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Subject: [h-cost] Straight trim, curved places
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Hi all,

New question for those of you who have worked with trims a lot. I tend to 
work with cording and other forms of decoration, so I haven't done much 
with wider trims.

I am trying to figure out how to make a wide 2.5" Jacquard trim go around 
curves? The trim is not very stretchy, and I would like for it to go around 
the bottom of a man's base. I am making my husband a Henry VIII style 
doublet with attached base, and the base is a circle skirt that I will 
organ pleat into place.

I am also hoping to make it go around the shallow curve around the neck and 
tummy areas.

Any suggestions? Or would it be better to find/make a bias trim instead?

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

Kimiko

Kimiko Small
Owner ~ DreamTime Studios
http://www.dreamtime-studios.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] standards of reply (was: breast exposure article)
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At 11:48 PM 8/31/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>I'm going to jump in on this volatile band wagon with this there *is*
>places on the web with guidelines and some of them are very old
>ancient documents written by the elders of the internet (well that's
>my tongue in cheek statement anyhow)
>Please see:
>http://www.cse.ohio-state.edu/cgi-bin/rfc/rfc1855.html
>http://groups.google.com/groups?selm=Cv8JK7.2xI%40deshaw.com
>http://www.cse.ohio-state.edu/cs/Services/rfc/index.html
>http://www.cse.ohio-state.edu/cgi-bin/rfc/rfc1855.html
>http://c2.com/cgi/wiki?TrimYourPosts


I admit, I stand corrected, as I was not specific about guidelines. There 
are indeed Internet guidelines, but as the first link states in the first 
sentence (also found under the third link): "This memo does not specify an 
Internet *standard* of any kind" (emphasis mine).

Ah, and link #3 led me to a friend's favorite corollary, just for the 
amusement factor:
(3) With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. However, this is not 
necessarily a good idea. It is hard to be sure where they are going to 
land, and it could be dangerous sitting under them as they fly overhead.
I also do not mean this to be in any way something volatile. We can try to 
follow guidelines best we can, such as clipping for bandwidth control (see 
link #5, TrimYourPosts), which I heartily support especially for the short 
"me too" type comments after long entries, but we can in no way really make 
everyone follow one set of "standards" in how we reply to a comment. I do 
agree to general Netiquette, which hopefully we can all learn and follow to 
one degree or another.

Viva le difference!

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Owner ~ DreamTime Studios
http://www.dreamtime-studios.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Straight trim, curved places
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>I am trying to figure out how to make a wide 2.5" Jacquard trim go around 
curves? The trim is not very stretchy, and I would like for it to go around 
the bottom of a man's base. I am making my husband a Henry VIII style 
doublet with attached base, and the base is a circle skirt that I will 
organ pleat into place.

The last time I applied trim around curves was with a cotton-based trim on a
tunic neckline.  I steamed and pressed it on only one edge and it developed
the curve I was looking for.  Takes a lot of patience, but it can be done.
It didn't give me any trouble after washing it, either.  I don't think this
will work with synthetic trims (not sure what you're using), but you can try
it. Of course, bias tape is always the easiest route!

Becky


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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Parental sewing issues : was baggy pants
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<snip>
> (heck, I remember opening up the side seams of the ones we thought
> weren't wide enough, and adding wedges of fabric--either matching or
> contrasting)
<snip>
A girl at my school did much the same thing, but she didn't unpick the seam,
no, she just cut a slit roughly parallel with the seam outside leg seam on a
pair of relatively new quite good looking black trousers. She then sewed a
contrasting triangular wedge in to the slit but she didn't do a proper seam
so the raw edge of the trousers was showing over the contrasting panel, but
she was happy with it so I didn't make a fuss about certainly a lot of her
friends were cooing about how good it would look when she went out clubbing
and what a good job she had done. So I assume she was happy with it.
Elizabeth
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
Elizabeth Beaumont              Elizabeth Walpole
Politarchopolis, Lochac     Canberra Australia
             ewalpole@austar.net.au

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 06:51:38 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] pattern for jacket?
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Here's a site selling repro patterns. Two patterns you may wish to look  
at would be 201 and 101. I've never used them, but word-of-mouth is  
that they're good.

http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/patterns/index.html

Hope this helps.

Laurie



On Tuesday, August 31, 2004, at 10:50 PM, h-costume-request@indra.com  
wrote:

>
>> Does anyone know of an available pattern for a jacket like the one  
>> below?
>>
>> http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/collection/news/acquisitions/ 
>> beuck4.htm
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> **********************
>> Rebecca Schmitt
> -- 

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From: Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
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Thanks!

Yes I made her headdress.
I made two little horns from leather and buckram.
They are attached to a linnen 4cm wide headband.
In the original veils the ruffels are woven in but that is a little hard 
to do.
So I sewed a small ruffle to the edge of the veil.
Te veil is attached to the points of the horns, just beside the horns 
and in the middle of the forehead to the linnen band.
I put a picture up that shows the veil a bit better.
http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade/CostumeG/15thDress.html

Greetings,
        Deredere

Gail & Scott Finke wrote:

>Derdere:
>
>Those look great! No wonder they are pleased. Did you make the lady's
>headdress too? How does it work?
>
>Gail Finke
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
>  
>



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On Wednesday 01 September 2004 5:12 am, Elizabeth Walpole wrote:

> <snip>
> A girl at my school did much the same thing, but she didn't unpick the
> seam, no, she just cut a slit roughly parallel with the seam outside leg
> seam on a pair of relatively new quite good looking black trousers. She
> then sewed a contrasting triangular wedge in to the slit but she didn't do
> a proper seam so the raw edge of the trousers was showing over the
> contrasting panel, but she was happy with it so I didn't make a fuss about
> certainly a lot of her friends were cooing about how good it would look
> when she went out clubbing and what a good job she had done. So I assume
> she was happy with it. Elizabeth

Presumably she got the effect she wanted.  That's one of the major tests of a 
good costume, isn't it?  :-)

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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On Wednesday 01 September 2004 6:43 am, Deredere Galbraith wrote:
> Thanks!
>
> Yes I made her headdress.
> I made two little horns from leather and buckram.
> They are attached to a linnen 4cm wide headband.

That looks so much like the period examples!  Well done!
-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Straight trim, curved places
Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 11:46:51 +0000
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I've used two different application techniques:  1) the tuck and small pleating (the depth of pleast depending on the trim but usually not more than 1/4")  at *regular* intervals and 2) doing a long basting or running stitch at the inside curved edge.  The first one I use when I need to go around a very tight curve or the trim is *very* wide and I need to go around even a small curve.  The second one I use for the trim and curving requirements that will benefit from the gentle curving that happens when the basting thread is pulled.  
In both techniques, generous and careful steam pressing can make the trim lie more smoothly in the curve.  Be very careful of any "mylar/metallic" and Rayon/Acetate content!  Use extreme caution or you'll end up with shrivelled bits of scorched trim.
I'm looking forward to learning more techniques too!
I hope this helps!  Good luck!
--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 
Emer's Needle Wares


-------------- Original message -------------- 

> 
> >I am trying to figure out how to make a wide 2.5" Jacquard trim go around 
> curves? The trim is not very stretchy, and I would like for it to go around 
> the bottom of a man's base. I am making my husband a Henry VIII style 
> doublet with attached base, and the base is a circle skirt that I will 
> organ pleat into place. 
> 
> The last time I applied trim around curves was with a cotton-based trim on a 
> tunic neckline. I steamed and pressed it on only one edge and it developed 
> the curve I was looking for. Takes a lot of patience, but it can be done. 
> It didn't give me any trouble after washing it, either. I don't think this 
> will work with synthetic trims (not sure what you're using), but you can try 
> it. Of course, bias tape is always the easiest route! 
> 
> Becky 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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Kimiko Small wrote:

> I admit, I stand corrected, as I was not specific about guidelines. 
> There are indeed Internet guidelines, but as the first link states in 
> the first sentence (also found under the third link): "This memo does 
> not specify an Internet *standard* of any kind" (emphasis mine).

In the tech world, the term "standard" means a very specific thing, 
agreed on by parties who make different computing platforms and 
software, not the way the rest of the world uses it. There are large 
conferences and discussion groups who hammer these things out so that 
everyone's stuff will work with everyone else's; the IETF, for example.

It's sort of like a traffic law (and some companies violate them even 
so).  So the guidelines aren't a standard in that sense, which is why 
they say it isn't, I think.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

If they keep adding obscure sports to the Olympics, it's only a matter 
of time before somebody gets a gold medal for making balloon animals. I 
think they should combine some of these sports. Like, they could combine 
fencing and trampoline into one sport, called ''fampoline.'' I'd pay 
good money to see that.  -- Dave Barry
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I now have a second personal email address I can receive email at:  ggavino@myuw.net
Please feel free to add to your address book!

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 
Emer's Needle Wares
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Straight trim, curved places
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In a message dated 9/1/2004 1:21:12 AM Mountain Daylight Time, 
kimiko@kimiko1.com writes:
I am also hoping to make it go around the shallow curve around the neck and 
tummy areas.

Any suggestions? Or would it be better to find/make a bias trim instead?

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.
You could either lay a basting stitch around the inner edge (the edge of the 
curve you want to be smaller) and pull it up to fit before sewing it down or 
you could make tiny darts in the areas where it seems to be called for.  The 
neck will probably have to be a combination of both, as it is more curved.  The 
darts are tricky, as if they are too big, they will produce a small angle at 
the point, which destroys the curve you wish to achieve.  Some trims can be 
steamed into a curved shape, depends on how they're made.  If your trim doesn't 
have a bound edge, I suggest you try that, too.  Cheryl Odom
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In a message dated 8/31/2004 10:37:26 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
lotsofteapots@charter.net writes:

> But again, no
> seams shown anywhere (no side, no back, no side back, not even shoulders!)
> I'm pretty certain it would be impossible to get a jacket cut out in one
> piece ;-) so any suggestions are great.

I wouldn't angst over seam placement that much. You know [or can find out] 
where the seams in such garments usually go and putting them there, even if they 
are not depicted in a painting, is not being historically inaccurate. In the 
painting posted, there is a seam at the waist. You can see it.
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I'm getting the sense (from my post last night, and the responses) that, 
  like most people, we all seem to prefer what we're most accustomed to 
using! Both of the email programs I use (netscape at home and outlook at 
work) default to the top-down.  It's only when I'm replying to a message 
done in some sort of enriched text format (when you get all the fancy 
fonts and such) that I find it easy to intersperse my responses with the 
original posts.
Robin had a good point about business correspondence--that was indeed my 
first exposure to email (and I'm not on any usenet group that I know of 
<g>).  If you're canny, at my company, you always include the entire 
text of the previous message, so it took me a while to get the hang of 
this cutting out of the extraneous bits!
--sue, trying and failing to find OCC for this!


Wanda Pease wrote:
> I use Outlook both at work and here at home.  I read most of my mail via the
> preview page, and it drives me nuts when someone has a one liner reply to a
> long post and puts it at the bottom.  I have to scroll through everything,
> and just to add insult to injury the reply line is right at the bottom of
> the quoted passage making it hard to find (grumble, waste of time, grumble
> :-).
> 
> I think Kimiko has the answer that our tastes are formed by the particular
> browser we are using so one size just isn't going to fit us all here either!

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Straight trim, curved places
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> I am trying to figure out how to make a wide 2.5" Jacquard trim go around
> curves? The trim is not very stretchy, and I would like for it to go
around
> the bottom of a man's base.
> I am also hoping to make it go around the shallow curve around the neck
and
> tummy areas.

Someone showed me an example where trim was pleated (actually, I think it
was velvet ribbon, but it was a b&w photocopy) to create a design on the
ground fabric. Think vines or scrolls, usual drapery designs, but made with
ribbon. It was surprising to see pleating used that way.

I think you could do the same thing with your trim and actually pleat it
where it's too wide to go around the curve.
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <da.12fd243a.2e672d1a@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Straight trim, curved places
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2004 09:39:48 -0500
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Even with the poly/acetate/etc trims, I've had some luck with ironing into
shape. I use the lowest possible setting, and a pressing cloth, and press
the back side ofthe trim; by pulling to one side I can get a pretty
impressive curve. However, I don't work with trim that much, so I've only
tried it on a few ~1" pieces for necklines. I hope it works for 3+" trim,
because I'm planning on making a copy of a Waterhouse Pre-Raph gown, and
right now I'm thinking of using a 5 1/2" trim for it--oy. This is a topical
thread for me! =}

-E

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From: "lisa-list" <lisa-list@thrednedlestrete.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] standards of reply
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2004 07:51:07 -0700
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Sue wrote:

>I'm getting the sense (from my post last night, and the responses) that,
  like most people, we all seem to prefer what we're most accustomed to
using!

Personally, I'm just greatful that some people take the time out of their
busy lives to reply and share such wonderful information regardless of the
form they decide to put it in.  I have higher standards in my professinal
life, but I don't sit around judging the email formats of posters.  It's
really not all that hard for me to scroll up, down etc.

Lisa Sinervo


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Subject: [h-cost] RE: standards of reply (was: breast exposure article) 
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> >A side note, not on this topic: Those of you who are relatively new to
> >email discussions may not know that it is standard to put comments and
> >replies under what you're replying to (if you quote it at all).  Having
> >your bit on top can be confusing, because it's harder to follow the flow
> >of discussion.
> >Cynthia Virtue and/or

I have to say that while -I- prefer interlining my responses with the 
various quotations, I have learned that many mailers automatically force 
top-posting, and it is strongly encouraged by by many (generally the same 
people IMO who get fussy about interlining because it's so easy for the 
unscrupulous to quote out of context.  Top posting does have the theoretical 
benefit of retaining contextual integrity, while making it so that you don't 
have to scroll through the entire history of the discussion unless you want 
to, or are taking the digest format.

Having spent now over a quarter of my life top posting, I'm not inclined to 
change it, but I do recognize that it is likely to change around me.

Marc

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Straight trim, curved places
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On Wed, 1 Sep 2004, E House wrote:

> I'm planning on making a copy of a Waterhouse Pre-Raph gown, and right
> now I'm thinking of using a 5 1/2" trim for it--oy. This is a topical
> thread for me! =}

Assuming you haven't already bought your trim: I've found a workable way
to get the effect of very wide trims is to use several compatible narrower
trims. For instance, put a narrow trim along the edge, then a wider trim
just beyond that, then the narrow trim outside that one. If you don't
leave any of the ground fabric showing, the result can look like a single
wide band of trim, but without the problem of trying to warp it into place
around a curve. You can use as many layers as you need, e.g. two narrow,
one wider, two narrow.

--Robin


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From: Brenda Bell <webwarren@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Straight trim, curved places
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At Wed, 01 Sep 2004 00:19:27 -0700, Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com> wrote:

>I am trying to figure out how to make a wide 2.5" Jacquard trim go around 
>curves?

It doesn't work too well for sharp curves, but one method is to sew a long 
gathering thread at one edge of the trim. This edge of the trim will go 
along the smaller side of the curve.

Sew/baste the other edge of the trim to the outside/larger edge of the 
curve. Pin-baste the inside edge, placing the pins perpendicular to the 
edge of the trim. Draw up the gathering thread until the inside edge of the 
trim fits the smaller side of the curve. Sew/baste, and (if the trim will 
support it), steam it to set.

On a compound ("s") curve, sew gathering threads along both edges and treat 
the same way.

For more information on this technique, look up "heirloom sewing" 
techniques for "insertion lace".




Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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> 
> I'm definitely eyeing the Bolivian
> Milkmaid jacket, as there seems to be a view on that pattern that gives a
> bit of flare without inserted gores, like the Jacobean jackets use.

That was the pattern I started with. I raised the neckline, and made 
straight tube sleeves that were a couple inches too long so they could 
be folded back to show the lining. I put in three tiny pleats in the 
back of the sleeve at the shoulder.  If I had it to do over again I 
would make wider sleeves. I made them a little on the narrow side 
because it was for winter and I didn't want cold air on my wrists, but 
they turned to be too snug when I folded back the cuff.

I left the back gussets according to the pattern, and it wasn't as full 
as you'd think, made in wool, once I got it on over full skirts. There 
was a noticeable flare to it, but it wasn't overly ruffled.

If you have never made this pattern, beware the instructions. They have 
you turning pieces inside out and upside down, and doing 
right-side/wrong-side things very strangely to end up with completely 
hidden enclosed seams all the way around, and it can get very confusing, 
especially if you are altering the pattern.

> 
> Does anyone have other pictorial instances where this sort of jacket is
> worn? 

I found a lot of images online and in my books, but I didn't keep track 
of specific sites or titles. Once you start looking you will find them 
everywhere.




> On colder mornings I was thinking a jacket would be easier to work in than a
> cloak. 

My jacket was so lovely at the winter event I wore it to. I thought I 
might be too hot indoors, but I wasn't. I could just open the front 
hooks to 'vent'.

I also had a black wool partlet to cover my neck and shoulders, since 
there is no collar on the jacket.



Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] standards of reply
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Frankly, I don't care if it is on the top or on the bottom, so long as 
it is clearly marked with quotes or >> or some other method and I can 
tell who said what. I would much prefer that folks put effort into 
editing or clipping the relevant parts of the post they are replying to, 
rather than copy 150 lines of preceeding text into their reply. My 
mailreader only shows the first 15 lines of a message, and if I see more 
than two indented quotes, or evidence that the message wasn't edited for 
a reply, I just keep going without bothering to read it.



Dawn


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Subject: [h-cost] RE: OT: standards of reply
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I'm continually amazed by the people who flatly declare "top posting is rude" simply because that is what they've been told -- without taking into account any of the other factors that have been listed: varying levels of e-mail experience, the biases of one's software, et cetera. For some people it seems to have become a "religious" issue, i.e. a firmly held belief not subject to rational discussion, rather like Mac versus PC or Opera versus any other browser <grin>.

But then (dragging the subject kicking and screaming back to costume!) it seems to be much the same phenomenon as the bullies who think nothing of walking up to a complete stranger and telling them their Viking or Romanian or Elizabethan garb is "wrong."

The tendency to self-righteously correct others seems to be a common human thing :) Who was it said they were convinced humans invented language so that we could complain??!?!



____________________________________________________________
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|  <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
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Subject: [h-cost] Trim around curves
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<Sew/baste the other edge of the trim to the outside/larger edge of the
<curve. Pin-baste the inside edge, placing the pins perpendicular to the
<edge of the trim. Draw up the gathering thread until the inside edge of the
<trim fits the smaller side of the curve. Sew/baste, and (if the trim will
<support it), steam it to set.

This is sort-of what I do, but a little differently:

Before applying the trim, measure the spot where you want it to be, both 
sides; that will let you know where you need to get to.  Gather one side of 
the trim with a long basting stitch (hand or machine, your choice) and 
gently steam/press that side, working it "inward" and shrinking it to your 
specifications.  Steam/press the other side of the trim, stretching it to 
fit.

This can be a long process, but if you take it slowly and carefully you can 
avoid (or have minimal) distortion of the trim design.  When you have it to 
your measurements, let it dry *completely* and remove the basting.  It 
should now fit without any trouble.  Make sure you sew it on securely to 
preserve the shaping.

The success of this method depends on several factors (fiber content, 
density of the trim's weave, thickness, etc.) but I have had surprisingly 
good results with trims that at first glance didn't seem all that promising.

Good luck!

Richard


"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will annoy 
enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] standards of reply 
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Greetings,

This was the topic of a discussion on another list I'm on just last 
week that nearly ended in a flame war.  One poster went so far as to 
say he deleted any top posted email without reading.  Of course, that 
didn't stop him from replying to nearly every post on the subject, 
regardless of top/bottom-ness.  The top/bottom posting debate has near 
religious adherents and is about as pointless as the Mac/PC, Coke/Pepsi 
or Britanny/Christina debate.  There is no one standard for email, 
e-mail, or Email.

I top post.  I prefer it for emails where I am replying to one point.  
If I am replying to several points, I interleave my replies.  I can be 
flexible, unless someone tries to impose a "standard".  I'm a rebel 
that way.  :D

It is far more important to clip and trim your replies.  Top/bottom 
posting is a personal matter of taste, a function of the email program, 
or a product of indoctrination.  It is not something to get one's 
knickers in a twist about.

OBLIGATORY COSTUME REFERENCE:  Where did the phrase, "Knickers in a 
twist" originate?

Althea


On Tuesday, August 31, 2004, at 08:20 PM, Kimiko Small wrote:

> At 08:03 PM 8/31/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>> A side note, not on this topic: Those of you who are relatively new 
>> to email discussions may not know that it is standard to put comments 
>> and replies under what you're replying to (if you quote it at all).  
>> Having your bit on top can be confusing, because it's harder to 
>> follow the flow of discussion.
>>
>> --
>> Cynthia Virtue and/or
>> Cynthia du Pré Argent


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Chris Laning wrote:

> I'm continually amazed by the people who flatly declare "top posting
> is rude" simply because that is what they've been told

I hope my short note did not come across that way; I was hoping to 
gently educate if people did not know, not to castigate if it was a 
stylistic choice.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent
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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] standards of reply
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My response to all attempted email "standardization" is:

When someone wants me to write in a particular style, and/or requires me 
to proofread, and/or requires me to use certain graphic design 
standards--they pay me.

If they're not paying me, I'm making a voluntary contribution on my own 
time for group benefit, and/or for my own personal recreation.  Then I 
get to write the document as I please. 

Anyone dissatisfied with that is welcome to pay me as above.

Work is one thing, a hobby email list is another.

Fran Grimble
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com



>
>
>
> I top post.  I prefer it for emails where I am replying to one point.  
> If I am replying to several points, I interleave my replies.  I can be 
> flexible, unless someone tries to impose a "standard".  I'm a rebel 
> that way.  :D
>
> It is far more important to clip and trim your replies.  Top/bottom 
> posting is a personal matter of taste, a function of the email 
> program, or a product of indoctrination.  It is not something to get 
> one's knickers in a twist about.
>
> OBLIGATORY COSTUME REFERENCE:  Where did the phrase, "Knickers in a 
> twist" originate?
>
> Althea
>
>
> On Tuesday, August 31, 2004, at 08:20 PM, Kimiko Small wrote:
>
>> At 08:03 PM 8/31/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>>
>>> A side note, not on this topic: Those of you who are relatively new 
>>> to email discussions may not know that it is standard to put 
>>> comments and replies under what you're replying to (if you quote it 
>>> at all).  Having your bit on top can be confusing, because it's 
>>> harder to follow the flow of discussion.
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> Cynthia Virtue and/or
>>> Cynthia du Pré Argent
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
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Subject: [h-cost] Hero: love the silk
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I can't comment on the historical accuracy (don't know enough about 
Chinese clothing 2,000+ years ago!) but if you love silk check out 
images from the movie "Hero"
http://outnow.ch/Media/Img/2002/Hero/

Better yet, go see the film. All that gorgeous fabric fluttering and 
swirling and falling. Unbelievable! And the colors--Zhang does it like 
nobody else...

- Hope



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Straight trim, curved places
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>

> Assuming you haven't already bought your trim: I've found a workable way
> to get the effect of very wide trims is to use several compatible narrower
> trims.

I have been thinking of doing that--I'm doing that on another gown,
actually, with 2 strips of 3/8" trim on either side of ~1" trim, and a 1/8"
space in between each which makes a nifty addition to the effect. (Another
Pre-Raph gown. Not terribly much use for trim in the sorts of historical
dresses I like, which I sometimes regret!)

But sigh, on this one it may not work. Even though it's a Pre-Raph dress,
which means accuracy is pretty much pointless, I'm trying to stay as
faithful to the painting itself as possible--it's Waterhouse's 1910 Ophelia
(which for a P-R painting, is almost vaguely like something that might have
actually happened, if you squint hard and ignore certain elements:
http://www.illusionsgallery.com/ophelia-1910.html ) and at the bottom of her
gown there's about ~8" of gold trim, with very large emblems that can't be
divided vertically. What I _should_ do is find some gold fabric with a
similar design, but I've been looking and I can't!


-E House
Liberty in Our Lifetime - www.freestateproject.org

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hero: love the silk
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Hope Greenberg"

> I can't comment on the historical accuracy (don't know enough about
> Chinese clothing 2,000+ years ago!) but if you love silk check out
> images from the movie "Hero"
> http://outnow.ch/Media/Img/2002/Hero/
>
> Better yet, go see the film. All that gorgeous fabric fluttering and
> swirling and falling. Unbelievable! And the colors--Zhang does it like
> nobody else...
>
> - Hope

The imagery was stunning!

Did you also notice the different coloured costumes were identical for each
character? If you look, the fabric for each outfit was the same, check out
the collars, same leaf-like pattern in the weave of the silk. mmmmmmmm  :-)

The minute I got home I started to check out Chinese paintings on the 'net,
it *looks* like they at least accomplished the right feel for the period, if
not actual authenticity.

As a result of my snooping around the net, I now have yet another outfit to
add to my 'to do' list. Its a Tang Dynasty (500-600 ad) court outfit, which
looks for all the world like an Edwardian Art-Nouveau gown...

Sheridan


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What a beautiful dress! However, it looks to me like a wide strip of gold
fabric with emblems embroidered onto it. Then again, it's a painting AND a
modern allegory, and you can see whatever you please. It's not as if there's
really THAT dress in a museum somewhere. It's in the eye of the artist,
either Waterhouse or you.

My millinery class final every year is to find a picture of a hat and
reproduce it as closely as possible. Proportion is the most important thing
to reproduce; after that it's all up to the milliner's view. I've seen three
different people reproduce the same hat in the same class and they all saw
something different. And each one was a perfect reproduction!

LynnD

> From: E House <formfunc@formfunction.org>
> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2004 13:38:29 -0500
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Straight trim, curved places
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
> 
>> Assuming you haven't already bought your trim: I've found a workable way
>> to get the effect of very wide trims is to use several compatible narrower
>> trims.
> 
> I have been thinking of doing that--I'm doing that on another gown,
> actually, with 2 strips of 3/8" trim on either side of ~1" trim, and a 1/8"
> space in between each which makes a nifty addition to the effect. (Another
> Pre-Raph gown. Not terribly much use for trim in the sorts of historical
> dresses I like, which I sometimes regret!)
> 
> But sigh, on this one it may not work. Even though it's a Pre-Raph dress,
> which means accuracy is pretty much pointless, I'm trying to stay as
> faithful to the painting itself as possible--it's Waterhouse's 1910 Ophelia
> (which for a P-R painting, is almost vaguely like something that might have
> actually happened, if you squint hard and ignore certain elements:
> http://www.illusionsgallery.com/ophelia-1910.html ) and at the bottom of her
> gown there's about ~8" of gold trim, with very large emblems that can't be
> divided vertically. What I _should_ do is find some gold fabric with a
> similar design, but I've been looking and I can't!
> 
> 
> -E House
> Liberty in Our Lifetime - www.freestateproject.org
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Straight trim, curved places
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Status: RO

> actually happened, if you squint hard and ignore certain elements:
> http://www.illusionsgallery.com/ophelia-1910.html ) and at the bottom of
her
> gown there's about ~8" of gold trim, with very large emblems that can't be
> divided vertically. What I _should_ do is find some gold fabric with a
> similar design, but I've been looking and I can't!
> 
> 

To me, the bottom of this gown reminds me of sari fabric.  You could try
stenciling/painting the design on -- if I remember correctly, I've heard
that was done as far back as the Tudor era.


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From: "Lynn Downward" <ldownward@chori.org>
> What a beautiful dress! However, it looks to me like a wide strip of gold
> fabric with emblems embroidered onto it. Then again, it's a painting AND a
> modern allegory, and you can see whatever you please. It's not as if
there's
> really THAT dress in a museum somewhere. It's in the eye of the artist,
> either Waterhouse or you.

But that _is_ what I see! =}

> > What I _should_ do is find some gold fabric with a
> > similar design, but I've been looking and I can't!

Especially since you can see the back side of the trim in question, and it
matches/is the reverse to the trim as seen from the front. (And for this
sense of trim, I include fabric.)

My problem is finding any fabric anything whatsoever like that. Very
frustrating, especially since this sort of fabric is so familiar to my eye
that it seems like I should be able to find a never-ending supply, but... no
such luck! And since it's a P-R dress, I'm even willing to go with modern
fibers, but still, no luck. With non-fabric trim, at least I can find
similar designs, which is why I'm considering it--not because I think that's
what Waterhouse is trying to depict.

-E

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Subject: Re: Re[2]: [h-cost] OT (slightly): transferring pattern markings to
	fabric
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Status: RO

Thanks for that suggestion, what a practical, common sense solution!
Susy
suggested.  Use
> the tracing wheel once to make holes in the pattern.  Then, when you
> need to use the pattern, use a chalk bag to make the marking onto the
> fabric, then use running stitches to make it last.  This way you only
> make the holes once in the pattern.
> 
> This is an old practice to transfer embroidery patterns to fabric.
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Best regards,
> Jonica
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> 
> 

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Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 01:21:14 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Italian Dress 1570-80s (was Pregnancy
	dressdocumentation1550-1600?)
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>> >Agreed.  Perhaps the height of the neckline will turn out to be a major
>> >clue.  :-)
>>
>> Vecellio has opinions on this, and he's a few hundred years closer to the
>> originals than we are.  I'd look there first, and see if I could
>> extrapolate something from his images.
>
>Indeed.  I didn't mean to suggest otherwise.

I probably should have said "We could look there, and see if we could
extrapolate...")

       CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
         www.FunStuft.com

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> > Meanwhile, I dye my teenager's (male) hair  magenta and 
> > black and am  thankful that hair replaces itself and that he 
> > is getting really good  grades and staying out of trouble.
> 
> Cheryl, I agree with you wholeheartedly except about that 
> last bit.  He wants  his hair magenta?  Let him do it himself!  :-)

Perhaps it's a reciprocal arrangement and he helps her when she's doing
stuff that's easier to do with help....?

My father threw me out when I was in my late teens and dyed my hair....
What a stupid attitude to take - it's my hair not his. 

I may not like all/some of the styles that current teens are sporting,
but it's their choice.  Just becasue I hate them and/or think they look
awful or stupid, I'm not about to tell them they can't wear them.
Similarly, they want to pierce their ears (or other parts  - the thought
of which makes me shudder) then so long as it's done safely with sterile
equipment, let 'em (I draw the line at the more dangerous areas where
getting it in the wrong place can cause nerve damage and paralysis)
since it doesn't do them any harm.  I got one ear pierced when I was a
teenager and the toehr in my early 20's and that's as far as I
want/wanted to go.  My mother pierced my sisters ears for them when they
were teenagers (well, one sister with a sterile needle and one ear on
the other sister who fainted and had the other one done at a shop.
Years later the second sister had a second set of ear piercings done).

A couple of years ago, my godson (then aged six) wanted blue hair so I
dyed it blue and spiked it for him.  When he went home the other kids
thought it was great and his mother wanted hers dyed blue.  By the time
it lost it's novelty value, it faded and grew out, though he had to wear
his coif/hat pulled down low at the next re-enactment event so it
wouldn't show.  He hasn't asked me to do it again, though he knows I
have more dye.  I'd do the same for his little sister if she ever wants
me to, or my other goddaughter.

I came through schools that were unneccesarily sexist and racist as to
dress codes (as well as subjects taught).  School uniforms were bad
enough.  Contrary to the "great equaliser" theory everybody knew which
kids were from poor families and wearing second hand and hand-me-down
uniforms and which kids were from rich enough families to have new ones
each term.  rules on hair and jewelry made it worse...

I well remember the frustrated anger at the unfairness of girls being
allowed to have long hair (and earrings) and boys not, and of white
girls being allowed to wear their long hair down and black girls having
to wear it up.  One memorable occasion saw a black girl  sent home
because she came to school with her hair down and refused to put it up
while there were two white girls sitting at the same table with longer
hair which they were wearing loose and it was not remarked upon.   Much
as I hated that girl (she was a bully and I was a frequent victim) I was
angered by the unfairness of the situation.  Mind you, I was also
angered by the unfairness of her getting away with hitting me and me
being severely punished for hitting her back because, "boys shouldn't
hit girls even if the girls hit them first" - what a crock of shit -
anyone who hits anyone is asking to be hit back  regardless of the
gender of those involved.

Teddy
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Date: Thu, 02 Sep 2004 12:53:13 +0100
From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1920s baggy trousers
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> I was at Sears once, walking behind a teen wearing the modern loose
trousers.  
> He walked right out of them, and made a hasty grab before  they
reached his 
> knees.
> 
> It took a heroic effort for me not to collapse in hysterical 
> laughter.  <ggg>

Michelle, I'd have just laughed myself senseless.  Just because I
wouldn't tell them not to wear that style, doesn't mean I would hold
back on laughing at it.

Teddy
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Subject: [h-cost] v-neck gowns
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Forwarded from another list:

----- Original Message ----- 
From: Marianne Perdomo Machin 
To: 15thCenturyEurope@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2004 4:10 AM
Subject: [15thCenturyEurope] burgundian gown "trim" question


Greetings!

Lots of nice-sounding projects! That wedding sounds absolutely great!!

I have a question about the burgundian/flemish/whatever/V-necked 
style. I'm trying to get something like:

http://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/sca/15th/ainsworthp133.jpg

And I wonder... do you think it more likely that the fur around the 
neckline (or velvet or whatever) is more likely to be:
- a trim, just sewn onto the dress
- or something turned-back similar to a modern jackets' lapel

Any help will be much appreciated!


Marianne


Group homepage:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/15thCenturyEurope/


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In a message dated 9/2/2004 8:22:40 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
formfunc@formfunction.org writes:

> And I wonder... do you think it more likely that the fur around the 
> neckline (or velvet or whatever) is more likely to be:
> - a trim, just sewn onto the dress
> - or something turned-back similar to a modern jackets' lapel
> 

Look at the hem and the cuffs too. The gown is lined with grey fur.
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Date: Thu, 02 Sep 2004 09:06:12 -0400
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Subject: O/T Re: bullies (WAS: RE:  [h-cost] Teen styles (WAS:Pants
	below the crotch))
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On 9/2/2004, Teddy wrote:

>...Mind you, I was also angered by the unfairness of [a female classmate] 
>getting away with hitting me and me
>being severely punished for hitting her back because, "boys shouldn't hit 
>girls even if the girls hit them first" - what a crock of shit -
>anyone who hits anyone is asking to be hit back  regardless of the gender 
>of those involved

Interestingly, I had the problem a bit in reverse. When I got into Junior 
High, a couple of boys in my class decided they'd have sport by pinching me 
where/when I sat down, poking my breasts with rulers, and other such sexual 
harassment. My father *insisted* that I fight back by kicking these boys in 
the genitals. I tried this approach (unsuccessfully, mind you!) and was 
taken kicking and screaming, a teacher holding each limb, to the 
principal's office. Their take was that since I was a top student 
academically, I should NEVER fight back and I should ALWAYS let the 
teachers handle it. (The teachers handled it by ignoring it, or telling me 
I was BSsing them, or -- rarely -- telling the boys to stop which of course 
they didn't.)

BTW, this was a sort of continuation of how they treated ALL girls they 
took to be from "the right side of the tracks" since the earliest levels of 
elementary school. Tell me I didn't grow up learning how to be anything 
OTHER than a victim???????



Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
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> I have to say that while -I- prefer interlining my responses with the 
> various quotations,

Me too - particularly in mail I recdeive otherwise I haven't much hope
of following what it's about without a lot of scrolling up and down and
trying to find/figure out the bits they are responding to.

> I have learned that many mailers automatically force  top-posting,

Yep - my employers just switched to a system that does that  (the
previous e-system didn't) and I hate it.  It's awful and clunky to use
and also doesn't allow you to select the part of a large email (like a
digest) you want to respond to, you have to reply to the whole thing and
then manually delete the bits you don't want to include..... What a
waste of time!

> Top posting does have the theoretical benefit of retaining contextual
integrity,
> while making it so that you don't have to scroll through the entire
history of the
> discussion unless you want to, or are taking the digest format.

For me it means I'm more likely to ignore that e-mail completely because
I don't have time (or patience) to keep srolling back and forth to match
up each part of the response with the with the part of the original
message it is referring to.  life's too short.

Teddy
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Date: Thu, 02 Sep 2004 15:28:56 +0100
From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pre-raph trim (WAS:Straight trim, curved places)
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> But sigh, on this one it may not work. Even though it's a 
> Pre-Raph dress, which means accuracy is pretty much 
> pointless, I'm trying to stay as faithful to the painting 
> itself as possible--it's Waterhouse's 1910 Ophelia (which for 
> a P-R painting, is almost vaguely like something that might 
> have actually happened, if you squint hard and ignore certain 
> elements: http://www.illusionsgallery.com/ophelia-1910.html ) 
> and at the bottom of her gown there's about ~8" of gold trim, 
> with very large emblems that can't be divided vertically. 
> What I _should_ do is find some gold fabric with a similar 
> design, but I've been looking and I can't!

How about plain gold fabric with the emblems appliqued on?  They're big
and fairly widely spaced so it won't be a *huge* huge job to do it.

Teddy
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Corset supply shop in London
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Chiara, thanks for the links, and Cynthia, thanks for the explanation
of "busking"!

~Mary 

> From: "Chiara" <chiara@io.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corset supply shop in London
> 
> http://www.staylace.com/resourcelist/supplies.htm
> 
> This seems to list some in the area, at least two in London proper,
> they
> would know if there are more specifically in London. Try giving one
> of them
> a call. :)
> 
> Also try http://www.sewing.co.uk/ since they are there.
> 
> Chiara
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> From: Cynthia J Ley <cley@juno.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corset supply shop in London
> 
> Busking is a term used by entertainers at Renn Faires and similiar
> activities. Basically, performers go and do their thing, then pass
> the
> hat.
> 


=====
"Pictures of perfection, as you know, make me sick & wicked."
~ Jane Austen

"Right now I'm having amnesia and deja vu at the same time.  I think I've forgotten this before."      ~ Steven Wright
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From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
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> I have a question about the burgundian/flemish/whatever/V-necked 
> style. I'm trying to get something like:
> 
> http://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/sca/15th/ainsworthp133.jpg
> 
> And I wonder... do you think it more likely that the fur around the 
> neckline (or velvet or whatever) is more likely to be:
> - a trim, just sewn onto the dress
> - or something turned-back similar to a modern jackets' lapel
> 
> Any help will be much appreciated!

I'd say it was likely to be the fur that the dress is lined in - or
that's the impression it's meant to give - whether the entire gown was
actually fully lined in fur is anyone's guess.... Judging by the size of
the plats under the belt, it could go either way, they could be the
right size for a thin, fine, flexible fur.  You can "fake" it, however,
by lining the gown with a similar coloured fabric to the fur and just
using the fur to bind the hem,  and make cuffs and collar to attach in
the right places... that may or may not have been what eas done in the
original garment to give the impression fo fully-lined in fur.

Teddy
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Date: Thu, 02 Sep 2004 15:41:51 +0100
From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: [h-cost] Who asked about diamond-weave wool?
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A while back someone was asking about diamond-weave wool and I've
forgotten who it was.

Whoever you are, if you could email me I can give you details of the one
I mentioned having seen on a traders stall at an event - I tracked it
down over the weekend and got a sample of it for you.

Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Straight trim, curved places
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In a message dated 9/1/2004 3:21:12 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
kimiko@kimiko1.com writes:
I am trying to figure out how to make a wide 2.5" Jacquard trim go around 
curves? The trim is not very stretchy, and I would like for it to go around 
the bottom of a man's base. I am making my husband a Henry VIII style 
doublet with attached base, and the base is a circle skirt that I will 
organ pleat into place.
That is pretty wide to get a decent curve. Up to 1 1/2 " or so, you can put 
an easing thread along one edge and shape it into a curve that way.
As wide as your are talking about, though, you may need to actually stitch 
small darts in to make it fit. I recently used a similar wide ribbon for a 
bonnet band and, as a bonnet crown is tapered, not a cylinder, I had to shape it 
and had to use darts--the easing didn't shape it enough.

Ann Wass
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From: "Five Rivers" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] fresh water pearls
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    I needing to find a source, preferably wholesale, for 3x4mm white fresh
water pearls, other than Canada Beading Supply, who don't have any
commercial grade, and I'm not willing to pay up to $14.00CDN/strand when I'm
needing easily 10 more strands to get on with this blessed Wind embroidery!

    Any help appreciated.

Regards
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage
fine hand-sewn embroidered garments, historical sewing patterns & embroidery
supplies
(519) 799-5577, http://www.5rivers.org  email: info@5rivers.org

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You could try Fire Mountain Gems. They have several pages of freshwater pearls. 

http://www.firemountaingems.com/shopping.asp?skw=KWBDPRL

Karen





-- "Five Rivers" <lgsteph@wightman.ca> wrote:
    I needing to find a source, preferably wholesale, for 3x4mm white fresh
water pearls, other than Canada Beading Supply, who don't have any
commercial grade, and I'm not willing to pay up to $14.00CDN/strand when I'm
needing easily 10 more strands to get on with this blessed Wind embroidery!

    Any help appreciated.

Regards
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage
fine hand-sewn embroidered garments, historical sewing patterns & embroidery
supplies
(519) 799-5577, http://www.5rivers.org  email: info@5rivers.org

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On 9/2/2004, "Five Rivers" <lgsteph@wightman.ca> wrote:

>    I needing to find a source, preferably wholesale, for 3x4mm white fresh
>water pearls, other than Canada Beading Supply, who don't have any
>commercial grade, and I'm not willing to pay up to $14.00CDN/strand when
I'm
>needing easily 10 more strands to get on with this blessed Wind embroidery!
>
>    Any help appreciated.
>
>Regards
>Lorina


I did a quick search at firemountaingems.com - would these work? If not, poke
around a bit in the pearl section - they have plenty of others.

http://www.firemountaingems.com/details.asp?PN=H141031PL


Andrea

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From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
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References: <8AFF1656DE4AB348973023624E8F40192C39C6@MDX-CLX-DC1.uni.mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] burgundian gown "trim" question
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2004 11:34:41 -0500
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Here's the answer I sent:

I dunno the answer, but as providence would have it, I noticed a couple of
manuscript images last might that may have a bearing on this. They show two
views of the same woman in a v-necked gown with no fur; looking at the other
depictions of v-necked gowns in this manuscript, they're drawn the same way,
except with fur trim at neck, sleeves, and hem. Here are the pictures:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1475-80francois24.jpg
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1475-80francois23.jpg
And here's a few normal, trimmed versions from the same manuscript for
contrast:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1475-80francois15.jpg
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1475-80francois34.jpg

Incidentally, in this same manuscript nearly all of the v-necked dresses are
only floor length, with no train! Overall, what I've seen shows the
opposite; a handful of trainless gowns, and everything else trained.
Including these, the only floor-length v-neck gown images I've found are
from manuscripts.

The manuscript is French, c1475-80, by Maître François,and can be found at:
http://www.kb.nl/kb/manuscripts/search/index.html
(I can't link directly; go to the 'Miniaturist' field and click on 'Index'
beside it, then 'M', then scroll to the 5th from the bottom and click
'Maître François')

(Here is the only other unlined v-neck image of this sort I've seen:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/c1500france2cropped.jpg )

Now, this could be taken more than one way: either this is what a gown of
this style looks like if you just leave off the trim, or this is what a gown
of this style looks like if you don't line it with fur. It seems to suggest
the trim option to me, because if there it were normally furlined I'd expect
to see an unlined lapel-type collar on it.

However, from looking at other paintings and illuminations--and seeing a few
gowns held up in such a way that the fur lining (matching the trim) is
visible--I lean towards a third option: Both the lining AND the trim were
left off of this gown. I think the two are separate, at least sometimes, and
that you can have one without the other, or both at once, or neither at
once. There are images where the neck trim is present, but the held-up skirt
is unlined (1462, France). There's an image where the dress is clearly
furlined, including the collar, but _over_ the fur of the collar there is a
black collar:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1460flemishcloseupcropped.jpg
And a couple more views of the same woman:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1460flemishcollarcropped.jpg
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1460flemish2cropped.jpg
Of course, this could just be a separate collar, but the way it matches the
edges of the fur so perfectly suggests that it's affixed somehow, which
would fit the definition of trim. Here's an illumination showing what may be
the same sort of thing, 40 years later:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/c1500france1cropped.jpg

Here are a few images showing unlined, held-up skirts on gowns with fur trim
at the neck:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1462francecropped.jpg
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1462valeriusmaximuscropped.jpg
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1477bibel.jpg

And since I'm about to order some velvet to use as a
not-fur-but-kinda-like-fur lining on a different style from the same era,
here are a few lined with something probably not fur:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1467-80nethermaryburghourscropped.jpg
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/150v.jpg
http://tinyurl.com/5mols
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/green-faux-fur.jpg
The 1485 Decameron Hague KB 133 A 5 found at the manuscripts site mentioned
above has several stunning non-fur images as well, but I forgot to upload
them and I'm too lazy to do it now since I already closed that program. =P

-E

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Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2004 14:04:36 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fresh water pearls
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On Thu, 2 Sep 2004, Five Rivers wrote:

>     I needing to find a source, preferably wholesale, for 3x4mm white
> fresh water pearls, other than Canada Beading Supply, who don't have
> any commercial grade, and I'm not willing to pay up to
> $14.00CDN/strand when I'm needing easily 10 more strands to get on
> with this blessed Wind embroidery!

South Pacific has good pearls. Best to contact them with your needs and
ask about availability.
http://www.beading.com/index.htm

Or National Supply. Again, selection fluctuates, but they're really
helpful with inquiries -- particularly if you call on a weekday morning
(or at least not during lunch or late afternoon, and definitely not on
Saturday when the place is jammed).
http://www.nationalsupply.com/

--Robin


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> Here's the answer I sent:
>

*much* snippage

> here are a few lined with something probably not fur:
> http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1467-80nethermaryburghourscropped.jpg
> http://www.formfunction.org/temp/150v.jpg
> http://tinyurl.com/5mols

the above link doesn't work.  It produces this string after the /temp/

lesgrandeschroniquesd///'angleterre_mariageduroyjeanduportugalcropped.jpg 

Jerusha
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Subject: [h-cost] Vest Pattern
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Good Morning everybody,

I have found some very smart red, white and blue (don't think US flag) plaid fabric (2 yards) and it's telling me it wants to be a vest.  This will be something I wear during the winter so it need to be comfy and fully lined.  I do dress a bit out of the ordinary for around here, so I want something interesting.

I will be drafting my own pattern from something I see.

I'm thinking something Victorian?  Not necessarily just a woman's pattern, I do wear "mens" clothing too.  And I'm about a size 16, so I'd kinda like something flattering too. Big order?  I know, but if anyone can help me find something wonderful, you people can! :)

Thanks,

Anne




Go softly and gently for those you meet here will be
those you know hereafter."
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Subject: [h-cost] Vanity Fair
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I just got back from seeing Vanity Fair.  Quite a good adaptation.  The 
costuming was interesting.  I truely enjoyed the men's waistcoats, 
especially George's feather one.  This is not my time period, so all that I 
can say is that the gowns did look very nice and there were a couple of 
imaginative ones shown.  Mind, the lead actress (Reece Witherspoon) was 
pregnant at the time that she made this movie.  Anyone who does regency 
have any comments?

Jennifer

If you are squeamish, don't prod the beach rubble.
				Sappho 

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I just got back from seeing Vanity Fair.  Quite a good adaptation.  The
costuming was interesting.  I truely enjoyed the men's waistcoats,
especially George's feather one.  This is not my time period, so all that I
can say is that the gowns did look very nice and there were a couple of
imaginative ones shown.  Mind, the lead actress (Reece Witherspoon) was
pregnant at the time that she made this movie.  Anyone who does regency
have any comments?

I hope to see this movie this weekend. Reportedly, the director asked
Reece's husband, if he wouldn't mind trying to get Reece pregnant before
filming started so she would have the correct Regency look, which the
current Hollywood aesthetic ideal contradicts.  See Gweyneth Paltrow in
"Emma" for an example of Hollywood aesthetic triumphing over historical
accuracy. Jenny Beavan also ran into the same pressure when doing the
women's costuming for "Sense and Sensibility. It is probably why there are
few film or TV dramas set during the late 1860's-1876 or mid 1880's as "we"
consider the eras of the bustle unattractive.
Personally, I'm at the age where I'd welcome the return of those fashions --
I could wear a smaller "improver" whereas the young and flat derriered would
have to wear larger "improvers" to be fashionable.

"Becky Sharp's wardrobe for the film was mostly chosen to be very colorful,
to show her nouveau riche position as she climbed upward into society. I do
that more color was coming into fashion c1810-1830 for women--the neoclassic
white was mainly for the wealthy who could afford the imported muslins and
silks and a servant expert in stain removal from anything white, plus the
services of an expert dyer and embrodeirer when it was impossible to keep
the white dress white any longer. Unless the white dress in question was
beyond saving as it was--Henry Tilney in "Northanger Abbey" informs
Catherine that a white dress could always be turned to some account if the
muslin it was made of frayed when washed--a cloak(more of a scarf),
neckerchief, or handkerchiefs.

What is always fun in watching a "historical" movie is noting how the then
current asesthetic influences the costumes and especially the makeup and
hairstyles of the leading actors. This is really noticeable in such films
from the 1910's through 1970's and is pretty readable in the films made
during the 80's and '90's.

Cindy Abel

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Five Rivers wrote:
>     I needing to find a source, preferably wholesale, for 3x4mm white fresh
> water pearls, other than Canada Beading Supply, who don't have any
> commercial grade, and I'm not willing to pay up to $14.00CDN/strand when I'm
> needing easily 10 more strands to get on with this blessed Wind embroidery!

Have you tried Fire Mountain Gems? They are in the US but their prices 
are really good. We even order through them from down here in NZ.

http://www.firemountaingems.com/pearls.asp

Good luck finding your pearls!

Catalina
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Sep  2 19:27:30 2004
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Colonial House
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Maybe this was brought up before and I missed it, but I'll inquire 
anyway.  I havent seen PBS' Colonial House but I did see the rerun 
Oprah ran today about her short adventure there.  She and her friend 
Gail had to remove all their underclothing when donning their costumes 
because they were told that panties were not worn until the 1800s.  Now 
I always thought that bloomers of some type or another came in earlier 
than the 19th century.  Am I wrong?

Sylrog

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Sep  2 19:35:40 2004
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From: "kim baird" <kbaird@cableone.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Colonial House
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2004 18:35:14 -0500
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You are wrong.

Of course, over the history of costume around the world, drawers have
come and gone in various places. But in America women began to wear them
because of hoops. Wearing a big hoop, if the wind blew it up or it
caught on something, you could see everything underneath.

Or is that an old wives tale?

I do know that they were controversial in this country--some people
objected to women wearing them at all.

Kim

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Sylvia Rognstad
Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2004 6:30 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Colonial House


Maybe this was brought up before and I missed it, but I'll inquire 
anyway.  I havent seen PBS' Colonial House but I did see the rerun 
Oprah ran today about her short adventure there.  She and her friend 
Gail had to remove all their underclothing when donning their costumes 
because they were told that panties were not worn until the 1800s.  Now 
I always thought that bloomers of some type or another came in earlier 
than the 19th century.  Am I wrong?

Sylrog

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Sep  2 20:37:36 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] fresh water pearls
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What about Fire Mountain? They're in the US, but I betcha they ship 
north of the border!
--sue

Five Rivers wrote:

>     I needing to find a source, preferably wholesale, for 3x4mm white fresh
> water pearls, other than Canada Beading Supply, who don't have any
> commercial grade, and I'm not willing to pay up to $14.00CDN/strand when I'm
> needing easily 10 more strands to get on with this blessed Wind embroidery!
> 
>     Any help appreciated.
> 
> Regards
> Lorina
> Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage
> fine hand-sewn embroidered garments, historical sewing patterns & embroidery
> supplies
> (519) 799-5577, http://www.5rivers.org  email: info@5rivers.org


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Date: Thu, 02 Sep 2004 18:18:41 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fresh water pearls
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At 11:02 AM 9/2/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>     I needing to find a source, preferably wholesale, for 3x4mm white fresh
>water pearls, other than Canada Beading Supply, who don't have any
>commercial grade, and I'm not willing to pay up to $14.00CDN/strand when I'm
>needing easily 10 more strands to get on with this blessed Wind embroidery!
>
>     Any help appreciated.
>
>Regards
>Lorina


Hi Lorina,

Well beyond Fire Mountain Gems, here one a friend sent me for pearls. She 
likes this place a lot.
http://www.treasureislandpearls.com/sunshop/

hth,

Kimiko


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: OT: standards of reply
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Laning" <claning@igc.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2004 2:51 AM
Subject: [h-cost] RE: OT: standards of reply

> I'm continually amazed by the people who flatly declare "top posting is
rude" <snip>

well it's not top posting per-se that's rude it's top posting without
cutting any of the extraneous material removed, as you'll notice I've just
left in the one statement I'm replying to and indicated that I have cut out
other information with the word "snip". I've seen posts to groups where
people have left several posts intact below their own post
e.g. Post #1 by John
Post #2 in reply to John by Adam (leaves entire text of John's message
intact)
Post #3 in reply to Adam by Mary (leaves both John and Adam's messages below
her own)
Post #4 in reply to Mary by John (now has 3 posts below anything they have
added)
Post #5 Jane writes "me too" on top of post #4
N.B. all names are fictional and were picked entirely at random I'm not
talking about anybody in particular.

this sort of thing eats up bandwidth and can go on for pages this is
particularly annoying for digest people. Although one of the most annoying
things I think I've seen is when a digest person top posts leaving the
entire contents of the digest below leaving the subject line digest #... and
there is almost no way to identify what they are replying to.

Elizabeth

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From: Kristalori History <jacquelinejbump@gmail.com>
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Amen. As a few up here know I run the SCA-Garb list that has 2381
people on it. And many are on digest and I catch hell if people don't
trim and hell if they do and hell if I chastise them for not trimming.
I am ok with top posting though it makes sense to post the answer
AFTER the question.

On Thu, 2 Sep 2004 17:13:34 +1000, Elizabeth Walpole 
<snip>
> well it's not top posting per-se that's rude it's top posting without
> cutting any of the extraneous material removed, 
> Elizabeth
-- 
"Pardon me, Lady Tudor Glitz, but telling people things aren't period isn't
period." 
Italian Ladies 2005 Calendar
http://www.lulu.com/kristalori
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Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2004 00:05:19 -0400
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fresh water pearls
From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Also try http://www.thaigem.com, under "gemstone beads". Everything I have
bought from them so far has exceeded expectations.

> From: "Five Rivers" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>

> I needing to find a source, preferably wholesale, for 3x4mm white fresh
> water pearls, other than Canada Beading Supply, 

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Date: Thu, 02 Sep 2004 21:53:27 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Vanity Fair
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>Mind, the lead actress (Reece Witherspoon) was 
>pregnant at the time that she made this movie.  Anyone who does regency 
>have any comments?

A couple of days before one of my daughters was due, I attended a Gaskell
Ball in c1795, with a pad in back and the daughter in front.  I didn't
indent the high waist all the way to my ribs, so the front of the dress
hung straight down from the 'waist'.  I looked as big as the fashion
plates.  (They wouldn't let me polka that night, only waltz, and the
daughter arrived 4 days later than the due date...)

       CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
         www.FunStuft.com

             //// \\\
            ////-@@\\\
           ((((   7 )))
            (((  <> ))))
               )   ((((((
          /----\   /---\))

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Subject: [h-cost] OT: Victorian Homes
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Not costume, but Victorian & Edwardian style homes in a little town, Cape Charles, Virginia.  http://www.costumegallery.com/homes/CapeCharles/   There are little towns like this all over Virginia and the U.S.  I took these photos while on vacation.  I have always wanted to own a home like in a little town.  We almost bought one but had to considered to removal of the lead paint in this era's homes could cost more than the price tag for the house.  When in high school, I couldn't decide to go to college for fashion or architectural drawing.  I tried a semester of architectural drawing and decided it was too much science for me... so I moved on to be a fashion major.  If fate hadn't stepped in, I would have had a very large historic architecture website!  Actually, I have found many historic fashion followers, also like historic architecture. 

BTW, this area is in the free area of my website.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Online Reference Library, AND Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumegallery.com/research.htm  
www.costumeclassroom.com 
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Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2004 08:52:45 +0100
From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] O/T Re: bullies (WAS:  Teen styles)
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O/T Re: bullies (WAS: RE:  [h-cost] Teen styles (WAS:Pants
> 	below the crotch))

>  My father *insisted* that I fight back by kicking 
> these boys in the genitals......
> 
> BTW, this was a sort of continuation of how they treated ALL  girls
they 
> took to be from "the right side of the tracks" since the earliest
levels of 
> elementary school. Tell me I didn't grow up learning how to be
anything 
> OTHER than a victim???????

At least your father seemed to have the right idea!

Teddy
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Subject: RE:  [h-cost] burgundian gown "trim" question
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>  There's an image where the dress is clearly
> furlined, including the collar, but _over_ the fur of the  collar
there is a
> black collar:
> http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1460flemishcloseupcropped.jpg
> And a couple more views of the same woman:
> http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1460flemishcollarcropped.jpg
> http://www.formfunction.org/temp/1460flemish2cropped.jpg
> Of course, this could just be a separate collar, but the way 
> it matches the edges of the fur so perfectly suggests that it's
affixed 
> somehow, which would fit the definition of trim. Here's an
illumination 
> showing what may be the same sort of thing, 40 years later:
> http://www.formfunction.org/temp/c1500france1cropped.jpg

Those images suggest to me that it might be a black undergown with a
collar that is worn *over* the collar of the overgown... the last image
shows the black skirt of the undergown

Again - it could be that it was done as a full-gown sometimes and
"faked" by attaching a second collar others... As so often with these
things, we're into surmise, interpret,extrapolate and guess country and
it's always possibkle there was no one "strandard" way of doing it.

Teddy
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From: "Five Rivers" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
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    As always all of you are a wealth of information. Pearls ordered and on
the way. Many thanks. I AM going to get this Wind embroidery done and off
the frame. Water, here we come!

Regards
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage
fine hand-sewn embroidered garments, historical sewing patterns & embroidery
supplies
(519) 799-5577, http://www.5rivers.org  email: info@5rivers.org

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Subject: [h-cost] Fw: Pick Your BEAD Savings.
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Here is more help with the pearl search. :)

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>
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>
>Prices subject to change without prior notice.
>Not responsible for typographical errors, or descriptive or technical
>errors for products listed.
>
>Fire Mountain Gems and Beads
>One Fire Mountain Way, Grants Pass, OR 97526-2373
>Copyright 2004 All rights reserved.
>

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From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] burgundian gown "trim" question
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Susan Farmer" <sfarmer@sabre.goldsword.com>
> the above link doesn't work.  It produces this string after the /temp/
> lesgrandeschroniquesd///'angleterre_mariageduroyjeanduportugalcropped.jpg

Sorry about that! Try this instead:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/jeanduportugal.jpg

-E House
Liberty in Our Lifetime - www.freestateproject.org
Coming Soon - http://www.seamcheckers.com

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] v-neck gowns
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On Thu, 2 Sep 2004, E House wrote:

> http://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/sca/15th/ainsworthp133.jpg
> 
> And I wonder... do you think it more likely that the fur around the 
> neckline (or velvet or whatever) is more likely to be:
> - a trim, just sewn onto the dress
> - or something turned-back similar to a modern jackets' lapel

(Sneaking in some list reading on a break from heavy deadlines -- no time
for really long posts today, sorry)

Two answers here, depending on whether you mean "this style in general" or
"this dress in particular."

On the style in general: The V-necked fashion goes through a lot of change
over the 15th c., including some significant construction shifts, not just
incremental modifications. The fashion clearly develops directly out of
the houppelande, and it seems clear that the fur V originated as a
turn-back of the neck opening on the fur-lined houppelande. Ditto the
cuffs, as a turn-back (somewhere I have an image in which a woman has her
cuffs turned back at two different lengths, showing different amounts of
fur).

Anyway, in the earlier examples, the fur generally appears to be a
turnback or a lapel-style "spillover" of the fur lining following the
V-shape of the opened center front. Over time, the neck decoration appears
to become formalized as a design element in itself, which means that from
a construction standpoint, the fur may be added simply as a separate
piece, either of the same type of fur as the lining, or a more expensive
fur (because it's visible), or even as a decorative addition on a gown
lined with something other than fur (though the combination of fur collar,
cuffs, and hem band seems by far most common, suggesting that the full fur
lining is the norm).

Around the late 1460s there's a notable shift to a different (more fitted)
body cut, which is pretty much all you see from 1470 on, with very rare
exceptions. My own theories on the nature of the later body cut (posted
here before, and also a common lecture topic for me) would indicate that
the collar at that point could no longer be formed by a turnback or lapel
construction, and would need to be separately laid over; there are a
number of ways to accomplish this. By this time, I think it's safe to say
that the V-neck decoration is strictly a decorative convention ordinarily
applied to this dress style.

After the construction shift, you also start seeing more variations in the
V decoration, including materials that might be something other than fur
and changes in height, shape, and angle of the added piece. Because the
collar is now a decorative add-on, that also means it can be omitted
without affecting the rest of the dress, and you see that happen
occasionally. This is something that could not have occurred with the
earliest versions of the style, but became possible only after the collar
had ceased to be an integral component or byproduct of the body
construction.

On this dress in particular: This one's still early in the progression,
clearly pre-1460. We're still in turnback/label territory here. The fur
turned-back cuffs and the hem spillover suggest it's safe to assume you've
got a full fur lining.

It's gorgeous, too. I've been planning for some time to make one like
this. I have gotten a bolt of grey wool that has a thick furry nap that
looks like a close-cropped fur that I'm intending to use as a full lining
on something like this. Alas, it won't tell me how real fur behaves, but
that's not something I can personally afford to explore -- particularly
the interesting theory (from Stevie Gamble, on this list) that the regular
pleats/folds that occur on the outside are a function of the pressure from
the regular vertical parallel seams used to piece hundreds of inch-wide
squirrel skins into a larger fur lining.

--Robin


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Robin Netherton wrote:
> the interesting theory (from Stevie Gamble, on this list) that the regular
> pleats/folds that occur on the outside are a function of the pressure from
> the regular vertical parallel seams used to piece hundreds of inch-wide
> squirrel skins into a larger fur lining.

That is intriguing indeed.

However, a full interior fur lining would make the garments very thick 
through the body, especially considering how wide they are to be 
gathered in by the belt.  The images are universally narrow through the 
body, not more than one would expect with just fabric layers.

With fur, a garment like that compresses, empty, to the size of an 
average woman's torso, and larger if it is a thicker fur; the images, if 
they were all fur lined, would make every woman wearing a houppelande to 
look extremly thick-bodied.

Granted, there's some artistic license going on here, but that extreme a 
difference?  And every artist from tapestries to illuminations doing the 
same thing?  I have doubts.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

If they keep adding obscure sports to the Olympics, it's only a matter 
of time before somebody gets a gold medal for making balloon animals. I 
think they should combine some of these sports. Like, they could combine 
fencing and trampoline into one sport, called ''fampoline.'' I'd pay 
good money to see that.  -- Dave Barry
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Sep  3 13:34:47 2004
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Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2004 10:33:54 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] O/T Re: bullies (WAS:  Teen styles)
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
To: h costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Good for your dad!

My dad always told us, "Never start a fight but make dam*  sure you finish
the fight. That will also help keep you out of future fights."

LynnD

> From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2004 08:52:45 +0100
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] O/T Re: bullies (WAS:  Teen styles)
> 
> O/T Re: bullies (WAS: RE:  [h-cost] Teen styles (WAS:Pants
>> below the crotch))
> 
>>  My father *insisted* that I fight back by kicking
>> these boys in the genitals......
>> 
>> BTW, this was a sort of continuation of how they treated ALL  girls
> they 
>> took to be from "the right side of the tracks" since the earliest
> levels of 
>> elementary school. Tell me I didn't grow up learning how to be
> anything 
>> OTHER than a victim???????
> 
> At least your father seemed to have the right idea!
> 
> Teddy
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Sep  3 15:45:18 2004
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Hi, just testing if my status on the list works again.
I had set my mail to no mail while i was in Italy.
Xenia sended me pictures from the wedding so now you can se her with the
prinse here:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/xenia.htm


Bjarne


Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] v-neck gowns
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On Fri, 3 Sep 2004, Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> However, a full interior fur lining would make the garments very thick
> through the body, especially considering how wide they are to be
> gathered in by the belt.  The images are universally narrow through
> the body, not more than one would expect with just fabric layers.

I've seen fur that's *that* thin. And that's what would have been used.

The near-universal use of fur linings -- full-body fur linings -- for the
gowns of the nobility in this period is well documented (from period
accounts, inventories, laws, and guild regulations, not just pictures).
Elspeth Veale is the best starting point. Reading that book -- and it's a
good read, too, not dry at all -- changed the way I look at clothing from
this period.

This is why I'm planning on lining one of these dresses with a
furry-surface napped wool fabric. It's closer in weight to a fine fur than
any fur I could afford. Though truth is, the fur was probably finer and
more compressible than even the wool will be.

--Robin


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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] O/T Re: bullies (WAS:  Teen styles)
Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2004 13:56:24 -0500
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I was taught, first you turn the other cheek, and since you only have so
many cheeks and that fails you go through the chain of command. If that
fails you defend yourself, do what you have to and get out of there. There
will be times you will have to resort to #3 before the other two.
You must never start a fight but ending one comes under #3.

De

-----Original Message-----
Good for your dad!

My dad always told us, "Never start a fight but make dam*  sure you finish
the fight. That will also help keep you out of future fights."

LynnD

> From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2004 08:52:45 +0100
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] O/T Re: bullies (WAS:  Teen styles)
>
> O/T Re: bullies (WAS: RE:  [h-cost] Teen styles (WAS:Pants
>> below the crotch))
>
>>  My father *insisted* that I fight back by kicking
>> these boys in the genitals......
>>
>> BTW, this was a sort of continuation of how they treated ALL  girls
> they
>> took to be from "the right side of the tracks" since the earliest
> levels of
>> elementary school. Tell me I didn't grow up learning how to be
> anything
>> OTHER than a victim???????
>
> At least your father seemed to have the right idea!
>
> Teddy
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Sep  3 16:01:13 2004
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Cindy Abel:

> What is always fun in watching a "historical" movie is noting how the then
> current asesthetic influences the costumes and especially the makeup and
> hairstyles of the leading actors. This is really noticeable in such films
> from the 1910's through 1970's and is pretty readable in the films made
> during the 80's and '90's.

My children recently noticed that Princess Leia in Star Wars (the original
one) had very pink shiny lips. I told them that was the style at the time,
as was her pink eyeshadows. My seven-year-old got smart-alecky and told me
"there wasn't a back then, this is in the future!" But my 10-year-old was
very interested, especially in the pink eyeshadow.

Gail Finke

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Sep  3 16:11:43 2004
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Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2004 12:05:06 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] O/T Re: bullies (WAS:  Teen styles)
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
To: h costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Yes, four cheeks is enough, and sometimes the chain of command works too.

In this enlightened age, my daughters were taught TWA at school:

TALK to the person and ask them to stop
WALK away from the person if they won't stop
ASK a teacher to intervene.

This sometimes worked. But for one boy, even knowing that he had to stay at
least 30 feet from my daughter at any time - yes even in class - didn't
work. When it didn't, Dad's advice was Plan B.

LynnD


> From: otsisto <otsisto@socket.net>
> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2004 13:56:24 -0500
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] O/T Re: bullies (WAS:  Teen styles)
> 
> I was taught, first you turn the other cheek, and since you only have so
> many cheeks and that fails you go through the chain of command. If that
> fails you defend yourself, do what you have to and get out of there. There
> will be times you will have to resort to #3 before the other two.
> You must never start a fight but ending one comes under #3.
> 
> De
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> Good for your dad!
> 
> My dad always told us, "Never start a fight but make dam*  sure you finish
> the fight. That will also help keep you out of future fights."
> 
> LynnD
> 
>> From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
>> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2004 08:52:45 +0100
>> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Subject: RE: [h-cost] O/T Re: bullies (WAS:  Teen styles)
>> 
>> O/T Re: bullies (WAS: RE:  [h-cost] Teen styles (WAS:Pants
>>> below the crotch))
>> 
>>>  My father *insisted* that I fight back by kicking
>>> these boys in the genitals......
>>> 
>>> BTW, this was a sort of continuation of how they treated ALL  girls
>> they
>>> took to be from "the right side of the tracks" since the earliest
>> levels of
>>> elementary school. Tell me I didn't grow up learning how to be
>> anything
>>> OTHER than a victim???????
>> 
>> At least your father seemed to have the right idea!
>> 
>> Teddy
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Sep  3 16:11:44 2004
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From: Janet Renzetti <celtic_dragonrider@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] O/T Re: bullies (WAS:  Teen styles)
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Status: RO

THings don't always work that way.  The parents believe the child (if the child says something and doesn't bloc it out.
 
Personal experience was that I forgot everything as soon as the bell rang.  My parents didnt know that things were happening to me.
 
THe teacher was just as uch to blame as the children.  I was the youngest of the class by 2 years and I was the scapegoat.  I was picked on by the students and by the teachers.
 
Later, the last of the 6 schools I ever attended that weren't college, when my parents knew happened to me before they set up an escape plan and had meetings with the teachers.  THe abuse by teachers and students still went on.  SO much for the chain of command.  I have no idea were that teacher is, but last I heard, several years ago, they were still teaching.  THe one tacher was even the principle.  
 
Some people say that is because it was a public school.  I tell them I went to 3 public and 3 private and it happened to both.  I think the private were worse  because they were following that the men came first therefore the girls haave to submit.  FOrget that.  
 
I was homeschooled most of my school years and attended college later because regular school never worked out.  My parents also put my ssister brother and I in Karate so we coud better protect ourselves because obviously there is a break down in the in society.  It shouldn't be that way, but I understand when children say that help wasn't there and they felt there was no option for them.
 
Janet

Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org> wrote:
Yes, four cheeks is enough, and sometimes the chain of command works too.

In this enlightened age, my daughters were taught TWA at school:

TALK to the person and ask them to stop
WALK away from the person if they won't stop
ASK a teacher to intervene.

This sometimes worked. But for one boy, even knowing that he had to stay at
least 30 feet from my daughter at any time - yes even in class - didn't
work. When it didn't, Dad's advice was Plan B.

LynnD


> From: otsisto 
> Reply-To: Historical Costume 
> Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2004 13:56:24 -0500
> To: Historical Costume 
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] O/T Re: bullies (WAS: Teen styles)
> 
> I was taught, first you turn the other cheek, and since you only have so
> many cheeks and that fails you go through the chain of command. If that
> fails you defend yourself, do what you have to and get out of there. There
> will be times you will have to resort to #3 before the other two.
> You must never start a fight but ending one comes under #3.
> 
> De
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> Good for your dad!
> 
> My dad always told us, "Never start a fight but make dam* sure you finish
> the fight. That will also help keep you out of future fights."
> 
> LynnD
> 
>> From: Teddy 
>> Reply-To: Historical Costume 
>> Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2004 08:52:45 +0100
>> To: 
>> Subject: RE: [h-cost] O/T Re: bullies (WAS: Teen styles)
>> 
>> O/T Re: bullies (WAS: RE: [h-cost] Teen styles (WAS:Pants
>>> below the crotch))
>> 
>>> My father *insisted* that I fight back by kicking
>>> these boys in the genitals......
>>> 
>>> BTW, this was a sort of continuation of how they treated ALL girls
>> they
>>> took to be from "the right side of the tracks" since the earliest
>> levels of
>>> elementary school. Tell me I didn't grow up learning how to be
>> anything
>>> OTHER than a victim???????
>> 
>> At least your father seemed to have the right idea!
>> 
>> Teddy
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From: Ella Lynoure Braakman <lynoure@tuug.fi>
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Subject: [h-cost] A back view of a Saxon princess gown
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I have searched and search and haven't yet found even a moderately good
back view of a gown similar to the ones worn my the three Saxon princesses
in the Cranach painting. Is there such a picture? If there is, could
someone kindly point me to it?

--
Lynoure Braakman
lynoure@tuug.fi


-- 
Lynoure Rajamaki
lynoure@tuug.fi

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Bjarne, this (she) simply takes the breath away! What beautiful work, and
what a beautiful young woman!

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

on 9/3/04 2:55 PM, Bjarne og Leif Drews at drewscph@post12.tele.dk wrote:

> Hi, just testing if my status on the list works again.
> I had set my mail to no mail while i was in Italy.
> Xenia sended me pictures from the wedding so now you can se her with the
> prinse here:
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/xenia.htm
> 
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Hi all

There is a costume group forming in the Fresno CA area. If you are local to 
this area, or willing to drive for it, please contact me off list 
(kimiko@kimiko1.com or costumegroup@kimiko1.com) for more information. The 
first meeting is an organizational one, and we would love as much input 
from everyone who is interested as possible.

Thanks, and back to your regular programming.

Kimiko Small

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*sigh*
It's beautiful.  So is the bride!
How satisfying it must be to see something you've made turn out so well!
Hope you had a good time in Italy.
--sue, in cool, rainy Montana

Bjarne Drews wrote:

> Hi, just testing if my status on the list works again.
> I had set my mail to no mail while i was in Italy.
> Xenia sended me pictures from the wedding so now you can se her with the
> prinse here:
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/xenia.htm


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> I have searched and search and haven't yet found even a moderately good
> back view of a gown similar to the ones worn my the three Saxon princesses
> in the Cranach painting. Is there such a picture? If there is, could
> someone kindly point me to it?

There are lots:) But finding them is obviously difficult;)

The best is The Fountain of Youth by Cranach. I also have a number of
photocopies of Cranach paintings that show the backs.
http://frazzledfrau.glittersweet.com/1546cranfountainyouth.htm
I've included a link to a larger image, you may even find details of the
painting if you look on the web.

They mostly seem to be curved at the back, while the Swiss styles seem to be
more square in general. The curve seems to be exaggerated in a few of
Cranach's allegorical/religious figures.

That's a  point actually. I've been meaning to update the site, maybe a page
on the backs of gowns would be a good idea...

Also take a look at Mary of Hungary's gown, the curved neck of the back and
neckline that terminates at the waist is extremely reminiscent of the style:
http://frazzledfrau.glittersweet.com/mary/index.htm

michaela
http://costumes.glittersweet.com


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> Maybe this was brought up before and I missed it, but I'll inquire
> anyway.  I haven't seen PBS' Colonial House but I did see the rerun
> Oprah ran today about her short adventure there.  She and her friend
> Gail had to remove all their underclothing when donning their costumes
> because they were told that panties were not worn until the 1800s.  Now
> I always thought that bloomers of some type or another came in earlier
> than the 19th century.  Am I wrong?
>
> Sylrog

You are correct that drawers for women existed prior to the 19th century,
IIRC there is a 16th century Italian  pair of embroidered (crotchless ?)
drawers in Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd (I've got a scan of the page
with a B&W pic and a description saved somewhere but I'm not sure which book
it's from). However that doesn't mean that ordinary middle to working class
English women were wearing them in the mid 17th century. I've heard some
mention of drawers being a particularly slow fashion to spread into England
and equally slow to spread into the lower classes.
Elizabeth
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
Elizabeth Beaumont              Elizabeth Walpole
Politarchopolis, Lochac     Canberra Australia
             ewalpole@austar.net.au

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Okay, I have finally booked our airfare and need a list of fabric shops to shop at in Montreal.  Where, hours?? any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks

Brin Kendall
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From: "Helen  Pinto" <hpinto@mindspring.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.58.0409032315590.10489@morgoth.tuug.fi>
	<003101c49218$258bb600$b2cfadcb@michaela>
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Subject: [h-cost] Paintings of Pregnant Women
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Sometime in the last week or two, someone was looking for paintings of
pregnant women.  While looking for books, I came across this "Visitation" by
Marx Reichlich, ca 1511.  Both the Virgin and St Anne are visibly pregnant
(complete with tiny fetuses having a meet-and-greet between their bellies)
and wearing much more archaic clothing (cyclas-type surcoat, loose gowns,
wimple, veils) than the two other women on the street, who look very 16c
German.

http://cgfa.sunsite.dk/r/p-reichli1.htm

Enjoy,
            -Helen/Aidan


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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Colonial House and pre 19th century underwear
Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2004 20:51:24 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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It just occurred to me that they were worn though prior to the  
1850s-60s crinolines though in the form of pantaloons in the early  
1800s, werent they?


Sylrog

On Sep 2, 2004, at 10:26 PM, Elizabeth Walpole wrote:

>
>
>> Maybe this was brought up before and I missed it, but I'll inquire
>> anyway.  I haven't seen PBS' Colonial House but I did see the rerun
>> Oprah ran today about her short adventure there.  She and her friend
>> Gail had to remove all their underclothing when donning their costumes
>> because they were told that panties were not worn until the 1800s.   
>> Now
>> I always thought that bloomers of some type or another came in earlier
>> than the 19th century.  Am I wrong?
>>
>> Sylrog
>
> You are correct that drawers for women existed prior to the 19th  
> century,
> IIRC there is a 16th century Italian  pair of embroidered (crotchless  
> ?)
> drawers in Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd (I've got a scan of the  
> page
> with a B&W pic and a description saved somewhere but I'm not sure  
> which book
> it's from). However that doesn't mean that ordinary middle to working  
> class
> English women were wearing them in the mid 17th century. I've heard  
> some
> mention of drawers being a particularly slow fashion to spread into  
> England
> and equally slow to spread into the lower classes.
> Elizabeth
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 
> -----
> ----
> Elizabeth Beaumont              Elizabeth Walpole
> Politarchopolis, Lochac     Canberra Australia
>              ewalpole@austar.net.au
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Sep  4 00:09:56 2004
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Subject: [h-cost] 1830s sleeve puffs
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Does anyone know how the sleeve puffs in the 1830s were attached? Just to be clear, a picture of them can be found at: http://www.kci.or.jp/cgi-bin/collection.cgi?lang=e&path=1820/09-009455_a

	- Were they usually part of the chemise? 
	- Were they hooked/tied/tacked to the chemise or to the corset? 
	- Were they simply tied to the arm -- is that enough to hold them in place?
	- What were they called in period (tippets? or is that something else?)

		Thanks!
			-sunny 

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Sunny,

When I worked on an exhibit at the Valentine Museum, we had a set of the puffs.  They tied onto the arm.  The pair we had were filled with horsehair if I remember correctly.  They were very light.  They dated form the 1830s period.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Online Reference Library, AND Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumegallery.com/research.htm  
www.costumeclassroom.com 
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The dress and the couple look just beautiful.  Bjarne, you are a master at 
this.

Jennifer

>Hi, just testing if my status on the list works again.
>I had set my mail to no mail while i was in Italy.
>Xenia sended me pictures from the wedding so now you can se her with the
prinse here:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/xenia.htm


Bjarne


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Ladies,
May I - as a mere man - contribute something to this thread?
 
At one point in my life - because - after the "Lady Chatterley" case in the UK Courts - there were several publishers who subsequently reprinted a great deal of contemporary Victorian erotica - texts which originally appeared "underground" in the 1870's  - written about the 1850's period. 
Just like many other randy young English men of my own time, I read all those I could lay my hands on as they became available on the British market. 
 
Quite apart from the erotic content - as an amateur Historian, I was fascinated by the contemporary minutiae which tended to appear as "asides" in the various texts.  
For example, a character asks a Cabman to take him to the "In & Out" - a famous London Gentlemens' Club. This was the nickname of the Cavalry Club, where the building was set back from the main thoroughfare separated from the street by a low wall topped with tall ornamental iron railings, and pieced by 2 gateways, with signs one each reading "In & Out" - hence the Cabmen's and Hackney Drivers' nickname.
 
And in connection with your particular thread, I recall from a Victorian text the beginning of one seduction scene, where the aristocratic Lady involved is undressing for her lover....  "she undid the placket of her skirt, and let it  drop to the floor, revealing to my delighted eyes the truth of Abigail's boast that she had never in her life worn drawers, believing them vulgar..."   Now, I am aware that this is only one contemporary reference - but the Victorian author included it as a detail in verisimilitude for his Victorian readers. The original text for the story seems to have been written in the 1840's -  as I recall  the Publisher's Notes.  
Another contemporary Victorian story related a young Upper-Class man's adventures "with servant girls and other women of the Lower Classes" - and again, I recall that none of these girls are mentioned as wearing drawers of any kind.
While still on this threade of Victorian female underwear, there were/are repeated mentions of young men serving their upper-class lovers "in place of my maid" - and needing instructions on how to unlace corsets.
 
I am also reminded of various non-erotic gossip writings from the Georgian period and that of William IV - when the Empire Line dresses were in fashion, - many Diaries from that period having survived.
Apparently "fast" and daring young Upper-Class women sometimes omitted the opaque linen shift under their light overdresses, - which were often dampened to make them cling more closely to the body beneath, "thereby revealing the perfection of their forms, un-encumbered by underwear, to all prospective young suitors"; - and occasioned much scandalous gossip from older hostesses thereby. Lady Caroline Lamb [Lord Byron's mistress] is mentioned as having done so at one High Society Ball - well reported in surviving personal gossip writings of that year.
Just thought these items might add to this discussion about pre-19th C. & Victorian female underwear.
In Service,
Julian,
in "olde" jersey
Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net> wrote:

It just occurred to me that they were worn though prior to the 
1850s-60s crinolines though in the form of pantaloons in the early 1800s, werent they?

>From my reading of surviving and reprinted contemporary writings, it would seem that only the upper-class ladies could afford to spend money on bloomers/drawers - call them what you will. Lower-class women  - even "well-placed" servant girls - just didn't have the disposable income to do so. They seem to have had very few clothes - a set of outer "working clothes", and - if they were fortunate, a set of outerwear for "best".


On Sep 2, 2004, at 10:26 PM, Elizabeth Walpole wrote:
SNIP but I did see the rerun Oprah ran today about her short adventure there. She and her friend Gail had to remove all their underclothing when donning their costumes because they were told that panties were not worn until the 1800s. 
>> Now I always thought that bloomers of some type or another came in earlier than the 19th century. Am I wrong?
SNIP You are correct that drawers for women existed prior to the 19th  century,
 SNIP I've heard  some mention of drawers being a particularly slow fashion to spread into  England and equally slow to spread into the lower classes.
> Elizabeth

		
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In a message dated 9/4/2004 12:10:18 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
sbuchler@silicongenetics.com writes:
What were they called in period (tippets? or is that something else?)
Yes a tippet is something else--a long scarf or boa-type thing that goes 
around the neck and hangs down in front.

I think the puffs just tied on, too. The ones I've seen were filled with 
feathers.

There is a woman wearing all the 1820s-30s period underwear on p. 68 of 
"Fabric of Society," by Jane Tozer and Sarah Levitt.

Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1830s sleeve puffs
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The pair I have from this period have three short ties spaced so as to
fasten on the top of the armseye of the dress. I have seen another pair that
has both tie strings on the pad and these were mated to three tiny loops on
the dress.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sunny Buchler" <sbuchler@silicongenetics.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2004 12:08 AM
Subject: [h-cost] 1830s sleeve puffs


> Does anyone know how the sleeve puffs in the 1830s were attached? Just to
be clear, a picture of them can be found at:
http://www.kci.or.jp/cgi-bin/collection.cgi?lang=e&path=1820/09-009455_a
>
> - Were they usually part of the chemise?
> - Were they hooked/tied/tacked to the chemise or to the corset?
> - Were they simply tied to the arm -- is that enough to hold them in
place?
> - What were they called in period (tippets? or is that something else?)
>
> Thanks!
> -sunny
>
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julian wilson wrote:


> And in connection with your particular thread, I recall from a Victorian text the beginning of one seduction scene, where the aristocratic Lady involved is undressing for her lover....  "she undid the placket of her skirt, and let it  drop to the floor, revealing to my delighted eyes the truth of Abigail's boast that she had never in her life worn drawers, believing them vulgar..."   

Then again, it is supposed to be titillating. A lot of modern erotic 
fiction contains similar passages with descriptions of the young lady's 
underwear, or lack thereof.... but it doesn't represent what your 
average American Girl wears on a daily basis.



Dawn




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I have The Gallery of English Costume picture book number three Womens
Costumes 1800-1835.
Plate 15 shows a lady in full underwear.
Quoting: Underwear 1825 -35, Petticoat, white lawn, piped hem and
embroidered flounce. Three-flounce bustle of heavy cotton, dated 1833, white
cotton pocket; cotton sleeve puffs, down - filled; white cotton cap.
The piped hem supports the widening skirts; the bustle emphasises their
growing fullnes towards the back; sleave puffs support the swelling sleeves.
The pocket still has the 18th century shape; small bags were carried when
the skirt was narrow and clinging.
So they are simply called sleeve puffs................
Oh my these small catalogs i have from my first visit to London when i was
studying on the art school so many years ago...............

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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From: "lisa-list" <lisa-list@thrednedlestrete.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 19th century underwear
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Dawn wrote:

julian wilson wrote:


> And in connection with your particular thread, I recall from a Victorian
text the beginning of one seduction scene, where the aristocratic Lady
involved is undressing for her lover....  "she undid the placket of her
skirt, and let it  drop to the floor, revealing to my delighted eyes the
truth of Abigail's boast that she had never in her life worn drawers,
believing them vulgar..."

Then again, it is supposed to be titillating. A lot of modern erotic
fiction contains similar passages with descriptions of the young lady's
underwear, or lack thereof.... but it doesn't represent what your
average American Girl wears on a daily basis.

Dawn


Lisa writes:  I attended an interesting lecture by an anthropologist who
worked/works at Sutters Fort here in Sacramento.  She had a theory that
drawers did not become standard wearing attire until indoor toilets were the
norm.  I haven't looked into this at all, but her research was that if a
woman was not wearing drawers she could urinate outside standing up or
squating over a trench without having to lift her skirt up and could remain
modest during the process.  Lifting up skirts to drop ones drawers left one
exposed, possibly a vulgar sight?  Has anyone else come across this theory
or looked into women urinating over trenches?  And what about toilet paper?
If a woman did urinate over a trench, did she then have to lift her skirts
to use the same?  This lecture covered the Gold Rush period in California a
time period I know very little about.  Not quite as titillating an approch
as the erotic literature, but certainly something I'd consider when chosing
drawers or not.

Lisa Sinervo


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Hmmm, well . . . the female anatomy is not well designed for urinating 
standing up.  Males have a built-in funnel for directing the flow.  
Females don't.  Thus, females face the problem of spashing the insides 
of their thighs, their clothes, their shoes, etc.   This is even if the 
wind is not blowing.   Backpacking stores actually sell little devices 
called urinary directors to aid female campers who don't want to squat 
either in the woods or over a dirty portable toilet.

I've long considered much of Victorian modesty and morals as the 
difference between what everyone did and knew everyone else did, and 
what people (at least the genteel classes) were willing to talk about.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com


>I haven't looked into this at all, but her research was that if a
>woman was not wearing drawers she could urinate outside standing up or
>squating over a trench without having to lift her skirt up and could remain
>modest during the process. 
>  
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 19th century underwear
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And don't forget about periods. I don't imagine women from earlier ages 
would enjoying blood dripping down their legs every month any more than 
modern women would. They must have worn *something* to collect the monthly 
mess! I don't care what you might call it; it must have existed in some 
form or another.

Katie, who has a urinary problem and if she doesn't wear panties, always 
ends up with a few drops of urine on her thighs after urinating, no matter 
how well she drys herself <sigh>


>Hmmm, well . . . the female anatomy is not well designed for urinating 
>standing up.  Males have a built-in funnel for directing the flow.
>Females don't.  Thus, females face the problem of spashing the insides of 
>their thighs, their clothes, their shoes, etc.   This is even if the wind 
>is not blowing.   Backpacking stores actually sell little devices called 
>urinary directors to aid female campers who don't want to squat either in 
>the woods or over a dirty portable toilet.
>Fran



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From: "Carolann Schmitt" <cschmitt@genteelarts.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 19th century underwear
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Interesting theory, except that women's drawers from the mid-19th century
are usually open (no crotch seam), so there's no need to drop them.

I've been researching this topic for many years.  It appears that drawers
were not a common women's undergarment until the later decades of the 19th
century.  My focus is 1840-1870.  At the beginning of this period there are
relatively few references for them and quite a few references that indicate
they were not a commonly-worn undergarment.  This gradually changes as the
decades progress, and by the end of this particular era there many more
references indicating their gradual acceptance by a larger portion of the
adult female population.  A good indication for their commonality is the
suggested lists of clothing recommended for travelers, the newly-married,
establishing a household, etc. Other undergarments (chemises, petticoats,
nightgowns, etc.) appear on all of them, but drawers usually don't appear
with any regularity until the mid-late 1860s.

Carolann Schmitt
cschmitt@genteelarts.com
www.genteelarts.com



>Lisa writes:  I attended an interesting lecture by an anthropologist who
>worked/works at Sutters Fort here in Sacramento.  She had a theory that
>drawers did not become standard wearing attire until indoor toilets were
>the norm.  I haven't looked into this at all, but her research was that if
>a woman was not wearing drawers she could urinate outside standing up or
>squating over a trench without having to lift her skirt up and could remain
>modest during the process.  Lifting up skirts to drop ones drawers left one
>exposed, possibly a vulgar sight?  



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lisa-list wrote:
> Lifting up skirts to drop ones drawers left one
> exposed, possibly a vulgar sight?  Has anyone else come across this theory
> or looked into women urinating over trenches?  And what about toilet paper?
> If a woman did urinate over a trench, did she then have to lift her skirts
> to use the same?

First, you'd need to figure out if TP was used at all; it might not have 
been.  Assumptions and all that.

As for splashes, if squatting, it's not necessarily a problem.  Even 
standing up, a woman can do a fair imitation of what men do, with a 
little practice.

I'm fairly sure the menstrual discussion has happened on this list 
before, so there's probably some good research mentioned in the archives 
for those who are curious.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

For nonsqueamish gourmets: "At peace with my role in the food chain" BBQ 
Apron -- http://www.cafepress.com/virtueventures
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Hi,
Just want to tell that Lisselotte, living in 17th century france at the
french court (married to the kings brother) mentions that she wore trousers
in the wintertime for warmth. They were furred.
And the dutch maids when cleaning windows in 18th century always wore
trousers.
But this was out of nescesity.
And there are other refferenses i have from 18th century with trousers, but
only few.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Montreal
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Hi Brin,

Montreal has a fabric district where there are over 30 fabric stores along
three block stretch.  This is on Saint-Hubert street between Jean-Talon and
Villeray.  You can email me off-list about what types of fabric and price
range you're interested in and I can give you some suggestions.  The shops
range in price and quality from unknown fabrics at 50 cents a meter to silks
and wools upwars of 200$/meter.

cheers,

Joanna

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Edith Reardon" <edieann@telus.net>

Okay, I have finally booked our airfare and need a list of fabric shops to
shop at in Montreal.  Where, hours?? any suggestions would be greatly
appreciated.  Thanks

Brin Kendall

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From: Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1830s sleeve puffs
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The Museum of Fine Arts in Boston, in the Textile Department, (there are
days I miss working there) has a pair of sleeve puffs that are made of
lightweight china silk and are filled with down.  I don't recall any
fasteners, maybe they pinned in.  I need to make some sleeve puffs for
my 1830's gowns.

Katy

On Sat, 4 Sep 2004, Penny Ladnier wrote:

>Sunny,
>
>When I worked on an exhibit at the Valentine Museum, we had a set of the puffs.  They tied onto the arm.  The pair we had were filled with horsehair if I remember correctly.  They were very light.  They dated form the 1830s period.
>
>Penny E. Ladnier
>Owner, The Costume Gallery & Online Reference Library, AND Costume Classroom
>www.costumegallery.com
>www.costumegallery.com/research.htm
>www.costumeclassroom.com
>_______________________________________________
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Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2004 11:06:31 -0400
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 19th century underwear
From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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> From: Katie Pleasance <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
> 
> Katie, who has a urinary problem and if she doesn't wear panties, always
> ends up with a few drops of urine on her thighs after urinating, no matter
> how well she drys herself <sigh>

Not meaning to draw too much attention to the generous admission of a
difficulty, but now that my best friend is pregnant and discovering that the
propaganda about how wonderful a state ispregnancy isn't all true, I have
been thinking about all the relatively young and otherwise healthy and fit
women I've met in the present who ended up with some form of urinary
incontinence after childbirth, either short-term or long term. In eras
without corrective surgery for this, a generally higher number of
pregnancies and births per woman, and with what may well have been (I don't
want to get into the whole history of midwifery vs. organized medicine, for
that WOULD be off-topic) more difficult childbirths, there would have to
have been plenty of women with similar or worse incontinence. For which
traditional 19th-century split drawers would not have been an answer. I'm
under the impression that women wore belted cloths, like the old "sanitary
belt" with napkin, but done in rag fabric, for menstrual tidiness (I know
there's that guy at the museum who thinks they just dripped, but the
artifacts don't support it, no stained shifts) and I must guess that a
simlar arrangement must have been used for the incontinent.  But I'm quite
sure you wouldn't talk about it, any more than we are really comfortable
talking about  adult diapers today. However, in times when women may have
been pregnant or nursing more often than they were menstruating, adult
diapers for urine may have been more common than for menstruation. And I've
never seen anyone's research on that topic at all. But come to think of it,
do we have artifact evidence of baby's diapers?

Just thinking too much.
Lauren

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 19th century underwear
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On Sun, 5 Sep 2004, Lauren Walker wrote:

> I'm under the impression that women wore belted cloths, like the old
> "sanitary belt" with napkin, but done in rag fabric, for menstrual
> tidiness (I know there's that guy at the museum who thinks they just
> dripped, but the artifacts don't support it, no stained shifts) and I
> must guess that a simlar arrangement must have been used for the
> incontinent.  But I'm quite sure you wouldn't talk about it, any more
> than we are really comfortable talking about adult diapers today.
> However, in times when women may have been pregnant or nursing more
> often than they were menstruating, adult diapers for urine may have
> been more common than for menstruation. And I've never seen anyone's
> research on that topic at all. But come to think of it, do we have
> artifact evidence of baby's diapers?

Much much earlier than 19th c., there's one such artifact that I know of:
One of the female bodies at Herjolfsnes, Greenland, had a sealskin "belt"
arrangement that apparently held a linen (rag?) pad. The information is
tucked into the medical section of the 1924 archaeological report, not
with the clothing, so is often over looked by people who see and read only
the clothing section written by Norlund.

The doctor writing the medical analysis concluded from the deformities in
the woman's bones that she might have been incontinent, and deduced that
the pad was thus an incontinence pad. Heather Rose Jones has pointed out
on this list (and I agree) that it could as easily have been a menstrual
pad, a possibility not mentioned at all by the doctor. Either way, though,
it shows that at least one medieval woman had a means for catching fluids.
I find it particularly interesting that the people preparing her body for
burial did not remove the pad!

Anyway, I would think that the place to look for information on prevalence
of (and solutions for) incontinence would be in the 19th c. medical
literature. I wonder also whether the advertisements for patent medicines
and medical devices might have had a way of referring to this. There were
many devices for other highly personal body problems; surely incontinence
would not have been overlooked.

Hmm, maybe the U.S. Patent Office medical section. Every patented device
would have had an explanation submitted describing its purpose and use,
and why it is new and different compared to what is already in existence.

--Robin


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Lauren Walker wrote:

> there would have to
> have been plenty of women with similar or worse incontinence.

More manual labor might have kept the pelvic floor muscles much more 
toned back then.  Even today, doing kegel exercises resolve a 
significant number of these cases, although, yes, surgery is sometimes 
needed.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

Register to vote!  Don't let that other guy win!
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----- Original Message -----
From: Katie Pleasance <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
Date: Sat, 04 Sep 2004 09:37:51 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 19th century underwear

> And don't forget about periods. I don't imagine women from earlier ages 
> would enjoying blood dripping down their legs every month any more than 
> modern women would. They must have worn *something* to collect the monthly 
> mess! 

This is *purely* oral history, so it may not be quite correct, especially since the initial source was male (my Great-Grandfather),although living in a one room cabin would make it difficult to remain totally ignorant of these things.  According to my Grandma, he said that when he was a boy (1890's *very* rural Kentucky) that women didn't wear drawers because the Bible forbade women wearing pants.  When they were mentruating, they used rags held in place by a belt-like affair.  So I wouldn't dismiss out of hand the possibility that women in at least some times and places used specially built devices for their periods, and wore no underpants the rest of the time.

-Katie
Xander: You up for a little reconnaissance? 
Buffy: You mean where we all sculpt and paint and stuff? 
Xander: No, that was the Renaissance. 






-- 
_______________________________________________
Find what you are looking for with the Lycos Yellow Pages
http://r.lycos.com/r/yp_emailfooter/http://yellowpages.lycos.com/default.asp?SRC=lycos10

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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On Sun, 5 Sep 2004, kathleen lewis wrote:

> ... he said that when he was a boy (1890's *very* rural Kentucky) that
> women didn't wear drawers because the Bible forbade women wearing
> pants.  When they were mentruating, they used rags held in place by a
> belt-like affair.  So I wouldn't dismiss out of hand the possibility
> that women in at least some times and places used specially built
> devices for their periods, and wore no underpants the rest of the
> time.

The last time this topic was discussed here, someone made an important
point that bears repeating: Until quite recently (within my memory),
menstrual protection and underwear were two different, unrelated things.
When I started my period in the mid-1970s, we were still using belts to
hold up our pads. We wore panties, too, but that didn't have anything to
do with the menstrual issue.

For that matter, it was also common not to wear panties when wearing
pantyhose. You could still wear a belt and pad with pantyhose, but you
didn't need separate panties.

Victorian drawers (and drawers of other historic eras), being loose and
sometimes crotchless too, would have done nothing to contain menstrual
fluids (or urine, in the case of incontinence). So menstrual protection
wouldn't depend on the use or non-use of drawers, and the use of drawers
wouldn't be a response to the need for monthly protection. (If it were,
they'd be shaped a lot differently!)

So the answer to the "did they wear drawers" question really doesn't have
anything to do with the "how did they handle menstrual bleeding" question.

--Robin


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Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2004 18:32:45 -0400
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 19th century underwear
From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
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--
> From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
> 
> Much much earlier than 19th c., there's one such artifact that I know of:
> One of the female bodies at Herjolfsnes, Greenland, had a sealskin "belt"
> arrangement that apparently held a linen (rag?) pad. The information is
> tucked into the medical section of the 1924 archaeological report, not
> with the clothing, so is often over looked by people who see and read only
> the clothing section written by Norlund.

> Anyway, I would think that the place to look for information on prevalence
> of (and solutions for) incontinence would be in the 19th c. medical
> literature. I wonder also whether the advertisements for patent medicines
> and medical devices might have had a way of referring to this.

Thanks for the great info from Herjolfsnes! That is VERY cool. Especially as
I, too, remember being issued a belt by my mom in the 1970s. How charming to
think of it as relatively unchanged since 1300!

Meanwhile, the one patent device I've encountered in 19th century medical
manuals that relates to incontinence is the pessary. (A donut-shaped device
of rubber worn about as you'd wear a diaphragm today; I think prior to the
rubber ones they may have existed in wood.) The idea is if your incontinence
is from uterine prolapse, the pessary may help stand the uterus into a
better position, not flopped over on the bladder. But they may also have
worked to help put a little pressure on the urethra, to help keep it closed.
In the present, women with slight incontinence are sometimes advised to wear
a tampon or a diaphragm to put the same kind of slight pressure on the
urethra. 

But yes, indeed, the pad issue is different from the underpants issue. I am,
however, curious about both. There's a writer of medieval murder mysteries
who at one point issues her female character a pair of braies (and, in fact,
an excruciatingly hip little discussion of them with her new husband) for
holding her menstrual clouts, and for some reason this bothered the heck out
of me, because braies wouldn't really hold a clout all that well.  I am on
the whole much inclined to believe in belts and cloths, and to accept their
irrelevance to the pantaloon debate. Thank you all!
Lauren

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PS: In fact, I would think that menstruation and incontinence might to some
extent militate AGAINST women's underpants. Underpants would be at too much
risk of getting dirty and tangling with the belt-and-pad arrangements. As, I
guarantee you, they did in the 1970s!

-- 

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Address, Costume journal
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Does anyone have a current issue of Costume (journal of the UK costume
society) handy? I need an address for the editor, Ann Saunders. My last
issue handy is a few years old, so I want to be sure I have one that's
current, and the website has only the membership address.

Off-list reply is fine. Thanks.

--Robin

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I had the address after all. Sorry...

--Robin

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In a message dated 9/4/04 1:21:45 PM Central Daylight Time, 
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:
Just want to tell that Lisselotte, living in 17th century france at the
french court (married to the kings brother) mentions that she wore trousers
in the wintertime for warmth. 

I remember reading in Margaret George's biography of Mary QOS, that Mary and 
her ladies often wore men's breeches for riding and masquing.  I've always 
wanted to ask the author if she had a solid historical reference for that, or if 
it was artistic license.

**Tiff**
eBay Selling ID: Reflections*of*Worth
Historical Reproductions and Costumes
"Education is a progressive discovery of our own ignorance." -Will Durant
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 19th century underwear
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At 6:32 PM -0400 9/5/04, Lauren Walker wrote:

>But yes, indeed, the pad issue is different from the underpants issue. I am,
>however, curious about both. There's a writer of medieval murder mysteries
>who at one point issues her female character a pair of braies (and, in fact,
>an excruciatingly hip little discussion of them with her new husband) for
>holding her menstrual clouts, and for some reason this bothered the heck out
>of me, because braies wouldn't really hold a clout all that well.  I am on
>the whole much inclined to believe in belts and cloths, and to accept their
>irrelevance to the pantaloon debate. Thank you all!

If you're thinking of the Sharan Newman novel, the author has said in 
as many words, "I made that up because it seemed logical to me." 
(Not that we'd any of us be using historic novels as research sources 
for historic costume, of course!)

Heather
-- 
****
Heather Rose Jones
heather.jones@earthlink.net
****
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I love Margaret George's books; they are very rich with details.  I had her
mailing address somewhere around here as I have written her before.  She
does a lot of research for her writing, though I'm sure it's laced with
artistic license as any other fiction author would do.  If I can't find her
address this week, you could try writing St. Martin's Press, her publisher,
and they'll forward your request.

Becky



-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Theflamingneedle@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2004 5:58 PM
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] underwear

In a message dated 9/4/04 1:21:45 PM Central Daylight Time, 
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:
Just want to tell that Lisselotte, living in 17th century france at the
french court (married to the kings brother) mentions that she wore trousers
in the wintertime for warmth. 

I remember reading in Margaret George's biography of Mary QOS, that Mary and

her ladies often wore men's breeches for riding and masquing.  I've always 
wanted to ask the author if she had a solid historical reference for that,
or if 
it was artistic license.

**Tiff**
eBay Selling ID: Reflections*of*Worth
Historical Reproductions and Costumes
"Education is a progressive discovery of our own ignorance." -Will Durant
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume



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Hi, folks. Many of you may recall that I'm editing a new academic journal,
Medieval Clothing & Textiles. The first volume is in production now, and
I'm responding to some questions from the publisher's marketing
department.

One of the things the publisher asked for is a list of the various
organizations that should receive announcements for publication in their
newsletters (and, in some cases, review copies for their journals). I've
put together a sizable list -- there are a surprising lot of dress and
textile organizations out there! -- but of course there's a good chance
I've missed someone. So, I'd like to run it past you folks to see if you
can spot the gaps.

Please note that I am looking for academic or scholarly organizations that
have a significant interest in costume and textile topics and/or medieval
material culture. I am not looking for individual academic programs,
universities, or experts -- I'm looking for the professional organizations
those people would belong to. I'm particularly interested in European
organizations and journals, as I know only the UK-based ones.

Also, please note that this list does *not* include re-enactment
organizations; see my next message for that.

Here's what I've got:

UK/Europe:
Costume Society of Great Britain (journal: Costume)
Medieval Dress and Textiles Society (MEDATS)
North European Symposium for Archaeological Textiles (NESAT)
Pasold Research Fund (journal: Textile History)
Textile Society (journal: Text)
Archaeological Textiles Newsletter
Dyes in History and Archaeology
Monumental Brass Society

US/Canada:
DISTAFF
Costume Society of America
Costume Society of Ontario 
Textile Society of America
Group for Costume and Textile Staff in Museums
AVISTA
International Costume Guild
Medieval Textile Study Group of the Complex Weavers' Guild
U.S. Institute of Theater Technology

So, what did I miss?

One particular request: Is there an organization or study group that
serves students/scholars working in historical embroidery? I think I've
got the right one for medieval weaving techniques, but I don't know if
there are equivalents in other fiber arts. We have a strong article on
early medieval embroidery in this volume, so I really want to contact
people in that field.

Next question: Can anyone name major conferences that would reach our
target audience, *other than* Kalamazoo, Leeds, MLA, and the meetings of
the groups named above? Would Convergence be a good place to make this
journal available? (If so, where can I get information on it?) Any others?

Thanks all!

--Robin



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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Sep  6 00:38:19 2004
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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As I just described in my previous message, I'm putting together some
marketing information to assist the publisher of the new journal, Medieval
Clothing & Textiles, of which I'm an editor. One of the things I'm
compiling is a list of re-enactment groups that cover this period that
should receive notices of the availability of the journal.

Yes, there's probably a web page somewhere that lists a bunch of groups,
but what I'd really like is personal recommendations to help me separate
out the type of group we should send flyers to. I have to get this list
done posthaste, so I'm not going to spend time researching every possible
group myself; if it's too obscure to be known to people on this list, it's
probably not large enough to need a flyer. The point here is simply to
make sure that anyone who might want to buy the journal will hear about
it. (Yes, I'll be sending out appropriate notices to the usual e-mail
lists, for forwarding on. That's not what I'm talking about here.) So I'm
really looking for groups large enough to have their own newsletters or
communications who would want to then spread the word to their members.
We'll trust that the smaller local companies will hear about the journal
through other avenues.

Obviously the SCA is on my list. Beyond that, in the U.S., I can
think of:
	La Belle Compagnie
	Company of St. George (maybe?)
Any other major medieval re-enactment or living history groups out there
that would fit the description above? I'll need contact info, too, so I 
can tell the publisher where to send the flyer. And does anyone have
contact info for St. George?

Meanwhile, my UK co-editor has sent me a list she's got of UK re-enactment
groups, but it's focused on the earlier Middle Ages, cutting off about
1300, so I need the names of major groups that cover 14th, 15th, and 16th
centuries. So, additions are welcome (with contact info, please!). Also,
if you know of any reason I shouldn't include any of these (e.g. if
they've dissolved, changed name, etc.), please let me know! Here's what
she sent:

Da Engliscan Gesidas
The Vikings
The Dark Age Society
Angelcynn (I need a current contact address!)
Anmod Dracan
Brittania
Combrogi
Colchester Historical Enactment Society
Regia Anglorum
The Vikings of Middle England
Conquest
Escalfeld Medieval Society
The White Company
Theod
Wuffingas

Finally: What about groups outside the US and UK -- elsewhere in Europe,
or in Australia? If they're of the type I describe above, please send me
the name and contact info.

Many many many thanks to all.

--Robin




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I wanted to thank all of you who responded to my request. Looks like a bit 
of pinning and steaming ahead for me.

Thanks!

Kimiko

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 19th century underwear
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----- Original Message -----
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2004 12:22:05 -0500 (CDT)
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 19th century underwear
> The last time this topic was discussed here, someone made an important
> point that bears repeating: Until quite recently (within my memory),
> menstrual protection and underwear were two different, unrelated things.
 

Thank you!  This was the point that I was trying to make, but I haven't researched the issue enough to feel comfortable making the statement so plainly.

-Katie
Xander: You up for a little reconnaissance? 
Buffy: You mean where we all sculpt and paint and stuff? 
Xander: No, that was the Renaissance. 






-- 
_______________________________________________
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Katie Pleasance" <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2004 2:37 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 19th century underwear


> And don't forget about periods. I don't imagine women from earlier ages
> would enjoying blood dripping down their legs every month any more than
> modern women would. They must have worn *something* to collect the monthly
> mess! I don't care what you might call it; it must have existed in some
> form or another.
>
but it wouldn't have been underwear in the sense that we would understand
it, until the invention of modern adhesive pads (in the 1960s-70s) your pad
(usually wads of cloth) was suspended from a belt, Victorian underwear would
have been useless to catch much flow of blood because it didn't fit closely
enough and anything non elasticised that fits as closely as modern underwear
would have been extremely restrictive.
Elizabeth
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
Elizabeth Beaumont              Elizabeth Walpole
Politarchopolis, Lochac     Canberra Australia
             ewalpole@austar.net.au

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Hi Cynthia

> Robin Netherton wrote:
> > the interesting theory (from Stevie Gamble, on this list) that the 
> > regular pleats/folds that occur on the outside are a  function of
the 
> > pressure from the regular vertical parallel seams used to piece 
> > hundreds of inch-wide squirrel skins into a larger fur lining.
> 
> That is intriguing indeed.
> 
> However, a full interior fur lining would make the garments very thick

> through the body, especially considering how wide they are to be 
> gathered in by the belt.  The images are universally narrow  through
the 
> body, not more than one would expect with just fabric layers.
> 
> With fur, a garment like that compresses, empty, to the size of an 
> average woman's torso, and larger if it is a thicker fur; the  images,
if 
> they were all fur lined, would make every woman wearing a  houppelande
to 
> look extremly thick-bodied.
> 
> Granted, there's some artistic license going on here, but  that
extreme a 
> difference?  And every artist from tapestries to  illuminations doing
the 
> same thing?  I have doubts.

I used to think that too - until I encountered a rectangle of some
extremely fine furs with the softest, thinest, supplest skins that I had
ever seen.  It was second hand, about the size of a rug or throw for
covering an armchair, more expensive than I could afford and the
shopkeeper had no  idea what animals it was made from.

It was fine and supple enough for me to scrunch the whole width of it in
one hand so my fingers could meet ariound it.  The individial pieces
were of a uniform size  that (at a guess, and from memory) were roughly
3 or 4 inches wide and 6 or 7 inches long and it was a sandy/greyish
colour.

A garement lined in that, even a very full garment, would not add much
to the overall thickness through the body.... when you take into account
the amount of artistic licence and the possible slimness of the original
models, I don't think it's so far fetched

I just wish I could have afforded to buy the piece

Teddy
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From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Paintings of Pregnant Women
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> Sometime in the last week or two, someone was looking for paintings of
> pregnant women.  While looking for books, I came across this
"Visitation" by
> Marx Reichlich, ca 1511.  Both the Virgin and St Anne are  visibly
pregnant
> (complete with tiny fetuses having a meet-and-greet between  their
bellies)
> and wearing much more archaic clothing (cyclas-type surcoat, loose
gowns,
> wimple, veils) than the two other women on the street, who  look very
16c
> German.
> 
> http://cgfa.sunsite.dk/r/p-reichli1.htm

Is it just me or are they carrying those babies very low and aren't the
bumps a bit on the far-gone side for such small foetuses??

OK, OK, I know - artistic liscence and all that - but even so....

Teddy
 
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How would an individual person subscribe to your new journal?

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

Register to vote!  Don't let that other guy win!
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Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> cvirtue+dated+1109548895.c2cb5d@thibault.org 01/09/2004 01:03:07
>>>wrote:

>A side note, not on this topic: Those of you who are relatively new to

>email discussions may not know that it is standard to put comments
>and replies under what you're replying to (if you quote it at all). 
Having 
>your bit on top can be confusing, because it's harder to follow the
>flow of discussion.

I tend to put my comments on top because my email programme annoyingly
inserts my automatic signature on top even when I've typed my message
underneath!


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> One particular request: Is there an organization or study group that
> serves students/scholars working in historical embroidery? 
One of my favorites is Historical needlework.  the contact is:
Send questions to h-needlework-admin@ansteorra.org.

Rowena


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Medieval History Magazine is a really lovely glossy magazine published in England that is now being distributed in the U.S. by Chivalry Bookshelf (Brian Price's company).  They do several book reviews in each issue and are somewhat geared to the re-enactor crowd.  I will look up the copy I got at Pennsic to send you an address.

Janet
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pregnancy pillows 1550-1600?
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Yes, I think we're so attuned to the modern ideal of the slim figure
with flat stomach that we think of a prominent abdomen as indicating
pregnancy, whereas in the various eras when bulky skirts were worn it
was the normal feminine look and not considered unattractive.
Think of the famous Arnolfini portrait
http://gallery.euroweb.hu/index1.html  (look under Eyck). I've heard
speculation over whether it was a wedding-day portrait and whether the
wife was pregnant, whereas it's clear from the detail shot that the
gathers below her waist go down *behind* the heavy mass of fabric she's
holding in front of her. It simply shows that she can afford to dress in
yards and yards of woollen cloth.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> robin@shell.nightowl.net 28/08/2004 16:54:51 >>> wrote:
>There are also some books that claim that women wore "pregnancy
>pillows" under early 15th c. dresses. As far as I know, that idea is a
>completely unsupported modern guess by people who can't fathom the
>idea that women, in the right clothing, will naturally stand in a
posture >that modern eyes interpret as "pregnant." 
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Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> stilskin@netspace.net.au 29/08/2004 04:16:48 >>>
>Fact:  The original Hamlet was written in Denmark about 100 years
>before Shakespeare's birth. Shakespeare did not write the play but did
>a scene-by-scene adaptation of the original without credit to the
 >original.

>-C.

 Well, yes, a lot of Shakespeare's fictional plays are based on
existing stories, as are those of some other Renaissance playwrights,
but that doesn't make them "not their work".


>
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In Britain, "busking" is what street musicians do.


Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> cley@juno.com 30/08/2004 15:20:38 >>>
Busking is a term used by entertainers at Renn Faires and similiar
activities. Basically, performers go and do their thing, then pass the
hat.

Tried an alternate spelling, maybe 'busque'?

Arlys

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Medieval re-enactment organizations
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Robin wrote:

>Finally: What about groups outside the US and UK -- elsewhere in Europe,
or in Australia? If they're of the type I describe above, please send me
the name and contact info.

http://www.arlho.net/ is a link to the The Australasian Register of Living
History Organisations

http://qlhf.cjb.net/ is the Queensland Living History Federation there may
be similar organisations in other states.

Lisa Sinervo


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Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> brujne@creighton.edu 02/09/2004 22:03:02 >>>

>I hope to see this movie this weekend. Reportedly, the director asked
>Reece's husband, if he wouldn't mind trying to get Reece pregnant
>before filming started so she would have the correct Regency look,
>which the current Hollywood aesthetic ideal contradicts.

I hope he asked her if she'd mind as well!

Seriously, I'm puzzled by this. I've always thought of the Regency
"look" as being slim and columnar (as a reaction against the full skirts
of the 18th century). Apparently the actress who played Jane Bennett in
the BBC "Pride and Prejudice" was pregnant at the time and was able to
conceal it under the high-waisted gowns, but I don't understand why
pregnancy should be considered desirable for the period look. Anyway, I
thought the Regency was a populoar style?

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Sorry Robin, for not picking out which groups are the best.  I don't know
them that well anymore.  What about museums?  Are you contacting Textile
museums too?  If so, I'd send something to the Abbey Museum of Art &
Archaology admin@abbeymuseum.asn.au /
http://www.abbeymuseum.asn.au/index.htm

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of lisa-list
Sent: Monday, September 06, 2004 7:15 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Medieval re-enactment organizations


Robin wrote:

>Finally: What about groups outside the US and UK -- elsewhere in Europe,
or in Australia? If they're of the type I describe above, please send me
the name and contact info.

http://www.arlho.net/ is a link to the The Australasian Register of Living
History Organisations

http://qlhf.cjb.net/ is the Queensland Living History Federation there may
be similar organisations in other states.

Lisa Sinervo


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In a message dated 9/6/2004 10:26:10 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk writes:
but I don't understand why
pregnancy should be considered desirable for the period look. Anyway, I
thought the Regency was a populoar style?
I wondered about that, too, but then think perhaps that the too-thin look of 
many of today's actresses would not come across well--you need a little bosom 
to carry off the look!

Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] was Re: breast exposure article
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As a top-poster I guess I have to join in sometime.
Actually I post in various spots depending on the nature of the post:
 If I have a brief comment (1-5 lines) on a post by somebody else, I just
stick it on top because scrolling down just to find "I agree!" is pretty
irritating and the original post is fully visible below the little comment.
 If I'm replying to just a little piece of the previous posting or to
various small bits, I snip and interline (sounds like sewing!).
 If I have a LONG comment, I post below.

But as a reader I actually prefer seeing top postings, because I check the
list frequently and usually remember the discussion well enough from the
Subject line to need to read only the latest posting, or at most the last
two--and in this case again, scrolling all the way down is irritating.

Anyway, hey, I live in a democracy of diverse components and enjoy the list
in the same sense.  The only postings that really bother me are the ones
that offer a brief comment ("I agree," "Can you send me the url?",
"beautiful!") with NO context whatsoever!

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

p.s. Sorry-just violated my own rule by posting a longer comment at the top!


on 9/6/04 7:47 AM, Kate M Bunting at K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk wrote:

> 
> 
> Kate Bunting
> Library, University of Derby
> 
>>>> cvirtue+dated+1109548895.c2cb5d@thibault.org 01/09/2004 01:03:07
>>>> wrote:
> 
>> A side note, not on this topic: Those of you who are relatively new to
> 
>> email discussions may not know that it is standard to put comments
>> and replies under what you're replying to (if you quote it at all).
> Having 
>> your bit on top can be confusing, because it's harder to follow the
>> flow of discussion.
> 
> I tend to put my comments on top because my email programme annoyingly
> inserts my automatic signature on top even when I've typed my message
> underneath!
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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On Mon, 6 Sep 2004, Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> How would an individual person subscribe to your new journal?

I'll let the list know when it's available. We're scheduled to launch
officially at Kalamazoo in May 2005, though it might actually be out
earlier. It'll be for sale (by single issue or subscription) via certain
booksellers and also on the website of the publisher, Boydell & Brewer,
which publishes a number of journals.

While some individuals may want subscriptions, I expect that most will
look at the table of contents of each volume and decide whether they want
that particular issue, and buy one at a time.

Still not sure whether these will be paperback or hardback, but right now
a cheaper hardback with a jacket (rather than the expensive hardbacks
first suggested to us) is also a possibility.

--Robin

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On Mon, 6 Sep 2004, Home Ec wrote:

> > One particular request: Is there an organization or study group that
> > serves students/scholars working in historical embroidery? 

> One of my favorites is Historical needlework.  the contact is:
> Send questions to h-needlework-admin@ansteorra.org.

To reiterate what I mentioned in my post: I'm looking for academic
organizations for a (snail-mail) mailing list for the publisher to send
announcements to. I'll get the e-mail groups/lists via online channels.

--Robin

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On Mon, 6 Sep 2004, lisa-list wrote:

> Sorry Robin, for not picking out which groups are the best.  I don't know
> them that well anymore.  What about museums?  Are you contacting Textile
> museums too?  If so, I'd send something to the Abbey Museum of Art &
> Archaology admin@abbeymuseum.asn.au /

Museums, universities, and libraries are already on the publisher's
standard list. They need us to provide the specialist organizations,
conferences, etc. they might not ordinarily contact.

--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] simplicity Henry 8 pattern
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forgive me if this is not the proper forum -- but I'd like to find the
two Henry VIII patterns that Simplicity did 9650 and 9633 but they are
long out of print.  Does anybody know where I might get these?

Thanks,
susan (mom to the child who wants one!)
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In a message dated 9/5/04 10:07:46 PM Central Daylight Time, 
rreed@indirectobject.com writes:
If I can't find her
address this week, you could try writing St. Martin's Press, her publisher,
and they'll forward your request.

Becky

She actually has a website now, www.margaretgeorge.com.  I keep meaning to 
write to her, but I've never gotten around to it.

**Tiff**
eBay Selling ID: Reflections*of*Worth
Historical Reproductions and Costumes
"Education is a progressive discovery of our own ignorance." -Will Durant
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] simplicity Henry 8 pattern
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In a message dated 9/6/04 12:25:32 PM Central Daylight Time, 
sfarmer@sabre.goldsword.com writes:
forgive me if this is not the proper forum -- but I'd like to find the
two Henry VIII patterns that Simplicity did 9650 and 9633 but they are
long out of print.  Does anybody know where I might get these?

Thanks,
susan (mom to the child who wants one!)


Definitely keep an eye on eBay, because that would probably be the least 
expensive way to get one and I often see OOP patterns listed there.  Another 
option is www.monsterpatterns.com.  

**Tiff**
eBay Selling ID: Reflections*of*Worth
Historical Reproductions and Costumes
"Education is a progressive discovery of our own ignorance." -Will Durant
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Subject: [h-cost] How to draft a neckline
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I was looking through my old threads. In the Feb/March 1987 on page 46
is an article on "A Linen Shift: Plain Sewing Make sthe Most of Your
Fabric".

It looks easy enough but I really don't know how to draft a neckline. 

Any suggestion or advice? 

Onaree
-- 
Proud list mom of  Irish Crochet Lovers
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Irish_Crochet_Lovers/
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Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2004 22:14:48 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] How to draft a neckline
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Are you just looking for a simple round neckline?  One of my friends 
recently gave me this formula for t-tunics, for making sure your 
neckline is big enough and doesn't come up too high at the front:

Take your collar measurement and divide by 5.
Starting from the centre of a straight line across where the neckline 
will be, the back is one inch down and one-fifth of the measurement to 
either side. The front is one fifth down and one fifth to either side.

That gives you your minimum, then you can make it wider, or lower at the 
front, or whatever you want for the fashion aspect.

Jean


Ms Berard <msberard@earthlink.net> wrote
>I was looking through my old threads. In the Feb/March 1987 on page 46
>is an article on "A Linen Shift: Plain Sewing Make sthe Most of Your
>Fabric".
>
>It looks easy enough but I really don't know how to draft a neckline.
>
>Any suggestion or advice?
>
>Onaree

-- 
Jean Waddie
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More of a scoop neckline, but I'm not good with curves.

But thanks for the advice.

Onaree

Jean Waddie wrote:
> 
> Are you just looking for a simple round neckline?  One of my friends
> recently gave me this formula for t-tunics, for making sure your
> neckline is big enough and doesn't come up too high at the front:
> 
> Take your collar measurement and divide by 5.
> Starting from the centre of a straight line across where the neckline
> will be, the back is one inch down and one-fifth of the measurement to
> either side. The front is one fifth down and one fifth to either side.
> 
> That gives you your minimum, then you can make it wider, or lower at the
> front, or whatever you want for the fashion aspect.
> 
> Jean
> 

-- 
Proud list mom of  Irish Crochet Lovers
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Irish_Crochet_Lovers/
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Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2004 19:44:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: Janet Renzetti <celtic_dragonrider@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] simplicity Henry 8 pattern
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Status: RO

try ebay

Susan Farmer <sfarmer@sabre.goldsword.com> wrote:forgive me if this is not the proper forum -- but I'd like to find the
two Henry VIII patterns that Simplicity did 9650 and 9633 but they are
long out of print. Does anybody know where I might get these?

Thanks,
susan (mom to the child who wants one!)
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1830s sleeve puffs
Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2004 16:45:26 -0700
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Penny Ladnier wrote:
> When I worked on an exhibit at the Valentine Museum, we had a 
> set of the puffs.  They tied onto the arm.  The pair we had 
> were filled with horsehair if I remember correctly.  They 
> were very light.  They dated form the 1830s period.

Thanks! Sorry for the delay in responding -- Can you simply tie them tight enough that they won't slip down the arm? My arm is widest at the part where it would have to be tied...
	Thanks again! 
		-sunny

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I know of, but I don't know if it is the offical name...but the Renn Fare (SP?)

Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:
As I just described in my previous message, I'm putting together some
marketing information to assist the publisher of the new journal, Medieval
Clothing & Textiles, of which I'm an editor. One of the things I'm
compiling is a list of re-enactment groups that cover this period that
should receive notices of the availability of the journal.

Yes, there's probably a web page somewhere that lists a bunch of groups,
but what I'd really like is personal recommendations to help me separate
out the type of group we should send flyers to. I have to get this list
done posthaste, so I'm not going to spend time researching every possible
group myself; if it's too obscure to be known to people on this list, it's
probably not large enough to need a flyer. The point here is simply to
make sure that anyone who might want to buy the journal will hear about
it. (Yes, I'll be sending out appropriate notices to the usual e-mail
lists, for forwarding on. That's not what I'm talking about here.) So I'm
really looking for groups large enough to have their own newsletters or
communications who would want to then spread the word to their members.
We'll trust that the smaller local companies will hear about the journal
through other avenues.

Obviously the SCA is on my list. Beyond that, in the U.S., I can
think of:
La Belle Compagnie
Company of St. George (maybe?)
Any other major medieval re-enactment or living history groups out there
that would fit the description above? I'll need contact info, too, so I 
can tell the publisher where to send the flyer. And does anyone have
contact info for St. George?

Meanwhile, my UK co-editor has sent me a list she's got of UK re-enactment
groups, but it's focused on the earlier Middle Ages, cutting off about
1300, so I need the names of major groups that cover 14th, 15th, and 16th
centuries. So, additions are welcome (with contact info, please!). Also,
if you know of any reason I shouldn't include any of these (e.g. if
they've dissolved, changed name, etc.), please let me know! Here's what
she sent:

Da Engliscan Gesidas
The Vikings
The Dark Age Society
Angelcynn (I need a current contact address!)
Anmod Dracan
Brittania
Combrogi
Colchester Historical Enactment Society
Regia Anglorum
The Vikings of Middle England
Conquest
Escalfeld Medieval Society
The White Company
Theod
Wuffingas

Finally: What about groups outside the US and UK -- elsewhere in Europe,
or in Australia? If they're of the type I describe above, please send me
the name and contact info.

Many many many thanks to all.

--Robin




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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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We always follow the conventional publishing wisdom that it's worth 
sending a press release to any publication at all likely to announce the 
book. The cost is only a sheet or two of paper, an envelope, and a 
stamp.  It's not worth agonizing over who gets a press release.  If 
you're in doubt, put the publication on the list and keep them there 
unless they ask to be removed.  The latter is infrequent.   It's part of 
a periodical editor's job to read press releases--it's not like a 
personal spam. 

Review copies are much more expensive.  They should go only to 
publications whose circulation is large enough for a review to do some 
good. And that are (a) very likely to publish a review or (b) so very 
important that a review would be especially valuable, even if review 
chances are rather remote.  Review copies sent elsewhere tend to wind up 
at the editorial assistant's local used bookstore, and suchlike venues.  
We only send out 10 or 12 review copies per book.  Anyway, you probably 
already know about any publication that is that important to your market.

Pretty much any US publication and organization of any size, plus many 
smaller ones, and many UK organizations too, are on the Internet.  This 
helps a great deal in researching publications. If an organization does 
not make it clear whether they publish a newsletter, we just email them 
and say we are thinking of sending a press release; so do they have a 
newsletter, what is its  name, and  how do we contact the editor?   
Putting together a list of media is time consuming but pretty 
straightforward.

Hope this helps.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com







>Yes, there's probably a web page somewhere that lists a bunch of groups,
>but what I'd really like is personal recommendations to help me separate
>out the type of group we should send flyers to. 
>  
>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1830s sleeve puffs
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I just wanted to say thank-you to everyone who has responded to my sleeve-puff question! It has helped a lot :-)
	Thanks!
		-sunny

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: OT: standards of reply
Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2004 21:43:27 -0400
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On Wednesday 01 September 2004 12:51 pm, Chris Laning wrote:
> I'm continually amazed by the people who flatly declare "top posting is
> rude" simply because that is what they've been told -- without taking into
> account any of the other factors that have been listed: varying levels of
> e-mail experience, the biases of one's software, et cetera. For some people
> it seems to have become a "religious" issue, i.e. a firmly held belief not
> subject to rational discussion, rather like Mac versus PC or Opera versus
> any other browser <grin>.

I personally do not mind top posting if the post is short  (3-5 lines) and is 
responding to a similarly short post or portion of a post.  What is truly 
annoying is to have to scroll back down a long, unexcerpted message merely to 
figure out how the top post is responsive.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] simplicity Henry 8 pattern
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Theflamingneedle@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 9/6/04 12:25:32 PM Central Daylight Time, 
> sfarmer@sabre.goldsword.com writes:
> forgive me if this is not the proper forum -- but I'd like to find the
> two Henry VIII patterns that Simplicity did 9650 and 9633 but they are
> long out of print.  Does anybody know where I might get these?

I would suggest contacting Simplicity and asking if they have any left 
in the warehouse. They do sell remainders after they pull a pattern. 
However, it's been over a year, so you may not have luck there.

> Definitely keep an eye on eBay, because that would probably be the least 
> expensive way to get one and I often see OOP patterns listed there.  Another 
> option is www.monsterpatterns.com.  

Ebay maybe. Monsterpatterns.com got smacked for selling the big 3 
without license and didn't carry that brand last time I looked.



Dawn



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] simplicity Henry 8 pattern
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In a message dated 9/6/04 9:30:38 PM Central Daylight Time, dawn@reddawn.net 
writes:
Monsterpatterns.com got smacked for selling the big 3 
without license and didn't carry that brand last time I looked.


I was just on their website today, and they are carrying Simplicity, 
McCall's, Butterick, Vogue, and New Look patterns currently.

**Tiff**
eBay Selling ID: Reflections*of*Worth
Historical Reproductions and Costumes
"Education is a progressive discovery of our own ignorance." -Will Durant
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From: Kristalori History <jacquelinejbump@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] simplicity Henry 8 pattern
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I was there too (monsterpatterns) and they had lots of every company.
Plus if you google it all sorts of the little pattern web stores have
it I notice.

On Mon, 6 Sep 2004 22:35:36 EDT, theflamingneedle@aol.com 
> I was just on their website today, and they are carrying Simplicity,
> McCall's, Butterick, Vogue, and New Look patterns currently.
> 
> **Tiff**
-- 
"Pardon me, Lady Tudor Glitz, but telling people things aren't period isn't
period." 
Italian Ladies 2005 Calendar
http://www.lulu.com/kristalori
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] PS on underwear
Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2004 22:59:12 -0400
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On Sunday 05 September 2004 6:35 pm, Lauren Walker wrote:
> PS: In fact, I would think that menstruation and incontinence might to some
> extent militate AGAINST women's underpants. Underpants would be at too much
> risk of getting dirty and tangling with the belt-and-pad arrangements. As,
> I guarantee you, they did in the 1970s!

Agreed.  I *hated* the belt and pad set up.  Fortunately, the pads you stick 
on the crotch of your underwear were invented shortly after I began 
menstruating.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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On Mon, 6 Sep 2004, Lavolta Press wrote:

> We always follow the conventional publishing wisdom that it's worth
> sending a press release to any publication at all likely to announce
> the book. The cost is only a sheet or two of paper, an envelope, and a
> stamp.  It's not worth agonizing over who gets a press release.  If
> you're in doubt, put the publication on the list and keep them there
> unless they ask to be removed.

Definitely good advice in general, but in this case, my request to this
list did not ask about "publications" per se. I asked about re-enactment
groups that are likely to have newsletters (which most likely are the
larger groups, the ones that have multiple chapters or that cover more
than one local area). I'm not going to go to a lot of trouble to dig up
contact addresses for the dozens/hundreds of individual local groups. With
smaller, local groups, assuming you can even find a snail-mail address,
your mailing will probably reach a private home, and the contact person is
not necessarily personally interested in researching historic costume.
That person might glance at a flyer and pitch it without realizing it was
meant to be spread around the group.

Truth is, I'm sure most of the re-enactors we're hoping to reach will
actually get the news directly via announcements forwarded around e-mail
lists. That's quite a different channel (and actually a much easier and
cheaper one!) than snail-mail flyers. Still, I'm indeed going to include
any of groups for which I have solid contact info on the snail-mail list I
send to the publisher.

