garb was in the Burton/Taylor 
version of Taming of the Shrew? Gloriousl Gaudy Garb!!!

Katie

At 10:00 PM 6/27/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>even for a time when we're quiet this is unusual. Just a post to see if I 
>get anything.....
>
>Testing 1.. 2.. 3....
>
>Crissy
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume



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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Jun 27 19:02:14 2004
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Here is a link to my Lillian Dache hat on Ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8114789774&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&rd=1
Sue@VictorianMillinery.com
401 Fairview Ave.
Frederick, MD 21701
301-694-8950


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On Sunday 27 June 2004 06:00 pm, sewinggoddess@att.net wrote:
> even for a time when we're quiet this is unusual. Just a post to see if I
> get anything.....
>
> Testing 1.. 2.. 3....
>
Your connection is fine; it's just very, very quiet on the list.  

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"A man cannot be too careful in the choice of his enemies." 
-Oscar Wilde
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I tried going to the web site at the bottom of the messages and can't find
how to go to nomail.   is that an option for this list?   if so, could
someone send me the link?   thanks,  Kitty


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It's when you don't get stuff around Christmas that you have to worry,

-C.


> even for a time when we're quiet this is unusual. Just a post to see if I
get anything.....

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Subject: [h-cost] Lederhosen
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Does anyone on the list know where I could find a pattern to make
lederhosen? (the shorts kind that are worn at folk festivals)

Thanks,

                   .
                 /'
                //
            .  //
            |\//7
           /' " \
          .   . .
          | (    \     '._
          |  '._  '    '. '
          /    \'-'_---. ) )
         .              :.'
         |               \
         | .    .   .     .
         ' .    |  |      |
          \^   /_-':     /
          / | |    '\  .'
         / /| |     \\  |
         \ \( )     // /
          \ | |    // /
           L! !   // /   Joan Broneske
            [_]  L[_|    unicorn@surewest.net


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Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2004 01:53:48 -0400
From: Kitty Felton <basyefelton@floodcity.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Wool (was First time Regency)
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I've set this list to no mail so I can work on my computer, but I am
deleting emails right and left and will forget to offer this question. 

  where do you find light wools to use for summer dresses.   We live in
a very muggy area, and I am very heavy so I don't want to be hot and
sweaty, but I heard wool could be cool if it was very fine and I do like
wool so I am interested.   

if you could, please include this address in the to section of your
reply so I will recieve your answer, basyefelton@floodcity.net
I am recieving individual emails through my hubby's computer, but I went
to nomail on all my lists.   thanks,  Kitty

Shane & Sheridan wrote:
> 
> I always wash/dry the heck out of the wool before I sew with it, shrinkage
> seems to depend on how much of a twist the thread that makes up the weave
> has, and the weave itself.
> 
> I love how lightly fulled wool feels when it comes out of the dryer, often
> it is much softer than I expected. But then I'm just a wool junkie. :-) I'll
> happily wear it year-round.
> 
> Sheridan
> 
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Wool (was First time Regency)
> 
> > wow, that's amazing!   I wonder where my info came from?  I know
> > traditionally it would shrink.  think they treat most wool now to control
> > shrinkage?   well, whatever.  I guess it's a matter of trial and error.
> > I think if I wanted to wash and dry a wool garment I would test drive a
> > half yard or so.   just to see what it did.   Kitty
> >
> >
> > > Hi!  I used to never wash my wool until my (ex)husband threw one of my
> > > gowns in the washer and dryer.  I discovered that it didn't shrink, even
> > > though is was 100% wool.  That's when I decided to think more about what
> > > I wanted to make with it, when it came to deciding whether or not to
> > > wash my wool or not.  For example:  wash and dry on hot settings to
> > > 'felt' the wool for my cape.  Also my summer gowns were washed and dried
> > > on hot settings and they barely shrank at all.
> > >
> > > When I make modern suits, I don't prewash my wool at all, since I know
> > > that my suits will be dry cleaned anyways.  I put too much
> > > infrastructure into the suit pieces to risk having all that hand work
> > > for the lapels, sleeve head support and other support touches ruined in
> > > the washer and dryer.
> > >
> > > But maybe my experiences with washing and drying wool are just flukes
> > > peculiar to me?  I dunno, but whatever, it just seems to work for me.
> > >
> > > Happy Stitching!
> > >  Emer/Gia
> > >>
> > >>   but doesn't wool need to be either a blend or treated with
> > >> formaldahyde to make it washable without shrinking?
> > >>
> > >> Kitty
> > >>
> > >> _______________________________________________
> > >> h-costume mailing list
> > >> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > >> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
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> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Wool (was First time Regency)
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On Mon, 28 Jun 2004, Kitty Felton wrote:

>   where do you find light wools to use for summer dresses.

You need worsted wool or "tropical" wool, such as that used for summer
suitings. It usually comes in men's suit colors (grey, navy, black,
pinstripe) but sometimes you can find it in other colors.

I have found good worsted wool in several places:

 -- At high-end fabric stores, such as G Street or Vogue; often expensive.
 -- At Hancock's and (sometimes) JoAnn's, normally in the $15-20/yard
range but often stuck on the clearance racks in midwinter or spring. Be
sure it's 100% wool.
 -- On eBay, as low as $6/yard.
 -- The best choice: http://www.fashionfabricsoutlet.com . I work for the
brick-and-mortar store associated with this site, but we rarely get the
nice-color worsteds, which sell well online. Be sure you don't buy a
stretch wool, and if the wool you do get has lycra in it (I've seen
manufacturer labels be wrong, and whatever is on the label is what goes on
the site) you can return it.

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Wool (was First time Regency)
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>   where do you find light wools to use for summer dresses.   We live in
> a very muggy area, and I am very heavy so I don't want to be hot and
> sweaty, but I heard wool could be cool if it was very fine and I do like
> wool so I am interested.

The wool I used for my Anna Meyer dress is a very very light gauzy wool that
was actually a last bolt deal on some Ralph Lauren fabric;)
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/annameyer.htm


They had some even finer in an olivey green last time as well.

It is really rather cool, but warmer than say cotton or linen in the same
weight. I need to line my bodice in somehting else really, I think thats the
main reason it's not completely winter-summer convertable;)

I didn't full my wool,simply because I could not afford more than I bought
and couldn't risk losing fabric from shrinkage for a little fulling. Which
would have ruined the way it drapes and pleats anyway.

This pleats beautifully. I haven't ironed the pleats in my skirt yet, but at
the waist they are fairly well pressed simply from being sewn down;)

The weave is so lovely, absolutely perfect for embroidering as it's so even.

