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Date: Tue, 1 Mar 2005 13:39:54 +1100 (EST)
From: Bella <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Italian showcase costume/costumer for March
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Greetings all,

it is time for me to announce the March Italian Showcase costumer. This
month I am pleased to bring to you the work of Cynthia Isabella
Kalina, in a beautiful Venetian gown circa 1570s.

<http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/yourgarb/showcase.htm>

Enjoy!


SCA: Donna Bella Lucia da Verona
Innilgard, Lochac
LiveJournal: realm_of_venus


Find local movie times and trailers on Yahoo! Movies.
http://au.movies.yahoo.com
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From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oooooh, another fabric store online....
Date: Tue, 1 Mar 2005 08:08:28 -0600
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Check each one, though--I looked at their silks, and some of them were ~70% 
rayon/30% silk. Plenty were 100%, though, so yeah, some decent prices.

-E House 

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Mar  1 10:23:35 2005
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Subject: [h-cost] Need a source for this kind of dupioni
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Hi guys, I need a source for some black and silver striped dupioni which 
looks very much like this:

http://tinyurl.com/5m3fx

I have tried to contact this supplier to no avail.

Anyone seen anything like it?

Thanks,

Sg
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Mar  1 11:09:06 2005
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What did everyone think of the fashions on the Academy Awards?  I seem 
to be alone in liking Hilary Swank's dress.  She certainly has the body 
for it.

Sylrog

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oscars
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In a message dated 3/1/2005 11:09:48 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
sylvia@ntw.net writes:

What did  everyone think of the fashions on the Academy  Awards? 


I thought Cate Blanchett's dress was elegant, but didn't think the pale  
yellow color was particularly flattering--too monochromatic.  And I heard a  radio 
reporter describe it as "strapless"--it was one shoulder.
 
I always look forward to the supermarket tabloid "Star" issue that shows  
many of the dresses, although I don't necessarily agree with their assessment of  
what was a winner and what was a loser.
 
Ann Wass
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oscars
Date: Tue, 1 Mar 2005 10:07:57 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I didnt think the color was flattering either and I didn't like the 
purple or brown, whatever it was, belt.

On Mar 1, 2005, at 9:42 AM, AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

>
> In a message dated 3/1/2005 11:09:48 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> sylvia@ntw.net writes:
>
> What did  everyone think of the fashions on the Academy  Awards?
>
>
> I thought Cate Blanchett's dress was elegant, but didn't think the pale
> yellow color was particularly flattering--too monochromatic.  And I 
> heard a  radio
> reporter describe it as "strapless"--it was one shoulder.
>
> I always look forward to the supermarket tabloid "Star" issue that 
> shows
> many of the dresses, although I don't necessarily agree with their 
> assessment of
> what was a winner and what was a loser.
>
> Ann Wass
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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I had no interest in the Oscars this year. What a slate of movies! Who could
really care? 

I watched for about half an hour in the middle, but not even the gowns could
hold my interest. During the half hour I watched, I saw Beyonce in that long
black dress. All right, I suppose, except for all the tin cans she was
wearing as jewelry :-) So I will look for one of the tabloids to cover the
dresses and take a peek then.

Gail Finke

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Oscars
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 I kind of like it, but it is really going to look dated in a few years.
Melanie Griffith really got attacked for a dress with a equally low, but
different back--but I think there might have been sheer fabric in back(or
was that skin wrinkling up with the weight she's put on while dealing with a
broken foot?).

Cindy Abel

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Subject: [h-cost] 18th century small print fabric
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 Here is a question that's a bit off-topic. I have 2 16" vinyl dolls
designed by Helen Kish, that I would love to redress in various historic
costumes. I have a pretty accurate pattern of two 18th century gowns
designed for Sasha dolls that I will alter to fit these dolls and use my
copy of Janet Arnold's "Patterns of Fashion" to make more accurate. However
I'm looking for modern reproductions in a small scale of 18th century
fabrics and I'm not enough of an artist to make my own. I live in Omaha, NE
and even the speciality quilt shop here doesn't carry such stuff. I've shown
the staff pics of "real 18th c fabrics" I want a reproduction of and they
drool over them too, but no luck. I'd love to find something along the lines
of the printed fabric used for the robe de la francaise in Arnold in cherry
shades with the "buttoned" stomacher. Does anyone know of anyone out there
that carries such reproduction fabric in cotton or silk? Fabric with a small
interwoven pattern, like a floral stripe or brocade in an 18th c pattern
would also be great.