Of course we're putting far greater care into our list of *publications*,
meaning magazines, newsletters of academic organizations, and other
academic journals. For these, we certainly are compiling a conventional
mailing list. That's why, in another message, I asked about organizations
that I might have missed that should be included. (Fortunately I need only
provide the specialist organizations and publications related to our
topic, as the publisher has an extensive standard list of institutions and
libraries.)

> Review copies are much more expensive.  They should go only to
> publications whose circulation is large enough for a review to do some
> good...

Having been in magazine/journal publishing for upwards of 20 years now, I
also understand about the difference between announcements and review
copies. But thanks for pointing it out. My queries were in regards to our
announcement list -- as you said, flyers are cheap and should be sprinkled
around liberally to any remotely appropriate publication we can find.

> Pretty much any US publication and organization of any size, plus many
> smaller ones, and many UK organizations too, are on the Internet.  
> This helps a great deal in researching publications.

Having spent most of Labor Day weekend compiling the marketing information
our publisher has asked for, I can report that a large proportion of those
web pages neglect to give a mailing address for the organization and/or
newsletter. E-mail addresses, yes. I've been sending out my share of
inquiries...

--Robin


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] PS on underwear
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On Mon, 6 Sep 2004, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:

> Agreed.  I *hated* the belt and pad set up.  Fortunately, the pads you
> stick on the crotch of your underwear were invented shortly after I
> began menstruating.

Back in the belt-and-pad days, I learned early on how to approximate that
effect. Then (as now, still, in some places) if you got caught without
supplies while out of the house, you'd find a public ladies' room and pop
some money into a machine to get a box with a pad in it. If you were
already wearing a belt and pad, you could just swap out the pad on your
own belt, but if you were just starting your period, you probably wouldn't
have a belt with you. So, in the box with the pad, there were two safety
pins, so you could pin the ends of the pad to your underwear.

It didn't take me long to figure out that this was *much* more comfortable
and secure than the belt arrangement, and soon I wore my pads that way
routinely. Then the manufacturers must have figured out that this was the
way to go, and started putting adhesive on the backs of the pads.

Now, of course, we have ultra thin maxi supreme extra longs, with wings
even, and special curves and shapes. How did we ever manage without those
features?

I opened up a new brand of pad this month and was astounded to find that
the wings sealed not with adhesive strips, but with *velcro.*

--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] Simplicity patterns
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http://www.simplicity.com/index.cfm?page=comments.cfm

Perhaps if enough of us inquire as to the possibility of a return of certain
patterns they may re-issue them or make a revamp of it.
I have seen on this list and another costume list people wanting Simplicity
pattern #8725, the sideless surcote costume. And this is the second time I
have heard someone looking for #9633.
The above url is to Simplicity comments and feedback site. I have already
put in inquiries about the two aforementioned patterns. Now I just have to
wait and see what they have to say.

De

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>I asked about re-enactment
>groups that are likely to have newsletters (which most likely are the
>larger groups, the ones that have multiple chapters or that cover more
>than one local area). I'm not going to go to a lot of trouble to dig up
>contact addresses for the dozens/hundreds of individual local groups. With
>smaller, local groups, assuming you can even find a snail-mail address,
>your mailing will probably reach a private home, and the contact person is
>not necessarily personally interested in researching historic costume.
>That person might glance at a flyer and pitch it without realizing it was
>meant to be spread around the group.
>  
>
It's not necessarily a larger group that has a newsletter. It's just a 
group that has one or more people willing to take on the often 
substantial work of organizing, publishing, and distributing the 
newsletter.

You'll note that I suggested sending a press release to newsletters (and 
also magazines and journals), not a flyer.  A press release is written 
specifically for reprinting excerpts, or even the whole press release.  
It is written sothe publication can extract the information as easily as 
possible, without actually having to write anything. (Which 
reprinting/copying, BTW, is legal, because that is understood to be the 
purpose of the press release.)  It has a fairly standard format, which 
you can find described in any number of books on writing press releases 
and on marketing, probably on some websites too.  A press release does 
not look like an ad or a flyer. It will not be mistaken for any personal 
communication, even if sent to the home of a newsletter editor.

I know from experience it's a lot of work to collect the contact data.  
However, for a niche publication, like one on historic costume, there 
simply are no large-circulation periodicals. So what you have to do is 
research a whole bunch of small publications and hope they add up.

>Truth is, I'm sure most of the re-enactors we're hoping to reach will
>actually get the news directly via announcements forwarded around e-mail
>lists. That's quite a different channel (and actually a much easier and
>cheaper one!) than snail-mail flyers.
>
It's easier and cheaper, but not nearly as effective as sending out 100 
or so press releases  in addition to the email lists. The thing is, even 
a fairly large email list has, what, maybe 300 members?  And people very 
active on the web tend to be on more than one list, so you're reaching 
some of the same people multiple times rather than a new audience.  
Also, a great many people interested in historic costume who don't 
choose to participate in email lists or news groups.  I'd say most 
customers currently on our direct mail list are not in any email groups 
I know of.

>
>Of course we're putting far greater care into our list of *publications*,
>meaning magazines, newsletters of academic organizations, and other
>academic journals. For these, we certainly are compiling a conventional
>mailing list. n extensive standard list of institutions and
>libraries.)
>  
>
Well, I put great care into all aspects of my marketing lists, including 
visiting all websites of publications we send to before every mailing.   
But they're my books and I care about them.  Which is why I haven't 
yielded to the tempation to hire a college student or someone like that 
to do the grunt work of marketing.

>
>Having been in magazine/journal publishing for upwards of 20 years now, I
>also understand about the difference between announcements and review
>copies. But thanks for pointing it out.
>
I was merely pointing out the difference in expense, as overdistribution 
of review copies has been a significant financial drain for many small 
publishers I know. 


> My queries were in regards to our
>announcement list -- as you said, flyers are cheap and should be sprinkled
>around liberally to any remotely appropriate publication we can find.
>  
>
I was suggesting press releases .  . . Flyers really are better for 
advertising to individuals.  I don't think a publication would 
necessarily know what to do with one, or want to spend any trouble on 
rewriting the info.


>Having spent most of Labor Day weekend compiling the marketing information
>our publisher has asked for, I can report that a large proportion of those
>web pages neglect to give a mailing address for the organization and/or
>newsletter. E-mail addresses, yes. I've been sending out my share of
>inquiries...
>
>
>  
>
A lot of websites bury contact data in weird places and you have to look 
around for it.  But yes, a few don't give any and I have to ask.  I 
usually spend about two or three months around the publication of each 
book doing nothing but marketing research and marketing.  But again, 
they are my own books so I'm motivated.  I would never do some of the 
things I do for anyone else's project.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
Two new books of 1870s and 1880s patterns!
http://www.lavoltapress.com


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] How to draft a neckline
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> It looks easy enough but I really don't know how to draft a neckline. 
> 
> Any suggestion or advice? 

I've tried various methods but found the best one is to make the
smallest hole (or T-shaped slit) that the wearer can get their head
through, make up the entire garment except the neckline and put it on,
then maker where the neckline needs to be, add seam/hem allowance on the
inside of that lineand cut along that line.

If the neckline needs to mirror that of a gown worn over the smock, put
the gown on over it before marking the neckline, mark the smock neckline
the required amount inside the gown neckline then add the seam/hem
allowance on the inside of that and cut.

Good luck

Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] PS on underwear
From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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> From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
> On Mon, 6 Sep 2004, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
> 
>> Agreed.  I *hated* the belt and pad set up.  Fortunately, the pads you
>> stick on the crotch of your underwear were invented shortly after I
>> began menstruating.

> So, in the box with the pad, there were two safety
> pins, so you could pin the ends of the pad to your underwear.
> 
> I opened up a new brand of pad this month and was astounded to find that
> the wings sealed not with adhesive strips, but with *velcro.*
> 
> --Robin

Well, so long as we're HAVING this conversation -- yes, the safety pins were
MUCH better -- but as the belts we remember were so ill-designed (I
particularly hated the sort of girdle-clips to hold the pads, which were
just as likely to pinch skin, and of course the tendency of the whole pad to
migrate to a useless location or even flip over) can our foremothers have
put up with such a bad arrangement? Would it have taken much to improve it?
I always suspected the belt would be better if it weren't elastic -- though
that would interfere with mass production of the things. Maybe it's where
worn out narrow wares went to die...?

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval re-enactment organizations
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On Mon, 6 Sep 2004, Lavolta Press wrote:

> You'll note that I suggested sending a press release to newsletters
> (and also magazines and journals), not a flyer.  A press release is
> written specifically for reprinting excerpts, or even the whole press
> release.

Sorry, Fran, I was using the word interchangeably, for the purposes of my
request here, where most people won't know or care about the difference.
I've been writing press releases for 20 years (and, more often, receiving
and using them, as a reporter and editor on newspapers and magazines).

I appreciate your advice, but I should point out that I'm not *sending*
anything myself, or even making decisions on what goes where ... the
publisher is, and as they're one of the major publishers in this field and
I've seen how they operate, I think I can I trust them to have their
procedures down pat. I'm only supplying the addresses for specialist
organizations that would not otherwise be on their list, and making
recommendations as to who should get what sort of contact. Having been
through this process from the other side (and the recipient side) more
times than I can count, it's a pleasure to only have to be doing this
much.

> I know from experience it's a lot of work to collect the contact data.  
> However, for a niche publication, like one on historic costume, there
> simply are no large-circulation periodicals. So what you have to do is
> research a whole bunch of small publications and hope they add up.

And just in case you weren't certain, (1) I wasn't complaining (just
asking for input, from this group among others), and (2) I wasn't looking
for instructions on self-marketing a book. My post here was exactly the
sort of "research" you are suggesting I do, a role I am familiar with from
many years' worth of business. Fortunately, for this project, all I
actually had to do was put the book together. As I said, it's nice to have
a professional marketing department doing the rest, and also nice that a
regular part of *their* research process is to ask their authors for
substantial input. I suspect I'm giving them more input than most of their
authors would, but that's only because I'm used to being in their chair,
not the author's chair.

--Robin



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In a message dated 9/7/04 6:48:51 AM Central Daylight Time, 
lauren.walker@comcast.net writes:
(I
particularly hated the sort of girdle-clips to hold the pads, which were
just as likely to pinch skin, and of course the tendency of the whole pad to
migrate to a useless location or even flip over) can our foremothers have
put up with such a bad arrangement? 


Some of us now listen to stories about belts and safety pins and think, "omg, 
how on earth did they stand that?"   But I imagine that the generation that 
was stuck with these contraptions, in their turn also listened to seeming 
horror-stories from the older females of their acquaintence.  Compared to the idea 
of using cloth rags that must be toted everywhere (or required one to retire 
to the house for several days), probably had a disastrous tendency to actually 
slip completely OUT, and must be laundered for reuse, I would imagine that 
disposable napkins - however inconveniently attached - seemed like God's gift to 
women.

**Tiff**
eBay Selling ID: Reflections*of*Worth
Historical Reproductions and Costumes
"Education is a progressive discovery of our own ignorance." -Will Durant
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Who asked about diamond-weave wool?
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Teddy wrote:
> A while back someone was asking about diamond-weave wool and I've
> forgotten who it was.
> 
> Whoever you are, if you could email me I can give you details of the one
> I mentioned having seen on a traders stall at an event - I tracked it
> down over the weekend and got a sample of it for you.


	ooo! I wasn't the one who brought it up onlist so I don't qualify as 
the one you got the sample for (darnit!), but I'm definately  interested 
in info. Are they affordable (without mortgaging the house), and would 
they ship to the US????? wow.

	-Judy Mitchell
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume/textile organizations: Did I miss any?
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One magazine that has not been mentioned is "Pieceworks".  They usually are
up on what is new in publications related to needle work crafts.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, September 06, 2004 12:52 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume/textile organizations: Did I miss any?


>
> On Mon, 6 Sep 2004, Home Ec wrote:
>
> > > One particular request: Is there an organization or study group that
> > > serves students/scholars working in historical embroidery?
>
> > One of my favorites is Historical needlework.  the contact is:
> > Send questions to h-needlework-admin@ansteorra.org.
>
> To reiterate what I mentioned in my post: I'm looking for academic
> organizations for a (snail-mail) mailing list for the publisher to send
> announcements to. I'll get the e-mail groups/lists via online channels.
>
> --Robin
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20040905164911.71A04E5BC7@ws7-2.us4.outblaze.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 19th century underwear
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2004 10:29:07 -0400
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Status: RO

Re the Bible injunction, no one has mentioned the whole raillery about women
wearing 'bifurcated garments' at all!  There are many references in 19th C
magazines that discuss the propriety of wearing pants/trowsers/drawers if
one is a woman. I thing it is Cunnington that mentions that no lady would
demean herself by so doing.  This attitude did not change until after the
1860s, but the issue of bifurcated garments continues to get bad press.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "kathleen lewis" <katie_lewis@lycos.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2004 12:49 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 19th century underwear


>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Katie Pleasance <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
> Date: Sat, 04 Sep 2004 09:37:51 -0700
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] 19th century underwear
>
> > And don't forget about periods. I don't imagine women from earlier ages
> > would enjoying blood dripping down their legs every month any more than
> > modern women would. They must have worn *something* to collect the
monthly
> > mess!
>
> This is *purely* oral history, so it may not be quite correct, especially
since the initial source was male (my Great-Grandfather),although living in
a one room cabin would make it difficult to remain totally ignorant of these
things.  According to my Grandma, he said that when he was a boy (1890's
*very* rural Kentucky) that women didn't wear drawers because the Bible
forbade women wearing pants.  When they were mentruating, they used rags
held in place by a belt-like affair.  So I wouldn't dismiss out of hand the
possibility that women in at least some times and places used specially
built devices for their periods, and wore no underpants the rest of the
time.
>
> -Katie
> Xander: You up for a little reconnaissance?
> Buffy: You mean where we all sculpt and paint and stuff?
> Xander: No, that was the Renaissance.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -- 
> _______________________________________________
> Find what you are looking for with the Lycos Yellow Pages
>
http://r.lycos.com/r/yp_emailfooter/http://yellowpages.lycos.com/default.asp?SRC=lycos10
>
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 10:36:55 2004
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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 19th century underwear
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Status: RO

I think the Biblical injunction is against wearing the clothing of the
opposite sex in general rather than specifically mentioning trousers,
which I doubt were everyday wear among the ancient Israelites!

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> rmitchell@washjeff.edu 07/09/2004 15:29:07 >>>
Re the Bible injunction, no one has mentioned the whole raillery about
women
wearing 'bifurcated garments' at all!  

quoting Katie "Women didn't wear drawers because the Bible
forbade women wearing pants. "
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From: "Cindy Abel" <brujne@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Vanity Fair
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2004 09:58:24 -0500
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Status: RO

The Regency look was slim....compared to the look of the last previous
centuries, but slim and thin enough by present-day standards. There were a
few women who went to what was considered then extreme, copying the ideal
ancient Grecian woman look: chilton, sandals, and hairstyle with maybe what
we would term a flesh-colored bodystocking underneath(or not)and a very
expensive imported cashmere shawl for warmth but that look was worn by a
very few, mostly in France during the Directorie and Consulate(1795-1800).
In fact, the ideal was a well-rounded figure, neither too fat nor too
thin(the latter today's ideal.

By the Regency period(1811-1820)the narrow line was expanding to wider
skirts and sleeves, and especially in England, use of more vivid colors, and
additions to the basic dress shape both(pseudo)historic and new fashions in
accessories, given names that reflected military influences and England's
far-flung Empire. Corsets were back (in) as well as at least a chemise under
the corset(still called stays), at least one petticoat, stockings and
footwear. The very thin could strive for the ideal look with "improvers" for
bust, backside, and even abdominal area as the still above the natural waist
waistline's skirt was supposed to flow "naturally" not hang limply down.

I saw the movie Saturday. It was really good and the costumes wonderful.
There has been some critical carping over not being totally faithful to the
novel and the actor that plays George hairstyle, but there were some men's
hairstyles during the period 1795-1825 that were close to this and military
men in England did not have a required cut in the higher ranks.

It is over two hours long, but doesn't feel it and no one at the showing I
went to(early afternoon) left their seats, although there was a mad dash by
some for the Ladies' restroom at its conclusion as most of us had large and
jumbo drinks due to the heat and humidity outside.  Really torture to go
back out into the heat and an informal discussion of the costumes--the
younger girls especially were suprised at the fact you didn't have to be
stick thin to look good in Regency fashion. Two high-school age girls were
wondering if they could get/make prom dresses like some of Becky's costumes.

Cindy Abel



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References: <005301c49227$9af5db00$6a8e059a@bc.hsia.telus.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Montreal
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Status: RO

You want to go on St-Hubert street, just north of Jean-Talon. If you want
buttons and similar findings, there is also a place called Rix Rax. I could
find the address for you if you're interested. There are no real good fabric
shops that I know of, I usually shop online, but if you hear of a good one
let me know!

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Edith Reardon" <edieann@telus.net>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Friday, September 03, 2004 10:33 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Montreal


Okay, I have finally booked our airfare and need a list of fabric shops to
shop at in Montreal.  Where, hours?? any suggestions would be greatly
appreciated.  Thanks

Brin Kendall
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 19th century underwear
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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It was not only frowned upon, it was against the law for women to wear
pants in many American cities during the 1860s.  I've run across newspaper
articles about quite a few women getting hauled into court and fined the
rough equivalent of a week's pay ($6-$10 in Memphis) for daring to wear
pants, unless they had military orders proving that they were vivandieres.
Full "bloomer" reform dress, with the short skirt, just seemed to attract
ridicule, however.   I've mainly seen that attire associated with the
North.

Vicki Betts
vbetts@gower.net

Re the Bible injunction, no one has mentioned the whole raillery about
women
wearing 'bifurcated garments' at all!  There are many references in 19th C
magazines that discuss the propriety of wearing pants/trowsers/drawers if
one is a woman. I thing it is Cunnington that mentions that no lady would
demean herself by so doing.  This attitude did not change until after the
1860s, but the issue of bifurcated garments continues to get bad press.

Kathleen


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In a message dated 9/7/2004 11:02:33 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
brujne@creighton.edu writes:
Two high-school age girls were
wondering if they could get/make prom dresses like some of Becky's costumes.
Now there's a thought! But goodness knows if they will still feel that way 
next spring (maybe for Fall homecoming, though, if anyone still does formal?)

While it is certainly not authentic enough for historic interpreters, the 
Butterick pattern (6630) would be just fine for prom dresses.

Ann Wass
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Robin,

Deleted your last message but anyway:

You asked for marketing help.  I've worked in book and magazine 
publishing my entire adult life and have run my own business for 11 
years publishing and selling books to the costuming community, so 
thought you might appreciate mine.  Broadcasts for help on the net don't 
always retrieve it in the exact form requested!  If mine is of no use to 
you, ignore it.

As for the marketing research, this is something I've been thinking 
about lately.  It is entry-level assistant work, not the interesting 
part of a marketing campaign.  I've done a tremendous amount of it for 
each book.  I never had to do it when working for other book 
publishers.  The marketing department did it.  Nor did I do things like 
page layout--the production department did all that.  In fact for years 
I never had to do things like proofreading or copyediting.  That was 
what the junior editors and editorial assistants who worked on my 
projects were for.  

Now I get to do it all.  I wouldn't give up the business because not 
only can I publish books exactly the way I want to, and make all the 
decisions--I also make more money.  Two publishers were interested in my 
first book; one offered a contract very persistently. I turned them down 
when I crunched the numbers and realized I could make more money as a 
publisher than as an author on a royalty basis.  And that since I'd 
worked my entire career in publishing, I already had the expertise to 
do, learn, or hire out any additional tasks.  The first book sold well 
from the beginning.  The business has been profitable for years, so I've 
never seen any need to find other publishers for the other five books I 
published. Nor any books I plan in future.   Considering that the 
historic costume/clothing books market is a small, well-defined niche, 
it's debatable as to whether a large publisher would sell significantly 
more books.

Some new tasks I took on have turned out to be fun. Particularly book 
and cover design, which I do together with my husband; it's great 
working closely together.  I've gotten very good at certain types of 
graphics (image) editing. Also page layout is fun, partly because I 
custom design each page (within  the design framework we previously set 
up) and partly because after months of graphics editing, I finally see 
the whole book come together. 

It's just that I'm reaching a bottleneck where, for the business to 
grow, sooner or later I'll have to hire an editorial/marketing 
assistant.  Considering I want to keep on making the decisions, and I'm 
a perfectionist about quality, I'd wonder if anyone else would really 
want to take on the grunt work.  I suppose I was an editorial assistant 
in my first job, and that was fun because I was a beginner and 
learning.  I'm putting off the evil day as long as possible, though.  
Maybe I could hire freelance assistants for a few weeks just for 
marketing pushes.  I've hired freelance translators and illustrators, 
and that worked well.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
Two new books on 1870s and 1880s clothes!
http://www.lavoltapress.com





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On Tue, 7 Sep 2004, Lavolta Press wrote:

> You asked for marketing help. I've worked in book and magazine
> publishing my entire adult life and have run my own business for 11
> years publishing and selling books to the costuming community, so
> thought you might appreciate mine.  Broadcasts for help on the net
> don't always retrieve it in the exact form requested!  If mine is of
> no use to you, ignore it.

Well, actually, I asked for names of two particular kinds of organizations
that I thought people on this list might be likely to know. I also
explained why I was asking (because I knew people would wonder, and some
would ask!). But apparently that came across to you as a broader request
than I intended. I do apologize if I wasn't clear.

All your advice would have been on-target if I were marketing my own book
(and were new to the task), and would have been very much appreciated in
that instance. I just felt bad that you were spending so much time
helpfully outlining details of marketing basics that I didn't need for
this particular effort (and, in my case, already know from experience,
though you wouldn't have known that till I told you). I don't want to seem
ungrateful; I really was trying to forestall you from extra effort, which
I know was meant well and was very generous of you.

Moving on to your other discussion, about the quandary of doing-it-all vs.
hiring out (with possible effects on control and quality): I sympathize!
I'm used to the being on the editor/publisher side, so this experience on
the "author" side has been odd for me; I keep wanting to do more than my
publisher expects. On the one hand they're delighted that I'm sending
clean copy and other useful material; on the other hand, I'm taking on
more of a burden and need to keep reminding myself, "No, that bit is their
job!"

If you do decide to expand, I know that there are plenty of editors and
other publishing professionals out there, working freelance, who would be
interested in taking some of that burden from you if you decide to either
hire or contract out, even at a fairly low rate. Contracting specific
time-consuming tasks might be the way to go; that would free you up for
more of the variable tasks that you want to keep your own hand on. It
would also allow you to find the right person for each of several varied
tasks (e.g. editing, indexing, marketing, whatever you decide to segment
out) rather than the (impossible?) task of finding one assistant who would
have to either know or learn all of these things. Alas, cloning oneself
would probably be too expensive, if it weren't illegal ;-)

If you come to a point of wanting to contract out work, feel free to
contact me directly; I participate in a number of networks of freelancers
in various publishing skills, and I can point you to some good places to
make a posting (and in some cases, can make personal recommendations).

Hmm, I think this has gotten way far away from costuming. Sorry...

--Robin



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume/textile organizations: Did I miss any?
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Hello,
You might consider the Textile Conservation Centre in Winchester, UK.  
I attended their conference this summer and think they might be 
interested in the topic of your journal.

Althea


On Sunday, September 5, 2004, at 09:22 PM, Robin Netherton wrote:

>
> Hi, folks. Many of you may recall that I'm editing a new academic 
> journal,
> Medieval Clothing & Textiles. The first volume is in production now, 
> and
> I'm responding to some questions from the publisher's marketing
> department.
>
> One of the things the publisher asked for is a list of the various
> organizations that should receive announcements for publication in 
> their
> newsletters (and, in some cases, review copies for their journals). 
> I've
> put together a sizable list -- there are a surprising lot of dress and
> textile organizations out there! -- but of course there's a good chance
> I've missed someone. So, I'd like to run it past you folks to see if 
> you
> can spot the gaps.
>
> Please note that I am looking for academic or scholarly organizations 
> that
> have a significant interest in costume and textile topics and/or 
> medieval
> material culture. I am not looking for individual academic programs,
> universities, or experts -- I'm looking for the professional 
> organizations
> those people would belong to. I'm particularly interested in European
> organizations and journals, as I know only the UK-based ones.
>
> Also, please note that this list does *not* include re-enactment
> organizations; see my next message for that.
>
> Here's what I've got:
>
> UK/Europe:
> Costume Society of Great Britain (journal: Costume)
> Medieval Dress and Textiles Society (MEDATS)
> North European Symposium for Archaeological Textiles (NESAT)
> Pasold Research Fund (journal: Textile History)
> Textile Society (journal: Text)
> Archaeological Textiles Newsletter
> Dyes in History and Archaeology
> Monumental Brass Society
>
> US/Canada:
> DISTAFF
> Costume Society of America
> Costume Society of Ontario
> Textile Society of America
> Group for Costume and Textile Staff in Museums
> AVISTA
> International Costume Guild
> Medieval Textile Study Group of the Complex Weavers' Guild
> U.S. Institute of Theater Technology
>
> So, what did I miss?
>
> One particular request: Is there an organization or study group that
> serves students/scholars working in historical embroidery? I think I've
> got the right one for medieval weaving techniques, but I don't know if
> there are equivalents in other fiber arts. We have a strong article on
> early medieval embroidery in this volume, so I really want to contact
> people in that field.
>
> Next question: Can anyone name major conferences that would reach our
> target audience, *other than* Kalamazoo, Leeds, MLA, and the meetings 
> of
> the groups named above? Would Convergence be a good place to make this
> journal available? (If so, where can I get information on it?) Any 
> others?
>
> Thanks all!
>
> --Robin
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com
*** http://www.alfalfapress.com

Public Relations Manager
Sauron/Voldemort 2004

Bush/Cheney - Bringing Bigotry back to the Constitution.

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume/textile organizations: Did I miss any?
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Whoops, that was meant to go to Althea, not as an out-of-context one-liner
to the list.

--Robin, wasting more bandwidth with this post


On Tue, 7 Sep 2004, Robin Netherton wrote:

> Oooh, thanks.

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>
>All your advice would have been on-target if I were marketing my own book
>(and were new to the task)
>
Or any book, particularly as book publishers are shuffling off 
increasing amounts of marketing work onto authors.  And for that matter, 
increasing amounts of editorial and production work.  For no extra 
royalties.  Many authors are deciding if the only thing the publisher is 
doing is paying the printer, they might as well hire the printer 
themselves and get all the revenues.

>
>Moving on to your other discussion, about the quandary of doing-it-all vs.
>hiring out (with possible effects on control and quality): I sympathize!
>I'm used to the being on the editor/publisher side, so this experience on
>the "author" side has been odd for me; I keep wanting to do more than my
>publisher expects. 
>

It's hard to believe that any author _can_ do more than a publisher 
expects.

>
>If you do decide to expand, I know that there are plenty of editors and
>other publishing professionals out there, working freelance, who would be
>interested in taking some of that burden from you if you decide to either
>hire or contract out, even at a fairly low rate.
>
I know.  We're still getting almost daily responses to a net ad we 
posted for a translator for the German part of _Fashions of the Gilded 
Age_.  At least two years ago.  Probably people have been circulating it 
on their own and don't know how old it is.  But still.


> Contracting specific
>time-consuming tasks might be the way to go; that would free you up for
>more of the variable tasks that you want to keep your own hand on.
>
Right at the top of my list is (a) searching websites for marketing data 
and (b) entering marketing data for directories.

> It
>would also allow you to find the right person for each of several varied
>tasks (e.g. editing, indexing, marketing, whatever you decide to segment
>out) 
>
I wouldn't want to farm out editorial work, except maybe some proofing.  
But it wouldn't be hard to find someone who would do a combination of 
entry-level marketing assistant work and editorial assistant work.  At 
least when I was starting out, there were plenty of people willing to do 
almost anything to get some publishing experience on the resume.

>rather than the (impossible?) task of finding one assistant who would
>have to either know or learn all of these things.
>
It's all basic stuff.  But I'd have to set up an office for the person, 
get them hardware and software and so on, and conform carefully to 
employment regulations.  Either than or hire a freelancer long 
distance.  And I'd have to let go of some responsibility, which I'm not 
used to any more.

>
>If you come to a point of wanting to contract out work, feel free to
>contact me directly; I participate in a number of networks of freelancers
>in various publishing skills, and I can point you to some good places to
>make a posting (and in some cases, can make personal recommendations).
>
>
>  
>
I'm very well plugged into the professional publishing community, 
including knowing where to find various freelancers. It's a question of 
whether I'm ready to hire someone.  Or whether I have to do it at some 
point whether I feel ready or not.  I'll probably wind up looking for 
someone who is dedicated to become a publishing professional and wants 
some training.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume/textile organizations: Did I miss any?
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Oooh, thanks.


==========================================================
Robin Netherton // Editor at Large
robin@nightowl.net
voice: (314) 439-1222 // fax: (314) 439-1333
Life is just a bowl of queries.

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Hi, just curious about what your projekts will be for the next months.
Autumn and winter is here, so i have got my plans ready now.
Friday next week, i expect to be finished with the danish courtdress, and i
shall travel to the manorhouse to deliver and set up the dress in front of
the portrait. Promise to post pictures when i have come that far.
Then today i ordered natural coloured silk chenille from Aurora because i am
going to dye some chenille threads for this winter projekt, an embroidered
sackdress in pale yellow silk taffeta. After original dress in the Kyoto
book. This is for Alexia..................
I also expect to have yeat a new embroidered stomacher finished after the
old pattern books wich i find unlimited inspirations from.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
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Bjarne, I can't wait to see the photos of your work in situ.

I for one am working on two german women's outfits from 1545-60. Mine is
almost complete and my daughter's outfit is cut out. The colors are so close
that I want to finish one before I start the other so I don't mix parts. To
complete the kit, I have three heavy woolen cassocks to make (the extra for
my husband), two hats and two gollars. These need to be finished by the
25th. And I want to thank everyone on this list for all your help, leads and
links to artwork of the time when I asked last month. It all was very
useful. 

Then I work on Victorian - a gentleman's frock coat and waistcoat, a girl
street urchin's outfit (and thanks for the hints on distressing) and a shop
woman's outfit to be completed by mid-November. I'd also like to get the
muslin for a bustle outfit together by Christmas. Then to finish up the
men's Germans in time for mid-January. If I get it all done it'll be a
miracle. The only fudge space is that bustle gown; everything else has to
get done.

LynnD


> From: Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2004 22:08:51 +0200
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] current and future work?
> 
> Hi, just curious about what your projekts will be for the next months.
> Autumn and winter is here, so i have got my plans ready now.
> Friday next week, i expect to be finished with the danish courtdress, and i
> shall travel to the manorhouse to deliver and set up the dress in front of
> the portrait. Promise to post pictures when i have come that far.
> Then today i ordered natural coloured silk chenille from Aurora because i am
> going to dye some chenille threads for this winter projekt, an embroidered
> sackdress in pale yellow silk taffeta. After original dress in the Kyoto
> book. This is for Alexia..................
> I also expect to have yeat a new embroidered stomacher finished after the
> old pattern books wich i find unlimited inspirations from.
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From: "Angharad ver' Reynulf" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Medieval re-enactment organizations
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Robin,

I don't have much to add to your organization list.

I'm just watching for the announcements and saving
pennies to hopefully afford my own copy!

Angharad / Wolfcat
who will be counting to see how many email
notifications I get via the lists *lol*


		
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Date: Tue, 07 Sep 2004 23:38:31 +0000
Subject: pads etc...Re: [h-cost] PS on underwear
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----- Original Message -----
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>

<snip>

> I opened up a new brand of pad this month and was astounded to find that
> the wings sealed not with adhesive strips, but with *velcro.*
> 
> --Robin

I tried an eco-friendly method for awhile with cotton fleece and flannel pads with velcro which were supposed to be soaked then washed for reuse - one of the biggest problems I had with the method (I evenutally gave up on it) was the velcro mangled your underwear very quickly.  So, I'm not sure that is a step in the right direction, unless they have a conspiracy with underwear manufacturers...

Cheers,
Danielle 
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Danielle Nunn-Weinberg" <dannw@lycos.com>
Date: Tue, 07 Sep 2004 23:38:31 +0000
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: pads etc...Re: [h-cost] PS on underwear

> > --Robin
> 
> I tried an eco-friendly method for awhile with cotton fleece and flannel pads with velcro which were supposed to be soaked then washed for 
reuse - one of the biggest problems I had with the method (I evenutally gave up on it) was the velcro mangled your underwear very quickly.  

If you have any intrest in trying a eco-friendly method, might I suggest using snaps.  Many Moons Alternatives has a pattern online that makes up 
very quickly.

-Katie

Xander: You up for a little reconnaissance? 
Buffy: You mean where we all sculpt and paint and stuff? 
Xander: No, that was the Renaissance. 






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Mmmmm...good question!
I have a huge "to-do" list for the coming cold & dark months.  While 
it's still relatively warm, I'm doing lots of fiber prep (madder dyeing 
done, cochineal & indigo & yellow something still to go--all wool yarns 
for 16th c. stockings), and there's a romney fleece I really should 
clean, so I can card it and spin it this winter.  I'm practicing my 
linen spinning--getting a good, fine thread, but having trouble with the 
distaff.
This winter, I'll be tackling the following:
knitted wool stockings in dark madder red, orange (madder exhaust bath), 
indigo blue, green (indigo over something yellow), and "venetian red" 
(cochineal).
lots of spinning for future weaving projects (mostly fine wool singles)
finishing my never-ending camicia (14 stripes done, 6 to go! woo-hoo!)
and a couple of outfits, even:
a hand-sewn 10th c. norse outfit (hence the use of the linen thread)
a 16th c. Flemish outfit
and if I've got free time, I'll work on:
the poor neglected pieces of my 17th c. colonial outfit
and a couple of pieced quilts

--sue

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Hi, just curious about what your projekts will be for the next months.
> Autumn and winter is here, so i have got my plans ready now.

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] PS on underwear
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2004 20:56:15 -0400
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On Tuesday 07 September 2004 1:26 am, Robin Netherton wrote:
> On Mon, 6 Sep 2004, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
> > Agreed.  I *hated* the belt and pad set up.  Fortunately, the pads you
> > stick on the crotch of your underwear were invented shortly after I
> > began menstruating.
>
> Back in the belt-and-pad days, I learned early on how to approximate that
> effect. Then (as now, still, in some places) if you got caught without
> supplies while out of the house, you'd find a public ladies' room and pop
> some money into a machine to get a box with a pad in it. If you were
> already wearing a belt and pad, you could just swap out the pad on your
> own belt, but if you were just starting your period, you probably wouldn't
> have a belt with you. So, in the box with the pad, there were two safety
> pins, so you could pin the ends of the pad to your underwear.

I tried that too.  I found it better than the belt and pad arrangement, though 
not much.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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From: "Genie" <kerowyn@mindspring.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <IDEHICPIJOEBPADHEOGPIELBCPAA.otsisto@socket.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Simplicity patterns
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2004 20:07:10 -0500
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The main reason they pulled the pattern was the picture, not the garment.
They used an actor for the two patterns and the guy's agent suddenly decided
he should be paid a fee for every copy of the picture.  Heard this one at CC
in Atlanta this spring from Andrea Schew no less.

Snow fallen on snow,
      and this evening, the full moon of November
Basho


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historic Costume" <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2004 12:58 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Simplicity patterns


> http://www.simplicity.com/index.cfm?page=comments.cfm
>
> Perhaps if enough of us inquire as to the possibility of a return of
certain
> patterns they may re-issue them or make a revamp of it.
> I have seen on this list and another costume list people wanting
Simplicity
> pattern #8725, the sideless surcote costume. And this is the second time I
> have heard someone looking for #9633.
> The above url is to Simplicity comments and feedback site. I have already
> put in inquiries about the two aforementioned patterns. Now I just have to
> wait and see what they have to say.
>
> De
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: pads etc...Re: [h-cost] PS on underwear
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On Tue, 7 Sep 2004, Danielle Nunn-Weinberg wrote:

> > I opened up a new brand of pad this month and was astounded to find that
> > the wings sealed not with adhesive strips, but with *velcro.*
> 
> I tried an eco-friendly method for awhile with cotton fleece and
> flannel pads with velcro which were supposed to be soaked then washed
> for reuse - one of the biggest problems I had with the method (I
> evenutally gave up on it) was the velcro mangled your underwear very
> quickly.  So, I'm not sure that is a step in the right direction,
> unless they have a conspiracy with underwear manufacturers...

My experience so far is that the velcro can easily stray to my inner
thighs -- ouch.

I suspect this will be another marketing idea-that-failed, as I do for one
not intend to buy these again.

--Robin


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I make the ones with snaps myself and used to even sell them off my
website. They are really neat.


On Tue, 07 Sep 2004 19:04:46 -0500, katie_lewis@lycos.com 
> If you have any intrest in trying a eco-friendly method, might I suggest using snaps.  Many Moons Alternatives has a pattern online that makes up
> very quickly.
> 
> -Katie
-- 
"Pardon me, Lady Tudor Glitz, but telling people things aren't period isn't
period." 
Italian Ladies 2005 Calendar
http://www.lulu.com/kristalori
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] simplicity Henry 8 pattern
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At 01:45 PM 9/6/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>forgive me if this is not the proper forum -- but I'd like to find the
>two Henry VIII patterns that Simplicity did 9650 and 9633 but they are
>long out of print.  Does anybody know where I might get these?
>
>Thanks,
>susan (mom to the child who wants one!)


Hi Susan,

I have the two Henry VIII patterns, but they are designed for really big 
men (my husband would wear a small!!, and his waist is 46"). So, when you 
say you want one for your child, is he a really large child?

I have also seen other Henry style patterns on eBay, like this one from 
Period Patterns/Medieval Miscellanea:
http://www.mediaevalmisc.com/pp51-53.htm
(bottom of the page).

Those PP/MM patterns are not for beginners, but the pattern and style is a 
lot more period appropriate than the Simplicity ones. While I have the 
Simplicity ones, I decided to make my own pattern for the doublet and base, 
as they just not very period at all. The great coat I think works better, 
but that will be made later, when it gets colder around here.

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Owner ~ DreamTime Studios
http://www.dreamtime-studios.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

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Can anyone give me information on signing up for the lecture Robin is giving
Oct. 16 in D.C.  Thanks ,  Anne



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On Wed, 8 Sep 2004, Anne Moeller wrote:

> Can anyone give me information on signing up for the lecture Robin is
> giving Oct. 16 in D.C.  Thanks , Anne

Go here:

http://www.oakenstaff.com/netherton/ 

--Robin



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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
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>Hi, just curious about what your projekts will be for the next months.

The other Northern California Ren. Fair starts in a couple of weeks, and I
need to refurbish my old dress, which is wearing out.  Then I need to do
something for Dickens' Fair, because I have a new character this year, and
Dickens starts at the end of November.  I need to make two dolls I will be
giving their new owners this Friday, and another one due next Tuesday, for
a show.  I have started none of these, having just returned from being a
staff member at a four day fantasy/science fiction convention.

       CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
         www.FunStuft.com

             //// \\\
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] PS on underwear
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2004 20:24:08 +1000
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> Well, so long as we're HAVING this conversation -- yes, the safety pins
were
> MUCH better -- but as the belts we remember were so ill-designed (I
> particularly hated the sort of girdle-clips to hold the pads, which were
> just as likely to pinch skin, and of course the tendency of the whole pad
to
> migrate to a useless location or even flip over) can our foremothers have
> put up with such a bad arrangement? Would it have taken much to improve
it?
> I always suspected the belt would be better if it weren't elastic --
though
> that would interfere with mass production of the things. Maybe it's where
> worn out narrow wares went to die...?

Well I don't have any personal experience (though the other day I found a
19yr old friend had used the belt and pad and washing it out after use
arrangement for a couple of years until she actually paid attention to what
was available in the shops and started buying her own) It seems to me that
simply having it attached at each corner would help (I get the impression
that they only one clip/pin at either end) I also think elasticity is pretty
important for ease of movement anything to hold something close to your
crotch both when you are sitting and standing really needs at least some
ability to stretch and spring back. Like I said I've got no experience with
this (and I don't want to experiment) perhaps it is something other people
are motivated to look into or even experiment with. If this was the way
people still dealt with menstruation we'd almost certainly have at least one
person pipe up about how they once experimented/used an emergency substitute
etc. *g*
Elizabeth
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
Elizabeth Beaumont              Elizabeth Walpole
Politarchopolis, Lochac     Canberra Australia
             ewalpole@austar.net.au

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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] simplicity Henry 8 pattern
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>
> At 01:45 PM 9/6/2004 -0400, you wrote:
> >forgive me if this is not the proper forum -- but I'd like to find the
> >two Henry VIII patterns that Simplicity did 9650 and 9633 but they are
> >long out of print.  Does anybody know where I might get these?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >susan (mom to the child who wants one!)
>
>
> Hi Susan,
>
> I have the two Henry VIII patterns, but they are designed for really big 
> men (my husband would wear a small!!, and his waist is 46"). So, when you 
> say you want one for your child, is he a really large child?

Naw.  He's probably on the small side.  He's 16 and wears a 15/32 dress
shirt.  I had been cruising ebay for quite some time hoping they would
turn up; but I was able to purchase the set yesterday.  Thanks all!

Susan
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From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Lecture (was: something else)
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2004 10:18:46 -0400
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Status: RO

Thank you.  BTW is there any chance that the lecture will be scheduled any
closer to the Norfolk/ Va. Beach area ?  Anne

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Robin Netherton
Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2004 12:40 AM
To: Historical Costume
Cc: ladyanne@quik.com
Subject: [h-cost] Lecture (was: something else)


On Wed, 8 Sep 2004, Anne Moeller wrote:

> Can anyone give me information on signing up for the lecture Robin is
> giving Oct. 16 in D.C.  Thanks , Anne

Go here:

http://www.oakenstaff.com/netherton/ 

--Robin



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From: "Cindy Abel" <brujne@creighton.edu>
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Subject: [h-cost] New McCall's patterns
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Status: RO



 McCall's has four new historic patterns out--I believe JoAnn's has a $1.99
per pattern sale this weekend. I hope I have the pattern #'s correct.

4795--Man's Rennaissance Doublet with several variations. Seems to have the
correct look--Probably good for getting the basic modern measurements and
then purists can go to Janet Arnold's or other scale patterns to perfect the
cut.

4796--Woman's Rennaissance bodices Less historically accurate than the Man's
Doublet. But again, probably good for basic fit and then going from there.

4797--Woman's Civil War era Jacket with insert fake vest, skirt, and shawl
cutting guide.  Cut looks like it was taken perhaps from a real jacket
possibly as all the seams look right. It also appears like actual wear, not
taken from a fashion plate. Doesn't have helpful notes and comments, like
Martha McCain's Simplicity patterns.

	Aside Query:  Anyone know if Martha McCain will have more patterns for
Simplicity out shortly for other historic eras?

4797--Woman's cloak--several views. Just your basic cloak with a hood like
the Folkwear Kinsale cloak pattern--very full-cut hood with a self-ruffled
front.


Cindy Abel



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I am currently altering a tudor gable hat. I have a coif to blackwork in the more freeform Elizabethan style. Over the winter I am adding wool pieces to my closet (Mostly late Tudor)so I am cutting patterns like a madwoman so I have less to do when the fabric arrives. My husband is clamoring for some early Baroque so that will be my late winter/early spring as he has a touch too many doublets :-) ~Angelique
 

		
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From: Irmgart Hasenschlaf <irmgart@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New McCall's patterns
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very cool!

I just looked on the mccalls site, though, and don't see any of those
patterns :(

-Irmgart


On Wed, 8 Sep 2004 09:21:35 -0500, Cindy Abel <brujne@creighton.edu> wrote:
> 
> 
> McCall's has four new historic patterns out--I believe JoAnn's has a $1.99
> per pattern sale this weekend. I hope I have the pattern #'s correct.
> 
> 4795--Man's Rennaissance Doublet with several variations. Seems to have the
> correct look--Probably good for getting the basic modern measurements and
> then purists can go to Janet Arnold's or other scale patterns to perfect the
> cut.
> 
> 4796--Woman's Rennaissance bodices Less historically accurate than the Man's
> Doublet. But again, probably good for basic fit and then going from there.
> 
> 4797--Woman's Civil War era Jacket with insert fake vest, skirt, and shawl
> cutting guide.  Cut looks like it was taken perhaps from a real jacket
> possibly as all the seams look right. It also appears like actual wear, not
> taken from a fashion plate. Doesn't have helpful notes and comments, like
> Martha McCain's Simplicity patterns.
> 
>        Aside Query:  Anyone know if Martha McCain will have more patterns for
> Simplicity out shortly for other historic eras?
> 
> 4797--Woman's cloak--several views. Just your basic cloak with a hood like
> the Folkwear Kinsale cloak pattern--very full-cut hood with a self-ruffled
> front.
> 
> Cindy Abel
> 
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> 



-- 
Irmgart Hasenschlaf
Canton of Buckston-on-Eno, Barony of Windmasters' Hill, Kingdom of Atlantia!
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In a message dated 9/8/04 9:23:48 AM Central Daylight Time, 
brujne@creighton.edu writes:
McCall's has four new historic patterns out--I believe JoAnn's has a $1.99
per pattern sale this weekend. I hope I have the pattern #'s correct.

For the person who had just written and said they could not locate the new 
patterns on McCalls' website - go to the "what's new" listings, the very last 
page.  They're all there.

**Tiff**
eBay Selling ID: Reflections*of*Worth
Historical Reproductions and Costumes
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In a message dated 9/8/04 9:23:48 AM Central Daylight Time, 
brujne@creighton.edu writes:
4797--Woman's Civil War era Jacket with insert fake vest, skirt, and shawl
cutting guide.  Cut looks like it was taken perhaps from a real jacket
possibly as all the seams look right. It also appears like actual wear, not
taken from a fashion plate. Doesn't have helpful notes and comments, like
Martha McCain's Simplicity patterns.

The problem that I always have with the commercial CW era patterns is that 
they never get the dropped shoulders right.  Universally (as universally as 
fashion ever gets, anyways) early 60's styles had the shoulders that hit past the 
ball of the shoulder, almost upper arm.  Yet these patterns are determined to 
keep them up at the upper shoulder.  Also, I've never seen a period garment 
(from the actual CW era) with that type of skirting/attached peplum.  Waists 
generally ended at the waist.

**Tiff**
eBay Selling ID: Reflections*of*Worth
Historical Reproductions and Costumes
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> very cool!
>
> I just looked on the mccalls site, though, and don't see any of those
> patterns :(

As an aside -- I saw these patterns in the boot at Hancocks.  Later that
same day (and a weekend later), JoAnne's did not yet have the book that
had these patterns in it.  YMMV.

Jerusha

> On Wed, 8 Sep 2004 09:21:35 -0500, Cindy Abel <brujne@creighton.edu> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > McCall's has four new historic patterns out--I believe JoAnn's has a $1.99
> > per pattern sale this weekend. I hope I have the pattern #'s correct.

According to my flier, the McCalls/Butterick sale is 16-18 September.  Hancocks
is having them the same weekend for $1.99

> > 
> > 4795--Man's Rennaissance Doublet with several variations. 
> > 4796--Woman's Rennaissance bodices 
> > 4797--Woman's Civil War era Jacket 
> > 4797--Woman's cloak--several views. 
>
Susan/ Jerusha

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On Wed, 8 Sep 2004, Anne Moeller wrote:

> Thank you.  BTW is there any chance that the lecture will be scheduled
> any closer to the Norfolk/ Va. Beach area ?  Anne

That's the only appearance I'll be doing on that trip, and I don't have
any other lectures on the calendar right now. I suspect that the DC
appearance will be drawing from a sizable region, so I don't know whether
there would be enough critical mass of attendees to make another visit to
that general area feasible, at least in the near future.

In general, I speak where I'm invited to speak; I don't set up my own
appearances. If someone wants to organize a visit by me to speak in their
area or at their event/institution, they're welcome to contact me to
propose arrangements.

--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] Heel question (crossposted)
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Over the weekend I was teaching a class on shoes and someone mentioned that 
they'd seen a note to a list (either this one, or Authentic SCA, or 
something very similar - I neglected to write it down) in which the writer 
said that they had seen evidence for 15th century heels.  I've been looking 
for this message, but am not finding it.  If anyone has any clue what I'm 
talking about, please let me know :)

Marc/Diarmaid

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Get ready for school! Find articles, homework help and more in the Back to 
School Guide! http://special.msn.com/network/04backtoschool.armx

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From: <cschmitt@genteelarts.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New McCall's patterns
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On Wed Sep  8  9:49 , Theflamingneedle@aol.com sent:

>The problem that I always have with the commercial CW era patterns is that they never get the dropped shoulders 
>right.  Universally (as universally as fashion ever gets, anyways) early 60's styles had the shoulders that hit past 
>the ball of the shoulder, almost upper arm.  Yet these patterns are determined to keep them up at the upper shoulder.  

I'm very hesitant to use "absolutes" when referring to period fashions, but I think the dropped armscye (shoulder) is 
an absolute must for early 1860s styles.  This pattern (correct #4697) doesn't have it.  

>Also, I've never seen a period garment (from the actual CW era) with that type of skirting/attached peplum.  Waists 
>generally ended at the waist.

I've seen several examples of mid-19th century garments with the faux-vest effect (photographs, fashion plates and 
original garments). Some are achieved with the use of trims, others have a vest front attached to the side seams.  But 
these have all been dresses or jackets, not a long coat like this one.  And generally outergarments (paletots, 
pardeusseseus, etc.)from this period do not have a seam at the waistline. 

I also have an issue with the arrangement of the pleats and the location of the closure on the skirt.  And the fabric 
requirements, especially for the skirt, seem excessive.  This pattern may meet your needs for Dickens' Fair and similar 
events, but I don't recommend it for accurate historic clothing. 

Ms. McCain is a member of this list. Perhaps she can give us an update on any works in progress. 

Carolann Schmitt
cschmitt@genteelarts.com
www.genteelarts.com
Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 3-6, 2005



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New McCall's patterns
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Every time I try to go to the McCall's site I just get "Web Site Not 
Responding"

Screw it. I'll just draft my own patterns.... :-P
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From: "Cindy Abel" <brujne@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] New McCall's patterns
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2004 11:39:04 -0500
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Don't depend on the websites to see the latest patterns. I happened on the
new McCall's pattern book Sunday at JoAnn's while heading for the 99 cent
sale Simplicity patterns.

Cindy Abel

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Irmgart Hasenschlaf
Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2004 9:35 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New McCall's patterns


very cool!

I just looked on the mccalls site, though, and don't see any of those
patterns :(

-Irmgart


On Wed, 8 Sep 2004 09:21:35 -0500, Cindy Abel <brujne@creighton.edu> wrote:
>
>
> McCall's has four new historic patterns out--I believe JoAnn's has a $1.99
> per pattern sale this weekend. I hope I have the pattern #'s correct.
>
> 4795--Man's Rennaissance Doublet with several variations. Seems to have
the
> correct look--Probably good for getting the basic modern measurements and
> then purists can go to Janet Arnold's or other scale patterns to perfect
the
> cut.
>
> 4796--Woman's Rennaissance bodices Less historically accurate than the
Man's
> Doublet. But again, probably good for basic fit and then going from there.
>
> 4797--Woman's Civil War era Jacket with insert fake vest, skirt, and shawl
> cutting guide.  Cut looks like it was taken perhaps from a real jacket
> possibly as all the seams look right. It also appears like actual wear,
not
> taken from a fashion plate. Doesn't have helpful notes and comments, like
> Martha McCain's Simplicity patterns.
>
>        Aside Query:  Anyone know if Martha McCain will have more patterns
for
> Simplicity out shortly for other historic eras?
>
> 4797--Woman's cloak--several views. Just your basic cloak with a hood like
> the Folkwear Kinsale cloak pattern--very full-cut hood with a self-ruffled
> front.
>
> Cindy Abel
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



--
Irmgart Hasenschlaf
Canton of Buckston-on-Eno, Barony of Windmasters' Hill, Kingdom of Atlantia!
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I think I have my trip to Montreal planned.  We will be there to view my husband's grandfathers photo exhibit from the turn of the century.  If you want to see what a Romanian gypsy wore at the turn of the century there is a picture or there are pictures showing the women's favorite blouse.  They tried to show off their best clothing and there are some children in the photo's.  The main bulk of the photo's are still chinese and indian mine workers lots of levy pants.  This exhibit has been touring Canada now for 3 yrs. and has some plans for touring the world.  My scanners not working right now or I would offer to scan in some of the pictures for people interested.


Brin Kendall
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Cindy Abel wrote:
> 	Aside Query:  Anyone know if Martha McCain will have more patterns for
> Simplicity out shortly for other historic eras?

	From what I've been told by one of the other designers, don't expect 
anything for about a year. She's switching to American Rev War and is 
taking time to research.

	-Judy Mitchell
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New McCall's patterns
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2004 17:56:54 -0600
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I wonder how one goes about getting a job as a historical patternmaker 
for one of the big pattern companies.  Sounds like a good gig.

Sylrog

On Sep 8, 2004, at 4:33 PM, Judy Mitchell wrote:

> Cindy Abel wrote:
>> 	Aside Query:  Anyone know if Martha McCain will have more patterns 
>> for
>> Simplicity out shortly for other historic eras?
>
> 	From what I've been told by one of the other designers, don't expect 
> anything for about a year. She's switching to American Rev War and is 
> taking time to research.
>
> 	-Judy Mitchell
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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In a message dated 9/8/2004 7:54:01 PM Eastern Standard Time, sylvia@ntw.net 
writes:

> I wonder how one goes about getting a job as a historical patternmaker 
> for one of the big pattern companies.  Sounds like a good gig.
> 

Like any gig, on top of being good at what you do and caring about what you 
do [which doesn't always matter] it's being in the right place at the right 
time.
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From: "Glenda Robinson" <glendar@compassnet.com.au>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
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Over the coming summer (it gets VERY hot here in summer, and not that cold
in winter, so we have the same reenactment time of year as the US and
Europeans) I have to get some costumes ready for a 17th century masque next
Easter.

Should be a heap of fun! I'm going as a Naiad (water spirit), after the
drawings by Inigo Jones (thanks, Drea for putting these up!). My husband is
finally making the plague doctor outfit he's always wanted (not quite to the
masque ideal, but the right period! After all, he doesn't want to get the
plague... Andrew is wearing Wayne's old early 16th century Reichslaffer
outfit with a turban - not far from what was worn in the early 17th century
for masques, and Owen is going as an imp (we're making a mask from a
sculpture in a cathedral. A fair bit of work, but it should be a lot of fun.
I'm not telling anyone over here what we're making, so they'll get a
surprise on the night!

We went to an Op-shop a couple of days ago and found a perfect hat for Wayne
and some lovely sheer silk for me. These were going to be the hardest pieces
to get for both our costumes, so we're really happy!

And I've got a couple of boring things to do too - a new mid 17th century
soldier's coat for Andrew, who has grown more than expected in the chest.
I've also got to do my new bodice and skirt for that time, and a natty new
suit for Wayne. The fabric's been sitting in the cupboard for way too long
for both of these! Procrastination, two kids and a job get the better of me
WAY too often.

Glenda.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
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On Tuesday 07 September 2004 4:08 pm, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> Hi, just curious about what your projekts will be for the next months.

I am working on making my own adaptation of the Historiska Museet's recreation 
of a highborn Viking woman's clothing, as shown on this site:

http://www.historiska.se/histvarld/drakter/vkvinna/vkvinfr.htm  (in Swedish)

http://www.historiska.se/histvarld/eng/drakter/vkvinna/vkvinfr.htm (English 
translation)

The site provides a downloadable PDF version of the patterns used in this 
outfit, but they strike me as having too many odd-shaped pieces to be period, 
so I am trying to work out my own adaptation.  Meanwhile, I'm acquiring 
substitutes for brocaded tablet weaving (if I wait until I get around to 
learning how to do brocaded tablet weaving, the outfit will never get made!) 
and fabrics.

I have suitable beads to hang between the brooches, and I have a pair of 
tortoise brooches, but they're of a Norse design.  Since this costume is 
based largely on southern Swedish finds, I want to wear it with brooches in a 
Swedish style.  So once I've gotten far enough to need them, I plan to buy a 
pair of bead-headed brooches, like these which are based on a find from 
Gotland (scroll down to item no. VB-23):

http://www.quietpress.com/vikingbrooch.html

I plan to order them silver-plated.  

I am also working on an early period Russian costume rather like this one by a 
reenactor with  society called New Varangian Guard:

http://users.bigpond.net.au/quarfwa/miklagard/Costume/Rus/Female/Rus_Female_main.htm

My overskirt (called a panova) will be sky blue wool flannel, though, while 
hers is blue plaid.  I have sewn the panels and need only to attach them to a 
cord or narrow strap.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] PS on underwear
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2004 22:20:19 -0400
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On Wednesday 08 September 2004 6:24 am, Elizabeth Walpole wrote:
[snip]
> Well I don't have any personal experience (though the other day I found a
> 19yr old friend had used the belt and pad and washing it out after use
> arrangement for a couple of years until she actually paid attention to what
> was available in the shops and started buying her own) It seems to me that
> simply having it attached at each corner would help (I get the impression
> that they only one clip/pin at either end)

There was only one fastener at each end, though it wasn't a clip; it was more 
like a loop with a pointed prong protruding into the middle of the loop.  
Sanitary pads at the time were made with a long tab consisting of a long 
extension of the materal the pad was covered with; the idea was to pull that 
tab through the loop and pierce it with the prong inside so that it wouldn't 
slide the rest of the way through.  Although the tabs were made of pretty 
tough stuff, this method didn't really work very well.  :-(

I don't think having an attachment point at each corner would have been much 
different from having only one at each end, because the pads were so narrow 
(about 3 inches wide tops)  .

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
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Well, I have a few linen shifts that have seen too many days and should be 
replaced.  I've been getting my linen ready for laundering/shrinking before 
cutting out.  But I've  been distracted by making plans to visit my family 
when my niece (and her newborn) come to visit from Australia. I wanted to 
make certain that I scheduled this trip so I can see my nephew-in-law 
(while my niece and the baby can stay for a month, he only has two weeks of 
vacation) as well.  And I want to make a gift for the little one.  So the 
sewing stuff has been sitting staring at me.  If I get my act together, I 
can have the shifts cut out for hand-sewing soon.  Then I need to make 
another 1840's work dress for Sutter's Fort.  Once I get the cutting-out 
done, the sewing is easy (I love to hand-sew things).  It's the cutting-out 
that holds me up.

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Hi, Marc. In some of the illustrations that Gerry Embleton shows for his 
15th Cent. group "The Companye of Saint George" he shows shoes with, 
most probably, clouted on patches on the heel and under the ball of the 
foot. These reinforcements are sometimes trotted out by folks looking to 
document pre-late 16th cent Western European heel risers, but that isn't 
the case. You can see some illos that show this on pg. 12 of his and 
John Howe's  "The Medieval Soldier" book. However, neither he nor John 
nor, for that matter, anyone in their group ever to my knowledge has 
trotted this out as documentation of pre late 16th cent. heels per se. 
Hope this helps, Mike T.

Marc Carlson wrote:

> Over the weekend I was teaching a class on shoes and someone mentioned 
> that they'd seen a note to a list (either this one, or Authentic SCA, 
> or something very similar - I neglected to write it down) in which the 
> writer said that they had seen evidence for 15th century heels.  I've 
> been looking for this message, but am not finding it.  If anyone has 
> any clue what I'm talking about, please let me know :)
>
> Marc/Diarmaid
>
>

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On Wednesday 08 September 2004 11:01 pm, Joan Jurancich wrote:
[snip]

>  Once I get the cutting-out
> done, the sewing is easy (I love to hand-sew things).  It's the cutting-out
> that holds me up.

I'm not particularly fond of handsewing, but I agree it's the cutting out that 
holds me up, too.  Once I have all the pieces cut out, I manage to finish the 
item, usually in short order.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New McCall's patterns
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Hi Cindy and all,

Taking a look at the patterns, and from what I am seeing, I would pass on 
them for the truly historic patterns. Decent for those winging it and not 
worried about authenticity. Here are some of my thoughts on them, YMMV and 
I by no means consider my thoughts to be taken as gospel, just my opinion.

At 09:21 AM 9/8/2004 -0500, you wrote:
<<snip>>
>4795--Man's Rennaissance Doublet with several variations. Seems to have the
>correct look--Probably good for getting the basic modern measurements and
>then purists can go to Janet Arnold's or other scale patterns to perfect the
>cut.

The body front has obvious darts for fitting the front, which is not 
appropriate, really. However, the trims option over the darts would hide 
that flaw. The peplum is very long as well. Might work for 17th c., but for 
16th c., just not quite right in my eyes. At least the sleeves are detachable.

>4796--Woman's Rennaissance bodices Less historically accurate than the Man's
>Doublet. But again, probably good for basic fit and then going from there.

I would put this into the fantasy faire category. It's the princess seaming 
that screams it, and the wing sleeves on one view. And if you have side 
lacings, why have back lacings?

>4797--Woman's Civil War era Jacket with insert fake vest, skirt, and shawl
>cutting guide.  Cut looks like it was taken perhaps from a real jacket
>possibly as all the seams look right. It also appears like actual wear, not
>taken from a fashion plate. Doesn't have helpful notes and comments, like
>Martha McCain's Simplicity patterns.

Why does this remind me of Chitty Chitty Bang Bang? I think it is the hat 
with veiling. However, I don't have much info on the time period 
appropriateness of it, so I won't comment further.

><snip>>
>4797--Woman's cloak--several views. Just your basic cloak with a hood like
>the Folkwear Kinsale cloak pattern--very full-cut hood with a self-ruffled
>front.

Actually #4698. And it looks a lot like my Kinsale cloak pattern from the 
basic design line. However, it doesn't appear to have the button add-on 
option of the hood that the Folkwear pattern has, or at least the suggested 
notions don't appear to list buttons or anything.

>Cindy Abel

Again, YMMV, this was just my opinion, especially on the Renaissance time 
frame, tho' my knowledge is 16th c. British Isles, and may not apply for 
other regions.

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Owner ~ DreamTime Studios
http://www.dreamtime-studios.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] PS on underwear
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On Wed, 8 Sep 2004, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:

> There was only one fastener at each end, though it wasn't a clip; it
> was more like a loop with a pointed prong protruding into the middle
> of the loop.  Sanitary pads at the time were made with a long tab
> consisting of a long extension of the materal the pad was covered
> with; the idea was to pull that tab through the loop and pierce it
> with the prong inside so that it wouldn't slide the rest of the way
> through.  Although the tabs were made of pretty tough stuff, this
> method didn't really work very well.  :-(

My goodness, I hadn't thought about those in years. I had forgotten about
that loop/prong thing. Now I remember taking the tail end of the extension
and wrapping it back around the loop and tying a knot to keep the whole
thing from sliding. Yes, it was a little lumpy, but it stayed put.

I also remember the ads in girls' magazines (like Seventeen or American
Girl) written like little comic strips:
 "Hey, Sue, wearing your slinky new dress to the dance?"
 "I can't. It's that time of the month, and every outline will show."
 "Haven't you tried these new tampons? Designed just for teens like us! No
bulky applicators!"
 [Last panel, of course, Sue is wearing her slinky new dress and singing
the praises of the tampons...]

What strange things are stuck in my brain.

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
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Ditto!

I also procrastinate over the exact design of the garment if there's a few
to choose from. When there's only one, I'll just procrastinate over the
cutting <insert sound of gnashing teeth>

Glenda.

> I'm not particularly fond of handsewing, but I agree it's the cutting out
that
> holds me up, too.  Once I have all the pieces cut out, I manage to finish
the
> item, usually in short order.
>
> -- 
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New McCall's patterns
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2004 22:24:46 -0600
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With the critical part being in the right place at the right time.  I 
wonder if they ever advertise for patternmakers somewhere?

On Sep 8, 2004, at 6:18 PM, AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 9/8/2004 7:54:01 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
> sylvia@ntw.net
> writes:
>
>> I wonder how one goes about getting a job as a historical patternmaker
>> for one of the big pattern companies.  Sounds like a good gig.
>>
>
> Like any gig, on top of being good at what you do and caring about 
> what you
> do [which doesn't always matter] it's being in the right place at the 
> right
> time.
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 09:44:01 +0100
From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: RE:  [h-cost] PS on underwear
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> I opened up a new brand of pad this month and was astounded 
> to find that the wings sealed not with adhesive strips, but 
> with *velcro.*

Well, if they do it on disposable nappies for babies, why not on pads
for women.

Teddy
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From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Who asked about diamond-weave wool?
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> Teddy wrote:
> > A while back someone was asking about diamond-weave wool and I've 
> > forgotten who it was.
> > 
> > Whoever you are, if you could email me I can give you details of the

> > one I mentioned having seen on a traders stall at an event - I
tracked 
> > it down over the weekend and got a sample of it for you.
> 

-Judy Mitchell responded;
> 	ooo! I wasn't the one who brought it up onlist so I don't
qualify as 
> the one you got the sample for (darnit!), but I'm definately
interested 
> in info. Are they affordable (without mortgaging the house), and would

> they ship to the US????? wow.

Yes to both, Judy.  

He gets the fabric specially woven (I think he said for Viking
re-enactors) and his prices are reasoanble and he's happy to ship abroad
(I know he sells in mainland Europe, so I'm assuming the US is not a
problem either)

As soon as I tidy my seing room enough for hte sample and details to
fight their way tot he surface I'll post them to the list (as well as
sending the actual sample to Cathy)

Teddy 
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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Queen Anne's Lace/OT
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The QAL that has been discussed here (with the pink central floret) is
wild carrot. However, in Britain the name is used for cow parsley, a
common roadside flower, but not very commonly. According to Richard
Mabey's "Flora Britannica" there have been various suggestions as to the
origin of the name.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> mara@rileyhome.net 29/08/2004 02:16:38 >>>
Coming in late -- was Queen Anne's Lace called something else before it
got 
that name?

-- Mara

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From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: RE:  [h-cost] current and future work?
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> > Hi, just curious about what your projekts will be for the next
months. 
> > Autumn and winter is here, so i have got my plans ready now.

You mena in addition to all the stuff I should have had done for this
summer and didn't get aroudn to tand all the "unfinished" projects
sitting on a bcak-burner waiting for me to get back to them???...<g>

Seriously though....  

* I didn't finish the bed-ghangings for our medieval tent because the
hand sewing is so time-consuming and boring (sewing down velvet
edge-strips around six panels of purple and gold brocade, plus a
matching canopy) so I'm hoping to get them done a bit each week over the
winter season ready for use next summer.

* I still have to alter the armholes and finish the neckline and hem of
a full-cirlce houpellande for a friend, plus the doublet and hat to go
with it.
 
* I have orders to fill for two rag-dolls (the first I've made for
paying customers in over 8 years and my prices hadn't been upped in over
ten years then so I have *no* idea what to charge for the things now!!!)
The customers who ordered them don't seem to mind but I don't want to
overcharge them and I don't want the final price to come as a shock
(there's a lot of hand-work on them, I fabric paint then embroider over
the faces, hand sew all the hair on and hand finish the clothes).

* I *have* to make new stuff for my 14th adn 15th century wardrobes.
The exisitng stuff is a combination f too small to fit and/or so
old/worn-out it's falling appart.  The braies and shirts are the only
bit's I've kept up to date with.

* I never got aroudn to making the Victorian bathing -suit I was hoping
to wear at the end of August (fortunately, neither did the girl who was
meant to be accompanying me) and I'd liek to get some other victorian
kit made for wearing to Melanie Wilson's Victorian get-togethers (I'm
having to skip this autumn's one partly because I haven't the kit to
wear to it, and I did so enjoy last years one)

* All the back-burner unfinished projects that really ned to be hauled
out and done out of the way.

But I don't really like to think about the length of the list because
it's quite daunting.

Teddy

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: current and future work?
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    My list doesn't seem to change as much as others; nor do I seem to be
able to work as fast as the rest of you!

    Mine is as follows:

- Finish Wind embroidery (figure I have about two weeks worth of work left.
I hope!) http://www.5rivers.org/en-gb/dept_33.html will take you to the
right web page, and just scroll down a bit. The image there was taken a few
months ago now and Wind has certainly progressed since then. When I have it
done I'll post new pics.

- Get Water embroidery on the frame and finished.
- Embroidered sleeve appliqués for a friend, which will go on the frame the
same time as Water. The sleeve appliqués are borrowing heavily from Norse
design, goldwork on green wool/silk ground.
- Embroider cloak of state in a design I've created very much influenced by
both the Sutton Hoo chambered pieces and the Roger III of Sicily cloak. This
is to be red silk ground with goldwork.
- Finish Gary's 15th century archer's garments
- Handsew an Italian Renaissance ensemble for myself
- Design, embroider and sew an early 18th century frock coat variation for
myself using some gorgeous cream wool/silk twill I have, done with an
Elizabethan blackwork motif.
- Design, embroider and sew a teal green suit for myself with, what else,
copious quantities of embroidery.

    There's more on the list, but realistically I'll be lucky to get Wind,
Water and the sleeve appliqués done over the winter. Sigh.

Regards
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage
fine hand-sewn embroidered garments, historical sewing patterns & embroidery
supplies
(519) 799-5577, http://www.5rivers.org  email: info@5rivers.org

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From: Lena Strid <lstrid@mglarc.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] current and future work?
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>> Hi, just curious about what your projekts will be for the next months. 
>> Autumn and winter is here, so i have got my plans ready now.

- Start on the blue surcote to go with my late 13th/early 14th century
golden yellow kirtle (see folio with the bathing man in the Manesse Codex
for my inspiration), which needs to be finished before August 2005.

- Hopefully get around to make the Herjolfsnes "houppelande" which I planned
for last winter. Haven't decided yet if I should line it or not. After all,
the Irish climate does not motivate double layers of wool, although if I
move back home, autumn/winter in Sweden would.

- Make a 10th century Hedeby/Křstrup apron dress so I would more blend in
with the Hiberno-Norse group I sometimes play with. (hmmm, need to get
tortoise shell brooches as well...)

As well as several other projects put on the back shelf for a couple of
years now... - and likely to stay there for a few years more. :-)

/Lena


=================================================
Margaret Gowen & Co. Ltd.
Archaeological Consultants & Project Managers
2 Killiney View                   Tel: 01-2300433
Albert Road Lower                 Fax: 01-2300865
Glenageary         e-mail: archaeology@mglarc.com
Co. Dublin	   website: http://www.mglarc.com
=================================================

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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Vanity Fair
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 11:14:44 +1000
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<snip> think perhaps that the too-thin look
of
> many of today's actresses would not come across well--you need a little
bosom
> to carry off the look!
>
> Ann Wass

I think the bosom look is probably why they possibly didn't want somebody
who was really skinny (Exhibit A: Gwyneth Paltrow in Emma). However, if you
can ask an actress to put on weight for Bridget Jones' Diary why not for
Vanity Fair. I really don't know if the pregnancy issue is really what the
director actually wanted, especially as it's difficult (bordering on
impossible) to insure an actress after a certain point in her pregnancy, and
because most scenes are not shot in order the costumer would have to try to
keep her looking the same despite her growing belly and probably her bust as
well. If it was me I'd be asking her to put on weight, rather than asking
her husband to try to get her pregnant (I'm not even going to start on
what's wrong with that conversation) it's fairly easy to keep fat at a
steady state if you can regiment how much/what they eat and how much they
exercise. Pregnancy, on the other hand, is a constantly changing state, it's
difficult to impossible to predict how fast or how much the body's shape
will change (especially if this is her first child), and it's a state that
only lasts for 9 months.
Elizabeth
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
Elizabeth Beaumont              Elizabeth Walpole
Politarchopolis, Lochac     Canberra Australia
             ewalpole@austar.net.au

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lena Strid" <lstrid@mglarc.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2004 5:27 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] current and future work?


> >> Hi, just curious about what your projekts will be for the next months.
> >> Autumn and winter is here, so i have got my plans ready now.

Current--Elizabethan gown, silk chemise, partlet, and painted flag fan for a
customer. The gown is very basic so it will be relatively quick

Purple cotton brocade bodice for a customer

Elizabethan gown for myself
Eliz dress for an American Girl size doll (I just made a kirtle and sideless
for a Barbie!)

Future projects--

Pelican portrait dress in black cotton velvet and pearls with blackworked
sleeves (very long term project--planning on AT LEAST a year to work on this
one)

And I have this 8 yard roll of navy cotton brocade that is just begging me
to do something with it, but it hasn't told me what yet!

Dianne


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Subject: RE:  [h-cost] current and future work?
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Goodness!  After reading everyone else's long lists, I don't feel so bad!
Well, my sewing business is starting to rev up and not in the direction I had anticipated.  There are lots of clothing merchants at events, but not many actually have undergarments made of linen.  I thought I'd fill that niche, when I went to Merchant last weekend, with the sewing on commission as a side business.  But now I have 13 clients; 11 wanting a minimum of two garments. One client wants tudor from the skin out by 12th night (1/7-9 2005) and another client wants a t tunic by mid November (thank goodness at least 1 easy project!).  Almost all of the rest of my clients want Italian Ren. chemise and gowns.
I'm still getting over the shock because they all know that I don't work cheap...I'm glad I love to sew all the things I will be making!!!!!  Over the past several years I've learned that I like seeing my garb on folks.  You see, what had happened is, I'd make the garb for me, and then when I hit *really* hard times I'd sell my garments to make money for things like paying the rent...I made the pleasant discovery that even though I am short, the bodices of my italian ren seemed to *fit* almost all body types!  I draft my own patterns, and thought that my garb wouldn't really sell because I'm not particuarly, um...well endowed.  Imagine my surprise that even buxsom ladies fit the bodices of my gowns.   *amazed bemusement*

For my family, I want to make my daughter a new italian ren out of some gorgeous silk/rayon velevet that's a very luscious purply-blue.  She also needs new camping garb so that's at least 5 new outfits for her and a new cloak.  We've just discovered that she breaks out in hives when wool touches her skin.  She's out grown (tall-wise) everything I've made...again...
I'd like to make me a tudor from the skin out (for my new persona) out of some gorgeous red silks I have.  Or maybe I'll make it out of the garnet silk/velvet I have.   Oh, I know!  I'll do two tudors!  
*giggling nervously*  I don't think I'll be taking on any more clients until I get my current clientele served.  If I don't look at the lists, I don't panic so much..."One client, one garment at a time" is my new working theme. 
--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 
Emer's Needle Wares
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New McCall's patterns
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Every time I try to go to www.McCalls.com, I get a "Website not responding" 
prompt. So I got on Netscape to try it and there I get "Request refused from 
site".

Why is that??? Don't they like me at McCalls?

How about a link to these patterns. Or do I have to drive somewhere just to 
look at them. I'm sure not gonna by any McCalls patterns if they won't even let 
me on their web site.  :-P
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Who asked about diamond-weave wool?
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Cool!
--sue (another drooling american....drooling over the fabric, that is!)

Teddy wrote:

>>Are they affordable (without mortgaging the house), and would 
>>they ship to the US????? wow.
> > 
> Yes to both, Judy.  
> 
> He gets the fabric specially woven (I think he said for Viking
> re-enactors) and his prices are reasoanble and he's happy to ship abroad
> (I know he sells in mainland Europe, so I'm assuming the US is not a
> problem either)
> 
> As soon as I tidy my seing room enough for hte sample and details to
> fight their way tot he surface I'll post them to the list (as well as
> sending the actual sample to Cathy)

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Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 05:49:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tania Gruning <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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My current project is a skirt in wine-red velveteen. The skirt is inspired by the one that crown princess Mary of Denmark wore at her wedding. 
I also have a late tudor early elizabethan. A copy of the spanish princess Clara Euginia (i think). Made out of some cotton brocade with an acanthus leaf motiv. I really like the severe lines of the fashions of the spanish court.
My dreamed of projects. A complete riding habit, from around 1891. elegant and severe. Simple lines and beautiful fabrics. I need to make the full monty which includes underwear, riding trousers, skirt(apron) and jacket. Will take a lot of skill in tailoring, and i need some more practice in that area before i start.
Tania
Denmark

Dianne & Greg Stucki <goofy1@suscom.net> wrote:

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lena Strid" 
To: "'Historical Costume'" 
Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2004 5:27 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] current and future work?


> >> Hi, just curious about what your projekts will be for the next months.
> >> Autumn and winter is here, so i have got my plans ready now.

Current--Elizabethan gown, silk chemise, partlet, and painted flag fan for a
customer. The gown is very basic so it will be relatively quick

Purple cotton brocade bodice for a customer

Elizabethan gown for myself
Eliz dress for an American Girl size doll (I just made a kirtle and sideless
for a Barbie!)

Future projects--

Pelican portrait dress in black cotton velvet and pearls with blackworked
sleeves (very long term project--planning on AT LEAST a year to work on this
one)

And I have this 8 yard roll of navy cotton brocade that is just begging me
to do something with it, but it hasn't told me what yet!

Dianne


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 08:54:24 2004
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 08:37:03 -0400
From: Judy Mitchell <judymitch@oldwaylane.net>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Who asked about diamond-weave wool?
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Teddy wrote:
> Yes to both, Judy.  
> 
> He gets the fabric specially woven (I think he said for Viking
> re-enactors) and his prices are reasoanble and he's happy to ship abroad
> (I know he sells in mainland Europe, so I'm assuming the US is not a
> problem either)
> 
> As soon as I tidy my seing room enough for hte sample and details to
> fight their way tot he surface I'll post them to the list (as well as
> sending the actual sample to Cathy)


	Fab! cool. can't wait :-D

	-Judy Mitchell
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From: Susan Farmer <sfarmer@sabre.goldsword.com>
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] PS on underwear
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> My goodness, I hadn't thought about those in years. I had forgotten about
> that loop/prong thing. Now I remember taking the tail end of the extension
> and wrapping it back around the loop and tying a knot to keep the whole
> thing from sliding. Yes, it was a little lumpy, but it stayed put.
>
> I also remember the ads in girls' magazines (like Seventeen or American
> Girl) written like little comic strips:
>  "Hey, Sue, wearing your slinky new dress to the dance?"
>  "I can't. It's that time of the month, and every outline will show."
>  "Haven't you tried these new tampons? Designed just for teens like us! No
> bulky applicators!"
>  [Last panel, of course, Sue is wearing her slinky new dress and singing
> the praises of the tampons...]

My two favorite Seventeen magazine ads:

1) Pink typrwriter with flower decals and peace signs on it.  Piece of letter
paper in the typewriter.  Typing:  Dear Mother Nature,   DROP DEAD!!!!!!
Sincerely ...
Can't remember if it was an ad for napkins, tampons, or Midol.

2) Package of Panty Hose with the slogan:  These panty hose will *not*
bag, sag, wrinkle ... or fit your mother

susan
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From: Judy Mitchell <judymitch@oldwaylane.net>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New McCall's patterns
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AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
> Every time I try to go to www.McCalls.com, I get a "Website not responding" 
> prompt. So I got on Netscape to try it and there I get "Request refused from 
> site".
> 
> Why is that??? Don't they like me at McCalls?

    Maybe you're using an old address or something? Try this one that I 
just pulled up. It's what I use, and works just fine. 
<http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/mccallspatterns/shop.cgi>

    The only stupid thing I've found on the McCall's/Butterick/Vogues 
sites is that their webdeveloper decided that when you type in the 
pattern name into the search box, you actually have to click 'go!' 
instead of just hitting return.

	-Judy Mitchell


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>
> Every time I try to go to www.McCalls.com, I get a "Website not responding" 
> prompt. So I got on Netscape to try it and there I get "Request refused from 
> site".
>
> Why is that??? Don't they like me at McCalls?

Mayhap because it's www.mccall.com -- no S

Jerusha
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New McCall's patterns
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Status: RO

I also have never seen this 'style' either in surviving garments or in
photo.  I have hundreds of photos from this supposed period!  Even if you do
a faux vest with jacket, these are of the last quarter of the century and
the skirt indeed  on both the jacket and and nethers is also wrong even for
that late period.
I have been redrafting shoulders for most of the commercial patterns, as
well as other points of fitting for years.  I use the patterns mainly for
sizing.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <cschmitt@genteelarts.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2004 12:09 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New McCall's patterns


> On Wed Sep  8  9:49 , Theflamingneedle@aol.com sent:
>
> >The problem that I always have with the commercial CW era patterns is
that they never get the dropped shoulders
> >right.  Universally (as universally as fashion ever gets, anyways) early
60's styles had the shoulders that hit past
> >the ball of the shoulder, almost upper arm.  Yet these patterns are
determined to keep them up at the upper shoulder.
>
> I'm very hesitant to use "absolutes" when referring to period fashions,
but I think the dropped armscye (shoulder) is
> an absolute must for early 1860s styles.  This pattern (correct #4697)
doesn't have it.
>
> >Also, I've never seen a period garment (from the actual CW era) with that
type of skirting/attached peplum.  Waists
> >generally ended at the waist.
>
> I've seen several examples of mid-19th century garments with the faux-vest
effect (photographs, fashion plates and
> original garments). Some are achieved with the use of trims, others have a
vest front attached to the side seams.  But
> these have all been dresses or jackets, not a long coat like this one.
And generally outergarments (paletots,
> pardeusseseus, etc.)from this period do not have a seam at the waistline.
>
> I also have an issue with the arrangement of the pleats and the location
of the closure on the skirt.  And the fabric
> requirements, especially for the skirt, seem excessive.  This pattern may
meet your needs for Dickens' Fair and similar
> events, but I don't recommend it for accurate historic clothing.
>
> Ms. McCain is a member of this list. Perhaps she can give us an update on
any works in progress.
>
> Carolann Schmitt
> cschmitt@genteelarts.com
> www.genteelarts.com
> Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 3-6, 2005
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New McCall's patterns
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In a message dated 9/9/04 7:27:28 AM Central Daylight Time, AlbertCat@aol.com 
writes:
How about a link to these patterns. Or do I have to drive somewhere just to 
look at them. I'm sure not gonna by any McCalls patterns if they won't even 
let 
me on their web site.  :-P


I don't know what web address you're trying to access, but I've been on their 
site yesterday and today, and it's working fine.

Here's a link to the page that has the new patterns on it:

http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/mccallspatterns/shop.cgi?s.page.7&TI=4000
1&M=&pageSize=9&UK=34070977

Are you by any chance trying to access www.mcccalls.com?  Because that's not 
their site, and it doesn't work.  The correct site is either www.mccall.com, 
or www.mccallspatterns.com/indexfv.html.  

**Tiff**
eBay Selling ID: Reflections*of*Worth
Historical Reproductions and Costumes
"Education is a progressive discovery of our own ignorance." -Will Durant
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 10:21:35 -0400
Subject: Re: pads etc...Re: [h-cost] PS on underwear
From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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And then, speaking of eco-friendly solutions, there are sponges worn as
tampons -- which apparently also have some historical antecedants -- but not
much of a costume connection...The sponges were messy if you had to use
public restrooms where the sink for rinsing was at a distance from the
toilet, and also, dangerous if you sneezed...
Lauren

> From: "Danielle Nunn-Weinberg" <dannw@lycos.com>

> I tried an eco-friendly method for awhile with cotton fleece and flannel pads
> with velcro which were supposed to be soaked then washed for reuse - one of
> the biggest problems I had with the method (I evenutally gave up on it) was
> the velcro mangled your underwear very quickly.  So, I'm not sure that is a
> step in the right direction, unless they have a conspiracy with underwear
> manufacturers...
> 
> Cheers,
> Danielle 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 19th century underwear
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> From: Vicki_Betts@mail.uttyl.edu

> 
> It was not only frowned upon, it was against the law for women to wear
> pants in many American cities during the 1860s.  I've run across newspaper
> articles about quite a few women getting hauled into court and fined the
> rough equivalent of a week's pay ($6-$10 in Memphis) for daring to wear
> pants, unless they had military orders proving that they were vivandieres.
> Full "bloomer" reform dress, with the short skirt, just seemed to attract
> ridicule, however.   I've mainly seen that attire associated with the
> North.

Were they arresting women for pants-as-outerwear or for pants-as-underwear?
Lauren

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 08:47:42 -0600
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How does one get into this type of sewing business?  It sounds a lot 
more lucrative than my online business which caters to the goth and 
belly dance markets.  When I started my business in about 1997 I 
thought it would eventually take off and I could live off of it but it 
has never progresses further than bringing me in an order about once 
every 2 weeks.  I have never been involved in Renn faires or the SCA or 
anything like that.  Any suggestions on where to start?

Sylrog

On Sep 9, 2004, at 5:43 AM, gia_gavino@comcast.net wrote:

> Goodness!  After reading everyone else's long lists, I don't feel so 
> bad!
> Well, my sewing business is starting to rev up and not in the 
> direction I had anticipated.  There are lots of clothing merchants at 
> events, but not many actually have undergarments made of linen.  I 
> thought I'd fill that niche, when I went to Merchant last weekend, 
> with the sewing on commission as a side business.  But now I have 13 
> clients; 11 wanting a minimum of two garments. One client wants tudor 
> from the skin out by 12th night (1/7-9 2005) and another client wants 
> a t tunic by mid November (thank goodness at least 1 easy project!).  
> Almost all of the rest of my clients want Italian Ren. chemise and 
> gowns.
> I'm still getting over the shock because they all know that I don't 
> work cheap...I'm glad I love to sew all the things I will be 
> making!!!!!  Over the past several years I've learned that I like 
> seeing my garb on folks.  You see, what had happened is, I'd make the 
> garb for me, and then when I hit *really* hard times I'd sell my 
> garments to make money for things like paying the rent...I made the 
> pleasant discovery that even though I am short, the bodices of my 
> italian ren seemed to *fit* almost all body types!  I draft my own 
> patterns, and thought that my garb wouldn't really sell because I'm 
> not particuarly, um...well endowed.  Imagine my surprise that even 
> buxsom ladies fit the bodices of my gowns.   *amazed bemusement*
>
> For my family, I want to make my daughter a new italian ren out of 
> some gorgeous silk/rayon velevet that's a very luscious purply-blue.  
> She also needs new camping garb so that's at least 5 new outfits for 
> her and a new cloak.  We've just discovered that she breaks out in 
> hives when wool touches her skin.  She's out grown (tall-wise) 
> everything I've made...again...
> I'd like to make me a tudor from the skin out (for my new persona) out 
> of some gorgeous red silks I have.  Or maybe I'll make it out of the 
> garnet silk/velvet I have.   Oh, I know!  I'll do two tudors!
> *giggling nervously*  I don't think I'll be taking on any more clients 
> until I get my current clientele served.  If I don't look at the 
> lists, I don't panic so much..."One client, one garment at a time" is 
> my new working theme.
> --
> Slan go foill
> Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri
> Emer's Needle Wares
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New McCall's patterns
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In a message dated 9/9/2004 9:04:58 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
judymitch@oldwaylane.net writes:

> http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/mccallspatterns/shop.cgi

That worked.

Yuk. I think these patterns are dreadful. Forget them.

It's funny but when I did my 1st Elizabethan thing I just took a man's vest 
pattern, added a peplum, some shoulder wings and high collar....then took the 
suit coat sleeves and tied them into the vest armseyes. This looks exactly like 
what they've done here.
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In a message dated 9/9/2004 9:21:27 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
sfarmer@sabre.goldsword.com writes:

> Mayhap because it's www.mccall.com -- no S
> 
> 

Interesting, 'cause a search will get you an "s".
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 19th century underwear
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Pants as outerwear.  Evidently both women trying to pass as men, and women
just dressing up on a lark but out in public.

Vicki Betts
vbetts@gower.net


> From: Vicki_Betts@mail.uttyl.edu

>
> It was not only frowned upon, it was against the law for women to wear
> pants in many American cities during the 1860s.

Were they arresting women for pants-as-outerwear or for pants-as-underwear?
Lauren



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From: pixel <goddessandqueen@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] v-neck gowns
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On Fri, 3 Sep 2004 13:07:33 -0500 (CDT), Robin Netherton
<robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:
> 
> On Fri, 3 Sep 2004, Cynthia Virtue wrote:
> 
> > However, a full interior fur lining would make the garments very thick
> > through the body, especially considering how wide they are to be
> > gathered in by the belt.  The images are universally narrow through
> > the body, not more than one would expect with just fabric layers.
> 
> I've seen fur that's *that* thin. And that's what would have been used.
> 
> The near-universal use of fur linings -- full-body fur linings -- for the
> gowns of the nobility in this period is well documented (from period
> accounts, inventories, laws, and guild regulations, not just pictures).
> Elspeth Veale is the best starting point. Reading that book -- and it's a
> good read, too, not dry at all -- changed the way I look at clothing from
> this period.
> 
> This is why I'm planning on lining one of these dresses with a
> furry-surface napped wool fabric. It's closer in weight to a fine fur than
> any fur I could afford. Though truth is, the fur was probably finer and
> more compressible than even the wool will be.
> 
> --Robin
> 

Indeed. I have a handful (literally) of grey squirrel peelings that
are going to be trim or hood lining once I figure out what I'm going
to do with them, and not only is the fur itself fairly fine but the
actual skin is pretty thin as well. I imagine that if it was scraped
carefully during the tanning process you could get it really thin
without too much trouble. The bunny peelings that will supplement the
squirrel are similarly thin and fine, though not as fine and soft as
ermine.

I crumpled two of the squirrel skins together in my hand to see how
thick they are when they're gathered, and they seem to be about as
thick as the wool flannel lining of my cloak, maybe a little less. The
skins themselves are between 6 and 8 inches wide, spread out flat.

Incidentally, people who do fur linings tell me that you want to
secure the fur to the fabric that it's lining, or to a backing fabric,
or it will tear under its own weight. The conversation was about
bunnies, but I imagine it would apply to squirrels as well. So you'd
get regular vertical seams where you'd attached the fur to the fabric,
as well as regular seams in the lining where the skins were pieced.

Pixel/Margaret
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Heel question (crossposted)
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The only heeled shoes I can think of and this is
perhaps where it is coming from, are riding boots.
Queen Elizabeth's buskins are extant and clearly have
heels, but then again riding boots would. Perhaps the
art or whatever in question happens to be equestrian
in content? Just my two cents from my limited
knowledge on the subject.

Kathy

> Marc Carlson wrote:
> 
> > Over the weekend I was teaching a class on shoes
> and someone mentioned 
> > that they'd seen a note to a list (either this
> one, or Authentic SCA, 
> > or something very similar - I neglected to write
> it down) in which the 
> > writer said that they had seen evidence for 15th
> century heels.  I've 
> > been looking for this message, but am not finding
> it.  If anyone has 
> > any clue what I'm talking about, please let me
> know :)
> >
> > Marc/Diarmaid

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From: michael tartaglio <mikes@dandy.net>
>Hi, Marc. In some of the illustrations that Gerry Embleton shows for his 
>15th Cent. group "The Companye of Saint George" he shows shoes with, most 
>probably, clouted on patches on the heel and under the ball of the foot. 
>These reinforcements are sometimes trotted out by folks looking to document 
>pre-late 16th cent Western European heel risers, but that isn't the case. 
>You can see some illos that show this on pg. 12 of his and John Howe's  
>"The Medieval Soldier" book. However, neither he nor John nor, for that 
>matter, anyone in their group ever to my knowledge has trotted this out as 
>documentation of pre late 16th cent. heels per se. Hope this helps, Mike T.

Oh, I'm fairly certain that this is what was beting referrd to, but unless I 
can find the actual posting, I can't be positive.

As an aside, double-soled shoes are occasionally mentioned in the (sparse) 
14th century medieval literature, which suggests that while the added outer 
sole might have been initially used for repairs (clouting), they were later 
used as a typical option for a new shoe.  (Curiously this is also the 
pattern that occured in the 19th century introducing added outer "tapp" 
soles to modern welted construction shoes - first a repair, then an option). 
  I've seen examples where the outer soles were clearly being put over 
unworn inner soles.  However, as you say, these are still not "raised 
heels".

Marc

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] PS on underwear
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From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue+dated+1110299935.39e417@thibault.org>
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Teddy wrote:

>>I opened up a new brand of pad this month and was astounded 
>>to find that the wings sealed not with adhesive strips, but 
>>with *velcro.* 
> Well, if they do it on disposable nappies for babies, why not on pads
> for women.

Different orientation of fastening -- around the hips for babies, onto 
underwear for women.  I can go into detail if needed, but off list.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

For nonsqueamish gourmets: "At peace with my role in the food chain" BBQ 
Apron -- http://www.cafepress.com/virtueventures
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] PS on underwear
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cynthia Virtue" <cvirtue+dated+1110299935.39e417@thibault.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2004 12:40 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] PS on underwear


> Teddy wrote:
> 
> >>I opened up a new brand of pad this month and was astounded 
> >>to find that the wings sealed not with adhesive strips, but 
> >>with *velcro.* 
> > Well, if they do it on disposable nappies for babies, why not on pads
> > for women.

Lack of pubic hair on babies! (ouch ouch)

Dianne


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 19th century underwear
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> > From: Vicki_Betts@mail.uttyl.edu
>
> > 
> > It was not only frowned upon, it was against the law for women to wear
> > pants in many American cities during the 1860s.  I've run across newspaper
> > articles about quite a few women getting hauled into court and fined the
> > rough equivalent of a week's pay ($6-$10 in Memphis) for daring to wear
> > pants, unless they had military orders proving that they were vivandieres.
> > Full "bloomer" reform dress, with the short skirt, just seemed to attract
> > ridicule, however.   I've mainly seen that attire associated with the
> > North.
>
> Were they arresting women for pants-as-outerwear or for pants-as-underwear?
> Lauren

I can't speak to the getting arrested part; but as late as the 1960's there
were girls at my high school (class of 1971) that wore dresses in gym class
because they wouldn't wear pants or even shorts.  They weren't Mennonite,
but it was some religious denominational rule.

Susan
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
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>
> How does one get into this type of sewing business?  It sounds a lot 
> more lucrative than my online business which caters to the goth and 
> belly dance markets.  When I started my business in about 1997 I 
> thought it would eventually take off and I could live off of it but it 
> has never progresses further than bringing me in an order about once 
> every 2 weeks.  I have never been involved in Renn faires or the SCA or 
> anything like that.  Any suggestions on where to start?

My guess would be to at least cultivate RenFaire or SCA clientele if you
don't want to get involved there.  People can't use a service if they don't
know that it exists.

Jerusha
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>
> In a message dated 9/9/2004 9:21:27 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
> sfarmer@sabre.goldsword.com writes:
>
> > Mayhap because it's www.mccall.com -- no S
> > 
> > 
>
> Interesting, 'cause a search will get you an "s".

Who knows!  I googled and got the top page of butterick.com and then
opened McCall's in a new window -- and that's where the above
URL came from.  They may have purchased both domains.  I know that
I've tried to go to www.mccalls.com before and the link wouldn't 
work.

Just a Web Thang I guess.

Susan
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As I'm on digest, I may have missed some replies, but do you have:

Markland

The Adrian Empire

Amtgard

The Richard III Society

The Richard III Foundation

All the others I'm aware of reenact later periods. Also, Cynthia Virtue did an article on reenactment groups a few years ago-has she been heard from?

Carol

 



Carol Mitchell listowner Costumemidwest www.yahoogroups.com/group/costumemidwest
		
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Susan Farmer" <sfarmer@sabre.goldsword.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2004 1:31 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 19th century underwear


> I can't speak to the getting arrested part; but as late as the 1960's
there
> were girls at my high school (class of 1971) that wore dresses in gym
class
> because they wouldn't wear pants or even shorts.  They weren't Mennonite,
> but it was some religious denominational rule.

My sister went to school with a girl who belonged to the Assembly of God
church and she was not allowed to wear pants or shorts.

Dianne


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Carol Mitchell wrote:

> All the others I'm aware of reenact later periods. Also, Cynthia Virtue did an article on reenactment groups a few years ago-has she been heard from?

Yep, I sent her the URL off list.  I took the article off links from my 
site because it's now really old (netwise) and I don't feel like redoing 
it to bring it current.  But it might be useful for her purposes.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

Register to vote!  Don't let that other guy win!
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 12:05:52 -0600
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Well, it has naturally occurred to me that I should start going to Renn 
Faires and I keep thinking of doing that every summer when there is one 
here in the Denver area.  But I guess my real questions are: 1)  does 
one just walk around a Renn faire in a good costume and get work?  Do 
people just come up to you and ask you to make them a costume?   2)  If 
not, are there other additional ways of getting involved?  3)  What 
other groups are helpful to look into besides the Renn faire circuit 
and the SCA?

On Sep 9, 2004, at 11:36 AM, Susan Farmer wrote:

>>
>> How does one get into this type of sewing business?  It sounds a lot
>> more lucrative than my online business which caters to the goth and
>> belly dance markets.  When I started my business in about 1997 I
>> thought it would eventually take off and I could live off of it but it
>> has never progresses further than bringing me in an order about once
>> every 2 weeks.  I have never been involved in Renn faires or the SCA 
>> or
>> anything like that.  Any suggestions on where to start?
>
> My guess would be to at least cultivate RenFaire or SCA clientele if 
> you
> don't want to get involved there.  People can't use a service if they 
> don't
> know that it exists.
>
> Jerusha
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 11:25:15 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
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I know from experience that if you show up at the California Ren faires in
an incredible outfit as a visitor the court people will want to get to know
you. If you say that you're a costumer and wouldn't mind work for anyone who
needs an outfit for next year and spread your business cards around, you'll
probably get some work, especially if the group is organized and keep a list
of available costumers. We tend to work inside the group (I haven't worked
the faires for a while now, but that's what we did), but there's often times
when the known costumers are too busy and you'll get work. Once you've
proven yourself by giving a wonderfully fitted, beautiful dress, people will
remember your name and give you work.

LynnD
St. George
Retired, RPF-N


> From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 12:05:52 -0600
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
> 
> Well, it has naturally occurred to me that I should start going to Renn
> Faires and I keep thinking of doing that every summer when there is one
> here in the Denver area.  But I guess my real questions are: 1)  does
> one just walk around a Renn faire in a good costume and get work?  Do
> people just come up to you and ask you to make them a costume?   2)  If
> not, are there other additional ways of getting involved?  3)  What
> other groups are helpful to look into besides the Renn faire circuit
> and the SCA?
> 
> On Sep 9, 2004, at 11:36 AM, Susan Farmer wrote:
> 
>>> 
>>> How does one get into this type of sewing business?  It sounds a lot
>>> more lucrative than my online business which caters to the goth and
>>> belly dance markets.  When I started my business in about 1997 I
>>> thought it would eventually take off and I could live off of it but it
>>> has never progresses further than bringing me in an order about once
>>> every 2 weeks.  I have never been involved in Renn faires or the SCA
>>> or
>>> anything like that.  Any suggestions on where to start?
>> 
>> My guess would be to at least cultivate RenFaire or SCA clientele if
>> you
>> don't want to get involved there.  People can't use a service if they
>> don't
>> know that it exists.
>> 
>> Jerusha
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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When you say an incredible outfit, do you mean a nobility type garment 
as opposed to the peasant type garb?  I know I can make one, as I have 
done so as a theatrical costumer on Shakespeare productions.  Do people 
other than those working the faires walk around in those types of 
costumes?


On Sep 9, 2004, at 12:25 PM, Lynn Downward wrote:

> I know from experience that if you show up at the California Ren 
> faires in
> an incredible outfit as a visitor the court people will want to get to 
> know
> you. If you say that you're a costumer and wouldn't mind work for 
> anyone who
> needs an outfit for next year and spread your business cards around, 
> you'll
> probably get some work, especially if the group is organized and keep 
> a list
> of available costumers. We tend to work inside the group (I haven't 
> worked
> the faires for a while now, but that's what we did), but there's often 
> times
> when the known costumers are too busy and you'll get work. Once you've
> proven yourself by giving a wonderfully fitted, beautiful dress, 
> people will
> remember your name and give you work.
>
> LynnD
> St. George
> Retired, RPF-N
>
>
>> From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
>> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 12:05:52 -0600
>> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
>>
>> Well, it has naturally occurred to me that I should start going to 
>> Renn
>> Faires and I keep thinking of doing that every summer when there is 
>> one
>> here in the Denver area.  But I guess my real questions are: 1)  does
>> one just walk around a Renn faire in a good costume and get work?  Do
>> people just come up to you and ask you to make them a costume?   2)  
>> If
>> not, are there other additional ways of getting involved?  3)  What
>> other groups are helpful to look into besides the Renn faire circuit
>> and the SCA?
>>
>> On Sep 9, 2004, at 11:36 AM, Susan Farmer wrote:
>>
>>>>
>>>> How does one get into this type of sewing business?  It sounds a lot
>>>> more lucrative than my online business which caters to the goth and
>>>> belly dance markets.  When I started my business in about 1997 I
>>>> thought it would eventually take off and I could live off of it but 
>>>> it
>>>> has never progresses further than bringing me in an order about once
>>>> every 2 weeks.  I have never been involved in Renn faires or the SCA
>>>> or
>>>> anything like that.  Any suggestions on where to start?
>>>
>>> My guess would be to at least cultivate RenFaire or SCA clientele if
>>> you
>>> don't want to get involved there.  People can't use a service if they
>>> don't
>>> know that it exists.
>>>
>>> Jerusha
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 14:41:32 2004
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 14:38:26 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Brenda Bell <webwarren@earthlink.net>
Subject: Women/girls and pants (WAS: Re: [h-cost] 19th century
  underwear)
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In the early '70's, when pants for girls was already pretty much 
accepted/acceptable in the public schools, one of my neighbors sent their 
daughter to the local Orthodox Yeshiva for her first year of Junior High. I 
don't remember all the details, but it was either that the girls didn't 
have gym at all, or they had a rather limited/modified PE curriculum 
conducted with them wearing dresses/skirts, because it was immodest (not to 
mention "cross-dressing") for a woman to wear pants, and it would have been 
VERY immodest for the girls' underwear to be showing. (Interestingly 
enough, this issue did NOT seem to exist for the summer camp they ran, 
which I attended one year as a child:  both the girls and the female 
counselors had no issues whatsoever with wearing shorts, and since this was 
before "Daisy Dukes", there really wasn't a modesty problem with one's 
shorts showing one's underwear -- or lack thereof.)

Except for that summer camp, it wasn't until I got to University in the 
late '70's that I knew any Orthodox girls/women who would wear pants for 
any reason (usually to their lab classes, for practical reasons). As long 
as the pants were purchased in the women's departments 
(Junior/Miss/Women's/etc.) they were fine. OTOH, to this day I don't think 
I have EVER seen a Chassidic women (of any of several Chassidic sects) 
wearing pants...

Hmm... a thought... considering that a lot of modern Chassidic dress 
(especially for the men) is considered to have been taken (and not much 
modified) from the styles that were current to the areas of Eastern Europe 
from which those sects arose, how closely related is Chassidic dress to 
historical dress/costume? (Has anyone really done a comparison of current 
and when-founded styles of the various Chassidic sects?)



Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 14:54:42 2004
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 11:53:12 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
To: h costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Again, I'm only using my own experience so yes, I'm talking about court
clothing. In the past, when we (in court) have seen visitors in wonderfully
well done court dresses, we've introduced ourselves and asked about the
dress - who did it, where the idea came from, how they got "that bit" to
work so well, etc. If we have fewer actors than usual that day, visitors
with outstanding clothing have been invited to join our progress through the
faire to the Queen's show. Please remember I cannot speak for the past 5-6
years. Things may have changed.

LynnD

> From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 12:43:51 -0600
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
> 
> When you say an incredible outfit, do you mean a nobility type garment
> as opposed to the peasant type garb?  I know I can make one, as I have
> done so as a theatrical costumer on Shakespeare productions.  Do people
> other than those working the faires walk around in those types of
> costumes?
> 
> 
> On Sep 9, 2004, at 12:25 PM, Lynn Downward wrote:
> 
>> I know from experience that if you show up at the California Ren
>> faires in
>> an incredible outfit as a visitor the court people will want to get to
>> know
>> you. If you say that you're a costumer and wouldn't mind work for
>> anyone who
>> needs an outfit for next year and spread your business cards around,
>> you'll
>> probably get some work, especially if the group is organized and keep
>> a list
>> of available costumers. We tend to work inside the group (I haven't
>> worked
>> the faires for a while now, but that's what we did), but there's often
>> times
>> when the known costumers are too busy and you'll get work. Once you've
>> proven yourself by giving a wonderfully fitted, beautiful dress,
>> people will
>> remember your name and give you work.
>> 
>> LynnD
>> St. George
>> Retired, RPF-N
>> 
>> 
>>> From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
>>> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>>> Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 12:05:52 -0600
>>> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
>>> 
>>> Well, it has naturally occurred to me that I should start going to
>>> Renn
>>> Faires and I keep thinking of doing that every summer when there is
>>> one
>>> here in the Denver area.  But I guess my real questions are: 1)  does
>>> one just walk around a Renn faire in a good costume and get work?  Do
>>> people just come up to you and ask you to make them a costume?   2)
>>> If
>>> not, are there other additional ways of getting involved?  3)  What
>>> other groups are helpful to look into besides the Renn faire circuit
>>> and the SCA?
>>> 
>>> On Sep 9, 2004, at 11:36 AM, Susan Farmer wrote:
>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> How does one get into this type of sewing business?  It sounds a lot
>>>>> more lucrative than my online business which caters to the goth and
>>>>> belly dance markets.  When I started my business in about 1997 I
>>>>> thought it would eventually take off and I could live off of it but
>>>>> it
>>>>> has never progresses further than bringing me in an order about once
>>>>> every 2 weeks.  I have never been involved in Renn faires or the SCA
>>>>> or
>>>>> anything like that.  Any suggestions on where to start?
>>>> 
>>>> My guess would be to at least cultivate RenFaire or SCA clientele if
>>>> you
>>>> don't want to get involved there.  People can't use a service if they
>>>> don't
>>>> know that it exists.
>>>> 
>>>> Jerusha
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> h-costume mailing list
>>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>> 
>>> 
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 14:10:34 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] reenactment societies
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On Thu, 9 Sep 2004, Carol Mitchell wrote:

> As I'm on digest, I may have missed some replies, but do you have:
> Markland
> The Adrian Empire
> Amtgard
> The Richard III Society
> The Richard III Foundation

Thanks -- I got a couple of these by private reply, but not all.

If anyone has snail-mail addresses for these groups (or ideally their
publications) within reach, I'd be very grateful for a private email with
that info. I'm doing a lot of chasing around trying to get something
besides websites and emails.

--Robin

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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 13:10:45 -0600
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Since Renn faires are usually in the heat of the summer, how does one 
stand to spend much time walking around in court (thanks for the proper 
term) dress?

On Sep 9, 2004, at 12:53 PM, Lynn Downward wrote:

> Again, I'm only using my own experience so yes, I'm talking about court
> clothing. In the past, when we (in court) have seen visitors in 
> wonderfully
> well done court dresses, we've introduced ourselves and asked about the
> dress - who did it, where the idea came from, how they got "that bit" 
> to
> work so well, etc. If we have fewer actors than usual that day, 
> visitors
> with outstanding clothing have been invited to join our progress 
> through the
> faire to the Queen's show. Please remember I cannot speak for the past 
> 5-6
> years. Things may have changed.
>
> LynnD
>
>> From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
>> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 12:43:51 -0600
>> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
>>
>> When you say an incredible outfit, do you mean a nobility type garment
>> as opposed to the peasant type garb?  I know I can make one, as I have
>> done so as a theatrical costumer on Shakespeare productions.  Do 
>> people
>> other than those working the faires walk around in those types of
>> costumes?
>>
>>
>> On Sep 9, 2004, at 12:25 PM, Lynn Downward wrote:
>>
>>> I know from experience that if you show up at the California Ren
>>> faires in
>>> an incredible outfit as a visitor the court people will want to get 
>>> to
>>> know
>>> you. If you say that you're a costumer and wouldn't mind work for
>>> anyone who
>>> needs an outfit for next year and spread your business cards around,
>>> you'll
>>> probably get some work, especially if the group is organized and keep
>>> a list
>>> of available costumers. We tend to work inside the group (I haven't
>>> worked
>>> the faires for a while now, but that's what we did), but there's 
>>> often
>>> times
>>> when the known costumers are too busy and you'll get work. Once 
>>> you've
>>> proven yourself by giving a wonderfully fitted, beautiful dress,
>>> people will
>>> remember your name and give you work.
>>>
>>> LynnD
>>> St. George
>>> Retired, RPF-N
>>>
>>>
>>>> From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
>>>> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>>>> Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 12:05:52 -0600
>>>> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>>>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
>>>>
>>>> Well, it has naturally occurred to me that I should start going to
>>>> Renn
>>>> Faires and I keep thinking of doing that every summer when there is
>>>> one
>>>> here in the Denver area.  But I guess my real questions are: 1)  
>>>> does
>>>> one just walk around a Renn faire in a good costume and get work?  
>>>> Do
>>>> people just come up to you and ask you to make them a costume?   2)
>>>> If
>>>> not, are there other additional ways of getting involved?  3)  What
>>>> other groups are helpful to look into besides the Renn faire circuit
>>>> and the SCA?
>>>>
>>>> On Sep 9, 2004, at 11:36 AM, Susan Farmer wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> How does one get into this type of sewing business?  It sounds a 
>>>>>> lot
>>>>>> more lucrative than my online business which caters to the goth 
>>>>>> and
>>>>>> belly dance markets.  When I started my business in about 1997 I
>>>>>> thought it would eventually take off and I could live off of it 
>>>>>> but
>>>>>> it
>>>>>> has never progresses further than bringing me in an order about 
>>>>>> once
>>>>>> every 2 weeks.  I have never been involved in Renn faires or the 
>>>>>> SCA
>>>>>> or
>>>>>> anything like that.  Any suggestions on where to start?
>>>>>
>>>>> My guess would be to at least cultivate RenFaire or SCA clientele 
>>>>> if
>>>>> you
>>>>> don't want to get involved there.  People can't use a service if 
>>>>> they
>>>>> don't
>>>>> know that it exists.
>>>>>
>>>>> Jerusha
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> h-costume mailing list
>>>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> h-costume mailing list
>>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 15:12:38 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 15:07:12 -0400
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Status: RO

Hmm, current and future projects?

A nice long list, I am a procrastinator. :-)

At the present moment, I am cutting out a Burgundian gown from some very
dark blue velvet I had inherited more than 5 years ago...

Hand sewing and embellishing an Irish Inar (jacket) for my husband. (dark
olive green fulled wool with red and yellow wool accent stitching and finger
looped red wool trim)

Button loops on an orange silk 16th C Turkish coat (Coat is lined with a
striped cotton in various shades of orange, red and cream.)

Cutting out some white habotai silk for a new shirt to go with the orange
coat

Plus finishing/repairing a variety of my dance costumes, the school I am
with is having a show in September, I should probably have something new by
then.

Future projects:

I have purchased taffeta in dark blue and black for a late Cavalier, early
Baroque gown, I also have the boning for the bodice, just need to finish up
some of the other projects before I can allow myself to start another one.
:-)

A variety of banners for the next years events.

This list is actually a lot longer, but this is what I am focusing on at the
moment...

Sheridan


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 15:17:01 2004
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Subject: [h-cost] sewing commissions was current and future work?
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Hi! Well, I guess the first thing to do is Make costumes for your friends who participate in the forums you are aiming for.  Get your stuff out for the folks to see...make sure they look great, wear well and can hold up to heavy wear and tear.
I actually got into the commissions business by *accident* and I certainly don't know how long it will last, either.  I just love to sew costumes (including the handsewing) and if people want me to spend their money to do what I love...I'll gladly help them!  I am really good at helping my friends spend their money..on fabrics and stuff! *LOL!*
But seriously, I had to sell alot of my "old/used" garb to raise money and sold much of what I had in the price range from $25 to $150. And I was actually very surprised my gowns really *did* fit other ladies with little or no alterations, no matter what body type they were.  Many of the gowns I've sold are for tourney wear, but they look like you could wear it to court. Typically it's well known that the things I make are *usually* machine wash and dry...And the one thing I kept hearing not only from the ladies who bought my old garb, but from the new clients: they'd seen my work and think that my work was beautiful.  I certainly won't argue with that!
Plus the fact I've always been a fanatic about costuming in all areas researching and then using period techniques and materials almost always.  When I can't use period techniques and materials, I try for the most authentic appearance.  My friends have told me that I have a big reputation for being a really nutty costumer who researches the garb before making them and can make the garb quickly and well-made... I don't know where they got the idea that I'm nutty....*grin*!
--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 
Emer's Needle Wares


-------------- Original message -------------- 

> Well, it has naturally occurred to me that I should start going to Renn 
> Faires and I keep thinking of doing that every summer when there is one 
> here in the Denver area. But I guess my real questions are: 1) does 
> one just walk around a Renn faire in a good costume and get work? Do 
> people just come up to you and ask you to make them a costume? 2) If 
> not, are there other additional ways of getting involved? 3) What 
> other groups are helpful to look into besides the Renn faire circuit 
> and the SCA? 
> 
> On Sep 9, 2004, at 11:36 AM, Susan Farmer wrote: 
> 
> >> 
> >> How does one get into this type of sewing business? It sounds a lot 
> >> more lucrative than my online business which caters to the goth and 
> >> belly dance markets. When I started my business in about 1997 I 
> >> thought it would eventually take off and I could live off of it but it 
> >> has never progresses further than bringing me in an order about once 
> >> every 2 weeks. I have never been involved in Renn faires or the SCA 
> >> or 
> >> anything like that. Any suggestions on where to start? 
> > 
> > My guess would be to at least cultivate RenFaire or SCA clientele if 
> > you 
> > don't want to get involved there. People can't use a service if they 
> > don't 
> > know that it exists. 
> > 
> > Jerusha 
> > _______________________________________________ 
> > h-costume mailing list 
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
> > 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
_______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 15:23:22 2004
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 12:22:02 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
To: h costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Joan, Chris, pop in here any time before or whnever I say something that
isn't currently acurate.

(chuckle) LOTS of water, staying in shade as much as possible, good fitting
(read non-chafing) clothing, no running -- with or without scissors, and
most importantly of all, natural fabrics. You know all this already, I'm
sure. A lightweight wool will always be more comfortable than a polyblend
anything. I like silk chemises, but others swear that linen is cooler than
silk. Either one is actually cooler than cotton, I've found.

And like any historic or centemporary outfit, cheap trim or fabric will make
well-made clothing look like trash. Don't skimp.

Please remember I'm talking about Northern California during its hottest
time of the year. The clothing I'm talking about is also the flashiest at
the faire and given the most scrunity. It will weigh upwards of 25 pounds.

LynnD

> From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 13:10:45 -0600
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
> 
> Since Renn faires are usually in the heat of the summer, how does one
> stand to spend much time walking around in court (thanks for the proper
> term) dress?
> 
> On Sep 9, 2004, at 12:53 PM, Lynn Downward wrote:
> 
>> Again, I'm only using my own experience so yes, I'm talking about court
>> clothing. In the past, when we (in court) have seen visitors in
>> wonderfully
>> well done court dresses, we've introduced ourselves and asked about the
>> dress - who did it, where the idea came from, how they got "that bit"
>> to
>> work so well, etc. If we have fewer actors than usual that day,
>> visitors
>> with outstanding clothing have been invited to join our progress
>> through the
>> faire to the Queen's show. Please remember I cannot speak for the past
>> 5-6
>> years. Things may have changed.
>> 
>> LynnD
>> 
>>> From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
>>> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>>> Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 12:43:51 -0600
>>> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
>>> 
>>> When you say an incredible outfit, do you mean a nobility type garment
>>> as opposed to the peasant type garb?  I know I can make one, as I have
>>> done so as a theatrical costumer on Shakespeare productions.  Do
>>> people
>>> other than those working the faires walk around in those types of
>>> costumes?
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Sep 9, 2004, at 12:25 PM, Lynn Downward wrote:
>>> 
>>>> I know from experience that if you show up at the California Ren
>>>> faires in
>>>> an incredible outfit as a visitor the court people will want to get
>>>> to
>>>> know
>>>> you. If you say that you're a costumer and wouldn't mind work for
>>>> anyone who
>>>> needs an outfit for next year and spread your business cards around,
>>>> you'll
>>>> probably get some work, especially if the group is organized and keep
>>>> a list
>>>> of available costumers. We tend to work inside the group (I haven't
>>>> worked
>>>> the faires for a while now, but that's what we did), but there's
>>>> often
>>>> times
>>>> when the known costumers are too busy and you'll get work. Once
>>>> you've
>>>> proven yourself by giving a wonderfully fitted, beautiful dress,
>>>> people will
>>>> remember your name and give you work.
>>>> 
>>>> LynnD
>>>> St. George
>>>> Retired, RPF-N
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>>> From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
>>>>> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>>>>> Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 12:05:52 -0600
>>>>> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>>>>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
>>>>> 
>>>>> Well, it has naturally occurred to me that I should start going to
>>>>> Renn
>>>>> Faires and I keep thinking of doing that every summer when there is
>>>>> one
>>>>> here in the Denver area.  But I guess my real questions are: 1)
>>>>> does
>>>>> one just walk around a Renn faire in a good costume and get work?
>>>>> Do
>>>>> people just come up to you and ask you to make them a costume?   2)
>>>>> If
>>>>> not, are there other additional ways of getting involved?  3)  What
>>>>> other groups are helpful to look into besides the Renn faire circuit
>>>>> and the SCA?
>>>>> 
>>>>> On Sep 9, 2004, at 11:36 AM, Susan Farmer wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> How does one get into this type of sewing business?  It sounds a
>>>>>>> lot
>>>>>>> more lucrative than my online business which caters to the goth
>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>> belly dance markets.  When I started my business in about 1997 I
>>>>>>> thought it would eventually take off and I could live off of it
>>>>>>> but
>>>>>>> it
>>>>>>> has never progresses further than bringing me in an order about
>>>>>>> once
>>>>>>> every 2 weeks.  I have never been involved in Renn faires or the
>>>>>>> SCA
>>>>>>> or
>>>>>>> anything like that.  Any suggestions on where to start?
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> My guess would be to at least cultivate RenFaire or SCA clientele
>>>>>> if
>>>>>> you
>>>>>> don't want to get involved there.  People can't use a service if
>>>>>> they
>>>>>> don't
>>>>>> know that it exists.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Jerusha
>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>> h-costume mailing list
>>>>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>>>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> h-costume mailing list
>>>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> _______________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 20:27:59 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Women/girls and pants (WAS: Re: [h-cost] 19th century underwear)
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A point I always like to keep in mind when discussing modesty and women 
and trousers (pants):  remember in large parts of the world trousers are 
traditional for women, and men wear long robes.

If it's about Orthodox Jewish custom, what were they wearing in the 
Middle East in Old Testament times?  I'm just wondering, if the sects 
are interpreting something in scripture that says "Women should not 
dress like men", what did the scripture actually mean?  Wouldn't it be 
ironic if it meant "Women should wear trousers and not go bare-legged 
under a floor-length skirt-shaped garment".

Jean


Brenda Bell <webwarren@earthlink.net> wrote
>In the early '70's, when pants for girls was already pretty much 
>accepted/acceptable in the public schools, one of my neighbors sent 
>their daughter to the local Orthodox Yeshiva for her first year of 
>Junior High. I don't remember all the details, but it was either that 
>the girls didn't have gym at all, or they had a rather limited/modified 
>PE curriculum conducted with them wearing dresses/skirts, because it 
>was immodest (not to mention "cross-dressing") for a woman to wear 
>pants, and it would have been VERY immodest for the girls' underwear to 
>be showing. (Interestingly enough, this issue did NOT seem to exist for 
>the summer camp they ran, which I attended one year as a child:  both 
>the girls and the female counselors had no issues whatsoever with 
>wearing shorts, and since this was before "Daisy Dukes", there really 
>wasn't a modesty problem with one's shorts showing one's underwear -- 
>or lack thereof.)
>
>Except for that summer camp, it wasn't until I got to University in the 
>late '70's that I knew any Orthodox girls/women who would wear pants 
>for any reason (usually to their lab classes, for practical reasons). 
>As long as the pants were purchased in the women's departments 
>(Junior/Miss/Women's/etc.) they were fine. OTOH, to this day I don't 
>think I have EVER seen a Chassidic women (of any of several Chassidic 
>sects) wearing pants...
>
>Hmm... a thought... considering that a lot of modern Chassidic dress 
>(especially for the men) is considered to have been taken (and not much 
>modified) from the styles that were current to the areas of Eastern 
>Europe from which those sects arose, how closely related is Chassidic 
>dress to historical dress/costume? (Has anyone really done a comparison 
>of current and when-founded styles of the various Chassidic sects?)
>
>
>
>Brenda
>webwarren@earthlink.net
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing commissions was current and future work?
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 14:13:30 -0600
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I dont have any friends who are into anything that is connected with 
wearing costumes.  Guess I just need to go to the next renn faire, but 
that isnt until next summer.  Are there other events to attend during 
the off seasons?

On Sep 9, 2004, at 1:15 PM, gia_gavino@comcast.net wrote:

> Hi! Well, I guess the first thing to do is Make costumes for your 
> friends who participate in the forums you are aiming for.  Get your 
> stuff out for the folks to see...make sure they look great, wear well 
> and can hold up to heavy wear and tear.
> I actually got into the commissions business by *accident* and I 
> certainly don't know how long it will last, either.  I just love to 
> sew costumes (including the handsewing) and if people want me to spend 
> their money to do what I love...I'll gladly help them!  I am really 
> good at helping my friends spend their money..on fabrics and stuff! 
> *LOL!*
> But seriously, I had to sell alot of my "old/used" garb to raise money 
> and sold much of what I had in the price range from $25 to $150. And I 
> was actually very surprised my gowns really *did* fit other ladies 
> with little or no alterations, no matter what body type they were.  
> Many of the gowns I've sold are for tourney wear, but they look like 
> you could wear it to court. Typically it's well known that the things 
> I make are *usually* machine wash and dry...And the one thing I kept 
> hearing not only from the ladies who bought my old garb, but from the 
> new clients: they'd seen my work and think that my work was beautiful. 
>  I certainly won't argue with that!
> Plus the fact I've always been a fanatic about costuming in all areas 
> researching and then using period techniques and materials almost 
> always.  When I can't use period techniques and materials, I try for 
> the most authentic appearance.  My friends have told me that I have a 
> big reputation for being a really nutty costumer who researches the 
> garb before making them and can make the garb quickly and well-made... 
> I don't know where they got the idea that I'm nutty....*grin*!
> --
> Slan go foill
> Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri
> Emer's Needle Wares
>
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
>
>> Well, it has naturally occurred to me that I should start going to 
>> Renn
>> Faires and I keep thinking of doing that every summer when there is 
>> one
>> here in the Denver area. But I guess my real questions are: 1) does
>> one just walk around a Renn faire in a good costume and get work? Do
>> people just come up to you and ask you to make them a costume? 2) If
>> not, are there other additional ways of getting involved? 3) What
>> other groups are helpful to look into besides the Renn faire circuit
>> and the SCA?
>>
>> On Sep 9, 2004, at 11:36 AM, Susan Farmer wrote:
>>
>>>>
>>>> How does one get into this type of sewing business? It sounds a lot
>>>> more lucrative than my online business which caters to the goth and
>>>> belly dance markets. When I started my business in about 1997 I
>>>> thought it would eventually take off and I could live off of it but 
>>>> it
>>>> has never progresses further than bringing me in an order about once
>>>> every 2 weeks. I have never been involved in Renn faires or the SCA
>>>> or
>>>> anything like that. Any suggestions on where to start?
>>>
>>> My guess would be to at least cultivate RenFaire or SCA clientele if
>>> you
>>> don't want to get involved there. People can't use a service if they
>>> don't
>>> know that it exists.
>>>
>>> Jerusha
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>
>>
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
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Status: RO

Sounds like torture.  Can one still have fun dressed like that?

On Sep 9, 2004, at 1:22 PM, Lynn Downward wrote:

> Joan, Chris, pop in here any time before or whnever I say something 
> that
> isn't currently acurate.
>
> (chuckle) LOTS of water, staying in shade as much as possible, good 
> fitting
> (read non-chafing) clothing, no running -- with or without scissors, 
> and
> most importantly of all, natural fabrics. You know all this already, 
> I'm
> sure. A lightweight wool will always be more comfortable than a 
> polyblend
> anything. I like silk chemises, but others swear that linen is cooler 
> than
> silk. Either one is actually cooler than cotton, I've found.
>
> And like any historic or centemporary outfit, cheap trim or fabric 
> will make
> well-made clothing look like trash. Don't skimp.
>
> Please remember I'm talking about Northern California during its 
> hottest
> time of the year. The clothing I'm talking about is also the flashiest 
> at
> the faire and given the most scrunity. It will weigh upwards of 25 
> pounds.
>
> LynnD
>
>> From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
>> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 13:10:45 -0600
>> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
>>
>> Since Renn faires are usually in the heat of the summer, how does one
>> stand to spend much time walking around in court (thanks for the 
>> proper
>> term) dress?
>>
>> On Sep 9, 2004, at 12:53 PM, Lynn Downward wrote:
>>
>>> Again, I'm only using my own experience so yes, I'm talking about 
>>> court
>>> clothing. In the past, when we (in court) have seen visitors in
>>> wonderfully
>>> well done court dresses, we've introduced ourselves and asked about 
>>> the
>>> dress - who did it, where the idea came from, how they got "that bit"
>>> to
>>> work so well, etc. If we have fewer actors than usual that day,
>>> visitors
>>> with outstanding clothing have been invited to join our progress
>>> through the
>>> faire to the Queen's show. Please remember I cannot speak for the 
>>> past
>>> 5-6
>>> years. Things may have changed.
>>>
>>> LynnD
>>>
>>>> From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
>>>> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>>>> Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 12:43:51 -0600
>>>> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>>>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
>>>>
>>>> When you say an incredible outfit, do you mean a nobility type 
>>>> garment
>>>> as opposed to the peasant type garb?  I know I can make one, as I 
>>>> have
>>>> done so as a theatrical costumer on Shakespeare productions.  Do
>>>> people
>>>> other than those working the faires walk around in those types of
>>>> costumes?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Sep 9, 2004, at 12:25 PM, Lynn Downward wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I know from experience that if you show up at the California Ren
>>>>> faires in
>>>>> an incredible outfit as a visitor the court people will want to get
>>>>> to
>>>>> know
>>>>> you. If you say that you're a costumer and wouldn't mind work for
>>>>> anyone who
>>>>> needs an outfit for next year and spread your business cards 
>>>>> around,
>>>>> you'll
>>>>> probably get some work, especially if the group is organized and 
>>>>> keep
>>>>> a list
>>>>> of available costumers. We tend to work inside the group (I haven't
>>>>> worked
>>>>> the faires for a while now, but that's what we did), but there's
>>>>> often
>>>>> times
>>>>> when the known costumers are too busy and you'll get work. Once
>>>>> you've
>>>>> proven yourself by giving a wonderfully fitted, beautiful dress,
>>>>> people will
>>>>> remember your name and give you work.
>>>>>
>>>>> LynnD
>>>>> St. George
>>>>> Retired, RPF-N
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
>>>>>> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>>>>>> Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 12:05:52 -0600
>>>>>> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>>>>>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Well, it has naturally occurred to me that I should start going to
>>>>>> Renn
>>>>>> Faires and I keep thinking of doing that every summer when there 
>>>>>> is
>>>>>> one
>>>>>> here in the Denver area.  But I guess my real questions are: 1)
>>>>>> does
>>>>>> one just walk around a Renn faire in a good costume and get work?
>>>>>> Do
>>>>>> people just come up to you and ask you to make them a costume?   
>>>>>> 2)
>>>>>> If
>>>>>> not, are there other additional ways of getting involved?  3)  
>>>>>> What
>>>>>> other groups are helpful to look into besides the Renn faire 
>>>>>> circuit
>>>>>> and the SCA?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Sep 9, 2004, at 11:36 AM, Susan Farmer wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> How does one get into this type of sewing business?  It sounds a
>>>>>>>> lot
>>>>>>>> more lucrative than my online business which caters to the goth
>>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>>> belly dance markets.  When I started my business in about 1997 I
>>>>>>>> thought it would eventually take off and I could live off of it
>>>>>>>> but
>>>>>>>> it
>>>>>>>> has never progresses further than bringing me in an order about
>>>>>>>> once
>>>>>>>> every 2 weeks.  I have never been involved in Renn faires or the
>>>>>>>> SCA
>>>>>>>> or
>>>>>>>> anything like that.  Any suggestions on where to start?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> My guess would be to at least cultivate RenFaire or SCA clientele
>>>>>>> if
>>>>>>> you
>>>>>>> don't want to get involved there.  People can't use a service if
>>>>>>> they
>>>>>>> don't
>>>>>>> know that it exists.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Jerusha
>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>>> h-costume mailing list
>>>>>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>>>>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>> h-costume mailing list
>>>>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>>>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> h-costume mailing list
>>>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> h-costume mailing list
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>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
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>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>
>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>,
        Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing commissions was current and future work?
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 20:27:59 +0000
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Hmmm.  I'm sorry, I don't know much more than what I've already shared.  Maybe others on the H-List can help you....Good luck!  
--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 
Emer's Needle Wares


-------------- Original message -------------- 

> I dont have any friends who are into anything that is connected with 
> wearing costumes. Guess I just need to go to the next renn faire, but 
> that isnt until next summer. Are there other events to attend during 
> the off seasons? 
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 14:03:37 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
To: h costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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For more than twenty years it was fun. Most of my friends were there, the
show-and-tell quality of a full Elizabethan court dress is immense, my
daughters were born into a very large family. I wanted to teach and never
was able to finish the schooling, so a faire is a great place to teach
living history - spinning, dyeing, history, politics, hand work. I'm a good
actor but a lousy line memorizer, so the improvizational theater style (some
have called it guerilla theater) of a faire is just perfect for my
abilities. When it stopped being fun, the torture part suddenly made itself
known. It was too hot and the clothing too heavy and the commitment too much
for me to continue. Each person finds their limit. And, of course, that's
true with everything.