As to where to hunt them down regularly.. no idea. I suspect you'd just need
to ask around your local stores and search for tropical weight wool online.

michaela
http://costumes.glittersweet.com


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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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I need images of Brisih military uniforms for early 20th cent.  Would also
like to know what the women wore.  My guess is that it would be the same as
England but in Indian cottons?
Thanks for any help.
Kate


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I've gotten nice stuff from G-street fabrics, back in the good old days 
(tm), when they still had a website.  A brick red, like a good madder 
color, and a camel-tan.  Both tropical-weight.
You can also get nice wools from a Portland, OR SCA Merchant, Pastische. 
  I got almost 9 yards of a garnet-colored fine wool from them a few 
weeks ago.  It's not gauzy, but it's very light weight--a light shirt 
weight rather than dress or pant weight.  I've got at least 4 different 
historical periods arguing over which one gets the fabric <g> (12th c. 
French, 14th c French or English [fitted gown], 15th c. Italian, or 16th 
c. Flemish).  A friend got some creamy-white wool gauze from them light 
enough to make veils from.  I went back for some of that myself, but it 
was all gone :(
They don't have a website yet, but I was told that they're working on one.
--sue

Robin Netherton wrote:

> On Mon, 28 Jun 2004, Kitty Felton wrote:
> 
> 
>>  where do you find light wools to use for summer dresses.
> 
> 
> You need worsted wool or "tropical" wool, such as that used for summer
> suitings. It usually comes in men's suit colors (grey, navy, black,
> pinstripe) but sometimes you can find it in other colors.
> 
> I have found good worsted wool in several places:
> 
>  -- At high-end fabric stores, such as G Street or Vogue; often expensive.

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Kate:
Try:
020  0906671426
100  Battye, Evelyn, Cecil Elgee
245  Costumes and characters from the British raj
260  Exter, England : Webb & Bower, 1982


This is one of my favourite periods in the history of the Raj.
David

Kate Pinner wrote:

>I need images of Brisih military uniforms for early 20th cent.  Would also
>like to know what the women wore.  My guess is that it would be the same as
>England but in Indian cottons?
>Thanks for any help.
>Kate
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>  
>

-- 
David Serxner
NCSU Libraries Acquisitions Dept.
Serials and Electronic Resources
Campus Box 7111
Raleigh, NC  27695-7111
919-513-3355 office
919-515-7292 fax


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A great resource is this book:

All About Wool: Fabric Dictionary and Swatchbook (Fabric Reference Ser.; 
Vol. 3)) by Julie Parker

Description from the Amazon.com website

The third volume in Julie Parker's Fabric Reference Series explains the 
different fabrics made from wool and similar fibers, using plain English 
instead of confusing technical jargon. A detailed description of each 
fabric is illustrated with a real cloth sample, right there on the same 
page, which clarifies in the simplest way what a boiled wool, crepe, 
gabardine or whipcord actually looks and feels like.

A comprehensive introduction covers characteristics of the fiber, 
history of wool, breeds of sheep and other wool-bearing animals (such as 
camels and goats), types of wool, the main sources of wool, the wool 
textile industry, industry trends and how to judge quality. The 
introduction is followed by two-page descriptions of the main fabric 
types, each illustrated with a 2-1/2" x 4" cloth sample and simple 
black-and-white drawings. In the back of the book, space is provided for 
the reader to collect additional samples and record personal notes, 
followed by a list of mail-order sources, glossary, bibliography and index.

The fabric samples are packaged separately, layered in the same order as 
they appear in the book. It takes only a few minutes to mount the 
samples to the book's pages, using double-stick tape or a small spot of 
glue. Instructions are included. Samples include 30 wool fabrics and 5 
specialty hair fibers, in this order: blanket cloth, boiled wool, boucl, 
cavalry twill, challis, coating, crpe, Donegal tweed, double cloth, 
double knit, felt, flannel (woolen), flannel (worsted), gabardine, glen 
plaid, Harris tweed, herringbone, homespun, houndstooth, jacquard, 
jersey, loden cloth, melton, menswear suiting, novelty suiting, plaid, 
satin, tropical suiting, tweed, whipcord, alpaca, angora rabbit, camel's 
hair, cashmere and mohair.

All About Wool is packed with information about the different weaves, 
yarns and finishes used to make wool fabrics. Terms such as woolen, 
worsted, merino wool, superfine wool and lamb's wool are clearly 
explained. A must for anyone who works with or wears wool!

The Fabric Reference Series has been featured in Crafter's Choice, a 
division of Book-of-the-Month Club. Other books in the series include 
All About Silk, with 32 silk samples, and All About Cotton, with 42 
cotton samples.


-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent


A non-smoking section in a restaurant is like a non-peeing section in a 
pool.
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On Mon, 28 Jun 2004, Sue Clemenger wrote:

>   I got almost 9 yards of a garnet-colored fine wool from them a few 
> weeks ago.  It's not gauzy, but it's very light weight--a light shirt 
> weight rather than dress or pant weight.  I've got at least 4 different 
> historical periods arguing over which one gets the fabric <g> (12th c. 
> French, 14th c French or English [fitted gown], 15th c. Italian, or 16th 
> c. Flemish).

You probably need suit-weight to do the fitted gown, so that wouldn't be
your best choice for this piece. Should make the argument simpler ;-)

--Robin

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From: "Kate Pinner" <pinner@mccc.edu>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] British India 1906ish
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2004 10:33:29 -0400
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David,
Thanx!
Kate
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of David Serxner
Sent: Monday, June 28, 2004 9:10 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] British India 1906ish

Kate:
Try:
020  0906671426
100  Battye, Evelyn, Cecil Elgee
245  Costumes and characters from the British raj
260  Exter, England : Webb & Bower, 1982


This is one of my favourite periods in the history of the Raj.
David

Kate Pinner wrote:

>I need images of Brisih military uniforms for early 20th cent.  Would
also
>like to know what the women wore.  My guess is that it would be the
same as
>England but in Indian cottons?
>Thanks for any help.
>Kate
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>  
>

-- 
David Serxner
NCSU Libraries Acquisitions Dept.
Serials and Electronic Resources
Campus Box 7111
Raleigh, NC  27695-7111
919-513-3355 office
919-515-7292 fax


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Katie Pleasance <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Wool 
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I have the silk and wool versions of this book. It is extremely useful for 
determining what kind of fabric to use for a particular application.

Katie

At 09:13 AM 6/28/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>A great resource is this book:
>
>All About Wool: Fabric Dictionary and Swatchbook (Fabric Reference Ser.; 
>Vol. 3)) by Julie Parker



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Kate,

They had a whole tropical uniform set, part of the
"official issue".  Later on the various patterns
became known by small variations, ie 1910 pattern
belt.

I came across a story from later, the thirties I think
that you might be amused by.  Apparently, one of the
high ranking soldiers had a servant that starched his
uniform (including the official issue shorts) so
strongly that when he sat at his desk he first stepped
out of them and stood them up in the corner of his
office.  He commented that as long as he took care not
to stand up, no-one ever noticed!

Best of luck,
Chris


	
	
		
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Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2004 19:24:29 -0400
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Wool (was First time Regency)
From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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This link didn't work for me, but my favorite place to buy lightweight dress
wools on line is http://wwww.fashionfabricsclub.com, which might possibly be
the same place? Anyway right now through July 9 many of their wools are $8 a
yard or less. They have lovely tropicals and suit weights in a variety of
colors -- lilacs and roses and reds and greens as well as the more usual
grays and blues and browns. Again, watch out for the ones with Lycra, but
there are many that are at least MARKED as 100% wool. I've had good luck
with the fabrics, though I can't be sure a little rayon hasn't sneaked into
some of them. Enjoy!