Many thanks

Cindy Abel
brujne@creighton.edu

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 I kind of like it, but it is really going to look dated in a few years.
Melanie Griffith really got attacked for a dress with a equally low, but
different back--but I think there might have been sheer fabric in back(or
was that skin wrinkling up with the weight she's put on while dealing with a
broken foot?).

Cindy Abel

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century small print fabric
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At 11:03 01/03/2005 -0600, you wrote:
>
>
>  Here is a question that's a bit off-topic. I have 2 16" vinyl dolls
>designed by Helen Kish, that I would love to redress in various historic
>costumes. I have a pretty accurate pattern of two 18th century gowns
>designed for Sasha dolls that I will alter to fit these dolls and use my
>copy of Janet Arnold's "Patterns of Fashion" to make more accurate. However
>I'm looking for modern reproductions in a small scale of 18th century
>fabrics and I'm not enough of an artist to make my own. I live in Omaha, NE
>and even the speciality quilt shop here doesn't carry such stuff. I've shown
>the staff pics of "real 18th c fabrics" I want a reproduction of and they
>drool over them too, but no luck. I'd love to find something along the lines
>of the printed fabric used for the robe de la francaise in Arnold in cherry
>shades with the "buttoned" stomacher. Does anyone know of anyone out there
>that carries such reproduction fabric in cotton or silk? Fabric with a small
>interwoven pattern, like a floral stripe or brocade in an 18th c pattern
>would also be great.


Nothing as fancy as the cherry stripe, but some pretty small prints 
nevertheless. And a really helpful lady.

http://www.littletrimmings.com/FabricsMenu.asp

Suzi


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In a message dated 3/1/2005 12:03:39 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
sylvia@ntw.net writes:

And I  
> heard a  radio
> reporter describe it as "strapless"--it  was one shoulder.



On AOL....via Entertainment Weekly...they decried Johnny Depp's spats. No  
spats in sight...nada, nicht, none.
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I thought Hillary Swank's dress was amazing and fabulous. It was far more subtle than just having it cut down to 'there' in front. I loved the sapphire blue color and I loved the daring plunge it took in the back in contrast to the rather more demure front. It was perfectly designed to show off her body. 

I thought that Helen Mirren had a lovely dress as well, although you didn't get to see as much of it since she didn't win. I lked Imelda Staunton's emerald green number with the tea length front and train in back, unusual and, on her, very flattering. 

Karen
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In a message dated 3/1/2005 11:09:23 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
sylvia@ntw.net writes:

I seem  
to be alone in liking Hilary Swank's dress. 


Stupid me! I was thinking of Renee Zellweger's red dress...
 
 
not Swanks trashy gimmicky get up. YUK! Ugly from the front; trashy in the  
back.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oscars
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Melanie Griffiths dress had nude coloured fabric in the back, the match to
her skin tone was very good. I'm looking for more pictures of it to get a
better look, elements of this dress would suit a ball gown or Middle Eastern
dance gown.

Sheridan

http://www.ctv.ca/mini_v2/oscars2005/static/galleries/red_carpet/index.html

To see the picture, click on the last star on the right, in the 4th row. If
you right click the picture it should give you a zoom option. You can see
the fabric puckering along the seam near the beads.


----- Original Message -----
From: "Cindy Abel" <brujne@creighton.edu>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 01, 2005 12:07 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Oscars


>
>
>  I kind of like it, but it is really going to look dated in a few years.
> Melanie Griffith really got attacked for a dress with a equally low, but
> different back--but I think there might have been sheer fabric in back(or
> was that skin wrinkling up with the weight she's put on while dealing with
a
> broken foot?).
>
> Cindy Abel
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century small print fabric
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Hi Cindy,
 
Try here: www.reproductionfabrics.com or you can also try www.ghostforge.com.  Really nice folk but a bit slow on delivery sometimes.
 