LynnD 



> From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 14:14:30 -0600
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
> 
> Sounds like torture.  Can one still have fun dressed like that?
> 
> On Sep 9, 2004, at 1:22 PM, Lynn Downward wrote:
> 
>> Joan, Chris, pop in here any time before or whnever I say something
>> that
>> isn't currently acurate.
>> 
>> (chuckle) LOTS of water, staying in shade as much as possible, good
>> fitting
>> (read non-chafing) clothing, no running -- with or without scissors,
>> and
>> most importantly of all, natural fabrics. You know all this already,
>> I'm
>> sure. A lightweight wool will always be more comfortable than a
>> polyblend
>> anything. I like silk chemises, but others swear that linen is cooler
>> than
>> silk. Either one is actually cooler than cotton, I've found.
>> 
>> And like any historic or centemporary outfit, cheap trim or fabric
>> will make
>> well-made clothing look like trash. Don't skimp.
>> 
>> Please remember I'm talking about Northern California during its
>> hottest
>> time of the year. The clothing I'm talking about is also the flashiest
>> at
>> the faire and given the most scrunity. It will weigh upwards of 25
>> pounds.
>> 
>> LynnD
>> 
>>> From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
>>> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>>> Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 13:10:45 -0600
>>> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
>>> 
>>> Since Renn faires are usually in the heat of the summer, how does one
>>> stand to spend much time walking around in court (thanks for the
>>> proper
>>> term) dress?
>>> 
>>> On Sep 9, 2004, at 12:53 PM, Lynn Downward wrote:
>>> 
>>>> Again, I'm only using my own experience so yes, I'm talking about
>>>> court
>>>> clothing. In the past, when we (in court) have seen visitors in
>>>> wonderfully
>>>> well done court dresses, we've introduced ourselves and asked about
>>>> the
>>>> dress - who did it, where the idea came from, how they got "that bit"
>>>> to
>>>> work so well, etc. If we have fewer actors than usual that day,
>>>> visitors
>>>> with outstanding clothing have been invited to join our progress
>>>> through the
>>>> faire to the Queen's show. Please remember I cannot speak for the
>>>> past
>>>> 5-6
>>>> years. Things may have changed.
>>>> 
>>>> LynnD
>>>> 
>>>>> From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
>>>>> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>>>>> Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 12:43:51 -0600
>>>>> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>>>>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
>>>>> 
>>>>> When you say an incredible outfit, do you mean a nobility type
>>>>> garment
>>>>> as opposed to the peasant type garb?  I know I can make one, as I
>>>>> have
>>>>> done so as a theatrical costumer on Shakespeare productions.  Do
>>>>> people
>>>>> other than those working the faires walk around in those types of
>>>>> costumes?
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> On Sep 9, 2004, at 12:25 PM, Lynn Downward wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>>> I know from experience that if you show up at the California Ren
>>>>>> faires in
>>>>>> an incredible outfit as a visitor the court people will want to get
>>>>>> to
>>>>>> know
>>>>>> you. If you say that you're a costumer and wouldn't mind work for
>>>>>> anyone who
>>>>>> needs an outfit for next year and spread your business cards
>>>>>> around,
>>>>>> you'll
>>>>>> probably get some work, especially if the group is organized and
>>>>>> keep
>>>>>> a list
>>>>>> of available costumers. We tend to work inside the group (I haven't
>>>>>> worked
>>>>>> the faires for a while now, but that's what we did), but there's
>>>>>> often
>>>>>> times
>>>>>> when the known costumers are too busy and you'll get work. Once
>>>>>> you've
>>>>>> proven yourself by giving a wonderfully fitted, beautiful dress,
>>>>>> people will
>>>>>> remember your name and give you work.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> LynnD
>>>>>> St. George
>>>>>> Retired, RPF-N
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
>>>>>>> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>>>>>>> Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 12:05:52 -0600
>>>>>>> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>>>>>>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Well, it has naturally occurred to me that I should start going to
>>>>>>> Renn
>>>>>>> Faires and I keep thinking of doing that every summer when there
>>>>>>> is
>>>>>>> one
>>>>>>> here in the Denver area.  But I guess my real questions are: 1)
>>>>>>> does
>>>>>>> one just walk around a Renn faire in a good costume and get work?
>>>>>>> Do
>>>>>>> people just come up to you and ask you to make them a costume?
>>>>>>> 2)
>>>>>>> If
>>>>>>> not, are there other additional ways of getting involved?  3)
>>>>>>> What
>>>>>>> other groups are helpful to look into besides the Renn faire
>>>>>>> circuit
>>>>>>> and the SCA?
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> On Sep 9, 2004, at 11:36 AM, Susan Farmer wrote:
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> How does one get into this type of sewing business?  It sounds a
>>>>>>>>> lot
>>>>>>>>> more lucrative than my online business which caters to the goth
>>>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>>>> belly dance markets.  When I started my business in about 1997 I
>>>>>>>>> thought it would eventually take off and I could live off of it
>>>>>>>>> but
>>>>>>>>> it
>>>>>>>>> has never progresses further than bringing me in an order about
>>>>>>>>> once
>>>>>>>>> every 2 weeks.  I have never been involved in Renn faires or the
>>>>>>>>> SCA
>>>>>>>>> or
>>>>>>>>> anything like that.  Any suggestions on where to start?
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> My guess would be to at least cultivate RenFaire or SCA clientele
>>>>>>>> if
>>>>>>>> you
>>>>>>>> don't want to get involved there.  People can't use a service if
>>>>>>>> they
>>>>>>>> don't
>>>>>>>> know that it exists.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Jerusha
>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>>>> h-costume mailing list
>>>>>>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>>>>>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
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>>>>>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>>>>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>> h-costume mailing list
>>>>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>>>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> h-costume mailing list
>>>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> _______________________________________________
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>>>> 
>>> 
>>> _______________________________________________
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>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
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> 
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 14:04:20 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing commissions was current and future work?
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
To: h costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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It would help if the list knew where you are so they can tell you what's
near you.

LynnD


> From: <gia_gavino@comcast.net>
> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 20:27:59 +0000
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>, Historical Costume
> <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing commissions was current and future work?
> 
> Hmmm.  I'm sorry, I don't know much more than what I've already shared.  Maybe
> others on the H-List can help you....Good luck!
> --
> Slan go foill 
> Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri
> Emer's Needle Wares
> 
> 
> -------------- Original message --------------
> 
>> I dont have any friends who are into anything that is connected with
>> wearing costumes. Guess I just need to go to the next renn faire, but
>> that isnt until next summer. Are there other events to attend during
>> the off seasons?
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume



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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New McCall's patterns
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AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

>Every time I try to go to www.McCalls.com, I get a "Website not responding" 
>prompt. So I got on Netscape to try it and there I get "Request refused from 
>site".
>
>  
>
Try this.
http://www.mccall.com

Lead me right to it.
Di

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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing commissions was current and future work?
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 15:55:41 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Sure.  I'm in beautiful Boulder, Colorado, 28  square miles surrounded 
by reality.

On Sep 9, 2004, at 3:04 PM, Lynn Downward wrote:

> It would help if the list knew where you are so they can tell you 
> what's
> near you.
>
> LynnD
>
>
>> From: <gia_gavino@comcast.net>
>> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 20:27:59 +0000
>> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>, Historical Costume
>> <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing commissions was current and future work?
>>
>> Hmmm.  I'm sorry, I don't know much more than what I've already 
>> shared.  Maybe
>> others on the H-List can help you....Good luck!
>> --
>> Slan go foill
>> Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri
>> Emer's Needle Wares
>>
>>
>> -------------- Original message --------------
>>
>>> I dont have any friends who are into anything that is connected with
>>> wearing costumes. Guess I just need to go to the next renn faire, but
>>> that isnt until next summer. Are there other events to attend during
>>> the off seasons?
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 15:08:12 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: rag doll prices (was RE: [h-cost] current and future work?
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>* I have orders to fill for two rag-dolls (the first I've made for
>paying customers in over 8 years and my prices hadn't been upped in over
>ten years then so I have *no* idea what to charge for the things now!!!)
>The customers who ordered them don't seem to mind but I don't want to
>overcharge them and I don't want the final price to come as a shock
>(there's a lot of hand-work on them, I fabric paint then embroider over
>the faces, hand sew all the hair on and hand finish the clothes).

Check out the Cloth Doll Connection, for prices the various doll artists 
charge.  This will give you a high-end 
mark.  http://www.clothdollconnection.com

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
             ////-@@\\\
            ((((   7 )))
             (((  <> ))))
                )   ((((((
           /----\   /---\))

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So I got a reply. Maybe if enough of us inquire they will look chances of a sideless surcoat pattern next year.:)

De

-----Original Message-----
From: Susan Fleck [mailto:SFleck@Simplicity.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2004 2:41 PM
To: 'otsisto@socket.net'
Subject: RE: 8725


Hello,
Thank you for writing! Unfortunately, we cannot accommodate your request for
discontinued pattern 8725, as we have no inventory of this pattern.  Please
keep checking our catalogs,as new designs are frequently added. At the
current time we do not have plans to bring this back out though we will keep
it in consideration in future planning.

Thank you for taking the time to write to us and for your continued interest
in Simplicity Patterns.  We are sorry were unable to help you.




Sue Fleck,
Consumer Relations Manager (Simplicity, New Look)
Toll free line 888-588-2700
Fax 269-687-1500
Mailing Address:
Simplicity Patterns
Consumer Relations
901 Wayne St
Niles, MI  49121

Sign up now for your Simplicity E-Mail Newsletter: just click at the top on
"Email Signup" at www.Simplicity.com. You'll be the first to see the new
designs or learn about Fashion and Home Decor news.  

> **Thank you for contacting Simplicity. If you reply to this please attach
any previous correspondence.
> 
> 


-----Original Message-----
From: otsisto@socket.net [mailto:otsisto@socket.net]
Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2004 1:41 AM
To: info@simplicity.com
Subject: 8725


 I was wondering if there was a way for you to bring back pattern #8725 or a
version of it, perhaps with a trainless option and button or lace up the
front options. Presently there is only one other pattern source for this
style of dress and it is an small independent company that unless you have
web access or are lucky enough to find a "merchant" at a medieval faire
selling the pattern you can't get it. On a historical costuming list that I
am on there has been quite a few individuals asking for this pattern.

Thank you,
De Givens
                     


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Another reply.

De

-----Original Message-----
From: Susan Fleck [mailto:SFleck@Simplicity.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2004 2:42 PM
To: 'otsisto@socket.net'
Subject: RE: #9633


Thank you for writing. We have a few remaining copies of this discontinued
pattern in size AA only. The cost is $13.95, plus $1.50 U. S. shipping.
Copies are available 1st come 1st serve. If you would like to order this the
ordering information is below. At this time we do not have plans to bring
this back out.
Simplicity Pattern Company, Consumer Relations
901 Wayne Street * Niles, MI 49121

Print and complete this form to order a current or discontinued pattern

Pattern request #:  __________			Size:  AA(SML)    __________

The pattern you are requesting is available!

Price:  __________	*Shipping:  __________	Total:  __________

Please Print:

Name:________________________________________________________
Address:______________________________________________________
City:__________________	State:________________   Zip:__________
Phone #:	Area code:______	______  ______

*You may send us a check or money order  we also accept Visa or
MasterCard

Charge card # _______________________________________________
Expiration date _____________________

Mail to:
Simplicity Pattern Co.
Consumer Relations Dept.
901 Wayne Street
Niles, MI  49121

To charge by phone, please call toll free:  888-588-2700
If all lines are busy be prepared to leave information on our voice mail
system:
Please speak clearly and slowly - spell your name - leave your complete
address - spell all words in your address - leave credit card number and
expiration date.
Please remember to include pattern number and size when ordering.


**PLACE A CATALOG ORDER AND RECEIVE THIS PATTERN FREE!
SIMPLICITY COMPLETE PATTERN CATALOG
ONLY $20.00 FOR ONE ISSUE !
JUST MAIL THIS FORM BACK WITH YOUR CHECK OR MONEY ORDER AND WITHIN 2-3
WEEKS YOU WILL RECEIVE YOUR CATALOG.  YOUR PATTERN WILL ARRIVE WITHIN
7-10 WORKING DAYS.
ENJOY HAVING YOUR OWN CATALOG AT HOME!
CHECK HERE (___) TO TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THIS SPECIAL OFFER.

*Shipping cost are for U.S. residents only, please contact our office
for further shipping information.
**Catalog offer available only in the U.S.
*





Sue Fleck,
Consumer Relations Manager (Simplicity, New Look)
Toll free line 888-588-2700
Fax 269-687-1500
Mailing Address:
Simplicity Patterns
Consumer Relations
901 Wayne St
Niles, MI  49121

Sign up now for your Simplicity E-Mail Newsletter: just click at the top on
"Email Signup" at www.Simplicity.com. You'll be the first to see the new
designs or learn about Fashion and Home Decor news.  

> **Thank you for contacting Simplicity. If you reply to this please attach
any previous correspondence.
> 
> 


-----Original Message-----
From: otsisto@socket.net [mailto:otsisto@socket.net]
Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2004 1:44 AM
To: info@simplicity.com
Subject: #9633


Was wondering if you could bring back this pattern or possibly a revamp of
it.
Thank you,
De Givens                      


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*sigh*  cat on keyboard

>
> > I can't speak to the getting arrested part; but as late as the 1960's
> there
> > were girls at my high school (class of 1971) that wore dresses in gym
> class
> > because they wouldn't wear pants or even shorts.  They weren't Mennonite,
> > but it was some religious denominational rule.
>
> My sister went to school with a girl who belonged to the Assembly of God
> church and she was not allowed to wear pants or shorts.
>
> Dianne
>
>

That could be it.  

Susan

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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historic Costume" <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2004 3:38 PM
Subject: [h-cost] FW: 8725


So I got a reply. Maybe if enough of us inquire they will look chances of a
sideless surcoat pattern next year.:)

De

Sent my letter off.  When my daughter moved out she took the last copy of
this pattern I had.

Brin Kendall

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From: Ms Cynthia Schrage <pioneercynthia@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] New Member/Bookshelf
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Hello all,

I'm new to this group, and have been lurking for about
a week. It's been very interesting (i.e., pads) and
inspiring (the embroidered silk wedding dress).

I am "clothing" a group of women for a re-enactment
set in America in 1845, and another bunch for another
re-enactment set in 1853. 

My question is: what are the books you all would
recommend most? Both books of a general nature and
more period specific ones...

Thanks for the input.
Your Obedient Servant,
Cynthia


		
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On Thursday 09 September 2004 5:27 am, Lena Strid wrote:
[snip]

> - Make a 10th century Hedeby/Křstrup apron dress so I would more blend in
> with the Hiberno-Norse group I sometimes play with. (hmmm, need to get
> tortoise shell brooches as well...)

If you need ideas where to look for tortoise brooches, I have a list of 
favorite sites you may find useful...

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] PS on underwear
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 23:00:42 -0400
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On Thursday 09 September 2004 12:18 am, Robin Netherton wrote:
> On Wed, 8 Sep 2004, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
> > There was only one fastener at each end, though it wasn't a clip; it
> > was more like a loop with a pointed prong protruding into the middle
> > of the loop.  Sanitary pads at the time were made with a long tab
> > consisting of a long extension of the materal the pad was covered
> > with; the idea was to pull that tab through the loop and pierce it
> > with the prong inside so that it wouldn't slide the rest of the way
> > through.  Although the tabs were made of pretty tough stuff, this
> > method didn't really work very well.  :-(
>
> My goodness, I hadn't thought about those in years.

Neither had I, until this thread.  :-)

> I had forgotten about 
> that loop/prong thing. Now I remember taking the tail end of the extension
> and wrapping it back around the loop and tying a knot to keep the whole
> thing from sliding. Yes, it was a little lumpy, but it stayed put.

Usually.  Unfortunately, because of the angle of my vagina the part that would 
get the heaviest flow was about 1-2 inches farther back than the pads were 
designed to handle, so I would always have to shove the pad backward once I 
got it hooked up, which the belt system didn't deal with well, and if I did 
it too much the tabs would start to tear....


> I also remember the ads in girls' magazines (like Seventeen or American
> Girl) written like little comic strips:
>  "Hey, Sue, wearing your slinky new dress to the dance?"
>  "I can't. It's that time of the month, and every outline will show."
>  "Haven't you tried these new tampons? Designed just for teens like us! No
> bulky applicators!"
>  [Last panel, of course, Sue is wearing her slinky new dress and singing
> the praises of the tampons...]

I was deterred by the propaganda of the time that only females who had had 
intercourse should use tampons.  (Perhaps because I didn't read Seventeen 
when I was in the age group it targets.)  :-)

Now I guess we'd all better return to costuming topics.  :-)


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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From: "Carolann Schmitt" <cschmitt@genteelarts.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] PS on underwear
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 23:12:54 -0400
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To help return the thread on mid-19th century undergarments and sanitary
protection to a costume-related theme:

There is a patent illustration in "Victorians Unbuttoned: Registered Designs
for Clothing, their Makers and Wearers, 1839-1900" by Sarah Levitt of a
'ladies belt'.  The patent is registered by Theresa Lawrence, Ludgate Hill,
City, 1849.  The belt is made "in red and blue silk with chamois leather
pads at the hips and under the toggle towel fastenings to prevent chafing.
[The belt is] adjusted by a piece of elastic in the front."  

A colleague of mine, Virginia Mescher, did a presentation on sanitary
protection during the mid-19th century at a conference this summer. She has
also authored an article on the topic that will appear in a forthcoming
issue of "The Citizens' Companion".  I can provide contact information for
those who would like more information on this topic and wish to contact
Virginia directly.

Carolann Schmitt
cschmitt@genteelarts.com
www.genteelarts.com
Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 3-6, 2005  



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From: "Diane Maynard" <camelothorse@earthlink.net>
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Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 22:20:10 -0500
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I normally lurk but, would like to respond to this thread.  I live in
TEXAS-"Hot" by anyone's standards.  My persona is High Court Elizabethan and
I go to the Renaissance Festival here in FULL COURT GOWN.  I make sure that
I drink PLENTY of water throughout the day and I carry (and use) my fan.
(Why do you think they carried fans?)  I am not part of the Festival---Just
a patron but, I quite often find myself being stopped about every 10 yards
from other patrons asking me if they can take my picture.  I have often been
approached and asked how my cartridge pleating or some other technique was
done on my outfit and I carry cards with me to give out if someone wants an
outfit custom made.  Most of the merchants and actors at our Faire recognize
me and I now sew numerous outfits for them.  I have a great deal of
fun---Actually, I believe that it is more fun to go to faire in costume and
"play the part" with the actors than to just watch as a mundane.  This year,
I will be wearing my new court gown that is red and gold fleur de leis
tapestry; totally hand made and, has 12,000 pearls on it.  Believe me---I
WILL HAVE FUN !!!!!

Diane


 
Sounds like torture.  Can one still have fun dressed like that?

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Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 19:21:04 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Vanity Fair
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At 11:14 AM +1000 9/9/04, Elizabeth Walpole wrote:

>I think the bosom look is probably why they possibly didn't want somebody
>who was really skinny (Exhibit A: Gwyneth Paltrow in Emma). However, if you
>can ask an actress to put on weight for Bridget Jones' Diary why not for
>Vanity Fair. I really don't know if the pregnancy issue is really what the
>director actually wanted, especially as it's difficult (bordering on
>impossible) to insure an actress after a certain point in her pregnancy, and
>because most scenes are not shot in order the costumer would have to try to
>keep her looking the same despite her growing belly and probably her bust as
>well. If it was me I'd be asking her to put on weight, rather than asking
>her husband to try to get her pregnant (I'm not even going to start on
>what's wrong with that conversation) it's fairly easy to keep fat at a
>steady state if you can regiment how much/what they eat and how much they
>exercise. Pregnancy, on the other hand, is a constantly changing state, it's
>difficult to impossible to predict how fast or how much the body's shape
>will change (especially if this is her first child), and it's a state that
>only lasts for 9 months.

I wonder if the "pregnancy to get a Regency figure" anecdote hasn't 
possibly gotten confused along the way.  The character herself is 
pregnant for part of the movie, and I wonder if the anecdote has its 
roots in matching the actress's pregnancy to the character's 
pregnancy.  (Sure, you can use pregnancy pillows, but it's harder to 
get the body language down right.)  I could easily imagine some 
director saying to an actress, "You have to play pregnant in 10% of 
the movie, so if you were thinking of starting a kid anyway, let's 
coordinate."

Heather
-- 
****
Heather Rose Jones
heather.jones@earthlink.net
****
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At 02:14 PM 9/9/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>Sounds like torture.  Can one still have fun dressed like that?


Actually, yes. For all the stuff I write about the heat, lack of money, and 
politics, it actually is a lot of fun entertaining and educating the 
public. Also nice to walk around dressed like nobility, when most people 
are used to jeans and tees.

Faire isn't for everyone. Being in court isn't for everyone. But you don't 
have to be in court to make costumes for people.

If you are interested in making costumes for a faire, check out your local 
events. _Renaissance_ magazine lists most of the ones in the country, and 
there are lists online, although I don't know where exactly anymore. If 
there is a specialty store in your area that caters to the faire people or 
alternative religions, they may know who you can contact to get involved. 
Or ask around the computer and science people you know... so many of the 
faire people I know are computer/science geeks, and well paid ones at that. 
And as my husband will admit, he knows computers, he has no clue on 
costumes and would pay for good ones, but thankfully he has me to make them 
for him.

hth,

Kimiko

Kimiko Small
Owner ~ DreamTime Studios
http://www.dreamtime-studios.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

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At 10:08 PM 9/7/2004 +0200, you wrote:
>Hi, just curious about what your projekts will be for the next months.


Sorry this is late, catching up on older e-mails.

I have been working on my husband's Tudor doublet with attached base 
(skirt). I have the doublet body done and waiting for the trim and base. 
The full circle base will be sewn to the doublet in an organ pleat, as it 
seems most of Henry's images are done in that manner (and his fool's as 
well). I haven't done organ pleats before, but a friend showed me how and I 
have her notes.

While the base is hanging to stretch the bias, I am now working with 
polymer clay to make the jewelry pieces for my husband's hat (which has sat 
finished except for the jewels and feathers all summer.) Then after that 
hat is done:

* New linen chemise and overgown with sleeves for my 2 year old son. The 
chemise will be done before the due date, the over gown probably afterwards.
* Finish husband's sleeve lacing holes (all by hand) and matching lacing 
strip for the doublet.
* New linen chemise for me
* New farthingale, following Alcega's pattern (as explained on Drea Leeds' 
site) and using heavy hoop steel I recently got from Farthingales at 
Costume College.
* New over sleeves with matching underskirt for my blue Tudors.
* Tudor Gable headdress with polymer jewels, hopefully by due date (but low 
on priority as I already have a usable French hood.)

And then after the due date, which is Oct 1 for Hanford Faire, I have 
planned the following for the winter.
* Tudor great coat for my husband, for Kearney Faire in November and 12th 
Night events. It is otherwise way too hot for normal faire season, 
especially if trimmed with faux fur which I have somewhere.
* New corset with some steel in front.
* A few ruffs, which I hope to sell a few of them next spring.
* Completely new Elizabethan gown for myself, with bumroll, sleeves, 
underskirt, French hood, tall hat, partlet, and jewelry.
* And after all that, make Victorian outfits for myself, my husband and my 
son, and probably for a friend as well. We have a Victorian event in May. I 
may make the friend the Colonel Custer outfit I have wanted to do for him 
for some time. He's descended from the brother, and looks a lot like Custer 
in photos, or did, when his hair was long and he had a goatee.
* And if I have time, there is that Italian dress that is begging me to 
make it. I may do that instead of the full court dress, but as I do court, 
I should do the court dress. So, this dress will have to wait for more time.

And after writing all that down... whew, it's going to be a busy winter. 
But with this written down, I now know what I have to get cracking on!! At 
least the hat jewels are almost finished, and the tights are on order.

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Owner ~ DreamTime Studios
http://www.dreamtime-studios.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

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From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
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At 02:03 PM 9/9/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>When it stopped being fun, the torture part suddenly made itself
>known. It was too hot and the clothing too heavy and the commitment too much
>for me to continue. Each person finds their limit. And, of course, that's
>true with everything.
>
>LynnD


I hear that LynnD. I left faire for about five years and only recently 
returned... to join court of all groups. I used to do Scots before, and the 
dress, while linen & wool, was a lot cooler.

You have to decide your priorities when you join faire. I wanted a place to 
enjoy my costuming work, and a group of people who I can call friends and 
do something with them that is enjoyable. I chose to do only 4-5 faire 
weekends, spread from March to November, and try to minimize the political 
connections. I keep the mantra, "if it isn't fun, don't do it" at the back 
of my head to remind me that faire is supposed to be fun, and it is. So 
long as it is fun for me, then I will continue to deal with the issues of 
setup, tear down, and getting into heavy costumes. When it is no longer 
fun, I will either fix what I am doing wrong, or leave again. And in all 
cases, my family comes first.

And speaking of which, back to my son and his bath time...

Kimiko

Kimiko Small
Owner ~ DreamTime Studios
http://www.dreamtime-studios.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

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At 12:05 PM 9/9/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>Well, it has naturally occurred to me that I should start going to Renn 
>Faires and I keep thinking of doing that every summer when there is one 
>here in the Denver area.  But I guess my real questions are: 1)  does one 
>just walk around a Renn faire in a good costume and get work?  Do people 
>just come up to you and ask you to make them a costume?   2)  If not, are 
>there other additional ways of getting involved?  3)  What other groups 
>are helpful to look into besides the Renn faire circuit and the SCA?


#1 & #2, Well, it can happen. I walked around last year at a faire, and a 
woman wanted to hire me to make her daughter's wedding outfit. But I didn't 
have a business then, and she wanted the full dress in just a couple of 
months, and I can't work that quick so I had to recommend her to a friend. 
But that's why I am working hard on making great outfits for me and my 
family to wear while we walk around faire, because we are walking 
billboards for my work.

I have done faires for many years (since 1987) and yet, my own business 
hasn't taken off. Then again, I am not trying that hard to recruit business 
because for me I have limited time right now. My focus is going to be in 
things I can make relatively quickly, until my son is in 
preschool/kindergarten. He's my priority.

But anyways, the one problem I wanted to mention about faire people... is 
that at least around here, most are unable to pay for decent wages for 
costumers. Then again, we are at double digit unemployment, and are a low 
wage location in general. My friend who had a costume business (mainly 
rentals) had to shut her business down and find a regular job. She got a 
lot of work, but she so underpriced herself that she couldn't survive, and 
was actually making less than minimum wage (not good). Most faire people 
are college students, at least in my area. College kids don't have enough 
income to pay for your services. Even the working older adults who I know 
don't make enough money for me to make things for them (and they want to 
hire me). I have had a few good commissions at decent wages over the years, 
but they are few and far between. My area is not really the best 
financially, as most faire actors and playtrons (those who wear garb but 
pay the gate fee) are barely making ends meet financially, and can't afford 
the luxury goods. This even affects my jewelry friends who have had it 
rough the past two years. I am hoping that I will be established in a few 
years so when the economy returns, I will be able to make this business work.

Your area may be better off financially. You may also check your local SCA 
group, as my info from friends show that SCA people are more willing to pay 
for accurate historical garments. Faire people tend to not care as much, 
unless they have to follow established guidelines at the faires they 
participate in. Our Central California faire people don't have to follow 
major guidelines, so most of the kids get stuff from thrift stores and put 
together what they can, cheaply.

And one other group of under developed costumers are LARPers, Live Action 
Role Players. I used to be involved in the Camarilla, an International fan 
club of White Wolf. Some of the people were willing to invest money into 
good costumes, historical and otherwise for their characters, especially 
for a major gathering like Conclave. Ask around at local gaming stores and 
college campuses to see if there is a LARP group in your area, then let 
them know you take commissions. Not all of them are goths (I am not), but 
many costumes tend to be gothic in style.

YMMV, but I hope that helped.

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Owner ~ DreamTime Studios
http://www.dreamtime-studios.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

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Subject: [h-cost] Fwd: King Vintage Clothing Museum Grand Reopening
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Forwarded by request to those interested in vintage clothing.
~ Kimiko Small


>From: "jakenjo" <jakenjo@sti.net>
>Subject: King Vintage Clothing Museum Grand Reopening
>Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 19:00:17 -0700
>
>
>The King Vintage Museum has moved into new quarters and is having a Grand 
>Reopening on Thursday, September 16th at 5:30   pm.  The King Vintage 
>Museum is a Vintage Clothing and Lifestyle Museum that features the 
>vintage clothing collection of Barbara and Alan King of Ahwahnee, CA.  The 
>collection includes over 10,000 items of clothing and accessories dating 
>from the 1790s to the 1970s.  The current exhibit features wedding gowns 
>from the 1800s to the present.  And since we are in a new, larger building 
>we also have rooms devoted to children's clothes and toys. men's clothes 
>and a 1920s room.  We are very excited about our new facility.  There will 
>be munchies and a no host bar.  And feel free to come in costume!
>
>The museum is located in the same building as the Children's Museum of the 
>Sierra (above and behind).  The address is 49269 Golden Oak Drive, #208, 
>Oakhurst, 559-658-6999.
>
>To get there head north on Highway 41 to Oakhurst.  Go through the two 
>stoplights and turn right at the ARCO onto Golden Oak Lane and go down the 
>hill keeping to the right.  You will then see signs to the museum.
>
>Regular hours for the museum are Saturday 10:00 am - 2:00 pm and Sunday 
>1:00 - 4:00 pm.  Special Tours are available by calling 559-658-6999.
>
>I hope to see you there. - Joanne
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At 12:22 PM 9/9/2004 -0700, you wrote:
 >> Since Renn faires are usually in the heat of the summer, how does one
 >> stand to spend much time walking around in court (thanks for the proper
 >> term) dress?
<snip>
>Please remember I'm talking about Northern California during its hottest
>time of the year. The clothing I'm talking about is also the flashiest at
>the faire and given the most scrunity. It will weigh upwards of 25 pounds.
>
>LynnD


If I may LynnD, sometimes it will weigh more than 25 pds! Or at least it 
feels that way.

LynnD is well experienced in faire environment and what she says matches my 
current experience at faires.

I do Central California small faires, and we have gotten upwards of 115 
degree F. faires (I will never forget Fair Oaks that one year). It is times 
like that when you dress down as much as possible. Remove the furs, remove 
the tight sleeves, stay in the shade, and drink lots and lots of water or 
pedealite/Gatorade (electrolyte drinks). I have seen way too many people 
collapse from heat stroke over the years, even experienced veterans like 
myself. Even at the hottest faires, your health is more important than 
looking your court best. I don't know if this is the case in larger faires, 
but it is at the small ones. We all know at least one RN if not more, 
because we need to know who to fetch in case of problems.

Something some of the people have taken to are watered gel neck wraps under 
the ruffs, misters, hidden small electrical fans, even swaying to get a 
breeze under the hoopskirts to keep cool. And this all reminds me of things 
I have to mention to my next guild meeting.

hth,

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Owner ~ DreamTime Studios
http://www.dreamtime-studios.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing commissions was current and future work?
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At 02:13 PM 9/9/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>I dont have any friends who are into anything that is connected with 
>wearing costumes.  Guess I just need to go to the next renn faire, but 
>that isnt until next summer.  Are there other events to attend during the 
>off seasons?


There is 12th Night events for both faire and SCA people. That's in early 
January. There are Dickens or Victorian events for the Christmas season 
that may be happening in your area.

But usually the off season is a time to recover and enjoy the holidays, 
before getting out the costume and prop stuff you need to work on for the 
next faire season. I always take December off from faire. I needed to in 
order to remain sane.

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Owner ~ DreamTime Studios
http://www.dreamtime-studios.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 19th century underwear
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At 01:43 PM 9/9/2004 -0400, you wrote:
> > I can't speak to the getting arrested part; but as late as the 1960's
>there
> > were girls at my high school (class of 1971) that wore dresses in gym
>class
> > because they wouldn't wear pants or even shorts.  They weren't Mennonite,
> > but it was some religious denominational rule.
>
>My sister went to school with a girl who belonged to the Assembly of God
>church and she was not allowed to wear pants or shorts.
>
>Dianne


That's interesting. I was baptised Assembly of God, and I never heard of 
not wearing any shorts or pants. Must be a different area or sub-denomination.

However, my local Apostolic Church the ladies could only wear skirts, and 
wore coulottes (split skirts/pant thingy) for gym. They also couldn't wear 
jewelry that was decorative, not functional, so the ladies wore really 
expensive wedding watches instead of wedding rings.

fwiw,

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Owner ~ DreamTime Studios
http://www.dreamtime-studios.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 18:54:20 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Surviving Faire in Court Costume, was Re: [h-cost] current and
	future work?
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Joan, here.  I've been in court for the last 20 years or so.  One way to 
handle the heat is to keep natural fibers next to your skin; my personal 
preference is linen rather than cotton.  Linen does an excellent job of 
wicking away the inevitable sweat.  Keeping your head covered helps, 
too.  Drink lots of water (and NO alcohol until after hours!) and eat light 
foods; I like to have plenty of fresh fruits and some fresh or pickled 
vegetables (personally, I heartily dislike pickles, but love black olives), 
simple meats (roasted rather than fried, for example), and bread.  And 
definitely eat a decent breakfast; it helps give you the energy to get 
going.  And I have found that starting to dress by 9 or 10 a.m. (depending 
upon when your fair opens) helps me adjust to the heat better than if I 
tried to dress just before going out for Progress in mid-afternoon.  Also, 
if you can dress out-of-doors (once your shift is on, you're decent), I 
find it helps (unless, of course, it's a cold day [we actually had a few 
this summer in Novato]) due to the better air circulation.  In fact, I 
generally put my make-up on outdoors once I have my shift, corset, and 
farthingale on (I use Derma-Blend in one shade lighter than my natural skin 
tone; this is the only make-up I have ever used that I do not sweat off).
This year I had a new gown using Margo's pattern.  The layers were a 
high-necked, calf-length shift (linen), my corset, farthingale, underskirt 
with forepart, overskirt and doublet bodice (closed all the way up) in 
black (cotton) velveteen with lots of gold and silver lace (mostly Europa 
trims), full, closed sleeves, a caul (white pearled silk with gold lace), 
and small hat.  Add the jewelry and a fan, and the total weight comes to 35 
pounds or so.
And I had a WONDERFUL time walking, shopping, dancing, singing....

Joan Jurancich
aka Mistress Blanche Parry, Chief Gentlewoman of the Bedchamber to Queen 
Elizabeth
Forest Faire (Novato, CA)

At 12:22 PM 9/9/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>Joan, Chris, pop in here any time before or whnever I say something that
>isn't currently acurate.
>
>(chuckle) LOTS of water, staying in shade as much as possible, good fitting
>(read non-chafing) clothing, no running -- with or without scissors, and
>most importantly of all, natural fabrics. You know all this already, I'm
>sure. A lightweight wool will always be more comfortable than a polyblend
>anything. I like silk chemises, but others swear that linen is cooler than
>silk. Either one is actually cooler than cotton, I've found.
>
>And like any historic or centemporary outfit, cheap trim or fabric will make
>well-made clothing look like trash. Don't skimp.
>
>Please remember I'm talking about Northern California during its hottest
>time of the year. The clothing I'm talking about is also the flashiest at
>the faire and given the most scrunity. It will weigh upwards of 25 pounds.
>
>LynnD
>
> > From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
> > Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 13:10:45 -0600
> >
> > Since Renn faires are usually in the heat of the summer, how does one
> > stand to spend much time walking around in court (thanks for the proper
> > term) dress?
> >
> > On Sep 9, 2004, at 12:53 PM, Lynn Downward wrote:
> >
> >> Again, I'm only using my own experience so yes, I'm talking about court
> >> clothing. In the past, when we (in court) have seen visitors in
> >> wonderfully
> >> well done court dresses, we've introduced ourselves and asked about the
> >> dress - who did it, where the idea came from, how they got "that bit"
> >> to
> >> work so well, etc. If we have fewer actors than usual that day,
> >> visitors
> >> with outstanding clothing have been invited to join our progress
> >> through the
> >> faire to the Queen's show. Please remember I cannot speak for the past
> >> 5-6
> >> years. Things may have changed.
> >>
> >> LynnD
> >>
> >>> From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
> >>> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> >>> Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 12:43:51 -0600
> >>> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> >>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
> >>>
> >>> When you say an incredible outfit, do you mean a nobility type garment
> >>> as opposed to the peasant type garb?  I know I can make one, as I have
> >>> done so as a theatrical costumer on Shakespeare productions.  Do
> >>> people
> >>> other than those working the faires walk around in those types of
> >>> costumes?
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> On Sep 9, 2004, at 12:25 PM, Lynn Downward wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> I know from experience that if you show up at the California Ren
> >>>> faires in
> >>>> an incredible outfit as a visitor the court people will want to get
> >>>> to
> >>>> know
> >>>> you. If you say that you're a costumer and wouldn't mind work for
> >>>> anyone who
> >>>> needs an outfit for next year and spread your business cards around,
> >>>> you'll
> >>>> probably get some work, especially if the group is organized and keep
> >>>> a list
> >>>> of available costumers. We tend to work inside the group (I haven't
> >>>> worked
> >>>> the faires for a while now, but that's what we did), but there's
> >>>> often
> >>>> times
> >>>> when the known costumers are too busy and you'll get work. Once
> >>>> you've
> >>>> proven yourself by giving a wonderfully fitted, beautiful dress,
> >>>> people will
> >>>> remember your name and give you work.
> >>>>
> >>>> LynnD
> >>>> St. George
> >>>> Retired, RPF-N
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>> From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
> >>>>> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> >>>>> Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 12:05:52 -0600
> >>>>> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> >>>>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Well, it has naturally occurred to me that I should start going to
> >>>>> Renn
> >>>>> Faires and I keep thinking of doing that every summer when there is
> >>>>> one
> >>>>> here in the Denver area.  But I guess my real questions are: 1)
> >>>>> does
> >>>>> one just walk around a Renn faire in a good costume and get work?
> >>>>> Do
> >>>>> people just come up to you and ask you to make them a costume?   2)
> >>>>> If
> >>>>> not, are there other additional ways of getting involved?  3)  What
> >>>>> other groups are helpful to look into besides the Renn faire circuit
> >>>>> and the SCA?
> >>>>>
> >>>>> On Sep 9, 2004, at 11:36 AM, Susan Farmer wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> How does one get into this type of sewing business?  It sounds a
> >>>>>>> lot
> >>>>>>> more lucrative than my online business which caters to the goth
> >>>>>>> and
> >>>>>>> belly dance markets.  When I started my business in about 1997 I
> >>>>>>> thought it would eventually take off and I could live off of it
> >>>>>>> but
> >>>>>>> it
> >>>>>>> has never progresses further than bringing me in an order about
> >>>>>>> once
> >>>>>>> every 2 weeks.  I have never been involved in Renn faires or the
> >>>>>>> SCA
> >>>>>>> or
> >>>>>>> anything like that.  Any suggestions on where to start?
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> My guess would be to at least cultivate RenFaire or SCA clientele
> >>>>>> if
> >>>>>> you
> >>>>>> don't want to get involved there.  People can't use a service if
> >>>>>> they
> >>>>>> don't
> >>>>>> know that it exists.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Jerusha
> >>>>>> _______________________________________________
> >>>>>> h-costume mailing list
> >>>>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >>>>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> _______________________________________________
> >>>>> h-costume mailing list
> >>>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >>>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> _______________________________________________
> >>>> h-costume mailing list
> >>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>> _______________________________________________
> >>> h-costume mailing list
> >>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >>
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> h-costume mailing list
> >> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >>
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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>
>
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Who asked about diamond-weave wool?
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 00:07:05 -0400
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On Thursday 09 September 2004 4:51 am, Teddy wrote:
> > Teddy wrote:
>[snip]
> He gets the fabric specially woven (I think he said for Viking
> re-enactors)

Figures.  If memory serves me, some diamond twill does show up in medieval 
finds, but the weave is more firmly identified with the Viking period and 
earlier.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Fwd: Surviving Faire in Court Costume, was Re: [h-cost]
	current and future work?
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>Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 18:54:20 -0700
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
>Subject: Surviving Faire in Court Costume, was Re: [h-cost] current and 
>future work?
>
>Joan, here.  I've been in court for the last 20 years or so.  One way to 
>handle the heat is to keep natural fibers next to your skin; my personal 
>preference is linen rather than cotton.  Linen does an excellent job of 
>wicking away the inevitable sweat.  Keeping your head covered helps, 
>too.  Drink lots of water (and NO alcohol until after hours!) and eat 
>light foods; I like to have plenty of fresh fruits and some fresh or 
>pickled vegetables (personally, I heartily dislike pickles, but love black 
>olives), simple meats (roasted rather than fried, for example), and 
>bread.  And definitely eat a decent breakfast; it helps give you the 
>energy to get going.  And I have found that starting to dress by 9 or 10 
>a.m. (depending upon when your fair opens) helps me adjust to the heat 
>better than if I tried to dress just before going out for Progress in 
>mid-afternoon.  Also, if you can dress out-of-doors (once your shift is 
>on, you're decent), I find it helps (unless, of course, it's a cold day 
>[we actually had a few this summer in Novato]) due to the better air 
>circulation.  In fact, I generally put my make-up on outdoors once I have 
>my shift, corset, and farthingale on (I use Derma-Blend in one shade 
>lighter than my natural skin tone; this is the only make-up I have ever 
>used that I do not sweat off).
>This year I had a new gown using Margo's pattern.  The layers were a 
>high-necked, calf-length shift (linen), my corset, farthingale, underskirt 
>with forepart, overskirt and doublet bodice (closed all the way up) in 
>black (cotton) velveteen with lots of gold and silver lace (mostly Europa 
>trims), full, closed sleeves, a caul (white pearled silk with gold lace), 
>and small hat.  Add the jewelry and a fan, and the total weight comes to 
>35 pounds or so.
>And I had a WONDERFUL time walking, shopping, dancing, singing....
>
>Joan Jurancich
>aka Mistress Blanche Parry, Chief Gentlewoman of the Bedchamber to Queen 
>Elizabeth
>Forest Faire (Novato, CA)
>
>At 12:22 PM 9/9/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>>Joan, Chris, pop in here any time before or whnever I say something that
>>isn't currently acurate.
>>
>>(chuckle) LOTS of water, staying in shade as much as possible, good fitting
>>(read non-chafing) clothing, no running -- with or without scissors, and
>>most importantly of all, natural fabrics. You know all this already, I'm
>>sure. A lightweight wool will always be more comfortable than a polyblend
>>anything. I like silk chemises, but others swear that linen is cooler than
>>silk. Either one is actually cooler than cotton, I've found.
>>
>>And like any historic or centemporary outfit, cheap trim or fabric will make
>>well-made clothing look like trash. Don't skimp.
>>
>>Please remember I'm talking about Northern California during its hottest
>>time of the year. The clothing I'm talking about is also the flashiest at
>>the faire and given the most scrunity. It will weigh upwards of 25 pounds.
>>
>>LynnD
>>
>> > From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
>> > Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 13:10:45 -0600
>> >
>> > Since Renn faires are usually in the heat of the summer, how does one
>> > stand to spend much time walking around in court (thanks for the proper
>> > term) dress?
>> >
>> > On Sep 9, 2004, at 12:53 PM, Lynn Downward wrote:
>> >
>> >> Again, I'm only using my own experience so yes, I'm talking about court
>> >> clothing. In the past, when we (in court) have seen visitors in
>> >> wonderfully
>> >> well done court dresses, we've introduced ourselves and asked about the
>> >> dress - who did it, where the idea came from, how they got "that bit"
>> >> to
>> >> work so well, etc. If we have fewer actors than usual that day,
>> >> visitors
>> >> with outstanding clothing have been invited to join our progress
>> >> through the
>> >> faire to the Queen's show. Please remember I cannot speak for the past
>> >> 5-6
>> >> years. Things may have changed.
>> >>
>> >> LynnD
>> >>
>> >>> From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
>> >>> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>> >>> Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 12:43:51 -0600
>> >>> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>> >>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
>> >>>
>> >>> When you say an incredible outfit, do you mean a nobility type garment
>> >>> as opposed to the peasant type garb?  I know I can make one, as I have
>> >>> done so as a theatrical costumer on Shakespeare productions.  Do
>> >>> people
>> >>> other than those working the faires walk around in those types of
>> >>> costumes?
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>> On Sep 9, 2004, at 12:25 PM, Lynn Downward wrote:
>> >>>
>> >>>> I know from experience that if you show up at the California Ren
>> >>>> faires in
>> >>>> an incredible outfit as a visitor the court people will want to get
>> >>>> to
>> >>>> know
>> >>>> you. If you say that you're a costumer and wouldn't mind work for
>> >>>> anyone who
>> >>>> needs an outfit for next year and spread your business cards around,
>> >>>> you'll
>> >>>> probably get some work, especially if the group is organized and keep
>> >>>> a list
>> >>>> of available costumers. We tend to work inside the group (I haven't
>> >>>> worked
>> >>>> the faires for a while now, but that's what we did), but there's
>> >>>> often
>> >>>> times
>> >>>> when the known costumers are too busy and you'll get work. Once
>> >>>> you've
>> >>>> proven yourself by giving a wonderfully fitted, beautiful dress,
>> >>>> people will
>> >>>> remember your name and give you work.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> LynnD
>> >>>> St. George
>> >>>> Retired, RPF-N
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>>> From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
>> >>>>> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>> >>>>> Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 12:05:52 -0600
>> >>>>> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>> >>>>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>> Well, it has naturally occurred to me that I should start going to
>> >>>>> Renn
>> >>>>> Faires and I keep thinking of doing that every summer when there is
>> >>>>> one
>> >>>>> here in the Denver area.  But I guess my real questions are: 1)
>> >>>>> does
>> >>>>> one just walk around a Renn faire in a good costume and get work?
>> >>>>> Do
>> >>>>> people just come up to you and ask you to make them a costume?   2)
>> >>>>> If
>> >>>>> not, are there other additional ways of getting involved?  3)  What
>> >>>>> other groups are helpful to look into besides the Renn faire circuit
>> >>>>> and the SCA?
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>> On Sep 9, 2004, at 11:36 AM, Susan Farmer wrote:
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>>>>
>> >>>>>>> How does one get into this type of sewing business?  It sounds a
>> >>>>>>> lot
>> >>>>>>> more lucrative than my online business which caters to the goth
>> >>>>>>> and
>> >>>>>>> belly dance markets.  When I started my business in about 1997 I
>> >>>>>>> thought it would eventually take off and I could live off of it
>> >>>>>>> but
>> >>>>>>> it
>> >>>>>>> has never progresses further than bringing me in an order about
>> >>>>>>> once
>> >>>>>>> every 2 weeks.  I have never been involved in Renn faires or the
>> >>>>>>> SCA
>> >>>>>>> or
>> >>>>>>> anything like that.  Any suggestions on where to start?
>> >>>>>>
>> >>>>>> My guess would be to at least cultivate RenFaire or SCA clientele
>> >>>>>> if
>> >>>>>> you
>> >>>>>> don't want to get involved there.  People can't use a service if
>> >>>>>> they
>> >>>>>> don't
>> >>>>>> know that it exists.
>> >>>>>>
>> >>>>>> Jerusha
>> >>>>>> _______________________________________________
>> >>>>>> h-costume mailing list
>> >>>>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> >>>>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>> >>>>>>
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>> _______________________________________________
>> >>>>> h-costume mailing list
>> >>>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> >>>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>> _______________________________________________
>> >>>> h-costume mailing list
>> >>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> >>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>> >>>>
>> >>>
>> >>> _______________________________________________
>> >>> h-costume mailing list
>> >>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> >>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> _______________________________________________
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>> >
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 01:23:47 2004
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: Surviving Faire in Court Costume,
	was Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 23:26:44 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Wow!  None of you guys have inspired me at all to want to go to a Renn 
Faire now in court dress.  Guess I'll try to think of some other way to 
make some money.

Sylrog

On Sep 9, 2004, at 11:17 PM, Joan Jurancich wrote:

>
>> Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 18:54:20 -0700
>> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>> From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
>> Subject: Surviving Faire in Court Costume, was Re: [h-cost] current 
>> and future work?
>>
>> Joan, here.  I've been in court for the last 20 years or so.  One way 
>> to handle the heat is to keep natural fibers next to your skin; my 
>> personal preference is linen rather than cotton.  Linen does an 
>> excellent job of wicking away the inevitable sweat.  Keeping your 
>> head covered helps, too.  Drink lots of water (and NO alcohol until 
>> after hours!) and eat light foods; I like to have plenty of fresh 
>> fruits and some fresh or pickled vegetables (personally, I heartily 
>> dislike pickles, but love black olives), simple meats (roasted rather 
>> than fried, for example), and bread.  And definitely eat a decent 
>> breakfast; it helps give you the energy to get going.  And I have 
>> found that starting to dress by 9 or 10 a.m. (depending upon when 
>> your fair opens) helps me adjust to the heat better than if I tried 
>> to dress just before going out for Progress in mid-afternoon.  Also, 
>> if you can dress out-of-doors (once your shift is on, you're decent), 
>> I find it helps (unless, of course, it's a cold day [we actually had 
>> a few this summer in Novato]) due to the better air circulation.  In 
>> fact, I generally put my make-up on outdoors once I have my shift, 
>> corset, and farthingale on (I use Derma-Blend in one shade lighter 
>> than my natural skin tone; this is the only make-up I have ever used 
>> that I do not sweat off).
>> This year I had a new gown using Margo's pattern.  The layers were a 
>> high-necked, calf-length shift (linen), my corset, farthingale, 
>> underskirt with forepart, overskirt and doublet bodice (closed all 
>> the way up) in black (cotton) velveteen with lots of gold and silver 
>> lace (mostly Europa trims), full, closed sleeves, a caul (white 
>> pearled silk with gold lace), and small hat.  Add the jewelry and a 
>> fan, and the total weight comes to 35 pounds or so.
>> And I had a WONDERFUL time walking, shopping, dancing, singing....
>>
>> Joan Jurancich
>> aka Mistress Blanche Parry, Chief Gentlewoman of the Bedchamber to 
>> Queen Elizabeth
>> Forest Faire (Novato, CA)
>>
>> At 12:22 PM 9/9/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>>> Joan, Chris, pop in here any time before or whnever I say something 
>>> that
>>> isn't currently acurate.
>>>
>>> (chuckle) LOTS of water, staying in shade as much as possible, good 
>>> fitting
>>> (read non-chafing) clothing, no running -- with or without scissors, 
>>> and
>>> most importantly of all, natural fabrics. You know all this already, 
>>> I'm
>>> sure. A lightweight wool will always be more comfortable than a 
>>> polyblend
>>> anything. I like silk chemises, but others swear that linen is 
>>> cooler than
>>> silk. Either one is actually cooler than cotton, I've found.
>>>
>>> And like any historic or centemporary outfit, cheap trim or fabric 
>>> will make
>>> well-made clothing look like trash. Don't skimp.
>>>
>>> Please remember I'm talking about Northern California during its 
>>> hottest
>>> time of the year. The clothing I'm talking about is also the 
>>> flashiest at
>>> the faire and given the most scrunity. It will weigh upwards of 25 
>>> pounds.
>>>
>>> LynnD
>>>
>>> > From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
>>> > Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 13:10:45 -0600
>>> >
>>> > Since Renn faires are usually in the heat of the summer, how does 
>>> one
>>> > stand to spend much time walking around in court (thanks for the 
>>> proper
>>> > term) dress?
>>> >
>>> > On Sep 9, 2004, at 12:53 PM, Lynn Downward wrote:
>>> >
>>> >> Again, I'm only using my own experience so yes, I'm talking about 
>>> court
>>> >> clothing. In the past, when we (in court) have seen visitors in
>>> >> wonderfully
>>> >> well done court dresses, we've introduced ourselves and asked 
>>> about the
>>> >> dress - who did it, where the idea came from, how they got "that 
>>> bit"
>>> >> to
>>> >> work so well, etc. If we have fewer actors than usual that day,
>>> >> visitors
>>> >> with outstanding clothing have been invited to join our progress
>>> >> through the
>>> >> faire to the Queen's show. Please remember I cannot speak for the 
>>> past
>>> >> 5-6
>>> >> years. Things may have changed.
>>> >>
>>> >> LynnD
>>> >>
>>> >>> From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
>>> >>> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>>> >>> Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 12:43:51 -0600
>>> >>> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>>> >>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
>>> >>>
>>> >>> When you say an incredible outfit, do you mean a nobility type 
>>> garment
>>> >>> as opposed to the peasant type garb?  I know I can make one, as 
>>> I have
>>> >>> done so as a theatrical costumer on Shakespeare productions.  Do
>>> >>> people
>>> >>> other than those working the faires walk around in those types of
>>> >>> costumes?
>>> >>>
>>> >>>
>>> >>> On Sep 9, 2004, at 12:25 PM, Lynn Downward wrote:
>>> >>>
>>> >>>> I know from experience that if you show up at the California Ren
>>> >>>> faires in
>>> >>>> an incredible outfit as a visitor the court people will want to 
>>> get
>>> >>>> to
>>> >>>> know
>>> >>>> you. If you say that you're a costumer and wouldn't mind work 
>>> for
>>> >>>> anyone who
>>> >>>> needs an outfit for next year and spread your business cards 
>>> around,
>>> >>>> you'll
>>> >>>> probably get some work, especially if the group is organized 
>>> and keep
>>> >>>> a list
>>> >>>> of available costumers. We tend to work inside the group (I 
>>> haven't
>>> >>>> worked
>>> >>>> the faires for a while now, but that's what we did), but there's
>>> >>>> often
>>> >>>> times
>>> >>>> when the known costumers are too busy and you'll get work. Once
>>> >>>> you've
>>> >>>> proven yourself by giving a wonderfully fitted, beautiful dress,
>>> >>>> people will
>>> >>>> remember your name and give you work.
>>> >>>>
>>> >>>> LynnD
>>> >>>> St. George
>>> >>>> Retired, RPF-N
>>> >>>>
>>> >>>>
>>> >>>>> From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
>>> >>>>> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>>> >>>>> Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 12:05:52 -0600
>>> >>>>> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>>> >>>>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
>>> >>>>>
>>> >>>>> Well, it has naturally occurred to me that I should start 
>>> going to
>>> >>>>> Renn
>>> >>>>> Faires and I keep thinking of doing that every summer when 
>>> there is
>>> >>>>> one
>>> >>>>> here in the Denver area.  But I guess my real questions are: 1)
>>> >>>>> does
>>> >>>>> one just walk around a Renn faire in a good costume and get 
>>> work?
>>> >>>>> Do
>>> >>>>> people just come up to you and ask you to make them a costume? 
>>>   2)
>>> >>>>> If
>>> >>>>> not, are there other additional ways of getting involved?  3)  
>>> What
>>> >>>>> other groups are helpful to look into besides the Renn faire 
>>> circuit
>>> >>>>> and the SCA?
>>> >>>>>
>>> >>>>> On Sep 9, 2004, at 11:36 AM, Susan Farmer wrote:
>>> >>>>>
>>> >>>>>>>
>>> >>>>>>> How does one get into this type of sewing business?  It 
>>> sounds a
>>> >>>>>>> lot
>>> >>>>>>> more lucrative than my online business which caters to the 
>>> goth
>>> >>>>>>> and
>>> >>>>>>> belly dance markets.  When I started my business in about 
>>> 1997 I
>>> >>>>>>> thought it would eventually take off and I could live off of 
>>> it
>>> >>>>>>> but
>>> >>>>>>> it
>>> >>>>>>> has never progresses further than bringing me in an order 
>>> about
>>> >>>>>>> once
>>> >>>>>>> every 2 weeks.  I have never been involved in Renn faires or 
>>> the
>>> >>>>>>> SCA
>>> >>>>>>> or
>>> >>>>>>> anything like that.  Any suggestions on where to start?
>>> >>>>>>
>>> >>>>>> My guess would be to at least cultivate RenFaire or SCA 
>>> clientele
>>> >>>>>> if
>>> >>>>>> you
>>> >>>>>> don't want to get involved there.  People can't use a service 
>>> if
>>> >>>>>> they
>>> >>>>>> don't
>>> >>>>>> know that it exists.
>>> >>>>>>
>>> >>>>>> Jerusha
>>> >>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>> >>>>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> >>>>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> >>>>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>> >>>>>>
>>> >>>>>
>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________
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>>> >>>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> >>>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>> >>>>
>>> >>>>
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>>> >>>>
>>> >>>
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>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >> _______________________________________________
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>>> >>
>>> >
>>> > _______________________________________________
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>>>
>>>
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>
> _______________________________________________
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] current and future work?
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At 10:20 PM 9/9/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>This year,
>I will be wearing my new court gown that is red and gold fleur de leis
>tapestry; totally hand made and, has 12,000 pearls on it.  Believe me---I
>WILL HAVE FUN !!!!!
>
>Diane


Oooh, sounds lovely. Please share pics when you can. And I hope you have 
lots of fun!

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Owner ~ DreamTime Studios
http://www.dreamtime-studios.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 2004 22:27:24 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: Women/girls and pants (WAS: Re: [h-cost] 19th century underwear)
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At 02:38 PM 9/9/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>OTOH, to this day I don't think I have EVER seen a Chassidic women (of any 
>of several Chassidic sects) wearing pants...
>
>Hmm... a thought... considering that a lot of modern Chassidic dress 
>(especially for the men) is considered to have been taken (and not much 
>modified) from the styles that were current to the areas of Eastern Europe 
>from which those sects arose, how closely related is Chassidic dress to 
>historical dress/costume? (Has anyone really done a comparison of current 
>and when-founded styles of the various Chassidic sects?)
>
>
>
>Brenda
>webwarren@earthlink.net


Hi Brenda,

Please excuse my ignorance, but what is "Chassidic"?

Kimiko

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 02:25:41 2004
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 02:23:23 -0400
From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Slightly OT -- sewing polartec
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My list of winter projects includes things I was expecting to do LAST
winter, plus all the fabric I've bought since then. BUT for my next trick, I
need to copy a Polartec poncho I have (it was an LL Bean's Traveler catalog
item about three years ago and I LOVE it -- I wear it around the
55-degree-Fahrenheit house all winter) in safety orange for a friend of mine
who lives where there be deer hunters. I don't have a lot of experience
machine sewing -- my two machines are a 1960 Necchi with one stitch, but a
motor like an ox, and a 1980 Kenmore, which does have some interesting
looking stitches that I've never used. Anyway, anyone have any advice for
working with polyester fleece?

The poncho is a nifty little cut -- the sides are short enough to fall about
where sleeves would, and then the front and back are about knee-length. Its
very best feature is that it buttons in front, so you don't have to pull it
over your head, and can wear it open if you want. Cut in 4 panels, it has
enough shape to stay on, sort of opera-cape-like, when worn open. And then
there is the hood, quite serviceable, but also slightly interesting, as the
back seams of the hood form a T, so I think it must be cut as a long
rectangle with a square-ish bite taken out of the middle of one long side,
and then the short sides and the roof of the bite joined at the back in a T.
It's not a hood-style I'd seen before. I'm planning to either discover a
stitch on the Kenmore that will make nice edgings and seam bindings, or use
a plain zigzag on the raw edges and hand blanket-stitch the hem and hood
edging. Since the fabric has a bit of stretch to it, I'll probably use the
stretch stitch or a zigzag for the seams themselves.

And then it has my favorite thing -- self-covered buttons! I used to beg my
mom to let me make the covered buttons when she sewed us our spring coats,
back in the 1960s. But I don't think I've put one together since. So I'm
looking forward to that, too.

Anyway, as I said, any advice on sewing Polartec will be entertained.
Thanks,
Lauren

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: 19th century undewear .. and icky girl things ;)
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I've been looking for the online Museum of Menstruation for days, 
because of this conversation :)

http://www.mum.org/suspend.htm is a page showing a Very Odd suspender 
device from the 19th century.

I highly recommend this entire site to the curious. It's an eye-opener.

M.
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Hi Cynthia,
One book i would recomend would be Nancy Bradfield's book: Costume in
Detail. Her drawings of actual garments are very valuable and shows a lot of
hidden sewing details.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ms Cynthia Schrage" <pioneercynthia@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, September 10, 2004 3:51 AM
Subject: [h-cost] New Member/Bookshelf


> Hello all,
>
> I'm new to this group, and have been lurking for about
> a week. It's been very interesting (i.e., pads) and
> inspiring (the embroidered silk wedding dress).
>
> I am "clothing" a group of women for a re-enactment
> set in America in 1845, and another bunch for another
> re-enactment set in 1853.
>
> My question is: what are the books you all would
> recommend most? Both books of a general nature and
> more period specific ones...
>
> Thanks for the input.
> Your Obedient Servant,
> Cynthia
>
>
>
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Subject: [h-cost] Surviving Faire & re-enactments in Court Costume, 
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This whole subject interests me greatly, on a practical as well as a historical level.
I have read somewhere else - and wish I could recall where - that late medieval England went through the descending side of a climate cycle; and was generally a little colder and rather wetter than the current cycle in 2004.
At the time I didn't research the subject further - but if that was true, then it seems to me there would have been 2 main factors which  laft the people back then comfortable in clothing which in 2004 has us generally hot and sweaty.
Firstly, that putative colder climate cycle.
And secondly, the fact that the gentry and noblility had servants and peasantry to do the outside work for them, and so were able to keep out of the sum themselves.
 
In the latter connection, the constant necessary cleaning and oiling of armour and weapons is a real chore in 2004, - since, having no Pages or servants to do it for those of us who use them, - we have to do it ourselves after each day's "performance".
 In this connection, I've just discovered a good spray-on product named "Metal Guard" - developed for the protection of tools. We've just started to use it on weapons and armour, and it seems to work very well; fingermarks are easier to clean off bright steel, and the incidence of rust is way down, as well.
Just thought the List might be interested.
In Service,
Julian, 
in "olde" Jersey.


Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net> wrote:
Joan, here. I've been in court for the last 20 years or so. One way to 
handle the heat is to keep natural fibers next to your skin; my personal 
preference is linen rather than cotton. Linen does an excellent job of 
wicking away the inevitable sweat. Keeping your head covered helps, 
too. Drink lots of water (and NO alcohol until after hours!) and eat light 
foods; I like to have plenty of fresh fruits and some fresh or pickled 
vegetables (personally, I heartily dislike pickles, but love black olives), 
simple meats (roasted rather than fried, for example), and bread. And 
definitely eat a decent breakfast; it helps give you the energy to get 
going. And I have found that starting to dress by 9 or 10 a.m. (depending 
upon when your fair opens) helps me adjust to the heat better than if I 
tried to dress just before going out for Progress in mid-afternoon. Also, 
if you can dress out-of-doors (once your shift is on, you're decent), I 
find it helps (unless, of course, it's a cold day [we actually had a few 
this summer in Novato]) due to the better air circulation. In fact, I 
generally put my make-up on outdoors once I have my shift, corset, and 
farthingale on (I use Derma-Blend in one shade lighter than my natural skin 
tone; this is the only make-up I have ever used that I do not sweat off).
This year I had a new gown using Margo's pattern. The layers were a 
high-necked, calf-length shift (linen), my corset, farthingale, underskirt 
with forepart, overskirt and doublet bodice (closed all the way up) in 
black (cotton) velveteen with lots of gold and silver lace (mostly Europa 
trims), full, closed sleeves, a caul (white pearled silk with gold lace), 
and small hat. Add the jewelry and a fan, and the total weight comes to 35 
pounds or so.
And I had a WONDERFUL time walking, shopping, dancing, singing....

Joan Jurancich
aka Mistress Blanche Parry, Chief Gentlewoman of the Bedchamber to Queen 
Elizabeth
Forest Faire (Novato, CA)

At 12:22 PM 9/9/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>Joan, Chris, pop in here any time before or whnever I say something that
>isn't currently acurate.
>
>(chuckle) LOTS of water, staying in shade as much as possible, good fitting
>(read non-chafing) clothing, no running -- with or without scissors, and
>most importantly of all, natural fabrics. You know all this already, I'm
>sure. A lightweight wool will always be more comfortable than a polyblend
>anything. I like silk chemises, but others swear that linen is cooler than
>silk. Either one is actually cooler than cotton, I've found.
>
>And like any historic or centemporary outfit, cheap trim or fabric will make
>well-made clothing look like trash. Don't skimp.
>
>Please remember I'm talking about Northern California during its hottest
>time of the year. The clothing I'm talking about is also the flashiest at
>the faire and given the most scrunity. It will weigh upwards of 25 pounds.
>
>LynnD
>
> > From: Sylvia Rognstad 
> > Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 13:10:45 -0600
> >
> > Since Renn faires are usually in the heat of the summer, how does one
> > stand to spend much time walking around in court (thanks for the proper
> > term) dress?
> >
> > On Sep 9, 2004, at 12:53 PM, Lynn Downward wrote:
> >
> >> Again, I'm only using my own experience so yes, I'm talking about court
> >> clothing. In the past, when we (in court) have seen visitors in
> >> wonderfully
> >> well done court dresses, we've introduced ourselves and asked about the
> >> dress - who did it, where the idea came from, how they got "that bit"
> >> to
> >> work so well, etc. If we have fewer actors than usual that day,
> >> visitors
> >> with outstanding clothing have been invited to join our progress
> >> through the
> >> faire to the Queen's show. Please remember I cannot speak for the past
> >> 5-6
> >> years. Things may have changed.
> >>
> >> LynnD
> >>
> >>> From: Sylvia Rognstad 
> >>> Reply-To: Historical Costume 
> >>> Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 12:43:51 -0600
> >>> To: Historical Costume 
> >>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
> >>>
> >>> When you say an incredible outfit, do you mean a nobility type garment
> >>> as opposed to the peasant type garb? I know I can make one, as I have
> >>> done so as a theatrical costumer on Shakespeare productions. Do
> >>> people
> >>> other than those working the faires walk around in those types of
> >>> costumes?
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> On Sep 9, 2004, at 12:25 PM, Lynn Downward wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> I know from experience that if you show up at the California Ren
> >>>> faires in
> >>>> an incredible outfit as a visitor the court people will want to get
> >>>> to
> >>>> know
> >>>> you. If you say that you're a costumer and wouldn't mind work for
> >>>> anyone who
> >>>> needs an outfit for next year and spread your business cards around,
> >>>> you'll
> >>>> probably get some work, especially if the group is organized and keep
> >>>> a list
> >>>> of available costumers. We tend to work inside the group (I haven't
> >>>> worked
> >>>> the faires for a while now, but that's what we did), but there's
> >>>> often
> >>>> times
> >>>> when the known costumers are too busy and you'll get work. Once
> >>>> you've
> >>>> proven yourself by giving a wonderfully fitted, beautiful dress,
> >>>> people will
> >>>> remember your name and give you work.
> >>>>
> >>>> LynnD
> >>>> St. George
> >>>> Retired, RPF-N
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>> From: Sylvia Rognstad 
> >>>>> Reply-To: Historical Costume 
> >>>>> Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 12:05:52 -0600
> >>>>> To: Historical Costume 
> >>>>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Well, it has naturally occurred to me that I should start going to
> >>>>> Renn
> >>>>> Faires and I keep thinking of doing that every summer when there is
> >>>>> one
> >>>>> here in the Denver area. But I guess my real questions are: 1)
> >>>>> does
> >>>>> one just walk around a Renn faire in a good costume and get work?
> >>>>> Do
> >>>>> people just come up to you and ask you to make them a costume? 2)
> >>>>> If
> >>>>> not, are there other additional ways of getting involved? 3) What
> >>>>> other groups are helpful to look into besides the Renn faire circuit
> >>>>> and the SCA?
> >>>>>
> >>>>> On Sep 9, 2004, at 11:36 AM, Susan Farmer wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> How does one get into this type of sewing business? It sounds a
> >>>>>>> lot
> >>>>>>> more lucrative than my online business which caters to the goth
> >>>>>>> and
> >>>>>>> belly dance markets. When I started my business in about 1997 I
> >>>>>>> thought it would eventually take off and I could live off of it
> >>>>>>> but
> >>>>>>> it
> >>>>>>> has never progresses further than bringing me in an order about
> >>>>>>> once
> >>>>>>> every 2 weeks. I have never been involved in Renn faires or the
> >>>>>>> SCA
> >>>>>>> or
> >>>>>>> anything like that. Any suggestions on where to start?
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> My guess would be to at least cultivate RenFaire or SCA clientele
> >>>>>> if
> >>>>>> you
> >>>>>> don't want to get involved there. People can't use a service if
> >>>>>> they
> >>>>>> don't
> >>>>>> know that it exists.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Jerusha
> >>>>>> _______________________________________________
> >>>>>> h-costume mailing list
> >>>>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >>>>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> _______________________________________________
> >>>>> h-costume mailing list
> >>>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >>>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> _______________________________________________
> >>>> h-costume mailing list
> >>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>> _______________________________________________
> >>> h-costume mailing list
> >>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >>
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
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> >>
> >
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>
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Robin Netherton wrote:
> > > I opened up a new brand of pad this month and was astounded 
> > > to find that the wings sealed not with adhesive strips, but 
> > > with *velcro.* 

Teddy wrote:
> > Well, if they do it on disposable nappies for babies, why not on
pads
> > for women.

Cynthia Virtue wrote:
> Different orientation of fastening -- around the hips for babies, onto

> underwear for women.  I can go into detail if needed, but off list.

 Dianne wrote:
> Lack of pubic hair on babies! (ouch ouch)

And Teddy responded;

I was referring to the disposable nature of such items and the move from
sticky attachments to velcro - not to the mechanics of the actual pads
vs nappies....<deep sigh>

Teddy
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Oh, bother! Apologies to Listers and Moderators - I forgot to SNIP this last posting down to the bare bones!
Oh, and "keep out of the sum" should, of course, have read "keep out of the SUN".
Sorry, everyone!
[note to self - must try to do better!]
In Service,
Julian, 
in "olde" Jersey

julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
This whole subject interests me greatly, on a practical as well as a historical level.  BIG SNIPPAGE - [remembered this time!]
		
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 10:15:46 +0100
From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Court Garb in hot weather (WAS:current and future work?)
To: h-costume@indra.com
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> Since Renn faires are usually in the heat of the summer, how does one 
> stand to spend much time walking around in court (thanks for 
> the proper term) dress?

A few suggestions

Avoid synthetic fibres.,,, thick/heavy natural fibres are often much
cooler to wear than thin synthetics which don't let your skin breath.

Hooped farthingales keep the fabric of your gown skirt and underskirt
etc away from your legs so they can stay cool and shaded under there
9and you can encourage a breeze underneath by swaying the hoops back and
forth while keeping your upper body still.

Drink enough water to stop yourself dehydrating.

Some people slip ice-packs into theuir bodices to help them cool down.
Some build in pockets for said icepacks

A fine mister-spray filled with cold water can work wonders sprayed on
yor face when the ehat gets a bit too much.

Hope this helps

Teddy
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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Surviving Faire & re-enactments in Court Costume,
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>>> smnco37@yahoo.co.uk 10/09/2004 09:03:52 >>> wrote:
>I have read somewhere else - and wish I could recall where - that   
>late medieval England went through the descending side of a climate
>cycle; and was generally a little colder and rather wetter than the    
>current cycle in 2004.

Yes, the "mini Ice Age" has been discussed before on this list. Don't
forget also that many posters are referring to regions of the USA where
summers are hotter than in modern Britain, let alone the 16th - 17th
century Britain the clothing was originally designed for.





Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby
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From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost]  rag doll prices (was RE: [h-cost] current and future
	work?)
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> >* I have orders to fill for two rag-dolls (the first I've made for
> >paying customers in over 8 years and my prices hadn't been upped in
over
> >ten years then so I have *no* idea what to charge for the  things
now!!!)
> >The customers who ordered them don't seem to mind but I don't want to
> >overcharge them and I don't want the final price to come as a shock
> >(there's a lot of hand-work on them, I fabric paint then embroider
over
> >the faces, hand sew all the hair on and hand finish the clothes).
> 
> Check out the Cloth Doll Connection, for prices the various  doll
artists 
> charge.  This will give you a high-end mark.
http://www.clothdollconnection.com

Thanks!  By he look of the prices on the dolls that are most similar to
mine, my "outdated" prices are still in the right ballpark.

Teddy
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Teddy wrote:

>>>Well, if they do it on disposable nappies for babies, why not on pads
>>>for women.

> I was referring to the disposable nature of such items and the move from
> sticky attachments to velcro - not to the mechanics of the actual pads
> vs nappies....<deep sigh>

Sorry, Teddy.

I think I don't understand what you were trying to say, if it wasn't 
about velcro vs. sticky tape.


-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

Register to vote!  Don't let that other guy win!
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kimiko Small" <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2004 11:52 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 19th century underwear


.
> >
> >My sister went to school with a girl who belonged to the Assembly of God
> >church and she was not allowed to wear pants or shorts.
> >
> >Dianne
>
>
> That's interesting. I was baptised Assembly of God, and I never heard of
> not wearing any shorts or pants. Must be a different area or
sub-denomination.

Possible. Also, as I said, it was my sister's friend, and she was much
younger than me so I saw her mostly as an annoyance. I certainly could be
wrong. It could have been Church of Christ, but in our small town that's
about as exotic a denomination as we had.

Dianne
who is grateful to be able to wear whatever she wants


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] PS on underwear
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> To help return the thread on mid-19th century undergarments and sanitary
> protection to a costume-related theme:
>
> There is a patent illustration in "Victorians Unbuttoned: Registered
Designs
> for Clothing, their Makers and Wearers, 1839-1900" by Sarah Levitt of a
> 'ladies belt'.  The patent is registered by Theresa Lawrence, Ludgate
Hill,
> City, 1849.  The belt is made "in red and blue silk with chamois leather
> pads at the hips and under the toggle towel fastenings to prevent chafing.
> [The belt is] adjusted by a piece of elastic in the front."

Just out of curiousity, when did elastic start to be used in clothing?

Dianne


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In a message dated 9/10/2004 2:21:10 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
pioneercynthia@yahoo.com writes:
I am "clothing" a group of women for a re-enactment
set in America in 1845, and another bunch for another
re-enactment set in 1853. 
There are people on the list who specialize in this period, but I will start 
you off with one book that is still in print, so easy to get.
Nancy Bradfield's "Costume in Detail," 2nd edition, can be ordered from Quite 
Specific Media. They have a website, and here is the URL for this book:
http://www.quitespecificmedia.com/search.php?author=63&x=10&y=15

Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] PS on underwear
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On Fri, 10 Sep 2004, Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> > I was referring to the disposable nature of such items and the move from
> > sticky attachments to velcro - not to the mechanics of the actual pads
> > vs nappies....<deep sigh>
> 
> Sorry, Teddy.
> 
> I think I don't understand what you were trying to say, if it wasn't 
> about velcro vs. sticky tape.

I think Teddy was saying that from a product development point of view, it
was logical enough, since these are similar products and both disposable.
No doubt that was in the mind of the person who thought of using Velcro
instead of adhesive on wings -- e.g. "they loved it on nappies..."

Not so logical from the wearer's standpoint, as the difference in *where*
the stuff has to attach really is crucial. Velcro is fine if it's being
attached directly to a dedicated space that's prepared to handle it -- as
with a nappy (diaper), which attaches to itself at the hips. Not so
practical with the current design of pads, that has the Velcro attaching
to underwear (or, not intentionally, skin) that was never designed to
handle it. So the technology doesn't transfer easily from one product to
the other, despite their superficial similarity.

(BTW, I also think that sanitary protection counts as historical costume
and is perfectly on-topic for this list. It's a wearable item, and we're
talking about its historical development. This thread has compared current
solutions to those of the 14th and 19th centuries.)

--Robin

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<snip>
> I wonder if the "pregnancy to get a Regency figure" anecdote hasn't
> possibly gotten confused along the way.  The character herself is
> pregnant for part of the movie, and I wonder if the anecdote has its
> roots in matching the actress's pregnancy to the character's
> pregnancy.  <snip> Heather

That makes so much more sense, I suppose it helps if you already know the
story, Vanity fair is somewhere on my list of maybe someday reading the
book, but not in the near future as I've got too much reading to do for Uni.
I will have to make the effort to go watch it when it comes out over here.
Elizabeth
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
Elizabeth Beaumont              Elizabeth Walpole
               in                       OR                 in
Politarchopolis, Lochac        Canberra, Australia
             ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au

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Dear Kate - 
no, that fact hadn't escaped me, since the SCA has Kingdoms over the whole Globe. 
We may be rather isolated in "olde" Jersey, but not "that" isolated, especially since the coming of the Internet.
 
BTW, may I say how much I enjoy the informative nature of your postings?
 
If you might be interested in seeing our group "at play" - then - [since our own webmaster is still rather behind on updated out own website] - may i suggest you take a look at the excellent <www.greydragon.org> website of our Guests at the "Revels" - "House Greydragon"; - go to the <"What's New"> subfile; and then open the subfile labelled "Jersey Revels". Lots of great photos, takne by Master Terafan's Lady.
 
Personally, I don't think we put on a bad show, for an un-sponsored group of only 30 late-medieval enthusiasts. I'm the "evil* Governor Matthew Baker" - wearing 2 different red robes, and the embroidered Flemish "pill-box" hat. 
 
NOTE * My "persona" was not actually "evil", the way I read the extant States of Jersey Archives records. 
No question, he was a committed Lancastrian soldier-bodyguard of 15 years' standing,  - sent to govern an island of predominantly Yorkist sympathisers, who were behind in their taxes to Henry VII, and unwilling to organise their own proper defence against the French invasion threat. This latter was - suddenly - only 15 miles away, following King Charles The Affable's "devil's bargain" with the very young Duchess Anne of Brittany [viz - "marry me, and you'll be Queen of France, and continue to rule your Duchy as a semi-independent Polity. Refuse - and I'll invade Brittany anyway, and absorb your Duchy into my Realm!" ]. The "bad Press" seems to have come from various Yorkist-sympathetic Chroniclers, and Victorian moralising Historians such as Tupper. King Henry VII certainly liked Baker well-enough, - for after recalling him from Jersey in 1497, he appointed Messire Baker thrice as his Ambassador - to the Courts of France and of Rome; and finally appointed him to the post of !
 "Keeper
 of Heaven, Purgatory, & Hell" - i.e. -in 2004-terms - "Premises Manager for Westminster Hall", [and all the Royal Palaces]. After which, Messire Matthew Baker vanishes from the Records - so we don't know how long he lived, or if he had "issue".
 
In Service,
Julian Wilson,
Re-enactor, Historian, and Master Artisan to
"The Companie of The Duke's Leopards", 
in "olde" Jersey.

Kate M Bunting <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> wrote:
SNIP

Yes, the "mini Ice Age" has been discussed before on this list. Don't forget also that many posters are referring to regions of the USA where summers are hotter than in modern Britain, let alone the 16th - 17th century Britain the clothing was originally designed for.
Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

		
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] PS on underwear
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And with that (and I'm NOT picking on Teddy!), can we *please* drop this 
topic? It's long since lost any connection, however remote, to 
historical costuming.  I'm about ready to offer a bribe to the first 
person who manages to make this thread go *away!*
--sue

Teddy wrote:
> Robin Netherton wrote:
> 
>>>>I opened up a new brand of pad this month and was astounded 
>>>>to find that the wings sealed not with adhesive strips, but 
>>>>with *velcro.* 
> 
> 
> Teddy wrote:
> 
>>>Well, if they do it on disposable nappies for babies, why not on
> 
> pads
> 
>>>for women.
> 
> 
> Cynthia Virtue wrote:
> 
>>Different orientation of fastening -- around the hips for babies, onto
> 
> 
>>underwear for women.  I can go into detail if needed, but off list.
> 
> 
>  Dianne wrote:
> 
>>Lack of pubic hair on babies! (ouch ouch)
> 
> 
> And Teddy responded;
> 
> I was referring to the disposable nature of such items and the move from
> sticky attachments to velcro - not to the mechanics of the actual pads
> vs nappies....<deep sigh>
> 
> Teddy

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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 07:33:07 -0500
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Surviving Faire & re-enactments in Court Costume,
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I've been doing Bristol RenFaire in Wisconsin for the last 15 years and I
have been frequently heard to bemoan the fact that someone in the past
decided that High Summer in the MidWest was a good time to do full
Elizabethans! As far as I know not only didn't the Elizabethans ever deal
with temperatures like this, modern Brits don't deal with temps like this
either. That being said, we just had a bizarrely perfect summer in terms
of temperature, barely broke 80 F all summer. It gave us a much better
idea of what real Elizabethans experienced. I have also been out in
winter weather wearing Elizabethans and been remarkably comfortable in my
basic kit. With the addition of a waist length shoulder cape and some
flannel drawers instead of cotton, I'd be good to well below freezing.


Karen

On Fri, 10 Sep 2004 10:49:16 +0100 "Kate M Bunting"
<K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> writes:
> Yes, the "mini Ice Age" has been discussed before on this list. 
> Don't
> forget also that many posters are referring to regions of the USA 
> where
> summers are hotter than in modern Britain, let alone the 16th - 
> 17th
> century Britain the clothing was originally designed for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kate Bunting
> Library, University of Derby
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 

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Dear Listers,
sorry about that last posting on this thread - in replying to I should have left Kate Bunting's much shorter posting at the heading, suitably SNIPPED, - and my own much longer reply to follw it. 
In extenuation, I can only plead a passing "senior moment".
In Service,
Julian Wilson,
Re-enactor, Historian, and Master Artisan to
"The Companie of The Duke's Leopards", 
in "olde" Jersey.


julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

Dear Kate - 
no, that fact hadn't escaped me, since the SCA has Kingdoms over the whole Globe. 
We may be rather isolated in "olde" Jersey, but not "that" isolated, especially since the coming of the Internet. 

Much SNIPPAGE

		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Surviving Faire & re-enactments in Court Costume,
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Well, our Companie certainly does on a hot Jersey summer's day at Gorey Castle. We usually set-up our display "camp" in the Lower Ward, where the castle walls, and the gravel paths, absorb the heat and reflect it back at us. The worst Met conditions on-site there are when there is little or no cooling sea breeze. On a day like that, a 5-minute, full-speed, full-contact, combat-display demonstration or practice  - will leave one's shirt and pourpoint absolutely wringing with perspiration, even without gambeson and armour.

In Service,
Julian Wilson,
Re-enactor, Historian, and Master Artisan to
"The Companie of The Duke's Leopards", 
in "olde" Jersey.

PS, how the devil does one " separate the original posting with it's blue-sidebar from one's own reply when wishing to "bottom-post"?


seamstrix@juno.com wrote: 

SNIP As far as I know not only didn't the Elizabethans ever deal
with temperatures like this, modern Brits don't deal with temps like this either. SNIP


		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Surviving Faire & re-enactments in Court Costume, 
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> From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>

> This whole subject interests me greatly, on a practical as well as a
> historical level.
> I have read somewhere else - and wish I could recall where - that late
> medieval England went through the descending side of a climate cycle; and was
> generally a little colder and rather wetter than the current cycle in 2004.
>
> Firstly, that putative colder climate cycle.
> And secondly, the fact that the gentry and noblility had servants and
> peasantry to do the outside work for them, and so were able to keep out of the
> sum themselves.
>
I am wondering -- not to harp on this, I know it is a sensitive subject and
I assure you I carry my own excess avoirdupois, but -- I find the heat
bothers me much worse when I am heavy than when I am lighter, and much more
when I am out of shape than when I am fit. Despite the servants, et al, and
despite some portrayals of weighty individuals, could a general level of
lighter weights and more fitness (if you had to get everywhere either on
foot or on horseback, you'd be more fit than most present-day Americans --
see the recent study showing that US city-dwellers weigh on average
something like 10 pounds less than their controlled-for-other-factors
suburban counterparts) have helped with the heat, too?

I also note that at least in the biography of Eleanor of Aquitaine I just
finished reading, "court" was held at Xmas, not midsummer. So maybe they
only got dressed up in winter?

Just wondering...
Lauren

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] PS on underwear
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> Sorry, Teddy.
> 
> I think I don't understand what you were trying to say, if it wasn't 
> about velcro vs. sticky tape.

Just  that it's not so surprising, in terms of the costs/technology,
that a manufacturer would go to the trouble of putting *velcro* on a
disposable item when you consider that they do it on other disposable
items - like baby's nappies. 

Not an important comment in any way

Teddy

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From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] PS on underwear
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> > Sorry, Teddy.
> > 
> > I think I don't understand what you were trying to say, if it wasn't
> > about velcro vs. sticky tape.
> 
> I think Teddy was saying that from a product development 
> point of view, it was logical enough, since these are similar 
> products and both disposable. No doubt that was in the mind 
> of the person who thought of using Velcro instead of adhesive 
> on wings -- e.g. "they loved it on nappies..."

Pretty much - 'though you put it more clearly than I did.

> (BTW, I also think that sanitary protection counts as 
> historical costume and is perfectly on-topic for this list. 
> It's a wearable item, and we're talking about its historical 
> development. This thread has compared current solutions to 
> those of the 14th and 19th centuries.)

Absolutely

Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Member/Bookshelf
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Cynthia - 

Welcome to the list. My focus is 1840-1870 and I have a lengthy list of books on costume, textiles, needlework, 
etiquette, etc.  If you like, I can email you a copy off list (Word file, approximately 30 pages).

Carolann Schmitt
cschmitt@genteelarts.com
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Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 3-6, 2005


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>Just out of curiousity, when did elastic start to be used in clothing?
>
>Dianne

It was patented as early as 1820. The earliest examples I've found on extant garments are c.late 1840s-early 1850s. 
Early elastic was usually cotton covered and was not very durable; prone to stretching, drying out, or turning sticky. 
It's not until the 1870s-1880s that the production process is refined sufficiently for it to be widely used.

Carolann Schmitt
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Court Garb in hot weather (WAS:current and future work?)
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In a message dated 9/10/04 4:16:31 AM Central Daylight Time, Teddy@mdx.ac.uk 
writes:
Avoid synthetic fibres.,,, thick/heavy natural fibres are often much
cooler to wear than thin synthetics which don't let your skin breath.

This is, in my opinion, the number one Golden Rule for costuming in any warm 
climate.  Even a blend that is *mostly* natural but *some* synthetic, will 
cook you compared to all natural fibers.  Avoid modern broadcloths for shirts and 
chemises; they're 65/35.  Go with muslin or all-cotton, or pure silk if you 
can afford it and want to.

Another tip is to build/develop your costume so that there's as little 
layering on your forearms and neck as possible.  Pulse points such as the neck, 
forearms and backs of the legs can be cooled and thus cool off your whole body; 
holding a cool compress or ice to the inside of your wrists works miracles at 
cooling off your bloodstream.

While it is definitely important to drink water, it is equally important to 
EAT.  Every year at faire, we have young ladies go down right and left, who 
protest to our scolding, "but I drank water ALL DAY!"  You have to replace more 
than just your body's water; you also have to replace the minerals and 
nutrients that are depleted through sweat.  

Take vitamins (daily, not just on faire mornings), try to intersperse 
something like gatorade that will replenish electrolytes, and eat proteins and 
all-natural carbs like fruits (bananas are excellent, they replace your potassium).  
Breads, sugars and other starchy carbs will not help; they'll make the 
situation worse.  Go for a turkey leg rather than a stuffed baked potato.


"Education is a progressive discovery of our own ignorance." -Will Durant
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Surviving Faire & re-enactments in Court Costume,
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 08:53:10 -0600
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One thing I don't understand about the Renn Faire weather issue is why 
they aren't held in the winer months, especially in states like 
California where the weather is pleasant year-around.  Or they could be 
situated indoors like Dickens faires or a combo of indoors-outdoors.  
Has anyone ever considered  one of those options?

Sylrog

On Sep 10, 2004, at 3:49 AM, Kate M Bunting wrote:

>>>> smnco37@yahoo.co.uk 10/09/2004 09:03:52 >>> wrote:
>> I have read somewhere else - and wish I could recall where - that
>> late medieval England went through the descending side of a climate
>> cycle; and was generally a little colder and rather wetter than the
>> current cycle in 2004.
>
> Yes, the "mini Ice Age" has been discussed before on this list. Don't
> forget also that many posters are referring to regions of the USA where
> summers are hotter than in modern Britain, let alone the 16th - 17th
> century Britain the clothing was originally designed for.
>
>
>
>
>
> Kate Bunting
> Library, University of Derby
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] PS on underwear
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: <cschmitt@genteelarts.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, September 10, 2004 9:52 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] PS on underwear


> >Just out of curiousity, when did elastic start to be used in clothing?
> >
> >Dianne
>
> It was patented as early as 1820. The earliest examples I've found on
extant garments are c.late 1840s-early 1850s.

Wow. I never realized it was used that early.

I love this list.

Dianne


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Surviving Faire & re-enactments in Court Costume,
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In a message dated 9/10/04 9:50:25 AM Central Daylight Time, sylvia@ntw.net 
writes:
One thing I don't understand about the Renn Faire weather issue is why 
they aren't held in the winer months, especially in states like 
California where the weather is pleasant year-around. 
I think, to a certain extent, it's simply a function of the schedules 
required by the vendors and performers.  Winter months are usually considered at-home 
or family time, due to the holidays that are involved; most people want to be 
close to home for Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year's.  The people who 
travel the ren faire circuit constantly as sellers and entertainers are no 
exception; yet without them, there would BE no faires.

Also, most faires are locked into their time slot by their contracts with 
their performers.  Most performers at larger faires are not "local;" they travel 
and do this almost year-round, and they can only be at one faire at a time.  
The schedules were set up long ago, and now there's very little wriggle room, 
because in order for a faire to change its time slot, it would also have to 
change the yearly schedules of every vendor and performer it has.  

"Education is a progressive discovery of our own ignorance." -Will Durant
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Subject: [h-cost] Surviving faire
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I've been doing Bristol RenFaire in Wisconsin for the last 15 years and
I
have been frequently heard to bemoan the fact that someone in the past
decided that High Summer in the MidWest was a good time to do full
Elizabethans! 

Karen
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Or an Entertainment Director who focuses on his 'picture' without
thinking about the practicalities of things like how HOT it can get in
Kansas on Labor Day!  DH was King for several years at our local faire
and the ED dictated that he *had* to have a fur collar on his greatcoat.
 Now this wasn't to bad in October when the temperature was actually
below freezing one morning before cannon but on the first Saturday it
was 110 degrees.  He finally just took it off part-way through the day
and I don't think the ED dared say anything since we had a couple of
kids go down with the heat.

Lots of good advice has been given here for surviving faire in any sort
of costume.  I strongly second the natural fabrics (been trying to drum
it into our kids for years!) and, with the fabric resources on the web,
even linen is very affordable now.  Staying hydrated and eating sensibly
is another, often overlooked, way to deal with heat.  Also, know
yourself!  I know I don't do heat well and, much as I enjoy creating
court costumes, I have absolutely no desire to stand around in one all
day so all my characters at faire have been working or middle class. 
Much more comfortable :).

Unfortunately I must also agree that rennies are not always good at
paying their costuming bills, or appreciating the value of what they are
paying for.  Part of this I chalk up to the large number of young
performers we have but also, in some ways, I think it is an acting
mentality as some (not all) of the performers I have worked with just
see a costume as another disposable prop and don't appreciate the work
that goes into it, or take proper care of it once it is in their hands.

All that being said, I'm starting my 28th year with faire this year!
Catherine

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In a message dated 9/10/04 10:05:45 AM Central Daylight Time, 
ckinsey@kumc.edu writes:
Also, know
yourself!

Another HUGE and very valid point!  I forgot about that LOL.  The lady who 
plays Anne Boleyn at Scarborough, is simply an amazing human being with the 
constitution of an iron tank, who never seems to be affected by the heat (even in 
her astounding costumes) and looks every bit as cool and beautiful at closing 
gate as she did at opening.  Every day.  No matter how hot it is.  I hate her. 
:o)  

Because I'm with you - no matter how much I love my court costumes, I can 
only do them for a few weekends before they're abandoned for gypsy or peasant 
wear.  I just can't stand it, no matter how much I eat, drink, rest or stay in 
the shade, and by eleven in the morning I normally look like a drowned raccoon 
if I've been so ill-advised as to try to wear makeup.  

I remember many a day in May where I've simply sat like a bump on a log, 
trying to move not one single inch in any direction, or I was afraid I might 
simply melt into a puddle in the midst of my cotton velveteen gown and the only way 
they'd know what happened to me is if they recognized the dress lying there.

"Education is a progressive discovery of our own ignorance." -Will Durant
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 10:24:44 -0500
From: pixel <goddessandqueen@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
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What I'm working on:

I have a new 13th c. robe that needs to be done in a month--chemise,
kirtle, surcoat, shoes, hose, veil & wimple. Thankfully I'm not
responsible for the metal bits.

Then there's a half-finished Anglo-Saxon pattern tablet-woven strap
for a hunting horn, that article on underwear, an article on 13th c.
overgarments, a birchbark dye project that needs to be finished before
it's too cold to work outside, and more 13th c. clothes. And a class
we're teaching in November on how to display your social class with
your clothing, etc.

And my sewing machine needs to go in for service because the tension
is seriously and profoundly f%@#d, but I can't do much hand-sewing
because of tendonitis in my thumbs and index fingers--unless someone
knows how to sew with only their pinky and ring fingers and is willing
to teach me. :-)

Margaret/Pixel
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 08:18:29 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost]  rag doll prices (was RE: [h-cost] current and
	future work?)
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	.ac.uk>
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>http://www.clothdollconnection.com
>
>Thanks!  By he look of the prices on the dolls that are most similar to
>mine, my "outdated" prices are still in the right ballpark.

Hope you saw my dolls there when you looked, tho I don't have any prices 
posted.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 08:44:05 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: snow (was Re: [h-cost] Surviving Faire & re-enactments in
	Court Costume,
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>I have also been out in
>winter weather wearing Elizabethans and been remarkably comfortable in my
>basic kit. With the addition of a waist length shoulder cape and some
>flannel drawers instead of cotton, I'd be good to well below freezing.

My old court outfit was good in the snow when I took it to Alaska one October.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 08:44:15 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: rain (was Re: [h-cost] Surviving Faire & re-enactments in
	Court Costume,
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 <s14186bd.099@CSV6.derby.ac.uk>
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Status: RO


>One thing I don't understand about the Renn Faire weather issue is why 
>they aren't held in the winer months, especially in states like California 
>where the weather is pleasant year-around.

Rain is why.  Rain is so uncommon in California that many people act like 
they're scared of it.  They run from a few drops, pop their umbrellas at 
the first sign of a sprinkle, and generally act like they're going to 
melt.  (I can say that - I was born in rainy Oregon, where we don't tan, we 
rust!)

It's bad enough getting our costumes indoors on a wet morning before 
Dickens' Fair, but few people would show up at an outdoors event, 
participants or customers, if they even thought it might rain.  In fact, 
last year someone tried an outdoor Dickens' event in Oakland, in what I 
would call a light drizzle, and it was almost entirely unattended (except 
for those of us who were paid to be there, and they let us go home early).

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 11:57:15 -0400
From: Joanna Hobbins <joanna.hobbins@mail.mcgill.ca>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
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Status: RO

Let's see,

1 12th c bliaut
5 tunics
4 surcoats
8 linen coifs - three of them padded
2 vikings pants
3 pairs hose
2 braies

that's sewing.  I have 4 more tablet woven belts to do, 2 pairs of socks w/
naalbinding, then there is the maille armour:

3 hauberks
2 haubergeons
1 byrnie
1 sabatons
1 camaille
2 coifs
1 bishop's mantle

Fortunately fighting season is over next month and won't start up again until
may so I have plenty of time to finish them.

Other plans include getting a rigid heddle loom and learning to weave on that,
plus I plan to get more into leatherwork.

Plus I think I want to make some more work garb for myself.  But that's probably
a wistful dream.

cheers,

Joanna
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From: Joanna Hobbins <joanna.hobbins@mail.mcgill.ca>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?
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Status: RO

Let's see,

1 12th c bliaut
5 tunics
4 surcoats
8 linen coifs - three of them padded
2 vikings pants
3 pairs hose
2 braies

that's sewing.  I have 4 more tablet woven belts to do, 2 pairs of socks w/
naalbinding, then there is the maille armour:

3 hauberks
2 haubergeons
1 byrnie
1 sabatons
1 camaille
2 coifs
1 bishop's mantle

Fortunately fighting season is over next month and won't start up again until
may so I have plenty of time to finish them.

Other plans include getting a rigid heddle loom and learning to weave on that,
plus I plan to get more into leatherwork.

Plus I think I want to make some more work garb for myself.  But that's probably
a wistful dream.

cheers,

Joanna
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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I found some 100% linen at a decent price. My problem however is the horrible banana yellow color. Can I use rit color remover? Perhaps another removal suggestion? I really want this linen!

Happy Friday, ~Angelique

		
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] PS on underwear
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I agree with Sue; some people have offered waaaaayyy too much information on
this subject.


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sue Clemenger
Sent: Friday, September 10, 2004 5:37 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] PS on underwear

And with that (and I'm NOT picking on Teddy!), can we *please* drop this 
topic? It's long since lost any connection, however remote, to 
historical costuming.  I'm about ready to offer a bribe to the first 
person who manages to make this thread go *away!*
--sue




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Ladies and Gentlemen:

For those of us on digest, could you please try and remember to SNIP your
posts?  I have now received Sylvia Rognstad's missive to the list 7 TIMES.
NOT HER FAULT, just comes from top posting and replying without snippage.

Thanks!

Ro, who's eyes are in BAD enough shape right now....

http://www.livejournal.com/users/ladyrowansplace/

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: surviving heat in heavy costume...
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At 9:53 AM -0600 9/10/04, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>While it is definitely important to drink water, it is equally important to
>EAT.  Every year at faire, we have young ladies go down right and left, who
>protest to our scolding, "but I drank water ALL DAY!"  You have to 
>replace more
>than just your body's water; you also have to replace the minerals and
>nutrients that are depleted through sweat.
YYup and if you want to really help--build up your potassium reserves 
several WEEKS before the event by eating things high in potassium 
such as bananas...They make a product such as Slo K for animals that 
does the same thing--keeps them going in the heat and prevents 
cramping. You want to supplement with a food instead of a concentrate 
because too much potassium is a *bad* thing...
Ta
Carol, all pumped up and ready to go and now stayin home to hand walk 
the poor injured whippet :-(
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 09:57:30 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: surviving heat in heavy costume...
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
To: h costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Bananas are great for potassium, and Carol's warning about overdoing the
potassium is very important. The reality is that any faire that's so hot
that you need the potassium will just kill bananas (plus you can't
necessarily eat them in front of any audience and keep your credibility). My
favorite potassium load for faire is cantalope. I can cut it up at home and
keep it in a plastic container in the cooler until needed and it's cold and
refreshing and just what's needed by early afternoon.

LynnD


fastusminimus <cahuff@mindspring.com> said:

> YYup and if you want to really help--build up your potassium reserves
> several WEEKS before the event by eating things high in potassium
> such as bananas...They make a product such as Slo K for animals that
> does the same thing--keeps them going in the heat and prevents
> cramping. You want to supplement with a food instead of a concentrate
> because too much potassium is a *bad* thing...
> Ta
> Carol, all pumped up and ready to go and now stayin home to hand walk
> the poor injured whippet :-(
> -- 
> Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linen/ Dye removal
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 11:06:56 -0600
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You could use Rit color remover or plain chlorine bleach.

Sylrog

On Sep 10, 2004, at 10:02 AM, ~Angelique wrote:

>
> I found some 100% linen at a decent price. My problem however is the 
> horrible banana yellow color. Can I use rit color remover? Perhaps 
> another removal suggestion? I really want this linen!
>
> Happy Friday, ~Angelique
>
> 		
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Slightly OT -- sewing polartec
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 13:38:34 -0400
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The following is from Sandra Betzina's _More Fabric Savvy_; hope this
answers some of your questions.
                    -Helen/Aidan


     Fleece, pages 64-65

      Fabric Fact
      Synthetic fleece is a knit fabric that stretches on the crossgrain. It
sheds water and holds body heat, but allows perspiration to escape. Polar
Fleece by Malden Mills. is the best-quality fleece since it pills and
stretches the least. It also feels denser and has a deeper pile. In generic
brand fleece, look for the "anti-pill" factor. Some stores are now carrying
a fleece that is 80% silk, 13% polyester, and 7% viscose for about $25 a
yard. This fleece is denser with a deeper pile.

      Suitable For
      Sweatshirts, pull-on pants, short cropped jackets, vest, even A-line
skirts. To prevent a skirt from sticking to thighs, line with lingerie nylon
tricot. Fleece is comfortable and warm and survives years of abuse.

      Sewing Tips
      Stayingstitching stretches fleece. Stabilize necklines with 1/4-inch
wide twill tape cut to size from the pattern tissue. Stabilize crotch and
shoulder seams with 1/4-inch wide clear elastic. Hand baste. If you notice a
seam stretching as you sew, place finger behind presser foot as with easing.
Finger press darts to one side and topstitch to flatten.

      Preshrink
      Not necessary. After construction, machine-wash inside out along or
with other fleece garments in cool water, gentle cycle, using liquid (not
powdered) detergent. Machine-dry on low setting or let hang dry. Do not
dry-clean.

      Layout
      "With nap" layout, double thickness. To determine right side of
fabric, pull on cross-grain; fabric curls to wrong side. Be consistent with
which side of the fabric you use, as the pile height may differ. Use pattern
weights.

      Marking
      Chalk, fabric markers. Identify wrong side with tape or chalk.

      Cutting
      Scissors or large rotary cutter. If you are using a pattern not
specifically designed for fleece, cut top collar 1/4 inch bigger and round
off collar points so it can be turned smoothly. Cut with a 1/4 inch seam
allowance, or cut a regular width seam allowance and trim it down after
sewing.

      Interfacing
      None, except for zippers and behind closures. Use non-fusible
interfacing such as silk organza in the seam allowance since the pressing
required to fuse a fusible will crush the nap.

      Thread
      Good-quality polyester.

      Needle
      70/10 H, 80/12 H 75/11 HS. Fleece is not needle particular.

      Stitch Length
      3.0 mm straight stitch or long serger stitch. Use stretch stitch in
crotch seams.

      Presser Foot
      Satin stitch foot (also known as embroidery foot) eliminates wavy,
stretched seams where regular construction is used.

      Seam Finish
      For a durable, attractive finish, finger-press seam open and topstitch
with a double-needle ZWI stretch 4.0 mm from the right side, straddling seam
as you topstitch. Trim seam allowances close to stitching. Or construct with
4-thread overlock and lengthen stitch slightly. Use differential feed if you
have it. If not, sew with finger behind presser foot as with easing. (See
#13 on p. 206.)

      Pressing
      No pressing; fabric melts.

      Topstitching
      Topstitch 1/4 inch from edge. Lengthen stitch to 4.0 mm or longer.
(See #10 on p. 211.)

      Closures
      YKK. plastic zippers. Use sew-in interfacing on zipper seam allowance.
Snaps must also be reinforced with sew-in interfacing between layers to
prevent them from pulling out of the fabric. (See #11 on p. 213, #19 on p.
215.) Machine buttonholes stretch out unless you hand-baste a strip of clear
elastic on the wrong side and make the buttonhole through it.

      Hem
      Since fleece does not ravel, edges can be left as is. Other options
include pinking, top-stitching with double needle, overlocking with
decorative thread on needles and woolly nylon on loopers, binding with faux
leather or a knit cut on the crossgrain or blanket-stitching on the serger
or by hand. Ribbing is also popular. (See #32 on p.221.)


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Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> Hi, just curious about what your projekts will be for the next months.

Nothing too exciting. I have a customer who wants assorted ren-fest 
clothing for himself and his family, they are requesting new items about 
every two weeks.

We haven't decided what we will do for Halloween. Probably just pull 
something that I already have out of my costume closet. My costuming 
partner in crime is getting married in early November, so we haven't had 
much time to plan anything for this year. *She* is working on a wedding 
dress.

I have a dance event in October, too. Again, probably just pull a 
costume out of the closet.



Dawn


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~Angelique wrote:

> I found some 100% linen at a decent price. My problem however is the horrible banana yellow color. Can I use rit color remover? Perhaps another removal suggestion? I really want this linen!
> 

I had some horrid pistachio green linen that I played with last fall. I 
tried the dye remover and got no results, but it overdyed very well.




Dawn



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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Surviving faire
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Catherine Kinsey wrote:


> Also, know
> yourself!  I know I don't do heat well and, much as I enjoy creating
> court costumes, I have absolutely no desire to stand around in one all
> day 

Oh yeah, that's why I don't do opening weekend. Way too hot. The walk 
across the parking lot would do me in.

One thing that comes to mind is that old quote "Only mad dogs and 
Englishmen stand in the noonday sun." If you can get out of the sun, do. 
  I know some sites are better than others about shade, and some folks 
(nobility performing 'court') can't avoid it, but you'd be surprised how 
many folks just stand there getting overheated when seats in the shade 
are nearby and available.

That, and if it's really hot and muggy I just find a place to park and 
watch people go by, rather than exerting myself and inducing heat 
exhaustion.



Dawn



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Surviving faire
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When I hear all these horror stories about wearing court costume to 
summer Renn faires, I'm surprised OSHA or someone else hasn't shut them 
down.  I guess OSHA wouldnt be the right agency, but it sounds so 
extremely unhealthful that I'm beginning to wonder how the faire 
organizers can even allow it without provisions being made for such 
participants, especially the paid ones (like air conditioned booths or 
something to that effect).

On Sep 10, 2004, at 1:07 PM, Dawn wrote:

> Catherine Kinsey wrote:
>
>
>> Also, know
>> yourself!  I know I don't do heat well and, much as I enjoy creating
>> court costumes, I have absolutely no desire to stand around in one all
>> day
>
> Oh yeah, that's why I don't do opening weekend. Way too hot. The walk 
> across the parking lot would do me in.
>
> One thing that comes to mind is that old quote "Only mad dogs and 
> Englishmen stand in the noonday sun." If you can get out of the sun, 
> do.  I know some sites are better than others about shade, and some 
> folks (nobility performing 'court') can't avoid it, but you'd be 
> surprised how many folks just stand there getting overheated when 
> seats in the shade are nearby and available.
>
> That, and if it's really hot and muggy I just find a place to park and 
> watch people go by, rather than exerting myself and inducing heat 
> exhaustion.
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Surviving faire
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
To: h costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Dawn wrote:

SNIP
 
> That, and if it's really hot and muggy I just find a place to park and
> watch people go by, rather than exerting myself and inducing heat
> exhaustion.
> 
And that's exactly why learning to card or spin, even on a drop spindle, or
needlework of any sort is such a great thing to do at a faire. You can find
shade close to the audience and sit there with your goblet of water working
on your needlework and talk to the visitors who really want to know what
you're doing and how. You can cool down and teach and act all at once!

LynnD


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] What you all do with costumes
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This is related to both one of the current topics of discussion and to 
my question about selling costumes.  Maybe it has been discussed before 
at a time when I wasn't a list member, so if it has and you don't wish 
to persue it again please let me know.

I keep noticing your answers to the question posed about current and 
future work and am wondering what all of you out there do with the 
costumes you make.  I guess I'm both curious about the composition of 
this group as well as wondering what other possibilities for 
money-making with costumes there are.  If not involved in the SCA or 
with Renn Faires, what do you do?  Are you in reenactment groups or 
role-playing groups?  Are you into museum work or clothing restoration 
and preservation?  Are you, like me, in theatre?  I'm really very 
curious.  When I first got started in theatre decades ago, that was 
about the only venue available for costumers.  Now the costuming world 
has expanded so much.

If this is of no interest to the group at large or has already been 
covered and you want to write me privately, please do so.  Thank you.

Sylrog

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Subject: [h-cost] RE:  Court Garb in hot weather[ bit long]
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-----Original Message-----
<<<A few suggestions:
Avoid synthetic fibres.,,, thick/heavy natural fibres are often much
cooler to wear than thin synthetics which don't let your skin breath.>>>>

As was said, Linen is the best. Linen/cotton blend and cotton.

<<<<<Hooped farthingales keep the fabric of your gown skirt and underskirt
etc away from your legs so they can stay cool and shaded under there
and you can encourage a breeze underneath by swaying the hoops back and
forth while keeping your upper body still.>>>

I know of one woman who made her hoop skirt out of netting and had a light
weight cotton brocade panel in the front and a panel in the back to
"balance" the weight of the hoop. She said that it helps keep things on the
cool side and no one sees the netting.

<<<<Drink enough water to stop yourself dehydrating.>>>

If water is all you have then drink but you really need something like
Gatorade, power aid or even the SCA vinegar drink Sej...(sp?)once in a
while. I make some vinegaraid when I go camping and I know the weather will
be hot. If you can stand it, tomato juice or V8 juice 8oz every 6 hrs. I was
informed that you should only drink the Gatorade "after" you have been
sweating, not before.
If you are sweating a lot then you need to replenish the vitamins, minerals
and electrolytes that you have sweated out. Drinking water only does not
replace.
Do not drink caffienated beverages as caffeine is a diuretic. If you don't
like bananas try mangos, they may not have as much as the bananas but they
have potassium.

<<Some people slip ice-packs into their bodices to help them cool down.
Some build in pockets for said icepacks>>

And you can take snack size ziplock bags, fill with 1/2 - 3/4 water, freeze,
then use.

<<<<A fine mister-spray filled with cold water can work wonders sprayed on
yor face when the heat gets a bit too much.
Hope this helps

Teddy>>>

They have ice trays that make ice cubes that you can put into liter bottles.
If you have a spray bottle with a wide enough opening put some ice in it. or
the night before put the bottle half full in the freezer, take out in the
morning, add water and let melt. Also, if you don't wear makeup, take some
washcloths wet them (option: wetting them with mint water) but not
dripping/soaking wet, stick them in folded in a ziplock bag and freeze them.
Put them in your cooler and pull them out and pat your face with this and
place on neck and wrists. Do not wipe your face unless your sure there are
no ice slivers that can cut you. Also, keeping a bunch of these washcloth
bags on the top of the stuff in your cooler in a layer style, this will help
keep your stuff underneath cooler longer. There is also on the market a
portable fine mister that you add water and ice and pump and mist.

Finally, if you are constantly in the sun and you have a very nice court
dress, though it will cut some of the breathability  of the fabric down, you
might want to invest in a UV protectant spray so that your fabric will not
sun bleach so fast.

De
Note: perhaps, though it is not life threatening, people can say what they
do for those wet/damp weekends as well as the brisk weekends.

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Sylvia Rognstad wrote:

>  If not involved in the SCA or 
> with Renn Faires, what do you do?  Are you in reenactment groups or 
> role-playing groups?  Are you into museum work or clothing restoration 
> and preservation?  Are you, like me, in theatre?  I'm really very 
> curious. 

I've done all the above at one time or another. I started in theatre, 
went to LARP, but it was in the SCA where I found a genuine interest in 
costume and clothing history  -- and my finances got a lot better about 
then, too. I've flirted with local SCA (not my original group) and 
Re-enactment groups, but as it is mostly a social thing and it hasn't 
'clicked' here for me lately it's just been Ren-fests and dance events. 
I attend the occasion sci-fi/fantasy/game con in costume, too. Then of 
course, there's Halloween. :)



Dawn



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Garb in cold/wet weather
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> Note: perhaps, though it is not life threatening, people can say what they
> do for those wet/damp weekends as well as the brisk weekends.

Wool. I've done outdoor events in January in New England in the snow. 
They also tend to do winter events in buildings without heat in the SCA 
up there. Wool socks, wool longjohns, wool tunics. Scotchguard on the 
boots. I had a wool cloak with Scotchguard for a while, and it was 
fantastic at Pennsic, which is famous for getting very wet and then cold 
at night. While the cloak eventually soaked through the wool kept me 
warm when the temperature dropped (wool insulates even when wet). It 
dried quickly in the sun as soon as the rain stopped. I gave up the 
cloak, though, because too much heat escapes out of it if you have to do 
anything. You can't keep your arms wrapped up in it forever. So now I 
just go with wool tunics, doublets, etc.

If wool bothers you, get some of the high-tech insulating underwear they 
sell to campers and only wear the wool as outer layers.

Know where your temperature regulation points are. It could be your 
hands, feet, head, or neck. Keep those areas covered. I can go without a 
hat or gloves, but the feet and neck must stay warm or I freeze. YMMV.

At ren-fest when the rain sets in I think the most important thing is to 
have dry feet. Seam-seal and Scotchguard the boots. Invest in plastic 
boot liners if necessary. Keep dry socks and spare shoes in the car. If 
you expect rain, add a thermos of hot tea for the ride home :)




Dawn




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> I am "clothing" a group of women for a re-enactment
> set in America in 1845, and another bunch for another
> re-enactment set in 1853.

This is not my main period of interest so I'm not aware of the sources out
there, but you might want to take a look at Janet Arnold's Patterns of
Fashion.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Surviving Faire & re-enactments in Court Costume,
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> I've been doing Bristol RenFaire in Wisconsin for the last 15 years and I
> have been frequently heard to bemoan the fact that someone in the past
> decided that High Summer in the MidWest was a good time to do full
> Elizabethans! As far as I know not only didn't the Elizabethans ever deal
> with temperatures like this, modern Brits don't deal with temps like this
> either.

No, but the Italians and Spanish probably had to deal with temperatures like
that, and had clothing that covered as much of the body as English clothing
did.
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From: Claudine <claudine_on_the_net@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Surviving faire
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What horror stories? All I've read is good advice for
dealing with heat, which apply no matter what your
wearing at a faire, or what your doing at all in hot
weather.

It seems to me that summer faires are, to use a widely
different example, no different than the 100 mile
rides that bicycle clubs put on every weekend
throughout the summer and often well into the winter:
play at your own risk. I've seen people sitting on the
side of the road with heat exhaustion, or flat on
their backs after a crash. These incidences aren't the
club's fault, and no one is going to tell bicycle
clubs that they can't sponsor rides because it's hot
out.

Anyway, to get back to the topic and then back to
lurking....

The performers I met at the faire this year really
enjoy what they're doing, and I enjoy watching them
(well, I enjoy seeing anyone in costume), and isn't
that what the faire is all about? They *all* handled
the heat adequately and gracefully. Heat is something
you just accept and prepare for; if you can't, then
don't play.

Ok, I'll be quiet now. :)



Claudine

--- Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net> wrote:

> When I hear all these horror stories about wearing
> court costume to 
> summer Renn faires, I'm surprised OSHA or someone
> else hasn't shut them 
> down.  I guess OSHA wouldnt be the right agency, but
> it sounds so 
> extremely unhealthful that I'm beginning to wonder
> how the faire 
> organizers can even allow it without provisions
> being made for such 
> participants, especially the paid ones (like air
> conditioned booths or 
> something to that effect).
> 
> On Sep 10, 2004, at 1:07 PM, Dawn wrote:
> 
> > Catherine Kinsey wrote:
> >
> >
> >> Also, know
> >> yourself!  I know I don't do heat well and, much
> as I enjoy creating
> >> court costumes, I have absolutely no desire to
> stand around in one all
> >> day
> >
> > Oh yeah, that's why I don't do opening weekend.
> Way too hot. The walk 
> > across the parking lot would do me in.
> >
> > One thing that comes to mind is that old quote
> "Only mad dogs and 
> > Englishmen stand in the noonday sun." If you can
> get out of the sun, 
> > do.  I know some sites are better than others
> about shade, and some 
> > folks (nobility performing 'court') can't avoid
> it, but you'd be 
> > surprised how many folks just stand there getting
> overheated when 
> > seats in the shade are nearby and available.
> >
> > That, and if it's really hot and muggy I just find
> a place to park and 
> > watch people go by, rather than exerting myself
> and inducing heat 
> > exhaustion.
> >
> >
> >
> > Dawn
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: surviving heat in heavy costume...
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Bring powdered Gatorade and mix it up however you like it. Quinine also
helps with heat--and for some reason, you'll taste really BAD to
mosquitos!

Arlys



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What you all do with costumes
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On Fri, 10 Sep 2004, Sylvia Rognstad wrote:

> This is related to both one of the current topics of discussion and to 
> my question about selling costumes.  Maybe it has been discussed before 
> at a time when I wasn't a list member, so if it has and you don't wish 
> to persue it again please let me know.

We get new members all the time, so always worth refreshing people's
memory. For one thing, it helps people remember that there are a *lot* of
different purposes, goals, and ways of looking at costume represented on
this list.

> I keep noticing your answers to the question posed about current and 
> future work and am wondering what all of you out there do with the 
> costumes you make.  I guess I'm both curious about the composition of 
> this group as well as wondering what other possibilities for 
> money-making with costumes there are.  If not involved in the SCA or 
> with Renn Faires, what do you do?  Are you in reenactment groups or 
> role-playing groups?  Are you into museum work or clothing restoration 
> and preservation?

You'll find all those types on this list. I'd say a majority of the people
here do re-enactment or dress-up events (SCA, living history, Faire, LARP,
CostumeCon). Some make costumes to sell to people who do these things.
Some collect or trade in vintage costume. Some, like you, are in theater
or film costuming.

I'm probably an exception. I research and lecture on medieval costume, to
academic audiences and also to other groups (re-enactors, historic fiction
writers, whoever is interested). I do sew costumes, but mostly to test
theories and display examples for my lecture audiences. I don't wear
costumes myself often, but I do make costumes for people who do active
re-enactment and the like, so they can "field-test" for me and so I can
see how a cut works on a particular figure type.

--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] Re:of bananas and other treats....
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At 12:01 PM -0600 9/10/04, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>Bananas are great for potassium, and Carol's warning about overdoing the
>potassium is very important. The reality is that any faire that's so hot
>that you need the potassium will just kill bananas (plus you can't
>necessarily eat them in front of any audience and keep your credibility). My
>favorite potassium load for faire is cantalope. I can cut it up at home and
>keep it in a plastic container in the cooler until needed and it's cold and
>refreshing and just what's needed by early afternoon.

But what about that banana (or skin) they just found this spring in a 
rubbish pit that was like Tudorish era??? <VBEG> I think expanding 
knowledge is fun <G>

But (smacking head) I forgot that melons could be period....and 
frozen are just yummy...

Ta
Carol
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 14:47:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linen/ Dye removal
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> You could use Rit color remover or plain chlorine bleach.
>
> Sylrog

I wouldn't recommend the chlorine bleach.  Bleach breaks down the fabric
fibers and can weaken your fabric.

I had personal experience with this recently when I tried to bleach out
the stains in my kitchen sink.  I placed a cloth in the sink, poured
bleach on it and let it sit overnight.  It was still intact when I put it
in the wash machine but when I pulled the cloth out of the dryer, it had
many large holes in it where the bleach weakened the fibers.

If it were me, I would try overdying your linen.  Yellow is the component
to many other colors that could be nice...gold (add more yellow and a
touch of brown), green (add blue), brown (add blue & red), orange (add
red), etc.  If you are not sure what color you might get, play with some
watercolor paints.  Mix other colors with a banana yellow and see what you
get.  It is actually quite fun to overdye as long as you aren't trying to
achieve a specific color!

Diana Habra
www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linen/ Dye removal
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> I found some 100% linen at a decent price. My problem however is the 
> horrible banana yellow color. Can I use rit color remover? Perhaps another 
> removal suggestion? I really want this linen!

Remember the Barbie Pink linen quite a few of us picked up at JoAnne's a 
couple of years ago? I know Robin was using her for her demo fittings - at 
least, she was when she did one after her Boston lecture.  There was quite a 
discussion of How To Remove the Hot Pink Color.

What WAS the consensus on how to change that color?   I found I still have 
some. Rowena 


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What you all do with costumes
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HI Sylvia,  hi folks... Like Robin I am an avid reconstructionist / 
archeologist /  historian.

Although I do participate in the SCA - hey I gotta wear this stuff 
somewhere - I research and recreate clothing of the Renaissance as my first 
love.  I just love trolling through inventories, wills,  charters, and 
books of trade to find the economic influences on clothing.  And my second 
passion is hand work,  sewing, plain sewing, openwork, linen work, 
drawnwork - so the creation of clothing using historically accurate methods 
and materials is just a natural compliment to my desire to understand the 
clothing.

And I'll take this moment to add a tiny note about one of my 
personal  'teeth grinders' -  The use of the word 'garb' in the SCA - 
Although many will see it as a perfectly fine word - Its meaning, 
especially in the SCA, is colored to mean something unreal, temporary, or 
costume-like.  I prefer to use the word clothing for the pieces I 
make.  Indeed,  my efforts are not shoddy, temporary, make-do or to be 
confused with theatrical clothing.

And when did I sneak up onto this soapbox...
well,  that was unexpected.  ; >

Have fun all...
And Robin,  I'll finally get to hear you lecture.
Hoping to meet you.
Bridgette  /  Mari

Webmaster@vet.cornell.edu

Mari Stewart
College of Veterinary Medicine
Cornell University 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linen/ Dye removal
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On Fri, 10 Sep 2004, Home Ec wrote:

> > I found some 100% linen at a decent price. My problem however is the 
> > horrible banana yellow color. Can I use rit color remover? Perhaps another 
> > removal suggestion? I really want this linen!
> 
> Remember the Barbie Pink linen quite a few of us picked up at JoAnne's
> a couple of years ago? I know Robin was using her for her demo
> fittings - at least, she was when she did one after her Boston
> lecture.  There was quite a discussion of How To Remove the Hot Pink
> Color.
> 
> What WAS the consensus on how to change that color?  I found I still
> have some. Rowena

I bought a ton of this stuff (and I'm still using it for fittings!). The
color varied slightly from bolt to bolt. I bleached down one of the pieces
to a nice powder pink, and someone else got a pale peach out of hers.

To my knowledge, linen normally doesn't mind bleaching, at least as done
in the washer with the bleach heavily diluted in the water. I wouldn't
pour bleach directly on it. Cotton, now -- I've known cotton to go to
holes after too much bleach exposure. And of course don't get bleach
anywhere near an animal product such as wool or silk. I have a little cup
of bleach on the counter right now, busily dissolving the wool in a swatch
so I can see whether it's 100% or a blend.

--Robin

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Garb in cold/wet weather
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 22:16:32 +0000
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Greetings!  Yes I agree wool is one of my favorite fibers to work with for all garb except the underwear (where I use linen).  The correct weight of wool on even a hot summer day is better than *any* synthetic!  No matter how pretty the fabric design of the sythetic fabric, it does not even begin to replace the comfort and breatheablility of the wool.
Just my thoughts on it...
--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 
Emer's Needle Wares


-------------- Original message -------------- 

> 
> Wool. I've done outdoor events in January in New England in the snow. 
> Dawn 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: surviving heat in heavy costume...
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 22:21:36 +0000
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OhYES!!!  Tonic water actually tastes *wonderful* on a hot day.  If you don't like the tartness, you can mix it with cranberry or a cranberry blend juice drink (recommended by my doctor - no less!!).  This is my favorite kind of drink on hot days.  I find that I 'twitch' less at night when I have a 12 oz glass of tonic water mixed with cranberry juice...and a side benefit is that if there is a tendancy of UTI's the cranberry juice helps keeps the Ph levels ok.


--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 
Emer's Needle Wares


-------------- Original message -------------- 

> Bring powdered Gatorade and mix it up however you like it. Quinine also 
> helps with heat--and for some reason, you'll taste really BAD to 
> mosquitos! 
> 
> Arlys 
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At 09:02 AM 9/10/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>I found some 100% linen at a decent price. My problem however is the 
>horrible banana yellow color. Can I use rit color remover? Perhaps another 
>removal suggestion? I really want this linen!
>
>Happy Friday, ~Angelique


Dye remover won't remove the industrial dyed linen, not fully. It may fade 
it a little, but not all the way. I suggest if you want it, to overdye it 
into another color.

Kimiko


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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 14:33:36 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Surviving Faire & re-enactments in Court Costume, 
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At 09:16 AM 9/10/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>I also note that at least in the biography of Eleanor of Aquitaine I just
>finished reading, "court" was held at Xmas, not midsummer. So maybe they
>only got dressed up in winter?
>
>Just wondering...
>Lauren


Hi Lauren

I recently read that book as well.

For Elizabethan times, court was held in winter because that is when the 
Queen would return from her summer progresses out of London, and Parliament 
be held and all that. She went on summer progresses to avoid the plague 
that often rampaged London during the summer. While she was out, most of 
her courtiers would return to their estates to take care of them, unless 
Elizabeth had need of them. I think the same occurred with Henry's court as 
well.

And I have always wondered if the fine full court suits they are wearing as 
seen in their portraits, would be similar to us wearing our Sunday finest 
for our modern photo shoots, which we don't wear the rest of the week. 
Because it would be wonderful to be able to dress down a bit in court to 
something cooler, but still look "noble" and without having to resort to 
peasant wear.

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Owner ~ DreamTime Studios
http://www.dreamtime-studios.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

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At 08:53 AM 9/10/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>One thing I don't understand about the Renn Faire weather issue is why 
>they aren't held in the winer months, especially in states like California 
>where the weather is pleasant year-around.  Or they could be situated 
>indoors like Dickens faires or a combo of indoors-outdoors.
>Has anyone ever considered  one of those options?
>
>Sylrog

Hi Sylrog,

In Central California, our local faires are held from March - July. 
August-September has some faires along the coast, so it is cooler there, 
and the coastal breezes are nice. Even Casa de Fruita has breezes, and yet 
I have heard people complain how it would be "too hot" there. Not as hot as 
where I live, believe me.

October has more faires (nearly every weekend in October) in the central 
area (Fresno, Folsom, & Casa de Fruita still, coming to mind) and the 
weather is cooler. November, there is one at Kearney Park, and it almost 
always rains there. Customers don't like the rain, even tho we are the ones 
running around in the mud. November-December switches to Dickens events, 
then early January for 12th Night social gatherings. Nothing much happens 
until March again, except to recoup and make new stuff for the year.

Around in Central California, it is very foggy during the winter months, 
especially right after it rains. Since most events are outdoors on grassy 
areas, when it rains it becomes a bog, and customers don't like to walk in 
bogs, and vendors don't like loosing money with little to no customers. And 
that morning tulle fog sometimes will not lift until late afternoon, or can 
hang around for days.

Why aren't faires held indoors where it is cooler? The cost of renting a 
large enough arena and paying for the A/C, especially on the tight budgets 
most faire producers have. Most of these local faires are fund raisers for 
charity, and holding them outdoors at a park or college lawn is cheaper 
than renting a large warehouse and paying the A/C bill for one weekend, and 
security and insurance (which is higher for an event inside). One event in 
Hanford is still free and held at a city park. Also, the ambiance of a 
faire is easier to achieve outdoors with trees, than it is indoors in a 
warehouse building.

There are a lot of factors as to why these are held outdoors. I think the 
biggest I can think of is my memory of my first ren faire, in Agoura Hills 
- Los Angeles. The faire was in a canyon filled with trees (like Novato, 
too). Once you were inside the gates, you could not see any sort of 
"mundane" world, no buildings, no cars, nothing modern... just the faire 
world inside. It was magical for me, and for many faire people, to step 
into this other world and leave your cares behind for a few hours. Modern 
buildings for faires just doesn't have that same appeal. I know of Celtic 
festivals, like in Sonoma/Calaveras that uses both a fair ground buildings, 
with outdoor areas. Not the same ambiance at all. I think many faire 
producers want that kind of ambiance at their events.

my tuppence,

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Owner ~ DreamTime Studios
http://www.dreamtime-studios.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Surviving Faire & re-enactments in Court Costume,
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At 10:49 AM 9/10/2004 +0100, you wrote:
>Yes, the "mini Ice Age" has been discussed before on this list. Don't
>forget also that many posters are referring to regions of the USA where
>summers are hotter than in modern Britain, let alone the 16th - 17th
>century Britain the clothing was originally designed for.
>
>Kate Bunting
>Library, University of Derby


Oh yes I am talking about hot California (avg temps 90+ F.).

Some of my friends once went to Scotland for Tattoo, and they performed the 
streets in full court garb. They said it was so much more comfortable for 
them to perform in full court garb in Scotland during the summer, than it 
ever would be in California, except for maybe the one snow faire we have 
experienced (Lake Tahoe, early July), where it was wonderful to bundle into 
our wool cloaks. In fall/winter we are actually comfortable in garb, court, 
Scots or otherwise. It just rains so much that the customers don't want to 
attend.

And faire definitely isn't for everyone. We rather think some of us are 
kinda nuts to be doing this when it is so very hot, but we have a passion 
for something in faire that keeps bringing us back, faire after faire.

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Owner ~ DreamTime Studios
http://www.dreamtime-studios.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Surviving faire
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At 01:26 PM 9/10/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>When I hear all these horror stories about wearing court costume to summer 
>Renn faires, I'm surprised OSHA or someone else hasn't shut them down.  I 
>guess OSHA wouldnt be the right agency, but it sounds so extremely 
>unhealthful that I'm beginning to wonder how the faire organizers can even 
>allow it without provisions being made for such participants, especially 
>the paid ones (like air conditioned booths or something to that effect).


Provisions are made for participants. There is often one nurse on staff, as 
well as many nurses involved in faire already. Some have EMTs on call or 
even standing by. Water (often with ice) is provided behind every stage. 
And at least in our guilds, we all know the drill, or we should. New comers 
are taught to bring water and appropriate food, and usually watched by more 
experience people who know the signs of heat exhaustion. Our court has full 
repast to make sure everyone eats something once that day, and we encourage 
constant nibbling. We have water bearers who do a great job of making sure 
we are well watered.

And there is usually some building nearby that has A/C for those who need 
it. That's usually where the nurses stations are located, or even actor's 
camps, like at Hanford. Sometimes it is hard getting kids away from them 
and out performing like they should.

There has only been one situation that I know of where a guild leader 
deliberately put the health of his members at risk for a performance in the 
sun, and the rest of the faire rallied together and kept his members safe, 
well watered and fed salty foods, and had a nurse prepped and standing by 
next to the "stage" in case of any problems. Thankfully nothing happened, 
his gig went off well, and he was asked to not come back to that faire by 
the producer. Most guild leaders look out for their members, with food and 
water out at all times, and the health of a person coming first.

I guess you can say that we all know the risks, so we minimize them as best 
we can. And we still have a lot of fun at faire, which is why we keep 
coming back to play.

Kimiko
PS.
My favorite faire food is watermelon... or ushka-melon as we used to call 
them. Not sure if they are period, but a great way to get minerals and 
water in one handy food item.


Kimiko Small
Owner ~ DreamTime Studios
http://www.dreamtime-studios.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What you all do with costumes
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At 01:42 PM 9/10/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>I guess I'm both curious about the composition of this group as well as 
>wondering what other possibilities for money-making with costumes there 
>are.  If not involved in the SCA or with Renn Faires, what do you do?  Are 
>you in reenactment groups or role-playing groups?  Are you into museum 
>work or clothing restoration and preservation?  Are you, like me, in theatre?


I started costuming in high school theatre (early 80s). Then I got into 
gaming, then the SCA and Ren Faires in the same year. SCA took up too much 
time, so I stuck with faires from '87 to '98. I then spent five years doing 
LARPs, and a few years ago quit that, and went back into faires. Now I am 
hoping to make a local business from my skills, but expect to take some 
time to get that really going. Part of my other activities this winter is 
to finish my portfolio, both online and print.

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Owner ~ DreamTime Studios
http://www.dreamtime-studios.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE:  Court Garb in hot weather[ bit long]
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At 02:51 PM 9/10/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Finally, if you are constantly in the sun and you have a very nice court
>dress, though it will cut some of the breathability  of the fabric down, you
>might want to invest in a UV protectant spray so that your fabric will not
>sun bleach so fast.

Ok, I have used Scotchgard in a spray, but a UV protectant? What is that 
called, and where do you find it?

>De
>Note: perhaps, though it is not life threatening, people can say what they
>do for those wet/damp weekends as well as the brisk weekends.

I wear my ropa over my court dress, wear warm gloves, and stay under the 
pavilions as much as possible when it is raining hard. My husband is fond 
of his wool cloak with fur hood. At the winter faire (mountains in July), 
we stayed around the fire pits, with heavy wool cloaks, and shared hot mugs 
of drinks. That was a fun faire, despite the lack of customers that weekend.

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Owner ~ DreamTime Studios
http://www.dreamtime-studios.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linen/ Dye removal
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 17:08:50 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I wouldnt use full strength bleach, but that's not necessary to remove 
color.  I've been very successful using bleach for color removal and no 
damaging of the fibers by using a couple cups.  However, there are 
other products, like the Rit product and something else, whose name 
escapes me now, that one can purchase from Dharma Trading and other dye 
companies.

On Sep 10, 2004, at 3:47 PM, Diana Habra wrote:

>
>> You could use Rit color remover or plain chlorine bleach.
>>
>> Sylrog
>
> I wouldn't recommend the chlorine bleach.  Bleach breaks down the 
> fabric
> fibers and can weaken your fabric.
>
> I had personal experience with this recently when I tried to bleach out
> the stains in my kitchen sink.  I placed a cloth in the sink, poured
> bleach on it and let it sit overnight.  It was still intact when I put 
> it
> in the wash machine but when I pulled the cloth out of the dryer, it 
> had
> many large holes in it where the bleach weakened the fibers.
>
> If it were me, I would try overdying your linen.  Yellow is the 
> component
> to many other colors that could be nice...gold (add more yellow and a
> touch of brown), green (add blue), brown (add blue & red), orange (add
> red), etc.  If you are not sure what color you might get, play with 
> some
> watercolor paints.  Mix other colors with a banana yellow and see what 
> you
> get.  It is actually quite fun to overdye as long as you aren't trying 
> to
> achieve a specific color!
>
> Diana Habra
> www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
> "Everything for the Costumer"
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>

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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What you all do with costumes
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 17:13:40 -0600
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On Sep 10, 2004, at 4:03 PM, Mari Stewart wrote:

>
>

> And I'll take this moment to add a tiny note about one of my personal  
> 'teeth grinders' -  The use of the word 'garb' in the SCA - Although 
> many will see it as a perfectly fine word - Its meaning, especially in 
> the SCA, is colored to mean something unreal, temporary, or 
> costume-like.  I prefer to use the word clothing for the pieces I 
> make.  Indeed,  my efforts are not shoddy, temporary, make-do or to be 
> confused with theatrical clothing.
>
>
And I guess I would have to take exception to your statement calling 
theatrical costuming shoddy, temporary or make-do.   Maybe you're 
thinking of Halloween type costumes or some theatrical costumes that 
are really low quality, but the costumes I've made for high end 
theatres and universities are anything but.  They are neither shoddy 
nor temporary, but are very well constructed and made to last a long 
time.  We use high quality fabrics and trims and they are very well 
researched in terms of history when that is required.

