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From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] thoughts on a sleeve
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> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com 
> [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of 
> h-costume-request@indra.com
> Sent: Tuesday, November 30, 2004 7:09 PM
> To: h-costume@net.indra.com
> Subject: h-costume Digest, Vol 3, Issue 923
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> Today's Topics:
> 
>    1. Re: thoughts on a sleeve (Teddy)
>    2. Re: thoughts on a sleeve (Kate Pinner)
>    3. Re: thoughts on a sleeve (AlbertCat@aol.com)
>    4. RE: thoughts on a sleeve (otsisto)
>    5. RE: thoughts on a sleeve (Kate Pinner)
>    6. Re: thoughts on a sleeve (E House)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2004 09:30:43 +0000
> From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] thoughts on a sleeve
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Message-ID:
> 	
> <8AFF1656DE4AB348973023624E8F4019792563@MDX-CLX-DC1.uni.mdx.ac.uk>
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> 

> Would all this be over a grey (or dark lavendar, depending on 
> your monitor) 
> undergarment? Or another gown?

Erm... I no longer have the link to the picture - the layer closest to
the skin would be white (the smock/shift/chemise layer), the gown itself
appears to be the black with orange edging (possibly plain black over
and orange undergown.... open to interpretation there, with a white
shawl over it that looks grey where it is over the black.  I don't
recall a visible undergown layer.... but there's no reason there
*wouldn't * be an undergown beneath this style of gown,that I know of.

Teddy
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> Wait....didn't I say that?  ;-)


Very probably, but I was busy misinterpreting the picture at the
time...<g>

Teddy
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From: Ghislaine-SCA <sidoniaros@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Fortune Teller Garb - Historical
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Unto the list,

I hardly post, as my costuming is few and far between.
 However, recently, I find that I am in need of the
list’s expertise in trying to figure out a question.

It has been an issue for me to research the dress of
“fortune tellers” and diviners pre 1650 a.d.  I have
located three very good paintings that show these wise
women/con artists from period and was struck by an
article of clothing that most, if not all, seem to
wear. 

It is a drape.  A large rectangular piece of simple or
decorated fabric that is pinned at one shoulder and
then draped around as if it were a himation from
ancient Greek period.  The fortuneteller is typically
shown wearing a chemise and a skirt and this drape. 
No real indication of a bodice.

Can anyone give any more idea of the history of this
garment and if there are any other images from period
(probably just Renaissance) that would help me
understand what is going on?

THANK YOU!!

S. Linehan/Ghislaine d’Auxerre
**************************************

http://www.metmuseum.org/Works_Of_Art/viewOnezoom.asp?dep=11&zoomFlag=0&viewmode=1&item=60%2E30

http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/v/valentin/fortunet.html

http://www.masterpiece-paintings-gallery.com/caravaggio-fortune-95.htm



		
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Hi,
got a newsletter from Hyena Fabrics, it is not because i want to make any 
commercially things here, i just wanted to share with you.
It is gorgeous...........

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Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fortune Teller Garb - Historical
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Status: RO

Hello!

These ladies are all wearing similar clothing as they are all supposed to be
wearing the cultural garments of the Rom, or the gypsy people. So instead of
thinking 'fortune teller' think *Rom woman* who is telling fortunes. Fortune
telling was not exclusive to the Rom, but most period art tends to portray
them as doing so. :-)


Sheridan

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ghislaine-SCA" <sidoniaros@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 2004 11:44 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Fortune Teller Garb - Historical


> Unto the list,
>
> I hardly post, as my costuming is few and far between.
>  However, recently, I find that I am in need of the
> list's expertise in trying to figure out a question.
>
> It has been an issue for me to research the dress of
> "fortune tellers" and diviners pre 1650 a.d.  I have
> located three very good paintings that show these wise
> women/con artists from period and was struck by an
> article of clothing that most, if not all, seem to
> wear.
>
> It is a drape.  A large rectangular piece of simple or
> decorated fabric that is pinned at one shoulder and
> then draped around as if it were a himation from
> ancient Greek period.  The fortuneteller is typically
> shown wearing a chemise and a skirt and this drape.
> No real indication of a bodice.
>
> Can anyone give any more idea of the history of this
> garment and if there are any other images from period
> (probably just Renaissance) that would help me
> understand what is going on?
>
> THANK YOU!!
>
> S. Linehan/Ghislaine d'Auxerre
> **************************************
>
>
http://www.metmuseum.org/Works_Of_Art/viewOnezoom.asp?dep=11&zoomFlag=0&view
mode=1&item=60%2E30
>
> http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/v/valentin/fortunet.html
>
> http://www.masterpiece-paintings-gallery.com/caravaggio-fortune-95.htm
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Read only the mail you want - Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard.
> http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net (Elena O'Tighearnaigh)
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] velvet embroidered dupionis
Date: Wed, 01 Dec 2004 23:01:39 +0000
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*wipe**wipe*.  Anyone who opens Bjarne's fabric link had better have a drool mop handy!!!

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> Hi, 
> got a newsletter from Hyena Fabrics, it is not because i want to make any 
> commercially things here, i just wanted to share with you. 
> It is gorgeous........... 
> 
> http://www.hyenaproductions.com/store+whatsnew0304.htm 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews 
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk 
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
_______________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2004 15:46:44 -0800 (PST)
From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fortune Teller Garb - Historical Web site for info
	within the SCA
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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The best place for information on historic Gypsies
(Rom) dealing within the SCA time period I have found
is   
   http://www.latchodrom.org 
 You will find both articles and paintings.
I hope this helps,


--- Shane & Sheridan <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

> Hello!
> 
> These ladies are all wearing similar clothing as
> they are all supposed to be
> wearing the cultural garments of the Rom, or the
> gypsy people. So instead of
> thinking 'fortune teller' think *Rom woman* who is
> telling fortunes. Fortune
> telling was not exclusive to the Rom, but most
> period art tends to portray
> them as doing so. :-)
> 
> 
> Sheridan
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ghislaine-SCA" <sidoniaros@yahoo.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 2004 11:44 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] Fortune Teller Garb - Historical
> 
> 
> > Unto the list,
> >
> > I hardly post, as my costuming is few and far
> between.
> >  However, recently, I find that I am in need of
> the
> > list's expertise in trying to figure out a
> question.
> >
> > It has been an issue for me to research the dress
> of
> > "fortune tellers" and diviners pre 1650 a.d.  I
> have
> > located three very good paintings that show these
> wise
> > women/con artists from period and was struck by an
> > article of clothing that most, if not all, seem to
> > wear.
> >
> > It is a drape.  A large rectangular piece of
> simple or
> > decorated fabric that is pinned at one shoulder
> and
> > then draped around as if it were a himation from
> > ancient Greek period.  The fortuneteller is
> typically
> > shown wearing a chemise and a skirt and this
> drape.
> > No real indication of a bodice.
> >
> > Can anyone give any more idea of the history of
> this
> > garment and if there are any other images from
> period
> > (probably just Renaissance) that would help me
> > understand what is going on?
> >
> > THANK YOU!!
> >
> > S. Linehan/Ghislaine d'Auxerre
> > **************************************
> >
> >
>
http://www.metmuseum.org/Works_Of_Art/viewOnezoom.asp?dep=11&zoomFlag=0&view
> mode=1&item=60%2E30
> >
> >
>
http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/v/valentin/fortunet.html
> >
> >
>
http://www.masterpiece-paintings-gallery.com/caravaggio-fortune-95.htm
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > __________________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Read only the mail you want - Yahoo! Mail
> SpamGuard.
> > http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 



		
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Oh. My. GAWD!
I have to have some, I just *do!*
Man, I should know better than to tempt myself opening links from Bjarne....
--sue, in serious fabric-lust mode

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Hi,
> got a newsletter from Hyena Fabrics, it is not because i want to make 
> any commercially things here, i just wanted to share with you.
> It is gorgeous...........
> 
> http://www.hyenaproductions.com/store+whatsnew0304.htm


_______________________________________________
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Yup.  Too late in my case.  I just about shorted out my keyboard.
--sue, who feels a serious temptation to stray from safe 14th century 
middle-class waters.....

Elena O'Tighearnaigh wrote:

> *wipe**wipe*.  Anyone who opens Bjarne's fabric link had better have a drool mop handy!!!
> 
> --
> Slan go foill 
> Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 
> 
> Emer's Needle Wares
> 
> -------------- Original message -------------- 
> 
> 
>>Hi, 
>>got a newsletter from Hyena Fabrics, it is not because i want to make any 
>>commercially things here, i just wanted to share with you. 
>>It is gorgeous........... 
>>
>>http://www.hyenaproductions.com/store+whatsnew0304.htm 


_______________________________________________
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Is mine!   It arrived, and is it pretty!  So many nice, nice color pictures.
Rowena, Aethelmearc

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] velvet embroidered dupionis
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A little while back I got some of the regular embroidered silk at a shop in 
Columbia, SC for $38 a yard ...if I bought what was left on the bolt...a little 
over 6 yards. That's enough to get an 1780s polonaise out of....if I do the 
petticoat in another silk...right? Right?
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From: Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] velvet embroidered dupionis Polonaise
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Wel.. I am trying to make a polonaise out of 7 meters of fabric (1 yard 
= 90 cm) with maching petticoat but probably without maching decoration.
I made the bodice pattern from Janet Arnold p39. I found a little 
mistake in the pattern. The side seem from the front pattern is one inch 
to short.
The pattern was just a little to big for me.
Unfortionally it isn't out of that yummie fabricks.
It is out of some blue brokade with lightblue with gold leaves. Looks 
nice but not really authentic.
But it is for a normal kristmas party :-) .
It has to be finisched by the end of this week so I'll post pictures then.

Greetings,
       Deredere


AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

>A little while back I got some of the regular embroidered silk at a shop in 
>Columbia, SC for $38 a yard ...if I bought what was left on the bolt...a little 
>over 6 yards. That's enough to get an 1780s polonaise out of....if I do the 
>petticoat in another silk...right? Right?
>_______________________________________________
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>  
>

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Date: Thu, 02 Dec 2004 09:59:45 +0000
From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Fortune Teller Garb - Historical
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> I hardly post, as my costuming is few and far between.
>  However, recently, I find that I am in need of the
> list's expertise in trying to figure out a question.
> 
> It has been an issue for me to research the dress of
> "fortune tellers" and diviners pre 1650 a.d.  I have
> located three very good paintings that show these wise 
> women/con artists from period and was struck by an article of 
> clothing that most, if not all, seem to wear. 
> 
> It is a drape.  A large rectangular piece of simple or 
> decorated fabric that is pinned at one shoulder and then 
> draped around as if it were a himation from ancient Greek 
> period.  The fortuneteller is typically shown wearing a 
> chemise and a skirt and this drape. 
> No real indication of a bodice.

I don't knwo about the historyu of it but it's possible it was one of
those icongraphical things that painters used as shorthand - " A drape
of this sort = Fortune teller" (in the same way as "Sideless surcote =
Woman of Royal Blood")

No proof, just a thought

As far as the three images you have so far are concerned....
 
> http://www.metmuseum.org/Works_Of_Art/viewOnezoom.asp?dep=11&z
> oomFlag=0&viewmode=1&item=60%2E30

There's a whole dress under this drape.


> http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/v/valentin/fortunet.html

At the shoulder, there's a dark piece between the drape and her smock
neckline that *might* be the shoulder-strap of a bodice (the other
shoulder is too deeply shadowed to tell if there's annother strap there)
so it's possible this one is over a kirtle without sleeves

> http://www.masterpiece-paintings-gallery.com/caravaggio-fortune-95.htm

THis is the only one that can definately be said to have no bodice
beneath it... nor visible skirt for that matter.

Teddy
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] velvet embroidered dupionis
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Hi.
This was what i thoaght about when i looked at these embroidered fabrics. 
They would be lovely for a polonaise.
Surely i would make one if i were you with a solid coloured underskirt.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 02, 2004 6:03 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] velvet embroidered dupionis


>A little while back I got some of the regular embroidered silk at a shop in
> Columbia, SC for $38 a yard ...if I bought what was left on the bolt...a 
> little
> over 6 yards. That's enough to get an 1780s polonaise out of....if I do 
> the
> petticoat in another silk...right? Right?
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fortune Teller Garb - Historical
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You might try joining the Middle Eastern dance email list.  I bet there 
are list members there that have more information about this type of 
historical costuming.  Especially Morocco who has Rom or Roma heritage. 
  Email me if you want info on the list.

Sylrog

On Dec 2, 2004, at 2:59 AM, Teddy wrote:

>
>> I hardly post, as my costuming is few and far between.
>>  However, recently, I find that I am in need of the
>> list's expertise in trying to figure out a question.
>>
>> It has been an issue for me to research the dress of
>> "fortune tellers" and diviners pre 1650 a.d.  I have
>> located three very good paintings that show these wise
>> women/con artists from period and was struck by an article of
>> clothing that most, if not all, seem to wear.
>>
>> It is a drape.  A large rectangular piece of simple or
>> decorated fabric that is pinned at one shoulder and then
>> draped around as if it were a himation from ancient Greek
>> period.  The fortuneteller is typically shown wearing a
>> chemise and a skirt and this drape.
>> No real indication of a bodice.
>

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I"m going to be off-group for a while.  I have a new job that requires 
LOTS of travel, and need to trim the traffic to the In-box for a bit, so 
that it won't 'splode while I'm gone.

Have fun, and see you again soon.

Wendy Z
for the moment in
Chicago, IL

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From: Bonnie Booker <aspasia1@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fortune Teller Garb - Historical
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>
> It has been an issue for me to research the dress of
> "fortune tellers" and diviners pre 1650 a.d.  I have
> located three very good paintings that show these wise
> women/con artists from period and was struck by an
> article of clothing that most, if not all, seem to
> wear.
> 
> It is a drape.  A large rectangular piece of simple or
> decorated fabric that is pinned at one shoulder and
> then draped around as if it were a himation from
> ancient Greek period.  The fortuneteller is typically
> shown wearing a chemise and a skirt and this drape.
> No real indication of a bodice.

I have a half gypsy personna and researched it.  I'm also on the Lacho
Drom list.  There is also a mundane Rom list .
Look at
 http://www.abcgallery.com/T/titian/titian4.html for the Gypsy  Madonna c. 1512.
http://www.eagner.com/edipage/areaserv/ca,demtprgu[suc;ass.htm for an
article including pictures and dress pattern.
http://gallery.euroweb.hu/cgi-bin/gallery/highlight.cgi?=html/g/giorgion/temptest/tempest.html&find
 for Tempest by Giorgoione c. 1505
http://gallery.euroweb.hu/cgi-bin/gallery/highlight.cgi?file=html/h/hals/frans/03-1630/nogypsy.html&fi
for Gypsy Girls by Frans Hals c.1629.
 
> Can anyone give any more idea of the history of this
> garment and if there are any other images from period
> (probably just Renaissance) that would help me
> understand what is going on?

I have read 2 versions of where the drape came from.  One said it is
descended from the Greek.  Another said it was a blanket that could be
layed on the grownd for sleeping.

Although there were Rom in the Mideast, they were also in Europe in
the 15th c.  The most common form of fortune telling was palmestry. 
The cards they used were often close to the playing cards of the
period.  You have to remember cards were usually hand painted during
that time and very expensive.

-- 
Aspasia Moonwind
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From: Julie <jtknits@jtknits.cts.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] velvet embroidered dupionis
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OMIGOSH!  I've never seen such beautiful fabric.  If only I could sew well enough to warrant this kind of expense...
Thanks for posting (but now I have to clean my keyboard from all the drool <G>)

Julie

> got a newsletter from Hyena Fabrics, it is not because i want to make any 
> commercially things here, i just wanted to share with you.
> It is gorgeous...........
> 
> http://www.hyenaproductions.com/store+whatsnew0304.htm
 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk

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Date: Thu, 02 Dec 2004 10:22:14 -0800
Subject: Re: [h-cost] velvet embroidered dupionis
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
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This fabric is truly beautiful. I'd love some, even if I don't know what I'd
do with it. I think I'd throw the whole bolt onto my bed and roll naked on
it, especially the rust colored ones.

I purchased something like it three or four years ago in one of the very
high end fabric stores in Los Angeles. It is a celery colored dupioni
background with embroidery all over it -  flowers on tendrils that looks
more Elizabethan than Jacobian. Where "Bjarne's" silks look 17-18 Century,
this definitely looks 16th Century. The fabric was $90/yard. I bought one
yard, just enough for some two-part, slightly puffy, Elizabethan sleeves. I
bought wool in the cornflower blue color of many of the flowers to go with
it. The sleeves have been spangeled with gold tiny,tiny spangles in a random
pattern and are ready to cut into sleeves.

Ever since I bought the one yard, I've kicked myself because I didn't buy
enough to make a forepart too. Last year I was able to match the celery
color perfectly in a plain dupioni for bias strips.

Wishing I could turn the clock back....
LynnD 

> From: Julie <jtknits@jtknits.cts.com>
> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Thu, 02 Dec 2004 10:04:17 -0800 (PST)
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] velvet embroidered dupionis
> 
> OMIGOSH!  I've never seen such beautiful fabric.  If only I could sew well
> enough to warrant this kind of expense...
> Thanks for posting (but now I have to clean my keyboard from all the drool
> <G>)
> 
> Julie
> 
>> got a newsletter from Hyena Fabrics, it is not because i want to make any
>> commercially things here, i just wanted to share with you.
>> It is gorgeous...........
>> 
>> http://www.hyenaproductions.com/store+whatsnew0304.htm
>  
>> Leif og Bjarne Drews
>> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Date: Thu, 02 Dec 2004 13:34:16 -0500
Subject: Re: [h-cost] velvet embroidered dupionis
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Oh, yes, what everybody else said: the hyena embroidered dupionis are
delicious. Is anybody worried that dupioni isn't authentic enough? I notice
that a lot of these dupionis are not really very heavily slubbed; but in
SOME centuries there seems to be a real animus against any slub in silks at
all. Then I squint at the available artifacts, and they seem to be slightly
slubbed sometimes to ME, and I wonder what it is I'm not understanding...
Can anyone enlighten me? Or is it just the usual issue of it being easier to
make compromises for something beautiful? ;-)
Lauren
-- 
Lauren M. Walker

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] velvet embroidered dupionis
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Lynn Downward wrote:

>This fabric is truly beautiful. I'd love some, even if I don't know what I'd
>do with it. I think I'd throw the whole bolt onto my bed and roll naked on
>it, especially the rust colored ones.
>
>  
>
Designer Fabrics:

http://www.designerfabrics.ca

has some very nice embroidered silks in their "Damask and Embroidered 
Silks" section.  Of course, I'm not claiming any of them are perfect for 
any individual's era or project.  But I've been happy with the ones I've 
bought there.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com


>  
>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] velvet embroidered dupionis
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Where are you seeing many historic-looking embroidered silks that are 
not dupioni?  I've bought a few embroidered taffetas, but dupioni seems 
to be currently popular in the maintream market.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com


Lauren Walker wrote:

>Oh, yes, what everybody else said: the hyena embroidered dupionis are
>delicious. Is anybody worried that dupioni isn't authentic enough? 
>  
>
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Date: Thu, 02 Dec 2004 13:59:47 -0500
Subject: Re: [h-cost] velvet embroidered dupionis
From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Oh, I'm NOT seeing very many -- hyena has a few embroidered taffetas
sometimes, but everything else does seem to be dupioni. So I've just been
sighing and letting them go by. A little social permission to go for them
anyway, even though dupion, would be nice!
Lauren

> From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>

> Where are you seeing many historic-looking embroidered silks that are
> not dupioni?  I've bought a few embroidered taffetas, but dupioni seems
> to be currently popular in the maintream market.
> 
> Fran
> Lavolta Press
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
> 
> 
> Lauren Walker wrote:
> 
>> Oh, yes, what everybody else said: the hyena embroidered dupionis are
>> delicious. Is anybody worried that dupioni isn't authentic enough?
>> 
>> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Date: Thu, 2 Dec 2004 14:02:04 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] velvet embroidered dupionis
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     Regarding slubs - some listmembers have posted info about the use of
raw or waste silk, but I don't  know if there are any extant
artifacts to show what it was exactly.

     I've looked at 18thC garments, and there are sometimes
inconsistencies, but not huge slubs.  So a dupioni with a few
double-thick yarns is feasable.  Lots of dupioni today is made with
delberately thick slubs, though, which I have not seen in extant
garments.

     I can see the slubs in some of the samples, and I wonder if they're
all like tht or show up more with the color or lighting.  I would
definitely want to see a sample before spending that much for yardage
for a gown.  Also I would check the embroidery patterns (size,
density & distribution of motifs) against what was period.

     Wouldn't it be nice if the fabric designers thought of us first &
made them on smooth fabric, wth all the right patterns & colors? :-)

     For historic-inspired garments, h-i home decor, etc, they're great. 
Depends on the intended use of the item.  Everyone makes compromises,
and I think the more info people have (and the more they realize what
they're doing) the better.  Ultimately you'll decide what's
period-correct or authentic enough for you.

     By the way, I really like how they show the fabric both flat and
scrunched up.  It gives better detail of the fabric!

     -Carol

> Oh, yes, what everybody else said: the hyena embroidered dupionis are
> delicious. Is anybody worried that dupioni isn't authentic enough? I
> notice that a lot of these dupionis are not really very heavily slubbed;
> but in SOME centuries there seems to be a real animus against any slub
> in silks at all. Then I squint at the available artifacts, and they seem to
> be slightly slubbed sometimes to ME, and I wonder what it is I'm not
> understanding... Can anyone enlighten me? Or is it just the usual issue
> of it being easier to make compromises for something beautiful? ;-)
> Lauren
> --
> Lauren M. Walker
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Hi Lauren,

     For social permission, who is your society?  Is there a set of
standards or a quatermistress who needs to approve your clothes in
order to participate in an event?  There's a big range between
interpreting a person at a historic site vs. a 21stC masquerade or
wearing something beautiful at a costume con.

     -Carol


> Oh, I'm NOT seeing very many -- hyena has a few embroidered taffetas
> sometimes, but everything else does seem to be dupioni. So I've just been
> sighing and letting them go by. A little social permission to go for them
> anyway, even though dupion, would be nice!
> Lauren

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] velvet embroidered dupionis
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I think it helps to separate research from costuming.  What you (and 
other people) know is almost never identical to what you (or they) 
wear.  So if you see a gorgeous silk dupioni embroidered in a pattern 
and colors appropriate for a given period, and there is no perfectly 
smooth embroidered silk available (or what else is available is 
unaffordable)--well, why not use it?   You might wait around forever for 
the "perfect" fabric to show up.  Meanwhile it's realistic to accept any 
limitations and get on with making the outfit.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Lauren Walker wrote:

>Oh, I'm NOT seeing very many -- hyena has a few embroidered taffetas
>sometimes, but everything else does seem to be dupioni. So I've just been
>sighing and letting them go by. A little social permission to go for them
>anyway, even though dupion, would be nice!
>Lauren
>
>  
>
>>From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
>>    
>>
>
>  
>
>>Where are you seeing many historic-looking embroidered silks that are
>>not dupioni?  I've bought a few embroidered taffetas, but dupioni seems
>>to be currently popular in the maintream market.
>>
>>Fran
>>Lavolta Press
>>http://www.lavoltapress.com
>>
>>
>>Lauren Walker wrote:
>>
>>    
>>
>>>Oh, yes, what everybody else said: the hyena embroidered dupionis are
>>>delicious. Is anybody worried that dupioni isn't authentic enough?
>>>
>>>
>>>      
>>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>    
>>
>
>_______________________________________________
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>
>
>  
>
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Subject: [h-cost] Embroidered silk/rayon 
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Hi all,

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=28160&item=81
51378150&rd=1

is rather cheaper than the Hyena silk, and the ones which I won from
this seller are really quite nice...

Stevie

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Dec  2 14:42:56 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] velvet embroidered dupionis
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
To: h costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Yeah, kinda.  

For me and the piece I bought, the background fabric WAS slubby, not as much
as some dupioni but slubby nonetheless. My rationale for buying it anyway
was that there wasn't much background showing - much less than the hyena
silks - and that the embroidery and the colors used were absolutely
Elizabethan. I covered some of the worst slubs with the tiny spangles.

I had to decide: Will it kill me to have this bit of slubby showing more
than knowing I had it in my hand and let it go? And if I buy the right
background silk, will I take the time to embroider it? I had to answer NO to
both questions.

LynnD


> From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Thu, 02 Dec 2004 13:34:16 -0500
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] velvet embroidered dupionis
> 
> Oh, yes, what everybody else said: the hyena embroidered dupionis are
> delicious. Is anybody worried that dupioni isn't authentic enough? I notice
> that a lot of these dupionis are not really very heavily slubbed; but in
> SOME centuries there seems to be a real animus against any slub in silks at
> all. Then I squint at the available artifacts, and they seem to be slightly
> slubbed sometimes to ME, and I wonder what it is I'm not understanding...
> Can anyone enlighten me? Or is it just the usual issue of it being easier to
> make compromises for something beautiful? ;-)
> Lauren
> -- 
> Lauren M. Walker
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] velvet embroidered dupionis
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Hi,
I have noticed that you get fine dupionis and lesser fine ones. The fine 
ones wich also are more expensive, have very little slubs in them, and vise 
versa.


Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lauren Walker" <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 02, 2004 7:34 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] velvet embroidered dupionis


> Oh, yes, what everybody else said: the hyena embroidered dupionis are
> delicious. Is anybody worried that dupioni isn't authentic enough? I 
> notice
> that a lot of these dupionis are not really very heavily slubbed; but in
> SOME centuries there seems to be a real animus against any slub in silks 
> at
> all. Then I squint at the available artifacts, and they seem to be 
> slightly
> slubbed sometimes to ME, and I wonder what it is I'm not understanding...
> Can anyone enlighten me? Or is it just the usual issue of it being easier 
> to
> make compromises for something beautiful? ;-)
> Lauren
> -- 
> Lauren M. Walker
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Hi.
I totally agree with you, and it is such a shame that some people hessitate 
to use a fabric wich is not totally period. So much creativity is spoiled 
this way.........

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lavolta Press" <fran@lavoltapress.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 02, 2004 8:32 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] velvet embroidered dupionis


>I think it helps to separate research from costuming.  What you (and other 
>people) know is almost never identical to what you (or they) wear.  So if 
>you see a gorgeous silk dupioni embroidered in a pattern and colors 
>appropriate for a given period, and there is no perfectly smooth 
>embroidered silk available (or what else is available is 
>unaffordable)--well, why not use it?   You might wait around forever for 
>the "perfect" fabric to show up.  Meanwhile it's realistic to accept any 
>limitations and get on with making the outfit.
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
>
> Lauren Walker wrote:
>
>>Oh, I'm NOT seeing very many -- hyena has a few embroidered taffetas
>>sometimes, but everything else does seem to be dupioni. So I've just been
>>sighing and letting them go by. A little social permission to go for them
>>anyway, even though dupion, would be nice!
>>Lauren
>>
>>
>>>From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
>>>
>>
>>
>>>Where are you seeing many historic-looking embroidered silks that are
>>>not dupioni?  I've bought a few embroidered taffetas, but dupioni seems
>>>to be currently popular in the maintream market.
>>>
>>>Fran
>>>Lavolta Press
>>>http://www.lavoltapress.com
>>>
>>>
>>>Lauren Walker wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>Oh, yes, what everybody else said: the hyena embroidered dupionis are
>>>>delicious. Is anybody worried that dupioni isn't authentic enough?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>_______________________________________________
>>>h-costume mailing list
>>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>
>>
>>_______________________________________________
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>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Embroidered silk/rayon 
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Hi Stevie,
Thanks for the link. I also found a wonderfull Toille de Jouy printed in 5 
different colours.
Would that not be lovely for an Anglaise dress?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=28156&item=8151500061&rd=1
Next time i am making something, i think i want to try ebay when i look for 
fabrics. I never tryed that.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "STEPHANIE GAMBLE" <stevie.gamble@btinternet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 02, 2004 8:39 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Embroidered silk/rayon


> Hi all,
>
> http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=28160&item=81
> 51378150&rd=1
>
> is rather cheaper than the Hyena silk, and the ones which I won from
> this seller are really quite nice...
>
> Stevie
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] velvet embroidered dupionis
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At 11:32 02/12/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>I think it helps to separate research from costuming.  What you (and other 
>people) know is almost never identical to what you (or they) wear.  So if 
>you see a gorgeous silk dupioni embroidered in a pattern and colors 
>appropriate for a given period, and there is no perfectly smooth 
>embroidered silk available (or what else is available is 
>unaffordable)--well, why not use it?   You might wait around forever for 
>the "perfect" fabric to show up.  Meanwhile it's realistic to accept any 
>limitations and get on with making the outfit.
>
>Fran
>Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
>http://www.lavoltapress.com


I have always found that if I use fabric which is not period correct, and 
let's face it, nothing we can buy today is exactly the same as even 50 
years ago, I explain the history of the correct fabric to the customer. In 
other words, explain what he or she *would* have been wearing at the time. 
I ask them to pass on the fact that they *know* the fabric is not correct 
to any of the authenti-police who ask. It works for me (and I have a dupion 
Regency gown in silver grey Dupion, but hey, it was cabbage and I was not 
going to waste my money buying something else!!)

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] velvet embroidered dupionis
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In a message dated 12/2/2004 2:01:33 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
lauren.walker@comcast.net writes:

> A little social permission to go for them
> anyway, even though dupion, would be nice!
> Lauren
> 

Are you reproducing a gown for a museum? No?

Then GO FOR IT  fer Chist sake!


I might steer clear of really slubby Dup. But some are more Shantung than 
Dup. Of course I'm only worried how it will look on screen or stage. I'm just 
trained that way.

To paraphrase Duke Ellington: If it looks good, it is good.

Or you can wait the rest of your life until the perfect reproduction comes 
along....that has zero slubbs and is hand embroidered. 
I mean if it's machine embroidered who the hell cares about a slub or two? 
For my Polonaise I thought about a quilted petticoat. Why would I HAND quilt a 
petticoat for a dress made of 6 yards of MACHINE embroidery? I might machine 
quilt a petticoat. Don't tell me the ensemble won't be worth drooling over 
still.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Embroidered silk/rayon 
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Bjarne wrote:



> Hi Stevie,
> Thanks for the link. I also found a wonderfull Toille de Jouy
printed in 5
> different colours.
> Would that not be lovely for an Anglaise dress?
>
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=28156&item=81
51500061&rd=1
> Next time i am making something, i think i want to try ebay when i
look for
> fabrics. I never tryed that.

That is very pretty; I am tempted but I must not succumb! I've bought
rather a lot of his fabrics already, and there comes a point when the
bank manager doesn't understand the notion of a bargain...
Ebay seems to have some very good fabrics and some very bad fabrics;
the tricky bit is telling the difference. But so many historic
costumes need a great deal of fabric that the larger furnishing lots
can be very useful. And then it gets sidetracked; my daughter's room
at Medical school is so depressing that large amounts of my fabrics
are now drapes, throws, wall hangings and other assorted means of
turning what looks like a prison cell into something a bit more
inviting. As excuses for stashes go, the 'instant decorating with
fabric' is very useful, until you have to actually use it!
best wishes
Stevie

> ----- Original Message -----
> > Hi all,
> >
> >
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=28160&item=81
> > 51378150&rd=1
> >
> > is rather cheaper than the Hyena silk, and the ones which I won
from
> > this seller are really quite nice...
> >
> > Stevie


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] velvet embroidered dupionis
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Or you can wait the rest of your life until the perfect reproduction comes
along....that has zero slubbs and is hand embroidered.
I mean if it's machine embroidered who the hell cares about a slub or two?
For my Polonaise I thought about a quilted petticoat. Why would I HAND quilt 
a
petticoat for a dress made of 6 yards of MACHINE embroidery? I might machine
quilt a petticoat. Don't tell me the ensemble won't be worth drooling over
still.

Oh lovely, and you really have to get close to see if it is machine quilted.
Are you planning to make a patterned quilting with motifs or just waffle 
quilting it?

With those embroidered flowers, it would look fab with waffle quilting

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: "Kate Pinner" <pinner@mccc.edu>
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In case anyone is interested, I've put up on eBay a catalog of a photo
exhibit that has some early photos.
R.O. Dougan Collection of Historical Photographs
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4508151870&ssPag
eName=STRK:MESE:IT

Kate



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I am sure that i have seen a site which sells modern versions of 18th and 
19th century pinking tools. I have some, but wanted different shapes and 
sizes. Does anyone know of such a site?

Thanks

Suzi


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Does anyone have the link to the for sale list for the Hcost list?


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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On Thu, 2 Dec 2004, Marian Brock- Andersen wrote:

> Does anyone have the link to the for sale list for the Hcost list?

There are two:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/costumetrader/
39 members. Dawn is the listowner.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/swapsell/
43 members. Danielle is the listowner.

Not much activity on either, but then, as long as people are signed up,
they'll see the messages when someone does post. (Hmm, I'm due for some
stash clearing soon.)

There's certainly some overlap in the groups (I'm on both) and perhaps we
should just combine them under one name, but that's up to the listowners.

--Robin

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Yeah, I should be doing some stash clearing too.  *nods to self*..Ok, I guess I'll be getting out my little camera and shooting way this weekend.  Gotta finish up getting the patterns sorted too.  Good thing I've got my christmas shhopping all done!

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> 
> On Thu, 2 Dec 2004, Marian Brock- Andersen wrote: 
> 
> > Does anyone have the link to the for sale list for the Hcost list? 
> 
> There are two: 
> 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/costumetrader/ 
> 39 members. Dawn is the listowner. 
> 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/swapsell/ 
> 43 members. Danielle is the listowner. 
> 
> Not much activity on either, but then, as long as people are signed up, 
> they'll see the messages when someone does post. (Hmm, I'm due for some 
> stash clearing soon.) 
> 
> There's certainly some overlap in the groups (I'm on both) and perhaps we 
> should just combine them under one name, but that's up to the listowners. 
> 
> --Robin 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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Date: Thu, 2 Dec 2004 19:12:55 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pinking tools
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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>
>
> I am sure that i have seen a site which sells modern versions of 18th and
> 19th century pinking tools. I have some, but wanted different shapes and
> sizes. Does anyone know of such a site?
>
> Thanks
>
> Suzi

Suzi,

If someone e-mails you privately about this would you please forward it to
the list?  I would also like to know where to find pinking tools.

In the mean time, I found a rotary cutter that is wavy and gives a
close-to-period look for trim work.  Now I just have to get off my butt
and make my robe a'la anglaise!

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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Subject: [h-cost] velvet embroidered dupionis
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Status: RO

Fran wrote:

"I think it helps to separate research from costuming.  What you (and 
other people) know is almost never identical to what you (or they) 
wear.  So if you see a gorgeous silk dupioni embroidered in a pattern 
and colors appropriate for a given period, and there is no perfectly 
smooth embroidered silk available (or what else is available is 
unaffordable)--well, why not use it?   You might wait around forever for 
the "perfect" fabric to show up.  Meanwhile it's realistic to accept any 
limitations and get on with making the outfit.

Fran"

As you have frequently pointed out in the past, it is up to the individual to make their own decisions regarding their costuming needs. If Lauren has decided this fabric doesn't meet her needs based on her criteria, why are you questioning this?

Kelly
www.backwardglances.net

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I was responding to:

A little social permission to go for them
anyway, even though dupion, would be nice!
Lauren


Fran


Kelly Dorman wrote:

>Fran wrote:
>
>"I think it helps to separate research from costuming.  What you (and 
>other people) know is almost never identical to what you (or they) 
>wear.  So if you see a gorgeous silk dupioni embroidered in a pattern 
>and colors appropriate for a given period, and there is no perfectly 
>smooth embroidered silk available (or what else is available is 
>unaffordable)--well, why not use it?   You might wait around forever for 
>the "perfect" fabric to show up.  Meanwhile it's realistic to accept any 
>limitations and get on with making the outfit.
>
>Fran"
>
>As you have frequently pointed out in the past, it is up to the individual to make their own decisions regarding their costuming needs. If Lauren has decided this fabric doesn't meet her needs based on her criteria, why are you questioning this?
>
>Kelly
>www.backwardglances.net
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>  
>
_______________________________________________
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I couldn't get anywhere (useful) with the link, even when I pasted it 
into a word processor and went from there.  Could I ask you to give me 
the user name of the eBay seller?  I  buy a lot of other things on eBay, 
including at times vintage lace, but have never bought modern yardage.  
So I don't know who the good sellers are.  Do they tend to have 
reasonably long lengths? 

I would think some people would be setting up eBay stores to sell some 
of that incredible fabric that Chinese and Indian companies are selling 
wholesale-only on the web.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com



STEPHANIE GAMBLE wrote:

>Hi all,
>
>http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=28160&item=81
>51378150&rd=1
>
>
>  
>
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Hi,

Is this the site you were thinking of?

http://www.greenmanforge.com/

Stephanie

On 2 Dec 2004, at 19:12, Diana Habra wrote:

> 
> >
> >
> > I am sure that i have seen a site which sells modern versions of
> > 18th and 19th century pinking tools. I have some, but wanted
> > different shapes and sizes. Does anyone know of such a site?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Suzi
> 
> Suzi,
> 
> If someone e-mails you privately about this would you please forward
> it to the list?  I would also like to know where to find pinking
> tools.
> 
> In the mean time, I found a rotary cutter that is wavy and gives a
> close-to-period look for trim work.  Now I just have to get off my
> butt and make my robe a'la anglaise!
> 
> Diana
> 
> www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
> "Everything for the Costumer"
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pinking tools
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 2004 22:45:14 -0700
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I don't know if Mary Denise Smith is still on this list.  I would think 
she would have responded if she were.  Mary Denise, are you still here?
  If not, you may be able to find her at http://www.costumepress.com/
Her husband used to make these pinking tools.

Sylrog

On Dec 2, 2004, at 8:12 PM, Diana Habra wrote:

>
>>
>>
>> I am sure that i have seen a site which sells modern versions of 18th 
>> and
>> 19th century pinking tools. I have some, but wanted different shapes 
>> and
>> sizes. Does anyone know of such a site?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Suzi
>
> Suzi,
>
> If someone e-mails you privately about this would you please forward 
> it to
> the list?  I would also like to know where to find pinking tools.
>
> In the mean time, I found a rotary cutter that is wavy and gives a
> close-to-period look for trim work.  Now I just have to get off my butt
> and make my robe a'la anglaise!
>
> Diana
>
> www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
> "Everything for the Costumer"
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

_______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 06:53:15 2004
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Subject: [h-cost] dupioni
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Hi,
Apropos all  the disgussions about using dupioni. I have finally found what 
i can use my shocking pink dupioni for.
I will boil wash it and let it bleed to loose some of the colour. Then i can 
interline it with calico cotton to get the right support for it.
I have found a danish dress i want to make. It is quite unique in the world, 
because it is actually a brunswick dress. In Denmark the Brunswick style 
jacket develloped and became an indoor dress. At Rosenborg they have a dress 
wich belonged to the queens midget, and this dress is a floor long indoor 
dress with a hood in the back. It is an overdress. The dress has a 
longsleaved "waistcoat" or whatever you would call it inside the hooded 
overdress, and a flounced skirt.
The dress is made of pink and apple green taffeta.
In the back it is pointed in the waist like an  anglaise dress.
I have books with pictures of this dress, but the pictures are only small.
So i contakted the Rosenborg pallace and asked if i could buy photo copies 
of this, and i could.
So i have ordered a front and back picture.
This is going to be the next projekt after Alexias chenille stumpworked 
flowers dress.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Embroidered silk/rayon
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Fran wrote:



> I couldn't get anywhere (useful) with the link, even when I pasted
it
> into a word processor and went from there.  Could I ask you to give
me
> the user name of the eBay seller?

The seller is Saaltextiles, the name of the Ebay shop is Saal Fabrics
They also have a pure embrodered silk which is much more expensive;
try item number 8147534701for that.

>I  buy a lot of other things on eBay,
> including at times vintage lace, but have never bought modern
yardage.
> So I don't know who the good sellers are.  Do they tend to have
> reasonably long lengths?

It really all depends; we are in 'how big is a piece of string'
territory, alas. The furnishing fabrics tend to come in long lengths,
so I look for those. I'm in the UK, of course, and so the present
dollar rate doesn't bother me, and shipping is not such a big problem.


> I would think some people would be setting up eBay stores to sell
some
> of that incredible fabric that Chinese and Indian companies are
selling
> wholesale-only on the web.

Please tell me more!

best wishes
Stevie


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It really all depends; we are in 'how big is a piece of string'
territory, alas. The furnishing fabrics tend to come in long lengths,
so I look for those. I'm in the UK, of course, and so the present
dollar rate doesn't bother me, and shipping is not such a big problem.

Stevie.

Hi Stevie,
Dont you have to pay extra taxes or costums for import from America?
I have to pay, i think 25 % in all imports from USA

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

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>They also have a pure embrodered silk which is much more expensive;
>try item number 8147534701for that.
>  
>
It looks like good quality stuff.  I would be glad to see more patterns 
and colors in pure silk.

>  
>
>
>  
>
>>I would think some people would be setting up eBay stores to sell
>>    
>>
>some
>  
>
>>of that incredible fabric that Chinese and Indian companies are
>>    
>>
>selling
>  
>
>>wholesale-only on the web.
>>    
>>
>
>Please tell me more!
>  
>


OK, well--I keep a big resource list and spend (waste?) a lot of time 
looking around the web using keywords that happen to inspire me.  Even 
when I'm not looking for something specific to buy.  When I search a 
search engine using keywords like "embroidered silk fabric," "sillk 
brocade," "embroidered cottons," and so on, I'm always running into 
sites for manufacturers and wholesalers based in India, China, and other 
oriental countries.  (I'm sure I'd find more such sites if I 
intentionally tried the keywords with "wholesaler" or "manufacturer.")  
Their sites are in English; not always the best English, but they're 
clearly aimed at an English-speaking market. Some sites have gorgeous 
fabrics, and I have not seen that exact fabric anywhere in a store. 

The hitch is they will only sell to retailers, not consumers.  They tend 
not to give yardage requirements or prices (they ask you to contact 
them), though I have not dug as deeply as I might because they won't 
sell to me. I'm not in that business.  On the other hand, their required 
orders may not be huge, and someone could set up a website and/or eBay 
store with the most historic merchandise they carry.  This won't be me.  
But I think someone could do well with it.

Fran
Lavolta Press Bookson Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com

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I bought the Period Impressions 420 1770 Polonaise & Petticoat pattern years
ago and when I got it out recently, as I was thinking of making it, it
doesn't have any instructions.  I don't know if I bought it that way or if
I've lost them over the years.

Does anyone have this pattern and can look at the instructions for me? And
let me know if there is anything that as an experienced sewer I'm not going
to be able to figure out on my own?

Thanks
Susan in Bellevue

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I hope that there truly are no dumb questions. On reading about pinks, how would you keep the fabric from fraying?

                             Thank you, Angelique


		
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At 13:06 03/12/2004 -0800, you wrote:


>I hope that there truly are no dumb questions. On reading about pinks, how 
>would you keep the fabric from fraying?
>
>                              Thank you, Angelique


You painted the back of the fabric with gum arabic.

Nowadays you can use white glue, slightly diluted, gum arabic, fraycheck 
(English - don't know the American equivalent) or cheat, and use an iron-on 
backing like Vilene, or similar..

Oh, and if possible, cut on the diagonal or bias.

Suzi


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At 09:16 PM 12/3/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>You painted the back of the fabric with gum arabic.
>
>Nowadays you can use white glue, slightly diluted, gum arabic, fraycheck 
>(English - don't know the American equivalent) or cheat, and use an 
>iron-on backing like Vilene, or similar..
>
>Oh, and if possible, cut on the diagonal or bias.
>
>Suzi


In America we also use Fraycheck, along with other brands that do similar 
things. Gum Arabic can usually be found in the art paint section of 
Michaels, and other art stores.

Suzi, What is Vilene? That term is not familiar to me. Would that be 
similar to an iron on stabilizer often used for applique and embroidery, 
like Steam-A-Seam 2? Or is it a different type of iron on treatment?

And usually for me, if it is pinked, it is automatically minimized on the 
fraying, although that does depend on the fabric weave. I tend to pink 
tightly woven materials (I don't have a serger, so I often pink my seam 
allowances), and even linen frays just a bit, but not past the pinked area. 
YMMV, so test any fabrics first.

Kimiko


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinkes?
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--- Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:

> At 13:06 03/12/2004 -0800, you wrote:
> >I hope that there truly are no dumb questions. On
> reading about pinks, how 
> >would you keep the fabric from fraying?
> >
> >                              Thank you, Angelique
> 
> You painted the back of the fabric with gum arabic.
> 
> Nowadays you can use white glue, slightly diluted,
> gum arabic, fraycheck 
> (English - don't know the American equivalent) or
> cheat, and use an iron-on 
> backing like Vilene, or similar..
> 
> Oh, and if possible, cut on the diagonal or bias.
> 
> Suzi

And sometimes, you let it fray, even if it was a very
fraying fabric--one of the pieces in the earliest
"Patterns of Fashion" book by J. Arnold, a cloak iirc,
had been pinked after it was made & in some places,
pinked right through the silk lining & then just left
plain, even on the lining.
It frayed, too.

Ann in CT

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinkes?
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>
>>You painted the back of the fabric with gum arabic.
>>
>>Nowadays you can use white glue, slightly diluted, gum arabic, fraycheck 
>>(English - don't know the American equivalent) or cheat, and use an 
>>iron-on backing like Vilene, or similar..
>>
>>Oh, and if possible, cut on the diagonal or bias.
>In America we also use Fraycheck, along with other brands that do similar 
>things. Gum Arabic can usually be found in the art paint section of 
>Michaels, and other art stores.
>
>Suzi, What is Vilene? That term is not familiar to me. Would that be 
>similar to an iron on stabilizer often used for applique and embroidery, 
>like Steam-A-Seam 2? Or is it a different type of iron on treatment?

I am sorry but I do not know that name either. Vilene is a trade name for 
an iron on stiffening/interlining. It comes in varying thicknesses and is 
sort of like paper. I use it for lining collars and cuffs, and if I have a 
very "soft" fabric, for giving body. There is a fabric, like a fine cotton, 
that also can be ironed on, but that name is somewhere in the ether - I can 
never remember, and just ask for "the stuff that isn't Vilene"!!


>And usually for me, if it is pinked, it is automatically minimized on the 
>fraying, although that does depend on the fabric weave. I tend to pink 
>tightly woven materials (I don't have a serger, so I often pink my seam 
>allowances), and even linen frays just a bit, but not past the pinked 
>area. YMMV, so test any fabrics first.


By the way, the kind of pinking I mean is not done with scissors or shears, 
but is decorative, as in Elizabethan clothes, and 18th and 19th century 
dress trimming. I have some of the tools of my own, but am looking for a 
different one.

Suzi



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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 19:06:57 2004
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Subject: [h-cost] Books early-mid 1500s??
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Hi all,

I am looking to expand my book collection (aren't we all?). However, I am 
specifically looking to find the best books on historical garments in the 
early to mid 1500s. My focus is on England, but as English fashions were 
influenced by German, French, Flemish, Spanish and Italian fashions, I 
don't mind stretching in those directions as well.

For that time period, what books would any or all of you suggest? I may 
already have them, but I would rather openly ask anyway. And portrait only 
book suggestions are also welcome.

Thanks for your suggestions.

Kimiko Small
Owner ~ DreamTime Studios
http://www.dreamtime-studios.com
Fresno, CA, USA

"When there is fear, there is no creativity" ~ C. Lowell

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Books early-mid 1500s??
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>specifically looking to find the best books on historical garments in the 
>early to mid 1500s. My focus is on England, but as English fashions were 
>influenced by German, French, Flemish, Spanish and Italian fashions, I 
>don't mind stretching in those directions as well.

>And portrait only book suggestions are also welcome.

The Book of Costume, by Millia Davenport.  The pictures are black and 
white, with a couple of color plates stuck in there, but it has the 
greatest number of costume images per period of any book I've ever seen, 
with no re-drawings (perhaps 2200 images in all).  There are even small 
articles on the life and times of several periods in certain countries, and 
of things like pocket watches.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinkes?
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> At 09:16 PM 12/3/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>>You painted the back of the fabric with gum arabic.
>>
>>Nowadays you can use white glue, slightly diluted, gum arabic, fraycheck
>>(English - don't know the American equivalent) or cheat, and use an
>>iron-on backing like Vilene, or similar..
>>
>>Oh, and if possible, cut on the diagonal or bias.
>>
>>Suzi
>
>
> In America we also use Fraycheck, along with other brands that do similar
> things. Gum Arabic can usually be found in the art paint section of
> Michaels, and other art stores.

My favorite is FrayBlock.  I saw a demo piece of fabric at a JoAnn's once
and haven't gone back.  What makes it different is that it is still
flexible when dry and it is nearly undetectable!  It is much better than
Fraycheck.  The only downside is that it is very liquidy and can drip on
the floor or table if you aren't careful.  But I highly recommend it!

In reality, though, I don't think that you need to use any edge treatment
when you pink your edges if the fabric.  Remember that most of the pinked
edges for 1700's are for decoration and won't be subject to alot of
friction like an interior seam.

Good luck!

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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>
>
>My favorite is FrayBlock.  I saw a demo piece of fabric at a JoAnn's once
>and haven't gone back.  What makes it different is that it is still
>flexible when dry and it is nearly undetectable!  It is much better than
>Fraycheck.  The only downside is that it is very liquidy and can drip on
>the floor or table if you aren't careful.  But I highly recommend it!
>
>In reality, though, I don't think that you need to use any edge treatment
>when you pink your edges if the fabric.  Remember that most of the pinked
>edges for 1700's are for decoration and won't be subject to alot of
>friction like an interior seam.


It depends on the fabric. If you are using silk taffeta it is not too bad, 
but silk dupion is a minefield. I recently completed a copy of a dress worn 
by Mme. de Pompadour for a museum. They chose the fabric - dupion - and 
would not be told it was not period correct. I managed to get really 
closeup details, and the serpentine trimmings were all straight pinked. So 
out came the trusty pinking shears, and I pinked yards of fabric, gathered 
it, sewed it on, and watched it fray before my eyes. I tried Fraycheck, 
which left a very obvious line, and if course the museum people didn't like 
that!. So I did the frills on the arms with it, very lightly, but the rest 
had to be left to fray.

The moral of this little story is, try not to be overruled by museum staff 
who know less than you. And, try cutting the ruffles on the bias next time!!

Suzi


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From: "The Foxes" <fox3785@charter.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Books early-mid 1500s??
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2004 09:41:09 -0500
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Books for 15th century.

Evans, Joan; Medieval French Dress (based off of Quicherat so has some
problems)

Huston, Mary; Costume in Medieval France 14th and 15th Centuries (makes
generalizations but ok)

Scott, Margaret; A Visual History of Costume; The Fourteenth and
Fifteenth Centuries (pretty good but hard to find)

A book that is interesting.. not about costumes but culture
The Lady in Medieval England(1000 - 1500) by Peter Coss (1998, Sutton
Publishing)

Good Luck
Annette

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Carolyn Kayta Barrows
Sent: Friday, December 03, 2004 8:40 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Books early-mid 1500s??


>specifically looking to find the best books on historical garments in
the 
>early to mid 1500s. My focus is on England, but as English fashions
were 
>influenced by German, French, Flemish, Spanish and Italian fashions, I 
>don't mind stretching in those directions as well.

>And portrait only book suggestions are also welcome.

The Book of Costume, by Millia Davenport.  The pictures are black and 
white, with a couple of color plates stuck in there, but it has the 
greatest number of costume images per period of any book I've ever seen,

with no re-drawings (perhaps 2200 images in all).  There are even small 
articles on the life and times of several periods in certain countries,
and 
of things like pocket watches.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Books early-mid 1500s??
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--- Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote:

> >early to mid 1500s. My focus is on England
 
> The Book of Costume, by Millia Davenport.  The
> pictures are black and 
> white, with a couple of color plates stuck in there,
> but it has the 
> greatest number of costume images per period of any
> book I've ever seen, 
> with no re-drawings (perhaps 2200 images in all). 
> 
>         CarolynKayta Barrows
> dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
>           www.FunStuft.com

While that is largely the case, at least some drawings
right around 1400 (early for the question at hand, but
still) are from the nineteenth century.  
They are labelled, but not in Large Type.

Can you tell my favorite period?

Even with the proviso, I think Davenport has the most
bang for the buck & enough information that you can
try later to find a large copy of any picture you
particularly liked.

Ann in CT


	
		
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Books early-mid 1500s??
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At 09:41 04/12/2004 -0500, you wrote:

>Books for 15th century.

The Joan Evans book is called "Dress in Medieval France" and the copy I saw 
is very large and unwieldy!


>Huston, Mary; Costume in Medieval France 14th and 15th Centuries (makes
>generalizations but ok)

That's M. G Houston "Medieval Costume in England and France" (recent 
reprint I think, by Dover??


>Scott, Margaret; A Visual History of Costume; The Fourteenth and
>Fifteenth Centuries (pretty good but hard to find)

This is Batsford's "The History of Dress" series - most of the pictures are 
small, and black and white. Some of the text is speculative, in my opinion, 
and it stops at 1500.

C.W and P. Cunnington "Handbook of English Costume in the 16th Century

James Laver, "Early Tudor 1485- 1558" Lots of large black and white 
pictures. (Costume of th eWeatern World Series)

G. Reynolds "Elizabethan and Jacobean 1558 -1625" same series as the Laver, 
and same style

A. Blum "The Last Valois 1515-1590" same as above

I also have a wonderful Czech book with pictures in close-up in colour, but 
I imagine that is difficult to find - thank you E.Bay!!

I have a lot of general books with colour pictures (my costume library is 
very large) so if you have specific queries please ask me off list.

Then there are the Elizabeth books

"The Elizabethan Icon", Roy Strong

"Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd" Janet Arnold.

I have all of the above books except the Joan Evans.

Suzi




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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Books early-mid 1500s??
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On Sat, 4 Dec 2004, The Foxes wrote:

> Books for 15th century.

Useful recommendations, but wasn't the original poster looking for the
first half of the 16th century?

On thinking about it, I realize that most of the 16th c. sources I've seen
focus on late 16th c., so that's a good question. It's outside my
specialty area, so I will be interested to see responses.

Possibly some of Roy Strong's books would cover the portrait art of this
era.

--Robin


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Why yes.. I brain sparked and thought 15th century.. oops.

There are some English monumental brasses shown from the early 16th
century in this book.