 
Chris G.

Cindy Abel <brujne@creighton.edu> wrote:


Here is a question that's a bit off-topic. I have 2 16" vinyl dolls
designed by Helen Kish, that I would love to redress in various historic
costumes. I have a pretty accurate pattern of two 18th century gowns
designed for Sasha dolls that I will alter to fit these dolls and use my
copy of Janet Arnold's "Patterns of Fashion" to make more accurate. However
I'm looking for modern reproductions in a small scale of 18th century
fabrics and I'm not enough of an artist to make my own. I live in Omaha, NE
and even the speciality quilt shop here doesn't carry such stuff. I've shown
the staff pics of "real 18th c fabrics" I want a reproduction of and they
drool over them too, but no luck. I'd love to find something along the lines
of the printed fabric used for the robe de la francaise in Arnold in cherry
shades with the "buttoned" stomacher. Does anyone know of anyone out there


		
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oscars
Date: Tue, 1 Mar 2005 12:22:33 -0700
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I hate that nude spandex look.  It reminds me of ice skating costumes  
and I don't see any purpose at all in using it for evening dresses.

On Mar 1, 2005, at 11:23 AM, Shane & Sheridan wrote:

> Melanie Griffiths dress had nude coloured fabric in the back, the  
> match to
> her skin tone was very good. I'm looking for more pictures of it to  
> get a
> better look, elements of this dress would suit a ball gown or Middle  
> Eastern
> dance gown.
>
> Sheridan
>
> http://www.ctv.ca/mini_v2/oscars2005/static/galleries/red_carpet/ 
> index.html
>
> To see the picture, click on the last star on the right, in the 4th  
> row. If
> you right click the picture it should give you a zoom option. You can  
> see
> the fabric puckering along the seam near the beads.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Cindy Abel" <brujne@creighton.edu>
> To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, March 01, 2005 12:07 PM
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Oscars
>
>
>>
>>
>>  I kind of like it, but it is really going to look dated in a few  
>> years.
>> Melanie Griffith really got attacked for a dress with a equally low,  
>> but
>> different back--but I think there might have been sheer fabric in  
>> back(or
>> was that skin wrinkling up with the weight she's put on while dealing  
>> with
> a
>> broken foot?).
>>
>> Cindy Abel
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oscars
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What was with the wide popularity of the "mermaid" skirt? (I'm sure it has another name, but you know what I mean I'm sure.) At least one of the women presenters, can't remember who, was clearly having trouble walking in hers. Definitely a hobble around the knees--thought Women's Liberation included liberation from the inability to run away!
Best outfit=Morgan Freeman's tux with long scarf. He looked like the relaxed and stylish gentleman he seems to be.
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-----Original Message-----
From: AlbertCat@aol.com
Sent: Mar 1, 2005 2:08 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oscars

 
In a message dated 3/1/2005 11:09:23 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
sylvia@ntw.net writes:

I seem  
to be alone in liking Hilary Swank's dress. 


Stupid me! I was thinking of Renee Zellweger's red dress...
 
 
not Swanks trashy gimmicky get up. YUK! Ugly from the front; trashy in the  
back.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oscars/nude fabric
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Sylvia Rognstad wrote:

> I hate that nude spandex look.  It reminds me of ice skating costumes  
> and I don't see any purpose at all in using it for evening dresses.

I think probably 99% of the people watching won't realize it's fabric. 
They're likely thinking "is it going to fall off?"  "Is it glued on?" 
The vicarious thrill, y'know.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oscars/nude fabric
Date: Tue, 1 Mar 2005 12:50:58 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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You could tell it was fabric when you saw the back up close because it 
wrinkled.  And I'm sure a lot of people saw her up close before the 
show and at the parties.  I just think it looks really cheap.