Sylrog

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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 16:31:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linen/ Dye removal
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 And of course don't get bleach
> anywhere near an animal product such as wool or silk. I have a little cup
> of bleach on the counter right now, busily dissolving the wool in a swatch
> so I can see whether it's 100% or a blend.

Hey Robin,

Could you tell me a little bit more about how that works?  I have been
trying to do some fiber verification and that sounds like a more
definitive way to do it (as compared to burn testing).  With the burn
testing, the sizing that they put on the fabric can burn funny and make
you think you have some sythetic content when you really don't.

Diana

Diana Habra
www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: What you all do with costumes 
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I think I've done a bit of all the costume-wearing venues that have been mentioned. Two of the ones I'm vaguely involved in haven't been mentioned yet: I'm currently looking at getting involved in the Sci-Fi convention masquerades, and around here (Silicon Valley) there are a lot of Victorian/regency dance groups that throw balls (Gaskells, Peers, Regency Dance Society). There are also a number of more modern swing and lindy hop groups that admire early 20th century costuming that I've been to a couple times.
	-sunny

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Subject: [h-cost] Bleach test, plus some words on adulturated wool
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I wrote:

> > I have a little cup of bleach on the counter right now, busily
> > dissolving the wool in a swatch
> > so I can see whether it's 100% or a blend.

Diana asked:

> Could you tell me a little bit more about how that works?  I have been
> trying to do some fiber verification and that sounds like a more
> definitive way to do it (as compared to burn testing).  With the burn
> testing, the sizing that they put on the fabric can burn funny and
> make you think you have some sythetic content when you really don't.

Reposting yet again, by popular demand ;-) This question comes up about
once a year. See bottom for some extra info on the current crop of wools.

-----

On Wed, 11 Dec 2002, Bella wrote:

> Can someone please point me in the direction of
> instructions/directions on how to perform the "bleach test"? Sounds
> fascinating and definitely something I'd love to learn. :)

Very easy. I learned it on this list, I think. I knocked the socks off my
manager at the shop, because we had no way before this to differentiate a
pure wool from a wool-and-natural-fiber blend.

Wool and silk dissolve in bleach. Cotton, rayon, and linen do not. Do a
burn test first to identify synthetics (hard bead or plastic residue). If
you have a natural fiber, narrow it down by doing the following.

Cut a small swatch -- half an inch square, or larger if you've got
multiple types of threads (e.g. a stripe or plaid) so you can get samples
of all the threads in one swatch. Put a little bleach (maybe 1/2 inch) in
a small jar (like a baby food jar) or a glass/pyrex custard cup, and add
the swatch. I use a toothpick or plastic spoon to poke the swatch down so
it's wet through. Leave it for a few hours or overnight.

Wool will disappear completely -- the bleach will look perfectly clear.
Silk will disappear but usually leave a bit of residue. (Perhaps that's
the seracin?) Cotton, linen, and rayon will remain intact, though may lose
their color.

A blend will dissolve in parts. For instance, in a wool/rayon blend where
each thread is made of multiple fibers, the wool fibers will dissolve and
you'll end up with a tangled mess of rayon fibers. If you have a fabric
where whole threads of wool or silk are interwoven with whole threads of a
non-animal fiber, such as some plaids or checks, you can get a nice grid
pattern remaining, with empty spots in the interlacing where the animal
fiber used to be. If one fiber is warp and one is weft, you'll end up with
a row of the non-animal fibers lined up neatly in the bottom of the cup.

It's fun to watch this happening. Wool will fizz slightly, like when you
put peroxide on a cut. Check on it every little while and poke it with the
toothpick to break up the fibers if necessary; it can take a while for the
bleach to penetrate a thick fabric.

-----

Now, let me add a note: There seems to be a huge influx of stretch wool
fabrics these days. We just got in a load of wools at the shop, and nearly
every one was adulturated with lycra. Even more disturbing, the
manufacturers still often label these as 100% wool!

A burn test may not reveal the presence of a tiny bit of lycra -- the
burning-rubber smell may be overpowered by the burning-wool smell. In a
bleach test, the lycra appears as tiny flecks of white fibers, as fine as
dust. That is, the fibers break into fragments, but don't disappear
completely like the wool does. (I think over time even the lycra may
dissolve, so don't let it sit for days and then check.) Testing swatches
has saved me from some dreadful errors! Since many wool weaves have some
natural stretch to them, sometimes the "stretch" capability of the
wool-lycra blend is not very obvious till after you wash the fabric ... or
when you wear it.

--Robin


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What you all do with costumes
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On Fri, 10 Sep 2004, Sylvia Rognstad wrote:

> > And I'll take this moment to add a tiny note about one of my personal  
> > 'teeth grinders' -  The use of the word 'garb' in the SCA - Although 
> > many will see it as a perfectly fine word - Its meaning, especially in 
> > the SCA, is colored to mean something unreal, temporary, or 
> > costume-like.  I prefer to use the word clothing for the pieces I 
> > make.  Indeed,  my efforts are not shoddy, temporary, make-do or to be 
> > confused with theatrical clothing.
> >
> And I guess I would have to take exception to your statement calling 
> theatrical costuming shoddy, temporary or make-do.   Maybe you're 
> thinking of Halloween type costumes or some theatrical costumes that 
> are really low quality, but the costumes I've made for high end 
> theatres and universities are anything but.  They are neither shoddy 
> nor temporary, but are very well constructed and made to last a long 
> time.  We use high quality fabrics and trims and they are very well 
> researched in terms of history when that is required.

Then you are to be commended.

FWIW, there is a significant difference in the nature of much theatrical
costume and much re-enactment costume, but it doesn't have to do with
"good" or "bad" quality. (There's good and bad quality in all venues!)
Theater clothing must answer to a specific set of needs. For instance:
Does the actor need to manage a costume change in X minutes between
scenes? If so, you may make the conscious decision to add a hidden zipper
opening rather than use lacing or pins as a functional element. Will the
actors be standing under hot lights for two hours? If so, you may choose
to fake the appearance of an extra layer. Will the actor be spattered with
fake blood, or spilled wine, in Act II? If so, that may affect your choice
of materials. Perhaps most important: Does the director want to use some
element of the costume (color, fit, embellishment) to send a visual
message about the character that a modern audience will interpret in a
certain way, even though it doesn't mesh with what was actually done in
the period? And so on. Any of these conditions may lead to a conscious
choice to depart from what would be historically authentic; it doesn't
mean the work is shoddy or badly researched.

Re-enactors face similar decisions: Does it need to be packable? washable?
comfortable in the non-historic weather conditions in which I'll be
wearing it? Does this cut flatter my figure? work with my physical
disability? Do I want to add a non-historic badge or emblem that's
meaningful in my group? Has my group established rules for color or style
for internal identification purposes? Again: Conscious decisions, for
purposes related to the venue, that may involve departing from the
authentic method.

Two factors that are common to both groups: Time! and Money! It seems
there's never enough of either. The shortcuts you choose, though, will
vary by your priorities, which depend on your purpose.

So: A re-enactor may look at a theatrical costume and say -- "Oh, that
decoration is faked! And there's a zipper in the back!" which might be
unforgivable offenses in a re-enactor venue, but might be completely
unobservable to the stage audience. A theater person might look at a
re-enactor costume and say, "That style doesn't work with that body shape!
And what's all that stuff hanging from the belt!" And -- sorry -- an
academic will look at either and say, "Well, it's OK for fun stuff, like
stage or hobby, but I'd hate to see it in a museum as an example of what
people actually wore."

It's true that for some theatrical costumes, and some re-enactment
costumes, the creator will conform to the authentic method all the way
down the line. Given the constraints of the purposes for which those
clothes will be worn, though, that's going to be pretty rare. A
re-enactment costumer might make a really stellar everything-exact
reproduction for competitions and very occasional special-event wear, but
probably not find it workable for summer outdoor events, or kitchen work,
or other things that are involved in the re-enactment experience. A
theater costumer may once in a blue moon get the chance to work completely
authentically, but from what I know of show schedules, budgets, and
directors' whims, that also is going to be pretty wear.

Again, not a question of good or bad costuming, though I think most of us
have seen both good and bad work in each of these scenarios.

--Robin


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In a message dated 9/10/2004 6:03:36 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
ms154@cornell.edu writes:

> Indeed,  my efforts are not shoddy, temporary, make-do or to be 
> confused with theatrical clothing.
> 

My theatrical clothing is never shoddy. ;-) But I know what you mean. It's 
what I call the "community theatre attitude".

I once had a tech director sigh and tell me "Let's not spend so much  time 
fitting things. It doesn't really have to fit perfectly."
I replied, "Yeah. And let's not light the whole stage, just enough to sorta 
see; and the actors don't have to speak Shakespeare's lines exactly, just as 
long as they say something like it; and the scenery doesn't need to be 
completely painted it could just....."
"Ok! Ok! I get it!" He said walking away.
I followed after telling him, "I hope you're not gonna do the half ass job 
you expect me to do!"
I got the finger.
But he didn't bother me again. 
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Dye remover (not bleach) can get you some interesting effects.  I used 
it on a piece of cotton, er, don't know the technical term, but the 
stores would call it tapestry upholstery fabric.  Fabric was originally 
army green and yellow; the dye remover made it all an antique gold.  I'm 
very pleased with it.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

Register to vote!  Don't let that other guy win!
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I highly recommend _Who Wore What?: Women's Wear 1861-1865_ by Juanita Leisch -- it's slightly outside your period, but I found it amazingly helpful. And a great place to start thinking about all the details involved -- the type of pleating used, the lace at neck and cuffs, and other sort of easy-to-overlook details. 

For both period's I find the "real clothing" pages on the _demode_ website highly useful -- however it seems to be down today. :-( The link I usually use is: http://demode.tweedlebop.com/realvict.html


Other books that cover a much broader swath of Victorian fashion that I've found useful are below:

_American Victorian Costume in Early Photographs_ by Priscilla Harris Dalrymple (photos only, but usefully organized.)

_Victorian Costume for Ladies_ by Linda Setnik (lots of photos)

_Victorian and Edwardian Fashions for Women 1840 to 1919 (A Schiffer Book for Collectors With Value Guide)_ (lots of photos of real dresses. Gotta ignore the make-up and modern stances though. There's not much there for the 1840 period...)

_English Women's Clothing in the Nineteenth-Century _ C. Willet Cunnington (few pictures of actual garments but useful for what colors/trims/fabrics were fashionable for a given year. The hats and hairstyles are a bonus that most books don't cover.)

_Costume in Detail : Women's Dress 1730-1930_ by Nancy Bradford (this is all sketches of exiting garments -- not as nice as photos, but much more affordable, and it has quite a few useful construction notes.)

_Vintage Hats & Bonnets 1770-1970_ Susan Langley (this only has pictures of hats, but I had a lot of trouble getting enough pictures of real hats in my other sources to feel like I had a handle on the styles as they were really worn - as opposed to the fashion plates.)

_Calico Chronicle : Texas Women and Their Fashions 1830-1910_ (this will cover your time period very briefly, with only a few pictures -- but it's a fascinating read, if you're interested in  day-to-day american dress.)

_Fabric of Society : A Century of People and Their Clothes, 1770-1870_ by Jane Tozer (this is out-of-print, it has a lot of nice close-ups of the textiles. It covers a much broader scope then you're probably looking for...) 

_Modes and Manners of the Nineteenth Century_ by Max von Bohen, translated by Oscar Friske (out of print and very expensive, unfortunately -- possibly the best source for prints and fashion-related artwork though.)

I'm very fond of museum catalogues 2 that I know cover your periods are:

_From Queen to Empress : Victorian Dress, 1837-1877 _

_L'album du musée de la mode & du textile_  (it's in French but the pictures are great!)

unfortunately, I'm at work, and my books are at home, so I can't double check any of the other catalogues I have to see if they have useful pictures for your period.
	
	Hope this helps!
		-sunny
 
 

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Mari Stewart wrote:
> And I'll take this moment to add a tiny note about one of my personal  
> 'teeth grinders' -  The use of the word 'garb' in the SCA - Although 
> many will see it as a perfectly fine word - Its meaning, especially in 
> the SCA, is colored to mean something unreal, temporary, or 
> costume-like. 

Gosh, must be a regional difference; I've never seen this implied with 
the word "garb."  It's entirely free of overtones in the places in the 
SCA I've played.

cv
(21 years and counting)
-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

Silmarillion: The Musical  -- The very secret diaries
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What you all do with costumes
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 19:05:35 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I agree with all you say.  I just don't like to see theatrical 
costuming being denigrated just because it is such.  I'm sure you all 
feel that way about your own particular speciality, though.

Sylrog


On Sep 10, 2004, at 5:46 PM, Robin Netherton wrote:

>
> FWIW, there is a significant difference in the nature of much 
> theatrical
> costume and much re-enactment costume, but it doesn't have to do with
> "good" or "bad" quality. (There's good and bad quality in all venues!)
> Theater clothing must answer to a specific set of needs. For instance:
> Does the actor need to manage a costume change in X minutes between
> scenes? If so, you may make the conscious decision to add a hidden 
> zipper
> opening rather than use lacing or pins as a functional element. Will 
> the
> actors be standing under hot lights for two hours? If so, you may 
> choose
> to fake the appearance of an extra layer. Will the actor be spattered 
> with
> fake blood, or spilled wine, in Act II? If so, that may affect your 
> choice
> of materials. Perhaps most important: Does the director want to use 
> some
> element of the costume (color, fit, embellishment) to send a visual
> message about the character that a modern audience will interpret in a
> certain way, even though it doesn't mesh with what was actually done in
> the period? And so on. Any of these conditions may lead to a conscious
> choice to depart from what would be historically authentic; it doesn't
> mean the work is shoddy or badly researched.
>
> Re-enactors face similar decisions: Does it need to be packable? 
> washable?
> comfortable in the non-historic weather conditions in which I'll be
> wearing it? Does this cut flatter my figure? work with my physical
> disability? Do I want to add a non-historic badge or emblem that's
> meaningful in my group? Has my group established rules for color or 
> style
> for internal identification purposes? Again: Conscious decisions, for
> purposes related to the venue, that may involve departing from the
> authentic method.
>
> Two factors that are common to both groups: Time! and Money! It seems
> there's never enough of either. The shortcuts you choose, though, will
> vary by your priorities, which depend on your purpose.
>
> So: A re-enactor may look at a theatrical costume and say -- "Oh, that
> decoration is faked! And there's a zipper in the back!" which might be
> unforgivable offenses in a re-enactor venue, but might be completely
> unobservable to the stage audience. A theater person might look at a
> re-enactor costume and say, "That style doesn't work with that body 
> shape!
> And what's all that stuff hanging from the belt!" And -- sorry -- an
> academic will look at either and say, "Well, it's OK for fun stuff, 
> like
> stage or hobby, but I'd hate to see it in a museum as an example of 
> what
> people actually wore."
>
> It's true that for some theatrical costumes, and some re-enactment
> costumes, the creator will conform to the authentic method all the way
> down the line. Given the constraints of the purposes for which those
> clothes will be worn, though, that's going to be pretty rare. A
> re-enactment costumer might make a really stellar everything-exact
> reproduction for competitions and very occasional special-event wear, 
> but
> probably not find it workable for summer outdoor events, or kitchen 
> work,
> or other things that are involved in the re-enactment experience. A
> theater costumer may once in a blue moon get the chance to work 
> completely
> authentically, but from what I know of show schedules, budgets, and
> directors' whims, that also is going to be pretty wear.
>
> Again, not a question of good or bad costuming, though I think most of 
> us
> have seen both good and bad work in each of these scenarios.
>
> --Robin
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:
FWIW, there is a significant difference in the nature of much theatrical
costume and much re-enactment costume, but it doesn't have to do with
"good" or "bad" quality. (big snip) Any of these conditions may lead to a conscious choice to depart from what would be historically authentic; it doesn't
mean the work is shoddy or badly researched.

Robin's wonderful treatise pretty much made my points for me... we in theater will make many more decisions based on a visual statement first, and period authenticity later.  Both are important, and legitimate forms of expression in this medium, which is more than just about showing people what folks wore in X time period.

So, I'll just chime in to state that I'm still in theatrical costuming, just finished designing Pippin, which one would think is Charlemagne's Europe, but if you saw the show it's a bit more like neon Charlemagne's Europe (fabric choices ala Teddy) on acid... Hey, at least you can't call me boring.  For cool visuals, there is a video (in which you can sort of see the costumes) at www.aclo.com.  I really had a fun time with this one. 

Cheers,

angela

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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 18:55:10 -0700
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From: Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Surviving Faire & re-enactments in Court Costume,
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At 8:53 AM -0600 9/10/04, Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
>One thing I don't understand about the Renn Faire weather issue is 
>why they aren't held in the winer months, especially in states like 
>California where the weather is pleasant year-around.  Or they could 
>be situated indoors like Dickens faires or a combo of 
>indoors-outdoors.  Has anyone ever considered  one of those options?

While you can find pleasant weather year-round in California (at 
least the valley and coastal parts), you can't _guarantee_ pleasant 
weather on a particular set of contiguous weekends during some parts 
of the year.  If you plan your Renn Faire for six consecutive 
weekends any time from approximately May through October, then you 
can have a high level of confidence that all the weekends will be 
fair.  If you plan it for six consecutive weekends any time between 
November to April, you can be almost guaranteed that one or more of 
them will be pouring rain.

Heather
-- 
****
Heather Rose Jones
heather.jones@earthlink.net
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Subject: [h-cost] Surviving the heat (was Re: current and future work?)
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Sylvia Rognstad" <sylvia@ntw.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, September 10, 2004 5:10 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] current and future work?


> Since Renn faires are usually in the heat of the summer, how does one
> stand to spend much time walking around in court (thanks for the proper
> term) dress?

My personal solution is to move to Italy (or more specifically early 16th
century Venetian) for the summer. But I'm in the SCA you can wear anything
between 600 & 1600 from anywhere in (or in contact with) Western Europe. My
next set of court garb will be designed for summer though (as I'm thinking
of entering it into a 12th night comp, which is the middle of Summer here)
and it will be Tudor (based on this portrait
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth5.jpg). I'll be cheating on the
number of layers (no kirtle, no petticoat under the farthingale) and using
natural fibres where possible (The brocade I'm using is a synthetic blend
because it was cheap and the comp theme is an outfit under $50 but it will
be lined with cotton) if it gets really hot I can remove my under sleeves so
my Chemise sleeves are showing as I've got documentation for that look. Bare
legs under your farthingale are useful for keeping cool and a bare
décolletage is another area that lets your body release heat (just remember
to put on lots of sunscreen). Other people find that covering everything in
one or two light layers works best (working on the middle eastern principle
of covering up) but it depends on whether you've got dry heat or humid heat
in your area, in humid conditions clothing will stick to you, in a dry heat
the shade provided by your clothing can help a lot especially if you can get
a breeze. Fans are very useful accessories for Summer, drinking lots of
water, hats and sunscreen as sunburn makes you feel hotter than you really
are. Unfortunately sunhats were not fashionable Elizabethan wear but
personally I'd compromise on that rather than getting burnt or sunstroke.
Pinning your hair up off your neck, if it's a one day event washing your
hair in the morning at home and then pinning it up, the bun itself will take
a long time to dry (as the air can't get to it) and the area underneath the
bun will actually be cooler than the rest of your head. If you think it has
dried out you can either wet the ponytail part again and pin it back up or
just untwist it and twist it again in the opposite direction so the bit that
was in the middle of the twist is now on the outside (i.e. against your
head).
Elizabeth
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
Elizabeth Beaumont              Elizabeth Walpole
             in                      OR                 in
Politarchopolis, Lochac        Canberra, Australia
             ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au.

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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 21:55:28 -0500
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Surviving Faire & re-enactments in Court Costume,
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Last year (03) at Bristol we had significant rain on each of 9 contiguous
weekends in July and August, one day at least and often both days. That's
a run like I have never seen in all my years (27) of historic
re-enactment. Of course I'd never seen a run of heat like the summer of
'95 until it happened either. ;-) 

I can understand that some of these stories make wearing Elizabethans at
a RenFaire sound like torture.....and under certain circumstances they
can be, but like your father or grandfather telling you about walking to
school 10 miles in blinding snowstorms, uphill both ways, we tend to
dwell on the most 'challenging' aspects and neglect to expound upon the
nicer bits. The sweat and tears are worth it when you get the admiration
of your peers and the audience, and you can walk thru your own personal
make-believe world knowing that you are dressed in the most perfect gown
you can make. 


Karen



On Fri, 10 Sep 2004 18:55:10 -0700 Heather Rose Jones 
> While you can find pleasant weather year-round in California (at 
> least the valley and coastal parts), you can't _guarantee_ pleasant 
> weather on a particular set of contiguous weekends during some parts 
> of the year.  If you plan your Renn Faire for six consecutive 
> weekends any time from approximately May through October, then you 
> can have a high level of confidence that all the weekends will be 
> fair.  If you plan it for six consecutive weekends any time between 
> November to April, you can be almost guaranteed that one or more of 
> them will be pouring rain.
> 
> Heather
> -- 
> ****
> Heather Rose Jones
> heather.jones@earthlink.net
> ****
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What you all do with costumes
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 23:34:48 -0400
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On Friday 10 September 2004 3:42 pm, Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
[snip]

>I guess I'm both curious about the composition of
> this group as well as wondering what other possibilities for
> money-making with costumes there are.  If not involved in the SCA or
> with Renn Faires, what do you do?  Are you in reenactment groups or
> role-playing groups?  Are you into museum work or clothing restoration
> and preservation?  Are you, like me, in theatre?  I'm really very
> curious.  When I first got started in theatre decades ago, that was
> about the only venue available for costumers.  Now the costuming world
> has expanded so much.

Oh, God.  I doubt I'll ever have the time to spare to become good enough to 
sell my sewing!  I make costumes for myself and my husband for live action 
role playing games, and I wear them at science fiction conventions (where you 
can wear almost anything so long as it doesn't annoy the hotel enough to 
cause them to throw you out).  

I would love to do reenactment but have yet to find the time to put in the 
kind of work and study to achieve what I would consider a suitable level of 
authenticity.

In short, I make costumes in order to learn more about historic costume, and I 
study historic costumes to learn about interesting clothing to make and 
eventually wear.  For me, it's a hobby, and pure fun.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Barbie pink linen
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on 9/10/04 7:05 PM, h-costume-request@indra.com at
h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:

> Remember the Barbie Pink linen quite a few of us picked up at JoAnne's a
> couple of years ago? I know Robin was using her for her demo fittings - at
> least, she was when she did one after her Boston lecture.  There was quite a
> discussion of How To Remove the Hot Pink Color.
> 
> What WAS the consensus on how to change that color?   I found I still have
> some. Rowena 

Make something for a little girl. That's what I did with mine, and it is
still as pink as ever. To her delight, of course.

Gail Finke

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: the word garb
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on 9/10/04 10:16 PM, h-costume-request@indra.com at
h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:

>> And I'll take this moment to add a tiny note about one of my personal
>> 'teeth grinders' -  The use of the word 'garb' in the SCA - Although
>> many will see it as a perfectly fine word - Its meaning, especially in
>> the SCA, is colored to mean something unreal, temporary, or
>> costume-like.  I prefer to use the word clothing for the pieces I
>> make.  Indeed,  my efforts are not shoddy, temporary, make-do or to be
>> confused with theatrical clothing.
>> 

In my area of the SCA, "garb" doesn't imply anything temporary, although it
may mean "costumey" (depending on the skill of the maker). The way it was
explained to me many years ago is that it was a word chosen in place of the
word "costume," because people wanted a word that meant real clothes but
that implied "non-modern." I think that has remained true in general,
although I have seen many people with gorgeous medieval clothes refer to
them as costumes, and people with the most costume stuff swear that they
don't think of it as a costume, but as their real clothes. Oh well. But I
suppose the implications of the word vary over time, and across continents!

Gail Finke

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> > Remember the Barbie Pink linen quite a few of us picked up at JoAnne's a
> > couple of years ago? I know Robin was using her for her demo fittings -
at
> > least, she was when she did one after her Boston lecture.  There was
quite a
> > discussion of How To Remove the Hot Pink Color.
> >
> > What WAS the consensus on how to change that color?   I found I still
have
> > some. Rowena

I had something similar I got at Fabricville up here in Montreal. I've
overdyed successfully with red (it gave a nice cherry red), and when I
swooshed some of it in black it came out a wonderful purple colour.
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Subject: [h-cost] Antique Textile Fair
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in Manchester (U.K.) next March

More details here:-

http://www.textilesociety.org.uk/pages/fair.htm
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Subject: Garb, costume et al was Re: [h-cost] What you all do with costumes
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> > And I'll take this moment to add a tiny note about one of my personal
> > 'teeth grinders' -  The use of the word 'garb' in the SCA - Although
> > many will see it as a perfectly fine word - Its meaning, especially in
> > the SCA, is colored to mean something unreal, temporary, or
> > costume-like.  I prefer to use the word clothing for the pieces I
> > make.  Indeed,  my efforts are not shoddy, temporary, make-do or to be
> > confused with theatrical clothing.

I suppose that's one interpretation.. but everywhere I've seen it used
simply means "the clothes I wear while at an SCA event."

What the workmanship level is of the person using the word is irrelevant.

I happily use the word costume (lit. clothing for a specific place and time)
and garb to describe the pieces I make and wear while not doing usual
everyday activities.

I really hate the snobbery in the costuming world for various words.

They are nouns and verbs (for the making of the items.) It's the adjectives
and adverbs that give them meaning.  Calling something costume like gives no
real indication of the quality. It's just saying the item belongs somewhere
not in the everyday world. Using the word "cheap" or "shoddy" does idicat
your appreciation of the quality. As does "well researched" or "well
constructed."

Let's remember our grammar folks;)

*Scampers of before anyone pokes holes in how she structured her
sentances....*

Yes I am aware that "costume like" does desrcibe something as having the
qualities of a costume.. but that's like saying an apple is apple-like. I
want to now if it's a granny smith, or a fuji, or braeburn, and if it's
ripe, juicy, sweet or too sour.

michaela
http://costumes.glittersweet.com


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 03:41:39 2004
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?julian=20wilson?= <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
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Dear All,
If I might add our Companie's thinking to this thread? 
When we began to appear at Gorey Castle as a newly-re-constituted Group last year, the local Museum Service managers were rather tending to "discount" us as a bunch of enthusiastic amateurs  who liked dressing-up in colourful clothes. Rightly or wrongly, we took this as a form of "academic snobbery"; and since then we seem to have gained their academic respect for the proven research which precedes every new bit of kit we produce. 
At the time of that rather "shaky" new beginning, - to try and make a semantic distinction for our 'mundane' listeners, between "theatre" and "pantomime" costumes  - and the replica clothes our Companie's knowledgable Mistress Of The Robes was passing as "fit for our re-enactment wear",  - our "core-group" all agreed to refer to our medieval clothing as "garb" - nice short word, not in common 'mundane' use.
We are given a wide choice of "garb & equipment fashions" by the recorded fact that the Anglo-Norman Isles tended to follow the fashions of the Burgundian, and Breton Courts, - the Islands' closest Trading Neighbours.
Anyway, that's why our Companie uses "garb" as a collective noun for our replica late-medieval clothing. Obviously, other readers on this List will have other reasons for the descriptive noun they prefer to use.
Julian,
in "olde" Jersey.
michaela <thebruce@ihug.co.nz> wrote:
> > And I'll take this moment to add a tiny note about one of my personal
> > 'teeth grinders' - The use of the word 'garb' in the SCA - Although
> > many will see it as a perfectly fine word - Its meaning, especially in
> > the SCA, is colored to mean something unreal, temporary, or
> > costume-like. I prefer to use the word clothing for the pieces I
> > make. Indeed, my efforts are not shoddy, temporary, make-do or to be
> > confused with theatrical clothing.

I suppose that's one interpretation.. but everywhere I've seen it used
simply means "the clothes I wear while at an SCA event."

What the workmanship level is of the person using the word is irrelevant.

I happily use the word costume (lit. clothing for a specific place and time)
and garb to describe the pieces I make and wear while not doing usual
everyday activities.

I really hate the snobbery in the costuming world for various words.

They are nouns and verbs (for the making of the items.) It's the adjectives
and adverbs that give them meaning. Calling something costume like gives no
real indication of the quality. It's just saying the item belongs somewhere
not in the everyday world. Using the word "cheap" or "shoddy" does idicat
your appreciation of the quality. As does "well researched" or "well
constructed."

Let's remember our grammar folks;)

*Scampers of before anyone pokes holes in how she structured her
sentances....*

Yes I am aware that "costume like" does desrcibe something as having the
qualities of a costume.. but that's like saying an apple is apple-like. I
want to now if it's a granny smith, or a fuji, or braeburn, and if it's
ripe, juicy, sweet or too sour.

michaela
http://costumes.glittersweet.com


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Hi,
I studyed on a design school in 4 years. This was back in 1976-1980. I
specialised in costume.
Then i waited to get some orders, but even though our school had made a
folder with the students works, nobody called or wrote to me.
Then i tryed some theaters, but it seemed impossible, they all wanted
seamstresses.
Then i almost gave up and began my earning in many different jobs.
It wasnt until 1995 or something like that, that i started again. Knowing
some hairdressers who made shows with historical hairstyles. I didnt earn a
penny of it, but i made costumes for them. Then i got a computer and acces
to the net and i got a homepage. I started to put up pictures of my costumes
and when i joined this group and a group called sewinghistoric, i suddently
had people to look at my work. And a little by little i got orders from
reenactors.
So far i  have made costumes for people in Swizzerland, England, Germany,
Norway, America and Sweden. But still it is nothing i earn much with, i have
a full time job to take care of besides my costuming. It is however lovely,
i like it very much and i can choose wich things i like to do and wich i
dont.
But it is also because i make embroidery on my costumes and therefore it
takes a lot of time to have them finished.


Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE:  Court Garb in hot weather[ bit long]
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-----Original Message-----

Ok, I have used Scotchgard in a spray, but a UV protectant? What is that
called, and where do you find it?