Catalogue of Rubbings of Brasses and Incised Slabs by Muriel Clayton
(1979 Victoria and Albert Museum)

I also have a book in French that I bought at the Musee Cluny.  I do not
know if this book comes in an English format or not.  It has many very
nice images of early 16th century French dress in many tapestries.  

La tapisserie medievale au Musee de Cluny, by Fabienne Joubert.  

Now in the right century.
Annette

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Robin Netherton
Sent: Saturday, December 04, 2004 12:06 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Books early-mid 1500s??


On Sat, 4 Dec 2004, The Foxes wrote:

> Books for 15th century.

Useful recommendations, but wasn't the original poster looking for the
first half of the 16th century?

On thinking about it, I realize that most of the 16th c. sources I've
seen
focus on late 16th c., so that's a good question. It's outside my
specialty area, so I will be interested to see responses.

Possibly some of Roy Strong's books would cover the portrait art of this
era.

--Robin


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Dec  4 14:58:35 2004
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] Dream projekt
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Hi,
I think that all projekts i have done is a dream projekt.
In order to make all your best efforts, you have to be in love with your 
work, and i think i am that, when i make new things.
Off cause there are some hurddles, it often also gets boring when you have 
tryed the most in the projekt, and you have to kick yourself to finish it.
My current projekt, the dress with stumpwork chenille roses is great fun 
right now, but i know already that it will be boring soon. Soon i have 
finished the stomacher, and i have to spend the rest of the work in doing 
tedious tedious rose and leave stumpwork leaves. I need to make 45 roses 
wich have 4 leaves each, together with 102 green leaves.
And i cant give it up because it is a permission work.
When i get pensioned in about 10 years, and hopefully are well yeat and 
still lives, i want to make big embroidered wall hangings in free form 
embroidery. I dream of making some of my own pictures inspired from the 
danish history...............

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Dec  4 15:35:49 2004
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Books early-mid 1500s??
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At 14:41 04/12/2004 -0500, you wrote:

>Why yes.. I brain sparked and thought 15th century.. oops.
>
>There are some English monumental brasses shown from the early 16th
>century in this book.
>
>Catalogue of Rubbings of Brasses and Incised Slabs by Muriel Clayton
>(1979 Victoria and Albert Museum)
>
>I also have a book in French that I bought at the Musee Cluny.  I do not
>know if this book comes in an English format or not.  It has many very
>nice images of early 16th century French dress in many tapestries.
>
>La tapisserie medievale au Musee de Cluny, by Fabienne Joubert.


It should be remembered that the Cluny Tapestries, which include the "Lady 
and The Unicorn", are in large part mythological, and the costumes, while 
related to the fashion of the day, are not necessarily "of" the period. The 
tapestries are quite stunning, and are almost life size, while the colours 
seem to have been well preserved, none of the "blueing" that happens to 
many French tapestries.

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dream projekt
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Your 'dream projects' cause many of us to dream, too.
Realizing that I do not have the time and perhaps the talent to chase the
dream with my own fingers in the manner that you do, I have been inspired to
study the pictures (particularly in Kyoto) and try using some of the
extraordinary fiber trims now presently available here in the States to take
a short cut toward recreating the originals, at least in spirit.  Many of
the fibers that copy chenille are readily found in yarn shops as well as
JoAnns, Michael's and such.  I am using time honored techniques, but within
my purse allowances.
Twenty years ago, I was doing a huge amount of embroidery, as was popular
for the 70's. Then it was for modern projects. I have a wonderful vest and
long skirt of crimson  cotton suede cloth which I ornamented with Jacobean
motifs and form that I am still able to wear (with minor alterations.)  Now
I long for the time to rediscover this form in a more appropriate way.
Sigh.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 04, 2004 2:57 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Dream projekt


> Hi,
> I think that all projekts i have done is a dream projekt.
> In order to make all your best efforts, you have to be in love with your
> work, and i think i am that, when i make new things.
> Off cause there are some hurddles, it often also gets boring when you have
> tryed the most in the projekt, and you have to kick yourself to finish it.
> My current projekt, the dress with stumpwork chenille roses is great fun
> right now, but i know already that it will be boring soon. Soon i have
> finished the stomacher, and i have to spend the rest of the work in doing
> tedious tedious rose and leave stumpwork leaves. I need to make 45 roses
> wich have 4 leaves each, together with 102 green leaves.
> And i cant give it up because it is a permission work.
> When i get pensioned in about 10 years, and hopefully are well yeat and
> still lives, i want to make big embroidered wall hangings in free form
> embroidery. I dream of making some of my own pictures inspired from the
> danish history...............
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: [h-cost] somewhat OT: help with china head doll
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My mother recently gave me a china head doll which she would like me to dress. Me, being the historic costumer that I am :-) feel the need to dress this doll properly! However, my period is Elizabethan, and I really don't know where to start to place this doll into her proper period.

>From my attempted browsings on the web, I would call the hairstyle "low-brow". It is molded, *very* curly, and has a band or barrette across the back of the head. There is not an obvious part in the hair. I found one example of this online and they termed it a "Dolly Madison" style. The thing that really seems to stand out about this head is that she has wire earrings dangling from her ears. I have not seen anything like this in the pictures I was looking at online.

Can anyone at least give me a decade to place this doll in, and then some ideas of proper clothing/fabric? I have a simple pattern that came with the replacement body, but if she should be in a lower-necked bodice, I'll need to do some alterning, etc.

Thanks!
Rebecca Schmitt

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] somewhat OT: help with china head doll
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Hi Rebecca,

I've collected china head dolls for years and have many reference books (and about 80 dolls), I'm guessing from your descriptions that the one you have is probably c.1870's (a china head with earrings that was earlier would likely have smooth center parted hair not curly), it's hard to tell without a photo though. If you want to send me one or post one somewhere I'll be glad to take a look........

Perry
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Subject: [h-cost] Two observations: was Books early-mid 1500s
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	I'm about to make a couple of generalized observations, and I'm afraid they
may be considered insulting by some of the many fine posters to this and
other costume related lists.  I want to say at the start that this isn't
aimed at anyone (least of all Suzi Clark!).  They may be dismissed as the
ramblings of a diseased brain (I am so sick of being sick at the moment!)  I
may be way off base and you are free to politely tell me that I'm wrong,
wrong, wrong and why (grin).

	Over many years I have noticed the _tendency_ to consider pictorial, either
painted or tapestry, depictions of various period costumes to be _The_ focus
of costume knowledge and critique.  The first places I looked for
inspiration as a budding costumer (outside the R. Turner Wilcox "Mode in
..." books) were coffee table art books.  Lots of color pictures of people
in dated garb.  If questioned about the periodicy of a sleeve or neckline
you just pointed to the painting as _Documentation_ and everyone nodded
sagely.
	The days of considering those paintings as gospel are over, and things have
swung a bit the other direction.  Now the tendency is to feel that if you
can't find an item depicted by more than one artist of the period and area,
it was probably "mythological" or "allegorical" (I am overstating a bit
here).  The example that comes to mind is Roger vander Weyden's use of "Fram
Air Filter Hat".  His Magdalen picture being the most famous.
	The problem I see with this is that there are literally thousands more
paintings and tapestries around from pre-16th Century Europe that simply are
not depicted in any printed format outside the little museum, church,
castle, chateau, or town hall they reside in.  This can make statements like
"the Fram Air Filter hat is not seen outside the paintings of Roger vander
Weyden" incorrect simply because most of us don't have access to a big
enough sampling of paintings or tapestry done by other artists of period or
area.  They may very well exist, but are not well done enough, not done by a
famous artist, or in an out of the way spot or private collection.  They may
exist in a sculptured form rather than in painting.  An open mind needs to
be kept.
	I noticed the enormous amount of unpublished artwork when I was traveling
in Europe, both while living there in the 1970's and 80's, and on visits to
Germany in the last two years.  The art collection I saw in 1990 (the week
after the Czech's opened the borders) at Hradcany Castle had over a dozen
paintings either done by, or in the style of, Lucas Cranach.  I've never
seen any of them depicted anywhere.  There was another picture in the 14th
century wing with ladies in pointy hennins and sideless surcotes with angel
sleeves mixed with ladies and gentlemen in houpelands (the guard wouldn't
allow pictures).  The same with the Stadt museum in Darmstadt (not where the
Darmstadt Madonna is housed).  Ditto the Chateau of Alzy le Rideau with it's
wonderful life size portrait of Mary Queen of Scots that I haven't been able
to find anywhere.

	Another resource that seems to be underutilized is sculpture, at least in
the later periods.  Perhaps because there isn't a lot of this available in
decent pictures.  This is the one time when it is occasionally possible to
get the lady to "turn around" so you can see the back of her costume. There
are a large number of 3/4 and full round depictions of people in existence,
many of them in the churches and cathedrals.  When you see similar dress
styles in several churches in the area, you get the feeling that it may not
all be dismissible as "allegorical", particularly when it's depicted on
several of the figures.

	I'm not suggesting that costumes in art and sculpture are not sometimes
mythological or allegorical!  I'm just suggesting there is a lot of
information out there that is not on the web, or in English language art
books. Also, information that is not in a painted or woven form.

	Of course it's a bit difficult to cite sources that aren't published
anywhere too.  I know I have albums and shopping bags full of art from out
of the way places, and I wonder how many others do to.  Of course we are
still stymied by copyright issues when it comes to putting them up on the
Web, not to mention the number of pictures I have that I can't necessarily
remember the origin of.

	Thanks for your attention, we now return you to your regularly scheduled
discussion :-)  Sorry for the rambling -

Regina Romsey

>
> It should be remembered that the Cluny Tapestries, which include
> the "Lady
> and The Unicorn", are in large part mythological, and the costumes, while
> related to the fashion of the day, are not necessarily "of" the
> period. The
> tapestries are quite stunning, and are almost life size, while
> the colours
> seem to have been well preserved, none of the "blueing" that happens to
> many French tapestries.
>
> Suzi
>

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Two observations: was Books early-mid 1500s
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At 16:30 04/12/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>         I'm about to make a couple of generalized observations, and I'm 
> afraid they
>may be considered insulting by some of the many fine posters to this and
>other costume related lists.  I want to say at the start that this isn't
>aimed at anyone (least of all Suzi Clark!).  They may be dismissed as the
>ramblings of a diseased brain (I am so sick of being sick at the moment!)  I
>may be way off base and you are free to politely tell me that I'm wrong,
>wrong, wrong and why (grin).
>
>   An open mind needs to
>be kept.

Just a few comments. I still think pictorial evidence is valid if you have 
books from all over, and can compare. I have, so I do!! Living in England I 
have access to lots of European publications, many in English translation, 
and many of which are not on regular book lists. I think after more than 30 
years, I know how to compare. (And I know you said your comments weren't 
aimed at me - no problem!) However, Kimiko did ask for visual sources, 
books in particular. My Czech book is in English, and so are two Russian 
books I have. French does not need translation for me, I also have German, 
Swedish, Danish and Norwegian, with English glossaries. It's when I come to 
America that I am stuck!

>         Another resource that seems to be underutilized is sculpture, at 
> least in
>the later periods.  Perhaps because there isn't a lot of this available in
>decent pictures.  This is the one time when it is occasionally possible to
>get the lady to "turn around" so you can see the back of her costume. There
>are a large number of 3/4 and full round depictions of people in existence,
>many of them in the churches and cathedrals.  When you see similar dress
>styles in several churches in the area, you get the feeling that it may not
>all be dismissible as "allegorical", particularly when it's depicted on
>several of the figures.


But could not this be one particular "school" of sculpting, which makes it 
no more valid than paintings. If you saw the same style all over the place, 
rather than in one area, then it may not be allegorical. Incidentally, 
weren't the Cluny tapestries meant to be "fantastical"/allegorical? 
Otherwise why introduce a Unicorn??


>         I'm not suggesting that costumes in art and sculpture are not 
> sometimes
>mythological or allegorical!  I'm just suggesting there is a lot of
>information out there that is not on the web, or in English language art
>books. Also, information that is not in a painted or woven form.
>
>         Of course it's a bit difficult to cite sources that aren't published
>anywhere too.  I know I have albums and shopping bags full of art from out
>of the way places, and I wonder how many others do to.  Of course we are
>still stymied by copyright issues when it comes to putting them up on the
>Web, not to mention the number of pictures I have that I can't necessarily
>remember the origin of.

Like you I have shelves full of illustrations, and hundreds of my own 
photos, including sculpture, all of which I use to reference costume, as do 
many other people on this list and others. For many of us it is our job, so 
we have to try and get it right. I just find visual evidence the safest, as 
descriptions, unless first hand, and often even then, are subjective. At 
least if I get it wrong using my own eyes, I have no-one else to blame!

Suzi



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Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] somewhat OT: help with china head doll
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Unfortunately, I don't have a digital camera with which to take "instant" photos (it's on the Christmas list!!!). But giving me a rough guesstimate helps greatly. Now, I just need to see what 1870's dresses looked like! Thanks

Rebecca Schmitt

> 
> From: Morses3@aol.com
> Date: 2004/12/04 Sat PM 11:35:30 GMT
> To: h-costume@indra.com (Historical Costume)
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] somewhat OT: help with china head doll
> 
> Hi Rebecca,
> 
> I've collected china head dolls for years and have many reference books (and about 80 dolls), I'm guessing from your descriptions that the one you have is probably c.1870's (a china head with earrings that was earlier would likely have smooth center parted hair not curly), it's hard to tell without a photo though. If you want to send me one or post one somewhere I'll be glad to take a look........
> 
> Perry
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Books early-mid 1500s??
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2004 20:51:14 -0800
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> Suzi Clark wrote:

> I also have a wonderful Czech book with pictures in close-up in
> colour, but
> I imagine that is difficult to find - thank you E.Bay!!

Title?  E-Bay being an equal opportunity money taker!  :-)

Regina Romsey/Wanda Pease
Some people are like Slinkies . . . not really good for anything, but you
still can't help but giggle when you see one tumble down the stairs.


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Two observations: was Books early-mid 1500s
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2004 21:41:28 -0800
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>
> Just a few comments. I still think pictorial evidence is valid if
> you have
> books from all over, and can compare. I have, so I do!! Living in
> England I
> have access to lots of European publications, many in English
> translation,
> and many of which are not on regular book lists. I think after
> more than 30
> years, I know how to compare. (And I know you said your comments weren't
> aimed at me - no problem!) However, Kimiko did ask for visual sources,
> books in particular. My Czech book is in English, and so are two Russian
> books I have. French does not need translation for me, I also
> have German,
> Swedish, Danish and Norwegian, with English glossaries. It's when
> I come to
> America that I am stuck!

Suzi, it's a good thing I keep a box of tissues next to the computer!  This
way I caught the drool as I read about your abilities and book collection!
I should have completely started a new thread rather than tagging onto the
thing that caught my wavering intellect.

You and the others are correct that visual evidence is all we have.  Written
descriptions are very prone to misinterpretation as words change meaning or
fall out of use all together. I was trying to suggest that there is more out
there than two dimensional painting and tapestry.  You are SO lucky to have
books from all over and to be able to visit some period places within a days
drive!  I have found so many people here in the States that seem to think
that what is published in book or internet form is all there is.  They are
astounded when I haul out those photo albums or bags of photos (not shopping
bags of art as my post implied).  They are also horrified that not
everything is behind glass, in humidity controlled rooms, or grand museums.
The idea that there are little old churches scattered everywhere with a
wealth of pictorial or sculptural information causes glassy eyed
astonishment.

I understand that the Unicorn tapestries were supposed to be allegorical,
but I've been surprised at the number of times I have found that, to me,
silly looking hairdressing mode elsewhere.  I'm just not convinced that the
clothing depicted _has_ to be allegorical too.

Stylized sculpture certainly exists (Strasbourg's bliauts for example).  I
was actually thinking of the sculptured scenes of life I saw in the
cathedrals on the inner set of walls that separates the outside aisles from
the central Nave (?).  I remember that Chartres and Amiens particularly had
wonderful scenes done in 3/4 round of people doing all kinds of things in
all sorts of poses.  The problem with both of those places was that they
were really dark on the days that I was there and I didn't have 1600 speed
film to take pictures then.

Wish there were some way you and I and others on this list could share all
our pictures.  I'm trying to negotiate to buy the 4000+ slides that a friend
spent two years and a lot of money taking in specifically out of the way
spots in Germany and the Netherlands.  Even if I get them I won't be able to
share them with everyone the way I would like to see done.  Sigh.  Such are
the constraints of copyrights.   Although, if the photos are your own of
pieces of art you don't own, but are OLD, are they ... NO DON'T GO THERE!

Thanks for the background and gentle touch.

Regina Romsey/Wanda Pease
Some people are like Slinkies . . . not really good for anything, but you
still can't help but giggle when you see one tumble down the stairs.

>

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I've been putting together a slide presentation on Uncommon Clothes for the SCA time period and just being attuned to looking for variations on the usual has lead to so many finds.  I have tried to avoid things I think are allegorical or biblical, but I still have over 2 hours worth and I'm trying to move along fast and not show too many duplicates of the same thing.

Janet

Janet Davis
Castle Furnishings
www.medievalbookstore.com
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	<5.1.0.14.2.20041204150337.01495d70@mail.suziclarke.co.uk>
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While I'm interested in the time period you requested, I don't have much interest in England.  However, here are a few books:

Anderson, Ruth, Hispanic Costume 1480-1530, Hispanic Society of America, 1979.    This is a fantastic costume book, although there is not a great deal after 1500.  It is currently in print, just hard to find.



De Lasarte, Joan, Catalan Painting: From Gothic Splendor to the Baroque, Skira/Rizzoli, 1991.    There isn't much in here for the years you are interested in, but there is a good reproduction of one of my favorite outfits from about the 1520's - a yellow dress covered with red ribbons and bag sleeves.



Kybalova, L., Herbenova, O. & Lamarova, M., The Pictorial Encyclopedia of Fashion, Paul Hamlyn, 1968.       This is similar to the Davenport book, with lots of B/W photos of art from all over Europe.



Van Os, H., Kok, J., Luijten, G. & Scholten, F., Netherlandish Art in the Rijksmuseum 1400-1600, Waanders Publishers, 2000.         This is actually currently in print.



Janet



Janet Davis
Castle Furnishings
www.medievalbookstore.com




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From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] somewhat OT: help with china head doll
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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 My Encyclopedia lists 1870's as the beginning of the
Bustle era, with slim silhouettes ,diagonal lines to
the skirts and large ,feathered hats. The bustles are
not the over exaggerated "butts"  but more of a pad at
the back.
 You can head on over to the Truly Victorian web site
and check on their patterns.


--- lotsofteapots@charter.net wrote:

> Unfortunately, I don't have a digital camera with
> which to take "instant" photos (it's on the
> Christmas list!!!). But giving me a rough
> guesstimate helps greatly. Now, I just need to see
> what 1870's dresses looked like! Thanks
> 
> Rebecca Schmitt
> 
> > 
> > From: Morses3@aol.com
> > Date: 2004/12/04 Sat PM 11:35:30 GMT
> > To: h-costume@indra.com (Historical Costume)
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] somewhat OT: help with china
> head doll
> > 
> > Hi Rebecca,
> > 
> > I've collected china head dolls for years and have
> many reference books (and about 80 dolls), I'm
> guessing from your descriptions that the one you
> have is probably c.1870's (a china head with
> earrings that was earlier would likely have smooth
> center parted hair not curly), it's hard to tell
> without a photo though. If you want to send me one
> or post one somewhere I'll be glad to take a
> look........
> > 
> > Perry
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


		
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Dec  5 03:52:08 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dream projekt
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I'm glad that I'm not the only one who gets bored just before I finish! 
Many have asked why I make garments from different eras - they ask why 
don't  I just specialise in one era? My reply is that once I've 
finished a garment I get a bit bored by that era and want to try 
something new, learn something new! I love learning so much - and every 
job I start now I find so much easier to tackle. Its like our dance 
teaching - people ask - what is historical ballroom? (We teach 
Renaissance, Baroque, Georgian, Regency, and Victorian dances) What 
will I learn? My reply is "You'll learn HOW to dance". One frustrating 
guy replied, but I want to learn to cha cha, will you teach me the cha 
cha? How can I learn the cha cha when you just say I'll learn to 
dance". Its just like sewing - you learn so much by learning what came 
before your period. Also back to dance -  we're learning Baroque Dance 
for displaying and teaching - and its improved our English Country 
Dancing so much!
Sorry about all my chatting - I've just returned from a dance workshop!
Aylwen
http://www.earthlydelights.com.au


On Sunday, December 5, 2004, at 06:57 AM, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Hi,
> I think that all projekts i have done is a dream projekt.
> In order to make all your best efforts, you have to be in love with 
> your work, and i think i am that, when i make new things.
> Off cause there are some hurddles, it often also gets boring when you 
> have tryed the most in the projekt, and you have to kick yourself to 
> finish it.
> My current projekt, the dress with stumpwork chenille roses is great 
> fun right now, but i know already that it will be boring soon. Soon i 
> have finished the stomacher, and i have to spend the rest of the work 
> in doing tedious tedious rose and leave stumpwork leaves. I need to 
> make 45 roses wich have 4 leaves each, together with 102 green leaves.
> And i cant give it up because it is a permission work.
> When i get pensioned in about 10 years, and hopefully are well yeat 
> and still lives, i want to make big embroidered wall hangings in free 
> form embroidery. I dream of making some of my own pictures inspired 
> from the danish history...............
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>

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References: <5.1.0.14.2.20041203211411.014958b0@mail.suziclarke.co.uk><20041203210602.72238.qmail@web51409.mail.yahoo.com><200412031903.iB3J2HoQ058902@net.indra.com>
	<5.1.0.14.2.20041203234736.014959e0@mail.suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinkes?
Date: Sun, 5 Dec 2004 19:53:33 +1100
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<snip>
> By the way, the kind of pinking I mean is not done with scissors or
shears,
> but is decorative, as in Elizabethan clothes, and 18th and 19th century
> dress trimming. I have some of the tools of my own, but am looking for a
> different one.
>
> Suzi

Oh do you mean the decorative hole punch type of pinking, well that's not
all that likely to fray a lot and in period the solution would be gum arabic
(as people have mentioned) or sometimes wax, this of course meant it
couldn't be washed but most of the outer garments were rarely washed anyway.
Elizabeth

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinkes?
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At 19:53 05/12/2004 +1100, you wrote:
><snip>
> > By the way, the kind of pinking I mean is not done with scissors or
>shears,
> > but is decorative, as in Elizabethan clothes, and 18th and 19th century
> > dress trimming. I have some of the tools of my own, but am looking for a
> > different one.
> >
> > Suzi
>
>Oh do you mean the decorative hole punch type of pinking, well that's not
>all that likely to fray a lot and in period the solution would be gum arabic
>(as people have mentioned) or sometimes wax, this of course meant it
>couldn't be washed but most of the outer garments were rarely washed anyway.


The eighteenth and nineteenth century pinking is on the edges of fabric, 
and does fray, as my experience shows. If you cut slashes into fabric, that 
too can fray depending on the fabric. Even hole punch holes can fray on 
some materials - you can see it on original garments. I know about all the 
stuff you can use, but to modern eyes an edge of gum arabic or Fraycheck is 
not pretty, and unless you have the opportunity of one-to-one conversations 
with MOPs they can think you have done something modern and wrong. I know 
that fabrics weren't washed *then* but so many people nowadays expect to be 
able to have their costumes cleaned in some way, that this has to be taken 
into account. (Incidentally, Fraycheck can cause some fabrics to "bleed" 
colour", so beware.)

Suzi


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Subject: [h-cost] Slightly OT: Paternoster-Row.org
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Strictly speaking, this is about accessories rather than costume as 
such, but I thought people might be interested. At least paternosters 
contain fiber, in the form of strings and tassels :)

O-oooooooooo-O-oooooooooo-O-oooooooooo-O-oooooooooo-O-oooooooooo-O

 From at least as early as A.D. 1000, rosaries, paternosters or 
similar strings of prayer beads have been a common accessory carried 
by men and women, old and young. Indeed, the small round objects we 
know in English as beads were named from this practice; the root of 
the English word _bead_ is the same as for the word _bid_, and 
originally meant "to pray or request."

Paternoster-Row <http://paternoster-row.org> is a website about the 
history of medieval rosary beads, paternosters, and prayer beads, 
with illustrations, replicas, and bibliography. Abundant references 
to existing paintings, surviving medieval beads, and source documents 
help the careful researcher tell what is known and what is legendary 
or mythical. Discussions illuminate many of the different types of 
beads and rosaries popular in the Middle Ages and Renaissance. 
Replicas of historical rosaries in authentic materials show what the 
originals may have looked like when new, and descriptions of how 
these were made may inspire you to make your own.

New every week, the Paternosters Blog 
<http://paternosters.blogspot.com>, linked from the Paternoster-row 
webpage, has observations on historical rosaries, paternosters and 
other forms of prayer beads, focusing on those in use before 1600AD, 
but including comments on modern trends as well. Recent short 
articles include "Ring around the rosary" (history of rosary rings), 
"News of the Weird" (some modern rosaries of odd materials), "Up 
against the wall"  (large rosaries as wall ornaments), "Counting to 
ten" (the Renaissance men's short rosary or "tenner"), "String, or 
nothing" (the materials medieval rosaries were strung on), and 
"Rosaries for Ren Faire" (on finding appropriate rosaries for 
16th-century Renaissance characters). Comments are welcome!

O-oooooooooo-O-oooooooooo-O-oooooooooo-O-oooooooooo-O-oooooooooo-O

-- 
____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>  -   Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
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From: purplkat@optonline.net
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Two observations: was Books early-mid 1500s
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Suzi,

maybe you can help me --I am trying to get documentation of a particular style of Houplenade (sp?).

I have a few pics: 
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/15th/panofsky250a.jpg
and 
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/15th/trivickp1135.jpg
http:/www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/15th/evansp1131c.jpg

I would love a better - larger? copy of 
http://utronto.ca/stmikes/courses/christianity/nether2.html
(the dress of the patron in the Catheryne of Cleves Book of Hours)

I only have a small b&w photocopy of an illustration from Heures de Paris 1400-1410 (Paris, Biblotheque Nationale, Latin 1161) And it has no notation of which illustration it is, just where it came from - SIGH!

AND
http:www.kfki.hu/~arthp/support/viewer/1.html

and of course
http://humanities.uchicago.edu/images/heures/april.jpg
(the lady in the far right of the image)

Are these particular Houplenades (sp?) all alegorical? or if I make one with this type of collar will I be making a faux pas?

I live in a small town with a very limited library... Also, I don't know what books to look for for this type of outfit.

Thanks for any help
Katheryne

----- Original Message -----
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
> 
> Just a few comments. I still think pictorial evidence is valid if 
> you have books from all over, and can compare. I have, so I do!! Living in 
> England I have access to lots of European publications, many in English 
> translation, and many of which are not on regular book lists. I think after 
> more than 30 years, I know how to compare. 
> 
> Suzi

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Two observations: was Books early-mid 1500s
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At 15:21 05/12/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Suzi,
>
>maybe you can help me --I am trying to get documentation of a particular 
>style of Houplenade (sp?).
>
>I have a few pics:
>http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/15th/panofsky250a.jpg
>and
>http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/15th/trivickp1135.jpg
>http:/www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/15th/evansp1131c.jpg
>
>I would love a better - larger? copy of
>http://utronto.ca/stmikes/courses/christianity/nether2.html
>(the dress of the patron in the Catheryne of Cleves Book of Hours)
>
>I only have a small b&w photocopy of an illustration from Heures de Paris 
>1400-1410 (Paris, Biblotheque Nationale, Latin 1161) And it has no 
>notation of which illustration it is, just where it came from - SIGH!
>
>AND
>http:www.kfki.hu/~arthp/support/viewer/1.html
>
>and of course
>http://humanities.uchicago.edu/images/heures/april.jpg
>(the lady in the far right of the image)
>
>Are these particular Houplenades (sp?) all alegorical? or if I make one 
>with this type of collar will I be making a faux pas?
>
>I live in a small town with a very limited library... Also, I don't know 
>what books to look for for this type of outfit.
>
>Thanks for any help
>Katheryne


I can only "see" the first and last references you give unfortunately. 
However, I know these houppelandes, and they are perfectly ordinary, 
regular everyday clothes, not allegorical at all. You can find a pattern 
for a V neck houppelande in  "Period Costume for Stage and Screen Medieval 
to 1500" by Jean Hunnisett, published by Players Press, which you could 
alter.(If you cannot buy it locally -  Barnes and Noble stock it, although 
they may tell you they don't - the publisher will take orders from 
individuals. I will see what other images I can find for you.

The first one is from a fireplace in Amsterdam, a series of 10 figures, all 
in clothes worn by the middle and upper classes. They are now in the 
Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam.You could also look for Mary, or M.G. Houston, 
"Medieval Costume in England and France".where I think there are other 
references to this style of costume. I also think maybe the Devonshire 
Hunting Tapestries may have this style too.

More if I can think of anything.

Suzi


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 09:55:00 2004
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] stomacher stays and such.......
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Hi the list,
I thoaght you would like to see how i progress with my work. The stomacher 
is 2/3 finished and i am starting to make the stays to fit the dress. 
Wissner have made boning only 4 mm. wide, and this gives me the opportunity 
to make the stays look like the beautifull red wool stays in Costume in 
Detail. I am going to make the stays in red silk taffeta, and i think i have 
enough taffeta, so that i could make the pannier in red taffeta 
two..........
The stitching is made in ivory silk sewing thread.....
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/chenillestumpwork.htm

Bjarne



Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: [h-cost] Medieval Life and Leisure in the Devonshire Hunting
	Tapestries (Victoria and Albert Museum Studies) 
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Hi all
I have been feeling rather sorry for myself, having gone down with a
bug just when I should have been off to a party, but at least I have
something to read in my sickbed:

Medieval Life and Leisure in the Devonshire Hunting Tapestries
(Victoria and Albert Museum Studies)  Linda Woolley 2002
ISBN: 0810966018

Much of it is devoted to costuming issues, and whilst there are
undoubted fantasy elements in the tapestries it would appear that the
V&A, at least, does not conclude that these make the portrayals of
most of the figures unreliable. And, of course, they are stunningly
beautiful...
best wishes
Stevie


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Subject: [h-cost] Maler painting--early 16thC Polish/Hungarian styles
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I've been staring at a painting of a gown I'd like to make for a while:
http://www.museothyssen.org/ingles/museovirtual/fichas/obraampliada.asp?codigo=609
or in snipped form:
http://snipurl.com/b5pp

(X-post apologies) I've got a lot of rambling here, describing my thoughts 
in trying to figure this gown out. However, if you want to skip it, here's 
my main question: what does the rest of this gown look like, and what part 
of the world might have other gowns in this style?

The sitter is Anne of Hungary and Bohemia, painted in 1519 by Hans Maler, a 
Tyrolese painter.  Anne was of a Polish royal family; her father ruled 
Hungary and Bohemia, and she married Ferdinand of the Habsburgs in 1521. 
Hungary and Bohemia was squeezed in between Austria, a zillion small 
Germanic states of the Holy Empire, and the Turks, so there are all sorts of 
interesting influences there, but.... Whether this is a Polish style, or a 
Hungarian style, or a Bohemian style, or a Tyrolese style, or an Austrian 
style or etcetcetc I do not know!  I do know that it's not like anything 
else I'm seeing at this time period and that before I can make it, I really 
need to see at least one or two other vaguely similar things!

Based on her history, it would appear that she's most likely to be wearing 
the styles of Hungary and Bohemia (which as far as I can tell, was regarded 
as one nation at this time). So, I've been looking at Hungarian works from 
this time, and the styles don't look one bit like Germanic styles--which was 
the first widely-researched area I thought to check, even though apart from 
the hat, nothing about this gown looks Germanic. At least, not c1520 
Germanic. I'm not sure exactly whose styles I'd say the Hungarian stuff I've 
seen DOES look like; perhaps a mix of French and German, but 10-30 years 
behind the times. (For example, I'm seeing v-necked gowns in the 1510s, with 
center front bust pleats like 1470s-90s German gowns!) However, most art 
available from Hungary at this time is heavily religious and allegorical, 
and to me looks like a bunch of not-so-great copies of noticeably earlier 
Franco-Flemish art. In other words, not terribly helpful.

However, if the styles of the general area was as behind the times as the 
paintings suggest, it wouldn't seem too odd to me if this was more of an 
A-line dress, with no waist seam--my favorite style. And since it's my 
favorite, I may be seeing it where it's not. However, in Hungarian art in 
the early 16thC I am seeing my favorite no-waist-seam square-necked styles, 
so it may not be impossible. My main confusion, of course, is what the gown 
would have looked like from the waist down.  On this gown, there are a few 
hints about what might lie below the waist, and to me they spell no waist 
seam. The waist curve on her side is not the sort of curve you see with a 
waist seam; with a waist seam you don't see it curve out _above_ the waist, 
at least not that high up. Also, the gold trim continues below her hands, in 
a line with what's above, but not at the center front as though it were 
trimming a split.

I know that fashionable German styles at this time had waist seams. But this 
is not exactly a painting of a typical German fashion by a typical German 
painter; you can tell that just by looking. It's nothing like the typical 
Germanic fashions of 1519. Anne was Polish and grew up in Hungary and 
Bohemia; she certainly wouldn't have looked like a Saxon princess. Maler, 
however, was influenced by Durer, so perhaps Durer's paintings are worth 
looking at.

I'm not saying my mind is completely closed to anything involving waist 
seams. By no means! I'm just saying that the typical German Ren styles, to 
my eye, don't seem to apply to this particular gown, which is my problem in 
the first place! Unfortunately, what it DOES most remind me of is styles 
from western Europe in the 2nd half of the 16thC. Or perhaps early 16thC 
Spain; Anne was engaged to Ferdinand at the time of the painting, and 
Ferdinand was raised in Spain, and a similar neck treatment can be seen in 
Spain at around the same time.

Enough rambling. Waist seam? No waist seam? Pointy bodice? Straight across? 
Trim placement? Austrian influence? Spanish influence? Any ideas?

-E the dehydrated

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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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	<5.1.0.14.2.20041205085819.01496350@mail.suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinkes?
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 2004 09:38:17 +1100
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<snip>
> The eighteenth and nineteenth century pinking is on the edges of fabric,
> and does fray, as my experience shows. If you cut slashes into fabric,
that
> too can fray depending on the fabric. Even hole punch holes can fray on
> some materials - you can see it on original garments. I know about all the
> stuff you can use, but to modern eyes an edge of gum arabic or Fraycheck
is
> not pretty, and unless you have the opportunity of one-to-one
conversations
> with MOPs they can think you have done something modern and wrong. I know
> that fabrics weren't washed *then* but so many people nowadays expect to
be
> able to have their costumes cleaned in some way, that this has to be taken
> into account. (Incidentally, Fraycheck can cause some fabrics to "bleed"
> colour", so beware.)
>
> Suzi

Ah well my research only goes as far as 1600 and as you mentioned
Elizabethan I thought of the way the term was used in the 16th century. The
only other solutions I can think of is that iron on non-woven interfacing or
binding the cut edges with something (thread, or fabric). Of course some
period garments were simply allowed to fray but if people are going to have
a problem with seeing gum Arabic on the cut edges they will have just as
much of a problem with it fraying.
Sorry I can't offer a better solution
Elizabeth
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Beaumont              Elizabeth Walpole
             in                         OR                 in
Politarchopolis, Lochac        Canberra, Australia
             ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Books early-mid 1500s??
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Hi Suzi,

At 03:15 PM 12/4/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>C.W and P. Cunnington "Handbook of English Costume in the 16th Century

I have been trying to get a copy of this book, within my budget. It just 
goes for higher on eBay. Thankfully a friend can loan me his now and then.

>James Laver, "Early Tudor 1485- 1558" Lots of large black and white 
>pictures. (Costume of th eWeatern World Series)

Thank you. I hunted this down tonight and it is on its way soon (I hope).

>G. Reynolds "Elizabethan and Jacobean 1558 -1625" same series as the 
>Laver, and same style

I will put this in my to-find list for later. I am trying to focus on 
earlier Tudor if possible.

>A. Blum "The Last Valois 1515-1590" same as above

Thanks for the suggestion. I found a few copies and may get this soon 
depending on the Laver book style.

>I also have a wonderful Czech book with pictures in close-up in colour, 
>but I imagine that is difficult to find - thank you E.Bay!!

Would that be _Fashions Through the Centuries, Renaissance Baroque and 
Rococo_ by Olga Sronkova? I found my copy of this book while window 
shopping in San Luis Obispo years ago, and forgot about looking there until 
you mention a Czech book.

 >I have a lot of general books with colour pictures (my costume library is 
very large) so if you have specific queries please ask me off list.

When I get down to specifics, I will let you know. Thanks for the offer. I, 
too, have many Elizabethan books, its the Henry-can books that I am trying 
to focus on.

And thank you for your list.

Kimiko

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Books early-mid 1500s??
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Hi Janet,

At 01:06 AM 12/5/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>While I'm interested in the time period you requested, I don't have much 
>interest in England.  However, here are a few books:
>
>Anderson, Ruth, Hispanic Costume 1480-1530, Hispanic Society of America, 
>1979.    This is a fantastic costume book, although there is not a great 
>deal after 1500.  It is currently in print, just hard to find.

Thank you. I found several copies at very disparate price tags, and 
currently out of my budget. But it is now on my wish list.

>De Lasarte, Joan, Catalan Painting: From Gothic Splendor to the Baroque, 
>Skira/Rizzoli, 1991.    There isn't much in here for the years you are 
>interested in, but there is a good reproduction of one of my favorite 
>outfits from about the 1520's - a yellow dress covered with red ribbons 
>and bag sleeves.

Hmmm... that's interesting, especially the description given at Amazon.com 
about stained glass.

>Kybalova, L., Herbenova, O. & Lamarova, M., The Pictorial Encyclopedia of 
>Fashion, Paul Hamlyn, 1968.       This is similar to the Davenport book, 
>with lots of B/W photos of art from all over Europe.

This seems familiar to me... but I don't know why.

>Van Os, H., Kok, J., Luijten, G. & Scholten, F., Netherlandish Art in the 
>Rijksmuseum 1400-1600, Waanders Publishers, 2000.         This is actually 
>currently in print.

I found it listed at Amazon, but it's frustrating that there's no info on 
what's inside. If you hadn't suggested it, I don't think I would have ever 
noticed. Ah, I see you carry it, but the price is a bit out of my current 
budget. Maybe after Christmas is over I can get it. I love books, but I 
hate being on a budget.

>Janet
>
>
>
>Janet Davis
>Castle Furnishings
>www.medievalbookstore.com


Thanks so much Janet. I really appreciate your suggestions.

Kimiko


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Books early-mid 1500s??
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At 05:39 PM 12/3/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>The Book of Costume, by Millia Davenport.  The pictures are black and 
>white, with a couple of color plates stuck in there, but it has the 
>greatest number of costume images per period of any book I've ever seen, 
>with no re-drawings (perhaps 2200 images in all).  There are even small 
>articles on the life and times of several periods in certain countries, 
>and of things like pocket watches.
>
>        CarolynKayta Barrows
>dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
>          www.FunStuft.com


Ah, yes, I recently got that book. I didn't know about the pocket watches 
until I saw them in there, and was just amazed at how appropriate some 
modern versions could be.

Thanks,

Kimiko


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Books early-mid 1500s??
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At 02:41 PM 12/4/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Why yes.. I brain sparked and thought 15th century.. oops.
>
>There are some English monumental brasses shown from the early 16th
>century in this book.
>
>Catalogue of Rubbings of Brasses and Incised Slabs by Muriel Clayton
>(1979 Victoria and Albert Museum)
>
>I also have a book in French that I bought at the Musee Cluny.  I do not
>know if this book comes in an English format or not.  It has many very
>nice images of early 16th century French dress in many tapestries.
>
>La tapisserie medievale au Musee de Cluny, by Fabienne Joubert.
>
>Now in the right century.
>Annette


Thanks Annette for your suggestions, in either centuries. I had forgotten 
about brasses and slabs.

Kimiko

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Subject: [h-cost] Late 13th-14th C. Jewelry
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Greetings,
  I couldn't seem to find clear info about this subject.  What did a man or
woman wear for jewelry during the late 13th - 14th century.  Did women wear
earrings?  My persona is a middle class woman.  Thanks for any info.

Roscelin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost]searching for  Books  ( was: early-mid 1500s??) 
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Kimiko Small wrote:

> Hi Suzi,
> 
> At 03:15 PM 12/4/2004 +0000, you wrote:
> 
>> C.W and P. Cunnington "Handbook of English Costume in the 16th Century
> 
> 
> I have been trying to get a copy of this book, within my budget. It just 
> goes for higher on eBay. Thankfully a friend can loan me his now and then.
> 

Here's a fairly inexpensive ex-library copy: 
http://dogbert.abebooks.com/abe/BookDetails?bi=351654592


Ebay can be great for books sometimes, and absolutely the worst place at 
other times. It seems that books either go for pennies, or people pay 
way more than retail or the going price for it. If I see something 
interesting on Ebay I always do a book search to see what the going rate 
is. In my last book-buying frenzy I saved myself enough to buy a couple 
more titles by comparison shopping.

Another tip, Halloween is a great time to find costume books. All the 
little ebay sellers who may have picked up one or two costume books for 
resale will list them in September and October. And a lot of them go for 
pennies, the seller bought it for $2 at a yard sale and only wants $4 
for it, where a costumer will list the same book for half of retail, or 
the going Amazon price. It's also a good time to find weird little 
pamphlets from museums and historical societies that sellers just don't 
list at other times of the year.



Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Houps was: Two observations: was Books early-mid 1500s
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Suzi Clarke wrote:
> I can only "see" the first and last references you give unfortunately. 
> However, I know these houppelandes, and they are perfectly ordinary, 
> regular everyday clothes, not allegorical at all.

I agree.

I've got some musings about houps at: 
http://www.virtue.to/articles/circle_houp.html

> references to this style of costume. I also think maybe the Devonshire 
> Hunting Tapestries may have this style too.

Yes, and lots of it!

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"Politically Correct" these days means "a position I don't agree with." 
  Writers should have the integrity to spell these positions out, not 
just label them with a confusing, multi-interpretable catchphrase.
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]searching for  Books  ( was: early-mid 1500s??) 
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Hi Dawn,

At 12:33 PM 12/7/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>Here's a fairly inexpensive ex-library copy: 
>http://dogbert.abebooks.com/abe/BookDetails?bi=351654592

Oh, thanks! They must have recently got this in, cause when I went looking 
for it a few weeks ago, there was nothing in my price range, and most, as 
now, being in the $50+ range. Such a small book to go for so much.

>Ebay can be great for books sometimes, and absolutely the worst place at 
>other times. It seems that books either go for pennies, or people pay way 
>more than retail or the going price for it. If I see something interesting 
>on Ebay I always do a book search to see what the going rate is. In my 
>last book-buying frenzy I saved myself enough to buy a couple more titles 
>by comparison shopping.

I try to do the same, and I shake my head and wonder at times about the 
pricing on eBay, compared to other sources.

>Another tip, Halloween is a great time to find costume books. All the 
>little ebay sellers who may have picked up one or two costume books for 
>resale will list them in September and October. And a lot of them go for 
>pennies, the seller bought it for $2 at a yard sale and only wants $4 for 
>it, where a costumer will list the same book for half of retail, or the 
>going Amazon price. It's also a good time to find weird little pamphlets 
>from museums and historical societies that sellers just don't list at 
>other times of the year.
>
>Dawn

Thanks for that tip as well. You are quite wonderful in your suggestions.

Kimiko

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 13th-14th C. Jewelry
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>   I couldn't seem to find clear info about this subject.  What did a man
or
> woman wear for jewelry during the late 13th - 14th century.  Did women
wear
> earrings?

Not that I know of. The only jewelry I do know about for a fact were annular
brooches, that were worn at the neck of the gown to keep the edges together.
There almost ubiquitous. And rings. Also, woven belts with lots of metal
fixings.
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Late 13th-14th C. Jewelry
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  You know, somebody just started a website about that:

http://paternosters.home.igc.org/

Liadain

-----Original Message-----
From: Betsy Marshall <betsy@softwareinnovation.com>
Sent: Dec 7, 2004 4:49 PM
To: 'Historical Costume' <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Late 13th-14th C. Jewelry

So, when did rosaries come into use/fashion? I thought they were as
widespread as the church? Pyro


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So, when did rosaries come into use/fashion? I thought they were as
widespread as the church? Pyro

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Audrey Bergeron-Morin
Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 2004 4:54 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 13th-14th C. Jewelry

>   I couldn't seem to find clear info about this subject.  What did a
man
or
> woman wear for jewelry during the late 13th - 14th century.  Did women
wear
> earrings?

Not that I know of. The only jewelry I do know about for a fact were
annular
brooches, that were worn at the neck of the gown to keep the edges
together.
There almost ubiquitous. And rings. Also, woven belts with lots of metal
fixings.
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Books early-mid 1500s??
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Kimiko,

	Have you tried Bookfinder.com or Alibris.com to find the Cunnington?  I
just picked it up for $30 there at Suzi's suggestion.  I wouldn't have
thought of looking on E-Bay for a book I wanted- thanks for the idea!

Regina Romsey/Wanda Pease
Some people are like Slinkies . . . not really good for anything, but you
still can't help but giggle when you see one tumble down the stairs.


> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Kimiko Small
> Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 2004 1:15 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Books early-mid 1500s??
>
>
> Hi Suzi,
>
> At 03:15 PM 12/4/2004 +0000, you wrote:
> >C.W and P. Cunnington "Handbook of English Costume in the 16th Century
>
> I have been trying to get a copy of this book, within my budget. It just
> goes for higher on eBay. Thankfully a friend can loan me his now and then.
>
>

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]searching for  Books  ( was: early-mid 1500s??)
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On Tuesday 07 December 2004 1:33 pm, Dawn wrote:
[snip]
> Ebay can be great for books sometimes, and absolutely the worst place at
> other times. It seems that books either go for pennies, or people pay
> way more than retail or the going price for it. If I see something
> interesting on Ebay I always do a book search to see what the going rate
> is. In my last book-buying frenzy I saved myself enough to buy a couple
> more titles by comparison shopping.

Addall.com has a feature that will let you run the addall search you just did 
on EBay.  It only works on some browsers (or on some browser settings--I 
think I can't use it at home because of my security settings).  I use the 
prices I get on addall as a guide when I go shopping for used costume books 
on Ebay. 

>
> Another tip, Halloween is a great time to find costume books. All the
> little ebay sellers who may have picked up one or two costume books for
> resale will list them in September and October. And a lot of them go for
> pennies, the seller bought it for $2 at a yard sale and only wants $4
> for it, where a costumer will list the same book for half of retail, or
> the going Amazon price. It's also a good time to find weird little
> pamphlets from museums and historical societies that sellers just don't
> list at other times of the year.

I didn't know that.  Thanks. That's very useful to know.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Late 13th-14th C. Jewelry
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On Tuesday 07 December 2004 1:23 pm, roscelin wrote:
> Greetings,
>   I couldn't seem to find clear info about this subject.  What did a man or
> woman wear for jewelry during the late 13th - 14th century.  Did women wear
> earrings?  My persona is a middle class woman.  Thanks for any info.

Based on my recollection, very little.  Late 13th-early 14thc female fashions 
tend to be flowing and to cover neck and ears, precluding earrings and 
necklaces. 

 In general, jewelry during this period was confined to brooches (a small one, 
perhaps, to close a dress or a larger one for a cloak), finger rings, and 
perhaps an ornamental belt buckle for women, and mostly just finger rings 
(with or without precious stones), cloak brooches and belt buckles for men.  
Later in the 14th c., necklines went down for women, and in general necklaces 
for women and big neck chains or  jeweled "collars" for men became popular, 
in addition to the above.  By then, men might also wear a brooch on their 
hats.  

You don't see earring wearing, though, until well into the 16th century in 
northern Europe (I think necklaces and earrings became fashionable much 
earlier in the Mediterranean countries, but if memory serves me it doesn't 
show up even there in the 13th century).  

This site attempts to give a broad overview, with pictorial examples (some of 
which refused to display for me:)

http://www.ceu.hu/medstud/manual/SRM/types.htm

None of this, so far as I know, is true of the eastern reaches of Europe 
(e.g., Russia and Byzantium).  Russian women wore metal rings and ornaments 
of various kinds on elaborate headdresses or (in the case of maidens, in 
their hair), and huge necklaces and wide jeweled collars were a common 
ornament.  I do know of one web site that discusses Russian jewelry, at least 
for women, in this period:

http://www.strangelove.net/~kieser/Russia/KWCjewel.html

I'm told the definitive book on medieval jewelry in question is Medieval 
Jewellery, by Ronald Lightbown, but I've never been fortunate enough to 
locate a copy.  

Good luck!

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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Date: Tue, 7 Dec 2004 19:01:47 -0800
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From: Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Late 13th-14th C. Jewelry
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At 5:49 PM -0600 12/7/04, Betsy Marshall wrote:
>So, when did rosaries come into use/fashion? I thought they were as
>widespread as the church? Pyro

  I could swear that Chris posted the url here for her rosary history 
pages a day or two ago.  Try <http://paternosters.blogspot.com/> and 
<http://www.paternoster-row.org/>

Heather
-- 
****
Heather Rose Jones
heather.jones@earthlink.net
****
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Late 13th-14th C. Jewelry
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On Tue, 7 Dec 2004, Frank and Tracy Thallas wrote:

>   You know, somebody just started a website about that:
> 
> http://paternosters.home.igc.org/

Chris Laning, the best expert I know in medieval paternosters, just
announced her website on the same topic on this list a few days ago. It's
here:

http://paternoster-row.org

I think she runs a yahoo-group on the topic, too. (Chris, are you
reading?)

--Robin




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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Late 13th-14th C. Jewelry
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At 9:55 PM -0500 12/7/04, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
>On Tuesday 07 December 2004 1:23 pm, roscelin wrote:
>>  Greetings,
>>    I couldn't seem to find clear info about this subject.  What did a man or
>>  woman wear for jewelry during the late 13th - 14th century.  Did women wear
>>  earrings?  My persona is a middle class woman.  Thanks for any info.
>
>Based on my recollection, very little.  Late 13th-early 14thc female fashions
>tend to be flowing and to cover neck and ears, precluding earrings and
>necklaces.
>
>  In general, jewelry during this period was confined to brooches (a small one,
>perhaps, to close a dress or a larger one for a cloak), finger rings, and
>perhaps an ornamental belt buckle for women, and mostly just finger rings
>(with or without precious stones), cloak brooches and belt buckles for men. 
>Later in the 14th c., necklines went down for women, and in general necklaces
>for women and big neck chains or  jeweled "collars" for men became popular,
>in addition to the above.  By then, men might also wear a brooch on their
>hats.
>
>I'm told the definitive book on medieval jewelry in question is Medieval
>Jewellery, by Ronald Lightbown, but I've never been fortunate enough to
>locate a copy.

It is. It's huge, lovely, and incredibly expensive. It was $200 when 
it was (too briefly) in print, and immediately shot up to $500-600 as 
soon as it went out of print. Fortunately, my local university 
library has a copy.

I happened to be re-reading a couple of chapters recently and ran 
across a note or two. The chapter "Secular and Religious Gifts of 
Jewellery" details the gifts given to and from a number of (mostly 
royal and ducal) personages mostly in the 14th and 15th centuries, 
with occasional earlier pieces. Betrothal and bridal gifts, love 
tokens and New Year's gifts (in some places) seem to have been the 
major occasions.

It's noted that generally unmarried girls wore little jewelry -- 
except in certain areas:

"...there were two schools of thought in mediaeval Europe. By far the 
larger school believed that maidenly modesty and simplicity of attire 
were alone proper to a maiden, but another, vocal only in certain 
regions and cities of Spain and Italy so far as we can tell, opined 
that a maiden needed to be richly garbed and jewelled in order to 
attract suitors. In some places, fourteenth-century Barcelona for 
example, the sumptuary laws would for this reason allow unmarried 
girls a sumptuousness of dress and ornaments that was rigorously 
forbidden after marriage...." (p.68)

As for brides and married women:

"...As we have seen, the giving of jewellery to a bride first on 
betrothal and then on marriage was a recognized social custom 
throughout Western Europe, and in most countries it seems also to 
have been expected that either her family or the bridegroom should 
provide her with the ornaments suitable to her standing as a married 
woman. In addition to these, the bridegroom must often have given the 
bride-to-be some personal token of love -- usually a brooch or a ring 
-- and most of the ring brooches which bear lover's inscriptions were 
surely gifts of this kind, or gifts made in the years following 
marriage, before the young girl had grown into a serious and 
dignified matron, whose prime ornaments were a girdle and 
paternoster."

The book generally focuses on the 14th and 15th centuries, and 
discusses in detail such things as rings, brooches, paternoster beads 
(the best single source in English on the subject, IMHO), pomanders, 
mirrors, girdle ornaments and decorated girdle-ends, collars (2 
chapters), dress and head ornaments, et cetera. There are abundant 
citations of period documents such as wills and inventories, and a 
superb selection of color photos at the end. Try to get your hands on 
it through inter-library loan.

(And yes, that's my rosary page Heather mentioned. It's a small site 
now, but will grow..... and you're welcome to join the mailing list 
and to ask questions.)
-- 
____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>  -   Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
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At 05:26 PM 12/7/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>Kimiko,
>
>         Have you tried Bookfinder.com or Alibris.com to find the 
> Cunnington?  I
>just picked it up for $30 there at Suzi's suggestion.  I wouldn't have
>thought of looking on E-Bay for a book I wanted- thanks for the idea!
>
>Regina Romsey/Wanda Pease
>Some people are like Slinkies . . . not really good for anything, but you
>still can't help but giggle when you see one tumble down the stairs.


Hi Regina/Wanda,

Dawn found a relatively inexpensive copy at abebooks, so I ordered that 
one, along with a book for my husband that he's been waiting almost a year 
for from Amazon (and never got, even tho it was listed as "in stock" twice).

Thanks for the suggestions on other book finder sites. I was not aware of 
them until now.

Kimiko

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]searching for  Books  ( was: early-mid 1500s??)
In-Reply-To: <200412072104.57342.cathy@thyrsus.com>
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At 09:04 PM 12/7/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Addall.com has a feature that will let you run the addall search you just did
>on EBay.  It only works on some browsers (or on some browser settings--I
>think I can't use it at home because of my security settings).  I use the
>prices I get on addall as a guide when I go shopping for used costume books
>on Ebay.


Hi Cathy,

Thanks so much for sharing this site. I really like the comparison features 
it offers, including descriptors. Very handy site.