-- 
Lauren M. Walker

> From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>

> 
> 
> On Mon, 28 Jun 2004, Kitty Felton wrote:
> 
>> where do you find light wools to use for summer dresses.
> 

> -- The best choice: http://www.fashionfabricsoutlet.com .

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Wool (was First time Regency)
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On Mon, 28 Jun 2004, Lauren Walker wrote:

> This link didn't work for me, but my favorite place to buy lightweight
> dress wools on line is http://wwww.fashionfabricsclub.com, which might
> possibly be the same place?

Yes indeed. I got mixed up with names -- they also use
http://www.fashionfabricsonline.com (same site as your link above). The
brick-and-mortar store here in town is Fashion Fabrics Outlet, which was
what was in my brain when I tried to type.

> Anyway right now through July 9 many of their wools are $8 a yard or
> less. They have lovely tropicals and suit weights in a variety of
> colors -- lilacs and roses and reds and greens as well as the more
> usual grays and blues and browns. Again, watch out for the ones with
> Lycra, but there are many that are at least MARKED as 100% wool. I've
> had good luck with the fabrics, though I can't be sure a little rayon
> hasn't sneaked into some of them. Enjoy!

The fail-safe test is to drop a small swatch into a small glass jar or
dish of bleach and leave it a few hours. (I use a baby food jar.) If the
fabric dissolves completely, it's all animal fiber -- wool or silk. (Silk
may leave a small residue of seracin.) Other fibers will remain in the
cup. If there's just a tiny bit of lycra, this can be hard to find in the
bleach -- it may be just a few strands -- so look carefully!

--Robin

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Wool online
References: <BD0620EC.5F4F%lauren.walker@comcast.net>
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Robin wrote:

>  -- The best choice: http://www.fashionfabricsoutlet.com . I work for the
> brick-and-mortar store associated with this site,

Lauren Walker wrote:

 > This link didn't work for me, but my favorite place to buy 
lightweight dress
 > wools on line is http://wwww.fashionfabricsclub.com

Both of these addresses are failing; perhaps just a temporary weird thing?

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent
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Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2004 20:11:51 -0400
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Wool online
From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Typo: Try reducing fashionfabricsclub.com to just 3 ws
http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com

> From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue+dated+1104019544.c93668@thibault.org>
> Organization: Medieval Hats: http://www.virtue.to
> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2004 20:07:20 -0400
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Wool online
> 
> Robin wrote:
> 
>> -- The best choice: http://www.fashionfabricsoutlet.com . I work for the
>> brick-and-mortar store associated with this site,
> 
> Lauren Walker wrote:
> 
>> This link didn't work for me, but my favorite place to buy
> lightweight dress
>> wools on line is http://wwww.fashionfabricsclub.com
> 
> Both of these addresses are failing; perhaps just a temporary weird thing?
> 
> -- 
> Cynthia Virtue and/or
> Cynthia du Pré Argent
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jun 28 21:14:57 2004
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From: "teawithablackdragon *" <wishingonasta60@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Lederhosen
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2004 01:14:07 +0000
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the closet thing I could find to lederhosen  
http://www.1stbavarianonlineshop.com/englisch/index.htm was this Eagle's 
View Men's Broadfall Drop Front Breeches & Pants pattern. Standard breeches 
and pants for the Regency man.  http://www.songsmyth.com/menspatterns.html

Wilhelmina


>From: "Joan Broneske" <unicorn@surewest.net>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] Lederhosen
>Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2004 22:10:16 -0700
>
>Does anyone on the list know where I could find a pattern to make
>lederhosen? (the shorts kind that are worn at folk festivals)
>
>Thanks,
>
>                    .
>                  /'
>                 //
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>             |\//7
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>            L! !   // /   Joan Broneske
>             [_]  L[_|    unicorn@surewest.net
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Jun 28 21:36:09 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lederhosen
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Thanks for the link.  I think that might just do the trick, and it even says
it has instructions for working with leather.

                   .
                 /'
                //
            .  //
            |\//7
           /' " \
          .   . .
          | (    \     '._
          |  '._  '    '. '
          /    \'-'_---. ) )
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           L! !   // /   Joan Broneske
            [_]  L[_|    unicorn@surewest.net

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "teawithablackdragon *" <wishingonasta60@hotmail.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, June 28, 2004 6:14 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Lederhosen


> the closet thing I could find to lederhosen
> http://www.1stbavarianonlineshop.com/englisch/index.htm was this Eagle's
> View Men's Broadfall Drop Front Breeches & Pants pattern. Standard
breeches
> and pants for the Regency man.  http://www.songsmyth.com/menspatterns.html
>
> Wilhelmina
>
>
> >From: "Joan Broneske" <unicorn@surewest.net>
> >Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> >To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> >Subject: [h-cost] Lederhosen
> >Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2004 22:10:16 -0700
> >
> >Does anyone on the list know where I could find a pattern to make
> >lederhosen? (the shorts kind that are worn at folk festivals)
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >                    .
> >                  /'
> >                 //
> >             .  //
> >             |\//7
> >            /' " \
> >           .   . .
> >           | (    \     '._
> >           |  '._  '    '. '
> >           /    \'-'_---. ) )
> >          .              :.'
> >          |               \
> >          | .    .   .     .
> >          ' .    |  |      |
> >           \^   /_-':     /
> >           / | |    '\  .'
> >          / /| |     \\  |
> >          \ \( )     // /
> >           \ | |    // /
> >            L! !   // /   Joan Broneske
> >             [_]  L[_|    unicorn@surewest.net
> >
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >h-costume mailing list
> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar – get it now!
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>


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Hi Joan,

I don't have a pattern here, but depending on when you need it, I can get my 
mum to look throught her old Burda magazines (she has them since the 50's, 
there will definitely be some in there).

Other than that, have a look here, maybe there's someone here who can help 
you:
http://www.lederhosenmuseum.de/GBhomepage.htm

Hope this helps,

Caithlinn

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On Mon, 28 Jun 2004, Sue Clemenger wrote:

> Hadn't thought of that! Too light-weight to take the stresses placed on 
> it? or just not enough weight to hang properly, etc.?

Both, I think. The linen lining does most of the work, but the outer layer
does some, and you don't want it to look flimsy stretched over the top.

--Robin


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Hadn't thought of that! Too light-weight to take the stresses placed on 
it? or just not enough weight to hang properly, etc.?
--sue "too many centuries and never enough clothing" clemenger ;o)

Robin Netherton wrote:

> You probably need suit-weight to do the fitted gown, so that wouldn't be
> your best choice for this piece. Should make the argument simpler ;-)

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That would be very nice of you!  I don't need it in any real hurry.  My
husband and I have just joined a German-American Turnverein and they have
events like Oktoberfest and Bock Beer fest, etc. I have made myself a Drndl
and he would like some Lederhosen. I figured it would be fun to try to make
them for him.