On Mar 1, 2005, at 12:32 PM, Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
>
>> I hate that nude spandex look.  It reminds me of ice skating costumes 
>>  and I don't see any purpose at all in using it for evening dresses.
>
> I think probably 99% of the people watching won't realize it's fabric. 
> They're likely thinking "is it going to fall off?"  "Is it glued on?" 
> The vicarious thrill, y'know.
>
> -- 
> Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent
>
> "A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
> annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright
> _______________________________________________
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Anyone ever touched silk Zibeline?
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Lots of people do this.  One of the ladies at Hyena (Sorry, I know some 
of you like them) went as far as to tell me that 100% silk velvet didn't 
really exist so it was justifiable to call rayon/silk velvet pure silk!  
Grrrrrr!

AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

> 
>In a message dated 2/25/2005 7:16:19 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
>wickedfrau@earthlink.net writes:
>
>http://www.fabrics.net/outlet/fabrics.asp?ProductType=Silk+Zibeline
>
>
>They have some other nice things, but why do people persist in calling a  
>fabric that is only 12% silk, "silk velvet'?  NOT!
> 
>Ann Wass
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I found a site with some pics of Melanie Griffith's dress:

http://movies.yahoo.com/shop?d=hc&id=1800018809&cf=pg&photoid=563513&intl=us

Sheridan, if you click on next and previous photos you'll see at least 
two shots that feature the back of her dress.

Not exactly understated, was it?


Shane & Sheridan wrote:

> Melanie Griffiths dress had nude coloured fabric in the back, the match to
> her skin tone was very good. I'm looking for more pictures of it to get a
> better look, elements of this dress would suit a ball gown or Middle Eastern
> dance gown.
> 
> Sheridan

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oscars
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Melissa Brown Muckart"

> I found a site with some pics of Melanie Griffith's dress:
>
>
http://movies.yahoo.com/shop?d=hc&id=1800018809&cf=pg&photoid=563513&intl=us
>
> Sheridan, if you click on next and previous photos you'll see at least
> two shots that feature the back of her dress.
>
> Not exactly understated, was it?


Nope, which is what made me think it would be perfect for a stage outfit.
:-)

Thanks!

Sheridan


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Mar  1 19:58:28 2005
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oscars
Date: Tue, 1 Mar 2005 19:56:46 -0500
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What the press is calling the mermaid dress, is an hour-glass dress with a 
fantail.  The bottom of the dress is the fantail.... think of a fantail 
goldfish.  Mae West made this look fashionable in Hollywood.

I liked the fantail when I saw the first couple of stars wearing it. But the 
look was worn by so many ladies, it became boring by the end of the 
pre-show.

I liked Natalie Portman's Greek Goddess look.  She can wear older styles and 
look wonderful.  She is into vintage clothing and wears it frequently.

I also loved Hilary's gown for being different and it hugged her body.  It 
really showed what a great figure she has.  I had to laugh when she was on 
Oprah yesterday.  Someone on the red carpet told her that the crack of her 
butt was showing.  On camera, Chad, her husband, checked and fixed the 
problem, while Hillary front was to the camera.

When I saw Charlize's gown, it screamed 50s prom dresses.  I always hated 
the rows and rows of net ruffles used in that manner.  Even the bodice was 
1950s prom.  To complete the 50s look, she needed more of a crinoline 
petticoat in the front of the skirt.  I think of all the gowns, I disliked 
hers the least.

The only other dress that I disliked was Melanie Griffith.  Her dress was 
much like her face... over-done.  I can see her looking like Joan Rivers in 
20 years.

Kate's dress was a nice style, but I agree with Ann Wass, the color was 
wrong for her.

Mentioning color,  Renee needs to go back to being a blonde or brown hair. 
My husband walked into the room and said, "That girl needs some iron 
tablets.  She looks sickly."  Renee is too fair skinned to have jet black 
hair.

I loved Emmy (from Phantom) and Beyonce looks.  They were so classy.

Star Jones had the best jewels.  Her headpiece and necklace were stunning. 
I love the pearls mixed with jewels.

BTW, the press reported that one of the ladies was wearing vintage 
Versace.... how is Versace vintage?