Kimiko


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Late 13th-14th C. Jewelry
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Hi all

You might also add to the booklist

Medieval Goldsmith's Work
Isa Bella Barsili
Hamlyn, 1969

It covers non-jewellery items as well, of course, and a lengthy time
span, but there are 71 colour plates so it's well worth a look if you
can find it!

The Hunting Tapestries are just after your period, but there are
similarities in decoration to items shown in earlier manuscripts. The
vast jewelled collars probably fall into our notion of jewellery, but
other items are alien to us; for example, covering an entire sleeve in
silver teardrops, or long falls of tiny bells in gold.

Lastly, bear in mind that English English and US English use different
spellings for jewellery; this makes quite a difference to web
searches:-)

best wishes
Stevie


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Subject: [h-cost] BBC "North and South"
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The list seems pretty quiet, so I'll start a new thread -

Anyone in the UK see the recent dramatisation of Mrs. Gaskell's "North
and South"? I thought the costumes were good so far as my limited
knowledge of Victorian fashions goes, but what really annoyed me was the
social gaffes in the climactic scene. The hero and heroine are in trains
travelling in opposite directions; they spot one another at a station,
get out onto the platform and sit on a seat where they are soon kissing
passionately. She is hatless, he in his shirtsleeves with open collar.
Quite apart from the impropriety of a lady and gentleman behaving so
uninhibitedly in public, I'm sure a gentleman of the 1850s would not
have sat in a railway carriage informally dressed, whatever the weather.
Some modern writers of adaptations seem to feel that the  viewer won't
get the point unless the characters behave as modern people would.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] BBC "North and South"
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At 14:57 08/12/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>The list seems pretty quiet, so I'll start a new thread -
>
>Anyone in the UK see the recent dramatisation of Mrs. Gaskell's "North
>and South"? I thought the costumes were good so far as my limited
>knowledge of Victorian fashions goes, but what really annoyed me was the
>social gaffes in the climactic scene. The hero and heroine are in trains
>travelling in opposite directions; they spot one another at a station,
>get out onto the platform and sit on a seat where they are soon kissing
>passionately. She is hatless, he in his shirtsleeves with open collar.
>Quite apart from the impropriety of a lady and gentleman behaving so
>uninhibitedly in public, I'm sure a gentleman of the 1850s would not
>have sat in a railway carriage informally dressed, whatever the weather.
>Some modern writers of adaptations seem to feel that the  viewer won't
>get the point unless the characters behave as modern people would.




I was very unhappy about the costumes - the poor heroine had only one hat, 
and I didn't think that was too brilliant. The hero's sister seemed to have 
dropped in from about 10 years later - make that 20, as I am sure I saw a 
bustle. You could see the crinolines under the heroine's skirts! And why 
was there no lace collar on her plain dresses - that is something you never 
see in fashion plates - an uncovered neckline. And as for the makeup! And 
there were a lot of social gaffs - no gloves at dinner? Tut!! And the scene 
at the railway station, while wonderfully romantic, just would never have 
happened. (And how did she get her entire wardrobe into a carpet bag? I 
wish I knew the trick of it - would be great for going on holiday!)

Suzi (really enjoying picking faults!)


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] BBC "North and South"
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Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote
>At 14:57 08/12/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>>The list seems pretty quiet, so I'll start a new thread -
>>
>>Anyone in the UK see the recent dramatisation of Mrs. Gaskell's "North
>>and South"? I thought the costumes were good so far as my limited
>>knowledge of Victorian fashions goes, but what really annoyed me was the
>>social gaffes in the climactic scene. The hero and heroine are in trains
>>travelling in opposite directions; they spot one another at a station,
>>get out onto the platform and sit on a seat where they are soon kissing
>>passionately. She is hatless, he in his shirtsleeves with open collar.
>>Quite apart from the impropriety of a lady and gentleman behaving so
>>uninhibitedly in public, I'm sure a gentleman of the 1850s would not
>>have sat in a railway carriage informally dressed, whatever the weather.
>>Some modern writers of adaptations seem to feel that the  viewer won't
>>get the point unless the characters behave as modern people would.
>
>
>
>
>I was very unhappy about the costumes - the poor heroine had only one 
>hat, and I didn't think that was too brilliant. The hero's sister 
>seemed to have dropped in from about 10 years later - make that 20, as 
>I am sure I saw a bustle. You could see the crinolines under the 
>heroine's skirts! And why was there no lace collar on her plain dresses 
>- that is something you never see in fashion plates - an uncovered 
>neckline. And as for the makeup! And there were a lot of social gaffs - 
>no gloves at dinner? Tut!! And the scene at the railway station, while 
>wonderfully romantic, just would never have happened. (And how did she 
>get her entire wardrobe into a carpet bag? I wish I knew the trick of 
>it - would be great for going on holiday!)
>
>Suzi (really enjoying picking faults!)
>
I sort of assumed that was her "cabin" baggage, which would see her 
through until she sent for the rest.  After all, she'd only been up to 
Milton for a day or so.

Does anyone know the book?  While I, too, thought the snogging was way 
out of order, I was interested that they actually met on passing trains 
like that - it must be a pretty early example, if that's what happens in 
the book?

The hero's sister was meant to be racy and extravagant, while the 
heroine was a parson's daughter, and fallen on hard times too, so there 
could certainly be quite a contrast between their clothes, but perhaps 
not as much as all that.  It's such a shame when directors don't use the 
etiquette and fashion properly, because it can add so much.  Remember 
that heart-stopping kiss on the hand in The Age of Elegance?  Possibly 
the most erotic moment in any movie, and not an inch of flesh exposed!

Jean
-- 
Jean Waddie
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Subject: [h-cost] Russian net
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Greetings all,
I am looking for direction on how to make Russian net. (or an on-line 
source)  I want to use the net in lieu of a mask for a fancy dress ball 
on New Year's.  I have found it in white or ivory, but I want dark 
green with rhinestones.

Any ideas?  thank you!

Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com
*** http://www.alfalfapress.com

I think, therefore I'm dangerous.

I'll be Post-Feminist in a Post-Patriarchy

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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Books early-mid 1500s
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Sorry for being a bit late on this thread, but I didn't see anyone mention these books:

For German my favorite is: _Early German Painting 1350-1550_ by Isolde Lübbeke (it's not in print, unfortunately)

For Italian I like: 
_Virtue and Beauty : Leonardo's Ginevra de' Benci and Renaissance Portraits of Women_ (this is in print)
_The Dress of the Venetians, 1495-1525_ by Stella Mary Newton (not really a picture book...and it doesn't look like it's still in print.)

I can't think of any that focus specifically on England or France... I generally hunt-and-peck though lots of books ... My favorite book for this time-period has been mentioned before ( _Hispanic Costume: 1480 - 1530_ by Ruth M. Anderson) but it's obviously not French or English.
 	-sunny

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Althea Turner wrote:

> Greetings all,
> I am looking for direction on how to make Russian net. (or an on-line 
> source)  I want to use the net in lieu of a mask for a fancy dress ball 
> on New Year's.  I have found it in white or ivory, but I want dark green 
> with rhinestones.

I had to search to know what it was, here's a link with pictures for 
other readers: http://www.hatboxhats.com/veil_facts_content.html

Anyway, Althea, is it dyeable?  Then you could stick on the rhinestones 
yourself.  Or maybe searching on "french net" would get you precolored. 
  Cool idea.


-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

Sweating would purge his body of whatever caused his headaches, nausea, 
and vertigo.  From time to time, he would stop and refresh himself by 
drinking a glass of elemental mercury.  -- _Quicksilver_ by Neal Stephenson
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Russian net
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Thanks!!

heh, it's not my idea.  I saw it on the Victoria's Secret advert.  
*laughs*

Althea

On Wednesday, December 8, 2004, at 04:05 PM, Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> Althea Turner wrote:
>
>> Greetings all,
>> I am looking for direction on how to make Russian net. (or an on-line 
>> source)  I want to use the net in lieu of a mask for a fancy dress 
>> ball on New Year's.  I have found it in white or ivory, but I want 
>> dark green with rhinestones.
>
> I had to search to know what it was, here's a link with pictures for 
> other readers: http://www.hatboxhats.com/veil_facts_content.html
>
> Anyway, Althea, is it dyeable?  Then you could stick on the 
> rhinestones yourself.  Or maybe searching on "french net" would get 
> you precolored.  Cool idea.
>
>
> -- 
> Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent
>
> Sweating would purge his body of whatever caused his headaches, 
> nausea, and vertigo.  From time to time, he would stop and refresh 
> himself by drinking a glass of elemental mercury.  -- _Quicksilver_ by 
> Neal Stephenson
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com
*** http://www.alfalfapress.com

I think, therefore I'm dangerous.

I'll be Post-Feminist in a Post-Patriarchy

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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On Wednesday 08 December 2004 3:28 am, Kimiko Small wrote:
> At 09:04 PM 12/7/2004 -0500, you wrote:
> >Addall.com has a feature that will let you run the addall search you just
> > did on EBay.  It only works on some browsers (or on some browser
> > settings--I think I can't use it at home because of my security
> > settings).  I use the prices I get on addall as a guide when I go
> > shopping for used costume books on Ebay.
>
> Hi Cathy,
>
> Thanks so much for sharing this site.

You're welcome.  It's my very favorite website for books.  I'm constantly 
surprised that more people don't seem to have heard of it.  

> I really like the comparison features 
> it offers, including descriptors. Very handy site.

Did you notice this feature?  You can search on addall.com for new books, too.  
If you locate the book (and unless publication has been held up or your 
information on it is wrong, you will), you can click on the title, and it 
will give you a list of all the websites where you can buy it, arranged in 
decending order by price--including shipping costs.   I like to use this 
feature to decide where I'm going to buy a new book I know that I want but 
that's very expensive.  

By the way, "new" for this purpose doesn't need to mean just hitting the 
bookstores.  If the book is still in print, you can probably get comparative 
prices by doing a "new" book search for it.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Late 13th-14th C. Jewelry
Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2004 22:18:44 -0500
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On Wednesday 08 December 2004 1:49 am, Chris Laning wrote:
> At 9:55 PM -0500 12/7/04, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
[snip]

> >I'm told the definitive book on medieval jewelry in question is Medieval
> >Jewellery, by Ronald Lightbown, but I've never been fortunate enough to
> >locate a copy.
>
> It is. It's huge, lovely, and incredibly expensive. It was $200 when
> it was (too briefly) in print, and immediately shot up to $500-600 as
> soon as it went out of print. Fortunately, my local university
> library has a copy.

Fifteen years ago, before I knew enough about historic costume to appreciate 
how hard it would be to get Lightbown's book, I had a chance to buy it from 
Edward R. Hamilton booksellers for some ridiculous price that , though low, 
looked like more than I was willing to pay at the time (around $50-$75, I 
think).  ERH generally sells remaindered books; I imagine this was right 
before it went out of print.

Thanks for the quotes.  Now that I want the book, I've yet to find a used copy 
anywhere, and I doubt I'd get to finish reading it in the time I'd be allowed 
to keep it on interlibrary loan.  :-(


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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From: "Shane & Sheridan" <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] Fancy Dress for a ball
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Found this while looking for something else, I thought others would enjoy
it:

 http://lafayette.150m.com/ple1598b.html

The descriptions of the colors sound loverly. :-)


Sheridan


~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*

The wind riz and then it blew,
the rain friz and then it snew.
Spring has sprung, the grass is riz,
I wonder where the flowers is.
Spring has sprung, fall has fell,
winter's here and it's cold as
heck.


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hi there, Althea-

Had this lurking in my bookmarks:

http://www.judithm.com/shop/?page=shop/flypage&product_id=4108&category_id=688e916ae8116e24e22b3ea83ecaab4a&

Hunter green russian veiling...tacking on the rhinestones might have to 
happen after-market though!!

Good luck,

Theresa Eacker

Althea Turner wrote:
> Greetings all,
> I am looking for direction on how to make Russian net. (or an on-line 
> source)  I want to use the net in lieu of a mask for a fancy dress ball 
> on New Year's.  I have found it in white or ivory, but I want dark green 
> with rhinestones.
> 
> Any ideas?  thank you!
> 
> Althea Turner
>

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This is why I can't bear to watch such 'dramatizations' - for heaven's sake, the book has been in print for years, it's obviously a good story, why not just do what the book says!!  If you're going to re-tell it from a modern viewpoint, what's the point of pretending to do the authentic fancy dress.
 
And did you notice that the poor downtrodden masses at t'mill were, without exception, all in muddy grey and brown.  Not a trace of colour, or even white.  Standard peasant costume...
 
And the snow wasn't even realistic - not for England.
 
I girded my loins to watch the last episode, and ended up shouting at the screen for the snog at the station scene.
 
Freyalyn, frustrated

		
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References: <00b301c4ddae$69469d60$cb6afea9@sherry>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fancy Dress for a ball
Date: Thu, 9 Dec 2004 03:44:03 -0500
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Sheridan,

I have always loved this website.  It used to be at Geocities and it would 
shut down mid-month because of overage of bandwidth usage.  It looks like 
they own their own domain name now, and I hope they have a new website host.

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com 


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: North & South
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At 00:32 09/12/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>This is why I can't bear to watch such 'dramatizations' - for heaven's 
>sake, the book has been in print for years, it's obviously a good story, 
>why not just do what the book says!!  If you're going to re-tell it from a 
>modern viewpoint, what's the point of pretending to do the authentic fancy 
>dress.
>
>And did you notice that the poor downtrodden masses at t'mill were, 
>without exception, all in muddy grey and brown.  Not a trace of colour, or 
>even white.  Standard peasant costume...
>
>And the snow wasn't even realistic - not for England.
>
>I girded my loins to watch the last episode, and ended up shouting at the 
>screen for the snog at the station scene.


I have just read the end of the story in the book, and a few odd bits here 
and there - it is on my "to read" pile at the side of the bed!! Well, I had 
not realised how much things had been changed - if I had not read it, I 
would have been surprised at some of the gaffes - now I have read bits, I 
am astonished by the alterations!! I will not comment more, as I don't want 
to "spoil" things for those of you who may not know the story, and wish to 
see the TV version for yourselves.

I think the "greying" of Milton was a designer idea - as were all the 
clothes - pity, as it could have been very good.

Suzi


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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] We are back up and happy again!
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Status: RO

YIPPEEE!!!!!!!!  I am so thrilled!  Susan and I moved all of my websites this past week... over 7,000 webpages and we don't even want to venture a guess at how many images.  We also have a new domain name for the Library, costumelibrary.com .  If you are linked to the front page of our Library, please change it when you have a chance.  Because so many people are linked to the old front page, we will keep it active.  All our other Library URLs stayed the same.

We are now on a managed server all our own.  It has so many features that we are having fun with.  We also has the fastest  servers on the web... meaning the up load time for webpages is super fast.  We have 500 gigs of bandwidth and 150 gigs of space... lots of room to grow.  I am really thrilled with the online database service.  Now I can start data entries for our Costume Encyclopedia.  The package also included a database for our subscribers for the Library Newsletter... and templates for newsletters. 

Between Jan. 1-15, we will be adding a new piece of software that our Library subscribers and Classroom students will be able to manage their own accounts and have a unique password for everything.  This is our normally when we don't have classes on-going in the Classroom.  It will be a good time to add the new software.

In Sept. while I was in England, Hurricane Ivan directly hit the business that was hosting my website.  What a mess I came home to.  When the sites came back up, the business sold our servers to a company in Tenn.  What a nightmare!  The TN company didn't know a thing about the type of servers we had.  The sites would go up and down, passwords worked and then would go down. After the sites went down during all of Halloween weekend, I had enough!  Those three days are generally my websites busiest days of the year.  Again, I was out of town at the VA Theater Convention when this happened.  When I returned from the trip, I went straight into designing costumes for 41 characters for West Side Story.  Lets just say it was the best time for the sites to be having trouble!!!!  How embarrassing!  The sites going up and down was when the article about our online classes was in Threads magazine.  

Our new server guarantees to be up 99.9% of the time. LOL!!!  They have a photo online of all the generators they have. Also they are not in hurricane territory.... my first question when interviewing them.  They are a large company and have wonderful tech support that answers the phone quickly.    

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com 
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com 
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] BBC "North and South"
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Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk 08/12/2004 22:25:19 >>>

>Does anyone know the book?  While I, too, thought the snogging was
>way out of order, I was interested that they actually met on passing 
>trains like that - it must be a pretty early example, if that's what   
   >happens in the book?

It's a long time since I read it, and I'd forgotten the details, but
I've just retrieved a copy off the library shelf and, no, they don't
meet like that and the reconciliation scene happens in private. It's
understandable that the working out of the story has to be simplified
for TV, but they might have tried to make the characters' behaviour
plausible.


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Subject: [h-cost] Bayes stuffing in Breeches?
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Status: RO

On page 77 of POF 3, Arnold talks about a guy being hauled before the 
court for wearing Bayes stuffed in his breeches.

Anyone know what it is and why it would be capitalized (and outlawed for 
that matter)?

Saragrace

>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bayes stuffing in Breeches?
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At 04:57 09/12/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>On page 77 of POF 3, Arnold talks about a guy being hauled before the 
>court for wearing Bayes stuffed in his breeches.
>
>Anyone know what it is and why it would be capitalized (and outlawed for 
>that matter)?


Baize, modern spelling, is a "woollen stuff", now used for things like 
billiard tables etc. *Then" it was used for stuffing the breeches, and the 
man was probably going against the sumptuary laws - the baize would not 
have been a problem, the amount of stuffing could have been. Nouns were 
frequently capitalized - there is nothing special about bayes to make it 
so. Many handwritten letters, even up to the Second World War, can be found 
with capitals all over - Only using them for beginnings of sentences, 
proper names and "I" is only a comparatively modern thing that came along 
with standardised spelling - and that is still not standard between England 
and the U.S., in spite of the fact that, theoretically, we use the same 
language!! (My spell checker thinks there should be a "z" instead of an "s" 
in standardised, for example.<g>)

Suzi


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From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bayes stuffing in Breeches?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Wicked Frau <wickedfrau@earthlink.net> wrote:On page 77 of POF 3, Arnold talks about a guy being hauled before the 
court for wearing Bayes stuffed in his breeches.

Anyone know what it is and why it would be capitalized (and outlawed for 
that matter)?

Saragrace


Puzzling!  I wonder if "Bayes" is a misprint for "brayes" or "braies". But then, - on reflection, that cannot be right because his "braies" should be inside his breeches/hosen, anyway.
I also hope that someone will be able to enlighten us.
 


 


Yours in service, 
Julian Wilson,
late-medieval Re-enactor.
Historian and Master Artisan to  
"The Companie of the Duke's Leopards",
in "olde" Jersey
		
---------------------------------
Win a castle  for NYE with your mates and Yahoo! Messenger 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Russian net
Date: Thu, 9 Dec 2004 08:16:01 -0500
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Althea, I have a bolt piece of black net (tulle?) that is flocked with teal/
turquoise shiny stuff.  Would a piece of this do?  It is probably from the
1950/60's.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Althea Turner" <althea@alfalfapress.com>
To: "Costume Historical" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 2004 5:30 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Russian net


> Greetings all,
> I am looking for direction on how to make Russian net. (or an on-line
> source)  I want to use the net in lieu of a mask for a fancy dress ball
> on New Year's.  I have found it in white or ivory, but I want dark
> green with rhinestones.
>
> Any ideas?  thank you!
>
> Althea Turner
> *** althea@alfalfapress.com
> *** http://www.alfalfapress.com
>
> I think, therefore I'm dangerous.
>
> I'll be Post-Feminist in a Post-Patriarchy
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bayes stuffing in Breeches?
Date: Thu, 9 Dec 2004 08:39:59 -0500
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I know it's early AM, but my first picture in my mind, what with the capital 
"B", made me think of a person....yes he would get hauled before the court 
with a person stuffed in his breeches.
KmP
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "julian wilson" <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 09, 2004 7:19 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bayes stuffing in Breeches?


> Wicked Frau <wickedfrau@earthlink.net> wrote:On page 77 of POF 3, Arnold 
> talks about a guy being hauled before the
> court for wearing Bayes stuffed in his breeches.
>
> Anyone know what it is and why it would be capitalized (and outlawed for
> that matter)?
>
> Saragrace
>
>
> Puzzling!  I wonder if "Bayes" is a misprint for "brayes" or "braies". But 
> then, - on reflection, that cannot be right because his "braies" should be 
> inside his breeches/hosen, anyway.
> I also hope that someone will be able to enlighten us.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yours in service,
> Julian Wilson,
> late-medieval Re-enactor.
> Historian and Master Artisan to
> "The Companie of the Duke's Leopards",
> in "olde" Jersey
>
> ---------------------------------
> Win a castle  for NYE with your mates and Yahoo! Messenger
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bayes stuffing in Breeches?
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Status: RO



Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> suzi@suziclarke.co.uk 09/12/2004 12:12:45 >>>

>Baize, modern spelling, is a "woollen stuff", now used for things like

>billiard tables etc. *Then" it was used for stuffing the breeches, and
>the man was probably going against the sumptuary laws - the baize 
>would not have been a problem, the amount of stuffing could have   
>been. Nouns were frequently capitalized - there is nothing special    
>about bayes to make it so. Many handwritten letters, even up to the 
>Second World War, can be found with capitals all over - Only using  
>them for beginnings of sentences, proper names and "I" is only a     
>comparatively modern thing that came along with standardised        
>spelling .

Colchester, in Essex, was famous for making "bays and says" (two types
of woollen cloth).
I would say that capitalisation of nouns died out well after spelling
had become standardised - and, of course, it's still correct usage in
German.

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <B2518A82-4978-11D9-B4C4-000393C0A652@alfalfapress.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Russian net
Date: Thu, 9 Dec 2004 15:47:13 +0100
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Hi Althea,
I didnt know what it was you were looking for, but followed the link.
This is also known of bobbin lace makeres as point d'esprit. In english 
tallie ground.
If you know how to make bobbin lace, it is very easy to make, but the 
tallies, or e'sprit's are a little tricky to make.
Let me know if you make bobbin lace, and i would send you directions how to 
make it!!!

Bjarne



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Althea Turner" <althea@alfalfapress.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 09, 2004 1:24 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Russian net


> Thanks!!
>
> heh, it's not my idea.  I saw it on the Victoria's Secret advert. 
> *laughs*
>
> Althea
>
> On Wednesday, December 8, 2004, at 04:05 PM, Cynthia Virtue wrote:
>
>> Althea Turner wrote:
>>
>>> Greetings all,
>>> I am looking for direction on how to make Russian net. (or an on-line 
>>> source)  I want to use the net in lieu of a mask for a fancy dress ball 
>>> on New Year's.  I have found it in white or ivory, but I want dark green 
>>> with rhinestones.
>>
>> I had to search to know what it was, here's a link with pictures for 
>> other readers: http://www.hatboxhats.com/veil_facts_content.html
>>
>> Anyway, Althea, is it dyeable?  Then you could stick on the rhinestones 
>> yourself.  Or maybe searching on "french net" would get you precolored. 
>> Cool idea.
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent
>>
>> Sweating would purge his body of whatever caused his headaches, nausea, 
>> and vertigo.  From time to time, he would stop and refresh himself by 
>> drinking a glass of elemental mercury.  -- _Quicksilver_ by Neal 
>> Stephenson
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>
> Althea Turner
> *** althea@alfalfapress.com
> *** http://www.alfalfapress.com
>
> I think, therefore I'm dangerous.
>
> I'll be Post-Feminist in a Post-Patriarchy
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Russian net
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Ohhh...  I just might....  How much do you want for a bit of it?
Thanks!

Althea


On Thursday, December 9, 2004, at 05:16 AM, Lloyd Mitchell wrote:

> rmitchell@washjeff.edu
Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com
*** http://www.alfalfapress.com

I think, therefore I'm dangerous.

I'll be Post-Feminist in a Post-Patriarchy

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Hello Bjarne,
I would very much like to know how to make it.  I have access to bobbin 
making supplies through a friend who can help with the project.

You guys rock!
Althea

On Thursday, December 9, 2004, at 06:47 AM, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Hi Althea,
> I didnt know what it was you were looking for, but followed the link.
> This is also known of bobbin lace makeres as point d'esprit. In 
> english tallie ground.
> If you know how to make bobbin lace, it is very easy to make, but the 
> tallies, or e'sprit's are a little tricky to make.
> Let me know if you make bobbin lace, and i would send you directions 
> how to make it!!!
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Althea Turner" 
> <althea@alfalfapress.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Thursday, December 09, 2004 1:24 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Russian net
>
>
>> Thanks!!
>>
>> heh, it's not my idea.  I saw it on the Victoria's Secret advert. 
>> *laughs*
>>
>> Althea
>>
>> On Wednesday, December 8, 2004, at 04:05 PM, Cynthia Virtue wrote:
>>
>>> Althea Turner wrote:
>>>
>>>> Greetings all,
>>>> I am looking for direction on how to make Russian net. (or an 
>>>> on-line source)  I want to use the net in lieu of a mask for a 
>>>> fancy dress ball on New Year's.  I have found it in white or ivory, 
>>>> but I want dark green with rhinestones.
>>>
>>> I had to search to know what it was, here's a link with pictures for 
>>> other readers: http://www.hatboxhats.com/veil_facts_content.html
>>>
>>> Anyway, Althea, is it dyeable?  Then you could stick on the 
>>> rhinestones yourself.  Or maybe searching on "french net" would get 
>>> you precolored. Cool idea.
>>>
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent
>>>
>>> Sweating would purge his body of whatever caused his headaches, 
>>> nausea, and vertigo.  From time to time, he would stop and refresh 
>>> himself by drinking a glass of elemental mercury.  -- _Quicksilver_ 
>>> by Neal Stephenson
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> h-costume mailing list
>>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>>
>>>
>> Althea Turner
>> *** althea@alfalfapress.com
>> *** http://www.alfalfapress.com
>>
>> I think, therefore I'm dangerous.
>>
>> I'll be Post-Feminist in a Post-Patriarchy
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com
*** http://www.alfalfapress.com

I think, therefore I'm dangerous.

I'll be Post-Feminist in a Post-Patriarchy

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Russian net
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Coolio!  Thanks!  This looks to be an ev-il  (tm) place.  :D
Althea

On Wednesday, December 8, 2004, at 06:48 PM, Theresa Eacker wrote:

> Hi there, Althea-
>
> Had this lurking in my bookmarks:
>
> http://www.judithm.com/shop/?page=shop/ 
> flypage&product_id=4108&category_id=688e916ae8116e24e22b3ea83ecaab4a&
>
> Hunter green russian veiling...tacking on the rhinestones might have  
> to happen after-market though!!
>
> Good luck,
>
> Theresa Eacker
>
> Althea Turner wrote:
>> Greetings all,
>> I am looking for direction on how to make Russian net. (or an on-line  
>> source)  I want to use the net in lieu of a mask for a fancy dress  
>> ball on New Year's.  I have found it in white or ivory, but I want  
>> dark green with rhinestones.
>> Any ideas?  thank you!
>> Althea Turner
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com
*** http://www.alfalfapress.com

I think, therefore I'm dangerous.

I'll be Post-Feminist in a Post-Patriarchy

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Yep, you're right and THANKS!
 
Christine

Shane & Sheridan <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca> wrote:
Found this while looking for something else, I thought others would enjoy
it:

http://lafayette.150m.com/ple1598b.html

The descriptions of the colors sound loverly. :-)


Sheridan



		
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References: <9882D01216FC5249A2A41B86BD89559B03613E0F@wcosmb01.cos.agilent.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Books early-mid 1500s
Date: Thu, 9 Dec 2004 11:39:26 -0600
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: <sunshine_buchler@agilent.com>
<snip>
>  ... My favorite book for
> this time-period has been mentioned before
> ( _Hispanic Costume: 1480 - 1530_ by Ruth M.
> Anderson) but it's obviously not French or English.
>   -sunny

Ooo, never heard of this (I must have missed the previous post) and I'd love 
to have this--I think. Any chance of a brief review/description, and an 
ISBN, if easily accessible?

-E House 

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From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
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Forwarding the forwarded message:


Date: Wed, 08 Dec 2004 14:33:14 -0000
   From: "Julie Zetterberg Sardo"
Subject: 'La Mode Bagatelle' Closing


-----

To all those who like to make historical costumes:

After many years of great service, the pattern resources of the
ladies of "La Mode Bagatelle" are coming to an end. They will be
going out of business as of the end of this month, December 31st, and
will no longer be able to supply their wonderful patterns and books
to the costumers of the world. If you, or anyone you know, has an
interest in sewing historically authentic costumes, please check out
their website at http://www.lamodebagatelle.com/. They have an order
form on the site, and while they don't take online orders, you can
fax or mail orders to them. I encourage you to look at their
patterns; they are unusually complete, helpful and easy  to use. Get
them before it's too late!

-----
I've never used their patterns, I've no commercial interest in the company,
but I thought that many people on this list would be interested in this
news.

LynnD


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From: Gail & Scott Finke <gailscott@eos.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] regency house party question
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Sorry to bother the list, please reply privately if you think it is of no
interest to anyone...

Regency House Party was finally on here last month. I watched parts of it
and found it rather dull -- what awful people! -- even if everyone did look
gorgeous. But I missed the last episode. I just tried looking up websites
for it, but nothing will come in (must be a bad day for my internet
service). Will someone tell me what happened at the end? Did anyone actually
pair up?

I didn't learn anything at all about the era, but it didn't seem to be that
sort of show. 

Gail Finke

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] La Mode Bagatelle
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There's a Regency Wardrobe La Mode BAgatelle pattern on ebay at the 
moment - will be finishing in an hour or so. Its at 
http://snipurl.com/b916
Cheers, Aylwen Garden
http://www.earthlydelights.com.au


>
>
> Forwarding the forwarded message:
>
>
> Date: Wed, 08 Dec 2004 14:33:14 -0000
>    From: "Julie Zetterberg Sardo"
> Subject: 'La Mode Bagatelle' Closing
>
>
> -----
>
> To all those who like to make historical costumes:
>
> After many years of great service, the pattern resources of the
> ladies of "La Mode Bagatelle" are coming to an end. They will be
> going out of business as of the end of this month, December 31st, and
> will no longer be able to supply their wonderful patterns and books
> to the costumers of the world. If you, or anyone you know, has an
> interest in sewing historically authentic costumes, please check out
> their website at http://www.lamodebagatelle.com/. They have an order
> form on the site, and while they don't take online orders, you can
> fax or mail orders to them. I encourage you to look at their
> patterns; they are unusually complete, helpful and easy  to use. Get
> them before it's too late!
>
> -----
> I've never used their patterns, I've no commercial interest in the 
> company,
> but I thought that many people on this list would be interested in this
> news.
>
> LynnD
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] regency house party question
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There's been some discussion of this production on the Real Regency 
list at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/The_Real_Regency/

Cheers, Aylwen Garden
http://www.earthlydelights.com.au

On Friday, December 10, 2004, at 08:36 AM, Gail & Scott Finke wrote:

>
> Sorry to bother the list, please reply privately if you think it is of 
> no
> interest to anyone...
>
> Regency House Party was finally on here last month. I watched parts of 
> it
> and found it rather dull -- what awful people! -- even if everyone did 
> look
> gorgeous. But I missed the last episode. I just tried looking up 
> websites
> for it, but nothing will come in (must be a bad day for my internet
> service). Will someone tell me what happened at the end? Did anyone 
> actually
> pair up?
>
> I didn't learn anything at all about the era, but it didn't seem to be 
> that
> sort of show.
>
> Gail Finke
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

_______________________________________________
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: Jacqueline Johnson <jacquelinejbump@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] regency house party question
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The one big thing was that the hostess managed to talk all the other
chaperones into leaving early. She then threw a masque in the woods
and among other things the master of the house wound up in bed with
the countess.
-- 
============================
Soda Club Distibutor
http://snipurl.com/avkn
http://stores.ebay.com/Kristalori
Period Patterns!
http://www.freeiPods.com/?r=12510305
============================


On Thu, 09 Dec 2004 16:36:25 -0500, Gail & Scott Finke
<gailscott@eos.net> wrote:
> 
> Sorry to bother the list, please reply privately if you think it is of no
> interest to anyone...
> 
> Regency House Party was finally on here last month. I watched parts of it
> and found it rather dull -- what awful people! -- even if everyone did look
> gorgeous. But I missed the last episode. I just tried looking up websites
> for it, but nothing will come in (must be a bad day for my internet
> service). Will someone tell me what happened at the end? Did anyone actually
> pair up?
> 
> I didn't learn anything at all about the era, but it didn't seem to be that
> sort of show.
> 
> Gail Finke
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Subject: [h-cost] Anne Bradstreet
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Hi all.

I am writing on behaft of a friend who is writing a book/historical 
novel around Anne Bradstreet who lived 1612-1672.  She was born in 
Northampton England, then moved to the Mass. Bay Colonys in  the 
1620s.   She was a fairly prominent Puritan writer, and those of you 
from the US probably had to read some of her poems in highschool or if 
you are not sure, here is a link to more about her ( 
http://www.nagasaki-gaigo.ac.jp/ishikawa/amlit/b/bradstreet1718.htm ).  
Anyway, I showed her Drea Leed's excelent site, and she was wondering if 
there are any good web or book resoses that would focus on early 17th 
cent. or might focus on something about  that would be useful to her?  I 
have often talked about how cool this list is, so i am hoping to have 
lots  directions to point her in.   Hard to find books are NO problem 
for her as she is doing most of her research at the main NY Public 
Research Library and is in heven about all that is availible.  she is 
just a lttle overwhelmed and wants something farily specific without 
having to wade though thosands of books.

Thanks for all you time and thinking (in advance)

Jordana

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> Ooo, never heard of this (I must have missed the previous 
> post) and I'd love 
> to have this--I think. Any chance of a brief 
> review/description, and an 
> ISBN, if easily accessible?

The IBSN is 0875351263 . Amazon currently has new copies (re-printed) for $29 (no, I have no association with Amazon, other then giving them a sizable chunk of my paycheck every month :-) ). My mother has the original printing, and I have the re-print, and I can't tell the difference between the two, despite the more then ten-year gap between issues.

_Hispanic Costume: 1480 - 1530_ by Ruth M. Anderson only covers Spanish and Portuguese fashion (as the title may suggest). It's roughly split in half -- one half covering male dress and the other half covering female dress. Within each gender there is a long section on "occasions for men/women to wear fancy dress" -- this is mostly from a royal perspective, as the royal wardrobe accounts are some of the main written sources Anderson uses. The other half of the section covers all the different garments being worn, from hair and headdress, shoes, hose, shirts/shifts/chemises (I forget the Spanish term Anderson uses for these) to the main garment, outer garments and jewelry. Most of the pictures in the book are black-and-white, however what I find most wonderful about the organization -- for each section on hair, shoes, shifts, etc. Anderson has detail-pictures from many different paintings/sculpture/prints. So, for women's chemises, she has ~12 different close-ups of how the c!
 hemise band works and of embellishment on the chemise, so you can see the range of variations. The close-up shots only show the garment being discussed -- so it will cut off the figure's face if it's showing the chemise and only show the feet if the stockings are what is being discussed. In my opinion doing this sort of selective cropping of the art allows you to see much more detail then if you only had a full-page print of the entire painting. (It also makes the text easier to follow, as the close-up pictures are almost always on the same page as the text that refers to them). All of the close-up pictures have dates and attributions, so you know what painting it comes from.

I only have two wishes when it comes to this book: 1) color would've been nice (but much more expensive, I expect) and 2) I wish Ms. Anderson had written _more_ books like this!

	Hope this helps!
		-sunny

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http://auction.herrschners.com/item.aspx?catId=3&auctionId=4085&sourcecode=88674
Anyone interested in advertising that you sew from your ears?  There's 
about a day and a half left on this auction.
Rowena

>

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For Anne Bradstreet, just have your friend go to the NY Public library
online catalog and type in Fashion--History--17th century or
Costume--History--17th century.

Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion: 1550-1620 and Jean Hunnisett'Period
Costume for Stage and Screen 1500-1800 will be the best guides as to the cut
of costume.

Also let her know that Puritan costume wasn't all black; far from it.  The
infamous black we see in portraits was actually the result of an expensive
black dye--a rather high status item. The Puritans, especially when they got
over this side of the pond, were really big on killing the wear of luxury
fabrics and extravagant trimmings, especially by those whose incomes didn't
run normally to such things-it does make sense when one is living in the
wilderness far from the nearest merchant.

I remember a case in the Massachusetts court where a maid servant was not
only wearing a silk hood, but wearing it "in a flaunting manner" and dared
to wear the said same hood when presented before the magistrates that would
judge her.

Most of the sumptary laws the Puritans did adopt made sense: a luxury outfit
could cost more than a year's wages for most people--kind of like buying a
luxury car today when one is making minimum wage or little more.

Cindy Abel





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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Books early-mid 1500s
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Thank you! This does help. I went and read the Amazon reviews quickly, as 
well--I should have realized that I could try to find it there without the 
ISBN. =} But I'm glad I asked anyway, for your review!

One follow-up question, though: is she good about including as much 
information about the painting--date, location, title, etc--as possible? I 
have several books that drive me CRAZY on that point; it's not even like the 
information they left out was hard to find!

-E House 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Books early-mid 1500s
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At 01:11 PM 12/8/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>Sorry for being a bit late on this thread, but I didn't see anyone mention 
>these books:
>
>For German my favorite is: _Early German Painting 1350-1550_ by Isolde 
>Lübbeke (it's not in print, unfortunately)
>
>For Italian I like:
>_Virtue and Beauty : Leonardo's Ginevra de' Benci and Renaissance 
>Portraits of Women_ (this is in print)
>_The Dress of the Venetians, 1495-1525_ by Stella Mary Newton (not really 
>a picture book...and it doesn't look like it's still in print.)
>
>I can't think of any that focus specifically on England or France... I 
>generally hunt-and-peck though lots of books ... My favorite book for this 
>time-period has been mentioned before ( _Hispanic Costume: 1480 - 1530_ by 
>Ruth M. Anderson) but it's obviously not French or English.
>         -sunny


Oooh, thanks Sunny for sharing more recommended books.

My hubby is so going to hate me.

Kimiko



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Status: RO

Thanks for the compliments <blush>.

  Actually http://paternoster-row.org and 
http://paternosters.home.igc.org/ are the same site: the domain name 
"paternoster-row.org" is "parked" at Earthlink so I can take 
advantage of my free webspace there (until I outgrow it anyway). 
Typing in the paternoster-row address transfers you to 
"paternosters.home.igc.org", the actual location of the page.

Either address works, but if you're passing the link along to others, 
use http://paternoster-row.org , since hopefully that one will be 
permanent.

And yes, there's also a mailing list (also linked from Paternoster-Row):

[PATERNOSTERS] is an e-mail list at Yahoo! Groups for people 
interested in historical rosaries, paternosters, and other prayer 
beads. If you re-create, research, collect, or just admire and are 
interested in the variety of historical rosaries (etc.), you are very 
welcome to join us! To learn more about the Paternosters group or to 
subscribe, please visit <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Paternosters>.

Pax et bonum!

O-oooooooooo-O-oooooooooo-O-oooooooooo-O-oooooooooo-O-oooooooooo-O

-- 
____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>  -   Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] regency house party question
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gail & Scott Finke" <gailscott@eos.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, December 10, 2004 8:36 AM
Subject: [h-cost] regency house party question


>
> Sorry to bother the list, please reply privately if you think it is of no
> interest to anyone...
>
> Regency House Party was finally on here last month. I watched parts of it
> and found it rather dull -- what awful people! -- even if everyone did
look
> gorgeous. But I missed the last episode. I just tried looking up websites
> for it, but nothing will come in (must be a bad day for my internet
> service). Will someone tell me what happened at the end? Did anyone
actually
> pair up?
>
> I didn't learn anything at all about the era, but it didn't seem to be
that
> sort of show.
>
> Gail Finke

there was a fair amount of pairing up with a maze designed to be walked in
pairs Victoria (the heiress with a real northern accent) was still in two
minds about her two suitors (she walked through the maze with the singer but
ended up leaving the house with the other sorry I can't remember names) Miss
Braun? was caught sneaking out of Captain Glover's room in the early hours
of the morning after the Masque (that Aylwen mentioned) and the Countess &
the host were found in bed together when the footmen came to wake him. the
ladies companion & the hermit ended up together er I think that's it.
Anyway, here's the official website
http://www.channel4.com/history/microsites/R/regencyhouse/programme/index.html
(the 'are you a regency catch quiz is a lot of fun)
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au

Mr. Speaker, I said the honourable member was a liar it is true and I am
sorry for it. The honourable member may place the punctuation where he
pleases.
Richard Brinsley Sheridan (1751-1816) British dramatist. On being asked to
apologise for calling a fellow MP a liar. Attrib.

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From: "Shane & Sheridan" <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] Another Fancy dress for a Ball
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http://lafayette.150m.com/pag1400a.html

This is from the same ball as the last one I posted, but read the
information about the lady in the picture, she sounds a truly interesting
woman.

And once again, the gown is simply amazing...

Sheridan


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There is a very fine line between 'Hobby'
and 'Mental Illness'


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From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] A question for Bjarne....
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Well, actually a question for anyone who might happen to know, but 
Bjarne was the first person I thought of....
Yesterday, I purchased a book on traditional scandinavian knitting.  In 
a way I've found common to books about "traditional" needlework, the 
author has included some bits of historical info here and there, with 
proper attribution, but not a lot of detail.  *sigh*
On page 77, in the section on Danish knitting, is an illustration (small 
b/w photograph) of a jacket which she notes as:
"Although part of the Danish National Museum collection in Copenhagen, 
this knitted silk jacket was probably imported from England in the 
seventeenth century.  Perhaps woollen jackets were imported as well, but 
certainly the style was immediately copied in wool and was knitted with 
remarkable consistency and worn all over Denmark well into the twentieth 
century."
I have no idea what color (or colors) it actually is, but I can tell 
that it has a brocaded look to it--variations/external design elements 
look more like texture differences, than color differences, and it 
closes down the front with hooks and eyes. There is no obvious collar, 
and the sleeves look to be set in. It looks to be similar in style to 
the embroidered "Jacobean jackets" seen in some early 17th century 
paintings (the ones I'm thinking of are all English).
So...Bjarne, have you ever seen this jacket? Do you happen to know 
anything about it? I know that you're generally to be found making 
clothing from a considerably later time period, but I thought you might 
have run across this intriguing jacket, especially since you live in 
Copenhagen....
Thanks to anyone with any info about this!
--sue, very curious about knitting these days....

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From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
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I was hoping someone out there would have a couple of
images for a circa 1864 toddler's dress for winter
time. Myself and my daughter are going to a Victorian
village next week and I thought it would be nifty if
she had something that would match my dress.

Kathy

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Date: Thu, 09 Dec 2004 23:09:15 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1864 girl's dress
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>I was hoping someone out there would have a couple of
>images for a circa 1864 toddler's dress for winter
>time. Myself and my daughter are going to a Victorian
>village next week and I thought it would be nifty if
>she had something that would match my dress.

Short puffed sleeves, Peter Pan collar, gathered skirt, half sash that ties 
in back.  To that you could add a ruffly white sun-bonnet of eyelet lace, 
and a 3/4-circle cape that comes about down to the child's elbows and which 
ties shut with ribbons in front.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1864 girl's dress
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Status: RO

Kathy, most toddlers we wearing a "boat" neck style dress, either with or without a yoke, short straight sleeves that were really more of a "sleeve cap", and a pleated or gauged (cartridge pleated) skirt that would generally come to the knee or just below (the skirts lengthened as they grew older).  For greater wearability, you might consider putting "growth tucks" (horizontal pleats) in the skirt which could be let out later.  The dress should fasten in the back with either strings, hooks and eyes, or buttons.  

I have not yet seen a picture of a child this age wearing any kind of collared dress (in my experience this appears no earlier than approximately age 10 or 12), nor have I seen photographs which included anything but short, straight sleeves on children of this age (again, variations are generally seen after about age 10 or 12).  I don't have a scanner, but I do have some original ambrotypes, tintypes and CdVs of small little girls (ages 2-4) from this era.  If it would be helpful, I'd be glad to photograph them and send the files to you directly, as I'm not sure the list allows attachments.

Let me know, and I'll dig out the cases from my display box that I take around to the schools.

LuAnn
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Kathy Page<mailto:caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca> 
  To: Historical Costume List<mailto:h-costume@net.indra.com> 
  Sent: Thursday, December 09, 2004 10:50 PM
  Subject: [h-cost] 1864 girl's dress


  I was hoping someone out there would have a couple of
  images for a circa 1864 toddler's dress for winter
  time. Myself and my daughter are going to a Victorian
  village next week and I thought it would be nifty if
  she had something that would match my dress.

  Kathy

  ______________________________________________________________________ 
  Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca<http://personals.yahoo.ca/>
  _______________________________________________
  h-costume mailing list
  h-costume@mail.indra.com<mailto:h-costume@mail.indra.com>
  http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume<http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume>
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At 01:50 10/12/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>I was hoping someone out there would have a couple of
>images for a circa 1864 toddler's dress for winter
>time. Myself and my daughter are going to a Victorian
>village next week and I thought it would be nifty if
>she had something that would match my dress.


I have sent you a fashion plate privately. If anyone else wants a copy, 
please ask. It is of five girls, at varying ages, including a toddler, 
1863. I have others, if anyone is interested.

Suzi




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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] regency house party question
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I too missed most of the last episode when this was shown in the UK. The
episode was shown at a much earlier time than the rest of the series,
without warning, and I only caught it by accident half way through (not
that I had seen all the previous ones). I remember that I liked the way
the master of the house said goodbye to the servants with genuine
warmth.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 04:29:15 2004
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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2004 09:27:55 +0000
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Hi, Jordana,
Although early 17th century is a very popular period for reenactment in
the UK, there doesn't seem to be anything like as much on the Web as
there is for the 16th century.
http://www.vincents.demon.co.uk/stays/ is a website from a member of my
own society.
http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/17thlinks.htm has a lot of
info. including Wenceslas Hollar's famous engravings of women's
costume.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby
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From: "Five Rivers" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: La Mode Bagatelle 
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    We have La Mode Bagatelle patterns in stock and will be ordering more
before they close. They can be found at:
http://www.5rivers.org/en-gb/dept_19.html

    It is my understanding from the owners there is the possibility the
stock may be sold off to another company who will retail/wholesale. But
that's just a possibility at this point.

Regards
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage
fine hand-sewn embroidered garments, historical sewing patterns & embroidery
supplies
(519) 799-5577, http://www.5rivers.org  email: info@5rivers.org


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1864 girl's dress
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2004 08:48:31 -0500
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Estelle Worrel's book on children's costume has a nice section for this
period.  She usually talks about the whole spectrum of costume re class.
I have found this book to be a good visual source.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "LuAnn Mason" <LuAnn_Mason@msn.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, December 10, 2004 2:57 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1864 girl's dress


Kathy, most toddlers we wearing a "boat" neck style dress, either with or
without a yoke, short straight sleeves that were really more of a "sleeve
cap", and a pleated or gauged (cartridge pleated) skirt that would generally
come to the knee or just below (the skirts lengthened as they grew older).
For greater wearability, you might consider putting "growth tucks"
(horizontal pleats) in the skirt which could be let out later.  The dress
should fasten in the back with either strings, hooks and eyes, or buttons.

I have not yet seen a picture of a child this age wearing any kind of
collared dress (in my experience this appears no earlier than approximately
age 10 or 12), nor have I seen photographs which included anything but
short, straight sleeves on children of this age (again, variations are
generally seen after about age 10 or 12).  I don't have a scanner, but I do
have some original ambrotypes, tintypes and CdVs of small little girls (ages
2-4) from this era.  If it would be helpful, I'd be glad to photograph them
and send the files to you directly, as I'm not sure the list allows
attachments.

Let me know, and I'll dig out the cases from my display box that I take
around to the schools.

LuAnn
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Kathy Page<mailto:caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
  To: Historical Costume List<mailto:h-costume@net.indra.com>
  Sent: Thursday, December 09, 2004 10:50 PM
  Subject: [h-cost] 1864 girl's dress


  I was hoping someone out there would have a couple of
  images for a circa 1864 toddler's dress for winter
  time. Myself and my daughter are going to a Victorian
  village next week and I thought it would be nifty if
  she had something that would match my dress.

  Kathy

  ______________________________________________________________________
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http://personals.yahoo.ca<http://personals.yahoo.ca/>
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Shane & Sheridan wrote:

> http://lafayette.150m.com/pag1400a.html

Bummer; I just went there and instead recieved this error message: "This 
site has exceeded its limit of 5 Gigabytes of transfer for the month. 
You may buy extra Gigabytes of transfer by logging in to the user menu 
and choosing "upgrade". "

Too much interest, I suppose!

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

Sweating would purge his body of whatever caused his headaches, nausea, 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1864 girl's dress
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Simplicity has recently come out with two new American Civil War patterns for little girls. To my semi-educated eyes the look pretty good, but I'm certainly willing to defer to more knowledgeable folks.



Karen



-- Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca> wrote:
I was hoping someone out there would have a couple of
images for a circa 1864 toddler's dress for winter
time. Myself and my daughter are going to a Victorian
village next week and I thought it would be nifty if
she had something that would match my dress.

Kathy

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References: <5.2.1.1.0.20041207010101.02544d50@64.87.54.245>	<003b01c4da0f$4baefba0$0302a8c0@familyroom>	<4.3.1.2.20041203173506.026d70e0@mail.frys.com>	<5.2.1.1.0.20041207010101.02544d50@64.87.54.245>	<5.2.1.1.0.20041207134932.02a7ea88@64.87.54.245>
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Thanks all for the help on Bayes...

Here are two more, but now it is just the pronunciation:

I have checked both of these out in several dictionaries with mixed 
results.  (I have listed several here for reference)

TULLE:   I have always heard this pronounced to rhyme with "hull"  (like 
the ship).  Most pronounce it like tool.  I understand that it is named 
after a town in France:  This dictionary pronunciation almost sounds 
like "teeyou" or  "tiu"      *http://tinyurl.com/5umqr*

CHEMISE:  I have always heard this pronounced shemee or shemeeze.....is 
the harder s sound shemeese just an anglicized version?
*http://tinyurl.com/4h67c*


As always, interested in your insights.
Saragrace

** <http://tinyurl.com/5umqr>


>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bayes stuffing in Breeches-now another few
	words...tulle and chemise
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At 07:04 10/12/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>Thanks all for the help on Bayes...
>
>Here are two more, but now it is just the pronunciation:
>
>I have checked both of these out in several dictionaries with mixed 
>results.  (I have listed several here for reference)
>
>TULLE:   I have always heard this pronounced to rhyme with "hull"  (like 
>the ship).  Most pronounce it like tool.  I understand that it is named 
>after a town in France:  This dictionary pronunciation almost sounds like 
>"teeyou" or  "tiu"      *http://tinyurl.com/5umqr*

Here we pronounce it either "tool" or "tyule" - I have heard both in the 
shop where I buy it!!


>CHEMISE:  I have always heard this pronounced shemee or shemeeze.....is 
>the harder s sound shemeese just an anglicized version?
>*http://tinyurl.com/4h67c*

I feel this is a matter of choice rather than definitive pronunciation. I 
use either or both with no rhyme or reason, although I think I veer towards 
"chumeeze"! (Saves problems if you say "shift" <g>)

(Mind you chemisette (shemizett) confuses the issue!)

Suzi


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>
>
>> I was hoping someone out there would have a couple of
>> images for a circa 1864 toddler's dress for winter
>> time. 
>
I don't have any for 1864, but a couple from 1855-59 if that would help.
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/godey/fashion/index.html

- Hope
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Dear Sue,
I am not sure if i know this one. I know of a knitted jacket wich was 
wrapped on a baby in a royal burrial at Roskilde Cathedral. It was red with 
gold thread knitted in a pattern.
You could read about this one i know of in a book called "Fru Kirstens 
Børn." " Misses Kirsten's Children".
She was married to King Christian IV and had some small children that died 
in 1620ies, and was burried at Roskilde Cathedral The coiffins needed to be 
restored, and the bodies were examined.
The knitted jacket was ment for an adult, but the child was wrapped in this 
one. Perhaps it had belonged to Kirsten Munk (Kirstine Munk) as here real 
name was.
(I dont like they make the names different in our time, they should use the 
old names..........)
But i dont think this could be the same knit because the one i am talking 
about was burried with the child again, after they had finished the 
restoration of the coiffins.
I have never seen it on a museum, only read about it in this book. The 
National Museum do have costumes on a permanent exhibition, but it is not 
there..............
Sorry

Bjarne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, December 10, 2004 7:10 AM
Subject: [h-cost] A question for Bjarne....


> Well, actually a question for anyone who might happen to know, but Bjarne 
> was the first person I thought of....
> Yesterday, I purchased a book on traditional scandinavian knitting.  In a 
> way I've found common to books about "traditional" needlework, the author 
> has included some bits of historical info here and there, with proper 
> attribution, but not a lot of detail.  *sigh*
> On page 77, in the section on Danish knitting, is an illustration (small 
> b/w photograph) of a jacket which she notes as:
> "Although part of the Danish National Museum collection in Copenhagen, 
> this knitted silk jacket was probably imported from England in the 
> seventeenth century.  Perhaps woollen jackets were imported as well, but 
> certainly the style was immediately copied in wool and was knitted with 
> remarkable consistency and worn all over Denmark well into the twentieth 
> century."
> I have no idea what color (or colors) it actually is, but I can tell that 
> it has a brocaded look to it--variations/external design elements look 
> more like texture differences, than color differences, and it closes down 
> the front with hooks and eyes. There is no obvious collar, and the sleeves 
> look to be set in. It looks to be similar in style to the embroidered 
> "Jacobean jackets" seen in some early 17th century paintings (the ones I'm 
> thinking of are all English).
> So...Bjarne, have you ever seen this jacket? Do you happen to know 
> anything about it? I know that you're generally to be found making 
> clothing from a considerably later time period, but I thought you might 
> have run across this intriguing jacket, especially since you live in 
> Copenhagen....
> Thanks to anyone with any info about this!
> --sue, very curious about knitting these days....
>
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2004 15:08:14 +0000
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bayes stuffing in Breeches-now another few
	words...tulle and chemise
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The French "u" as in "tulle" or "debut" is a distinctive sound (like the
German u-with-umlaut), which many English speakers have difficulty with.
"Tiu" is a rough approximation.

Chemise (=shirt in modern French) is pronounced "shemeeze". I've heard
of "shemee" being used colloquially in the 19th century, perhaps from
the mistaken idea that "shemeeze" was plural, in the same way that a
chaise (the vehicle) was sometimes called a "shay".