                               /^\
                               [ ]
                               [ ]
                               [ ]
                               [ ]
	        %%%%%            [ ]
             %/~~~\%           [ ]
            %| _ _ |%          [ ]
            %|  -  |%          [ ]
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       :. | %%%:| %%% |  \//  / #@
       | :...: | \|\xxxxx//  /  @
       |* * * *|  /   xx/ |\ Joan Broneske
       | * * * | /   *)    ) unicorn@surewest.net
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       : | | | :            \
        \| | |/     \___     \
         \_|_/        / \  )  )
                      \  \___/
                       )


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Cornelia Muncke
Sent: Monday, June 28, 2004 8:27 PM
To: h-costume@net.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re:Lederhosen


Hi Joan,

I don't have a pattern here, but depending on when you need it, I can get my
mum to look throught her old Burda magazines (she has them since the 50's,
there will definitely be some in there).

Other than that, have a look here, maybe there's someone here who can help
you:
http://www.lederhosenmuseum.de/GBhomepage.htm

Hope this helps,

Caithlinn

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Find love today with ninemsn personals. Click here:
http://ninemsn.match.com?referrer=hotmailtagline

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jun 29 00:32:08 2004
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Subject: [h-cost] Parasols
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 Our instructor, Marna Jean Davis, has been contracted to make the 1850's vintage parasols for the new Legends of Zorro film, starring Catherine Zeta Jones.   Marna Jean teaches our Parasol Restoration class at the Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com .  The class is self paced.   The class opened last week as a semester class through Dec. 31.   Marna Jean is chatting with the students in this class while making the parasols for the Zorro film.  Her deadline for the film is July 15.   Marna Jean also made the parasols for the movie Cold Mountain.

If you are interested in taking this class, we do suggest you start ASAP because gathering the class supplies does take a while.  I purchased an old parasol frame on eBay a few months ago.  You just have to watch for them.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
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This might make it *really* easy, since I could have somewhat the same 
problem with the later-period stuff.  I'd first thought that it would be 
really sweet for German or Flemish, because I could do rolled pleats, 
and they wouldn't be too bulky.
If I made a 12th c. gown out of it, it'd be lovely to wear in September 
(SCA event--Coronation--and the theme is 12th c. Byzantine-influenced 
German).  I wonder about what to use for the undergown, 
though...hmmmmm....(sue goes through her mental stash)....I've got some 
lovely light-weight linen in an off-gold color...hmmm.....
--sue "any excuse to fondle fabric" clemenger

Robin Netherton wrote:

> On Mon, 28 Jun 2004, Sue Clemenger wrote:
> 
> 
>>Hadn't thought of that! Too light-weight to take the stresses placed on 
>>it? or just not enough weight to hang properly, etc.?
> 
> 
> Both, I think. The linen lining does most of the work, but the outer layer
> does some, and you don't want it to look flimsy stretched over the top.
> 
> --Robin


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Subject: [h-cost] Will be in Virginia Beach this weekend
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is there anyone from the area who'll be around?

We're considering heading down tomorrow so I can catch Williamsburg and/or 
Jamestown Thursday or Friday (we figure Sat-Sun-Mon is going to be 
ridiculous, crowd-wise, and we have to head back Tuesday), but Frank is 
thinking on holding off a day unless I can make contact with someone in 
that area.

I'm of course looking for any interesting clothing/costuming stuff, and I 
actually have a bit of a project to the general US-colonial period:  a 
1776-ish outfit for a teddy bear who has been accompanying me on *way too 
many* Libertarian Party functions (he's identical to the bear who's making 
the renfaire rounds on the teddystravels list and serves as a fitter's 
model for the patterns I post to that list).

Since I get the list on digest, responses off-list will be seen sooner than 
responses to the list.



Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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Subject: [h-cost] Rare book on ABE
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Status: RO

Guys,

I've recently located and purchased this book (got it at Moes'  in Berkeley
for $75).  I know it's a title that often comes up on the list. They have it
in the Netherlands for $100 US.

angela
+++++++++++++++++++
Dear Madam/Sir,

The following title has just been imported into the ILAB-LILA
database. This title corresponds with the criteria you
filled into our wants database.

=============================================================
Author: Herald,Jacqueline.
Title : Renaissance dress in Italy 1400-1500.
Price : EUR 100.00
to view the full description or to order, click on the link:
http://www.ilabdatabase.com/php/detailindex.php3?booknr=127343988&lang=

This title is offered by:
  Antiquariaat A. Kok & Zn. B.V.
  NETHERLANDS
  http://www.nvva.nl/kok
=============================================================
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
Theatrical Costume Design
"Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:
be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,
and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:
be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
W. Shakespeare

http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com

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Subject: [h-cost] OT but important - FWD: Theft at the VT Faire! Please Help!
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Sorry to those who may get this more than once.


>Subject: 	[New_England_Rennies] Theft at the VT Faire! Please Help!
>Date: 	Mon, 28 Jun 2004 16:11:00 -0000
>From: 	Glori Marie <gshanda@portlandradiogroup.com>
>Reply-To: 	New_England_Rennies@yahoogroups.com
>To: 	New_England_Rennies@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>Our good friends at Autumn Tree Productions were the victims of a
>theft over the weekend. They lost some $4000 in weapons, armor, garb
>and tools. It was stolen while at the Vermont Renaissance Faire.
>Information can be found here:
>
>http://www.gbuonline.com/stolen.html
>
>Please send any information you have to:
>
>stolen@autumntreeproductions.com
>or stolen@gbuonline.com.
>
>Please spread the word to any lists you can think of who may be able
>to help in this matter. SCA, LARPs, other faires, message boards,
>etc. They are going to try to find pictures of all the weapons in our
>archives and photos.
>
>Any help you can give is appreciated. Thanks.
>
>
>Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
>ADVERTISEMENT
><http://us.ard.yahoo.com/SIG=1292eksfj/M=298184.5022502.6152625.3001176/D=groups/S=1705545484:HM/EXP=1088525517/A=2164339/R=0/SIG=11e2d64in/*http://www.netflix.com/Default?mqso=60183348> 
>
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>    * To visit your group on the web, go to:
>      http://groups.yahoo.com/group/New_England_Rennies/
>       
>    * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>      New_England_Rennies-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>      <mailto:New_England_Rennies-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe>
>       
>    * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
>      Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
>
>
>
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>This message has been brought to you be the Maine Renaissance Faire
>This is the social Maine Faire list. If you don't like being on this 
>list, please send an email to 'ecartis@talker.com' with the words
>'unsubscribe faire-l' in the subject. Then confirm the message you get
>from listar. If that fails, send a bribe to faire-l-owner@talker.com.
>
>See the FAQ for what's appropriate on this list: http://www.mainefaire.com/faire-l-faq.txt
>
>Sorry for the long footer of this message, it has become necessary. 
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>


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In a message dated 6/21/2004 7:56:20 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:
Go check it out if you're in the Big Apple. I think it's there until Sept. 
[or that might be the Modigliani retrospective at the Jewish Museum...also a 
must see!]
The Met exhibit closes Aug. 8, so hurry!
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT but important - FWD: Theft at the VT Faire! Please
	Help!
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I would recommend that the victims of the theft keep a VERY close eye on 
eBay.  The thieves may think that they can anonymously and safely offload the 
merchandise by auctioning it.  eBay has links to report stolen items that are 
listed for auction:

http://pages.ebay.com/help/policies/stolen.html

If they do try to list it, it goes from being a local matter to a Federal 
Crime.  I hope that they are caught and the merchandise recovered!