Kimiko

~~~
The sprays I have found are at Jo Ann's next to or near the Scotch guard. I
use it on things that I know will be in the sun a lot.
Something I learned with tents(modern), UV spray extends the life of the
color of your outdoor fabric and if you need to seal the tent with scotch
guard spray on the inside because the scotch guard will assist the sun in
breakdown the fibers of the fabric if you spray it on the outside.

De

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Garb, costume et al 
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At 08:40 AM 9/11/2004 +0100, you wrote:
>Julian,
>in "olde" Jersey.


Hi Julian,

I am a Californian who hasn't traveled much, and while I know "New" Jersey 
is the ... well, newer American state back east near "New" York, where 
exactly is "old" Jersey?

 >the proven research which precedes every new bit of kit we produce.

And I kinda like your term of "kit" that you gave in describing "garb". It 
also isn't a term I am familiar with. Now that I understand your use of 
garb, what is your use of "kit"?

Thanks,

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Owner ~ DreamTime Studios
http://www.dreamtime-studios.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

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This is so true! Several months ago I bought some blue and natural herringbone linen. It turned out
to be a much darker blue than I wanted, so I decided to try Rit dye remover on it. I left it in the
washer all afternoon, then all evening, with very little appreciable difference in color. I think I
even added a cup or so of bleach because I was frustrated. Eventually, I went to bed and left it
there. Next morning- yowza! Yes, the dark blue was all gone. What was revealed was STRIPES! Very
subtle irregular fine stripes in medium blue, gray, rust, and green! It also got baby soft.  So,
sometimes your results can be wildly different from what you think you're gonna get. 

Pax,
::Linda::

-----Original Message-----
On Behalf Of Cynthia Virtue
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linen/ Dye removal

Dye remover (not bleach) can get you some interesting effects.  I used 
it on a piece of cotton, er, don't know the technical term, but the 
stores would call it tapestry upholstery fabric.  Fabric was originally 
army green and yellow; the dye remover made it all an antique gold.  I'm 
very pleased with it.




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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Mari Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What you all do with costumes
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Hi Syrlog...  didn't mean to offend.  I did relook at my phrashing and 
indeed you can parse the phrase as belittling theatrical costuming.

         But my thought was more like
         " my efforts are not (shoddy, temporary, make-do) or (to be 
confused with theatrical clothing)"
to my mind theatrical clothing is an extension of the atmosphere that the 
designers and director wishes to create,  a form of mask per se...  to be 
taken off once the performance is over -  I don't think of my clothing that 
way.
That was my meaning.

Bridgette / Mari

>>And I'll take this moment to add a tiny note about one of my personal
>>'teeth grinders' -  The use of the word 'garb' in the SCA - Although many 
>>will see it as a perfectly fine word - Its meaning, especially in the 
>>SCA, is colored to mean something unreal, temporary, or costume-like.  I 
>>prefer to use the word clothing for the pieces I make.  Indeed,  my 
>>efforts are not shoddy, temporary, make-do or to be confused with 
>>theatrical clothing.
>>
>And I guess I would have to take exception to your statement calling 
>theatrical costuming shoddy, temporary or make-do.   Maybe you're thinking 
>of Halloween type costumes or some theatrical costumes that are really low 
>quality, but the costumes I've made for high end theatres and universities 
>are anything but.  They are neither shoddy nor temporary, but are very 
>well constructed and made to last a long time.  We use high quality 
>fabrics and trims and they are very well researched in terms of history 
>when that is required.
>
>Sylrog

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> This is so true! Several months ago I bought some blue and natural 
> herringbone linen. It turned out
> to be a much darker blue than I wanted, so I decided to try Rit dye 
> remover on it. I left it in the
> washer all afternoon, then all evening, with very little appreciable 
> difference in color. I think I
> even added a cup or so of bleach because I was frustrated. Eventually, I 
> went to bed and left it
> there. Next morning- yowza! Yes, the dark blue was all gone. What was 
> revealed was STRIPES! Very
> subtle irregular fine stripes in medium blue, gray, rust, and green! It 
> also got baby soft.  So,
> sometimes your results can be wildly different from what you think you're 
> gonna get.

I was amazed at what they had to put into the mix when I went to get some 
paint matched.  To get an off green color, they used about 5 different 
things, including some red.  It gave me a better idea about what might have 
happened to some fabric colors I have had to change!  Rowena 


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Angela...  just peeked at the site...  love the concept!  And now I've got 
the damn score going through my head  ; >
Bridgette

>So, I'll just chime in to state that I'm still in theatrical costuming, 
>just finished designing Pippin, which one would think is Charlemagne's 
>Europe, but if you saw the show it's a bit more like neon Charlemagne's 
>Europe (fabric choices ala Teddy) on acid... Hey, at least you can't call 
>me boring.  For cool visuals, there is a video (in which you can sort of 
>see the costumes) at www.aclo.com.  I really had a fun time with this one.
>
>Cheers,
>
>angela

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] What you all do with costumes - Pippin
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> So, I'll just chime in to state that I'm still in theatrical costuming, 
> just finished designing Pippin, which one would think is Charlemagne's 
> Europe, but if you saw the show it's a bit more like neon Charlemagne's 
> Europe (fabric choices ala Teddy) on acid... Hey, at least you can't call 
> me boring.  For cool visuals, there is a video (in which you can sort of 
> see the costumes) at www.aclo.com.  I really had a fun time with this one.

I was disappointed to find out it was in California - on the opposite coast! 
It sounds like it would have been fun to see.  Rowena 


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: the word "kit"
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on 9/11/04 7:20 AM, h-costume-request@indra.com at
h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:

> And I kinda like your term of "kit" that you gave in describing "garb". It
> also isn't a term I am familiar with. Now that I understand your use of
> garb, what is your use of "kit"?

I'm going to make a stab at it and see if I'm right! As I understand it, the
word "kit" is used by many reenactment groups to mean all the "stuff" that
appertains to their costume and/or the role they play. So it would mean
their belts, knives, shoes, spoons, hatpins, etc. Not just the garments. I
don't know if it also includes furniture and camp things. In the US we
generally use the word "kit" to mean gathered parts you assemble into
something else, such as a model airplane kit, but this is more in line with
the (here) old soldier's "kit bag" use, ie "Pack up your troubles in your
old kit bag and smile, smile, smile!"

Gail Finke

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Chassidim
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While I'm pretending to be a dictionary, I will answer the question about
the word "Chassidic," which I didn't see answered.

Chassidim are a sect of ultra-orthodox Jews. They have some unique beliefs
which I am not going to go into, suffice to say that they are quite unusual.
Anyway, the costume part is that they have many rules about what they can
and can't wear.

Chassidim live in many places, but there is a big group (or groups?) in New
York City. The men wear black clothes, and unusual hats, and have long locks
of hair over their temples. You will often see people dressed as Chassidic
men in crowd scenes of movies set in New York. Chassidic women have to cover
their hair at all times, and wear long sleeved garments. I think they may
have to wear skirts as well, and they are supposed to cover their legs.
Bizarrely, this is often done by wearing stockings and wigs, so they don't
look that much different from other women -- losing the whole point of the
thing.

Chaim Potok wrote a couple of novels about Hassidic Jews (another way to
spell it). "The Chosen" is the most famous one, and it is frequently read in
schools, so if you're interested you should be able to find it in your
library. I would recommend skipping chapter one, if I remember correctly. It
gets very interesting starting in chapter two.

Gail Finke

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: the word garb
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"And I'll take this moment to add a tiny note about one of my personal 'teeth 
grinders' -  The use of the word 'garb' in the SCA - Although many will see 
it as a perfectly fine word - Its meaning, especially in the SCA, is colored to 
mean something unreal, temporary, or costume-like."

I was *very* surprised by this statement.  I grew up in the SCA (parents 
active participants) and have participated all over the country, and I've never 
run into "garb" having a connotation of costume-like.  To the contrary, it's 
always the word that's used to denote period clothing, as opposed to mundane 
clothing.

Further, the etymology of the word is, in fact, pretty period.  It's taken 
from Middle French, "garbe," which meant a graceful outline.  There is 
documentation from as far back as 1622 for it having the meaning of "fashion of dress" 
as in clerical garb, court garb, servant's garb.


"Education is a progressive discovery of our own ignorance." -Will Durant
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In a message dated 9/11/04 5:39:36 AM Central Daylight Time, 
kimiko@kimiko1.com writes:
I am a Californian who hasn't traveled much, and while I know "New" Jersey 
is the ... well, newer American state back east near "New" York, where 
exactly is "old" Jersey?
Jersey is one of the Channel Islands, located at the very edge of the English 
Channel and actually closer to France than the UK.  


"Education is a progressive discovery of our own ignorance." -Will Durant
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Garb, costume et al
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On Sat, 11 Sep 2004 03:05:49 -0700 Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
writes:
> Hi Julian,
> 
> I am a Californian who hasn't traveled much, and while I know "New" 
> Jersey  is the ... well, newer American state back east near "New"
York, 
> where exactly is "old" Jersey?

I'm not Julian, but as it's the weekend and I'm not sure if he'll be on
soon, I'll chime in with some information. 'Olde Jersey' is one of at
least two islands in the English Channel (also known as the Channel
Islands) which have at various times been controlled by England and
France (and I think occupied by Germany during WWII, but I might be
mistaken about that). The other Island which springs to mind is
Guernsey.....and yes, dairying has been a major occupation
there.......... I just checked my English maps and I was right in the two
that I've already named, but there are three more smaller islands- Herm,
Sark, and Alderney. Lily Langtry is probably the most famous person to
come out of the Channel Islands, her nickname of 'Jersey Lily' comes from
the island where she grew up.



Karen
 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Barbie pink linen
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Overdying with orange will tone it down.
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Gail & Scott Finke<mailto:gailscott@eos.net> 
  To: h-costume@indra.com<mailto:h-costume@indra.com> 
  Sent: Friday, September 10, 2004 11:26 PM
  Subject: [h-cost] Re: Barbie pink linen


  on 9/10/04 7:05 PM, h-costume-request@indra.com<mailto:h-costume-request@indra.com> at
  h-costume-request@indra.com<mailto:h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:

  > Remember the Barbie Pink linen quite a few of us picked up at JoAnne's a
  > couple of years ago? I know Robin was using her for her demo fittings - at
  > least, she was when she did one after her Boston lecture.  There was quite a
  > discussion of How To Remove the Hot Pink Color.
  > 
  > What WAS the consensus on how to change that color?   I found I still have
  > some. Rowena 

  Make something for a little girl. That's what I did with mine, and it is
  still as pink as ever. To her delight, of course.

  Gail Finke

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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What you all do with costumes
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 07:56:35 -0600
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No offense taken.  I was just trying to counteract a tendency I 
sometimes see from the costuming world, and as I said, I'm sure it 
happens in other areas as well.

On Sep 11, 2004, at 6:43 AM, Mari Stewart wrote:

>
> Hi Syrlog...  didn't mean to offend.  I did relook at my phrashing and 
> indeed you can parse the phrase as belittling theatrical costuming.
>
>         But my thought was more like
>         " my efforts are not (shoddy, temporary, make-do) or (to be 
> confused with theatrical clothing)"
> to my mind theatrical clothing is an extension of the atmosphere that 
> the designers and director wishes to create,  a form of mask per se... 
>  to be taken off once the performance is over -  I don't think of my 
> clothing that way.
> That was my meaning.
>
> Bridgette / Mari
>
>>> And I'll take this moment to add a tiny note about one of my personal
>>> 'teeth grinders' -  The use of the word 'garb' in the SCA - Although 
>>> many will see it as a perfectly fine word - Its meaning, especially 
>>> in the SCA, is colored to mean something unreal, temporary, or 
>>> costume-like.  I prefer to use the word clothing for the pieces I 
>>> make.  Indeed,  my efforts are not shoddy, temporary, make-do or to 
>>> be confused with theatrical clothing.
>>>
>> And I guess I would have to take exception to your statement calling 
>> theatrical costuming shoddy, temporary or make-do.   Maybe you're 
>> thinking of Halloween type costumes or some theatrical costumes that 
>> are really low quality, but the costumes I've made for high end 
>> theatres and universities are anything but.  They are neither shoddy 
>> nor temporary, but are very well constructed and made to last a long 
>> time.  We use high quality fabrics and trims and they are very well 
>> researched in terms of history when that is required.
>>
>> Sylrog
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: the word garb
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This turn of the conversation puts me in the mind of a suitable word choice
to denote clothing of Native Americans.  My brother in law (New England/
Canadian Tribes) insisted I should use the term"regalia" in reference to any
clothing which I was calling 'costume'. "Regalia" to me was ceremonially
connected in any other costume sense. Since the clothing I was providing for
theatrical use was 'ersatz', I objected to using his term. But he always
corrected me. I even took to using "garb" to make the difference between his
authentic clothing (antique and new) and what I was providing for other
venues, and he still insisted on "regalia".

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gail & Scott Finke" <gailscott@eos.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, September 10, 2004 11:32 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: the word garb


> on 9/10/04 10:16 PM, h-costume-request@indra.com at
> h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>
> >> And I'll take this moment to add a tiny note about one of my personal
> >> 'teeth grinders' -  The use of the word 'garb' in the SCA - Although
> >> many will see it as a perfectly fine word - Its meaning, especially in
> >> the SCA, is colored to mean something unreal, temporary, or
> >> costume-like.  I prefer to use the word clothing for the pieces I
> >> make.  Indeed,  my efforts are not shoddy, temporary, make-do or to be
> >> confused with theatrical clothing.
> >>
>
> In my area of the SCA, "garb" doesn't imply anything temporary, although
it
> may mean "costumey" (depending on the skill of the maker). The way it was
> explained to me many years ago is that it was a word chosen in place of
the
> word "costume," because people wanted a word that meant real clothes but
> that implied "non-modern." I think that has remained true in general,
> although I have seen many people with gorgeous medieval clothes refer to
> them as costumes, and people with the most costume stuff swear that they
> don't think of it as a costume, but as their real clothes. Oh well. But I
> suppose the implications of the word vary over time, and across
continents!
>
> Gail Finke
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] what you all do with costumes
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For those of you who, like Bjarne, make costume for people from afar, 
is it ever a problem with them not fitting?  I never trust people to 
take their own measurements.  I would hate to make something like 
Bjarne does, putting in all that time and effort, send it off and then 
have it returned because it didnt fit and it wasn't my fault.  How do 
you handle measurements and fittings?

Sylrog

On Sep 11, 2004, at 1:56 AM, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Hi,
> I studyed on a design school in 4 years. This was back in 1976-1980. I
> specialised in costume.
> Then i waited to get some orders, but even though our school had made a
> folder with the students works, nobody called or wrote to me.
> Then i tryed some theaters, but it seemed impossible, they all wanted
> seamstresses.
> Then i almost gave up and began my earning in many different jobs.
> It wasnt until 1995 or something like that, that i started again. 
> Knowing
> some hairdressers who made shows with historical hairstyles. I didnt 
> earn a
> penny of it, but i made costumes for them. Then i got a computer and 
> acces
> to the net and i got a homepage. I started to put up pictures of my 
> costumes
> and when i joined this group and a group called sewinghistoric, i 
> suddently
> had people to look at my work. And a little by little i got orders from
> reenactors.
> So far i  have made costumes for people in Swizzerland, England, 
> Germany,
> Norway, America and Sweden. But still it is nothing i earn much with, 
> i have
> a full time job to take care of besides my costuming. It is however 
> lovely,
> i like it very much and i can choose wich things i like to do and wich 
> i
> dont.
> But it is also because i make embroidery on my costumes and therefore 
> it
> takes a lot of time to have them finished.
>
>
> Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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>

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Hi,

I use the meassure chart from Jean Hunniset's book. It has a drawing showing
where you make your meassures.
I send this to my overseas costumers. Then i make a mock up of the corset
and sends this corset over to try on the client.
I have ben very lucky the times i made it like this, because only few things
had to be changed.
And i have never had a costumer who disliked the result.
Then i also have to ad that 18th century dresses are very easy to fit. The
stays only needs 4 meassures and it will fit.
Maybe because i use very tight lacing :-)

Bjarne, who now has to pleat even more silk organza for the neckline of the
courtdress.....................sigh.................


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sylvia Rognstad" <sylvia@ntw.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2004 4:39 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] what you all do with costumes


> For those of you who, like Bjarne, make costume for people from afar,
> is it ever a problem with them not fitting?  I never trust people to
> take their own measurements.  I would hate to make something like
> Bjarne does, putting in all that time and effort, send it off and then
> have it returned because it didnt fit and it wasn't my fault.  How do
> you handle measurements and fittings?
>
> Sylrog


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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?julian=20wilson?= <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Garb, costume et al 
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Dear Kimiko,
I began using the "olde" Jersey sign-off when too many SCAdians on the Lists to which I subscribe wrongly assumed I lived in "New Jersey". I am sure that you realise that many places in the modern Eastern USA were named by their original settlers after places in Western Europe , - "New Amsterdam" which became "New York", (New) Orleans,  Portsmouth, Plymouth, (New) Hampshire, Boston, - the list is very long.
 
What is now the State of "New Jersey" originally comprised part of the lands in the "new world" Royally granted to Sir George De Carteret, whose family had at that time held Offices under the Crown at the English Court, - and in the Anglo Norman isle of Jersey,  [15 miles off the Normandy coast in the Gulf  of Mont St. Michel],  for 400 years and more - since the time of The Conquest in 1066AD. 
 
The De Carteret Family of Jersey [where they held the Fief of St Ouen as Chefs-Tenant to our Duke, The King, ] originated in Normandy, with their principal Honour [estates] around the ancient seaport town of Carteret on the Cherbourg peninsula [this was their largest estate]  -  held by Knight Service originally from their Liege Lord Duke William [The Bastard* of Normandy.  Note* - not a derogatory term at that time when it simpoly denoted birth of an acknowledged son to an official Mistress rather than to a lawful Wife]. 
Duke William The Bastard [descended from the Viking Leader Rollo of the 10th century] - was a Ruling Prince in his own Right, who became King William the First of England following his defeat of the Saxon Army of King Harold at the Battle of Santlache - which the English name Hastings, - in 1066 AD,  - and Siegneur Guillaume de Carteret commanded a Wing [or Battel] of Duke William's invading army.
 
During the Tudor Period, the De Carterets of Jersey became prominent at the English Court - and invested liegemen and money in expeditions to discover the "new world"; - and these eventually led to Royal Land Grants in what became the State of New Jersey. That is the connection.
 
"Kit" - an English military and naval word for personal equipment of any kind not including personal weapons. I am not sure when it first appeared in the English military and naval lexicon, but I believe that was probably around the time of the Boer War in S. Africa, 1899-1902    Certainly by the time of the Great War 1914-1918 - English soldiers and sailors carried their persoanl equipment in large,  tubular, stout, canavs bags officially named "kitbags"   There is a famous marching song of that time [still being sung during WW2] titled "Pack-Up Your Troubles" of which the first line runs - "Pack up your troubles in your old kitbag, and smile, smile, smile...."     US soldiers have or had  "footlockers" for the same purpose, so I am told.
OK, I'm beginning to lecture, so I'll stop here.
But you did ask.
Julian,
in "olde" Jersey.

Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com> wrote:
At 08:40 AM 9/11/2004 +0100, you wrote:
>Julian,
>in "olde" Jersey.


Hi Julian,

I am a Californian who hasn't traveled much, and while I know "New" Jersey 
is the ... well, newer American state back east near "New" York, where 
exactly is "old" Jersey?

>the proven research which precedes every new bit of kit we produce.

And I kinda like your term of "kit" that you gave in describing "garb". It 
also isn't a term I am familiar with. Now that I understand your use of 
garb, what is your use of "kit"?

Thanks,

Kimiko
		
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seamstrix@juno.com wrote:

I'm not Julian, but as it's the weekend and I'm not sure if he'll be on soon, I'll chime in with some information. 'Olde Jersey' is one of atleast two islands in the English Channel (also known as the Channel Islands) which have at various times been controlled by England andFrance (and I think occupied by Germany during WWII, but I might be mistaken about that). The other Island which springs to mind is Guernsey.....and yes, dairying has been a major occupationthere.......... I just checked my English maps and I was right in the two that I've already named, but there are three more smaller islands- Herm, Sark, and Alderney. Lily Langtry is probably the most famous person to
come out of the Channel Islands, her nickname of 'Jersey Lily' comes from the island where she grew up.

 

OK, after a glorious day re-enacting XVth Cent. Jersey living history at the great Castle of Gorey [Mont Orgeuil - generally held to be the best preserved, non-residential, medieval  castle in Britain - the finest setting any re-enactment Group could wish for - eat your hearts out!] - Julian is back on line for a while.

Occupied by the Nazis during WW2? - Yes, you are correct - and there are still thousands of older Jerseymen and women [my wife is one of them] who have still not forgotten what it is like to be betrayed by your own Government and abandoned to try and stay alive under a Fascist Dictatorship for 5 years. My wife - even after all these years - still gets the "cold shivers" [that goose-pimple-causing "someone is walking over my grave" feeling] whenever she hears German Military brass band music. (For my part, Air Raid Sirens do the same thing!) ] Over 2000 Jersey folk were deported to Nazi Concentration Camps, initially to Biberach- and many of them died in those camps - some in the ovens at Aushwitz, Buchenwald, Dachau, and Mauthausen. Guernsey suffered in the same way - but I have forgotten the numbers of deportees. 

Alderney was completely evacuated, and became the site of the only Nazi concentration-camp erected on British soil; - and because the SS and Todt organization staff "sanitised" the site before May 9th, 1945 - to this day no one is sure how many slave labourers died there. Alderney was turned into the hub of the KanalinselnFestung [Fortress Channel Islands], and was the location for the famous "Mirus Batterie" - which mounted 4x305mm ex-Russian Navy Rifles [seriously large naval guns]

You missed the final inhabited Channel Island - that of Jethou, [probably because it's so small on the maps] leased from the Crown Estates by the seriously-wealthy and secretive  Barclay brothers.

OK. Lets get back to medieval history, shall we?

The medieval Anglo-Norman Isles were a rich trading centre astride the coastal navigation routes between England and the South. A large pilgrim trade flowed in both directions, plus the big trade in other commodities. Only medieval London saw a greater foreign trade inwards and outwards. Jersey merchants of the medieval period are known to have traded up into the Baltic States, with the Hanseatic League, and into Russia as far as Kiev The Golden. While to the South, Jersey Merchants are known to have traded and voyaged as far as Damascus, Jerusalem, and fabled Byzantium. This diversity of medieval cultures passing through our Islands gives our re-enactment group a very wide choice of characters, fashions, etc.

Julian, 

in "olde" Jersey

Julian,

in "olde" Jersey.

 


 


		
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> If not involved in the SCA or
> with Renn Faires, what do you do?  Are you in reenactment groups or
> role-playing groups?  Are you into museum work or clothing restoration
> and preservation?  Are you, like me, in theatre?  >
> Sylrog
> 
In a sense I started life as a costumer--at least, back in those
keep-the-kids-quiet-at-midday-in-summer days (for fear of polio, and does
that date me?), I spent a great deal of time designing and sewing outfits
for my dolls. Moved on to sewing for myself, both with and without patterns,
prior to 7th-grade sewing class (where the teacher and I had some
disagreements!). In college I started sewing (and knitting, actually) for
other people, sometimes just for the cost of the fabric (or yarn) and
sometimes for an extra fee, depending on whether I was interested in making
the garment or not. In grad school I decided to give up short skirts, so
when I wanted to dress more fancy than jeans I made the long skirts, long
dresses, and capes I took to wearing (had to make 'em--NOT in fashion
then!). Continued this during my first 15 years of teaching, since I
discovered that I was most comfortable in front of an "audience" in long
skirts. My working life has become more hectic and more complicated and my
salary has dropped, so now I just go around most of the time in jeans.

But in 1994 I undertook to direct Midsummer Night's Dream at a community
theater and have since then done a lot of period or quasi-period costuming,
since that's the only way I can mount my annual period production on the
miniscule budgets I have in community theater. I do not do this for pay--and
that's a shame, since I could REALLY use the money. But I can't afford the
tuition or the time to go back to school to get myself credentialed (and
properly trained) to enter professional costuming.

Outside of theater I have costumed an early-music performing group (for pay)
and have made a few bridal and prom gowns, some for paying friends and some
for non-paying family. I THINK I'll be making another bridal gown this
winter (for pay), although I'm seriously considering suggesting that the
bride visit Bjarne's website and explore getting a really distinctive gown
done by a real artist!

Subscribing to this list has made me wish fervently that I could undertake
some efforts at authentic recreations, but I really don't have the time, and
I really don't have anyone who needs such garb (as Robin so clearly and
effectively explained in a posting yesterday, stage costuming has other and
sometimes conflicting priorities). I am an experienced and pretty competent
knitter, crocheter, tatter, maker of bobbin lace, embroiderer, and
hand-sewing able seamer, but these skills are for now too time-consuming to
pursue. (So many things we learn to do go by the wayside--not only
coloring-inside-the-lines, but also French, Latin, the violin, the French
horn, ensemble singing, and use of the slide-rule, for me--what a pity!
Didn't ordinary LIVING use to have more time around it?) So anyway, I sew
vicariously by looking at the beautiful creations the serious working
members of this list share with us.

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
amateur costumer and scholar gypsy

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 14:55:48 2004
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 14:55:47 -0400
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Garb, costume et al 
From: ruthanne baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Dear Julian,
Thanks for this interesting post. I grew up near Carteret, New Jersey.
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer


on 9/11/04 1:24 PM, julian wilson at smnco37@yahoo.co.uk wrote:

> Dear Kimiko,
> I began using the "olde" Jersey sign-off when too many SCAdians on the Lists
> to which I subscribe wrongly assumed I lived in "New Jersey". I am sure that
> you realise that many places in the modern Eastern USA were named by their
> original settlers after places in Western Europe , - "New Amsterdam" which
> became "New York", (New) Orleans,  Portsmouth, Plymouth, (New) Hampshire,
> Boston, - the list is very long.
> 
> What is now the State of "New Jersey" originally comprised part of the lands
> in the "new world" Royally granted to Sir George De Carteret, whose family had
> at that time held Offices under the Crown at the English Court, - and in the
> Anglo Norman isle of Jersey,  [15 miles off the Normandy coast in the Gulf  of
> Mont St. Michel],  for 400 years and more - since the time of The Conquest in
> 1066AD. 
> 
> The De Carteret Family of Jersey [where they held the Fief of St Ouen as
> Chefs-Tenant to our Duke, The King, ] originated in Normandy, with their
> principal Honour [estates] around the ancient seaport town of Carteret on the
> Cherbourg peninsula [this was their largest estate]  -  held by Knight Service
> originally from their Liege Lord Duke William [The Bastard* of Normandy.
> Note* - not a derogatory term at that time when it simpoly denoted birth of an
> acknowledged son to an official Mistress rather than to a lawful Wife].
> Duke William The Bastard [descended from the Viking Leader Rollo of the 10th
> century] - was a Ruling Prince in his own Right, who became King William the
> First of England following his defeat of the Saxon Army of King Harold at the
> Battle of Santlache - which the English name Hastings, - in 1066 AD,  - and
> Siegneur Guillaume de Carteret commanded a Wing [or Battel] of Duke William's
> invading army.
> 
> During the Tudor Period, the De Carterets of Jersey became prominent at the
> English Court - and invested liegemen and money in expeditions to discover the
> "new world"; - and these eventually led to Royal Land Grants in what became
> the State of New Jersey. That is the connection.
> 
> "Kit" - an English military and naval word for personal equipment of any kind
> not including personal weapons. I am not sure when it first appeared in the
> English military and naval lexicon, but I believe that was probably around the
> time of the Boer War in S. Africa, 1899-1902    Certainly by the time of the
> Great War 1914-1918 - English soldiers and sailors carried their persoanl
> equipment in large,  tubular, stout, canavs bags officially named "kitbags"
> There is a famous marching song of that time [still being sung during WW2]
> titled "Pack-Up Your Troubles" of which the first line runs - "Pack up your
> troubles in your old kitbag, and smile, smile, smile...."     US soldiers have
> or had  "footlockers" for the same purpose, so I am told.
> OK, I'm beginning to lecture, so I'll stop here.
> But you did ask.
> Julian,
> in "olde" Jersey.
> 
> Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com> wrote:
> At 08:40 AM 9/11/2004 +0100, you wrote:
>> Julian,
>> in "olde" Jersey.
> 
> 
> Hi Julian,
> 
> I am a Californian who hasn't traveled much, and while I know "New" Jersey
> is the ... well, newer American state back east near "New" York, where
> exactly is "old" Jersey?
> 
>> the proven research which precedes every new bit of kit we produce.
> 
> And I kinda like your term of "kit" that you gave in describing "garb". It
> also isn't a term I am familiar with. Now that I understand your use of
> garb, what is your use of "kit"?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Kimiko
> 
> ---------------------------------
> ALL-NEW Yahoo! Messenger - all new features - even more fun!
> _______________________________________________
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Dear Ruth, 
well, now you know where the town's name originally came from - the little, tidal,  Norman fishing port of Carteret, on the S. coast of the Cherbourg peninsula, midway between Flamanville, and Granville. 
 
It is actually the closest French port to Jersey, - and with the tidal reef of the Ecrehous midway between the two, was probably - nay, almost certainly - at one time the main port handling trade with Jersey. Because if a storm came along, the open-water journey was halved by the little islands of the Ecrehous Reef, where the Abbey of Avranches even had a small monastic setlement, and there was - still is - a small protected lagoon-style anchorage where one can ride out a storm. 
 
Medieval sailing vessels would not have averaged more than 4 knots "over the ground" even with a favourable wind, and tide - but that meant a journey stopping at the Ecrehous Reef might only take 2 hours, - and then one could overnight there, and continue the journey the next day, also with favourable tides. - They run faster around the British Channel Islands than almost anywhere else in the world - the tidal range is the world 2nd largest - only Nova Scotia has a greater rise & fall, and consequently faster [and stronger therefore] tidal currents.
Julian,
in "olde" Jersey
In Service,
Julian, 
in "olde" Jersey.

ruthanne baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com> wrote:
Dear Julian,
Thanks for this interesting post. I grew up near Carteret, New Jersey.
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
		
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 16:04:54 2004
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Status: RO

One of the things that I really like about this list is the fact that we 
usually have an off-topic topic running among the on-topic posts and I 
almost always find the off-topic topic interesting <g>.

So, here's a new one ...

How many of the members don't know anything about polio or smallpox? When 
Ruthanne and I were growing up, these were *serious* (and deadly) concerns. 
These days, they exist only in laboratories.

My little sister contracted polio in 1951 at age one year, two weeks. Those 
were the barbaric days when polio victims were basically written off to 
die. As a child, I remember the iron-lungs, but they were not yet in wide 
use. Does anybody even remember seeing a *picture* of an iron lung? What a 
ghastly way to live, inside a machine that does your breathing for you <ugh>.

My mother was a nurse and part of her study had been under Sister Kenny. 
Does anybody have any idea who she was and the heroic impact she made on 
modern medical treatment? Anyway, after the doctors did their thing, Mom 
did the Sister Kenny thing. Nikki walks with a limp, but SHE WALKS because 
of the unorthodox Sister Kenny treatment that Mom performed against 
doctors' orders. She dances a bit funny but she swims like a fish.

People sometimes complain about doctors and medicine, but due to the 
advances in treatment from even 50 years ago, a lot of us are alive 
(including myself) that would have died in those days.

Now, getting back on topic a bit. I wonder how many people have died 
because of heat exhaustion because of being told that salt is bad for us? I 
have a couple of bottles of salt tablets for the really hot days when I 
work in the garden in defiance of the heat.

Katie, who has received Kass's Elizabethan gown pattern and looks forward 
to making a ropa.


>In a sense I started life as a costumer--at least, back in those
>keep-the-kids-quiet-at-midday-in-summer days (for fear of polio, and does
>that date me?),


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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: the word garb
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The term "regalia" was chosen in about the `70 and `80s because many NAs
felt that what was worn, their traditional and dance clothing was not a
costume by Halloween definition as most of them probably only knew the term
costume in reference to Halloween and theatre (mainly Hollywood movies). My
Friend Blue Sky's father called them costumes, this was in the `50s and
`60s. He was of Mashpee descent and was usually on the Cheyenne and Lakota
Res' or introducing NA ways to non NAs.
Why "regalia", I and a few other have always wondered.
There are those that have gotten a bit rabid about it. Blue Sky is 67 years
old and a descendant of Massosoit's daughter. One of these rabid "must call
it regalia" people (looked to be 25 -30yrs old) admonished her for calling
her buckskin dress a costume and as I said it is what her father called it.
That person lost quite a few people's respect that day.

De

-----Original Message-----
This turn of the conversation puts me in the mind of a suitable word choice
to denote clothing of Native Americans.  My brother in law (New England/
Canadian Tribes) insisted I should use the term "regalia" in reference to
any
clothing which I was calling 'costume'. "Regalia" to me was ceremonially
connected in any other costume sense. Since the clothing I was providing for
theatrical use was 'ersatz', I objected to using his term. But he always
corrected me. I even took to using "garb" to make the difference between his
authentic clothing (antique and new) and what I was providing for other
venues, and he still insisted on "regalia".

Kathleen

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From: Michelle Plumb <mplumb@wideopenwest.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Extinct diseases
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 17:01:07 -0400
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The only thing I know about polio is the little sugar cubes with the pink 
stuff on it that we were given in school.

Sister Kenny?  Rosalind Russell played her in an old movie I saw on TCM last 
year.  But you know Hollywood.  It probably wasn't accurate.

Smallpox?  I read a book mentioning it.  It was a murder mystery set in 18th 
century America.  The back story was a doctor testing out a "vaccine" for the 
disease using an ill person's tissues inserted under the healthy person's 
skin.  Ick.

Michelle

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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 21:40:49 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What you all do with costumes
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I'm a British re-enactor, I make costumes for myself and my husband (and 
currently our stuffies!).  At the moment I do 12th century for an 
authentic, public-education type reenactment group, but I have also done 
SCA, various periods but focusing on early Tudor, and the occasional bit 
of 18th and 19th century for fancy dress.

I enjoy discussing detail for the periods I know something about, and 
listening to all the fascinating information other people have about the 
rest.

Jean



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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE:  Court Garb in hot weather[ bit long]
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otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote
>-----Original Message-----
>
>
>De
>Note: perhaps, though it is not life threatening, people can say what they
>do for those wet/damp weekends as well as the brisk weekends.
>
At events where it pours, I always feel really smug (as well as snug) in 
a nice cloak and hood, watching the public going round in strappy 
sandals and plastic ponchos.  And sitting in a tent, or under a shelter, 
thinking "you have cars, there are lovely tea rooms in town, why are you 
standing out there in the rain watching me being dry?"

Jean
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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Chassidim
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Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net> wrote
>
>While I'm pretending to be a dictionary, I will answer the question about
>the word "Chassidic," which I didn't see answered.
>
>Chassidim are a sect of ultra-orthodox Jews. They have some unique beliefs
>which I am not going to go into, suffice to say that they are quite unusual.
>Anyway, the costume part is that they have many rules about what they can
>and can't wear.
>
>Chassidim live in many places, but there is a big group (or groups?) in New
>York City. The men wear black clothes, and unusual hats, and have long locks
>of hair over their temples. You will often see people dressed as Chassidic
>men in crowd scenes of movies set in New York. Chassidic women have to cover
>their hair at all times, and wear long sleeved garments. I think they may
>have to wear skirts as well, and they are supposed to cover their legs.
>Bizarrely, this is often done by wearing stockings and wigs, so they don't
>look that much different from other women -- losing the whole point of the
>thing.
>
>Chaim Potok wrote a couple of novels about Hassidic Jews (another way to
>spell it). "The Chosen" is the most famous one, and it is frequently read in
>schools, so if you're interested you should be able to find it in your
>library. I would recommend skipping chapter one, if I remember correctly. It
>gets very interesting starting in chapter two.
>
>Gail Finke
>
By chance the other day I came across information on modest dress and 
headcovering under Jewish law.  I found it quite surprising.  While 
Christian and Muslim tradition is mainly about covering oneself in 
public, particularly in front of unrelated men, the ideal of Jewish 
headcovering is apparently for a married woman to keep her hair covered 
at *all* times, including in bed with her husband, and when combing it - 
you do so under a loose scarf. So what looks like a very similar 
requirement in all three "Abrahamic" religions is actually quite 
different.

Jean

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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: the word "kit"
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Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net> wrote
>on 9/11/04 7:20 AM, h-costume-request@indra.com at
>h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>
>> And I kinda like your term of "kit" that you gave in describing "garb". It
>> also isn't a term I am familiar with. Now that I understand your use of
>> garb, what is your use of "kit"?
>
>I'm going to make a stab at it and see if I'm right! As I understand it, the
>word "kit" is used by many reenactment groups to mean all the "stuff" that
>appertains to their costume and/or the role they play. So it would mean
>their belts, knives, shoes, spoons, hatpins, etc. Not just the garments. I
>don't know if it also includes furniture and camp things. In the US we
>generally use the word "kit" to mean gathered parts you assemble into
>something else, such as a model airplane kit, but this is more in line with
>the (here) old soldier's "kit bag" use, ie "Pack up your troubles in your
>old kit bag and smile, smile, smile!"
>
>Gail Finke
>
This is correct, but "kit" is used in both senses, eg:
"we have so much kit we had to buy a larger car" and
"sometimes I just walk to events in kit, rather than change when I get 
there"

A lot of British reenactors also use "civvies" (ie, civilian clothes) 
for modern clothing, from the same military background.

Jean
-- 
Jean Waddie
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 17:37:42 -0400
Organization: Medieval Hats: http://www.virtue.to
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I'm all fired up!

Are there folks who talk about hats-over-helmets on the re-enactment 
horseriding lists?

Now that I've been to my first ever SCA equestrian event, I can see vast 
possibilities.  There were some 8 or so horses and people in great 
outfits at this one, but not all of them had hats other than the modern 
safety helmets (black and shiny with a bill, or white and shiny and 
looked rather like a bicycle helmet).

The helmets tend to be large, so garb, and hats, which are large seem 
like a really good pairing.  I could easily see making a heart-shaped 
hat that could be tied onto one of those helmets -- take advantage of 
the bulk of the helmet, and hide it, at the same time.  You'd look like 
you weren't wearing a helmet, almost.

And the men could make a stuffed roll with a D-shaped cross section, so 
it would look like one of the truly huge stuffed roll hats.

My mind is dancing with delight thinking about this new frontier of 
hatmaking! (Apologies to those of you on the SCA-Milliners list who also 
got a version of this message.)

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

Frodo off to Mordor with Sam. Tiny little men caring about each other, 
rather cute really.  -- The very secret diaries
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From: "A. Thurman" <athurman@gmail.com>
To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Extinct diseases
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Status: RO

I'm aware of smallpox and polio, mostly because epidemiology is a pet
interest of mine, and I've read about them. Also, I do web development
for one of the National Institutes of Health, and actually read what
they put on the site - smallpox is much researched because of its
possible use as a bioweapon, and tuberculosis is returning as a public
health concern, due to the prevalence of antibacterial-resistant
strains.

Re: smallpox vaccination - my husband has the characteristic
vaccination scar, as he was born in Bogota Columbia in 1970,
when/where vaccinations were still offered. I was born in 1973, just a
year after smallpox vaccination ceased to be offered in the United
States (having been eradicated "in the wild"), and have no such scar.

I remember my mother telling me about polio scares when she was
growing up, and all the kids would be sent home and not allowed out.
She remembers taking the first vaccine on a sugar cube, probably from
my grandmother, who was a nurse.

Obligatory costume content - I wonder what they did to the clothes of
people who died of such infectious diseases? I'm guessing they were
burnt, but in times places when clothes were extremely valuable, was
this done often?

Allison T.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Extinct diseases
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I probably got one of the last standard, non-terrorism related smallpox
vaccines, back around 1980 as a child about to go spend several years on the
mission field. I was a bit disgruntled to find out that the vaccine I got
has probably lost all effect by now. =P

-E House
Liberty in Our Lifetime - www.freestateproject.org
Coming Soon - http://www.seamcheckers.com

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Subject: [h-cost] Jersey and Channel Islands
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Dear Julian,  Wow... thanks,  for the information.  I had no idea of all 
this - amazing.  Bridgette / Mari

>OK, after a glorious day re-enacting XVth Cent. Jersey living history at 
>the great Castle of Gorey [Mont Orgeuil - generally held to be the best 
>preserved, non-residential, medieval  castle in Britain - the finest 
>setting any re-enactment Group could wish for - eat your hearts out!] - 
>Julian is back on line for a while.
><big snip>
>This diversity of medieval cultures passing through our Islands gives our 
>re-enactment group a very wide choice of characters, fashions, etc.
>

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Subject: [h-cost] fwd: Samurai Costume Search, day 6... (fwd)
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Any one?


--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 
Emer's Needle Wares


-------------- Forwarded Message: -------------- 
From: "Olaf M." 
To: antir-costumers@antir.sca.org 
Subject: [antir-costumers] Samurai Costume Search, day 6... 
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 23:25:19 +0000 

Hi, I'm looking for a Samurai outfit for my friends. They run a sketch 
comedy tv show here in the seattle area, and one of the bits for the 
upcoming episode (a clever kurosawa-parody) requires a convincing Samurai 
outfit and Ninja outfit. 

The ninja is pretty easy to take care of, but I'm having a tough time 
finding anything samurai-ey. Someone (from Craigslist) recommended your 
group, I'm not sure what it is you do, but I'm kinda shotgunning this 
request to see if I can find anyone who knows someone who knows someone... 
and so on. 

So, if you know someone or are someone who owns/knows where to get a samurai 
outfit, please shoot me an email at Rabidium@hotmail.com or call me at 
206-Mud-Hatt (no joke) and fill me in. Tragically the show has no budget, so 
I can't pay, but you will get a credit, and the satisfaction of doing 
something good for some funny guys. If you require other compensation that 
isn't cash, maybe one of us can help you do something. 
Thanks in advance for your help! 
-Olaf 




--------------------------------------------------------------- 
Honourably yours, 
The Irreverend Olaf Malachowski 
(Accredited DcR., Phd, F.A.C.C.R.; and 
N.A.A.A.A.A.A.A.A.A. (National Association for the 
Advancement of Anglo, African, Asian and Assorted 
Agnostic or Atheistic Americans.) Founding Member) 
--------------------------------------------------------------- 

_________________________________________________________________ 
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 20:06:55 2004
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From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Linen/ Dye removal
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 17:32:22 -0500
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And sometimes you can use those odd results to your advantage! I recently
had 21 yards of cotton/linen herringbone that was a dark green, somewhere
between olive and forest. Bleaching (and dye remover as well; I actually
used both on different pieces of it) took it though some interesting color
changes! After a few seconds in a very dilute bath of bleach water, it
turned a lovely deep sky blue, then lightened gradually, keeping pretty much
the same color; then suddenly it went muddy grey and began to turn into a
light but saturated peach color! After than, it went to a completely
unsaturated light grey, and then finally a creamy ivory.

When I was bleaching it to get it as light as possible in order to overdye
it completely unrelated colors, I managed to get nice even versions of those
in-between shades. But wouldn't you know it, when I got to the last few
yards of it and actually WANTED them that pretty, deep sky blue, I couldn't
get an even shade for anything. Grr. I was probably trying too hard
(diluting the bleach even more than before); I should have just done exactly
what I did before, because too much exposure to oxygen during the bleaching
process is what messed me up.

-E House
Liberty in Our Lifetime - www.freestateproject.org
Coming Soon - http://www.seamcheckers.com

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So, do you have the horse yet?? :)  I'd love to see pictures when you 
are done, I could use one of these helmet covers.

Sg

Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> I'm all fired up!
>
> Are there folks who talk about hats-over-helmets on the re-enactment 
> horseriding lists?
>
> Now that I've been to my first ever SCA equestrian event, I can see 
> vast possibilities.  There were some 8 or so horses and people in 
> great outfits at this one, but not all of them had hats other than the 
> modern safety helmets (black and shiny with a bill, or white and shiny 
> and looked rather like a bicycle helmet).
>
> The helmets tend to be large, so garb, and hats, which are large seem 
> like a really good pairing.  I could easily see making a heart-shaped 
> hat that could be tied onto one of those helmets -- take advantage of 
> the bulk of the helmet, and hide it, at the same time.  You'd look 
> like you weren't wearing a helmet, almost.
>
> And the men could make a stuffed roll with a D-shaped cross section, 
> so it would look like one of the truly huge stuffed roll hats.
>
> My mind is dancing with delight thinking about this new frontier of 
> hatmaking! (Apologies to those of you on the SCA-Milliners list who 
> also got a version of this message.)
>
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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On Sat, 11 Sep 2004, Jean Waddie wrote:

> By chance the other day I came across information on modest dress and
> headcovering under Jewish law.  I found it quite surprising.  While
> Christian and Muslim tradition is mainly about covering oneself in
> public, particularly in front of unrelated men, the ideal of Jewish
> headcovering is apparently for a married woman to keep her hair
> covered at *all* times, including in bed with her husband, and when
> combing it - you do so under a loose scarf. So what looks like a very
> similar requirement in all three "Abrahamic" religions is actually
> quite different.

This might well be a particularly strict interpretation of the law by one
particular ultra-Orthodox sect. I'm Jewish, with some familiarity of the
range of traditions among various Jewish movements, and I've never heard
that particular reading before. However, I wouldn't be surprised if
whoever wrote what you read made it sound as though this were some
canonical "Jewish Law" that was supposed to apply to all Jews.

--Robin

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On Sat, 11 Sep 2004, Jean Waddie wrote:

> A lot of British reenactors also use "civvies" (ie, civilian clothes)  
> for modern clothing, from the same military background.

Oh, I like that much better than "mundanes," the usual SCA term.
And a nicer ring than my usual phrase, "modern clothes" (as in, "I need
time to change into modern clothes during the lunch break").

--Robin

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On Saturday 11 September 2004 4:04 pm, Katie Pleasance wrote:
[snip]
> My little sister contracted polio in 1951 at age one year, two weeks. Those
> were the barbaric days when polio victims were basically written off to
> die. As a child, I remember the iron-lungs, but they were not yet in wide
> use. Does anybody even remember seeing a *picture* of an iron lung? What a
> ghastly way to live, inside a machine that does your breathing for you
> <ugh>.

Yes, I saw a picture of an iron lung in an encyclopedia once.  

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 21:55:09 -0400
From: Judy Mitchell <judymitch@oldwaylane.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] GFD fitting question
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uh... we've got a question on another list relating to a fitting a GFD. 
I'm hoping those more experienced can answer this. I've never made it, 
so I don't know. I believe the person wants to turn the front 2 pieces, 
after fitting, into a single front piece and have the lacing/zipper 
(it's not historical clothing) in the back.

"Been having a look at the tutorials found at Robin Netherton's site
and at La Cotte Simple.

One question, for those more experienced or enlightened, regarding
the curved-front-seam fitting method:
would it be possible to obtain one simple front piece from where to
get a fitted pattern oncce the fitting process is finished and we're
happy with the results?
Would this one-piece front panel fit and support the bust as well as
the two-piece front panel does? I think it would, but then I've
never tried anything like this before..."

	Can anyone here answer? Thanks, much.

	-Judy Mitchell

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What you all do with costumes
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 22:24:05 -0400
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On Saturday 11 September 2004 2:16 pm, ruthanne baumgartner wrote:
[snip]
>  In grad school I decided to give up short skirts, so
> when I wanted to dress more fancy than jeans I made the long skirts, long
> dresses, and capes I took to wearing (had to make 'em--NOT in fashion
> then!). 

And for those of you not old enough to remember, back then items "not in 
fashion" were even less available than they are now.  There were many fewer 
second-hand/vintage clothing stores, and no equivalent of the Internet to 
hunt down rare items.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] GFD fitting question
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On Sat, 11 Sep 2004, Judy Mitchell wrote:

> One question, for those more experienced or enlightened, regarding
> the curved-front-seam fitting method:
> would it be possible to obtain one simple front piece from where to
> get a fitted pattern oncce the fitting process is finished and we're
> happy with the results?
> Would this one-piece front panel fit and support the bust as well as
> the two-piece front panel does? I think it would, but then I've
> never tried anything like this before..."

First: I generally use a straight front seam. I've tried a curved front,
most recently last year when I was making myself a new dress, and promptly
saw my bust drop to around my knees. I think the curved front might work
better for very small-busted women who want to *gain* some protrusion; I
have not found it to work well for uplift on large-busted women like me.
But different people like different silhouettes. And of course I'm already
accustomed to and comforatable with the straight-front approach.

Anyway: With a straight front, you can certainly make the front a single
piece; it will behave the same way as two pieces connected on the straight
grain. However, I never do this, at least not for the basic body-garment
layer. I've seen no evidence for a back fastening on this style, and a
great deal of evidence for a front opening. A back opening is a royal pain
to do up. Plus, since your back is curved, you also have to deal with
having to place your lacing on a curve; if you have a strong curve at the
small of the back, you'll find it's hard to make the lacing lie flat and
also to avoid scrunching or shifting.

For a fitted overdress (to go over the basic fitted dress), I have
occasionally used a back lacing, but I can't back it up historically. It
does work out a little easier than doing it on the basic dress, because
the overdress lacing isn't doing the work of shaping the figure and thus
isn't under as much pressure.

That said, yes, it will work to put your lacing on the back and to make
the front of a single panel. You will still probably have to insert a gore
at the front center to allow for the tummy bulge. (The "straight front" is
straight only from about the waist up, because there's a flare or gore
below that point.) 

I do not think a single front panel would work for a curved front seam
dress, where much of the fitting is done on that center seam. Eliminate
the center seam, and you lose your room for bust expansion and shaping.

I should also note that if you're going to do a straight front seam, don't
follow the sequence of steps on Tasha's site, where she has a side-by-side
comparison of curved-front and straight-front attempts on the same model.
When she created that photo essay, Tasha was experienced with doing curved
fronts, but had never tried a straight front before, and found out the
hard way that when you change the front seam, it's going to require some
significant changes in the rest of the fitting process -- things she was
not accustomed to doing. Her straight-front dress did not work out well
because she was unable to backtrack and re-work things she'd already done
in her usual way on the side seams, armhole, etc. to work with the
different cut in the front. She told me she was very frustrated by this --
she wanted to show how both methods could work well but produce different
shapes, not suggest that one method was "better" than the other ... but I
think a lot of people come away from that site with the message that
"curved front works better than straight front," which Tasha would be very
quick to say is not the case. The two cuts simply produce different looks,
and they do require different ways of addressing the body. I expect that
there was at least this much variation in technique during the period.

--Robin


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Extinct diseases
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I happen to have my small pox scar (born 1970), and my sister has hers as 
well (born 1974).  I also remember getting my polio vax as well.  As the 
joys of being a military brat.

Jennifer

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Extinct diseases
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I'm going to agree with that statement even though I titled the thread 
"extinct diseases". I read recently that a few cases of polio have shown up 
in eastern Africa, much to the surprise of the medical establishment.

As far as I know, smallpox *is* extinct in the wild.

Many others are extinct in developed countries and only show up there in 
travelers from 3rd world countries. I don't remember what it is, but there 
is some disease that has reestablished in California in the last few years, 
brought in by immigrants from poor countries, after decades of having been 
thought extinct in the US.

As probably all our members live in 'developed' countries, my reference to 
'extinct' really meant 'extinct in developed countries'. The purpose of the 
thread was to cause the younger members to reflect on the diseases that 
terrorized us older members but of which the younger members have little or 
no knowledge. Are polio vaccinations done any more? If not, polio virus 
could be used as a bio-terror weapon because the younger generations are 
not protected by vaccinations any more. Same thing with other diseases 
which are generally considered extinct in the developed countries.

Katie

At 10:27 AM 9/12/2004 -0700, you wrote:

>>How many of the members don't know anything about polio or smallpox? When 
>>Ruthanne and I were growing up, these were *serious* (and deadly) 
>>concerns. These days, they exist only in laboratories.
>
>Problem is, every time they think some disease is extinct, they find out 
>it isn't.  People still get polio, whooping cough, scarlet fever, 
>rheumatic fever, and all those other diseases the rest of us think are extinct.
>        CarolynKayta Barrows


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Extinct diseases and GFDs
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Katie Pleasance" <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2004 2:09 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Extinct diseases


 Are polio vaccinations done any more? If not, polio virus
> could be used as a bio-terror weapon because the younger generations are
> not protected by vaccinations any more. Same thing with other diseases
> which are generally considered extinct in the developed countries.
>
> Katie

I just turned 41, and I have the classic smallpox vaccination scar on my
upper arm, as does my older sister. I'm not so sure about my younger sister,
who was born in 1970.

But polio vaccines are still given to children. It's required to enter
school, generally given as part of a "triple-threat" vaccine--diphtherica,
polio, and pertussis ("whooping cough") combined into one vaccine, usually
given as a series of three shots several months apart.

And to make this costume related, I just found my copy of the McCalls
pattern for the cotehardie (8725). It only goes up to a 14, which is the
size I made up at least one baby ago and never quite finished. I tried it
on, and with a few modifications, I think I can get a decent GFD out of it.
I can't get to my Shire sewing nights, so I can't get anyone to do a true
fitting for me. I used the pattern down to the waist, but I used four gores
instead of the huge semi-circles the pattern used. I started the gores at
the waist, and realize now I should have started them at the hips to get
that beautiful fit. I have some mystery fabric in a subdued salmon-y color
that should work nicely--cut the pattern just a bit larger, set the gores at
the hips, and off I go!

Dianne


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From: "Cabbage Rose Costumes" <cabbagerose@sbcglobal.net>
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	<5.2.1.1.2.20040911085010.019984d8@postoffice8.mail.cornell.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What you all do with costumes
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Thanks so much!  Actually, that's not the score from the show, because we 
didn't want to violate the video contract.  We didn't pay for rights to tape 
the show with any of the composer's music.  But luckily we have this great 
kid who composed a bit of music that was suitable for the clips of the stage 
and costumes.  Then he shot that video with scenes the director staged to 
recreate the feel of the show.  All very technically done without any real 
show content!

As an artist I'm a stickler for the rules, and since I happen to also be the 
current Pres of the Board of Directors, I won't let them video the show 
content.  But one gets the feel of the show from a glimpse at the visuals. 
It's getting fabulous reviews, which I have to admit is rewarding.  I think 
that this is the first time almost every review has mentioned both costumes 
and makeup.   Usually, if I do my job right, no one notices the costumes 
because they simply set the period.  But this show has no period, just a lot 
of Teddy colors!  I thought about him the whole time I was picking out neon 
pink plastic for hot pants and making neon head pieces that sort of look 
like Byzantine sculptures, only way further out!   This show was just such a 
stretch and so much fun to take all the period information I glean here from 
years of listening to you all discuss the period correct way to dress, and 
reading dozens of books on Byzantium/ Charlemagne, and the HRE, then I put 
it all into the crazy blender  with a dahs of 70s color scheme (neon, hot 
pink, orange, green) and a 90s deconstructionist look (one-sleeved garments, 
unfinished edges).  I did these wild sculptured breast pieces with 
embellished leather that I knocked off from a designer's fall showing from 
01.  They were like a choker with a strip down to the waist and a belt.  I 
added random directional pieces around the body, making a corseted effect 
for both women and men, but the men remained shirtless.  Add a matching 
"codpiece" and voila.  Who knew leather came in neon?

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design

"Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:
be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,
and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:
be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
W. Shakespeare

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mari Stewart" <ms154@cornell.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2004 5:51 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What you all do with costumes


>
> Angela...  just peeked at the site...  love the concept!  And now I've got 
> the damn score going through my head  ; >
> Bridgette
>
>>So, I'll just chime in to state that I'm still in theatrical costuming, 
>>just finished designing Pippin, which one would think is Charlemagne's 
>>Europe, but if you saw the show it's a bit more like neon Charlemagne's 
>>Europe (fabric choices ala Teddy) on acid... Hey, at least you can't call 
>>me boring.  For cool visuals, there is a video (in which you can sort of 
>>see the costumes) at www.aclo.com.  I really had a fun time with this one.
>>
>>Cheers,
>>
>>angela
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: the word garb
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Thankyou for this explanation! Best one I have seen yet re "regalia". I knew
it had to be something like this.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2004 4:44 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: the word garb


> The term "regalia" was chosen in about the `70 and `80s because many NAs
> felt that what was worn, their traditional and dance clothing was not a
> costume by Halloween definition as most of them probably only knew the
term
> costume in reference to Halloween and theatre (mainly Hollywood movies).
My
> Friend Blue Sky's father called them costumes, this was in the `50s and
> `60s. He was of Mashpee descent and was usually on the Cheyenne and Lakota
> Res' or introducing NA ways to non NAs.
> Why "regalia", I and a few other have always wondered.
> There are those that have gotten a bit rabid about it. Blue Sky is 67
years
> old and a descendant of Massosoit's daughter. One of these rabid "must
call
> it regalia" people (looked to be 25 -30yrs old) admonished her for calling
> her buckskin dress a costume and as I said it is what her father called
it.
> That person lost quite a few people's respect that day.
>
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
> This turn of the conversation puts me in the mind of a suitable word
choice
> to denote clothing of Native Americans.  My brother in law (New England/
> Canadian Tribes) insisted I should use the term "regalia" in reference to
> any
> clothing which I was calling 'costume'. "Regalia" to me was ceremonially
> connected in any other costume sense. Since the clothing I was providing
for
> theatrical use was 'ersatz', I objected to using his term. But he always
> corrected me. I even took to using "garb" to make the difference between
his
> authentic clothing (antique and new) and what I was providing for other
> venues, and he still insisted on "regalia".
>
> Kathleen
>
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: Extinct diseases
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I remember hearing a year ago and more recently that salt tablets are not
being recommended anymore. Something about water retention and problems with
interfering with sweating which is necessary for cooling the body down.
It's late and my brain is mush.

De
-----Original Message-----
At 01:04 PM 9/11/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>Does anybody even remember seeing a *picture* of an iron lung? What a
>ghastly way to live, inside a machine that does your breathing for you
<ugh>.


Yes, I remember the iron lung as a picture in a school health class.

But I do not know Sister Kenny. Who was she and what did she do as a
treatment that helped your sister?

<<Now, getting back on topic a bit. I wonder how many people have died
because of heat exhaustion because of being told that salt is bad for us? I
have a couple of bottles of salt tablets for the really hot days when I
work in the garden in defiance of the heat.>>

I take salt during hot days at ren faire. I also enjoy salty foods as well
(dill pickles, pretzels, olives, etc.)  to help keep the body's water
levels going. Not sure what all it does to me, but it really helps keep me
going.

Kimiko



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Salt: was Re: Extinct diseases
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On Sunday, September 12, 2004, at 10:49 AM, Katie Pleasance wrote:

> Now -- on to heat and salt tablets. It has been unseasonably hot here 
> in northern California for the last few weeks and I noticed that I've 
> cut down on the carbonated beverages and switched to guzzling huge 
> amounts of lemonade; also, I'm gobbling olives by the jar-full and 
> drinking the juice. I had not connected it to the heat. Looking back, 
> I do this every summer and never during the cooler months. Maybe my 
> body is telling me to replace my electrolytes! I will stock up on 
> pickles and gatoraid  and throw away my salt tablets <g>.
>
> Katie
>

Stocking up on pickles instead of salt tablets is an excellent idea. :) 
Salt tablets can indeed cause more problems than they solve, and in all 
but extreme cases, they really aren't needed. When you are doing 
strenuous activity in the heat some extra salt can be good, but it's 
much better to get that from regular food - which is why the 
waterbearers at SCA events here pass out trays of pickles and oranges 
as well as water.

The recent Chirurgeon General (head officer of the first-aid providers) 
of the SCA wrote an excellent article on re-hydration not too long ago, 
including discussions of salt, sports drinks, etc., which I would be 
happy to forward to anyone who is interested.


Andrea

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I have no children, therefore no grandchildren. I have little knowledge of 
current child-rearing practices, including such things as vaccinations. I'm 
pleased to see that they are still required.

Katie


>But polio vaccines are still given to children. It's required to enter
>school, generally given as part of a "triple-threat" vaccine--diphtherica,
>polio, and pertussis ("whooping cough") combined into one vaccine, usually
>given as a series of three shots several months apart.
>Dianne


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> On Saturday 11 September 2004 4:04 pm, Katie Pleasance wrote:
> [snip]
> > My little sister contracted polio in 1951 at age one year, two weeks.
Those
> > were the barbaric days when polio victims were basically written off to
> > die. As a child, I remember the iron-lungs, but they were not yet in
wide
> > use. Does anybody even remember seeing a *picture* of an iron lung? What
a
> > ghastly way to live, inside a machine that does your breathing for you
> > <ugh>.
>
 Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com> Wrote:

> Yes, I saw a picture of an iron lung in an encyclopedia once.

I saw a real one about two years ago, on display in the lobby of an art
gallery. (on loan from the local University) It gave me a serious case of
the heebie-geebies. Otherwise, I remember learning about them in elementary
school, we learned in our science class about 'old' diseases. (very early
80's)

Sheridan
Sheridan


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Dear Kimiko,
[and any other interested Listers following this thread],
if you would like to see photos of Gorey Castle, and our Companie "at playe"; - I recommend that - [because our own webmaster is snowed-under with his mundane job at the moment] - you go to www.greydragon.org,  - subfile < "what's New" >;  - subfile < "Jersey Revels" >; - there are lots of pictures of our Group, our camp, of the Castle, and of the rest of the events at our recent 3-day-long Medieval Festival held in late-July. 
Our Guests, Master Terafan Greydragon and his Lady, have been able to post their own pictures more quickly than our own Group's mundanely-over-worked webmaster.
In Service,
Julian,
in "olde" Jersey,
15 miles off the French coast.

Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com> wrote:
At 06:24 PM 9/11/2004 +0100, you wrote:
>OK, I'm beginning to lect ure,soI'llstophere.
>But you did ask.
>Julian,
>in "olde" Jersey.


Yes, I did ask, and I appreciate your reply. Thanks so much for sharing. I 
like learning new things like this.

Kimiko


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>I'm going to agree with that statement even though I titled the thread 
>"extinct diseases". I read recently that a few cases of polio have shown 
>up in eastern Africa, much to the surprise of the medical establishment.

Extinction is forever, so we get complacent about diseases labeled as 
extinct.  Bubonic plague is still around too, and I heard a rumor that 
Albuquerque, New Mexico, sees one or two cases of it every year.

I was unaware that polio victims were quarantined.  Was this done 
everywhere?  A guy I used to date, born in Hawaii, had polio, and never 
mentioned quarantining (tho he did have lots of hospital stories).

Obligatory costume content:  I was born in 1949, and my smallpox 
vaccination scar is on the inside of my left thigh instead of on either 
arm.  This is fortunate for me when I do historical evening dresses.  I 
don't remember getting vaccinated.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: [h-cost] Fwd: Solar powered jacket
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>http://www.scottevest.com/pressrelease/sev_solar/index.html

Not an endorsement, only a FYI - I'm certainly not going to buy one of 
these.  The jacket comes with photo-voltaic panels on the back, and lots of 
pockets in which to put your PDA, cell phone, etc. which can use the 
chargeable battery the jacket also comes with.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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From: "Helen  Pinto" <hpinto@mindspring.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Extinct diseases
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 15:16:12 -0400
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On the topic of polio/iron lungs, this was on the local (Pittsburgh, PA)
news website this past week:
http://www.thepittsburghchannel.com/team4/3421655/detail.html
In the 50's, I was lucky enough to get all the immunizations (the hard way)
and missed the major diseases.  Other kids I knew were not so lucky.  I got
the immunizations for the minor diseases the traditional way- from some
other kid, usually my younger brother.
                   -Helen/Aidan


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Subject: [h-cost] ersatz
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>'ersatz',

I think this word, in the original German, means 'substitute', like the 
'ersatz coffee' in WWII, which was Postum or some other non-coffee 
drink.  It's pronounced "Air sats".

        CarolynKayta Barrows
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          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Extinct diseases
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>How many of the members don't know anything about polio or smallpox? When 
>Ruthanne and I were growing up, these were *serious* (and deadly) 
>concerns. These days, they exist only in laboratories.

Problem is, every time they think some disease is extinct, they find out it 
isn't.  People still get polio, whooping cough, scarlet fever, rheumatic 
fever, and all those other diseases the rest of us think are extinct.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
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          www.FunStuft.com

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: the word 'garb' (was Re: [h-cost] What you all do with costumes
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>And I'll take this moment to add a tiny note about one of my 
>personal  'teeth grinders' -  The use of the word 'garb' in the SCA - 
>Although many will see it as a perfectly fine word - Its meaning, 
>especially in the SCA, is colored to mean something unreal, temporary, or 
>costume-like.  I prefer to use the word clothing for the pieces I 
>make.  Indeed,  my efforts are not shoddy, temporary, make-do or to be 
>confused with theatrical clothing.

Your concern is why the SCA went away from the use of the word 'costume' 
for what they wear.  'Garb' sounds much more like clothing than 'costume' 
does.  I think the word 'clothing' stopped being used because a need was 
felt to differentiate 'mundanes', everyday clothes, from the clothes SCA 
people wore at their costumed events.  And it's shorter too say - 'garb' is 
one syllable, where 'SCA clothes' comes out as four syllables.

OTOH, to me everything people wear is costume.  Consider:  what I am 
wearing right now, as I type this e-mail, might someday appear in a costume 
book.  Its exact composition can described in terms of the year in which it 
is worn, and my age, social class, and geographic area.  It can be related 
to other examples in the same year, age group, social class, and geographic 
area, and contrasted with what my two daughters are wearing this morning 
(assuming they're awake).  It follows certain assumptions about fashion 
lag.  And it's not the same costume I wear for other occasions in my life 
(job interviews, sleeping, living history events, etc.).

100 years from now some costume historian might care about the kinds of 
garments I'm wearing right now, or write a thesis/costume book chapter 
about them, and some theatrical costume designer might be so glad they 
wrote it.  But in the here and now my Fashion Police daughter insists 
(loudly and often) that my everyday-wear is all just clothes.  And she 
doesn't say "that's not period", she says "Mom, you're not really going to 
wear that, are you?" or "I don't think you should wear those shoes with 
that outfit" or "don't wear that (fiber-artsy) jacket when you come to pick 
me up from school".

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Katie Pleasance <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Extinct diseases
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I know the following about Sister Kenny and nothing more <sigh>. Her 
unorthodox treatment of polio patients was greatly resented by the medical 
profession at the time. My mother got her nursing school training in 
Seattle and studied under Sister Kenny for part of her training.

The treatment consisted of heating the patient in the medical version of a 
hot tub to relax the muscles and then repeatedly stretching the muscles 
with what has become known as range-of-motion exercises. Polio causes 
paralysis and permanent muscle contraction. The result was that the arms 
and legs pulled tightly against the body and then the muscles froze, 
incapable of un-contracting. That is, if they chest muscles were still 
capable of working (hence the use of the "iron lung", which used a partial 
vacuum to expand the chest, filling the lungs with air, then releasing the 
partial vacuum, letting the weight of the body [or maybe it was a positive 
pressure] force the air out of the lungs. Before the iron lung, most polio 
patients suffocated to death.)

Nikki was paralyzed everywhere except that she could move her head and one 
arm and her chest *slightly*. Because of the Sister Kenny treatment, she 
now is now paralyzed nowhere. The only reminder of the polio is that one 
leg is shorter than the other and that some muscles never fully developed, 
so she walks with a limp and lacks arm muscle strength. Somehow she never 
needed the iron lung, though she used body braces and leg braces and 
crutches throughout her childhood. After a mental breakdown following her 
12th reconstructive surgery (when she was a teenager), my parents decided 
that walking with a limp was okay and at last the endless surgeries and 
stays in the hospital ended.

Oh, yeah, and we were quarantined. The local police posted the house with 
notices that we could not leave and that nobody could enter. Mom called the 
neighbors, who bought food and left it on the doorstep, where Mom left 
money. I have no idea how Daddy was able to work. Probably he wasn't. 
Eventually the quarantine ended and life was allowed to return to a 
semblance of normality.

People today have no idea of the terror that polio put in everybody, 
especially parents, before the Salk and Sabine vaccines.

I remember getting a smallpox vaccination in the early 70s so that I could 
travel overseas. As I remember, it was required by the State Department and 
I got the shots when I got my passport.


Now -- on to heat and salt tablets. It has been unseasonably hot here in 
northern California for the last few weeks and I noticed that I've cut down 
on the carbonated beverages and switched to guzzling huge amounts of 
lemonade; also, I'm gobbling olives by the jar-full and drinking the juice. 
I had not connected it to the heat. Looking back, I do this every summer 
and never during the cooler months. Maybe my body is telling me to replace 
my electrolytes! I will stock up on pickles and gatoraid  and throw away my 
salt tablets <g>.

Katie

>Kate wrote:
>Sister Kenny did a form of physical therapy combined with heat, if I
>remember correctly. Pretty much unheard of at the time.


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Subject: The word garb was: Re: [h-cost] What you all do with costumes
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> And I'll take this moment to add a tiny note about one of my
> personal  'teeth grinders' -  The use of the word 'garb' in the SCA -
> Although many will see it as a perfectly fine word - Its meaning,
> especially in the SCA, is colored to mean something unreal, temporary, or
> costume-like.  I prefer to use the word clothing for the pieces I
> make.  Indeed,  my efforts are not shoddy, temporary, make-do or to be
> confused with theatrical clothing.

Many people in the SCA wear just that: costumes. I made a couple of quick
pieces to wear when camping, but I'm going more and more towards real
clothing. What I make are not costumes anymore.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Extinct diseases
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>


>
> >How many of the members don't know anything about polio or smallpox? When
> >Ruthanne and I were growing up, these were *serious* (and deadly)
> >concerns. These days, they exist only in laboratories.
>
> Problem is, every time they think some disease is extinct, they find out
it
> isn't.  People still get polio, whooping cough, scarlet fever, rheumatic
> fever, and all those other diseases the rest of us think are extinct.


A friend of mine was shocked when I mentioned to her that The Plague is
still around, usually a few cases show up around the world each year. I also
had a co-worker very upset at having to get shots for malaria the last time
she traveled, she had thought it was an 'old' disease.

Speaking of malaria, didja know you can still get tonic with Quinine (sp?)
in it? (Hmm, actually I think someone on this list was just talking about
that...) A friend of mine who was very into British military history told me
that it was easier to get the medication into their gin and tonics than to
get the guys to remember to take it as a pill. Sounds like good psychology
to me. :-) Kinda like those cough syrup freezer pops they have for kids
now..

Sheridan


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Extinct diseases
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>Extinction is forever, so we get complacent about diseases labeled as 
>extinct.  Bubonic plague is still around too, and I heard a rumor that 
>Albuquerque, New Mexico, sees one or two cases of it every year.

Bubonic and/or pneumonic plague is endemic in much of the mountainous 
regions in eastern California. It's carried by the ground squirrels. (My 
Lord Husband is in the Sierras this weekend, cutting firewood on a friend's 
property -- there are ground squirrels *everywhere!*) You don't hear about 
it because the health departments know about it and are speedy in dealing 
with any cases that show up. I think it might be considered "undesirable 
publicity" if it was better known how common it is in the local wildlife. I 
assume that at least one form of plague is endemic in most of the western US.


>I was unaware that polio victims were quarantined.  Was this done 
>everywhere?  A guy I used to date, born in Hawaii, had polio, and never 
>mentioned quarantining (tho he did have lots of hospital stories).

We lived in Cheyenne, Wyoming at the time. In that location, at that time, 
polio cases were quarantined. I don't about elsewhere / elsewhen.

Katie

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Why are we getting into off-topic areas?  If we want to do so, then 
let's discuss something like politics! ;-)  Anyone up for that?

Sylrog, running for virtual cover

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Katie Pleasance <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Extinct diseases
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In a way, this exemplifies a point that I wanted to make -- modern society 
is so dependant on technology that a failure of even a part of technology 
(such as discontinuance of manufacturing parts for iron lungs) can mean a 
death sentence to those who are dependant on them and don't have a way to 
cope without them. It's not just in medicine but in things like power 
transmission - what happens if some terrorist destroys the factory that 
makes a chip that is vital to the computers that control the power networks?

Many of the young people who grew up with computers and cell phones, etc. 
have no way of coping if things get bad, such as an epidemic. We are seeing 
examples of this in Florida right now. The cell phones go out of service 
and communication ends up depending on amateur radio hobbyists, who are 
themselves becoming a dying breed.

We just bought retirement land and our house will have solar cells on the 
roof and a windmill. If the local power goes down (which frequently happens 
in rural areas throughout the country) we won't even notice.


What does this have to do with costuming? Costumers are 
do-it-yourself-type-people and probably are involved in other forms of 
personal independence in addition to being able to make their own clothes 
<smile>. I think that the most important aspect of the SCA is that SCA 
members are doers, investigating and learning skills forgotten by the rest 
of modern society.

Katie

At 03:16 PM 9/12/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>On the topic of polio/iron lungs, this was on the local (Pittsburgh, PA)
>news website this past week:
>http://www.thepittsburghchannel.com/team4/3421655/detail.html


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Hi,
Talking about other and better things than extinct deseases.
While working on the courtdress i have only had my mind thinking about the
next projekt i am starting soon. The original dress is in the huge costume
book from Kyoto, not Revolution, but the other one. It is a large pannier
dres with pleated ruches and small bouques of flowers spread along the
ruches. Originally made with chenille threads.
I have ordered a large skein of undyed silk chenille, and i want to dye it
in some colours that will suit the pale yellow silk taffeta. Then i have
ordered some embroidery books about stumpwork so that i can get some ideas
to make 3-dimensional flowers of the chenille.
I was thinking about making the flowerleaves by outlining with millinery
wire and then weave the chenille back and forth, but for the flowers i am
not sure!
Long live Amazon.com next week i will have the books!


Bjarne



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> Why aren't faires held indoors where it is cooler? The cost of renting a
> large enough arena and paying for the A/C, especially on the tight budgets
> most faire producers have.

SCA events tend to be smaller (often much smaller), so it's easier to hold
them inside. Plus, they're not intended for the general public - only the
people willing to wear a costume will participate :-)

But around here in Montreal, Canada, it's almost impossible to hold an event
outside in the winter, or even in the Fall or early Spring. Events are
usually held outside from May to September, but I personnally refuse to camp
any earlier than mid-June and any later than early September, because the
nights get too cold (close to freezing). There is often an indoors feast
hall where we go in the evening. Winter events are always held inside,
although the fighting and fencing, and sometimes archery, will occasionnaly
move outside, if there's room for it and if there's not too much snow on the
ground. That way, you keep the fighters cool and the non-fighters
comfortably warm :-) We often rent school gyms, scout camps or church
basements. When we organized Crown Tourney, we got a huge warehouse on a
nearby military base because several members of the local group were in the
military.

Some medieval RPG groups here built longhouse-like halls so they could
organize events. We sometimes rent those too for the events. But with the
budget we have, we make do with whatever we can find. You learn not to see
what's modern, after a while.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] fwd: Samurai Costume Search, day 6... (fwd)
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I know Folwear have nice patterns for that kind of thing (Japanese Hakama &
Kataginu, among others). That's probably not going to help you much, but
that's all I can suggest.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <gia_gavino@comcast.net>
To: "Costume Historical" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2004 7:50 PM
Subject: [h-cost] fwd: Samurai Costume Search, day 6... (fwd)


> Any one?
>
>
> --
> Slan go foill
> Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri
> Emer's Needle Wares
>
>
> -------------- Forwarded Message: -------------- 
> From: "Olaf M."
> To: antir-costumers@antir.sca.org
> Subject: [antir-costumers] Samurai Costume Search, day 6...
> Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2004 23:25:19 +0000
>
> Hi, I'm looking for a Samurai outfit for my friends. They run a sketch
> comedy tv show here in the seattle area, and one of the bits for the
> upcoming episode (a clever kurosawa-parody) requires a convincing Samurai
> outfit and Ninja outfit.
>
> The ninja is pretty easy to take care of, but I'm having a tough time
> finding anything samurai-ey. Someone (from Craigslist) recommended your
> group, I'm not sure what it is you do, but I'm kinda shotgunning this
> request to see if I can find anyone who knows someone who knows someone...
> and so on.
>
> So, if you know someone or are someone who owns/knows where to get a
samurai
> outfit, please shoot me an email at Rabidium@hotmail.com or call me at
> 206-Mud-Hatt (no joke) and fill me in. Tragically the show has no budget,
so
> I can't pay, but you will get a credit, and the satisfaction of doing
> something good for some funny guys. If you require other compensation that
> isn't cash, maybe one of us can help you do something.
> Thanks in advance for your help!
> -Olaf
>
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------- 
> Honourably yours,
> The Irreverend Olaf Malachowski
> (Accredited DcR., Phd, F.A.C.C.R.; and
> N.A.A.A.A.A.A.A.A.A. (National Association for the
> Advancement of Anglo, African, Asian and Assorted
> Agnostic or Atheistic Americans.) Founding Member)
> --------------------------------------------------------------- 
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE!
> hthttp://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------- 
> To unsubscribe, e-mail: antir-costumers-unsubscribe@antir.sca.org
> For additional commands, e-mail: antir-costumers-help@antir.sca.org
> _______________________________________________
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: The word garb was: Re: [h-cost] What you all do with costumes
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 15:06:42 -0500
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Costume seems to invoke now a days, pictures of Halloween, theatre throw
together, cheap fabrics, etc.  "costume" use to mean anything that is not
worn normally everyday, plus it did not denote the quality of the sewing and
materials.
What we wear everyday will on down the line become labeled as costume [and a
little later retro]
So no matter how well you sew your kirtle, sideless, plastron.. you are
still making a costume.
Costume originated from consuetumen custom. Doublet of custom.

De

-----Original Message-----
Many people in the SCA wear just that: costumes. I made a couple of quick
pieces to wear when camping, but I'm going more and more towards real
clothing. What I make are not costumes anymore.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extinct diseases
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Polio is FAR from extinct. There is an epidemic raging in Africa right now.

It was almost under control, but in the northern Muslim states of 
Nigeria, religious men began telling mothers not to allow their 
children to be vaccinated because the vaccine was part of a global 
plot to sterilize Muslims and this was taken up by the local state 
governments who BANNED the vaccine. So there have been hundreds of 
cases in Nigeria.

Not only that, but the outbreak of polio spread to neighboring 
countries. Over the past 12 months, TEN African countries that had 
been free of the disease for several years now have recorded cases of 
polio traceable to northern Nigeria.  The most recently infected 
country is Sudan, considerably to the east of Nigeria, which recorded 
a case in the Darfur region where there are millions of refugees 
fleeing government supported genocide.

Apparently people in the national government of Nigeria finally 
convinced the government of the state of Kano to begin the 
vaccination process again - they are importing vaccine from 
Indonesia, the world's most populous Muslim country.

But of course it's too late for those who died or are now permanently crippled.

There are six countries in the world still have endemic, freely 
circulating, polio virus in their populations - Nigeria, India, 
Pakistan, Niger, Afghanistan and Egypt. Polio is not yet extinct.

I have a friend who is Indian who got polio as a child - i think he's 
about 40 - and he was from an educated middle class family.

Sorry no costume content.

Anahita
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 13:17:41 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Katie Pleasance <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Extinct diseases; political threads
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I noticed that this list usually has an off-topic topic running at any 
particular time, in addition to the garb-related topics. So long as it 
doesn't get out of hand, people seem to find it enjoyable. If we had 
several such topics going at the same time, I think it would be a problem; 
also, if it dominated the list in detriment to other topics, it would be a 
problem. I have a feeling that by tomorrow afternoon, it will have burned 
itself out. If it doesn't die on it's own, Bice will tell us to 
knock-it-off, but I don't think that will be necessary.

Regarding politics - political threads too often turn into flame wars.

I was a military translator in Vietnam for 27 months (Kerry only served 4 
and a half), working for Civil Operations and Rural Development, a 
sub-agency of the US State Department. I have more medals (yeah, there were 
quite a few women who served in 'Nam, mostly nurses and finance personnel 
and a few translators like me and a few of us got medals for risky 
behaviour) than Mr. Kerry (my Bronze Star equals his Bronze Star and my 
Cross of Gallantry from the Vietnamese government outranks his Silver 
Star). I came home 6 months after his public accusation that I and my 
comrades were out-of-control baby-killers and less than 3 months before Da 
Nang (where I worked most of the time) was over-run by the North 
Vietnamese. A lot of my Vietnamese friends were summarily shot or ended up 
in "re-education" camps. Have you ever been spit upon for giving a few 
years of your life for your country? Do your really want a political 
discussion with somebody who broke down in church during the sermon this 
last Fourth of July because the minister was reminding the congregation to 
support our people in military service, regardless of what you think of the 
politics that put them at risk, and I remembered the disgraceful way that I 
and my fellow veterans were treated when we came home? Do you really want 
to know what I think of Mr. Kerry?

Do you *really* want a political thread on this list???

My apologies to anybody that the preceding paragraphs might offend. I will 
not respond on the list to any posting that results to this posting. I do 
NOT intend it to begin a political thread.


I don't have anything garb-related to say right now, but if you bring up an 
on-topic topic, it might be something that I'd want to respond to ...

Katie

>Why are we getting into off-topic areas?  If we want to do so, then let's 
>discuss something like politics! ;-)  Anyone up for that?
>Sylrog, running for virtual cover


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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Extinct diseases; political threads
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 14:34:43 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I wouldnt mind a political thread but my point in mentioning it was 
just to reassert again that this is supposed to be a historical costume 
list and I was getting tired of discussion about diseases, which dont 
seem to have anything to do with the subject.  If we're going 
off-topic, I'd rather it was political in nature, since I think this 
election  may be the most important one of my lifetime and more worthy 
of discussion than ancient diseases.  But I'm not going to use this as 
a political platform.  I did that once before in a fit of desperation 
about a year and a half ago (maybe not with this list-I dont recall) 
and I got flamed up the wazoo.

Sylrog

On Sep 12, 2004, at 2:17 PM, Katie Pleasance wrote:

>
> I was a military translator in Vietnam for 27 months (Kerry only 
> served 4 and a half), working for Civil Operations and Rural 
> Development, a sub-agency of the US State Department. I have more 
> medals (yeah, there were quite a few women who served in 'Nam, mostly 
> nurses and finance personnel and a few translators like me and a few 
> of us got medals for risky behaviour) than Mr. Kerry (my Bronze Star 
> equals his Bronze Star and my Cross of Gallantry from the Vietnamese 
> government outranks his Silver Star). I came home 6 months after his 
> public accusation that I and my comrades were out-of-control 
> baby-killers and less than 3 months before Da Nang (where I worked 
> most of the time) was over-run by the North Vietnamese. A lot of my 
> Vietnamese friends were summarily shot or ended up in "re-education" 
> camps. Have you ever been spit upon for giving a few years of your 
> life for your country? Do your really want a political discussion with 
> somebody who broke down in church during the sermon this last Fourth 
> of July because the minister was reminding the congregation to support 
> our people in military service, regardless of what you think of the 
> politics that put them at risk, and I remembered the disgraceful way 
> that I and my fellow veterans were treated when we came home? Do you 
> really want to know what I think of Mr. Kerry?
>
> Do you *really* want a political thread on this list???
>

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on 9/12/04 Katya wrote:

> People still get polio, whooping cough, scarlet fever, rheumatic
> fever, and all those other diseases the rest of us think are extinct.

Who thinks those diseases are extinct? They are far from extinct even in the
US, except polio.

My uncle had polio as a small child. He had to go to a special hospital,
several hours from home. His family was poor and could only visit him once a
month. It was a Shriner's hospital (are there Shriners in Europe? They're a
Masonic group) and it was free. Now all the Shriner polio hospitals are burn
hospitals, and they still treat people for free. I always donate money to
the Shriners, because of that. Anyway, my uncle had to have a really awful
operation to shorten one of his legs, because the other one had been
shortened by polio. And today many people who had polio when they were young
are getting new muscle problems related to the disease.

Anyway, my mother remembers vividly not being allowed to swim in the
summers. Nobody knew how polio was transmitted, that was why it was so
scary. The odd thing is that now we know that pretty much everyone got
polio, but that something like 95% of people had no symptoms, and of those
who did have symptoms, only something like 5% had severe symptoms
(paralysis, etc.). There's a wonderful PBS program on the disease, I'm sure
it's still available.

I think some people still do live in iron lungs. Not many, but a couple are
left.

Gail Finke

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Extinct diseases
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> Speaking of malaria, didja know you can still get tonic with Quinine 
> (sp?) in it?

Yep. :) Read the labels. Schwepps used to make a lovely drink called
Bitter Lemon that also had quinine in it, but I don't know if it's
available anymore.

Quinine pills are easy to pack. Also, if you're the sort who gets leg and
foot cramps, try quinine. It's the active ingredient in all those pricey
leg cramp OTC meds. You may have to ask your pharmacist for quinine and
perhaps need a prescription, but it's cheap, and extremely effective.

Arlys


 (Hmm, actually I think someone on this list was just talking 
> about
> that...) A friend of mine who was very into British military history 
> told me
> that it was easier to get the medication into their gin and tonics 
> than to
> get the guys to remember to take it as a pill. Sounds like good 
> psychology
> to me. :-) Kinda like those cough syrup freezer pops they have for 
> kids
> now..



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Garb in cold/wet weather
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> Greetings!  Yes I agree wool is one of my favorite fibers to work with for
all garb except the underwear (where I use linen).  The correct weight of
wool on even a hot summer day is better than *any* synthetic!  No matter how
pretty the fabric design of the sythetic fabric, it does not even begin to
replace the comfort and breatheablility of the wool.

And a very thin wool will be cooler than almost any other fiber, because it
breathes so well, but also because I find that it absorbs the heat from the
sun and keeps it on the surface. You don't feel the heat on your skin quite
so much.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Salt: was OT: Extinct diseases
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The SCA's had warnings about use of salt tablets for years. the problem
was that people were overusing them, and getting sick as a result. Water,
sports drinks, and pickles are all highly recommended.

Arlys	

On Sun, 12 Sep 2004 06:35:19 -0500 "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net> writes:
> I remember hearing a year ago and more recently that salt tablets are 
> not
> being recommended anymore. Something about water retention and 
> problems with
> interfering with sweating which is necessary for cooling the body 
> down.
> It's late and my brain is mush.
> 
> De


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Extinct diseases; political threads
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In a message dated 9/12/2004 4:18:07 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
Katie@katiesorchids.com writes:
If we want to do so, then let's 
>discuss something like politics! ;-)  Anyone up for that?
>Sylrog, running for virtual cover
Lord, no! Are our memories so short? Our last go-round, we had to get the 
moderator to intervene. It got really ugly.

There are plenty of other venues for those sorts of comments, anyway.

Ann Wass
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On Sun, 12 Sep 2004, Katie Pleasance wrote:

> Bubonic and/or pneumonic plague is endemic in much of the mountainous
> regions in eastern California. It's carried by the ground squirrels...
> You don't hear about it because the health departments know about it
> and are speedy in dealing with any cases that show up. I think it
> might be considered "undesirable publicity" if it was better known how
> common it is in the local wildlife. I assume that at least one form of
> plague is endemic in most of the western US.

Well, not an issue of publicity. Locals -- particularly hunters -- know
about the threat, and should know how to avoid it. It's just not that big
a deal, because today plague is (1) curable with antibiotics, and (2)
really not that contagious. It is endemic in ground squirrels, prairie
dogs, and a variety of other rodent populations around the world, pretty
much everywhere except Western Europe. (Funny thing, that.)

Bubonic and pneumonic plague are the same disease. If the bacterium,
Yersinia pestis, infects you through the bloodstream (e.g. via a bite from
an infected rodent, or if you handle the tissues of an infected rodent and
have a cut on your skin, or if your pet cat feasts on an infected rodent
and then scratches you), you get bubonic plague. If Y. pestis infects you
through the air, you get the faster-killing pneumonic plague. This can
occur if someone reaches the late stages of the disease, where there's
enough bacteria in his lungs for it to be spread via airborne droplets
when he coughs. Otherwise, live Y. pestis isn't ordinarily airborne.

So, the first case in any outbreak is bubonic. Today, these cases are
treated long before the victim reaches the infectious-coughing stage. So,
no pneumonic cases. There's an occasional septicemic case (the
fastest-killing version, but also bloodborne). Those, I believe, account
for the extremely rare plague deaths in this country.

The real concern with plague today is its potential for use in
bioterrorism. If someone can figure out how to to spray a plague-infected
mist over a populated area, many people breathing it would get pneumonic
plague, which kills within a few days and is highly contagious because it
starts out in the lungs. My brother and sister-in-law, who are medical
microbiologists, have had a contract to do plague research in the last
couple of years because of this concern.

How do I know all this? Because my day job is as a medical editor. Since I
also have a specialty in medieval history, I seem to be the person who
gets called when someone needs an article done on the medical history of
plague. Nice when my two specialties intersect like that.

--Robin
who really truly was trying to resist contributing to an off-topic thread

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Extinct diseases and GFDs
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On Sun, 12 Sep 2004, Dianne & Greg Stucki wrote:

> But polio vaccines are still given to children. It's required to enter
> school, generally given as part of a "triple-threat"
> vaccine--diphtherica, polio, and pertussis ("whooping cough") combined
> into one vaccine, usually given as a series of three shots several
> months apart.

You're thinking of the diphtheria-pertussis-tetanus combo. Polio is given
separately, usually orally.

> And to make this costume related, I just found my copy of the McCalls
> pattern for the cotehardie (8725). It only goes up to a 14, which is
> the size I made up at least one baby ago and never quite finished. I
> tried it on, and with a few modifications, I think I can get a decent
> GFD out of it. I can't get to my Shire sewing nights, so I can't get
> anyone to do a true fitting for me. I used the pattern down to the
> waist, but I used four gores instead of the huge semi-circles the
> pattern used. I started the gores at the waist, and realize now I
> should have started them at the hips to get that beautiful fit. I have
> some mystery fabric in a subdued salmon-y color that should work
> nicely--cut the pattern just a bit larger, set the gores at the hips,
> and off I go!

Keep the gores at the waist! You'll find that the visual waist on the
dress will be higher than your natural waist, so they won't look too high.
The gores will allow for a gradual expansion that will give you a nice
sloping tummy and leave sufficient room for the hips. If you don't start
the gores till the hips, you won't have enough expansion quickly enough to
accommodate the increased width at the hips. In wear, the dress will slide
up in the area between your waist and hips, as it seeks a way to lie
comfortably on your body.

Start the back gore, if you have one, right at the small of the back.

--Robin

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Extinct diseases; political threads
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On Sun, 12 Sep 2004, Katie Pleasance wrote:

> I noticed that this list usually has an off-topic topic running at any
> particular time, in addition to the garb-related topics. So long as it
> doesn't get out of hand, people seem to find it enjoyable. If we had
> several such topics going at the same time, I think it would be a
> problem;  also, if it dominated the list in detriment to other topics,
> it would be a problem. I have a feeling that by tomorrow afternoon, it
> will have burned itself out. If it doesn't die on it's own, Bice will
> tell us to knock-it-off, but I don't think that will be necessary.

Is Bice even on this list? Unless there's been a change, I don't believe
she is a moderator.

The owner of this list is Elizabeth Lear, who does not post often but does
effectively use her position to settle down the extremely rare flame wars,
maybe once every year or two.

I don't mind the occasional off-topic conversations that occur as natural
"drift" from existing threads, but I would personally appreciate it if
people wouldn't *start* off-topic threads. I have just posted to the
"diseases" thread and now wish I hadn't; it's a topic I have some
knowledge of and so felt compelled to provide some factual information.
But it really doesn't belong here.

If anyone insists on starting a political thread here, I will sign off
till someone tells me it's over. I get enough of that on other lists, and
I would hate to see something that divisive introduced here, where we have
an international constituency. I am quite happy *not* knowing the
political leanings of my listmates.

--Robin


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I have a smallpox scar on my right shoulder from the vaccination.  And I remember in grade school being bussed to a clinic to receive the poli vaccination, no sugar cubes, shots for us.  Funny thing, one of my younger sister's smallpox vaccination did not "take".  Twice they gave it to her and no scab/scar ever appeared.  She had a natural immunity.  who elese knows that the smallpox vaccine was developed from something called cowpox?

Snow fallen on snow,
      and this evening, the full moon of November
Basho

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Katie Pleasance <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Extinct diseases; political threads
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My apologies, I am on several lists and she is one of the moderators of one 
of them and is usually the one who reins in the off-topic topics when they 
get out of hand.

Katie

>Is Bice even on this list? Unless there's been a change, I don't believe
>she is a moderator.


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A photo-heavy instructional for the straightfront method would be handy,
though, whoever winds up doing it.
http://www.cottesimple.com is a widely used resource already--I've seen it
posted all over the place--but it's incomplete!  (No offense meant to Tasha;
I'm sure she'd agree.) And with a new baby...

One of the things on my long to-do list is a site detailing the steps to a
side-front seamed mid & late 15thC fitted undergown; the first step to
developing a pattern is a fitted 4-panel to pinch into shape. It would be
wonderful if I could point to an already complete set of instructions for
both styles rather than duplicating the work.

-E

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Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] GFD fitting question
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: <kathysmassmail@verizon.net>
> So, do you ever plan to do a photo essay on your method 
> of fitting the straight front seam? It would be really helpful. :-)  

*cough*
I have a nice digital camera... =}

-E

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Chassidim
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On Sun, 12 Sep 2004, Kimiko Small wrote:

> At 08:57 AM 9/11/2004 -0400, you wrote:
> >While I'm pretending to be a dictionary, I will answer the question about
> >the word "Chassidic," which I didn't see answered.
> 
> Thanks for your answer. I had heard of Hassidic, but not Chassidic, and 
> didn't know they were the same or similar. And while I do have a few Jewish 
> friends, none of them are Orthodox.

And most Orthodox are *not* Hasidic! You can usually tell a Hasid on sight
from the clothing, but that's not true of most Orthodox Jews. I think many
people assume all Orthodox people are Hasids because that's what they're
used to seeing on TV pointed out as "Orthodox Jews."

--Robin

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] GFD fitting question
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A post script to what I just wrote:

> I do outline a general sequence and tips in writing on my website (in
> my collected posts, and my workshop handout), and apparently quite a
> number of people have successfully used that guidance to make these
> dresses. I think that's sufficient.

Please note that these are at http://www.netherton.net/robin

Several times now I've found that people are passing around a link to
http://www.barony-of-arnhold.org/gothicdress1.htm in the belief that it's
a tutorial or instructions on my method. (I know it's on quite a few links
lists this way.) This site was NOT intended to be a guide to making the
dress. This is a sequence of photos from a workshop I did once. The photos
don't represent the entire fitting sequence or any of the preparatory
steps. It's fun if you want to see some of the process in action, but it
makes sense only in the contact of my lecture and/or written materials. It
cannot stand on its own as instructions.

If you know anyone who has the arnhold site in their links lists, please
let them know they really should link to my own site first. (I caught this
on the GBACG site some time ago, and they fixed it there.)

--Robin


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] GFD fitting question
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On Sun, 12 Sep 2004 kathysmassmail@verizon.net wrote:

> So, do you ever plan to do a photo essay on your method of fitting the
> straight front seam? It would be really helpful. :-)  And maybe it
> would stop some of the "how do you do this?" questions.

I'm really disinclined to do this. For one thing, the steps involved can
vary quite a bit depending on the figure type and the specific problems
involved; if I "canonize" a particular sequence in print, then people will
tend to see that as a step one, step two, step three prescription. That's
very bad news; you have to do what the fabric and body tell you to do. And
that means watching and thinking about what's happening and making
decisions.

I do outline a general sequence and tips in writing on my website (in my
collected posts, and my workshop handout), and apparently quite a number
of people have successfully used that guidance to make these dresses. I
think that's sufficient.

Another thing is that I try not to suggest that my particular favored
sequence is the One True Way. I think there are some things we can feel
reasonably sure are accurate to period (e.g. a four-panel cut, set-in
sleeves, front lacings, certain fabrics, linings), and I describe these
things in my lecture. But there were other elements that probably varied
from one seamstress to another. I like that people can take the basics
and, within those parameters, work out a variation feels logical to their
own hands and brains. So, for instance, Tasha's method is just as
demonstrably "authentic" as mine could be, in most respects. (I have a few
quibbles with her approach, like not fitting over a chemise, but she knows
about these.)

> And speaking of Tasha, she just had Malcolm, a healthy baby boy. Hooray!

Oh good. He was overdue -- I bet they're all really happy now! (And my
younger son's middle name is Malcolm. Good choice ;-) )

--Robin

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> When she created that photo essay, Tasha was experienced with doing curved
> fronts, but had never tried a straight front before,

So, do you ever plan to do a photo essay on your method of fitting the straight front seam? It would be really helpful. :-)  And maybe it would stop some of the "how do you do this?" questions.

And speaking of Tasha, she just had Malcolm, a healthy baby boy. Hooray!
         --Kathy K.


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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What you all do with costumes
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> And I'll take this moment to add a tiny note about one of my 
> personal  'teeth grinders' -  The use of the word 'garb' in the SCA - 
> Although many will see it as a perfectly fine word - Its meaning, 
> especially in the SCA, is colored to mean something unreal, temporary, or 
> costume-like.  I prefer to use the word clothing for the pieces I 
> make.  Indeed,  my efforts are not shoddy, temporary, make-do or to be 
> confused with theatrical clothing.

I'll disagree with this.  I've been in the SCA on and off for the last
30 years.  In my experience the word "garb" is used because it is 
deliberately donething *NOT* "unreal, temporary or costume-like."
It is "garb" to distinguish it from "mundane clothes."  The word
"costume" is very carefully *discouraged* because its use implies
temporary or unreal.

Jerusha in Meridies
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:of bananas and other treats....
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 12:57:02 +1000
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<snip>
> But what about that banana (or skin) they just found this spring in a
> rubbish pit that was like Tudorish era??? <VBEG> I think expanding
> knowledge is fun <G>
<snip> Ta
> Carol

That's very tenuous documentation for eating modern commercially grown
bananas at an event, a lot of the new world foods were first brought to
England as botanical novelties not food, they weren't eaten, just put on
display in wealthy houses. Also IIRC the Bananas we eat now are the result
of lots of hybridising and don't bear a great deal of resemblance to the
original wild bananas.
Elizabeth
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
Elizabeth Beaumont              Elizabeth Walpole
             in                          OR                 in
Politarchopolis, Lochac        Canberra, Australia
             ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au

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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Busking, was Corset supply shop in London
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2004 12:12 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Busking, was Corset supply shop in London


> In Britain, "busking" is what street musicians do.
> Kate Bunting
> Library, University of Derby

And Australia BTW, though all forms of street performers are regularly
called 'buskers' even if their performances are not musical (e.g. people who
dress up as statues, juggling acts etc.) And people told me we spoke the
same language *g*
Elizabeth

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In a message dated 9/11/2004 10:03:30 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
robin@shell.nightowl.net writes:
Oh, I like that much better than "mundanes," the usual SCA term.
And a nicer ring than my usual phrase, "modern clothes" (as in, "I need
time to change into modern clothes during the lunch break").
One of my colleagues coined the term, "time drag," for our living history 
garb.

Ann Wass
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Extinct diseases
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I remember getting the smallpox vaccination. I watched them do
it...and it was different than a regular shot. Mine's in my right
hip--they took a needle, dipped it into a vial of something and then
pricked my skin in a filled-in, circular pattern, similar to tatooing.

My sister's is on her shoulder because she had a severe case of diaper
rash. So, we got ours in about 1958.

Sister Kenny did a form of physical therapy combined with heat, if I
remember correctly. Pretty much unheard of at the time.

kate


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Extinct diseases
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Katie Pleasance" <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, September 13, 2004 4:49 AM
Subject: [h-cost] OT: Extinct diseases and GFDs


> I have no children, therefore no grandchildren. I have little knowledge of
> current child-rearing practices, including such things as vaccinations.
I'm
> pleased to see that they are still required.
>
> Katie

Well as Polio is their next target they want to become extinct world-wide
not just in developed countries they need to keep the vaccinations up
everywhere, because (as somebody pointed out) it is not extinct world-wide
people need to continue receiving vaccinations or else it will be re
introduced from areas that are still affected.
Elizabeth
Obligatory Costume related comment, I've heard it stated that Elizabeth I
started wearing lead makeup & frizzy bright red wigs after her close
encounter with smallpox.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
Elizabeth Beaumont              Elizabeth Walpole
             in                         OR                 in
Politarchopolis, Lochac        Canberra, Australia
             ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Extinct diseases
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 09:47:54 +1000
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> On Saturday 11 September 2004 4:04 pm, Katie Pleasance wrote:
> [snip]
> > My little sister contracted polio in 1951 at age one year, two weeks.
Those
> > were the barbaric days when polio victims were basically written off to
> > die. As a child, I remember the iron-lungs, but they were not yet in
wide
> > use. Does anybody even remember seeing a *picture* of an iron lung? What
a
> > ghastly way to live, inside a machine that does your breathing for you
> > <ugh>.

I saw a news story recently about a man in his 70s who still has to sleep in
an iron lung, he caught Polio in his late teens and he's never spent a night
outside the hospital since. He recovered enough to do without the iron lung
while he was conscious but when he falls asleep he would suffocate without
it. It is very sad to see that sort of thing, and it still happens with
spinal cord injuries.
Elizabeth

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Extinct diseases and GFDs
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2004 6:17 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Extinct diseases and GFDs


>
> On Sun, 12 Sep 2004, Dianne & Greg Stucki wrote:
>
> > But polio vaccines are still given to children. It's required to enter
> > school, generally given as part of a "triple-threat"
> > vaccine--diphtherica, polio, and pertussis ("whooping cough") combined
> > into one vaccine, usually given as a series of three shots several
> > months apart.
>
> You're thinking of the diphtheria-pertussis-tetanus combo. Polio is given
> separately, usually orally.

You're right. Never try to think when surrounded by people under the age of
ten. ;-)
>
cut the pattern just a bit larger, set the gores at the hips,
> > and off I go!
>
> Keep the gores at the waist! You'll find that the visual waist on the
> dress will be higher than your natural waist, so they won't look too high.
> The gores will allow for a gradual expansion that will give you a nice
> sloping tummy and leave sufficient room for the hips. If you don't start
> the gores till the hips, you won't have enough expansion quickly enough to
> accommodate the increased width at the hips. In wear, the dress will slide
> up in the area between your waist and hips, as it seeks a way to lie
> comfortably on your body.
>
> Start the back gore, if you have one, right at the small of the back.

Actually, that was the one I was most concerned about--the others can stay
at the height they are at, but that one is just a bit too high. It needs to
be maybe an inch or two lower, and then it should hit right at the small of
my back.

Dianne
>
> --Robin
>
> _______________________________________________
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I think we should put that one on the list of Costuming Myths. While she
did start wearing wigs and heavy makeup later in life (1590's) it was
several decades after her bout of smallpox. As far as we can tell, she
was not noticeably disfigured by it. She probably started wearing the
disguising elements to cover up the signs of aging. On the other hand,
one of her close friends and ladies-in-waiting, Mary Sidney the Elder,
was disfigured by smallpox  after which she retired from court and wore a
veil in front of her face for the rest of her life. 


Karen


On Mon, 13 Sep 2004 09:41:43 +1000 "Elizabeth Walpole" 
> Obligatory Costume related comment, I've heard it stated that 
> Elizabeth I started wearing lead makeup & frizzy bright red wigs after
her 
> close encounter with smallpox.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Extinct diseases
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<snip>
> Bubonic and pneumonic plague are the same disease. If the bacterium,
> Yersinia pestis, infects you through the bloodstream (e.g. via a bite from
> an infected rodent, or if you handle the tissues of an infected rodent and
> have a cut on your skin, or if your pet cat feasts on an infected rodent
> and then scratches you), you get bubonic plague. If Y. pestis infects you
> through the air, you get the faster-killing pneumonic plague. This can
> occur if someone reaches the late stages of the disease, where there's
> enough bacteria in his lungs for it to be spread via airborne droplets
> when he coughs. Otherwise, live Y. pestis isn't ordinarily airborne.
<snip>
There's actually some (relatively) new research suggesting that maybe the
medieval black plague wasn't actually the bacteria Yersinia pestis, a group
of researchers are suggesting it might actually have been a virus. See
http://www.abc.net.au/science/k2/moments/s714968.htm for a bit more info.
Elizabeth
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Elizabeth Beaumont              Elizabeth Walpole
             in                         OR                 in
Politarchopolis, Lochac        Canberra, Australia
             ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au

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<snip> The odd thing is that now we know that pretty much everyone got
> polio, but that something like 95% of people had no symptoms, and of those
> who did have symptoms, only something like 5% had severe symptoms
> (paralysis, etc.). There's a wonderful PBS program on the disease, I'm
sure
> it's still available.
<snip>

I think I've seen that program (or a similar one) one of their points was
that the reason why Polio only became an epidemic in the 20th century is due
to better sanitation, sure it got rid of diseases like typhus but children
used to contract Polio very early in life when they were still being breast
fed and they were protected by their mother's immunities. When the streets
were cleaned up children missed it as babies/toddlers and when they were
older it hit them much harder.
Elizabeth

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE:  Court Garb in hot weather[ bit long]
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> >Note: perhaps, though it is not life threatening, people can say what
they
> >do for those wet/damp weekends as well as the brisk weekends.

As a lifelong Californian, I have no idea what you're talking about.  Rain
is something that happens between October and May.  Water falling from the
sky in the summertime is just...WRONG.

Margo


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Extinct diseases
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 17:58:42 -0700
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As a child, I remember the iron-lungs, but they were not yet in wide
> use. Does anybody even remember seeing a *picture* of an iron lung? What a
> ghastly way to live, inside a machine that does your breathing for you
<ugh>.

My great grandfather was the metalworker who made the first prototype iron
lung.  The hope was that they would be a temporary solution, until a cure
was found.  Sadly, that wasn't the case for most people.  I wonder how long
the victims actually tended to live that way.

Margo



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Subject: [h-cost] Jane Austin movies
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I just picked up the BBC versions of Jane Austin's "Sense and Sensibility", 
"Pride and Prejudice", "Persuasion", and "Mansfield Park" at Costco for 
about US$10 each.

Luscious dresses in a style that I love, but oh! the tedious, unending 
quest to marry "well" is getting tiring. That seems to be the only topic in 
the movies - how to marry the richest man possible.

Katie, who's very first real sewing project was an Empire gown from 
scratch, including designing the pattern. I still have the pattern in my 
files, I think, though it would be much too small for me as it was done 
when I was young and skinny.

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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 18:34:42 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Katie Pleasance <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
Subject: [h-cost] RE:  Court Garb in hot weather
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We just bought acreage in the Puget Sound islands near Seattle and one of 
my first questions was - "Does it really rain in the summer?". Apparently 
it does, on occasion. I grew up and still live in California and think 
nothing of leaving things outside that could be destroyed by rain -- in the 
dry months. We haven't had the first rain of the season yet, but we're 
getting ready to put a tarp over the firewood and do other preparations for 
the rainy season. Here on the Pacific Coast we have two seasons - dry and 
warm, and (sometimes) wet and cool. Rarely hot and rarely cold and the rain 
is strictly seasonal. For the most part our garb needs to be designed for 
neither extreme heat nor extreme cold.

Katie


>As a lifelong Californian, I have no idea what you're talking about.  Rain
>is something that happens between October and May.  Water falling from the
>sky in the summertime is just...WRONG.
>Margo


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Subject: [h-cost] Elizabeth I and smallpox
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Status: RO

I think Alison Weir's biography of Elizabeth mentioned that she wore a
mixture of alum and egg white from a fairly young age to hide her
unfashionably dark complexion. Still, by the 1590s, weren't wigs and
white makeup fashionable anyway, whether the wearer was aging or not?

Allison T.

Message: 11
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 17:27:32 -0500
From: seamstrix@juno.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Extinct diseases
To: h-costume@indra.com
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I think we should put that one on the list of Costuming Myths. While she
did start wearing wigs and heavy makeup later in life (1590's) it was
several decades after her bout of smallpox. As far as we can tell, she
was not noticeably disfigured by it. She probably started wearing the
disguising elements to cover up the signs of aging. On the other hand,
one of her close friends and ladies-in-waiting, Mary Sidney the Elder,
was disfigured by smallpox  after which she retired from court and wore a
veil in front of her face for the rest of her life.

Karen

On Mon, 13 Sep 2004 09:41:43 +1000 "Elizabeth Walpole"
> Obligatory Costume related comment, I've heard it stated that
> Elizabeth I started wearing lead makeup & frizzy bright red wigs after
her
> close encounter with smallpox.
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Katie Pleasance <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Extinct diseases
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My question is how long they remained sane living like that. I think it 
would drive me bonkers.

Katie


>My great grandfather was the metalworker who made the first prototype iron
>lung.  The hope was that they would be a temporary solution, until a cure
>was found.  Sadly, that wasn't the case for most people.  I wonder how long
>the victims actually tended to live that way.
>
>Margo


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>dres with pleated ruches and small bouques of flowers spread along the
>ruches. Originally made with chenille threads.

Try also books on Victorian needlework.  Making things like flowers out of 
chenille is very Victorian.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Extinct diseases; political threads
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>Regarding politics - political threads too often turn into flame wars.

Thank you.  No response required.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
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          www.FunStuft.com

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>> >Note: perhaps, though it is not life threatening, people can say what
> they
>> >do for those wet/damp weekends as well as the brisk weekends.
>
> As a lifelong Californian, I have no idea what you're talking about.  Rain
> is something that happens between October and May.  Water falling from the
> sky in the summertime is just...WRONG.   > Margo

Right now, I think Florida would also agree with you.
Those of us on the East Coast, who experience torrential storms or the 
hurricanes that move up the coast from early August on,  usually don't even 
notice it unless it knocks down our house.
This was one of the few years that I didn't spend at least part of Pennsic 
holding the tent down during a horrendous storm.  We did have a bad storm at 
the end, but it was more the effect of the sea tide rolling in - the wall of 
water came down, but without the winds, so none of us had to do anything 
more than see if the lake was up to our doorstep yet.
My clothes stayed dry (my tent did too), or at least the linen and wool kept 
me comfortable, but I have to admit I was thinking of getting those 
calf-high plastic boots that gardeners and farmers wear!     Rowena 


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I have just the answer for you I think!  Have you read the series on 
Elizabethan embroidery by Sheila Marshall?  You can see them here.  She 
shows how to do these flowers in one of these books.  If you'd like me 
to check which one, I can...I have them.

ttp://www.jdr-be.com/elizabethaseriesgallery.htm 

This is not necessarily the place to buy them from, but just a place to 
see them.

Sg


Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

>Hi,
>Talking about other and better things than extinct deseases.
>While working on the courtdress i have only had my mind thinking about the
>next projekt i am starting soon. The original dress is in the huge costume
>book from Kyoto, not Revolution, but the other one. It is a large pannier
>dres with pleated ruches and small bouques of flowers spread along the
>ruches. Originally made with chenille threads.
>I have ordered a large skein of undyed silk chenille, and i want to dye it
>in some colours that will suit the pale yellow silk taffeta. Then i have
>ordered some embroidery books about stumpwork so that i can get some ideas
>to make 3-dimensional flowers of the chenille.
>I was thinking about making the flowerleaves by outlining with millinery
>wire and then weave the chenille back and forth, but for the flowers i am
>not sure!
>Long live Amazon.com next week i will have the books!
>
>
>Bjarne
>
>
>
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>  
>
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From: Susan Farmer <sfarmer@sabre.goldsword.com>
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Extinct diseases
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Not only do I remember Polio and Smallpox, I also have a small-pox vaccination
scar.  I remember the first oral polio vaccines.

Susan, 51 this past July
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Garb, costume et al 
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At 06:24 PM 9/11/2004 +0100, you wrote:
>OK, I'm beginning to lect    ure,soI'llstophere.
>But you did ask.
>Julian,
>in "olde" Jersey.


Yes, I did ask, and I appreciate your reply. Thanks so much for sharing. I 
like learning new things like this.

Kimiko


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*snippage*

>
> Obligatory costume content - I wonder what they did to the clothes of
> people who died of such infectious diseases? I'm guessing they were
> burnt, but in times places when clothes were extremely valuable, was
> this done often?

Ever read The Velveteen Rabbit?  The child had scarlet fever and
*everything* was burned.  Even if your clothes were valuable, it wasn't
worth the risk of catching the disease.  Valuable Clothes mean nothing
to a dead person.

Susan
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabeth I and smallpox-makeup
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According to several biographies I have read, she did loose most of her 
hair because of smallpox.  But wearing wigs were all the rage anyway 
from what I understand.   As to her makeup, I have always wondered about 
the exagerated white makeup and red cupid  lip thing...I haven't seen an 
Elizabethan portrait of anyone which appears that way.  Did anyone see 
the recent movie about Charles I ?  His mistress worn this style when he 
asked her to leave....I've never seen it in Jacobean porttraits either.  
Has anyone else??

Sg

A. Thurman wrote:

>I think Alison Weir's biography of Elizabeth mentioned that she wore a
>mixture of alum and egg white from a fairly young age to hide her
>unfashionably dark complexion. Still, by the 1590s, weren't wigs and
>white makeup fashionable anyway, whether the wearer was aging or not?
>
>Allison T.
>
>  
>
>  
>
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I recently read a book about polio (A Summer Plaque).  And gleamed this
info - Most Polio patients were not in the iron lung for long (well it could
be months, but not years). Those who didn't recover enough to breathe on
their own did stay in the iron lung for while, but new technology was
developed that allowed them to be mobile and live relatively normal lives.
If they got a respiratory disease, there was a chance they would need to
return to the iron lung until they were better.

Yes, this book has a chapter plus on Sister Kerry, the first I had heard of
her - but interesting reading.

Susan in WA


> My question is how long they remained sane living like that. I think it
> would drive me bonkers.
>
> Katie
>
>
> >My great grandfather was the metalworker who made the first prototype
iron
> >lung.  The hope was that they would be a temporary solution, until a cure
> >was found.  Sadly, that wasn't the case for most people.  I wonder how
long
> >the victims actually tended to live that way.
> >
> >Margo
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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At 08:57 AM 9/11/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>While I'm pretending to be a dictionary, I will answer the question about
>the word "Chassidic," which I didn't see answered.


Thanks for your answer. I had heard of Hassidic, but not Chassidic, and 
didn't know they were the same or similar. And while I do have a few Jewish 
friends, none of them are Orthodox.

Kimiko


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At 06:24 PM 9/11/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>Re: smallpox vaccination - my husband has the characteristic
>vaccination scar, as he was born in Bogota Columbia in 1970,
>when/where vaccinations were still offered.


I also have a small scar, but I didn't know until now what it was from. I 
was born in '66. I remember getting a shot when I was six before I could go 
to Japan with my mother and that was when I got the scar. I had other 
immunizations, and the only disease I had as a kid was German Measles.

Thanks all for sharing the info on these diseases.

Kimiko


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At 01:04 PM 9/11/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>Does anybody even remember seeing a *picture* of an iron lung? What a 
>ghastly way to live, inside a machine that does your breathing for you <ugh>.


Yes, I remember the iron lung as a picture in a school health class.

But I do not know Sister Kenny. Who was she and what did she do as a 
treatment that helped your sister?

<<Now, getting back on topic a bit. I wonder how many people have died 
because of heat exhaustion because of being told that salt is bad for us? I 
have a couple of bottles of salt tablets for the really hot days when I 
work in the garden in defiance of the heat.>>

I take salt during hot days at ren faire. I also enjoy salty foods as well 
(dill pickles, pretzels, olives, etc.)  to help keep the body's water 
levels going. Not sure what all it does to me, but it really helps keep me 
going.

Kimiko


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>My question is how long they remained sane living like that. I think it 
>would drive me bonkers.

My housemate, who still does Ren. Faires in costume, is a quadriplegic in a 
motorized wheelchair.  He sometimes gets all down about how useless he 
imagines he is, and wonders why he's still alive.  At other times he's a 
rolling resource full of information about accessibility issues and many 
other useful things to know, and would do well in an advocate position (if 
anyone's budget could still afford people like him).  I put him on a panel 
I was doing at a local Science Fiction convention last weekend, which was a 
discussion of costuming for people with non-standard bodies and special 
costuming needs.

He gets down occasionally, but otherwise has a full life, has more friends 
than I have, goes places, etc.  Anyone who attends the Gaskell dances in 
Oakland, CA, will have seen him in costume in his chair - which can allow 
him to stand up if he likes.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
             ////-@@\\\
            ((((   7 )))
             (((  <> ))))
                )   ((((((
           /----\   /---\))

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>
>>  Except with a Z ...."air zats"  :)
>
Sg

>
> Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> I think this word, in the original German, means 'substitute', like 
> the 'ersatz coffee' in WWII, which was Postum or some other non-coffee 
> drink.  It's pronounced "Air sats".
>
>        CarolynKayta Barrows
> dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
>          www.FunStuft.com
>
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Some years ago, I attended an SCA event an hour or two's drive from
Melbourne on a New Year's Day. Most of the day it was over 100 degrees F
which made the flomping and whomping of gowns interesting to watch.

Ever sat in court among gum trees at a campsite in the Australian bush in
that kind of heat? Not to be recommended!

By around 3:00pm, a few of us abondoned the event in favour of the beach
which was ten minutes away.

Ever gone to the crowded beach dressed as a monk, a courtesan, a Romanesque
warrior or a servant girl? Very much to be recommended.

We returned to the event for the banquet just in time for a freak unseasonal
thunderstorm that took out the electricity for miles around. I realised then
that the only dinner event that could survive a power blackout was a
re-enactor's event.

Remind me to tell you about the time I set up a mobile disco dressed as
a - - -

-C.

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] fwd: Samurai Costume Search, day 6... (fwd)
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 01:44:18 -0500
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If you are looking for premade, you can get by with an Aikido ge/uniform.
AWMA, Asian World of Martial arts sells the Hakima and the top. They have a
website. You might want to check with Century (martial Arts not the
realtors) Otherwise costume connections has a Japanese pattern for men.

De

-----Original Message-----
Any one?

--
Slan go foill
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri
Emer's Needle Wares


-------------- Forwarded Message: --------------
Hi, I'm looking for a Samurai outfit for my friends. They run a sketch
comedy tv show here in the seattle area, and one of the bits for the
upcoming episode (a clever kurosawa-parody) requires a convincing Samurai
outfit and Ninja outfit.

The ninja is pretty easy to take care of, but I'm having a tough time
finding anything samurai-ey. Someone (from Craigslist) recommended your
group, I'm not sure what it is you do, but I'm kinda shotgunning this
request to see if I can find anyone who knows someone who knows someone...
and so on.

So, if you know someone or are someone who owns/knows where to get a samurai
outfit, please shoot me an email at Rabidium@hotmail.com or call me at
206-Mud-Hatt (no joke) and fill me in. Tragically the show has no budget, so
I can't pay, but you will get a credit, and the satisfaction of doing
something good for some funny guys. If you require other compensation that
isn't cash, maybe one of us can help you do something.
Thanks in advance for your help!
-Olaf





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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Katie Pleasance <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Extinct diseases
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But what about the days before "germ theory"? In those days disease was 
considered "a punishment from God" as much as anything else. Would they 
have conceived that a sick person's clothes could carry disease? Do you 
think that QEI burned all her clothes after recovering from smallpox? I 
doubt it. She had gained immunity through surviving the disease but she 
would not have known it; and any future lady-in-waiting that came into 
contact with the clothes would be at risk, no?

Katie

I wonder what they did to the clothes of
> > people who died of such infectious diseases? I'm guessing they were
> > burnt, but in times places when clothes were extremely valuable, was
> > this done often?
>
>Ever read The Velveteen Rabbit?  The child had scarlet fever and
>*everything* was burned.  Even if your clothes were valuable, it wasn't
>worth the risk of catching the disease.  Valuable Clothes mean nothing
>to a dead person.
>Susan


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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 19:18:26 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ersatz
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Then you would know why Käthe became Kayta - I got called Kathy too often.

>>>  Except with a Z ...."air zats"  :)

>>It's pronounced "Air sats".

Obligatory costume content:  I started out in the SCA in 1971 as Käthe.  I 
wore a German costume from an Albrecht Durer woodcut, and invented that 
which gets called the "origami hat", reverse engineered from a Durer 
woodcut or two.  In about 1990 I got divorced and kept the name as Kayta, 
since most of the world only knew me as that, not as Carolyn.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
             ////-@@\\\
            ((((   7 )))
             (((  <> ))))
                )   ((((((
           /----\   /---\))


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Oh!  I'm up for a great story...
[settling down on a nice comfortable chair, expectantly waiting....]
--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 
Emer's Needle Wares


-------------- Original message -------------- 

> Some years ago, I attended an SCA event an hour or two's drive from 
> Melbourne on a New Year's Day. Most of the day it was over 100 degrees F 
> which made the flomping and whomping of gowns interesting to watch. 
> 
> Ever sat in court among gum trees at a campsite in the Australian bush in 
> that kind of heat? Not to be recommended! 
> 
> By around 3:00pm, a few of us abondoned the event in favour of the beach 
> which was ten minutes away. 
> 
> Ever gone to the crowded beach dressed as a monk, a courtesan, a Romanesque 
> warrior or a servant girl? Very much to be recommended. 
> 
> Remind me to tell you about the time I set up a mobile disco dressed as 
> a - - - 
> 
> -C. 
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 22:53:32 -0400 (EDT)
From: Susan Farmer <sfarmer@sabre.goldsword.com>
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> >How many of the members don't know anything about polio or smallpox? When 
> >Ruthanne and I were growing up, these were *serious* (and deadly) 
> >concerns. These days, they exist only in laboratories.
>
> Problem is, every time they think some disease is extinct, they find out it 
> isn't.  People still get polio, whooping cough, scarlet fever, rheumatic 
> fever, and all those other diseases the rest of us think are extinct.

this is true.  but the only documentated cases of smallpox in the last
30 years were *directly* attributed to sloppiness in the lab.  In the
"wild" (aka the human population), smallpox has been indeed eradicated.

Susan
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From: Susan Farmer <sfarmer@sabre.goldsword.com>
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Extinct diseases
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> >I'm going to agree with that statement even though I titled the thread 
> >"extinct diseases". I read recently that a few cases of polio have shown 
> >up in eastern Africa, much to the surprise of the medical establishment.
>
> Extinction is forever, so we get complacent about diseases labeled as 
> extinct.  Bubonic plague is still around too, and I heard a rumor that 
> Albuquerque, New Mexico, sees one or two cases of it every year.
>
> I was unaware that polio victims were quarantined.  Was this done 
> everywhere?  A guy I used to date, born in Hawaii, had polio, and never 
> mentioned quarantining (tho he did have lots of hospital stories).

ONe of my Botany professors was quarantined in an Iron Lung when he was
5 or 6.  He was in a room alone.  There was a mirror above him that allowed
him to see whoever was standing at the window outside his door.
He still has the psychological scars from the episode.  :-(

Susan
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From: "Megan M." <megan@benchite.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT: Extinct diseases
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I can tell you that they were quarantined in Pittsburgh as well.  My mother
told me stories of quarantine, including how lucky I was that when I got
scarlet fever I did not have to get quarantined like she did when she had
it. BTW, I'm only 41, but do not appear to have a smallpox scar.
-Megan

-----Original Message-----
We lived in Cheyenne, Wyoming at the time. In that location, at that time, 
polio cases were quarantined. I don't about elsewhere / elsewhen.

Katie



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From: Susan Farmer <sfarmer@sabre.goldsword.com>
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Extinct diseases
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>
> But what about the days before "germ theory"? In those days disease was 
> considered "a punishment from God" as much as anything else. Would they 
> have conceived that a sick person's clothes could carry disease? Do you 
> think that QEI burned all her clothes after recovering from smallpox? I 
> doubt it. She had gained immunity through surviving the disease but she 
> would not have known it; and any future lady-in-waiting that came into 
> contact with the clothes would be at risk, no?

We're also talking about a spam of some 400-500 years here.  In Elizabeth's
day they probably wouldn't because of their beliefs about disease and how
it was or wasn't transmitted.  After the transmission of disease by 
invisible things called germs -- that's a different matter entirely.
Contagions were understood -- but not necessarily what viruses were or
that some "disease causing agents" didn't survive well outside the body.
Rather than risk infection by "an invisible microbe" anything that might
be contaminated was burned.

Susan

> I wonder what they did to the clothes of
> > > people who died of such infectious diseases? I'm guessing they were
> > > burnt, but in times places when clothes were extremely valuable, was
> > > this done often?
> >
> >Ever read The Velveteen Rabbit?  The child had scarlet fever and
> >*everything* was burned.  Even if your clothes were valuable, it wasn't
> >worth the risk of catching the disease.  Valuable Clothes mean nothing
> >to a dead person.
> >Susan
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Extinct diseases
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I am 42 and I don't seem to have a smallpox scar either. I do have a very
small,  light brown mark on my arm about where a traditional smallpox
scar would be. I don't know if that's all the scar that happened (I'm
pretty sure I was fully vaccinated, by mom was quite conscientious) or if
perhaps I'm one of those mysterious 'already immune' people. Ah, the
mysteries of life......

On a costume related note, it makes it very easy for me to wear shoulder
revealing period dresses as there's no nasty scar to worry about. 



Karen



On Sun, 12 Sep 2004 22:43:03 -0400 "Megan M." <megan@benchite.com>
writes:
> I can tell you that they were quarantined in Pittsburgh as well.  My 
> mother told me stories of quarantine, including how lucky I was that
when > I  got scarlet fever I did not have to get quarantined like she
did when 
> she had it. BTW, I'm only 41, but do not appear to have a smallpox
scar.
> -Megan

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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE:  Court Garb in hot weather[ bit long]
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 21:16:52 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I used to think so too until I moved from California to Colorado 14 
years ago.   I absolutely LOVE our summer rains here.  Now I think rain 
belongs in the summer since snow obviously belongs in the winter. ;-)

Sylrog

On Sep 12, 2004, at 6:54 PM, <lists@margospatterns.com> wrote:
>
> As a lifelong Californian, I have no idea what you're talking about.  
> Rain
> is something that happens between October and May.  Water falling from 
> the
> sky in the summertime is just...WRONG.
>
> Margo
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
Subject: chenille flowers  Re: [h-cost] raised/stumpwork flowers.
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Have you ever investigated the book The Artful Ribbon,
by Candace Kling?
I'm not sure that it would help with your chenille
flowers, but I suspect you could take some of her
techniques & run with them.  

Ann in CT
 
> > small bouquets of flowers spread along the
> >ruches. Originally made with chenille threads.
> >
> >Bjarne



		
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re:of bananas and other treats....
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 22:49:08 -0500
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Actually, some of those veggies were brought over with the possibility of
becoming food. The potato probably would have become a staple had the sender
thought to include in the instructions that you eat the root and not the
plant.
Elsewhere, Spain and Italy were eating new world food, maybe not as a main
staple.

De
-----Original Message-----
<snip>
> But what about that banana (or skin) they just found this spring in a
> rubbish pit that was like Tudorish era??? <VBEG> I think expanding
> knowledge is fun <G>
<snip> Ta
> Carol

That's very tenuous documentation for eating modern commercially grown
bananas at an event, a lot of the new world foods were first brought to
England as botanical novelties not food, they weren't eaten, just put on
display in wealthy houses. Also IIRC the Bananas we eat now are the result
of lots of hybridising and don't bear a great deal of resemblance to the
original wild bananas.
Elizabeth
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
Elizabeth Beaumont              Elizabeth Walpole
             in                          OR                 in
Politarchopolis, Lochac        Canberra, Australia
             ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au


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To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 20:46:41 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Extinct diseases
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Noted medieval historian Norman Cantor (book: In the Wake of the Plague)
uses some of that research and suggests that at least one of the three
strains of Plague, that being the respiratory, may have actually been a
form of anthrax.

Arlys


> There's actually some (relatively) new research suggesting that 
> maybe the
> medieval black plague wasn't actually the bacteria Yersinia pestis, 
> a group
> of researchers are suggesting it might actually have been a virus. 
> See
> http://www.abc.net.au/science/k2/moments/s714968.htm for a bit more 
> info.
> Elizabeth
>
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
> ----
> Elizabeth Beaumont              Elizabeth Walpole
>              in                         OR                 in
> Politarchopolis, Lochac        Canberra, Australia
>              ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au
> 
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Ron Carnegie" <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: burning of costume (was extinct disease)
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> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Katie Pleasance
> Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2004 9:16 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Extinct diseases
>
>
> But what about the days before "germ theory"? In those days disease was
> considered "a punishment from God" as much as anything else. Would they
> have conceived that a sick person's clothes could carry disease? Do you
> think that QEI burned all her clothes after recovering from smallpox? I
> doubt it. She had gained immunity through surviving the disease but she
> would not have known it; and any future lady-in-waiting that came into
> contact with the clothes would be at risk, no?
>
> Katie
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

  	Actually there is reference to burning  clothing and blankets to stop
disease before the discovery of Germ theory.  I am not familiar with the
more famous plague epidemics of the medieval period, but such burning did
happen in the plague of 17th century London. I would be very surprised if
the more Medieval inspired members of this list do not have some foresight
on this matter.

   	I just looked for the reference, and currently can not find it, but
there are references to the blankets of small pox victims being left for
enemy Indians during the French and Indian war (Seven Years War for you
Europeans).  An early form of Germ Warfare.  The reference I am referring to
but can not currently find in my notes is a primary source order from a
British Officer to his men.

   	People can learn a lot by observation.  One of my favorite examples of
this would be Jamestown just a few miles from my home.  Jamestown was
founded in a swamp.  The residents of the city suffered greatly from disease
and knew full well that life in a swamp was unhealthful.  They misunderstood
the reasons, giving the "miasmas" caused by bad air rather than germs
carried by swamp borne insects, but they could clearly see the health
effects.

   On the subject of small pox, some one mentioned earlier on this list 18th
century "experiments" regarding small pox inoculations.  By the third
quarter of the 18th century these are not exactly experimental anymore
though they do still cause
a good deal of controversy.  This had far more to do with the possibility of
inoculation causing its own outbreak than anything else.

   I have been struggling to find a way to return this to topic, but can
think of none but the very lame (references to the mask in Restoration for
instance).

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie

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I had a smallpox inoculation (left upper arm) when there was a scare in
about 1962. We all learned at school about Edward Jenner, who noticed in
the late 18th century that milkmaids who had caught the mild disease
cowpox were immune to smallpox, so he starrted giviong it to people
delibgerately.
Also in the early 60s, I was inoculated against polio by a series of
injections. When I was part way through the course I went down with a
mysterious feverish illness on a family holiday in South Wales.
Apparently the local doctor kept asking if I could move my legs, so my
mother believes that he suspected polio. She thinks maybe it was, but I
was protected from any ill-effects by the jabs I'd already had.
My aunt, a physiotherapist, had polio victims among her child patients
in the same era.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby
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Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> athurman@gmail.com 13/09/2004 02:34:47 >>>  wrote:

>I think Alison Weir's biography of Elizabeth mentioned that she wore
a
>mixture of alum and egg white from a fairly young age to hide her
>unfashionably dark complexion. 

Dark complexion? Wasn't she a redhead?


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From: Lena Strid <lstrid@mglarc.com>
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Subject: Viking brooches WAS: [h-cost] current and future work?
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I wrote:
>> - Make a 10th century Hedeby/Křstrup apron dress so I would more blend in
>> with the Hiberno-Norse group I sometimes play with. (hmmm, need to get
>> tortoise shell brooches as well...)

Cathy replied:
> If you need ideas where to look for tortoise brooches, I have a list of 
favorite sites you may find useful...

Yes, please... I'm aiming for a southern Scandinavian look, and most
merchants (IIRC) seem to favour the Norwegian brooches. There's got to be
someone out there that makes replicas of Danish/south Swedish tortoise shell
brooches - I hope.

/Lena


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From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
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> >http://www.clothdollconnection.com
> >
> >Thanks!  By he look of the prices on the dolls that are most  similar
to 
> >mine, my "outdated" prices are still in the right ballpark.
> 
> Hope you saw my dolls there when you looked, tho I don't have 
> any prices posted.

I did, but they are a very different creature from my own (more
"traditional") dolls so I only had a quick look at them in passing.  I
particualrly like the three in the initial pictures on your site.

Teddy
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From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] What you all do with costumes
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> ...am wondering what all of you out there do with the 
> costumes you make.  I guess I'm both curious about the composition of 
> this group as well as wondering what other possibilities for 
> money-making with costumes there are.  If not involved in the SCA or 
> with Renn Faires, what do you do?

I'm in an English group that split off from the SCA over 25 years ago.
I currently play the King.  I'm in my second (three year)
"term-of-office" and have a couple more years to go before the next
election where I find out (if I stand again) whether I get in for
another (final) three years, or whether someone else gets to be Monarch.

> Are you in reenactment groups 

Yep, one 15th century, one late 14th centurey, used to be in a 17th
century one too.

> or  role-playing groups?

Yep.

> When I first got started in theatre decades ago, that was 
> about the only venue available for costumers.  Now the costuming world

> has expanded so much.

I got into historical costuming through making wearing and presenting
costumes at Science Fiction convenions (I was always more interested in
the "fantasy" side of things and lots of those sort of books have a
pseudo medieval setting....
 
Teddy
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Wet damp weather garb (WAS: Court Garb in hot weather)
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> Note: perhaps, though it is not life threatening, people can 
> say what they do for those wet/damp weekends as well as the 
> brisk weekends.

Most of my kit is washable so getting it wet/damp isn't a problem from
the maintence point of view (I'm in damp ol' England after all - mud is
part of re-enactment life here)

If it's just damp, I weather it and dry out, if it's an absolute
downpour I shelter where I can and venture out if I have to (that's what
cloaks and surcoats are for after all)  Scotchguard on hems and  outer
garments helps if your wool cloak isn't as waterproof as you'd like.

Unfortunately, the British public are used to rain so still turn up at
events and expect to be entertained.  I have actually seen fighters stop
to empty the water out of their armour beofre carrying on with their
display.

Teddy
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Subject: [h-cost] Diamond weave wool (with picture)
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OK, for those of you that asked, I've found the sample and the details.

It wasn't as inexpensive as I thought (I was mistakenly going by theprices of other fabrics from this supplier).. but the details are as follows;

8 shed diamond twill.  Herdwick warp, Swaledale weft (ancient breed fleece) Ł20 (that's UK pounds) per metre, 1.5metres wide.

The patten is onvious in grey and white (grey fibres one direction, white the other) which he had it woven in so it could be overdyed any colour.

the diamonds are about three quarters of an inch across (point to point) and about an inch high.

The suplier is:

Dave Rushworth
"Petty Chapman"
Wool and Linen Fabric
92 Norman Road
Birkby, Huddersfield, HD2 2UD
Tel: 01484 480867 

And I just found a photo of him with a piece of the diamond weave wool!!!!!

http://www.reenactorsmarket.co.uk/gallery/rushworth.jpg

Sorry - i thought I had an email addy for him, but I can't find it and I think he said he's more likely to get aorund to enquiries made by post or phone.

Hope this helps

Teddy

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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 08:31:06 -0400
From: "A. Thurman" <athurman@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Extinct Diseases
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I would think that they would have noticed that anyone coming in
contact with infected clothes also got sick, just through observation.
Maybe less of a historic costume than a historic medicine question -
did people in earlier centuries figure this out, before the discovery
of germs?

Allison T.

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 19:15:48 -0700
From: Katie Pleasance <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Extinct diseases
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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But what about the days before "germ theory"? In those days disease was
considered "a punishment from God" as much as anything else. Would they
have conceived that a sick person's clothes could carry disease? Do you
think that QEI burned all her clothes after recovering from smallpox? I
doubt it. She had gained immunity through surviving the disease but she
would not have known it; and any future lady-in-waiting that came into
contact with the clothes would be at risk, no?

Katie

I wonder what they did to the clothes of
> > people who died of such infectious diseases? I'm guessing they were
> > burnt, but in times places when clothes were extremely valuable, was
> > this done often?
>
>Ever read The Velveteen Rabbit?  The child had scarlet fever and
>*everything* was burned.  Even if your clothes were valuable, it wasn't
>worth the risk of catching the disease.  Valuable Clothes mean nothing
>to a dead person.
>Susan
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extinct Diseases
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On Mon, 13 Sep 2004, A. Thurman wrote:

> I would think that they would have noticed that anyone coming in
> contact with infected clothes also got sick, just through observation.
> Maybe less of a historic costume than a historic medicine question -
> did people in earlier centuries figure this out, before the discovery
> of germs?

Yes. Quarantines were common in the time of the Death (1340s) and later
visits of the plague.

Petrarch, I think it was, in his plague memoirs, talked about how the
disease was so virulent it could pass without direct contact. He wrote of
dogs sniffing a dead man's clothing and then dying. Plague as we know it
doesn't kill dogs, but the point is that people associated the transfer of
the disease with clothing. (And of course the illness at any particular
spot might have been something other than plague itself -- as someone
noted, there are a number of theories running around these days, and very
possibly there was a combination of diseases concurrently that all
appeared to be one "plague.")

Although they understood the idea of contagion through direct contact,
through contact with objects, and through "tainted air," they didn't
necessarily know which means of transmission was in play for a given
disease, and they probably didn't know about incubation periods during
which a symptomless person could be contagious. Despite best efforts with
quarantine, plague spread from one house to another, and one town to
another -- probably via the rats that ran freely from one place to the
next.

--Robin
who at least mentioned clothes this time

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Extinct diseases
References: <4.3.1.2.20040912102606.026abd08@mail.frys.com>	<5.2.0.9.0.20040911124657.00baabd0@mail.katiesorchids.com>	<BD68B950.6961%ruthanneb@mindspring.com>	<7FBB02B3-0361-11D9-82D2-000A95C59FB2@ntw.net>
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Plague is far from extinct, since it hangs out pretty good in some wild 
animal populations (especially prairie dogs, IIRC).  Where we human 
animals might get complacent about it, though, is that it's largely 
treatable with the right antibiotics.
My favorite historical novel that deals with this sort of topic is "The 
Doomsday Book," by Cynthia? Willis.
--sue, who was born in 1960, has the smallpox vacc. scar (upper arm), 
and had a friend in college who'd had polio (only person I ever knew who 
did)....She contracted when she was less than 2 weeks old, before she 
ever had a chance at the shots, and had one arm that was a bit smaller 
than the other, and which had less range of motion/functionality

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

> 
>> I'm going to agree with that statement even though I titled the thread 
>> "extinct diseases". I read recently that a few cases of polio have 
>> shown up in eastern Africa, much to the surprise of the medical 
>> establishment.
> 
> 
> Extinction is forever, so we get complacent about diseases labeled as 
> extinct.  Bubonic plague is still around too, and I heard a rumor that 
> Albuquerque, New Mexico, sees one or two cases of it every year.


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: bananas as costume....
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At 7:17 PM -0600 9/12/04, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>  > But what about that banana (or skin) they just found this spring in a
>>  rubbish pit that was like Tudorish era??? <VBEG> I think expanding
>>  knowledge is fun <G>
><snip> Ta
>>  Carol
>
>That's very tenuous documentation for eating modern commercially grown
>bananas at an event, a lot of the new world foods were first brought to
>England as botanical novelties not food, they weren't eaten, just put on
>display in wealthy houses. Also IIRC the Bananas we eat now are the result
>of lots of hybridising and don't bear a great deal of resemblance to the
>original wild bananas.
>Elizabeth

But I can get many diff varieties of bananas in the Gringo stores 
here in the Eastern USA and the Hispanic stores have an even better 
produce section...
And hey it beats the heck outta a turkey leg as a costume (as in 
temp,disposable <G>) prop....(see obligatory costume content <VVBEG>)

Ta
Carol, who luvs to shop in little hole in the wall stores!
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 08:15:41 -0500
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabeth I and smallpox
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As far as I know, she had strawberry blonde hair as a young girl which
was typical of the Tudors, although she had dark brown eyes. All the
pictures show her as very, very pale although there is one description of
her by a foreign ambassador that refers to darker skin. One biography I
read thought she might have been suffering from a liver ailment at the
time and her skin might have been somewhat yellowed from jaundice. 

As long as we are discussing medical issues along with costuming- one
somewhat scurrilous book postulated that all the children of Henry VIII
suffered from the effects of syphilis contracted in the womb from daddy.
This is supposed to explain the noxious smell that some reported as
coming from Mary I's nose, the weakness and sudden death of Edward, and
Elizabeth's extreme pallor and probable sterility.....which puts it in
direct contradiction to the theories that have her giving birth to
Southhampton, Francis Bacon, et al. Ain't history grand! 


Karen



On Mon, 13 Sep 2004 10:10:31 +0100 "Kate M Bunting"
<K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> writes:
> 
> 
> Kate Bunting
> Library, University of Derby
> 
> >>> athurman@gmail.com 13/09/2004 02:34:47 >>>  wrote:
> 
> >I think Alison Weir's biography of Elizabeth mentioned that she 
> wore
> a
> >mixture of alum and egg white from a fairly young age to hide her
> >unfashionably dark complexion. 
> 
> Dark complexion? Wasn't she a redhead?
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> 

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Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> athurman@gmail.com 13/09/2004 13:31:06 >>>
>I would think that they would have noticed that anyone coming in
>contact with infected clothes also got sick, just through
observation.
>Maybe less of a historic costume than a historic medicine question -
>did people in earlier centuries figure this out, before the discovery
>of germs?

>Allison T.

I remember reading that large amounts of clothing and soft furnishings
were destroyed unneccesarily following (I think) yellow fever, before it
was proved that the disease was spread by mosquito bites and not by
contagion.


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From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: the word "kit"
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> >I'm going to make a stab at it and see if I'm right! As I understand 
> >it, the word "kit" is used by many reenactment groups to mean all the

> >"stuff" that appertains to their costume and/or the role they play.
So 
> >it would mean their belts, knives, shoes, spoons, hatpins, etc. Not 
> >just the garments. I don't know if it also includes furniture and
camp 
> >things. In the US we generally use the word "kit" to mean gathered 
> >parts you assemble into something else, such as a model airplane kit,

> >but this is more in line with the (here) old soldier's "kit bag" use,

> >ie "Pack up your troubles in your old kit bag and smile, smile,
smile!"
> >
> >Gail Finke
> >
> This is correct, but "kit" is used in both senses, eg:
> "we have so much kit we had to buy a larger car" and
> "sometimes I just walk to events in kit, rather than change 
> when I get  there"
> 
> A lot of British reenactors also use "civvies" (ie, civilian clothes) 
> for modern clothing, from the same military background.

And to add to what Jean said, a some refer to non-re-enactors as
"grockles" (that isn't as common) and those who came into re-enactment
via SF fandom slip and refer to them byt the SF community name for non
fannish types and call them  "Mundanes".   Yesterday, when we were
coming towards the end of the day I asked someone if they were going to,
"travel home in kit or change into your mundanes?"

Teddy
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: extinct diseases
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In a message dated 9/12/2004 8:18:03 PM Central Daylight Time, "Genie" <
kerowyn@mindspring.com>
writes:

> Funny thing, one of my younger sister's smallpox vaccination did not 
> "take".  Twice they gave it to her and no scab/scar ever appeared.  She had a 
> natural immunity

Same thing happened to me!  I was born in 1952 so smallpox shots were 
required for school.  My twin brother has his "vaccination mark" on his left arm but 
mine never appeared.  I got it again, but still no "mark" appeared, just a 
little blue point where the injection was made.  The nurse also told me that I 
must have some kind of natural immunity.  It just seem to mean when all the 
other childhood diseases (mumps, measles, chickenpox) went around my family (twin 
brother and triplet sisters) I happened to get just enough to say I had it but 
was nowhere as miserable as my siblings.  Unfortunately, it does not seem to 
be genetic as my kids have all had the chicken pox (3 of them in one month) 
and were as sick as kids usually are with it.



Donna Scarfe
Fyne Hats By Felicity
Period Headgear for Past Ages
www.fynehatsbyfelicity.com
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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extinct Diseases
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It is notoriously the case that one of the most effective, and widely used,
early methods of bringing down the Indian population, in both North and
South America, was to give them blankets infected with smallpox. The
epidemics that resulted decimated many of the native tribes.

Lloyd Mitchell (for Kathleen)

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, September 13, 2004 9:19 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extinct Diseases


>
>
> Kate Bunting
> Library, University of Derby
>
> >>> athurman@gmail.com 13/09/2004 13:31:06 >>>
> >I would think that they would have noticed that anyone coming in
> >contact with infected clothes also got sick, just through
> observation.
> >Maybe less of a historic costume than a historic medicine question -
> >did people in earlier centuries figure this out, before the discovery
> >of germs?
>
> >Allison T.
>
> I remember reading that large amounts of clothing and soft furnishings
> were destroyed unneccesarily following (I think) yellow fever, before it
> was proved that the disease was spread by mosquito bites and not by
> contagion.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: Janet Renzetti <celtic_dragonrider@yahoo.ca>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Wet damp weather garb (WAS: Court Garb in hot weather)
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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YEs that is pretty much how it is here.  I am from British COlumbia.  We get drenched and shiver and still carry on.  We just completed a Tourney this last weekend and people showed up.  SHeltered durin the downpouir and went out during the breaks,  We wrung out our wet stuff and found dryer stuff to put on.   Nothing is ever sompletely dry at a camping event.  I have court outfits and Event outfits AKA Dry clean/gently wash and throw in the washing maching and dry.  SO I dont worry too much about the weather for the outfits so much as keeping my kids from getting sick.

Janet

Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk> wrote:
Most of my kit is washable so getting it wet/damp isn't a problem from
the maintence point of view (I'm in damp ol' England after all - mud is
part of re-enactment life here)

If it's just damp, I weather it and dry out, if it's an absolute
downpour I shelter where I can and venture out if I have to (that's what
cloaks and surcoats are for after all) Scotchguard on hems and outer
garments helps if your wool cloak isn't as waterproof as you'd like.

Unfortunately, the British public are used to rain so still turn up at
events and expect to be entertained. I have actually seen fighters stop
to empty the water out of their armour beofre carrying on with their
display.

Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Extinct diseases
From: ruthanne baumgartner <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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on 9/12/04 6:11 PM, Robin Netherton at robin@shell.nightowl.net wrote:

> How do I know all this? Because my day job is as a medical editor. Since I
> also have a specialty in medieval history, I seem to be the person who
> gets called when someone needs an article done on the medical history of
> plague. Nice when my two specialties intersect like that.
> 
> --Robin
> who really truly was trying to resist contributing to an off-topic thread


I'm the one who started this off-topic thread (by way of a little
parenthetical comment!), and I must say I'm really grateful that people
picked it up, because I've learned so much and have also felt a bond with
the people my age who shared memories.
And of course there are costume connections--masks, burning clothes, etc.
For me the real costume connection is that in the 'seventies, when shoes
with hugely built-up soles were popular, I found myself thinking "polio"
FIRST whenever I saw a student walking along in them (okay, I never found
myself thinking "fashion," but I did of course remember "fad" as a quick
second thought). That's what built-up shoes signified to my generation, at
least in our youth. My father had a younger friend who had had polio and who
wore one built-up shoe and a leg brace; same for my best friend's cousin.
This will be historic costuming information soon, if not already--and we can
thank medical research and a lot of stalwart sufferers that it HAS become
history.

Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

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	hot weather)
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> > >Note: perhaps, though it is not life threatening, people can say
what they
> > >do for those wet/damp weekends as well as the brisk weekends.
> 
> As a lifelong Californian, I have no idea what you're talking 
> about.  Rain is something that happens between October and 
> May.  Water falling from the sky in the summertime is just...WRONG.

Margo, you and Wayne come over and visit me one summer and I'll show you
what it's like over here.

A "lovely summer evening" in England can often mean that the rain is
nice and warm....

Teddy
 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Extinct diseases
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Nah, Ruth Anne, you made a passing remark in a post and I turned it into a 
full thread.

Yep, I remember my sister's shoes. One was normal and the other had a very 
thick bottom. The bottom of the leg brace was anchored between the normal 
sole and the thickened sole.

The weekend (which is usually slow) is over. I propose that we wrap up this 
thread by noon and get back on topic!

Katie, who has enjoyed the weekend interlude but looks forward to some 
meaty on-topic posts <g>.


>I'm the one who started this off-topic thread (by way of a little
>parenthetical comment!), and I must say I'm really grateful that people
>picked it up, because I've learned so much and have also felt a bond with
>the people my age who shared memories.
>And of course there are costume connections--masks, burning clothes, etc.
>For me the real costume connection is that in the 'seventies, when shoes
>with hugely built-up soles were popular, I found myself thinking "polio"
>FIRST whenever I saw a student walking along in them (okay, I never found
>myself thinking "fashion," but I did of course remember "fad" as a quick
>second thought). That's what built-up shoes signified to my generation, at
>least in our youth. My father had a younger friend who had had polio and who
>wore one built-up shoe and a leg brace; same for my best friend's cousin.
>This will be historic costuming information soon, if not already--and we can
>thank medical research and a lot of stalwart sufferers that it HAS become
>history.
>
>Ruth Anne Baumgartner
>scholar gypsy and amateur costumer


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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 08:18:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jane Austin movies
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> I just picked up the BBC versions of Jane Austin's "Sense and
> Sensibility",
> "Pride and Prejudice", "Persuasion", and "Mansfield Park" at Costco for
> about US$10 each.

I also picked up "Vanity Fair", the A&E/BBC version for around $22
dollars.  I hadn't heard much about it but it was well done.  Hard to
watch, though, because many of the characters are not very nice.  It is
sort of like a more realistic picture of Jane Austen's time.

And I didn't think I liked it all that much until I saw the new version
out in theaters.  They made Becky look pretty nice compared to what the
A&E version showed!  And the other characters were a bit flat also.

Diana

Diana Habra
www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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From: Katie Pleasance <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jane Austin movies
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Bbbb...Bbut..., what were the costumes like in the two versions of Vanity 
Fair?

I liked some of the costumes in the Jane Austin movies -- I've always loved 
Empire / Regency gowns <yummmm...>

I found the acting in the BBC Jane Austin movies to be 'arch' - overacted 
to the point of being overbearing and almost painful to watch. And, oh, the 
characters! -- either insipid or viciously greedy and status-conscious to 
the point that I almost consider the movies to be parodies of how the 'rich 
and famous' of the era lived.

Katie, who wants to make up some Regency gowns just to wear around the 
house <g>. Ooo! La! they are *so* luscious! I swoon at the thought of them!!!


>I also picked up "Vanity Fair", the A&E/BBC version for around $22
>dollars.  I hadn't heard much about it but it was well done.  Hard to
>watch, though, because many of the characters are not very nice.  It is
>sort of like a more realistic picture of Jane Austen's time.
>And I didn't think I liked it all that much until I saw the new version
>out in theaters.  They made Becky look pretty nice compared to what the
>A&E version showed!  And the other characters were a bit flat also.
>Diana


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I think it was on this list that somebody commented about wool slippers and 
that it was important that the wool be / not be 'shearling'. My wonderful 
made-in-New Zealand sheepskin slippers are finally dying. Costco has some 
'shearling' wool slippers.

I've forgotten whether shearling is good or bad <g>. I thought that I had 
saved the message, but couldn't find it when I searched.

Also, is there any way to make such slippers look medieval / renaissance?

Thanks,

Katie

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:of bananas and other treats....
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I've often wondered if the so-called bananas were actually plantains. Any
thoughts?

Arlys


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>
>I also picked up "Vanity Fair", the A&E/BBC version for around $22
>dollars.  I hadn't heard much about it but it was well done.  
>
I think it's extremely well done.

>Hard to
>watch, though, because many of the characters are not very nice. 
>
I've always admired Becky Sharp tremendously.  She's intelligent, 
clever, a witty conversationalist, and an excellent amateur musician. 
(And she makes her own dresses, including apparently her own court 
dress, judging from the dialog in the book.  Thackery says "she had as 
good taste as any milliner in Europe.")  Most of all, she's endlessly 
courageous and persistent.  _Vanity Fair_ can be seen as largely about 
the tragedy of such a woman being in a position where society allows her 
little to do but be a wife, mother, and hostess.

Amelia Sedley, the "perfect" Victorian women, is stupid, insipid, and 
passive to the point of self-desctruction.  Thackeray even says he got 
notes from female readers of the magazine serial saying Amelia was 
insipid, and less of her already.

Fran Grimble
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
Two new books of 1870s and 1880s patterns!
http://www.lavoltapress.com









> It is
>sort of like a more realistic picture of Jane Austen's time.
>
>And I didn't think I liked it all that much until I saw the new version
>out in theaters.  They made Becky look pretty nice compared to what the
>A&E version showed!  And the other characters were a bit flat also.
>
>Diana
>
>Diana Habra
>www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
>"Everything for the Costumer"
>
>_______________________________________________
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>
>  
>
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Katie Pleasance wrote:

> I've forgotten whether shearling is good or bad <g>.

It was me.

Real shearling is the leather of the sheep with the wool still attached 
to it, just shorn short.  So there's no glue involved, which means the 
slippers don't get sweaty.  Pretend shearling has leather with fuzzy 
fabrics of various sorts (sometimes even wool) glued onto it, which 
makes it pretty much plastic-coated leather.  Rather sweaty.

However, in the US, the term "shearling" is not regulated (much like 
"white chocolate") so you could get anything from the real stuff through 
terrible plasticy stuff.  I've even seen polyester fleece described as 
"shearling."

Coats are also made of shearling; same cautions apply.

As for making the slippers look medieval, probably not.  However, if the 
outside is plain, they might pass under skirts.  Shearling is usually 
not dyed much, so it's most commonly seen in medium brown on the leather 
and cream color of the wool.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

For nonsqueamish gourmets: "At peace with my role in the food chain" BBQ 
Apron -- http://www.cafepress.com/virtueventures
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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jane Austin movies
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I don't know if you mean Jane Austin's heroines, but most were clinging 
to the lower strata of the upper classes and had relatives who were down 
in the middle classes.  Marriage was pretty much the only economic 
option for such a woman.  Finding a husband was like finding a 
job/career. It had to be the best possible choice because it was likely 
to last the rest of the woman's life, and it was likely to affect the 
career and marriage prospects of her siblings and other family members.  
Jane Austin herself never made any real money from writing.  She, her 
widowed mother, and her spinster sister Cassandra ended their days as 
dependents on a brother who was lucky enough to get adopted as the heir 
of a rather distant wealthy relative.  Without their brother's support 
they would probably have been impoverished. Or Jane would have had to 
marry the affluent (but apparently, not sufficiently lovable) suitor 
whose sisters (Jane's friends) pushed him to make a proposal when Jane 
seemed about doomed to spinsterhood.  Austin was quite realistic about 
women's financial options for her social class in her books.

Fran Grimble
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com



>   And, oh, the characters! -- either insipid or viciously greedy and 
> status-conscious to the point that I almost consider the movies to be 
> parodies of how the 'rich and famous' of the era lived.
>
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:of bananas and other treats....
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>
> I've often wondered if the so-called bananas were actually plantains. Any
> thoughts?

Well, bananas (Musa acuminata x M. paradisiaca) are indeed kin to plantains
(M. paradisiaca).  

http://www.crfg.org/pubs/ff/banana.html
http://www.congocookbook.com/c0048.html

Jerusha
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: iron lungs,  smallpox
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Actually, many people did only have to use iron lungs for a short time. Mia
Farrow's biography (a pretty strange read) has a bit about how she was taken
to a hospital as a child, and put in an iron lung for a few days. I guess it
would be pretty frightening for a small child.

Here is some interesting and costume-related smallpox information: A recent
book about the development of the smallpox vaccine tells the story of a
woman who was partially responsible for it. She was Lady Something-or-other,
and I don't know the name of the book, but it was published within the year
so a librarian should be able to identify it easily. I heard the author on
the radio, and thought it quite interesting, but not interesting enough to
read further. Anyway, it was an English lady whose husband was posted to
India or some country in the region. She was astonished to find that harem
women had gorgeous skin -- no smallpox marks. And then she discovered that
these women inoculated their children against smallpox in some low-tech way
that I forget, by scratching their skin and putting smallpox scabs against
the wound, or something similar. Anyway, the author talked a bit about the
sorts of clothes the two groups of women wore, and how much the English
fashions covered up smallpox scars while the harem clothes didn't.

Gail Finke


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fwd: Solar powered jacket
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At Sun, 12 Sep 2004 12:13:20 -0700, Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> 
wrote:

>>http://www.scottevest.com/pressrelease/sev_solar/index.html
>
>Not an endorsement, only a FYI - I'm certainly not going to buy one of 
>these.  The jacket comes with photo-voltaic panels on the back, and lots 
>of pockets in which to put your PDA, cell phone, etc. which can use the 
>chargeable battery the jacket also comes with.

I purchased earlier scottevests (2.0 and 2.0 Sport) for Frank and myself 
when they were new. Great for holding gear, but all the weight of that gear 
hung from my shoulders and got uncomfortable very quickly. It was EXTREMELY 
useful for air flight, though, since it does NOT count as a piece of 
luggage or carryon or handbag, and when we went to Las Vegas in 2002, I 