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <FOEDLIJMMAMODKMIIIMKAEBBDNAA.brujne@creighton.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Anne Bradstreet
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2004 16:10:24 +0100
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Most of the sumptary laws the Puritans did adopt made sense: a luxury outfit
could cost more than a year's wages for most people--kind of like buying a
luxury car today when one is making minimum wage or little more.

Cindy Abel

Dear Cincy,
I am just teasing, but are you aware about how much we pay in taxes for cars 
in Denmark?
If i were to buy a luxury car with my wages, i could easy work for 5 
years.............

Bjarne 


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References: <5.2.1.1.0.20041207010101.02544d50@64.87.54.245>	<003b01c4da0f$4baefba0$0302a8c0@familyroom>	<4.3.1.2.20041203173506.026d70e0@mail.frys.com>	<5.2.1.1.0.20041207010101.02544d50@64.87.54.245>	<5.2.1.1.0.20041207134932.02a7ea88@64.87.54.245><41B83DC5.10208@earthlink.net>
	<41B9ACE6.1040801@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bayes stuffing in Breeches-now another few
	words...tulleand chemise
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2004 16:32:49 +0100
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Hi Saragrace.
Tulle is a lacetown in France. The point ground was invented here, and it 
got the name Tulle.This is also used a lot for bridal veils.
In Denmark the same stuff for bridal veil is called tyl. With this Y that 
you dont use much the same way we do.
It is very difficult to tell you how it should be pronouced, so i will let 
other do that.

Do you know the french word called Chez meaning by or at? Almost like you 
say chimney, che .........then the s in the last part of the word should be 
long Chemisssssssssss

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Wicked Frau" <wickedfrau@earthlink.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, December 10, 2004 3:04 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bayes stuffing in Breeches-now another few 
words...tulleand chemise


> Thanks all for the help on Bayes...
>
> Here are two more, but now it is just the pronunciation:
>
> I have checked both of these out in several dictionaries with mixed 
> results.  (I have listed several here for reference)
>
> TULLE:   I have always heard this pronounced to rhyme with "hull"  (like 
> the ship).  Most pronounce it like tool.  I understand that it is named 
> after a town in France:  This dictionary pronunciation almost sounds like 
> "teeyou" or  "tiu"      *http://tinyurl.com/5umqr*
>
> CHEMISE:  I have always heard this pronounced shemee or shemeeze.....is 
> the harder s sound shemeese just an anglicized version?
> *http://tinyurl.com/4h67c*
>
>
> As always, interested in your insights.
> Saragrace
>
> ** <http://tinyurl.com/5umqr>
>
>
>>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2004 08:16:53 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Anne Bradstreet
In-Reply-To: <41B8D654.2000901@optonline.net>
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At 05:48 PM 12/9/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi all.
>
>I am writing on behaft of a friend who is writing a book/historical novel 
>around Anne Bradstreet who lived 1612-1672.  She was born in Northampton 
>England, then moved to the Mass. Bay Colonys in  the 1620s.   She was a 
>fairly prominent Puritan writer, and those of you from the US probably had 
>to read some of her poems in highschool or if you are not sure, here is a 
>link to more about her ( 
>http://www.nagasaki-gaigo.ac.jp/ishikawa/amlit/b/bradstreet1718.htm ).
>Anyway, I showed her Drea Leed's excelent site, and she was wondering if 
>there are any good web or book resoses that would focus on early 17th 
>cent. or might focus on something about  that would be useful to her?  I 
>have often talked about how cool this list is, so i am hoping to have 
>lots  directions to point her in.   Hard to find books are NO problem for 
>her as she is doing most of her research at the main NY Public Research 
>Library and is in heven about all that is availible.  she is just a lttle 
>overwhelmed and wants something farily specific without having to wade 
>though thosands of books.
>
>Thanks for all you time and thinking (in advance)
>
>Jordana

You might check out the website for Plimoth Plantation, 
http://www.plimoth.org .  Plimoth Plantation is a re-creation of the early 
English colony; they re-create 1627, so the information is for the earlier 
part of Anne Bradstreet's sojourn in the area.


Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net

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Kass McGann does quite a bit with the early 17th century--I'm sure she'd be 
a great resource, as she's very cheerful about answering questions. Her 
website is:
http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/

-E House 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1864 girl's dress
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I hadn't seen these before!  The 4737 is not bad at all, and a really good choice for winter.  The other one, 4739 is okay, but the sleeve and neckline aren't quite right.  The neckline should be more straight across and the sleeves should be open on the bottom edge, IMO.  Still, it's really nice to see Simplicity making more historically accurate patterns widely available.  I sure wish they'd branch out into some other eras.

LuAnn 
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: seamstrix@juno.com<mailto:seamstrix@juno.com> 
  To: h-costume@indra.com<mailto:h-costume@indra.com> 
  Sent: Friday, December 10, 2004 5:57 AM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1864 girl's dress




  Simplicity has recently come out with two new American Civil War patterns for little girls. To my semi-educated eyes the look pretty good, but I'm certainly willing to defer to more knowledgeable folks.



  Karen



  -- Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca<mailto:caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>> wrote:
  I was hoping someone out there would have a couple of
  images for a circa 1864 toddler's dress for winter
  time. Myself and my daughter are going to a Victorian
  village next week and I thought it would be nifty if
  she had something that would match my dress.

  Kathy

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In a message dated 12/10/2004 2:14:46 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
kayta@frys.com writes:

> Short puffed sleeves, Peter Pan collar, gathered skirt, half sash that ties 
> 
> in back.  To that you could add a ruffly white sun-bonnet of eyelet lace, 
> 

A sun bonnet? For winter?????

A dress of wool [with linen or cotton petticoat and chemise between the wool 
and the skin] or silk...especially for the holidays. Knitted and crocheted 
things were popular then for outter wear. 

As you know, both little girls and boys wear dresses in this period. I'm told 
you can tell the difference by whether the hair is parted in the middle, for 
girls, or on the left, for boys.
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1864 girl's dress
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At 13:57 10/12/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>In a message dated 12/10/2004 2:14:46 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>kayta@frys.com writes:
>
> > Short puffed sleeves, Peter Pan collar, gathered skirt, half sash that 
> ties
> >
> > in back.  To that you could add a ruffly white sun-bonnet of eyelet lace,
> >
>
>A sun bonnet? For winter?????
>
>A dress of wool [with linen or cotton petticoat and chemise between the wool
>and the skin] or silk...especially for the holidays. Knitted and crocheted
>things were popular then for outter wear.
>
>As you know, both little girls and boys wear dresses in this period. I'm told
>you can tell the difference by whether the hair is parted in the middle, for
>girls, or on the left, for boys.


It is sometimes possible to tell by the fact that the boy will have plain 
drawers showing, not lace trimmed. The problem with the parting is that 
often hats are worn, so you cannot see the hair. I was told that another 
good way to tell is by the toys - a whip, toy horse or similar for a boy, 
doll for the girl.

Suzi


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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2004 11:46:00 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1864 girl's dress
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> > in back.  To that you could add a ruffly white sun-bonnet of eyelet lace,
> >
>
>A sun bonnet? For winter?????

Baby bonnets were shaped much like sun bonnets.  I was thinking baby 
bonnet, and giving sun bonnet for the shape.  But I may have been thinking 
1880s for all of my post.

>A dress of wool [with linen or cotton petticoat and chemise between the wool
>and the skin] or silk...especially for the holidays. Knitted and crocheted
>things were popular then for outter wear.
>
>As you know, both little girls and boys wear dresses in this period. I'm told
>you can tell the difference by whether the hair is parted in the middle, for
>girls, or on the left, for boys.

Litle boys sometimes had short hair, in a male cut.  Little Lord Fauntleroy 
was 1880s.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 15:02:17 2004
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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2004 15:00:08 -0500 (EST)
From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: 1864 girl's dress
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Thanks everyone. I knew I could count on you folks to
come up with images quickly. :-) 

This is my winner:
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/godey/images/glb5-57dip.jpeg /

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/godey/images/glb5-57di.jpeg

I figure a dress from a slightly earlier period for a
child isn't too out there - a hand-me-down is about
right in age from 1857 to 1864. Thank you Hope, this
will do me just fine. I'll simplify it a little so I
can pull this off in a weekend. :-)
Since this is winter, can I make sleeves and pin them
inside the sleeve? Would that be way out there, or
appropriate? I snagged a plate that shows a little
girl with sleeves, but I think she's wearing a skirt
and jacket.
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/godey/images/glb4-57.2.jpeg 
-from 1855.
I have decided on a pink printed calico lined with
pink flannel, with black passementaries and white
mother-of-pearl buttons. I have some shot pink/black
taffeta I can throw into this as well that should
match, but I think the print calico is a bit too
casual to mix with shot taffeta. 
I have some grey melton wool for a cloak and have
picked up some simple pre-quited cotton for a lining,
and plan on making simple frog closures in black with
black braid piping for trim. The cloak will be a plain
circle with a short standing collar, all piped with
braid.
please pardon my fundamental questions, it has been a
while since I have visited this part of my brain. :-)
The bertha, that acts sort of like a collar, does it
not? It's not sewn into the bodice at all, right? The
shoulder looks gathered to me and I figured it would
be darned hard to get that gather to hold up a sleeve.
The skirt - just a rectangle of fabric pleated to fit
the waist? I'll probably cartridge pleat it if I have
time otherwise the waistband looks like it could
handle being gathered and sewn. Can I get away with
throwing in a couple layers of crinoline instead of
hooping the skirt? I can just see my kid going nuts
with a hoop hanging inside her skirt. :-) 
The plate Suzi sent me shows the youngest girl wearing
a hat - is there something I can use instead of a
formed hat? I really don't have the time to pull that
out of my sleeve nor do I live nearby a place I can
find one quickly. My daughter's hair is fine and
really doesn't hold barettes or hairpins all that
well. That and she generally hates it when I try
mucking around with her hair. How about pulling the
top of her hair back with a big black ribbon?
I might make her some spats to cover up her regular
shoes or leggins if I have the time, otherwise, her
wooly leotard will just have to do. :-) She has all
the underwear already; I made her pantaloons for a
wedding we attended this past spring. I have antique
chemises her size running about the house, so I don't
have to worry about that much either.

Do I sound like I'm ready to dive in? :-)

Kathy

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on 12/10/04 1:12 AM, h-costume-request@indra.com at
h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:

> The one big thing was that the hostess managed to talk all the other
> chaperones into leaving early. She then threw a masque in the woods
> and among other things the master of the house wound up in bed with
> the countess.

Oh. How tacky. Don't these people realize they are on television? You would
think the omnipresent cameras would be a reminder. Well, as I said, I didn't
think much of any of them anyway. But thanks to all who replied! I guess I
didn't miss anything much.

Gail Finke



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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2004 12:47:04 -0800 (PST)
From: Kathryn Parke <kjp1685@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bayes stuffing in Breeches-now another few words...tulle
	and chemise
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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If you're trying to make yourself sound as French as
possible, the s in "chemise" should be pronounced as a
z, because it is intervocalic.  (If there were no
final mute e, then the s would be silent, resulting in
"shuhMEE"). The first e is close to our  schwa (as in
the unstressed syllables of "agree" or "button"), but
more rounded -- close to the sound of our open U in
"book," or even as rounded as the closed o umlaut
sound that you hear in "The Sound of Music," when the
kids use the French pronunciation in "Adieu, adieu, to
you and you and you" -- and they modify the "you" to
match the French "adieu."

U in French, when it stands alone, is one of the mixed
vowels -- put your tongue in the forward ee position
and round your lips to oo.  You should try NOT to
insert the glide of a y as you make the sound -- what
that means is that your tongue was not in the correct
ee position before you started to phonate.  Therefore,
if you were to hear a French person say that word, it
would sound as if he were saying "teel" through very
rounded lips, which gives it that distinct "furrin"
color!  (Germans have this sound as well, of course.)

More than you wanted to know, I'm sure!

:)
KP (diction teacher, and general geek)

--- Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:

> At 07:04 10/12/2004 -0700, you wrote:
> >Thanks all for the help on Bayes...
> >
> >Here are two more, but now it is just the
> pronunciation:
> >
> >I have checked both of these out in several
> dictionaries with mixed 
> >results.  (I have listed several here for
> reference)
> >
> >TULLE:   I have always heard this pronounced to
> rhyme with "hull"  (like 
> >the ship).  Most pronounce it like tool.  I
> understand that it is named 
> >after a town in France:  This dictionary
> pronunciation almost sounds like 
> >"teeyou" or  "tiu"      *http://tinyurl.com/5umqr*
> 
> Here we pronounce it either "tool" or "tyule" - I
> have heard both in the 
> shop where I buy it!!
> 
> 
> >CHEMISE:  I have always heard this pronounced
> shemee or shemeeze.....is 
> >the harder s sound shemeese just an anglicized
> version?
> >*http://tinyurl.com/4h67c*
> 
> I feel this is a matter of choice rather than
> definitive pronunciation. I 
> use either or both with no rhyme or reason, although
> I think I veer towards 
> "chumeeze"! (Saves problems if you say "shift" <g>)
> 
> (Mind you chemisette (shemizett) confuses the
> issue!)
> 
> Suzi
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: Kathryn Parke <kjp1685@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bayes stuffing in Breeches-now another few words...tulle
	and chemise
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I apologize if anybody gets this twice -- I'm not sure
if I'm posting it correctly!

If you're trying to make yourself sound as French as
possible, the s in "chemise" should be pronounced as a
z, because it is intervocalic.  (If there were no
final mute e, then the s would be silent, resulting in
"shuhMEE"). The first e is close to our  schwa (as in
the unstressed syllables of "agree" or "button"), but
more rounded -- close to the sound of our open U in
"book," or even as rounded as the closed o umlaut
sound that you hear in "The Sound of Music," when the
kids use the French pronunciation in "Adieu, adieu, to
you and you and you" -- and they modify the "you" to
match the French "adieu."

U in French, when it stands alone, is one of the mixed
vowels -- put your tongue in the forward ee position
and round your lips to oo.  You should try NOT to
insert the glide of a y as you make the sound -- what
that means is that your tongue was not in the correct
ee position before you started to phonate.  Therefore,
if you were to hear a French person say that word, it
would sound as if he were saying "teel" through very
rounded lips, which gives it that distinct "furrin"
color!  (Germans have this sound as well, of course.)

More than you wanted to know, I'm sure!

:)

KP (diction teacher, and general geek)



--- Wicked Frau <wickedfrau@earthlink.net> wrote:

> Thanks all for the help on Bayes...
> 
> Here are two more, but now it is just the
> pronunciation:
> 
> I have checked both of these out in several
> dictionaries with mixed 
> results.  (I have listed several here for reference)
> 
> TULLE:   I have always heard this pronounced to
> rhyme with "hull"  (like 
> the ship).  Most pronounce it like tool.  I
> understand that it is named 
> after a town in France:  This dictionary
> pronunciation almost sounds 
> like "teeyou" or  "tiu"     
> *http://tinyurl.com/5umqr*
> 
> CHEMISE:  I have always heard this pronounced shemee
> or shemeeze.....is 
> the harder s sound shemeese just an anglicized
> version?
> *http://tinyurl.com/4h67c*
> 
> 
> As always, interested in your insights.
> Saragrace
> 
> ** <http://tinyurl.com/5umqr>
> 
> 
> >
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 



		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1864 girl's dress
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In a message dated 12/10/2004 3:00:11 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
kayta@frys.com writes:

> Litle boys sometimes had short hair, in a male cut.  Little Lord Fauntleroy 
> 
> was 1880s.
> 

True.....and Lord Fauntleroy also wears a skeleton suit, not a dress.

I've seen pictures of little 1860s girls with shortish page boy haircuts. The 
off the shoulder horizontal neck line and little poofy sleeves seem to be 
very common regardless of the time of year. Pantalets showing below a tea length 
skirt with booties is a sure fire way to get the period across. You could 
almost add these to a modern Christmas get up and it would be convincing.

I made some Victorian dresses for girls of about age 8 to 10 using a modern 
commercial pattern for a party dress that had shallow darts in front and closed 
in back. I changed the neck line to be horizontal and cut the skirt in 
straight panels rather than gores. I boned the bodice a bit too with Rigleene. Made 
panatelas with eyelet on the bottom and... VOILA!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1864 girl's dress
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In a message dated 12/10/2004 12:20:33 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
LuAnn_Mason@msn.com writes:

> The 4737 is not bad at all, and a really good choice for winter.  The other 
> one, 4739 is okay, 

They both seem to have been "altered" from accuracy to not restrict the 
child's movement. [I can understand that] This would not happen in the period. The 
horizontal neckline [that should be on 4739] is snug and restrictive. [I've 
seen the sleeves gathered into a band at the bottom....as well as open] and 4737 
needs to just fit more closely all round. I might make the skirts a little 
fuller. But fitted correctly and even with the square neckline [I'm sure 
SOMEBODY did this back then] made up in some yummy velvet or silk, dressed up with 
some lace, these outfits would look great.
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I would love to contact the owner of this website and offer them space for 
this website.  If anyone knows the website owner, please let know.  Then I 
will contact them.  This is such a wonderful reference site, it is a shame 
that their bandwidth goes so quickly every month. When you have large images 
like on this site, exceeding your bandwidth limit can go so quickly.

Or they could go to the service we use and get a smaller site than we have, 
for very little a month.

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com 


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In a message dated 12/10/2004 2:03:50 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:
As you know, both little girls and boys wear dresses in this period. I'm told 
you can tell the difference by whether the hair is parted in the middle, for 
girls, or on the left, for boys.
That is one difference.  I think it likely, too, that the dresses with 
matching jackets were boys' garments.

Ann Wass
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Subject: [h-cost] RE:1864 toddler's dress
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Dear Kathy

The Wisconsin Historical Society has a wonderful on-line collection of
children's clothes searchable by decade.

http://www.wisconsinhistory.org/museum/collections/online/pictsrch.cfm?Paren
tID=376752

Martha




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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1864 girl's dress
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> > Litle boys sometimes had short hair, in a male cut.  Little Lord 
> Fauntleroy
> > > was 1880s.
>
>True.....and Lord Fauntleroy also wears a skeleton suit, not a dress.

Earlier in the book he does.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
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> I've never used their patterns, I've no commercial interest in the
company,
> but I thought that many people on this list would be interested in this
> news.
>
Oh, how sad.  Their Regency Wardrobe package was what inspired me to start
my own pattern company, as it proved that people really would pay a high
price for high quality historical patterns.

I only hope it's becasue they're going on to even more exciting projects.

Margo

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Subject: [h-cost] 1809 & 1811 Fabric Swatches on eBay
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Status: RO

I thought some of you might want to snatch these two auctions up...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=10167&item=3767427924&rd=1
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=10167&item=3767428560&rd=1

Its not my auction or I'd keep them.

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com 
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com 
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
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At 06:01 11/12/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>I thought some of you might want to snatch these two auctions up...
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=10167&item=3767427924&rd=1
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=10167&item=3767428560&rd=1
>
>Its not my auction or I'd keep them.


I buy a lot of stuff from this seller - she is very good. I bought one of 
these pages the last time round.

Suzi


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Status: RO

Cool!  So, just to be sure I understood correctly, the s in chemise is 
heard (as the z sound).   The final mute e thing started to get me confused!


Kathryn Parke wrote:

>If you're trying to make yourself sound as French as
>possible, the s in "chemise" should be pronounced as a
>z, because it is intervocalic.  (If there were no
>final mute e, then the s would be silent, resulting in
>"shuhMEE").
>
>  
>
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Date: Sat, 11 Dec 2004 14:16:59 -0800 (PST)
From: Kathryn Parke <kjp1685@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bayes stuffing in Breeches-now another few words...tulle
	and chemise
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Right -- well, here again, more than you probably want
to know!

The final mute e is a weird concept that mostly only
singers deal with, because in the language, it IS
mute, but for some reason, composers usually set it to
its own note, so we have to sing it.  So "chemise" in
speaking would be "shuMEEZ," while in singing (9 times
out of 10), it would be set as "shuMEEZuh."  Why music
should have evolved that way, I don't know, but it's
pretty much consistent across the musical eras.  So
singers refer to it as a "mute e," even though it's
not mute for us.  HOWEVER, its presence does mean that
the consonant before it would be sounded, because it's
no longer a final consonant (usually this indicates
masculine or feminine).  Therefore, for example: 
"gris" (gree), but "grise" (greez); "petit" (puhTEE),
but "petite" (puhTEET -- or puhTEETuh, if you're
singing), with the "uh" rounded.  So the common phrase
"tête a tête" is correctly pronounced "tet ah tet,"
not "tet a tay," and "coup de grâce" is correctly
pronounced "koo duh grahss," not "koo duh grah."  (And
the intervocalic c is "ss," not "zz" -- if it were
"grâse," it would be "grahz.")

Both "s" and "z" would be heard, but "s" is unvoiced
(all you're doing is blowing air), and "z" is voiced
(the vocal folds are vibrating).  So if you put your
fingertips on your larynx (voice box), and make the
hissing "s" sound, you won't feel any vibration.  If
you put your fingers there and say a long, buzzy "z,"
you WILL feel vibration, because you're phonating,
instead of just blowing breath.  

Therefore, "t" would be unvoiced, and "d" would be its
voiced partner (or cognate) -- made with the same
articulation, but "t" is just breath, and "d" is
voiced because the vocal folds are vibrating.  Some
other examples would be "k" and "g"; "f" and "v"; "p"
and "b"; the "th" of "three" and the "th" of "them";
the "sh" of "shame" and the "ch" of "church"; etc.

What can be confusing is if you forget and say the
NAME of the letter (as in "tee") as opposed to just
the letter ("t"), because as soon as you've said the
name, you've added a vowel, which has to be voiced. 
So my students sometimes get themselves in trouble
that way!

Then, of course, you get into the whole "is it a
fricative, stop plosive, lateral, nasal consonant"
stuff, as well as pure vowels, diphthongs, glides, etc
-- and trying to get my Kansas children to realize
that they don't write with "pins" is enough to make me
truly "mintal"!

Still awake?!

:)
KP


--- Wicked Frau <wickedfrau@earthlink.net> wrote:

> Cool!  So, just to be sure I understood correctly,
> the s in chemise is 
> heard (as the z sound).   The final mute e thing
> started to get me confused!
> 
> 
> Kathryn Parke wrote:
> 
> >If you're trying to make yourself sound as French
> as
> >possible, the s in "chemise" should be pronounced
> as a
> >z, because it is intervocalic.  (If there were no
> >final mute e, then the s would be silent, resulting
> in
> >"shuhMEE").
> >
> >  
> >
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: Kathryn Parke <kjp1685@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bayes stuffing in Breeches-now another few words...tulle
	and chemise
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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> 
> Therefore, "t" would be unvoiced, and "d" would be
> its
> voiced partner (or cognate) -- made with the same
> articulation, but "t" is just breath, and "d" is
> voiced because the vocal folds are vibrating.  Some
> other examples would be "k" and "g"; "f" and "v";
> "p"
> and "b"; the "th" of "three" and the "th" of "them";
> the "sh" of "shame" and the "ch" of "church"; etc.
> 


Sorry, going too fast -- a correction is needed to the
unvoiced/voiced consonant pairs!  "Sh" of ''shame" is
the partner of the "zh" sound of the "s" in
"pleasure," while the "ch" of "church" is the partner
to the "j" sound on both ends of "judge."

How my students would love to get a copy of this to
taunt me with!

:)
KP

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bayes stuffing in Breeches
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Sigh ... ya know your mind is not where it should be when all you can think 
after reading the above subject line is how lead singers for rock bands 
'stuff' their 'breeches' with a roll of quarters to look attractive. *wink*

(`'·.¸(`'·.¸(`'·.¸¸.·'´)¸.· '´)¸.·'´)
«·.·*¨`·¤   Chiara  ¤·´¨*·.·»
(¸.·'´(¸.·'´(¸.·'´`'·.¸)`'· .¸)`'·.¸) 

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From: Frank and Tracy Thallas <hardcorps@earthlink.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bayes stuffing in Breeches
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   I don't think I'd be impressed by quarters.  They'd need a roll of dollar coins, at the least.<GGG>

Liadain


-----Original Message-----
From: Chiara <chiara@io.com>
Sent: Dec 11, 2004 4:25 PM
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bayes stuffing in Breeches

Sigh ... ya know your mind is not where it should be when all you can think 
after reading the above subject line is how lead singers for rock bands 
'stuff' their 'breeches' with a roll of quarters to look attractive. *wink*

(`'·.¸(`'·.¸(`'·.¸¸.·'´)¸.· '´)¸.·'´)
«·.·*¨`·¤   Chiara  ¤·´¨*·.·»
(¸.·'´(¸.·'´(¸.·'´`'·.¸)`'· .¸)`'·.¸) 

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Half dollars or silver dollars, not the new gold ones..

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Frank and Tracy Thallas
Sent: Saturday, December 11, 2004 5:34 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bayes stuffing in Breeches


   I don't think I'd be impressed by quarters.  They'd need a roll of
dollar coins, at the least.<GGG>

Liadain


-----Original Message-----
From: Chiara <chiara@io.com>
Sent: Dec 11, 2004 4:25 PM
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bayes stuffing in Breeches

Sigh ... ya know your mind is not where it should be when all you can
think 
after reading the above subject line is how lead singers for rock bands 
'stuff' their 'breeches' with a roll of quarters to look attractive.
*wink*

(`'·.¸(`'·.¸(`'·.¸¸.·'´)¸.· '´)¸.·'´)
«·.·*¨`·¤   Chiara  ¤·´¨*·.·»
(¸.·'´(¸.·'´(¸.·'´`'·.¸)`'· .¸)`'·.¸) 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bayes stuffing in Breeches
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At 17:42 11/12/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>Half dollars or silver dollars, not the new gold ones..
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
>On Behalf Of Frank and Tracy Thallas
>Sent: Saturday, December 11, 2004 5:34 PM
>To: Historical Costume
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bayes stuffing in Breeches
>
>
>    I don't think I'd be impressed by quarters.  They'd need a roll of
>dollar coins, at the least.<GGG>
>
>Liadain
Pair of socks always did it in the theatre. Football socks if you were 
really boasting!!

Suzi


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Dec 11 19:22:55 2004
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From: Frank and Tracy Thallas <hardcorps@earthlink.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: OT-Gold dollar coins(was:RE: [h-cost] Bayes stuffing in Breeches
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Status: RO


   By the way, on a tangent - a gentleman who was deeply involved in
the development and design of the Sacajawea dollar, Richard Bratton, 
was from our town and recently passed away from pancreatic cancer.
He gave away thousands of Sacajaweas, and when on tour of Europe 
with our chamber singers, hid one in every cathedral and church he entered
up on the highest place he could reach (and he was a very tall man) - he thought
it might give a momentary thrill someday to a historian or really ambitious
 church-cleaning lady....<G>

Liadain

-----Original Message-----
From: Betsy Marshall <betsy@softwareinnovation.com>
Sent: Dec 11, 2004 4:42 PM
To: 'Historical Costume' <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bayes stuffing in Breeches

Half dollars or silver dollars, not the new gold ones..

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Frank and Tracy Thallas
Sent: Saturday, December 11, 2004 5:34 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bayes stuffing in Breeches


   I don't think I'd be impressed by quarters.  They'd need a roll of
dollar coins, at the least.<GGG>

Liadain


-----Original Message-----
From: Chiara <chiara@io.com>
Sent: Dec 11, 2004 4:25 PM
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bayes stuffing in Breeches

Sigh ... ya know your mind is not where it should be when all you can
think 
after reading the above subject line is how lead singers for rock bands 
'stuff' their 'breeches' with a roll of quarters to look attractive.
*wink*

(`'·.¸(`'·.¸(`'·.¸¸.·'´)¸.· '´)¸.·'´)
«·.·*¨`·¤   Chiara  ¤·´¨*·.·»
(¸.·'´(¸.·'´(¸.·'´`'·.¸)`'· .¸)`'·.¸) 

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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Bayes stuffing in Breeches
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Everyone knows that the most traditional "stuffing" is a cucumber in
tinfoil.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Frank and Tracy Thallas
Sent: Saturday, December 11, 2004 6:34 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bayes stuffing in Breeches


   I don't think I'd be impressed by quarters.  They'd need a roll of
dollar coins, at the least.<GGG>

Liadain


-----Original Message-----
From: Chiara <chiara@io.com>
Sent: Dec 11, 2004 4:25 PM
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bayes stuffing in Breeches

Sigh ... ya know your mind is not where it should be when all you can
think 
after reading the above subject line is how lead singers for rock bands 
'stuff' their 'breeches' with a roll of quarters to look attractive.
*wink*

(`'·.¸(`'·.¸(`'·.¸¸.·'´)¸.· '´)¸.·'´)
«·.·*¨`·¤   Chiara  ¤·´¨*·.·»
(¸.·'´(¸.·'´(¸.·'´`'·.¸)`'· .¸)`'·.¸) 

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Sandra Olsen wrote:

> Everyone knows that the most traditional "stuffing" is a cucumber in
> tinfoil.

So the Alien Mind-control Rays won't affect it?

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

Inside every old person is a young person wondering what happened.  -- 
Terry Pratchett
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Hehehe .... and round we go ... who would a thunk it that it would come to a 
reference to a card in the game of Illuminati from a company I actually used 
to work for! ;)

But ya know, this begs a question. 'Enhancements' through the ages used in 
costume. That would be a great class!

(`'·.¸(`'·.¸(`'·.¸¸.·'´)¸.· '´)¸.·'´)
«·.·*¨`·¤  Chiara   ¤·´¨*·.·»
(¸.·'´(¸.·'´(¸.·'´`'·.¸)`'· .¸)`'·.¸)
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cynthia Virtue" <cvirtue+dated+1118364350.543fdd@thibault.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 11, 2004 6:50 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] *ahem* Enhancement, was: Bayes stuffing in Breeches


: Sandra Olsen wrote:
:
: > Everyone knows that the most traditional "stuffing" is a cucumber in
: > tinfoil.
:
: So the Alien Mind-control Rays won't affect it?
:
: -- 
: Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent
:
: Inside every old person is a young person wondering what happened.  -- 
: Terry Pratchett
: _______________________________________________
: h-costume mailing list
: h-costume@mail.indra.com
: http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Liadain wrote:
>   I don't think I'd be impressed by quarters.  They'd need a roll of 
> dollar coins, at the least.<GGG>

Or at least a foil-rapped zucchini...
                  -Helen/Aidan 


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> 
> > Everyone knows that the most traditional "stuffing" is a cucumber in
> > tinfoil.

Speaking of cucumbers, there is the story told to me by a nurse friend of a 
yopung man who had a fall in a night club and was terrified of the prospect of 
having his tight, tight trousers cut off in the emergency ward.

Going back a couple of hundred years, I have found that the bulky shirts of the 
17-1800s formed natural padding,

-C.


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I guess it is where you come from.  My mother used to work at a medical 
center where they brought in a young man (from my school) who had a 
sausage tape to his leg.  (I don't know if it was wrapped or not).  He 
had passed out because his pants were too tight as I recall!

stilskin@netspace.net.au wrote:

>>>Everyone knows that the most traditional "stuffing" is a cucumber in
>>>tinfoil.
>>>      
>>>
>
>
>  
>
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Subject: Re: OT-Gold dollar coins(was:RE: [h-cost] Bayes stuffing in Breeches
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 > the development and design of the Sacajawea dollar, Richard Bratton,
 > was from our town and recently passed away from pancreatic cancer.

I'm so sorry to hear that. I try to use the gold dollar coins whenever I 
can.

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Subject: [h-cost] sealskin muff on ebay
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I hope this is an appropriate post for this list
(not my item -:)

possible early 20th century sealskin muff
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6728620300

---------
liz young
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sealskin muff on ebay
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 2004 10:16:34 -0700
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I dont think it could be that early if it has a Talon zipper, although 
I guess the zipper could have been added later.

Sylrog

On Dec 12, 2004, at 9:30 AM, Elizabeth Young wrote:

> I hope this is an appropriate post for this list
> (not my item -:)
>
> possible early 20th century sealskin muff
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6728620300
>
> ---------
> liz young
> _______________________________________________
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In a message dated 12/10/2004 6:33:47 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
kayta@frys.com writes:

> Earlier in the book he does.
> 

Y'know....I've never read it. Hmmmmm...

I wonder where that image we all conjure up of him comes from. I know it must 
be described in the book but y'know how illustrations cement in an 
image....like Alice in Wonderland and the Tenniel drawings.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bayes stuffing in Breeches-now another few
	words...tulleand chemise
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> The final mute e is a weird concept that mostly only
> singers deal with, because in the language, it IS
> mute, but for some reason, composers usually set it to
> its own note, so we have to sing it.  So "chemise" in
> speaking would be "shuMEEZ," while in singing (9 times
> out of 10), it would be set as "shuMEEZuh."  Why music
> should have evolved that way, I don't know, but it's
> pretty much consistent across the musical eras.

Probably because it's really, really hard to sing out the consonants if you 
don't also sing out the final vowel. At this point, I think it doesn't 
matter if it's mute or not... A French speaker just wouldn't recognize what 
"chemi" is, and I really can't picture an opera singer going 
"shuuuuuuu-meeeeeee-zzzzzzzzzzz"... you need to open up the sound to sing it 
out, and that means singing the final "e".

Also, the mute "e"s are almost always pronounced in poetry, except when 
they're right before another vowel. For example, you would pronounce it in 
"chemise noire", but not in "chemise épaisse". It's also always pronounced 
at the end of a line.

> HOWEVER, its presence does mean that
> the consonant before it would be sounded, because it's
> no longer a final consonant (usually this indicates
> masculine or feminine).

That works for adjectives, because you often make them fiminine by adding an 
"e", just like you would often make something plural by adding an "s", but 
there are tons of nouns where that's not true - it often even catches us 
native French-speakers :-) Oasis is feminine, but élève is masculine. Lots 
and lots of exceptions to the final "e" being feminine.

The voiced/unvoiced thing is fascinating. I'm a native French-speaker, but 
I'd never been presented the consonants as "pairs". Depending on the sounds 
I make though, I don't always get the pairs exactly out the same way. For 
example, I usually pronounce "d" with the very tip of my tongue, but "t" 
with the part slightly more at the back, flat against the roof of my mouth.

> Still awake?!

Yes. Fascinating. You have to realize though that I'm currently studying in 
translation - this stuff is just outside of our regular study, but close 
enough to be interesting. 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Kimiko Small <kimiko@kimiko1.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sealskin muff on ebay
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At 10:16 AM 12/12/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>I dont think it could be that early if it has a Talon zipper, although I 
>guess the zipper could have been added later.
>
>Sylrog


Hi Sylrog,

I agree. According to the reviews on Amazon.com about the book _Zipper: An 
Exploration in Novelty_ by Robert Friedel, it notes "Talon Inc. (HFC's 
corporate name since 1937...". So if the item has the name Talon on the 
zipper, it cannot be as vintage as 1920s as noted on the eBay item.

FWIW,

Kimiko


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Subject: Re: OT-Gold dollar coins(was:RE: [h-cost] Bayes stuffing in Breeches
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   He was a wonderful man, enthusiastic about everything in life - I think he had a
hand in the idea and design of the new "westward expansion" nickels too, but the dollars
were his baby....

Liadain
who has one that will never be spent...

-----Original Message-----
From: Widow Weeds <widowweeds@cs.com>
Sent: Dec 12, 2004 9:14 AM
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: OT-Gold dollar coins(was:RE: [h-cost] Bayes stuffing in Breeches

 > the development and design of the Sacajawea dollar, Richard Bratton,
 > was from our town and recently passed away from pancreatic cancer.

I'm so sorry to hear that. I try to use the gold dollar coins whenever I 
can.

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Muff
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I would also doubt that it is really sealskin.  I have a vintage (ca. 
1930's or '40's) fur coat that I got at an antique store that was specified 
as being sealskin.  While I bought it anyway, upon looking at the back of 
the skins, they were stamped with the word "coney" - in other words, 
rabbit.  When I looked at this item, it looks almost exactly like my coat.

Aside note - I bought the coat because:
         a) It was in really good condition
         b) The lining has silver cord passementerie ornamenting the lower 
halves of the front
         c)  It fit me - since I'm almost 6 feet tall and a size 18+, is 
really hard to do in vintage clothes.

Sandy

At 01:01 PM 12/12/2004, you wrote:

>From: Elizabeth Young <lizyoung@fenris.net>
>Subject: [h-cost] sealskin muff on ebay
>
>possible early 20th century sealskin muff
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6728620300
>
>liz young

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Date: Sun, 12 Dec 2004 21:43:13 -0800 (PST)
From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] *ahem* Enhancement, takes all kinds......
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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 An interesting side note,On the "Regency
House"special
previously mentioned, in one episode, the footmen were
teaching the men how to wear the Regency fashions. The
modern guys were alittle befuddled on what to do with
the extra long tails on the shirts. The Gentlemen's
manservent showed them how to gather the tail in the
front, twist it into a "tube" and stuff it into the
front of those tight white trousers. Like a padded
bra, for the front....false advertising if you ask me
;~>
Ta, Melody



--- stilskin@netspace.net.au wrote:
> snip

> Going back a couple of hundred years, I have found
> that the bulky shirts of the 
> 17-1800s formed natural padding,
> 
> -C.
> 
> 
>
------------------------------------------------------------
> This email was sent from Netspace Webmail:
> http://www.netspace.net.au
> 
> _______________________________________________
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1864 girl's dress
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> > Earlier in the book he does.
>
>Y'know....I've never read it. Hmmmmm...

I own the read-to-death remains of a first edition, and earlier he wears a 
boy's hat and jacket, the long hair, and a skirt.

>I wonder where that image we all conjure up of him comes from. I know it must
>be described in the book but y'know how illustrations cement in an
>image....like Alice in Wonderland and the Tenniel drawings.

The earliest editions are illustrated.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
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Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> kayta@frys.com 13/12/2004 06:11:58 >>>wrote:

>>I wonder where that image we all conjure up of him comes from. I
>>know it must be described in the book but y'know how illustrations
>>cement in an image....like Alice in Wonderland and the Tenniel    
>>drawings.

>The earliest editions are illustrated.


  And I believe the illustrations were based on the outfit worn at the
time by Mrs. Burnett's own son - and the book set a fashion which must
have been the curse of well-to-do young boys for years ..._____________
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-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Bjarne: You wrote:

I am just teasing, but are you aware about how much we pay in taxes for cars
in Denmark?
If i were to buy a luxury car with my wages, i could easy work for 5
years.............

Which is why you sensible Europeans have small, fuel efficient cars and good
mass transit systems. It seems like the European luxury taxes are kind of
like the sumptuary laws of old plus even in Jane Austen's day a decent
vehicle for two or more and the horses to pull them and the care and feeding
of said horses were for the very wealthy only. A singlewoman like Jane
Austen would have to depend on the kindness of family and friends and the
sometimes loan of a pony and pony cart to go anywhere her own two feet
couldn't take her.

Cindy Abel

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Greetings,

I don't seem to have kept the postings about the Book on the Birka 
finds.  Does anyone have the citation?  I am trying to decide what 
Santa Clause is bringing.  I have been a very good girl!  :D

Thanks!!

Althea Turner
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Date: Mon, 13 Dec 2004 13:17:08 -0600 (CST)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Birka Book
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On Mon, 13 Dec 2004, Althea Turner wrote:

> I don't seem to have kept the postings about the Book on the Birka
> finds.  Does anyone have the citation?  I am trying to decide what
> Santa Clause is bringing.  I have been a very good girl!  :D

Do you perhaps mean the brand-new book on the Greenland finds?

--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Books early-mid 1500s
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 2004 12:48:51 -0700
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> One follow-up question, though: is she good about including as much 
> information about the painting--date, location, title, 
> etc--as possible? I 
> have several books that drive me CRAZY on that point; it's 
> not even like the 
> information they left out was hard to find!

I don't think she includes location (at least I don't remember that) but she does include date and title and probably the artist, but again I'm not sure -- I'm at work and my copy's at home...
	sorry, I'll try to look it up tonight.
		-sunny 

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE: Books early-mid 1500s
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I double checked this -- most but not all pictures have date, title, location and artist. I'm not sure why some of them don't.
	-s

> > One follow-up question, though: is she good about including as much 
> > information about the painting--date, location, title, 
> > etc--as possible? I 
> > have several books that drive me CRAZY on that point; it's 
> > not even like the 
> > information they left out was hard to find!

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Birka Book
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Hi Robin,
I have the information on the Greenland book.  The one I am thinking of 
was a recent English version that came out in the last year or so.  
Norse isn't my regular haunts and wanted to add to my library.  I have 
friends that are requesting some garments and I want to be able to get 
it right.

Thank you!

Althea

On Monday, December 13, 2004, at 11:17 AM, Robin Netherton wrote:

>
> On Mon, 13 Dec 2004, Althea Turner wrote:
>
>> I don't seem to have kept the postings about the Book on the Birka
>> finds.  Does anyone have the citation?  I am trying to decide what
>> Santa Clause is bringing.  I have been a very good girl!  :D
>
> Do you perhaps mean the brand-new book on the Greenland finds?
>
> --Robin
Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com
*** http://www.alfalfapress.com

I think, therefore I'm dangerous.

I'll be Post-Feminist in a Post-Patriarchy

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I have a very long article in my online Library about written by the author 
about how she was inspired to write the LLF story about her son.

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, December 13, 2004 4:42 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fauntleroy suit, was 1864 girl's dress


>
>
> Kate Bunting
> Library, University of Derby
>
>>>> kayta@frys.com 13/12/2004 06:11:58 >>>wrote:
>
>>>I wonder where that image we all conjure up of him comes from. I
>>>know it must be described in the book but y'know how illustrations
>>>cement in an image....like Alice in Wonderland and the Tenniel
>>>drawings.
>
>>The earliest editions are illustrated.
>
>
>  And I believe the illustrations were based on the outfit worn at the
> time by Mrs. Burnett's own son - and the book set a fashion which must
> have been the curse of well-to-do young boys for years ..._____________
> _______________________________________________
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From: Chris <emeraldepona@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Birka Book
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hi,
 
The book I think you're refering to is: Woven into the Earth, Else Ostergard.  I got a copy from Http://www.oxbowbooks.com
 
Wonderful folk and expect the book to take about 10 days to arrive.
 
Regards,
Chris G.

Althea Turner <althea@alfalfapress.com> wrote:
Hi Robin,
I have the information on the Greenland book. The one I am thinking of 
was a recent English version that came out in the last year or so. 
Norse isn't my regular haunts and wanted to add to my library. I have 
friends that are requesting some garments and I want to be able to get 
it right.

Thank you!

Althea


		
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: vintage corsets in Chicago
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While in Chicago doing Christmas shopping this weekend, one of the stops, of course, had to be Marshall Field's on State Street. While going up and down the escalators, we stopped on the lingerie floor, and what to my wondering eyes should appear, but authentic vintage corsets from their collection! So, anyone who is in the area should definitely stop by!

Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agness Cabot

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Status: RO

How about Illerup Adal?  This is a condensation, in English, of what had been a 9 volume set in German showing the finds of an archeological dig in Jutland.  Lots of great stuff, but not clothing.  I don't have it on my web site, but I do carry it.

Janet

Janet Davis
Castle Furnishings
www.medievalbookstore.com
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From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Nice and EZ pattern for Dicken's fest
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Hi All,
I need opinions on patterns for a nice,relatively
quick and EZ pattern for a 12 th  night progressive
Dinner with Dicken's....circa 1860-65,(Queen Vicki's
rein)
It will be a "progressive Dinner " at 4 Victorian
houses, beginning at 8:30 at night.
You will be moved by horse drawn carriage to each
sucessive house for the next course, so I'd guess kind
of a "Fancy Suit" type of gown, as opposed to a
Ballgown.
 I'll be making 8  "step-up and step-downs' out of a
carriage,plus any steps going in and out of the
houses.
I was thinking smallish hoop...
 Victorian dress is encouraged for this event,and I'd
like it to be of a usable style for a Dickens street
faire that happens a month later. 
Any ideas for a "fancy,but not too fancy-as if going
to a ball "type outfit and WHo makes the pattern.
I'd have to be able to have it done by Jan.8 th.
I'm about a "5 out of 10" rank sewer. I know my way
around a machine, I pre-shrink, I occassionally sew
the arms on backwards, but I DO catch it :~>
Me: I stand 5 ft tall, no heels, petite frame, short
waist and arms.Full bust, proportionate waist and hip.
I have lt.auburn hair, sallow complexion,short neck.
 That's me in a nut shell.
 I'd have to be able to get the pattern quickly,so...
God yes I'm gonna say it... If there is a big 3
pattern you all think would work...give me a yell
please.
 I always end up having no garb, as I am always making
it for others, and just mish-mash,mundane stuff I have
to "resemble " where I'm "playing",for me. This time
I'd like to have my own special outfit,just this once.
Thanks for listening,
Melody..


		
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> Y'know....I've never read it. Hmmmmm...
> 
> I wonder where that image we all conjure up of him comes 
> from. I know it must 
> be described in the book but y'know how illustrations cement in an 
> image....like Alice in Wonderland and the Tenniel drawings.

My favourite image of Alice is from an edition published in the 1920's.
She's depicted as this thin waif-like figure in a pale-coloured print
dress..... I liked it so much it seems to have overwritten my
conditioned imprint of the Tenniel Alice.

Though Dodgeson's own illos for the original manuscript he gave Alice
Liddel were quite nice, if not overly artistically talented.

Teddy 
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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	<BAY7-DAV35866BD5FED6DC15DE3394FAAC0@phx.gbl>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Birka Book
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2004 11:00:44 +0100
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He,
I am not interrested in viking age, but i know that Birka is a location in 
Sweden.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "JAMES OGILVIE" <bear_janet@msn.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 14, 2004 6:53 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Birka Book


How about Illerup Adal?  This is a condensation, in English, of what had 
been a 9 volume set in German showing the finds of an archeological dig in 
Jutland.  Lots of great stuff, but not clothing.  I don't have it on my web 
site, but I do carry it.

Janet

Janet Davis
Castle Furnishings
www.medievalbookstore.com
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From: Lena Strid <lstrid@mglarc.com>
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I cannot recall any recently published books on Birka, but have you asked at
the Historiska varldar forum (english sub-forum far down on page) or at
Norsefolk? Someone there ought to know. Is it any specific subject you are
interested in?

http://www.historiska.se/histvarld/forum
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Norsefolk_2

Good luck, and let us know what you find.

/Lena



=================================================
Margaret Gowen & Co. Ltd.
Archaeological Consultants & Project Managers
2 Killiney View                   Tel: 01-2300433
Albert Road Lower                 Fax: 01-2300865
Glenageary         e-mail: archaeology@mglarc.com
Co. Dublin	   website: http://www.mglarc.com
=================================================

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nice and EZ pattern for Dicken's fest
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In a message dated 12/14/2004 3:56:57 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
celticredhead2002@yahoo.com writes:

If there  is a big 3
pattern you all think would work...give me a  yell
please.



Take a look at Simplicity 4851.
 
Ann Wass
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Hi,
Today i finally finished the stomacher.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/chenillestumpwork.htm
You can click the pictures to enlarge.........

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/

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Oooooh, Bjarne, it's *exquisite!*
--sue

Bjarne Drews wrote:

> Hi,
> Today i finally finished the stomacher.
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/chenillestumpwork.htm
> You can click the pictures to enlarge.........


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As usual, your work is stunning!! I'd love to be able to see it up close and personal, will it be in the US at some point?


Karen



-- "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
Hi,
Today i finally finished the stomacher.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/chenillestumpwork.htm
You can click the pictures to enlarge.........

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/

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Oh. My. God.

It's perfect. How lovely!

Arlys, in awe

On Tue, 14 Dec 2004 14:31:41 +0100 "Bjarne og Leif Drews"
<drewscph@post12.tele.dk> writes:
> Hi,
> Today i finally finished the stomacher.
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/chenillestumpwork.htm
> You can click the pictures to enlarge.........
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 

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Hi,
Today i finally finished the stomacher.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/chenillestumpwork.htm
You can click the pictures to enlarge.........

Bjarne


WOW.

Can I be you if I grow up? ;)

Where do you find your inspirations? I imagine that your personal
library is the envy of many!

Kate
A dark shade of chartreuse with envy

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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net (Elena O'Tighearnaigh)
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] stomacher finished
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2004 16:00:59 +0000
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*Sigh*
So wonderful.....
--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> Hi, 
> Today i finally finished the stomacher. 
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/chenillestumpwork.htm 
> You can click the pictures to enlarge......... 
> 
> Bjarne 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews 
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk 
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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*Sigh*
So wonderful.....
--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> Hi, 
> Today i finally finished the stomacher. 
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/chenillestumpwork.htm 
> You can click the pictures to enlarge......... 
> 
> Bjarne 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews 
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk 
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] stomacher finished
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*Sigh*
So wonderful.....
--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> Hi, 
> Today i finally finished the stomacher. 
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/chenillestumpwork.htm 
> You can click the pictures to enlarge......... 
> 
> Bjarne 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews 
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk 
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Birka Book
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Greetings all,

Thanks for all the input!  I recall the book was a translation of 
Geijer or Hald, but I could be wrong.  (Maybe it's not as new as I 
thought) I will check around some more and report back what I find.  
Thanks again!

Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com
*** http://www.alfalfapress.com

I think, therefore I'm dangerous.

I'll be Post-Feminist in a Post-Patriarchy

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From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Books early-mid 1500s
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Thank you! I do believe this book will be a huge help to me with an upcoming 
project. C'mon, book budget, regenerate....

-E House

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <sunshine_buchler@agilent.com>


>I double checked this -- most but not all pictures have date, title, 
>location and artist. I'm not sure why some of them don't.

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I"m gonna try and figure out why my email keeps resending the stomacher response..

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares
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As usual, your work is stunning!! I'd love to be able to see it up close and 
personal, will it be in the US at some point?


Karen

Thanks Karen.
Well i actually am making this for a lady who lives on Manhattan in New 
York, so perhaps you would bump into her sometime when she goes to a ball?

Bjarne






Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] stomacher finished
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2004 10:02:06 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Beautiful, as usual, Bjarne.  You might want to change the spelling of 
"mock-up".  You've got it as "muck up", which gives it an entirely 
different and totally, when describing your work, inappropriate meaning 
;-)

Sylrog

On Dec 14, 2004, at 6:31 AM, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Hi,
> Today i finally finished the stomacher.
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/chenillestumpwork.htm
> You can click the pictures to enlarge.........
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
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Magnificent, as usual.  And more to come.  I can't wait to see the finished 
dress- this one looks to be even more incredible than the one you just 
completed for the museum.
                        -Helen/Aidan


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>
>
> WOW.
>
> Can I be you if I grow up? ;)
>
> Where do you find your inspirations? I imagine that your personal
> library is the envy of many!
>
> Kate
> A dark shade of chartreuse with envy

Dear Kate,
I have ben collecting books about embroidery the last few years, and also a 
subscription for an australian embroidery magazine called Inspirations.
It has ben very inspiring for me, it is loaded with gorgeous 
embroideries..........
Hope your shade has turned back to normal :-)

Bjarne
>
> _______________________________________________

> 


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  Absolutely beautiful!  The birds are fantastic and made me smile...

Liadain

-----Original Message-----
From: Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
Sent: Dec 14, 2004 6:31 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] stomacher finished

Hi,
Today i finally finished the stomacher.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/chenillestumpwork.htm
You can click the pictures to enlarge.........

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/

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  Hiccups. <G>

Liadain

-----Original Message-----
From: Elena O'Tighearnaigh <elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net>
Sent: Dec 14, 2004 9:18 AM
To: Costume Historical <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] oops...looks like a button's stuck...

I"m gonna try and figure out why my email keeps resending the stomacher response..

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares
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Hi,
You have ben absolutely wonderfull with all your phraises and responds with 
the stomacher. I thank you of all my heart! It is so lovely that i have you 
all to show my work, i sit here alone and have no others to share. Leif has 
seen so much of my things, so i cant impress him anymore :-)
Now if only you could help me with a dilemma of mine.
You probably all have followed the embroidery i made with the pale blue 
duchesse satin i have embroidered with chenille. I have made 1/2 a front, 
(left side) I planned to make a copy of Gustav III's weddingsuit of it.
Well i dont like it! And i have ben given it many thoaghts.
I would like to trash this projekt, i know it is a shame with the embroidery 
i have made all ready, but i really want to make something else of the 
fabric. I have 6 meters left of it, and it is 140 cm. wide so i could have 
plenty if i made a later suit, like the suit i have made last.
I just found a lovely motif i could make it with, with the flowers of the 
gum tree. I would make it with the flat japanese silk thread....
What do you think?

Thanks for your advises

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 15:32:13 2004
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From: Frank and Tracy Thallas <hardcorps@earthlink.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] your feedback
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  I think you should make what you want to make - there is no joy in
working on something you don't like!  Perhaps the embroidery you have already
done can be recycled into something else?  Some sort of small items, gifts,
whatever, and then even that won't have been wasted!

Liadain

-----Original Message-----
From: Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
Sent: Dec 14, 2004 12:14 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] your feedback

Hi,
You have ben absolutely wonderfull with all your phraises and responds with 
the stomacher. I thank you of all my heart! It is so lovely that i have you 
all to show my work, i sit here alone and have no others to share. Leif has 
seen so much of my things, so i cant impress him anymore :-)
Now if only you could help me with a dilemma of mine.
You probably all have followed the embroidery i made with the pale blue 
duchesse satin i have embroidered with chenille. I have made 1/2 a front, 
(left side) I planned to make a copy of Gustav III's weddingsuit of it.
Well i dont like it! And i have ben given it many thoaghts.
I would like to trash this projekt, i know it is a shame with the embroidery 
i have made all ready, but i really want to make something else of the 
fabric. I have 6 meters left of it, and it is 140 cm. wide so i could have 
plenty if i made a later suit, like the suit i have made last.
I just found a lovely motif i could make it with, with the flowers of the 
gum tree. I would make it with the flat japanese silk thread....
What do you think?

Thanks for your advises

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 15:36:12 2004
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2004 12:34:09 -0800 (PST)
From: "Angharad ver' Reynulf" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] your feedback
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Bjarne, 

In my small experience, if you're not happy with the
project/outfit-you won't wear it or use it afterwards.

So change projects if you've got the fabric to do so.

I'm sure you could find willing people to adopt the
embroidery already done.  They could possibly
integrate it into something else, and be able to say
that part was embroidered by Bjarne!