-Tiffany
Non vestimentum virum ornat, sed vir vestimentum.
*******************************
Reflections*of*Worth
http://stores.ebay.com/Reflections-of-Worth
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Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2004 12:06:59 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Last time Robe a la Francaise
From: Lynn Downward <LDownward@chori.org>
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The Modigliani exhibit was at Los Angeles County Museum of Art when I was
down there last time, but the people in my group wanted to see the textiles
and by the time we were finished I didn't get to see Modigliani's work --
I'm still upset about that one. (My fault, I should have been more
assertive.) Make certain you get to see it!

LynnD
Still kicking myself


On 6/29/04 11:53 AM, "AnnBWass@aol.com" <AnnBWass@aol.com> wrote:

> In a message dated 6/21/2004 7:56:20 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> AlbertCat@aol.com writes:
> Go check it out if you're in the Big Apple. I think it's there until Sept.
> [or that might be the Modigliani retrospective at the Jewish Museum...also a
> must see!]
> The Met exhibit closes Aug. 8, so hurry!
> Ann Wass
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2004 13:49:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: KATHRYN WOLTERS <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Rare book on ABE
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Thank you SOOO much for mentioning this, Angela-----I've been trying to get that book for YEARS.
Just put my order in a little while ago-----I'm sure the bookseller is going to be inundated , though---so wish me luck----
Albra

angelalazear <angelalazear@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
Guys,

I've recently located and purchased this book (got it at Moes' in Berkeley
for $75). I know it's a title that often comes up on the list. They have it
in the Netherlands for $100 US.

angela
+++++++++++++++++++
Dear Madam/Sir,

The following title has just been imported into the ILAB-LILA
database. This title corresponds with the criteria you
filled into our wants database.

=============================================================
Author: Herald,Jacqueline.
Title : Renaissance dress in Italy 1400-1500.
Price : EUR 100.00
to view the full description or to order, click on the link:
http://www.ilabdatabase.com/php/detailindex.php3?booknr=127343988&lang=

This title is offered by:
Antiquariaat A. Kok & Zn. B.V.
NETHERLANDS
http://www.nvva.nl/kok
=============================================================
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
Theatrical Costume Design
"Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:
be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,
and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:
be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
W. Shakespeare

http://www.cabbagerosecostumes.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] bathing dress
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In a message dated 6/24/2004 7:18:28 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
wishingonasta60@hotmail.com writes:
http://www.agelesspatterns.com/71_Swimwearx.html
http://www.agelesspatterns.com/70_Swimwearx.html
These look great, but I've had experience before with patterns that are 
supposedly taken from period illustrations but leave a LOT to be desired. Anyone 
have experience with these particular patterns?

Ann Wass
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Jun 29 22:39:42 2004
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I've sewn two or three of them.They are not from period illustrations,
they are actual period patterns.
BUT--they really are for professionals. The instructions are so basic as
to be almost useless. If you know what you are doing, they are fine.
Also--they are one size only, you may have to make your own alterations.

Kim

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of AnnBWass@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 29, 2004 8:06 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] bathing dress


In a message dated 6/24/2004 7:18:28 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
wishingonasta60@hotmail.com writes:
http://www.agelesspatterns.com/71_Swimwearx.html
http://www.agelesspatterns.com/70_Swimwearx.html
These look great, but I've had experience before with patterns that are 
supposedly taken from period illustrations but leave a LOT to be
desired. Anyone 
have experience with these particular patterns?

Ann Wass
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Look Fabric Dot Com has the Tartan of Teddy's Clan!

http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/aa-765.html

Forgive me, I had too!

Stephen 

"They moved the Oscars to Sunday, it'll still end on Monday."

    Billy Crystal.

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Yeah, but if you'd been WAITING for this plaid all your life, THINK how
happy you'd be to find it in a nice 100% wool melton!!!! Suitable for
re-enacting! 
Lauren


> From: "Stephen Bergdahl" <madlystitching@earthlink.net>

> 
> Look Fabric Dot Com has the Tartan of Teddy's Clan!
> 
> http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/aa-765.html
> 
> Forgive me, I had too!
> 
> Stephen 
> 

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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reenacting what?

speaking of teddy, I cleaning and found an old Locus & his Julian May group
is on the cover (return of the hunt).

Susan in Bellevue.


> Yeah, but if you'd been WAITING for this plaid all your life, THINK how
> happy you'd be to find it in a nice 100% wool melton!!!! Suitable for
> re-enacting!
> Lauren
>
>
> > From: "Stephen Bergdahl" <madlystitching@earthlink.net>
>
> >
> > Look Fabric Dot Com has the Tartan of Teddy's Clan!
> >
> > http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/aa-765.html
> >
> > Forgive me, I had too!
> >
> > Stephen
> >
>


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jun 30 06:01:24 2004
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From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
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Hello folks,

Just a quick not to say, I'm back.  

<waves cheerily>

I've (tentatively) resubscribed to the digest version and will see how
it goes.  If it gets too high traffic I'll have to unsubscribe again -
which I don't want to do, since I've missed H-cost a lot in the time
I've been unsubbed.

Teddy
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>reenacting what?

>> Yeah, but if you'd been WAITING for this plaid all your life, THINK how
>> happy you'd be to find it in a nice 100% wool melton!!!! Suitable for
>> re-enacting!

Obvious, isn't it?  Something from the 1960s.

       CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
         www.FunStuft.com

             //// \\\
            ////-@@\\\
           ((((   7 )))
            (((  <> ))))
               )   ((((((
          /----\   /---\))

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> http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/aa-765.html

How... vivid!

Hi Teddy!

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

Do it,
Deligate it,
or
Drop it.  -- vew
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Stephen Bergdahl" <madlystitching@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>; <margospatterns@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2004 2:24 AM
Subject: [h-cost] PLAID


> Look Fabric Dot Com has the Tartan of Teddy's Clan!
> 
> http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/aa-765.html
> 
> Forgive me, I had too!
> 
> Stephen 

Oh, my EYES!

Dianne
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In a message dated 6/30/2004 6:42:20 AM Eastern Standard Time, kayta@frys.com 
writes:
Obvious, isn't it?  Something from the 1960s.
A Chanel-style suit. Best with matching blouse and lining.

Ann Wass
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] (H-Cost)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2004 07:34:18 -0500
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OMG! Welcome back!
Try the digest version- cuts down on the total _Number_ of messages..
Hugs, Betsy

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Teddy
Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2004 4:59 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] (H-Cost)

Hello folks,

Just a quick not to say, I'm back.  

<waves cheerily>

I've (tentatively) resubscribed to the digest version and will see how
it goes.  If it gets too high traffic I'll have to unsubscribe again -
which I don't want to do, since I've missed H-cost a lot in the time
I've been unsubbed.

Teddy
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Jun 30 08:40:55 2004
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Marquesate?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] (H-Cost)
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hi, Teddy!

How lovely to see you. I've tentatively poked my nose back in as well a couple
of weeks ago.