still needed to carry around a train case of drugs and personal medical 
supplies, in addition to always carrying around my notebook computer in ITs 
case, so I needed that garment just to carry what would normally fit into 
my handbag so I could pack the (empty) handbag into my (checked) valise.

I've since shrunk too far out of my 2.0 Sport to wear, but it fits Frank 
just fine now that he's lost a bit of weight as well, so the investment has 
not at ALL gone to waste.

The solar-powered one sounds absolutely GREAT for when we do ham radio 
communications for events like the NYC Marathon.



Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] shearling wool
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So, to clarify, _real_ shearling _is_ a good thing?  Here's hoping, since I
plan to order enough for a gown lining in the next month! =}

-E, impatiently waiting for pertinent books to arrive in the mail

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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 10:49:38 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Katie Pleasance <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jane Austin movies
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As I've been watching the movies, drooling over some of the dresses, it 
constantly comes to my mind that the author must have been a horribly 
bitter and unhappy woman. What you say about her life explains it. She 
desperately wanted to climb to a higher social class and failed at the game 
of getting a good (rich + personally acceptable) husband and became a 
shrill critic of the system.

Did she prefer dramatic impoverishment over the option of marrying somebody 
who lacked the social / financial status that she seems to have craved?

As always, my opinion,

BTW, what are the best sources for Regency / Empire dress patterns?

Katie

At 09:37 AM 9/13/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>I don't know if you mean Jane Austin's heroines, but most were clinging to 
>the lower strata of the upper classes and had relatives who were down in 
>the middle classes.  Marriage was pretty much the only economic option for 
>such a woman.  Finding a husband was like finding a job/career. It had to 
>be the best possible choice because it was likely to last the rest of the 
>woman's life, and it was likely to affect the career and marriage 
>prospects of her siblings and other family members.
>Jane Austin herself never made any real money from writing.  She, her 
>widowed mother, and her spinster sister Cassandra ended their days as 
>dependents on a brother who was lucky enough to get adopted as the heir of 
>a rather distant wealthy relative.  Without their brother's support they 
>would probably have been impoverished. Or Jane would have had to marry the 
>affluent (but apparently, not sufficiently lovable) suitor whose sisters 
>(Jane's friends) pushed him to make a proposal when Jane seemed about 
>doomed to spinsterhood.  Austin was quite realistic about women's 
>financial options for her social class in her books.
>
>Fran Grimble


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E House wrote:

> So, to clarify, _real_ shearling _is_ a good thing?  Here's hoping, since I
> plan to order enough for a gown lining in the next month! =}

It's great for shoes and coats.

A gown lining?  I'd think it would be way too thick.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

Silmarillion: The Musical  -- The very secret diaries
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Ruthanne said:
>
> I'm the one who started this off-topic thread (by way of a little
> parenthetical comment!), and I must say I'm really grateful that people
> picked it up, because I've learned so much and have also felt a bond with
> the people my age who shared memories.
> And of course there are costume connections--masks, burning clothes, etc.
> For me the real costume connection is that in the 'seventies, when shoes
> with hugely built-up soles were popular, I found myself thinking "polio"
> FIRST whenever I saw a student walking along in them (okay, I never found
> myself thinking "fashion," but I did of course remember "fad" as a quick
> second thought). That's what built-up shoes signified to my generation, at
> least in our youth.

I too am grateful for this thread, costume related no, historic yes. Born in
1952, I remember getting my whole family walking down to my elementary
school, even my parents(!), and getting our sugar squares. I also remember
the doctor giving my sister and me our vaccines on our thighs because "girls
this pretty shouldn't have scars on their arms where people can see." My
brothers' scars are on their arms. Being short and having glasses and new
braces at the time, the handsome doctor's words meant a lot and I've always
remembered them. He probably said it to every little girl but it made us
feel special.

I remember iron lungs on television and in the movie, "Pennies from Heaven"
(?) about a big band musician whose daughter developed polio, was in the
iron lung for a while and had to wear leg braces.

I also remember a few of the kids in my school having leg braces and some
adults in the neighborhood wearing one platform shoe. The shoes never seemed
high enough and the person still had to limp badly.

One of our close friends had polio as a child. His legs are both short for
his body length and he still needs an afternoon nap much of the time. There
is a medical condition called post-polio syndrome, or something like that.
The muscles don't work as well as they did and the person gets very tired
and requires rest. His wife figures that within the next 15 years he will
probably be in a wheel chair much of the time, and they are planning for
this eventuality in their house.

LynnD


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] shearling wool
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I was just thinking -- what I ought to do is buy a junk sherling fur coat 
from ebay and make my own woolies. To heck with Costco!

Hmmm. I've got some fox fur scraps that would make absolutely luscious 
linings for some slippers <g>.

Katie

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Linen / Dye Removal
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> I found some 100% linen at a decent price. My problem however is
the 
> horrible banana yellow color. Can I use rit color remover?
> Perhaps another removal suggestion? I really want this linen!
> 

I bought some linen from fabrics.com that was supposed to be a sort
of "coffee" color, but when it arrived all it reminded me of was bog
mud!  It was a horrid dark, dark, green-ish brown!  What I did was
soaked it in diluted Clorox *Advantage*.  Advantage works like
regular Clorox, but doesn't break down the fibers (at least not as
much).  My linen came out a light peach color and seemed just as
strong as before I bleached it.

Hope that helps!
Mary

=====
"Pictures of perfection, as you know, make me sick & wicked."
~ Jane Austen

"Right now I'm having amnesia and deja vu at the same time.  I think I've forgotten this before."      ~ Steven Wright
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Brenda Bell <webwarren@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Chassidim
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At Sat, 11 Sep 2004 08:57:56 -0400, Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net> 
wrote:

>Chassidim are a sect of ultra-orthodox Jews.

I would describe Chassidism as a movement in Judaism somewhat similar to 
the charismatic movement in Christianity. There are several major branches 
of Chassidism which would be vaguely analogous to different Christian 
charismatic denominations/churches.

>Chassidim live in many places, but there is a big group (or groups?) in 
>New York City.

Several groups, each coming from a different major city in Eastern Europe, 
each following the teachings of a different charismatic leader or "Rebbe". 
The founding Rebbe of each Chassidic sect developed his following from 
adopting (and adapting?) the teachings of the founder of the Chassidic 
movement.

The easiest way to distinguish one Chassidic sect from another is by the 
shape and composition of their hats. Those of the Lubavitch sect 
(Lubavitchers) wear porkpie hats; those of the Satmar sect wear 
shallow-crowned hats with broad brims; those of the Bobov sect (Bobovers) 
wear something that looks like the stereotypical "Russian fur hat".  (I'm 
not sure about the other sects; there are at least four that I haven't 
mentioned.) There are also variations in the particular length and cut of 
their coats, but I'm not as clued into that.

>Chassidic women have to cover their hair at all times,

Married Chassidic women. The unmarried women usually leave their hair 
uncovered, but they tend to wear it unadorned and conservatively-styled.

>I think they may have to wear skirts as well, and they are supposed to 
>cover their legs.

Yes, since pants are men's garments and the Bible prohibits one from 
dressing in the garments of the opposite gender, and bare skin is 
considered "immodest" and might tempt a man to, er, misbehave.

>Bizarrely, this is often done by wearing stockings and wigs,

Always heavy opaque stockings, and the skirts are always below the knees. 
In some Chassidic communities, even toddler girls wear woolen stockings and 
heavy "maxi skirts" in the hottest heat of summer.

>so they don't look that much different from other women -- losing the 
>whole point of the thing.

The wigs are all of a handful of easily-recognizeable styles which almost 
NOBODY else ever wears.

Also, in some communities, either a kerchief (which covers most or all of 
one's hair) or a large hat (ditto) is equally acceptable or sometimes even 
preferred, since a wig *can* be considered to be immodest in that it might 
cause someone to think you have attractive hair and tempt him to, er, act 
inappropriately.  Again, the styles of hat tend to be different than those 
you'd see on non-Jewish women.

Overall, though, in a group of Orthodox/observant Jewish women, it's much 
harder to pick out the Chassidic women than it is to pick out the Chassidim 
in a group of Orthodox/observant Jewish men.



Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net

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> I too am grateful for this thread, costume related no, historic yes.
> Born in 1952, I remember getting my whole family walking down to my
> elementary school, even my parents(!), and getting our sugar squares.

I remember all of us being told to go to Salk Junior High to get the 
oral Sabine vaccine. But I was also among the people who had a "bad 
reaction" to that first oral vaccine. My pediatrician said I should 
never get the oral form again because of it. (Of course, if I had 
known what I know now, I would have found out more about the symptoms 
I had and at least have mom write them down. None of us can remember 
what happened except that I was "very sick." Fortunately, I was able 
to get the shot form (which we pediatricians started to use again a 
few years back.)

My brother-in-law had polio as a child. He's 6" shorter than his 
brothers and has a shorter arm (not deformed at least).

I also had friends who had polio. Not a fun disease. (And even as 
late as 1964 they were avoiding tonsillectomies at certain times of 
the year as a way of avoiding polio, even though the injectable polio 
vaccine had been out for something like 12 years at that point.)

> I also remember the doctor giving my sister and me our vaccines on our
> thighs because "girls this pretty shouldn't have scars on their arms
> where people can see." My brothers' scars are on their arms. Being
> short and having glasses and new braces at the time, the handsome
> doctor's words meant a lot and I've always remembered them. He
> probably said it to every little girl but it made us feel special.

The school (without bothering with permissions slips in those days) 
gave me my first smallpox vaccine in 1963. I had a second in 1973 
because I was going to be working with the vaccine in virology lab. 
It was already out of common usage by that time. 

When I was in pediatric residency (1980-83) it was considered 
malpractice to give someone the smallpox vaccine. (We had one doctor 
in town who had stockpiled it and was still giving it. It was a big 
scandal. However, we had no way of stopping it since none of his 
patients ever sued him for malpractice. He didn't have privileges 
except at the "black" hosptial in town so the hospital administrators 
could never do anything either.)

Hey, Robin! I fixed the "from" line problem!

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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She is the famous lady who wrote about smallpox inoculation at the beginning
of the eighteenth century in Constantinople where her husband was
ambassador.  Her collected (and personally edited) letters are fascinating
and were particularly useful when I wrote about real and supposed Turkish
influence on eighteenth century women's dress.  She wore real Turkish
costume while abroad and wrote to friends about Turkish women's clothing on
many occasions.  Her letters, published in the 1760's I think, helped to
popularize Turkish-inspired costumes for theatre, masquerade, and
portraiture, and also contributed to "Turkish" elements in more conventional
fashion.  Believe I could write for hours, but luckily I won't!
Alexia

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From: Katie Pleasance <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fwd: Solar powered jacket
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Small world. Hubby is KB7VI. I'm KF6BKP, at least that's what my car's 
license plate says. Hubby says that the BKP means "Beautiful Katie 
Pleasance" <giggle>. His VI stands for Village Idiot <more giggles>. I love 
him anyway <g>.

Katie

>The solar-powered one sounds absolutely GREAT for when we do ham radio 
>communications for events like the NYC Marathon.
>Brenda
>webwarren@earthlink.net


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Katie:

I think you should try reading the books before you try to psychoanalyze
Jane Austin. There is a reason they are among the most beloved of novels --
they are delightful. Or at least a large number of people find them
delightful (your taste may differ). I haven't seen the old BBC productions,
so I don't know, but what you may be detecting is a bias on the part of the
screenwriters. For instance, the recent Ang Lee movie of "Sense of
Sensibility," the one starring Kate Winslett and Emma Thomson, has very
little of the book's flavor. "S&S" is a very funny book, full of very funny
characters, with a surprise ending that is also quite amusing. The A&E
production of "Pride and Prejudice" with Colin Firth is much better at
capturing the spirit of the book, and of course the costumes are gorgeous.

Many feminist critics today don't like Jane Austin novels because they don't
think the world she was writing about was fair. And it wasn't fair -- but
neither was any other era, including our own. You have to take it as it is
(or was) and enjoy it from there. But if that's not something you like to
do, then I would steer clear of them.

Back to costume content -- has anyone seen the old black and white "P&P"
with ... oh darn it, who are they? Greer Garson, maybe, and one of the
Barrymores? It's a real hoot, and the costumes are hilarious. A bizarre
mixture of 1930s or 40s Hollywood and Regency.

Gail Finke

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jane Austin movies
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 21:42:43 +0200
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My two cents also.
I was quite surprised when i watched Sense and Sensabillity, that the widow
got nothing after her husband, and her daughters neither. It never accured
to me that it only was the eldest son who got the whole thing.
It really was a matter of good marriage and money that counted.
You may say that it all is about that, to marry well, but i think that her
charakters are so interresting and worth watching, that it dont matter.
I love the films, and i still have the best part to go for, to read it in
english!

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lavolta Press" <fran@lavoltapress.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, September 13, 2004 6:37 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jane Austin movies


> I don't know if you mean Jane Austin's heroines, but most were clinging
> to the lower strata of the upper classes and had relatives who were down
> in the middle classes.  Marriage was pretty much the only economic
> option for such a woman.  Finding a husband was like finding a
> job/career. It had to be the best possible choice because it was likely
> to last the rest of the woman's life, and it was likely to affect the
> career and marriage prospects of her siblings and other family members.
> Jane Austin herself never made any real money from writing.  She, her
> widowed mother, and her spinster sister Cassandra ended their days as
> dependents on a brother who was lucky enough to get adopted as the heir
> of a rather distant wealthy relative.  Without their brother's support
> they would probably have been impoverished. Or Jane would have had to
> marry the affluent (but apparently, not sufficiently lovable) suitor
> whose sisters (Jane's friends) pushed him to make a proposal when Jane
> seemed about doomed to spinsterhood.  Austin was quite realistic about
> women's financial options for her social class in her books.
>
> Fran Grimble
> Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
>
>
>
> >   And, oh, the characters! -- either insipid or viciously greedy and
> > status-conscious to the point that I almost consider the movies to be
> > parodies of how the 'rich and famous' of the era lived.
> >
> _______________________________________________
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> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: jane austin movies
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In a message dated 9/13/2004 3:28:27 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
gailscott@eos.net writes:

> "S&S" is a very funny book, full of very funny
> characters, with a surprise ending that is also quite amusing.

Uh....I thought the movie was too.

Of the BBC ones I've only seen part of "Mansfield Park"....until I couldn't 
stand it any more. I thought it was awful and a bore. Not everything BBC does 
is great, y'know. Neither is following the book to a T. [But the books' 
strengths are the way they're written, not the plot. Such language!]

But the A&E P&P is almost perfect. I liked the film of "Emma" with Gweneth 
Paltrow even if the costumes were a little uninspired, and I also like the film 
of "Persuasion".
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Gail & Scott Finke wrote:

>Back to costume content -- has anyone seen the old black and white "P&P"
>with ... oh darn it, who are they? Greer Garson, maybe, and one of the
>Barrymores? It's a real hoot, and the costumes are hilarious. A bizarre
>mixture of 1930s or 40s Hollywood and Regency.
>  
>

Oh yes, with Laurence Olivier as Mr. Darcy. Definite hoot. I think the 
period they were going for, costume-wise, was the 1830s, complex 
sleeves, lower waist and big hats. The truly weird thing is that Aldous 
Huxley wrote the screenplay, I think. No wonder it didn't sound much 
like the book! But fun, nonetheless.

BTW, when people mention the BBC Pride and Prejudice do you mean the 
recent Colin Firth as Mr. Darcy one or the 1980 David Rintoul as Mr. 
Darcy one? I love the latter more than the former Much as I like Colin 
Firth, it seemed a bit too modern in sensibility. But how about the 
costumes? Which version had more authentic costumes?

- Hope
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----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Cynthia Virtue" <cvirtue+dated+1110650993.8267bd@thibault.org>
> It's great for shoes and coats.
> A gown lining?  I'd think it would be way too thick.

Hrm. What I'd probably be ordering has a 1/2" nap, and looks a great deal
thinner than the lining of the gowns I'm imitating.  Also, it mooshes
nicely; the bulk when pinched isn't more than ~1/8", barely more than the
thickness of the leather.

>From what I've read, lambskin at least was certainly used as a lower-class
gown lining... was I mislead? Or is there a huge difference in thickness
between lambskin and shearling? Was shearling not used in this way?

(By the way, by "a good thing" I mean "an accurate thing"! =} )

-E House
Liberty in Our Lifetime - www.freestateproject.org
Coming Soon - http://www.seamcheckers.com


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Hi all.
Thanks for all your informations you gave me with this question.
My worries about it is that the chenille i have is rather thick, i got it
from Hedgehog Handworks. But the undyed chenille silk i have ordered, i have
no idea about thickness with. Must waite and see how it is, got it from
Mulberry.
I have just ordered some embroidery books from Amazon and amungst them are a
coupple of stumpwork, so i think i will waite to get some ideas from the
books.
Also i will make a lot of experimentation with the threads.
I am much inspired by a courtdress in Costume in Details 17th and 18th
century wich has sprays of dark red flowers on the sleave ruffles, but these
flowers are couched on the surface and not dimentional. But the flowers on
the dress from Kyoto definately has raised flowers on.
This will be a long lasting projekt, i am glad that i have only this to make
all fall and winter, summer has its charm, but somehow i look forwards to
all this cosy time inside where it is warm and cosy.




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] shearling wool
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On Mon, 13 Sep 2004, E House wrote:

> From what I've read, lambskin at least was certainly used as a lower-class
> gown lining... was I mislead? Or is there a huge difference in thickness
> between lambskin and shearling? Was shearling not used in this way?

Budge was definitely a common gown lining, and not just lower-class. What
I don't know is whether shearling is similar in weight.

The issue would be as much the thickness of the skin as of the hair. The
fine furs I've seen handle like fabric. Good, fine kid gloves might be a
reasonable touchstone for comparison, if you've seen those.

--Robin

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From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <BD6B6C0F.11D58%gailscott@eos.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: jane austin movies
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 15:20:08 -0500
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gail & Scott Finke" <gailscott@eos.net>
> Back to costume content -- has anyone seen the old black and white "P&P"
> with ... oh darn it, who are they? Greer Garson, maybe, and one of the
> Barrymores? It's a real hoot, and the costumes are hilarious. A bizarre
> mixture of 1930s or 40s Hollywood and Regency.


Oh dear--is that the one where Lady Catherine de Bourgh is only _acting_ mean in order to test Lizzie, then goes back to tell Darcy to marry her, eyes all a twinkle?

I had to cover my eyes for that one. 

Almost as bad as the 1934 version of "Anne of Green Gables" where Marilla hates Gilbert Blythe, and he and Anne are secretly engaged, and Gilbert wins Marilla over by saving Matthew's life... yeesh.  Wouldn't you hate to be the unfortunate actress who changed her name to Anne Shirley, for THAT?!  (Not that "Dawn O'Day" was much better.)  

This brings up something that's annoyed me a great deal with 1930s and 40s movies--if you're setting a movie only 20 or 30 years in the past, why don't you *$%#*%^! go to the used clothing store and get REAL 20 or 30 year old clothing?! 

OK, OK, I know all the reasons, I just don't like 'em. 

-E House
Liberty in Our Lifetime - www.freestateproject.org
Coming Soon - http://www.seamcheckers.com

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E House wrote:

>From what I've read, lambskin at least was certainly used as a lower-class
> gown lining... was I mislead? Or is there a huge difference in thickness
> between lambskin and shearling? Was shearling not used in this way?

I don't know about the history (what time and place?), but I do know 
that although I can pinch my shearling slippers down, over the whole 
foot, it doesn't compress too much, because the wool is springy.  The 
weight used for slippers wouldn't be a good thing for lining a dress, I 
think.  There may well be other weights.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

For nonsqueamish gourmets: "At peace with my role in the food chain" BBQ 
Apron -- http://www.cafepress.com/virtueventures
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In a message dated 9/13/2004 3:43:33 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

> that the widow
> got nothing after her husband, and her daughters neither. 

Don't forget....Mr. Dashwood's second marriage! Their the son's half sisters 
and she's not his mother.
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In a message dated 9/13/2004 4:22:58 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
formfunc@formfunction.org writes:

> This brings up something that's annoyed me a great deal with 1930s and 40s 
> movies--if you're setting a movie only 20 or 30 years in the past, why don't 
> you *$%#*%^! go to the used clothing store and get REAL 20 or 30 year old 
> clothing?! 
> 

Darling.....Norma Shear and Joan Crawford are NOT going to wear old 
clothes!!!!!
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From: "Cindy Abel" <brujne@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Jane Austin movies
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 16:07:08 -0500
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As I've been watching the movies, drooling over some of the dresses, it
constantly comes to my mind that the author must have been a horribly
bitter and unhappy woman. What you say about her life explains it. She
desperately wanted to climb to a higher social class and failed at the game
of getting a good (rich + personally acceptable) husband and became a
shrill critic of the system.

Katie: Thanks for your observations. Jane did have a perfectly acceptible
proposal of marriage in her twenties, but after literally mulling it over
overnight, refused the offer the following morning, realizing she did not
love the man in question. This had to be difficult, knowing it was probably
the last proposal she was likely to get. Little evidence remains of exactly
why Jane rejected the marriage offer, with marriage about the only
acceptible means to keep or move up the place she had on the British social
scale. And she or Cassandra may have destroyed any writing she had done
explaning the ins and outs of her why not.

Being born a Reverend's daughter, did she not want the role, seeing the
economic stresses it had placed on her mother(a through
hypocondriac--possibly Mrs. Austen's only way to get attention and evade
some responsibly in an economically stressed household)?  Was her parents'
marriage more unhappy than the surviving evidence shows? Was she, like her
creation Elizabeth Bennent, unwilling to wed a man she couldn't respect or
had characteristics and/or habits that would have really embittered her over
time. Did she see enough "bad" marriages to distrust the institution. I
don't see Jane as a shrill critic of the system which was a very tough
system for both parties. Men really had more freedom in that they could
marry "below themselves", providing their choice met with their families'
approval or they had their own independent income where being dispossessed
didn't matter.  Women were always under pressure to marry "up" or at least
"horizontally" on the social scale. Thus the pressure for social
accomplishments, domestic skills, a good dowery, family connections, and an
attractive person and personality. As marriageable women outnumbered
marriageable men, men could pick and choose. Women were under more pressure
to simply accept any suitable offer. And divorce was practically unheard of.

English girls and women had the spectre of their own British royal family,
where George III and Queen Charlotte only arranged for the eldest of their
several daughters to marry, and not an altogether grand royal marriage at
that. While King and Queen insisted they could not bear to part with their
daughters, the real reasons were probably more socio-political,(a severe
dearth of eligible, never mind presentable foreign princes(marrying with
England was out of the question) and most likely, sheer financial. Prinny
and a couple of his brothers ran up debts that probably would have made it
impossible for Dad and Mum to dare ask Parliament for nice doweries for the
other Princesses. The princesses referred to their confinement as
imprisonment, and frequency referred in letters to their brothers who were
allowed their own households and allowances, as being confined in "The
Nunnery."

Had England and its Empire been Catholic still, they may have followed the
more usual European example of sending their surplus  daughters to convents,
thus cutting down on the man shortage problem, somewhat.

It would be interesting to she what influence, if any, we might infer, that
the pressure of the English "Marriage Mart" had on dress and costume,
especially for women.

Cindy Abel

Just my opinion


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: jane austin movies
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In a message dated 9/13/2004 4:58:41 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

> Darling.....Norma Shear and Joan Crawford are NOT going to wear old 
> clothes!!!!!
> 

Seriously folks it must be remembered that movie making was much different 
back then. The studios were self contained. They wanted and had control over 
everything. They had their own wardrobe departments with full time employees and 
movies were just projects to which an employee got assigned....even the 
designer.
They did wardrobe tests before shooting, and hair tests, make up tests...etc.
They reshot things that they didn't like [take the opening scene of Gone With 
The Wind ]...and recast things if someone just wasn't right....AFTER shooting 
started. Location shooting was rare. They never even go outside in "The 
Wizard of Oz"! It's all sound stage work.

All these things are very very rare these days.

Early 70s gritty realistic films, like "The French Connection" or "Z" were 
the cutting edge [pun unintended] then and have a huge influence on movie making 
as we know it today.
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 14:14:49 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Katie Pleasance <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
Subject: [h-cost] Re: jane austin movies
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As I said, my judgement so far is based *solely* on the movies.

I do intend to read the books, if for no other reason than to compare the 
opinions I have drawn from the movies with the opinions I will draw from 
the books. There's gotta be something wonderful about the books or they 
wouldn't be so well loved.

I hope the movies are misrepresentative stereotyping. I am three movies 
into the four movies that I bought and so far I haven't seen a single 
character that I'd like as a friend -- that's pretty ghastly. Well, in 
Sense and Sensibility, maybe the serious girl, but the frivolous one is a 
mindless twit. In the others, nope, nobody I'd want to be friends with. 
Well, the five girls' father seems reasonable <g>. With a wife like his, 
I'd hide in the library, too.

I repeat. All my opinions so far come from the movies. I think that each 
character is played as though wearing a mask announcing to  the audience 
what kind of a person she/he is. Each character is acted as a wooden 
stereotype and I gain no feeling of connection with any of them.

Why do the women in the movies have to be so bloomin' inept at finding a 
suitable husband? Because every single one of them is a shallow, 
one-dimensional personality that has no real interests and as a result they 
are themselves uninteresting. All the men are either inept bumblers or 
heartless cads, with a few exceptions, such as Mr. Bennet in S&S, who has 
been turned into a psychological eunuch by his endlessly nagging wife. 
Charlotte, the cousin who does get married and has a good heart, walks 
around wearing the psychological equivalent of a "kick-me" sign. Who could 
possibly like Mr Collins (?) who is the epitome of the fawning sycophant. 
Charlotte ends up marrying him, so maybe it's a good match.

Thus my opinion of the movies and my conjectures about the author. The 
movies cause me to imagine the author as a self-pitying whiner who revealed 
her frustrations by portraying a social system in which she herself had not 
succeeded. I hope that I find that I am wrong when I read the books. BTW, I 
came to this conclusion *before* this thread began.

--> And I continue to like the costumes. I'll probably screen-capture 
pictures of my favorite garments and put the movies on the shelf for a very 
rainy day.

As always, my opinion

Katie, who's going out to split some firewood for the coming winter. It's 
as healthy as joining a gym and riding a bicycle to no-where and a lot more 
satisfying, especially during this upcoming winter's chilly mornings. Gotta 
love My Lord Husband -- he gets the fire going before he goes to work so 
that the house is toasty when I get up <big smile>




>I think you should try reading the books before you try to psychoanalyze
>Jane Austin. There is a reason they are among the most beloved of novels --
>they are delightful.


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From: Katie Pleasance <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jane Austin movies
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In the very upper class social system of the time, inheritance was governed 
by "primogeniture" - the first son got the estate, the second son entered 
the military, the third son became a clergyman, and the remainder were left 
to either marry a rich woman or find some other way to support themselves. 
The daughters were expected to marry a first, second, or third son or 
become a spinster or a nun or marry beneath their status.

That's an oversimplification, of course, but until a few centuries ago, it 
was the way things were in most of Europe and the Americas.



Katie

At 09:42 PM 9/13/2004 +0200, you wrote:
>My two cents also.
>I was quite surprised when i watched Sense and Sensabillity, that the widow
>got nothing after her husband, and her daughters neither. It never accured
>to me that it only was the eldest son who got the whole thing.
>It really was a matter of good marriage and money that counted.
>You may say that it all is about that, to marry well, but i think that her
>charakters are so interresting and worth watching, that it dont matter.
>I love the films, and i still have the best part to go for, to read it in
>english!
>Bjarne


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jane Austin movies
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Katie Pleasance wrote:

> the third son became a clergyman,

> The daughters were expected to marry a first, 
> second, or third son

The clergyman?  :)

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

Register to vote!  Don't let that other guy win!
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Katie Pleasance <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: jane austin movies
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We started with Mansfield Park. We stopped for the evening in the middle of 
the first side of the DVD more than a week ago and haven't got back to it 
yet. I cannot imagine a move much boring than the BBC version of Mansfield 
Park.

I think that we will have to watch Knight's Tale again in order to remove 
the bad taste that Mansfield Park has left.  Hubby *loves* Knight's Tale <g>.

The dialog that is probably delightful in the book comes across as stilted 
and arrogant in the movies.

Katie, who will continue to repeat that she likes the costumes so that 
nobody jumps on her for being off-topic again <g>.


>Of the BBC ones I've only seen part of "Mansfield Park"....until I couldn't
>stand it any more. I thought it was awful and a bore. Not everything BBC does
>is great, y'know. Neither is following the book to a T. [But the books'
>strengths are the way they're written, not the plot. Such language!]


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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 14:39:37 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Katie Pleasance <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jane Austin movies
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We're speaking Protestant ministers, not Catholic priests. Most ministers 
that I know are married.

Katie

At 05:27 PM 9/13/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>Katie Pleasance wrote:
>>the third son became a clergyman,
>>The daughters were expected to marry a first, second, or third son
>
>The clergyman?
>Cynthia Virtue


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OK, I can't keep quiet any longer.  Under "Eustace the Monk", that was 
our group with the trebuchet, and the chap with his back to the camera 
in the pale blue surcoat - that's my hubby!

On the subject of weather, Julian mentioned hot days at Gorey Castle.  I 
beg to mention cold, foggy days, sat in the topmost tower (many, many 
stairs) with a draft coming all the way up the walls and straight up my 
skirt where I sat in the window, as due to reconstruction work the 
floors currently do not quite meet the walls.  Brrrrrr.

Jean


julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk> wrote
>Dear Kimiko,
>[and any other interested Listers following this thread],
>if you would like to see photos of Gorey Castle, and our Companie "at 
>playe"; - I recommend that - [because our own webmaster is snowed-under 
>with his mundane job at the moment] - you go to www.greydragon.org,  - 
>subfile < "what's New" >;  - subfile < "Jersey Revels" >; - there are 
>lots of pictures of our Group, our camp, of the Castle, and of the rest 
>of the events at our recent 3-day-long Medieval Festival held in late-July.
>Our Guests, Master Terafan Greydragon and his Lady, have been able to 
>post their own pictures more quickly than our own Group's 
>mundanely-over-worked webmaster.
>In Service,
>Julian,
>in "olde" Jersey,
>15 miles off the French coast.
>
>Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com> wrote:
>At 06:24 PM 9/11/2004 +0100, you wrote:
>>OK, I'm beginning to lect ure,soI'llstophere.
>>But you did ask.
>>Julian,
>>in "olde" Jersey.
>
>
>Yes, I did ask, and I appreciate your reply. Thanks so much for sharing. I
>like learning new things like this.
>
>Kimiko
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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>
>---------------------------------
> ALL-NEW Yahoo! Messenger - all new features - even more fun!
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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Katie Pleasance wrote:

> We're speaking Protestant ministers, not Catholic priests. Most 
> ministers that I know are married.

Ah, sorry.  Thinking too far back.  (Episcopals are protestants, too, 
but they call 'em priests.)

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du Pré Argent

Register to vote!  Don't let that other guy win!
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Subject: [h-cost] Old movies, costume treasures (was Re: jane austin movies
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> This brings up something that's annoyed me a great deal with 1930s and

> 40s > movies--if you're setting a movie only 20 or 30 years in the
past, why don't  > you *$%#*%^! go to the used clothing store and get
REAL 20 or 30 year old clothing?! 
> 

Watch the 20's and 30's "historical" operettas like Jeannette MacDonald
(sp?)  Fast forward to the group scenes.  Ignore the stars in their
brand new stuff.  Look at the background players, especially when they
have things like "court" scenes.  You'll drool.  Amazing early Victorian
in two of the movies.  Wonderful other dresses as soon as you look past
the principals.

Also for those interested in opera historical outfits, they seemed to
use some amazing costumes from established productions.  

Great history snapshots.  Wonder if they're ever restore some of these
and transfer them to DVD?   Some silents are also treasure troves.

-Cat-


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: jane austin movies
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> Darling.....Norma Shear and Joan Crawford are NOT going to wear old
> clothes!!!!!
>

More importantly, clothing that was 10-30 years out of date during the time
that Norma Shearer, Joan Crawford, et.al. were stars, didn't fit the
(then)current fashionable and attractive aesthetic. Irene Castle wrote in
her autobiography, that while Fred Astaire willingly wanted copies of her
late husband's Vernon's dance wardrobe(tuxes, mind, but probably different
in cut and tailoring details from 30's tuxs), Ginger Rogers, with backup
from the studio, wanted nothing to do with copying Irene's 1910's wardrobe,
which had been cutting edge, as was Irene's hairstyles. And Irene was
willing to loan all of her clothing from the teens and twenties, photos, etc
to make it easier for the studio to reproduce her look and wardrobe.

Read Edward Maeder's "Hollywood and History" for a complete view of how the
then current aesthetics, budget's, star preferences, the Hays'
Office(morality cops), and even designer demands, influenced how history got
interpreted/misinterpreted in Hollywood from the 1920's to the early 1980's.

Current asethetics often ruined the designer's original concepts, because
the stars always had to look attractive to the audience and when a star like
Bette Davis, wanted to look more like the real Queen Elizabeth, caught
studio flak.

The costume budget or even what was available, especially during WWII,
influences what got made, what it was made of, and how much renting or even
reburbishing of current or rented costume stock.

The Hays office was obsessive over how much flesh a character could show.
Female clevage involved rules over what could and could not be shown, even
for historical films. Conversely, for all those ancient and Roman Empire set
epics, especially, modern bras and girdles underneath chiltons and togas
were de rigeur for actresses. Codpieces, even if historically accurate, were
an absolute no-no and male stars often had to undergo removal of chest hair.

Adrian, who had designed for a movie set in the Regency period, not long
before, insisted that he be allowed to design P&P as taking place in the
1830's.

Probably, if we look at historically set movies from the 1980's to the
present, we can still date when the movie was made on the basis of makeup
and hairstyles.  Maeder wrote that having the current aesthetic in movies
set in the past or future is unavoidable.

Cindy Abel

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Wouldn't real shearling be awfully heavy? If you go on ebay and search for 
'fur cutter' you can find damaged fur coats for very cheap.

The furrier that I mostly deal with says that opossum and squirrel would be 
the best fur for lining clothes. Rabbit sheds and turns ratty before long 
but is cheap. All the rest (except real ermine, which is horribly 
expensive, even for scraps) weighs too much for me to feel comfortable 
with. I've got some ancient mink coats and I'm amazed at how much they 
weigh. My all time favorite is fox, but I find it only appropriate for 
accent, as it is too fluffy to wear under another garment. But it sure is warm!

As always, my opinion,

Katie

At 12:46 PM 9/13/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>So, to clarify, _real_ shearling _is_ a good thing?  Here's hoping, since I
>plan to order enough for a gown lining in the next month! =}
>-E, impatiently waiting for pertinent books to arrive in the mail


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> I am three movies into the four movies that I bought and so far I 
> haven't seen a single character that I'd like as a friend -- that's 
> pretty ghastly.

I don't see that whether you _like_ the characters has anything to do 
with whether these are good films (or books).  I wouldn't want to live 
with most characters I've read about, or in most societies I've read 
about.   Part of the point of reading fiction is to get acquainted with 
people, societies, and places that are unfamiliar to you.

>
> Why do the women in the movies have to be so bloomin' inept at finding 
> a suitable husband? Because every single one of them is a shallow, 
> one-dimensional personality that has no real interests and as a result 
> they are themselves uninteresting. 

They're not modern women and men, but I wouldn't call them shallow and 
one-dimensional.

> The movies cause me to imagine the author as a self-pitying whiner who 
> revealed her frustrations by portraying a social system in which she 
> herself had not succeeded. 

??  All Jane Austen's heroines find good husbands.  For Austen and her 
contemporaries that _is_ a happy ending.

I think you're taking Austen's humor about her characters' foibles much 
too seriously.  I don't, for example, see Mr. Bennet as being a 
"psychological eunich" whose "endlessly nagging wife" makes his life 
unbearable.  He seems to be contented with farming his estate (which 
apparently he does well), reading in his library, and talking to his 
older daughters. He's long since come to terms with the fact that he 
married a women for looks rather than brains--and considering he has 
five children, it doesn't seem to have stopped him from enjoying her sex 
appeal.  His wife likes and respects him; he doesn't make fun of her in 
ways that she notices.  It's quite like the marriage of Charlotte Lucas 
and Mr.Collins.  Charlotte has accepted the only proposal she's ever 
likely to get. But it's a suitable, comfortable marriage for a woman in 
her social position.  While Mr.Collins is sometimes tiresome, Charlotte 
cheerfully looks on the good side and enjoys running her household.

For Austen romantic marriage is an ideal; but a marriage of 
companionship between two people dedicated to making it work (no matter 
how unlike they are) is acceptable and at times quite sensible.

Austen's own social success (after her first fiance died) may lie in her 
having the freedom (because of her borther's support) to reject a second 
suitor instead of being forced to marry him for money.


> I hope that I find that I am wrong when I read the books. BTW, I came 
> to this conclusion *before* this thread began.
>
>
While the BBC renditions of Austen's books are not perfect, I doubt you 
will like the characters or the society in the books if you don't like 
them/it in the films.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com



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>As I've been watching the movies, drooling over some of the dresses, it
>constantly comes to my mind that the author must have been a horribly
>bitter and unhappy woman. 
>
Judging from her books and the biography I've read, Jane Austen may have 
felt somewhat intellectually apart from her neighbors and to have felt 
that women did not get an entirely fair lot in life.  But she seems to 
have been cheerful, overall contented, and much loved by her family.

>She
>desperately wanted to climb to a higher social class and failed at the game
>of getting a good (rich + personally acceptable) husband and became a
>shrill critic of the system.
>  
>
I think you're seeing Jane Austen in an overly modern light.  In the 
18th and early 19th centuries, not only marrying well but getting favors 
from people who had power and money was a standard way of getting ahead 
in the world.  Indeed, often necessary.  For example, Fanny's brother 
William is an excellent and enthusiastic sailor in the British Navy. But 
he is unable to get promoted to lieutenant until Fanny's suitor Henry 
Crawford gets his own uncle, an admiral, to promote William.  Or rather, 
to persuade the right other people in power to sign the right 
paperwork.  Sir Thomas Bertram pushes Fanny to marry Henry partly 
because of what Henry can do for her brothers' careers (they are all in 
the Navy), saying that he did not know when his own influence as a 
landowner would have been able to do anything for William.

That's how careers worked,  how getting funding for arts and sciences 
projects worked, how getting a lot of things worked. Hobnobbing with  
superior classes was not just a matter of getting invited to fancier 
parties.  Nor was hobnobbing with people of your own class or even 
inferiors.  For another example, when Mrs. Dashwood and her two 
daughters are made unwelcome in their former family home by her stepson 
and his wife, her cousin Sir John Barton (if I have his name right) 
offers them a cottage on his property.  If I recall, he's Mrs. 
Dashwood's second cousin and they've never met him, or at least haven't 
seen him for years.  But people thought in terms of wide family and 
social networks. This cousin of their own social class was in a position 
to do them a valuable favor--and was himself very happy to have them 
move into his neighborhood.

>Katie: Thanks for your observations. Jane did have a perfectly acceptible
>proposal of marriage in her twenties, but after literally mulling it over
>overnight, refused the offer the following morning, realizing she did not
>love the man in question. 
>  
>
Jane Austen also had a proposal some years earlier, from a man she 
loved.  She accepted, but her suitor died suddenly while arranging the 
engagement with his parents.  One theory is that she still loved her 
first suitor so much (though dead) that she could not marry the second. 

>er
>time. Did she see enough "bad" marriages to distrust the institution.
>
That's assuming Jane Austen had lots of marital choices.  I don't think 
very many choices were open to a woman who was a "lady," but had little 
income--particularly after she was 30.  Options and the lack of them  is 
largely what Austen's books are about. She had two proposals that are 
known o. She accepted one and rejected the other.  That doesn't say to 
me that she was avoiding marriage.

>Women were always under pressure to marry "up" or at least
>"horizontally" on the social scale. 
>
So were men.  One of Jane Austen's early suitors was sent away by his 
mother to stop the relationship from going any further, because Jane 
wasn't a good enough match. 

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com


>  
>
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Even smaller world. I'm KB3JXW, hubby is K3DCS, and my boss (who also does
the NYC marathon, in the lead vehicle no less) in N4RH.

Carolann Schmitt




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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Katie Pleasance <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: jane austin movies
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I have the one that I have stars David Rintoul. I have never seen a Jane 
Austin movie before nor read any of her books.

Katie


>BTW, when people mention the BBC Pride and Prejudice do you mean the 
>recent Colin Firth as Mr. Darcy one or the 1980 David Rintoul as Mr. Darcy 
>one? I love the latter more than the former Much as I like Colin Firth, it 
>seemed a bit too modern in sensibility. But how about the costumes? Which 
>version had more authentic costumes?
>- Hope


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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabeth I and smallpox
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<snip>
> >I think Alison Weir's biography of Elizabeth mentioned that she wore
> a
> >mixture of alum and egg white from a fairly young age to hide her
> >unfashionably dark complexion.
>
> Dark complexion? Wasn't she a redhead?

Well looking at her early pictures e.g. her coronation or her 1546 portrait
by William Scrots I'd say she was a strawberry blonde, I really don't think
egg whites and alum would give you a pale complexion (not that I've
experimented) the egg whites might make you look shiny but I don't know
about lightening the complexion.
Elizabeth

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Extinct diseases
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> But what about the days before "germ theory"? In those days disease was
> considered "a punishment from God" as much as anything else. Would they
> have conceived that a sick person's clothes could carry disease? Do you
> think that QEI burned all her clothes after recovering from
smallpox?<snip>
> Katie

Even before germ theory people knew that disease could be carried on
clothing, I don't have any firm references here but people were aware that
things other than the judgement of God could cause disease, you can't do
anything about God's judgement, you can however do something about whatever
it is you are doing wrong. The ancient Israelites worked out that mixing
meat and milk was a good way to get sick. The Crusaders threw rotting animal
carcasses into castles they were besieging knowing it would cause disease.
People could also work out that things that smelled bad (raw sewage, rotten
meat etc.) tended to make you sick, they made the logical direct leap that
smells caused disease and we know better now but people have generally been
good at working out cause & effect. If they saw that the people who
inherited an infected person's clothes died of the same symptoms they could
work out that something was being transmitted via the clothes they probably
would have put it down to the smell of death/disease but it still results in
people not wanting the dead person's clothes.
Elizabeth
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
Elizabeth Beaumont              Elizabeth Walpole
             in                         OR                 in
Politarchopolis, Lochac        Canberra, Australia
             ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au

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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 2004 12:06 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Extinct Diseases


> It is notoriously the case that one of the most effective, and widely
used,
> early methods of bringing down the Indian population, in both North and
> South America, was to give them blankets infected with smallpox. The
> epidemics that resulted decimated many of the native tribes.
>
> Lloyd Mitchell (for Kathleen)

here in Australia the Aboriginal population had been so isolated things like
the common cold quickly developed into serious life threatening illnesses
that wiped out huge numbers, without even a deliberate attempt on the part
of the European colonists. Australia never had smallpox, there was a special
quarantine station set up from the mid 19th century when a lot of free
settlers started arriving, all the passengers on a ship were checked and if
anybody had a serious infectious disease (e.g. smallpox) the ship's
passengers were quarantined until the incubation period had passed with no
new cases, if there was a new case the set period started again.
Elizabeth
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
Elizabeth Beaumont              Elizabeth Walpole
             in                         OR                 in
Politarchopolis, Lochac        Canberra, Australia
             ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au

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> Even before germ theory people knew that disease could be carried on
> clothing, I don't have any firm references here but people were aware
> that things other than the judgement of God could cause disease, you
> can't do anything about God's judgement, you can however do something
> about whatever it is you are doing wrong. 

Some of the earliest European printed textiles were made so that poor 
parishes could send their priests into plague infested areas and be 
able to afford to burn the vestments when they came out of the area. 

The clothes were part of the "miasma" theory of disease. The miasma 
clung to clothes (and was also more concentrated at night which is 
why night air was supposed to be bad for you.)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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Yeah? I think you guys keep saying that to scare off the tourists! When 
Jane and I were over there 2 years ago, it didn't rain once!
Okay, so I saw a bare handful of raindrops my first day in Dublin, but 
that was it!
Amazing humidity, though!
--sue, from (usually) much drier MT

Teddy wrote:

> 
> Margo, you and Wayne come over and visit me one summer and I'll show you
> what it's like over here.
> 
> A "lovely summer evening" in England can often mean that the rain is
> nice and warm....
>

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....is the name of the book about Lady Montagu's role in combating smallpox:

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0525947361/qid=1095125026/sr=1-2/ref=sr_1_2/104-0655581-4402355

Obligatory costume content: Lady Montagu was so impressed by Turkish
clothing during her husband's ambassadorship that she adopted a kind
of pseudo-Turkish clothing style - there is a painting of her in the
book wearing what appears to be a drapey-Empire waisted dress (ca.
1720s).

Allison T.
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Yeah, silly! Anglican, not Catholic! ;-)
--sue

Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> Katie Pleasance wrote:
> 
>> the third son became a clergyman,
> 
> 
>> The daughters were expected to marry a first, second, or third son
> 
> 
> The clergyman?  :)
> 

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Elizabeth I and smallpox
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There are several diaries and letters home from foreigners in England
who remarked that the English women prefered the shiny complexion from
the egg whites.  Most Continental Europeans prefered the more matte
look from powders.  In fact, the most popular powder came from Spain. 
(I can't say I've ever noticed a pale complexion in a Spanish portrait,
but I certainly haven't seen them all.)
Egg whites certainly wouldn't give you a pale complexion, they were the
"glue" that kept the powder on your face.  The alum would have had the
lightening properties, as indicated in the Merriam-Webster dictionary
"Common alum is the double sulphate of aluminium and potassium. It is
white, transparent, very astringent, and crystallizes easily in
octahedrons."
~Margaret

> Well looking at her early pictures e.g. her coronation or her 1546 
portrait by William Scrots I'd say she was a strawberry blonde, I
really don't think egg whites and alum would give you a pale complexion
(not that I've experimented) the egg whites might make you look shiny
but I don't know about lightening the complexion.
Elizabeth


		
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Extinct diseases
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 22:48:34 -0400
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On Monday 13 September 2004 9:14 am, Sue Clemenger wrote:
[snip]

> My favorite historical novel that deals with this sort of topic is "The
> Doomsday Book," by Cynthia? Willis.

It's "Connie Willis", Sue, and I loved the book.  My recollection of the 
disease plot is that there was an influenza epidemic in England right before 
the plague gets there, and that epidemic effectively weakened the disease 
resistence of the populace, resulting in more deaths than might otherwise 
have been the case.  


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 22:43:38 -0400
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jane Austen movies was: Austin movies
From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
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The English major must speak: Jane Austen. With an "e". 

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From: "Molly Boone" <Rampant_Peacock@comcast.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Court Garb in hot weather (WAS:current and future work?)
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 20:33:40 -0700
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 wholeheartedly agree here.  The big things that I run into every year at
fair are:

1) stay hydrated - not just water but the salts and minerals you are
sweating off  Pickles are an awesome thing for replacing liquid, salt, and
electrolyte minerals.

2) stay cool - fast temperature drops on pulse points when you are too warm
already will drop you faster than anything else and it will shock your
system into heat exhaustion.  If you need to drop your temperature and are
unsure, soak a rag in skin temperature water and hit your pulse points with
that first the liquid on skin evaporation will be the first start in
dropping core temperature

3) build smart - Fans are a part of the costumes for good reason, have a
place you can drop a layer or can other wise break in the shade to let your
temperature drop.  Hats need to be removable.  Also I line my corset in
flannel, in 101 degree dry heat (Eastern Washington desert) I do fine all
day in BLACK because the undergarments work with not against my body
cooling.

4) stay aware of yourself and others - the best experiences I've had in
faire are watching people pull together so everyone plays and has fun and
watches out for each other.  Water bearers are a godsend.  Don't be offended
if someone asks you when you last peed.  IF your body is releasing liquid
your doing pretty good.

5) play it safe - if it starts getting to be too much stop and relax.

Remember my experiences are not only playing Elizabethan noble but also
working with people in full plate armor.  I can remember a show we did one
weekend in 99 degree humid heat that we were literally dropping people out
after each show due to 1) heat and 2)flu.  I was the only one sick that made
all 6 shows and a lot of it was being very careful to take it easy an stay
as cool as possible.  That same weekend we had  1 actor drop - literally -
with heat exhaustion due to not replacing minerals and 3 Knights literally
sizzle skin on their armor.  Total for the weekend starting with 40 actors
we finished with a total of just under 20 from attrition.  The troop has 7
people we watch closely because they have all heat exhausted before and once
you do it the first time you become more susceptible to the problem.

Happy playing

Molly

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Theflamingneedle@aol.com
Sent: Friday, September 10, 2004 7:19 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Court Garb in hot weather (WAS:current and future
work?)


In a message dated 9/10/04 4:16:31 AM Central Daylight Time, Teddy@mdx.ac.uk
writes:
Avoid synthetic fibres.,,, thick/heavy natural fibres are often much
cooler to wear than thin synthetics which don't let your skin breath.

This is, in my opinion, the number one Golden Rule for costuming in any warm
climate.  Even a blend that is *mostly* natural but *some* synthetic, will
cook you compared to all natural fibers.  Avoid modern broadcloths for
shirts and
chemises; they're 65/35.  Go with muslin or all-cotton, or pure silk if you
can afford it and want to.

Another tip is to build/develop your costume so that there's as little
layering on your forearms and neck as possible.  Pulse points such as the
neck,
forearms and backs of the legs can be cooled and thus cool off your whole
body;
holding a cool compress or ice to the inside of your wrists works miracles
at
cooling off your bloodstream.

While it is definitely important to drink water, it is equally important to
EAT.  Every year at faire, we have young ladies go down right and left, who
protest to our scolding, "but I drank water ALL DAY!"  You have to replace
more
than just your body's water; you also have to replace the minerals and
nutrients that are depleted through sweat.

Take vitamins (daily, not just on faire mornings), try to intersperse
something like gatorade that will replenish electrolytes, and eat proteins
and
all-natural carbs like fruits (bananas are excellent, they replace your
potassium).
Breads, sugars and other starchy carbs will not help; they'll make the
situation worse.  Go for a turkey leg rather than a stuffed baked potato.


"Education is a progressive discovery of our own ignorance." -Will Durant
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jane Austin movies
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 12:21:41 +1000
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Katie Pleasance" <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 2004 3:49 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jane Austin movies


> As I've been watching the movies, drooling over some of the dresses, it
> constantly comes to my mind that the author must have been a horribly
> bitter and unhappy woman. What you say about her life explains it. She
> desperately wanted to climb to a higher social class and failed at the
game
> of getting a good (rich + personally acceptable) husband and became a
> shrill critic of the system.
> Did she prefer dramatic impoverishment over the option of marrying
somebody
> who lacked the social / financial status that she seems to have craved?
<snip> Katie

Well I don't see her as bitter about not getting a rich husband, I see her
more as angry that she didn't have another option. Jane Austen does have a
lot of stereotypes and you aren't actually supposed to like a lot of her
characters, she didn't like them herself. e.g. In P&P the only characters
you're supposed to like are Lizzy, Jane &  Mr. Darcy & probably Mr. Bennett,
& Mr. Bingley. You aren't always even supposed to like the heroine e.g in
Mansfield Park a lot of scholars think she was using Fanny to parody her
society's ideal of the passive woman.
I've just been watching Regency house party (another one of those history
meets reality TV shows from the BBC) very pretty costumes and you can see
them in their underwear. One inaccuracy I noticed was the ladies companion
had a corset with a front closing busk, I think they cheated because she
didn't have her own maid to dress her. Anyway back to the point after
reading through the list of the dead in a reproduction of the Times from the
day when the news of the battle of Trafalgar reached England. One of the
women made the point that with the Napoleonic wars at the time Jane's
situation as a spinster was quite possibly not that uncommon, rather like
the 20th century situation after the 1st & 2nd world wars a generation of
men had died and a generation of women were left without a possible husband.
IIRC her sister Cassandra was engaged to a soldier who died on the
continent.  In the normal course of things the numbers are fairly evenly
distributed both sexes may die young of disease, 1/5 of women died in
childbirth (another fact courtesy of Regency house party) and men were (and
still are) more likely to die in accidents (often doing stupid or violent
things, e.g.. duelling) when a war comes along it upsets the balance.
Well that was at least partly on topic (I'm getting better *g*)
Elizabeth
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
Elizabeth Beaumont              Elizabeth Walpole
             in                         OR                 in
Politarchopolis, Lochac        Canberra, Australia
             ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au

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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <BD6B6C0F.11D58%gailscott@eos.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: jane austin movies
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 11:25:27 +1000
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<snip> Back to costume content -- has anyone seen the old black and white
"P&P"
> with ... oh darn it, who are they? Greer Garson, maybe, and one of the
> Barrymores? It's a real hoot, and the costumes are hilarious. A bizarre
> mixture of 1930s or 40s Hollywood and Regency.
>
> Gail Finke

Yes, it was so funny, I mean IMO the fashions of the 1830s look ridiculous
anyway, but the way they distorted the plot was even more ridiculous. The
one I really remember is that Lady Catherine's visit to demand that Lizzy
promise to refuse Darcy's proposal, was actually a plot hatched between
Darcy and Lady Catherine so Darcy could know Lizzy's true feelings.
So utterly ridiculous you had to laugh, though a Jane Austen purist may have
been tempted to cry.
Elizabeth
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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             in                         OR                 in
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             ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jane Austen movies was: Austin movies
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lauren Walker" <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 2004 12:43 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jane Austen movies was: Austin movies


>
> The English major must speak: Jane Austen. With an "e".

I think that may be a result of a spell checker, mine also wants to change
Austen to Austin. This is why you can't rely exclusively on spell checkers.
Elizabeth
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             in                         OR                 in
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             ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au

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> There are several diaries and letters home from foreigners in England
> who remarked that the English women prefered the shiny complexion from
> the egg whites.  Most Continental Europeans prefered the more matte
> look from powders.  In fact, the most popular powder came from Spain.
> (I can't say I've ever noticed a pale complexion in a Spanish portrait,
> but I certainly haven't seen them all.)
> Egg whites certainly wouldn't give you a pale complexion, they were the
> "glue" that kept the powder on your face.  The alum would have had the
> lightening properties, as indicated in the Merriam-Webster dictionary
> "Common alum is the double sulphate of aluminium and potassium. It is
> white, transparent, very astringent, and crystallizes easily in
> octahedrons."
> ~Margaret

Thanks for that info I was wondering about what the Alum would do.
Elizabeth
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             ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au

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Subject: Re: Viking brooches WAS: [h-cost] current and future work?
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perhaps you should try one of the danish museums, they often have replicas for sale, unfortunately it is mostly gold, silver and amber as far as i remember, been a while since i last went to a viking museum.
Here is one e-shop, from the vikingship museeum in Denmark http://secom.dynamicweb.dk/
Tania

Lena Strid <lstrid@mglarc.com> wrote:
I wrote:
>> - Make a 10th century Hedeby/Křstrup apron dress so I would more blend in
>> with the Hiberno-Norse group I sometimes play with. (hmmm, need to get
>> tortoise shell brooches as well...)

Cathy replied:
> If you need ideas where to look for tortoise brooches, I have a list of 
favorite sites you may find useful...

Yes, please... I'm aiming for a southern Scandinavian look, and most
merchants (IIRC) seem to favour the Norwegian brooches. There's got to be
someone out there that makes replicas of Danish/south Swedish tortoise shell
brooches - I hope.

/Lena


=================================================
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2 Killiney View Tel: 01-2300433
Albert Road Lower Fax: 01-2300865
Glenageary e-mail: archaeology@mglarc.com
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=================================================

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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 00:16:08 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jane Austin movies
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At 12:21 PM 9/14/2004 +1000, you wrote:
>One inaccuracy I noticed was the ladies companion
>had a corset with a front closing busk, I think they cheated because she
>didn't have her own maid to dress her.


Would there be a problem with the ladies companion wearing the front 
closing busk?

If it is how would she lace herself into it; well I witnessed another 
member of this list (Kendra, you still here?) last year at Costume College 
put herself into a Victorian corset, front busked, and lace herself into 
the corset rather nicely. No help from her roommates at all. I was stunned 
that this could be done, and so easily too (I think she is well practiced). 
But while I am fond of Victorian things, I have yet gotten around to making 
much from this time period.

If there was a different inaccuracy, then ignore the above and please 
explain the inaccuracy you saw.

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Owner ~ DreamTime Studios
http://www.dreamtime-studios.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Court Garb in hot weather (WAS:current and future work?)
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At 08:33 PM 9/13/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>Also I line my corset in
>flannel, in 101 degree dry heat (Eastern Washington desert) I do fine all
>day in BLACK because the undergarments work with not against my body
>cooling.


Hi Molly,

How does flannel help the body? I am to switch to linen linings because I 
understand linen wicks sweat (just did this for my husband's doublet and he 
is happier in the heat wearing all black velveteen), but I hadn't heard 
anything before about flannel. Is that cotton flannel?

Thanks,

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Owner ~ DreamTime Studios
http://www.dreamtime-studios.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

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Subject: [h-cost] I'm Still Here
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I haven't posted in a while, and just thought I'd let everyone know I am 
still here. Kyle and I are getting a divorce and so live has been pretty 
hectic. I'm still glancing at the list and just haven't had the time to 
look everything over. I'll get to it eventually.

Thanks,

Brandy 

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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: iron lungs,  smallpox
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Lady Mary Wortley Montagu introduced inoculation with smallpox itself,
but people were understandably nervous of deliberately infecting
themselves. It was when Jenner discovered that cowpox, a mild illness,
conferred immunity to smallpox that the idea really took off.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby
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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jane Austen movies
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Bjarne wrote:
>My two cents also.
>I was quite surprised when i watched Sense and Sensabillity, that the
>widow got nothing after her husband, and her daughters neither. It
>never accured to me that it only was the eldest son who got the whole
>thing.

Actually, in the book Jane Austen explains that Mr. Dashwood had
inherited his house from a rich relation on condition that he leave it
to his son from his first marriage. The old man had taken a fancy to the
boy.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jane Austin movies
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 19:28:49 +1000
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kimiko Small" <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 2004 5:16 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jane Austin movies


> At 12:21 PM 9/14/2004 +1000, you wrote:
> >One inaccuracy I noticed was the ladies companion
> >had a corset with a front closing busk, I think they cheated because she
> >didn't have her own maid to dress her.
>
>
> Would there be a problem with the ladies companion wearing the front
> closing busk?
>
> If it is how would she lace herself into it;

Well busks that act like a set of hooks & eyes (as opposed to the older form
of a straight piece of wood/metal/horn or other similarly stiff material)
were invented around the 1840s IIRC. Before that corsets were pulled on over
the head and then laced tight in the back which was what all the higher
ranking ladies did in this show. This show was supposed to be set in 1805
(IIRC) several decades before the invention of the front closing busk. It
seems this young lady didn't lace herself into her corset but relied on a
passing maid to give her a hand when they had a spare minute. I know I can
lace myself into my 16th century corset, which only opens in the back, very
easily, but a regency corset may be more difficult.
Elizabeth
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
Elizabeth Beaumont              Elizabeth Walpole
             in                         OR                 in
Politarchopolis, Lochac        Canberra, Australia
             ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jane Austin movies
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<snip>This show was supposed to be set in 1805
<snip>
Whoops, that should have been 1815 & the battle of Waterloo not 1805 & the
battle of Trafalgar. Sorry.
Elizabeth
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
Elizabeth Beaumont              Elizabeth Walpole
             in                         OR                 in
Politarchopolis, Lochac        Canberra, Australia
             ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Wet weather garb/English Summers (WAS: Court
	Garbin	hot weather)
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The main thing about British weather is that it's unpredictable (hence
the popularity of "talking about the weather" - there's usually
something good or bad worth commenting on)!

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> mooncat@in-tch.com 14/09/2004 02:29:33 >>>
Yeah? I think you guys keep saying that to scare off the tourists! When

Jane and I were over there 2 years ago, it didn't rain once!
Okay, so I saw a bare handful of raindrops my first day in Dublin, but

that was it!
Amazing humidity, though!
--sue, from (usually) much drier MT

Teddy wrote:

> 
> Margo, you and Wayne come over and visit me one summer and I'll show
you
> what it's like over here.
> 
> A "lovely summer evening" in England can often mean that the rain is
> nice and warm....
>

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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jane Austen movies
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Well, I recently read a life of Jane Austen and I certainly don't have
the impression that she was embittered or "desperately wanted to climb
to a higher social class". She was a kind, humorous person much loved by
her many nephews and nieces. Of course, as others have commented, it was
considered prudent and sensible to look for an advantageous marriage and
to make use of influential family connections.

She herself described Emma as "a character no-one but myself will much
like."

I'm not sure, though, that Mr. Bennett is as contented as Fran
suggests. He avoids the company of his silly wife and younger daughters,
and realises too late that the scandal over Lydia might have been
avoided if he had kept a closer eye on them.

Personally, I like the Ang Lee "Sense and Sensibility". I'm not a fan
of Hugh Grant, but I thought it was clever of Emma Thompson to have
Edward endear himself to Elinor by his kindness to her little sister.
(For those who haven't read the book, Margaret is older than she is in
the film and you have to take the author's word for it that Edward is a
lovable man.)

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Wet weather garb/English Summers (WAS:
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 2004 5:43 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Wet weather garb/English Summers (WAS: CourtGarbin
hot weather)


> The main thing about British weather is that it's unpredictable (hence
> the popularity of "talking about the weather" - there's usually
> something good or bad worth commenting on)!

It's a common saying in Michigan that if you don't like the weather, wait
five minutes..it will change.
And it's true. Hence my love of the month of March in all its extremism.

Dianne
>
> Kate Bunting
> Library, University of Derby
>


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Subject: [h-cost] lacing oneself in a victorian corset,
	was Jane Asten movies.
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> If it is how would she lace herself into it; well I witnessed another
> member of this list (Kendra, you still here?) last year at Costume College
> put herself into a Victorian corset, front busked, and lace herself into
> the corset rather nicely. No help from her roommates at all. I was stunned
> that this could be done, and so easily too (I think she is well
practiced).
> But while I am fond of Victorian things, I have yet gotten around to
making
> much from this time period.

Yep. I just did so this evening:) 1880s corset straight from corsets's and
Crinoline's as I wanted to see how the original pattern would work for me
rather than scaling it out.
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/historical/1880underwear.htm


It works better than my scaled versions. I think because it's larger in the
bust which then gives me a real bosom rather than flattening out what I do
have.

It does need to be nipped in a tiny bit though as I'm wearing it a tad
higher than it was meant to (adjusted lacing accordingly) to get a bit more
coverage for when I wear it in a theatrical setting. In other words with no
chemise.

It's rather easy one you work out the logistics to self lace, and I have
really arthritic hands so if it's ok for me...

If you have it partially pulled at the back it's a big help, and if you have
the loops at the waist it's infinitely easier;)

you pull the loops a little so you can bring the ends round to the front,
and swap hands, so you get a cross over at the back. When you pull then you
are pulling in the right direction the laces need to go.

I then hold the laces with one hand wringgle one arm up the back and start
working the laces seperately, keeping tension in the loops that are getting
longer and longer.

I then have to get someone to tie them in the back, or I just knot them at
the front.

I can imagine this would be much harder to do with regency stays as they are
longer and go up higher. It's still possible but difficult.

michaela
http://costumes.glittersweet.com


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Status: RO

This brings to mind a morning at Pennsic one year....

The rain was falling sideways and had begun the evening before, but 
that was not enough to turn us from our path.  The muddy ground pulled 
at our boots and dragged at hems of our wool gowns. We weary and hungry 
but strove ever forward to our goal. Finally, there before us-The 
Merchant Area.

Many of the merchants were still closed but we were undaunted, knowing 
that not all cowered behind dripping canvas walls. As we approached one 
sodden tent, a passing fighter called out.

"What are you ladies doing out in this weather?"

My friend and I exchanged a look. I shrugged and called back.

"Weather? This is a fine Scottish morning, lad!"

Laurie


On Tuesday, September 14, 2004, at 03:22 AM, 
h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:

>
> Yeah? I think you guys keep saying that to scare off the tourists! When
> Jane and I were over there 2 years ago, it didn't rain once!
> Okay, so I saw a bare handful of raindrops my first day in Dublin, but
> that was it!
> Amazing humidity, though!
> --sue, from (usually) much drier MT
>
> Teddy wrote:
>
>>
>> Margo, you and Wayne come over and visit me one summer and I'll show 
>> you
>> what it's like over here.
>>
>> A "lovely summer evening" in England can often mean that the rain is
>> nice and warm....
>>

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Old movies, costume treasures
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Status: RO

Watch the 20's and 30's "historical" operettas like Jeannette MacDonald
(sp?)  Fast forward to the group scenes.  Ignore the stars in their
brand new stuff.  Look at the background players, especially when they
have things like "court" scenes.  You'll drool.  Amazing early
Victorian
in two of the movies.  Wonderful other dresses as soon as you look
past
the principals.
<snip>
-Cat-
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
I remember reading somewhere that there used to be extras who
specialized in 'fancy dress', and even provided their own costumes. 
Could it be that some of these were actual garments preserved from the
Victorian era?

Catherine

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Status: RO

It's unpredictable here, too, but on the drier/hotter end of the scale, 
although not as bad as the desert states/areas like AZ, SoCal, etc.
Just this past weekend, I went to a camping event (SCA Coronation), 
where we had very pleasant temperatures for this far into September--no 
frost at night, which was freakin' amazing, and somewhere in the 80s 
during the days.  I got a bit too hot because instead of packing my okay 
linen gown and shift, like a good, heat-sensitive girl, I packed one of 
my spiffier ItalianRens, which happens to be made of cotton.  (when 
*will* I learn???)
--sue

Kate M Bunting wrote:
> The main thing about British weather is that it's unpredictable (hence
> the popularity of "talking about the weather" - there's usually
> something good or bad worth commenting on)!

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] shearling wool
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 09:10:48 -0500
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I think I probably will opt for the more expensive lambskin. I was planning
to split the skin of the shearling (the sample I looked at made it seem easy
enough, but I've never really done that before) but... I think I'd rather
pay the extra. I'm fine with heavy, and I'm fine with however the fur
behaves; the whole idea is to find out HOW an accurate sort of fur really
DOES behave as a lining on my favorite style of gown!

(I wonder if Ophelia would have been wearing a fur-lined garment?)

I wouldn't mind using old fur coats to do this, but I'm quite sure I'd need
at least two or more coats with well matched fur for the gown I have in
mind--it may happen some day, but I'm too impatient!

-E House
Liberty in Our Lifetime - www.freestateproject.org
Coming Soon - http://www.seamcheckers.com

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> Lady Mary Wortley Montagu introduced inoculation with smallpox itself,
> but people were understandably nervous of deliberately infecting
> themselves. It was when Jenner discovered that cowpox, a mild illness,
> conferred immunity to smallpox that the idea really took off.

It took off very slowly unfortunately. Jenner had discovered that the 
reason that milkmaids tended to have such beautiful complexions 
(because they were unmarked) was because they usually got cowpox. So, 
he tried it.

However, it turned out that people were just as wary about that idea 
as many current people are about new immunizations. In fact, when I 
did a lecture a few years back about the need for all the doctors in 
our community to work together to get the immunization rate up, I 
used that as an example of the rumors and fears that can cause people 
to not get immunized. (I also gave a timeline on when various 
immunizations were introduced and how the diseases declined 
afterward. I wish I could find the thing. It took me about 2 weeks to 
track down all the information on it and I really don't want to have 
to go through that all again. Of course, that was just before we 
moved and then moved again so who knows where it ended up!)

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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-----------
Message: 7
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 19:26:40 -0400
From: "Carolann Schmitt" <cschmitt@genteelarts.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Fwd: Solar powered jacket
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Even smaller world. I'm KB3JXW, hubby is K3DCS, and my boss (who also does
the NYC marathon, in the lead vehicle no less) in N4RH.

Carolann Schmitt
----------------

Another ham here! I'm N1QIT, my husband is KD1SM, my kids are N1QDZ & 
N1QLV, and the son-in-law is KB1HBH (he had to get the license to make 
things legal ;) ).  The granddaughter (not quite 4) is a bit young to 
get a license yet, but she is fascinated by the sound of code.  There 
are many possibilities in that jacket.

Jeanine in MA



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> 3) build smart - Fans are a part of the costumes for good reason, 
> have a
> place you can drop a layer or can other wise break in the shade to 
> let your
> temperature drop.  Hats need to be removable.  Also I line my corset 
> in
> flannel, in 101 degree dry heat (Eastern Washington desert) I do 
> fine all
> day in BLACK because the undergarments work with not against my body
> cooling.

Another thing that works--line your coif or cap in cotton flannel and
soak it. It will help keep you cool for hours.

 
> 4) stay aware of yourself and others - the best experiences I've had 
> in faire are watching people pull together so everyone plays and has 
> fun and watches out for each other.  Water bearers are a godsend. 
Don't be 
> offended if someone asks you when you last peed.  IF your body is
releasing 
> liquid your doing pretty good.

And if you notice that your pee is getting darker, it can be a sign that
you're getting dehydrated.


Arlys

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Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> The clergyman?  :)

Yes, dear... don't forget, this is England we're talking about. The
clergymen there married, or most of them did. There was still a tradition of
celebacy among the Anglicans, but lots of them got married. The horrible Mr.
Collins from Pride & Prejudice (played so wonderfully in the recent A&E
version) was a clergyman, for example. Now, my clergymen don't get married,
in any era, so I understand the confusion.

Gail Finke

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At 05:50 PM 9/13/2004, Carolann Schmitt wrote:

>Even smaller world. I'm KB3JXW, hubby is K3DCS, and my boss (who also does
>the NYC marathon, in the lead vehicle no less) in N4RH.

I'm N2KYE, Frank is KB4CYC (and is radio mile captain for mile 20). About 
the time I got my ticket, Steve Mendelsson (W2ML, ex WA2DHF) was active in 
the same digital-mode-intense club (Radio Amateur Telecommunication 
Society, aka RATS) as Frank, and often attended the meetings. It's been 
almost "traditional" to hand Steve a lunch bag as he passes by, hanging 
half out of the police cruiser...

Hmm. This will be my 13th Marathon in 15 years as a ham...


73,


Brenda F. Bell
webwarren@earthlink.net 

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In a message dated 9/14/2004 5:30:45 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au writes:

> I know I can
> lace myself into my 16th century corset, which only opens in the back, very
> easily, but a regency corset may be more difficult.
> 

And I would think that an early 19th century corset would not be tight laced 
like later Victorian versions. This....and spiral lacing, would enable someone 
to more easily get it done up "correctly" by oneself.
But in a house full of servants and/or siblings there are plenty of people to 
help you get laced up. It certainly would be no big deal since corsets were 
common. Compare it to getting your dress zipped up the back today.
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>Well, I recently read a life of Jane Austen and I certainly don't have
>the impression that she was embittered
>
No.  But even if Jane Austen _had_ been embittered and unhappy, I don't 
see how that would invalidate her books in any way.

Look at Charlotte Bronte, who wrote much more emotionally about feelings 
of restriction and rebellion at being forced into a middle-class woman's 
role and having no money.  I haven't read a full bio, but I gather 
Bronte was a clergyman's daughter just hanging on financially, and had 
to work as a teacher herself.  She (and most or all of her siblings) 
also had TB.  Perhaps Bronte was embittered--but so what?  It doesn't 
lower the quality of her books or make her message any less meaningful.


>
>I'm not sure, though, that Mr. Bennett is as contented as Fran
>suggests. He avoids the company of his silly wife and younger daughters,
>and realises too late that the scandal over Lydia might have been
>avoided if he had kept a closer eye on them.
>
>
>  
>
Lydia's elopement makes Mr. Bennet genuinely unhappy and guilty; but he 
tells Elizabeth the impression will pass soon enough.  Jane Austen seems 
to have felt that a sensible person made the best of not only whatever 
he or she was given, but the best of whatever he or she had screwed up.  
If Mr. Bennet had married a silly but pretty woman, he has the 
consolations of her beauty (at least when she was younger, and Mrs. 
Bennet may well still be a good-looking woman of her age), his country 
house and estate, fishing, books, and his favorite daughters.  If he 
didn't respect his neighbors (and younger daughters!) he got fun out of 
gently satirizing them.  If Lydia eloped with "one of the most worthless 
men in England," at least she was gotten respectably married with almost 
no damage to her reputation.  Instead of eventually being dumped by 
Wickham and becoming a public prostitute, the likely alternative.  
Wickham is paid off with almost no financial cost to Mr. Bennet, which 
he was worried about. 

And, around the same time Mr. Bennet's two oldest daughters get engaged 
to extremely eligible (almost perfect) young men.   One bad marriage 
(which is still better than no marriage) is balanced by two good ones.

I doubt the incident with Lydia changed him much.  Note that after 
marriage Elizabeth and Jane had Kitty for long visits and took her in 
hand to make her "less ignorant, less irritable, and less insipid."  In 
other words they didn't feel she'd improve by staying at home.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com






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In a message dated 9/14/2004 11:50:55 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
fran@lavoltapress.com writes:

> I haven't read a full bio, but I gather 
> Bronte was a clergyman's daughter

My friend Michael had a 19th edition of a book by her Clergyman father 
"Lectures for Young Men". It was advice on career, gambling, how to act in society, 
and so forth. The chapter on "The Mysteries of Women" was hysterical!
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Subject: [h-cost] Sort of OT: Dress Diaries?
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Once I survive the local gaming convention and finish my nephew's final 
trick-or-treat costume, I've got a project in mind for myself.  I have the Folkwear 
Beach Pyjamas pattern, what I would like to do is scale it up for my size and 
make it by summer 2005.  I was thinking about doing a dress diary on this to 
help keep me on track, but I have a few questions about them.

First, is it easier to run a dress diary on a webpage or set up a Live 
Journal for it?  I know a web page can sit out there indefinitely once completed, do 
Live Journals need a certain amount of activity on them?  In other words, 
would I have to keep running the LJ if I wanted the diary to remain available?

Second, do I need to talk the aunt with the digital camera into photographing 
everything, or can I get away with taking regular pictures and getting a CD 
from the developer?  (Yes, I know that would take a little longer -- but since 
I prefer handcoding HTML to using an Internet Explorer-only web page builder, 
I won't be setting any speed records for updates anyway :) .)

Oh, yes, and one about the outfit -- anyone know what would have been worn 
under beach pyjamas?  I really should get underpinnings settled before taking 
measurements ....

Leah
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Old movies, costume treasures
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>>I remember reading somewhere that there used to be extras who
specialized in 'fancy dress', and even provided their own costumes. 
Could it be that some of these were actual garments preserved from the
Victorian era?

They are the originals.  You can tell just by looking which are the 30's
"modern stuff" and where the background extras have the "real" stuff.
Sometimes it's hard to define how you "know", but the details get
richer, the shapes and fabric change.  30's sensibilities vs. 19th
century.

As to extra's who specialize.  That still goes on today.  There are the
folks that buy a designer gown or two, have historic costumes (like a
number of folks on list have done), have vintage car & gear to go with.
Various extra casting agents specialize in these folks and even ask them
to addition the costumes for them.

Some stuff never changes. <G>

-Cat-


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Subject: [h-cost] GFDs ???
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what is a GFD??

Katheryne
catching up on 4 days of messages

----- Original Message -----
From: Dianne & Greg Stucki <goofy1@suscom.net>
<snip>

> I tried it
> on, and with a few modifications, I think I can get a decent GFD 
> out of it.
> 
> Dianne

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Old movies, costume treasures
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Catherine Kinsey" <ckinsey@kumc.edu>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 2004 9:38 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Old movies, costume treasures


> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> I remember reading somewhere that there used to be extras who
> specialized in 'fancy dress', and even provided their own costumes.
> Could it be that some of these were actual garments preserved from the
> Victorian era?

Possible. David Niven talked about this in his book "The Moon's a Balloon".
(Required reading for anyone interested in movies and actors of this time
period--as should be his follow up, Bring On the Empty Horses. Mr Niven was
quite a raconteur)

Dianne
>
> Catherine
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Court Garb in hot weather (WAS:current and future work?)
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> *gee*  this show sounds familiar.... 


JL

> Remember my experiences are not only playing
> Elizabethan noble but also
> working with people in full plate armor.  I can
> remember a show we did one
> weekend in 99 degree humid heat that we were
> literally dropping people out
> after each show due to 1) heat and 2)flu.  I was the
> only one sick that made
> all 6 shows and a lot of it was being very careful
> to take it easy an stay
> as cool as possible.  That same weekend we had  1
> actor drop - literally -
> with heat exhaustion due to not replacing minerals
> and 3 Knights literally
> sizzle skin on their armor.  Total for the weekend
> starting with 40 actors
> we finished with a total of just under 20 from
> attrition.  The troop has 7
> people we watch closely because they have all heat
> exhausted before and once
> you do it the first time you become more susceptible
> to the problem.
> 
> 

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From: "Cindy Abel" <brujne@creighton.edu>
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Subject: [h-cost] Upcoming (to the U.S. side of the pond,
	anyway)shows of interest
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It isn't on the PBS website yet, but here are two series of interest to
historic costumers.

"Regency House Party" starts Nov 3rd. In the tradition of the 1900 House,
Frontier House, and Colonial House, et.al. Young Brit singles and chaparones
spend an English summer at a grand English country house to see how the dos
and don'ts of upper-class matchmaking circa 1820-1830 impact on modern men
and women.  This time, servants and cooks were hired so the cast members
don't have to do hard labor. From the book I bought off Amazon.ca earlier
this year, the young women wear mostly light-colored gowns.

"Henry VIII" Masterpiece Theatre, starts Nov 7th.  Out on DVD Nov 16th
according to amazon.com
Ray Winston as Henry and Helena Bonham-Carter as Anne.  Well, the costumes
will be fun to judge.

Also this fall is a series the "Lost Prince" set in late 19th-early 20th c
England about one of the little-known descendants of Queen Victoria.

Cindy Abel



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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] GFDs, and cotehardies
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On Tue, 14 Sep 2004 purplkat@optonline.net wrote:

> what is a GFD??

Gothic fitted dress. That's a term I've used in my lectures to refer to
the woman's basic body garment (worn over the chemise, alone or with an
overgown on top) of about 1350-1450, Western Europe. Purely a descriptive
term: It coincides with the art style known as "International Gothic";
it's fitted; it's a dress. People who have heard me talk about this over
the years have picked up the term, and of course initialized it.

In period, the dress would have been called by many different names
depending on language -- kirtle, cote, cotte, gonella, etc. Modern
costuming sources often call it a "cotehardie," which is a period term,
but with a much narrower meaning. References to cotehardies in period seem
universally to be overgowns -- fitted, yes, but not the same as the fitted
underdress worn under the cotehardie.

>From what I've seen so far in period documents, "cotehardie" seems to be
used for both men's and women's fitted overgarments in French; in English,
it seems to have been used mostly to refer to the men's (short) version.
This distinction can be fuzzy when you're looking at, say, English royal
inventories, because French was also spoken to some degree at the English
court. In any case, I've only found a couple of English uses of
"cotehardie" that appear to refer to women's garments. The most-cited one
(from the Book of the Knight of the Tower) is from around 1450 (give or
take a couple of decades), near or after the end of the fitted dress era
and certainly well after the fashionable use of the overgarment called the
"cotehardie" in England. The book in this case is actually a translation
of a 1371 French book, so the 15th-c. English translator may have simply
picked up the 14th-c. French term intact from the original, particularly
if the dress style was already outdated enough that he didn't have an
equivalent English term.

In my GFD lecture, I mention that I don't agree with the common modern use
of "cotehardie" to apply to the underdress (or, as some people use the
term, to pretty much any fitted dress over a period of several
centuries!). I then explain that in period it is most commonly used to
refer to the man's short fitted overgarment, and probably also to the
equivalent women's overgarment in some cases. Alas, I have found that some
people have come away from the lecture remembering only half of this and
are now quoting me as saying that the term "cotehardie" is inappropriate
because it was only used for men's garments. That's not the case. The
gender issue is minor (and only an issue in English); the essential point
is that the term refers to a specific *layer*. The cotehardie was an
overgarment, worn over a fitted dress that almost certainly was *not*
itself called a cotehardie.

--Robin


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Old-movies, costume treasures
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> I remember reading somewhere that there used to be extras who
> specialized in 'fancy dress', and even provided their own costumes.
> Could it be that some of these were actual garments preserved from
the
> Victorian era?

Possible. David Niven talked about this in his book "The Moon's a
Balloon".
(Required reading for anyone interested in movies and actors of this
time
period--as should be his follow up, Bring On the Empty Horses. Mr Niven
was
quite a raconteur)

Dianne
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
That was it!  Altho I think I read some support for it some where in a
movie costume book.

And Niven's books are hilarious, well worth the read, especially if you
are a fan of the movies of the 30's, 40's & 50's.

Catherine
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 19:43:34 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Chassidim
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	<Pine.LNX.4.10.10409112059390.16743-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
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Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote
>
>On Sat, 11 Sep 2004, Jean Waddie wrote:
>
>> By chance the other day I came across information on modest dress and
>> headcovering under Jewish law.  I found it quite surprising.  While
>> Christian and Muslim tradition is mainly about covering oneself in
>> public, particularly in front of unrelated men, the ideal of Jewish
>> headcovering is apparently for a married woman to keep her hair
>> covered at *all* times, including in bed with her husband, and when
>> combing it - you do so under a loose scarf. So what looks like a very
>> similar requirement in all three "Abrahamic" religions is actually
>> quite different.
>
>This might well be a particularly strict interpretation of the law by one
>particular ultra-Orthodox sect. I'm Jewish, with some familiarity of the
>range of traditions among various Jewish movements, and I've never heard
>that particular reading before. However, I wouldn't be surprised if
>whoever wrote what you read made it sound as though this were some
>canonical "Jewish Law" that was supposed to apply to all Jews.
>
>--Robin

I went back and found the site:  http://www.modestworld.com/laws.html#b

It does cover everything from the most basic requirement up to the 
strictest.  I found it very interesting, in fact, the way the law and 
commentary actually seems to be set out that way, with different levels 
to "choose from" (I suspect that's not the right interpretation, but you 
can read the site and see how it reads to you), where I am more used to 
a system that sets an absolute requirement, and then commentaries argue 
about what is sufficient to count as meeting that requirement.  I didn't 
mean to imply that the "ideal" level was expected of every woman.

Jean

-- 
Jean Waddie
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 19:48:22 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: the word "kit"
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Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk> wrote
>
>> >I'm going to make a stab at it and see if I'm right! As I understand
>> >it, the word "kit" is used by many reenactment groups to mean all the
>
>> >"stuff" that appertains to their costume and/or the role they play.
>So
>> >it would mean their belts, knives, shoes, spoons, hatpins, etc. Not
>> >just the garments. I don't know if it also includes furniture and
>camp
>> >things. In the US we generally use the word "kit" to mean gathered
>> >parts you assemble into something else, such as a model airplane kit,
>
>> >but this is more in line with the (here) old soldier's "kit bag" use,
>
>> >ie "Pack up your troubles in your old kit bag and smile, smile,
>smile!"
>> >
>> >Gail Finke
>> >
>> This is correct, but "kit" is used in both senses, eg:
>> "we have so much kit we had to buy a larger car" and
>> "sometimes I just walk to events in kit, rather than change
>> when I get  there"
>>
>> A lot of British reenactors also use "civvies" (ie, civilian clothes)
>> for modern clothing, from the same military background.
>
>And to add to what Jean said, a some refer to non-re-enactors as
>"grockles" (that isn't as common) and those who came into re-enactment
>via SF fandom slip and refer to them byt the SF community name for non
>fannish types and call them  "Mundanes".   Yesterday, when we were
>coming towards the end of the day I asked someone if they were going to,
>"travel home in kit or change into your mundanes?"
>
>Teddy

I suspect "grockle" is regional - I came across it as a term for 
tourists when my sister lived on the Isle of Wight, and I've only heard 
it from people living in the south of England  - and on Jersey!

Jean

-- 
Jean Waddie
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Old-movies, costume treasures
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Catherine Kinsey" <ckinsey@kumc.edu>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 2004 2:11 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Old-movies, costume treasures


> That was it!  Altho I think I read some support for it some where in a
> movie costume book.
>
> And Niven's books are hilarious, well worth the read, especially if you
> are a fan of the movies of the 30's, 40's & 50's.
>
> Catherine

It was funny that this came up when it did--I was in the middle of
re-reading "The Moon's A Balloon" when the topic was raised. I thoroughly
enjoy both of those books, and the man had a wicked sense of humor.  Some
beautiful photos in them too.

Dianne


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Chassidim
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On Tue, 14 Sep 2004, Jean Waddie wrote:

> I went back and found the site:  
> http://www.modestworld.com/laws.html#b
> 
> It does cover everything from the most basic requirement up to the
> strictest.  I found it very interesting, in fact, the way the law and
> commentary actually seems to be set out that way, with different
> levels to "choose from" (I suspect that's not the right
> interpretation, but you can read the site and see how it reads to
> you), where I am more used to a system that sets an absolute
> requirement, and then commentaries argue about what is sufficient to
> count as meeting that requirement.  I didn't mean to imply that the
> "ideal" level was expected of every woman.

Your description of "a system that sets an absolute requirement, and then
commentaries argue about what is sufficient to count as meeting that
requirement" is probably the more accurate description of Jewish legal
interpretation. What you're seeing here is not levels of "requirements,"
basic to strict, to "choose from," but is actually part of the ongoing
argument among commentators. This writer is trying to make a case for a
more stringent level of observation that is not in fact generally
accepted, but is the custom of certain small and ultra-conservative sects.

What I think isn't clear to an outsider about this site is that the rules
he describes are not actually an outline of the law. The first section
does describe the law (phrased here as the "absolute requirement"), but
then most of the rest is what this particular commentator (the author of
this book) *thinks* people should do, and he cites particular opinions of
earlier writers (not necessarily parts of Jewish law) to support his
case.

So, you'll see in the first section that the requirements are attributed
to written law (Torah) and oral law (certain commentaries, which have the
force of law for Orthodox Jews). After that, though, he departs from the
law, and moves into what *he* and some other previous writers think people
should do.

First he gives an anecdote of a particularly pious woman who covered her
hair at all times -- an ideal, as you note, but only in the eyes of
certain people. It's not set out as an ideal by law, but is a traditional
tale (according to him).

The section right after, which warns of great harm and curses falling upon
the homes of women who do not cover within the home, is also not from the
law, but from the Zohar, a writing of the Kabbalah (sometimes called
"Jewish mysticism") which is by no means universally accepted even among
Orthodox Jews. (The Zohar has got some pretty wild things in it.) Again,
you're seeing the editorializing of this particular author, who laments at
the end "It is tragic that such an important Chazal (teaching of our
sages) as this Zohar (a Kabbalistic writing) is not more widely known."

Perhaps one way to understand the point of view on this page is to
consider what a preacher/minister might say in a particularly
conservative, fundamentalist Christian church, compared to what a minister
might say in a more "mainstream" church. In both cases, it will sound like
"This is what God tells us to do," but the messages will be quite
different. And it's not always clear which points are, say, directly from
the Bible, and which are just the custom of the particular church, because
all are presented as coming from a point of authority. (I have watched as
my fundamentalist nieces and nephews have been surprised to learn, as they
grew older and had more contact outside the narrow church community, that
not all Christians followed all the rules their minister told them were
required of Christians.)

It's also worth noting that this particular page, which cites passages
from a single (modern) author's book on modesty, is not on a website about
Jewish law or scholarship, but on a site selling "modest" clothing and
accessories for women. And books, including this one. You can almost
equate this to a health-food site selling supplements, complete with
"medical articles" describing the benefits of particular compounds. That's
not the same as an article in the New England Journal of Medicine -- but
it sure looks authoritative if you don't know a lot about the field works.

--Robin


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In Missouri " If you like the weather, wait a few seconds or minutes, it
will change."
I have noted that while I was having my roof reshingled, it rained. Now that
I have it reshingled and the gutters with guards it doesn't rain.

De


----- Original Message -----
It's a common saying in Michigan that if you don't like the weather, wait
five minutes..it will change.
And it's true. Hence my love of the month of March in all its extremism.

Dianne

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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Chassidim
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Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote
>
>On Tue, 14 Sep 2004, Jean Waddie wrote:
>
>> I went back and found the site:
>> http://www.modestworld.com/laws.html#b
>>
>> It does cover everything from the most basic requirement up to the
>> strictest.  I found it very interesting, in fact, the way the law and
>> commentary actually seems to be set out that way, with different
>> levels to "choose from" (I suspect that's not the right
>> interpretation, but you can read the site and see how it reads to
>> you), where I am more used to a system that sets an absolute
>> requirement, and then commentaries argue about what is sufficient to
>> count as meeting that requirement.  I didn't mean to imply that the
>> "ideal" level was expected of every woman.
>
>Your description of "a system that sets an absolute requirement, and then
>commentaries argue about what is sufficient to count as meeting that
>requirement" is probably the more accurate description of Jewish legal
>interpretation. What you're seeing here is not levels of "requirements,"
>basic to strict, to "choose from," but is actually part of the ongoing
>argument among commentators. This writer is trying to make a case for a
>more stringent level of observation that is not in fact generally
>accepted, but is the custom of certain small and ultra-conservative sects.
>
<snip>

>It's also worth noting that this particular page, which cites passages
>from a single (modern) author's book on modesty, is not on a website about
>Jewish law or scholarship, but on a site selling "modest" clothing and
>accessories for women. And books, including this one. You can almost
>equate this to a health-food site selling supplements, complete with
>"medical articles" describing the benefits of particular compounds. That's
>not the same as an article in the New England Journal of Medicine -- but
>it sure looks authoritative if you don't know a lot about the field works.
>
>--Robin
>

Thanks for the clarification.  I know a lot of the sites on Christian 
women's headcovering can get pretty wacky, but for Christianity I know 
where the norm is, and I can pretty much tell how far to the side of 
that is the "norm" for Christians who cover.  For other religions I 
don't have the same reference point, so it's helpful to have it pointed 
out.

Jean
-- 
Jean Waddie
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Subject: [h-cost] Dress Diaries & Folkwear Beach Pyjamas
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>>Once I survive the local gaming convention and finish my nephew's final 
trick-or-treat costume, I've got a project in mind for myself.  I have the Folkwear 
Beach Pyjamas pattern, what I would like to do is scale it up for my size and 
make it by summer 2005. 

That is such a great pattern!  I have made it twice, and it came out perfectly both times.  Just a word abut the fit--I've read some complaints about the length of the body and the crotch depth being too long.  While this is true to modern eyes, if you look at period photos of women in trousers or pyjamas, you'll see that the crotch does hang lower than we wear it now.  (Goodness, that sounds so dreadful!) It gives it a nice, drapey fit.  

In terms of Dress Diaries--I've just started keeping one on LJ, which works best for me because I am a techno dork.  It's very user friendly with a helpful and detailed FAQ that tells people like me how to post text and photos, use cutlines, etc.  It isn't very flexible though, and I already find the formatting a little constricting.  If you have any Web dexterity at all, I'd advise setting up your own site that addresses everything you want it to.  I know that at some point down the line (well down the line!) I'd like to move my LJ dress diary to its own site.  

Pallas

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LLWatts@aol.com wrote:

> 
> Second, do I need to talk the aunt with the digital camera into photographing 
> everything, or can I get away with taking regular pictures and getting a CD 
> from the developer?  

I found it easier to upload from the digital on the day that I was 
working, and to write the daily blurb, than to add the pictures later. 
However, if that's the way that works best for you, don't let waiting a 
few weeks to fill a roll of film and get it processed slow you down on 
producing the diary. Sometimes if you don't have a picture you can write 
better descriptions of what you did because you don't have the option of 
saying "like in the photo".

Which reminds me, I need to update my last dress diary now that the gown 
is finished and the event is over.


Dawn




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Gothic Fitted Dress, aka "Gothic Fitted Gown."
--sue

purplkat@optonline.net wrote:

> what is a GFD??
> 
> Katheryne
> catching up on 4 days of messages
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Dianne & Greg Stucki <goofy1@suscom.net>
> <snip>
> 
>>I tried it
>>on, and with a few modifications, I think I can get a decent GFD 
>>out of it.
>>
>>Dianne
> 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Extinct diseases
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Just have to chime in here, although I am probably a bit late as I am
catching up...but polio is far from extinct in the "wider world". It is one
of Rotary Club's main philanthropic missions - to get polio vaccine to every
child in the world. Many places in Africa, India, South America have polio
running wild. That is why it is important for children in the U.S., where it
has been pretty much erradicated, to still get vaccinated - immigration from
these countries brings the virus into the U.S. (or other Western countries,
I imagine) and exposes children in schools, daycares, etc.
http://www.rotary.org/foundation/polioplus/index.html gives a little bit
more info.

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agnes Cabot, wife of Master Peter Cabot
Bristol Renaissance Faire, Guilde of St. Lawrence

My arms are too short to box with God.
                                        ~Johnny Cash

lotsofteapots@charter.net
**********************

MUCH SNIPPAGE


> I'm going to agree with that statement even though I titled the thread
> "extinct diseases". I read recently that a few cases of polio have shown
up
> in eastern Africa, much to the surprise of the medical establishment.
>

> >
> >Problem is, every time they think some disease is extinct, they find out
> >it isn't.  People still get polio, whooping cough, scarlet fever,
> >rheumatic fever, and all those other diseases the rest of us think are
extinct.
> >        CarolynKayta Barrows
>
>

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Ok I'm working on a polonaise (PP 1880's polonaise that I've made
before in plaid) and my idea is to trim the lining fabric around the
edge of the hem and neck and etc. Does anyone know how to quill fabric
or have instructions online? I did it eons ago but cannot for the life
of me recall how to do it.

B.
-- 
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period." 
Italian Ladies 2005 Calendar
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Subject: [h-cost] Butterick Corset (#4254) question
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Hi All,

Has anyone here made up the Victorian corset (view D) from Butterick's 
pattern # B4254? I'm helping my local high school with their fall costume 
drama and we're considering putting the actresses in Victorian corsets, 
but given that this is for high school theatre and their budget is almost 
nothing, we're trying to figure out if corsets are a necessary expense.

Would this corset work sufficiently well if Rigelene or a poly boning were 
used? The actresses in question don't need a tremendous amount of shaping 
from the corsets and they'll only be worn for 2-3 hours at a time, which 
is why I'm considering alternatives to metal.

Any suggestions for substitutes for the hook and post busks? Would a metal 
bone on each side of the center front and hook-n-eye tape work well enough 
here? One actress has a very quick costume change where the corset should 
be removed, so I'd like to keep the front opening without the expense of 
the busk.

Anyone have any creative, theatrical suggestions? Know of any sources that
give discounts to schools? It's been a long time since I've done
theatrical costuming as opposed to re-enactment so I'm having to try to
remember all those short cuts and what not that I've spent years trying to
get out of the habit of using. ;)

thanks,
Carol

~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~
Carol E. Newby             Elspeth the Semstress of Dunkeld, OP
ladybug@neei.com                   http://www.neei.com/~ladybug 

    "Act well your part, there all honor lies."
		~ William Shakespeare
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From: "Kate Pinner" <pinner@mccc.edu>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Butterick Corset (#4254) question
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If she has a quick change, consider a sport separating zipper in place of
the hook & eye tape. Sport weight is sturdy enough to hold and will give
some (not  a lot) of rigidity.  Also try to use metal boning  where you can,
especially around the grommets or lacing holes.
Kate

> Any suggestions for substitutes for the hook and post busks? Would a metal
> bone on each side of the center front and hook-n-eye tape work well enough
> here? One actress has a very quick costume change where the corset should
> be removed, so I'd like to keep the front opening without the expense of
> the busk.
>
> Anyone have any creative, theatrical suggestions? Know of any sources that
> give discounts to schools? It's been a long time since I've done
> theatrical costuming as opposed to re-enactment so I'm having to try to
> remember all those short cuts and what not that I've spent years trying to
> get out of the habit of using. ;)
>
> thanks,
> Carol
>
> ~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~
> Carol E. Newby             Elspeth the Semstress of Dunkeld, OP
> ladybug@neei.com                   http://www.neei.com/~ladybug
>
>     "Act well your part, there all honor lies."
> ~ William Shakespeare
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Butterick Corset (#4254) question
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Status: RO

One really quick (and cheap) option for a front opening corset is to make a
set of interlocking tabs that can act as a sheath for a strong metal bone
(or wood busk). To remove the corset, you just pull the bone out!  (If you
need a diagram to make sense of this, let me know.) For a little added
security, you can use the wooden busk option, drill holes top and bottom,
and add ties to hold it in place.

For boning, I'd suggest 4-6 metal bones per corset (2 at front, 2 at back,
and 1 on each side), with cable ties (Home Depot, Lowe's) for stiffening in
the rest of the corset. Those 6 bones are plenty to keep a non-tightlacing
corset firm, and the cable ties in other key spots will keep the fabric from
wrinkling (which is not just a matter of visual appeal; it makes a huge
difference in comfort).  One of the main advantages of cable ties is that
they bend from side to side, which makes fitting easier; you don't have to
get the bone channels juuuust right in order to keep the ties from twisting
uncomfortably, as you would with metal. In other words, less time spent
altering your pattern to each individual. =}

-E House
Liberty in Our Lifetime - www.freestateproject.org
Coming Soon - http://www.seamcheckers.com

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] update of danish courdress
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Hi,
I have updated the sites with the danish courdress. Working on the skirt
wich has 4 widths of taffeta 140 cm wide, this is a lot of fabric to sit
with. I have only pinned the skirt to the bodice, but i finished the bodice
compleately. Have yeat to finish the skirt and the court train............
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/estrup2.htm

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Upcoming (to the U.S. side of the
	pond,anyway)shows of interest
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I've seen all these here in the UK.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> brujne@creighton.edu 14/09/2004 18:39:07 >>>
>"Regency House Party" starts Nov 3rd. In the tradition of the 1900
>House, Frontier House, and Colonial House, et.al. Young Brit singles
>and chaparones spend an English summer at a grand English country
>house to see how the dos and don'ts of upper-class matchmaking circa
>1820-1830 impact on modern men and women.  

A decade earlier, surely? THe Regent became king (George IV) in 1820.

>"Henry VIII" Masterpiece Theatre, starts Nov 7th. 

>Also this fall is a series the "Lost Prince" set in late 19th-early
20th c
>England about one of the little-known descendants of Queen Victoria.

This was excellent; about George V's autistic youngest son.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Butterick Corset (#4254) question
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In a message dated 9/14/2004 11:49:24 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
pinner@mccc.edu writes:

> If she has a quick change, consider a sport separating zipper in place of
> the hook &eye tape.

I've seen zippers down the front of never-to-be-seen corsets for really fast 
changes. But also metal boning with big hooks and eyes will work.

A split busk is not that expensive.  You can make up a pretty corset. It 
doesn't take much material, a little lace and some ribbon at the top....look at 
some of the later Victorian corsets in black and yellow or pale blue. Or a white 
on white jacquard or damask. Check out table cloths. Or even a white on white 
calico. Or fins an embroidered ribbon to use as boning casing on the outside. 
Can be gorgeous! Maybe the girl or her parents will spring for the busk if 
she gets to keep the beautiful corset.

Also, I'd try to use metal boning, but if it's not available you can, for 
more support, put two pieces of Rigelene in each vent. [Zig zag right through the 
2 pieces of Rigelene to make them one before inserting them. Melt the ends a 
little].
 Y'know, check out the local hardware store for boning material. Any metal 
stripping or cable you cut can be tipped with adhesive tape. I've heard of 
people using that stuff you dip tool handles in to tip bones, but I haven't done 
it.....and I know the stuff melts with heat so keep the iron away from it.
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Sep 15 11:54:36 2004
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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 08:53:16 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Butterick Corset (#4254) question
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
To: h costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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HI, Carol,

There have been some good suggestions for the corset. My questions is this:
do you need the corset visible in a scene or just for shaping?

If you don't need to see the corset, why not skip the corset and put the
boning into the dress instead? That way you can use good metal boning and
skip the expense and time of the corset. You'd need bones in the dress to
keep it smooth whether you used a corset or not, so skip the corset.
However, don't skimp on bones. Perhaps you can use some of the less
expensive bone substitutes, although I've never been happy with Rigelene
when I've used it, but for the main bones, use the good metal stuff. I think
the least expensive place to find boning is Farthingales in Canada. They're
fast and very reliable. When you look at their site, remember they are
quoting in Canadian dollars.

http://www.farthingales.on.ca/

Best of luck,
LynnD

> From: "Carol E. Newby" <ladybug@neei.com>
> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 23:30:19 -0400 (EDT)
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] Butterick Corset (#4254) question
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> Has anyone here made up the Victorian corset (view D) from Butterick's
> pattern # B4254? I'm helping my local high school with their fall costume
> drama and we're considering putting the actresses in Victorian corsets,
> but given that this is for high school theatre and their budget is almost
> nothing, we're trying to figure out if corsets are a necessary expense.
> 
> Would this corset work sufficiently well if Rigelene or a poly boning were
> used? The actresses in question don't need a tremendous amount of shaping
> from the corsets and they'll only be worn for 2-3 hours at a time, which
> is why I'm considering alternatives to metal.
> 
> Any suggestions for substitutes for the hook and post busks? Would a metal
> bone on each side of the center front and hook-n-eye tape work well enough
> here? One actress has a very quick costume change where the corset should
> be removed, so I'd like to keep the front opening without the expense of
> the busk.
> 
> Anyone have any creative, theatrical suggestions? Know of any sources that
> give discounts to schools? It's been a long time since I've done
> theatrical costuming as opposed to re-enactment so I'm having to try to
> remember all those short cuts and what not that I've spent years trying to
> get out of the habit of using. ;)
> 
> thanks,
> Carol
> 
> ~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~~~*~
> Carol E. Newby             Elspeth the Semstress of Dunkeld, OP
> ladybug@neei.com                   http://www.neei.com/~ladybug
> 
>     "Act well your part, there all honor lies."
> ~ William Shakespeare
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Sep 15 12:04:43 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] update of danish courdress
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Gorgeous, Bjarne. I remember you had some uncertainties as to the sleeve
lace--clearly, you've found the right answers!
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

on 9/15/04 10:51 AM, Bjarne og Leif Drews at drewscph@post12.tele.dk wrote:

> 
> Hi,
> I have updated the sites with the danish courdress. Working on the skirt
> wich has 4 widths of taffeta 140 cm wide, this is a lot of fabric to sit
> with. I have only pinned the skirt to the bodice, but i finished the bodice
> compleately. Have yeat to finish the skirt and the court train............
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/estrup2.htm
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> 
> 
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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 09:07:00 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
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At 04:51 PM 9/15/2004 +0200, you wrote:

>Hi,
>I have updated the sites with the danish courdress. Working on the skirt
>wich has 4 widths of taffeta 140 cm wide, this is a lot of fabric to sit
>with. I have only pinned the skirt to the bodice, but i finished the bodice
>compleately. Have yeat to finish the skirt and the court train............
>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/estrup2.htm
>
>Bjarne

It's very beautiful.  I'd love to see someone dancing in that dress...

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Gorgeous, Bjarne. I remember you had some uncertainties as to the sleeve
lace--clearly, you've found the right answers!
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

Hi,
Those sleaves was the hardest work to do, because i made the ruffles in
machine embroidered organza.
First the organza was full of pearls embroidered to it, and i had to remove
them. Then all the thread ends after the pearls, because they were sewn on
as if they never should have ben removed again.
Then all the pleating wich i had to do by sewing down each single pleat so
that i could steam press them....sigh.
Then again remove all my own stitching down of the pleats and on and on
Glad i have come trough it.
I have pleanty of fabric left, so perhaps i will make a new bodice during
this winter, because the fabric is not stretched smoothly and tight as it
should be on the boned foundation. Next time i wont make different seams as
the foundation but use the same cut to both layers.
I am very self crittic, but the best way to do such a thing would be to make
a compleate model, and then make  a new one again. I think it always ends up
with some things you wished you had made better..............

Bjarne






Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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> Any suggestions for substitutes for the hook and post busks? 
> Would a metal bone on each side of the center front and hook-n-eye tape 
> work well enough here? One actress has a very quick costume change where the 
> corset should be removed, so I'd like to keep the front opening without the 
> expense of the busk.

If you want the change to be fast and the corset is visible (meaning the zipper option is out), my advice is to use the busk. They are _much_ faster then hook-and-eye to get out of. Also, the hooks in the hook-and-eye tape tend to bend out of shape if put under the kind of pressure corseting tends to use, and if you're not creating that kinda pressure, the corset doesn't tend to be doing the job of bust-support correctly. Another fast-change option: Don't bother with the front opening, and have someone cut her out of the back-lacing during the fast change (this would require a little more time then the busk option, so it would depend on how fast the change really is...)

> Would this corset work sufficiently well if Rigelene or a 
> poly boning were used? 

I personally prefer metal boning, but if it's a price issue you can use ridgeline -- I've had trouble with ridgeline buckling if I didn't get the length absolutely correct. Another low-price option would be to replace the mettle boning with a couple rows of cording. I don't know the pattern, so I don't know if this would be an easy adjustment to make. In either case (cording or rig inline) You'll still want metal around the lacing holes.  

Depending on the era you're doing, and the busty-ness of your actresses many styles can be faked without a corset -- I'd classify both Regency and the Titanic eras in this category.
	-sunny

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At 09:57 AM 9/13/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>Unfortunately, it does not seem to
>be genetic as my kids have all had the chicken pox (3 of them in one month)
>and were as sick as kids usually are with it.


HI Donna,

Be glad you could be with them during chicken pox. I never had the disease, 
so by doctors orders I have to avoid my children when they have it if at 
all possible. I was banned from my oldest son for a few weeks while he went 
through it.

And it is still genetically viable in your children, but as a recessive 
gene. Your grandchildren or further may show up with the immunity.

Kimiko


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sort of OT: Dress Diaries?
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At 12:10 PM 9/14/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>First, is it easier to run a dress diary on a webpage or set up a Live
>Journal for it?

If you get a paid LJ account, you can make the LJ entries look just like a 
part of your own web site. I am finding that personally, it is easier for 
me to write the DD in LJ, and make the entry into a Memory. I plan on later 
going back over my LJ dressdiary entries and posting them to my website, 
when I have my costume info put in.

>I know a web page can sit out there indefinitely once completed, do
>Live Journals need a certain amount of activity on them?  In other words,
>would I have to keep running the LJ if I wanted the diary to remain available?

I don't think LJs have to have activity to keep them active. I have a 
friend who hasn't posted anything in her LJ in a couple of years, and it is 
still active. Also, I was recently informed that there is software out 
there that can take your LJ posts and save them onto your hard drive, 
providing a backup service, and apparantly it can search your LJ entries. 
Haven't used it yet...
http://fawx.com/ljArchive/

>Second, do I need to talk the aunt with the digital camera into photographing
>everything, or can I get away with taking regular pictures and getting a CD
>from the developer?  (Yes, I know that would take a little longer -- but 
>since
>I prefer handcoding HTML to using an Internet Explorer-only web page builder,
>I won't be setting any speed records for updates anyway :) .)

You can do both, or either. I do both. I have a cheap digital to take 
ongoing photos of my work in progress, and that is hooked into an AC cord 
so I don't use up lots of batteries. However, getting the time to upload 
them onto a dress diary, as I always have to fiddle with the pics, is 
something of a pain. I then use my nice 35mm camera for portfolio and final 
photos, with backdrop and now filtered bright lights and all (before I took 
them outside on overcast days, which are non existant in our summers), and 
that goes onto CD during processing. Sometime after my next faire I need to 
take more "studio" style photos of old garb before I sell those off.

For info on taking good photos for a portfolio (not everyday dressdiaries), 
see Tara Maginnis's info at Costumer's Manifesto. I was able to catch her 
Costume College class on this. Great info for setting up a basic photo studio.
http://costumes.org/advice/1pages/photo4portfolioCC04B.htm

hth,

Kimiko

Kimiko Small
Owner ~ DreamTime Studios
http://www.dreamtime-studios.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

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Subject: [h-cost] Kubu cloth
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I have an opportunity to get some kubu cloth from a friend, does any one 
know anything about this type of cloth?

Jennifer

If you are squeamish, don't prod the beach rubble.
				Sappho 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] raised/stumpwork flowers.
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Hi Saragrace.
Sorry of the delay of this.
You are right, but i think not i could use it in this tecknique because the
flower leaves are made with buttonhole stitches, and my chenille is two
thick for this. It would be much two clumsy, if you know what i mean.
But i have ordered some stumpwork books so i think i shall get some ideas.
By the way i got my Chenille Silk from Aurora today.
I was very pleased for this, because their Chenille is doubble as thin as
the ones i have from Au vers A Soie.
Now i can make some of that bobbin lace shown in Costume in Detail, where
the gimp is a Chenille thread, and also i can make much finer embroidery
with this thinner chenille.............
Gosh i got 3 large skeins, so i am going to colour it in many beautifull
shades...............
When i have finished the courtdress though :-(
How are you getting along with your Elizabeth Dress?

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Wicked Frau" <wickedfrau@earthlink.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, September 13, 2004 3:56 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] raised/stumpwork flowers.


> I have just the answer for you I think!  Have you read the series on
> Elizabethan embroidery by Sheila Marshall?  You can see them here.  She
> shows how to do these flowers in one of these books.  If you'd like me
> to check which one, I can...I have them.
>
> ttp://www.jdr-be.com/elizabethaseriesgallery.htm
>
> This is not necessarily the place to buy them from, but just a place to
> see them.
>
> Sg
>
>
> Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>
> >Hi,
> >Talking about other and better things than extinct deseases.
> >While working on the courtdress i have only had my mind thinking about
the
> >next projekt i am starting soon. The original dress is in the huge
costume
> >book from Kyoto, not Revolution, but the other one. It is a large pannier
> >dres with pleated ruches and small bouques of flowers spread along the
> >ruches. Originally made with chenille threads.
> >I have ordered a large skein of undyed silk chenille, and i want to dye
it
> >in some colours that will suit the pale yellow silk taffeta. Then i have
> >ordered some embroidery books about stumpwork so that i can get some
ideas
> >to make 3-dimensional flowers of the chenille.
> >I was thinking about making the flowerleaves by outlining with millinery
> >wire and then weave the chenille back and forth, but for the flowers i am
> >not sure!
> >Long live Amazon.com next week i will have the books!
> >
> >
> >Bjarne
> >
> >
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >h-costume mailing list
> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >
> >
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 08:36:51 2004
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From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] update of danish courdress
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Holy Cow! That *is* a lot of skirt fabric! But so elegant to wear!
The lace and the sleeve puffs are very interesting, too!
What a lucky lady someone's going to be!
--sue, typing this with the assistance of her kitty, Mack

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Hi,
> I have updated the sites with the danish courdress. Working on the skirt
> wich has 4 widths of taffeta 140 cm wide, this is a lot of fabric to sit
> with. I have only pinned the skirt to the bodice, but i finished the bodice
> compleately. Have yeat to finish the skirt and the court train............
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/estrup2.htm
> 
> Bjarne


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 13:58:27 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] update of danish courdress-Question...
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Bjarne, what happens when someone walks forward or dances in a dress 
with the farthingale only to their knees?  Does it break at that point, 
or is the fabric stiff enough that you don't see it? 

Sg (who is applying anything she can learn to her current project)

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

>Hi,
>I have updated the sites with the danish courdress. Working on the skirt
>wich has 4 widths of taffeta 140 cm wide, this is a lot of fabric to sit
>with. I have only pinned the skirt to the bodice, but i finished the bodice
>compleately. Have yeat to finish the skirt and the court train............
>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/estrup2.htm
>
>Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>  
>
_______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 14:34:59 2004
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Bjarne, what happens when someone walks forward or dances in a dress
with the farthingale only to their knees?  Does it break at that point,
or is the fabric stiff enough that you don't see it?

Sg (who is applying anything she can learn to her current project)

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

Hi Saragrace,
The wheelfarthingales i made for the dansers back in time was used to show
very lively renaissance danses in them.
But they never broke. Do you mean that the fabric will be "broken" or bend?
This it will, but not that much. If a lady in a wheelfarthingale is going
into something in the front, a table for instance, the wheel will bend into
the body and raise in the back. And the skirt will be lifted up behind.
Is that what you ment with your question?

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 21:05:28 2004
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No, what I meant is that if the ''skirt'' of the farthingale only comes 
down to the knee, does the fabric of the gown bend so that you can tell 
there is something stiffer underneath?  Does that make more sense?

Thanks
Sg

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

>o
>the body and raise in the back. And the skirt will be lifted up behind.
>Is that what you ment with your question?
>
>Bjarne
>
>
>  
>
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On Thursday 09 September 2004 9:51 pm, Ms Cynthia Schrage wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> I'm new to this group, and have been lurking for about
> a week. It's been very interesting (i.e., pads) and
> inspiring (the embroidered silk wedding dress).
>
> I am "clothing" a group of women for a re-enactment
> set in America in 1845, and another bunch for another
> re-enactment set in 1853.
>
> My question is: what are the books you all would
> recommend most? Both books of a general nature and
> more period specific ones...

If you can find it, try:

Betty J. Mills.  Calico Chronicle. : Texas Women and their Fashions 1830-1910.  
Texas Tech Press 1985. ISBN 0-89672-128-0 (paperback)
                                             ISBN 0-89672-129-9 (clothbound)

As the subtitle implies, this book expressly deals with women's costume in 
Texas, and discusses evidence collected about Texans in Texas, but I'd bet 
that very similar costumes were worn all along the American frontier at that 
time.  (On the other hand, if you're costuming women for a reenactment set in 
one of the East Coast cities in that time frame, this book probably won't 
help you that much.)  :-)

I'm not sure if the book is out of print now or not.  I got my copy from an 
Iowa-based business that sells historic costuming patterns, books and 
supplies called Amazon Vinegar & Pickling Works Dry Goods, Ltd.  There's a 
sticker on my copy (it just fell off, actually) that gives the address and 
number as :

2218 E. 11th St., Davenport, IA  52803-3760
(319) 322-6800

They have a web site, but the last time I visited it they weren't set up to 
take orders through the site.

Good luck!

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] farthingale question
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 09:28:20 +0200
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Hi again,
Oh now i understand what you mean. If your outher fabric is stiff, it will
not show.
It is the same thing with panniers of the 18th century.Not all of them were
long, and it wont show if the pannier only is going half way down. Think
about the hip panniers, or pocket hoops, they are short, and they wont show.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Wicked Frau" <wickedfrau@earthlink.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, September 17, 2004 3:04 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] farthingale question


> No, what I meant is that if the ''skirt'' of the farthingale only comes
> down to the knee, does the fabric of the gown bend so that you can tell
> there is something stiffer underneath?  Does that make more sense?
>
> Thanks
> Sg
>
> Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>
> >o
> >the body and raise in the back. And the skirt will be lifted up behind.
> >Is that what you ment with your question?
> >
> >Bjarne
> >
> >
> >
> >
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] lining a train
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Hi,
I have a question. I am going to line my courttrain with the same material.
Sew and turn!
Should i make the linning of the train 3cm. shorter, so that it wont bulk
where i attach the train to the waistband?
I could invisible stitch the linning under where i pleat to the train?

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 11:58:50 +0100
From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Wet weather garb/English Summers (WAS: Court
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> Teddy wrote:

> > Margo, you and Wayne come over and visit me one summer and  I'll
show 
> > you what it's like over here.
> > 
> > A "lovely summer evening" in England can often mean that 
> > the rain is  nice and warm....

Sue replied:
> Yeah? I think you guys keep saying that to scare off the tourists!
When 
> Jane and I were over there 2 years ago, it didn't rain once! Okay, so
I saw
> a bare handful of raindrops my first day in Dublin, but  that was it!
> Amazing humidity, though! --sue, from (usually) much drier MT
 
That's the *other* problem with the English climate - what heat we get
is usually wet/sticky heat.

Teddy

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From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Regional re-enactemtn terms (WAS: the word "kit")
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Re: [h-cost] Re: the word "kit"

> I suspect "grockle" is regional - I came across it as a term for 
> tourists when my sister lived on the Isle of Wight, and I've  only
heard 
> it from people living in the south of England  - and on Jersey!

You could be right, Jean, the person I hear use it most often is from
South of London.

Teddy
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From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] update of danish courdress
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> I have updated the sites with the danish courdress. 

Oooh!  Pretty!

Teddy
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] raised/stumpwork flowers.
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 09:24:19 -0400
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I am following these notes with great anticipation for this up-coming
project.  Which page in the Kyoto book are you going to work from? 71?
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2004 8:23 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] raised/stumpwork flowers.


> Hi Saragrace.
> Sorry of the delay of this.
> You are right, but i think not i could use it in this tecknique because
the
> flower leaves are made with buttonhole stitches, and my chenille is two
> thick for this. It would be much two clumsy, if you know what i mean.
> But i have ordered some stumpwork books so i think i shall get some ideas.
> By the way i got my Chenille Silk from Aurora today.
> I was very pleased for this, because their Chenille is doubble as thin as
> the ones i have from Au vers A Soie.
> Now i can make some of that bobbin lace shown in Costume in Detail, where
> the gimp is a Chenille thread, and also i can make much finer embroidery
> with this thinner chenille.............
> Gosh i got 3 large skeins, so i am going to colour it in many beautifull
> shades...............
> When i have finished the courtdress though :-(
> How are you getting along with your Elizabeth Dress?
>
> Bjarne
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Wicked Frau" <wickedfrau@earthlink.net>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Monday, September 13, 2004 3:56 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] raised/stumpwork flowers.
>
>
> > I have just the answer for you I think!  Have you read the series on
> > Elizabethan embroidery by Sheila Marshall?  You can see them here.  She
> > shows how to do these flowers in one of these books.  If you'd like me
> > to check which one, I can...I have them.
> >
> > ttp://www.jdr-be.com/elizabethaseriesgallery.htm
> >
> > This is not necessarily the place to buy them from, but just a place to
> > see them.
> >
> > Sg
> >
> >
> > Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> >
> > >Hi,
> > >Talking about other and better things than extinct deseases.
> > >While working on the courtdress i have only had my mind thinking about
> the
> > >next projekt i am starting soon. The original dress is in the huge
> costume
> > >book from Kyoto, not Revolution, but the other one. It is a large
pannier
> > >dres with pleated ruches and small bouques of flowers spread along the
> > >ruches. Originally made with chenille threads.
> > >I have ordered a large skein of undyed silk chenille, and i want to dye
> it
> > >in some colours that will suit the pale yellow silk taffeta. Then i
have
> > >ordered some embroidery books about stumpwork so that i can get some
> ideas
> > >to make 3-dimensional flowers of the chenille.
> > >I was thinking about making the flowerleaves by outlining with
millinery
> > >wire and then weave the chenille back and forth, but for the flowers i
am
> > >not sure!
> > >Long live Amazon.com next week i will have the books!
> > >
> > >
> > >Bjarne
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >_______________________________________________
> > >h-costume mailing list
> > >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
>
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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Member/Bookshelf
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And I have an extra one. I would be glad to deal. Contact me off list,
please.
Kathleen
rmitchell@washjeff.edu
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Catherine Olanich Raymond" <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2004 11:13 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Member/Bookshelf


> On Thursday 09 September 2004 9:51 pm, Ms Cynthia Schrage wrote:
> > Hello all,
> >
> > I'm new to this group, and have been lurking for about
> > a week. It's been very interesting (i.e., pads) and
> > inspiring (the embroidered silk wedding dress).
> >
> > I am "clothing" a group of women for a re-enactment
> > set in America in 1845, and another bunch for another
> > re-enactment set in 1853.
> >
> > My question is: what are the books you all would
> > recommend most? Both books of a general nature and
> > more period specific ones...
>
> If you can find it, try:
>
> Betty J. Mills.  Calico Chronicle. : Texas Women and their Fashions
1830-1910.
> Texas Tech Press 1985. ISBN 0-89672-128-0 (paperback)
>                                              ISBN 0-89672-129-9
(clothbound)
>
> As the subtitle implies, this book expressly deals with women's costume in
> Texas, and discusses evidence collected about Texans in Texas, but I'd bet
> that very similar costumes were worn all along the American frontier at
that
> time.  (On the other hand, if you're costuming women for a reenactment set
in
> one of the East Coast cities in that time frame, this book probably won't
> help you that much.)  :-)
>
> I'm not sure if the book is out of print now or not.  I got my copy from
an
> Iowa-based business that sells historic costuming patterns, books and
> supplies called Amazon Vinegar & Pickling Works Dry Goods, Ltd.  There's a
> sticker on my copy (it just fell off, actually) that gives the address and
> number as :
>
> 2218 E. 11th St., Davenport, IA  52803-3760
> (319) 322-6800
>
> They have a web site, but the last time I visited it they weren't set up
to
> take orders through the site.
>
> Good luck!
>
> -- 
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>
> "Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue
> that counts."--Winston Churchill
> _______________________________________________
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>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] raised/stumpwork flowers.
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Hi Kathleen,
It is the Kyoto book called Fashion, the thick one and the dress is on page
69.
It also has ruched net on it, and the bouquets is made on top of that.
I am thinking about making the net of cotton tulle.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, September 17, 2004 3:24 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] raised/stumpwork flowers.


> I am following these notes with great anticipation for this up-coming
> project.  Which page in the Kyoto book are you going to work from? 71?
> Kathleen


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 12:40:01 2004
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From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Storage and organization
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The time has come, the walrus said...

I sort of got swept up in costume-making and more weaving projects while
unemployed. Now I'm working again and my whole house is hidden under a layer
of fabric and patterns, threads and yarns. I am trying to do the kind of
cleaning-up that results in organizing one's things for ongoing use, and --
beyond the ubiquitous rubbermaid lidded plastic tubs -- am looking for
advice on organizing one's materials. What do you all do to keep the fabrics
and notions and patterns and similar things under control?

Thanks for any tips!
Lauren

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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lauren Walker" <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, September 17, 2004 9:37 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Storage and organization

The time has come, the walrus said...

I sort of got swept up in costume-making and more weaving projects while
unemployed. Now I'm working again and my whole house is hidden under a layer
of fabric and patterns, threads and yarns. I am trying to do the kind of
cleaning-up that results in organizing one's things for ongoing use, and --
beyond the ubiquitous rubbermaid lidded plastic tub
{snipped}

Thanks for any tips!
Lauren


My husband plans to make me a cubby hole wall with holes 10" x 10" x 30"
cubbies.  This can even be recessed into the wall so it takes up less room.
I just can't find anything by using clear tubs as fast as I would like to.
Patterns are still in brown evelopes with the pictures of the pattern cut
and pasted to the front or in plastic evelopes that are clear and have a
space for a card.   Notions I try and keep my trim on round cardboard tubes
these are put on 30 " doweling and attached to the wall so they look like
towel racks covered in trim.   The rest of my notions etc. are in 7 drawer
clear  storage units I also keep my knitting etc. supplies in these.  I have
lots of room so I have 5 - 7 drawer units to keep different supplies in.
These units are on wheels so you can roll out the one you need to your work
space.  I find the biggest problem with keeping my work space clean is
working on too many projects at once.   Put away everything but 2 projects
and do not touch anything else till they are completed.


Brin Kendall

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Lauren Walker wrote:

> beyond the ubiquitous rubbermaid lidded plastic tubs -- am looking for
> advice on organizing one's materials. What do you all do to keep the fabrics
> and notions and patterns and similar things under control?

I have a very small sewing area, so I have to make the best use I can 
out of every inch, otherwise I have no room to work.

I actually use smaller containers than the 'tubs' for notions and such. 
The shoebox size is easier to squeeze into nooks and crannies, and they 
are clear so I can see at a glance what is in them. I have one for 
buttons, one for embroidery floss, ones for specific projects like 
beading, or one to hold all the trim and accessory bits for a particular 
outfit I am working on. Most of the boxes are under the cutting table in 
stacks.

Much of my fabric is on bookshelves. I've taken shelves out so I can 
stand the bolts up on end. Pattern boxes on the top, and the hat 
collection above that, so I use all the space right up to the ceiling.

When we moved in here my husband re-did the closet, took out the 
traditional single pole and shelf that it had and we put in a wire unit 
that has a regular pole on one side and a two-tier setup on the other 
half, with shelves above. My closets are narrow, but high and this makes 
much better use of the space.

The other two things are harder to define. These days I am ruthless 
about scraps. I no longer save every little bit. I have one tub under 
the sewing table and I empty it into the trash periodically if I don't 
use the scraps there. I'm honest with myself about how useful small 
pieces are, and I throw them out. (BTW, if anyone needs a care package 
of scraps, I am happy to send them for the cost of postage.)

Finally, I'm working on not generating clutter. I try to buy with 
projects in mind, not just because the fabric is luscious. (difficult, I 
know) I try to be realistic about whether I will do anything with the 
fabric, or trim, or whatnot before I buy it. For example, I love 
beautiful laces, but almost never use them on anything, so I only buy 
them when I have a specific need. And I am breaking my habit of buying 
extra 'just because'. I buy the yardage I need for a project and that's 
it. I know a costumer needs a good core stash, well, I've reached that 
point and until I have room for more I am trying to curttail my buying. 
(I'm satisfied that I have enough, the year my husband was out of work I 
made several new costumes using only what I had on hand, with minimal 
notions purchases)



Dawn


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Lauren Walker wrote:
> The time has come, the walrus said...
> I sort of got swept up in costume-making and more weaving projects while
> unemployed. Now I'm working again and my whole house is hidden under a layer
> of fabric and patterns, threads and yarns. I am trying to do the kind of
> cleaning-up that results in organizing one's things for ongoing use, and --
> beyond the ubiquitous rubbermaid lidded plastic tubs -- am looking for
> advice on organizing one's materials. What do you all do to keep the fabrics
> and notions and patterns and similar things under control?

I used the plastic tubs method for a long time (and it was very handy while
moving--everything already boxed up and ready to go!) but eventually it became
too hard to find particular fabrics.  In the new home, by husband and I are
lucky enough to have a workroom for computers and my sewing.  We purchased floor
to ceiling shelving from Ikea and assembled it against one wall, then sorted the
fabrics on by type and also made sure all the patterns, yarns, embroidery
materials, trims, etc., were grouped and clearly accessible.  The closet holds
the finished products and there's enough floorspace for the cutting mat to lay
on the floor--as long as I manage to keep it clean, that is!

--Kristin

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From: Kristalori History <jacquelinejbump@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Storage and organization
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Please DO NOT store fabric in totes if you can help it. Most people
don't realize but the plastic often develops tiny pinholes over time
and this can destroy fabric. This is crucial if you store your fabric
in a space with concrete floors. If you can't hang your bolts then
shelve them in an open space with lots of circulating air. If you MUST
box them use something like the Avon boxes or the boxes used for
copier paper. I also have a stash sheet made to go in 3 ring binders
if anyone wants it. (I have to find it but that's easy)
For patterns all my patterns are copied once on the face side of the
pattern and then the pattern is put in a dresser that has drawers
organized by company and then by number (I have over 1,000 patterns so
this was crucial) the copy of the envelope is then put into a sheet
protector and into a 3 ring binder that is divided by company and
number sequence.


On Fri, 17 Sep 2004 12:42:29 -0500, Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:
> Lauren Walker wrote:
> 
> > beyond the ubiquitous rubbermaid lidded plastic tubs -- am looking for
> > advice on organizing one's materials. What do you all do to keep the fabrics
> > and notions and patterns and similar things under control?
-- 
"Pardon me, Lady Tudor Glitz, but telling people things aren't period isn't
period." 
Italian Ladies 2005 Calendar
http://www.lulu.com/kristalori
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] raised/stumpwork flowers.
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Hhmm... Wow... I can't wait to see it done! Do you think you'll be able to
find that fabric?

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, September 17, 2004 10:11 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] raised/stumpwork flowers.


> Hi Kathleen,
> It is the Kyoto book called Fashion, the thick one and the dress is on
page
> 69.
> It also has ruched net on it, and the bouquets is made on top of that.
> I am thinking about making the net of cotton tulle.
>
> Bjarne
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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Storage and organization
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 15:26:22 -0400
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I started out with cardboard boxes in "my first costume life"; replaced them
with a variety of plastic containers. Even with dehumidifiers , the
cardboard had to get replaced on an ongoing basis.  I like stackables for
most trim and notions.  My fabric is on open shelving (18/24" wide, from
Home Depot...PVC.) Once or twice I was able to find plastic milk crates with
wheels and these are favorites for assessories and bulk trims.  The one
problem I have had in the last decade is that the manufacturers change style
and size from season to season and if I had not guessed better at the
numbers of units I would need, I find that the newer ones are not compatible
with the first group.
I also have been using clear containers for misc. storage.  The one problem
here is to find boxes that are more pliable than the usual 'shoe box '
items.
Last week I went to enter my shop area and discovered my hot water tank had
blown a pressure gauge.
Woe!  Did thank the gods for plastic storage!!! Amazing how much hot water
can get expelled in a few hours gush. The area also has a floor drain or
things would have been worse.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kristalori History" <jacquelinejbump@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, September 17, 2004 2:08 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Storage and organization


> Please DO NOT store fabric in totes if you can help it. Most people
> don't realize but the plastic often develops tiny pinholes over time
> and this can destroy fabric. This is crucial if you store your fabric
> in a space with concrete floors. If you can't hang your bolts then
> shelve them in an open space with lots of circulating air. If you MUST
> box them use something like the Avon boxes or the boxes used for
> copier paper. I also have a stash sheet made to go in 3 ring binders
> if anyone wants it. (I have to find it but that's easy)
> For patterns all my patterns are copied once on the face side of the
> pattern and then the pattern is put in a dresser that has drawers
> organized by company and then by number (I have over 1,000 patterns so
> this was crucial) the copy of the envelope is then put into a sheet
> protector and into a 3 ring binder that is divided by company and
> number sequence.
>
>
> On Fri, 17 Sep 2004 12:42:29 -0500, Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:
> > Lauren Walker wrote:
> >
> > > beyond the ubiquitous rubbermaid lidded plastic tubs -- am looking for
> > > advice on organizing one's materials. What do you all do to keep the
fabrics
> > > and notions and patterns and similar things under control?
> -- 
> "Pardon me, Lady Tudor Glitz, but telling people things aren't period
isn't
> period."
> Italian Ladies 2005 Calendar
> http://www.lulu.com/kristalori
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 15:37:03 2004
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From: Kristalori History <jacquelinejbump@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Storage and organization
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Yes but if the boxes had or have pinholes are you aware of how much
unknown water could have seeped in and rotted the fabric without you
knowing it only to have you peek in a box some day down the road to
find a mass of rotted soggy fabric? Or that concrete "weeps" and the
resulting moisture often gets into the totes from under the space
between the lid and the box itself?  Also the fabric cannot breathe
and gets musty smelling from storage (you can stop this somewhat with
cedar blocks) The same is true with metal shelveing that I see a lot
of people use. Also a bad idea. If it gets wet at all it begins to
rust and rust climbs. Rust on fabric is often death. Wooden shelving
if you can go it and cardboard lidded boxes.PVC is also ok and the
gases it lets off are minimal. I'd rather wash wet fabric then loose
fabric to rot. Cardboard (and if you want to go all out you can get
acid free tissue paper to wrap it in) lets the fabric breath but keeps
out light that fades our invesment. The other option and the one I use
for the most part is a dresser devoted to fabric. The big 6 drawer
style if you have room for it. The wood allows breathing space and
keeps it dry.


On Fri, 17 Sep 2004 15:26:22 -0400, Lloyd Mitchell
<rmitchell@washjeff.edu> wrote:
> I started out with cardboard boxes in "my first costume life"; replaced them
> with a variety of plastic containers. Even with dehumidifiers , the
> cardboard had to get replaced on an ongoing basis.  I like stackables for
> most trim and notions.  My fabric is on open shelving (18/24" wide, from
> Home Depot...PVC.) Once or twice I was able to find plastic milk crates with
> wheels and these are favorites for assessories and bulk trims.  The one
> problem I have had in the last decade is that the manufacturers change style
> and size from season to season and if I had not guessed better at the
> numbers of units I would need, I find that the newer ones are not compatible
> with the first group.
> I also have been using clear containers for misc. storage.  The one problem
> here is to find boxes that are more pliable than the usual 'shoe box '
> items.
> Last week I went to enter my shop area and discovered my hot water tank had
> blown a pressure gauge.
> Woe!  Did thank the gods for plastic storage!!! Amazing how much hot water
> can get expelled in a few hours gush. The area also has a floor drain or
> things would have been worse.
> Kathleen
-- 
"Pardon me, Lady Tudor Glitz, but telling people things aren't period isn't
period." 
Italian Ladies 2005 Calendar
http://www.lulu.com/kristalori
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 18:10:58 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] raised/stumpwork flowers.
Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2004 00:08:24 +0200
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Hi,
No such a fabric would cost a fortune, but Alexia was here in Copenhagen and
she chose a pale yellow silk taffeta for the dress.
I am making this dress for Alexia from Manhattan, she visited me here this
summer.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, September 17, 2004 8:59 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] raised/stumpwork flowers.


> Hhmm... Wow... I can't wait to see it done! Do you think you'll be able to
> find that fabric?
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Friday, September 17, 2004 10:11 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] raised/stumpwork flowers.
>
>
> > Hi Kathleen,
> > It is the Kyoto book called Fashion, the thick one and the dress is on
> page
> > 69.
> > It also has ruched net on it, and the bouquets is made on top of that.
> > I am thinking about making the net of cotton tulle.
> >
> > Bjarne
> _______________________________________________
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Storage and organization-patterns and trim
References: <BD708B11.78C5%lauren.walker@comcast.net>	<414B2205.7010107@reddawn.net>	<4c5accc8040917110815e91342@mail.gmail.com>	<001c01c49cec$37d46da0$6d5183d1@rmitchellras>
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I only have a few ideas to add. One: I store my patterns in 1 gallon 
plastic freezer bags. For commercial patterns I just make sure the 
envelope is facing out so I can tell what it is; I often do not return 
pattern pieces to the envelope, but just to the bag. For drafted 
patterns, I write on the outside of the bag: date, item.

The other good one I have I got from my drafting teacher (couldn't stand 
her, but this was a good idea). For all your trims, recycle fabric bolt 
cardboards. Wrap your trims around the board, and hang them from pattern 
hooks (or stand them up on a shelf). You can see all your pretty trims 
and they stay neatly organized.


Sg
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Thanks for the suggestions.  In addition to my construction supplies, I also
do general costuming for the public.  The 'turn-over' of stored items is
constant, so checking storage for dampness is not particularly a once in the
while activity.
I also have a whole wall of acid free boxes(28x36) that store vintage and
antique clothing. These are shelved on a wood framework. I try to review the
contents a couple times a year and refold the contents to discourage
permanent folds.  As this collection gets used frequently for "show and
tell" trunk shows, the chore is minimalized. Hanging garments and costumes
are provided with muslin garment bags with the usual care toward hangers. Re
hangers, I do not like the pvc light weights, mostly because ther are not
heavy enough for many of their burdens.
The fabric wall does have one or two metal frames, but once again, these are
set up on a low wooden platform. The total area uses 3 dehumidifiers that
are set continuous May/ October and otherwise, it keeps pretty dry once the
heat goes on in the fall.

Kathleen--- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kristalori History" <jacquelinejbump@gmail.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, September 17, 2004 3:34 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Storage and organization


> Yes but if the boxes had or have pinholes are you aware of how much
> unknown water could have seeped in and rotted the fabric without you
> knowing it only to have you peek in a box some day down the road to
> find a mass of rotted soggy fabric? Or that concrete "weeps" and the
> resulting moisture often gets into the totes from under the space
> between the lid and the box itself?  Also the fabric cannot breathe
> and gets musty smelling from storage (you can stop this somewhat with
> cedar blocks) The same is true with metal shelveing that I see a lot
> of people use. Also a bad idea. If it gets wet at all it begins to
> rust and rust climbs. Rust on fabric is often death. Wooden shelving
> if you can go it and cardboard lidded boxes.PVC is also ok and the
> gases it lets off are minimal. I'd rather wash wet fabric then loose
> fabric to rot. Cardboard (and if you want to go all out you can get
> acid free tissue paper to wrap it in) lets the fabric breath but keeps
> out light that fades our invesment. The other option and the one I use
> for the most part is a dresser devoted to fabric. The big 6 drawer
> style if you have room for it. The wood allows breathing space and
> keeps it dry.
>
>
> On Fri, 17 Sep 2004 15:26:22 -0400, Lloyd Mitchell
> <rmitchell@washjeff.edu> wrote:
> > I started out with cardboard boxes in "my first costume life"; replaced
them
> > with a variety of plastic containers. Even with dehumidifiers , the
> > cardboard had to get replaced on an ongoing basis.  I like stackables
for
> > most trim and notions.  My fabric is on open shelving (18/24" wide, from
> > Home Depot...PVC.) Once or twice I was able to find plastic milk crates
with
> > wheels and these are favorites for assessories and bulk trims.  The one
> > problem I have had in the last decade is that the manufacturers change
style
> > and size from season to season and if I had not guessed better at the
> > numbers of units I would need, I find that the newer ones are not
compatible
> > with the first group.
> > I also have been using clear containers for misc. storage.  The one
problem
> > here is to find boxes that are more pliable than the usual 'shoe box '
> > items.
> > Last week I went to enter my shop area and discovered my hot water tank
had
> > blown a pressure gauge.
> > Woe!  Did thank the gods for plastic storage!!! Amazing how much hot
water
> > can get expelled in a few hours gush. The area also has a floor drain or
> > things would have been worse.
> > Kathleen
> -- 
> "Pardon me, Lady Tudor Glitz, but telling people things aren't period
isn't
> period."
> Italian Ladies 2005 Calendar
> http://www.lulu.com/kristalori
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Storage and organization
Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2004 08:01:59 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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The climate I live in is very dry so I don't have to worry about 
dampness problems.  Are there other issues associated with dryness that 
affect fabrics negatively?

Sylrog

On Sep 18, 2004, at 7:55 AM, Lloyd Mitchell wrote:

> The fabric wall does have one or two metal frames, but once again, 
> these are
> set up on a low wooden platform. The total area uses 3 dehumidifiers 
> that
> are set continuous May/ October and otherwise, it keeps pretty dry 
> once the
> heat goes on in the fall.
>

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At worst I've seen fabrics "break" That's why a dehumidifier or
humidifier is a good plan depending on climate. 65 at all times is
perfect for large amounts of fabric. If we are just talking your
occasional bolt and mostly yardages here and there I wouldn't worry.
The only time you need to worry is if you are storing a LARGE amount
of things. They also make small battery operated humidifiers for
closets.


On Sat, 18 Sep 2004 08:01:59 -0600, Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net> wrote:
> The climate I live in is very dry so I don't have to worry about
> dampness problems.  Are there other issues associated with dryness that
> affect fabrics negatively?
> 
> Sylrog
-- 
"Pardon me, Lady Tudor Glitz, but telling people things aren't period isn't
period." 
Italian Ladies 2005 Calendar
http://www.lulu.com/kristalori
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: corset 
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Carol,

What I did once before I found sources for corset boning - bought a cheap 
lawn rake with the spring steel tines, pulled out the tines (check first to 
make sure you can and they're not welded), pounded out the hook with a 
hammer, then cut to the right length.  Not perfect, and somewhat stiffer 
than actual corset bones, but if you only use them in a few places and use 
the cable ties for the rest, it should work.

A friend also used lawn mower springs (her father repaired lawn mowers) 
straightened and cut to size for corset bones.

At 10:31 PM 9/14/2004, you wrote:
>From: "Carol E. Newby" <ladybug@neei.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] Butterick Corset (#4254) question
>
>Hi All,
>
>Has anyone here made up the Victorian corset (view D) from Butterick's
>pattern # B4254? Would this corset work sufficiently well if Rigelene or a 
>poly boning were used? The actresses in question don't need a tremendous 
>amount of shaping from the corsets and they'll only be worn for 2-3 hours 
>at a time, which
>is why I'm considering alternatives to metal.
>
>Any suggestions for substitutes for the hook and post busks? Would a metal
>bone on each side of the center front and hook-n-eye tape work well enough
>here? One actress has a very quick costume change where the corset should
>be removed, so I'd like to keep the front opening without the expense of
>the busk.
>
>Carol

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: corset 
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Well, I used to use hacksaw blades wrapped in surgical tape for my Tudor
corsets.  Of course, that was 30 years ago  Anne :)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Pierre & Sandy Pettinger
Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2004 12:29 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: corset 


Carol,

What I did once before I found sources for corset boning - bought a cheap 
lawn rake with the spring steel tines, pulled out the tines (check first to 
make sure you can and they're not welded), pounded out the hook with a 
hammer, then cut to the right length.  Not perfect, and somewhat stiffer 
than actual corset bones, but if you only use them in a few places and use 
the cable ties for the rest, it should work.

A friend also used lawn mower springs (her father repaired lawn mowers) 
straightened and cut to size for corset bones.


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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au>
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References: <s1486bb8.081@CSV6.derby.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Upcoming (to the U.S. side of thepond,
	anyway)shows of interest
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2004 1:19 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Upcoming (to the U.S. side of thepond,anyway)shows of
interest


> I've seen all these here in the UK.

I was amazed by the lag time that these haven't even reached the US yet,
here in Aus we've got these about 6 months behind you (or at least Regency
house party I don't know when the Lost Prince was shown over there & can't
remember exactly when it was shown here) but the US appears to be a year or
more behind.

>
> Kate Bunting
> Library, University of Derby
>
> >>> brujne@creighton.edu 14/09/2004 18:39:07 >>>
> >"Regency House Party" starts Nov 3rd. In the tradition of the 1900
> >House, Frontier House, and Colonial House, et.al. Young Brit singles
> >and chaparones spend an English summer at a grand English country
> >house to see how the dos and don'ts of upper-class matchmaking circa
> >1820-1830 impact on modern men and women.
>
> A decade earlier, surely? THe Regent became king (George IV) in 1820.

Yep, it's just finished here in Aus. and I'm pretty certain they said 1815,
I taped the series so if its really important to anybody to know email me &
I'll check.

> >"Henry VIII" Masterpiece Theatre, starts Nov 7th.
>
> >Also this fall is a series the "Lost Prince" set in late 19th-early
> 20th c
> >England about one of the little-known descendants of Queen Victoria.
>
> This was excellent; about George V's autistic youngest son.

Yes I absolutely loved this but the video didn't work, now you've reminded
me of it I might check if I can buy it.
Elizabeth
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
Elizabeth Beaumont              Elizabeth Walpole
             in                         OR                 in
Politarchopolis, Lochac        Canberra, Australia
             ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au

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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] raised/stumpwork flowers.
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What is the apparent lace work over which the ruched net and flowers are
laid?From my viewpoint, it appears to be sort of a venetian sort with a
geometric pattern, about 4" wide.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, September 17, 2004 10:11 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] raised/stumpwork flowers.


> Hi Kathleen,
> It is the Kyoto book called Fashion, the thick one and the dress is on
page
> 69.
> It also has ruched net on it, and the bouquets is made on top of that.
> I am thinking about making the net of cotton tulle.
>
> Bjarne
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Friday, September 17, 2004 3:24 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] raised/stumpwork flowers.
>
>
> > I am following these notes with great anticipation for this up-coming
> > project.  Which page in the Kyoto book are you going to work from? 71?
> > Kathleen
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: corset
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If cost is the real limitation, I understand that the large tie wraps 
work well.  On the other hand a roll (~29 feet) of 1/2" boning from 
Greenberg & Hammer is only $7.80 and 50ft of the 1/4"is only $9.10.  If 
weight is the concern, part rigilene part steel would probably work 
well.  When I first started doing corsets, and asked the list the same 
question back in '98, I got some good advice (I think it was from Margo 
Anderson):  The products made specifically for this purpose are out 
there and work the best. 

If tipping the steel boning is the concern, here is a method which 
should speed it up a bit for you:

 http://www.saragrace.net/3E_4_QEW_Corset.html

Sg


>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] raised/stumpwork flowers.
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Hi,
My same guess. But it is hard to tell because the picture is so small.
I wished i could se the embroidery closer.

Bjarne 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2004 2:01 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] raised/stumpwork flowers.


> What is the apparent lace work over which the ruched net and flowers are
> laid?From my viewpoint, it appears to be sort of a venetian sort with a
> geometric pattern, about 4" wide.
> 
> Kathleen
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Friday, September 17, 2004 10:11 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] raised/stumpwork flowers.
> 
> 
> > Hi Kathleen,
> > It is the Kyoto book called Fashion, the thick one and the dress is on
> page
> > 69.
> > It also has ruched net on it, and the bouquets is made on top of that.
> > I am thinking about making the net of cotton tulle.
> >
> > Bjarne


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At 10:56 AM 9/17/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>there's enough floorspace for the cutting mat to lay
>on the floor--as long as I manage to keep it clean, that is!


I love my folding cutting table. When not in use, it's about 8" wide so it 
is easily out of the way against my cube bookcase. When I need to cut, it 
opens to many feet wide, big enough to cut large skirts in full on it. I 
can also use it with just one leaf open, which is most of the time. Getting 
older and fatter, my back wasn't able to handle the stress of cutting on 
the floor anymore. So I got this at Joanne's with a coupon, and it is well 
worth even the original price.

fwiw,

Kimiko

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Storage and organization
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At 10:21 AM 9/17/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>Thanks for any tips!
>Lauren


Hi Lauren,

I would suggest making the whole room/area you have to work into one big 
organized area. I got my ideas from the book _Dream Sewing Spaces_ by 
Lynette R. Black. This book works great even for those who only have a 
closet or a small space in a larger room to sew in. I used to have to sew 
wherever I could make room, and that meant my stuff was everywhere and 
completely unorganized. I had no idea what I had on hand and what I needed 
to buy. Thankfully, I now have a sewing room all my own.

I have a skinny but long sewing room. On one long side I have bookshelves 
on the wall above the computer station for my costume books, buttons in jar 
racks, nicknacks, and my card files of fabrics (which need updating). My 
small patterns are in boxes at the top, organized by type. My large and my 
hand drafted patterns are in a large box at my feet. They are all waiting 
for better organization this winter. Next to my computer station I have a 
cubicle bookshelf that holds fabrics for upcoming projects (seriously needs 
clearing out and reorganizing.) My TV sits on top, along with a basket 
holding old yarn projects. In front of that bookshelf sits my cutting table 
out of the way, yet blocking the way so my cats don't sit on the fabric in 
these shelves.

The other long side has inexpensive kitchen cabinets, including a pantry 
that holds a chunk of my fabric stash. The cabinets are organized depending 
on usage. The upper cabinets hold lots of plastic shoe boxes for my trims, 
organized by type and color; embroidery section; paint section; polymer 
clay boxes; etc. The lower cabinets have big plastic boxes to hold laces, 
rolls of boning, rolls of cotton batting, and anything else oversized. The 
drawers hold my tools and special stuff. I have marked on the doors with 
computer labels what is in each section to help find things faster. The 
cabinets are topped with a cheap counter, with lights under the upper 
cabinets to light my work there. A calender is on the wall above, and I 
have an Ott-light at the edge that can also light this area, or light the 
sewing area next to it. Behind the light is a multi-drawer cabinet (like 
guys use for screws and nails and stuff in their workshop) I got from Lowes 
that holds most of my small notions and tools. Those are also labeled.

The sewing table is attached between the main cabinet area, and a four 
drawer cabinet, just under the window. It is a counter I got from Lowes, 
and dropped to a comfortable sewing height. I have room for the sewing 
machine and a future serger. Above the four drawer cabinet which holds my 
pressing gear and embroidery machine with stabilizers, is an open cabinet 
that has baskets. Those baskets hold current projects. I have a plastic 
portable drawer thing I got at Office Max that holds more tools that I can 
shuttle between here and the living room (need to revamp that too). It 
holds my iron when not in use otherwise. The side next to the four drawer 
holds my cutting mats, long rulers and other long tools.

The closet holds the bolts of fabrics along one wall, with boxes (both 
plastic and cardboard) of fabric. The plastic boxes will be replaced this 
winter, but it held my older stuff that I didn't care about. My closet also 
holds my finished costumes, but I may move those to the guest room. I also 
have my dying pots that will get moved to the garage once that area is 
cleared and set up for dying. The door to the closet holds a rack on one 
side, and an unused ironing board holder on the other side, which just 
holds a bag for the scraps.

The other tips I can suggest is to work on a couple of projects at a time, 
and to make time to clean up after yourself after each project is done (or 
more often with longer projects). Since my things are basically organized 
with labels, I try to put things away as I can, but my cabinet counter 
seems to be a current dumping ground, which is fine until I want to 
photograph something or need to space to spread things out. Keeping 
organized is a daily fight with myself, which is odd since I used to be 
quite organized when I am at an outside job. I am also getting my fabric & 
trim stashes organized using a card file system, with snips of appropriate 
fabric. This has really helped me out as I no longer buy something only to 
realize I already have something similar in my stash. My goal for this 
winter is to have everything completely organized, from my books and 
patterns into a computer system, to my untouched laces.

hth,

Kimiko

Kimiko Small
Owner ~ DreamTime Studios
http://www.dreamtime-studios.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <8AFF1656DE4AB348973023624E8F40192C3A55@MDX-CLX-DC1.uni.mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Wet weather garb/English Summers (WAS: Court
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<snip>
> When
> > Jane and I were over there 2 years ago, it didn't rain once! Okay, so
> I saw
> > a bare handful of raindrops my first day in Dublin, but  that was it!
> > Amazing humidity, though! --sue, from (usually) much drier MT
>
> That's the *other* problem with the English climate - what heat we get
> is usually wet/sticky heat.
>
> Teddy

But it's enough heat for everyone to race outside spend as much of the day
as possible half undressed outside on whatever sunny area is available
(often the fire escape) to get a 'tan' and come in as red as a lobster. OK
this is only 6 months worth of my own experience talking but I've heard this
general sentiment repeated by a few 'natives'.
Elizabeth
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
Elizabeth Beaumont              Elizabeth Walpole
             in                         OR                 in
Politarchopolis, Lochac        Canberra, Australia
             ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au

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Hello, all -

Once again I am appealing to your spirit of helpfulness.  I received the 
following request for information by way of being the Corresponding 
Secretary for the International Costumers' Guild.  Please respond directly 
to Marissa if you have any suggestions for her.  Thanks to all in advance.

Sandy Pettinger
Corresponding Secretary, ICG

Forwarded message.........................

>X-Sender: purplefrog83@hotmail.com
>From: "marissa cassin" <purplefrog83@hotmail.com>
>To: corr-secretary@costume.org
>Subject: career path
>Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2004 05:36:17 +0000
>
>To whom it may concern,
>
>I am currently a student at The University of Auckland, New Zealand, 5 
>weeks away from completing my Bachelor of Arts (Honours) in Art History. 
>Originally I had planned to complete my Masters next year with a one year 
>thesis, but have reevaluated my options. My dream career would be a dress 
>historian, whether examining, conserving, or exhibiting costumes of the 
>past. I am currently undertaking a research report on the changes in dress 
>styles from the 18th - 19th centuries, which i have found enlightening. It 
>appears that there are no appropriate supervisors (for a thesis) or 
>graduate courses offered in New Zealand that would help in my chosen 
>career. Do you know of any courses or avenues I should explore in this 
>field of work? Any assistance you can give me will be of great help.
>
>Kind Regards
>Marissa Cassin
>Auckland
>New Zealand

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Status: RO

I agree!

We were watching the outdoor display at Leeds Royal Armouries on a sunny,
warm day this time last year. All the English people were out in the sun,
and Wayne and I were the only people sitting in the shade. Us Australians
seem to have a cultural tendancy to clump together under the shade when it's
sunny, and just can't understand those who don't. Maybe it's because we all
know too many people who've had skin cancers.

Glenda.

----- Original Message ----- 
>
> But it's enough heat for everyone to race outside spend as much of the day
> as possible half undressed outside on whatever sunny area is available
> (often the fire escape) to get a 'tan' and come in as red as a lobster. OK
> this is only 6 months worth of my own experience talking but I've heard
this
> general sentiment repeated by a few 'natives'.
> Elizabeth


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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Corset
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I found a really cost effective and simple way to bone my corsets.  Go to 
your local hardware store and look at the large bundles of wood stacked up.  
They are all strapped with either a plastic or metal material.  I found the 
thicker plastic strapping to be perfect to use in making corsets.  The 
hardware store throws the stuff away so you can take as much as you need 
home with you for FREE!!!  You can cut it with sharp scissors or snips and 
it is super stable.

What ever option you choose, good luck to you!!!

:)  jessica

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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 00:30:58 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Quilling
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At 10:51 PM 9/14/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>Ok I'm working on a polonaise (PP 1880's polonaise that I've made
>before in plaid) and my idea is to trim the lining fabric around the
>edge of the hem and neck and etc. Does anyone know how to quill fabric
>or have instructions online? I did it eons ago but cannot for the life
>of me recall how to do it.
>
>B.


Hi B.

You know, I was hoping someone would answer this one, because I have never 
heard of quilling before, and at first thought it was a typo for quilting, 
but that doesn't match the rest of the sentences. So, do you mind 
explaining what quilling is?

Thanks,

Kimiko

Kimiko Small
Owner ~ DreamTime Studios
http://www.dreamtime-studios.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Wet weather garb/English Summers (WAS: Court
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True. The authorities keep warning us about the dangers of skin cancer,
but in most summers hot sunny days are still a rare enough treat for
people to be tempted to make the most of them.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> glendar@compassnet.com.au 20/09/2004 05:43:31 >>>
I agree!

We were watching the outdoor display at Leeds Royal Armouries on a
sunny,
warm day this time last year. All the English people were out in the
sun,
and Wayne and I were the only people sitting in the shade. Us
Australians
seem to have a cultural tendancy to clump together under the shade when
it's
sunny, and just can't understand those who don't. Maybe it's because we
all
know too many people who've had skin cancers.

Glenda.

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Kate M Bunting wrote:

> True. The authorities keep warning us about the dangers of skin cancer,
> but in most summers hot sunny days are still a rare enough treat for
> people to be tempted to make the most of them.

Here in the NE USA, there are plenty of sunny days, but even at SCA 
events (where in our time period, head coverings were 90% de rigeur), 
there are few who cover their heads.  (CV strikes pose of Victorian 
Distress.)

And it's worse among the general population.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du PrĂŠ Argent

Register to vote!  Don't let that other guy win!
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Quilling
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 06:30:41 -0500
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I too am curious as the only quilling that I know of are the Native American
Indian quillwork which is a craft that works with porcupine quills and the
craft that makes pictures out of rolled strips of paper.

De

-----Original Message-----
At 10:51 PM 9/14/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>Ok I'm working on a polonaise (PP 1880's polonaise that I've made
>before in plaid) and my idea is to trim the lining fabric around the
>edge of the hem and neck and etc. Does anyone know how to quill fabric
>or have instructions online? I did it eons ago but cannot for the life
>of me recall how to do it.
>
>B.


Hi B.

You know, I was hoping someone would answer this one, because I have never
heard of quilling before, and at first thought it was a typo for quilting,
but that doesn't match the rest of the sentences. So, do you mind
explaining what quilling is?

Thanks,

Kimiko


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(With tongue stuck in cheek) Except for those who seem to have a baseball
cap permanently installed on their head what ever their costume might be!

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cynthia Virtue" <cvirtue+dated+1111229829.eef489@thibault.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, September 20, 2004 6:59 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Wet weather garb/English Summers (WAS: Court


> Kate M Bunting wrote:
>
> > True. The authorities keep warning us about the dangers of skin cancer,