Angharad/wolfcat

(definitely part of that crowd of possible adopters)


--- Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
wrote:
 I planned to make a copy of Gustav III's
> weddingsuit of it.
> Well i dont like it! And i have ben given it many
> thoaghts.
> I would like to trash this projekt, i know it is a
> shame with the embroidery 
> i have made all ready, but i really want to make
> something else of the 
> fabric. 

__________________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 19:11:50 2004
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] stomacher finished
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It is gorgeous. You did a wonderful job. Can't wait to see the finished 
product.

Jan
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 14, 2004 7:31 AM
Subject: [h-cost] stomacher finished


> Hi,
> Today i finally finished the stomacher.
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/chenillestumpwork.htm
> You can click the pictures to enlarge.........
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 20:09:07 2004
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Subject: [h-cost] Vogue Pattern
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Status: RO

Greetings All!

I just picked up a "Vintage Vogue" pattern (#2354). Has anyone here made
this, and if you have do you have any pointers/tips/warnings about the
pattern and the fit?

http://store.sewingtoday.com/cat/itm_img/V2354.jpg

I have a lovely dark blue 'tessa' satin, I plan on using the matte side for
the dress, with the accent/skirt flare in the satin.

I plan on having this done for January for a party my Mom is having (She's
wearing a real vintage dress from roughly the same year, I figured we should
look related ;-)

Thanks!

Sheridan


*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*
You are only young once,
but you can stay immature indefinitely.

Ogden Nash


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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2004 17:14:15 -0800
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Vogue Pattern
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This dress is on my to-do list, but I haven't made it yet. Please send us a
report! And pictures if possible. I'd really love to see it made up!

LynnD


On 12/14/04 5:08 PM, "Shane & Sheridan" <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

> Greetings All!
> 
> I just picked up a "Vintage Vogue" pattern (#2354). Has anyone here made
> this, and if you have do you have any pointers/tips/warnings about the
> pattern and the fit?
> 
> http://store.sewingtoday.com/cat/itm_img/V2354.jpg
> 
> I have a lovely dark blue 'tessa' satin, I plan on using the matte side for
> the dress, with the accent/skirt flare in the satin.
> 
> I plan on having this done for January for a party my Mom is having (She's
> wearing a real vintage dress from roughly the same year, I figured we should
> look related ;-)
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Sheridan
> 
> 
> *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*
> You are only young once,
> but you can stay immature indefinitely.
> 
> Ogden Nash
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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In a message dated 12/14/2004 4:48:37 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
Teddy@mdx.ac.uk writes:

> My favourite image of Alice is from an edition published in the 1920's.
> 

Arthur Rackhem? Great Illustrator!

And I love Ralph Steadman's pen & inks for both Alice books and "The Hunting 
of the Snark. But even he does his own take on the Tenniel.

Here are some links....

the Amazon has some of the book's pages you can view.

 Amazon.com: Books: Alice in Wonderland 

 Ralph Steadman -|- B O O K S 
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On Tuesday 14 December 2004 3:14 pm, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> Hi,
> You have ben absolutely wonderfull with all your phraises and responds with
> the stomacher. I thank you of all my heart! It is so lovely that i have you
> all to show my work, i sit here alone and have no others to share.  Leif has 
> seen so much of my things, so i cant impress him anymore :-)

 We're glad to give you an appreciative audience for your work.


> Now if only you could help me with a dilemma of mine.
> You probably all have followed the embroidery i made with the pale blue
> duchesse satin i have embroidered with chenille. I have made 1/2 a front,
> (left side) I planned to make a copy of Gustav III's weddingsuit of it.
> Well i dont like it! And i have ben given it many thoaghts.
> I would like to trash this projekt, i know it is a shame with the
> embroidery i have made all ready, but i really want to make something else
> of the fabric. I have 6 meters left of it, and it is 140 cm. wide so i
> could have plenty if i made a later suit, like the suit i have made last.
> I just found a lovely motif i could make it with, with the flowers of the
> gum tree. I would make it with the flat japanese silk thread....
> What do you think?

I wholeheartedly agree with the person who said, go ahead and do a new 
project.  There's nothing worse than forcing yourself to finish a sewing 
project you dislike and no longer have any interest in.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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Subject: [h-cost] My Polonaise
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I have pictures from my new dress.
Last saturday my husband and I went to a Christmas party and we went in 
18th century clothing.
We got a lot of nice compliments and had lots of fun.
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/18thcent/18woman/Polonaise/Robe.html

Greetings,
       Deredere

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Deredere,

I love the fabric print that you chose for the corset!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com 
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com 
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com

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Subject: [h-cost] Books on Ecclesiastical Embroidery
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I'm looking for books on ecclesiastical embroidery in England both before
and after the reformation and was wondering if anyone could recommend any
good sources, journals as well would also be great.

I have come accross the following book:Clothed in Majesty: European Ecclesiastical
Textiles from the Detroit Institute of Arts by Peter Barnet.  Has anyone
heard of it and is it any good?

Thanks

Rachel


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Vogue Pattern
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On Tue, 14 Dec 2004, Shane & Sheridan wrote:
> I just picked up a "Vintage Vogue" pattern (#2354). Has anyone here made
> this, and if you have do you have any pointers/tips/warnings about the
> pattern and the fit?
> http://store.sewingtoday.com/cat/itm_img/V2354.jpg

I made this dress in a real hurry this September (as in, I decided in
the afternoon that I needed another dress for the event I was going to
the next day and sewed it up that evening/night).

First, I should say that I'm not really used to sewing from commercial
patterns. Not to say that I haven't made a few outfits, but I usually
just fiddle about with shapes and make my clothes through a process of
trial and error.

I'm a bit short-waisted and always have to shorten commercial patterns
by a couple of inches in the waist, which this pattern doesn't make
allowances for so I had to redraft. If you don't have to do this you
should have an easier time of it. I struggled a bit because I live alone
and don't have a dressmaker's dummy, so fitting myself is sometimes a
bit of a pain.

One thing I will advise is to measure the pattern pieces themselves
before making any alterations. (I always tell others this, but then I
just stupidly and lazily go ahead and skip that step myself...) Judging
from the measurements given on the pattern envelope I needed to enlarge
it somewhat, which I did - and ended up with a skirt so huge in the
waist that I just left one of the panels out in the end; then it fit
perfectly. Which probably means that there was no need to enlarge it in
the first place, however this was as I said a bit quick-and-dirty so I
can't be sure. :)

> I have a lovely dark blue 'tessa' satin, I plan on using the matte side for
> the dress, with the accent/skirt flare in the satin.

I'm not sure what a "tessa" satin is, but I used a crepe back satin with
the matte side for the dress and the accent in satin as you describe.
The dress actually turned out quite nice, although not perfect, in the
end despite my hurried alterations. So if I can do it in one night you
should have absolutely no problem getting it done before January. :)
Good luck!

Ingrid

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Hi folks... Finally got my copy of "Woven into the Earth"!!!!   Almost 
devoured it last night.  Just had to tell someone who would understand.   : >
Mari / Bridgette


Mari Stewart
Webmaster
College of Veterinary Medicine
Cornell University


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On Wed, 15 Dec 2004, M Stewart wrote:

> Hi folks... Finally got my copy of "Woven into the Earth"!!!!  Almost
> devoured it last night.  Just had to tell someone who would
> understand.  : >

I know that feeling!

I am swimming in riches. In the past two weeks I have received "Woven into
the Earth," the new edition of "Dress in Anglo-Saxon England," and a
review copy of a collection of essays on medieval/renaissance clothing and
culture (the product of a conference of a few years ago).

I'm swamped in work and haven't had a chance to look at *any* of them yet.
I'm hoping I will have time over the holidays. Oh, wait, I'm
self-employed. I don't get holidays...

--Robin

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From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Alice illos (WAS:1864 girl's dress)
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> > My favourite image of Alice is from an edition published in the 
> > 1920's.
> > 
> 
> Arthur Rackhem? Great Illustrator!

Now tht you mention it, it may well have been a Rackham - certainly in
that style - All my Alice books are in storage (along with most of my
other books - <grump!>) so I can't check.

Teddy
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Ooops....I forgot I can't just drag links into the e-mails on H-costume...

Here are the Ralph Steadman links.....which [of course] have nothing to do 
with costuming.

Amazon:


http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1552977544/002-0192701-1304872?v=glance


Ralph Steadman:

http://www.ralphsteadman.com/01books.asp
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Very elegant! That 1st pic of you in it is luscious! The absence of period 
details like engagents and a bit of chemise at the neckline makes the dress 
almost look modern albeit very romantic. I know you have lavished the dress with 
period detail so I don't mean this "modern" comment as an insult in any way. 
But without the lacy accessories, you could wear it on the red carpet at the 
Oscars. Just lovely.

With the lacy bits, you could wear it in "Le Nozzi di Figaro", Contessa.

Remember a while back when evening dresses had almost real 18th century 
bodices...conical shaped with no darts and they HAD to be boned. I can remember a 
fashion ad with Geena Davis in an off white one...bare foot 
[????????.....fashion photography! Good Grief!]
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 12:41:09 2004
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From: Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] My Polonaise
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Hi.

I actually left out the period details on purpose :-) .
Because it was a normal party.
My husband was in his Captain Jack Sparrow coat with modern pants and 
shirt and a almost period vest.
I thougt it would be better to wear the clothing with a touch of modern fun.
And I think it worked. :-)

Greetings,
       Deredere


AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

>Very elegant! That 1st pic of you in it is luscious! The absence of period 
>details like engagents and a bit of chemise at the neckline makes the dress 
>almost look modern albeit very romantic. I know you have lavished the dress with 
>period detail so I don't mean this "modern" comment as an insult in any way. 
>But without the lacy accessories, you could wear it on the red carpet at the 
>Oscars. Just lovely.
>
>With the lacy bits, you could wear it in "Le Nozzi di Figaro", Contessa.
>
>Remember a while back when evening dresses had almost real 18th century 
>bodices...conical shaped with no darts and they HAD to be boned. I can remember a 
>fashion ad with Geena Davis in an off white one...bare foot 
>[????????.....fashion photography! Good Grief!]
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>  
>

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 12:59:12 2004
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From: Chris <emeraldepona@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My Polonaise
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Great job!  You look fantastic and so does the 'bunny'.  Question, did you find the back of the corset tough to fit?  I have been wanting to make one, but keep shying away, chicken that I am.
 
Thanks for sharing,
Chris G.

Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl> wrote:
I have pictures from my new dress.
Last saturday my husband and I went to a Christmas party and we went in 
18th century clothing.
We got a lot of nice compliments and had lots of fun.
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/18thcent/18woman/Polonaise/Robe.html

Greetings,
Deredere

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] FINALLY!!!!
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*Big Smile*  I got mine last Friday and did the same thing.  Spent way to much time over the weekend with my nose in that book.  Isn't it GREAT?  I'm re-reading now at a MUCH slower pace.
 
:)  Chris G.

M Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu> wrote:

Hi folks... Finally got my copy of "Woven into the Earth"!!!! Almost 
devoured it last night. Just had to tell someone who would understand. : >
Mari / Bridgette


Mari Stewart
Webmaster
College of Veterinary Medicine
Cornell University


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  Oooo, pretty!  The colors are a little off on my monitor - is the gown pale blue? silver?
The fabric is spiff...

Liadain
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
Sent: Dec 15, 2004 4:23 AM
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] My Polonaise

I have pictures from my new dress.
Last saturday my husband and I went to a Christmas party and we went in 
18th century clothing.
We got a lot of nice compliments and had lots of fun.
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/18thcent/18woman/Polonaise/Robe.html

Greetings,
       Deredere

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Greetings Bjarne,

     I was wondering if you provide me with the publication information on=
=20
the book you mentioned:
Fru Kirstens B=F8rn : Misses Kirstens Children , so I can hopefully find it=
=20
closer to home. Any edition in any language would be helpful.

     Thanks,
     Heather Stecher
 =20

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On Wednesday 15 December 2004 9:27 am, M Stewart wrote:
> Hi folks... Finally got my copy of "Woven into the Earth"!!!!   Almost
> devoured it last night.  Just had to tell someone who would understand.   

I was at a science fiction convention and one of my favorite book dealers had 
it, so I bought it.  You're right.  It's truly excellent---but I haven't had 
the time to "devour" it all yet.  Lucky you.... :-)

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] FINALLY!!!!
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On Wednesday 15 December 2004 10:52 am, Robin Netherton wrote:
> On Wed, 15 Dec 2004, M Stewart wrote:
> > Hi folks... Finally got my copy of "Woven into the Earth"!!!!  Almost
> > devoured it last night.  Just had to tell someone who would
> > understand.  : >
>
> I know that feeling!
>
> I am swimming in riches. In the past two weeks I have received "Woven into
> the Earth," the new edition of "Dress in Anglo-Saxon England," and a
> review copy of a collection of essays on medieval/renaissance clothing and
> culture (the product of a conference of a few years ago).

I ordered "Dress in Anglo-Saxon England" from Amazon, but they haven't told me 
they've got it yet.  Just as well--I still have Christmas presents to pay 
for.  :-)


>
> I'm swamped in work and haven't had a chance to look at *any* of them yet.
> I'm hoping I will have time over the holidays. Oh, wait, I'm
> self-employed. I don't get holidays...

Make time.  "Woven" alone is worth it, and it sounds as though you've got a 
real gold mine to dig through.  :-)



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] FINALLY!!!!
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>From whom did you get your copy of "Dress in Anglo-Saxon England"?  I too, have a copy on order from Amazon, but it is not to be had...
 
Thanks!
Chris G.

Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com> wrote:
On Wednesday 15 December 2004 10:52 am, Robin Netherton wrote:
> On Wed, 15 Dec 2004, M Stewart wrote:
> > Hi folks... Finally got my copy of "Woven into the Earth"!!!! Almost
> > devoured it last night. Just had to tell someone who would
> > understand. : >
>
> I know that feeling!
>
> I am swimming in riches. In the past two weeks I have received "Woven into
> the Earth," the new edition of "Dress in Anglo-Saxon England," and a
> review copy of a collection of essays on medieval/renaissance clothing and
> culture (the product of a conference of a few years ago).

I ordered "Dress in Anglo-Saxon England" from Amazon, but they haven't told me 
they've got it yet. Just as well--I still have Christmas presents to pay 
for. :-)


>
> I'm swamped in work and haven't had a chance to look at *any* of them yet.
> I'm hoping I will have time over the holidays. Oh, wait, I'm
> self-employed. I don't get holidays...

Make time. "Woven" alone is worth it, and it sounds as though you've got a 
real gold mine to dig through. :-)



-- 
Cathy Raymond 

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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Bjarne:

I think you should cut out the piece that you have already made, mount it on
silk of a contrasting color, and frame it! It would look like a piece left
over from an antique tailor's shop, and it would be gorgeous. Then make
whatever you want out of the rest of the fabric, and have a lovely piece of
art for your apartment.

Or . . . you could sell the framed piece on ebay (I bet someone from this
list would buy it) and use the money to buy more embroidery silk!

Gail Finke

PS: The stomacher is SO lovely. I think the sketch of the dress is beautiful
too! 


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Bjarne,

If the coat is almost finished and mostly sewn together, you could always
finish it and sell it to someone, work as good as yours should find a buyer
fairly easily.

Otherwise I agree with everyone else, take what you have and cut it apart
for its embroidery, take the rest of your fabric and make something you will
be happy with.

Sheridan


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>From whom did you get your copy of "Dress in Anglo-Saxon England"?  I too, have a copy on order from Amazon, but it is not to be had...

According to the publisher, as of about a week and a half ago, the copies for America are on a boat in the middle of the Atlantic.  (So maybe by now they're at the publishers or sitting on a dock in New Jersey...)  They were not expected to be to booksellers in time for Christmas sales.

Janet

Janet Davis
Castle Furnishings
www.medievalbookstore.com
 
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On Wednesday 15 December 2004 10:27 pm, Chris wrote:
> From whom did you get your copy of "Dress in Anglo-Saxon England"?  I too,
> have a copy on order from Amazon, but it is not to be had...

No, I got "Woven into the Earth."  I'm still waiting for Amazon to send me 
"Dress in Anglo-Saxon England."

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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On Wednesday 15 December 2004 11:04 pm, Gail & Scott Finke wrote:
> Bjarne:
>
> I think you should cut out the piece that you have already made, mount it
> on silk of a contrasting color, and frame it! It would look like a piece
> left over from an antique tailor's shop, and it would be gorgeous. Then
> make whatever you want out of the rest of the fabric, and have a lovely
> piece of art for your apartment.
>
> Or . . . you could sell the framed piece on ebay (I bet someone from this
> list would buy it) and use the money to buy more embroidery silk!

You certainly could!  (I'd buy it, if I had wall space left, or money).  :-)


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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On Wednesday 15 December 2004 11:29 pm, JAMES OGILVIE wrote:
> From whom did you get your copy of "Dress in Anglo-Saxon England"?  I too,
> have a copy on order from Amazon, but it is not to be had...
>
> According to the publisher, as of about a week and a half ago, the copies
> for America are on a boat in the middle of the Atlantic.  (So maybe by now
> they're at the publishers or sitting on a dock in New Jersey...)  They were
> not expected to be to booksellers in time for Christmas sales.

I checked on Amazon right after I sent my post, and the US Amazon web site is 
claiming that it will deliver my copy between December 20 and January 7.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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I'm looking forward to that feeling, myself.  Kris Kringle visited my 
house with his credit card yesterday, so to speak, and will be 
delivering (in January) the "Woven Into the Earth" book, the Gale 
Owen-Crocker book, and what I think is probably the same compilation 
that Robin's referring to (although I'd have to look at the receipt to 
be sure of the title, and it's on the computer at work).
Plus an advanced-order for the first volume of the new journal we're all 
so eagerly awaiting ;o)
Boy, howdy, did I (uh, Santa) qualify for free shipping! <weg>
Oh, and Robin, Happy Hanukkah.
--sue, looking forward to post-holiday days, when she can get back to 
working on a new outfit....

Robin Netherton wrote:

> On Wed, 15 Dec 2004, M Stewart wrote:
> 
> 
>>Hi folks... Finally got my copy of "Woven into the Earth"!!!!  Almost
>>devoured it last night.  Just had to tell someone who would
>>understand.  : >
> 
> 
> I know that feeling!
> 
> I am swimming in riches. In the past two weeks I have received "Woven into
> the Earth," the new edition of "Dress in Anglo-Saxon England," and a
> review copy of a collection of essays on medieval/renaissance clothing and
> culture (the product of a conference of a few years ago).
> 
> I'm swamped in work and haven't had a chance to look at *any* of them yet.
> I'm hoping I will have time over the holidays. Oh, wait, I'm
> self-employed. I don't get holidays...


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FINALLY!!!!
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On Wed, 15 Dec 2004, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:

> > I am swimming in riches. In the past two weeks I have received "Woven into
> > the Earth," the new edition of "Dress in Anglo-Saxon England," and a
> > review copy of a collection of essays on medieval/renaissance clothing and
> > culture (the product of a conference of a few years ago).
> 
> I ordered "Dress in Anglo-Saxon England" from Amazon, but they haven't
> told me they've got it yet.  Just as well--I still have Christmas
> presents to pay for.  :-)

I don't know if it's shipping officially yet. I got mine from an inside
source (the author!). It may well be the only copy on this side of the
pond so far.

--Robin



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] FINALLY!!!!
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On Thursday 16 December 2004 1:57 am, Robin Netherton wrote:
> On Wed, 15 Dec 2004, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:
[snip]
> > I ordered "Dress in Anglo-Saxon England" from Amazon, but they haven't
> > told me they've got it yet.  Just as well--I still have Christmas
> > presents to pay for.  :-)
>
> I don't know if it's shipping officially yet. I got mine from an inside
> source (the author!). It may well be the only copy on this side of the
> pond so far.
>
Ah, yes.  It's good to know the author.  :-)  

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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Subject: [h-cost] More book news (was: FINALLY!!!!)
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On Wed, 15 Dec 2004, Sue Clemenger wrote:

> I'm looking forward to that feeling, myself.  Kris Kringle visited my
> house with his credit card yesterday, so to speak, and will be
> delivering (in January) the "Woven Into the Earth" book, the Gale
> Owen-Crocker book, and what I think is probably the same compilation
> that Robin's referring to (although I'd have to look at the receipt to
> be sure of the title, and it's on the computer at work).

The one I have is this:

Clothing Culture, 1350-1650
Catherine Richardson, ed.
https://www.ashgate.com/shopping/title.asp?key1=&key2=&orig=results&isbn=0%207546%203842%201

(Sue, if you have something else, let us know what it is, please!)

I actually had a copy of this one in hand a few months ago (and read part
of it then), as I was asked to review it for another journal. After I had
a look at it, I passed that honor on to a scholar whose specialty area is
closer to that of the other journal, who could better address the
interests of that audience. Then I decided that I should review it for
_Medieval Clothing & Textiles,_ so I ordered my own review copy (which
is what arrived last week).

Despite the title, most of the papers focus on 16th c. or so, and many are
very theoretical (literary symbolism, etc.). K'zoo and Leeds regulars will
recognize some of the authors.

Now, I have a nice tidbit via a colleague in England. Does anyone here
recall "The Inventories of Henry VIII," edited by David Starkey? You'll
find an incomplete entry for it here:

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1872501893/qid%3D1103176949/104-6818051-8175153

The publication was intended to be two volumes (or maybe three -- I can't
remember if illustrations were going to be separate). The first volume,
which appeared in 1998, was the transcript of the inventory itself. The
second volume was to be the analysis -- with contributions from some of
the top experts in the various material culture fields relevant to the
inventory's contents (which include clothing, among other things).

Anyway, the promised Vol. 2 did not appear in 2002 as planned, and all
discussion of it seemed to drop off the map. Then yesterday I heard that
the project has been revived and is now in process again. My source is
one of the contributors, so is reliable.

I bought a copy of Volume 1 -- which is *enormous* -- at Kalamazoo in May
1999, and (reluctantly) sold it to a member of this list last year, when I
realized I was probably never going to use it and I really should invest
the money in books I needed more.

--Robin


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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au>
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Subject: [h-cost] fixing a regency costume
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Hello to all the Regency experts out there (and everybody else)
I have a dress which I made from Simplicity's Ever After pattern (8735) this
was one of my first attempts at SCA garb but I don't want to wear it for SCA
purposes anymore as it has darts (which are inappropriate for pre 17th
century clothing) I thought I might be able to convert it into something
passably regencyesque for another group I'm involved with where polyester
satin wouldn't stick out like a sore thumb.
So far I know I've got to re-pleat the skirt to concentrate the pleats at
the back leaving the front flat, but what should I do about the bodice. I
could extend the dart to create a faux princess seam pointing to either the
corner of the neckline or the arm seam or just leave the dart as it is.
Does anybody have any suggestions for somebody who knows nothing about
Regency beyond what I have seen on TV and looking at Janet Arnold's Patterns
of Fashion once or twice. I know it's not ideal for the purpose but I don't
want to throw out this dress and this is the only way I think I'll ever wear
it again.
Thanks
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au

Mr. Speaker, I said the honourable member was a liar it is true and I am
sorry for it. The honourable member may place the punctuation where he
pleases.
Richard Brinsley Sheridan (1751-1816) British dramatist. On being asked to
apologise for calling a fellow MP a liar. Attrib.

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Thanks!
The fabric is a pale blue with just a touch of green and the outlines of 
the leaves are gold metallic.
I put a scan from the fabric on my webpage.


Frank and Tracy Thallas wrote:

>  Oooo, pretty!  The colors are a little off on my monitor - is the gown pale blue? silver?
>The fabric is spiff...
>
>Liadain
> 
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
>Sent: Dec 15, 2004 4:23 AM
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] My Polonaise
>
>I have pictures from my new dress.
>Last saturday my husband and I went to a Christmas party and we went in 
>18th century clothing.
>We got a lot of nice compliments and had lots of fun.
>http://www.deredere.dds.nl/18thcent/18woman/Polonaise/Robe.html
>
>Greetings,
>       Deredere
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] My Polonaise corset
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  :-)
That little Bunny is my Back pack.
You can see more of them here
http://www.mystictimes.nl/MysticBunny.html

About the corset.
I unfortunally find the wole corset tough to fit.
Fhirst I had reeds for boning in my corset but I've got some awfull 
bruses on my hips.
I think the corset may be to schort for me.
But the back looks to high. I just don't know where every thing really 
schould be.
Like how long the corset has to be to sit right. How high the neckline 
or back schould be...
The reeds made the corset to thick an I decided to take al boning out 
and replace the front and some of the back boning by metal.
I didnt put any boning on the sides.
But now the corset doesn't seem to give the right support. It just makes 
me look flat :-( .
I wonder if that artificial boning stuf would be right.
I think metal isn't flexibale enough and reeds are tho thick.

I wish that someone could make a drawing of a womans body and put lines 
on where wich line of corset schould be.
How high the neckline, where the waist, where the corset schould end so 
it doesn't dig in the hips, where the straps schould be placet, how high 
the back schould be......
Would make it a lot esear to make a pattern fit .
In every period it seems to be different what silhouette the corset 
should give.

Chris wrote:

>Great job!  You look fantastic and so does the 'bunny'.  Question, did you find the back of the corset tough to fit?  I have been wanting to make one, but keep shying away, chicken that I am.
> 
>Thanks for sharing,
>Chris G.
>
>Deredere Galbraith <triade@kabelfoon.nl> wrote:
>I have pictures from my new dress.
>Last saturday my husband and I went to a Christmas party and we went in 
>18th century clothing.
>We got a lot of nice compliments and had lots of fun.
>http://www.deredere.dds.nl/18thcent/18woman/Polonaise/Robe.html
>
>Greetings,
>Deredere
>
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>  
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Greetings--

> On Wednesday 15 December 2004 10:27 pm, Chris wrote:
> > From whom did you get your copy of "Dress in Anglo-Saxon England"?  I
too,
> > have a copy on order from Amazon, but it is not to be had...
>
> No, I got "Woven into the Earth."  I'm still waiting for Amazon to send me
> "Dress in Anglo-Saxon England."

When I ordered mine (about two weeks ago) they were saying 3-5 weeks for
delivery.

Susan

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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] My Polonaise corset
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> That little Bunny is my Back pack.
> You can see more of them here
> http://www.mystictimes.nl/MysticBunny.html

eek! I want one:) It reminds me a *lot* of an anime bunny of some sort....
I'm just not sure which... perhaps one of Chii's companions?


> But now the corset doesn't seem to give the right support. It just makes
> me look flat :-( .
> I wonder if that artificial boning stuf would be right.
> I think metal isn't flexibale enough and reeds are tho thick.

I would recommned either artificial whale bone or cable ties.

When you have as many boning channels as you do have, the cable ties are
certainly rigid enough.

I wish I had a photo of me wearing my stays alone, but I used about 100
cable ties to make up the Effigy corset for under my Spanish garb:
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/valois.htm

And it is incredibly comfortable. I just need to cut the tabs a little
higher so the top edge of the stays sits lower (it digs into my armpit a bit
much just now.)

The support is such that I am given the conical shape, but it's soft enough
that it doesn bruise or poke about too much.

So those are my findings.

I think your polonaise is lovely too btw:) The colours and the shaping is so
simple and flattering:)

michaela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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michaela wrote:

>>That little Bunny is my Back pack.
>>You can see more of them here
>>http://www.mystictimes.nl/MysticBunny.html
>>    
>>
>
>eek! I want one:) It reminds me a *lot* of an anime bunny of some sort....
>I'm just not sure which... perhaps one of Chii's companions?
>  
>
Yup!
They were my inspiration to make the bunnies.
I sell the bunnies for 40 Euros and they come with one dress.
There can skweek if you press them by the neck :-) .
We have also different collours like offwhite, dark grey and dark brown

>I would recommned either artificial whale bone or cable ties.
>
>When you have as many boning channels as you do have, the cable ties are
>certainly rigid enough.
>  
>
Thanks! I think I will try the plastc boning next time.
It indeed looks like it does give the right support without making thick.

>I wish I had a photo of me wearing my stays alone, but I used about 100
>cable ties to make up the Effigy corset for under my Spanish garb:
>http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/valois.htm
>  
>
It looks very pretty!

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <000001c4e357$acb94760$bd93d6cb@ewalpole>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fixing a regency costume
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 08:20:05 -0500
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But there is a lot of yardage in the skirt..I don't think that the bodice or
sleeve could successfully make the transition.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au>
To: "historic costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2004 4:22 AM
Subject: [h-cost] fixing a regency costume


> Hello to all the Regency experts out there (and everybody else)
> I have a dress which I made from Simplicity's Ever After pattern (8735)
this
> was one of my first attempts at SCA garb but I don't want to wear it for
SCA
> purposes anymore as it has darts (which are inappropriate for pre 17th
> century clothing) I thought I might be able to convert it into something
> passably regencyesque for another group I'm involved with where polyester
> satin wouldn't stick out like a sore thumb.
> So far I know I've got to re-pleat the skirt to concentrate the pleats at
> the back leaving the front flat, but what should I do about the bodice. I
> could extend the dart to create a faux princess seam pointing to either
the
> corner of the neckline or the arm seam or just leave the dart as it is.
> Does anybody have any suggestions for somebody who knows nothing about
> Regency beyond what I have seen on TV and looking at Janet Arnold's
Patterns
> of Fashion once or twice. I know it's not ideal for the purpose but I
don't
> want to throw out this dress and this is the only way I think I'll ever
wear
> it again.
> Thanks
> Elizabeth
> --------------------------------------------
> Elizabeth Walpole
> Canberra Australia
> ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au
>
> Mr. Speaker, I said the honourable member was a liar it is true and I am
> sorry for it. The honourable member may place the punctuation where he
> pleases.
> Richard Brinsley Sheridan (1751-1816) British dramatist. On being asked to
> apologise for calling a fellow MP a liar. Attrib.
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: Lynoure Braakman <lynoure@tuug.fi>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] My Polonaise corset
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On Thu, 16 Dec 2004, Deredere Galbraith wrote:

> I think the corset may be to schort for me.
> But the back looks to high. I just don't know where every thing really 
> schould be.

I think the back looks fine. It's supposed to be rather high compaterd to 
the front. Lenghtwise, lenghtening the front at the bottom so that 
the sides stay at the level they are now (and front tabs would be a 
little lower) might do the trick.

> But now the corset doesn't seem to give the right support. It just makes me 
> look flat :-( .

Horizontal bones are annoying to put in but they make world of a 
difference in support. But before that you might want to try lifting your 
breasts in mid lacing. That can help too, as it makes sure the breast are 
supported high instead of pressed down.

> I wonder if that artificial boning stuf would be right.
> I think metal isn't flexibale enough and reeds are tho thick.

I really like artificial whalebone in pre-19th century corsets. And there 
are many widths of it... the narrowest I got is just 3 mm wide.

> How high the neckline, where the waist, where the corset schould end so it 
> doesn't dig in the hips, where the straps schould be placet, how high the 
> back schould be......

Apart fron the lenght, diggin in the hips can be cause d by couple of 
things, e.g. too short tabs. If the tabs start too much below your waist 
they are likely to dig in. And if you have prominent hip bones, try not to 
have tabs end so that they rub in that area.

-- 
Lynoure Braakman
lynoure@tuug.fi
http://www.lynoure.com (a costumer and corset maker in Finland)
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At 3:23 AM -0700 12/16/04, h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
>I ordered "Dress in Anglo-Saxon England" from Amazon, but they haven't told me
>they've got it yet.  Just as well--I still have Christmas presents to pay
>for.  :-)

Wally World (higher priced than Amazon) is listing 2/28 as the pub 
date....Just as well as Rose Whippet impaled herself on a stick and 
had mega vet $$$....and the Bress book on coverlets is out... 
WAHHAAAAAAA so many books so little money!

Ta
Carol
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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Oooh, that's *not* the one I was getting....which was something else
entirely (book on Anglo-Saxon crafts).  I'm definitely going to look for 
  that book on Clothing Culture, though!
I did find these two others, though, which I put on a "wish list" for my
family, who knows I like books, but can't keep track of which ones I
have and don't have....
"Medieval Fabrications : Dress, Textiles, Clothwork, and Other Cultural
Imaginings (The New Middle Ages)" by E. Jane Burns
and
"Encountering Medieval Textiles and Dress: Objects, Texts, Images" by 
Desiree G. Koslin.
Have you heard of these? Any opinions?
--sue

Robin Netherton wrote:

> On Wed, 15 Dec 2004, Sue Clemenger wrote:
> 
> 
>> I'm looking forward to that feeling, myself.  Kris Kringle visited 
>> my house with his credit card yesterday, so to speak, and will be 
>> delivering (in January) the "Woven Into the Earth" book, the Gale 
>> Owen-Crocker book, and what I think is probably the same 
>> compilation that Robin's referring to (although I'd have to look at
>>  the receipt to be sure of the title, and it's on the computer at 
>> work).
> 
> 
> The one I have is this:
> 
> Clothing Culture, 1350-1650 Catherine Richardson, ed. 
> https://www.ashgate.com/shopping/title.asp?key1=&key2=&orig=results&isbn=0%207546%203842%201
> 

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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On Thu, 16 Dec 2004, Sue Clemenger wrote:

> Oooh, that's *not* the one I was getting....which was something else
> entirely (book on Anglo-Saxon crafts).  I'm definitely going to look
> for that book on Clothing Culture, though!

Sue, I'd love to get details on the A-S book; we might want to review it.

> "Medieval Fabrications : Dress, Textiles, Clothwork, and Other
> Cultural Imaginings (The New Middle Ages)" by E. Jane Burns

Not out yet, I think; I asked for a review copy some weeks ago but haven't
heard back from the publisher. Page is here:

http://www.palgrave-usa.com/catalog/product.aspx?isbn=1403961875

Jane Burns is the author of "Courtly Love Undressed" and a world-class
scholar best known for her work in 12th c. French literature. Her research
has expanded to address things like textile trade in this period (we were
delighted to have her in a DISTAFF session on Cloth Trade at K'zoo last
year), though her focus is often on the cultural, symbolic, and rhetorical
significance of dress and textiles in this period. This book is a
collection of papers by many scholars (including many names, and a few
papers, familiar to K'zoo attendees). The description on the Palgrave site
will give you a sense of its focus and level. There will probably be a few
nuggets for the practical costumer here (e.g. on sumptuary law and trade,
and quoted references to costume that may be useful in their own right),
but most appears to be analyses of symbolic and theoretical issues.

> "Encountering Medieval Textiles and Dress: Objects, Texts, Images" by
> Desiree G. Koslin.

This is has been out for several years now. Page is here:

http://www.palgrave-usa.com/Catalog/product.aspx?isbn=0312293771

It's another essay collection, again with a heavy emphasis on lit crit and
art history. I saw most of these papers at K'zoo when first presented. The
book will have some useful bits for people doing work in certain areas
but, again, mostly focuses on the theoretical rather than practical issues
of costume.

A word of warning: Often the people who do serious and well-respected work
on dress/textile topics in literature, art history, and social history are
not familiar with current work and practical issues of clothing and
textiles. Costumers may be surprised and disconcerted when they stumble
across outdated or incorrect statements about what was worn and how it was
made. This reflects the severe contamination of the existing literature on
costume history with decades-old unsupported assumptions. That doesn't
mean that the rhetorical analyses are not valid; it does limit the
usefulness of the work to the practical costume researcher. Still, you can
often get a lot of good primary source references (quotes from documents
and literature, for instance) even from a paper that has no bearing on
practical aspects. 

On the other hand, many practical costumers could benefit from a better
understanding of how dress references were used for rhetorical and
symbolic purposes in literature and art, and how that affects the use of
pictures and literaary quotes as practical sources.

--Robin

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From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fixing a regency costume
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Elizabeth Walpole wrote:


> I have a dress which I made from Simplicity's Ever After pattern (8735) this
> was one of my first attempts at SCA garb but I don't want to wear it for SCA
> purposes anymore as it has darts (which are inappropriate for pre 17th
> century clothing) I thought I might be able to convert it into something
> passably regencyesque for another group I'm involved with where polyester
> satin wouldn't stick out like a sore thumb.


Which version of the pattern did you make? If I recall, there were three 
bodice variations and some sleeve-like things. Do you have any of the 
fabric left over, or can you get more of it?



Dawn


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From: "Five Rivers" <lgsteph@wightman.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] Water embroidery
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    I've finished the last of the series of four wall embroideries I
designed. Water can be found at:
http://www.5rivers.org/en-gb/dept_33.html

    Now, to design myself a modern, female version of an early 18th century
waistcoat. I have some cream wool/silk twill, an embroidery pattern from the
wedding garments of The Dauphin in 1754, and very itchy fingers. :-)

Regards
Lorina
Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage
fine hand-sewn embroidered garments, historical sewing patterns & embroidery
supplies
(519) 799-5577, http://www.5rivers.org  email: info@5rivers.org


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Water embroidery
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Beautiful!

Five Rivers <lgsteph@wightman.ca> wrote:I've finished the last of the series of four wall embroideries I
designed. Water can be found at:
http://www.5rivers.org/en-gb/dept_33.html



		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] FINALLY!!!!
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Status: RO

Thank you Janet.  I greatly appreciate the information
 
Chris G.

JAMES OGILVIE <bear_janet@msn.com> wrote:
>From whom did you get your copy of "Dress in Anglo-Saxon England"? I too, have a copy on order from Amazon, but it is not to be had...

According to the publisher, as of about a week and a half ago, the copies for America are on a boat in the middle of the Atlantic. (So maybe by now they're at the publishers or sitting on a dock in New Jersey...) They were not expected to be to booksellers in time for Christmas sales.

Janet

Janet Davis
Castle Furnishings
www.medievalbookstore.com

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Thanks again and I'm going to check on mine right now.  Ohhhh I can NOT wait to see what's been updated.
 
Have a Wonderful Holiday Everyone!
Chris G.

Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com> wrote:
On Wednesday 15 December 2004 11:29 pm, JAMES OGILVIE wrote:
> From whom did you get your copy of "Dress in Anglo-Saxon England"? I too,
> have a copy on order from Amazon, but it is not to be had...
>
> According to the publisher, as of about a week and a half ago, the copies
> for America are on a boat in the middle of the Atlantic. (So maybe by now
> they're at the publishers or sitting on a dock in New Jersey...) They were
> not expected to be to booksellers in time for Christmas sales.

I checked on Amazon right after I sent my post, and the US Amazon web site is 
claiming that it will deliver my copy between December 20 and January 7.


-- 
Cathy Raymond 

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  > "Medieval Fabrications : Dress, Textiles, Clothwork, and Other
  > Cultural Imaginings (The New Middle Ages)" by E. Jane Burns

  Not out yet, I think; I asked for a review copy some weeks ago but haven't
  heard back from the publisher. Page is here:

  http://www.palgrave-usa.com/catalog/product.aspx?isbn=1403961875


  Actually, it is out - I got a copy from my wholesale distributor in November.  Better nag them again for your review copy.

  Janet

  Janet Davis
  Castle Furnishings
  www.medievalbookstore.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] FINALLY!!!!
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Ahhh and good for you :-)  Yes, definitely a good treasure!

Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:
On Wed, 15 Dec 2004, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:

> > I am swimming in riches. In the past two weeks I have received "Woven into
> > the Earth," the new edition of "Dress in Anglo-Saxon England," and a
> > review copy of a collection of essays on medieval/renaissance clothing and
> > culture (the product of a conference of a few years ago).
> 
> I ordered "Dress in Anglo-Saxon England" from Amazon, but they haven't
> told me they've got it yet. Just as well--I still have Christmas
> presents to pay for. :-)

I don't know if it's shipping officially yet. I got mine from an inside
source (the author!). It may well be the only copy on this side of the
pond so far.

--Robin



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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 14:29:32 2004
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Subject: [h-cost] magician clothing?
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Hey, y'all.

I've gotten a query from a friend regarding appropriate clothing for a
magician during the "high Middle Ages".  Does anyone have any ideas of
even where to begin looking--any references, etc? I'm pretty much at a
loss--this is way out of my area of interest.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

With regards,
ailith/kate

Should we complain that there are thorns on the rose bush or should we
rejoice that the thorn bush has roses?

~ unknown


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ailith wrote:
> I've gotten a query from a friend regarding appropriate clothing for a
> magician during the "high Middle Ages".

He would have been learned to be an alchemist, so probably mid-to-upper 
middle class.  So he should dress like an upper middle class person from 
wherever and whenever, I think.

I get this sort of question a lot from kids doing reports for school. 
I'd be happy to hear if y'all have other answers or books to check. (I 
usually send them to _Life in a Medieval City_.)  There seems to be some 
idea that everyone had uniforms unique to their job (not merely useful 
clothes in addition to whatever their social position was, like an apron 
for a baker, or whatever.)

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

Are you at peace with your role in the food chain?  Would you like a 
t-shirt with a medieval horseman and hawk on it?  A mug which tells you 
which way to the Egress?  http://www.cafepress.com/virtueventures
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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On Thu, 16 Dec 2004, JAMES OGILVIE wrote:

>   Actually, it is out - I got a copy from my wholesale distributor in November.  Better nag them again for your review copy.


Thanks, Janet. I've just done so.

--Robin

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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 12:51:34 -0800 (PST)
From: Ghislaine-SCA <sidoniaros@yahoo.com>
To: apprentice@yahoogroups.com, tree <MKEvergreen@yahoogroups.com>,
        Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: [Apprentice] magician clothing?
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Greetings!

If I may, there truly is no "magician's garb" or at
least nothing very distinctive that exists in the
Middle Ages or in the Renaissance.  

Magician's were known for their abilities, but not for
their clothing unlike, Rom fortune tellers of the time
or fools.

Magician's/magic entertainers wore everyday attire.

If you wish more information regarding effects or
history, please don't hesitate to ask.


Ghislaine,
Apprenticed for Medieval/Renaissance performance magic
to Master Juan Santiago, Laurel for Magic, Kingdom of
the West.


--- ailith <ailith@neo.rr.com> wrote:

> Hey, y'all.
> 
> I've gotten a query from a friend regarding
> appropriate clothing for a
> magician during the "high Middle Ages".  Does anyone
> have any ideas of
> even where to begin looking--any references, etc?
> I'm pretty much at a
> loss--this is way out of my area of interest.
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated!
> 
> With regards,
> ailith/kate
> 
> Should we complain that there are thorns on the rose
> bush or should we
> rejoice that the thorn bush has roses?
> 
> ~ unknown
> 
> 
> 



		
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] magician clothing?
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>>I've gotten a query from a friend regarding appropriate clothing for a
>>magician during the "high Middle Ages".
>
>He would have been learned to be an alchemist, so probably mid-to-upper 
>middle class.  So he should dress like an upper middle class person from 
>wherever and whenever, I think.

I saw a print from the 1600s, I believe, and it showed the alchemist as a 
poor person scraping money together to do each experiment, and ending up in 
the poor house.  His clothes, and that of his family, also shown, were 
raggy working class clothes.  Obviously an unsuccessful alchemist.

I don't think there were any actual magicians or wizards in the "high 
Middle Ages", altho I seem to recall that people were burned at the stake 
because of this assumption.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] fixing a regency costume
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, December 17, 2004 2:41 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fixing a regency costume


> Elizabeth Walpole wrote:
>
>
> > I have a dress which I made from Simplicity's Ever After pattern (8735)
this
> > was one of my first attempts at SCA garb but I don't want to wear it for
SCA
> > purposes anymore as it has darts (which are inappropriate for pre 17th
> > century clothing) I thought I might be able to convert it into something
> > passably regencyesque for another group I'm involved with where
polyester
> > satin wouldn't stick out like a sore thumb.
>
>
> Which version of the pattern did you make? If I recall, there were three
> bodice variations and some sleeve-like things. Do you have any of the
> fabric left over, or can you get more of it?
> Dawn

I made the one with the U shaped neckline (I think it's view B but it's not
labelled on the picture) If you look at the picture here
http://snipurl.com/bf69 (the full URL is
http://www.simplicity.com/designNavigator.cfm?designId=10642&design=8735)
the I made the bodice from the one on the bottom right and the sleeves from
the one on the left. You can see the dress in it's current incarnation at
http://www.gbacg.org/Patterns/simplicity.htm It's the second review from the
top and the photo is thoroughly unflattering.
I don't have any scraps and I doubt I could get any more of this fabric as I
bought it about 4-5 years ago, I could have a look as poly satin is
something they always have in stock, but matching the colour may not be
possible. (although Kathleen has suggested removing some of the fullness
from the skirt rather than just re- pleating it would be a good option so I
could possibly use some fabric out of the skirt to cover the worst of the
bodice's imperfections)
I have sewn in the sleeves from this pattern before (for a temporary
makeover from Italian ren to Regencyish) it is possible but it doesn't allow
much give and I think the seam would be under a lot of strain. But when I
was looking at the Regency movies (BBC's P&P and Persuasion) I noticed a few
dresses with gauzy sleeves in a similar colour to the body of the gown, so
might that be an option?
Thanks,
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au

Mr. Speaker, I said the honourable member was a liar it is true and I am
sorry for it. The honourable member may place the punctuation where he
pleases.
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apologise for calling a fellow MP a liar. Attrib.

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Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

> I saw a print from the 1600s, I believe, and it showed the alchemist as 
> a poor person scraping money together to do each experiment, and ending 
> up in the poor house.  

But there were also wealthy alchemists, like John Dee, by that time.

> I don't think there were any actual magicians or wizards in the "high Middle Ages", altho I seem to recall that people were burned at the stake because of this assumption. 

Right.

I suppose she could ask her friend exactly what the friend thinks about 
magicians in the middle ages, and narrow things down that way.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

A third of all American visitors to Scotland believe haggis is an animal.
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-- "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au> wrote:
Hi Elizabeth,


Based on the photo, I'd definitely repleat the skirt and discard the current sleeves. I'd make myself a little mannish shirt to go underneath it, worn in jumper fashion (American jumper/dress) and whip up a cute little Spencer jacket of a coordinating material to wear over it. Trim a little bonnet to match and call it good.


Karen



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, December 17, 2004 2:41 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fixing a regency costume


> Elizabeth Walpole wrote:
>
>
> > I have a dress which I made from Simplicity's Ever After pattern (8735)


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In a message dated 12/16/2004 6:27:16 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
seamstrix@juno.com writes:

I'd make  myself a little mannish shirt to go underneath it, worn in jumper 
fashion  (American jumper/dress) and whip up a cute little Spencer jacket of a  
coordinating material to wear over it. Trim a little bonnet to match and call 
 it good.



Ah, yes, the oft-overlooked jumper.  Rather common in English fashion  
plates.  That could work, too.  Probably wouldn't even need the  spencer.
 
Ann Wass
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In a message dated 12/16/2004 5:48:54 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au writes:

But when  I
was looking at the Regency movies (BBC's P&P and Persuasion) I  noticed a few
dresses with gauzy sleeves in a similar colour to the body of  the gown, so
might that be an option?



I haven't ever seen contrast sleeves--I have, though, seen sheer  
undersleeves tied on under the short sleeve of the gown. These separate  sleeves, though, 
are usually white, I believe.
 
Satin isn't very common in the early 19th century, either.  And unless  this 
is a strictly costume event you are planning to wear it to, polyester satin  
kind of shouts its presence, I think.  (I shouldn't talk, though.  As  I 
confessed on this list a while ago, I once made a very sketchy impression of  an 
18th century ballgown in KNITTED poly satin, with zipper no less.   OUCH!)
 
It is probably a LOT more work than you want to do, but you COULD make a  
whole sheer white overdress of a filmy cotton (look at Target for Indian cotton  
curtains--great yardage cheap) and use your existing dress as the  underdress 
(called a slip, but cut more or less like the dress, not what we  think of as 
the slip).  Make the modifications to the skirt you discussed,  and cut the 
sleeves short, or remove them--I have seen one of these slips that  was 
sleeveless.  Leave the overdress perfectly plain, or tart it up for the  1810s with 
silk flowers to match the slip, tucks, or whatever.
 
Ann Wass  
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From: Ghislaine-SCA <sidoniaros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] magician clothing?
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If I may, there was a distinct difference in the
attitude that folks held for magicians and alchemists
in period (pre 1600).  Magicians were entertainers. 
Alchemists were philosophers and scholars.

Sorry for not expounding more here, but I'm at work
and am limited on time.

I should write more extensively this evening.

Mdm Ghislaine


--- Cynthia Virtue
<cvirtue+dated+1118788931.174242@thibault.org> wrote:

> Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> 
> > I saw a print from the 1600s, I believe, and it
> showed the alchemist as 
> > a poor person scraping money together to do each
> experiment, and ending 
> > up in the poor house.  
> 
> But there were also wealthy alchemists, like John
> Dee, by that time.
> 
> > I don't think there were any actual magicians or
> wizards in the "high Middle Ages", altho I seem to
> recall that people were burned at the stake because
> of this assumption. 
> 
> Right.
> 
> I suppose she could ask her friend exactly what the
> friend thinks about 
> magicians in the middle ages, and narrow things down
> that way.
> 
> -- 
> Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent
> 
> A third of all American visitors to Scotland believe
> haggis is an animal.
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Elizabeth Walpole wrote:
> 
> I made the one with the U shaped neckline 


Bearing in mind that what I know about this period would fit into a 
thimble, this is what I suggest: look through some fashion plates and 
nail down a specific image with the same neckline, and look around for a 
couple images from the same year and find a small puffy capped sleeve. 
You want something like the red dress on this page: 
http://www.songsmyth.com/patternsgowns.html

The idea here is to find something with trim details to copy. From what 
I've seen there is usually a little delicate lace or something around 
the neckline, and coordinating ribbon or something on the sleeve and the 
waist. And then maybe ribbon or lace at the hem. Styles seem to change 
dramatically from year to year during this period, so I wouldn't do too 
much picking and choosing from across the decades.

Then cut up the sleeves you currently have and make the capped version. 
You'll probably have to piece the sleeves, but I think there will be 
enough and you might be able to hide the seams with trim.

Add a shawl and a bonnet and you should be all set. Butterick has a 
couple of bonnet patterns, one of them should be adaptable for the period.




Dawn


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The only reason I suggested a Spencer was that it would cover a multitude of costuming sins on the bodice. And I really like little Spencer jackets......so I guess that's two reasons. 8-)



Karen



-- AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:
 
In a message dated 12/16/2004 6:27:16 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
seamstrix@juno.com writes:

I'd make  myself a little mannish shirt to go underneath it, worn in jumper 
fashion  (American jumper/dress) and whip up a cute little Spencer jacket of a  
coordinating material to wear over it. Trim a little bonnet to match and call 
 it good.



Ah, yes, the oft-overlooked jumper.  Rather common in English fashion  
plates.  That could work, too.  Probably wouldn't even need the  spencer.
 
Ann Wass
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] magician clothing?
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>>I saw a print from the 1600s, I believe, and it showed the alchemist as a 
>>poor person scraping money together to do each experiment, and ending up 
>>in the poor house.
>
>But there were also wealthy alchemists, like John Dee, by that time.

Proving that we can't fix this profession in any one social class.  That 
makes the choices broader.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
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Subject: [h-cost] Henry VIII era garment books (was: More book news)
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Hello Robin,

You are a godsend! You have provided me with more books to add to my ILL 
research list for a project I am working on (early Tudor garments/ Henry 
VIII focus). I only wish my budget would allow me such high end books... 
maybe for my birthday in the Spring, if I can hint loudly enough to my husband.

If you hear any more on the Henry VIII will Vol 2, please let me know. What 
snippets Cunnington has given from Henry's will in her book has whetted my 
appetite for more. I would love to see the analysis from experts in the field.

And yes I finally got my copy of  the Cunnington book on 16th Century 
clothing. It really is an incredible book. Finally, a book of that time 
frame that really has detailed what was worn, what it was called, when it 
was worn, when popular in court, or worn in the country, etc. Why I took so 
long to finally get this book ... well, the price was why. But I am so 
happy with it, I have already devoured quite a chunk in one day.

However, the books I have read recently have really been contrary to each 
other in some respects, which isn't a surprise. Even Cunnington confuses me 
regarding kirtles vs gowns. How does one deal with the inconsistencies with 
regards to historical garments that really only can be dealt with by 
looking at images, wills, statues, brasses, etc. and little to no extent 
garments? I am taking notes as I read, so I may come to this list with 
specific queries later.

Thanks so much,

Kimiko




At 01:23 AM 12/16/2004 -0600, you wrote:
><snip>>
>Clothing Culture, 1350-1650
>Catherine Richardson, ed.
>https://www.ashgate.com/shopping/title.asp?key1=&key2=&orig=results&isbn=0%207546%203842%201
>
><snip>>
>Now, I have a nice tidbit via a colleague in England. Does anyone here
>recall "The Inventories of Henry VIII," edited by David Starkey? You'll
>find an incomplete entry for it here:
>
>http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1872501893/qid%3D1103176949/104-6818051-8175153
>
>The publication was intended to be two volumes (or maybe three -- I can't
>remember if illustrations were going to be separate). The first volume,
>which appeared in 1998, was the transcript of the inventory itself. The
>second volume was to be the analysis -- with contributions from some of
>the top experts in the various material culture fields relevant to the
>inventory's contents (which include clothing, among other things).
>
>Anyway, the promised Vol. 2 did not appear in 2002 as planned, and all
>discussion of it seemed to drop off the map. Then yesterday I heard that
>the project has been revived and is now in process again. My source is
>one of the contributors, so is reliable.
>
>I bought a copy of Volume 1 -- which is *enormous* -- at Kalamazoo in May
>1999, and (reluctantly) sold it to a member of this list last year, when I
>realized I was probably never going to use it and I really should invest
>the money in books I needed more.
>
>--Robin



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Bjarne,

Lovely as always. Thanks for sharing your beautiful work with us.

Kimiko




At 02:31 PM 12/14/2004 +0100, you wrote:
>Hi,
>Today i finally finished the stomacher.
>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/chenillestumpwork.htm
>You can click the pictures to enlarge.........
>
>Bjarne

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Water embroidery
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Hello Lorina,

At 11:25 AM 12/16/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>     I've finished the last of the series of four wall embroideries I
>designed. Water can be found at:
>http://www.5rivers.org/en-gb/dept_33.html

Wow, that is just incredible. Thanks for sharing your lovely work with us.

>     Now, to design myself a modern, female version of an early 18th century
>waistcoat. I have some cream wool/silk twill, an embroidery pattern from the
>wedding garments of The Dauphin in 1754, and very itchy fingers. :-)

That sounds interesting. Have a photo of the wedding garments you could share?

>Regards
>Lorina
>Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage
>fine hand-sewn embroidered garments, historical sewing patterns & embroidery
>supplies
>(519) 799-5577, http://www.5rivers.org email: info@5rivers.org


Kimiko

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Henry VIII era garment books (was: More book news)
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On Thu, 16 Dec 2004, Kimiko Small wrote:

> I only wish my budget would allow me such high end books...  maybe for
> my birthday in the Spring, if I can hint loudly enough to my husband.