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oscars
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On Tuesday 01 March 2005 11:14 am, Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
> What did everyone think of the fashions on the Academy Awards?  I seem
> to be alone in liking Hilary Swank's dress.  She certainly has the body
> for it.

Over the past 10 years I have seen very, very few dresses from the Academy 
Awards that I wholeheartedly liked.  (The last one I remember was from when 
Halle Berry won a few years back--the full plum skirt with cabbage roses over 
illusion net number).

Swank's gown was much more attractive than average, but I thought the back 
opening was just a bit too wide to be graceful or attractive.  Otherwise, her 
gown had a lot going for it.

And Cate Blanchett should never, ever wear bright yellow judging by her 
dress.  :-)

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: david webb <alderweb@vaxxine.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] dress styles in 18th century-Brunswick image
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On page 175 of Stella Tillyard's "Aristocrats: the illustrated companion to 
the television series" there is a reproduction of  a painting of  Lady Mary 
Fox in a grey/blue? Brunswick c. 1767. The 18th century version of the 
"hoodie"! Self-fabric trimming is as equally elaborate as in the other 
styles of the period, such as the sack.

I can't see this variation ever becoming popular at North American 
reenactments when most events take place in the summer when the average 
temperature is over 90 F. or 30 C. It's high-necked - higher than the 
version in Bjarne's picture - up to the base of the throat - so the wearer 
couldn't show off "the girls", which appears to be a preoccupation with 
many ladies. The painting definitely shows the line of the top of stays 
underneath, though.

The costumes for the series seem mediocre and lots of the factoids are 
wrong, but some excellent images in the book if you find it in the 
remainder bin.

Sheridan Alder

At 10:08 AM 2/28/2005 +0100, you wrote:
>Hi.
>Here are two examples of different dresses. The first is a  Brunnswick 
>dress. Some people claim that a Brunswick only is a jacket, but it is a 
>dress also. This type was very popular in Denmark and Germany, perhaps 
>because it would have ben very nice warm for winter use.Next looks like a 
>francaise dress, but i dont believe it has any pleats in the back. I think 
>it would have a pointed v in the back of the bodice.
>Other types are:
>Bodice and skirt in many variations, included paniers.
>Round Gown, wich looks like a bodice and skirt, but it is a 1 piece garment.
>Piemontaise wich is a dress that looks like a francaise dress, only the 
>pleats in the back hangs free.
>Mantua and skirt.
>One type also is a seperate skirt and a bodice with tabs wich rest on the 
>skirt edge. Tabs are not boned, but soft.
>Closed with a stomacher.
>But i think why people think there are very few types, are that only few 
>are reproduced. People love the pleats in a francaise dress and makes it 
>frequently.
>One thing i was very dissapointed with was the film Aristocrats where 
>nearly every dress in the start was a francaise dress.
>
>Here are the examples:
>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/pusling1.htm
>
>
>Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
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Hi everyone,
I'm reproducing the "polonaise gown with the back cut en fourreau" on page
36-37 of Patterns of Fashion 1. I've started my corset and expect to be
finished within the next week or so but according to the notes the dress is
supposed to be fitted over a 'false rump' so does anybody know of a good
(online) pattern for this? I can't afford to import patterns so it's got to
be 'big 3' or easy to draft on my own. I assume it isn't the same crescent
shape used by Elizabethan costumers as it essentially only supposed to widen
the hips at the sides but not add to the back. Although the originals are
apparently stuffed with cork I assume padding with something softer would
work as well? Or could I get away with not wearing a bum roll, given that I
have natural padding there instead :)
thanks
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole@iimetro.com.au

Mr. Speaker, I said the honourable member was a liar it is true and I am
sorry for it. The honourable member may place the punctuation where he
pleases.
Richard Brinsley Sheridan (1751-1816) British dramatist. On being asked to
apologise for calling a fellow MP a liar. Attrib.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century 'bum roll'
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In a message dated 3/2/2005 12:22:51 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
ewalpole@iimetro.com.au writes:

rump' so  does anybody know of a good
(online) pattern for  this?