> > but in most summers hot sunny days are still a rare enough treat for
> > people to be tempted to make the most of them.
>
> Here in the NE USA, there are plenty of sunny days, but even at SCA
> events (where in our time period, head coverings were 90% de rigeur),
> there are few who cover their heads.  (CV strikes pose of Victorian
> Distress.)
>
> And it's worse among the general population.
>
> -- 
> Cynthia Virtue and/or
> Cynthia du PrĂŠ Argent
>
> Register to vote!  Don't let that other guy win!
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: "kim baird" <kbaird@cableone.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Quilling
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 07:41:18 -0500
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"Quilling or paper filigree is the art of rolling thin strips of paper
into different shapes and using the shapes to form designs."

You can see some here:
http://www.handcraftersvillage.com/quilling.htm

I think B must be referring to a similar technique done with cording,
which I suspect actually has a different name--just can't recall it.

Kim


 

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From: "kim baird" <kbaird@cableone.net>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Quilling
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 07:45:28 -0500
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Maybe "B" is referring to this technique, as explained by Merriam
Webster:

quilling

\Quill"ing\, n. (a) A band of linen, muslin, or the like, fluted,
folded, or plaited so as somewhat to resemble a row of quills.

Kim


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From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Partially O.T. - Closets (WAS: Storage and organization)
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> The closet holds the bolts of fabrics along one wall, with  boxes
(both 
> plastic and cardboard) of fabric. 

Several of the posts on this subject all from (I think) from people in
the U.S have mentioned a closet in a way that suggests

a) that it is a built in one like a small room leading off the room they
are describing, and 

b) that there is an assumption that there is *always* such a closet in
such rooms

which leads me to as, do the majority of American homes have built in
closets in al the rooms?

The houses and flats I have experience of in England occasionally have
them in one or two of the bedrooms, but more often don't have anything
of the sort and rely on free standing cupboards/wardrobes or furniture
that is "built in" as an addition to the room rather than built in as
part of the structure of the house?

As a nod in the direction of costuming content - when we had our sewing
room built on to the existing house, I considered including such a
closet in the plans but decided it would be too restricting of the
layout of furniture in the finished room.

Teddy
(of the unexpectedly aroused curiosity)
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 14:59:10 +0100
From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Wet weather garb/English Summers (WAS: Court
To: h-costume@indra.com
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> > That's the *other* problem with the English climate - what heat we
get 
> > is usually wet/sticky heat.
> >
> > Teddy
> 
> But it's enough heat for everyone to race outside spend as 
> much of the day as possible half undressed outside on 
> whatever sunny area is available (often the fire escape) to 
> get a 'tan' and come in as red as a lobster. 

<laugh!> That's very true.

Teddy


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Partially O.T. - Closets (WAS: Storage and organization)
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Our house which was built about 1918 has a few built-ins like in the kitchen
and diningroom.  The living room has a generous closet.  Up stairs, two of
the bedrooms have original closets and the other two had closets installed
sometime in the 1950s.  As a New Englander, most houses I know built before
the 20th C did not have separate space, especially for hanging garments.
The "cubbyhole and press" were the usual storage accoutrements. When some of
these spaces were renovated for the 20th C, closets of all kinds (including
WC) were installed.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Teddy" <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, September 20, 2004 9:57 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Partially O.T. - Closets (WAS: Storage and
organization)


>
> > The closet holds the bolts of fabrics along one wall, with  boxes
> (both
> > plastic and cardboard) of fabric.
>
> Several of the posts on this subject all from (I think) from people in
> the U.S have mentioned a closet in a way that suggests
>
> a) that it is a built in one like a small room leading off the room they
> are describing, and
>
> b) that there is an assumption that there is *always* such a closet in
> such rooms
>
> which leads me to as, do the majority of American homes have built in
> closets in al the rooms?
>
> The houses and flats I have experience of in England occasionally have
> them in one or two of the bedrooms, but more often don't have anything
> of the sort and rely on free standing cupboards/wardrobes or furniture
> that is "built in" as an addition to the room rather than built in as
> part of the structure of the house?
>
> As a nod in the direction of costuming content - when we had our sewing
> room built on to the existing house, I considered including such a
> closet in the plans but decided it would be too restricting of the
> layout of furniture in the finished room.
>
> Teddy
> (of the unexpectedly aroused curiosity)
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Partially O.T. - Closets (WAS: Storage and organization)
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On Mon, 20 Sep 2004, Teddy wrote:

> which leads me to as, do the majority of American homes have built in
> closets in al the rooms?

Generally, yes, in the bedrooms at least, and sometimes in other rooms as
well. Some are shallow, just a few feet sectioned off the length of a
wall, with sliding doors to provide access across the breadth of it.
Others are like little rooms, with doors -- these are "walk-in" closets.

Plus, the front hall typically has a coat closet, and often in other halls
(or off the kitchen, bathroom, or laundry area) you'll find a utility
closet or linen closet. Most Americans would consider it unusual for a
bedroom not to have a closet, even in older houses. Ample closet space is
a huge selling point for homes and apartments, and there's a whole
industry based around closet organization (you can put in shelving and
dividers and hanging facilities yourself, or hire a specialist to do it
for you).

> The houses and flats I have experience of in England occasionally have
> them in one or two of the bedrooms, but more often don't have anything
> of the sort and rely on free standing cupboards/wardrobes or furniture
> that is "built in" as an addition to the room rather than built in as
> part of the structure of the house?

My husband, who lived in England for some time, explained to me that this
has to do with a long-standing tax regulation. Houses were taxed based on
the number of rooms, and closets counted as extra rooms (or something like
that -- maybe it was number of doors?). I don't know if the rule is still
in effect, but obviously it was in place when many English houses were
built.

Even if it is in effect still, I don't know whether it would apply to
additions or modifications made to existing houses. Though I do recall an
English friend who chose to add an attic storage to his daughter's room
talking about this rule as well. I don't know if he was referring to
anything affecting him now, as opposed to explaining to us why the room
had no closet.

Freestanding wardrobes are almost unheard of here -- they're considered
more decorative than practical. They're a must in England.

--Robin


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In America the amount of closet space is directly related to the age of the house. In older (19th century) houses, there may not be much closet space- maybe just small ones in the bedrooms. In most houses built in the later half of the 20th century, especially ones built in the 80's and 90's, the closets tend to be very big, sometimes amounting to small dressing rooms. One common type of closet is made with bi-fold doors and covers the length of a wall. Makes furniture arrangement tricky but is great in terms of storage and accessibility. Free-standing cupboards and wardrobes are definitely the exception rather than the rule over here. Fashions in closet space have changed over the years, but purpose built is definitely the most common......in my area.....YMMV.


Karen

I'll show you mine the next time you come for a visit!

-- Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk> wrote:


> The closet holds the bolts of fabrics along one wall, with  boxes
(both 
> plastic and cardboard) of fabric. 

Several of the posts on this subject all from (I think) from people in
the U.S have mentioned a closet in a way that suggests

a) that it is a built in one like a small room leading off the room they
are describing, and 

b) that there is an assumption that there is *always* such a closet in
such rooms

which leads me to as, do the majority of American homes have built in
closets in al the rooms?

The houses and flats I have experience of in England occasionally have
them in one or two of the bedrooms, but more often don't have anything
of the sort and rely on free standing cupboards/wardrobes or furniture
that is "built in" as an addition to the room rather than built in as
part of the structure of the house?

As a nod in the direction of costuming content - when we had our sewing
room built on to the existing house, I considered including such a
closet in the plans but decided it would be too restricting of the
layout of furniture in the finished room.

Teddy
(of the unexpectedly aroused curiosity)
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>
> Freestanding wardrobes are almost unheard of here -- they're considered
> more decorative than practical. They're a must in England.

My folks are from rural Appalachia.  My grandmother's house had (well, it
still does) one closet and that was in a bedroom that was added later.  My
grandfather built the house sometime around WW2. However, there was at least 
one wardrobe in each bedroom.  My great-grandfather's house was the same 
way except it had no closets.

Some of the wardrobes were made to hold long garments -- others had drawers
in the bottom where you could put folded clothes.

Susan
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Partially O.T. - Closets (WAS: Storage and organization)
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> Our house which was built about 1918 has a few built-ins like in the
> kitchen
> and diningroom.  The living room has a generous closet.  Up stairs, two of
> the bedrooms have original closets and the other two had closets installed
> sometime in the 1950s.  As a New Englander, most houses I know built
> before
> the 20th C did not have separate space, especially for hanging garments.

I just wanted to add that most houses from the 19th century also had
basements for storage.  Most "modern" homes lack this feature (at least on
the west coast) and I think that is why there is much more storage space
in the main body of the house.  I think people in the midwest and such
still can have basements in more modern homes.  But for many people on the
west coast, the closets and the garage are the main storage areas for
everything!

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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Quilling is the art of rolling long, thin (1/8th" wide) folded strips of paper into intricate designs.  There is a paper quilling book out now. I imagine that the quilling they are referring to would be the same concept applied to fabric rolled thin folded strips.  I'm envisioning how the art of origami can use both fabric and paper...? 


--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 
Emer's Needle Wares


-------------- Original message -------------- 

> At 10:51 PM 9/14/2004 -0400, you wrote: 
> >Ok I'm working on a polonaise (PP 1880's polonaise that I've made 
> >before in plaid) and my idea is to trim the lining fabric around the 
> >edge of the hem and neck and etc. Does anyone know how to quill fabric 
> >or have instructions online? I did it eons ago but cannot for the life 
> >of me recall how to do it. 
> > 
> >B. 
> 
> 
> Hi B. 
> 
> You know, I was hoping someone would answer this one, because I have never 
> heard of quilling before, and at first thought it was a typo for quilting, 
> but that doesn't match the rest of the sentences. So, do you mind 
> explaining what quilling is? 
> 
> Thanks, 
> 
> Kimiko 
> 
> Kimiko Small 
> Owner ~ DreamTime Studios 
> http://www.dreamtime-studios.com 
> Fresno, CA, USA 
> 
> "When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell 
> 
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From: "Helen  Pinto" <hpinto@mindspring.com>
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References: <8AFF1656DE4AB348973023624E8F40192C3A75@MDX-CLX-DC1.uni.mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Partially O.T. - Closets (WAS: Storage and organization)
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Teddy wrote:
> do the majority of American homes have built in closets in al the rooms?

Closets in American homes are something of an obsession and a major selling
point for the real estate agent.  In the northeastern US, closets in the
bedrooms and one somewhere near the main entrance have been pretty much the
standard since the beginning of the 20th century.  Other common ones are
pantry closets in the kitchens, linen closets near or in the bathroom, and
general storage closets anywhere they can fit.  Older homes were
retro-fitted, and since the 50's, master bedrooms usually have two.  The
same standard applies to apartments.  Like everything else, closet size has
been expanding- recently built McMansions have walk-in closets (two, his and
hers) in the master bedroom larger than my last apartment.  And then, there
are the garages...
                         -Helen/Aidan


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From: Ms Cynthia Schrage <pioneercynthia@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] stumpwork/extensive ornamentation
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I love hearing about how people put ornamentation on
the projects that they're making.

I just finished a weekend re-enactment of the
Underground Railroad. I made three copies of the
Simplicity 7212 for some ladies and one for me. They
all had NO trim at all, and while that was very easy
to do (it had to be, I only had three weeks to make
all three of their dresses + being a mom + full time
college + church organist), it got kind of boring
after a while. (Two of the dresses were made of
flannel that was supplied to me, and I'll never work
with flannel again!!!!)

I think the next dress I make will have SOMETHING on
it, even if just applied braid.

Does anyone have a good source of Soutache Braid, or
other trims from the Antebellum U.S. period?

Thanks,
Cynthia

P.S. Extinct Disease thread is interesting, but can we
get back to topic?


		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] stumpwork/extensive ornamentation
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Have you tried "Cheeptrims.com"? I took time last spring to check out their
vast inventory and was Amazed at what is available in volume for
their"Cheep" prices.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ms Cynthia Schrage" <pioneercynthia@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, September 20, 2004 11:38 AM
Subject: [h-cost] stumpwork/extensive ornamentation


> I love hearing about how people put ornamentation on
> the projects that they're making.
>
> I just finished a weekend re-enactment of the
> Underground Railroad. I made three copies of the
> Simplicity 7212 for some ladies and one for me. They
> all had NO trim at all, and while that was very easy
> to do (it had to be, I only had three weeks to make
> all three of their dresses + being a mom + full time
> college + church organist), it got kind of boring
> after a while. (Two of the dresses were made of
> flannel that was supplied to me, and I'll never work
> with flannel again!!!!)
>
> I think the next dress I make will have SOMETHING on
> it, even if just applied braid.
>
> Does anyone have a good source of Soutache Braid, or
> other trims from the Antebellum U.S. period?
>
> Thanks,
> Cynthia
>
> P.S. Extinct Disease thread is interesting, but can we
> get back to topic?
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Take Yahoo! Mail with you! Get it on your mobile phone.
> http://mobile.yahoo.com/maildemo
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Partially O.T. - Closets (WAS: Storage and organization)
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seamstrix@juno.com wrote:

>In America the amount of closet space is directly related to the age of the house. In older (19th century) houses, there may not be much closet space- maybe just small ones in the bedrooms. 
>
I grew up in an large unremodeled 1860 farmhouse in the mid-Atlantic 
states.  There was a closet under the stairs that rose from the dining 
room (an awkward space with no other good use), and  a built-in china 
cabinet in the dining room.  No kitchen cabinets, though we inherited 
one of those old freestanding ones from the original owners.  I think it 
was late 19th century, rather than mid.  Rickety open pantry shelves.  
(Also open shelves in the root cellar and some kind of open storage in 
the wine cellar; these backed onto the pantry but you had to get to them 
from the outside of the house.)  Upstairs, four large main rooms usable 
variously as bedrooms or parlors, each with a shallow closet (too 
shallow for hangers) with a row of hooks screwed into the back wall.  No 
hall closet.  The original owners used a hallstand and so did my parents.

Every room in the ground floor and the second floor (the house is built 
on a hill) opens onto a porch or balcony; there is one on every side of 
the house.  On the second floor, each room opens onto two porches or 
balconies, on different sides of the room (because those rooms are all 
on corners). For the small porches, in the middle, each pair of rooms 
has a door not directly to the porch but to a little room that has a 
door to the porch.  My family does not know what those rooms were used 
for.  Each one has three doors (to one room, the other room, and the 
porch), so you can't put too much stuff in there without blocking a 
door.  However, there was plenty of room for a wardrobe on the free 
wall, and my parents put wardrobes there for extra closet space.  There 
was also plenty of room to dress in there if you were so inclined.

On the third and top floor, two good-sized attic rooms, usable as 
bedrooms or for storage (if you didn't mind no fireplace (or other heat) 
and no insulation; my family used one as a bedroom for a long time even 
so). Plus a room-sized landing in the middle that may well have been 
used as a bedroom or sitting room even though it did not close off.  The 
third floor had no closets (and you could only see the tops of the 
porches, not walk onto them).

Attics and basements used to serve many of the same purposes as closets 
even if they didn't have any closets.  People would put out-of-season 
clothes in the attic till they were needed--as well as all kinds of 
other stuff.

I am not sure if houses are often built with attics any more.  I now 
live in a geographic area where there is no snow, therefore even many 
old buildings have flat roofs with no attic. Likewise, this area has few 
dug-in basements. However, there is often a large garage on the ground 
floor of the house, typically used as a laundry room, work area for 
amateur repairs and carpentry, and miscellaneous storage.  And possibly 
a car, but the car can be parked outside if necessary.

Apartment living is not new, but people who live in modern apartments 
tend to be very concerned about closets because they can't store things 
in a garage or attic.  And if modern houses elsewhere are being built 
without attics (maybe there have been improvements in roof design?  I'm 
no architect), that would explain a few things.

>In most houses built in the later half of the 20th century, especially ones built in the 80's and 90's, the closets tend to be very big, sometimes amounting to small dressing rooms. 
>
Part of this is just the modern yearning for THE HOME, also exemplified 
by the ads for very fancy bedding and cookware.  The thinking seems to 
be that if your job allows you to spend hardly any time at home it had 
better be restful, even luxurious time. 

There is also the theory that if you organize stuff you have more 
space.  I have my doubts, but since I dislike organizing objects I don't 
really know.  I just dig through stuff and regard it as a pleasant 
journey of discovery.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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From: "Dianne & Greg Stucki" <goofy1@suscom.net>
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References: <8AFF1656DE4AB348973023624E8F40192C3A75@MDX-CLX-DC1.uni.mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Partially O.T. - Closets (WAS: Storage and organization)
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Teddy" <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, September 20, 2004 9:57 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Partially O.T. - Closets (WAS: Storage and
organization)


>
> > The closet holds the bolts of fabrics along one wall, with  boxes
> (both
> > plastic and cardboard) of fabric.
>
> Several of the posts on this subject all from (I think) from people in
> the U.S have mentioned a closet in a way that suggests
>
> a) that it is a built in one like a small room leading off the room they
> are describing, and
>
> b) that there is an assumption that there is *always* such a closet in
> such rooms
>
> which leads me to as, do the majority of American homes have built in
> closets in al the rooms?

Not in all rooms..my house has three bedrooms, with a closet in each, plus a
hall closet and a coat closet in the living room. (Which is really full--for
someone who hates wearing them, I sure have a lot of coats!).  Since we
don't hang the kids clothes, their closet is a giant toybox. (Yes, they have
way too many toys.) I store a fair amount of my fabric in the closet in the
baby's room, especially the 60" wide stuff on rolls. We also have a two car
garage, a basement, and an attic. The basement is too damp for much storage,
and the attic gets mice in the winter, but oh how I love having a garage!

I'm rather fond of that basement, too, when hurricanes and tornadoes are
threatening!

Dianne

>


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From: Kristalori History <jacquelinejbump@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Quilling
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There were a few replies to this so I'm only going to leave one
response on. Back in the day when I was about 14 (I'm 32 now) my great
grandmother taught me to quill. I know it's not a regional term
because I've read in other books some from the 40's. I'm more inclined
to think it's a term more heavy in use for Victorian and Edwardian
fashion. The definition *I* found was this:

verb quilled, quilling

1. To form (material in a ruff) into tubular folds.
2. To wind (thread, etc) on to a bobbin.

Etymology: C.
We'd use bias made from the trim fabric and roll it and then pin and
sew where we wanted it. Mostly geometric shapes but I've seen a cat on
a skirt once. And yes I've seen the paper quilling and have done it
years ago in school but somehow I don't think this is the same method
for some reason.
If you look her:
http://vintagedancers.org/costume_1860_det.html 
Near the bottom (6)you will see an illustration labeled:

Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, February 1862 
Description of the colored plate, (Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine,
February 1862)
and farther along in the description you read:
The body is made of plain white silk, and the berthé of white crępe,
cut pointed, and ornamented with two rows of quilled silk ribbon

And at http://www.harriets.com/Teadress.htm among her patterns is one for:
51-L
Louise, c. 1862
Peterson's Magazine. Pattern includes fitted bodice, basic 1860's
skirt and short cape. Linen/silk mix with quilled self-trim on cape,
skirt and bodice neckline and sleeves.

If you Google under quilled fabric dress trim around page two all
sorts of Victorian gowns start popping up.

Now again my problem is recalling *how* to do this method of trim not
*what* it is. I'm hoping someone else has done it and can explain
(hopefully with pictures cause I'm a bit dense with verbal
explanations)

Bice
 
On Mon, 20 Sep 2004 15:07:18 +0000, gia_gavino@comcast.net
<gia_gavino@comcast.net> wrote:
> Quilling is the art of rolling long, thin (1/8th" wide) folded strips of paper into intricate designs.  There is a paper quilling book out now. I imagine that the quilling they are referring to would be the same concept applied to fabric rolled thin folded strips.  I'm envisioning how the art of origami can use both fabric and paper...?
> 
> --
> Slan go foill
> Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri
> Emer's Needle Wares
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------- Original message --------------
> 
> > At 10:51 PM 9/14/2004 -0400, you wrote:
> > >Ok I'm working on a polonaise (PP 1880's polonaise that I've made
> > >before in plaid) and my idea is to trim the lining fabric around the
> > >edge of the hem and neck and etc. Does anyone know how to quill fabric
> > >or have instructions online? I did it eons ago but cannot for the life
> > >of me recall how to do it.
> > >
> > >B.
> >
> >
> > Hi B.
> >
> > You know, I was hoping someone would answer this one, because I have never
> > heard of quilling before, and at first thought it was a typo for quilting,
> > but that doesn't match the rest of the sentences. So, do you mind
> > explaining what quilling is?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Kimiko
> >
> > Kimiko Small
> > Owner ~ DreamTime Studios
> > http://www.dreamtime-studios.com
> > Fresno, CA, USA
> >
> > "When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 



-- 
"Pardon me, Lady Tudor Glitz, but telling people things aren't period isn't
period." 
Italian Ladies 2005 Calendar
http://www.lulu.com/kristalori

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Partially O.T. - Closets (WAS: Storage and organization)
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>>>>>>
I just wanted to add that most houses from the 19th century also had
basements for storage.  Most "modern" homes lack this feature (at least on
the west coast) and I think that is why there is much more storage space
in the main body of the house.  I think people in the midwest and such
still can have basements in more modern homes.  But for many people on the
west coast, the closets and the garage are the main storage areas for
everything!
>>>>>>

There's some houses in this area (Omaha, NE) without basements -- some 
relatives of mine moved into a neighborhood that was originally built immediately 
post-WWII, and it was faster to get the houses up without basements.  And then 
when that neighborhood was flattened in the 1975 tornado, it was faster to 
rebuild on the original slab....  However, most houses continue to have basements. 
 If you're digging that deep to put the footings in, you might as well put a 
floor at the bottom of the hole and get usable space out of it.

Leah
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Teddy asked:

> do the majority of American homes have built in
> closets in al the rooms?

The modern ones mostly do (after 1900). Many older homes do not, but the 
older homes also tend to have built-in cupboards, small rooms formerly 
used for other purposes, and surplus hallways that may have been 
intended for dual use as storage areas.

My mother (don't worry, there's costuming content here) has owned 2 19th 
century houses with the odd surplus-hallway. They did end up being used 
as closets in both the homes, but I think that the original intent of 
one may have been top get from the bedroom to the middle room (a large 
room we had divided in half to provide a room for myself and my sister) 
without going through the kitchen. The other house's closet/hall may 
have been intended for access between the men's parlor and one of the 
two original bedrooms. We also depended mostly on wardrobes for clothing 
storage throughout my childhood.

The other houses we lived in had closets, but, being built between 1910 
and 1935, all closets were Very Small by modern standards (less roomy 
than a reflects the changing attitude towards clothing - people didn't 
have as many clothes that required hanging up before now. Mostly 
clothing was kept in furniture, and only peices that you needed to have 
ready (instead of folded and put up) were kept in the closet. For 
example, my husband hangs EVERYTHING up - t-shirts, jeans, sweats, as 
well as suits and buttondown shirts. I think he learned this in the 
military, as things stay fresh-pressed longer when you hang them.

Currently, mom lives in a Federal-style home built in the 1840's or 50's 
and it has ... no closets. Unless you count the buttery/pantry, the 
dressing-room, the later interior cellar stair, and the pot cupboard.
It also has few or no hallways, with the two that do exist present to 
house staircases. To access the nursery (which will become Mom's 
costuming shop), one has to exit her bedroom and go through what we 
guess was a dressingroom, which is a narrow room about 8 feet by 20 (20 
feet is the interior width of the house, and nearly all the rooms are as 
wide as this) with windows at both ends. Mother has subdivided this and 
installed a small bathroom at one end, making the other half her 
closet/dressing room, by installing rods and shelves along the long 
walls and a dressing table in front of the window.

OBCostume content (besides my history of closets bit above): Mom is 
planning to get back into professionally producing reenactment and 
museum quality reproduction clothing again. She wants to focus on the US 
Civil War, as there is so much local history there and family history 
involved in the conflict locally.

Maura

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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 19:38:34 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Wet weather garb/English Summers (WAS: Court
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I had a friend from NZ, many years ago, who opined that what you should 
do is get out and expose your skin to the sun in the spring, about 
April, when the sun is less strong.  We pointed out that doing that in 
Scotland was more likely to lead to frostbite than sunburn!

Jean

"This region was the first to develop agnosticism - while other peoples 
were worshipping the sun, we doubted its existence"


Glenda Robinson <glendar@compassnet.com.au> wrote
>I agree!
>
>We were watching the outdoor display at Leeds Royal Armouries on a sunny,
>warm day this time last year. All the English people were out in the sun,
>and Wayne and I were the only people sitting in the shade. Us Australians
>seem to have a cultural tendancy to clump together under the shade when it's
>sunny, and just can't understand those who don't. Maybe it's because we all
>know too many people who've had skin cancers.
>
>Glenda.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>>
>> But it's enough heat for everyone to race outside spend as much of the day
>> as possible half undressed outside on whatever sunny area is available
>> (often the fire escape) to get a 'tan' and come in as red as a lobster. OK
>> this is only 6 months worth of my own experience talking but I've heard
>this
>> general sentiment repeated by a few 'natives'.
>> Elizabeth
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Quilling
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Hi,
I believe i have seen very beautifull laces, where the pattern is made of
sewing on a very thin bias ribbon. I dont recall what they call those laces,
but they surely are beautifull.
Could you also do it with a wool thread? Thick one off cause to make a
beautifull pattern?

Bjarne


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Sep 20 14:54:09 2004
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Subject: [h-cost] stupid stupid thing not to do.
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You wont believe it!
I ordered many embroidery books some time ago from Amazon.
I dont know how, but appearently i ordered the books from USA Amazon.
2 of the books came this evening and i had to pay costums
WWWWWWWWWWWWWWWhhhhhhhhhaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
How stupid can you be?
And there are 3 more shipments of books to come.
I thoaght i had ordered the books from England, and i therefore did not
expect to pay for costums.

Bjarne who has enjoyed the books anyway!







Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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From: Kristalori History <jacquelinejbump@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Quilling
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I don't see why not. I've only seen it in ribbon and bias tape but I'm
betting if the lace is thin enough and possible stiff enough to hold
the curl I don't see why not. I've seen it done with threads but
that's a different type of work and not quilling.


On Mon, 20 Sep 2004 20:50:06 +0200, Bjarne og Leif Drews
<drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
> Hi,
> I believe i have seen very beautifull laces, where the pattern is made of
> sewing on a very thin bias ribbon. I dont recall what they call those laces,
> but they surely are beautifull.
> Could you also do it with a wool thread? Thick one off cause to make a
> beautifull pattern?
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 



-- 
"Pardon me, Lady Tudor Glitz, but telling people things aren't period isn't
period." 
Italian Ladies 2005 Calendar
http://www.lulu.com/kristalori
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Quilling
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 16:31:46 -0500
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Is there an up close picture to show what quilling looks like? I am have a
hard time envisioning it.
Is it anything like a ribbon bouillon, wrapped bar ribbon or folded ribbon
stitch?
Lace that has a woven band which some use bias ribbon, my grandmother called
it tape lace.
Someone told me it was called Battenburg lace.

http://cinderella.safeshopper.com/68/437.htm?803
http://www.goantiques.com/search/images.jsp?id=624372

but some sites show cutwork and are calling it battenburg lace.

http://www.prestigiousdames.com/ronni/Christmas/Battenburg1.html



-----Original Message-----

I don't see why not. I've only seen it in ribbon and bias tape but I'm
betting if the lace is thin enough and possible stiff enough to hold
the curl I don't see why not. I've seen it done with threads but
that's a different type of work and not quilling.


On Mon, 20 Sep 2004 20:50:06 +0200, Bjarne og Leif Drews
<drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
> Hi,
> I believe i have seen very beautifull laces, where the pattern is made of
> sewing on a very thin bias ribbon. I dont recall what they call those
laces,
> but they surely are beautifull.
> Could you also do it with a wool thread? Thick one off cause to make a
> beautifull pattern?
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



--
"Pardon me, Lady Tudor Glitz, but telling people things aren't period isn't
period."
Italian Ladies 2005 Calendar
http://www.lulu.com/kristalori
_______________________________________________
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Quilling
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 23:46:46 +0200
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Hi,
Your grandmother is right, but tapelace is a bobbin lace all way. The tape
in the lace is bobbin made two.
Battenberg lace is a sewed lace. The tape is stitched with bars, that
connects the other parts of the lace.
Russian tape laces is the most known of this kind.
The lace i was thinking about, has the tape machinesewed to the net.

Sorry i dont remember the name.

Bjarne


> Lace that has a woven band which some use bias ribbon, my grandmother
called
> it tape lace.
> Someone told me it was called Battenburg lace.
>
> http://cinderella.safeshopper.com/68/437.htm?803
> http://www.goantiques.com/search/images.jsp?id=624372
>
> but some sites show cutwork and are calling it battenburg lace.
>
> http://www.prestigiousdames.com/ronni/Christmas/Battenburg1.html
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From: Kristalori History <jacquelinejbump@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Quilling
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*I* have never seen quilling done with lace. I've only seen it done
with self fabric or bias tape.
Paper quilling which has the same general look can be seen here:
http://www.stampin.com/graphics/tips/papquil1.jpg

This: http://www.refalo.com/bobbinlace/tape.html is tape lace.
Battenberg can be seen here: http://www.battenberglace.com/

Again quilling doesn't use lace it's fabric made very narrow and then
attached to the garment in some way.
Bice


On Mon, 20 Sep 2004 16:31:46 -0500, otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
> Is there an up close picture to show what quilling looks like? I am have a
> hard time envisioning it.
> Is it anything like a ribbon bouillon, wrapped bar ribbon or folded ribbon
> stitch?
> Lace that has a woven band which some use bias ribbon, my grandmother called
> it tape lace.
> Someone told me it was called Battenburg lace.
> 
> http://cinderella.safeshopper.com/68/437.htm?803
> http://www.goantiques.com/search/images.jsp?id=624372
> 
> but some sites show cutwork and are calling it battenburg lace.
> 
> http://www.prestigiousdames.com/ronni/Christmas/Battenburg1.html
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Quilling
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-----Original Message-----

<<<*I* have never seen quilling done with lace. I've only seen it done
with self fabric or bias tape.>>>

I was trying to answer Bjarne's lace question. Thinking that he was talking
about Battenburg Lace but he didn't know the name of the lace.


<<<Paper quilling which has the same general look can be seen here:
http://www.stampin.com/graphics/tips/papquil1.jpg>>>>>

Bice>>>

My grandmother did something that looked like this but she never taught me.

Found this book on line.
http://www.taunton.com/store/pages/070416_tcpg.asp
http://www.ggcreations.com.au/althea/books/embroidery/ribntrims.html

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Subject: [h-cost] quilled trim, not lace or paper
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>\Quill"ing\, n. (a) A band of linen, muslin, or the like, fluted,
>folded, or plaited so as somewhat to resemble a row of quills.

I should think you could do this with long round pieces of wood, for the 
shaping, and a zipper foot, for the sewing.  I'm guessing you could sew 
across one end of the band to be quilled, side to side and from the 
outside, then put a long round piece of wood (pencil, dowel rod, chop 
stick, knitting needle) along the seam underneath the band, and sew across 
the outside of the band again, side to side and right up against the long 
round thing.  Repeat for the whole length.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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>Does anyone have a good source of Soutache Braid, or
>other trims from the Antebellum U.S. period?

Soutache - Cheeptrims.com


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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From: Kristalori History <jacquelinejbump@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] quilled trim, not lace or paper
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I kinda decided to go with a ruched trim you can see it here: 
http://snipurl.com/97iy
(snipped URL for length)

I'm not even close to done on trim of any nature of course so I could
still do quilling at the bottom and I may do some at the bottom I
don't know yet.

Bice
On Mon, 20 Sep 2004 16:23:58 -0700, Carolyn Kayta Barrows
<kayta@frys.com> wrote:
> 
> >\Quill"ing\, n. (a) A band of linen, muslin, or the like, fluted,
> >folded, or plaited so as somewhat to resemble a row of quills.
> 
> I should think you could do this with long round pieces of wood, for the
> shaping, and a zipper foot, for the sewing.  I'm guessing you could sew
> across one end of the band to be quilled, side to side and from the
> outside, then put a long round piece of wood (pencil, dowel rod, chop
> stick, knitting needle) along the seam underneath the band, and sew across
> the outside of the band again, side to side and right up against the long
> round thing.  Repeat for the whole length.
> 
>        CarolynKayta Barrows
> dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
>          www.FunStuft.com
> 
>              //// \\\
>             ////-@@\\\
>            ((((   7 )))
>             (((  <> ))))
>                )   ((((((
>           /----\   /---\))
> 
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> 



-- 
"Pardon me, Lady Tudor Glitz, but telling people things aren't period isn't
period." 
Italian Ladies 2005 Calendar
http://www.lulu.com/kristalori
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 20:32:30 -0400
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Storage and organization
From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Thank you to everyone who shared their storage tips. For some reason --
well, for the reason that my "sewing room" thinks it is the dining room and
my "weaving room" thinks it is the living room -- I hadn't quite accepted
the realization that I need to turn at least one wall into shelves for
things that are not books. Usually I just turn walls into shelves for books,
I expect that, but the sewing snuck up on me! I appreciate especially the
information on dampness and storage boxes. My cellar (I do have one) is too
damp for me to reasonably put my be-yoo-tee-ful fabrics down there in
ANYTHING, so I must figure out a shelving system for them in the living and
dining rooms. I think, based on the humidity advice, this may involve
shelves with baskets as drawers. So very chic a couple of years ago, too!
Right now the fabric is living in a big chinese wicker trunk. This involves
a kind of toy-box rummage when I want to find something.

I also must express gratitude for the "no more than two projects out at a
time" advice. That alone will keep things more manageable.

Thank you again! I will be reviewing all your notes as I organize stuff.
Lauren

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Poor Bjarne! You've got my sympathy!
(hope the books were worth it!)
--sue, who by some method of Divine Providence, managed to avoid paying 
any customs fees at all (and I pro'ly had, oooh, $700 in books?) when 
she came back from England.
Hmm.  Come to think of it, I didn't get charged for the books I got this 
year (online) from the Republic of Ireland.  Anyone know if there's a 
difference in US policy between imports and exports, as far as books go?

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> You wont believe it!
> I ordered many embroidery books some time ago from Amazon.
> I dont know how, but appearently i ordered the books from USA Amazon.
> 2 of the books came this evening and i had to pay costums
> WWWWWWWWWWWWWWWhhhhhhhhhaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
> How stupid can you be?
> And there are 3 more shipments of books to come.
> I thoaght i had ordered the books from England, and i therefore did not
> expect to pay for costums.
> 
> Bjarne who has enjoyed the books anyway!


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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 21:16:13 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Mara Riley <mara@rileyhome.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Partially O.T. - Closets (WAS: Storage and organization)
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At 10:10 AM 9/20/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>I am not sure if houses are often built with attics any more.  I now live 
>in a geographic area where there is no snow, therefore even many old 
>buildings have flat roofs with no attic. Likewise, this area has few 
>dug-in basements. However, there is often a large garage on the ground 
>floor of the house, typically used as a laundry room, work area for 
>amateur repairs and carpentry, and miscellaneous storage.  And possibly a 
>car, but the car can be parked outside if necessary.

>Apartment living is not new, but people who live in modern apartments tend 
>to be very concerned about closets because they can't store things in a 
>garage or attic.  And if modern houses elsewhere are being built without 
>attics (maybe there have been improvements in roof design?  I'm no 
>architect), that would explain a few things.

Most of the new homes in our area are built without attics (much to my 
annoyance) because the joists are prefabricated in such a way that an attic 
is impossible.  The older homes in our area have no basements (there's a 
high water table), but the newer ones do, and it's quite a selling 
feature.  The sump pumps to our neighbors' houses run constantly, 
though.  We're lucky -- our basement is fairly dry, and our sump pump only 
runs during heavy rain storms.

My sister and her boyfriend recently bought a townhouse with a walk-in 
closet. The closet had one of those custom storage systems, which is quite 
a luxurious thing to have -- but it makes sense, in that their bedroom is 
so small that there wouldn't be much room for additional furniture in the 
bedroom, but since they have the equivalent of two dressers in the closet, 
the bedroom can be uncluttered and seem more roomy.

We live in a fairly modest house -- the smallest in our neighborhood, I 
think -- and have a walk-in closet, but it's not big enough to hold all of 
our clothes (and neither of us is a particular clothes horse; it's just not 
a big closet, as walk-ins go).  We're considering building a new wall in 
one section of the bedroom (an odd corner niche probably meant to hold a 
wardrobe or entertainment center) to make a second closet, so that we would 
have two modest sized closets.  It would be a selling feature, and also 
would probably allow us to move all of our clothes into the closets and get 
rid of the dressers.  But we haven't quite gotten that far -- we have to 
finish other house projects first, like tiling the entry and finishing the 
basement.  (Yes, we're doing it ourselves...  that's why most of my costume 
projects have been on hold lately.)  I put down new flooring plus 
baseboard, crown molding, etc. and painted the walls and ceilings of two 
upstairs bedrooms this past winter, to serve as my office space and sewing 
room.  Kevin gets the garage as his workspace, for woodworking and 
mechanical stuff.

I put Ikea Ivar shelving in both rooms; it works pretty well for fabric 
storage.  I've also got plastic file crates for my patterns, using  hanging 
file folders with tabs to help keep everything organized.  I tend to put 
the patterns in large envelopes with a copy of the pattern's front design 
taped to the front of the envelope, to avoid the problem of having to 
refold everything properly.

-- Mara

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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] stupid stupid thing not to do.
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2004 19:26:59 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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How much did you have to pay?  I'm asking because I just had a 
potential customer from the Netherlands inquire about ordering a 
garment off my website.  I was wondering if she will have to pay 
customs.

Sylrog


On Sep 20, 2004, at 7:21 PM, Sue Clemenger wrote:

> Poor Bjarne! You've got my sympathy!
> (hope the books were worth it!)
> --sue, who by some method of Divine Providence, managed to avoid 
> paying any customs fees at all (and I pro'ly had, oooh, $700 in 
> books?) when she came back from England.
> Hmm.  Come to think of it, I didn't get charged for the books I got 
> this year (online) from the Republic of Ireland.  Anyone know if 
> there's a difference in US policy between imports and exports, as far 
> as books go?
>
> Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>
>> You wont believe it!
>> I ordered many embroidery books some time ago from Amazon.
>> I dont know how, but appearently i ordered the books from USA Amazon.
>> 2 of the books came this evening and i had to pay costums
>> WWWWWWWWWWWWWWWhhhhhhhhhaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
>> How stupid can you be?
>> And there are 3 more shipments of books to come.
>> I thoaght i had ordered the books from England, and i therefore did 
>> not
>> expect to pay for costums.
>> Bjarne who has enjoyed the books anyway!
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 01:58:15 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] stupid stupid thing not to do.
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Yep!
I live in the Netherlands and had some very nasty suprises.
Packages with a value to 20 euro are free, but with higher values you'll 
end up paying like one third extra.
One time I ended up paying more than I actually payed for the object 
because the person thought it would be better to send it with a very 
high value for the insurance.

Greetings,
        Deredere

Sylvia Rognstad wrote:

> How much did you have to pay?  I'm asking because I just had a 
> potential customer from the Netherlands inquire about ordering a 
> garment off my website.  I was wondering if she will have to pay customs.
>
> Sylrog
>
>
> On Sep 20, 2004, at 7:21 PM, Sue Clemenger wrote:
>
>> Poor Bjarne! You've got my sympathy!
>> (hope the books were worth it!)
>> --sue, who by some method of Divine Providence, managed to avoid 
>> paying any customs fees at all (and I pro'ly had, oooh, $700 in 
>> books?) when she came back from England.
>> Hmm.  Come to think of it, I didn't get charged for the books I got 
>> this year (online) from the Republic of Ireland.  Anyone know if 
>> there's a difference in US policy between imports and exports, as far 
>> as books go?
>>
>> Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>>
>>> You wont believe it!
>>> I ordered many embroidery books some time ago from Amazon.
>>> I dont know how, but appearently i ordered the books from USA Amazon.
>>> 2 of the books came this evening and i had to pay costums
>>> WWWWWWWWWWWWWWWhhhhhhhhhaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
>>> How stupid can you be?
>>> And there are 3 more shipments of books to come.
>>> I thoaght i had ordered the books from England, and i therefore did not
>>> expect to pay for costums.
>>> Bjarne who has enjoyed the books anyway!
>>
>>
>>
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 02:40:37 2004
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Partially O.T. - Closets (WAS: Storage and organization)
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My trouble with all of these storage suggestions is they cost money.  Money
that could be spent acquiring more fabric, trim, findings, patterns, books
and other things I need to make more costumes.

Susan in Bellevue
(who lives in a place with a closet in the living room - random costumes,
coats, hats, & stuff to trim more hats; first bedroom closet- costumes,
plastic for a costume, vintage clothes, shoes, and hats; second bedroom
closet- misc costume making supplies; third bedroom closet - more costumes
and a few of my best clothes.)

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 04:21:30 2004
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Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 09:20:18 +0100
From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Partially O.T. - Closets (WAS: Storage andorganization)
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> > which leads me to as, do the majority of American homes 
> > have built in  closets in al the rooms?


> > The houses and flats I have experience of in England occasionally
have 
> > them in one or two of the bedrooms, but more often don't have
anything 
> > of the sort and rely on free standing cupboards/wardrobes or
furniture 
> > that is "built in" as an addition to the room rather than built in
as 
> > part of the structure of the house?
> 
> My husband, who lived in England for some time, explained to 
> me that this has to do with a long-standing tax regulation. 
> Houses were taxed based on the number of rooms, and closets 
> counted as extra rooms (or something like that -- maybe it 
> was number of doors?). I don't know if the rule is still in 
> effect, but obviously it was in place when many English 
> houses were built.

Since I've never heard of it, it must be as antiquated as Window Tax (a
few *really* old houses stil ahve false windows or windows that were
bricked up with false windows painted on to maintain appearances,
because it was only the number of actual windows that were taxed), but
that hasn't been in effect for a couple of hundred years, I think.

If a "room tax" was a factor, then it might be something that was in
effect just long enough for the lack of walk-in closets to become the
accepted norm so they haven't been intorduced since.

> Even if it is in effect still,

It isn't. I know form the planning applications we made for our
extension a few years back that there are very specific rules that apply
to what counts as a "room" and waht counts as a "storage area".  The
"room" in the roofspace of our extension (where we store both our fabric
stashes and some of the re-enactment kit) is, for official purposes, a
"storage area", and the door into it from the stairs is an "access
hatch" because if it were a "room" (fr people to live in) with a "door"
there would be all sorts of regulations to abide by involding expensive
remodelling of the stairs and provision of suitable fire-escape
facilities etc.

> I don't know whether it would 
> apply to additions or modifications made to existing houses. 
> Though I do recall an English friend who chose to add an 
> attic storage to his daughter's room talking about this rule 
> as well. I don't know if he was referring to anything 
> affecting him now, as opposed to explaining to us why the 
> room had no closet.

It may have been those regulations dictating that it couldn't be an
attic "room", but was OK as a "storage area"
 
Teddy
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 04:24:34 2004
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From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Partially O.T. - Closets (WAS: Storage and organization)
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> Free-standing cupboards and wardrobes are 
> definitely the exception rather than the rule over here. 
> Fashions in closet space have changed over the years, but 
> purpose built is definitely the most common......in my area.....YMMV.

> I'll show you mine the next time you come for a visit!

<g> It was partially the memory of your house that prompted me to ask.
You also have that closet half way up the wall in your room, above the
stairs down to your sewing room, don't you?

Teddy
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From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] stupid stupid thing not to do.
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> You wont believe it!
> I ordered many embroidery books some time ago from Amazon.
> I dont know how, but appearently i ordered the books from USA 
> Amazon. 2 of the books came this evening and i had to pay 
> costums WWWWWWWWWWWWWWWhhhhhhhhhaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
> How stupid can you be?
> And there are 3 more shipments of books to come.
> I thoaght i had ordered the books from England, and i 
> therefore did not expect to pay for costums.
 
Poor Bjarne!

I've been stung like that with items ordered from the U.S. too, which is
why I seldom do it since any "bargain" price stops being a bargain if
you have to pay half the amount again in customs and post-office charges
if the post office decides (apparently at random) that they are going to
present the package to customs for assessment.

The annoying thing is that some parcels get through without the customs
process taking effect and some get "caught" and charged heavily for.

Somehow, not realizing you were orfering form the U.S. makes the whole
thing worse - you have my sympathy

Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Partially O.T. - Closets (WAS: Storage and organization)
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>> which leads me to as, do the majority of American homes have built in
>> closets in al the rooms?
>
> Generally, yes, in the bedrooms at least, and sometimes in other rooms as
> well. Some are shallow, just a few feet sectioned off the length of a
> wall, with sliding doors to provide access across the breadth of it.
> Others are like little rooms, with doors -- these are "walk-in" closets.
(snipped)
> Freestanding wardrobes are almost unheard of here -- they're considered
> more decorative than practical. They're a must in England.
> --Robin
>
Hurray for closets!
In buying my large and scrumptious house, which was a Dutch gable built in 
1835 and added to at least 4 times,  I love the closets.  Two of the 4 
bedrooms of my part of the house (there is a separate apartment), have small 
closets, and only one of the upstairs one does.
  But what it does have are 2 huge walk in closets side by side, as a buffer 
between the dining room and other living space and the bedroom bathroom 
addition space.
They open onto that hallway, so they are accessible  - there are hallway 
space on either side of them, which has most glass doors that open into the 
dining room area = in effect, they fill in the center of a U.  Plenty of 
access, plenty of storage, plenty of sound deadening.   One of the nicest 
designs!  And makes up for the smallish closets in the bedrooms.
Of course, I am actually using the walk in closet upstairs, and one of those 
bedrooms too, as my fabric and other stuff storage.   And the other upstairs 
bedroom as my sewing room.
All of this with an about 20' or more living room with a fireplace, and 
hardwood floors in every room.  And the den, and the 2 rooms that are just 
small entryways but great for storing more stuff (one has the washing 
machine, etc.  and the screened in porch.  and the double garage with an 
attic. too.  Oh yeah,the house has stairs going to the very solid attic that 
has storage space (I haven't been able to afford to insulate it yet, and I 
actually hate to lose the very solid floor as storage space.
  Let's not forget the maze of the basement rooms.
  All of this and really nice neighbors, too.
  I love living in a rural area!
Rowena
 


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Lauren
I, too, use the livingroom/kitchen as my sewing area in a small ranch house 
with three children and five cats.  I have chosen to use an armoir in which 
I added numerous shelves.  I am able to fold my fabrics and place them where 
I can see them on the shelves and I have acquired several shallow plastic 
drawer units, at the dreaded Walmart, which I keep my notions in.  The clear 
drawers make it simple to see what is inside, while the shallow depth 
prevents the toybox syndrome.  I also have a few clear rubbermaid containers 
that are about twice the size of a shoe box that stack nicely for ribbon 
spools.  I have thought about mounting a bar on the inside of the door to 
accomodate the spools, it would allow more room for fabric... I think I'll 
need to try it.  It's so easy to forget the available space on the inside of 
doors, good for pinup boards (lightweight ceiling tile covered in fabric), 
or magnetic surface (flashing from homeimprovement store), hooks or spool 
spindles, hanging shoe organizers (I use them in the kids' rooms for Barbies 
and things), etc.  A look through garage storage items usually gives me lots 
of good ideas for stashing my crafting stuff.  I also have a cabinet 
dedicated to crafting, using much the same ideas.  It sure beats searching 
all over the house and giving up only to go buy something I know I already 
have ... somewhere.
Susy
> Thank you to everyone who shared their storage tips. For some reason --
> well, for the reason that my "sewing room" thinks it is the dining room 
> and
> my "weaving room" thinks it is the living room -- I hadn't quite accepted
> the realization that I need to turn at least one wall into shelves for
> things that are not books. Usually I just turn walls into shelves for 
> books,
> I expect that, but the sewing snuck up on me! I appreciate especially the
> information on dampness and storage boxes. My cellar (I do have one) is 
> too
> damp for me to reasonably put my be-yoo-tee-ful fabrics down there in
> ANYTHING, so I must figure out a shelving system for them in the living 
> and
> dining rooms. I think, based on the humidity advice, this may involve
> shelves with baskets as drawers. So very chic a couple of years ago, too!
> Right now the fabric is living in a big chinese wicker trunk. This 
> involves
> a kind of toy-box rummage when I want to find something.
>
> I also must express gratitude for the "no more than two projects out at a
> time" advice. That alone will keep things more manageable.
>
> Thank you again! I will be reviewing all your notes as I organize stuff.
> Lauren
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 

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You are correct! Although I haven't gone up there in years.....probably
means that most of the stuff up there isn't that important to my survival
and it needs a good clean-out! My house has a 'coat closet/guest closet'
by the front door, a linen closet in the full bathroom, two small closets
plus the wall storage in my room, one medium bi-fold door type closet in
the middle bedroom, a larger bifold door type closet in the main bedroom,
and a half sunk basement area which is half living space (my sewing area)
and half storage space (which you were such a wonder bunny to tidy up
when you were here!). 

And then there's the garage........ 8-)


Karen


On Tue, 21 Sep 2004 09:23:44 +0100 Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk> writes:
> <g> It was partially the memory of your house that prompted me to 
> ask. You also have that closet half way up the wall in your room, above

> the stairs down to your sewing room, don't you?
> 
> Teddy
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That is rotten!  How strange too.  I often order books from Germany, and 
don't get charged extra.  Obviously if you can get them from England it 
would be cheaper, but if you ever must buy from the US, I wonder if 
someone here ordered it and then sent it on as a private package if you 
would get charged. 

Sg  (who usually follows rules, but really!)

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

>You wont believe it!
>I ordered many embroidery books some time ago from Amazon.
>I dont know how, but appearently i ordered the books from USA Amazon.
>2 of the books came this evening and i had to pay costums
>WWWWWWWWWWWWWWWhhhhhhhhhaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
>How stupid can you be?
>And there are 3 more shipments of books to come.
>I thoaght i had ordered the books from England, and i therefore did not
>expect to pay for costums.
>
>Bjarne who has enjoyed the books anyway!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
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>  
>
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] stupid stupid thing not to do.
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 07:58:18 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Do you have any idea how much 20 euro is in US dollars?  And does it 
mean that if I put a low value to the garment the customer won't have 
to pay customs?

On Sep 20, 2004, at 11:57 PM, Deredere Galbraith wrote:

> Yep!
> I live in the Netherlands and had some very nasty suprises.
> Packages with a value to 20 euro are free, but with higher values 
> you'll end up paying like one third extra.
> One time I ended up paying more than I actually payed for the object 
> because the person thought it would be better to send it with a very 
> high value for the insurance.
>
> Greetings,
>        Deredere
>
> Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
>
>> How much did you have to pay?  I'm asking because I just had a 
>> potential customer from the Netherlands inquire about ordering a 
>> garment off my website.  I was wondering if she will have to pay 
>> customs.
>>
>> Sylrog
>>
>>
>> On Sep 20, 2004, at 7:21 PM, Sue Clemenger wrote:
>>
>>> Poor Bjarne! You've got my sympathy!
>>> (hope the books were worth it!)
>>> --sue, who by some method of Divine Providence, managed to avoid 
>>> paying any customs fees at all (and I pro'ly had, oooh, $700 in 
>>> books?) when she came back from England.
>>> Hmm.  Come to think of it, I didn't get charged for the books I got 
>>> this year (online) from the Republic of Ireland.  Anyone know if 
>>> there's a difference in US policy between imports and exports, as 
>>> far as books go?
>>>
>>> Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>>>
>>>> You wont believe it!
>>>> I ordered many embroidery books some time ago from Amazon.
>>>> I dont know how, but appearently i ordered the books from USA 
>>>> Amazon.
>>>> 2 of the books came this evening and i had to pay costums
>>>> WWWWWWWWWWWWWWWhhhhhhhhhaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
>>>> How stupid can you be?
>>>> And there are 3 more shipments of books to come.
>>>> I thoaght i had ordered the books from England, and i therefore did 
>>>> not
>>>> expect to pay for costums.
>>>> Bjarne who has enjoyed the books anyway!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] stupid stupid thing not to do.
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For two books, Painting with a Needle (Chinese Embroidery) and Teckniques of
Chinese Embroidery i had to pay 150 kr. wich is about 22 dollars.
4 more books are on its way :-(

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sylvia Rognstad" <sylvia@ntw.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2004 3:26 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] stupid stupid thing not to do.


> How much did you have to pay?  I'm asking because I just had a
> potential customer from the Netherlands inquire about ordering a
> garment off my website.  I was wondering if she will have to pay
> customs.
>
> Sylrog
>
>
> On Sep 20, 2004, at 7:21 PM, Sue Clemenger wrote:
>
> > Poor Bjarne! You've got my sympathy!
> > (hope the books were worth it!)
> > --sue, who by some method of Divine Providence, managed to avoid
> > paying any customs fees at all (and I pro'ly had, oooh, $700 in
> > books?) when she came back from England.
> > Hmm.  Come to think of it, I didn't get charged for the books I got
> > this year (online) from the Republic of Ireland.  Anyone know if
> > there's a difference in US policy between imports and exports, as far
> > as books go?
> >
> > Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> >
> >> You wont believe it!
> >> I ordered many embroidery books some time ago from Amazon.
> >> I dont know how, but appearently i ordered the books from USA Amazon.
> >> 2 of the books came this evening and i had to pay costums
> >> WWWWWWWWWWWWWWWhhhhhhhhhaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
> >> How stupid can you be?
> >> And there are 3 more shipments of books to come.
> >> I thoaght i had ordered the books from England, and i therefore did
> >> not
> >> expect to pay for costums.
> >> Bjarne who has enjoyed the books anyway!
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


_______________________________________________
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From: Lena Strid <lstrid@mglarc.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] stupid stupid thing not to do.
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20 euro = ca 24.50 US dollar.

/Lena

-----Original Message-----
From: Sylvia Rognstad [mailto:sylvia@ntw.net] 
Sent: 21 September 2004 14:58
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] stupid stupid thing not to do.

Do you have any idea how much 20 euro is in US dollars?  And does it 
mean that if I put a low value to the garment the customer won't have 
to pay customs?

On Sep 20, 2004, at 11:57 PM, Deredere Galbraith wrote:

> Yep!
> I live in the Netherlands and had some very nasty suprises.
> Packages with a value to 20 euro are free, but with higher values 
> you'll end up paying like one third extra.
> One time I ended up paying more than I actually payed for the object 
> because the person thought it would be better to send it with a very 
> high value for the insurance.
>
> Greetings,
>        Deredere
>
> Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
>
>> How much did you have to pay?  I'm asking because I just had a 
>> potential customer from the Netherlands inquire about ordering a 
>> garment off my website.  I was wondering if she will have to pay 
>> customs.
>>
>> Sylrog
>>
>>
>> On Sep 20, 2004, at 7:21 PM, Sue Clemenger wrote:
>>
>>> Poor Bjarne! You've got my sympathy!
>>> (hope the books were worth it!)
>>> --sue, who by some method of Divine Providence, managed to avoid 
>>> paying any customs fees at all (and I pro'ly had, oooh, $700 in 
>>> books?) when she came back from England.
>>> Hmm.  Come to think of it, I didn't get charged for the books I got 
>>> this year (online) from the Republic of Ireland.  Anyone know if 
>>> there's a difference in US policy between imports and exports, as 
>>> far as books go?
>>>
>>> Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>>>
>>>> You wont believe it!
>>>> I ordered many embroidery books some time ago from Amazon.
>>>> I dont know how, but appearently i ordered the books from USA 
>>>> Amazon.
>>>> 2 of the books came this evening and i had to pay costums
>>>> WWWWWWWWWWWWWWWhhhhhhhhhaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
>>>> How stupid can you be?
>>>> And there are 3 more shipments of books to come.
>>>> I thoaght i had ordered the books from England, and i therefore did 
>>>> not
>>>> expect to pay for costums.
>>>> Bjarne who has enjoyed the books anyway!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Glenageary         e-mail: archaeology@mglarc.com
Co. Dublin	   website: http://www.mglarc.com
=================================================

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>
> Do you have any idea how much 20 euro is in US dollars?  And does it 
> mean that if I put a low value to the garment the customer won't have 
> to pay customs?

When my son went to Germany this summer it was about 1.20 euro to one
dollar  -- or was that $1.20 to 1 euro.  (I hate figuring out exchange rates!0

Susan

> > Yep!
> > I live in the Netherlands and had some very nasty suprises.
> > Packages with a value to 20 euro are free, but with higher values 
> > you'll end up paying like one third extra.
> > One time I ended up paying more than I actually payed for the object 
> > because the person thought it would be better to send it with a very 
> > high value for the insurance.
> >
> > Greetings,
> >        Deredere
> >
>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Partially O.T. - Closets (WAS: Storage andorganization)
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 14:42:27 +0000
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Yes, there were room taxes and window taxes.  I've got the two volumes (huge books!) of the proclamations of the Tudor and Stuart.  And a few of the books I have on Irish history has some information about this.  Those taxes were repealed, but I don't remember what year...


--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 
Emer's Needle Wares


 
> > My husband, who lived in England for some time, explained to 
> > me that this has to do with a long-standing tax regulation. 
> > Houses were taxed based on the number of rooms, and closets 
> > counted as extra rooms (or something like that -- maybe it 
> > was number of doors?). I don't know if the rule is still in 
> > effect, but obviously it was in place when many English 
> > houses were built. 
> 
> Since I've never heard of it, it must be as antiquated as Window Tax (a 
> few *really* old houses stil ahve false windows or windows that were 
> bricked up with false windows painted on to maintain appearances, 
> because it was only the number of actual windows that were taxed), but 
> that hasn't been in effect for a couple of hundred years, I think. 
> 
> If a "room tax" was a factor, then it might be something that was in 
> effect just long enough for the lack of walk-in closets to become the 
> accepted norm so they haven't been intorduced since. 
> 
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	Tue, 21 Sep 2004 15:49:37 BST
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 15:49:37 +0100 (BST)
From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: [h-cost] stupid stupid thing not to do. - EEC Customs' Duties
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Er, hasn't anyone told you people that the European Union - aka France & germany in control of the Brussels Bureaucracy - is conducting a Trade War against the USA?
According to the States Of Jersey Director of Customs & Excise, EU Customs' Duties are now being increased on US goods, on a sliding scale which is set to increase months by month - until Brussels gets whatever p-articular concessions it is seeking from the US Government at this time.
Even the British Channel Islands are affected by this - because - althought we are not members of the EEC, having opted to "stay-out" back in 1976; - in that year our misbegotten local politicians did agree that our tarfiffs of Customs Duties should mirror those of the EEC [with the understanding that the funds raised in this way were not paid to the UK Mainland Treasury, but remained in the independent Treasuries of the Islands].
I discovered this when a member of our Companie was charged 14% Customs Duty on a pair of medieval shoes she'd ordered from a specialist outlet in the USA; and I went to enquire why this should be, - since I'd ordered re-enactment clothes from the USA previous to her order - and not been charged any Customs Duty on them.
 And in case any of you are wondering why this might be, it is partly a consequence of the EU Politicians drive towards Federalism to create a United States of Europe - which most of it's ordinary inhabitants don't seem to want [not those I've spoken to in my years of working over there, anyway!] . 
And partly  - as Germany if  - through her appointed brussesl bureacrats - the largest single benefitor from the EU Budget - to fill the huge hole in the German FinanzMinisterium's budgetary long-term planning, caused, at bottom, by the return of the ex-East Germany to democracy as part of the new re-united Nation.
So those of you living in Europe, - wanting to order re-enactment kit from US suppliers at the most competitive prices - are now going to find yourselves part of a largely-unpublicised commercial war against the US being waged from Brussels, by non-elected French and German EEC bureaucrats doing the behest of their own National Goivernments.
All this is of course - totally against the spirit of the intended European Free Trade Area as originally "sold" to the various Publics - when the proponents were promising that the Brussels Govenrment "would not interfere in the internal affairs of Member States".
In Service,
Julian,
very cynical, 
in "olde" Jersey.
Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk> wrote:

> You wont believe it!
> I ordered many embroidery books some time ago from Amazon. I dont know how, but appearently i ordered the books from USA  Amazon. 2 of the books came this evening and i had to pay  costums {Customs Duty?]WWWWWWWWWWWWWWWhhhhhhhhhaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
> How stupid can you be? And there are 3 more shipments of books to come. I thoaght i had ordered the books from England, and i  therefore did not expect to pay for costums.{Customs Duty?]

Poor Bjarne!

I've been stung like that with items ordered from the U.S. too, which is why I seldom do it since any "bargain" price stops being a bargain if you have to pay half the amount again in customs and post-office charges if the post office decides (apparently at random) that they are going to present the package to customs for assessment.

The annoying thing is that some parcels get through without the customs process taking effect and some get "caught" and charged heavily for.
		
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From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: [h-cost] stupid stupid thing not to do. - EEC Customs' Duties
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Er, hasn't anyone told you people that the European Union - aka France & germany in control of the Brussels Bureaucracy - is conducting a Trade War against the USA?
According to the States Of Jersey Director of Customs & Excise, EU Customs' Duties are now being increased on US goods, on a sliding scale which is set to increase months by month - until Brussels gets whatever p-articular concessions it is seeking from the US Government at this time.
Even the British Channel Islands are affected by this - because - althought we are not members of the EEC, having opted to "stay-out" back in 1976; - in that year our misbegotten local politicians did agree that our tarfiffs of Customs Duties should mirror those of the EEC [with the understanding that the funds raised in this way were not paid to the UK Mainland Treasury, but remained in the independent Treasuries of the Islands].
I discovered this when a member of our Companie was charged 14% Customs Duty on a pair of medieval shoes she'd ordered from a specialist outlet in the USA; and I went to enquire why this should be, - since I'd ordered re-enactment clothes from the USA previous to her order - and not been charged any Customs Duty on them.
 And in case any of you are wondering why this might be, it is partly a consequence of the EU Politicians drive towards Federalism to create a United States of Europe - which most of it's ordinary inhabitants don't seem to want [not those I've spoken to in my years of working over there, anyway!] . 
And partly  - as Germany if  - through her appointed brussesl bureacrats - the largest single benefitor from the EU Budget - to fill the huge hole in the German FinanzMinisterium's budgetary long-term planning, caused, at bottom, by the return of the ex-East Germany to democracy as part of the new re-united Nation.
So those of you living in Europe, - wanting to order re-enactment kit from US suppliers at the most competitive prices - are now going to find yourselves part of a largely-unpublicised commercial war against the US being waged from Brussels, by non-elected French and German EEC bureaucrats doing the behest of their own National Goivernments.
All this is of course - totally against the spirit of the intended European Free Trade Area as originally "sold" to the various Publics - when the proponents were promising that the Brussels Govenrment "would not interfere in the internal affairs of Member States".
In Service,
Julian,
very cynical, 
in "olde" Jersey.
Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk> wrote:

> You wont believe it!
> I ordered many embroidery books some time ago from Amazon. I dont know how, but appearently i ordered the books from USA  Amazon. 2 of the books came this evening and i had to pay  costums {Customs Duty?]WWWWWWWWWWWWWWWhhhhhhhhhaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
> How stupid can you be? And there are 3 more shipments of books to come. I thoaght i had ordered the books from England, and i  therefore did not expect to pay for costums.{Customs Duty?]

Poor Bjarne!

I've been stung like that with items ordered from the U.S. too, which is why I seldom do it since any "bargain" price stops being a bargain if you have to pay half the amount again in customs and post-office charges if the post office decides (apparently at random) that they are going to present the package to customs for assessment.

The annoying thing is that some parcels get through without the customs process taking effect and some get "caught" and charged heavily for.
		
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Somewhere between $30 and $40, I think.  Exchange rate fluctuates a bit. 
  When I was over there a couple of years ago (hi, Teddy! <g>), the 
British pound and the euro were both roughly equivalent to $1.80 in US 
currency, so I was guesstimating the cost by doubling the sticker price 
to get it in dollars.
And I'm with SaraGrace...more than willing to send packages for folks.
--sue

Sylvia Rognstad wrote:

> Do you have any idea how much 20 euro is in US dollars?  And does it 
> mean that if I put a low value to the garment the customer won't have to 
> pay customs?
>

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Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 16:09:30 +0100 (BST)
From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] stupid stupid thing not to do.
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According to The States of Jersey's Customs & Excise Dept. - there is a very long EEC Customs' Duty List of all imported products, recommending  a certain % of the value be chgarged as duty when imported from outside the EU.  According the the local, [Jersey] Customs Officer with whom I held converse, most EU Member States Customs Depts.also apply a threshold value in deciding whether or not they demand payment of any Duty assessed.  This threshold level is apparently set just above the point at which the costs of collecting the Duty-liable are more than the value of the Duty assessed. Obviously this threshold point will vary from Country to Country within the EU - since some of their bureaucracies are more efficient, - and therefore less -expensive  - than others.
YIS,
Julian, in "olde" Jersey

Susan Farmer <sfarmer@sabre.goldsword.com> wrote:

 SNIP And does it  mean that if I put a low value to the garment the customer won't have  to pay customs?

SNIP
AND

> > Yep!
> > I live in the Netherlands and had some very nasty suprises.
> > Packages with a value to 20 euro are free, but with higher values  you'll end up paying like one third extra.
> > One time I ended up paying more than I actually payed for the object  because the person thought it would be better to send it with a very  high value for the insurance.
> >

		
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Hi.
I have arranged everything to travel to Gammel Estrup on friday.
The curator of the museum asked me if i could take some informations about
my work with me + a picture of myself for the press.
Should that be some photos of the work in progress and some text? Could i
use the picture i have on the frontpage of my homepage where i am in
costume? Or should it be a modern picture?

Any help greatly apreciated.

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 16:27:38 +0100 (BST)
From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
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The base-Customs Duty on clothing from outside the EEC is 14%. According to our local Customs & Excise Dept., the surcharge at the moment is an extra 10% on this; and next month it is appranetly due to rise by another 5%.
By contrast, however, I am advised that medieval weapons and arrmour only have a EU-recommended basic Duty of 1.5%.
National Governments of EEC-Member States are of course not going to object to this "FuhrerBefehl" from Brussels, - as this increases their own Customs & Excise Receipts. [And this is the a part of the sort of thing our Grandfathers and Fathers fought 2 World Wars against Germany and it's Allies to prevent!!]
It's just us poor ordinary folk who will be paying this higher "stealth Tax"!
Julian,
in "olde" Jersey.

Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net> wrote:
How much did you have to pay? I'm asking because I just had a 
potential customer from the Netherlands inquire about ordering a garment off my website. I was wondering if she will have to pay customs.

Sylrog
		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Storage and organization
From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
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Susy the pagan soccer mom wrote:

> spindles, hanging shoe organizers (I use them in the kids' rooms for Barbies
> and things), etc.  A look through garage storage items usually gives me lots
> of good ideas for stashing my crafting stuff.  I also have a cabinet
> dedicated to crafting, using much the same ideas.  It sure beats searching
> all over the house and giving up only to go buy something I know I already
> have ... somewhere.

The shoe organizers reminded me of my late brother, who made various canvas
hanging pocket-organizers for everything. He could set grommets, and put in
3/4 inch grommets on the corners of all these canvas things, and hung them
up using metal push pins all over his loft. Everything from a pen-and-paper
organizer over his phone-desk to a magazine pocket on the back of the
bathroom door, made of canvas with various colorful mesh pockets and corner
grommets to hold them up. And since they were canvas, he could just keep
making them! Whenever I sew I miss him. He could make anything!
Lauren

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The style is known as 'bec de corbin' or 'crow's beak' and was popular in the 1400's along with the houpelande. You can make it by measuring your head and drawing out a triangle that will fit over your head on some scrap fabric (that has some body- felt is good). Round off the top point and sew along the top edge. Try it on your head, folding up the back part until it fits comfortably. You may need to try several mock-ups before you hit on just the right proportion, but it's a simple pattern so you can whip them out in just a few minutes. Once you get the shape and proportion right, you can make it of finer fabrics and even line it so that the lining shows at the turned up back. 


Karen

-- Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net> wrote:
Hi,
Can anyone recommend a good pattern for the sort of pointed cap that is so
often drawn on Robin Hood? The Errol Flynn Robin definitely wore such a one.
I don't even know what they're called other than Robin Hood caps. Sort of a
right triangle with the right angle as the peak of the crown, the short side
as the back, and the hypoteneuse as the opening for the head. And a feather!
Thanks!
Lauren


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Hi,
Can anyone recommend a good pattern for the sort of pointed cap that is so
often drawn on Robin Hood? The Errol Flynn Robin definitely wore such a one.
I don't even know what they're called other than Robin Hood caps. Sort of a
right triangle with the right angle as the peak of the crown, the short side
as the back, and the hypoteneuse as the opening for the head. And a feather!
Thanks!
Lauren


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Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 12:56:00 -0400
From: Kristalori History <jacquelinejbump@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Robin Hood hat?
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Simplicity 7761 which is a sort of "men in tights" sort of ren faire
pattern has a hat included that is exactly the hat you are speaking
of.
http://www.simplicity.com/assets/7761/7761.jpg


On Tue, 21 Sep 2004 12:35:18 -0400, Lauren Walker
<lauren.walker@comcast.net> wrote:
> Hi,
> Can anyone recommend a good pattern for the sort of pointed cap that is so
> often drawn on Robin Hood? The Errol Flynn Robin definitely wore such a one.
> I don't even know what they're called other than Robin Hood caps. Sort of a
> right triangle with the right angle as the peak of the crown, the short side
> as the back, and the hypoteneuse as the opening for the head. And a feather!
> Thanks!
> Lauren
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 



-- 
"Pardon me, Lady Tudor Glitz, but telling people things aren't period isn't
period." 
Italian Ladies 2005 Calendar
http://www.lulu.com/kristalori
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Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 17:57:57 +0100 (BST)
From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Robin Hood hat?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Dear Lauren,
either The Tudor Shoppe or Historic Enterprises used to offer this Hat-Design ready-made, very cheaply. 
In Service,
Julian,
in "olde" Jersey.

Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net> wrote:

Hi,
Can anyone recommend a good pattern for the sort of pointed cap that is so often drawn on Robin Hood? The Errol Flynn Robin definitely wore such a one.
SNIP

Thanks!
Lauren

		
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I have a PDF file I got from a hat-making site a while back.  It is a very
simple design, and if you use the right fabrics, they turn out nice.  Great
hat for kids.  I had to modify the pattern for an adult size.

E-mail me off-list and I will forward it to you.

Becky


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lauren Walker
Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2004 9:35 AM
To: h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] Robin Hood hat?

Hi,
Can anyone recommend a good pattern for the sort of pointed cap that is so
often drawn on Robin Hood? The Errol Flynn Robin definitely wore such a one.
I don't even know what they're called other than Robin Hood caps. Sort of a
right triangle with the right angle as the peak of the crown, the short side
as the back, and the hypoteneuse as the opening for the head. And a feather!
Thanks!
Lauren


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h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Robin Hood hat?
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Dear Karen,
that's very informative, and also somewhat surprises me.
 When I was looking for warhammers for our Companie at the start of 2003, those are the words I was using to Yahoo- and Goggle-search for the English armoured-Kinght on Foot's favourite fighting weapon. 
While I do not doubt the authenticity of your statement,  - I also don't recall that "bec de corbin" web-searches in 2003 turned-up anything but weapons suppliers. Not garb suppliers selling "Robin Hood" hats.
Thank you for the factoid, - I shall add it to my Files.
In Service,
Julian,
in "olde" Jersey.

"seamstrix@juno.com" <seamstrix@juno.com> wrote:

The style is known as 'bec de corbin' or 'crow's beak' and was popular in the 1400's along with the houpelande. You can make it by measuring your head and drawing out a triangle that will fit over your head on some scrap fabric (that has some body- felt is good). Round off the top point and sew along the top edge. Try it on your head, folding up the back part until it fits comfortably. You may need to try several mock-ups before you hit on just the right proportion, but it's a simple pattern so you can whip them out in just a few minutes. Once you get the shape and proportion right, you can make it of finer fabrics and even line it so that the lining shows at the turned up back. 


Karen

-- Lauren Walker wrote:
Hi,
Can anyone recommend a good pattern for the sort of pointed cap that is so
often drawn on Robin Hood? The Errol Flynn Robin definitely wore such a one.
I don't even know what they're called other than Robin Hood caps. Sort of a
right triangle with the right angle as the peak of the crown, the short side
as the back, and the hypoteneuse as the opening for the head. And a feather!
Thanks!
Lauren


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Sylvia wrote:
> Do you have any idea how much 20 euro is in US dollars?

I can't answer for customs charges, but the link below will take you to a
very nice on-line currency exchange calculator.  It is customizable for
several languages, converts any currency to any other currency, allows
choice of the date for which you would like the rate of exchange, and and
the type of rate.  http://www.oanda.com/convert/classic
At today's Interbank rate, 20Euro will get you $24.34US.
Enjoy,
            -Helen/Aidan


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From: ~Angelique <ivycircle@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Blackwork:  freeform versus counted
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I am confused about the application of blackwork to underclothing (chemise or my husband's shirt) I enjoy the counted blackwork and make mine on 32 linen. I then cut it out and add it as trim. I don't understand how to work the blackwork on the garment if it's counted. Any suggestions would be extremely helpful.
Thank you, ~Angeliqur

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Today's Topics:

1. Ooo a new picture, Italian (otsisto)
2. Lovely site, Spainish (otsisto)
3. RE: Seattle travel (Molly Boone)
4. Re: Ooo a new picture, Italian (Deredere Galbraith)
5. Re: Elizabethan stockings (Rachel)
6. Receipt for removing roughness from fingers
(Freyalynn Close-Hainsworth)
7. Missing Digest 621 (Rachel)
8. Updates & Additions (Penny Ladnier)
9. Correction (Penny Ladnier)
10. RE: Iron Jawed Angels (Teddy)
11. Re: Ooo a new picture, Italian (Sue Clemenger)
12. Re: Elizabethan stockings (Kate M Bunting)
13. Re: Receipt for removing roughness from fingers (Sylvia Rognstad)
14. Re: Receipt for removing roughness from fingers (Cynthia J Ley)
15. Re: Receipt for removing roughness from fingers (Kate M Bunting)
16. Re: Receipt for removing roughness from fingers (Brandy Deming)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2004 00:19:16 -0500
From: "otsisto" 
Subject: [h-cost] Ooo a new picture, Italian
To: "Historic Costume" 
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

At least it's new to me.

http://www.geocities.com/audreybm_costumes/blue_dress/index.htm

De


------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2004 00:22:31 -0500
From: "otsisto" 
Subject: [h-cost] Lovely site, Spainish
To: "Historic Costume" 
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

http://www.geocities.com/audreybm_costumes/spanish/index.htm

De


------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2004 23:57:20 -0700
From: "Molly Boone" 
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Seattle travel
To: "Historical Costume" 
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

"Display and Costume Supply" is on Roosevelt Ave just north of Northgate
they have a website you can get an address, phone and directions from.

Another one of my favorites for unusual materials is "In the Beginning" on
Lake City Way also in North Seattle.

A good place for gorgeous brocades in the main Pacific Fabrics store on 4th
ave in the Sodo District, Just south of Downtown Seattle. It is just south
of the eyesore ... Uh Safeco Field (the place the Mariner's Play? in).

I've heard awesome things about the Van Goh exhibit at the Seattle Art
museum downtown.

We don't get a lot of Costume things here unfortunately. The Pike Place
Market on 1st and Pike in downtown Seattle has several vintage clothing
stores in the lower levels and I've had some stunning book finds in a couple
of the stores there but as previously mentioned they close up outside of
office hours and weekends are PACKED with people.

The Sea Fair hydroplane races are this coming weekend so there are a lot of
city activities are going on all over Puget Sound as part of Sea Fair over
the next 3 weeks so. For activities I'll recommend checking out
http://www.kirotv.com/seattleinsider/index.html

The weather in August here is typically, to us, a hot 90+degrees with a
fairly high humidity and the humidity has been ever worse than normal this
year. Most of the locals try and hide from the heat and sun. There are
some beautiful parks and a lot have Shakespeare in the Park events going on
The arboretum is gorgeous and the Bellevue botanical garden and the
Volunteer Park gardens are worth seeing if you are so inclined.

Molly
Kent, Wa

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of gia_gavino@comcast.net
Sent: Monday, August 02, 2004 9:16 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Seattle travel


Depending where you will be located, these are a few that are my favorites:
the Weaving Works located in the University of Washington area. Address is
4717 Brooklyn Ave NE 206-524-1221
Seattle Fabrics, if you are looking for outdoor fabrics, zippers by the yard
and other stuff. The do have a web page...don't know what the URL is for
it, though: 8702 Aurora Ave North 206-525-0670

Pacific Fabrics near Northgate Mall. Don't have their address. They have
an awesome 'special fabrics' section.
Display and Costume, around the corner from Pacific Fabrics. Don't have
address for this, either.
If you don't mind driving *THE* place to go for special threads, linens and
needlepoint is ThreadNeedleStreet in Issaquah.Threadneedle Street(425)
391-0528 voice line
485 Front Street North, Suite B(10:00 am-5:00 pm Pacific time Monday -
Saturday)
Issaquah WA 98027

Happy shopping!
--
Slan go foill
Elena (Emer) nic Tighearnaigh
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------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Wed, 04 Aug 2004 09:13:52 +0200
From: Deredere Galbraith 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ooo a new picture, Italian
To: Historical Costume 
Message-ID: <41108CB0.9070706@kabelfoon.nl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

It is my favorite.
I really want to recreate this dress complete with the embroidery.
The only problem is that we stil haven't figuret out what to use for the 
embroidery.
It looks like the stip of embroidery is fairly stif.
Is it dark blue green silk backed with someting to make it stif? Or maby 
velvet?
The gold can be tread or some sort of gold work?
I have been looking at several gold plated stuf to use but I know to 
little of goldwork to see what would be best to use.
The painting is so small that it is hard to see.
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Bluedress/Bluedress.html

Greetings,
Deredere

otsisto wrote:

>At least it's new to me.
>
>http://www.geocities.com/audreybm_costumes/blue_dress/index.htm
>
>De
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> 
>





------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2004 08:59:45 +0100
From: "Rachel" 
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Elizabethan stockings 
To: h-costume@indra.com
Message-ID: <410A298C0001EA95@mk-cpfrontend-3.mail.uk.tiscali.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Thanks to everyone who replied to my desperate plea. No woolen hose for
me this year! Horray! It's hot enough under all the wool and ruffs but
at least now I'll have cooler legs.

Thanks, much appreciated.

Rachel
Threads of History
www.threadsofhistory.co.uk

__________________________________________________________________
Get Tiscali Broadband From Ł15:99
http://www.tiscali.co.uk/products/broadband






------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2004 01:06:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: Freyalynn Close-Hainsworth 
Subject: [h-cost] Receipt for removing roughness from fingers
To: h-costume@indra.com
Message-ID: <20040804080647.29879.qmail@web51301.mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Just a quick comment here. I do lots of stuff with my hands and also like to handle fine silk, both to spin and sew. When I find my hands rough, I stand over the sink and in the palm of my hand mix a heaped teaspoon of table salt or caster sugar with a dollop of liquid soap (washing-up liquid will do). This, carefully massaged over your hands, wrists and fingers, will remove all bits of rough skin and leave your hands extremely smooth (and clean). Rinse and thoroughly moisturise.

If your hands are extremely dry use olive oil instead of liquid soap, and wash off with a gentle soap.

Freyalyn, who has just remembered that you must remove rings first



h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:From: "Rachel" 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] DeVere UK - Pure Silk Yarns
I have used these threads and they are wonderful for fine embroidery.
The finer silk tends to be very tightly spun but the larger sizes are
looser and can snag on rough fingers.


---------------------------------
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------------------------------

Message: 7
Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2004 09:12:52 +0100
From: "Rachel" 
Subject: [h-cost] Missing Digest 621
To: h-costume@indra.com
Message-ID: <410A298C0001EB99@mk-cpfrontend-3.mail.uk.tiscali.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

I appear to be missing digest no 621, can someone email a copy to me if
possible.

Thanks
Rachel
Threads of History
www.threadsofhistory.co.uk

__________________________________________________________________
Get Tiscali Broadband From Ł15:99
http://www.tiscali.co.uk/products/broadband






------------------------------

Message: 8
Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2004 04:51:17 -0400
From: "Penny Ladnier" 

Subject: [h-cost] Updates & Additions
To: "h-costume" 
Message-ID: <014101c47a00$350168d0$0200a8c0@MOM>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Instead of announcing when we put new articles online in our Costume Library, I have made a webpage for it. At this moment just the latest additions for July and Aug. are listed. You can access the Library Updates & Additions webpage from: http://www.costumegallery.com/updates OR go to the front of our Library, http://www.costumegallery.com/research.htm and click on the link from there.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com

------------------------------

Message: 9
Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2004 04:57:49 -0400
From: "Penny Ladnier" 

Subject: [h-cost] Correction
To: "h-costume" 
Message-ID: <016601c47a01$1e3ee1d0$0200a8c0@MOM>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

I am sorry the complete url is http://www.costumegallery.com/updates.htm

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumeclassroom.com

------------------------------

Message: 10
Date: Wed, 04 Aug 2004 10:30:03 +0100
From: Teddy 
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Iron Jawed Angels
To: h-costume@indra.com
Message-ID:
<8AFF1656DE4AB348973023624E8F40192C38D6@MDX-CLX-DC1.uni.mdx.ac.uk>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii


> Thanks for bursting my bubble Teddy. 

Don't mention it...

> I found a couple of Liberty House Artistic Reform designs from
> right at the turn of the century. My local library has a excellent
book
> about Liberty House in the reference department. I am planning
> to go back an take a look at it one day when I have some money
> to make colored copies.
> 
> Beside Teddy most women in this time fame tended to wear fashions
from their 
> coming out or trousseau. So I could still get a way with it. If I
decided on 
> the cycle out fit.

Wel, considering that modern-dress wise I'm happy to wear stuff from
over ten years ago (if it still fits...) I don't see why someone
wouldn't do so in another period. Mind you, I've never been fashionable
except by accident when my favoured styles happen to come briefly into
fashion.

> My daughter does not dress us. She is very conservative. It 
> is likely I will only make something for the baby.

What a shame....

Teddy


------------------------------

Message: 11
Date: Wed, 04 Aug 2004 06:12:25 -0600
From: Sue Clemenger 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ooo a new picture, Italian
To: Historical Costume 
Message-ID: <4110D2A9.5080403@in-tch.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

Nice! Although someone should probably tell the website owner that she 
(portrait) isn't "complicated Elizabethan," and definitely more 
continental! She (website owner) wouldn't have to change persona at all!
--sue, actually a little tempted back towards the 16th c.....

otsisto wrote:

> At least it's new to me.
> 
> http://www.geocities.com/audreybm_costumes/blue_dress/index.htm
> 



------------------------------

Message: 12
Date: Wed, 04 Aug 2004 13:55:57 +0100
From: "Kate M Bunting" 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan stockings
To: 
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

My experience is similar to Chris's. I have a partially-made pair of
stockings (from http://www.dabbler.com/ndlwrk/stocking.html ) which I
work on from time to time at Living History events, as a change from
playing music. It attracts some interest, as few people do circular
knitting these days, but the project will take ages to finish and
probably not be wearable when it is. The wooden pins I have are rather
thick. One day I will get round to ordering some pins of a more sensible
size and knitting a proper pair of stockings, but I have enough pairs
for now.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> claning@igc.org 03/08/2004 04:54:30 >>>

I'd suggest you regard the stockings you work on at Faire as a 
"demonstration" project, and not count on being able to turn out 
enough of them to actually wear regularly, unless you work on them a 
lot outside of Faire.

My experience is that there's not really enough time for someone 
working at a Renaissance Faire or other "craft demonstration" to 
actually _do_ significant amounts of needlework. I have 
"demonstration projects" that I work on only at such times, and I 
plan them accordingly for maximum "demo potential" and don't expect 
to have them done anytime soon. If I want to actually make something 
I will _use_, I do it at home in the off season.

It's just a matter of how many hours there are in a "demonstration" 
day and how many of them one is required to spend doing other things. 
(Eating, dressing, marching in parades, looking attentively at 
whatever's going on at "center stage," and -- most important -- 
talking to people about what I'm doing.) I don't count on being able 
to accomplish more than about two hours' worth of needlework a day at 
such an event. Knitting one knee-high stocking takes me at least 
twelve to fifteen hours of solid knitting (no stopping to talk) -- 
and I'm a fast knitter, it takes many people up to twice that long. 
Do the arithmetic and you'll see that it takes a lot of weekends to 
finish one sock.
____________


------------------------------

Message: 13
Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2004 08:21:10 -0600
From: Sylvia Rognstad 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Receipt for removing roughness from fingers
To: Historical Costume 
Message-ID: <88BC3D3D-E621-11D8-B93D-000A95C59FB2@ntw.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed

Which kind of sugar is caster? We don't use that term here. Is it 
regular sugar or powdered?

On Aug 4, 2004, at 2:06 AM, Freyalynn Close-Hainsworth wrote:

> Just a quick comment here. I do lots of stuff with my hands and also 
> like to handle fine silk, both to spin and sew. When I find my hands 
> rough, I stand over the sink and in the palm of my hand mix a heaped 
> teaspoon of table salt or caster sugar with a dollop of liquid soap 
> (washing-up liquid will do). This, carefully massaged over your 
> hands, wrists and fingers, will remove all bits of rough skin and 
> leave your hands extremely smooth (and clean). Rinse and thoroughly 
> moisturise.
>
> If your hands are extremely dry use olive oil instead of liquid soap, 
> and wash off with a gentle soap.
>
> Freyalyn, who has just remembered that you must remove rings first
>
>
>
> h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:From: "Rachel"
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] DeVere UK - Pure Silk Yarns
> I have used these threads and they are wonderful for fine embroidery.
> The finer silk tends to be very tightly spun but the larger sizes are
> looser and can snag on rough fingers.
>
> 
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - Send 10MB messages!
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



------------------------------

Message: 14
Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2004 07:40:41 -0700
From: Cynthia J Ley 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Receipt for removing roughness from fingers
To: h-costume@indra.com
Cc: Cley@juno.com
Message-ID: <20040804.074110.1596.2.Cley@juno.com>
Content-Type: text/plain

My favorite product for rough hands is Udderly Smooth, which is an udder
cream available (in my neck of the woods) at fabric shops. It's
greaseless and stainless, and has a very light and pleasant scent. When
used for cows, it's meant to help smooth and heal teat cracks--for
humans, it's easily one of the best products out there. My fingers are
calloused, and thanks to this, I can work with very fine silk threads and
no fear.

Arlys


________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Message: 15
Date: Wed, 04 Aug 2004 16:09:54 +0100
From: "Kate M Bunting" 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Receipt for removing roughness from fingers
To: 
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

According to http://eat.epicurious.com/dictionary/food/ , you call
caster sugar superfine sugar.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> sylvia@ntw.net 04/08/2004 15:21:10 >>>
Which kind of sugar is caster? We don't use that term here. Is it 
regular sugar or powdered?




------------------------------

Message: 16
Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2004 08:11:32 -0700
From: "Brandy Deming" 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Receipt for removing roughness from fingers
To: "Historical Costume" 
Message-ID: <004401c47a35$53e071d0$547c0f04@brandyscomp>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Thank you for the tip. Some might be interested in an item I found at my
local art store... Liquid Gloves. It goes on like lotion and then you can
peel away all the ickyness that comes with certain projects (especially with
kids). Just thought y'all would like to know.

B

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Freyalynn Close-Hainsworth" 
To: 
Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2004 1:06 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Receipt for removing roughness from fingers


> Just a quick comment here. I do lots of stuff with my hands and also like
to handle fine silk, both to spin and sew. When I find my hands rough, I
stand over the sink and in the palm of my hand mix a heaped teaspoon of
table salt or caster sugar with a dollop of liquid soap (washing-up liquid
will do). This, carefully massaged over your hands, wrists and fingers,
will remove all bits of rough skin and leave your hands extremely smooth
(and clean). Rinse and thoroughly moisturise.
>
> If your hands are extremely dry use olive oil instead of liquid soap, and
wash off with a gentle soap.
>
> Freyalyn, who has just remembered that you must remove rings first
>
>
>
> h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:From: "Rachel"
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] DeVere UK - Pure Silk Yarns
> I have used these threads and they are wonderful for fine embroidery.
> The finer silk tends to be very tightly spun but the larger sizes are
> looser and can snag on rough fingers.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - Send 10MB messages!
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



------------------------------


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The only problem is that this Simplicity pattern is out of print.  You 
can try contacting Simplicity to see if they have any still in stock at 
their warehouse.  Check on eBay also.  I have the pattern and used it 
for a production of Don Giovanni for the men's chorus.

David

Kristalori History wrote:

>Simplicity 7761 which is a sort of "men in tights" sort of ren faire
>pattern has a hat included that is exactly the hat you are speaking
>of.
>http://www.simplicity.com/assets/7761/7761.jpg
>
>
>On Tue, 21 Sep 2004 12:35:18 -0400, Lauren Walker
><lauren.walker@comcast.net> wrote:
>  
>
>>Hi,
>>Can anyone recommend a good pattern for the sort of pointed cap that is so
>>often drawn on Robin Hood? The Errol Flynn Robin definitely wore such a one.
>>I don't even know what they're called other than Robin Hood caps. Sort of a
>>right triangle with the right angle as the peak of the crown, the short side
>>as the back, and the hypoteneuse as the opening for the head. And a feather!
>>Thanks!
>>Lauren
>>
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>>    
>>
>
>
>
>  
>

-- 
David Serxner
NCSU Libraries Acquisitions Dept.
Serials and Electronic Resources
Campus Box 7111
Raleigh, NC  27695-7111
919-513-3355 office
919-515-7292 fax

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] stupid stupid thing not to do.
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2004 6:59 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] stupid stupid thing not to do.


For two books, Painting with a Needle (Chinese Embroidery) and Teckniques of
Chinese Embroidery i had to pay 150 kr. wich is about 22 dollars.
4 more books are on its way :-(

Bjarne

You can always refuse delivery of the next books and then reorder from the
England source.   I know here if I sent those books back I could apply for
my duty back.  The problem is sometimes the cost of sending the books back
is about what I paid in duty so I end up keeping them.  Of course you could
try emailing the company before hand to tell them why the books will be
returned.

Brin Kendall



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] stupid stupid thing not to do.
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Teddy" <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2004 1:41 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] stupid stupid thing not to do.



> You wont believe it!
> I ordered many embroidery books some time ago from Amazon.
> I dont know how, but appearently i ordered the books from USA


I am trying to order as much stuff as I can right now from the states.  Our
Custom Officers have had no contract for 5 mons. now and are letting some
parcels thru without duty.  I paid the gst the other day but not the pst a
savings of over $18.00.   I just need to find more cash to order items I
will need for next year.

Brin Kendall



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Robin Hood hat?
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I believe that it's also known as a 'chapeau a bec' with the same idea of a 'beak hat'. 

Karen




-- julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
Dear Karen,
that's very informative, and also somewhat surprises me.
 When I was looking for warhammers for our Companie at the start of 2003, those are the words I was using to Yahoo- and Goggle-search for the English armoured-Kinght on Foot's favourite fighting weapon. 
While I do not doubt the authenticity of your statement,  - I also don't recall that "bec de corbin" web-searches in 2003 turned-up anything but weapons suppliers. Not garb suppliers selling "Robin Hood" hats.
Thank you for the factoid, - I shall add it to my Files.
In Service,
Julian,
in "olde" Jersey.

"seamstrix@juno.com" <seamstrix@juno.com> wrote:

The style is known as 'bec de corbin' or 'crow's beak' and was popular in the 1400's along with the houpelande. You can make it by measuring your head and drawing out a triangle that will fit over your head on some scrap fabric (that has some body- felt is good). Round off the top point and sew along the top edge. Try it on your head, folding up the back part until it fits comfortably. You may need to try several mock-ups before you hit on just the right proportion, but it's a simple pattern so you can whip them out in just a few minutes. Once you get the shape and proportion right, you can make it of finer fabrics and even line it so that the lining shows at the turned up back. 


Karen

-- Lauren Walker wrote:
Hi,
Can anyone recommend a good pattern for the sort of pointed cap that is so
often drawn on Robin Hood? The Errol Flynn Robin definitely wore such a one.
I don't even know what they're called other than Robin Hood caps. Sort of a
right triangle with the right angle as the peak of the crown, the short side
as the back, and the hypoteneuse as the opening for the head. And a feather!
Thanks!
Lauren


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Subject: [h-cost] pondering self-supporting cotes
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I've been meaning to post about this for a good month or so. I had one of
those Eureka! moments, where  I look at things I've looked at a zillion
times before, and suddenly, POP! one tiny little detail suddenly falls into
place and I see all sorts of things in an entirely new light.

Long ago, through very annoying trial and error, I discovered that you
really _need_ a curved neckline for a good self-supporting cote. I focus
almost exclusively on late 15thC/early 16thC square-necked styles, and in
order to lower my ambient temperature I wanted to skip the undergown, and
make the outer gown self-supporting. (A sensible plan, for a resident of
Dallas, then Lubbock, then Dallas.) However, the stress caused by the
corners of the square neckline makes it soooo much more trouble than it's
worth, if not downright impossible. It can work if you stand perfectly still
while wearing the gown, but the second you try to move your arms around...
ick. At best, hideously unattractive gapping or quad-boob-causing; at worst,
downright claustrophobia-inducing, because you lose the ability to move your
arms. The only way to make the whole thing work is to cut the neckline so
wide that the shoulder strap area is almost nonexistant, and stiffen things
up so that it won't fall off. (More on this below!)   V-necks don't work any
better; in order to get that bias stretch in the right spot, you'd have to
cut the V so low that you'd lose most of your support, because the point
would be under the bust... and you'd STILL have a horrible fit at the
neckline and between the points of the bust, where a portion of the fabric
is under no stress at all and flops around loosely. You just plain need the
bias stretch and lack of overbust coverage provided by a curved neckline, if
you want an effective, attractive, and comfortable self-supporting cote.

So that detail was in place: self-supporting cotes? Have curved necklines.
The second detail was basically an affirmation of the first. I noticed that
in the late 15thC and very early 16thC, it is the undergowns and the single
layer gowns (in other words, undergown with no overgown) that have curved
necklines. The overgowns had a variety of fashionable necklines, mostly
v-shaped or square or a variation or mix of the two. In other words, the
curved-neck gowns were in the right _place_ to fill the role of a
self-supporting cote; the curved neckline was the neckline of an undergown,
rather than of a fashionable overgown.

The final detail was the various ways in which women tried to HIDE the
curved necklines that they wore under more fashionable overgown necklines.
For V-necked gowns, a piece of fabric was pinned into place over the
undergown's neckline to create the illusion of a square neck (and conceal
the undergown's lacing, no doubt). For square-necked gowns, the tucked-in,
shawl-like veil is replaced with a tailored, opaque V-necked garment similar
to later partlets--again, this obscured the curved neckline and created the
effect of a fashionable neckline, in this case V-shaped.

The tiny little POP that happened for me recently, however, was the
realization that if you put all these details together, it becomes the
closest thing to PROOF of self supporting cotes that I've run across. It's
not absolute; it's still deductive. But it is enough to finally convince me.

There's simply no other reason for all those little workarounds to hide the
curved neck (that I can find, at least) except that the curved neckline, for
one reason or another, is _necessary_ and must be hidden rather than
eliminated. And why would it be necessary? Because it is nigh unto
impossible to make a working self-supporting cote with the fashionable
necklines of the era. Why not make a square-necked side-lacing undergown to
wear beneath the V-necked gown? Because in practical terms, you can't make a
square-necked self-supporting gown. Why not make a V-necked undergown to
wear beneath the square-necked overgown? Because in practical terms, you
can't make a V-necked self-supporting gown.

Only with the introduction of proto-corsetry in the form of stiffened
bodices does it become possible to dispose of this curve-necked layer. As an
added detail in support of my theory, the timing of the disappearance of the
curve-necked undergowns coincides exactly with the introduction of stiffened
bodices!  Yet more details fall into place: it is also at this point that
necklines widen dramatically--which, as I mentioned in the second paragraph,
is necessary if you want to move your arms while wearing a supportive
square-necked gown! And the opaque "partlet", which had been used to hide
the earlier curved neckline, disappears. If the origin of this partlet lay
with modesty alone, one would think it would be more necessary with the
wider, lower necklines, but no: modesty with the new style is achieved
through the chemise, which becomes visible at the neckline and shrinks the
region of visible flesh, without having to be opaque. The later partlet
develops from this revealed chemise, rather than from the earlier style of
partlet.

So that little subtle shift of viewpoint that changed my view enormously was
this: the only reason those curved necklines stuck around in defiance of
fashion is that they offered something more important TO fashion: they are
an indication that the gown is self-supporting, because there is no other
reason to HAVE that curved neckline if they're NOT self-supporting! If the
gown is NOT self-supporting, you simply make it with the appropriate
neckline in the first place, rather than creating new garments to fake the
effect of the appropriate neckline!  With this new viewpoint, I suddenly
made sense of all the odd little transitional details that I'd noticed, but
hadn't been able to put together into a cohesive whole. (The evolution of my
favorite style into the more familiar "Tudor" style, for example!)

I'm not saying that all curved neckline gowns in this era are perforce
self-supporting; there are a few clear exceptions, generally in areas where
the curved neckline is still in fashion, or worn by saints. I am saying that
if a fashionable woman wears an unfashionable neckline, there must be a
reason!  I think it's likely that any depiction of a _tightly_fitted_
undergown or single layer gown with a curved neckline, in an area where
those necklines are not fashionable, IS meant to be a depiction of a
self-supporting gown. Women of all classes wear this same garment; what
makes it so universal? The same thing that makes the bra universal today.
(OK, given today's fashions, that may be a bad choice. Let's try that again:
"The same thing that made the bra universal in 1950.")

I was already swayed in favor of self-supporting cotes by what I saw in
paintings; the tightness of the garments shown was just a bit too universal
for me to be able to dismiss it as a stylistic choice by so many artists
with so little in common. The introduction of extra seaming above and beyond
that needed for earlier 4-panels was, to my eye, a refinement needed only if
those 4-panel gowns WERE fitted tightly enough for support: the side-front
and side-back seams depicted in paintings perfectly eliminated the underbust
and back waist wrinkles you get with (and ONLY with) a tightly fitted
4-panel gown. Through a lot of trial and error, I learned that the only
practical reason to put THOSE seams in THOSE exact places is in order to fit
the garment in a supportive manner. When I take a 4-panel gown and pinch-fit
it in such a way that the wrinkles are eliminated, the resulting seamlines
are exactly like the seamlines I see in paintings. (Even the weird ones that
looked ungainly and ungraceful, until I saw how _this_ weird bulge reduced
the stress at _this_ point, and how angling _that_ curve outwards made
_that_ part fit smoothly.)  Again, moderately convincing visual and
experimental evidence, but evidence that I could explain in other ways.

But the curved neckline, when it's more trouble to include than exclude? The
only way I can explain that is as proof that those curve-necked garments are
self-supporting, and that the women wearing it considered it worth the
trouble to conceal the neckline in exchange for the support it allowed!

-E House
Liberty in Our Lifetime - www.freestateproject.org
Coming Soon - http://www.seamcheckers.com



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Subject: [h-cost] pondering self-supporting cotes
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Brava!

Katie

At 03:54 PM 9/21/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>I've been meaning to post about this for a good month or so. I had one of
>those Eureka! moments, where  I look at things I've looked at a zillion
>times before, and suddenly, POP! one tiny little detail suddenly falls into
>place and I see all sorts of things in an entirely new light.


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In a message dated 9/21/04 4:41:22 PM Central Daylight Time, 
jauncourt@verizon.net writes:
I am compelled to ask that people PLEASE trim things to a more 
reasonable level before sending replies.

Thank you,
Maura
It would probably be good to mention how to do this; I don't think anyone is 
doing this intentionally or out of a lack of courtesy, but maybe through not 
understanding how it's happening in the first place.

I understand the way it works on many ISP's, when you simply hit "reply", 
everything that was sent TO you, is sent BACK to the list.  So if you are 
replying to a message that already has gotten very long, it sends the entire thing 
back again.

Again, as I understand it, the way to avoid this is to highlight a portion of 
the message that you are responding to - preferably a fairly short portion - 
and *then* hit the reply button.  This inserts just the part that you have 
highlighted, and leaves out the rest.


"Education is a progressive discovery of our own ignorance." -Will Durant
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I have just rec'd a 4-message digest, which contained within the first 
message the entirety of a 16-message digest. Also, in several recent 
digests, there have been replies that left not only the replied-to 
message, but all previous commentary in that thread. I've waded through 
at least twice as much old material as new in the last several days, and 
it's getting very tiresome.

I am compelled to ask that people PLEASE trim things to a more 
reasonable level before sending replies.

Thank you,
Maura

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On 9/21/2004, "Theflamingneedle@aol.com" <Theflamingneedle@aol.com> wrote:

>I understand the way it works on many ISP's, when you simply hit "reply",
>everything that was sent TO you, is sent BACK to the list.  So if you are
>replying to a message that already has gotten very long, it sends the entire
thing
>back again.
>
>Again, as I understand it, the way to avoid this is to highlight a portion
of
>the message that you are responding to - preferably a fairly short portion
-
>and *then* hit the reply button.  This inserts just the part that you have
>highlighted, and leaves out the rest.


Not every email system will do this. In many cases, you will have to hit
"reply", then select and delete the parts that you *don't* want.


Andrea

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Katie Pleasance <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] List courtesy
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I use Eudora and I have do do what Andrea describes. At this point it's 
habitual. I snip *every* document that I respond to because it's easier to 
do the snip thing on all replies than try to remember which ones need 
snipping and which ones don't.

>Not every email system will do this. In many cases, you will have to hit
>"reply", then select and delete the parts that you *don't* want.
>Andrea


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I think it's probably a good bet that if you don't know how to make your 
emailer do what you want it to, if you post here asking for help someone 
will try to assist.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du PrĂŠ Argent
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In a message dated 9/21/04 7:11:31 PM Central Daylight Time, 
cvirtue+dated+1111363654.959aaa@thibault.org writes:
I think it's probably a good bet that if you don't know how to make your 
emailer do what you want it to, if you post here asking for help someone 
will try to assist.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du PrĂŠ Argent

That's kind of what I was hoping would come of this - that people would be 
able to see that there are ways to do this, and if they don't know, they can ask.

I'm on AOL (obviously) and the highlight-reply method works on AOL.  Maybe it 
would be a good idea to have some sort of guidelines in the list archives 
that indicates how to be a polite poster?


"Education is a progressive discovery of our own ignorance." -Will Durant
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 20:32:06 2004
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Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2004 19:38:57 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pondering self-supporting cotes
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On Tue, 21 Sep 2004, E House wrote:

> Long ago, through very annoying trial and error, I discovered that you
> really _need_ a curved neckline for a good self-supporting cote.

Yes. Exactly. The dynamics of the stretch along the curve are a large part
of what pulls the bust into place and allows for flexibility where it's
needed.

<much snippage>

> There's simply no other reason for all those little workarounds to
> hide the curved neck (that I can find, at least) except that the
> curved neckline, for one reason or another, is _necessary_ and must be
> hidden rather than eliminated. And why would it be necessary? Because
> it is nigh unto impossible to make a working self-supporting cote with
> the fashionable necklines of the era. ... the only reason those curved
> necklines stuck around in defiance of fashion is that they offered
> something more important TO fashion: they are an indication that the
> gown is self-supporting, because there is no other reason to HAVE that
> curved neckline if they're NOT self-supporting!

<much more snippage>

Excellent explanation, logical train of thought, nice job all around. That
one's going in my keeper file.

--Robin
who normally talks about the stages that lead directly into this one

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] List courtesy
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At 08:13 PM 9/21/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>I'm on AOL (obviously) and the highlight-reply method works on AOL.  Maybe it
>would be a good idea to have some sort of guidelines in the list archives
>that indicates how to be a polite poster?


This site is the best one on trimming your posts that I have read, as far 
as netiquette goes.
http://c2.com/cgi/wiki?TrimYourPosts

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Owner ~ DreamTime Studios
http://www.dreamtime-studios.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

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I love our house - 4 bedrooms, each with a walk-in (really walk-in!!) 
closet.  Two of them have two hanging rods, and all have several shelves 
also.  One bedroom is the master, one is a guest room, and the other 2 are 
Pierre's and my sewing rooms, respectively.  His even has a nook with 
built-in cupboards and drawers.  We have separate rooms because our working 
styles are very different and very in-compatible.  He has the larger one 
because he has all his video equipment in there also.  The 4 rooms are 
arranged around a landing that is about 10 feet square.  The main bath and 
a linen closet (also walk-in) also open off the landing. The house also has 
a full finished attic and a full finished basement.  I wouldn't live in a 
house without a basement here in Nebraska - need somewhere to go when 
tornadoes come thru the area.

BTW, as far as I can tell, all this space is original - and the house was 
built around 1920.  Most of the interior doors also still have their 
original crystal doorknobs.

Sandy

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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At 01:08 PM 9/20/2004 -0500, you wrote:
<<massive snippage>>
>professionally producing reenactment and museum quality reproduction 
>clothing again.


Hi all,

I have no intentions of stepping on anyone's toes, or causing a flame war, 
but I have honest questions I hope to get honest answers to.

Would someone mind clarifying what exactly (or as much as possible) "museum 
quality reproduction clothing" would really translate into? Does that mean 
a garment is hand crafted (hand stitched, embroidered, whatever) just like 
an original would be? Or does it mean something else?

And what is the difference between that and "reenactment" style clothing? 
Is there a level of acceptable modern sewing techniques that define the 
two, or what?

You see I am wondering at what level my current skill set is, and what I 
should aspire to, and once I get there, what would I call that skill set. 
For that matter what should I call my current skill set (but that's for me 
to figure out, once I know these other terms.)

Thanks so much,

Kimiko

Kimiko Small
Owner ~ DreamTime Studios
http://www.dreamtime-studios.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] stupid stupid thing not to do.
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> Somewhere between $30 and $40, I think.  Exchange rate  fluctuates a
bit. 
>   When I was over there a couple of years ago (hi, Teddy! <g>), 

<waves animatedly>  Hi Sue!


Tedd
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In a message dated 9/22/04 1:22:38 AM Central Daylight Time, 
kimiko@kimiko1.com writes:
And what is the difference between that and "reenactment" style clothing? 
Is there a level of acceptable modern sewing techniques that define the 
two, or what?

I think the rough thing about this is that the definitions are going to vary 
by person, group and geographical location.

To me, museum quality indicates that it should take an expert a few moments 
of careful inspection in order to determine that what they are looking at is a 
reproduction and not an extant garment.  A thoroughly researched 
period-accurate pattern, materials, and construction method should have been used to create 
the garment, without shortcuts or modern this'll-do's. 

Then you have the much broader term "reproduction".  This one's much harder, 
because what qualifies as a "reproduction" depends on who you're asking.  Some 
people maintain the same standards as museum quality in order to call 
something a reproduction; some people use the word to describe items that bear only 
the remotest resemblance to period garments.  IMHO, reproduction is an honest 
and diligent attempt to recreate a period garment, using accurate patterns and 
as close as possible materials and construction methods.

Reenactment style is another one of those terms whose definition depends 
enormously on what reenactment group you're in.  This can run the gamut from a 
renaissance faire through a really progressive living history group.  Generally, 
a lot of faires and groups use the infamous Ten Foot Rule - as long as nothing 
is glaringly un-period about your ensemble from ten feet away, you're okay.  
Obviously this leaves a huge amount of room for interpretation and inaccuracy, 
but not everyone can afford, has the skill set, or even wants, to be 
completely accurate.  The reasons for making a concession here or a change there are 
as many as there are people in the hobby/profession.

Then there's just flat-out costumes, I guess LOL.  I think a lot more stuff 
falls under this category than their owners or creators would like to think, 
but with the "historical" patterns coming out in every JoAnn's and the growing 
popularity of historical reenacting, there's a lot more enthusiasm than 
research being generated.  That's okay with me, though ... the important thing is to 
assimilate as many people as we can into a love and study of history.  We'll 
worry about getting them clothed right as we go along.

"Education is a progressive discovery of our own ignorance." -Will Durant
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From: Ms Cynthia Schrage <pioneercynthia@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] No corset busk?
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DO NOT use Hook and Eye tape instead of a busk.

I have a corset with hook and eye tape and it is the
most cumbersome thing to get in and out of I've ever
worked with. Better to eliminate the busk altogether
than use that tape. I just don't even unhook mine, and
unlace it every time.

First, what play are you doing? What does this girl
have to change into? She could probably keep her
corset on no matter what, unless she's supposed to be
unclothed, and I doubt that, for a high-school play. I
just had a woman who had to change from a man to a
woman and she kept her corset on the whole time. No
one noticed, under her man's shirt and frock coat.

Use the plastic boning. I rec'd notes from Martha
McCain regarding her usage and she thinks it works
well. I would have to agree. Plastic is flexible like
whalebone and the steel bones are not really any more
period.

Again, if you have to have a front opening, use a
busk. Hook and eye tape doesn't work well. Maybe just
use one for her corset.

Also, you could just lightly bone the dresses.
Honestly, most high-school girls don't need a lot, and
will hate wearing a corset anyway. Have them wear
sports bras and they'll be "confined" enough for the
stage. What you want to eliminate is the jiggly, "lift
and separate" look, let alone the Wonderbra cleavage.

I want to hear more. <grin>

Cynthia


		
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Subject: [h-cost] V&A Museum gauntlets
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I have come across a pair of gauntlets at the V&A and have a question for 
you all here in history land. Does anyone have any further information on 
these that goes beyond that description as far as what that lining is on the 
what would have gone between the glove and the metal?

http://images.vam.ac.uk/ixbin/hixclient.exe?_IXSESSION_=&submit-button=SUMMARY&_IXIMAGE_=sch200212090930-010&_IXSS_=*sform=search_form&_IXMAXHITS_=15&_IXDB_=default&$=IXALL=glove&_IXSESSION_=&_IXSR_=xl1&_IXFIRST_=27&_IXMAXHITS_=1&_IXSPFX_=full/t&_IXFPFX_=full/t

What it looks like to me from what remains and from reading the description 
that the glove is made of silk is that whatever it was, was knitted. What do 
you all think? Does anyone know of this specific piece?

Chiara 

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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Skill set terms   WAS: Partially O.T. - Closets
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> Would someone mind clarifying what exactly (or as much as possible) 
> "museum quality reproduction clothing" would really translate into? 
> Does that mean a garment is hand crafted (hand stitched, embroidered, 
> whatever) just like an original would be? Or does it mean something else?

There is no standard definition of "museum quality."  People use 
whatever marketing terms they wish for their products or creations.  
People come up with their own (differing) definitions of "museum 
quality," many of which sound very sensible.  However, there is 
absolutely no way to impose a definition on anyone else. So everyone 
will continue to label their creations however they want. And every 
potential buyer will have a different idea of what these labels mean.

For real information, it is necessary to describe what you yourself are 
selling or creating in more detail.  For example, "Entirely hand sewn," 
"All external stitching done by hand but interior stitching done by 
machine," "All handspun, handwoven fabrics," "Machine-made fabrics that 
look handspun and handwoven," "All natural fibers," "All natural fibers 
plus best quality rayon," "All furs personally hunted, no ranch furs," 
"Best faux fur because preserving species is even more important than 
costume accuracy," etc.  That way, someone whose definition of "museum 
accuracy," requires handspun, handwoven fabric will not claim you 
misrepresented anything because you used machine-made materials.

>
> And what is the difference between that and "reenactment" style 
> clothing? Is there a level of acceptable modern sewing techniques that 
> define the two, or what?

There is a very wide range of "reenactment" clothing "authenticity"--and 
this is really another facet of the authenticity debate.   It's also 
related to "beginner/intermediate/advanced" sewer terminology.  People 
freely label themselves according to their self-conceptions. There is no 
universally defined skill set they need to call themselves 
"intermediate" or "advanced."  Sewing courses that require students to 
already have certain skills sensibly list the skills--instead of just 
saying "advanced" and assuming all students who register will have them.  

As for yourself, if you are creating clothing for sale customers will 
want and expect you to have advanced/professional skills.  As well as 
listing some skills, particularly any unusual ones or ones customers 
often ask for, people will expect you to provide a miniresume of how 
many years you've been using your skills and any relevant formal courses 
or degrees you've completed.

But if this is just a matter of self-definition, it really doesn't 
matter what you call yourself.  Every book and course for the 
"beginning," "intermediate," or "advanced" sewer will have different 
requirements, so you need to find out what those requirements are in 
each case.

>
> You see I am wondering at what level my current skill set is, and what 
> I should aspire to, and once I get there, what would I call that skill 
> set.

If you are a hobbyist you can aspire to whatever skill level you want.  
You can decide to aspire to the most advanced level.  You can decide you 
don't have the time or willpower for that, and it's fine to make things 
that look OK to you even if some other people make better ones.

Fran
Lavolta Press
Two new books on 1870s and 1880s clothing!
http://www.lavoltapress.com


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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 12:04:51 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: M Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] V&A Museum gauntlets
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Nice gauntlets... not knitted.
The only mention the V&A makes of the lining is "crimson silk lining ".
Looking at the lining more closely - (Thank you photoshop)  you can see the 
stitches at the back edge of the wrist area.  That's one good indicator 
that it is not knitted.
Secondly - looking at the wear patterns on the cloth of the silk you can 
see places where the pile is worn away,  as if the lining was made of a 
velvet.  Also,  more notably for knitting these are not holes or ladders.
And lastly... there are no stitches visable...  now you could argue that 
the piece was fulled to the point that the stitches were no longer 
visible....   but there are two problems with that. Firstly a fulled lining 
would be bulky for a glove,  and secondly,  silk doesn't full.

What I do see is a faded crimson lining likely of velvet.  Cut in one piece 
and then sewn to form a cone to go about the wrist with some pretty hefty 
stitches... (evidence that not all tailors were obsessed with 
neatness)   The cuff was then worked in silver thread in a curling vine 
motif between a lattice work of couched gold bars.   The outer edge was 
finished with an applied gold boullion cord.

My opinion.  YMMV.
Bridgette / Mari


>I have come across a pair of gauntlets at the V&A and have a question for
>you all here in history land. Does anyone have any further information on
>these that goes beyond that description as far as what that lining is on the
>what would have gone between the glove and the metal?
>
>http://images.vam.ac.uk/ixbin/hixclient.exe?_IXSESSION_=&submit-button=SUMMARY&_IXIMAGE_=sch200212090930-010&_IXSS_=*sform=search_form&_IXMAXHITS_=15&_IXDB_=default&$=IXALL=glove&_IXSESSION_=&_IXSR_=xl1&_IXFIRST_=27&_IXMAXHITS_=1&_IXSPFX_=full/t&_IXFPFX_=full/t
>
>What it looks like to me from what remains and from reading the description
>that the glove is made of silk is that whatever it was, was knitted. What do
>you all think? Does anyone know of this specific piece?
>
>Chiara

webmaster@vet.cornell.edu


Mari Stewart
College of Veterinary Medicine
Cornell University  

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] V&A Museum gauntlets
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Status: RO

What about the fingers?

Chiara
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "M Stewart" <ms154@cornell.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2004 11:04 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] V&A Museum gauntlets


:
: Nice gauntlets... not knitted.
: The only mention the V&A makes of the lining is "crimson silk lining ".
: Looking at the lining more closely - (Thank you photoshop)  you can see 
the
: stitches at the back edge of the wrist area.  That's one good indicator
: that it is not knitted.
: Secondly - looking at the wear patterns on the cloth of the silk you can
: see places where the pile is worn away,  as if the lining was made of a
: velvet.  Also,  more notably for knitting these are not holes or ladders.
: And lastly... there are no stitches visable...  now you could argue that
: the piece was fulled to the point that the stitches were no longer
: visible....   but there are two problems with that. Firstly a fulled 
lining
: would be bulky for a glove,  and secondly,  silk doesn't full.
:
: What I do see is a faded crimson lining likely of velvet.  Cut in one 
piece
: and then sewn to form a cone to go about the wrist with some pretty hefty
: stitches... (evidence that not all tailors were obsessed with
: neatness)   The cuff was then worked in silver thread in a curling vine
: motif between a lattice work of couched gold bars.   The outer edge was
: finished with an applied gold boullion cord.
:
: My opinion.  YMMV.
: Bridgette / Mari
:
:
: >I have come across a pair of gauntlets at the V&A and have a question for
: >you all here in history land. Does anyone have any further information on
: >these that goes beyond that description as far as what that lining is on 
the
: >what would have gone between the glove and the metal?
: >
: 
 >http://images.vam.ac.uk/ixbin/hixclient.exe?_IXSESSION_=&submit-button=SUMMARY&_IXIMAGE_=sch200212090930-010&_IXSS_=*sform=search_form&_IXMAXHITS_=15&_IXDB_=default&$=IXALL=glove&_IXSESSION_=&_IXSR_=xl1&_IXFIRST_=27&_IXMAXHITS_=1&_IXSPFX_=full/t&_IXFPFX_=full/t
: >
: >What it looks like to me from what remains and from reading the 
description
: >that the glove is made of silk is that whatever it was, was knitted. What 
do
: >you all think? Does anyone know of this specific piece?
: >
: >Chiara
:
: webmaster@vet.cornell.edu
:
:
: Mari Stewart
: College of Veterinary Medicine
: Cornell University
:
: _______________________________________________
: h-costume mailing list
: h-costume@mail.indra.com
: http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 13:15:54 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: M Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] V&A Museum gauntlets the fingers...
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Status: RO


Good question...   Made me go take a second look.

Looking at the left glove -
There is some 'material' left on the thumb.  I can't tell what it is.
The fingers look pretty well preserved on the exterior - which makes me 
hazzard that this person was right handed.  From what I can see at the 
index and center fingers there is a curve of fiber.  If the fingers were 
knit a single curve of fiber would not remain as a paralell to the metal 
finger of the gauntlet...  either the whole finger would be there or it 
would be unravelled in a line perpendicular to the length of the metal 
finger lames.   Now,  the whole finger of the glove could be there and I 
just can't see it.
But what this looks like to me is that the same metal cording that was 
couched at the rim of the cuff,  was also used to finish the seams of sewn 
gloves.

Looking at the right glove -
  The same holds true here in regards to the fingers.  But here the thumb 
is turned so that the glove side is exposed,  no material is in 
evidence.  (or at least not enough for me to venture anything on.)
What I find most interesting is the lump of metallic rings at the edge 
(near the thumb) on the right hand glove.   This could be mistaken for 
knitting,  but indeed it is not crimson,  and has a more metallic 
cast...  On enlargement you can see that these are rings of mail.  I cannot 
enlarge enough with clarity to see if they are overlapped and riveted.  But 
that would be my suspicion.  That would indicate that a mail glove of fine 
gauge was attached to the lames of the gauntlet...  and then the edge bound 
with the gold braid.

Again,  my opinion.
Bridgette/ Mari

>What about the fingers?
>
>Chiara

webmaster@vet.cornell.edu


Mari Stewart
College of Veterinary Medicine
Cornell University  

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Kimiko asked:

> Would someone mind clarifying what exactly (or as much as possible) "museum 
> quality reproduction clothing" would really translate into? Does that mean 
> a garment is hand crafted (hand stitched, embroidered, whatever) just like 
> an original would be? Or does it mean something else?

It means, according to my mother (who has been a museum curator as well 
as a reenactor and historic costumer and researcher), that only period 
techniques and materials are used (cloth, dyes or inks, trimmmings). 
Sometimes even original materilas, if in good condition, are used. How 
much is handwork and how much is machine work depends on the period in 
question, and my mother has gone so far as to purchase two civil-war 
treadle machines to use for machine sewing items of that time, and when 
she made medieval Irish clothing for a lecture series she wove the wool 
cloth herself to acheive the correct textures.

The finished garment or accessory should be indistinguishable from an 
actual period item in every way except age. It's the Historic Costume 
equivalent of high-end, custom coture sewing. It's also priced 
accordingly - hats run between 100 and 500 dollars. Full costumes would 
be much more.

> And what is the difference between that and "reenactment" style clothing? 
> Is there a level of acceptable modern sewing techniques that define the 
> two, or what?

Good reenactment quality clothing often allows for modern but acceptable 
materials, modern machine sewing on non-visible seams, modern materials 
whee they won't be seen, etc. It's still custom sewing, but the degree 
of attention to detail, and the time involved, is different. Certainly 
more affordable. It's meant to be more accessible to the average 
middle-class reenactor, and there are varying degrees of authenticity 
according to the needs and wants of the client.

Maura
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Subject: [h-cost] 15thC shoe sellers?
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I don't know much at all about 15th century shoes, beyond having seen them
in occasionally in period art, but I'd like to buy (buy, not make;
buybuybuy) a reasonably accurate pair. Any suggestions of makers/dealers who
could supply me for something less than, oh say, $100ish?

Anyone? Marc?

-E House
Liberty in Our Lifetime - www.freestateproject.org
Coming Soon - http://www.seamcheckers.com

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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 13:37:06 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] V&A Museum gauntlets
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>http://images.vam.ac.uk/ixbin/hixclient.exe?_IXSESSION_=&submit-button=SUMMARY&_IXIMAGE_=sch200212090930-010&_IXSS_=*sform=search_form&_IXMAXHITS_=15&_IXDB_=default&$=IXALL=glove&_IXSESSION_=&_IXSR_=xl1&_IXFIRST_=27&_IXMAXHITS_=1&_IXSPFX_=full/t&_IXFPFX_=full/t

My browser choked on this url.  Can you give it to me shorter somehow?


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
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            ((((   7 )))
             (((  <> ))))
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] I'm Back
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I am back from Liverpool, England.  We had a blast in this very cultural city. Liverpool Institute of Performing Arts is everything they promised plus more.  The apartment buildings where my son is staying, used to be the maternity hospital from 1920s-1983.  John Lennon was born there.   

I spent all my free time, between the two main cathedrals photographing their artwork and embroidery.  I also interviewed the artists behind an unusual exhibit of coats.  I will fill you all on these things later.  

I thought when I left, that I was getting away from hurricanes.  While I was out, one hit Pensacola... where my website is hosted.  My websites were down from last Wednesday and just came back up tonight.  Thank goodness.  I was getting a little panicked when I found out the company was three blocks from the beach.  BTW, when I returned, we received the hurricane the next day.  Lots more rain!  I think this is number 5 or 6 hurricane for us since Aug. 1.

I better get back to work... lots of catching up to do.   
  
Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Online Reference Library, AND Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumegallery.com/research.htm  
www.costumeclassroom.com 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] V&A Museum gauntlets
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Not really.

What I did was go to the main site, did a search for gloves, went to the 
second page of the search results, and selected the image. That is the best 
I can give you.

Chiara
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2004 3:37 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] V&A Museum gauntlets


:
: 
 >http://images.vam.ac.uk/ixbin/hixclient.exe?_IXSESSION_=&submit-button=SUMMARY&_IXIMAGE_=sch200212090930-010&_IXSS_=*sform=search_form&_IXMAXHITS_=15&_IXDB_=default&$=IXALL=glove&_IXSESSION_=&_IXSR_=xl1&_IXFIRST_=27&_IXMAXHITS_=1&_IXSPFX_=full/t&_IXFPFX_=full/t
:
: My browser choked on this url.  Can you give it to me shorter somehow?
:
:
:        CarolynKayta Barrows
: dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
:          www.FunStuft.com
:
:              //// \\\
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 18:06:03 2004
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In a message dated 9/22/2004 8:59:21 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:


> Again, as I understand it, the way to avoid this is to highlight a portion 
> of 
> the message that you are responding to - preferably a fairly short portion - 
> 
> and *then* hit the reply button.  This inserts just the part that you have 
> highlighted, and leaves out the rest.
> 

Oh, bless you, bless you, bless you. I have avoided replying sometimes, 
because I didn't know how to do this very thing. So, I came here for costume info, 
and learned computer protocols .. . Nice when you can do two things at once!

~Caiterina nic Sheamus
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <003601c49f43$1d783960$4096fea9@CPQ21932199711>	<414F8217.4010402@in-tch.com>	<550905E8-0B6D-11D9-8A80-000A95C59FB2@ntw.net>	<414FC2B1.6020609@kabelfoon.nl><4A3946D8-0BD6-11D9-9B97-000A95C59FB2@ntw.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] stupid stupid thing not to do.
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 18:40:29 -0400
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When in England for the past couple of weeks, I taught my son to look at every pricetag as  double the price what it is in the States.  An example: 3 - 4 pounds for a Burger King meal is really 6-7 dollars.  The exchange was running around $1.80-$1.85 to a pound.  The hardest thing to get used to is that the price tag in stores is similar to the U.S. but it actually costs you almost double.  The only business we found the price in exchange about the same was Costco (without the VAT tax).  Meaning that Costco in England charges in the exchange what the U.S. price is.   

We did love the no tipping policy.  We learned that one quickly.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Online Reference Library, AND Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumegallery.com/research.htm  
www.costumeclassroom.com 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] stupid stupid thing not to do.
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Status: RO

I have been accepting international money with my business for a while.  One thing you need to look if you are U.S. based, is that if you accept international checks or money orders, your bank probably will charge you a fee for sending the check to international collections.  We had a check from Australia that took two months to clear.  That tied my money up for a while.  Then we got charged by our bank and the Australian bank, fees for the conversion.  I lost about $100 in the deal.  The check was written in US dollars on an Australian bank.  I had such a problem with this transaction.  I had to show the bank all sorts of letters as to the agreement with person.   I think I will stick to Paypal for most international transactions.  The fees and processing time are a lot less.  

The U.S. Postal service has an agreement with several countries for international postal money orders.  When someone sends a money order from the countries listed at:
http://www.usps.com/money/sendingmoney/sendmoneyinternationally.htm you can take the international money order to your local post office and cash it.  This is a good way to avoid the bank and the international collection process.  You can also do the vice versa when U.S. people sending money orders to these countries.
    
Penny E. Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery & Online Reference Library, AND Costume Classroom
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumegallery.com/research.htm  
www.costumeclassroom.com 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Partially O.T. - Closets (WAS: Storage andorganization)
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 16:19:14 -0700
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> > Houses were taxed based on the number of rooms, and closets
> > counted as extra rooms (or something like that -- maybe it
> > was number of doors?).

A I understand it, in California, for tax purposes, it's only considered a
bedroom if it has a closet.  An aquaintance who re-remodeled a 130  year old
house went so far as to remove some later added closets, so as to be able to
pay tax on a three bedroom house, rather than a seven bedroom.

When I was househunting a few months ago,  I looked at several houses that
were billed as "2 bedrooms plus office" and the difference in all cases
seemed to be that the "offices" didn't have closets.

Margo

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Huh? I've lived in California for nearly 50 years, most of it as a 
home-owner, but also as a real estate agent and as a real estate broker. 
I've never heard of any US government agency basing taxes on a bedroom 
having closets or not.

However, at least, in Washington State, the capability of your rural 
property to handle septic tank sewage determines the number of bedrooms 
your house can contain. That influences the size of the house, which 
influences it's market value, which determines it's annual property tax. 
Thus, if you can have a bedroom legally declared not to be a bedroom, your 
house can have more rooms that function as bedrooms than the building 
permit allows. Maybe in that case, lack of a closet makes it a not-bedroom 
and therefore legal on a lot that allows a limited number of bedrooms.

Is this WAY off-topic, or what <smile>

Katie

At 04:19 PM 9/22/2004 -0700, you wrote:
> > > Houses were taxed based on the number of rooms, and closets
> > > counted as extra rooms (or something like that -- maybe it
> > > was number of doors?).
>
>A I understand it, in California, for tax purposes, it's only considered a
>bedroom if it has a closet.  An aquaintance who re-remodeled a 130  year old
>house went so far as to remove some later added closets, so as to be able to
>pay tax on a three bedroom house, rather than a seven bedroom.
>
>When I was househunting a few months ago,  I looked at several houses that
>were billed as "2 bedrooms plus office" and the difference in all cases
>seemed to be that the "offices" didn't have closets.
>
>Margo


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] V&A Museum gauntlets
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 00:31:12 +0000
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Goodness I can't even do a cut and paste to get this url to paste!  I know about tiny url web page, but just can't make the thing work.  
--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 
Emer's Needle Wares


-------------- Original message -------------- 

> I have come across a pair of gauntlets at the V&A and have a question for 
> you all here in history land. Does anyone have any further information on 
> these that goes beyond that description as far as what that lining is on the 
> what would have gone between the glove and the metal? 
> 
> http://images.vam.ac.uk/ixbin/hixclient.exe?_IXSESSION_=&submit-button=SUMMARY&_ 
> IXIMAGE_=sch200212090930-010&_IXSS_=*sform=search_form&_IXMAXHITS_=15&_IXDB_=def 
> ault&$=IXALL=glove&_IXSESSION_=&_IXSR_=xl1&_IXFIRST_=27&_IXMAXHITS_=1&_IXSPFX_=f 
> ull/t&_IXFPFX_=full/t 
> 
> What it looks like to me from what remains and from reading the description 
> that the glove is made of silk is that whatever it was, was knitted. What do 
> you all think? Does anyone know of this specific piece? 
> 
> Chiara 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Blackwork:  freeform versus counted
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "~Angelique" <ivycircle@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2004 2:16 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Blackwork: freeform versus counted


> I am confused about the application of blackwork to underclothing (chemise
or my husband's shirt) I enjoy the counted blackwork and make mine on 32
linen. I then cut it out and add it as trim. I don't understand how to work
the blackwork on the garment if it's counted. Any suggestions would be
extremely helpful.
> Thank you, ~Angeliqur

I'm not sure exactly what you're having trouble with but I'll make a guess
at two possible problems.
The easiest way to do embroidery directly onto a garment is to draw the
shape of your pattern onto uncut fabric embroider within those lines and
then cut it out this means you can put it in a frame to avoid distortion.
If you're having trouble counting the threads in the fabric you've used for
your undergarments then a magnifying glass may help (you can buy free
standing ones designed for this sort of craft work) or otherwise you can
draw your pattern onto the fabric or (what I did when I wanted to do
blackwork onto a strip of bias tape) get some grid paper with a grid the
size you want your stitches to be and put a dot at the corners of each
square so your stitches will be uniform length but you don't have to count
threads.
Is that what you wanted?
Elizabeth
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
Elizabeth Beaumont              Elizabeth Walpole
             in                         OR                 in
Politarchopolis, Lochac        Canberra, Australia
             ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au

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Subject: OT Re: [h-cost] stupid stupid thing not to do. - EEC Customs' Duties
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "julian wilson" <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2004 12:48 AM
Subject: [h-cost] stupid stupid thing not to do. - EEC Customs' Duties


> Er, hasn't anyone told you people that the European Union - aka France &
germany in control of the Brussels Bureaucracy - is conducting a Trade War
against the USA?
> According to the States Of Jersey Director of Customs & Excise, EU
Customs' Duties are now being increased on US goods, on a sliding scale
which is set to increase months by month - until Brussels gets whatever
p-articular concessions it is seeking from the US Government at this time.

Er, sortof. I heard the story on the news a little while ago, the
International trade regulating body (whose name I can't remember) ruled that
certain US tariffs on European goods were illegal, since the US refused to
repeal these tariffs the EU has been granted permission to introduce
retaliatory tariffs. But yes I'm pretty sure your statement about customs
duties increasing steadily until one side or the other gives in is correct.
And although you are the one who pays the real aim is to hurt the US and as
several people on this list  are choosing not to buy things from the USA due
to this higher tariff it appears to be working (if we assume this list is a
representative sample).
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
Elizabeth Beaumont              Elizabeth Walpole
             in                         OR                 in
Politarchopolis, Lochac        Canberra, Australia
             ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au

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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 19:15:35 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Partially O.T. - Closets (WAS: Storage andorganization)
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At 4:19 PM -0700 9/22/04, <lists@margospatterns.com> wrote:
>  > > Houses were taxed based on the number of rooms, and closets
>>  > counted as extra rooms (or something like that -- maybe it
>>  > was number of doors?).
>
>A I understand it, in California, for tax purposes, it's only considered a
>bedroom if it has a closet.  An aquaintance who re-remodeled a 130  year old
>house went so far as to remove some later added closets, so as to be able to
>pay tax on a three bedroom house, rather than a seven bedroom.

It's even more complicated than that -- to count as a "bedroom" it 
also has to have a minimum square footage and window-to-area ratio. 
One of my units has a "large walk-in closet" that itself has a closet 
... because the "large walk-in closet" is too small and has too small 
a window to count as a legal bedroom.  (Note that some details may be 
local rather than state-wide regulations.)

Heather
-- 
****
Heather Rose Jones
heather.jones@earthlink.net
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] V&A Museum gauntlets
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http://images.vam.ac.uk/

do a search for gloves then go to page 2 of the search results then select 
these gauntlets.

Chiara
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <gia_gavino@comcast.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2004 7:31 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] V&A Museum gauntlets


: Goodness I can't even do a cut and paste to get this url to paste!  I know 
about tiny url web page, but just can't make the thing work.
: --
: Slan go foill
: Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri
: Emer's Needle Wares
:
:
: -------------- Original message -------------- 
:
: > I have come across a pair of gauntlets at the V&A and have a question 
for
: > you all here in history land. Does anyone have any further information 
on
: > these that goes beyond that description as far as what that lining is on 
the
: > what would have gone between the glove and the metal?
: >
: > 
http://images.vam.ac.uk/ixbin/hixclient.exe?_IXSESSION_=&submit-button=SUMMARY&_
: > 
IXIMAGE_=sch200212090930-010&_IXSS_=*sform=search_form&_IXMAXHITS_=15&_IXDB_=def
: > 
ault&$=IXALL=glove&_IXSESSION_=&_IXSR_=xl1&_IXFIRST_=27&_IXMAXHITS_=1&_IXSPFX_=f
: > ull/t&_IXFPFX_=full/t
: >
: > What it looks like to me from what remains and from reading the 
description
: > that the glove is made of silk is that whatever it was, was knitted. 
What do
: > you all think? Does anyone know of this specific piece?
: >
: > Chiara
: >
: > _______________________________________________
: > h-costume mailing list
: > h-costume@mail.indra.com
: > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
: _______________________________________________
: h-costume mailing list
: h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Changing the subject line befre you post a reply...(WAS:
	Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 3, Issue 772)
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[h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 3, Issue 772

> Oh, bless you, bless you, bless you. I have avoided replying
sometimes, 
> because I didn't know how to do this very thing. So, I came here for
costume
> info,  and learned computer protocols .. . Nice when you can do two 
> things at once!
> 
> ~Caiterina nic Sheamus

Also, changing the subject line (especially if you are relying to a
message from a digest) to reflect the actual message you are replying to
instead of just the name and number of the digest (see the subject line
of this message for an example)

It is easy to be so intnet on the content of yoru reply that you forget
to change the subject line (I've doen it myself, often enough that I
have to consciously make the effort to do it *before* I start typing in
my reply)

Teddy
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From: "Angharad ver' Reynulf" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] shots of handfasting-Angharad/wolfcat's
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Robin,

Molly got part of her website up and for now at least,
there are a few shots from the handfasting showing the
sideless as it begins to take form.

It also has a shot of the "Five of a Kind" and
"Rapping Uruk-Hai" masquerade presentations and some
detail on how/why we did them.

www.rampantpeacock.net

The handfasting is under "Members Only" and the rest
under "Masquerade" for obvious reasons.  I'm also in a
partial shot of one of her Seattle Knight personas.

Angharad/wolfcat


		
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Subject: [h-cost] Folding cutting table
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Kimiko,

Tell me more about this table. Is it wooden or heavy
cardboard? You purchased it at JoAnn's? Does it have a
brand name?

Thanks,
Cynthia
Who's posting a lot because she's finally getting to
read her e-mail after a flurry of sewing! <grin>

> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2004 17:01:23 -0700
> From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Storage and organization
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID:
> <5.2.1.1.0.20040919165837.02500d18@64.87.54.245>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii";
> format=flowed
> 
> At 10:56 AM 9/17/2004 -0700, you wrote:
> >there's enough floorspace for the cutting mat to
> lay
> >on the floor--as long as I manage to keep it clean,
> that is!
> 
> 
> I love my folding cutting table. When not in use,
> it's about 8" wide so it 
> is easily out of the way against my cube bookcase.
> When I need to cut, it 
> opens to many feet wide, big enough to cut large
> skirts in full on it. I 
> can also use it with just one leaf open, which is
> most of the time. Getting 
> older and fatter, my back wasn't able to handle the
> stress of cutting on 
> the floor anymore. So I got this at Joanne's with a
> coupon, and it is well 
> worth even the original price.
> 
> fwiw,
> 
> Kimiko
> 
> 



		
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 10:02:28 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Folding cutting table
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
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Kimiko, is this the table they often offer on sale for almost half-price?
Usually about $130, but often as low as $69? I've wanted one of those
forever, but there's just no room in my small flat until I get the fabrics
and millinery supplies organized and weeded out. I'm working on deadlines
now but hope to get to it before November. And maybe Jo-Ann will cooperate
and offer it on sale again.


> From: Ms Cynthia Schrage <pioneercynthia@yahoo.com>
> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 09:40:43 -0700 (PDT)
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] Folding cutting table
> 
> Kimiko,
> 
> Tell me more about this table. Is it wooden or heavy
> cardboard? You purchased it at JoAnn's? Does it have a
> brand name?
> 
> Thanks,
> Cynthia
> Who's posting a lot because she's finally getting to
> read her e-mail after a flurry of sewing! <grin>
> 



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Dear Bjarne,

I really like your work. I am interested in the "Kyoto
Book". Can you tell me more about it.

Also, I just can't believe the quality of the work you
do. I have e-mailed your pages to a number of sewing
friends and we all believe that you are the "demi-god"
of costuming. <smile>

We all want to know what you are charging (price) for
doing the costuming you make? (Obviously, the exchange
rate will have to be done by me.)  Do you charge by
the hour, or by the job? Do your patrons provide their
own materials, or is that something you do with them.
(Under consultation, of course.)

I am sending this both to you, and to the list.
Perhaps there are others who would like to know. I am
new, and if this has already been widely discussed, I
would be happy to check the archives, if someone can
tell me how.

Thank you very much,
Cynthia



		
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Angharad ver' Reynulf" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 23, 2004 9:39 AM
Subject: [h-cost] shots of handfasting-Angharad/wolfcat's


Robin,

Molly got part of her website up and for now at least,
there are a few shots from the handfasting showing the
sideless as it begins to take form.

It also has a shot of the "Five of a Kind" and
"Rapping Uruk-Hai" masquerade presentations and some
detail on how/why we did them.

www.rampantpeacock.net




Website address is not right @ where.

Brin Kendall
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From: "Angharad ver' Reynulf" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] shots of handfasting-Angharad/wolfcat's
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My apologies everyone, and ESPECIALLY to Molly.

YAHOO is fouling up my mail lately.  I hit "reply to
sender" and still, foul up.

the website is up partially up.  the direct which I
got after excitedly trying to send to Robin the shots
so she could see what I did with the wool I purchased
from her is:

www.rampantpeacock.net/jonnalyhn_and_nick.htm

I checked it again, and it is working for me at home
and at work.

eggy-faced Angharad




		
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Angharad ver' Reynulf" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 23, 2004 6:39 PM
Subject: [h-cost] shots of handfasting-Angharad/wolfcat's


> Robin,
>
> Molly got part of her website up and for now at least,
> there are a few shots from the handfasting showing the
> sideless as it begins to take form.
>
> It also has a shot of the "Five of a Kind" and
> "Rapping Uruk-Hai" masquerade presentations and some
> detail on how/why we did them.
>
> www.rampantpeacock.net
>
> The handfasting is under "Members Only" and the rest
> under "Masquerade" for obvious reasons.  I'm also in a
> partial shot of one of her Seattle Knight personas.
>
> Angharad/wolfcat


Hi,
Pictures worked fine for me. Thanks for letting us see, very nice pictures
and costumes.

Bjarne


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Subject: [h-cost] British university scarves
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I was going to ask this question here, but then I thought "I'll try a 
websearch first."  And I found the answer, which was interesting, so I'm 
posting the URL here.

I have an Unseen University scarf which is made of woven wool.  And yet, 
the Harry Potter movies show official school scarves which are knit. 
Which is the true traditional UK scarf?

The answer is: both.  Prior to the war, they were knit.  During the war, 
woven fabric with long stripes was substituted, and when knitted was 
possible again, many stayed with that style.

http://uppers.org/showArticle.asp?article=516

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du PrĂŠ Argent

Register to vote!  Don't let that other guy win!
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Subject: [h-cost] 15thC shoe sellers? 
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[Bleah, I posted this a while back but it never came through. Apologies to those who may get it twice, if my first post ever does come through.]


I don't know much at all about 15th century shoes, beyond having seen them
in occasionally in period art, but I'd like to buy (buy, not make;
buybuybuy) a reasonably accurate pair. Any suggestions of makers/dealers who
could supply me for something less than, oh say, $100ish?

Anyone? Marc?

-E House
Liberty in Our Lifetime - www.freestateproject.org
Coming Soon - http://www.seamcheckers.com
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 15thC shoe sellers?
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 20:47:06 -0400
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On Thursday 23 September 2004 4:41 pm, E House wrote:
> [Bleah, I posted this a while back but it never came through. Apologies to
> those who may get it twice, if my first post ever does come through.]
>
>
> I don't know much at all about 15th century shoes, beyond having seen them
> in occasionally in period art, but I'd like to buy (buy, not make;
> buybuybuy) a reasonably accurate pair. Any suggestions of makers/dealers
> who could supply me for something less than, oh say, $100ish?

Historic Enterprises sells a turnshoe they claim is good for both genders for 
the period from 1300 to 1485 for $85.

http://www.historicenterprises.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=225&c=40

You can also buy a pair of pattens from them, if you wish, for $50:

http://www.historicenterprises.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=226&c=40

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 21:32:08 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Folding cutting table
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At 09:40 AM 9/23/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>Kimiko,
>
>Tell me more about this table. Is it wooden or heavy
>cardboard? You purchased it at JoAnn's? Does it have a
>brand name?
>
>Thanks,
>Cynthia
>Who's posting a lot because she's finally getting to
>read her e-mail after a flurry of sewing! <grin>


Hi Cynthia,

Sorry it took a few days to reply, I've been busy sewing for a deadline 
(and it looks like I beat it).

The table is a heavy wooden thing on black metal struts on wheels. It is 
just the right height for me to cut comfortably (I am 5'6"). The top is 
melamine coated, so it doesn't snag fabrics. Both sides drop, so I can 
chose to have it fully extended, partially extended, or both sides dropped 
to store away. If it wasn't for the stuff on my closet floor, I could put 
it in my small walk-in closet.

Joanne's and Hancocks both carry them, and I think I got mine at Hancocks 
on sale several Xmas seasons ago. I don't know the brand name, and tried to 
look it up on both sites, with no success. I know there is an ironing table 
top that fits this table (on my wish list), and that the large cutting mat 
fits just one leaf nicely (I use that frequently with my rotary cutters). I 
have also seen a version someplace that has a drawer just under the 8" or 
so section of the table that doesn't drop, but I don't need that extra 
drawer. I have also seen blueprints for a similar table on eBay, that an 
experienced carpenter could create.

hth,

Kimiko

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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 21:33:42 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Folding cutting table
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At 10:02 AM 9/23/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>Kimiko, is this the table they often offer on sale for almost half-price?
>Usually about $130, but often as low as $69? I've wanted one of those
>forever, but there's just no room in my small flat until I get the fabrics
>and millinery supplies organized and weeded out. I'm working on deadlines
>now but hope to get to it before November. And maybe Jo-Ann will cooperate
>and offer it on sale again.


Yes, yes that's the one. They offer it on sale several times a year, 
especially for Xmas. I saw it every year and finally got myself one a few 
Xmas ago.

Kimiko


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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 22:34:12 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Skill set terms   WAS: Partially O.T. - Closets
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At 08:57 AM 9/22/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>As for yourself, if you are creating clothing for sale customers will want 
>and expect you to have advanced/professional skills.  As well as listing 
>some skills, particularly any unusual ones or ones customers often ask 
>for, people will expect you to provide a miniresume of how many years 
>you've been using your skills and any relevant formal courses or degrees 
>you've completed.


Thank you Fran for your frank discourse on this. I am trying to start my 
own business, and have many years of sewing and costume skills. However, I 
am not sure what level my skills would rank as. I know it is above 
beginner, but am I still in Intermediate level or finally considered 
advanced? I think your descriptors of what for the garments I make would be 
the best way to advertise my skill set, that way a person can decide for 
themselves if I provide what they are looking for. I will leave the terms 
of Intermediate and Advanced aside as "too vague" for now. Perhaps when I 
have actually competed or something I will have a better indicator of my 
skills.

Thanks again Fran,

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Owner ~ DreamTime Studios
http://www.dreamtime-studios.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 22:41:48 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Skill set terms
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At 02:11 PM 9/22/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Good reenactment quality clothing often allows for modern but acceptable 
>materials, modern machine sewing on non-visible seams, modern materials 
>whee they won't be seen, etc. It's still custom sewing, but the degree of 
>attention to detail, and the time involved, is different. Certainly more 
>affordable. It's meant to be more accessible to the average middle-class 
>reenactor, and there are varying degrees of authenticity according to the 
>needs and wants of the client.
>
>Maura


Thank you Maura for explaining those terms from your mother. While I have 
studied and done some spinning, dyeing and weaving, I don't have the time 
currently with my own little boy to be able to attain the high end, 
completely hand crafted garment that your mother is able to do.

But I can see myself in the good quality reenactment level. I do a lot of 
handsewing in my garments, even on the inside of some things (like hand 
padstitched standing collars, and hand bound eyelets), because it provides 
a better quality garment. However, most clients so far seem to balk at the 
idea of hand sewing outer trim as too time consuming (time = money), so I 
have learned how to machine sew them without being too obvious. I guess it 
will depend on the client, as I have learned both ways and am willing to do 
both ways.

Thanks Maura for sharing your mother's gifts. She would be an excellent 
example of someone I do aspire to be like, perhaps when my son is older.

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Owner ~ DreamTime Studios
http://www.dreamtime-studios.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2004 22:47:26 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Partially O.T. - Closets (WAS: Storage andorganization)
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At 04:19 PM 9/22/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>When I was househunting a few months ago,  I looked at several houses that
>were billed as "2 bedrooms plus office" and the difference in all cases
>seemed to be that the "offices" didn't have closets.
>
>Margo


That's interesting. We recently had our home built, and now have a four 
bedroom + hobby room house - that's how the builders have it listed in 
their models. But my hobby room has a closet (and is my sewing room). The 
"hobby room" could have been a third garage without a closet, obviously. We 
could have also made my husband's room, which he calls an office, into a 
dining room, but then we would have lost the closet and replaced it with an 
open archway. In my opinion, closets are a great thing to have, if you have 
enough of them.

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Owner ~ DreamTime Studios
http://www.dreamtime-studios.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 15thC shoe sellers?
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Honestly, though, I'm looking for something a little bit dressier, though I
do like Historic Entrprises' work, and look forward to having them as my
biggest competition in the non-shoe arena in the future. =} Well, actually,
I do plan to buy a pair of their pattens some day, but for the dressy,
fashionable late 15th/very early 16th C stuff, those turnshoes just don't
seem quite right.

Are there just no other places? I've seen some lovely and as far as I can
tell well made stuff for earlier centuries, but ~1420-1520 seems to get
skipped over. (I _really_ don't want to have to make my shoes!) Is my only
option to hire someone for custom work?

-E House
Liberty in Our Lifetime - www.freestateproject.org
Coming Soon - http://www.seamcheckers.com

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] 15thC shoe sellers?
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Try Bohemond or Revival Clothing. 

http://www.highfiber.com/~bohemond/

http://www.revivalclothing.com/catpages/cat_lowboots.htm

I have seen Bohemond's poulanes ($65), and almost bought a pair. My husband has a pair of the low boots from Revival Clothing ($75) on the recommendation of a friend. They look great, but are as described "a fine compromise between authenticity, function and cost". I'm eagerly awaiting my own pair. It's not their fault that they're not here yet; I've neglected to get back to them with sizing information.

Melanie 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Catherine Olanich Raymond
Sent: Thursday, September 23, 2004 5:47 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 15thC shoe sellers?


On Thursday 23 September 2004 4:41 pm, E House wrote:
> [Bleah, I posted this a while back but it never came through. Apologies to
> those who may get it twice, if my first post ever does come through.]
>
>
> I don't know much at all about 15th century shoes, beyond having seen them
> in occasionally in period art, but I'd like to buy (buy, not make;
> buybuybuy) a reasonably accurate pair. Any suggestions of makers/dealers
> who could supply me for something less than, oh say, $100ish?

Historic Enterprises sells a turnshoe they claim is good for both genders for 
the period from 1300 to 1485 for $85.

http://www.historicenterprises.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=225&c=40

You can also buy a pair of pattens from them, if you wish, for $50:

http://www.historicenterprises.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=226&c=40

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Sep 24 12:41:23 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 15thC shoe sellers?
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Did a bit of a search online, you can get what you are looking for, it will
depend on how much you want to spend.

http://www.by-the-sword.com/acatalog/Medieval_Footwear.html
http://members.lycos.co.uk/KnightOE/chatelaines.htm
http://www.plantagenetshoes.freeserve.co.uk/
http://www.highfiber.com/~bohemond/Bootshop/period-page/period-boots.htm

Quality seems to vary widely, you may want to contact these folks before you
order.

Sheridan

----- Original Message -----
From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, September 24, 2004 9:57 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 15thC shoe sellers?


> Honestly, though, I'm looking for something a little bit dressier, though
I
> do like Historic Entrprises' work, and look forward to having them as my
> biggest competition in the non-shoe arena in the future. =} Well,
actually,
> I do plan to buy a pair of their pattens some day, but for the dressy,
> fashionable late 15th/very early 16th C stuff, those turnshoes just don't
> seem quite right.
>
> Are there just no other places? I've seen some lovely and as far as I can
> tell well made stuff for earlier centuries, but ~1420-1520 seems to get
> skipped over. (I _really_ don't want to have to make my shoes!) Is my only
> option to hire someone for custom work?
>
> -E House
> Liberty in Our Lifetime - www.freestateproject.org
> Coming Soon - http://www.seamcheckers.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2004 17:54:29 +0100 (BST)
From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] British university scarves
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Dear Cynthia and List,
Cynthia posted - "I have an Unseen University scarf which is made of woven wool. And yet, the Harry Potter movies show official school scarves which are knit. Which is the true traditional UK scarf?"

I lived in Essex, England, and went to a private Prep  School as a Dayboy- and the School Scarves of that school were knitted during and just after the 2nd World War,  in 1948, I gained my Entrance to one of the local High Schools, - and their school scarves were woven - and since the School had 4 Houses, woven in the colours of each House. 
So that little ancedote takes your historical perspective back over 50 years, in re: Essex, England at the least.
 
Cynthia posted - "I have an Unseen University scarf ...
You have an Unseen University scarf? Where on earth did you find that!
 My 2 sons are great  Terry Pratchett fans, and an Unseen University scarf each would make very welcome and most unusual Christams present. Can I beg you to let me know where you obtained it? From the Uppers? Do tell, please, please, please.
 
Julian Wilson,
in "olde" Jersey.




		
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----Elizabeth,

     Thank you, I wasn't sure howto add Blackwork with no distortion. :-) 

Have a wonderful Friday, ~ Angelique



I'm not sure exactly what you're having trouble with but I'll make a guess
at two possible problems.
The easiest way to do embroidery directly onto a garment is to draw the
shape of your pattern onto uncut fabric embroider within those lines and
then cut it out this means you can put it in a frame to avoid distortion.
If you're having trouble counting the threads in the fabric you've used for
your undergarments then a magnifying glass may help (you can buy free
standing ones designed for this sort of craft work) or otherwise you can
draw your pattern onto the fabric or (what I did when I wanted to do
blackwork onto a strip of bias tape) get some grid paper with a grid the
size you want your stitches to be and put a dot at the corners of each
square so your stitches will be uniform length but you don't have to count
threads.
Is that what you wanted?
Elizabeth
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
Elizabeth Beaumont Elizabeth Walpole
in OR in
Politarchopolis, Lochac Canberra, Australia
ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au




		
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Hey Gang,
This may have been mentioned before, but are there any websites that
would give comparative prices for used sewing machines?  Or would just
going to EBay still be the best bet?  I did a quick search of the Net
and it wasn't helpful.  I looked at EBay and there were skads to search
through.

A friend of my boss's, whose mother just passed away, wants to sell
Mother's 70's era portable Singer.  It is still in pristine condition,
as it was hardly ever used.  It will probably be sold locally through
the newspaper or at a garage sale.  Daughter doesn't sew at all and so
doesn't know what kind of price to put on it.  

I don't know any other details about it yet.  I asked my boss to get
the model number and year and a list of what attachments comes with it. 


Thanks up front for any directions you can point me in,
Kathy Hoover
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julian wilson wrote:

> I lived in Essex, England, and went to a private Prep School as a
Dayboy- and the School Scarves of that school were knitted during and
just after the 2nd World War, in 1948, I gained my Entrance to one of
the local High Schools, - and their school scarves were woven - and
since the School had 4 Houses, woven in the colours of each House.
> So that little ancedote takes your historical perspective back over
> 50  years, in re: Essex, England at the least.

Is there currently any percieved value difference between the woven and 
the knit?  In other words, would someone say "I now have some more money 
to spend, so I'll upgrade to the other type of scarf?"

> Cynthia posted - "I have an Unseen University scarf ... You have an
> Unseen University scarf? Where on earth did you find that!

A friend, but some websearching produced this page which sells them (and 
a picture, for the rest of you if you're curious.) 
http://www.cmotdibbler.com/cmot_UU.html


-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du PrĂŠ Argent
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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2004 10:55:17 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Comparing prices for used sewing machines
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>This may have been mentioned before, but are there any websites that
>would give comparative prices for used sewing machines?

Local newspaper classified adds would probably be more useful for your 
local market.  The Luddite says don't forget hardcopy advertising.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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I have a scarf from Trinity College, Oxford, where I studied one summer
(with dons from other colleges, not Trinity, but that's another story). It's
made of woven wool. I bought it at the big university supply store there,
where you could find all sorts of gorgeous gowns, embroidered emblems, etc.
As far as I remember, all the scarves were woven wool.

Gail Finke

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From: Beatrice Sidney <beatricesidney@yahoo.com>
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Margo:
 
In many states (Missouri, where I live, Arkansas, and Louisiana off the top of my head) it is illegal to list a room as a bedroom unless it has a door that closes, a window, and a closet. My roomate and I, interestingly, have a two-bedroom apartment "with study" that fills all the requirements for a bedroom. It's listed as a study because our landlord thought it too small for a third bedroom.
 
Beatrice

you wrote:
>When I was househunting a few months ago, I looked at several houses that
>were billed as "2 bedrooms plus office" and the difference in all cases
>seemed to be that the "offices" didn't have closets.
>
>Margo


It is said that knowledge comes only to those who seek it; but some knowledge pursues us without respite or mercy.

English doesn't borrow from other languages. English follows other languages down dark alleys, knocks them over and goes through their pockets for loose grammar.
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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2004 19:34:03 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] British university scarves
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I went to a private school which was all the way through from 5-18 
years. The junior school had knitted scarves (with the stripes across) 
and the seniors had woven (stripes along).  The woven scarves were much 
shorter and harder to keep wrapped around!

One of the local school suppliers here does Griffindor and Slytherin 
knitted scarves - it's only a question of getting them knitted in the 
appropriate colours.

Jean


Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue+dated+1111522118.b132d6@thibault.org> wrote
>I was going to ask this question here, but then I thought "I'll try a 
>websearch first."  And I found the answer, which was interesting, so 
>I'm posting the URL here.
>
>I have an Unseen University scarf which is made of woven wool.  And 
>yet, the Harry Potter movies show official school scarves which are 
>knit. Which is the true traditional UK scarf?
>
>The answer is: both.  Prior to the war, they were knit.  During the 
>war, woven fabric with long stripes was substituted, and when knitted 
>was possible again, many stayed with that style.
>
>http://uppers.org/showArticle.asp?article=516
>

-- 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Comparing prices for used sewing machines
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2004 18:33:22 +0000
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Do you need to have only websites?  I do know that at Half Price Books (sometimes called Crown Books) has books on collectible vintage sewing machine stuff.  Maybe Barnes and Noble or Borders might have something as well?
Just a thought....
--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 
Emer's Needle Wares


-------------- Original message -------------- 

> Hey Gang, 
> This may have been mentioned before, but are there any websites that 
> would give comparative prices for used sewing machines? Or would just 
> going to EBay still be the best bet? I did a quick search of the Net 
> and it wasn't helpful. I looked at EBay and there were skads to search 
> through. 
> 
> A friend of my boss's, whose mother just passed away, wants to sell 
> Mother's 70's era portable Singer. It is still in pristine condition, 
> as it was hardly ever used. It will probably be sold locally through 
> the newspaper or at a garage sale. Daughter doesn't sew at all and so 
> doesn't know what kind of price to put on it. 
> 
> I don't know any other details about it yet. I asked my boss to get 
> the model number and year and a list of what attachments comes with it. 
> 
> 
> Thanks up front for any directions you can point me in, 
> Kathy Hoover 
> _______________________________________________ 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Partially OT: Was Closets
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> In many states (Missouri, where I live, Arkansas, and Louisiana off the
top of my head) it is illegal to list a room as a bedroom unless it has a
door that closes, a window, and a closet.

In Seattle, back when I studied building code as an architecture student,
for a room to be called a bedroom the windows had to be a certain size and,
I think, go outside for fire code reasons.  In other words, if you couldn't
get out in a hurry, it was against the code to be a bedroom.  As a student I
lived in at least one room that broke code. I don't remember any requirement
for closets.

Susan in Seattle

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Subject: [h-cost] 15thC shoe sellers? 
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I have a small problem personally with answering questions like this, so 
please bear with me.  Of the people currently referred to in this thread, 
were I to spend money buying shoes from someone else, I'd use Historic 
Enterprises.  I am reluctant to comment further since I don't want to appear 
critical of anyone who's trying to make shoes for a living on the off chance 
that it might in fact matter to someone :)  Also, I am not familiar with the 
medieval shoes done by either members.lycos.co.uk/KnightOE or Plantagenet 
(note, I'd likely go to Plantagenet for their later period stuff though).

You may have a problem wanting dressy and inexpensive.  You best bet is to 
talk to one of these (or any others) shoemakers and see if they'll do 
something more special for you -- but they are likely to charge more for 