ILL is probably the best way to go for the Inventory unless you're doing
long-term, in-depth work. Still, it's over 500 pages, meaning it would
take longer to go through it than your ILL might allow you, and Xeroxing
would be prohibitive (particularly since the type is small and the pages
big, IIRC.

If there's a university library near you that has it, you might be able to
do some extensive research there, on multiple visits. If you don't have
access to WorldCat or the equivalent, let me know where you are and I'll
see if I can direct you to a catalogued copy.

As for buying, an alibris search turns up a copy at $156, which is the
lowest I've seen. abebooks has another at $180. They range up to $325 or
so at the moment.

> If you hear any more on the Henry VIII will Vol 2, please let me know.

I'll notify the list if I hear progress. The contributor I got my
information from is still writing her section; the topic came up because
she wants to footnote a paper that's scheduled to appear in our journal in
*2006.* I frankly wouldn't be surprised if that issue of the journal hits
print well before Vol. 2 of the Inventory does.

--Robin


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Oh my, Lorina, they're exquisite!
What kind of embroidery do you want to do on the waistcoat? There's one 
that's also 18th c., IIRC, that I've always wanted to do myself, in a 
similar vein, but the entire thing is white, surface embroidery and 
pulled- and drawn-thread work.  mmmmmm......
--sue, going back to working on her first knitted shawl....

Five Rivers wrote:

>     I've finished the last of the series of four wall embroideries I
> designed. Water can be found at:
> http://www.5rivers.org/en-gb/dept_33.html
> 
>     Now, to design myself a modern, female version of an early 18th century
> waistcoat. I have some cream wool/silk twill, an embroidery pattern from the
> wedding garments of The Dauphin in 1754, and very itchy fingers. :-)
> 

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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Henry VIII era garment books (was: More book news)
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 18:15:08 -0800
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Heh, Heh, Heh!  I got Robin's copy of the Inventory I and I love it.  I wish
the publishers of the second volume would have the smarts to put out the
fact that they are doing it and take reservations for copies.  That way they
would have a decent idea of who wants it.  At this point I would simply
start putting my Pizza money away for when it finally comes out (I've given
up Pizza for Atkins :-)

You can still get the Inventories new at David Brown, or (Oxbow books for
the Brits amongst us) for $148 plus shipping.

http://www.oxbowbooks.com/results.cfm/q/Henry%20VIII/qt/All/ST/QS/StartRow/1

They also have Woven into the Earth for $50, but I got mine for $37 because
I pre-ordered.

If you do go to the Inventories page for David Brown, be prepared to drool.
Lots of nice ways to spend money on Tudor era books.

Viscountess Regina Romsey
OL, OP, Drachenwald/East Now a Proud Resident of AnTir and the Pacific
NorthWet

"BTW...they make us wear coronets so that we don't hit our heads on
things. As often."
  Duke Dag
>

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] More book news
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 23:52:18 -0500
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On Thursday 16 December 2004 11:16 am, Robin Netherton wrote:
> On Thu, 16 Dec 2004, Sue Clemenger wrote:
[snip]
> > "Encountering Medieval Textiles and Dress: Objects, Texts, Images" by
> > Desiree G. Koslin.
>
> This is has been out for several years now. Page is here:
>
> http://www.palgrave-usa.com/Catalog/product.aspx?isbn=0312293771
>
> It's another essay collection, again with a heavy emphasis on lit crit and
> art history. I saw most of these papers at K'zoo when first presented. The
> book will have some useful bits for people doing work in certain areas
> but, again, mostly focuses on the theoretical rather than practical issues
> of costume.
>
> A word of warning: Often the people who do serious and well-respected work
> on dress/textile topics in literature, art history, and social history are
> not familiar with current work and practical issues of clothing and
> textiles. Costumers may be surprised and disconcerted when they stumble
> across outdated or incorrect statements about what was worn and how it was
> made. This reflects the severe contamination of the existing literature on
> costume history with decades-old unsupported assumptions. That doesn't
> mean that the rhetorical analyses are not valid; it does limit the
> usefulness of the work to the practical costume researcher. Still, you can
> often get a lot of good primary source references (quotes from documents
> and literature, for instance) even from a paper that has no bearing on
> practical aspects.

Thanks for the comments.  I have been considering whether to buy this book for 
a few years now.  You've helped me make my decision.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: magician clothing?
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>From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
>I don't think there were any actual magicians or wizards in the "high
>Middle Ages", altho I seem to recall that people were burned at the stake
>because of this assumption.

Based on the extant grimoires from the middle ages (There are a few, such as 
the Picatrix, the Thesaurus Necromatiae (ascribed to Roger Bacon), and the 
Munich handbook). I would have to say there -were- ritual magicians in the 
period.  There _were_ a number of people tried for sorcery,  necromancy, and 
such.  Many were acquitted, others fined, banished, and yes, some were 
burned for heresy.  I'm not seeing a lot on ritual garments though, so the 
assumption that they dressed like everyone else is most probable.

Marc


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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 21:17:15 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: magician clothing?
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>>I don't think there were any actual magicians or wizards in the "high
>>Middle Ages", altho I seem to recall that people were burned at the stake
>>because of this assumption.
>
>Based on the extant grimoires from the middle ages (There are a few, such 
>as the Picatrix, the Thesaurus Necromatiae (ascribed to Roger Bacon), and 
>the Munich handbook). I would have to say there -were- ritual magicians in 
>the period.  There _were_ a number of people tried for 
>sorcery,  necromancy, and such.  Many were acquitted, others fined, 
>banished, and yes, some were burned for heresy.  I'm not seeing a lot on 
>ritual garments though, so the assumption that they dressed like everyone 
>else is most probable.

With the threat of burning a possibility, I should think they'd dress 
exactly like everyone else, except at ritual events.  But I don't think 
history has recorded what their ritual garb was, nor do I think that was 
the original question.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 00:33:30 -0500
Subject: Re: [h-cost] FINALLY/book news
From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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> According to the publisher, as of about a week and a half ago, the copies for
> America are on a boat in the middle of the Atlantic.  (So maybe by now they're
> at the publishers or sitting on a dock in New Jersey...)  They were not
> expected to be to booksellers in time for Christmas sales.
> 
> Janet

But I want it NOW! 

My local independent bookseller special ordered _Woven Into The Earth_ and
_Dress in Anglo-Saxon England_ for me on Tuesday night and _Woven_ is here
already, waiting for me to pick it up tomorrow on the way home from work.
Their computer was giving them funny mixed signals about where _Dress_ was,
but they seemed to think it had reached US warehouse. We shall see. Anyway I
guess I can't eat TWO whole books this weekend anyway. Sigh.

Lauren

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Henry VIII era garment books (was: More book news)
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On Thursday 16 December 2004 9:15 pm, Wanda Pease wrote:
[snip]
> They also have Woven into the Earth for $50, but I got mine for $37 because
> I pre-ordered.

I should have done that, but I thought I could resist until I saw an actual 
copy....  :-)

I *did* preorder Dress in Anglo-Saxon England from Amazon.  They are selling 
it at something like $32 USD.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fixing a regency costume
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> > Hello to all the Regency experts out there (and everybody else) I
> > have a dress which I made from Simplicity's Ever After pattern
> > (8735).... but I don't want to wear it  for SCA
> > purposes anymore..... I thought I might be able to convert it
> > into something passably regencyesque for another group I'm
> > involved with where polyester satin wouldn't stick out like a sore
> > thumb. So far I know I've got to re-pleat the skirt to concentrate
the 
> > pleats at the back leaving the front flat, but what should I do
about
> > the bodice. I could extend the dart to create a faux princess seam
> > pointing to either the corner of the neckline or the arm seam or
just > > leave the dart as it  is. 

Leave the darts as they are 

> > Does anybody have any suggestions...... I
> > know it's not ideal for the purpose but I don't
> > want to throw out this dress and this is the only way I think I'll 
> > ever wear it again. Elizabeth


> But there is a lot of yardage in the skirt..I don't think 
> that the bodice or sleeve could successfully make the 
> transition. Kathleen

The sleeves might (depending which style/version was used)  There's a
regency era portrait in (I think) the National Gallery in London that
shows a girl in a red velvet dress with pseudo-renaissance looking
sleeves, so that's an indication that the renaissance styles inspired
details on Regency period dresses.

As tio the bodice - also depends on the version/style uses but the
*main* problem is that upturned V of the bottom edge at the centre front
of the bodice - not very Regency at all.

Though for a group who aren't sticklers for absolute accuracy, perhaps
uit could be disguised... a fake-belt piece sewn around the bottom edge
of the bodice perhaps... that widens into a diamond shape at the front
so that ththe top edge of the diamond buts to the bottom edge of the
inverted V... or possible just a straight edge to the bottom of the
belt-piece with just the top edge butting up to the inverted V on the
bodice.

If you have any offcuts of the original fabric, you could use for the
fake belt-piece that would be even better....

So, Elizabeth, what version of the sleeves and bodice did you use?

Teddy
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From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fixing a regency costume
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Re: [h-cost] fixing a regency costume
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <001001c4e3c0$5b58f8c0$8a92d6cb@ewalpole>
> Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Friday, December 17, 2004 2:41 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] fixing a regency costume
> 
> 

> I made the one with the U shaped neckline (I think it's view 
> B but it's not labelled on the picture) If you look at the 
> picture here http://snipurl.com/bf69 
> the I made the bodice from the one on the bottom right and 
> the sleeves from the one on the left. You can see the dress 
> in it's current incarnation at 
> http://www.gbacg.org/Patterns/simplicity.htm It's the second 
> review from the top and the photo is thoroughly unflattering. 
> I don't have any scraps and I doubt I could get any more of 
> this fabric as I bought it about 4-5 years ago.

OK, Alter the skirts as you'd already described

Take out the sleeves and use the fabric form the oversleevers to cut two
short puffed regecny-dtyle sleevers and to make a belt piece to deal
with the inverted "V" at the bottom of the bodice front.

That should work fine.  Not completely Regency accurate, but not
screamingly awful either.

If you want long sleeves - make yourself a spencer  (short jacket not
much longer in the body than the dress bodice) and wear it over the
gown.

Hope this helps

Teddy
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From: "Chiara" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] new glove group
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St. Anne is the patron Saint of glovers. This group is a moderated group, 
not limited to leatherworking; all glove crafters are welcome. It is my hope 
that the group can become a useful resource for those who wish to make good 
gloves, whatever style or type of glove you wish to make.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/societyofstanne/

It is not run by me but by Gina Worthy.

Please forward to any list or persons that are interested in this.

(`'·.¸(`'·.¸(`'·.¸¸.·'´)¸.· '´)¸.·'´)
«·.·*¨`·¤   Chiara  ¤·´¨*·.·»
(¸.·'´(¸.·'´(¸.·'´`'·.¸)`'· .¸)`'·.¸) 

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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 11:24:28 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] new glove group
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>St. Anne is the patron Saint of glovers. This group is a moderated group,
>not limited to leatherworking; all glove crafters are welcome. It is my hope
>that the group can become a useful resource for those who wish to make good
>gloves, whatever style or type of glove you wish to make.

I have wide hands, so I figured out how to make gloves some time ago.  I'm 
always interested in chatting about gloves, and could probably use a lesson 
or two on "the right way" to make them.  I'm especially interested in the 
changing shape of the thumb piece where it attaches to the hand.  I hate 
fitchets.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
             ////-@@\\\
            ((((   7 )))
             (((  <> ))))
                )   ((((((
           /----\   /---\))

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] fixing a regency costume
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> As tio the bodice - also depends on the version/style uses but the
> *main* problem is that upturned V of the bottom edge at the 
> centre front
> of the bodice - not very Regency at all.

Actually, if you look at the Kyoto _Fashion_ book there are 2 ~1795 dresses with upturned Vs for the bodice front. They do not, however have the low round neck, and to copy that style well, you'd probably need to leave the front of the skirt gathered as it is and add a panel to the back for extra fullness. But there are some Empire examples of the upturned V "waist" seam.

I must say, I like the idea of the shirt underneath -- you could even get gold tassel trim and do a version of the Princess Charlotte's turquoise day-dress (shown in _In Royal Fashion_ by Kay Staniland). There's even the "fantasy" version of that dress with a lace "thing" under it that could probably pass as a reasonable thing for you to wear to a regency ball. (Not that it would've been worn in period as such, but Staniland makes a believable argument that the lace "thing" Charlotte was wearing under the extant turquoise dress in one of her portraits never existed in the first place.  But you would have a painting to point to as documentation!)
	
	Good luck!
		-sunny

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> As tio the bodice - also depends on the version/style uses but the
> *main* problem is that upturned V of the bottom edge at the 
> centre front
> of the bodice - not very Regency at all.

Actually, if you look at the Kyoto _Fashion_ book there are 2 ~1795 dresses with upturned Vs for the bodice front. They do not, however have the low round neck, and to copy that style well, you'd probably need to leave the front of the skirt gathered as it is and add a panel to the back for extra fullness. But there are some Empire examples of the upturned V "waist" seam.

I must say, I like the idea of the shirt underneath -- you could even get gold tassel trim and do a version of the Princess Charlotte's turquoise day-dress (shown in _In Royal Fashion_ by Kay Staniland). There's even the "fantasy" version of that dress with a lace "thing" under it that could probably pass as a reasonable thing for you to wear to a regency ball. (Not that it would've been worn in period as such, but Staniland makes a believable argument that the lace "thing" Charlotte was wearing under the extant turquoise dress in one of her portraits never existed in the first place.  But you would have a painting to point to as documentation!)
	
	Good luck!
		-sunny

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Cc: societyofstanne@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [h-cost] Regarding thumbs was new glove group
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This is a quote from a new glove master that I have found recently, or 
rather, who found me! :)

He is going to help me with my research on many things, one of which is the 
glove. Now I have to find a copy of the patent and a picture of this hawking 
glove as well as the 6 finger glove that was mentioned earlier ...

Regarding thumbs.

The first known Bolton thumb actually predates its nineteenth century 
patent..this is the thumb you see on a lot of modern gloves where the quirk 
is part of the palm of the glove . the first one is a hawking glove 
allegedly for Henry the Eighth(most likely it was for King James). The 
French thumb as we know it today appeared not long after the 1100's when the 
side-thumb was abandoned. Originally the gouche was a simple circle, later 
quirks were added and by the time of the Renn. period an inverted v or m 
shape was included  as you have seen. Fundamentally your thumb ! is measured 
as one half of your trank width and measures(from the base of the thumb) up 
to the base of the second finger joint or simply from the base of the thumb 
to one third of the fore-finger. The old thumb-gouche began from a line 
extending down from between the ring and middle fingers and extended round 
the hand to one half of the back fore-finger (although some extended out to 
the line between the back forefinger and the middle finger. Renn and Med. 
gloves often did not have wider little finger/forefinger to accommodate fit 
so they used quirks and wider fourchettes than used since Jouvin. Some 
French thumbs have the quirk near the base of the thumb some have the quirk 
dead center of the gouche and some have the quirk off to one side or 
another.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, December 17, 2004 1:24 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] new glove group


:
: >St. Anne is the patron Saint of glovers. This group is a moderated group,
: >not limited to leatherworking; all glove crafters are welcome. It is my 
hope
: >that the group can become a useful resource for those who wish to make 
good
: >gloves, whatever style or type of glove you wish to make.
:
: I have wide hands, so I figured out how to make gloves some time ago.  I'm
: always interested in chatting about gloves, and could probably use a 
lesson
: or two on "the right way" to make them.  I'm especially interested in the
: changing shape of the thumb piece where it attaches to the hand.  I hate
: fitchets.
:
:
:        CarolynKayta Barrows
: dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
:          www.FunStuft.com
:
:              //// \\\
:             ////-@@\\\
:            ((((   7 )))
:             (((  <> ))))
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:           /----\   /---\))
:
: _______________________________________________
: h-costume mailing list
: h-costume@mail.indra.com
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Regarding thumbs was new glove group
In-Reply-To: <028501c4e47f$f4452c10$6d00a8c0@ches>
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>Regarding thumbs.

Wow.  And thanks.

I don't know what historical periods you do, but there is an illustration 
of a glove pattern from the Diderot Encyclopedia, mid-1700s, in Davenport's 
costume book.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: magician clothing?
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>From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
> >Based on the extant grimoires from the middle ages (There are a few, such
> >as the Picatrix, the Thesaurus Necromatiae (ascribed to Roger Bacon), and
> >the Munich handbook). I would have to say there -were- ritual magicians 
>in
> >the period.  There _were_ a number of people tried for
> >sorcery,  necromancy, and such.  Many were acquitted, others fined,
> >banished, and yes, some were burned for heresy.  I'm not seeing a lot on
> >ritual garments though, so the assumption that they dressed like everyone
> >else is most probable.
>With the threat of burning a possibility, I should think they'd dress
>exactly like everyone else, except at ritual events.  But I don't think
>history has recorded what their ritual garb was, nor do I think that was
>the original question.

It's an interpretive thing - "what did medieval magicians" wear?" (or 
whatever) could refer to any number of things.  I'm taking it to mean 
whether they had distinctive clothing at all, not simply what did they wear 
day to day.  Ritual clothing would fall into that catagory.

Some ritual garments -are- described in some cases, but (for example, in the 
Papyri graecae magicae there are descriptions of specific garments for for 
specific workings).  On the non-specific ritual clothing side, in the Norse 
Sagas on the other hand, there is at least one description of a Greenlander 
"witch" who's wearing pretty destinctive clothing.

As I was trying to emphasize earlier, burning really wasn't the only 
punishment for sorcery (and really was only popular in specific places and 
times.  It's like saying that someone could be blacklisted in the 20th 
century for being a communist.  Technically it's true, but it's sort of a 
misleadingly broad statement.

Marc


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: magician clothing?
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Not that I'm trying to flog another book or anything, but there is a recent addition to the British Library series "Medieval Life in Manuscripts" called Magic in Medieval Manuscripts.  I haven't seen it yet but I ordered it from their US distributor just a couple days ago.  It has 50 color illustration that include "from representations of the magician, wise-woman and witch, to charms against lightning, wax images for inciting love, and diagrams to find treasure."

Janet

Janet Davis
Castle Furnishings
www.medievalbookstore.com
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References: <8AFF1656DE4AB348973023624E8F4019792601@MDX-CLX-DC1.uni.mdx.ac.uk><4.3.1.2.20041217112217.02456de0@mail.frys.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Regarding thumbs was new glove group
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 18:35:39 -0600
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Hehe, yep, got it and about 50 other glove related books, not to mention 
about 75 commercial patterns through the decades. Been making gloves since I 
was in kindergarten. ;)

And I want MORE!!!!

Chiara

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, December 17, 2004 3:42 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Regarding thumbs was new glove group


:
: >Regarding thumbs.
:
: Wow.  And thanks.
:
: I don't know what historical periods you do, but there is an illustration
: of a glove pattern from the Diderot Encyclopedia, mid-1700s, in 
Davenport's
: costume book.
:
:
:        CarolynKayta Barrows
: dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
:          www.FunStuft.com
:
:              //// \\\
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:
: _______________________________________________
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: h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> Heh, Heh, Heh!  I got Robin's copy of the Inventory I and I love it. 
> I wish the publishers of the second volume would have the smarts to
> put out the fact that they are doing it and take reservations for
> copies.  That way they would have a decent idea of who wants it.  At
> this point I would simply start putting my Pizza money away for when
> it finally comes out (I've given up Pizza for Atkins :-)

I got it when it first came out. And I had it on preorder as well. It 
was cancelled despite the preorders.

And it doesn't help that one of their major contributors for the 
second volume (which was going to have an extensive section on 
costuming and textiles, which make up the majority of the listings) 
died. (That was Janet Arnold.) That and the main editor (David 
Starkey) got busy on other Tudor projects.

When you read Mr. Starkey's intro explaining the project, it sounds 
like it was an uphill battle to get the transcripts out. The 
publisher they started with was not their first. 

I got the feeling that the publishers were very disappointed by the 
sales of the first volume. (The first volume was the transcript of 
the actual inventories. The next two were going to be "Commentaries 
and Illustrations".)

I'm still hoping that the others will come out. But I'm glad they at 
least got the transcript portion done.

Kat
<kat@redtrollforge.com>


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Henry VIII era garment books (was: More book news)
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On Sat, 18 Dec 2004 kat@redtrollforge.com wrote:

> And it doesn't help that one of their major contributors for the
> second volume (which was going to have an extensive section on
> costuming and textiles, which make up the majority of the listings)  
> died. (That was Janet Arnold.) That and the main editor (David
> Starkey) got busy on other Tudor projects.
> ...
> I got the feeling that the publishers were very disappointed by the 
> sales of the first volume. (The first volume was the transcript of 
> the actual inventories. The next two were going to be "Commentaries 
> and Illustrations".)
> 
> I'm still hoping that the others will come out. But I'm glad they at 
> least got the transcript portion done.

The contributor I got my information from indicated that Vol. 2 had been
shelved, but has now been revived. This person is working on a category of
costume accessories; I do not know who, if anyone, has been tapped to fill
Janet Arnold's place in analyzing the garments. I also don't know if the
editor and publisher remain the same. If I have occasion to ask, I will,
but I'm not in a position to do so now.

--Robin



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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 13:49:36 2004
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Oh, yum yum yum. Fetched my copy home last night, and cannot read the poor
thing FAST enough, cannot absorb the pictures fast enough, etc. etc. After
suffering through mostly bad second-hand accounts of Norlund's accounts and
longing longing longing for more info on the Greenland finds for, golly,
decades I think -- I can't remember when I hadn't seen Norlund's map of one
of the gowns -- it is SO MUCH FUN to have pictures and thread counts and
analysis of the colors and weaves and did I mention PICTURES?????

I love that so many of the wool textiles are as coarse as 30 or 40 epi --
because I can weave 30 or 40 epi! So I can get ever closer to more authentic
textiles. Tra-loo tra-lay! Alas, not yet on the warp-weighted loom but this
shall come. And all the sewing and construction details! Oh this is fun.

Well worth keeping the heat at 55 for most of the month as an economy!
Giddily,
Lauren

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My copy just arrived in yesterday's mail.  It's lovely!
Joan

At 01:48 PM 12/18/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Oh, yum yum yum. Fetched my copy home last night, and cannot read the poor
>thing FAST enough, cannot absorb the pictures fast enough, etc. etc. After
>suffering through mostly bad second-hand accounts of Norlund's accounts and
>longing longing longing for more info on the Greenland finds for, golly,
>decades I think -- I can't remember when I hadn't seen Norlund's map of one
>of the gowns -- it is SO MUCH FUN to have pictures and thread counts and
>analysis of the colors and weaves and did I mention PICTURES?????
>
>I love that so many of the wool textiles are as coarse as 30 or 40 epi --
>because I can weave 30 or 40 epi! So I can get ever closer to more authentic
>textiles. Tra-loo tra-lay! Alas, not yet on the warp-weighted loom but this
>shall come. And all the sewing and construction details! Oh this is fun.
>
>Well worth keeping the heat at 55 for most of the month as an economy!
>Giddily,
>Lauren

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If she is talking about a Stage Magician, there are a number of 
illustrations about.  But they tended to Dress like their audiences just 
a little more colorful.  Parti-colored was also very popular as far as I 
remember.  There are a number of books on the history of stage magic 
avalible.

Stephen

ailith wrote:

>Hey, y'all.
>
>I've gotten a query from a friend regarding appropriate clothing for a
>magician during the "high Middle Ages".  Does anyone have any ideas of
>even where to begin looking--any references, etc? I'm pretty much at a
>loss--this is way out of my area of interest.
>
>Any help would be greatly appreciated!
>
>With regards,
>ailith/kate
>
>Should we complain that there are thorns on the rose bush or should we
>rejoice that the thorn bush has roses?
>
>~ unknown
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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>  
>

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Forgive the multiple postings, but I had to share this!  Merchant of Venice is coing out and it looks wonderful!!  I've included a link that has a synopsis for those who are not familiar with the storyline.  

http://www.sonyclassics.com/comingsoon.php?filmid=91&page=1

On a side note, the costumes look awesome!
--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares
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Subject: [h-cost] Bainbridge Island, WA- Linen! fabric store closing sale!
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For anyone who's looking for a good sale....like everyone?

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

> 
> Just a note about great fabric deals to be had: 
> 
> Island Textiles on Bainbridge Island is closing at the end of December. 
> They have a whole bunch of nice linen, silks, and velvets 30% off; wool 
and 
> home dec. fabrics 60% off, fabulous trims, buttons, ribbons and trims 50% 
> off. If you're in the market for any of these it may indeed be worth the 
> ferry ride. 
> 
> They are in the shopping area downhill from Safeway, the second stoplight 
up 
> from the ferry. 
> 
> Island Textiles 
> Fabrics and home decorating 
> (206) 789-8206 
> 937 Hildebrand Lane NE 
> Bainbridge Island,WA 98110 
> 
> They really are closing, so time is of the essence. Happy hunting! 
> 
> In service, 
> 
> Isadara 
> 
> 
> "It goes without saying that the pea cluster is wired directly to the 
> weapons array." 
> http://www.lileks.com/institute/gallery/knudsen2/9.html 
> 
> 
> 
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20041216.152109.20029.261329@webmail05.nyc.untd.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fixing a regency costume (replies to several)
Date: Sun, 19 Dec 2004 13:22:50 +1100
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Karen wrote:
> Based on the photo, I'd definitely repleat the skirt and discard the
current sleeves. I'd make myself a little mannish shirt to go underneath it,
worn in jumper fashion (American jumper/dress) and whip up a cute little
Spencer jacket of a coordinating material to wear over it. Trim a little
bonnet to match and call it good.
> Karen

Here in Australia Jumper means the same as sweater does in America, but I've
never heard of the American definition of jumper, but, So far as I
understand
it, you're suggesting a shirt worn underneath the dress. Though wouldn't a
chemise with a high neckline do the same thing (unless high necked smocks
are wrong for this era) without adding extra layers? (I would probably be
using this for summer wear I already have acceptable winter wear, as this
group covers the 16th to 19th centuries), what sort of collar does it have?
I've seen one or two (in movies) filling in a low neckline, they had a
simple ruffle on top of a ~1 inch wide band, are there alternatives?
Actually I think I remember something called a chemisette? in Patterns of
Fashion (she has a selection from the first half of the 19th century) which
ties under the arms and fills in the low neckline of the smock (to protect
high necklines from sweat & body oils or to fill a low neckline)
As for the spencer and the bonnet this is ballroom wear (I'll be wearing it
for a dance group) so I would not be wearing a bonnet, and a Spencer would
also be outdoor wear (unless I'm misremembering the Regency websites I've
read) a Spencer would also be too warm for summertime.

Ann Wass wrote:
> Satin isn't very common in the early 19th century, either.  And unless
this
> is a strictly costume event you are planning to wear it to, polyester
satin
> kind of shouts its presence, I think.  (I shouldn't talk, though.  As  I
> confessed on this list a while ago, I once made a very sketchy impression
of  an
> 18th century ballgown in KNITTED poly satin, with zipper no less.   OUCH!)
>
> It is probably a LOT more work than you want to do, but you COULD make a
> whole sheer white overdress of a filmy cotton <snip>
> Ann Wass

I really don't think I'll be out of place, many people don't wear historic
costume and a lot of people wear purchased (modern) formal gowns as
costumes.
As to the sheer overlay another layer does not sound good though I suppose
it wouldn't make a huge impact, a friend showed me her attempt at making
such a dress (all as one piece not two separate dresses) but found that the
seams showed through the sheer fabric, is there a solution to that? (other
than possibly using very small seam allowances or putting all the seams on
the inside instead of between the two layers)

Oh, and finally can anybody recommend the best (online) source for Regency
fashion plates? I've seen a few scattered about but often it's just a couple
per decade to indicate the general tendency for each period.
Thanks to all those who have offered suggestions (especially Teddy for the
belt and sleeves suggestion).
As to covering the darts, I seem to recall a dress in Patterns of Fashion 1
that had a separate square panel over the front (it was decorated with
diagonal lines but I can't remember how those diagonal lines were created)
as a concealed front fastening? (this was a borrowed copy so I don't really
remember the details and I don't have it with me). I could possibly take a
piece of fabric from the skirt or sleeves and  make a decorative centre
front panel, Does anybody else see possible problems with this idea or have
suggestions on how to construct it?
thanks,
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au

Mr. Speaker, I said the honourable member was a liar it is true and I am
sorry for it. The honourable member may place the punctuation where he
pleases.
Richard Brinsley Sheridan (1751-1816) British dramatist. On being asked to
apologise for calling a fellow MP a liar. Attrib.

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Thursday 19 December 1661

http://www.pepysdiary.com/archive/1661/12/19/index.php

This morning my wife dressed herself fine to go to the christening of 
Mrs. Hunt’s child, and so she and I in the way in the morning went to 
the Paynter’s, and there she sat till noon, and I all the while looking 
over great variety of good prints which he had, and by and by comes my 
boy to tell us that Mrs. Hunt has been at our house to tell us that the 
christening is not till Saturday next. So after the Paynter had done I 
did like the picture pretty well, and my wife and I went by coach home, 
but in the way I took occasion to fall out with my wife very highly 
about her ribbands being ill matched and of two colours, and to very 
high words, so that, like a passionate fool, I did call her whore, for 
which I was afterwards sorry. But I set her down at home, and went 
myself by appointment to the Dolphin, where Sir W. Warren did give us 
all a good dinner, and that being done, to the office, and there sat 
late, and so home.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

Over the next few days, Osama bin Laden will die of kidney disease. 
Saddam Hussein will be shot to death. Fidel Castro will die.  A live 
dinosaur thousands of years old will be captured. The Hoover Dam will 
collapse. And Rosie O'Donnell will adopt Siamese twin girls.  That's 
what the world's best psychics predicted for 2004.  -- CSICOP
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Subject: [h-cost] fixing a regency costume (replies to several)
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Elizabeth, the darts in the dress are just fine.  Regency period gowns can 
be found with darts,  The scoop neckline is fine as well.  Pretty for a 
ball would be a sheer kerchief (sometimes referred to as a "fichu") tucked 
in something like they wore in Sense and Sensibility.  Shortening the 
sleeves would be nice for a ball gown - elbow length or shorter, then wear 
long gloves.  The biggest thing with your gown in it's current state is the 
fullness of the skirt that has been mentioned.  The inverted "v" waistline 
is fine.  Take some of the fullness out of the skirt and pleat or gather 
fullness to the centre back, leaving the front of the skirt smooth and flat.

Here are some fashion 
plates:http://content-dev.lib.washington.edu/costumehistweb/index.html

And here is a picture of the kerchief 
idea:http://www.discoverkate.com/gallery/details.php?image_id=2385&sessionid=911a9vi6d0e91pjfhqiutkf1p6


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Greetings,

I have been behind on the list. It sounds like you might be referring to:

Tools for Textile Production from Birka and Hedeby by Eva Andersson, 
ISBN 9172092955.

I haven't had a chance to look at it yet, but it is on my wish list.

Julianne Pierson

>  
>
>>On Mon, 13 Dec 2004, Althea Turner wrote:
>>
>>    
>>
>>>I don't seem to have kept the postings about the Book on the Birka
>>>finds.  Does anyone have the citation?  I am trying to decide what
>>>Santa Clause is bringing.  I have been a very good girl!  :D
>>>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] fixing a regency costume (replies to several)
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Elizabeth Walpole wrote:

> 
> Oh, and finally can anybody recommend the best (online) source for Regency
> fashion plates? 


I've found these useful:


http://locutus.ucr.edu/~cathy/reg3.html

http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/timelinepages/1800to1825a.htm

http://dept.kent.edu/museum/costume/bonc/3timesearch/tsnineteenth/1800-1829/1800-1829.html



There used to a be a ton of Jane Austen societies out there with 
websites on the movies from a few years ago. You may find this webring 
useful: http://www.mimanet.com/cgi-bin/rings/regency/sitelist.html




Dawn

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] fixing a regency costume (replies to several)
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In a message dated 12/19/2004 7:17:37 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
ewalpole@austarmetro.com.au writes:

but  found that the
seams showed through the sheer fabric, is there a solution  to that? (other
than possibly using very small seam allowances or putting  all the seams on
the inside instead of between the two  layers)



That is just the nature of the beast--still the case today.  The seams  will 
show through, unless you flat-or underline instead of making separate  
dresses.  Some period examples have French seams, and that is the solution  I have 
used.  (However, as is often the case with period examples, people  didn't 
always seem to be as fussy, and some just have very narrow unfinished  seams.  Such 
very narrow seams, though, have a way of raveling totally  away. Of course, 
fabrics, at least for the skirt panels, were often used  edge-to-edge, so you 
just have the selveges for a finish.)
 
As you want to use this for a ballgown, though, I think the solution of  
putting in short sleeves and wearing some kind of fichu (or not), while re-doing  
the skirt, is your most practical option.
 
A "jumper" in the U.S., but the way, is a sleeveless, usually low-necked  
garment, made to be worn over a blouse.  They go in and out of  fashion.  What IS 
the British equivalent for this type of garment, as I  know "jumper" is a 
pullover sweater?
 
Ann Wass
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Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> AnnBWass@aol.com 20/12/2004 16:15:52 >>>

 
>A "jumper" in the U.S., but the way, is a sleeveless, usually
low-necked  
>garment, made to be worn over a blouse.  They go in and out of 
fashion.  What IS 
>the British equivalent for this type of garment, as I  know "jumper"
is a 
>pullover sweater?
 
A pinafore dress. 

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From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
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>
>
>As you want to use this for a ballgown, though, I think the solution of
>putting in short sleeves and wearing some kind of fichu (or not), while 
>re-doing
>the skirt, is your most practical option.
>
>A "jumper" in the U.S., but the way, is a sleeveless, usually low-necked
>garment, made to be worn over a blouse.  They go in and out 
>of  fashion.  What IS
>the British equivalent for this type of garment, as I  know "jumper" is a
>pullover sweater?

A garment such as you describe is what I have always called a "pinafore" 
dress, I suppose because it looks a bit like an old fashioned pinafore or 
apron. It can have any shape of neck, and can be waisted or not, depending 
on the design.

Suzi in London



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Subject: [h-cost] Hardwick Textiles-is there a difference in these two books?
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Does anyone know if there is a difference between these two books?  They 
do have different ISBNs.  I have the Elizabethan Treasures version....

http://tinyurl.com/5nsct

Sg

>
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Subject: [h-cost] swansdown?
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Does anyone know where to find swansdown nowadays or about how much it costs.  All I have been able to find are powder puffs.  (I own a gorgeously soft, fluffy pink one)
Thank you
Alexia
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hardwick Textiles-is there a difference in these two
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They are the same book.  If you check the publishers, one is the American edition and one the British.

Janet

Janet Davis
Castle Furnishings
www.medievalbookstore.com
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Hardwick Textiles-is there a difference in these
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Thanks!  I knew someone here would know the answer!

>-----Original Message-----
>From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
>Behalf Of JAMES OGILVIE
>Sent: Monday, December 20, 2004 2:39 PM
>To: Historical Costume
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hardwick Textiles-is there a difference in these
twobooks?
>
>They are the same book.  If you check the publishers, one is the American
edition
>and one the British.
>
>Janet
>
>Janet Davis
>Castle Furnishings
>www.medievalbookstore.com
>_______________________________________________
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: magician clothing?
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2004 23:23:31 -0500
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On Friday 17 December 2004 4:19 pm, Marc Carlson wrote:
[snip]
> It's an interpretive thing - "what did medieval magicians" wear?" (or
> whatever) could refer to any number of things.  I'm taking it to mean
> whether they had distinctive clothing at all, not simply what did they wear
> day to day.  Ritual clothing would fall into that catagory.

I suspect magicians would not wear any particular ritual clothing, either, 
except perhaps a medal, special belt, or other talisman with occult 
significance to them.

When I think of ritual magicians, I imagine them wearing the costume a Doctor 
of Philosophy, or perhaps Theology, would wear.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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>  I'd make myself a little mannish shirt to go 
> underneath it, worn in jumper fashion (American jumper/dress) 
> 
> Here in Australia Jumper means the same as sweater does in 
> America, but I've never heard of the American definition of 
> jumper, but, So far as I understand it, you're suggesting a 
> shirt worn underneath the dress. 

In england it would be a "pinafore" dress (sleeveless dress often worn
over a shirt/blouse)

> Though wouldn't a chemise 
> with a high neckline do the same thing (unless high necked 
> smocks are wrong for this era) without adding extra layers? 

Basically, yes.

> As for the spencer and the bonnet this is ballroom wear (I'll 
> be wearing it for a dance group) so I would not be wearing a 
> bonnet, and a Spencer would also be outdoor wear (unless I'm 
> misremembering the Regency websites I've
> read) a Spencer would also be too warm for summertime.

Depends what you made hte spencer from (and wouldn't it it would be nice
to have a spencer and bonnet wo don for arriving and leaving the
ball....<g>?)

Teddy
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Sorry for the cross posts.  Thought you all might be interested.  A special
thanks to Ninya Mikhaila for giving us the idea for the presentation.

 

http://www.saragrace.net/3E_10_QEW_Event_Pics.html

 

 

 

For any Phoenix locals, We have been asked to do two repeat performances
coupled with  <http://library.ci.scottsdale.az.us/elizabeth/events.htm>
Musica Dulce performances: 

 

Palomino Library . Sat / Jan 8 / 2 to 3 PM
Mustang Library . Sat / Feb 5 / 2 to 3:30 PM (Auditorium)

Please call the Library (see link above for number) to confirm times.

 

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Sorry for the cross posts.  Thought you all might be interested.  A special
thanks to Ninya Mikhaila for giving us the idea for the presentation.

 

http://www.saragrace.net/3E_10_QEW_Event_Pics.html

 

 

 

For any Phoenix locals, We have been asked to do two repeat performances
coupled with  <http://library.ci.scottsdale.az.us/elizabeth/events.htm>
Musica Dulce performances: 

 

Palomino Library . Sat / Jan 8 / 2 to 3 PM
Mustang Library . Sat / Feb 5 / 2 to 3:30 PM (Auditorium)

Please call the Library (see link above for number) to confirm times.

 

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From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
To: h costume <h-costume@indra.com>,
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Subject: [h-cost] Happy holidays to you all
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Status: RO

(I'm sorry for the cross-posting.) I'm hoping like crazy to not be here at
work for the next few days - when I can leave depends on how fast someone
else can get her work done on her deadline. I'm the one who has to make it
into pdfs and send it off after it's complete, so I can't leave till she
does. This is me jumping the gun:


I'd like to take this opportunity to wish you all the most joyful holiday
season ever. Today is Solstice for some; Christmas is imminent; the New Year
is around the corner. May you have great love and happiness of your
particular holiday.

Remember those you love in this time of endings and beginnings. Reconnect to
someone you've lost track of. Make a present for someone rather than buying
something. Time and attention are the most valuable things you have to give.
Take time to reflect. Hug someone. And someone else. Smile a lot.

May your needles be sharp and your light bright.

LynnD



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Its finally done!  A Suitable Gowne for Her Majesty
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Hi Saragrace,
I wondered what had happened with your projekt, but i didnt have to worry.
Whoww what a gown, congratulations with a great job done. I simply love it.
Fabulous. 
Thanks a lot for sharing...........

Bjarne

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Subject: [h-cost] RE: magician clothing?
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Status: RO

>From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
> > It's an interpretive thing - "what did medieval magicians" wear?" (or
> > whatever) could refer to any number of things.  I'm taking it to mean
> > whether they had distinctive clothing at all, not simply what did they 
>wear
> > day to day.  Ritual clothing would fall into that catagory.
>I suspect magicians would not wear any particular ritual clothing, either,
>except perhaps a medal, special belt, or other talisman with occult
>significance to them.
>When I think of ritual magicians, I imagine them wearing the costume a 
>Doctor
>of Philosophy, or perhaps Theology, would wear.

As I believe I said, normally they are likely to have worn regular clothing 
(personally, I'm not convinced if I were going to be handling smelling 
burning things, I'd be all that inclined to dress up, although I might have 
stuck to a specific set of "work clothes" :)  ).  However, what I believe I 
was saying is that for specific workings there -may well- have been specific 
garments required, i.e. ritual clothes.  I have not gone through all extant 
and no longer extant medieval grimoires so I can't tell you that they 
weren't required.  I know the in both pre-medieval and post-medieval 
workings they are occasionally required.  For example, PGM I. the spell for 
aquiring an assistant requires the magician to wear a "pure garment", 
although what a "pure garment" might be is open to interpretation.  PGM III, 
for the rite of foreknowledge the magician must (among other weird and 
bothersome things) be wearing "clean [white] garments" and be crowned in 
laurel leaves.

Any occult talismans they might or might not be wearing would more likely be 
of relevance to the working than to themselves.

Marc


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] fixing a regency costume (replies to several)
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In case it helps here's the lace "thing" I was talking about that might work for a ball (along with a pinafore dress). http://locutus.ucr.edu/~cathy/char/char4.html

shirt vs. high-necked chemise: I haven't seen an extant garment of either (uncovered). However, they are usually referred to as "shirts" in the literature. Whether that's an accurate 20th century description of the garment or the use of a period term for something we would call a shift or chemise I don't know. I do know that there are extant "shirts" from this period -- they just don't get photographed alone. Nancy Bradfield's _Costume in Detail: 1730-1930_ may have a definitive answer, but I don't have it to-hand at the moment.

Shirt collars: There are lots of different possibilities. Janet Arnold has 6 or so dickies with different collars, any of which could be used on a shirt. I can't seem to find a picture on line of the extant shirt Charlotte wore with the pinafore in the painting. The collar could be anything from a Peter Pan collar to a upstanding ruffles that frame the face/chin.

Re covering the darts: I would agree with an earlier poster that this is unnecessary. However, you remember correctly, Janet Arnold does have a bib-front dress with diagonal lines  on the "bib" (done with pleating, I think -- but I'm working from memory). The problem with using this method to cover the pleats is that it always covered a center front opening for the dress, and I thought the pattern you used originally had a center-back opening...?
	Good luck!
		-sunny
 

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In a message dated 12/21/2004 3:12:19 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
sunshine_buchler@agilent.com writes:

I do  know that there are extant "shirts" from this period -- they just don't 
get  photographed alone. 


If memory serves, there is a photo of a habit shirt in the Cunningtons'  
"History of Underclothes."
 
Ann Wass
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From: Ghislaine-SCA <sidoniaros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] magician clothing?
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I would be most interested in knowing the
illustrations and books titles that you are
referencing.  I am an ernest scholar of this very
subject and would welcome and leads for new resources.

Thank you.

Ghislaine


--- Stephen Bergdahl <madlystitching@earthlink.net>
wrote:

> If she is talking about a Stage Magician, there are
> a number of 
> illustrations about.  But they tended to Dress like
> their audiences just 
> a little more colorful.  Parti-colored was also very
> popular as far as I 
> remember.  There are a number of books on the
> history of stage magic 
> avalible.
> 
> Stephen
> 
> ailith wrote:
> 
> >Hey, y'all.
> >
> >I've gotten a query from a friend regarding
> appropriate clothing for a
> >magician during the "high Middle Ages".  Does
> anyone have any ideas of
> >even where to begin looking--any references, etc?
> I'm pretty much at a
> >loss--this is way out of my area of interest.
> >
> >Any help would be greatly appreciated!
> >
> >With regards,
> >ailith/kate
> >
> >Should we complain that there are thorns on the
> rose bush or should we
> >rejoice that the thorn bush has roses?
> >
> >~ unknown
> >
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >h-costume mailing list
> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >  
> >
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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The dress looks gorgeous! Wish I had 3 trusty tiring-maids to help me get dressed in my Elizabethans! Really a terrific job, I've forwarded it to the Guildemaster of the Guilde of St. George at Bristol to provide him with additional....ahem....inspiration on his next gown design for the Queen. 


Karen

-- "Wicked Frau" <wickedfrau@earthlink.net> wrote:
Sorry for the cross posts.  Thought you all might be interested.  A special
thanks to Ninya Mikhaila for giving us the idea for the presentation.

 

http://www.saragrace.net/3E_10_QEW_Event_Pics.html

 

 

 

For any Phoenix locals, We have been asked to do two repeat performances
coupled with  <http://library.ci.scottsdale.az.us/elizabeth/events.htm>
Musica Dulce performances: 

 

Palomino Library . Sat / Jan 8 / 2 to 3 PM
Mustang Library . Sat / Feb 5 / 2 to 3:30 PM (Auditorium)

Please call the Library (see link above for number) to confirm times.

 

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On Tuesday 21 December 2004 2:58 pm, Marc Carlson wrote:
> >From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
> >
> > > It's an interpretive thing - "what did medieval magicians" wear?" (or
> > > whatever) could refer to any number of things.  I'm taking it to mean
> > > whether they had distinctive clothing at all, not simply what did they
> >
> >wear
> >
> > > day to day.  Ritual clothing would fall into that catagory.
> >
> >I suspect magicians would not wear any particular ritual clothing, either,
> >except perhaps a medal, special belt, or other talisman with occult
> >significance to them.
> >When I think of ritual magicians, I imagine them wearing the costume a
> >Doctor
> >of Philosophy, or perhaps Theology, would wear.
>
> As I believe I said, normally they are likely to have worn regular clothing
> (personally, I'm not convinced if I were going to be handling smelling
> burning things, I'd be all that inclined to dress up, although I might have
> stuck to a specific set of "work clothes" :)  ). 

[rest snipped]

Yes, and I'm agreeing with you.  I commented only to provide more of a mental 
picture for people whose primary clothing is not the medieval period.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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From: Teddy <Teddy@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Its finally done!  A Suitable Gowne for Her Majesty
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> Sorry for the cross posts.  Thought you all might be 
> interested.  A special
> thanks to Ninya Mikhaila for giving us the idea for the presentation.
> 
>  
> 
> http://www.saragrace.net/3E_10_QEW_Event_Pics.html

Bravo

I've been following the progress with interest - gald it all worked so well!

Teddy
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Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2004 13:07:26 -0500
Subject: Wig? was Re: [h-cost] Its finally done!  A Suitable Gowne for Her
	Majesty
From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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The gown is breathtaking! But I must also ask: who did the wig and/or how
was it done? I have been looking at modern wigs to style in various 18th and
11th century ways (my hair is growing but never fast enough!) and I don't
find the wigs up-sweep all that well -- they seem to be specifically
designed for the hair to hang down, and when it goes up the underlying net
shows. Am I just looking at inferior wigs? Or, like, is there an historical
wig-stylers list I should be reading?
Thanks,
Lauren

> From: "Wicked Frau" <wickedfrau@earthlink.net>
 
> http://www.saragrace.net/3E_10_QEW_Event_Pics.html

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Dec 22 15:31:05 2004
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From: "Wicked Frau" <wickedfrau@earthlink.net>
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Subject: RE: Wig? was Re: [h-cost] Its finally done! A Suitable Gowne for
	HerMajesty
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Status: RO

Hi Laura-I think you can get all the info you need on the wig here:

http://www.heatherspages.net/elizabeth%201/eliza%20hair.htm

Towards the bottom you will see that it was tailor made for us.  Heather can
explain it better because she worked with the lady.  I think it is three
hair pieces with  half ''doughnuts'' used to sweep the hair over.

Sg

>-----Original Message-----
>From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
>Behalf Of Lauren Walker
>Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 2004 11:07 AM
>To: Historical Costume
>Subject: Wig? was Re: [h-cost] Its finally done! A Suitable Gowne for
HerMajesty
>
>The gown is breathtaking! But I must also ask: who did the wig and/or how
>was it done? I have been looking at modern wigs to style in various 18th
and
>11th century ways (my hair is growing but never fast enough!) and I don't
>find the wigs up-sweep all that well -- they seem to be specifically
>designed for the hair to hang down, and when it goes up the underlying net
>shows. Am I just looking at inferior wigs? Or, like, is there an historical
>wig-stylers list I should be reading?
>Thanks,
>Lauren
>
>> From: "Wicked Frau" <wickedfrau@earthlink.net>
>
>> http://www.saragrace.net/3E_10_QEW_Event_Pics.html
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From: Aline Swynbrook <alineswynbrook@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Looking for resources and patterns...
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I am currently gettting ready to improve my wardrobe
for one of the areas I do historical
reenactment/recreation, and possibly undertake a new
area, and I would love recommendations of good
resources and patterns for both.

1) I currently am working on fine-tuning an impression
of a mid-15th century English woman, unmarried
merchant's daughter, probably living in either London
or Canterbury.  I have had both kirtles and
houplande's suggested to me.  I would love
suggestions.

2) My current boyfriend also does World War II
reenactment, portraying a British infantry soldier.  I
would like to work on putting together a good
impression of a young English girl (early 20's) either
in one of the government nursing services or as a
civillian (or both...).  Again, any suggestions would
be wonderfully appreciated.

Thank You very much,
Aline 


		
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Anyone want to buy a fabric store?
 
Kathleen Norvell
 
 

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Wow!
This is really impressive!
It is so complete with all the accessories and even beautifull shoes!

Who made those beautiful jewels with the stones and pearls in them?

Deredere


Wicked Frau wrote:

>Hi Laura-I think you can get all the info you need on the wig here:
>
>http://www.heatherspages.net/elizabeth%201/eliza%20hair.htm
>
>Towards the bottom you will see that it was tailor made for us.  Heather can
>explain it better because she worked with the lady.  I think it is three
>hair pieces with  half ''doughnuts'' used to sweep the hair over.
>
>Sg
>  
>
>  
>

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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Forehead cloth, was Re: [h-cost] Its finally done! A Suitable
	Gowne for HerMajesty
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I was interested by the small size of the forehead cloth shown on the
Accessories page. I wear one with my 17th century coif to hide my thick
fringe (bangs), but I make them big enough to tie the corners at the
back. My linen one makes rather a bulky knot. Perhaps I should try a
smaller one with tapes at the corners.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> triade@kabelfoon.nl 23/12/2004 09:35:49 >>>
Wow!
This is really impressive!
It is so complete with all the accessories and even beautifull shoes!

Who made those beautiful jewels with the stones and pearls in them?

Deredere


Wicked Frau wrote:

>Hi Laura-I think you can get all the info you need on the wig here:
>
>http://www.heatherspages.net/elizabeth%201/eliza%20hair.htm 
>
>Towards the bottom you will see that it was tailor made for us. 
Heather can
>explain it better because she worked with the lady.  I think it is
three
>hair pieces with  half ''doughnuts'' used to sweep the hair over.
>
>Sg
>  
>
>  
>

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That was the Queen herself! (Heather Heroldt) Aren't they wonderful?  I
showed her the ones you had done and she went from there!

http://www.heatherspages.net/elizabeth%201/eliza%20access.htm


Sg

>Who made those beautiful jewels with the stones and pearls in them?
>
>Deredere

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Whoops, no attachments are allowed I think, and nothing in the body??

Sg

>-----Original Message-----
>From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
>Behalf Of Appin1@aol.com
>Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 2004 11:25 PM
>To: tuesdaynitecostumers@yahoogroups.com; h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] Fwd: Fabric Warehouse Frequent Shoppers - We need
yourhelp!
>
>Anyone want to buy a fabric store?
>
>Kathleen Norvell
>
>

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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Forehead cloth, was A Suitable Gowne for HerMajesty
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Ah yes, making this gown and all the accessories was very educational to us.
This was one of the those things that we looked at extant pieces and thought
to ourselves, "man those look too small".  But we went with it and it worked
perfectly.  I don't think Heather used any ties, pins etc.  It just sits
there and is held in place by the coif.

Here is where we looked at extant pieces:
http://costume.dm.net/headwear/coifpics.html
About the middle of the page there is one with the forehead cloth on
top....(it also says that they were stitched to the coif-errr I don't think
so.)


Sg






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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] RE: Forehead cloth, was A Suitable Gowne for
	HerMajesty
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It wouldn't "just sit" on me; my hair is thick and strong and needs to
be tied down! I'd misinterpreted the photo and thought I saw a tape
there.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>> wickedfrau@earthlink.net 23/12/2004 14:58:12 >>>
Ah yes, making this gown and all the accessories was very educational
to us.
This was one of the those things that we looked at extant pieces and
thought
to ourselves, "man those look too small".  But we went with it and it
worked
perfectly.  I don't think Heather used any ties, pins etc.  It just
sits
there and is held in place by the coif.

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From: "Wicked Frau" <wickedfrau@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE: Forehead cloth, was A Suitable Gowne forHerMajesty
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 2004 08:32:56 -0700
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Oh yes, Heather has a ton of hair too and either braids and sews it with a
ribbon or when she wears the wig wraps it firmly around her head in a flat
sort of way.  I think she might have some info on how she does her hair on
her website too.  


Sg

>It wouldn't "just sit" on me; my hair is thick and strong and needs to
>be tied down! I'd misinterpreted the photo and thought I saw a tape
>there.

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They look great!!
Much better than the ones I made myself!
I thought they were real metal.

Greetings,
       Deredere

Wicked Frau wrote:

>That was the Queen herself! (Heather Heroldt) Aren't they wonderful?  I
>showed her the ones you had done and she went from there!
>
>http://www.heatherspages.net/elizabeth%201/eliza%20access.htm
>
>
>Sg
>
>  
>
>>Who made those beautiful jewels with the stones and pearls in them?
>>
>>Deredere
>>    
>>
>>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
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Subject: [h-cost] happy holidays
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I just wanted to give thanks to everyone on the list who shares their
knowledge and opinions so freely. I am indebted to everyone who offered
website links, listed book recommendations (thanks to this list I had to
buy a new bookcase in August), gave picture interpretations and posted
photos of work. Although I'm still hugely ignorant, compared to this
time last year I'm a tiny bit less ignorant, and grateful for it. Thank
you all, and may your holidays be peaceful and full of kindness.
 
Gabriella from New Zealand
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Subject: [h-cost] nice problem to have: textile conservation Q
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The good news is that one of my Christmas presents is great-grandma-in-law's collection of lace and patterns, from 1909-1913. The BAD news is that they're spent nearly a century around a family full of smokers! One bit of the lace is badly deteriorated, from plain old age, but the rest is in almost perfect condition, apart from the awful stench. Other than that one small piece, it's not even discolored. 

What might you guys suggest for this kind of problem? The lace, as far as I can tell, is all cotton. It's strong, but I'm definitely not willing to risk bleach.  

Also, any ideas on how to preserve the patterns? I'm not going to sell them, and they're several sizes to small for me to use, but I might like to draft something in my size from them. I don't think they're enormously rare, or anything like that, so I may consider preserving them in a way that would reduce the value, from a historian's point of view. It would be kind of fun to laminate them, and hang them on my sewing room wall as partial wallpaper, for example. 