*hugs*

Nicole

--- Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk> wrote: > Hello folks,
> 
> Just a quick not to say, I'm back.  
> 
> <waves cheerily>
> 
> I've (tentatively) resubscribed to the digest version and will see how
> it goes.  If it gets too high traffic I'll have to unsubscribe again -
> which I don't want to do, since I've missed H-cost a lot in the time
> I've been unsubbed.
> 
> Teddy
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>  


	
	
		
___________________________________________________________ALL-NEW Yahoo! Messenger - sooooo many all-new ways to express yourself http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com
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Dang!
I was forwarned by the sentence preceding the link, and I think I burned 
out my eyeballs on that one anyways! Zowie, but that's bright!
--sue

Stephen Bergdahl wrote:

> Look Fabric Dot Com has the Tartan of Teddy's Clan!
> 
> http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/aa-765.html
> 
> Forgive me, I had too!
> 
> Stephen 


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Hey, Teddy, welcome back!
We've missed you lots, although it hasn't stopped us from talking about 
you on occasion! ;-D I think you'll find that we're generally quieter 
now than we were a couple of years ago.  Generally.
And welcome back to Nicole, as well!
--sue


Teddy wrote:

> Hello folks,
> 
> Just a quick not to say, I'm back.  
> 
> <waves cheerily>


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Woo Hoo!  Teddy and Nicole are back!  Nice to see you guys, so when are
you going to post pics of what you have been up to :)?

Catherine
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Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2004 15:15:20 +0100
From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] bathing dress
To: h-costume@indra.com
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> In a message dated 6/24/2004 7:18:28 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
> wishingonasta60@hotmail.com writes: 
> http://www.agelesspatterns.com/71_Swimwearx.html
> http://www.agelesspatterns.com/70_Swimwearx.html
> These look great, but I've had experience before with 
> patterns that are 
> supposedly taken from period illustrations but leave a LOT to 
> be desired. Anyone 
> have experience with these particular patterns?

Never used them, but disappointed that they don't have any mens bathing
outfits on offer - I need on made by the end of august and I'm startign
to get itnto panic mode about whether I'll find enough time to make
it....

Teddy
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Marquesate?= <nicolas_fouquet@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Woo Hoo!
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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--- Catherine Kinsey <ckinsey@kumc.edu> wrote: > Woo Hoo!  Teddy and Nicole are
back!  Nice to see you guys, so when are
> you going to post pics of what you have been up to :)?
> 
> Catherine

Hi Catherine :-)

I haven't been up to much, mainly been writing and not sewing. Besides, I lost
so much weight (three sizes) that none of my costumes fits anymore.

On the other hand it's an excuse to have another c 1700 corset made! *grins*
This time it'll be black and dark red shot silk taffeta and my costumier will
also make my mantua smaller over the winter. Right now I drown in it. *laughs*

I spent most of my time making my day-to-day clothes smaller and sewing ribbons
into all my shirts to tie them in the back. ;-)

Nicole


	
	
		
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Well Teddy said he isn't going to buy some, but I love it too.  So what do
you all think, Kilt, Houp or an Elizabethan with Purple trim?

Stephen

I could pay off my tab, pour myself in a cab,  And be back to work by two.

But at a moment like this I can't help but wonder?  What would Jimmy Buffet
do?

----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephen Bergdahl" <madlystitching@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>; <margospatterns@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 29, 2004 11:24 PM
Subject: [h-cost] PLAID


> Look Fabric Dot Com has the Tartan of Teddy's Clan!
>
> http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/aa-765.html
>
> Forgive me, I had too!
>
> Stephen
>
> "They moved the Oscars to Sunday, it'll still end on Monday."
>
>     Billy Crystal.
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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> How lovely to see you. I've tentatively poked my nose back in 
> as well a couple of weeks ago.
> 
> *hugs*

Hey Nicole - Yay!  Both back on good ol' H-costume!

Teddy
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Yes, however may the Deities that be help you if something _does_ slip through. Hubby is fighting a losing battle with EBay over a laptop notebook he bought, and everyone from RCMP on down (and across, since it was sold from the US) got involved in this. Doesn't matter. They have their legal loopholes to throw innocent victims out into the street. This will be the second time hubby has been ripped off buying on EBay, and neither of them were satisfactorily resolved. Personally I won't buy anything worth more than $100 there. After that I consider it gambling.
 
Kathy
I would recommend that the victims of the theft keep a VERY close eye on 
eBay. The thieves may think that they can anonymously and safely offload the 
merchandise by auctioning it. eBay has links to report stolen items that are 
listed for auction:

http://pages.ebay.com/help/policies/stolen.html

If they do try to list it, it goes from being a local matter to a Federal 
Crime. I hope that they are caught and the merchandise recovered!

-Tiffany


---------------------------------
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That's because almost all the Ageless Patterns are from _Harper's 
Bazar_.  Except for occasional undergarments, _Harper's Bazar_ seldom 
published men's patterns.  In general, Victorian and Edwardian pattern 
publications oriented to dressmakers (home or professional) stressed 
women's and children's patterns.  Publications oriented to professional 
tailors (a somewhat different skill) stressed men's patterns. 

Having said that, I can't, offhand, think of an available pattern for a 
man's Victorian bathing suit.  At some times and places in the 19th 
century, a man's bathing costume consisted of his birthday suit.

Volume 2 of our new anthology _Fashions of the Gilded Age_ contains four 
patterns for women's bathing suits from the 1877-1882 period.  Our book 
_Reconstruction Era Fashions_ contains _Harper's Bazar_ patterns for a 
woman's bathing cloak and two bathing caps from the 1867-1868 period (no 
bathing suits because no patterns for them were published in that 
magazine in those years).

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Teddy wrote:

>>http://www.agelesspatterns.com/71_Swimwearx.html
>>http://www.agelesspatterns.com/70_Swimwearx.html
>>These look great, but I've had experience before with 
>>patterns that are 
>>supposedly taken from period illustrations but leave a LOT to 
>>be desired. Anyone 
>>have experience with these particular patterns?
>>    
>>
>
>Never used them, but disappointed that they don't have any mens bathing
>outfits on offer - I need on made by the end of august and I'm startign
>to get itnto panic mode about whether I'll find enough time to make
>it....
>
>Teddy
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>  
>
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We've all been sneaky, as I've been back about a week now I suppose;)

michaela
http://costumes.glittersweet.com


> Hi, Teddy!
>
> How lovely to see you. I've tentatively poked my nose back in as well a
couple
> of weeks ago.


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For you? A Houp.  The more nasty fabric, the better! And you could do a 
hat picking up one of the more obnoxious tints (I'm envisioning one of 
those big, floppy chaperon things that are hoods-with-liripipes turned 
sideways).
More me, I think it's got to be that turquoise/pink combination, with a 
matching solid color, or course, worked into one of those rare 
cotehardie/fitted gowns that have the half-plaid/half solid appearance, 
and the plaid's on the bias.  heh, heh, heh....
I'm large enough that it'll look like a fabric store barfed on a couch, 
but it'd be great to wear for certain mornings at camping events.....
--sue, in a mood to do something twisted <g>

Stephen Bergdahl wrote:

> Well Teddy said he isn't going to buy some, but I love it too.  So what do
> you all think, Kilt, Houp or an Elizabethan with Purple trim?
> 
> Stephen
>

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Geez, it's turning into Auld Home Week! <g>
--sue, glad to see old friendly faces.....

michaela wrote:

> We've all been sneaky, as I've been back about a week now I suppose;)
> 
> michaela
> http://costumes.glittersweet.com
> 
> 
> 
>>Hi, Teddy!
>>
>>How lovely to see you. I've tentatively poked my nose back in as well a
> 
> couple
> 
>>of weeks ago.