that.


I'm sorry I can't be more help than that.

Marc

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Are there any extant shoes (dressy or not) from this period, or pictures?
Do you have an idea of what you want them to look like?  I haven't spent
much time researching shoes as I am one of those people that hide my
comfortable Reeboks under my skirts :P

Becky

----- Original Message -----
From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, September 24, 2004 9:57 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 15thC shoe sellers?


> Honestly, though, I'm looking for something a little bit dressier, though
I
> do like Historic Entrprises' work, and look forward to having them as my
> biggest competition in the non-shoe arena in the future. =} Well,
actually,
> I do plan to buy a pair of their pattens some day, but for the dressy,
> fashionable late 15th/very early 16th C stuff, those turnshoes just don't
> seem quite right.
>
> Are there just no other places? I've seen some lovely and as far as I can
> tell well made stuff for earlier centuries, but ~1420-1520 seems to get
> skipped over. (I _really_ don't want to have to make my shoes!) Is my only
> option to hire someone for custom work?
>
> -E House
> Liberty in Our Lifetime - www.freestateproject.org
> Coming Soon - http://www.seamcheckers.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Partially OT: Was Closets
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2004 15:53:59 -0400
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> In many states (Missouri, where I live, Arkansas, and Louisiana off the 
> top of my head) it is illegal to list a room as a bedroom unless it has a 
> door that closes, a window, and a closet. My roomate and I, interestingly, 
> have a two-bedroom apartment "with study" that fills all the requirements 
> for a bedroom. It's listed as a study because our landlord thought it too 
> small for a third bedroom.  > Beatrice
>
> you wrote:
>>When I was househunting a few months ago, I looked at several houses that
>>were billed as "2 bedrooms plus office" and the difference in all cases
>>seemed to be that the "offices" didn't have closets.  >>Margo

Some of us who are landlords have found that listing a 3 bedroom as a 2 
bedroom eliminates a lot of the type who crowd many, many people into a 
space.  I only listed it as a 3 bedroom once.  I kept getting people who had 
4 or 5 kids.  I rented it to someone who had 2 kids.  Within 2 months they 
had another couple of relatives up there, with their kid.  etc, etc.  And it 
took me months to repair it after they moved out. without giving me more 
than a couple of weeks notice.
    This holds true of my neighbors, too.   Most of them won't advertise it 
as such, or have converted into smaller, down to tiny apartments, to avoid 
these "types."
  The opposite just hit some long-term friends, who have lived inthe same 
place for 10 years but their "friend" sold it and gave them 1 month to get 
out.   Since they have a place filled with books (62 boxes) as well as stuff 
(Costume content: her husband kept trying to give me her material, and I 
kept laughing at the 5 boxes he considered too much fabric!).  They had an 
awful time, and finally had to settle for an apartment about half the size 
of what they had had.
Rowena 


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Sep 24 16:00:21 2004
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] my dress on museum
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Hi,
Finally finally my dress got its home at the old manorhouse. They had made
such a fine platform in front of the portrait.
I am exhorsted, ben travelling forth and back in train for 8 hours.
Anyway here are pictures as promised:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/estrup3.htm

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2004 15:54:34 -0400
From: "Kathy Hoover" <khoover@wvu.edu>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Comparing prices for used sewing machines
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Oh, gee, Gia,
make me feel old!  The 70's are vintage?!  ;)

Really, do you think a machine this "not-so-old" would be covered in
one of those books?  I'll start looking if you do.  The reason I asked
for websites was because I was assuming that speed would be a factor in
getting a value established.  

Kathy

>>> gia_Gavino@comcast.net 9/24/2004 2:33:22 PM >>>
Do you need to have only websites?  I do know that at Half Price Books
(sometimes called Crown Books) has books on collectible vintage sewing
machine stuff.  Maybe Barnes and Noble or Borders might have something
as well?

-------------- Original message -------------- 
> Hey Gang, 
> This may have been mentioned before, but are there any websites that

> would give comparative prices for used sewing machines? Or would just

> going to EBay still be the best bet? 
> 
> A friend of my boss's, whose mother just passed away, wants to sell 
> Mother's 70's-era portable Singer.  
> Thanks up front for any directions you can point me in, 
> Kathy Hoover 


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From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 15thC shoe sellers? 
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2004 15:03:26 -0500
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I'm really not that hung up on the inexpensive part--if it's too much but
still RIGHT, then I'll just save up for it. Accuracy is what I'm looking
for, here. I'm frustrated by how many convincingly authentic replicas there
are of earlier extant shoes, while there are almost none for the late
15thC/early 16thC!  (The Mary Rose shoes are male, and about 20 years too
late, but they're the closest I've seen so far.)

Since I have no interest in making shoes, I'd like to--for once--rely on the
expertise of a knowledgeable and skilled artisan, rather than having to do
all the research myself.  I guess that's what I'm really looking for, from
whoever isn't reluctant to give it: recommendations of someone whose work I
can trust, whether the shoes would have to be custom made or not.

-E House
Liberty in Our Lifetime - www.freestateproject.org
Coming Soon - http://www.seamcheckers.com

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Yup, and it's illegal to 'discriminate' against people with children. 
That's why I got out of residential real estate. I saw too many apartments 
that weren't appropriate for large families trashed by overcrowding. Then 
they sue ya because your repairs are not keeping up with their damage. It 
only takes one or two such tenants to make a landlady search for legal ways 
to keep out families. Or bail out of owning apartments. Even the *bloody* 
illegal "immigrants" have the right to sue you, even after they have moved 
15 illegals into a 2-bedroom apartment.

Katie


>Some of us who are landlords have found that listing a 3 bedroom as a 2 
>bedroom eliminates a lot of the type who crowd many, many people into a 
>space.  I only listed it as a 3 bedroom once.  I kept getting people who 
>had 4 or 5 kids.  I rented it to someone who had 2 kids.  Within 2 months 
>they had another couple of relatives up there, with their kid.  etc, 
>etc.  And it took me months to repair it after they moved out. without 
>giving me more than a couple of weeks notice.


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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2004 13:13:50 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] my dress on museum
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At 09:59 PM 9/24/2004 +0200, you wrote:
>Hi,
>Finally finally my dress got its home at the old manorhouse. They had made
>such a fine platform in front of the portrait.
>I am exhorsted, ben travelling forth and back in train for 8 hours.
>Anyway here are pictures as promised:
>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/estrup3.htm
>
>Bjarne

Very beautiful, Bjarne!  I still want to see that dress on someone dancing, 
though <g>.

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] my dress on museum
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Hi,
I think the museum wants to have it there all the time. I made it for the
museum only.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Helen Pinto" <hpinto@mindspring.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, September 24, 2004 10:11 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] my dress on museum


> Just gorgeous, as usual; it looks great in front of the portrait.
> I'm guessing that this is a short-term exhibit; what happens to the dress
> when it's over?
> Thanks for sharing the pictures,
>                       -Helen/Aidan
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
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Subject: [h-cost] British university scarves + TYVM for URL
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Dear Cynthia,
thank you for the URL  to C.M.O.T. Dibbler's website- I did a Discworld websearch after e-mailing you the first time - but that particular link didn't come up.
 
As to the other question, I couldn't say, but am glad to have opened a very tiny, very local window into the Past for you. 
BTW, in England, at the least, there is usually only one Outfitter per Town authorised to sell the School Uniform of a particular School. It was so in Southend-on-Sea, Essex, when I was young; and it was certainly so over here in Jersey while our two sons were of "school age". 
I think that may have had something to do with notions of commercial fairness, spreading the business around the local tradespeople.
What the situation may be now as far as UK Uniiversities are concerned, I know not; - but perhaps other UK-educated Graduates on this List may be able to advise us with respect the their own particular experiences.
Cordially,
Julian, in "olde" Jersey

		
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Just gorgeous, as usual; it looks great in front of the portrait.
I'm guessing that this is a short-term exhibit; what happens to the dress
when it's over?
Thanks for sharing the pictures,
                      -Helen/Aidan


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This thread about how-many-in-an-apartment is going to get very 
political and flameish, very fast.  Shall we stop before it gets there 
and talk about clothing?  Pick your favorite topic and start chatting.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du PrĂŠ Argent
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: my dress on museum
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Hi,
Finally finally my dress got its home at the old manorhouse. They had
made
such a fine platform in front of the portrait.
I am exhorsted, ben travelling forth and back in train for 8 hours.
Anyway here are pictures as promised:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/estrup3.htm 

Bjarne
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

How beautiful Bjarne!  Thank you for sharing the pictures,

Catherine

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] my dress on museum
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Bjarne,
It looks like its next to the painting that inspired it. Is that  right?
 
Beautiful in any case.
 
Kathleen Norvell
 
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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Comparing prices for used sewing machines
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2004 17:00:13 -0400
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Gia, I forget, does this vintage Singer happen to be in that "dark hole"when
Singers of what ever model ended up in such bad repute? I think this was a
time period when industrial plastics/nylon etc was replacing good old steel.
This factor would most likely affect selling price.
kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kathy Hoover" <khoover@wvu.edu>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, September 24, 2004 3:54 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Comparing prices for used sewing machines


> Oh, gee, Gia,
> make me feel old!  The 70's are vintage?!  ;)
>
> Really, do you think a machine this "not-so-old" would be covered in
> one of those books?  I'll start looking if you do.  The reason I asked
> for websites was because I was assuming that speed would be a factor in
> getting a value established.
>
> Kathy
>
> >>> gia_Gavino@comcast.net 9/24/2004 2:33:22 PM >>>
> Do you need to have only websites?  I do know that at Half Price Books
> (sometimes called Crown Books) has books on collectible vintage sewing
> machine stuff.  Maybe Barnes and Noble or Borders might have something
> as well?
>
> -------------- Original message -------------- 
> > Hey Gang,
> > This may have been mentioned before, but are there any websites that
>
> > would give comparative prices for used sewing machines? Or would just
>
> > going to EBay still be the best bet?
> >
> > A friend of my boss's, whose mother just passed away, wants to sell
> > Mother's 70's-era portable Singer.
> > Thanks up front for any directions you can point me in,
> > Kathy Hoover
>
>
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Subject: [h-cost] Historical/inspired Hallow'een costumes
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Any of you doing historical or historical-inspired halloween costumes 
for yourselves, family, or friends?

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du PrĂŠ Argent
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: 15thC shoe sellers?
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>From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
>I'm really not that hung up on the inexpensive part--if it's too much but
>still RIGHT, then I'll just save up for it. Accuracy is what I'm looking
>for, here. I'm frustrated by how many convincingly authentic replicas there
>are of earlier extant shoes, while there are almost none for the late
>15thC/early 16thC!  (The Mary Rose shoes are male, and about 20 years too
>late, but they're the closest I've seen so far.)

Part of the problem is that smack in the middle of the period you suggested 
"~1420-1520 " there is a massive change in shoemaking technology - 
particularly with regards to upper class footwear.  The Mary Rose shoes 
might in fact be completely wrong for other reasons, such as construction.

That being said, there isn't a huge difference between mens and women's 
shoes, as far as we can tell (the illustrations are a little tricky since 
there are all those skirts in the way).  The only major exception to this is 
that long poulaines on women are rarely seen in the illustrations, except in 
specific instances.  We know those because we can see the little points 
poking out from under the skirts.

I'll check my notes though, and see if I can't find a style or two that's a 
bit dressier than the others :)

>Since I have no interest in making shoes, I'd like to--for once--rely on 
>the
>expertise of a knowledgeable and skilled artisan, rather than having to do
>all the research myself.  I guess that's what I'm really looking for, from
>whoever isn't reluctant to give it: recommendations of someone whose work I
>can trust, whether the shoes would have to be custom made or not.

I understand completely, and honestly if I could have avoided learning how 
to do it initially, I probably would have myself.

Marc

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From: "Kathy Hoover" <khoover@wvu.edu>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Comparing prices for used sewing machines
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Kathleen, 
That was from me, not Gia.  And I don't know yet.  I was just told it
was 70's-ish.  The owner is supposed to be getting me that info
shortly.

Kathy

>>> rmitchell@washjeff.edu 9/24/2004 5:00:13 PM >>>
Gia, I forget, does this vintage Singer happen to be in that "dark
hole"when
Singers of what ever model ended up in such bad repute? I think this
was a
time period when industrial plastics/nylon etc was replacing good old
steel.
This factor would most likely affect selling price.
kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kathy Hoover" <khoover@wvu.edu>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, September 24, 2004 3:54 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Comparing prices for used sewing machines


> Oh, gee, Gia,
> make me feel old!  The 70's are vintage?!  ;)
>
> Kathy
>
> >>> gia_Gavino@comcast.net 9/24/2004 2:33:22 PM >>>
> Do you need to have only websites?  I do know that at Half Price
Books
> (sometimes called Crown Books) has books on collectible vintage
sewing
> machine stuff. 

> -------------- Original message -------------- 
> > Hey Gang,
> > This may have been mentioned before, but are there any websites
that
>
> > would give comparative prices for used sewing machines? 
> >
> > A friend of my boss's, whose mother just passed away, wants to
sell
> > Mother's 70's-era portable Singer.
> > Thanks up front for any directions you can point me in,
> > Kathy Hoover

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Subject: [h-cost] Whoop! whoop!
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I'll post no more on the topic. Somebody come up with more topics for this 
chatterbox to chatter about...

Katie

At 04:28 PM 9/24/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>This thread about how-many-in-an-apartment is going to get very political 
>and flameish, very fast.  Shall we stop before it gets there and talk 
>about clothing?  Pick your favorite topic and start chatting.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] my dress on museum
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Bravissimo, Bjarne. No matter how tired you may be, when you wake up you'll
surely be flooded with a feeling of accomplishment. And how lucky the
visitors to the manorhouse will be, to be able to see history come to such
vivid life. Even on a mannequin the gown seems ready to dance a stately
measure. You have done the past a great service, and I hope you will get the
level of recognition you deserve.

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

on 9/24/04 3:59 PM, Bjarne og Leif Drews at drewscph@post12.tele.dk wrote:

> Hi,
> Finally finally my dress got its home at the old manorhouse. They had made
> such a fine platform in front of the portrait.
> I am exhorsted, ben travelling forth and back in train for 8 hours.
> Anyway here are pictures as promised:
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/estrup3.htm
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> 
> 

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From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 15thC shoe sellers?
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I have a pair of Master Dru's turnshoes & they are
lovely, but more expensive than you were indicating in
your original email.

On the other hand, I have 6.5 EEE feet with a high
arch and narrow heel, so I'm used to paying retail.

Ann in CT

--- E House <formfunc@formfunction.org> wrote:

> Honestly, though, I'm looking for something a little
> bit dressier, though I
> do like Historic Entrprises' work, and look forward
> to having them as my
> biggest competition in the non-shoe arena in the
> future. =} Well, actually,
> I do plan to buy a pair of their pattens some day,
> but for the dressy,
> fashionable late 15th/very early 16th C stuff, those
> turnshoes just don't
> seem quite right.
> 
> Are there just no other places? I've seen some
> lovely and as far as I can
> tell well made stuff for earlier centuries, but
> ~1420-1520 seems to get
> skipped over. (I _really_ don't want to have to make
> my shoes!) Is my only
> option to hire someone for custom work?
> 
> -E House
> Liberty in Our Lifetime - www.freestateproject.org
> Coming Soon - http://www.seamcheckers.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 



		
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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At 05:20 PM 9/24/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>Any of you doing historical or historical-inspired halloween costumes for 
>yourselves, family, or friends?
>
>--
>Cynthia Virtue and/or
>Cynthia du PrĂŠ Argent


I am going to make my son a costume based on Edward IV's toddler portrait. 
Simplicity has the basic pattern, which I want to modify. I am making the 
outfit in linen, because he will be wearing this at hot faires next year. I 
will be making a separate chemise. The linen is dark blue, so I will be 
fabric stenciling the sleeves in a period pattern with gold paint. And then 
I will be adding in the hanging over-sleeves that Simplicity left off 
(modified to easily detach).

This is the Simplicity pattern, View C:
http://www.simplicity.com/index.cfm?cat=4&type=21&sec=0&id=80&startrow=1

This is the image of Edward IV as a toddler (Hans Holbein, 1539)
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Edward3.jpg

Our group often does Henry VIII events, so I thought it would be fun to 
have little "Edward" running around faire. However, knowing my little boy, 
it will most often be in chemise only, if that much, as he is a little 
streaker at times. {sigh}

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Owner ~ DreamTime Studios
http://www.dreamtime-studios.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell


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Subject: [h-cost] ebay find
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Hey all,

Found this nifty bit of embroidery on ebay, but it's not my period.   
The auction closes in an hour.  (I have no affiliation with the seller)
   Enjoy!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/ 
eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=3749336234&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT

Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com
*** http://www.alfalfapress.com

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Bush/Cheney - Bringing Bigotry back to the Constitution.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Historical/inspired Hallow'een costumes
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hiya,

I have a Snow White dress I made as a mock up of a 16thC Venetian 
(worked out dynamics of tie-front to see if it would stay closed and my 
first cartridge pleating even though the Venetian didn't have cartridge 
pleating).  I plan to go as Snow Drift, the "not quite as innocent as 
the new fallen snow"....  *evil laughter*

I wanted to do Willy Wonka, but never got around to it.  Maybe next 
year if I can find the right fabrics.

Althea

On Friday, September 24, 2004, at 02:20 PM, Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> Any of you doing historical or historical-inspired halloween costumes 
> for yourselves, family, or friends?
>
> -- 
> Cynthia Virtue and/or
> Cynthia du PrĂŠ Argent
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com
*** http://www.alfalfapress.com

Public Relations Manager
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Bush/Cheney - Bringing Bigotry back to the Constitution.


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Well I'm supposed to be having a 70's themed party and I imgaine if I
don't just go buy vintage I'll make soemthing from the tons of
patterns I have already Why a 70's party? Because of my new place. We
weren't settled enough last year to do a party but this year I am. My
place can be seen here http://snipurl.com/9bir

Bice


> On Friday, September 24, 2004, at 02:20 PM, Cynthia Virtue wrote:
> 
> > Any of you doing historical or historical-inspired halloween costumes
> > for yourselves, family, or friends?
> >
> > --
> > Cynthia Virtue and/or
> > Cynthia du Pré Argent
-- 
"Pardon me, Lady Tudor Glitz, but telling people things aren't period isn't
period." 
Italian Ladies 2005 Calendar
http://www.lulu.com/kristalori

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Greetings all,
I would like to make my children warm hats and boots for the winter 
season.  Does anyone know of a good web site (or paper pattern) for 
felt boots and "Lao" hats?  Thanks!

Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com
*** http://www.alfalfapress.com

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Bush/Cheney - Bringing Bigotry back to the Constitution.

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Okay, so here goes with something....
How many of you have started out with a small idea for a costume or 
article/outfit of period clothing (whatever the period), and ended up 
picking up entirely different hobbies/skills as a result?
I wanted to make 1, just *one*, outfit that was suitable to an 11th 
century Irish/Norse woman living in Dublin.  Then, I decided I wanted 
authentic fibers, which went to authentic weaves, and now, a year later, 
I'm cleaning, combing & spinning wool, playing with period dyes, 
weaving, and knitting.  I've turned into a fiber freak!
The knitting threatens to take over, all on its own! and all I wanted to 
do, reallyreally, was learn just enough to fake a pair of socks/shoe 
liners that would have been nalbinded.
*sigh*
--sue, happy martyr to all things fibery & costumey ;o)

Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> This thread about how-many-in-an-apartment is going to get very 
> political and flameish, very fast.  Shall we stop before it gets there 
> and talk about clothing?  Pick your favorite topic and start chatting.
> 

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Not this year (too much else going on, clothing/costuming-wise).  In 
past years, though, I wore my "red Elizabethan" to work on Halloween. 
Both years, I had more than one person ask me where my flamingo 
was....<evil grin>
If I still had the outfit, I think I'd find myself a lawn ornament, and 
do it again!
--sue

Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> Any of you doing historical or historical-inspired halloween costumes 
> for yourselves, family, or friends?
> 

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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2004 18:08:37 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Historical/inspired Hallow'een costumes
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At 06:59 PM 9/24/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>Not this year (too much else going on, clothing/costuming-wise).  In past 
>years, though, I wore my "red Elizabethan" to work on Halloween. Both 
>years, I had more than one person ask me where my flamingo was....<evil grin>
>If I still had the outfit, I think I'd find myself a lawn ornament, and do 
>it again!
>--sue


That's really amusing. I will have to remember that when my Red 
Elizabethans gets done (hopefully this winter).

Kimiko


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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2004 21:29:30 -0400
Subject: Re: [h-cost] my dress on museum
From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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It's VERY beautiful. How heavy is the silver taffeta? It drapes just like
the one in the painting, and I've been having trouble figuring out whether
modern taffeta is too lightweight.

Anyway, gorgeous work!
Lauren


> From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>

> 
> Hi,
> Finally finally my dress got its home at the old manorhouse. They had made
> such a fine platform in front of the portrait.
> I am exhorsted, ben travelling forth and back in train for 8 hours.
> Anyway here are pictures as promised:
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/estrup3.htm
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> 
> 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Comparing prices for used sewing machines
Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2004 02:02:09 +0000
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Hey, I know what you mean! I graduated HS in the mid 70's.  But, yes, I think you would be surprised!  You might try the local library for books like these...


--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 
Emer's Needle Wares


-------------- Original message -------------- 

> Oh, gee, Gia, 
> make me feel old! The 70's are vintage?! ;) 
> 
> Really, do you think a machine this "not-so-old" would be covered in 
> one of those books? I'll start looking if you do. The reason I asked 
> for websites was because I was assuming that speed would be a factor in 
> getting a value established. 
> 
> Kathy 
> 
> >>> gia_Gavino@comcast.net 9/24/2004 2:33:22 PM >>> 
> Do you need to have only websites? I do know that at Half Price Books 
> (sometimes called Crown Books) has books on collectible vintage sewing 
> machine stuff. Maybe Barnes and Noble or Borders might have something 
> as well? 
> 
> -------------- Original message -------------- 
> > Hey Gang, 
> > This may have been mentioned before, but are there any websites that 
> 
> > would give comparative prices for used sewing machines? Or would just 
> 
> > going to EBay still be the best bet? 
> > 
> > A friend of my boss's, whose mother just passed away, wants to sell 
> > Mother's 70's-era portable Singer. 
> > Thanks up front for any directions you can point me in, 
> > Kathy Hoover 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
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In a message dated 9/24/2004 3:59:59 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:
Finally finally my dress got its home at the old manorhouse. They had made
such a fine platform in front of the portrait
All I can say is, "WOW!"

Ann Wass
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My husband said I should share this with the list. We had a whirlwind trip to 
New England last week (almost literally--Hurricane Ivan followed us most of 
the way). Anyway, we just had time to visit the Wright's Trim Outlet store in 
Sturbridge, Massachusetts. I stocked up on tassels in various sizes and colors 
to trim reticules, got 10 packs of various sizes and colors of bias tape for 
$1.00, and bought some extra wide ruffled eyelet trim for an eventual square 
dance dress.

Ann Wass
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Bjarne's new dress 
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Bjarne:

Thanks so much for posting the pictures of your dress at the museum! I love
the story behind it -- how this was the dress that made you want to do
historic costumes. How wonderful for you to be able to make that very dress,
and share it with the whole world! Or at least with those who visit the
museum. It looks so beautiful with the painting. I wish I could wear it
myself...

Gail Finke

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Historical/inspired Hallow'een costumes
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Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> Any of you doing historical or historical-inspired halloween costumes 
> for yourselves, family, or friends?
> 

Not this year. I just got back from Joann's with some fancy black 
fabrics and a few metallic halloween remnants, and I think I'll be doing 
something Japanese Gothic from the pattern book my husband got me for my 
birthday. Can't read a word of it, but the directions are very well 
illustrated.



Dawn


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Historical/inspired Hallow'een costumes
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Cool idea.  I was surprised to see the sleeves look just like some fabric I
found years ago when a fabric store went out of business.  Now I KNOW it is
period.  Anne



This is the image of Edward IV as a toddler (Hans Holbein, 1539)
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Edward3.jpg

Our group often does Henry VIII events, so I thought it would be fun to 
have little "Edward" running around faire. However, knowing my little boy, 
it will most often be in chemise only, if that much, as he is a little 
streaker at times. {sigh}

Kimiko


Kimiko Small
Owner ~ DreamTime Studios
http://www.dreamtime-studios.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell


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Subject: [h-cost] 1920's-1940's seamstress needed
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I don't have the details, but a friend asked me if there was anyone in 
the North Dallas / McKinney, Texas area doing 1920's-1940's.  He and his 
wife need costumes for a function.  He's hoping to do an Army uniform of 
the period.  I'll pass along any information to him.

TIA,
--Charlene

-- 
Courtesy is owed.  Respect is earned.  Love is given.
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] cartridge pleating 16th c. Venetian (was
	Historical/inspired Hallow'een costumes)
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Althea Turner" <althea@alfalfapress.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 25, 2004 10:13 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Historical/inspired Hallow'een costumes


> hiya,
>
> I have a Snow White dress I made as a mock up of a 16thC Venetian
> (worked out dynamics of tie-front to see if it would stay closed and my
> first cartridge pleating even though the Venetian didn't have cartridge
> pleating).  <snip> Althea
<snip>

OK so I'm not exactly an expert on Venetian (I've done the high waisted
c.1500 look but haven't really looked much beyond that) but looking at the
few portraits I've saved on my hard drive I've seen quite a bit of cartridge
pleating. Of course the fashion for pleating styles changed from year to
year so perhaps you meant that cartridge pleating was not in fashion for the
style you wanted, what portrait/year/decade were you looking at?
Elizabeth
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
Elizabeth Beaumont              Elizabeth Walpole
             in                         OR                 in
Politarchopolis, Lochac        Canberra, Australia
             ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au

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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Home Ec" <homeec@telenet.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, September 24, 2004 3:53 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Partially OT: Was Closets


>> Some of us who are landlords have found that listing a 3 bedroom as a 2
> bedroom eliminates a lot of the type who crowd many, many people into a
> space.  I only listed it as a 3 bedroom once.  I kept getting people who
had
> 4 or 5 kids.  I rented it to someone who had 2 kids.  Within 2 months they
> had another couple of relatives up there, with their kid.  etc, etc.  And
it
> took me months to repair it after they moved out. without giving me more
> than a couple of weeks notice.


  My DH and I have four children at home--all boys. A 3 bedroom house
actually works out quite well for us--two boys in each bedroom.  I have
lived in my current home for nearly four years, and the only damage my boys
have done is some coloring on the walls.
I'm sorry you had a bad experience with a family, but please don't paint us
all with the same brush.

Dianne


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] taffeta
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It's VERY beautiful. How heavy is the silver taffeta? It drapes just like
the one in the painting, and I've been having trouble figuring out whether
modern taffeta is too lightweight.

Anyway, gorgeous work!
Lauren

Hi Lauren,
Thanks for your words. I think that taffeta comes in various weights. At
least i have seen some lightweight taffetas wich better fits for the later
18th century dresses.
The fabric i used was a heavy weight one, and it draped very well. Usually i
say that dresses after 1775 should have the light weight taffetas, and vise
versa for the earlyer ones.
I think that the real fabric on the portrait is a duchesse satin with
brocaded flowers. If i would have ben lucky to find such a fabric, i would
never be able to pay for it, because it would cost a fortune. As a matter of
fact i dont think you can get it today.
Taffeta is a very suitable fabric for dresses i think, and they can be
decorated in so many ways that will fit each period well.

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2004 08:19:13 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] cartridge pleating 16th c. Venetian (was
	Historical/inspired Hallow'een costumes)
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Hiya,
It is a Bordone, but I can't seem to find it right now.  I want to say 
1540, but I haven't had a full cup of coffee yet and could be wrong.  
It's a red velvet.  :D  There is pleating in the skirt, but it is very 
full and could easily be gathering.  The Snow White costume has small 
tight cartridge pleats as I wanted to really see what the technique 
would do.

Thanks!
Althea


On Friday, September 24, 2004, at 08:07 PM, Elizabeth Walpole wrote:
>
>> hiya,
>>
>> I have a Snow White dress I made as a mock up of a 16thC Venetian
>> (worked out dynamics of tie-front to see if it would stay closed and 
>> my
>> first cartridge pleating even though the Venetian didn't have 
>> cartridge
>> pleating).  <snip> Althea
> <snip>
>
> <snip>

> Of course the fashion for pleating styles changed from year to
> year so perhaps you meant that cartridge pleating was not in fashion 
> for the
> style you wanted, what portrait/year/decade were you looking at?
> Elizabeth
Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com
*** http://www.alfalfapress.com

Public Relations Manager
Sauron/Voldemort 2004

Bush/Cheney - Bringing Bigotry back to the Constitution.

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Subject: Re: Re:New topic was [h-cost] Whoop! whoop!
Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2004 17:14:02 +0200
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Hi,
This was the case for me when i discovered bobbin lace making. For many
years i ignored costume  making, and was totally engaged in learning more
and making lace.
Somehow i have ben fed up two much of bobbin lace making because i rarely
makes them these days, except for the quick metal laces i make for the
costumes.
I also think it has something to do with that you get more impatiente the
older you get. My life is two short for fine point ground
laces..............
Perhaps also because i have taken up embroidery and enjoys this much better

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 25, 2004 2:54 AM
Subject: Re:New topic was [h-cost] Whoop! whoop!


> Okay, so here goes with something....
> How many of you have started out with a small idea for a costume or
> article/outfit of period clothing (whatever the period), and ended up
> picking up entirely different hobbies/skills as a result?
> I wanted to make 1, just *one*, outfit that was suitable to an 11th
> century Irish/Norse woman living in Dublin.  Then, I decided I wanted
> authentic fibers, which went to authentic weaves, and now, a year later,
> I'm cleaning, combing & spinning wool, playing with period dyes,
> weaving, and knitting.  I've turned into a fiber freak!
> The knitting threatens to take over, all on its own! and all I wanted to
> do, reallyreally, was learn just enough to fake a pair of socks/shoe
> liners that would have been nalbinded.
> *sigh*
> --sue, happy martyr to all things fibery & costumey ;o)
>
> Cynthia Virtue wrote:
>
> > This thread about how-many-in-an-apartment is going to get very
> > political and flameish, very fast.  Shall we stop before it gets there
> > and talk about clothing?  Pick your favorite topic and start chatting.
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: fiber freaks--or how to fill a home!
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At 9:14 AM -0600 9/25/04, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>century Irish/Norse woman living in Dublin.  Then, I decided I wanted
>authentic fibers, which went to authentic weaves, and now, a year later,
>I'm cleaning, combing & spinning wool, playing with period dyes,
>weaving, and knitting.  I've turned into a fiber freak!

HeHeHeHe....
And soon you will get sucked in and have multiple looms/wheels and 
then there are the accessories--Mangle anyone? Then you start 
realizing that 2 large looms can both fit in your room--and be used!

welcome to da insanity...and realize that each era has it's own technology....

Ta
Carol, after scrubbing the basement and getting the furnace tuned up 
and then fixing the sump lines (major ICK!) is finally able to get 
back to the loom room....
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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On Friday 24 September 2004 8:21 pm, Althea Turner wrote:
> Greetings all,
> I would like to make my children warm hats and boots for the winter
> season.  Does anyone know of a good web site (or paper pattern) for
> felt boots and "Lao" hats?  Thanks!

This page talks about making felt boots. 

http://www.vertetsable.com/demos_feltboots.htm

As for hats, why not get some from the Lao site?  Expense? Kids still too 
small for their sizes?

http://www.laohats.com/

If the Lao hats are too big, the woman with the felt boots page also has a 
page about making Lao-style hats:

http://www.vertetsable.com/demos_asianhats.htm

Good luck!


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
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Subject: [h-cost] My next frustration: belts & metalwork
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So, the other thing I've been trying in great frustration to find is a
certain type of belt:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/Deposition1443Girdle_big.jpg
I haven't even been able to find any clasp-like components that really
satisfied me, so that I could make it myself; they've all been either waaay
too small scale, or had no way I could attach them to the belt itself. I've
found several people who could likely custom-make a very nice version of
these belts, but in this case, I _do_ want to learn to make it myself, since
there's just so very many metal details like this that I've been antsy to
find/make.

I used to do a lot of wire & bead type jewelry making, and my interest in
that has been reviving lately, but for my era of interest I'd really need to
be able to cast (or whatever) larger scale metal elements. However, I've
decided that for this, I'm fine with using modern techniques, as long as the
end result looks right from a distance of a few inches.

On that note, I came across an interesting sort of material--precious metal
clay, and art clay (silver clay stuff). The stuff is tiny metal particles,
in a binder that makes it workable as though it were clay; when you fire it,
the binder is burnt off, leaving only the metal. The advantages are that
it's much simpler to work with, and that you need to invest less in
equipment, and also that it's something (I hope) I could do in an apartment.
The drawbacks are that the metal clay itself is a good deal more expensive
than just buying normal metal, and that the one big equipment cost is a
small kiln, which runs ~$600.

If I ever want to produce this stuff in multiples, I'll certainly need to
learn to cast or whatever, but from what I understand the end result of the
clay can be used to make a nice easy mold, so assuming this stuff is worth
learning, it would still help me to that end.

Has anyone ever tried this stuff? Is it worth it, or would I be better off
learning how to cast and all of that mess? Could I really do it in my
apartment? Are there any horrible fumes I'd be exposed to? Is there, by any
chance, some type of business that might let me buy the occasional scrap of
space in their kiln, so that I could try it a few times before buying a
kiln?

-E House
Liberty in Our Lifetime - www.freestateproject.org
Coming Soon - http://www.seamcheckers.com

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Sep 25 13:46:56 2004
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From: Claudine <claudine_on_the_net@yahoo.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: PMC3 [was: Re: [h-cost] My next frustration: belts & metalwork]
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Hi E,

Try PMC3; more expensive, but sets at lower temperatures.

Also, can you tell us the full title and painter of the artwork you're 
looking at, and, perhaps, a link to where the whole thing can be seen?



Claudine

E House wrote:

> So, the other thing I've been trying in great frustration to find is a
> certain type of belt:
> http://www.formfunction.org/temp/Deposition1443Girdle_big.jpg
[snipped]
> On that note, I came across an interesting sort of material--precious metal
> clay, and art clay (silver clay stuff). The stuff is tiny metal particles,
[snipped]

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Sep 25 14:10:43 2004
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From: "Kate Pinner" <pinner@mccc.edu>
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Subject: [h-cost] Afghan cloak?
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What is this that the president of Afghanistan is wearing?

 

http://portal.unesco.org/fr/ev.php-URL_ID=1456
<http://portal.unesco.org/fr/ev.php-URL_ID=1456&URL_DO=DO_TOPIC&URL_SECT
ION=201.html> &URL_DO=DO_TOPIC&URL_SECTION=201.html

http://www.afgha.com/?af=article
<http://www.afgha.com/?af=article&sid=13207> &sid=13207

 

http://portal.unesco.org/fr/ev.php-URL_ID=1433
<http://portal.unesco.org/fr/ev.php-URL_ID=1433&URL_DO=DO_TOPIC&URL_SECT
ION=201.html> &URL_DO=DO_TOPIC&URL_SECTION=201.html

http://www.islamfortoday.com/afghanistan.htm

 

Kate Pinner

Technical Co-ordinator & Costume Designer

Kelsey Theatre

Mercer County College

 

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>Has anyone ever tried this stuff? Is it worth it, or would I be better off
learning how to cast and all of that mess? Could I really do it in my
apartment? Are there any horrible fumes I'd be exposed to? Is there, by any
chance, some type of business that might let me buy the occasional scrap of
space in their kiln, so that I could try it a few times before buying a
kiln?


I think it would be worth a try.  I have researched it but haven't gotten
enough money together to get into a project yet.  Go to your local library
and look up books on precious metal clay and jewelry making.  One is:
Creative metal clay jewelry: techniques, projects, inspiration, by CeCe
Wire.  There is also a video called Intermediate Techniques, by Celie Fago.

You need to start out with some cheaper metal; I know there are different
grades.  Fire Mountain Gems just started carrying the stuff and there are
also some websites that cater to this market.  There is about a 30%
shrinkage.  Check around your local area to see if there are any ceramics
shops that have kilns you could rent or borrow.  Make sure the temperature
will work -- I can't remember but I know this clay takes a certain temp.

Let us know what you decide to do.  I'd be curious how the project goes if
you decide to try it.

Becky


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Yeah, sorry; 'precious metal clay' = PMC, PMC+, and PMC3.

Info on the picture can be found here:
http://www.wga.hu/html/w/weyden/rogier/01deposi/1deposit.html

-E House
Liberty in Our Lifetime - www.freestateproject.org
Coming Soon - http://www.seamcheckers.com

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] needs patterns
Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2004 16:27:29 -0400
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On Saturday 25 September 2004 12:18 pm, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:

Lao Hats actually has a few children's size hats on sale in their clearance 
section--one of them is as cheap as $15 US:

http://www.laohats.com/shop/index.php?shop=1&cat=7&cart=1945
-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] My next frustration: belts & metalwork
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Fire Mountain's kit includes a little torch, rather than a kiln -- much 
smaller, cheaper.

What you would do ultimately is use pewter in a soapstone mold.  Neither 
of these things are expensive; I know some of the student types in my 
old group were experimenting with them and producing fairly good things 
after a bit of practice.

Were it me, I'd probably check Billie & Charley's website for a clasp, 
and work on making the smaller leather mounts myself.  You can work up 
to your own clasp later.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du PrĂŠ Argent

Register to vote!  Don't let that other guy win!
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From: Kristalori History <jacquelinejbump@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Swimsuit question
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Ok I recall one of the pattern makers (no not the big 4) like Truly
Victorian or someone making a vintage swimsuit pattern. I know
Folkwear has one but the one I recall had about 20 pieces to it and
could make swimsuits from the 1860's all the way up to a two piece
number from the 30's. Now do any of you link collectors have links to
pattern companies that make vintage swimsuit patterns? I need patterns
only please.

Bice
-- 
"Pardon me, Lady Tudor Glitz, but telling people things aren't period isn't
period." 
Italian Ladies 2005 Calendar
http://www.lulu.com/kristalori
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Subject: [h-cost] Duchesse Satin: was-taffeta
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Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

>........ i would
>never be able to pay for it, because it would cost a fortune. As a matter of
>fact i dont think you can get it today.........
>  
>

You can get it (Thai Silks below) .  Tis a bit pricey though!

*Code* 	   	*Name* 	   	*Price*
009B 
<http://www.thaisilks.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TS&Product_Code=009B> 
	   	Double Sided Satin, 40mm, 45" 
<http://www.thaisilks.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TS&Product_Code=009B> 
	   	Nat   
<http://www.thaisilks.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TS&Product_Code=009B> 
	$23.00   
<http://www.thaisilks.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TS&Product_Code=009B> 
	Dye   
<http://www.thaisilks.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TS&Product_Code=009B> 
	$25.10 
<http://www.thaisilks.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TS&Product_Code=009B> 

09DW 
<http://www.thaisilks.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TS&Product_Code=09DW> 
	   	Doupioni Satin, 22mm, 54" 
<http://www.thaisilks.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TS&Product_Code=09DW> 
	   	  	Dye   
<http://www.thaisilks.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TS&Product_Code=09DW> 
	$18.30 
<http://www.thaisilks.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TS&Product_Code=09DW> 

11CW 
<http://www.thaisilks.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TS&Product_Code=11CW> 
	   	Duchesse Satin, 54" 
<http://www.thaisilks.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TS&Product_Code=11CW> 
	   	  	Dye   
<http://www.thaisilks.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TS&Product_Code=11CW> 
	$29.00 
<http://www.thaisilks.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TS&Product_Code=11CW> 

09BW 
<http://www.thaisilks.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TS&Product_Code=09BW> 
	   	Double Sided Satin, 40mm, 54" 
<http://www.thaisilks.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TS&Product_Code=09BW> 
	   	Nat   
<http://www.thaisilks.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TS&Product_Code=09BW> 
	$25.00   
<http://www.thaisilks.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TS&Product_Code=09BW> 
	Dye   
<http://www.thaisilks.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TS&Product_Code=09BW> 
	$30.55 
<http://www.thaisilks.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TS&Product_Code=09BW> 

009R 
<http://www.thaisilks.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TS&Product_Code=009R> 
	   	Silk/Linen Satin, 45" 
<http://www.thaisilks.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TS&Product_Code=009R> 
	   	Nat   
<http://www.thaisilks.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TS&Product_Code=009R> 
	$12.90   
<http://www.thaisilks.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TS&Product_Code=009R> 
	 
 
Nat is the price of Natural Fabric
Dye is the price of Dyed Fabric


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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Shopping!
Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2004 20:51:04 -0400
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Ann, wouldn't you say that is hard to get out of Wrights under $100.? I
usually manage to get there once a year...with a shopping list...and so many
things jump into me cart...that I NEED!  The bargain bins are so hard to
ignore, where you can get a whole bolt of, say, cupped sequins at $3.oo for
50 yards, on the automatic mark down rack.  I have tried to make it for the
'free' stuff but my timing availability is usually off.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AnnBWass@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, September 24, 2004 10:09 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Shopping!


> My husband said I should share this with the list. We had a whirlwind trip
to
> New England last week (almost literally--Hurricane Ivan followed us most
of
> the way). Anyway, we just had time to visit the Wright's Trim Outlet store
in
> Sturbridge, Massachusetts. I stocked up on tassels in various sizes and
colors
> to trim reticules, got 10 packs of various sizes and colors of bias tape
for
> $1.00, and bought some extra wide ruffled eyelet trim for an eventual
square
> dance dress.
>
> Ann Wass
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] needs patterns
Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2004 21:09:26 -0400
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I don't know if this stuff strikes the availability question, but it is
certainly "costume"!
www.oddisgood.home.att.net

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Catherine Olanich Raymond" <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 25, 2004 4:27 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] needs patterns


> On Saturday 25 September 2004 12:18 pm, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
>
> Lao Hats actually has a few children's size hats on sale in their
clearance
> section--one of them is as cheap as $15 US:
>
> http://www.laohats.com/shop/index.php?shop=1&cat=7&cart=1945
> -- 
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>
> "Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue
> that counts."--Winston Churchill
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Duchesse Satin: Sorry about that!
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Egads!  Forgive me for that awful mess!

Perhaps it is best just to go there yourself and check out the prices!!!

http://www.thaisilks.com/



>
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Afghan cloak?
Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2004 20:24:14 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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The only name I can find for these coats comes from a book I have on  
Turkestan which has been both north of Afghanistan and part of  
Afghanistan in the past.  There they are called chapans.

Sylrog

On Sep 25, 2004, at 12:09 PM, Kate Pinner wrote:

> What is this that the president of Afghanistan is wearing?
>
>
>
> http://portal.unesco.org/fr/ev.php-URL_ID=1456
> <http://portal.unesco.org/fr/ev.php- 
> URL_ID=1456&URL_DO=DO_TOPIC&URL_SECT
> ION=201.html> &URL_DO=DO_TOPIC&URL_SECTION=201.html
>
> http://www.afgha.com/?af=article
> <http://www.afgha.com/?af=article&sid=13207> &sid=13207
>
>
>
> http://portal.unesco.org/fr/ev.php-URL_ID=1433
> <http://portal.unesco.org/fr/ev.php- 
> URL_ID=1433&URL_DO=DO_TOPIC&URL_SECT
> ION=201.html> &URL_DO=DO_TOPIC&URL_SECTION=201.html
>
> http://www.islamfortoday.com/afghanistan.htm
>
>
>
> Kate Pinner
>
> Technical Co-ordinator & Costume Designer
>
> Kelsey Theatre
>
> Mercer County College
>
>
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] needs patterns
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hello,
I don't want t buy them because I want to make them myself.  :D
Thanks for the web site!

Althea


On Saturday, September 25, 2004, at 09:18 AM, Catherine Olanich Raymond 
wrote:

> On Friday 24 September 2004 8:21 pm, Althea Turner wrote:
>> Greetings all,
>> I would like to make my children warm hats and boots for the winter
>> season.  Does anyone know of a good web site (or paper pattern) for
>> felt boots and "Lao" hats?  Thanks!
>
> <snip>
> As for hats, why not get some from the Lao site?  Expense? Kids still 
> too
> small for their sizes?

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Hi,
I think you misunderstood what i said. I said that the original dress is
made of a duchesse satin with brocaded flowers.
I know you still gets duchesse satin, i am making something of it right now,
but you cant get it with wowen motifs.............

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Wicked Frau" <wickedfrau@earthlink.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2004 3:19 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Duchesse Satin: Sorry about that!


> Egads!  Forgive me for that awful mess!
>
> Perhaps it is best just to go there yourself and check out the prices!!!
>
> http://www.thaisilks.com/
>
>
>
> >
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Sep 26 11:57:22 2004
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Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2004 08:56:25 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Katie Pleasance <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
Subject: [h-cost] Duchesse Satin: was-taffeta
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Show off my ignorance time --

What's the difference between Duchesse Satin and Taffeta?

I once lined a wool skirt with taffeta -- I loved the sound it made as I 
moved -- so subtly sexy! Of course that was when I was tall and willowy 
rather than tall and mature <g>.

Katie

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Duchesse Satin: was-taffeta
Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2004 18:35:49 +0200
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Hi Kate,
It is the weawing that makes the differense. Taffeta is very tight wowen and
the thread is twisted much. Satin is weawed in another way, to make it shine
much more.
But you need to get experts to explain it better, i am not very knoledged in
weawing teckniques.
Satin also is softer and it falls heavier.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Katie Pleasance" <Katie@katiesorchids.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2004 5:56 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Duchesse Satin: was-taffeta


> Show off my ignorance time --
>
> What's the difference between Duchesse Satin and Taffeta?
>
> I once lined a wool skirt with taffeta -- I loved the sound it made as I
> moved -- so subtly sexy! Of course that was when I was tall and willowy
> rather than tall and mature <g>.
>
> Katie
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Duchesse Satin: Sorry about that!
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Whoops, must not have read carefully!

Sg

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

>Hi,
>I think you misunderstood what i said. I said that the original dress is
>made of a duchesse satin with brocaded flowers.
>I know you still gets duchesse satin, i am making something of it right now,
>but you cant get it with wowen motifs.............
>
>Bjarne
>
>  
>
>  
>
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Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2004 18:33:13 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 15thC shoe sellers?
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In message <BAY17-F25uiKjJiW9Ed00010b7c@hotmail.com>, Marc Carlson 
<marccarlson20@hotmail.com> writes
>I have a small problem personally with answering questions like this, 
>so please bear with me.  Of the people currently referred to in this 
>thread, were I to spend money buying shoes from someone else, I'd use 
>Historic Enterprises.  I am reluctant to comment further since I don't 
>want to appear critical of anyone who's trying to make shoes for a 
>living on the off chance that it might in fact matter to someone :) 
>Also, I am not familiar with the medieval shoes done by either 
>members.lycos.co.uk/KnightOE or Plantagenet (note, I'd likely go to 
>Plantagenet for their later period stuff though).
>
>You may have a problem wanting dressy and inexpensive.  You best bet is 
>to talk to one of these (or any others) shoemakers and see if they'll 
>do something more special for you -- but they are likely to charge more 
>for that.
>
>
>I'm sorry I can't be more help than that.
>
>Marc
>

I have a pair of Plantagenet's 12th century, which are well made and 
very comfortable, and I felt they were quite reasonably priced for 
buying reenactment shoes.  As with buying any reenactment clothing, it's 
not a cheap thing to do, but it is oh so worth it to have dry and happy 
feet!

Jean

-- 
Jean Waddie
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julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk> wrote
>Dear Cynthia,
>thank you for the URL  to C.M.O.T. Dibbler's website- I did a Discworld 
>websearch after e-mailing you the first time - but that particular link 
>didn't come up.
>
>As to the other question, I couldn't say, but am glad to have opened a 
>very tiny, very local window into the Past for you.
>BTW, in England, at the least, there is usually only one Outfitter per 
>Town authorised to sell the School Uniform of a particular School. It 
>was so in Southend-on-Sea, Essex, when I was young; and it was 
>certainly so over here in Jersey while our two sons were of "school age".
>I think that may have had something to do with notions of commercial 
>fairness, spreading the business around the local tradespeople.
>What the situation may be now as far as UK Uniiversities are concerned, 
>I know not; - but perhaps other UK-educated Graduates on this List may 
>be able to advise us with respect the their own particular experiences.
>Cordially,
>Julian, in "olde" Jersey
>

Apart from those private schools that want to be terribly exclusive, 
most schools now recognise that school uniform can be very expensive, 
and choose basics that can be bought from high street shops.  A lot of 
state schools ("public schools" in the US) have a school sweatshirt with 
their badge or logo on, which can be bought through the school.  And 
there's often a second-hand uniform shop run through the school to 
reduce the cost for items like blazers and ties.

University clothing is of course not compulsory, and usually available 
to students and visitors through the student shop.

Jean

-- 
Jean Waddie
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Does anyone here own the Bohemond Mary Rose shoe, or has seen said shoe 
up close and personal?

Laurie

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In a message dated 9/25/2004 8:45:15 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
rmitchell@washjeff.edu writes:
Ann, wouldn't you say that is hard to get out of Wrights under $100.? I
I didn't have a list, and had limited time, so it was about $30. But I didn't 
even GET to the ribbon!

Ann
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From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
Subject: Wright's outlet Re: [h-cost] Shopping!
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A different Ann replies--

Yes!

And I tend not to use trim, so it's pure greed.

Ann in CT--one hour away from Sturbridge & travelling
thro' there a lot to visit the Worcester area.

--- AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

> rmitchell@washjeff.edu writes:
> Ann, wouldn't you say that is hard to get out of
> Wrights under $100.? I
> I didn't have a list, and had limited time, so it
> was about $30. But I didn't 
> even GET to the ribbon!
> 
> Ann



	
		
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: h-costume Digest, Vol 3, Issue 782
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Hi, so glad to hear from you, and sorry to hear about your mother.  I will
say a prayer that all goes well. I had only about one week to get
everything together, but I think it should be OK. Lots of different scenes
and new people.  I know Bren was asking about you and hoped all was well. 
Paul asked for you too.  It would be great if you could pop in on Monday,
there might be a few odds and ends he needs like a yoyo and bean bags.  I
couldn't find any around.      Did I tell you I am teaching there? It is a
Costume design class as a directed study.  Well I will call.  I have so
much to do with the wedding.  Good luck with things and I will keep you mom
in my prayers.
Nancy


Original Message:
-----------------
From:  h-costume-request@indra.com
Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2004 12:00:52 -0600 (MDT)
To: h-costume@net.indra.com
Subject: h-costume Digest, Vol 3, Issue 782


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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Duchesse Satin: Sorry about that! (Wicked Frau)
   2. Re: 15thC shoe sellers? (Jean Waddie)
   3. Re: British university scarves + TYVM for URL (Jean Waddie)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2004 10:00:36 -0700
From: Wicked Frau <wickedfrau@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Duchesse Satin: Sorry about that!
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <4156F5B4.8060701@earthlink.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Whoops, must not have read carefully!

Sg

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

>Hi,
>I think you misunderstood what i said. I said that the original dress is
>made of a duchesse satin with brocaded flowers.
>I know you still gets duchesse satin, i am making something of it right
now,
>but you cant get it with wowen motifs.............
>
>Bjarne
>
>  
>
>  
>


------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2004 18:33:13 +0100
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 15thC shoe sellers?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <iLMOE2FZ1vVBJwaY@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii;format=flowed

In message <BAY17-F25uiKjJiW9Ed00010b7c@hotmail.com>, Marc Carlson 
<marccarlson20@hotmail.com> writes
>I have a small problem personally with answering questions like this, 
>so please bear with me.  Of the people currently referred to in this 
>thread, were I to spend money buying shoes from someone else, I'd use 
>Historic Enterprises.  I am reluctant to comment further since I don't 
>want to appear critical of anyone who's trying to make shoes for a 
>living on the off chance that it might in fact matter to someone :) 
>Also, I am not familiar with the medieval shoes done by either 
>members.lycos.co.uk/KnightOE or Plantagenet (note, I'd likely go to 
>Plantagenet for their later period stuff though).
>
>You may have a problem wanting dressy and inexpensive.  You best bet is 
>to talk to one of these (or any others) shoemakers and see if they'll 
>do something more special for you -- but they are likely to charge more 
>for that.
>
>
>I'm sorry I can't be more help than that.
>
>Marc
>

I have a pair of Plantagenet's 12th century, which are well made and 
very comfortable, and I felt they were quite reasonably priced for 
buying reenactment shoes.  As with buying any reenactment clothing, it's 
not a cheap thing to do, but it is oh so worth it to have dry and happy 
feet!

Jean

-- 
Jean Waddie


------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2004 18:38:42 +0100
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] British university scarves + TYVM for URL
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <f7SBo9Gi6vVBJw+e@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii;format=flowed

julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk> wrote
>Dear Cynthia,
>thank you for the URL  to C.M.O.T. Dibbler's website- I did a Discworld 
>websearch after e-mailing you the first time - but that particular link 
>didn't come up.
>
>As to the other question, I couldn't say, but am glad to have opened a 
>very tiny, very local window into the Past for you.
>BTW, in England, at the least, there is usually only one Outfitter per 
>Town authorised to sell the School Uniform of a particular School. It 
>was so in Southend-on-Sea, Essex, when I was young; and it was 
>certainly so over here in Jersey while our two sons were of "school age".
>I think that may have had something to do with notions of commercial 
>fairness, spreading the business around the local tradespeople.
>What the situation may be now as far as UK Uniiversities are concerned, 
>I know not; - but perhaps other UK-educated Graduates on this List may 
>be able to advise us with respect the their own particular experiences.
>Cordially,
>Julian, in "olde" Jersey
>

Apart from those private schools that want to be terribly exclusive, 
most schools now recognise that school uniform can be very expensive, 
and choose basics that can be bought from high street shops.  A lot of 
state schools ("public schools" in the US) have a school sweatshirt with 
their badge or logo on, which can be bought through the school.  And 
there's often a second-hand uniform shop run through the school to 
reduce the cost for items like blazers and ties.

University clothing is of course not compulsory, and usually available 
to students and visitors through the student shop.

Jean

-- 
Jean Waddie


------------------------------

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Subject: [h-cost] 15thC shoes
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After looking through my notes and files for 1420-1520, I must say that 
there are some really nice options for shoes.

By 1420, toes had pretty much shortened again, although in honesty for much 
of the 14th and 15th centuries, shoes with long points versus shorter 
rounder toes seems to be a class issue.  One thing that seems to be fairly 
popular during the 15th century are side laced ankle or high shoes.  The 
brass of Nicholas Canteys (d. 1431) shows a pair of such shoes with a 
semi-pointed toe, decorated with a pattern of stars (that might be punched 
from the uppers, or painted).   Punched patterns on shoes began to be 
popular in the late 14th century and remained as an option until at least 
the 1440s. During this whole period though, the illustrations don't show a 
whole lot of decorations.  Shoes are mostly depicted as single colors, black 
usually.

There are also lots of buttons, and buckles on short boots.  However, short 
shoes, below the ankle are still quite common (for example, fig. 387 in 
Bouchet shows fairly short semi-pointed shoes - although many shoes with 
this profile in statuary are actually showing the bottom edge of armored leg 
pieces).

An interesting design shown in several illustrations in Das Hausbuch are 
such boots, with black quarters and vamps, and the area above the ankle made 
from white leather and buttons.

Points start to slowly increase in length again for middle class shoes by 
the 1430s, and by the 1450s are quite noticable.  Shoes without pointed toes 
may have peaked vamps and/or peaked quarters.  By the 1470s, long peaked 
toes seem to be the thing for the upper classes.

In the mid 1480s rounded toes started appearing among the middle and upper 
classes, as the new technology of non-turned shoes came about - although 
curiously semi-pointed toe turn shoes remained for a while after that for 
the lower middle and lower classes.

After the rounded shoes come in, there are a number of variations, starting 
with big round toes.  By the 1520s, flat fronted wide shoes have come in.  
However, by that point, the poor and lower middle classes are still wearing 
round toed turn shoes.

Marc

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: New topic was Whoop! whoop!
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At 6:54 PM -0600 9/24/04, Sue Clemenger wrote:
>Okay, so here goes with something....
>How many of you have started out with a small idea for a costume or 
>article/outfit of period clothing (whatever the period), and ended 
>up picking up entirely different hobbies/skills as a result?

Mine's an accessory story rather than a garment -- otherwise very similar.

I've done Renaissance Faire for a number of years with a guild (the 
Guild of St. George) that aims for as much authenticity as possible. 
Quite a few of our people portray real characters from 16th-century 
England, and one of them asked me, "So -- my character was a Catholic 
and I want to carry a rosary. Would it have looked like modern ones?" 
"I don't know," I said, and started looking. <g>

Four years later, I have a collection of about 15 replicas of period 
rosaries and paternosters, with more in the plans (or lying in parts 
in my project box). I've learned how to string beads and knot them, 
make wrapped loops in wirework, and am contemplating learning pewter 
casting to make some of the parts I can't find for sale (creative 
shopping has been a big part of the project). In my case it's been 
more of a knowledge and research thing than learning new "hand 
skills," but since I always thought of myself as a "fiber geek," it's 
interesting to me that I'm now pursuing metal work as well. (Just 
bought my first book on the subject...)

As for art clay / precious metal clay -- the stuff Fire Mountain has 
just started selling has the advantage of being a "low-firing" type 
-- according to their catalog, you can fire it either with a 
mini-torch (about $40) or on top of a gas stove. It's also (according 
to them) made from finer particles of silver to make more durable 
products, and has Art and Creative Materials Institute approval, 
whatever that means (I would hope it's a safety endorsement, but 
haven't had occasion to look it up yet). They also sell a simple 
casting compound that can be used with the Art Clay. I'd use it in a 
minute (well, as soon as the budget can handle it anyway!) except 
that my SCA Laurel (mentor) has challenged me to learn to use 
"period" methods. <g>
-- 
_________________________________________________________
O    Chris Laning
|     <claning@igc.org>
+    Davis, California
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Also, for example, our (Lincoln, NE) parks and rec department holds various 
classes, including ceramics and china painting.  Our teacher told us if we 
wanted to do projects outside of class, we could arrange to use the 
kiln.  So perhaps this is another possibility??

Sandy

At 11:36 AM 9/26/2004, you wrote:
> >Has anyone ever tried this stuff? Is it worth it, or would I be better off
>learning how to cast and all of that mess? Could I really do it in my
>apartment? Are there any horrible fumes I'd be exposed to? Is there, by any
>chance, some type of business that might let me buy the occasional scrap of
>space in their kiln, so that I could try it a few times before buying a
>kiln?

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 09:27:51 +0100
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] british school scarves
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When I was at school in the 50s and 60s we had a knitted scarf with
stripes across. I was a university student in the early 70s and only
know of fabric scarves with lengthwise stripes.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby
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La!
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AnnBWass@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2004 7:51 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Shopping!


> In a message dated 9/25/2004 8:45:15 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> rmitchell@washjeff.edu writes:
> Ann, wouldn't you say that is hard to get out of Wrights under $100.? I
> I didn't have a list, and had limited time, so it was about $30. But I
didn't
> even GET to the ribbon!
>
> Ann
> _______________________________________________
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I had some sort of Epiphany last eve.  After following Bjarne's description of the up coming replication project, I was at Michael's yesterday and found several different skeins of contemporary 'chenille (the stuff of which the contemporary scarf rage  is using) and thought "why not".
I know it is 'polli'but when the look is wanted and the purse is not full enough to indulge in silk, how would it work?  So I spent the evening 'playing' with it to see just what effects might be possible to create texture for ornamentation. I am now excited and abuzz with visions of re creating that I had been avoiding because of the mere expense. And I also can see that judicious use of "eyelash" presents possibilities too! 
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From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 15thC shoe sellers?
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> I have a small problem personally with answering questions  like this,
so 
> please bear with me.  Of the people currently referred to in  this
thread, 
> were I to spend money buying shoes from someone else, I'd use
Historic 
> Enterprises.  I am reluctant to comment further since I don't  want to
appear 
> critical of anyone who's trying to make shoes for a living on  the off
chance 
> that it might in fact matter to someone :)  Also, I am not  familiar
with the 
> medieval shoes done by either members.lycos.co.uk/KnightOE or
Plantagenet 
> (note, I'd likely go to Plantagenet for their later period stuff
though).

Plantagenet made my lined bucket-top boots for 17th century and they are
superb (and oh so comfortable) I've not bought 15th cnetury shoes from
them but 've handlesd them, they look good and I've not heard anyone
complaining about problems with them.

Teddy
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From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Historical/inspired Hallow'een costumes
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[h-cost] Historical/inspired Hallow'een costumes

> Any of you doing historical or historical-inspired halloween costumes 
> for yourselves, family, or friends?

Bugger!

Hallow'een is approaching and I haven't *begun* to think what to wear to
a friend's party.

I have too much to do for an upcoming to start anything before October
19th....  Aaaargh!

Teddy 
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I have an opera opening that weekend.  The costume this year will be 
harried costume designer, complete with safety pins, hair pins, and a 
hidden pint of gin!
David

>>Any of you doing historical or historical-inspired halloween costumes 
>>for yourselves, family, or friends?
>>    
>>

-- 
David Serxner
NCSU Libraries Acquisitions Dept.
Serials and Electronic Resources
Campus Box 7111
Raleigh, NC  27695-7111
919-513-3355 office
919-515-7292 fax

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Historical/inspired Hallow'een costumes
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> I am going to make my son a costume based on Edward IV's toddler 
> portrait. Simplicity has the basic pattern, which I want to modify. I 
> am making the 
> outfit in linen, because he will be wearing this at hot faires next
year. I 
> will be making a separate chemise. The linen is dark blue, so I will
be 
> fabric stenciling the sleeves in a period pattern with gold paint. And
then 
> I will be adding in the hanging over-sleeves that Simplicity left off 
> (modified to easily detach).

I used that pattern (modified) as the basis for toddler costumes for two
friends' childen last year (one boy, one girl).

The boy's costume is in lishtish green brocade with rust trim, rust
brocade trunk-hose sleeves and hat (yes, I know in period the skirts
would have been floor-length and there would have been no trunk hose,
but it's just so cute as it is!) . 

The girl's costume is *bright* scarlet short-pile velvet with black
velvet ribbon trim and I just finished making a copy of it (using the
offcuts and narrower ribbon) for her favourite rag doll (which was about
the same height she was when she first got it and wears her outgrown
baby clothes). 

I'm quite proud of the doll. I originally made it for her big brother
over eight years ago and he hung onto it even though he "outgrew" it and
was happy to give it a new lease of life by passing I onto his baby
sister when she toddled into his room one day and spotted it.  So now
"she" (the doll) has a new smock and red velvet gown to replace the
shirt and blue velvet doublet and trunk-hose "he" used to wear.

Teddy
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Becky wrote: 
> You need to start out with some cheaper metal; I know there are different
> grades.  Fire Mountain Gems just started carrying the stuff and there are
> also some websites that cater to this market.  There is about a 30%
> shrinkage.  Check around your local area to see if there are any ceramics
> shops that have kilns you could rent or borrow.  Make sure the temperature
> will work -- I can't remember but I know this clay takes a certain temp.
> 

Regarding PMC: I haven't tried it yet, but I've been researching and reading
about it with an eye to learning the process at some point. Fire Mount may
have the stuff, but before you buy the kiln and other materials, you may
want to check with bead shops in your area to see if they are teaching the
class. I know that one shop in Berkeley has taught a beginning PMC class for
the past year and they let you use their kiln for the class project.

And then Cynthia wrote:
> Fire Mountain's kit includes a little torch, rather than a kiln -- much
> smaller, cheaper.
> 
> What you would do ultimately is use pewter in a soapstone mold.  Neither
> of these things are expensive; I know some of the student types in my
> old group were experimenting with them and producing fairly good things
> after a bit of practice.
> 
Pewter is great for buttons, etc. But remember that pewter is very soft and
a belt buckle of pewter may not be sturdy enough for wear unless you're
inserting a harder metal for the working part and only using the pewter for
the decoration.

FYI: The three pewter craftsmen I know use an old crock pot for melting the
pewter. it keeps the pewter melted and at an even temperature for as long as
necessary.

For what it's worth,
LynnD




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From: pixel <goddessandqueen@gmail.com>
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> 
> And then Cynthia wrote:
> > Fire Mountain's kit includes a little torch, rather than a kiln -- much
> > smaller, cheaper.
> >
> > What you would do ultimately is use pewter in a soapstone mold.  Neither
> > of these things are expensive; I know some of the student types in my
> > old group were experimenting with them and producing fairly good things
> > after a bit of practice.
> > 
> Pewter is great for buttons, etc. But remember that pewter is very soft and
> a belt buckle of pewter may not be sturdy enough for wear unless you're
> inserting a harder metal for the working part and only using the pewter for
> the decoration.
> 
> FYI: The three pewter craftsmen I know use an old crock pot for melting the
> pewter. it keeps the pewter melted and at an even temperature for as long as
> necessary.
> 
> For what it's worth,
> LynnD
> 

Oddly enough, my cast pewter belt buckles seem to wear just fine. When
you say "working part", do you mean the tongue?

I've read some stuff online about PMC that suggests one gets a molded
look more so than a cast look for the finished pieces. I suppose you
could carve a mold in investment plaster or soapstone, mold the PMC in
it, then fire it.

Margaret/Pixel
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From: pixel <goddessandqueen@gmail.com>
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> 
> And then Cynthia wrote:
> > Fire Mountain's kit includes a little torch, rather than a kiln -- much
> > smaller, cheaper.
> >
> > What you would do ultimately is use pewter in a soapstone mold.  Neither
> > of these things are expensive; I know some of the student types in my
> > old group were experimenting with them and producing fairly good things
> > after a bit of practice.
> > 
> Pewter is great for buttons, etc. But remember that pewter is very soft and
> a belt buckle of pewter may not be sturdy enough for wear unless you're
> inserting a harder metal for the working part and only using the pewter for
> the decoration.
> 
> FYI: The three pewter craftsmen I know use an old crock pot for melting the
> pewter. it keeps the pewter melted and at an even temperature for as long as
> necessary.
> 
> For what it's worth,
> LynnD
> 

Oddly enough, my cast pewter belt buckles seem to wear just fine. When
you say "working part", do you mean the tongue?

I've read some stuff online about PMC that suggests one gets a molded
look more so than a cast look for the finished pieces. I suppose you
could carve a mold in investment plaster or soapstone, mold the PMC in
it, then fire it.

Margaret/Pixel
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From: pixel <goddessandqueen@gmail.com>
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> 
> And then Cynthia wrote:
> > Fire Mountain's kit includes a little torch, rather than a kiln -- much
> > smaller, cheaper.
> >
> > What you would do ultimately is use pewter in a soapstone mold.  Neither
> > of these things are expensive; I know some of the student types in my
> > old group were experimenting with them and producing fairly good things
> > after a bit of practice.
> > 
> Pewter is great for buttons, etc. But remember that pewter is very soft and
> a belt buckle of pewter may not be sturdy enough for wear unless you're
> inserting a harder metal for the working part and only using the pewter for
> the decoration.
> 
> FYI: The three pewter craftsmen I know use an old crock pot for melting the
> pewter. it keeps the pewter melted and at an even temperature for as long as
> necessary.
> 
> For what it's worth,
> LynnD
> 

Oddly enough, my cast pewter belt buckles seem to wear just fine. When
you say "working part", do you mean the tongue?

I've read some stuff online about PMC that suggests one gets a molded
look more so than a cast look for the finished pieces. I suppose you
could carve a mold in investment plaster or soapstone, mold the PMC in
it, then fire it.

Margaret/Pixel
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pixel wrote:

> I've read some stuff online about PMC that suggests one gets a molded
> look more so than a cast look for the finished pieces.

I expect it depends how you build it.  I made some items at a seminar a 
few years ago, and we used handbuilding techniques (like pottery.)  So 
that's what it ended up looking like.  But if you know what a cast or 
worked piece should look like, there's probably no reason you can't make 
it resemble one.

Here's pictures of what I made: http://www.virtue.to/articles/silver.html

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du PrĂŠ Argent

Register to vote!  Don't let that other guy win!
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Subject: [h-cost] about japanese embroidery
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Hi,
I succeded to find a provider of the wonderfull flat silk thread used for
japanese and chinese silk embroidery in the UK. I can send some money and
get some informations about their prices.
They ask to send a A4 letter s.a.e. - could someone please explain to me
what that is?
You can se what they need to get here:
http://www.japaneseembroideryuk.com/costsmaterials.htm

It is mostly because i want to avoid to pay the nasty extra costs because
there also is a provider in Canada, but here from England it should be ok

Many thanks if you can help me

Bjarne



Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Sep 27 14:38:04 2004
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Subject: [h-cost] Embellishment for late 13th - 14th C.
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Over the last 2 weeks during my break from school, I was able to get several
gowns sewn.  They are very late 13th C. to early 14th C. French women gowns.
 I've been trying to find out how I could embellish them.  I do know of the
book "The Fashion of the Black Prince" it mentioned the use of bezants, but
where on the gowns do you place the bezants?  Is there any other good examples
of embellishment for these gowns?

Also, Armand's would like to have his garb embellished.  He is 14th C. English.


Any help will be greatly appreciated.  Thanks!

Roscelin

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Sep 27 14:38:57 2004
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: M Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Embellishment for late 13th - 14th C.
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In her book Nancy Spies shows several references to gowns being 'powdered' 
with bezants.   That is an all over application of them in a fairly spaced 
(but not looking geometric)  pattern.

Bridgette


>Over the last 2 weeks during my break from school, I was able to get several
>gowns sewn.  They are very late 13th C. to early 14th C. French women gowns.
>  I've been trying to find out how I could embellish them.  I do know of the
>book "The Fashion of the Black Prince" it mentioned the use of bezants, but
>where on the gowns do you place the bezants?  Is there any other good examples
>of embellishment for these gowns?
>
>Also, Armand's would like to have his garb embellished.  He is 14th C. 
>English.
>
>
>Any help will be greatly appreciated.  Thanks!
>
>Roscelin

webmaster@vet.cornell.edu


Mari Stewart
College of Veterinary Medicine
Cornell University  

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] about japanese embroidery
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Well, the s.a.e. part is "self-addressed envelope"  if it were s.a.s.e. it
would be "self-address stamped envelope."  The A4 indicates the size of the
envelope -- being here in the US, I am not sure what size that would be.
Maybe someone else knows that?

Becky


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Monday, September 27, 2004 11:32 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] about japanese embroidery

Hi,
I succeded to find a provider of the wonderfull flat silk thread used for
japanese and chinese silk embroidery in the UK. I can send some money and
get some informations about their prices.
They ask to send a A4 letter s.a.e. - could someone please explain to me
what that is?
You can se what they need to get here:
http://www.japaneseembroideryuk.com/costsmaterials.htm

It is mostly because i want to avoid to pay the nasty extra costs because
there also is a provider in Canada, but here from England it should be ok

Many thanks if you can help me

Bjarne



Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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Subject: [h-cost] Alteryears
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Does anyone know how to contact alteryears?

-- 
Kit
If you walk a mile in someone else's shoes, do you get to keep them? - Kenneth Cole

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Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> Hi,
> I succeded to find a provider of the wonderfull flat silk thread used for
> japanese and chinese silk embroidery in the UK. I can send some money and
> get some informations about their prices.
> They ask to send a A4 letter s.a.e. - could someone please explain to me
> what that is?

According to this site "In Great Britain, A4 is the standard size for 
folded letterhead, 4.25 x 8.625 inches. The dimensions of an A4 envelope 
is 324mm x 229mm."

http://www.littlebit.com/general_info/envelopesize.htm

S.A.E is for 'self addressed envelope'.



Dawn



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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Alteryears
Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 16:07:36 -0500
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http://www.alteryears.com/

1-626-569-9919

I haven't heard much good about their patterns. Have you had good luck with
them?

De

-----Original Message-----
Does anyone know how to contact alteryears?

--
Kit
If you walk a mile in someone else's shoes, do you get to keep them? -
Kenneth Cole


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From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] 14th century details
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Hello,

I'm looking at this Braun & Schneider plate, #20b, "Fourteenth Century 
Princess and Lady in Waiting."

http://www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/PLATE20BX.HTML

On the gown on the right, the green one, can anyone tell me what the red 
band is supposed to represent? Is that an underdress or a border?

The blue and white dress next to it looks like it has a border, but the 
following plate, #21, has a gown with a border and an underdress. I 
realize these are Victorian drawings and subject to a good deal of 
interpretation by the artists.

Am I correct in thinking this style is cut flat across the front and all 
shaping is done in the side seams?



Dawn


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Dawn wrote:
> http://www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/PLATE20BX.HTML
> 
> On the gown on the right, the green one, can anyone tell me what the red 
> band is supposed to represent? Is that an underdress or a border?

I believe the artist thought that it was a border, as its fold lines 
follow that of the skirt.

> realize these are Victorian drawings and subject to a good deal of 
> interpretation by the artists.

Yes, indeedy!  That green neckline is pure Victorian.  I like the 
armscye sleeve dags; don't think I've seen that anywhere before.

> Am I correct in thinking this style is cut flat across the front and all 
> shaping is done in the side seams?

No one knows.  But I'm a follower of Robin Netherton's.  If you search 
the archives on "gothic fitted dress" you'll see a lot of discussion 
about it.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or
Cynthia du PrĂŠ Argent

Register to vote!  Don't let that other guy win!
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I think the red band on the green dress is supposed to be some sort of 
border.  It's got buttons running down the central part of it, just like 
the bodice, which is green.
Pretty odd-looking though...I don't know *where* the artist figured that 
the red would start...perhaps under the belt?
--sue

Dawn wrote:

> Hello,
> 
> I'm looking at this Braun & Schneider plate, #20b, "Fourteenth Century 
> Princess and Lady in Waiting."
> 
> http://www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/PLATE20BX.HTML
> 
> On the gown on the right, the green one, can anyone tell me what the red 
> band is supposed to represent? Is that an underdress or a border?
> 


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Subject: [h-cost] Eleanor Dress???
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This website says that this gown was worn by Eleanor of Toledo, but I 
don't think I've ever seen it before.  Does anyone know anything more 
about it?
It's awfully pretty...I think I want it, regardless of who wore the 
original!
--sue

http://www.wonders.org/images/gallery4.jpg

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Would you mind sending the URL to the page that has the information on 
the dress? I tried searching the site myself but it's pretty big and I 
grew frustrated.

Thanks!

Melissa

Sue Clemenger wrote:

> This website says that this gown was worn by Eleanor of Toledo, but I 
> don't think I've ever seen it before.  Does anyone know anything more 
> about it?
> It's awfully pretty...I think I want it, regardless of who wore the 
> original!
> --sue
> 
> http://www.wonders.org/images/gallery4.jpg

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 14th century details
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On Mon, 27 Sep 2004, Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> Dawn wrote:
> > http://www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/PLATE20BX.HTML
> > 
> > On the gown on the right, the green one, can anyone tell me what the red 
> > band is supposed to represent? Is that an underdress or a border?
> 
> I believe the artist thought that it was a border, as its fold lines 
> follow that of the skirt.

Note Cynthia's careful phrasing here ;-) Nothing in here can be taken as
authoritative or accurate. It has passed through too many eyes and hands
since the original, and most of those interpreters have not had a goal of
historic accuracy.

To begin with, it's worth noting that on these sorts of books (late 19th
c. picture books) the coloring may have been by a different hand than the
engraver. The engraver, in turn, would have been working from an earlier
drawing, not from the original period artwork. The goal was to make a book
of pretty pictures, not to present authoritative records of period art. So
Braun and Schneider would have taken their figures from a variety of
previous published books on manuscripts, tomb effigies, tapestries, etc.
and combined figures and elements of figures that pleased them.

So: The border may have been fur in the original, but it's anyone's guess
what either the engraver or the colorist thought it was -- a fabric
border, a second layer, etc.

The red band down the front is particularly curious. The coloring suggests
that it's somehow related to the red at the bottom, but that doesn't
represent anything I know of in this period. The lines of the engraving
suggest it's some sort of decorative band, perhaps with jewels or buttons
on it, but also that it starts at the belt line, which would suggest a
hipline seam under the belt -- something quite unlikely in this time
period, and also inconsistent with the blousing effect drawn above the
belt.

I suspect that somewhere along the line, someone (either the earlier
source, or Braun and Schneider) misread a line of vertical buttons and
turned it into some sort of trim.  The colorist could then have misread
*that* as being somehow related to the bottom border. The border, in turn,
was probably a multiple-times-removed rendition of what was originally a
fur border on some original piece of art.

I believe I've seen that line of vertical buttons combined with the
hanging things on the arms, on a German tomb slab now in the St. Louis Art
Museum (local to me). The slab itself is so badly worn you can't see most
of the details now, but they were clearer a century or two ago, and along
with the display of the slab itself, the museum shows a rather old
artist's drawing of the slab. I'd have to go back downtown to see when
that drawing was made, but I'd lay good money it's from one of the
antiquarian books on sculpture that were made in the late 18th and early
19th centuries, which would mean that the image (though not the slab
itself!) would have been accessible to Braun & Schneider, who of course
were looking mostly at German sources anyway.

> Yes, indeedy!  That green neckline is pure Victorian.  I like the
> armscye sleeve dags; don't think I've seen that anywhere before.

I've seen these elsewhere; Kohler shows a German 15th c. dress with
full-length dagged strips coming from that point on the arm, for example.
Of course they could just be a *popular* misinterpretation. The tomb slab
here has, I think, bands around the arms that hold the hanging
chains/bells in a tippet-like style, and the short dags here could be a
misreading of that feature, as sifted through two or three interpreters.

The collar might have started as a band with small hanging bells. I will
look at the St. Louis slab next time I'm down at the museum, probably in
the next few weeks, to see if that's from the same source.

> > Am I correct in thinking this style is cut flat across the front and all 
> > shaping is done in the side seams?
> 
> No one knows.  But I'm a follower of Robin Netherton's.  If you search 
> the archives on "gothic fitted dress" you'll see a lot of discussion 
> about it.

Or go to my web page, http://www.netherton.net/robin , where I've got a
beginner's FAQ on the style that I made for a workshop, and (more
important) a collection of those past h-cost threads, up to a certain
point. I suppose I should put together Volume II of the collected GFD
posts...

--Robin


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Please forgive me if this has been covered a million times. I did try to 
do a search on the h-cost list but didn't have much luck and got very 
frustrated.

My question is this: Is there evidence for lacing in the 
first/supporting layer of a Gothic fitted dress? I ask because I am just 
beginning to make my very first one and have been told by a costume 
laurel here that the underdress should have flat buttons and that lacing 
isn't accurate.  To my mind, lacing makes much more sense for that 
underdress (for lack of a better term).

If anyone can point me in the right direction, I'd be very grateful.

Thanks!

Melissa
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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 20:56:31 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 14th century details
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Aha! I just found a photo online of the German tomb slab I was talking
about in my previous post. Or, to be precise, a photo of the 19th? c.
*drawing* of the tomb slab. The slab, as I've said, is in the St. Louis
Art Museum, and the drawing is NOT accurate in many details.

The drawing is used as part of a costumer's documentation for a
competition entry, here:

http://www.ringworld.org/~zling/gs03a.htm

It appears that this drawing is a likely source for the Braun & Schneider
plate, here:

http://www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/PLATE20BX.HTML

...as the B&S plate is quite close to the drawing, including in details
that I believe are not on the original tomb (though I'd have to check the
tomb again to be sure of the specifics). I do recall that on the original
slab, the hanging tippet-like things have more of a suggestion of dagged
fabric than bells or tassels. I also suspect that the prominent folding at
the hips, that suggests a gathering line or seam at belt level, is not
quite the same in the original.

Braun and Schneider almost certainly never saw the original tomb cover.
However, even if they did, there still remains one obvious problem with
the B&S version: The coloring. The tomb slab, of course, is not colored.
Neither is the earlier engraving of the slab. So the color choices in the
B&S plate, which seem to be making statements about various layers (at the
upper arms, the hem, etc.) are completely the imagination of the colorist
and have no grounding in the original source.

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Eleanor Dress???
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I'm not the original poster, but if you go to
http://www.wonders.org/gallery.htm
then click on the image of the dress, you'll see the dress and the
information. It's quite sketchy and I'm not sure that I believe that
it's her gown...

I'm going to send an email to the curator. I'll post what info I get
back.

kate

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Melissa Brown" <gold@where.else.net.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, September 27, 2004 9:12 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Eleanor Dress???


> Would you mind sending the URL to the page that has the information
on
> the dress? I tried searching the site myself but it's pretty big and
I
> grew frustrated.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Melissa
>
> Sue Clemenger wrote:
>
> > This website says that this gown was worn by Eleanor of Toledo,
but I
> > don't think I've ever seen it before.  Does anyone know anything
more
> > about it?
> > It's awfully pretty...I think I want it, regardless of who wore
the
> > original!
> > --sue
> >
> > http://www.wonders.org/images/gallery4.jpg
>
> _______________________________________________
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Historical/inspired Hallow'een costumes
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> This is the image of Edward IV as a toddler (Hans Holbein, 1539)
> http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Edward3.jpg

Wow, that's exactly like the Simplicity pattern for toddlers that came out
last year! I'm sure they got their inspiration there!
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Eleanor Dress???
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Thanks! I look forward to hearing what the curator says. :-)

ailith wrote:

> I'm not the original poster, but if you go to
> http://www.wonders.org/gallery.htm
> then click on the image of the dress, you'll see the dress and the
> information. It's quite sketchy and I'm not sure that I believe that
> it's her gown...
> 
> I'm going to send an email to the curator. I'll post what info I get
> back.
> 
> kate

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Eleanor Dress???
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It kinda reminds me of the one in the Victoria & Albert Museum that Janet
Arnold had mocked up, towards the bottom of this page:  

http://www.kipar.demon.co.uk/arnold.html

It also resembles the one in the Patterns of Fashion book.  Should be
interesting to see if it's authentic.

Becky



ailith wrote:

> I'm not the original poster, but if you go to
> http://www.wonders.org/gallery.htm
> then click on the image of the dress, you'll see the dress and the
> information. It's quite sketchy and I'm not sure that I believe that
> it's her gown...
> 
> I'm going to send an email to the curator. I'll post what info I get
> back.
> 
> kate

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My next frustration: belts & metalwork
Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 23:14:32 -0400
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On Monday 27 September 2004 1:11 pm, pixel wrote:
> > And then Cynthia wrote:
[snip]
> > Pewter is great for buttons, etc. But remember that pewter is very soft
> > and a belt buckle of pewter may not be sturdy enough for wear unless
> > you're inserting a harder metal for the working part and only using the
> > pewter for the decoration.
[snip]

> Oddly enough, my cast pewter belt buckles seem to wear just fine. When
> you say "working part", do you mean the tongue?

I note that at least one vendor sells pewter findings for belts, including 
buckles:

http://www.billyandcharlie.com/belt.html

If you wish, they will for a fee make up a belt to your specifications, using 
findings of theirs that you select:

http://www.billyandcharlie.com/belts.html

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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Interesting. Over here SAE means stamped addressed envelope. However, that
would only work within a country, as the postage and currency vary.

I'd confirm with them, Bjarne.

Glenda.
----- Original Message ----- 

>
> S.A.E is for 'self addressed envelope'.
>
>
>
> Dawn
>


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] On lacing the GFD (aka Cotehardie)
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On Tue, 28 Sep 2004, Melissa Brown wrote:

> My question is this: Is there evidence for lacing in the
> first/supporting layer of a Gothic fitted dress? I ask because I am
> just beginning to make my very first one and have been told by a
> costume laurel here that the underdress should have flat buttons and
> that lacing isn't accurate.

Oh my goodness. Where are you located, that the laurels are saying such
things?

> To my mind, lacing makes much more sense for that underdress (for lack
> of a better term).

Underdress is a perfectly fine term, as long as your listeners understand
you don't mean the chemise (which is underwear, beneath the dress
layer(s)). And you're right: lacing makes more sense, both in terms of
practical comfort and the available historic evidence.

It's rare that we get pictures that are *really* *clearly* meant to be the
underdress (that is, the layer that goes over the chemise and under the
overdress). However, when we do, and when a fastening is visible, it is
generally laced. In fact, I don't think I've ever seen an example of front
buttons on this layer.

Off the top of my head, here are some examples of dresses that are clearly
the first layer over the chemise and that also have clear front lacing:

-- One of the female fieldworkers in the June illumination of the Tres
Riches Heures, c. 1415; she is probably romanticized in being shown in a
"rustic" version of the fitted dress, but there's no reason to think that
the lacing is a fanciful addition.

-- The nursing Madonna in the Rohan Hours, c. 1420.

-- Several of Rogier van der Weyden's Magdalens, including the one in the
Descent from the Cross at the Prado in Madrid, c. 1438. (Several later
Flemish painters copied this clothing treatment, of a laced underdress
worn without an overgown, for Magdalen and other "ladies in distress"; I
have examples by Hugo van der Goes and Petrus Christus. They're too late
for our period of interest for this dress, and by then the style used in
this was was iconographic. Rogier did it first, though, and can be taken
as more representative of contemporary style of his period.)

-- The half-undressed female gatekeeper, Sloth (Paresse), at the castle of
Sadness and Wrath, in King Rene's Book of Love (Le Cueur d'Amours Espris),
c. 1457 -- later than you'd normally look for a GFD, but not completely
out of range.

There are many, many other examples of front-laced dresses, but it's
unclear what layer they are, so I'm not going to start rattling them off.

If your laurel friend has any evidence in period art, documents, or
artifacts for an undergown that is buttoned up the torso, I really want to
see it, because I can't recall ever having seen such a case. There's
plenty of evidence for *over*dresses that have buttons up the front, of
course, though I should also note that buttons appear to have been
fashionable only for a subset of the years and places in which the fitted
dress was worn. Examples with no buttons are more plentiful. (Some have
lacings, some have no visible fastenings.) So it would be perfectly
reasonable for you to do a fitted underdress and overdress with no buttons
at all.

--Robin




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Eleanor Dress???
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www.wonders.org is the main website for the exhibits.  I couldn't find 
any information about the dress, specifically, outside of the caption 
for the picture.  That's one of the reasons I was asking the list <g>.
--sue

Melissa Brown wrote:
> Would you mind sending the URL to the page that has the information on 
> the dress? I tried searching the site myself but it's pretty big and I 
> grew frustrated.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Melissa
> 
> Sue Clemenger wrote:
> 
>> This website says that this gown was worn by Eleanor of Toledo, but I 
>> don't think I've ever seen it before.  Does anyone know anything more 
>> about it?
>> It's awfully pretty...I think I want it, regardless of who wore the 
>> original!
>> --sue
>>
>> http://www.wonders.org/images/gallery4.jpg
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: 15thC shoe sellers?
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>From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
>Plantagenet made my lined bucket-top boots for 17th century and they are
>superb (and oh so comfortable) I've not bought 15th cnetury shoes from
>them but 've handlesd them, they look good and I've not heard anyone
>complaining about problems with them.

I'm certain they are good shoes.  I can not determine construction quality 
or type with the photos I've seen (which is not a bad thing).  This is why I 
said I wasn't really in a position to judge them

They do, however, appear to be made on a modern last - or at least not on a 
15th century last (agian, not a complaint, since right now I'm not sure 
anyone is making shoes on medieval style lasts except me right now, but I 
hope to get that to change.

Marc

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Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 09:17:06 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Sheryl Nance-Durst <sherylnd@kc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] about japanese embroidery
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Bjarne,

What's the supplier in Canada?
Do they have a website?

Sheryl Nance-Durst

At 08:31 PM 9/27/04 +0200, you wrote:

>It is mostly because i want to avoid to pay the nasty extra costs because
>there also is a provider in Canada, but here from England it should be ok
>
>Bjarne



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Hi,
There is the japanese embroidery center, wich i think is in Canada, not sure
here:
http://www.japaneseembroidery.com/index.html
And then there is a USA provider wich runs more than 300 colours,
gosh...........
http://www.shaypendray.com/Pages/JEPages/JEsilkcolor2.html

Another thing to use my money on.
But the Japanese Embroidery Center is the cheapest with the flat thread. 6
dollars for spools with 60 meters on.
Thanks for your explanations with the s.a.e.
Bjarne


----- Original Mesage ----- 
From: "Sheryl Nance-Durst" <sherylnd@kc.rr.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 28, 2004 4:17 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] about japanese embroidery


> Bjarne,
>
> What's the supplier in Canada?
> Do they have a website?
>
> Sheryl Nance-Durst
>
> At 08:31 PM 9/27/04 +0200, you wrote:
>
> >It is mostly because i want to avoid to pay the nasty extra costs because
> >there also is a provider in Canada, but here from England it should be ok
> >
> >Bjarne
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 14th century details
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> Dawn wrote:
> > http://www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/PLATE20BX.HTML
> > 
> > On the gown on the right, the green one, can anyone tell me what the red 
> > band is supposed to represent? Is that an underdress or a border?
>
> I believe the artist thought that it was a border, as its fold lines 
> follow that of the skirt.
>
> > realize these are Victorian drawings and subject to a good deal of 
> > interpretation by the artists.
>
> Yes, indeedy!  That green neckline is pure Victorian.  I like the 
> armscye sleeve dags; don't think I've seen that anywhere before.

I don't know that I've seen dags exactly like that, but you see a lot
of "short sleeve short dags" type stuff in a lot of Flemish art -- and
I'll even qualify that further, and say I don't know the time frame off
the top of my head.  I"ll have to see if I can dig up some images.

Jerusha
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Subject: [h-cost] Re:  Eleanor Dress???
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Greetings!

I sent an email to the curator, Stever Masler, last evening. I asked if he had any information regarding the provenance for the gown or any other information about it. 

This is what I received back:

"I have questioned our curators in Florence about this dress and they have
sent me the following information:

Meanwhile, you can tell the lady that the catalogue is correct: the dress is
part of the collection of the Museo di Palazzo Reale in Pisa and it has been
recently discovered( but there's another famous dress belonging to Eleonora
conserved in the Galleria del Costume in Florence)
I remember the dress had been long used as liturgical dress (to cover a
sculpture portraying the Virgin) so it was modified yet in the 17th or 18th
century and the restoration aimed at giving back the dress its original
shape and length (part of the fabric was in fact folded to make it shorter)."

Not a lot of information, but it's at least something.

With regards,
kate


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>
> Would you mind sending the URL to the page that has the information on 
> the dress? I tried searching the site myself but it's pretty big and I 
> grew frustrated.

It's set so that you can't get to the link (at least not with Netscape
and it's usually pretty lenient about that.)  I just backed up the URL
until I found this page
http://www.wonders.org/gallery.htm

then click on the dress, and the information comes up.  It's from that
Masters of Florence exhibit that's currently in Memphis.

Jerusha
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Subject: [h-cost] Vogue Pattern
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Good Folks:
I am in dire need of a copy in 18, 20, or 22 size Vintage Vogue pattern 
2289.  It is out of print and Vogue does not have any at all.  I looked 
on sewing patterns and oldpatterns to no avail.  Please contact me off 
the list if you have a copy of this pattern.

Thanks very much!
David

-- 
David Serxner
NCSU Libraries Acquisitions Dept.
Serials and Electronic Resources
Campus Box 7111
Raleigh, NC  27695-7111
919-513-3355 office
919-515-7292 fax

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Vogue Pattern
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 15:35:53 +0000
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Could you provide a brief description of the garments the pattern makes?  I have *several* old Vogues, but they are in storage.  I can dig, but need a picture in my mind what to look for, besides a number...

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 
Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> Good Folks: 
> I am in dire need of a copy in 18, 20, or 22 size Vintage Vogue pattern 
> 2289. It is out of print and Vogue does not have any at all. I looked 
> on sewing patterns and oldpatterns to no avail. Please contact me off 
> the list if you have a copy of this pattern. 
> 
> Thanks very much! 
> David 
> 
> -- 
> David Serxner 
> NCSU Libraries Acquisitions Dept. 
> Serials and Electronic Resources 
> Campus Box 7111 
> Raleigh, NC 27695-7111 
> 919-513-3355 office 
> 919-515-7292 fax 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: 15thC shoe sellers?
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>From: randl@adelphia.net
>Does anyone here own the Bohemond Mary Rose shoe, or has seen said shoe
>up close and personal?

I would be interested as well, since the shoe pictued on his web page must 
be an error, since that's about a century off from the Mary Rose.

Marc

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Vogue Pattern
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Oh, yes, well that would have been clever.  Sorry about that, the stress 
of not being able to easily locate it got to me.

It is the 1949 1 piece Summer dress with a rouched looking neckline.  It 
was released as part of the Vintage Vogue line and has a copyright date 
on the instructions of 1999.

The front of the envelope shows the dress in black and in a flower 
patterned fabric.

David

gia_gavino@comcast.net wrote:

>Could you provide a brief description of the garments the pattern makes?  I have *several* old Vogues, but they are in storage.  I can dig, but need a picture in my mind what to look for, besides a number...
>
>--
>Slan go foill 
>Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 
>Emer's Needle Wares
>
>-------------- Original message -------------- 
>
>  
>
>>Good Folks: 
>>I am in dire need of a copy in 18, 20, or 22 size Vintage Vogue pattern 
>>2289. It is out of print and Vogue does not have any at all. I looked 
>>on sewing patterns and oldpatterns to no avail. Please contact me off 
>>the list if you have a copy of this pattern. 
>>
>>Thanks very much! 
>>David 
>>
>>-- 
>>David Serxner 
>>NCSU Libraries Acquisitions Dept. 
>>Serials and Electronic Resources 
>>Campus Box 7111 
>>Raleigh, NC 27695-7111 
>>919-513-3355 office 
>>919-515-7292 fax 
>>
>>_______________________________________________ 
>>h-costume mailing list 
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com 
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
>>    
>>
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>

-- 
David Serxner
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Sep 28 12:21:17 2004
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Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 09:12:29 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Vogue Pattern
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
To: h costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I have extras of several of the V.V. patterns and will be happy to send it
to you if I have the one you want. I'll check tonight and respond in the
morning - if you don't already have an offer.

As Gia said, a description of the dress would be helpful.

LynnD


> From: <gia_gavino@comcast.net>
> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 15:35:53 +0000
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Vogue Pattern
> 
> Could you provide a brief description of the garments the pattern makes?  I
> have *several* old Vogues, but they are in storage.  I can dig, but need a
> picture in my mind what to look for, besides a number...
> 
> --
> Slan go foill 
> Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri
> Emer's Needle Wares
> 
> -------------- Original message --------------
> 
>> Good Folks: 
>> I am in dire need of a copy in 18, 20, or 22 size Vintage Vogue pattern
>> 2289. It is out of print and Vogue does not have any at all. I looked
>> on sewing patterns and oldpatterns to no avail. Please contact me off
>> the list if you have a copy of this pattern.
>> 
>> Thanks very much!
>> David 
>> 
>> -- 
>> David Serxner 
>> NCSU Libraries Acquisitions Dept.
>> Serials and Electronic Resources
>> Campus Box 7111 
>> Raleigh, NC 27695-7111
>> 919-513-3355 office
>> 919-515-7292 fax
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Vogue Pattern
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
To: h costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I'll check tonight and get back to you privately.
LynnD



> From: David Serxner <david_serxner@ncsu.edu>
> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 12:04:18 -0400
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Vogue Pattern
> 
> Oh, yes, well that would have been clever.  Sorry about that, the stress
> of not being able to easily locate it got to me.
> 
> It is the 1949 1 piece Summer dress with a rouched looking neckline.  It
> was released as part of the Vintage Vogue line and has a copyright date
> on the instructions of 1999.
> 
> The front of the envelope shows the dress in black and in a flower
> patterned fabric.
> 
> David
> 
> gia_gavino@comcast.net wrote:
> 
>> Could you provide a brief description of the garments the pattern makes?  I
>> have *several* old Vogues, but they are in storage.  I can dig, but need a
>> picture in my mind what to look for, besides a number...
>> 
>> --
>> Slan go foill 
>> Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri
>> Emer's Needle Wares
>> 
>> -------------- Original message --------------
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>> Good Folks: 
>>> I am in dire need of a copy in 18, 20, or 22 size Vintage Vogue pattern
>>> 2289. It is out of print and Vogue does not have any at all. I looked
>>> on sewing patterns and oldpatterns to no avail. Please contact me off
>>> the list if you have a copy of this pattern.
>>> 
>>> Thanks very much!
>>> David 
>>> 
>>> -- 
>>> David Serxner 
>>> NCSU Libraries Acquisitions Dept.
>>> Serials and Electronic Resources
>>> Campus Box 7111
>>> Raleigh, NC 27695-7111
>>> 919-513-3355 office
>>> 919-515-7292 fax
>>> 
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>    
>>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>  
>> 
> 
> -- 
> David Serxner
> NCSU Libraries Acquisitions Dept.
> Serials and Electronic Resources
> Campus Box 7111
> Raleigh, NC  27695-7111
> 919-513-3355 office
> 919-515-7292 fax
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume



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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Eleanor Dress???
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On Tue, 28 Sep 2004, Susan Farmer wrote:

> http://www.wonders.org/gallery.htm
> 
> then click on the dress, and the information comes up.  It's from that
> Masters of Florence exhibit that's currently in Memphis.

Has anyone been to this exhibit? My mother-in-law went and told me there
were a bunch of costumes, but from her description I couldn't be sure if
they were actual period survivals or museum reproductions.

--Robin

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From: "Cindy Abel" <brujne@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Eleanor Dress???
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 12:01:16 -0500
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There is a limited online gift shop as well--I just clicked back to the main
page at www.wonders.org and clicked on the gift shop link. There is a
catalog for the exibit but don't know if there is enough on costume to merit
ordering the catalog. Anyone know?

Cindy Abel


> http://www.wonders.org/gallery.htm
>
> then click on the dress, and the information comes up.  It's from that
> Masters of Florence exhibit that's currently in Memphis.

Has anyone been to this exhibit? My mother-in-law went and told me there
were a bunch of costumes, but from her description I couldn't be sure if
they were actual period survivals or museum reproductions.

--Robin

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Sep 28 13:34:56 2004
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Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 10:38:45 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Eleanor Dress???
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Greetings,

I had the great good fortune of seeing the original this summer in 
Florence.  Did you know that it's against the rules of Pitti Palace to 
leave nose marks on the glass and drool on the floor?  *laughs*

Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com
*** http://www.alfalfapress.com

Public Relations Manager
Sauron/Voldemort 2004

Bush/Cheney - Bringing Bigotry back to the Constitution.

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Sep 28 13:48:21 2004
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I figured I'd ask here, since trolling through various  websites (and eBay) 
hasn't yielded anything affordable and pretty (I know, I  want both..silly me!).
 
Anyway, I'm trying to make a historically-based, if not  historically 
accurate, costume for Holloween, at least part of which I can wear  other times.  So, 
I wanted to make Butterick's costume pattern 4093 (a  circa 1914 gown and 
tunic with girdle), though it looks more 1920's because of  the dropped waist and 
such.  I've found fabric that I'm fairly sure that I  can use, in blue in 
this instance, but I'm having a problem finding the trim  that they call for: 
beaded ribbon, 8.5 yards of it.  Or, more specifically,  I can't find anything 
that looks nice and isn't as expensive as the stuff at  MJTrim, which seems to 
start at $20 per yard.  If I needed one yard, I'd be  fine, but I'd rather not 
spend $160 or so on trim!  Does anyone have any  suggested websites that sell 
beaded trim, or fabric stores in the Pittsburgh  area that sell it?
 
Thanks!
 
Christine
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In a message dated 9/28/2004 1:48:26 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
IceGirlNIN@aol.com writes:

> Butterick's costume pattern 4093 

Not a bad dress at all. I wonder though if Circa 1914 includes 1929.

Anyway, have you considered the beaded fringe one often sees in precut 
packages. It's often in the craft sections of store....like with lampshade making 
supplies. [I don't entirely get it either] That would look great on the 
handkerchief hem of the overskirt. Or a beaded fabric you could cut into "ribbon".
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IceGirlNIN@aol.com wrote:


>  Does anyone have any  suggested websites that sell 
> beaded trim, or fabric stores in the Pittsburgh  area that sell it?
>  

I love that pattern! I've had it on my sewing table for months now, 
waiting for an excuse to make it.

Normally I would point you at fabric.com because they carry bead trim at 
fabulous prices but they are sold out of everything at the moment.... 
except beaded eyelash fringe.

There's ebay, but I don't think you'll get a good price there.

What I would do is get a nice embroidered ribbon for the edge trim, and 
if it had to be "beaded" I would sit down with a pack of sequins and the 
bottle of superglue.




Dawn


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Have you looked at beaded trim at Cheeptrims.com!? I've discovered that they
have some connection with Kazan(?)Trims.  Got a great box of goodies in June
and it is all quality stuff.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <IceGirlNIN@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 28, 2004 1:47 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Semi-OT: Beaded Trim


> I figured I'd ask here, since trolling through various  websites (and
eBay)
> hasn't yielded anything affordable and pretty (I know, I  want both..silly
me!).
>
> Anyway, I'm trying to make a historically-based, if not  historically
> accurate, costume for Holloween, at least part of which I can wear  other
times.  So,
> I wanted to make Butterick's costume pattern 4093 (a  circa 1914 gown and
> tunic with girdle), though it looks more 1920's because of  the dropped
waist and
> such.  I've found fabric that I'm fairly sure that I  can use, in blue in
> this instance, but I'm having a problem finding the trim  that they call
for:
> beaded ribbon, 8.5 yards of it.  Or, more specifically,  I can't find
anything
> that looks nice and isn't as expensive as the stuff at  MJTrim, which
seems to
> start at $20 per yard.  If I needed one yard, I'd be  fine, but I'd rather
not
> spend $160 or so on trim!  Does anyone have any  suggested websites that
sell
> beaded trim, or fabric stores in the Pittsburgh  area that sell it?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Christine
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "Five Rivers" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re:about japanese embroidery 
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    We carry flat filament silks which are what is used in Japanese
embroidery, little say most historical embroidery. And we're in Canada. URL
in tagline.

Regards
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage
fine hand-sewn embroidered garments, historical sewing patterns & embroidery
supplies
(519) 799-5577, http://www.5rivers.org  email: info@5rivers.org

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Robin Netherton wrote:

> Or go to my web page, http://www.netherton.net/robin , where I've got a
> beginner's FAQ on the style that I made for a workshop, and (more
> important) a collection of those past h-cost threads, up to a certain
> point. I suppose I should put together Volume II of the collected GFD
> posts...

Very informative, thank you again. I notice that you recommend linen and 
wool for this style. The linen I think I can find, but I don't know much 
about weaves of wool. Would a crepe such as this one be a good choice?

http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/aa-895.html

If not, what kind of weave should I be looking for?



Dawn



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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: On lacing the GFD (aka Cotehardie)
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Robin wrote:

>If your laurel friend has any evidence in period art, documents, or
>artifacts for an undergown that is buttoned up the torso, I really want to
>see it, because I can't recall ever having seen such a case. There's
>plenty of evidence for *over*dresses that have buttons up the front, of
>course, though I should also note that buttons appear to have been
>fashionable only for a subset of the years and places in which the fitted
>dress was worn. Examples with no buttons are more plentiful. (Some have
>lacings, some have no visible fastenings.) So it would be perfectly
>reasonable for you to do a fitted underdress and overdress with no buttons
>at all.

This is, of course, assuming we all mean the same thing by "overdress."

I think Robin (who can correct me if I'm wrong!) is assuming that the "norm" is three layers:
a. chemise,
b. undergown (a GFD)
c. overgown (a less structurally important GFD)

However, many people seem to think that the layers are:
a. chemise,
b. undergown (a GFD, but usually called a cotehardie)
c. sideless surcote (which many people assume is a universal garment, and which I also wish people would quit referring to as simply "a sideless", BTW)

If the _real_ layers are:
1. chemise,
2. closely fitted GFD,
3. less closely fitted GFD,
4. (if any) sideless surcote

For people who see the surcote as a "normal" layer, I can see where they would call what is really layer 3 "the undergown." Since layer 3 *can* sometimes have buttons, could this be the source of the confusion? 

____________________________________________________________
0  Chris Laning
|  <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
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Hello,

Yes, we are all talking about the same layers :-)

Thanks for pointing that out tho.

Melissa


Chris Laning wrote:

> This is, of course, assuming we all mean the same thing by "overdress."
<snip>

> If the _real_ layers are:
> 1. chemise,
> 2. closely fitted GFD,
> 3. less closely fitted GFD,
> 4. (if any) sideless surcote
> 
> For people who see the surcote as a "normal" layer, I can see where they would call what is really layer 3 "the undergown." Since layer 3 *can* sometimes have buttons, could this be the source of the confusion? 

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Hello Robin,

Thank you for your detailed answers to my question - most especially for 
the documentation to back it all up!

The laurel in question is someone I quite respect here in New Zealand 
(Lochac). I will cite your sources to him and ask him for his sources in 
exchange. When I have that information I will post it here.

Thank you again. I will now embark on my first ever 4 panel cotehardie.

What will I do without those princess seams? ;)

Melissa


Robin Netherton wrote:
<snipped for brevity>
> Oh my goodness. Where are you located, that the laurels are saying such
> things?
<snip>
> Off the top of my head, here are some examples of dresses that are clearly
> the first layer over the chemise and that also have clear front lacing:
<snip>
> If your laurel friend has any evidence in period art, documents, or
> artifacts for an undergown that is buttoned up the torso, I really want to
> see it, because I can't recall ever having seen such a case. There's
> plenty of evidence for *over*dresses that have buttons up the front, of
> course, though I should also note that buttons appear to have been
> fashionable only for a subset of the years and places in which the fitted
> dress was worn. Examples with no buttons are more plentiful. (Some have
> lacings, some have no visible fastenings.) So it would be perfectly
> reasonable for you to do a fitted underdress and overdress with no buttons
> at all.
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Thanks for postin the information Kate.

I'm excited at another extant find!

Best,

Melissa

ailith@neo.rr.com wrote:

> Greetings!
> 
> I sent an email to the curator, Stever Masler, last evening. I asked if he had any information regarding the provenance for the gown or any other information about it. 

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 14th century details
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On Tue, 28 Sep 2004, Dawn wrote:

> Robin Netherton wrote:
> 
> > Or go to my web page, http://www.netherton.net/robin , where I've got a
> > beginner's FAQ on the style that I made for a workshop, and (more
> > important) a collection of those past h-cost threads, up to a certain
> > point. I suppose I should put together Volume II of the collected GFD
> > posts...
> 
> Very informative, thank you again. I notice that you recommend linen and 
> wool for this style. The linen I think I can find, but I don't know much 
> about weaves of wool. Would a crepe such as this one be a good choice?
> 
> http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/aa-895.html

I'd stay away from crepes. People who know more about weaving than I do
say that while a type of crepeing was known (or at least theoretically
possible?) in period, it was different from the technique used for modern
crepe fabric. (Someone who's a weaving specialist can probably explain
that better than I can.)

For thinner, smoother wools, try worsteds -- gabardines, twills. For
slightly heavier, look at flannels and plain weaves in woolens. Worsteds
(think "men's suiting") are surprisingly fine, and there are many woolens
that aren't heavy or fuzzy. My own current dress is a woolen and it's
extremely comfortable.

Fashion Fabrics Online (Fashion Fabrics Club) usually has a good
selection, but look out for the lycra blends -- they're everywhere this
season, and not always labeled :-P

--Robin



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Semi-OT: Beaded Trim
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I second the recommendation for Cheeptrims.com. I order from them on a regular basis and I am always satisfied by my purchases. The prices are also very good- you have to order in bulk, but with the costumes I make, I use the trim in bulk so it works out nicely. 



Karen

-- IceGirlNIN@aol.com wrote:
I figured I'd ask here, since trolling through various  websites (and eBay) 
hasn't yielded anything affordable and pretty (I know, I  want both..silly me!).
 
Anyway, I'm trying to make a historically-based, if not  historically 
accurate, costume for Holloween, at least part of which I can wear  other times.  So, 
I wanted to make Butterick's costume pattern 4093 (a  circa 1914 gown and 
tunic with girdle), though it looks more 1920's because of  the dropped waist and 
such.  I've found fabric that I'm fairly sure that I  can use, in blue in 
this instance, but I'm having a problem finding the trim  that they call for: 
beaded ribbon, 8.5 yards of it.  Or, more specifically,  I can't find anything 
that looks nice and isn't as expensive as the stuff at  MJTrim, which seems to 
start at $20 per yard.  If I needed one yard, I'd be  fine, but I'd rather not 
spend $160 or so on trim!  Does anyone have any  suggested websites that sell 
beaded trim, or fabric stores in the Pittsburgh  area that sell it?
 
Thanks!
 
Christine
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From: "Cindy Abel" <brujne@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re:  Eleanor Dress???
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 16:48:31 -0500
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Is this gown, especially if original, displayed correctly? I don't recall
any 16th c European gowns being designed as off-the-shoulder. Janet Arnold's
reconstruction of Eleanor of Toledo's burial gown doesn't show it as such.
Also if a garment is displayed incorrectly, might it place undue stress on
old, fragile fabrics? Do correct me if I'm wrong.

Cindy Abel



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Bjarne,

Wow, just lovely. I think more museums should do this,
as space provides. It's just really nice to see
somthing "in the round" as it were.

I'd love to see the whole painting done as a tableau,
with furniture and all. Wouldn't that be exciting.

Cynthia

<<<<
Hi,
Finally finally my dress got its home at the old
manorhouse. They had 
made
such a fine platform in front of the portrait.
I am exhorsted, ben travelling forth and back in train
for 8 hours.
Anyway here are pictures as promised:



		
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Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 18:41:47 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: On lacing the GFD (aka Cotehardie)
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On Tue, 28 Sep 2004, Chris Laning wrote:

> I think Robin (who can correct me if I'm wrong!) is assuming that the
> "norm" is three layers:
> a. chemise,
> b. undergown (a GFD)
> c. overgown (a less structurally important GFD)

Yes, but "overgown" can be any of a number of shapes -- including a
sideless surcote.

> However, many people seem to think that the layers are:
> a. chemise,
> b. undergown (a GFD, but usually called a cotehardie)
> c. sideless surcote (which many people assume is a universal garment,
> and which I also wish people would quit referring to as simply "a
> sideless", BTW)

Better than calling it a "Gates of Hell." As a singular noun, no less.
Gaah.

> If the _real_ layers are:
> 1. chemise,
> 2. closely fitted GFD,
> 3. less closely fitted GFD,
> 4. (if any) sideless surcote
> 
> For people who see the surcote as a "normal" layer, I can see where
> they would call what is really layer 3 "the undergown." Since layer 3
> *can* sometimes have buttons, could this be the source of the
> confusion?

In this case, the person inquiring specified the "first/supportive layer,"
which would be layer 2 in that list no matter what.

I would not consider this four-layer combination typical or "real," at any
rate, though I sometimes see it in rather fanciful allegorical
representations of historic queens or saints, painted well after the
surcote was no longer "normal" wear in any regard. I suppose it may have
been worn by queens during the time when sideless surcotes were used as
royal ceremonial robes, in which case their presence as an extra layer
over the usual three would not have been out of the question.

But I don't think I've ever seen this four-layer combo done by
re-enactors, who are more likely to skip a layer than add one. Have you
seen it done?

--Robin


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: On lacing the GFD (aka Cotehardie)
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Robin wrote:
>> If the _real_ layers are:
>> 1. chemise,
>> 2. closely fitted GFD,
>> 3. less closely fitted GFD,
>> 4. (if any) sideless surcote
> 
>I would not consider this four-layer combination typical or "real," at any
>rate, though I sometimes see it in rather fanciful allegorical
>representations of historic queens or saints, painted well after the
>surcote was no longer "normal" wear in any regard. I suppose it may have
>been worn by queens during the time when sideless surcotes were used as
>royal ceremonial robes, in which case their presence as an extra layer
>over the usual three would not have been out of the question.
>
>But I don't think I've ever seen this four-layer combo done by
>re-enactors, who are more likely to skip a layer than add one. Have you
>seen it done?

Nope, I was just trying to imagine how something could be popularly regarded as an "undergown" -- after all, it IS under SOMEthing -- without being supportive. I missed the reference to something supportive. But what we appear to have instead is someone who hasn't seen the "right" <g> evidence. :)

____________________________________________________________
0  Chris Laning
|  <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
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Does anyone remember a website that was posted on this list a couple years ago that sold High End (read: expensive) Reproduction Royal Jewels, Tiara's and the like.  I believe it was from Europe.  If you know what I am talking about and have the website, could you please send it to me?

Thanks!
Kit
If you walk a mile in someone else's shoes, do you get to keep them? - Kenneth Cole

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Eleanor Dress???
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Does anyone know how long this will be dislpayed in Memphis? It's only a ~4
hr drive for me; might be worth it.

-E

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] My next frustration: belts & metalwork
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> I note that at least one vendor sells pewter findings for belts, including
> buckles:
>
> http://www.billyandcharlie.com/belt.html
>

There's also this place
http://www.fetteredcockpewters.com/
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] about japanese embroidery
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 20:47:36 -0400
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> There is the japanese embroidery center, wich i think is in Canada, not
sure
> here:
> http://www.japaneseembroidery.com/index.html

Actually, their address is
The Japanese Embroidery Center
2727 Spalding Drive, Dunwoody, GA 30350
They're in the U.S. Too bad. Nifty though.
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Subject: [h-cost] embroidered lotus slippers
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 	Do any of you know of embroidered lotus slippers for bound feet 
from before the 19th century?  I can find information about footbinding 
itself from way before that but haven't been able to find any hard 
evidence (either pictoral or documentary) for *embroidered* lotus shoes 
from before the 1800s.  I would guess that they were embroidered but have 
no real proof.  My focus right now is on the *embroidered* part; I've seen 
earlier paintings of women in tiny shoes but they're all plain.

thanks,
annora

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] My next frustration: belts & metalwork
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 22:11:52 -0400
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On Tuesday 28 September 2004 8:44 pm, Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:
> > I note that at least one vendor sells pewter findings for belts,
> > including buckles:
> >
> > http://www.billyandcharlie.com/belt.html
>
> There's also this place
> http://www.fetteredcockpewters.com/

True.  But I figured more list members would know about Fettered Cock Pewters, 
because their URL came up on the list not too long ago.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Eleanor Dress???
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It's only there til Sunday. The exhibit ends on October 3.

kate
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 28, 2004 8:37 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Eleanor Dress???


> Does anyone know how long this will be dislpayed in Memphis? It's
only a ~4
> hr drive for me; might be worth it.
>
> -E
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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On Tuesday 28 September 2004 7:48 pm, Kitsune242@aol.com wrote:
> Does anyone remember a website that was posted on this list a couple years
> ago that sold High End (read: expensive) Reproduction Royal Jewels, Tiara's
> and the like.  I believe it was from Europe.  If you know what I am talking
> about and have the website, could you please send it to me?

I'm not sure, but it sure sounds like Carl Lemke's site:


http://www.signetring.com/Coronet/coronet.htm


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Historical/inspired Hallow'een costumes
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At 10:28 PM 9/27/2004 -0400, you wrote:
> > This is the image of Edward IV as a toddler (Hans Holbein, 1539)
> > http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Edward3.jpg
>
>Wow, that's exactly like the Simplicity pattern for toddlers that came out
>last year! I'm sure they got their inspiration there!


I believe it was, but made simpler. Simplicity dropped the hanging sleeves, 
and the skirt is shorter (knee length) than I believe young boys skirts 
were (ankle/floor length). They also made the chemise a part of the bodice, 
and dropped the chemise ruffle around the wrists. That is why I am making 
it in two parts (chemise and overgown), not to mention being able to just 
wear the chemise when it is hot, and to keep things cleaner.

I am not sure if I am going to actually make piping or use simple trim for 
the gold trimmed areas of the overgown. I am also debating how to do the 
hat set. The pattern has it all attached as one, which would work for 
keeping such a hat on a toddler's active head.

Kimiko


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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidered lotus slippers
Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2004 00:18:34 -0400
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On Tuesday 28 September 2004 9:06 pm, lisa wrote:
>  	Do any of you know of embroidered lotus slippers for bound feet
> from before the 19th century?  I can find information about footbinding
> itself from way before that but haven't been able to find any hard
> evidence (either pictoral or documentary) for *embroidered* lotus shoes
> from before the 1800s.  I would guess that they were embroidered but have
> no real proof.  My focus right now is on the *embroidered* part; I've seen
> earlier paintings of women in tiny shoes but they're all plain.

Though in the paintings, the feet are such a small percentage of the figure 
that it would be hard to depict embroidery....

Given the materials out of which lotus shoes were made, one would expect 
survivals of examples more than 200 years old to be very rare.

Dorothy Ko's book, "Every Step a Lotus"  (Univ. of Cal. Press 2001; ISBN 
0-921638-14-0 clothbound; 0-921638-15-9 paper) shows a black and white photo 
of shoes found in a 12th c queen's grave that were definitely embroidered.  
They are not lotus shoes because they are a normal length (9 in.) but they 
have cloth uppers and hemp soles and otherwise look similar to lotus shoes.  
Ko also shows a photo of a pair of shoes from the tomb of the Ming emperor 
Wanli (reigned 1573-1620 CE) that have cylindrical heels the way some lotus 
shoes do and are only 4 3/4 inches long--definitely lotus country.

 Ko also mentions the grave of a Lady Huang (1227-1243 CE) who was buried with 
six pair of shoes, among other things (there were supposedly lots of textile 
finds in the grave, which Ko doesn't talk about darn it), all of which were 
about 5 inches long.  It's not clear from the text if any of those were 
embroidered, though, and the one pair of which a photo appears in the text 
merely has a "printed gold plum-blossom motif" around the foot opening.

Ko's book may not definitively answer your question (all the color photos 
appear to be 20th or at most 19th c shoes, mostly embroidered) but it's a fun 
read and the photos are gorgeous.  I haven't checked, but possibly some of 
the sources in her bibliography may be of some use if you can track them 
down.  Good luck!

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Historical/inspired Hallow'een costumes
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At 04:53 PM 9/27/2004 +0100, you wrote:
>The boy's costume is in lishtish green brocade with rust trim, rust
>brocade trunk-hose sleeves and hat (yes, I know in period the skirts
>would have been floor-length and there would have been no trunk hose,
>but it's just so cute as it is!) .

Hi Teddy,

That sounds so cute with the siblings. I am glad for one that a boy is 
given a doll to play with, and that the doll continues in life with the sister.

On the boy's outfit, did you actually make the trunk-hose? The picture 
shows the child in tights, so I didn't even think of actually making trunk 
hose, until you mentioned it. I am planning for ankle length overgown, with 
a deep hem so I can keep up with his growth spurts. The overgown my son 
wore as a baby (at floor length), he still wears, although it is closer to 
knee length now. It's the chemise that got too tight, right under the armpits.

Kimiko


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Semi-OT: Beaded Trim
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Have you looked in the bridal section for beaded trim?

De
-----Original Message-----
I second the recommendation for Cheeptrims.com. I order from them on a
regular basis and I am always satisfied by my purchases. The prices are also
very good- you have to order in bulk, but with the costumes I make, I use
the trim in bulk so it works out nicely.



Karen


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidered lotus slippers
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> Dorothy Ko's book, "Every Step a Lotus"  (Univ. of Cal. Press 2001; ISBN
> 0-921638-14-0 clothbound; 0-921638-15-9 paper) shows a black and white photo

 	Yep, I've read this book--it's the main thing that got me 
wondering in the first place.  As you mentioned, there are suggestions of 
possibilities but no definitives.  And you're right, the pictures are 
gorgeous :).

annora
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Semi-OT: Beaded Trim
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In a message dated 9/28/2004 4:49:13 PM Eastern Daylight Time,  
seamstrix@juno.com writes:

I second  the recommendation for Cheeptrims.com. I order from them on a 
regular basis  and I am always satisfied by my purchases. The prices are also very 
good- you  have to order in bulk, but with the costumes I make, I use the trim 
in bulk so  it works out nicely. 


 
You know, I'd looked at cheeptrims...apparently I missed the  perfect (or at 
least, as close to perfect as I'm going to get without spending  $50 a yard!) 
trim the first go-round.  Problem: I'd always heard that their  minimum order 
was $40, but now it's $65.  On the other hand, Denver Fabrics  has the same 
trim...for $32, whereas at CheepTrims it's $16.  So I either  need to pay the 
$32 (for 10 yards- it's pre-cut from both stores, but that  doesn't bother me 
since it means I get wiggle-room), or find more  trim!
 
Thank you, everyone, for your help.  Now I get to ponder  whether I can 
afford to go nuts over more trim (let's see, what else is on my  plate?), or if I 
should just..ow..pay twice the price but less than  $65.
 
Christine
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Semi-OT: Beaded Trim
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Hello from an old member who is back again  I am busy with five kids,  so do 
not often post to the list but hugely enjoy reading the messages.
 
I bought this pattern for myself, and searched high and low for this 2"  wide 
beaded ribbon trim, with absolutely no luck.  I did internet searches  and 
also looked in several fabric stores.  The only thing that I could find  that 
was even close was scandalously expensive for what I wanted to use the  outfit 
for.  Now, if I had been planning to wear it for a formal wedding,  maybe I 
might have spent the money, but just to waar to a Navy  Ball....nah.  I still 
have the pattern in my box, and maybe someday when I  find a trim that is not 
going to bankrupt me, I will make it.
 
:)
 
Kimberley
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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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It means that in the UK too - I checked it in a couple of dictionaries.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> glendar@compassnet.com.au 28/09/2004 04:15:16 >>>
Interesting. Over here SAE means stamped addressed envelope. However,
that
would only work within a country, as the postage and currency vary.

I'd confirm with them, Bjarne.

Glenda.
----- Original Message ----- 

>
> S.A.E is for 'self addressed envelope'.
>
>
>
> Dawn
>



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From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: RE:[h-cost] Historical/inspired Hallow'een costumes
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> At 04:53 PM 9/27/2004 +0100, you wrote:
> >The boy's costume is in lishtish green brocade with rust trim, rust 
> >brocade trunk-hose sleeves and hat (yes, I know in period the skirts 
> >would have been floor-length and there would have been no trunk hose,

> >but it's just so cute as it is!) .

Hi

> On the boy's outfit, did you actually make the trunk-hose?  The
picture 
> shows the child in tights, so I didn't even think of actually making
trunk 
> hose, until you mentioned it. 

I did, byt they are a cheat - I have often thought that those baby
knickers that go over nappies (the baggy ones with the elasticated waist
and legs) look like trunk-hose, so I made a pair of those in the same
fabric as the sleeves and hat - that way, if it gets hot he can run
around in his shirt, tights and trunk hose and leave off the main gown
(the hat stays on only long enough to snap the occasional phot beofr he
pulls it off!)

> I am planning for ankle length overgown, with  a deep hem so I can
keep up with his
> growth spurts.

That's what I did with the little girl's one.  Normally I'd have doen it
for the boy too, but wanted to try out the trunk hose idea - and they do
show under the shorter gown when he's playing.

> The overgown my son  wore as a baby (at floor length), he still wears,
> although it  is closer to knee length now. 

A friend did this for her son when he was small (he must ba about 16
now) and when he finally outgrew it width-wise, it had a band of
fabricsewn on to lengthen the skirts and was passed down to his younger
sister.

> It's the chemise that got too tight, right under the armpits.  

yep, and with garments that small, it's often quicker and easier to make
new ones than unpuck and set in gussets under the arms.

Teddy
(currently altering several outgrown gowns for a ten year old - thank
goodness I made them with ten-inch hems and very wide side-seam
allowances.  Now, if she only hadn't *lost* the sleeves that go with two
of them!)

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Eleanor Dress - Attended Exhibit
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The exhibit is really interesting - I had the opportunity to see it and 
recommend it highly.  They have approximately 200 items on display, covering the 
culture of the period through a number of types of art, not just painting.  I've 
been trying for a while to find the notes that I took. The two items that I 
found the most fascinating were the Eleanor of Toledo dress and a scrap of the 
bloody shirt of Giuliano de' Medici (assassinated in 1478).  Other really 
interesting items included a hair shirt of Savonarola's, slippers that came from 
the Casa Buonarotti and that may have belonged to Michaelangelo, and part of an 
18th century dress.

The picture on the website is actually better than the one in the catalog 
(very grainy picture) although the catalog has a full-length picture.  
Unfortunately, due to the agreements with the museums that loaned items, no photos are 
allowed in the exhibit.  The catalog (which my house seems to have eaten) 
mentions that a portrait of Eleanor wearing the dress is in one of the museums in 
Pisa (I think).  At the time I got the catalog I tried to find a picture of it 
online but had no luck.

As previously noted, the Eleanor dress was on a statue in a church for many 
years before being put away for safe keeping.  It was "rediscovered" in 1995 
and has since been restored.  It appeared to be in remarkably good shape, 
particularly in comparison to the grave clothes featured in Arnold, which it greatly 
resembles.  The back skirt has been replaced with similar red velvet but it 
has some of the embroidered guards missing at the bottom.  Conservation work 
has been done on some of the guards on the bodice, and there is netting helping 
to preserve some of them.  It was certainly presented as an original and 
presumably the church would have had records of receiving it or at least the 
tradition of who had presented it.  

The dress is not really off the shoulder but does rest at the edge of the 
shoulders.  I don't know how it was mounted, exactly, but based on my 
conversation with one of the museum staff, a number of the items were mounted with the 
assistance of representatives from the "home" museum.  The Wonders exhibits have 
a good reputation internationally and have been able to borrow some 
significant items over the years.  Presumably the items were mounted with an eye to 
preservation.

The scrap of shirt was almost more fascinating than the dress.  It was from 
the top of the shirt and was presented folded over on itself so that the front 
and back were visible.  Very tiny gathereing threads were still visible 
holding the pleats in place.  On the front it appeared that there had been some 
trim, either embroidery or applique, originally present as evidenced by a pattern 
of discoloration.  On the back the tape holding the pleats in place (something 
I had speculated about) was still present!  I could not tell what the edge 
treatment was exactly as the fabric and the stitching were so fine.

If anyone has other questions, I will try to remember more.  I also have 
friends in Memphis, including one who was helping with the exhibit.  She may be 
able to get additional information.

Nancy
(Maddalena Salutati)
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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2004 11:44:39 +0200
From: Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Website
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Do you mean this one?
http://www.countalexander.com/

Greetings,
       Deredere

Kitsune242@aol.com wrote:

>Does anyone remember a website that was posted on this list a couple years ago that sold High End (read: expensive) Reproduction Royal Jewels, Tiara's and the like.  I believe it was from Europe.  If you know what I am talking about and have the website, could you please send it to me?
>
>Thanks!
>Kit
>If you walk a mile in someone else's shoes, do you get to keep them? - Kenneth Cole
>
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>  
>

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Sep 29 05:51:15 2004
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Hi,

For every one who like my site and/or has links to my site.
I changed the site from name and adress.
This was the old one
Medieval and Renaissance costumes and archery
http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade/index.html

And this is the new one
Historical and Fantasy costumes
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Index.html

Greetings,
       Deredere

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> I'm certain they are good shoes.  I can not determine construction
quality 
> or type with the photos I've seen (which is not a bad thing). This is
why I 
> said I wasn't really in a position to judge them
> 
> They do, however, appear to be made on a modern last - or at least not
on a 
> 15th century last (agian, not a complaint, since right now I'm not
sure 
> anyone is making shoes on medieval style lasts except me right now,
but I 
> hope to get that to change.

As to that, I couldn't comment since I wouldn't know a period last from
a modern one. 

Teddy
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>
> Does anyone know how long this will be dislpayed in Memphis? It's only a ~4
> hr drive for me; might be worth it.

Saturday or Sunday is the last day.  I was hoping to drive, but am not
going to make it.  If you go, I might let you get me a catalog .....

Susan/ Jerusha
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Semi-OT: Beaded Trim
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On Wednesday 29 September 2004 1:55 am, IceGirlNIN@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 9/28/2004 4:49:13 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> seamstrix@juno.com writes:
[snip]
> You know, I'd looked at cheeptrims...apparently I missed the  perfect (or
> at least, as close to perfect as I'm going to get without spending  $50 a
> yard!) trim the first go-round.  Problem: I'd always heard that their 
> minimum order was $40, but now it's $65.

It *was* still $40 this summer, when I was considering a purchase.  Perhaps a 
recent increase?

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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On Wednesday 29 September 2004 1:37 am, lisa wrote:
> > Dorothy Ko's book, "Every Step a Lotus"  (Univ. of Cal. Press 2001; ISBN
> > 0-921638-14-0 clothbound; 0-921638-15-9 paper) shows a black and white
> > photo
>
>  	Yep, I've read this book--it's the main thing that got me
> wondering in the first place.  As you mentioned, there are suggestions of
> possibilities but no definitives.  

I haven't looked back at my copy of "Splendid Slippers" yet, though I don't 
expect it to be any better.


> And you're right, the pictures are 
> gorgeous :).

Indeed. 

By the way, I did a websearch when I saw your original post, trying to find 
instances of pre-1800 embroidered lotus shoes and was surprised not to find 
any, though I turned up a number of 19th c. ones.



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2004 07:54:38 -0500
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Semi-OT: Beaded Trim
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That's when you get together with a couple of your closest costuming
friends and combine orders so you only pay for what you want, yet can
make the $65 minimum.....  ;-)


Karen



On Wed, 29 Sep 2004 01:55:53 EDT IceGirlNIN@aol.com writes:
>  
> You know, I'd looked at cheeptrims...apparently I missed the  
> perfect (or at 
> least, as close to perfect as I'm going to get without spending  $50 
> a yard!) 
> trim the first go-round.  Problem: I'd always heard that their  
> minimum order 
> was $40, but now it's $65.  On the other hand, Denver Fabrics  has 
> the same 
> trim...for $32, whereas at CheepTrims it's $16.  So I either  need 
> to pay the 
> $32 (for 10 yards- it's pre-cut from both stores, but that  doesn't 
> bother me 
> since it means I get wiggle-room), or find more  trim!

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>There's also this one
www.countalexander.com
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 23:01:29 -0400
> From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Website
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <200409282301.29256.cathy@thyrsus.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;  charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> On Tuesday 28 September 2004 7:48 pm, Kitsune242@aol.com wrote:
> > Does anyone remember a website that was posted on this list a couple
years
> > ago that sold High End (read: expensive) Reproduction Royal Jewels,
Tiara's
> > and the like.  I believe it was from Europe.  If you know what I am
talking
> > about and have the website, could you please send it to me?
>
> I'm not sure, but it sure sounds like Carl Lemke's site:
>
>
> http://www.signetring.com/Coronet/coronet.htm
>
>
> -- 
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>
> "Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue
> that counts."--Winston Churchill
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
>>

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From: "Cindy Abel" <brujne@creighton.edu>
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Bjarne:

Your dress is just stunningly beautiful. You should be very proud.  Did you
copy it from a portrait, existing gown, or a published scale pattern?  If
you devised with your own pattern, you should publish it as such a dress
would make a gorgeous wedding dress.

Cindy Abel

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Friday, September 24, 2004 3:00 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] my dress on museum


Hi,
Finally finally my dress got its home at the old manorhouse. They had made
such a fine platform in front of the portrait.
I am exhorsted, ben travelling forth and back in train for 8 hours.
Anyway here are pictures as promised:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/estrup3.htm

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Sheryl Nance-Durst <sherylnd@kc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] about japanese embroidery
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Thanks Bjarne!

Sheryl N-D

At 04:15 PM 9/28/04 +0200, you wrote:
>Hi,
>There is the japanese embroidery center, wich i think is in Canada, not sure
>here:
>http://www.japaneseembroidery.com/index.html
>And then there is a USA provider wich runs more than 300 colours,
>gosh...........
>http://www.shaypendray.com/Pages/JEPages/JEsilkcolor2.html



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On Wednesday 29 September 2004 10:09 am, Alexia S. Jacobs wrote:
> >There's also this one
>
> www.countalexander.com

Yow.  That's definitely higher-ticket than Carl Lemke's line.  :-)

It's also geared toward a later period, though.  Count Alexander's stuff seems 
to run from 18th c to Edwardian, and Lemke's biggest concentration of jewels 
is Renaissance.  I guess it depends what period the original inquirer is 
looking for.

However, I'm glad to have seen Count Alexander's site.  I can't afford 
anything there right now, but it's impressive.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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Hi,
I found the same center in England, and they carry 250 colour shades.
It comes in 60 meter reels and it costs 4.20 pounds.
So i guess i have to spoil myself again.......... sigh
It is a luck that i earn my own money, dont have an expensive car nor
children to feed.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidered lotus slippers
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> On Tuesday 28 September 2004 9:06 pm, lisa wrote:
> >  Do any of you know of embroidered lotus slippers for bound feet
> > from before the 19th century?  I can find information about footbinding
> > itself from way before that but haven't been able to find any hard
> > evidence (either pictoral or documentary) for *embroidered* lotus shoes
> > from before the 1800s.  I would guess that they were embroidered but
have
> > no real proof.  My focus right now is on the *embroidered* part; I've
seen
> > earlier paintings of women in tiny shoes but they're all plain.
>
Hi,
A book i baught recently, "Chinese Embroidery" Traditional Teckniques , has
lovely colour photographs of Lotus shoes. They are all embroidered, and they
are 19th century and onwards to the present days where they are sold for
turists.
Lovely embroideries.
The early ones are embroidered, but made to look like brokade.
Bjarne


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Subject: [h-cost] dyeing Silk Chenille
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Hi,
I tryed recently to dye some of the silk chenille thread i am going to use
for embroidery on the next projekt. I used the same colours as i dyed my
silk ribbons.
However i was not satisfied with the result. The thread got two hard and the
dye varied two much, making some ugly black small spots.
So today i used ordinary Dylon, and gosh, it was much better. I have used
the Chrimson colour, and i varied the time for the threads, some just got
dipped and then washed out emediately to get a light shade and so on.
This i really would recomend others who wants to try.
Though same shade of colour, i got many many varieties of colour, and it is
just gorgeous.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] my dress on museum
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cindy Abel" <brujne@creighton.edu>
>
> Your dress is just stunningly beautiful. You should be very proud.  Did
you
> copy it from a portrait, existing gown, or a published scale pattern?  If
> you devised with your own pattern, you should publish it as such a dress
> would make a gorgeous wedding dress.


Hi Cindy,
Didnt you notice the portrait in the background?
This is a dress i made after the portrait in the background.
This is why i got it exhibited there!
Thanks for liking it!
Bjarne


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: 15thC shoe sellers?
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>From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
>As to that, I couldn't comment since I wouldn't know a period last from
>a modern one.

Why heck, a medieval last is darker and grottier from having been in the 
ground for centuries :)

Seriously, you are certainly not alone in that, but it's something I'd like 
to see changed.  I mean - can you imagine a maker of repro armor using 
modern helmet shapes to make "period" helms and helmets?

Marc

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: 15thC shoe sellers?
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
To: h costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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> From: Marc Carlson <marccarlson20@hotmail.com>
> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2004 11:04:31 -0500
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] Re: 15thC shoe sellers?
> 
>> From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
>> As to that, I couldn't comment since I wouldn't know a period last from
>> a modern one.
> 
> Why heck, a medieval last is darker and grottier from having been in the
> ground for centuries :)
> 
> Seriously, you are certainly not alone in that, but it's something I'd like
> to see changed.  I mean - can you imagine a maker of repro armor using
> modern helmet shapes to make "period" helms and helmets?
> 
> Marc

So, Mark, is there a way to use a medieval last and still have the modern
left and right lasts?

LynnD


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: 15thC shoe sellers? & belt stuff
Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2004 12:06:29 -0500
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By the way, thanks all for the great suggestions on both shoes and
belt/pmc/pewter stuff. I'm still sorting through all the responses I've
gotten on both this and another list!

-E

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] My dress on museum
Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2004 20:12:45 +0200
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ms Cynthia Schrage" <pioneercynthia@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 2004 1:10 AM
Subject: [h-cost] My dress on museum


> Bjarne,
>
> Wow, just lovely. I think more museums should do this,
> as space provides. It's just really nice to see
> somthing "in the round" as it were.
>
> I'd love to see the whole painting done as a tableau,
> with furniture and all. Wouldn't that be exciting.
>
> Cynthia

Hello,
The portrait is painted with a landscape background, you can se the castle
to the right, far away, so there are no furnitures. I think it is just a
little fantasy the painter made with the castle as the only real thing. Even
the wall hanging cloth, would be the painters imagination.
The curator emailed me and told me that they had a curator visit from
Finland. They have a museum with Golden Age paintings (19th century) and
they have often invited costume makers to try and recreate some of the
portrait costumes.

She was very impressed, and also said it was a very fine way to show the
public, how they dressed in those days.

Bjarne



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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Sep 29 14:45:43 2004
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Fancy embroidered satin...
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Oh MY
I just went into Joanns and cruised the dress cloth section. They 
have the most loverly embroidered heavy satins. I have no clue if the 
patterns are appropriate for any period, but they are beyouuuutiful!!!
TTa
Carol, who just loves to look at pretties!!!
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] My dress on museum
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In a message dated 9/29/2004 2:15:45 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

> I'd love to see the whole painting done as a tableau,
> >with furniture and all. Wouldn't that be exciting.
> 

At the Met Museum in NYC, as you may well know, the Costume Institute has 
been chopped down to a tiny space by the new [and incredible and wonderful] 
cafeteria. They also haven't had a decent curator since Diane Vreeland, IMHO.

But someone in the period furnishings department has brought the costume 
department into its space and did a show called "Dangerous Liaisons" where you 
wander [like a fly on the wall] through furnished and dressed [in the set 
dressing sense....dishes, cards, vases, firescreens, etc] with mannequins dressed in 
period clothes....and engaging in intrigue, if not common 18th century 
practices. There's a lady getting her hair dressed, card players, a fainter in the 
salon and amorous encounters in the parlor and in the sleeping chamber. There 
are gentlemen, ladies, servants, and even a dog... The lighting was realistic 
and wonderful [even if dim, due to necessity].

I don't know if it's still up but I hope it opens up a whole new cooperation 
with the costume institute. Imagine what the period musical interments 
department [another one of my favorite places] could do! Imagine recreating some of 
the paintings in the 19th century French section.
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interments = instruments

Though a musical interment might not be so bad....depending on the music.
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From: lisa <lisleong@k12.hi.us>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidered lotus slippers
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> I haven't looked back at my copy of "Splendid Slippers" yet, though I don't
> expect it to be any better.

 	*sigh* It's not.  Like Ko, the pictures are beautiful but they and 
the accompanying shoe information are 19th and 20th century.

> By the way, I did a websearch when I saw your original post, trying to find
> instances of pre-1800 embroidered lotus shoes and was surprised not to find
> any, though I turned up a number of 19th c. ones.

 	I've searched too.  I haven't been able to find anything either on 
the web or in books and my local university library has quite an extensive 
Asia/Pacific collection.  Maybe journal articles?

annora
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Sep 29 15:44:59 2004
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At Hancock's last night, they had a large assortment of beaded trims, 2" - 4" 
long, in the $6.99 - $7.99 range. Seems to be kind of a "fad" there right now 
- might be worth a check. I don't know if they have a website.

~Cait

In a message dated 9/29/2004 12:54:36 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:


> You know, I'd looked at cheeptrims...apparently I missed the  perfect (or 
> at 
> least, as close to perfect as I'm going to get without spending  $50 a 
> yard!) 
> trim the first go-round.  Problem: I'd always heard that their  minimum 
> order 
> was $40, but now it's $65.  On the other hand, Denver Fabrics  has the same 
> trim...for $32, whereas at CheepTrims it's $16.  So I either  need to pay 
> the 
> $32 (for 10 yards- it's pre-cut from both stores, but that  doesn't bother 
> me 
> since it means I get wiggle-room), or find more  trim!
> 
> Thank you, everyone, for your help.  Now I get to ponder  whether I can 
> afford to go nuts over more trim (let's see, what else is on my  plate?), or 
> if I 
> should just..ow..pay twice the price but less than  $65.
> 
> Christine

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Sep 29 15:49:41 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidered lotus slippers
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
To: h costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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There was a recent Threads or Piecework article on lotus slippers. It was
short and I don't remember when the shoes were produced. Really lovely
embroidery, however.

Good luck in your search.
LynnD



> From: lisa <lisleong@k12.hi.us>
> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2004 09:15:59 -1000 (HST)
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidered lotus slippers
> 
>> I haven't looked back at my copy of "Splendid Slippers" yet, though I don't
>> expect it to be any better.
> 
> *sigh* It's not.  Like Ko, the pictures are beautiful but they and
> the accompanying shoe information are 19th and 20th century.
> 
>> By the way, I did a websearch when I saw your original post, trying to find
>> instances of pre-1800 embroidered lotus shoes and was surprised not to find
>> any, though I turned up a number of 19th c. ones.
> 
> I've searched too.  I haven't been able to find anything either on
> the web or in books and my local university library has quite an extensive
> Asia/Pacific collection.  Maybe journal articles?
> 
> annora
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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At Hancock's last night, they had a large assortment of beaded trims, 2" - 4" 
long, in the $6.99 - $7.99 range. Seems to be kind of a "fad" there right now 
- might be worth a check. I don't know if they have a website.

~Cait

In a message dated 9/29/2004 12:54:36 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:


> You know, I'd looked at cheeptrims...apparently I missed the  perfect (or 
> at 
> least, as close to perfect as I'm going to get without spending  $50 a 
> yard!) 
> trim the first go-round.  Problem: I'd always heard that their  minimum 
> order 
> was $40, but now it's $65.  On the other hand, Denver Fabrics  has the same 
> trim...for $32, whereas at CheepTrims it's $16.  So I either  need to pay 
> the 
> $32 (for 10 yards- it's pre-cut from both stores, but that  doesn't bother 
> me 
> since it means I get wiggle-room), or find more  trim!
> 
> Thank you, everyone, for your help.  Now I get to ponder  whether I can 
> afford to go nuts over more trim (let's see, what else is on my  plate?), or 
> if I 
> should just..ow..pay twice the price but less than  $65.
> 
> Christine

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Sep 29 16:06:55 2004
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Reminder, DC lectures
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The person who's arranging my lecture trip to Washington, D.C. on Oct. 16
tells me there are about 15 spaces left.

I'll be giving a full day of lectures, covering the Gothic fitted dress,
the Greenland gored gown, the 15th-century V-necked gown (Burgundian), the
Victorian influence on costume sources, and women's heraldic dress.
Information is at http://www.oakenstaff.org/netherton/ .

Feel free to forward this to other people/lists that might be interested.

--Robin

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>From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
>So, Mark, is there a way to use a medieval last and still have the modern
>left and right lasts?

Who do you think invented rights and lefts? :)  Straights are virtually 
unheard of in medieval lasts.

Marc

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Subject: [h-cost] clarification on beaded trim 
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The pattern in question (Butterick 4093, Misses tunic, gown and girdle,  
C1914) calls for 8.5 yards of 1.75" wide beaded ribbon.  It is not a  fringe, but 
rather an embroidered, beaded ribbon that lays flat.  I have  searched high 
and low for something like what is on the pattern cover, with zero  luck.  I am 
not sure of what I will use as a substitute.  Yeah, I  could bead plain ribbon 
to go on the edge of the tunic, but somehow it is not  exactly a high 
priority right now.
 
It really aggravates me when  a pattern (and we are not talking Vogue  here 
either) calls for something that is nowhere to be found.  
 
~Kimberley
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Fancy embroidered satin...
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "fastusminimus" <cahuff@mindspring.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 2004 2:43 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Fancy embroidered satin...


> Oh MY
> I just went into Joanns and cruised the dress cloth section. They 
> have the most loverly embroidered heavy satins. I have no clue if the 
> patterns are appropriate for any period, but they are beyouuuutiful!!!

Carol

Which JoAnn's? Lancaster or York?

Dianne
> TTa
> Carol, who just loves to look at pretties!!!
> -- 
> Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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She's actually a re-make, but I thought I'd share :)
YOu can see her and read the gory details here:
http://www.livejournal.com/users/jauncourt/49944.html

Maura
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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2004 16:38:58 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: h-costume Digest, Vol 3, Issue 791
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So the Victorians in their properness unlearned right/left? Go figure.
LynnD


> From: Marc Carlson <marccarlson20@hotmail.com>
> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Wed, 29 Sep 2004 15:05:22 -0500
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] RE: h-costume Digest, Vol 3, Issue 791
> 
>> From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
>> So, Mark, is there a way to use a medieval last and still have the modern
>> left and right lasts?
> 
> Who do you think invented rights and lefts? :)  Straights are virtually
> unheard of in medieval lasts.
> 
> Marc
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to
> get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement
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On Wed, 29 Sep 2004, Lynn Downward wrote:

> So the Victorians in their properness unlearned right/left? Go figure.

I remember visiting the shoemaker's shop at Colonial Williamsburg in, hmm,
the mid-1970s, and hearing there that "in the old days" shoes were
straight, not right-left. The advantage to this, they said, was not only
that they were easier to make, but that you could get more wear from the
shoes by alternating which feet you wore them on, on a daily basis.
 
I incorrectly assumed it had always been that way beforehand, so was much
surprised to find out that medieval shoes were in fact right-left
differentiated. Someone later told me that the shift to undifferentiated
shoes occurred in the Colonial U.S. because of the expense of shipping
lasts from Europe -- they opted for straights so they needed ship only
half as many. I'm not sure that rings true. Wouldn't there have to have
been straight lasts already in Europe in order to have any to ship in the
first place? Wouldn't the original Colonial shoemakers have been trained
to do differentiated shoes, and would consider those better, and thus
eventually make their own lasts, or ship more when possible? I would love
it if someone could give us the real scoop on this.

--Robin

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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:  Eleanor Dress???
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cindy Abel" <brujne@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 2004 7:48 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Eleanor Dress???


> Is this gown, especially if original, displayed correctly? I don't recall
> any 16th c European gowns being designed as off-the-shoulder. Janet
Arnold's
> reconstruction of Eleanor of Toledo's burial gown doesn't show it as such.
> Also if a garment is displayed incorrectly, might it place undue stress on
> old, fragile fabrics? Do correct me if I'm wrong.
>
> Cindy Abel

I'm pretty sure It's one of those sitting on the point of the shoulder type
dresses, like you seen in 1540s Tudor portraits or later Italian portraits
(or venetian at least, I don't know much about other city states' fashions)
It's not really off the shoulder in the way that Victorian ballgowns were
but it is a very wide neckline. These old fragile fabrics are probably being
assisted by modern fabrics so they are not placed under any avoidable
stress.
Elizabeth
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
Elizabeth Beaumont              Elizabeth Walpole
             in                         OR                 in
Politarchopolis, Lochac        Canberra, Australia
             ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au

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Subject: [h-cost] Re:Fancy Satins...
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At 6:49 PM -0600 9/29/04, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>  > Oh MY
>>  I just went into Joanns and cruised the dress cloth section. They
>>  have the most loverly embroidered heavy satins. I have no clue if the
>>  patterns are appropriate for any period, but they are beyouuuutiful!!!
>
>Carol
>
>Which JoAnn's? Lancaster or York?

Belair MD--we live in the deep south of YoCo....
Ta
Carol
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] embroidered lotus slippers
Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2004 00:24:52 -0400
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On Wednesday 29 September 2004 3:15 pm, lisa wrote:
[snip]
> > By the way, I did a websearch when I saw your original post, trying to
> > find instances of pre-1800 embroidered lotus shoes and was surprised not
> > to find any, though I turned up a number of 19th c. ones.
>
>  	I've searched too.  I haven't been able to find anything either on
> the web or in books and my local university library has quite an extensive
> Asia/Pacific collection.  Maybe journal articles?

I don't know what, if any, the professional journals are in this area of 
costume history, but there is an avenue you can pursue.

There appears to be a significant market for collectors of high-priced and 
genuine Asian antiques, artifacts, and antiquities in general.  I know of at 
least two periodicals aimed at this market, because used copies turn up at 
60% off at a used bookstore I frequent.  The periodicals are called 
"Orientations" and "Arts of Asia".  They're expensive (AofA retails at $12.50 
an issue and Orientations is similar) and the ratio of advertisements to 
articles is high, but the articles are usually well-written and informative 
and come accompanied by oodles of excellent photographs, most of which are in 
full, living color.  Most of the articles are about furnishings, paintings or 
sculpture, but occasionally they feature an article about textiles or 
costume.  (When I do, I usually buy the issue.  Both publications sell back 
issues until they run out of copies, but they do so at full price--unlike my 
friendly book store.)  :-)

I have Volume 27 Issue No. 2 (March-April 1997) of AofA here before me.  The 
cover article is on lotus shoes, and features many photos of a particular 
collector's lotus shoe collection.  With regard to your immediate objective 
this article does not advance the ball (there are a number of pairs of shoes 
from the "mid-to late 19th c" and several "mid-19th c" but that's as good as 
it gets).  However, there's a bibliography to this article with several 
sources I've never heard of that might be worth exploring further if you have 
sufficient interest (I admit I do not, at this point in time).  I will 
photocopy the bibliography and even the article (though no photocopy will do 
the pictures justice) if you're interested; just send me details by private 
email.

The publisher of Orientations sells books on subjects of interest to its 
subscribers who can buy them for a special price) .  Their prices average $65 
per book and up.  In addition, I've seen ads for a company called Paragon 
Book Gallery 

http://webart.com/paragonbook/ 

that also sells books about Asian art/textile/costume subjects. The site may 
be worth exploring.  Again, Paragon's stock isn't cheap, but if there's 
something relevant that's in print they may well have it.

Good luck, and let us know if you find an answer!

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] clarification on beaded trim 
Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2004 00:13:24 -0500
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Wal-Mart in my area [MO] has some beaded trim. It came out about the same
time as the pattern. I think though they are slowly phasing them out.
What I have seen left is black with silver embroidery and gold beads, $3.49
a yd.
It will take a bit longer but you can use the sheer embroidered ribbon and
add some beads.

De

-----Original Message-----
The pattern in question (Butterick 4093, Misses tunic, gown and girdle,
C1914) calls for 8.5 yards of 1.75" wide beaded ribbon.  It is not a
fringe, but
rather an embroidered, beaded ribbon that lays flat.  I have  searched high
and low for something like what is on the pattern cover, with zero  luck.  I
am
not sure of what I will use as a substitute.  Yeah, I  could bead plain
ribbon
to go on the edge of the tunic, but somehow it is not  exactly a high
priority right now.

It really aggravates me when  a pattern (and we are not talking Vogue  here
either) calls for something that is nowhere to be found.

~Kimberley

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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: h-costume Digest, Vol 3, Issue 791
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Victorians? We were wearing straight-lasted shoes in the 17th century. I
don't know what the dates of transition from R/L to straight and back
again were - anyone?

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> ldownward@chori.org 30/09/2004 00:38:58 >>>
So the Victorians in their properness unlearned right/left? Go figure.
LynnD



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:Fancy Satins...
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "fastusminimus" <cahuff@mindspring.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 2004 9:15 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re:Fancy Satins...
> >Which JoAnn's? Lancaster or York?
> 
> Belair MD--we live in the deep south of YoCo....
> Ta
> Carol

Well, pooo.  ;-)

Dianne

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Subject: [h-cost] embroidered shoes
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I checked Piecework for the lotus shoe article and found instead, an article on Chinese children's boots and booties that might be of interest. It can be found in the Sept/Oct 2004 issue.  As always, they include a project using the technique.  There is also a spread on Embroidered Icons (Russian) .

Kathleen
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] FO: 18th c. Fashion baby
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Hi Maura,
Oh what a lovely doll and dress you made here! It is just after my heart,
love it!
Did you make the doll also?
It is gorgeous
Thanks for letting me have a look.........

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Maura Folsom" <jauncourt@verizon.net>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 30, 2004 1:37 AM
Subject: [h-cost] FO: 18th c. Fashion baby


> She's actually a re-make, but I thought I'd share :)
> YOu can see her and read the gory details here:
> http://www.livejournal.com/users/jauncourt/49944.html
>
> Maura
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	<005801c4a687$093ffa00$3691d6cb@ewalpole>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:  Eleanor Dress???
Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2004 16:21:48 +0200
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Hi,
Yes i remembered a picture of an elderly lady standing on a balconny in such
a dress. I have it in one of my books, but i dont recall now who painted it,
and who it was going to portraied.
I think as i recall her dress being blue!

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 2004 2:28 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Eleanor Dress???


>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Cindy Abel" <brujne@creighton.edu>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 2004 7:48 AM
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Eleanor Dress???
>
>
> > Is this gown, especially if original, displayed correctly? I don't
recall
> > any 16th c European gowns being designed as off-the-shoulder. Janet
> Arnold's
> > reconstruction of Eleanor of Toledo's burial gown doesn't show it as
such.
> > Also if a garment is displayed incorrectly, might it place undue stress
on
> > old, fragile fabrics? Do correct me if I'm wrong.
> >
> > Cindy Abel
>
> I'm pretty sure It's one of those sitting on the point of the shoulder
type
> dresses, like you seen in 1540s Tudor portraits or later Italian portraits
> (or venetian at least, I don't know much about other city states'
fashions)
> It's not really off the shoulder in the way that Victorian ballgowns were
> but it is a very wide neckline. These old fragile fabrics are probably
being
> assisted by modern fabrics so they are not placed under any avoidable
> stress.
> Elizabeth
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> ----
> Elizabeth Beaumont              Elizabeth Walpole
>              in                         OR                 in
> Politarchopolis, Lochac        Canberra, Australia
>              ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au
>
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Date: Fri, 01 Oct 2004 08:53:06 +1200
From: Melissa Brown <gold@where.else.net.nz>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] On lacing the GFD (aka Cotehardie)
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Hi all,

Thanks to Robin and Chris for responding to my query.

Robin, I passed on the info you so graciously provided. My friend 
rescinds his former statement about buttons on the under/supportive 
dress layer. :-)

Lacing it is!

Cheers,

Melissa
> On Tue, 28 Sep 2004, Melissa Brown wrote:
> 
> 
>>My question is this: Is there evidence for lacing in the
>>first/supporting layer of a Gothic fitted dress? I ask because I am
>>just beginning to make my very first one and have been told by a
>>costume laurel here that the underdress should have flat buttons and
>>that lacing isn't accurate.

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Does anyone know how to get ahold of Alteryears?

-- 
Kit
If you walk a mile in someone else's shoes, do you get to keep them? - Kenneth Cole

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Bjarne wrote:
> Hi Maura,
> Oh what a lovely doll and dress you made here! It is just after my heart,
> love it!
> Did you make the doll also?

Yes. I had originally made her about 10 years ago, as I wanted a 
'fashion baby' sized to fit most of Janet Arnold's pattern book diagrams 
without much fiddling. I did a ... bad, I should say, job on the 
original head and this is the result my taking her apart, doing some 
maintenance on her clothes, and making her look nicer.

> It is gorgeous

Thank you!

I hope other people got to see it before my photo host went down (they 
lost the whole disk cluster that had my account on it so I can't even 
log in ...grr).

I'll probably put up a page on her, along with all those other pages I 
have to edit and post - you know, in my spare time! ;)

Maura

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Alteryears
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On Sep 30, 2004, at 4:45 PM, Kitsune242@aol.com wrote:

> Does anyone know how to get ahold of Alteryears?
>
> -- 
> Kit
> If you walk a mile in someone else's shoes, do you get to keep them? - 
> Kenneth Cole
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Sep 30 19:58:11 2004
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It looks similar in style and color to the portrait of her with the blue 
background (When she was fairly young).  She wears a pearl covered 
partlet.  I have a good copy of it if anyone would like to see it.

Sg

Sue Clemenger wrote:

> This website says that this gown was worn by Eleanor of Toledo, but I 
> don't think I've ever seen it before.  Does anyone know anything more 
> about it?
> It's awfully pretty...I think I want it, regardless of who wore the 
> original!
> --sue
>
> http://www.wonders.org/images/gallery4.jpg
>
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Sep 30 21:55:10 2004
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From: Ms Cynthia Schrage <pioneercynthia@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Costume Bibliography
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Hey all,

Someone on this list sent me a large bibliography of
costuming resources and then my computer went off
line.

Would Whoever it was, please send it to me again.

Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!!

Cynthia


		
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On Thu, 30 Sep 2004, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:

> There appears to be a significant market for collectors of high-priced and
> genuine Asian antiques, artifacts, and antiquities in general.  I know of at
> least two periodicals aimed at this market, because used copies turn up at
> 60% off at a used bookstore I frequent.  The periodicals are called
> "Orientations" and "Arts of Asia".

         Thank you so much for this information!  I really appreciate your 
offer to copy the bibilography from the article but by extreme good luck 
my university library subscribes to both periodicals :-D.  Thank you also 
to the person who brought up Piecework.  I'll go and pick one up.

--annora
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Oct  1 02:35:57 2004
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Eleanor Dress???
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I would love to see it.  Is it on your website or can you forward it?

Becky


-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Wicked Frau
Sent: Thursday, September 30, 2004 4:57 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Eleanor Dress???

It looks similar in style and color to the portrait of her with the blue 
background (When she was fairly young).  She wears a pearl covered 
partlet.  I have a good copy of it if anyone would like to see it.

Sg



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