-E House
(who smokes, but always smokes outside away from any open windows, wears a smoking jacket, and washes her hands and face afterwards so that no whiff of smoke can possibly get near her sewing!)
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From: Chris <emeraldepona@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] nice problem to have: textile conservation Q
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hi,
 
I've got a fair collection of cotton lace from 1890-1930 and I've always had good luck cleaning/deordorizing it with a gentle soak in Oxy Clean.  I wouldn't use it for silk, but I have never had a problem with cotton lace.  I've gotten some pretty yucky stuff looking almost new again...
 
I don't know what to do with the patterns.  Perhaps a conversation with a local museum or historical site?  Sometimes an e-mail to a museum can be helpful?
 
Congratulations on your acquisitions, that's wonderful!
 
Regards,
Chris G.

E House <formfunc@formfunction.org> wrote:
The good news is that one of my Christmas presents is great-grandma-in-law's collection of lace and patterns, from 1909-1913. The BAD news is that they're spent nearly a century around a family full of smokers! One bit of the lace is badly deteriorated, from plain old age, but the rest is in almost perfect condition, apart from the awful stench. Other than that one small piece, it's not even discolored. 

What might you guys suggest for this kind of problem? The lace, as far as I can tell, is all cotton. It's strong, but I'm definitely not willing to risk bleach. 

Also, any ideas on how to preserve the patterns? I'm not going to sell them, and they're several sizes to small for me to use, but I might like to draft something in my size from them. I don't think they're enormously rare, or anything like that, so I may consider preserving them in a way that would reduce the value, from a historian's point of view. It would be kind of fun to laminate them, and hang them on my sewing room wall as partial wallpaper, for example. 


		
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I'm afraid I don't know much about textile conservation (or paper), so I 
can't help you directly.  BUT, I do have a friend who's the senior 
curator of our local historical museum, and I know she's had some 
training in these areas.
As it turns out, I'm having dinner with her tomorrow, so I'll ask her if 
she's got ideas for you, or other sources.
--sue

E House wrote:

> The good news is that one of my Christmas presents is
> great-grandma-in-law's collection of lace and patterns, from
> 1909-1913. The BAD news is that they're spent nearly a century around
> a family full of smokers! One bit of the lace is badly deteriorated,
> from plain old age, but the rest is in almost perfect condition,
> apart from the awful stench. Other than that one small piece, it's
> not even discolored.
> 
> What might you guys suggest for this kind of problem? The lace, as
> far as I can tell, is all cotton. It's strong, but I'm definitely not
> willing to risk bleach.
> 
> Also, any ideas on how to preserve the patterns? I'm not going to
> sell them, and they're several sizes to small for me to use, but I
> might like to draft something in my size from them. I don't think
> they're enormously rare, or anything like that, so I may consider
> preserving them in a way that would reduce the value, from a
> historian's point of view. It would be kind of fun to laminate them,
> and hang them on my sewing room wall as partial wallpaper, for
> example.

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Subject: [h-cost] Any body want to buy a fabric store?(Try again)
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This is from the Fabric Warehouse in Baltimore County:
 
***************************************************************
 
Thanks for being a Frequent Shopper at our store.  

As you  know, and some of you have not yet heard, Tony (the owner) got 
Married in  October.  Now he's moving to Mass. in March of 2005!

We need to find  a new person to OWN the Store or we're going to have to 
close.  The Staff  really wants to stay and keep working, but they need someone to 
purchase the  store and keep it open or they too will loose their jobs.

Do you know  anyone?  If so, Please let us know!  We only have a few more 
weeks  before we have to start a going out of business sale.  So far, we have had 
 a few interested persons, but none were able to follow thru or decided it 
was  too much work and they backed out.

We're offering a Commission to anyone  who can bring us a buyer.  

Hope to see you soon!

Happy  Holidays from all of us here at Fabric Warehouse

Shirley (&  Tony)
_shirley@fabricwarehouse.net_ (mailto:shirley@fabricwarehouse.net) 
 
*************************************
Kathleen Norvell
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Any body want to buy a fabric store?(Try again)
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The next question is: Baltimore County in what state?

Appin1@aol.com wrote:

>This is from the Fabric Warehouse in Baltimore County:
> 
>(snipped)
>We need to find  a new person to OWN the Store or we're going to have to 
>close.  The Staff  really wants to stay and keep working, but they need someone to 
>purchase the  store and keep it open or they too will loose their jobs.
>(snipped)
>Kathleen Norvell
>
>
>  
>

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Maryland

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Home Ec
Sent: Friday, December 24, 2004 6:10 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Any body want to buy a fabric store?(Try again)

The next question is: Baltimore County in what state?

Appin1@aol.com wrote:

>This is from the Fabric Warehouse in Baltimore County:
> 
>(snipped)
>We need to find  a new person to OWN the Store or we're going to have to 
>close.  The Staff  really wants to stay and keep working, but they need
someone to 
>purchase the  store and keep it open or they too will loose their jobs.
>(snipped)
>Kathleen Norvell
>
>
>  
>

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Hi,
We celebrate christmas this evening, so we are ahead of you.
I just got back from work, dripping wet because it rained and snowed all 
day.
Now i have to prepare our christmas dinner, we are going to eat roasted duck 
and ris'allamande wich is a desert with rice, whipped cream, vanilla and 
almonds, served with cherry sauce.
I wish you a blessed merry christmas and hope you get some wonderfull 
hollidays.
I am off to the kitchen......

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] merry christmass for all
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That souunds absolutely scrumptious, want to share the recipe for the
ris'allamande?  :)

Thanks,
Susan >

Hi,
> We celebrate christmas this evening, so we are ahead of you.
> I just got back from work, dripping wet because it rained and snowed all
> day.
> Now i have to prepare our christmas dinner, we are going to eat roasted
> duck
> and ris'allamande wich is a desert with rice, whipped cream, vanilla and
> almonds, served with cherry sauce.
> I wish you a blessed merry christmas and hope you get some wonderfull
> hollidays.
> I am off to the kitchen......
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



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On Friday 24 December 2004 9:12 am, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> Hi,
> We celebrate christmas this evening, so we are ahead of you.
> I just got back from work, dripping wet because it rained and snowed all
> day.
> Now i have to prepare our christmas dinner, we are going to eat roasted
> duck and ris'allamande wich is a desert with rice, whipped cream, vanilla
> and almonds, served with cherry sauce.

Yum.  It sounds wonderful, Bjarne.

> I wish you a blessed merry christmas and hope you get some wonderfull
> hollidays.

You too.  Merry Christmas, everybody!
-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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Happy Holidays to you, too, Bjarne, and to Leif! (and to everyone on the 
list, of course! ;o)
My religious observance of the season was earlier this month, but I'm 
off to spend the weekend with family (the secular end of Christmas, 
since I'm not Christian), which will involve exchanging presents, and 
eating turkey dinner.
Tonight, I'm going out to dinner with several friends to a lovely local 
restaurant that specializes in Mediterranean and North African cuisines. 
  We get very silly for a bunch of middle-aged women...we have holiday 
crackers imported from England (the kind with a prize and a paper 
crown), and all kinds of funny little gifts for each other.
--sue, off to wrap more presents and listen to lovely music on the radio ;-D

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> Hi,
> We celebrate christmas this evening, so we are ahead of you.
> I just got back from work, dripping wet because it rained and snowed all 
> day.
> Now i have to prepare our christmas dinner, we are going to eat roasted 
> duck and ris'allamande wich is a desert with rice, whipped cream, 
> vanilla and almonds, served with cherry sauce.
> I wish you a blessed merry christmas and hope you get some wonderfull 
> hollidays.
> I am off to the kitchen......
> 
> Bjarne

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Dec 24 13:26:15 2004
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Hi,
You make a porridge with the rice. Boil it with milk and a little sugar and 
half a split of vanilla.
Then you whip the cream and when the rice porridge is cold, it is turned 
gently into the whipped cream. Chop the almonds wich are white (without the 
shell) and mix these into the rice mix. If you want it really like 
christmass, you put one whole almond into it.
Served with hot cherry sauce with berries. The one who gets the almond has 
wun, and gets the "mandelgaven" (almond pressent)
You eat this after the big meal, so everybody usually is struggling with 
their appetite to get the almond.

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Date: Fri, 24 Dec 2004 12:45:28 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ris 'allemande
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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OOOOOO!!! My grandmother used to make this for me every morning
before school, I never knew the recipe. Thank you!!!

This is a great christmas present, a lost grandma favorite, found! :)

I never thought anyone would know what I was talking about if I
asked. She was adopted by a hispanic family, she was an albino in
Texas of all places. We know very little about her. She raised me.
She also banned me from the kitchen, thus, I never learned to cook
all my favorite foods. :(

Chiara

Bjarne og Leif Drews said:
>
> Hi,
> You make a porridge with the rice. Boil it with milk and a little
> sugar and
> half a split of vanilla.
> Then you whip the cream and when the rice porridge is cold, it is
> turned
> gently into the whipped cream. Chop the almonds wich are white
> (without the
> shell) and mix these into the rice mix. If you want it really like
> christmass, you put one whole almond into it.
> Served with hot cherry sauce with berries. The one who gets the
> almond has
> wun, and gets the "mandelgaven" (almond pressent)
> You eat this after the big meal, so everybody usually is struggling
> with
> their appetite to get the almond.
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


Franchesca Havas
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Merry christmas for all
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On Fri, 24 Dec 2004 12:02:21 -0700 (MST), h-costume-request@indra.com
<h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:
> 
> Message: 8
> Date: Fri, 24 Dec 2004 15:12:21 +0100
> From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> Subject: [h-cost] merry christmass for all
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <002a01c4e9c2$986acd80$4096fea9@CPQ21932199711>
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>         reply-type=original
> 
> Hi,
> We celebrate christmas this evening, so we are ahead of you.
> I just got back from work, dripping wet because it rained and snowed all
> day.
> Now i have to prepare our christmas dinner, we are going to eat roasted duck
> and ris'allamande wich is a desert with rice, whipped cream, vanilla and
> almonds, served with cherry sauce.
> I wish you a blessed merry christmas and hope you get some wonderfull
> hollidays.
> I am off to the kitchen......

You sew AND cook?! You know, we're all going to want to adopt you now! :P

Merry christmas everyone :)
> 
> Bjarne
> 

Allison T.
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On Fri, 24 Dec 2004 12:02:21 -0700 (MST), h-costume-request@indra.com
<h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:
> 
> Message: 8
> Date: Fri, 24 Dec 2004 15:12:21 +0100
> From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> Subject: [h-cost] merry christmass for all
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <002a01c4e9c2$986acd80$4096fea9@CPQ21932199711>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
>         reply-type=original
> 
> Hi,
> We celebrate christmas this evening, so we are ahead of you.
> I just got back from work, dripping wet because it rained and snowed all
> day.
> Now i have to prepare our christmas dinner, we are going to eat roasted duck
> and ris'allamande wich is a desert with rice, whipped cream, vanilla and
> almonds, served with cherry sauce.
> I wish you a blessed merry christmas and hope you get some wonderfull
> hollidays.
> I am off to the kitchen......

You sew AND cook?! You know, we're all going to want to adopt you now! :P

Merry christmas everyone :)
> 
> Bjarne
> 

Allison T.
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Wicked Frau" <wickedfrau@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] ris 'allemande
Date: Fri, 24 Dec 2004 13:46:28 -0700
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I was thinking this word looked terribly familiar and I figured it out.
Allemand is the French word for German..(I've never taken French, and have
no idea why I recognized it.)...what do you suppose that connection is?? 

Sg

Have wonderful holidays whichever you celebrate!





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Wishing everyone on the list a safe and joyous day no matter what you are celebrating (and even if you aren't celebrating anything at all!).



Karen

________________________________________________________________
Juno Gift Certificates
Give the gift of Internet access this holiday season.
http://www.juno.com/give

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Hi, and happy holidays,
I am still squinting hard at the illustrations in Woven Into The Earth, and
I am having an hell of a time actually SEEING the stitches as described. One
of the stitch types that Ostergard mentions frequently is "stab stitching".
This makes me think of sewing so violently that one draws blood (ow ow ow),
but I gather that "stab stitching" is a sort of running stitch? Can anyone
enlighten me further?

Also, about "singling" the edges -- this is sewing that follows the plane of
the fabric, perpendicular to the cut edge? (most seams are perpendicular to
the plane of the fabric and parallel to a cut edge.) Somehow I am not seeing
in the photos what the accompanying diagrams tell me I should see, and I
just want to confirm this with others.

Because I have a 3-day weekend and some un-cut wool fabric to play with...
Thanks - 
Lauren

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] stab stitching?
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   As I understand it, "stab stitching" is the sort where you poke the needle down (or up)
through the fabric, draw the thread snug, "stab" the other direction, draw the thread snug,
etc - as opposed to running stitch where you take up several stitches on the needle at once 
before drawing the thread through.  The result can look like running stitch, though...
  DOn't know anything about "singling", though......<G>

Liadain

-----Original Message-----
From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
Sent: Dec 24, 2004 1:21 PM
To: h-costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] stab stitching?

Hi, and happy holidays,
I am still squinting hard at the illustrations in Woven Into The Earth, and
I am having an hell of a time actually SEEING the stitches as described. One
of the stitch types that Ostergard mentions frequently is "stab stitching".
This makes me think of sewing so violently that one draws blood (ow ow ow),
but I gather that "stab stitching" is a sort of running stitch? Can anyone
enlighten me further?

Also, about "singling" the edges -- this is sewing that follows the plane of
the fabric, perpendicular to the cut edge? (most seams are perpendicular to
the plane of the fabric and parallel to a cut edge.) Somehow I am not seeing
in the photos what the accompanying diagrams tell me I should see, and I
just want to confirm this with others.

Because I have a 3-day weekend and some un-cut wool fabric to play with...
Thanks - 
Lauren

_______________________________________________
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] stab stitching?
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Lauren wrote:
One > of the stitch types that Ostergard mentions frequently is "stab 
stitching".
> This makes me think of sewing so violently that one draws blood (ow ow 
> ow),
> but I gather that "stab stitching" is a sort of running stitch? Can anyone
> enlighten me further?
>

Instead of working almost horizontally and passing the needle through the 
fabric several times before pulling the thread through, as in a running 
stitch, you work vertically and pass the needle through the fabric from top 
to bottom, pull the thread, then bottom to top, pull the thread, repeat. 
The end results look almost the same but you can get very more even stitches 
and have better control.  It's slower, and it also helps if you can hold the 
fabric taut.

Happy holidays,
         -Helen/Aidan 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ris 'allemande
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In a message dated 12/24/2004 1:29:32 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

> You eat this after the big meal, so everybody usually is struggling with 
> their appetite to get the almond.
> 

Fun AND yummy!

I know I'm jumping the gun but we here in the South do a similar thing at New 
Years. You're supposed to have the traditional New Year's Day dinner of ham 
[any pork will do actually] red eye gravy [made with coffee and pan drippings] 
greens and black eyed peas. You put a dime in the big serving bowl of peas [my 
mother was afraid someone would swallow the dime so she used a silver dollar] 
and whoever gets it keeps it all year for luck. Black eyed peas aren't 
dessert but they are yummy too, especially with a garnish of chopped raw onion.

Well, I must say Christmas doesn't look like it's under siege here [or 
anywhere else for that matter] but I'm an atheist so I'll wish everyone a Saturnalia 
Gloriosa!

Happy Holidays everyone....and PEACE ON EARTH!
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In a message dated 12/24/2004 3:49:42 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
wickedfrau@earthlink.net writes:

> Allemand is the French word for German

It's a dance too, no?
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] ris 'allemande
Date: Fri, 24 Dec 2004 16:49:51 -0600
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This is one of two recipes my German Grandmother made. Both she called
German puddings or rice puddings. She liked to make the baked one more. My
other Grandmother told me once that on Christmas Day her family would make
the rice porridge and hide an almond in it. The porridge would be dished out
and the one who had the almond in their bowl would get a Christmas wish and
through the coming year the family would see what could be done to grant
this wish.

Happy Holidays!
De

-----Original Message-----
Hi,
You make a porridge with the rice. Boil it with milk and a little sugar and
half a split of vanilla.
Then you whip the cream and when the rice porridge is cold, it is turned
gently into the whipped cream. Chop the almonds wich are white (without the
shell) and mix these into the rice mix. If you want it really like
christmass, you put one whole almond into it.
Served with hot cherry sauce with berries. The one who gets the almond has
wun, and gets the "mandelgaven" (almond pressent)
You eat this after the big meal, so everybody usually is struggling with
their appetite to get the almond.

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/


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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ris 'allemande
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AlbertCat wrote:
>> Allemand is the French word for German
>
> It's a dance too, no?
> _______________________________________________

Yup.  Very popular in the late 16th c, and settings by various composers 
survive.  It's described in Arbeau's _Orchesographie_ (1589).
                -Helen/Aidan


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Date: Fri, 24 Dec 2004 20:39:50 -0800
Subject: Re: [h-cost] stab stitching?
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On Fri, 24 Dec 2004 16:21:33 -0500 Lauren Walker
<lauren.walker@comcast.net> writes:
> Hi, and happy holidays,
> I am still squinting hard at the illustrations in Woven Into The 
> Earth, and
> I am having an hell of a time actually SEEING the stitches as 
> described. One
> of the stitch types that Ostergard mentions frequently is "stab 
> stitching".
> This makes me think of sewing so violently that one draws blood (ow 
> ow ow),
> but I gather that "stab stitching" is a sort of running stitch? Can 
> anyone
> enlighten me further?

Happy holidays!

Stab stitching refers to the motion of the stitch itself. If you are
drawing thread up from underneath the fabric, you stitch with your needle
pointing straight up. Likewise, when you draw your thread to the
underside of the fabric, you point your needle straight down.

Stab stitch is used in a variety of embroidery styles. 

Arlys
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From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Singling in Greenland
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Singling appears to be a pre-emptive darning to
reinforce edges.

The thread follows a woven thread in a few picks,
moves over & follows another woven thread back out and
so on to reinforce the edge.

Ann in CT


		
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	<004b01c4ea29$64d7f5d0$74159b04@HELENPINTO>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ris 'allemande
Date: Sat, 25 Dec 2004 17:42:54 +0100
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Hi,
Oh yes it is a danse two, and it was popular trough centuries.
I know how to danse a german renaissance allemande very cheerfull and 
gracefull.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Helen Pinto" <hpinto@mindspring.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 25, 2004 3:28 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ris 'allemande


> AlbertCat wrote:
>>> Allemand is the French word for German
>>
>> It's a dance too, no?
>> _______________________________________________
>
> Yup.  Very popular in the late 16th c, and settings by various composers 
> survive.  It's described in Arbeau's _Orchesographie_ (1589).
>                -Helen/Aidan
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Date: Sat, 25 Dec 2004 13:46:24 -0500
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Singling in Greenland
From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Aha! and Thank you! This explains why it is so hard for me to see in the
pictures, too. 
Lauren

> From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Sat, 25 Dec 2004 07:37:12 -0800 (PST)
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] Singling in Greenland
> 
> Singling appears to be a pre-emptive darning to
> reinforce edges.
> 
> The thread follows a woven thread in a few picks,
> moves over & follows another woven thread back out and
> so on to reinforce the edge.
> 
> Ann in CT
> 
> 
> 

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Date: Sat, 25 Dec 2004 13:48:26 -0500
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ris 'allemande
From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Isn't "allemande" also a step in modern US square dancing? I seem to
remember "allemande left" and "allemande right" being called by the
(pre-recorded) caller in the awful, awful 5th grade gym classes in which we
were forced to square dance with (ick! germs!) the boys.

Funny how differently we felt about those same boys a year or two later!
Lauren

> From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>

> Subject: Re: [h-cost] ris 'allemande
> 
> Hi,
> Oh yes it is a danse two, and it was popular trough centuries.
> I know how to danse a german renaissance allemande very cheerfull and
> gracefull.
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> 

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Dec 25 14:00:06 2004
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] nice problem to have: textile conservation Q
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Hello.
I would take each lace seperately to wash in soap flakes.
You can use very hot water. Gentle wrap each lace round a glass bottle, put 
a needle to secure it in the end, and stern the bottle in the soap water. 
Rinse water with many hot waters afterwards.
Let each lace dry on the bottle, you get the lace nice and dont have to iron 
it.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, December 24, 2004 4:07 AM
Subject: [h-cost] nice problem to have: textile conservation Q


The good news is that one of my Christmas presents is great-grandma-in-law's 
collection of lace and patterns, from 1909-1913. The BAD news is that 
they're spent nearly a century around a family full of smokers! One bit of 
the lace is badly deteriorated, from plain old age, but the rest is in 
almost perfect condition, apart from the awful stench. Other than that one 
small piece, it's not even discolored.

What might you guys suggest for this kind of problem? The lace, as far as I 
can tell, is all cotton. It's strong, but I'm definitely not willing to risk 
bleach.

Also, any ideas on how to preserve the patterns? I'm not going to sell them, 
and they're several sizes to small for me to use, but I might like to draft 
something in my size from them. I don't think they're enormously rare, or 
anything like that, so I may consider preserving them in a way that would 
reduce the value, from a historian's point of view. It would be kind of fun 
to laminate them, and hang them on my sewing room wall as partial wallpaper, 
for example.

-E House
(who smokes, but always smokes outside away from any open windows, wears a 
smoking jacket, and washes her hands and face afterwards so that no whiff of 
smoke can possibly get near her sewing!)
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Thank you all for the suggestions. Sue, I would be delighted to hear what 
your friend might advise!

-E House

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [other] Re: [h-cost] ris 'allemande now dance steps
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At 13:48 25/12/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Isn't "allemande" also a step in modern US square dancing? I seem to
>remember "allemande left" and "allemande right" being called by the
>(pre-recorded) caller in the awful, awful 5th grade gym classes in which we
>were forced to square dance with (ick! germs!) the boys.
>
>Funny how differently we felt about those same boys a year or two later!
>Lauren
>


I think this may be a corruption of "A la main" left etc. In other words, 
to the left hand, etc.

Suzi, full of Christmas dinner!!


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Subject: RE: [other] Re: [h-cost] ris 'allemande now dance steps
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Actually allemande is used in reference to square and round dances. It is
used to discribe one of the dance movements like doseedo (sp?) means to go
forward to the right of your partner and while still facing forward come
around to the left side of the partner and back up to your oringinal spot. I
am mind fogging on the allemande step. "Al la main" is what, so I am told, a
"corruption" of allemande through years of the country twang/accent. Most
early callers learned the movements by listening to a caller, it was rare to
learn from a book.

De
Home sick for Christmas but my cats are doing thier best to make me feel
better.:)
-----Original Message-----
At 13:48 25/12/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Isn't "allemande" also a step in modern US square dancing? I seem to
>remember "allemande left" and "allemande right" being called by the
>(pre-recorded) caller in the awful, awful 5th grade gym classes in which we
>were forced to square dance with (ick! germs!) the boys.
>
>Funny how differently we felt about those same boys a year or two later!
>Lauren
>


I think this may be a corruption of "A la main" left etc. In other words,
to the left hand, etc.

Suzi, full of Christmas dinner!!




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From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] ris 'allemande now dance steps
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--- otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:

> doseedo (sp?) 
> 
> De

Dosido, corrupted from "dos a dos" or back to back.

And wasn't that a moment, when I could interpret that
notation in a dance manual to be something I can
dance--even in a train.
ok, it was a short train.

Ann in CT


		
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Subject: [h-cost] I have to share with *someone*!!!
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I have the absolute best friends in the world.

Some time ago, I told my husband that I'd really like for us to go to
England when I graduate. He replied that he would have to miss Pennsic
and that he didn't much care to go to England. Naturally, I was more
than a little bummed, but I knew that I couldn't afford to go
anyway...

Fast forward to today, Christmas day. My friend and her husband stop
by to drop off prezzies for the family. Mike hands me a gift to open
and tells me that the rest of my gift is in the bottom of the bag. I
open the smaller gift--it's the makings for a plaque belt--and then
dig around the bag, which weighs next to nothing, to see what's in the
bottom.

There was an envelope my friend had made that was about the size of a
small pencil case--it was supposed to look like something from a
travel agency. In it was a poem that she had written, telling me that
she and I were going to London for 10 days when I graduate--that her
husband was picking up the tab and that all I needed was my suitcases,
clothes and spending money.

Overwhelmed doesn't even begin to cover the wild rush of feelings.
"Thank you" seems *so* inadequate.

It looks like it will either be fall of 2005 or spring of 2006. I hope
that when we visit London that we can meet with some of y'all!

I hope that you all have had as wonderful a holiday as I have!

kate, the truly blessed


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From: "Angharad ver' Reynulf" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] I have to share with *someone*!!!
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Huzzah!  Enjoy yourself Kate!!

Definitely very very VERY cool friends!

Angharad




		
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Oh HOW wonderful!!!  Yes you are very blessed.  Pennsic, England, Pennsic???  Nope, England without question.
 
Have FUN and I, for one, can't wait to hear all about it!
 
Chris G.

ailith <ailith@neo.rr.com> wrote:
I have the absolute best friends in the world.

Some time ago, I told my husband that I'd really like for us to go to
England when I graduate. He replied that he would have to miss Pennsic
and that he didn't much care to go to England. Naturally, I was more
than a little bummed, but I knew that I couldn't afford to go
anyway...

Fast forward to today, Christmas day. My friend and her husband stop
by to drop off prezzies for the family. Mike hands me a gift to open
and tells me that the rest of my gift is in the bottom of the bag. I
open the smaller gift--it's the makings for a plaque belt--and then
dig around the bag, which weighs next to nothing, to see what's in the
bottom.

There was an envelope my friend had made that was about the size of a
small pencil case--it was supposed to look like something from a
travel agency. In it was a poem that she had written, telling me that
she and I were going to London for 10 days when I graduate--that her
husband was picking up the tab and that all I needed was my suitcases,
clothes and spending money.

Overwhelmed doesn't even begin to cover the wild rush of feelings.
"Thank you" seems *so* inadequate.

It looks like it will either be fall of 2005 or spring of 2006. I hope
that when we visit London that we can meet with some of y'all!

I hope that you all have had as wonderful a holiday as I have!

kate, the truly blessed


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Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com> wrote:--- otsisto wrote:
SNIP
And wasn't that a moment, when I could interpret that notation in a dance manual to be something I can dance--even in a train.   ok, it was a short train.
Ann in CT
 
Dancing in a short train?
What, one locomotive and a private Pullman car fitted as a Ballroom? 
 
Sorry, couldn't resist that!    :-)>




Yours in service, 
Julian Wilson,
[aka. Messire Matthew Baker/Matthieu Besquer, Governor & Castellan of Jersey, 1486-1497: - "Si vis pacem, para bellum"]
late-medieval Re-enactor; & Historian and Master Artisan to  
"The Companie of the Duke's Leopards",
in "olde" Jersey
		
---------------------------------
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Wow...  that is definately a blessing.  enjoy your trip... and your friend. 
; > Bridgette

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Subject: [h-cost] Happy whatever ; > 
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Hi folks... just a Happy (whatever you happen to be celebrating) Day.  I'm 
keeping you all in my thoughts - hoping the new year brings us all health 
and joy.

And (obligatory knitting content) I am increasingly impressed with others 
who have done these relic purses.   Egads... I'm pecking away at the one on 
my needles,  but every round just gets me closer to saying -never- 
again.   Although I am enjoying the learning process.

Bridgette

Mari Stewart
Webmaster
College of Veterinary Medicine
Cornell University


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ris 'allemande
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Thanks for sharing the instructions, this looks very similar to something my 
Swedish great-grandmother used to make.  I'll have to try it soon :)

Susan

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, December 24, 2004 12:25 PM
Subject: [h-cost] ris 'allemande


>
> Hi,
> You make a porridge with the rice. Boil it with milk and a little sugar 
> and half a split of vanilla.
> Then you whip the cream and when the rice porridge is cold, it is turned 
> gently into the whipped cream. Chop the almonds wich are white (without 
> the shell) and mix these into the rice mix. If you want it really like 
> christmass, you put one whole almond into it.
> Served with hot cherry sauce with berries. The one who gets the almond has 
> wun, and gets the "mandelgaven" (almond pressent)
> You eat this after the big meal, so everybody usually is struggling with 
> their appetite to get the almond.
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Wicked Frau" <wickedfrau@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] ris 'allemande now dance steps
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Cool!  I LOVE THIS GROUP!  (Imagine me on the piazza yelling that!).

>Dosido, corrupted from "dos a dos" or back to back.

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In a message dated 12/25/2004 3:24:53 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

I think  this may be a corruption of "A la main" left etc. In other words, 
to the  left hand, etc.



So we used to believe--the allemande is usually styled as a forearm turn in  
modern Western square dancing.  But I understand there is also an  "allemande" 
figure in German dances, so the corruption of "a la main" probably  doesn't 
hold--UNLESS that is where the name of the original German figure came  from.
 
Many modern Western dancers now swing when doing a dosido, instead of going  
back to back, but I always insist on it, saying I'm a purist.  (And if the  
caller wants to be nasty, s/he will call "dosido" once and a half, where you  
would end up back to back with your partner--which is completely messed up if  
you swing instead!)
 
Ann Wass
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Sorry for this completely off-topic post, but I'm
hoping to get help from the international members of
the list. I'm looking for well-recommended Dutch
bookstores selling on the web (that will ship
internationally), selling Dutch-language books (not
literary texts, just popular novels and the like).
Amazon.nl bumps you over to amazon.uk, and they don't
seem to have a very extensive inventory of
Dutch-language books (well, I'm actually looking for
audiobooks).

Thanks! Oh, and Happy Holidays to ya'll!



Claudine
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Dec 26 14:10:09 2004
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] OT Dutch web-bookstore
Date: Sun, 26 Dec 2004 11:18:32 -0800
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Claudine,

	I would suggest you contact Henk d'Jong.  He is the head of a re-enactment
(Very Authentically minded and done) in the Netherlands.  It actually seems
to be his life, avocation and vocation.
	Henk 't Jong [scapreel@tip.nl]
	He is a mine of information!

Wanda Pease
Hope this will be the Best New Year to date

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of cw15147-lists@yahoo.com
> Sent: Sunday, December 26, 2004 10:40 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] OT Dutch web-bookstore
>
>
> Sorry for this completely off-topic post, but I'm
> hoping to get help from the international members of
> the list. I'm looking for well-recommended Dutch
> bookstores selling on the web (that will ship
> internationally), selling Dutch-language books (not
> literary texts, just popular novels and the like).
> Amazon.nl bumps you over to amazon.uk, and they don't
> seem to have a very extensive inventory of
> Dutch-language books (well, I'm actually looking for
> audiobooks).
>
> Thanks! Oh, and Happy Holidays to ya'll!
>
>
>
> Claudine
>

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I just wanted to tell that DMC has started to make linen embroidery thread, it looks fairly good, the colours are deep and even. I have bought a beginning set with 12 colours.

I have not yet tried to stitch with it. The individual threads seems a bit uneveven in thickness though. This is meant for cross-stitch though (I personally hate to do cross-stitches), but personally I think it is fitting for any sort of embroidery one wants to do.

Tania


		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] DMC Linen
From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
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Cool. Is it being sold by the usual suspects?
Lauren

> From: Tania Gruning <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>

> 
> I just wanted to tell that DMC has started to make linen embroidery thread, it
> looks fairly good, the colours are deep and even. I have bought a beginning
> set with 12 colours.
> 
> I have not yet tried to stitch with it. The individual threads seems a bit
> uneveven in thickness though. This is meant for cross-stitch though (I
> personally hate to do cross-stitches), but personally I think it is fitting
> for any sort of embroidery one wants to do.
> 
> Tania

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Dec 26 14:57:19 2004
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Subject: Re: [other] Re: [h-cost] ris 'allemande now dance steps
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I will have to watch out for you if I am ever square dancing! ;-)
But how strange to turn do-si-do into a swing! That's as annoying as using
"comprised *of*" for the same reason -- there already *is* a swing, just as
there are already lots of words to which you can append "of" to imply "made
up of", but only one comprise, which has the sense of "of" already within
it. And do-si-do is charming and unique, too!

Not, you know, that I would sympathize with being a purist about anything or
anything. ;-)

Must go take the dog to frolic in the snow. She loves the wintry weather;
all the better for accumulating dog-wool for future spinning.
Lauren


> From: AnnBWass@aol.com

> Many modern Western dancers now swing when doing a dosido, instead of going
> back to back, but I always insist on it, saying I'm a purist.  (And if the
> caller wants to be nasty, s/he will call "dosido" once and a half, where you
> would end up back to back with your partner--which is completely messed up if
> you swing instead!)
> 
> Ann Wass
> _______________________________________________

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	Sun, 26 Dec 2004 12:01:50 PST
Date: Sun, 26 Dec 2004 12:01:50 -0800 (PST)
From: Tania Gruning <tania_gr17@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] DMC Linen
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Really have no idea, I found it in a specialty embroidery store in Copenhagen, Denmark, but I suppose so.
Tania

Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net> wrote:
Cool. Is it being sold by the usual suspects?
Lauren

> From: Tania Gruning 

> 
> I just wanted to tell that DMC has started to make linen embroidery thread, it
> looks fairly good, the colours are deep and even. I have bought a beginning
> set with 12 colours.
> 
> I have not yet tried to stitch with it. The individual threads seems a bit
> uneveven in thickness though. This is meant for cross-stitch though (I
> personally hate to do cross-stitches), but personally I think it is fitting
> for any sort of embroidery one wants to do.
> 
> Tania

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Date: Sun, 26 Dec 2004 12:07:42 -0800
Subject: Re: [h-cost] DMC Linen
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Seasons greetings all!

My friends at Pastiche --<Pastiche@teleport.com> if you're interested,
and you will be ;) -- have been hunting high and low for DMC linen
embroidery thread in the U.S. for several years, and called the company.
In their infinite wisdom, the DMC folks said, "We don't distribute it in
the States--there's no demand for it." After the proprietors explained
the number of re-enactors, re-creationists, etc., they got nowhere, but
the good news is that they are able to import it from Europe where it is
distributed. They were only able to get it in ivory, cream, and beige,
and have a local dyer who will be dyeing it for them for folks who want
other colors. This will all happen in the next few months. 

They carry a wide variety of imported fabrics and trims, and a good
selection of books. I don't recall their website offhand, but try
Googling it under Pastiche Portland.

Financial restraint is very difficult to practice regarding their wares.
They are both highly skilled and knowledgeable, and can advise you if you
have any questions.

Arlys, one happy customer

On Sun, 26 Dec 2004 11:41:10 -0800 (PST) Tania Gruning
<tania_gr17@yahoo.com> writes:
> 
> I just wanted to tell that DMC has started to make linen embroidery 
> thread, it looks fairly good, the colours are deep and even. I have 
> bought a beginning set with 12 colours.
> 
> I have not yet tried to stitch with it. The individual threads seems 
> a bit uneveven in thickness though. This is meant for cross-stitch 
> though (I personally hate to do cross-stitches), but personally I 
> think it is fitting for any sort of embroidery one wants to do.
> 
> Tania
> 
> 
> 		
> ---------------------------------
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In a message dated 12/26/2004 3:14:14 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
cley@juno.com writes:

They  were only able to get it in ivory, cream, and beige,
and have a local dyer  who will be dyeing it for them for folks who want
other colors. This will  all happen in the next few months. 



Considering how hard it is to dye linen, it would be MUCH more satisfactory  
to get it factory dyed.  Sounds like something else to get friends to look  
out for when they go to Europe--would certainly be lightweight to carry  home.
 
Ann Wass
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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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I'm surprised no one has yet started the annual topic of "What 
costume-related gifts did you get for Christmas/Hanukkah/the Solstice?"  
I always find it interesting.

I don't usually get a lot of them myself, as I always buy my own fabric, 
patterns, and tools, and usually my own books.  I did get  _Woven into 
the Earth_ (except it didn't arrive in time), two copies of a circa 1930 
sewing booklet, a plastic chest of drawers sort of thing for sewing 
hardware and notions, and a reproduction Edwardian pendant, white gold 
and (small) diamond bow with an aquamarine drop suspended from it. 

I also got a very fancy wooden case. It has a carved frame with an Art 
Nouveau poster (cafe table with seated woman) decoupaged onto the front 
and back, and is fully lined with a thin brown felt. It looks like 
something the Victorian Trading Company would sell.  However, I don't 
know what to do with it.  It is apparently intended for carrying and/or 
storing three bottles of wine, having three slots of appropriate size 
for same.  The problem is, I hardly ever drink anything, there are no 
occasions on which I'd carry three bottles of wine around, and I don't 
think you're supposed to store wine upright.  I'm trying to think of 
some sewing stuff I could store in it.  Unfortunately the dividers 
between the wine bottle slots are firmly glued in.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com




>  
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT Dutch web-bookstore
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http://www.bol.com/
Try this one

cw15147-lists@yahoo.com wrote:

>Sorry for this completely off-topic post, but I'm
>hoping to get help from the international members of
>the list. I'm looking for well-recommended Dutch
>bookstores selling on the web (that will ship
>internationally), selling Dutch-language books (not
>literary texts, just popular novels and the like).
>Amazon.nl bumps you over to amazon.uk, and they don't
>seem to have a very extensive inventory of
>Dutch-language books (well, I'm actually looking for
>audiobooks).
>
>Thanks! Oh, and Happy Holidays to ya'll!
>
>
>
>Claudine
>_______________________________________________
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>  
>

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Date: Sun, 26 Dec 2004 14:42:24 -0700
From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] DMC Linen
References: <20041226.120926.3568.0.Cley@juno.com>
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That's putting it mildly! <g> They've got such a great assortment of 
stuph (fabrics AND books AND yarns AND fibers for spinning? How can a 
girl resist?), that I praise god annually that they're not local for me, 
or I'd be talking about arranging for the monthly direct deposit of my 
paycheck!
I scored some absolutely scrumptious, light-weight, burgundy/maroon wool 
from them this past early summer.  It *still* hasn't decided which 
century it wants to live in--either in the 12th c. as a "bliaut," or the 
14th c. as a fitted gown, or in the 16th c. as something florentine or 
german.
--sue

Cynthia J Ley wrote, talking of Pastiche:
<snipped>
> Financial restraint is very difficult to practice regarding their wares.
> They are both highly skilled and knowledgeable, and can advise you if you
> have any questions.


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Dec 26 17:35:47 2004
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Date: Sun, 26 Dec 2004 17:34:57 -0500
Subject: Re: [h-cost] DMC Linen
From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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But they do not seem to have an web site!
Lauren


> From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>

> 
> That's putting it mildly! <g> They've got such a great assortment of
> stuph (fabrics AND books AND yarns AND fibers for spinning? How can a
> girl resist?), that I praise god annually that they're not local for me,
> or I'd be talking about arranging for the monthly direct deposit of my
> paycheck!
> I scored some absolutely scrumptious, light-weight, burgundy/maroon wool
> from them this past early summer.  It *still* hasn't decided which
> century it wants to live in--either in the 12th c. as a "bliaut," or the
> 14th c. as a fitted gown, or in the 16th c. as something florentine or
> german.
> --sue
> 
> Cynthia J Ley wrote, talking of Pastiche:
> <snipped>
>> Financial restraint is very difficult to practice regarding their wares.
>> They are both highly skilled and knowledgeable, and can advise you if you
>> have any questions.
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Dec 26 17:48:37 2004
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From: "Megan M." <megan@benchite.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Costume-Related Holiday Gifts
Date: Sun, 26 Dec 2004 17:47:41 -0500
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I got - NOTHING costume related.  I got chocolate, more chocolate, and the
laptop I am writing this email upon, so I can't complain.  Since the laptop
will allow me to stay connected during my many trips to Pittsburgh to care
for my father, this will be wonderful.  So, I suppose it could be considered
costume-related if I use it to order fabric and such.
Stretching it, I know, but what did you all get?
-Megge




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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Dec 26 17:58:58 2004
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From: "ailith" <ailith@neo.rr.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] reference book for shoes
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I was looking around on Hedgehog Handworks site and saw this
book--Stepping Through Time

(by Olaf Goubitz et al)--and was wondering if anyone has it and what
they thought about it. It's $70 and I hesitate to spend the $$ for it
if it's not a great reference.

A friend of mine is very interested in turn shoes and I was thinking
about getting it for him.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks so much.

kate


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Dec 26 18:38:55 2004
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Hi,
I got (as a birthdaygift also 50 in january) 30 back issues of the 
australian embroidery magazine Inspirations..............

Yum yum yum

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Hmmm... the gifts that I received, I like to make into costume related.  I 
see costume in a lot of things that people don't normally see or think are 
related to costume or fashion.  This year I have been into old rock concerts 
with a theatrical costume and/or set design.  My interest in these 
performances has been since we went to an Alice Cooper concert last summer. 
I received the DVDs of the 1970s concerts of Alice Cooper's Welcome to My 
Nightmare, and Electric Light Orchestra's (ELO) from 1978 (the concert with 
the spaceship landing on stage). I have two more DVD's with the theatrical 
flare that I want, the Earth, Wind, and Fire 1970s tour with the fantastic 
fringed costumes and pyro/fireworks.. and Phil Collins 1990 U.S tour with 
the carousel stage.  Also received the DVD of the making of the Fleetwood 
Mac "Rumors" album. Love the Stevie Nicks Goth stage costumes. Also received 
more angels for my collection.  One of my interns sent me a 2005 calendar, 
with Art Deco fashion plates from the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston.  Love 
it all year long!!!

I also gave costume/fashion related gifts.  Framed a beautiful geisha girl 
fabric panel for my son.  Gave my daughter-in-law a table top book about 
20th Century designer purses, and my future daughter-in-law, I had crocheted 
her a scarf.  Also gave her a geisha girl comb... for combing the hair and 
not an ornament to be put in the hair.

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] DMC Linen
Date: Sun, 26 Dec 2004 20:23:59 -0500
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I didn't know DMC made linen thread, but I've used Londonderry before.  It's 
pretty smooth compared to some of the other linen threads.  It comes in more 
than twenty colors and several weights, and I know that you can get it from 
The Edwardian Needle and Threadneedle Street.
                   -Aidan
 


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Dec 26 21:58:02 2004
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] reference book for shoes
Date: Sun, 26 Dec 2004 19:12:01 -0800
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I have this one and have loaned it to many shoemakers in the area.  All find
it to be a wonderful resource.  I originally got it on the advice of Marc
Carlson the SCA and academic Leather/shoe expert
http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/shoe/SHOEHOME.HTM .  If you
scroll down on his bibliography page you will find numerous works by
Goubitz, museum leather expert in the Netherlands.  He felt that it put into
one volume much of the information that he had been digging out of obscure
journals for many years.

Depends on how "into" shoemaking you are.  Or, it depends on how much of a
book junkie.  I'm a bit of a "book?  Anglo-Saxon clothing?  Sure!  After all
I'm Elizabethan, and that's close!"

Like I said, book junkie.

Wanda Pease

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of ailith
> Sent: Sunday, December 26, 2004 2:58 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] reference book for shoes
>
>
> I was looking around on Hedgehog Handworks site and saw this
> book--Stepping Through Time
>
> (by Olaf Goubitz et al)--and was wondering if anyone has it and what
> they thought about it. It's $70 and I hesitate to spend the $$ for it
> if it's not a great reference.
>
> A friend of mine is very interested in turn shoes and I was thinking
> about getting it for him.
>
> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
>
> Thanks so much.
>
> kate
>
>
>

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] reference book for shoes
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This is a fantastic book. It is not, however, a "how to make shoes" book,
but rather a fairly intensive reference on archaeological shoe finds.

If your friend already knows how to make shoes, it would be a wonderful
reference for shoe styles. I like it much better than "Shoes and Pattens"
because it covers a much wider geographical area, and a wider span of time.

Talia


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Pastiche was Re: [h-cost] DMC Linen
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IIRC, they're working on one...
--sue

Lauren Walker wrote:
> But they do not seem to have an web site!
> Lauren
> 
> 
> 
>>From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
> 
> 
>>That's putting it mildly! <g> They've got such a great assortment of
>>stuph (fabrics AND books AND yarns AND fibers for spinning? How can a
>>girl resist?), that I praise god annually that they're not local for me,
>>or I'd be talking about arranging for the monthly direct deposit of my
>>paycheck!
>>I scored some absolutely scrumptious, light-weight, burgundy/maroon wool
>>from them this past early summer.  It *still* hasn't decided which
>>century it wants to live in--either in the 12th c. as a "bliaut," or the
>>14th c. as a fitted gown, or in the 16th c. as something florentine or
>>german.
>>--sue
>>
>>Cynthia J Ley wrote, talking of Pastiche:
>><snipped>
>>
>>>Financial restraint is very difficult to practice regarding their wares.
>>>They are both highly skilled and knowledgeable, and can advise you if you
>>>have any questions.

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Thanks so much for the information, y'all!

Yes, he knows how to make them. I got a pair for Christmas! :-) It
sounds like something he'd really like.

kate
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "khanson" <khanson@kc.rr.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 26, 2004 10:17 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] reference book for shoes


> This is a fantastic book. It is not, however, a "how to make shoes"
book,
> but rather a fairly intensive reference on archaeological shoe
finds.
>
> If your friend already knows how to make shoes, it would be a
wonderful
> reference for shoe styles. I like it much better than "Shoes and
Pattens"
> because it covers a much wider geographical area, and a wider span
of time.
>
> Talia
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
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> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] DMC Linen
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> Arlys wrote:
<snip>
> In their infinite wisdom, the DMC folks said, "We don't distribute it in
> the States--there's no demand for it." After the proprietors explained
> the number of re-enactors, re-creationists, etc., they got nowhere, but
> the good news is that they are able to import it from Europe where it is
> distributed. They were only able to get it in ivory, cream, and beige,
> and have a local dyer who will be dyeing it for them for folks who want
> other colors. This will all happen in the next few months.

Hmm,
Would a letter-writing campaign do the trick here? If everyone on this list
pestered DMC, plus everyone from all of the other lists that we each are on,
and so on and so on..
Might that make an impression?

Sheridan


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume-Related Holiday Gifts
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I really didn't get much of anything costume related, but then I really 
never do.  I'm the only one in my family who does anything even remotely 
connected with costume or historical reenactment of any variety, and I 
suspect that my hobbies mostly bore and bewilder them.  Costume-related 
stuff I mostly get for myself. ;o)
I did get lots of chocolate and some very nice, non-costuming goodies, 
and 3 (!) of those cute, artisan-yarn, long, skinny, knitted scarves 
that are so popular.  Oh, and a cute, little booklet on beading for 
fiber artists, with some interesting (modern) techniques in it, and the 
extended-version DVD of the Return of the King (but that's stretching it 
for costuming stuff).
Oh, and I *did* buy myself a copy of Woven into the Earth, but it won't 
be here until mid-January at the earliest....
--sue

Lavolta Press wrote:

> 
> I'm surprised no one has yet started the annual topic of "What 
> costume-related gifts did you get for Christmas/Hanukkah/the Solstice?"  
> I always find it interesting.


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] DMC Linen
Date: Sun, 26 Dec 2004 22:33:24 -0600
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Not a bad idea.

Found this company for $2.50 for a 20yd card for Crossstitch 14ct.
http://www.needlestack.com/WebStore/Thread/RG_Linen.html
Colors:
http://www.rainbowgallery.com/detail.cfm?ID=77

De
-----Original Message-----
Hmm,
Would a letter-writing campaign do the trick here? If everyone on this list
pestered DMC, plus everyone from all of the other lists that we each are on,
and so on and so on..
Might that make an impression?

Sheridan


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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: What I got for Christmas - costume related
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What I got:

Barnes and Noble gift card - can be used for costume books.....

2 pairs socks with cats on them  (the important costuming companion)

A vintage, hand painted kimono with silver cord couchwork outlining some of 
the designs.  There is documentation with it, but it came in a separate 
envelope and I haven't read it all yet.  It's not so "vintage" I can't wear 
it, but it will have to be as an open robe, as it's not quite large enough 
to close.  But, amazingly enough, it is long enough to brush the tops of my 
feet (and I'm 5'11")!  It also has lovely long (almost to mid-calf) sleeves.

I also got stomach flu so have been spending a lot of the holiday in 
communion with "the throne".  Bummer!! :(

Happy Holidays to all!

Sandy

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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They do have a site for their wonderful books. Check google under
"Pastiche, Inc."

Arlys

On Sun, 26 Dec 2004 20:51:33 -0700 Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
writes:
> IIRC, they're working on one...
> --sue
> 
> Lauren Walker wrote:
> > But they do not seem to have an web site!
> > Lauren

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] DMC Linen
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They have a dyer who will do it, and who they trust to do a good job
(which is saying a lot right there--they have very high quality
standards).

Arlys

On Sun, 26 Dec 2004 15:34:56 EST AnnBWass@aol.com writes:
>  
> In a message dated 12/26/2004 3:14:14 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
> cley@juno.com writes:
> 
> They  were only able to get it in ivory, cream, and beige,
> and have a local dyer  who will be dyeing it for them for folks who 
> want
> other colors. This will  all happen in the next few months. 
> 
> 
> 
> Considering how hard it is to dye linen, it would be MUCH more 
> satisfactory  
> to get it factory dyed.  Sounds like something else to get friends 
> to look  
> out for when they go to Europe--would certainly be lightweight to 
> carry  home.
>  
> Ann Wass
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 

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Baltimore County is in Maryland.
 
Kathy Norvell
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On Sun, 26 Dec 2004 12:45:21 -0800 Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
writes:
> 
> I'm surprised no one has yet started the annual topic of "What 
> costume-related gifts did you get for Christmas/Hanukkah/the 
> Solstice?"  
> I always find it interesting.

I got a gift certificate for Fabric Depot--a huge and wonderful store in
Portland, OR, so i am doing the happy dance! 8)

Arlys
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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> > I'm surprised no one has yet started the annual topic of "What
> > costume-related gifts did you get for Christmas/Hanukkah/the
> > Solstice?"
> > I always find it interesting.
>
>I got a gift certificate for Fabric Depot--a huge and wonderful store in
>Portland, OR, so i am doing the happy dance! 8)

I got a book of photos of English-occupied India, from the 1860s to the 
1890s, and an ikat scarf from Bali by way of my daughter's friend who 
actually went there and bought it.  I also got hundreds and hundreds of 
calories, mostly in my stocking, which I'm refusing to eat but am passing 
along to various parties.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
             ////-@@\\\
            ((((   7 )))
             (((  <> ))))
                )   ((((((
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Date: Mon, 27 Dec 2004 19:54:43 +1100
Subject: Re: [other] Re: [h-cost] ris 'allemande now dance steps
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Hi, just caught up with this thread - adding another confusing slant - 
my husband is a dance historian and teacher  - had a lengthy answer to 
the allemande question which I've promptly forgotten - something about 
it being a left turn or something and lots more - but I found this 
reference to a different allemande on our website - 
http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/terms.htm

back allemande   Facing opposite directions, place left arms behind own 
back, link right arms and with right hand take partner's left hand 
behind their back.


Warmest Regards,
Aylwen Garden

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From: "Wicked Frau" <wickedfrau@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Costume-Related Holiday Gifts
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 2004 03:48:01 -0700
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I got lots of cool costume related things!  I think my most favorite was the
rolling magnet that my hubby gave me.  It is about a foot long and sits on
wheels above the ground about an inch.  It rolls along my floor and picks up
all the pins I drop (hundreds!). 

Then he gave me a new magnifying light/glass to do my small hand
work....love that too.  I got three great new books; one on bobbin lace
patterns and another on medieval textiles.  I also got a new stump work book
and fancy threads to go with.  

Santa was very good to me this year...his list must have been wrong....:)

Sg


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume-Related Holiday Gifts
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It was a gift we bought ourselves--the 1957 Rodgers and Hammerstein  
"Cinderella" made for CBS TV (thus, in black and white) with Julie Andrews in  the 
title role.  I had no idea that the costumes were early 19th  century 
Regency-style--highly stylized, of course--with some 1820s style  hairstyles and the 
stepsisters' and stepmother's initial hats more lamp  shade inspired.  And the 
fairy godmother's ball outfit was strictly 1950s  haute couture.  
 
But, as we looked at the extra material, many of the publicity  photos showed 
Julie Andrews in a more 1950s silhouette princess dress--natural  waist, 
puffed sleeves and poufy skirt that looked like layers and layers of  tulle.  This 
dress, though, was nowhere to be seen in the  finished product. 
 
Some of you may have seen this on PBS last week, but we missed it.   And I 
was glad to see the supplementary stuff.  It also included Rodgers  and 
Hammerstein's appearance on the Ed Sullivan Show: Rodgers conducted the  orchestra 
while Hammerstein recited the words to "Ten Minutes Ago."  The  show pre-empted 
Ed Sullivan the next week--had to be done on Sunday as it was  live, and Julie 
Andrews was appearing on Broadway in "My Fair Lady" at the  time.
 
Ann Wass
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From: "Angharad ver' Reynulf" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume-Related Holiday Gifts
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I got lots of costume-related gifts this year too.

Shears appropriate for me to carry for my 14th Cen.
Welsh persona, and a box for her dowry.

2 yards of a purple and gold chinese silk brocade

a starter set of Kreinik silk threads

5 yards of 1/8" black satin ribbon (had been holding
the brocade around my new book: _Brother Cadfael's
Garden_)

a $30 <a  style='text-decoration: none; border-bottom:
3px double;'
href="http://www.serverlogic3.com/lm/rtl3.asp?si=5&k=gift%20certificate"
onmouseover="window.status='gift certificate'; return
true;" onmouseout="window.status=''; return
true;">gift certificate</a> for Jo-Anns (from my boss)

a boxed set of books about historical women

out of 10 - gifts, not a bad proportion!

my friends and family know what I like!