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I no longer consider myself evil in some of the horrendous things I have
made.  I bow to a more cruel mind.


Molly

*still twitching just from the mental image*

 ~There is a fine line between 'hobby' and 'mental illness'.
      I think I tripped over it a few years back

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Sue Clemenger
Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2004 7:27 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] PLAID


For you? A Houp.  The more nasty fabric, the better! And you could do a
hat picking up one of the more obnoxious tints (I'm envisioning one of
those big, floppy chaperon things that are hoods-with-liripipes turned
sideways).
More me, I think it's got to be that turquoise/pink combination, with a
matching solid color, or course, worked into one of those rare
cotehardie/fitted gowns that have the half-plaid/half solid appearance,
and the plaid's on the bias.  heh, heh, heh....
I'm large enough that it'll look like a fabric store barfed on a couch,
but it'd be great to wear for certain mornings at camping events.....
--sue, in a mood to do something twisted <g>

Stephen Bergdahl wrote:

> Well Teddy said he isn't going to buy some, but I love it too.  So what do
> you all think, Kilt, Houp or an Elizabethan with Purple trim?
>
> Stephen
>

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Hi, I'm new to this list and trying to figure out how to navigate through the archives.  Wow, what a challenge after a long day!

Anyway, I'm looking for suggestions, ideas, or tips for creating acurate bronze age celtic women's clothing.  What I have found so far is vague or general.  I'm wondering what type of stitches would be appropriate, how the seams and hems should lay, what designs might be embroidered onto their garments.  Any info would be helpful.  I see many of you work in the later periods, but I've got my fingers crossed that someone out there has some suggestions.  So far the only thing I can nail down is the peplum or chiton style dress out of wool or linen, of course. Thanks for your thoughts!
Susy
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> Hey Nicole - Yay!  Both back on good ol' H-costume!
> 
> Teddy

Oh, Teddy. I'm sooooo glad you're back with us. I've almost been 
tempted (bad Kat, you don't have time!) to sign onto one of the lists 
you've been on simply because I've missed you.

Welcome, back!

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2004 23:19:49 -0500
Subject: Re: [h-cost] bronze age celts
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Status: RO

Trying to research Bronze Age clothing is definitely a challenge. You'd
do well to look at archeological texts that detail digs at period sites.
Many of the 'Bog People' are from the Bronze or Iron Age and most of them
have some clothing. I'll warn you now, you won't find much concrete on
clothing as there just isn't much out there. You could also look in
Barber's 'Women's Work: The First 20,000 Years'. You could check out 'The
Mummies of Urumchi' which details finds from western China of a group of
possibly Celtic related mummies complete with full suits of clothing. 

Don't assume that embroidery was used as decoration on clothing. To the
best of my knowledge there's no surviving evidence for it from the Bronze
Age. You may not be able to pin the clothing down to anything as specific
as Bronze Age Celt.....you may only get Bronze/Iron Age Nothern European.
And remember that in pre-Roman times, the Celtic world covered much of
Europe- they were everywhere from Spain to Hungary. 


Happy Hunting!


Karen


On Wed, 30 Jun 2004 23:55:48 -0400 "Susy" <pagansoccermom@netzero.net>
writes:
> Hi, I'm new to this list and trying to figure out how to navigate 
> through the archives.  Wow, what a challenge after a long day!
> 
> Anyway, I'm looking for suggestions, ideas, or tips for creating 
> acurate bronze age celtic women's clothing.  What I have found so 
> far is vague or general.  I'm wondering what type of stitches would 
> be appropriate, how the seams and hems should lay, what designs 
> might be embroidered onto their garments.  Any info would be 
> helpful.  I see many of you work in the later periods, but I've got 
> my fingers crossed that someone out there has some suggestions.  So 
> far the only thing I can nail down is the peplum or chiton style 
> dress out of wool or linen, of course. Thanks for your thoughts!
> Susy
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 

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Status: RO

[Sg] Love this image:

> I'm large enough that it'll look like a fabric store barfed on a couch,

[Sg]  I am happy to see some of the old guard back...curious...what made you
leave and then come back?  I know for Teddy it was mail volume...


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From: "Susy" <pagansoccermom@netzero.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20040630.231950.-153453295.1.Seamstrix@juno.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] bronze age celts
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Status: RO

Thanks for the sources.  I'm waiting for my copy of  "women's work" to
arrive, and I'll have to get my hands on a copy of "the mummies".  I've read
several references to the embroidery on their tunics, but that may have been
early iron age.  I've read so much lately I'm starting to see stars!  So I'm
taking what I can find.  I haven't tried "northern European" in my searches,
and I feel pretty foolish!  Thanks for pointing that out.  I've got a small
list of archaeological texts to check out that may prove helpful.  Just
getting impatient to find them.  I wish I could afford to order whatever
suited my fancy and have at my fingertips!  Thank goodness for libraries!!

Thanks for your suggestions!
Susy
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <seamstrix@juno.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2004 12:19 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] bronze age celts


> Trying to research Bronze Age clothing is definitely a challenge. You'd
> do well to look at archeological texts that detail digs at period sites.
> Many of the 'Bog People' are from the Bronze or Iron Age and most of them
> have some clothing. I'll warn you now, you won't find much concrete on
> clothing as there just isn't much out there. You could also look in
> Barber's 'Women's Work: The First 20,000 Years'. You could check out 'The
> Mummies of Urumchi' which details finds from western China of a group of
> possibly Celtic related mummies complete with full suits of clothing.
>
> Don't assume that embroidery was used as decoration on clothing. To the
> best of my knowledge there's no surviving evidence for it from the Bronze
> Age. You may not be able to pin the clothing down to anything as specific
> as Bronze Age Celt.....you may only get Bronze/Iron Age Nothern European.
> And remember that in pre-Roman times, the Celtic world covered much of
> Europe- they were everywhere from Spain to Hungary.
>
>
> Happy Hunting!
>
>
> Karen
>
>
> On Wed, 30 Jun 2004 23:55:48 -0400 "Susy" <pagansoccermom@netzero.net>
> writes:
> > Hi, I'm new to this list and trying to figure out how to navigate
> > through the archives.  Wow, what a challenge after a long day!
> >
> > Anyway, I'm looking for suggestions, ideas, or tips for creating
> > acurate bronze age celtic women's clothing.  What I have found so
> > far is vague or general.  I'm wondering what type of stitches would
> > be appropriate, how the seams and hems should lay, what designs
> > might be embroidered onto their garments.  Any info would be
> > helpful.  I see many of you work in the later periods, but I've got
> > my fingers crossed that someone out there has some suggestions.  So
> > far the only thing I can nail down is the peplum or chiton style
> > dress out of wool or linen, of course. Thanks for your thoughts!
> > Susy
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >
>
> ________________________________________________________________
> The best thing to hit the Internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
> Surf the Web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
> Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!
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>


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Subject: [h-cost] Robe from V&A
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Hi,
I want to make a version of the robe pictured here:
http://images.vam.ac.uk/images/photo/sch/20030411/high/1300-003.jpg
which is described thus:
Object: Robe
Date:18th century
Techniques: Cotton, printed, painted and dyed
Artist/designer: Unknown
Place: Burhanpur, India
Dimensions: Height 105 cm
Museum Number: IM.312-1921

I have not seen a robe like this in my limited experience of 18th century
North American and English clothing, and I don't remember seeing it on my
much-too-brief afternoon at the V&A five years ago.