C'mon! You don't need a pattern! It's a crescent shape. It stops just at  the 
front of the hips. [so the waist measurement of the inside curve is maybe 2"  
or 3" more than 1/2 your waist measurement.] No padding in front. 
 
In Jean Hunnisett's 1st volume, on page 27, she has a pattern. The crescent  
is 4" deep CB. It is 5 1/2 wide from CB to the outermost part of the  curve.
 
To plot it, draw a rectangle  5 1/2" wide and 8" tall. Grid it in 1"  
squares. Put a point 2" in from the right side at the top. Now a point on  the right 
side 3" down. Now one 6" down and 1" left from the right side.  One 7" down 
and 2" left, and finally one at the bottom left corner. Draw a curve  connecting 
these. This is the outside curve,
 
The inside curve starts at the same top point [2" left of the right side],  
then goes thru a point 3" down and 3" left, then ends at a  point all the way 
to the left side 4" down.
 
This is the right half of the full crescent shape of the pad.  [You cut two 
full crescents and sew them and stuff them like a  pillow.]
 
This sounds complicated but it's not. You'll get it at once when you start  
plotting points. 
 
 
You may want to enlarge it or curve it more to suit your taste, but you  
don't really need a pattern.
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>I use an iron-on interfacing, "sta-flex" here, and just cut the slashes 
>where I want them. I have also used Fraycheck. You can see slashed sleeves 
>(doublet and breeches too) on my website - these were done with sta-flex.

>http://www.suziclarke.co.uk/viewimage.php?image=fantasy_ramirez_katana.jpg

>Suzi

Hi Suzi,

Does this mean that you can just cut the slashes and not have to do any
other finishing around each one?
Thanks, Anne
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From: "Jaedyn" <jreed@grapeleafpatterns.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 18th century 'bum roll'
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You could also pad the pleats if you weren't into sewing the crescent form.
Check Drea Leed's Elizabethan costuming page and you'll find a pattern there
I think.  You can enlarge it to suit the period.


Jaedyn




----------------------
Grape Leaf Patterns
http://www.grapeleafpatterns.com


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 126
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At 01:48 02/03/2005 -0500, you wrote:

> >I use an iron-on interfacing, "sta-flex" here, and just cut the slashes
> >where I want them. I have also used Fraycheck. You can see slashed sleeves
> >(doublet and breeches too) on my website - these were done with sta-flex.
>
> >http://www.suziclarke.co.uk/viewimage.php?image=fantasy_ramirez_katana.jpg
>
> >Suzi
>
>Hi Suzi,
>
>Does this mean that you can just cut the slashes and not have to do any
>other finishing around each one?
>Thanks, Anne


Yes, depending on the fabric. I did the one on the web site with no 
finishing, but the recent copy I made wasn't so friendly, which is when I 
used fraycheck. Good quality cotton dress velvet is fine, but the rayon 
velvet isn't so good. If you want you can use Fraycheck, or you can also 
use diluted PVA glue, which I have used on 18th pinked hems. You just have 
to watch that the colour doesn't run - the rayon did run, but didn't affect 
the finish.

Suzi


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Subject: [h-cost] Great film photo site
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I found this great website with photos from recent movies, http://outnow.ch/movies/ . They have more photos than any other site I have found.  Choose a movie then click on Media from the left menu... bilder is the movie photos.  Once you click on a thumbnail and get the enlargement, look for an icon in the upper right hand corner.  This will enlarge the photo again.  If you try to print one of these X-large photos, make sure to do a print preview first.  The images are larger than a standard sheet of paper.

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com 
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com 
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Great film photo site
Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2005 05:10:26 -0500
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My goodness, look at this set from the film Alexander,
http://outnow.ch/Media/Img/2004/Alexander/?i=movie%2E1%2F14%2Ejpg&w=1400&h=912&full=1&print=1

Penny Ladnier, owner
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I found the master list of films, http://outnow.ch/archive/Movies/ .  When 
you click on a title, scroll to the right and look for the word "bilder" or 
"bild" for a photo link.  I am really enjoying these very large images.

Penny Ladnier, owner
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In a message dated 3/1/2005 10:10:48 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
cathy@thyrsus.com writes:

(The  last one I remember was from when 
Halle Berry won a few years back--the  full plum skirt with cabbage roses 
over 
illusion net  number).