Thankfully,

Angharad / Wolfcat


		
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Dec 27 09:57:38 2004
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From: "Kate Pinner" <pinner@mccc.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume-Related Holiday Gifts
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 2004 09:51:22 -0500
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My husband bought me the Singer XL-6000 sewing and embroidery machine! If I 
hadn't been sitting on the floor when I opened it, I would have dropped. It 
will take me a while to get thru all the stuff it says it can do.
Kate
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AnnBWass@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, December 27, 2004 7:25 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume-Related Holiday Gifts


> It was a gift we bought ourselves--the 1957 Rodgers and Hammerstein
> "Cinderella" made for CBS TV (thus, in black and white) with Julie Andrews 
> in  the
> title role.  I had no idea that the costumes were early 19th  century
> Regency-style--highly stylized, of course--with some 1820s style 
> hairstyles and the
> stepsisters' and stepmother's initial hats more lamp  shade inspired.  And 
> the
> fairy godmother's ball outfit was strictly 1950s  haute couture.
>
> But, as we looked at the extra material, many of the publicity  photos 
> showed
> Julie Andrews in a more 1950s silhouette princess dress--natural  waist,
> puffed sleeves and poufy skirt that looked like layers and layers of 
> tulle.  This
> dress, though, was nowhere to be seen in the  finished product.
>
> Some of you may have seen this on PBS last week, but we missed it.   And I
> was glad to see the supplementary stuff.  It also included Rodgers  and
> Hammerstein's appearance on the Ed Sullivan Show: Rodgers conducted the 
> orchestra
> while Hammerstein recited the words to "Ten Minutes Ago."  The  show 
> pre-empted
> Ed Sullivan the next week--had to be done on Sunday as it was  live, and 
> Julie
> Andrews was appearing on Broadway in "My Fair Lady" at the  time.
>
> Ann Wass
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> 


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Dec 27 10:03:17 2004
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Date: Mon, 27 Dec 2004 10:02:34 -0500
From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Somewhat OT: Jewel vendor tsunami aid
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My favorite vendor of semi-precious stone beads, http://www.thaigem.com, is
donating 10% of the purchase price of all goods sold between now and January
2 to the Thai Red Cross to help victims of the recent tsunami. If you were
planning to buy any gemstone beads, pearls, etc. for embellishments in the
near-term, please at least give a look at their selections. They also sell
cut stones for jewelry-making, and have a custom jewelry service. I have
only purchased semi-precious  beads from them, but all of my purchases have
been of really good quality, the prices fair, and their customer service is
pretty good, too. 
Lauren


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Date: Mon, 27 Dec 2004 16:22:09 +0100
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Subject: [h-cost] linnen for 18th century chemise
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Hi,
I dont seem to be able to get any fine white linnen here, so i wondered 
where i could purchase online a fine linnen for a chemise.
I would prefer UK supplier as i dont want to pay extra taxes for USA import.
Thanks

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: M Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu>
Subject: [h-cost] Costume-Related Holiday Gifts
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Hmmmm...
Costume related... zip.  I did get some clothing - and a good pair of 
winter boots.  And my fiber friends all seemed to think I needed placemats 
this year ; > ??   Not complaining though... you should see some of these 
weaves - genuinely beautiful work.  I'm so impressed by their talents.

Other than working every day,  and a week alone with the animals, since the 
S.O. is in NC... things are quiet -  but I am getting some knitting done on 
the relic purse  (23+ stitches to the inch, OY)  and I am slowly digesting 
"Woven Into the Earth" again - after my first read through.  Have some 
comments on that slowly forming in the back of my mind.

Definately a minimalist Holiday... but a good one.
Peace to you all.
Bridgette


Mari Stewart
Webmaster
College of Veterinary Medicine
Cornell University


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume-Related Holiday Gifts
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Dear Kate,
OOOOOOOOOOOOOOhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

Congratulations with this.
May i tell you, that digital world is wonderfull, you surely will be able to 
do a lot of beutifull things with the right threads and such.
Whem i was last at a ball in Bath, England, a frenchman had created such 
wonderfull embroideries on costumes with sewing machine. The thread has to 
be rayon or the like, but i really thoaght it was wonderfull.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kate Pinner" <pinner@mccc.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, December 27, 2004 3:51 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume-Related Holiday Gifts


> My husband bought me the Singer XL-6000 sewing and embroidery machine! If 
> I hadn't been sitting on the floor when I opened it, I would have dropped. 
> It will take me a while to get thru all the stuff it says it can do.
> Kate
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <AnnBWass@aol.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Monday, December 27, 2004 7:25 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume-Related Holiday Gifts
>
>
>> It was a gift we bought ourselves--the 1957 Rodgers and Hammerstein
>> "Cinderella" made for CBS TV (thus, in black and white) with Julie 
>> Andrews in  the
>> title role.  I had no idea that the costumes were early 19th  century
>> Regency-style--highly stylized, of course--with some 1820s style 
>> hairstyles and the
>> stepsisters' and stepmother's initial hats more lamp  shade inspired. 
>> And the
>> fairy godmother's ball outfit was strictly 1950s  haute couture.
>>
>> But, as we looked at the extra material, many of the publicity  photos 
>> showed
>> Julie Andrews in a more 1950s silhouette princess dress--natural  waist,
>> puffed sleeves and poufy skirt that looked like layers and layers of 
>> tulle.  This
>> dress, though, was nowhere to be seen in the  finished product.
>>
>> Some of you may have seen this on PBS last week, but we missed it.   And 
>> I
>> was glad to see the supplementary stuff.  It also included Rodgers  and
>> Hammerstein's appearance on the Ed Sullivan Show: Rodgers conducted the 
>> orchestra
>> while Hammerstein recited the words to "Ten Minutes Ago."  The  show 
>> pre-empted
>> Ed Sullivan the next week--had to be done on Sunday as it was  live, and 
>> Julie
>> Andrews was appearing on Broadway in "My Fair Lady" at the  time.
>>
>> Ann Wass
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] colours
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I want to create my absolutely finest and most beautifull jacket and 
waistcoat on pale blue silk duchesse satin.
This fabric costed me a fortune, i allready made a mistake with the chenille 
thread.
This time i want to do my outmost and absolutely final work for myself.
The colour of the satin is a pale blue like you see in the skye in a hot 
summers day.
What colours do yuu think is a must for this?
I must regreat that i am no painter and i would really apreciate any hints.
What i would like for the "head flowers is peach coulor"
And could i add a darker blue to it?
Surely there must be some of yuu out there who are bored........
Bjarne


Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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    Oooooo, I can hardly wait for the pictures!
I think you can use a darker blue, but I would match it very carefully to be 
the same "tone" as your sky blue - you know, the same amount of yellow or 
grey to the color.... are you going to use different shades of the peach as 
well?  And of course you'll need some greens for leaves....<G>

Liadain
There Is No Such Thing As Too Colorful

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, December 27, 2004 10:32 AM
Subject: [h-cost] colours


>I want to create my absolutely finest and most beautifull jacket and 
>waistcoat on pale blue silk duchesse satin.
> This fabric costed me a fortune, i allready made a mistake with the 
> chenille thread.
> This time i want to do my outmost and absolutely final work for myself.
> The colour of the satin is a pale blue like you see in the skye in a hot 
> summers day.
> What colours do yuu think is a must for this?
> I must regreat that i am no painter and i would really apreciate any 
> hints.
> What i would like for the "head flowers is peach coulor"
> And could i add a darker blue to it?
> Surely there must be some of yuu out there who are bored........
> Bjarne
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] colours
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Liadain
This must be because you want the fabric to be equal as the embroidery?
I dont want this..
I just want to make a beautifull embroidery on top ot this, no matters what 
the light blue is.............

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Frank Thallas" <hardcorps@earthlink.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, December 27, 2004 7:20 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] colours


>    Oooooo, I can hardly wait for the pictures!
> I think you can use a darker blue, but I would match it very carefully to 
> be the same "tone" as your sky blue - you know, the same amount of yellow 
> or grey to the color.... are you going to use different shades of the 
> peach as well?  And of course you'll need some greens for leaves....<G>
>
> Liadain
> There Is No Such Thing As Too Colorful


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In a message dated 12/27/2004 1:36:41 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

This  must be because you want the fabric to be equal as the embroidery?
I dont  want this..
I just want to make a beautifull embroidery on top ot this, no  matters what 
the light blue is.............


Bjarne, I think she is trying to make the point that some shades of blue  
thread would not look as well as others.  Even though you would be using a  
darker blue than the color of your silk fabric, it should be in the same "color  
family" as the fabric, or at least harmonize and not clash.
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] colours
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     I agree with Liadain that you do need to be careful with the tone of
the blue.  A shade that's too far off may clash with the base fabric.

     I've seen some blue items embroidered in white and silver, which is
very nice.  I would suggest looking for light blue items in costume
collections and portraits, and see what colors are used for
embroidery there.  You could go with all pastel (light) colors, or
shades of blue, white and silver, or a number of different bright
colors - what is typical of the era?

     -Carol


> Liadain
> This must be because you want the fabric to be equal as the embroidery?
> I dont want this..
> I just want to make a beautifull embroidery on top ot this, no matters
> what
> the light blue is.............
>
> Bjarne
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Frank Thallas" <hardcorps@earthlink.net>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Monday, December 27, 2004 7:20 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] colours
>
>
>>    Oooooo, I can hardly wait for the pictures!
>> I think you can use a darker blue, but I would match it very carefully
>> to
>> be the same "tone" as your sky blue - you know, the same amount of
>> yellow
>> or grey to the color.... are you going to use different shades of the
>> peach as well?  And of course you'll need some greens for leaves....<G>
>>
>> Liadain
>> There Is No Such Thing As Too Colorful

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Date: Mon, 27 Dec 2004 13:20:35 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Doris J Nash <djnash@iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume-Related Holiday Gifts
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Fran,
Could you perhaps store your scissors in one compartment of the case, your 
tracing/ponce wheels, etc. in another, and something else in the third?  Is 
the only opening in the top?  That might be problematic, I guess.  Hmm, 
yarn skeins?  Heck, just put silk flowers in it & display it!   :-)

Doris, who got socks, DVDs, pans, and a Crock pot for Christmas.


At 02:45 PM 12/26/2004, you wrote:

>I'm surprised no one has yet started the annual topic of "What 
>costume-related gifts did you get for Christmas/Hanukkah/the Solstice?"
>I always find it interesting.
>
>I don't usually get a lot of them myself, as I always buy my own fabric, 
>patterns, and tools, and usually my own books.  I did get  _Woven into the 
>Earth_ (except it didn't arrive in time), two copies of a circa 1930 
>sewing booklet, a plastic chest of drawers sort of thing for sewing 
>hardware and notions, and a reproduction Edwardian pendant, white gold and 
>(small) diamond bow with an aquamarine drop suspended from it.
>I also got a very fancy wooden case. It has a carved frame with an Art 
>Nouveau poster (cafe table with seated woman) decoupaged onto the front 
>and back, and is fully lined with a thin brown felt. It looks like 
>something the Victorian Trading Company would sell.  However, I don't know 
>what to do with it.  It is apparently intended for carrying and/or storing 
>three bottles of wine, having three slots of appropriate size for 
>same.  The problem is, I hardly ever drink anything, there are no 
>occasions on which I'd carry three bottles of wine around, and I don't 
>think you're supposed to store wine upright.  I'm trying to think of some 
>sewing stuff I could store in it.  Unfortunately the dividers between the 
>wine bottle slots are firmly glued in.
>
>Fran
>Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
>http://www.lavoltapress.com
>
>
>
>
>>
>_______________________________________________
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++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Doris J. Nash
Costume Shop Supervisor
ISU Theatre

All the world's a stage and most of us are desperately unrehearsed.
Sean O'Casey

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     Knitting needles might fit, too.  A great excuse to take up knitting
if you don't already.  :-)     -Carol

> Fran,
> Could you perhaps store your scissors in one compartment of the case, your
> tracing/ponce wheels, etc. in another, and something else in the third?
> Is
> the only opening in the top?  That might be problematic, I guess.  Hmm,
> yarn skeins?  Heck, just put silk flowers in it & display it!   :-)
>
> Doris, who got socks, DVDs, pans, and a Crock pot for Christmas.
>
>
> At 02:45 PM 12/26/2004, you wrote:
...
>>I also got a very fancy wooden case. It has a carved frame with an Art
>>Nouveau poster (cafe table with seated woman) decoupaged onto the front
>>and back, and is fully lined with a thin brown felt. It looks like
>>something the Victorian Trading Company would sell.  However, I don't
>> know
>>what to do with it.  It is apparently intended for carrying and/or
>> storing
>>three bottles of wine, having three slots of appropriate size for
>>same.  The problem is, I hardly ever drink anything, there are no
>>occasions on which I'd carry three bottles of wine around, and I don't
>>think you're supposed to store wine upright.  I'm trying to think of some
>>sewing stuff I could store in it.  Unfortunately the dividers between the
>>wine bottle slots are firmly glued in.
>>
>>Fran
>>Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
>>http://www.lavoltapress.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume-Related Holiday Gifts
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It's actually not a bad setup for skeins or balls of yarn, but I haven't 
crocheted or done weaving in a long time.  I pried the dividers out, 
after some persistence, and so far have put some T-shirts in the case to 
see how that works. 

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Doris J Nash wrote:

> Fran,
> Could you perhaps store your scissors in one compartment of the case, 
> your tracing/ponce wheels, etc. in another, and something else in the 
> third?  Is the only opening in the top?  That might be problematic, I 
> guess.  Hmm, yarn skeins?  Heck, just put silk flowers in it & display 
> it!   :-)
>
>
>
>
>
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] New movie- Merchant of Venice
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Has anyone heard anything about this movie, either "yea or nay"?  Al Pacino does Shakespeare! (And
not too shabbily, either! Who knew Shylock had a New York accent!) Visually it looks decadent, and
it has good solid actors in it. 

http://movies.yahoo.com/movies/feature/williamshakespearesthemerchantofvenice.html

It's due out Dec 29th.

Pax,
::Linda::


" Now Christmas comes, 'tis fit that we 
should feast and sing, and merry be:
Keep open house, let fidlers play. 
A fig for cold, sing care away; 
And may they who thereat repine, 
On brown bread and on small beer dine."

~from the 1766 Virginia Almanack



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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] colours
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http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/blue

In this waistcoat (wowen) there are many vivid colours wich are not the same 
shade as the blue.
What was it you were advising?

Only i see reds, purples and blues used.......

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
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IMO, The embroidery on the blue is beautiful but I can see that for some
reason it doesn't quite balance with the fabric. Satin stitched or padded
stitched embroidery might be better suited for the fabric's texture.
I would not go too dark with the colors as I believe you want the jacket as
a whole to be stunning and not have your beautiful embroidery jump out at
the viewer from across the room so that they only see the embroidery.
Peach would be wonderful with this blue.
As for other colors, it would all depend on the mood or affect I was trying
for. Do I want a Spring feeling that carries into the summer or a Winter
frost or Fall or neutral?
Now this fabric looks like it wants light to medium shades of embroidery
with gold metallic accents.
Peach, with maybe some salmon or/and dusty rose, with accents of some blues
and lavenders. Gold rochelle beads or tiny pearls.

De
PS. I am recovering for being sick so take these suggestions and comments
with a little more then a grain of salt.
-----Original Message-----
I want to create my absolutely finest and most beautifull jacket and
waistcoat on pale blue silk duchesse satin.
This fabric costed me a fortune, i allready made a mistake with the chenille
thread.
This time i want to do my outmost and absolutely final work for myself.
The colour of the satin is a pale blue like you see in the skye in a hot
summers day.
What colours do yuu think is a must for this?
I must regreat that i am no painter and i would really apreciate any hints.
What i would like for the "head flowers is peach coulor"
And could i add a darker blue to it?
Surely there must be some of yuu out there who are bored........
Bjarne


Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/




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   Nah, I must not have expressed it well -the darker blue will be beautiful 
as long as it doesn't clash! - I've had this happen to me, and it's very 
disappointing!  A beautiful deep royal blue, maybe, with the peach(es), and 
some soft mossy greens?
   Okay, now I want to embroider something, and I have too many projects 
going already!!!

Liadain
off to poke through the stash

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, December 27, 2004 11:35 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] colours


> Liadain
> This must be because you want the fabric to be equal as the embroidery?
> I dont want this..
> I just want to make a beautifull embroidery on top ot this, no matters 
> what the light blue is.............
>
> Bjarne
> 


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  Thanks, Ann!  I think I'm not speaking English well today, and since I 
don't have another language I'm in real trouble......<GGGGGGGG>

Liadain
possibly experiencing "Senior Moments"..

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AnnBWass@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, December 27, 2004 11:40 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] colours

> Bjarne, I think she is trying to make the point that some shades of blue
> thread would not look as well as others.  Even though you would be using a
> darker blue than the color of your silk fabric, it should be in the same 
> "color
> family" as the fabric, or at least harmonize and not clash.
>
> Ann Wass
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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I believe what was being said was the you would want complimentary shades of
blue. Certain blues would detract or clash with your light blue and
therefore you would not wish to select them.
Oddly enough, I have never seen this woven material before but I was seeing
something like this when I made my suggestions and comments in a prior email
though not as elaborate.

De
-----Original Message-----
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/blue

In this waistcoat (wowen) there are many vivid colours wich are not the same
shade as the blue.
What was it you were advising?

Only i see reds, purples and blues used.......

Bjarne

Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/




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  Oh, that's very pretty!
   I looooove many many colors used together!  I was just thinking about the 
"value" of the blue - there are some that
have lots of green in them - like peacock - and some with lots of grey - 
like navy.  Sometimes "green/blues" and
grey/blues" don't go together well at all. <G>  For some reason, blues seem 
to clash "louder" than many other colors.......

Liadain
probably not explaining herself well, sigh...

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, December 27, 2004 1:34 PM
Subject: [h-cost] colours


> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/blue
>
> In this waistcoat (wowen) there are many vivid colours wich are not the 
> same shade as the blue.
> What was it you were advising?
>
> Only i see reds, purples and blues used.......
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume-Related Holiday Gifts
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Lavolta Press wrote:
> 
> I'm surprised no one has yet started the annual topic of "What 
> costume-related gifts did you get for Christmas/Hanukkah/the Solstice?"  
> I always find it interesting.

My friends and my husband know what I like, my family sends money or 
gift cards because they live far out of state and it's just easier that 
way.

I got a lovely faux pashmina scarf, it's huge and fringed and will be 
nice with several costumes or for a fancy dinner out. A copy of 
'Historic Colonial French Dress' and two issues of Japanese Gothic 
Lolita magazine (I love the creative shapes that this style generates). 
Also a Historic Fashions calendar.




Dawn


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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] linnen for 18th century chemise
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 2004 15:42:51 -0700
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Have you looked at this place?
http://www.thelinenhouse.com/EN/FRAMESET.asp?VS=TLHO&LA=ENGL

I have all their sample cards if you would like to look at them.   They are
relatively expensive, but I've seen nothing like them over here.

Sg

>-----Original Message-----
>From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
>Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
>Sent: Monday, December 27, 2004 8:22 AM
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] linnen for 18th century chemise
>
>Hi,
>I dont seem to be able to get any fine white linnen here, so i wondered
>where i could purchase online a fine linnen for a chemise.
>I would prefer UK supplier as i dont want to pay extra taxes for USA
import.
>Thanks
>
>Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Dec 27 18:41:58 2004
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume-Related Holiday Gifts
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	I got 11yds of beautiful blue twill wool for a GFD (and my poor mother 
mailed it still on the bolt!), an exhibit book of Gerard ter Borch, gift 
cards for Joann Fabrics, and some costume swatch cards for Lord of the 
Rings costumes. And way too much chocolate and other calories.

	-Judy Mitchell
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Dec 27 18:49:15 2004
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] colours
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Dear Bjarne--

Color is one of the most difficult things to talk about without having actual THINGS to look at. 

But I'll bet you still have some of those wonderful threads you dyed.

I'd suggest that you try what I usually wind up doing when I have to make a color decision: use the dyed threads as samples, and lay them side-by-side on the blue fabric. See what combinations YOU like best. Using samples instead of the colors one imagines from words, sometimes I am surprised by gorgeous combinations I would not have thought of. (I remember especially an aubergine overgown that I put with a slightly greenish silver underskirt. I just tried the combination because I was trying every combination of fabrics I had. It was breathtaking, the best costume on the stage! Part of the effect was the combination of colors, and part was the combination of the fabric textures, which of course affected the way the colors read.)

If you are inclined to use peach for the top petals of the flowers, lay some peach thread on the fabric and then try other threads in combination with it and against the blue background.

The work you do proves to all of us, even if you aren't sure yourself, that you have great taste.

Trust your judgment.

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

 -----Original Message-----
From: Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
Sent: Dec 27, 2004 3:34 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] colours

http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/blue

In this waistcoat (wowen) there are many vivid colours wich are not the same 
shade as the blue.
What was it you were advising?

Only i see reds, purples and blues used.......

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Dec 27 19:45:11 2004
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From: "Wicked Frau" <wickedfrau@earthlink.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] New movie-Kingdom of Heaven (Was  Merchant of Venice)
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 2004 17:43:49 -0700
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Check this one out too.

http://movies.yahoo.com/movies/feature/kingdomofheaven.html

.
>
>http://movies.yahoo.com/movies/feature/williamshakespearesthemerchantofveni
ce.h
>tml
>

[Sg] 
>


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Sorry I can't help, Bjarne, but my source for handkerchief linen is 
located in the U.S....
--sue

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> Hi,
> I dont seem to be able to get any fine white linnen here, so i wondered 
> where i could purchase online a fine linnen for a chemise.
> I would prefer UK supplier as i dont want to pay extra taxes for USA 
> import.
> Thanks
> 
> Bjarne

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The reviews have said that it is one of the best movies of the year.  Ebert 
said it will be nominated for many Oscars.

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com 


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Crocheting is like riding a bike.  Once you learn, you never forget how.  In 
a day, you will be zipping along.

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com 


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I must be severely challenged.  Everything I ever tried to crochet turned
into a pointy hat!

>-----Original Message-----

>Crocheting is like riding a bike.  Once you learn, you never forget how.
In
>a day, you will be zipping along.
>

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Crochet Learning Disabilities
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I have a hard time following crochet directions.  I think it is because I am 
left handed.  I have been making scarves for the past year... I made up my 
own pattern.  Now everyone wants one.  I keep trying out different types of 
yarns to keep me from being bored. Crocheting also is good for strengthening 
my hands.  I did find out that there is a knit/crochet shop nearby.  Maybe 
they have someone who can teach me to follow the directions correctly.  I 
know all the abbreviations and the stitches, but I like you, try to make 
something from a pattern and it doesn't turn out correctly.

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com 


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An excellent suggestion, but try to do this in natural light, as artificial 
light will skew the color perceptions.  If you don't have access to 
color-balanced lighting, do it outdoors or near a large window on a sunny 
day (but not in direct sunlight - too much glare!!).  Incandescent lighting 
can add yellow tones, and fluorescent can be either blue or yellow, 
depending on the type of bulb.

Just my 2 kr. (is that right, Bjarne?)

Sandy

>From: ruthanneb@mindspring.com
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] colours
>
>Dear Bjarne--
>
>Color is one of the most difficult things to talk about without having 
>actual THINGS to look at.
>
>But I'll bet you still have some of those wonderful threads you dyed.
>
>I'd suggest that you try what I usually wind up doing when I have to make 
>a color decision: use the dyed threads as samples, and lay them 
>side-by-side on the blue fabric. See what combinations YOU like best.
>If you are inclined to use peach for the top petals of the flowers, lay 
>some peach thread on the fabric and then try other threads in combination 
>with it and against the blue background.
>
>--Ruth Anne Baumgartner

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] New movie- Merchant of Venice
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2004 08:53:27 -0500
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Hrumph! If that's true, then why oh why is it only in limited release? Around here that usually
means it hits the one "artsy" theatre downtown, for only a couple of days, usually mid-week.
Fingers crossed that it hits the majority of the regular theatres soon. 

Thanks!

::Linda::


 -----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
Sent: Monday, December 27, 2004 10:34 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New movie- Merchant of Venice

The reviews have said that it is one of the best movies of the year.  Ebert 
said it will be nominated for many Oscars.

Penny Ladnier


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Have you thought of looking for left-handed instructions? I know that 
they're out there, as I've got some.  (I don't mean for individual 
patterns, but basic how-to's.)
--sue (also left-handed, but concentrating on knitting and spinning 
these days....and costumes, too, of course ;o)

Penny Ladnier wrote:

> I have a hard time following crochet directions.  I think it is because 
> I am left handed.  I have been making scarves for the past year... I 
> made up my own pattern.  Now everyone wants one.  I keep trying out 
> different types of yarns to keep me from being bored. Crocheting also is 
> good for strengthening my hands.  I did find out that there is a 
> knit/crochet shop nearby.  Maybe they have someone who can teach me to 
> follow the directions correctly.  I know all the abbreviations and the 
> stitches, but I like you, try to make something from a pattern and it 
> doesn't turn out correctly.


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Pierre & Sandy Pettinger wrote:

> An excellent suggestion, but try to do this in natural light, as 
> artificial light will skew the color perceptions. 

I'd suggest a mix of lighting. Have your indoor lighting on and move a 
lamp near the window. Chances are that you will be wearing your fancy 
dress indoors under artificial light and you will want the colors to 
look good under those conditions, too.

A friend of mine paints, and while natural light is good, his work is 
displayed and judged under artificial light, so he always works under 
both sources to ensure that his colors look good in both lights.



Dawn



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New movie- Merchant of Venice
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
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Charlie Rose had Al Pacino, the director and Jeremy Irons on his program
last night and I got to see snippets of it. It looks wonderful!!! The
director (sorry, I've blanked on his name) said that Venice was dark so it
carried through the colors of the whole movie. It was marvelous to watch
"accepted" actors talk about Shakespeare as being one of the best
storytellers in the history of the world. Pacino talking about his character
and why he does what he does was insightful. I know that Charlie Rose plays
here a few times each program; I hope that you get to see the show.

The director said that it opened in general release on Dec 29th. Hopefully,
Linda, you'll have the opportunity to see it a couple of times - once for
the story and once for the costumes, not just on a Tuesday afternoon.

LynnD


On 12/28/04 5:53 AM, "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net> wrote:

> Hrumph! If that's true, then why oh why is it only in limited release? Around
> here that usually
> means it hits the one "artsy" theatre downtown, for only a couple of days,
> usually mid-week.
> Fingers crossed that it hits the majority of the regular theatres soon.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> ::Linda::
> 
> 
>  -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
> Sent: Monday, December 27, 2004 10:34 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] New movie- Merchant of Venice
> 
> The reviews have said that it is one of the best movies of the year.  Ebert
> said it will be nominated for many Oscars.
> 
> Penny Ladnier
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume




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Subject: RE: [h-cost] New movie-Kingdom of Heaven (Was  Merchant of Venice)
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
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> Check this one out too.
>
> http://movies.yahoo.com/movies/feature/kingdomofheaven.html
>

Looks and sounds super yummy!  Orlando Bloom as a heroic knight?  Be
still, my heart!!

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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LynnD wrote:
It was marvelous to watch
> "accepted" actors talk about Shakespeare as being one of the best
> storytellers in the history of the world.

If you can, try to catch Pacino's "Looking for Richard" on cable or DVD. 
It's a discussion and partial performance of Richard III, featuring some of 
the best actors in the US and the UK, filmed about the same time he did the 
role at the Public in NYC.  The discussions of the play in particular and 
Shakespeare in general are interspersed with scenes from Richard III in 
rehearsal and staged at the Cloisters.  (The costumes are generic rental 
house.  Don't let that get in the way.)
           -Helen/Aidan


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From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] New movie- Merchant of Venice
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2004 13:25:29 -0500
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Thanks Lynn, I'll go see if I can catch that _Charlie Rose_ show. I usually like his interviews and
his style.  
I got the "Limited Release" info from the website, so I really hope that it is wrong and what you
heard is correct.  Yes, movies like this do require multiple viewings! I'm lucky to be off during
the day so 11am matinees are just the thing.  ;o)

Thanks again-

::Linda::

 "Acorns were good till bread was found."
Francis Bacon, English philosopher, statesman (1561-1626)

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of Lynn Downward
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New movie- Merchant of Venice

Charlie Rose had Al Pacino, the director and Jeremy Irons on his program
last night and I got to see snippets of it. It looks wonderful!!! The
director (sorry, I've blanked on his name) said that Venice was dark so it
carried through the colors of the whole movie. It was marvelous to watch
"accepted" actors talk about Shakespeare as being one of the best
storytellers in the history of the world. Pacino talking about his character
and why he does what he does was insightful. I know that Charlie Rose plays
here a few times each program; I hope that you get to see the show.

The director said that it opened in general release on Dec 29th. Hopefully,
Linda, you'll have the opportunity to see it a couple of times - once for
the story and once for the costumes, not just on a Tuesday afternoon.

LynnD
me


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New movie- Merchant of Venice
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Linda,

Several films are in limited release at this time.  Finding Neverland was 
only released to 500 something theaters.  Phantom of the Opera is also in 
limited release.  They are showing at normal times here in Richmond, VA at 
some of the most popular movie houses.  I don't know the reasoning behind 
the limited release dates.  It used to mean that the film was shown for 
certain cities and then a mass release date was set.  My son saw Phantom in 
England before he came home on Dec. 16.  The film wasn't released in the 
U.S. until Dec. 22.  As much as it cost to make Phantom, I can't imagine it 
only showing at 500 something theaters in the U.S.  Merchant was also 
released in England before the U.S.

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume related christmas gifts
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I got as a combination Holiday/Birthday gift a Canon Power shot digital 
camera with which I can record and post my costuming treasures? sorta 
related.

Bjarne, when in January do you turn 50? I will log that milestone on January 
3 (in a cozy deluxe hotel room in Monterey, where my husband guarantees me 
the lighting will take ten years off -- ha!)

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design

"Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:
be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,
and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:
be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
W. Shakespeare

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 26, 2004 3:38 PM
Subject: [h-cost] costume related christmas gifts


> Hi,
> I got (as a birthdaygift also 50 in january) 30 back issues of the 
> australian embroidery magazine Inspirations..............
>
> Yum yum yum
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: [h-cost] Release dates, was Merchant of Venice
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There is a method to the madness, especially in December.
Movies released in December are eligible for the upcoming Academy Awards and 
year-end releases have an edge over earlier releases, since they are fresher 
in the voters' minds.  The movie only needs to be in a couple of theatres by 
31 Dec to be considered.
Also, since the theatres are clogged with holiday blockbusters, a wider 
release just isn't possible.  The studios are loathe to give up the income 
from mass-market movies for "art films" with a more limited appeal.  The 
limited release gets them the prestige goal of Academy nominations, and the 
nominations usually guarantee them a better audience when they go into wider 
release.  But not always- some films never get a wide release.
And then serious, arty movies are usually saved for the winter, anyway, and 
have always been backloaded into the end of the year.
Even blockbusters like "Titanic" sometimes follow this release pattern- it 
opened in NYC and LA at Christmas, and went into limited release in January, 
followed by a massive release a couple of weeks later.
This, of course, doesn't help those of us who want to see them now.  At 
least we have DVD's from Netflix now; in the bad old days, if you missed it, 
you missed it.  While a big screen is better than a TV, at least we have 
that, since almost everything goes to DVD these days.
Happy New Years, everybody,
              -Helen/Aidan 


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [other] Re: [h-cost] ris 'allemande now dance steps
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Even more just catching up -   I've done medieval/renaissance dance and 
modern folk dance from all over, and allemande is a word that has so 
many different interpretations!  In Scottish dancing it's an 8-bar 
figure in couples dancing round the set - in American it's usually a 
turn with your partner - in renaissance it's a whole dance - the 
description below is a hold for a swing.  Some may be a corruption of "a 
la main", others are "this is what we think German dancing looks like" 
or "this is a German-style figure".  I think it would take a whole 
dissertation to find and analyse them all!

Jean



A & J Garden <garden@earthlydelights.com.au> wrote
>Hi, just caught up with this thread - adding another confusing slant - 
>my husband is a dance historian and teacher  - had a lengthy answer to 
>the allemande question which I've promptly forgotten - something about 
>it being a left turn or something and lots more - but I found this 
>reference to a different allemande on our website - 
>http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/terms.htm
>
>back allemande   Facing opposite directions, place left arms behind own 
>back, link right arms and with right hand take partner's left hand 
>behind their back.
>
>
>Warmest Regards,
>Aylwen Garden
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------
>~ custom made historical reproduction clothing ~
>http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/costume.htm
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] New movie- Merchant of Venice
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Or to make the list for 2004 Oscar awards?

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Linda Rice
Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 2004 7:53 AM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: RE: [h-cost] New movie- Merchant of Venice

Hrumph! If that's true, then why oh why is it only in limited release?
Around here that usually
means it hits the one "artsy" theatre downtown, for only a couple of days,
usually mid-week.
Fingers crossed that it hits the majority of the regular theatres soon. 

Thanks!

::Linda::


 -----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
Sent: Monday, December 27, 2004 10:34 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New movie- Merchant of Venice

The reviews have said that it is one of the best movies of the year.  Ebert 
said it will be nominated for many Oscars.

Penny Ladnier


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Hello all, is anyone familiar with the book _Gothic Fashions in Women's Dress_ (a.k.a. _Gothic Woman's Fashion_) by Olga Sronkova? I think the original title must be _Die Mode der Gotischen Frau_. Is it translated into English? The translation seems to have an English title, but half the references to the 1954 printing say the text is in French? Is it in both French and English or are there different 1954 printings by the same publisher?
	Thanks!
		-sunny

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From: Alex Doyle <garbaholic@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] book question
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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The copy that I've seen has English, and possibly other languages as
well.  That copy isn't mine, and is far away at the moment so I can't
check.  The pictures are worth it even if you can't read the text.

Alex
--- sunshine_buchler@agilent.com wrote:

> Hello all, is anyone familiar with the book _Gothic Fashions in
> Women's Dress_ (a.k.a. _Gothic Woman's Fashion_) by Olga Sronkova? I
> think the original title must be _Die Mode der Gotischen Frau_. Is it
> translated into English? The translation seems to have an English
> title, but half the references to the 1954 printing say the text is
> in French? Is it in both French and English or are there different
> 1954 printings by the same publisher?
> 	Thanks!
> 		-sunny
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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> 

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From: "Linda Rice" <vmaa2@cox.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] book question
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Hi Sunny-
I have this book (Yes, it's here someplace, I know it is!) My copy is in English. The illustrations
are wonderful, not the typical English/French stuff that you normally find. It's very
bohemian-eastern Europe in its focus, as it was originally printed in Czechoslovakia.  I see AddAll
has quite a few copies listed today- go to http://used.addall.com/  and type in Olga Sronkova. Keep
scrolling until you find the English versions.

Books and fabric, fabric and books.... Gawd but I love Christmastime!

Pax,
::Linda::

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of
sunshine_buchler@agilent.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 2004 6:09 PM

Hello all, is anyone familiar with the book _Gothic Fashions in Women's Dress_ (a.k.a. _Gothic
Woman's Fashion_) by Olga Sronkova? I think the original title must be _Die Mode der Gotischen
Frau_. Is it translated into English? The translation seems to have an English title, but half the
references to the 1954 printing say the text is in French? Is it in both French and English or are
there different 1954 printings by the same publisher?
	Thanks!		-sunny




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The original is in German, and I used to have access to a copy of the 
English translation many years ago.  Her other book has a French edition, so 
I wouldn't be surprised if this one did also.  It's got lots of pictures of 
the bath-house attendants of Prague from the bible of Wedlaw IV.  (Medieval 
Maxim, perhaps?)
             -Helen/Aidan 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New movie- Merchant of Venice
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In a message dated 12/28/2004 2:17:35 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
penny@costumegallery.com writes:

> Phantom of the Opera is also in 
> limited release. 

Thank God!
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Thanks for the info!
	-sunny 

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Thanks for the info!
	-sunny 

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The spring/summer catalog from Yale University Press came today and I thought some list members might like to know about a couple coming attractions.  Chanel is being published with the Met for an exhibit they'll have 5/7 - 8/7.  It looks lush with 150 color illustrations for $39.95.  Also in conjunction with the Met is Dangerous Liaisons: Fashion and Furniture in the Eighteenth Century .  This is coming out in April, only 80 pages, at $19.95.  

This has been a public service announcement, as both are too late in time for me to be selling.

Janet

Janet Davis
Castle Furnishings
www.medievalbookstore.com
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This time i want to do my outmost and absolutely final work for myself.
The colour of the satin is a pale blue like you see in the skye in a hot

summers day.
What colours do yuu think is a must for this?

>From your description, my mind immediately went to a sunset view on said
hot summer's day. The purples, golds, blues and such fading from the
pale blue sky would be just yummy!

Good luck with your project, and we expect PICTURES! ;)

Kate McClure

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Subject: [h-cost] Where to buy shoe lasts in the US?
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Anyone ever try to buy shoe lasts in the US?  The only place I can find so
far is the ShoeSchool which makes buying them rather obscure.

Thanks, Sg

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Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2004 00:13:52 -0600
From: Charlene Charette <perronnelle@earthlink.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] costuming & fancy dress in 1906
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I was browsing the Library of Congress online dance manuals and found 
this book published in 1906.  It gives costuming suggestions for 
masquerade balls.

<<http://memory.loc.gov/cgi-bin/query/r?ammem/musdibib:@field(NUMBER+@band(musdi+033))>>

--Charlene

-- 
Christmas:  A warm and cheery two-month festival that celebrates the joy 
of retail merchandise.  -- Bayan, Rick; The Cynic's Dictionary, 2002
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Subject: [h-cost] Change in performance dates for "A Suitable Gowne for her
	Majesty"-Jan 8th performance canceled!
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I am (again) sorry for the cross posts and re-posts.  I just want to make
sure that people know that the January 8th presentation at the 

 Palomino Library . Sat / Jan 8 / 2 to 3 PM-HAS BEEN CANCELED

 

The ONLY repeat performance will be the hour PRIOR to the Musica Dulce
performance at Mustang Library . Sat / Feb 5 / 2 to 3:30 PM (Auditorium).  



PLEASE RECHECK MY WEBSITE FOR UPDATES  AND CALL THE LIBRARY TO CONFIRM
TIMES.  

http://www.saragrace.net/3E_10_QEW_Event_Pics.html


Mustang Library Address:
10101 North 90th Street
Scottsdale, AZ 85258-4404
Phone 480-312-6061
A Map to Our Location
<http://www.mapquest.com/maps/map.adp?country=US&countryid=250&addtohistory=
&searchtab=address&searchtype=address&address=10101+N.+90th+Street&city=Scot
tsdale&state=AZ&zipcode=85258&search=++Search++> 

 

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Dec 30 11:54:20 2004
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Hi again,
Sorry for not responding, but i got a nasty cold here........
Anyway i want to thank you all for your fine advises, you are right, it is 
as if some colours dies and others lives up on the blue satin.
It is very tricky, and i must admit that colour is not my forse in any way. 
I have ben studying all the photos i have taken at the danish national 
museum, i just wished they were better, they should have ben taken with my 
digital camera, but i used the old one back then. There is one jacket /suit/ 
that i have noticed particularly it is embroidered on a pastel green 
background, and all the colours in the embroidery also are pastel colours.
I have desided for the design in the embroidery. I have stolen some of it 
from a book, and i have added a little of my own into it.
It has berries in it, i want to make some berries with french knots, if they 
are going to be blackberries or they should be raspberries i dont know yeat, 
they should be unripe, and therefore not entirely black or blue, but some 
green added.
Finally i also have added a border wich i resently learned to make in satin 
stitches, it will hold the whole design better i think.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/bouquetjacket
The bow and the border and the balls should be the same colour. I can see 
that i have to cut out a piece of the fabric for samplers..............
Thanks again for your advises all of you, and happy new year...........

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
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Oh, huzzah! My bookseller says the book is in! I can pick it up tonight! And
then a three-day weekend to confuse myself in it! Not that I've finished
_Woven Into The Earth_ yet either.  And now that I've FINALLY got the front
gores on my under-gown to my own satisfaction -- which really is thanks to
squinting at the pictures in _WitL_ where I finally got the idea of how they
are supposed to lay -- I can play with the long-delayed brown cashmere/wool
overgown.  I'm having dreams at night about garment-gores. Sigh.
Lauren

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Subject: [h-cost] costume related christmas gifts
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Hi Angela,
It is on january 13th. I wont celebrate it this day. I have always longed to 
have a picnic at my birdthday, so this year precisely 1/2 year later after 
13th of january i will ask my whole family and friends for a picnic in the 
"dyrehaven" wich is the old forrest north of Copenhagen where there are such 
lovely spots to have picnics. The forrest is full of deers that are used to 
people so they dont run away. You can also hire coaches there...
I pray the weather will be for it!

Hope you get a lovely time in Monterey :-)

Bjarne

I got as a combination Holiday/Birthday gift a Canon Power shot digital
camera with which I can record and post my costuming treasures? sorta
related.

Bjarne, when in January do you turn 50? I will log that milestone on January
3 (in a cozy deluxe hotel room in Monterey, where my husband guarantees me
the lighting will take ten years off -- ha!)

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design






Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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References: <BDF480E6.9279%lauren.walker@comcast.net><F35A1934-57E4-11D9-B82F-000393B11100@earthlydelights.com.au>
	<kxsrcODYNc0BJwgx@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [other] Re: [h-cost] ris 'allemande now dance steps
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2004 21:00:49 +0100
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Hi Jean,
The danse i am reffering to is described in the german book by Taubert. I 
baught this book many years ago with a LP record with all the danses in it. 
The gentleman has his right arm over the ladies head and the left arm holds 
her right arm.
I loved this danse, still do.............

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jean Waddie" <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 2004 9:34 PM
Subject: Re: [other] Re: [h-cost] ris 'allemande now dance steps


> Even more just catching up -   I've done medieval/renaissance dance and 
> modern folk dance from all over, and allemande is a word that has so many 
> different interpretations!  In Scottish dancing it's an 8-bar figure in 
> couples dancing round the set - in American it's usually a turn with your 
> partner - in renaissance it's a whole dance - the description below is a 
> hold for a swing.  Some may be a corruption of "a la main", others are 
> "this is what we think German dancing looks like" or "this is a 
> German-style figure".  I think it would take a whole dissertation to find 
> and analyse them all!
>
> Jean
>
>
>
> A & J Garden <garden@earthlydelights.com.au> wrote
>>Hi, just caught up with this thread - adding another confusing slant - my 
>>husband is a dance historian and teacher  - had a lengthy answer to the 
>>allemande question which I've promptly forgotten - something about it 
>>being a left turn or something and lots more - but I found this reference 
>>to a different allemande on our website - 
>>http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/terms.htm
>>
>>back allemande   Facing opposite directions, place left arms behind own 
>>back, link right arms and with right hand take partner's left hand behind 
>>their back.
>>
>>
>>Warmest Regards,
>>Aylwen Garden
>>
>>------------------------------------------------------------------
>>~ custom made historical reproduction clothing ~
>>http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/costume.htm
>>------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> -- 
> Jean Waddie
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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> 


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Dress in Anglo Saxon England
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I am not sure if this is the book but several LH Anglo Saxoners have said
that there is a book that is really bad on the information about AS stuff.
Documentation is weak.

De
Hoping that your book is not the book.

-----Original Message-----
Oh, huzzah! My bookseller says the book is in! I can pick it up tonight! And
then a three-day weekend to confuse myself in it! Not that I've finished
_Woven Into The Earth_ yet either.  And now that I've FINALLY got the front
gores on my under-gown to my own satisfaction -- which really is thanks to
squinting at the pictures in _WitL_ where I finally got the idea of how they
are supposed to lay -- I can play with the long-delayed brown cashmere/wool
overgown.  I'm having dreams at night about garment-gores. Sigh.
Lauren

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Greetings--

> I am not sure if this is the book but several LH Anglo Saxoners have said
> that there is a book that is really bad on the information about AS stuff.
> Documentation is weak.
>
> De
> Hoping that your book is not the book.

I'd be surprised.  The first edition of Owen-Crocker's book was highly
regarded, although not perfect, which is why the second edition happened.
I'm quite familiar with the first edition, and I would certainly not
categorize it as "really bad" or weak on documentation.  The Anglo-Saxon
living history folks I know are all looking forward to it.

Susan

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*snip*

http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/bouquetjacket
The bow and the border and the balls should be the same colour. I can
see that i have to cut out a piece of the fabric for
samplers..............
Thanks again for your advises all of you, and happy new year...........

Bjarne

Oooh, it will be marvelous, I'm sure! (No pressure . . . ;) Will you be
using any metallics on this? If you end up using pastels, likely not, as
they might overwhelm. But with darker tones, a little spark here and
there might be very pretty. Just my two groats worth.

Kate McClure 

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] colours
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2004 16:35:26 -0600
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If you use the floral bouquet pattern may I recommend that you color in (you
probably were going to do this) before committing to a border, balls, and
bows of the same colour? I think it might be a bit too asymmetrical.
Also, just a thought, the border could be inverted scallops so that the
balls are "floating" above their own pockets. The "balls"/roundels/spots
could be a bit smaller.
Or inverted scallops with drop shapes at the points of the border scallops
instead of the balls as a way of blending with the leaves of the bouquets.

De
(who has been sick for the past 3 wks, so can sympathize)

-----Original Message-----
Finally i also have added a border wich i resently learned to make in satin
stitches, it will hold the whole design better i think.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/bouquetjacket
The bow and the border and the balls should be the same colour. I can see
that i have to cut out a piece of the fabric for samplers..............
Thanks again for your advises all of you, and happy new year...........

Bjarne







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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dress in Anglo Saxon England
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pbhthtththhhhhh!
Sending you a big raspberry, 'cuz I got at *least* two weeks before mine 
arrive....
*sigh*
--sue, impatiently waiting.....

Lauren Walker wrote:
> Oh, huzzah! My bookseller says the book is in! I can pick it up tonight! And
> then a three-day weekend to confuse myself in it! Not that I've finished
> _Woven Into The Earth_ yet either.  And now that I've FINALLY got the front
> gores on my under-gown to my own satisfaction -- which really is thanks to
> squinting at the pictures in _WitL_ where I finally got the idea of how they
> are supposed to lay -- I can play with the long-delayed brown cashmere/wool
> overgown.  I'm having dreams at night about garment-gores. Sigh.
> Lauren

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Hi. I will try and contact Master Luke Knowlton and see if he remembers 
where he came by the ones he has (unless you are out there lurking, good 
Sir). I vaguely remember him telling me that he came by them by a stroke 
of luck, but I'll ask nonetheless. Cheers, Mike T.


>Anyone ever try to buy shoe lasts in the US?  The only place I can find so
>far is the ShoeSchool which makes buying them rather obscure.
>
>
>  
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dress in Anglo Saxon England
From: Lauren Walker <lauren.walker@comcast.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hahahahahaha (evil laughter)! Another victory for the dread Local
Independent Bookseller!
Lauren

> From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
> 
> pbhthtththhhhhh!
> Sending you a big raspberry, 'cuz I got at *least* two weeks before mine
> arrive....
> *sigh*
> --sue, impatiently waiting.....
> 
> Lauren Walker wrote:
>> Oh, huzzah! My bookseller says the book is in! I can pick it up tonight! And
>> then a three-day weekend to confuse myself in it! Not that I've finished
>> _Woven Into The Earth_ yet either.  And now that I've FINALLY got the front
>> gores on my under-gown to my own satisfaction -- which really is thanks to
>> squinting at the pictures in _WitL_ where I finally got the idea of how they
>> are supposed to lay -- I can play with the long-delayed brown cashmere/wool
>> overgown.  I'm having dreams at night about garment-gores. Sigh.
>> Lauren
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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On Tuesday 28 December 2004 6:09 pm, sunshine_buchler@agilent.com wrote:
> Hello all, is anyone familiar with the book _Gothic Fashions in Women's
> Dress_ (a.k.a. _Gothic Woman's Fashion_) by Olga Sronkova? I think the
> original title must be _Die Mode der Gotischen Frau_. Is it translated into
> English? The translation seems to have an English title, but half the
> references to the 1954 printing say the text is in French? Is it in both
> French and English or are there different 1954 printings by the same
> publisher? Thanks!

I have a copy of Gothic Fashions in Women's Dress.  The text is in English.
I, too, would assume that it's the English version of "Die Mode der Gotischen 
Frau."  

It has many good black and white illustrations of costume depictions, mostly 
14th c. ones, from Eastern European manuscripts.  I remember that the text 
was not nearly as useful as the illustrations.  If you are interested in 
Eastern European medieval costume I would definitely look for the book.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dress in Anglo Saxon England
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2004 23:42:00 -0500
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On Thursday 30 December 2004 8:24 pm, Sue Clemenger wrote:
> pbhthtththhhhhh!
> Sending you a big raspberry, 'cuz I got at *least* two weeks before mine
> arrive....
> *sigh*
> --sue, impatiently waiting.....

I'm going to check Amazon right now and see whether they've shipped mine.  
(I'm betting against it, though; they seem to be the last distributor to get 
things.)  :-(

>
> Lauren Walker wrote:
> > Oh, huzzah! My bookseller says the book is in! I can pick it up tonight!
> > And then a three-day weekend to confuse myself in it! Not that I've
> > finished _Woven Into The Earth_ yet either. 

Neither have I, and I thank God for that.  It's helping me be patient in 
waiting for Dress in Anglo-Saxon England!  :-)


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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From: Chris <emeraldepona@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dress in Anglo Saxon England
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I've ordered mine through Amazon too and having checked today, doesn't show ANY changes...
 
RATS!!! and a small raspberry...I wish we had a local independant bookseller near me, but no such luck!  Oh well, back to 'Woven into the Earth' :)
 
Chris G.

Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com> wrote:
On Thursday 30 December 2004 8:24 pm, Sue Clemenger wrote:
> pbhthtththhhhhh!
> Sending you a big raspberry, 'cuz I got at *least* two weeks before mine
> arrive....
> *sigh*
> --sue, impatiently waiting.....

I'm going to check Amazon right now and see whether they've shipped mine. 
(I'm betting against it, though; they seem to be the last distributor to get 
things.) :-(

>
> Lauren Walker wrote:
> > Oh, huzzah! My bookseller says the book is in! I can pick it up tonight!
> > And then a three-day weekend to confuse myself in it! Not that I've
> > finished _Woven Into The Earth_ yet either. 

Neither have I, and I thank God for that. It's helping me be patient in 
waiting for Dress in Anglo-Saxon England! :-)




		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dress in Anglo Saxon England
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On Thursday 30 December 2004 11:48 pm, Chris wrote:
> I've ordered mine through Amazon too and having checked today, doesn't show
> ANY changes...
>
> RATS!!! and a small raspberry..

You are too right.  Arrgh.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal; it is the courage to continue 
that counts."--Winston Churchill
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Where to buy shoe lasts in the US?
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>From: "Wicked Frau" <wickedfrau@earthlink.net>
>Anyone ever try to buy shoe lasts in the US?  The only place I can find so
>far is the ShoeSchool which makes buying them rather obscure.

I know it's possible, but can be very expensive.  You may want to post the 
question to http://www.thehcc.org/cgi-bin/discus/discus.cgi  The folks at 
the HCC can be very helpful.

I will say that if you are wanting to make historical shoes, most modern 
lasts aren't really that useful (if you are making modern shoes, though, 
they work great :) ).

Marc


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Hi Marc, now I remember seeing your name here.  I'm the one who sent you the
shoe/patten picture the other day.  I guess I was confused.  Though I had
read through your information, and understood that this would have probably
been a turn shoe (Right?), that a last would be useful for final shaping?
No?  I suppose to be really accurate (not that I am), I would use one
pattern for both feet?

Thanks for your help!

Saragrace (aka wicked frau)

Le Shuuuu  : http://www.saragrace.net/images/Syblvontur/Sibyllevontibur4.jpg



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Hi again.  Found this WONDERFUL picture of these pattens just now.  
http://www.saragrace.net/images/Syblvontur/Sibyllevontibur4.jpg
(the 3rd image from the bottom).  Any thoughts on what the little hooks at
the end of the toe might be for?  Maybe to tie the shoe point in place?

Sg

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Now why didn't I think of that? Heck, I was down there just last week 
(well, at *my* LIB), pre-ordering the upcoming Harry Potter....
--sue, who will try to use the wait time productively, instead of 
dancing around stomping her feet, and whining like a little kid in the 
cereal aisle....;o)

Lauren Walker wrote:

> Hahahahahaha (evil laughter)! Another victory for the dread Local
> Independent Bookseller!
> Lauren


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Whoops, got so excited I pasted the wrong url:
http://people.freenet.de/mittelalterschuhe/neue_seite_55.htm

>-----Original Message-----
>From: Wicked Frau [mailto:wickedfrau@earthlink.net]
>Sent: Friday, December 31, 2004 8:08 AM
>To: 'Historical Costume'
>Subject: Marc Carlson-any thoughts on the purpose of....
>
>
>
>Hi again.  Found this WONDERFUL picture of these pattens just now.
>http://www.saragrace.net/images/Syblvontur/Sibyllevontibur4.jpg
>(the 3rd image from the bottom).  Any thoughts on what the little hooks at
the
>end of the toe might be for?  Maybe to tie the shoe point in place?
>
>Sg

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purely a guess, but I'd say it's to strengthen the long skinny wooden point.
Besides, makes it better for killing the cockroaches in the corners...

Anonymous <G>

>
>Hi again.  Found this WONDERFUL picture of these pattens just now.
>http://www.saragrace.net/images/Syblvontur/Sibyllevontibur4.jpg
>(the 3rd image from the bottom).  Any thoughts on what the little hooks at
>the end of the toe might be for?  Maybe to tie the shoe point in place?
>
>Sg

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>From: "Wicked Frau" <wickedfrau@earthlink.net>
>Hi again.  Found this WONDERFUL picture of these pattens just now.
>http://www.saragrace.net/images/Syblvontur/Sibyllevontibur4.jpg
>(the 3rd image from the bottom).  Any thoughts on what the little hooks at
>the end of the toe might be for?  Maybe to tie the shoe point in place?

Gotcha - and the corrected URL.

This particular style of trippe/patten is generally either made from stacks 
of leather, or, in the case of the pictures ones in the picture you mention 
and the one above it, cork.  As you can see more clearly in the picture 
above, the rand* is brought down around the cork filling, and braced (or 
tied) under the cork.  Then an outer sole is sewn on.  In the case of the 
picture you mention, the outer sole just comes up over the front of the 
cork, making the 'hook' you mention.  It's more decorative than anything 
else.

*Rand is a correct term in historical shoemaking for this sort of welt that 
comes down and either wraps around, or is rolled under, and is braced before 
an outer sole is attached.  The term is generally misused modern texts on 
medieval shoemaking for a welt on a turn shoe.

Does this make sense?

Marc


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>Does this make sense?
>
>Marc

Yes it does!  This is so cool.  I can't wait to do them.  I started looking
at leather from the Hide House....  I am going to do them in the colors as
in the picture, but wow they have some cool colors!  Makes me wanna wear
leather...(that's a scary thought!) 

Happy New Year
Sg

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Subject: [h-cost] Phantom of the Opera Renton, Washington
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For anyone who lives in the Puget Sound area (Washington), Phantom of the Opera is playing in Renton!

Guess what I hope I'm doing New Years day....

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares
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