Unfortunately I just can't see enough in this photo! I can see that the
bodice appears to be pieced; I can see enough to adore the way the diagonal
of the print is used in making the collar; I am envious of the block-printed
ties; I can see where it closes on the right-hand side (obvious on the
bodice, but also apparent in the skirts). What I cannot see is how or where
the bodice is seamed. Is there anyone out there who has seen this garment,
or seen ones like it, who might offer a thought  on this issue?

There are some ways -- the neck line and the way the center front hem hangs
a little shorter than the sides, for insance -- in which it reminds me of
the infamous 18th C Garsault bed gown.  That *could* support the idea that
the top half of the sleeves is cut in one with the bodice -- it looks that
way to me, does it to you? -- which would, in turn, suggest side seams at
the natural side, rather than toward the back. But I really can't tell. Also
can't tell if the bodice back would be pleated.

SO: Does anybody know this garment? Can anyone offer any clues?

Thanks for any light you can shed!
Lauren
-- 
Lauren M. Walker



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Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2004 22:51:04 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] bronze age celts
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Status: RO

I haven't seen the original posting of this, but 
it looks like the whole original is included so I 
won't worry about it.

At 11:19 PM -0500 6/30/04, seamstrix@juno.com wrote:
>On Wed, 30 Jun 2004 23:55:48 -0400 "Susy" <pagansoccermom@netzero.net>
>writes:
>>  Hi, I'm new to this list and trying to figure out how to navigate
>>  through the archives.  Wow, what a challenge after a long day!
>>
>>  Anyway, I'm looking for suggestions, ideas, or tips for creating
>>  acurate bronze age celtic women's clothing.


Do you have a particular archaeologico-cultural 
context in mind as a target?  I ask partly 
because I want to make sure we're working within 
the same definitions of "Bronze Age" and 
"Celtic".  The earliest culture that's pretty 
uniformly agreed-upon as "definitely Celtic" is 
Hallstadt, but it's firmly early Iron Age rather 
than Bronze Age.  While the actual local 
technology is the final arbiter, in Europe you 
generally finding the Bronze Age label fading out 
around 1000 BCE and the Iron Age taking over at 
that point.  The Hallstadt label tends to apply 
from ca. 700-450 BCE and the grave goods 
associated with that culture are solidly Iron 
Age.  There's a general sense that there are 
cultural connections between Hallstadt culture 
and the Bronze Age Urnfield culture ... but 
there's much less agreement that the Urnfield 
culture should be labelled "Celtic" in any 
meaningful sense of the term.  Certainly if 
you're thinking of the cultures associated with 
prototypical "Celtic art", you're thinking of 
Iron Age cultures: Hallstadt or the later La Tene.

If you're looking to work from Urnfield culture, 
then there's next to nothing to work from for 
textiles, as one feature of the culture was 
cremation burials.  On the other hand, there 
_are_ Bronze Age cultures for which we have 
excellent and extensive clothing evidence.  The 
most familiar are the Danish Bronze Age burials 
(with excellent textile preservation due to damp 
and acidic conditions).  But it often gets 
forgotten that much of the early surviving 
Egyptian material is also technically Bronze Age 
(e.g., Tutankhamen).  Since Egyptologists tend to 
date material much more precisely by dynasties 
that only apply locally, it tends to be easy to 
lose track of how that material corresponds to 
the European survivals.  (Tutankhamen is, for all 
practical purposes, a contemporary of the Danish 
burials at Egtved, Trindhoj and Borum Eshoj.) 
I've got an annotated bibliography on the Danish 
Bronze Age material that I've posted previously 
that you might find useful depending on what 
angle you're working on.  (But the extent of 
Urnfield culture doesn't overlap with the Danish 
material, so it would be hard to make even a 
tenuous connection between the Danish material 
and "Celts".)

If you're aiming, instead, at more of a Hallstadt 
target, the evidence is less delightfully 
complete than the earlier Danish material, but 
there's still something to work from.  The two 
types of survivals come from grave goods 
(generally fairly fragmentary and of uncertain 
purpose) and items misplaced in the salt mines 
(generally preserved relatively whole and in good 
condition due to the salt).  An extensive 
discussion of some of the first group can be 
found in:

Banck-Burgess, Johanna.  1999.  Hochdorf IV: Die 
Textilfunde aus dem späthallstattzeitlichen 
Fürstengrab von Eberdingen-Hochdorf (Kreis 
Ludwigsburg) und weitere Grabtextilien aus 
Hallstatt- und latènezeitlichen Kulturgruppen. 
Konrad Theiss Verlag, Stuttgart.  ISBN 
3-8062-1453-0

I don't know of a good single source for the salt 
mine finds, but I've run into individual 
descriptive articles on some of them.  I hesitate 
to start dumping extensive lists of publications 
yet, until I have a more certain idea of which 
items are going to come closest to your 
interests.  Much of the published material is on 
relatively small fragments that shed light on 
textile technology but don't provide much 
information on clothing structures.

Moving more into the La Tene era for the Celts 
(i.e., roughly 5th c. BCE to 1st c. CE) we again 
hit the question of "who gets to be a Celt". 
There's a delightful amount of surviving Iron Age 
clothing from what is now northern Germany (see 
e.g. Karl Schlabow's exhaustive "Textilfunde der 
Eisenzeit"), although largely from the first few 
centuries CE rather than what would correspond to 
the earlier part of La Tene culture.  But whether 
this material could reasonably be called "Celtic" 
is open for enthusiastic debate.


>   What I have found so
>>  far is vague or general.  I'm wondering what type of stitches would
>  > be appropriate, how the seams and hems should lay,


The micro-structure -- weave types and seam types 
-- is better evidenced than the macro-structure 
(clothing cuts/designs).


>  what designs
>>  might be embroidered onto their garments.  Any info would be
>>  helpful.  I see many of you work in the later periods, but I've got
>>  my fingers crossed that someone out there has some suggestions.  So
>>  far the only thing I can nail down is the peplum or chiton style
>  > dress out of wool or linen, of course. Thanks for your thoughts!

Your mention of the peplum/chiton style suggests 
that the image you have in mind is inspired by 
Iron Age styles rather than Bronze Age styles. 
Evidence for this style of garment comes largely 
from the placement of brooches/fasteners relative 
to skeletons in graves.  There is one surviving 
tubular garment that most likely represents this 
style, however it is generally dated to the 1st 
c. CE and comes once again from Denmark.

I'd be delighted to provide some lists of useful 
publications once I have a better idea of the 
target.

Heather
-- 
****
Heather Rose Jones
heather.jones@earthlink.net
****

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