Looked very elegant until you saw that her bosom were fully visible--not my  
idea of elegance or class!!
 
Ann Wass
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References: <dc.214e538a.2f56b3df@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century 'bum roll'
Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2005 07:37:50 -0500
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Heck, back in the primitive days when the look was what mattered for a
NoBudget show, I used a leg from pantyhose and loosely stuffed a section big
enough to fit to the sides, tied it in the middle.  After knotting the end,
I attached two ties and "voila!" It did look strange, but had the desired
effect.  (And another way to recycle)

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 1:14 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century 'bum roll'


>
> In a message dated 3/2/2005 12:22:51 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> ewalpole@iimetro.com.au writes:
>
> rump' so  does anybody know of a good
> (online) pattern for  this?
>
>
> C'mon! You don't need a pattern! It's a crescent shape. It stops just at
the
> front of the hips. [so the waist measurement of the inside curve is maybe
2"
> or 3" more than 1/2 your waist measurement.] No padding in front.
>
> In Jean Hunnisett's 1st volume, on page 27, she has a pattern. The
crescent
> is 4" deep CB. It is 5 1/2 wide from CB to the outermost part of the
curve.
>
> To plot it, draw a rectangle  5 1/2" wide and 8" tall. Grid it in 1"
> squares. Put a point 2" in from the right side at the top. Now a point on
the right
> side 3" down. Now one 6" down and 1" left from the right side.  One 7"
down
> and 2" left, and finally one at the bottom left corner. Draw a curve
connecting
> these. This is the outside curve,
>
> The inside curve starts at the same top point [2" left of the right side],
> then goes thru a point 3" down and 3" left, then ends at a  point all the
way
> to the left side 4" down.
>
> This is the right half of the full crescent shape of the pad.  [You cut
two
> full crescents and sew them and stuff them like a  pillow.]
>
> This sounds complicated but it's not. You'll get it at once when you start
> plotting points.
>
>
> You may want to enlarge it or curve it more to suit your taste, but you
> don't really need a pattern.
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century 'bum roll'
Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2005 07:44:29 -0500
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As to padding , I have been using the ubiquitous shoulder pads for this
purpose (recycle-recycle-recycle) after recovering them with fabric to match
the garment.

Kathleen, who has a mammoth collection of cast off shoulderpads.  At one
time I considered making a whole gown of them.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jaedyn" <jreed@grapeleafpatterns.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 2:04 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 18th century 'bum roll'


> You could also pad the pleats if you weren't into sewing the crescent
form.
> Check Drea Leed's Elizabethan costuming page and you'll find a pattern
there
> I think.  You can enlarge it to suit the period.
>
>
> Jaedyn
>
>
>
>
> ----------------------
> Grape Leaf Patterns
> http://www.grapeleafpatterns.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2005 08:10:25 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Great film photo site
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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> I found the master list of films, http://outnow.ch/archive/Movies/ .  When
> you click on a title, scroll to the right and look for the word "bilder"
> or
> "bild" for a photo link.  I am really enjoying these very large images.

Just a hint for everyone regarding this website...Since it isn't American,
the title of a movie you might be searching for could be different.  If
you look up the movie you are interested in using the Internet Movie Data
Base (www.imdb.com), it will give you the alternative titles (mainly for
diff. European countries) for a film.

So if you can't find what the title you are looking for at first, give
that a try and you might find it listed under a different title.

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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For the moment, I'm listing these privately -- here and through the the 
swapsell, costumetrader, and garb4sale lists. Most are in fairly good 
condition, with little wear, though the dust jackets aren't in *perfect* 
shape. I've used Amazon to give an idea of the list-price-new and shipping 
weight where available. Shipping is not included in those prices.
I'll accept offers privately. PayPal (through Frank) would be ideal, but 
will negotiate other payment methods if required.


Caravaggio
Catherine Puglisi (Phaidon, 1998, 2000) ISBN 0-7148-3966-3
Shipping weight 4.3 lb          List price $39.99
Biography of Caravaggio with lots of good details of important paintings. 
Many rarely-seen paintings of both Caravaggio and other artists.


Colour Library: Dürer
Martin Bailey (Phaidon, 1995, 1998, 1999, 2001) ISBN 0-7148-3334-7
Shipping weight 1.2 lb          list price $9.95
Lots of sketches and color plates.

Heaven in Art
Erika Langmuir (National Gallery, London/Watson-Guptill Publications (BPI 
Communications), New York, 1998) ISBN 0-8230-0334-5
Shipping weight 9.6 oz          list price $3.98
13th-17th Centuries Italy (various), Flanders, Germany, Spain. Various 
artists. Images and details of a limited number of religious art works.

Masterpieces of Western Art From the Gothic to the Present Day (A history 
of art in 900 individual studies)
Ingo F. Walther, ed. (Taschen)  3-8228-7031-5
Shipping weight 9.4 lb          list price $49.99
Most are half-page images of paintings. A lot of the usual crop, but some 
that don't appear everywhere.

Italian Paintings of the Sixteenth Century (National Gallery Schools of 
Painting)
Allan Braham  (The National Gallery; Collins,  1985) ISBN 0-00-217402-2
16th Century Italy. Large plates of a limited number of paintings shown -- 
the volume is meant to be representative, not exhaustive. SHOWS SIGNS OF WEAR.

Masters of German Art: Hans Holbein
Stephanie Buck  (Könemann, 1999)  ISBN 3-8290-2583-1
Shipping weight 3 lb  list price ~$20
Lots of great details from important paintings

Masters of Italian Art: Ghirlandaio
Andreas Quermann  (Könemann, 1998)  ISBN 3-8290-0248-3
Shipping weight 3 lb   list price ~$20
Lots of great details from important paintings

Masters of Netherlandish Art: Pieter Bruegel
Christian Vöhringer  (Könemann, 1999) ISBN  3-8290-2579-3
Shipping weight 3 lb   list price ~$20
Bruegel the Elder and others Lots of engravings. Mixture of 
fantasy/phantasmagorical and real subjects. MISSING DUST JACKET.

Paintings in the National Gallery, London
Linda Whiteley, Augusto Gentili, William L. Barcham  (Bulfinch Press , 
2000) ISBN 821226959
Shipping weight  9.8 lb  list price  $135.00
Antiquity to 20th Cent., mostly European.  Lots of large, good-quality 
plates suitable for detail work. STILL HAS ORIGINAL CORRUGATED CARTON

The Prado
Santiago Alcolea (Blanch Abradale Press/Harry N. Abrams, 1991, 1996) ISBN 
0-8109-8147-5
Shipping weight 6 lb
12th - 20th Centuries Spanish, Flemish, Dutch, Italian. Large color plates, 
many of paintings not seen elsewhere.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art Guide (paper)
Kathleen Howard, ed. (The Metropolitan Museum of Art/Harry N. Abrams, New 
York, 1994). Fourth Impression, 2000 ISBN  0-87099-711-4
List price  $17.95
Antiquity to 20th Cent. all countries. Images are small, almost thumbnails

Treasures from the Detroit Institute of Arts
Joh. Enschedé en Zonen, Haarlem, Netherlands, 1966 LoC 66-22478
Black and white images from various countries, periods, and media
Well-worn "READING COPY"; originally purchased second-hand.

Venice: Art and Architecture (2-vol. boxed set)
Giandomenico Romanelli, ed. (Könemann, 1999)  ISBN 3-89508-593-6
Shipping weight 14 lb  List price $89.95 (originally  $150 IIRC)
Antiquity to 20th Cent. Venice. Large plates of various artworks and 
architectural structures

Treasures of Early Irish Art, 1500 B.C. to 1500 A.D.
(Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York/Arnoldo Mondadori Editore, Verona, 
1977) ISBN 0-87099-164-7
Antiquity to 15th Cent. Ireland. Large color photos and plates, mostly 
ancient Irish and through the 8th-9th Centuries
CONDITION: fair to "reading copy"; originally purchased second-hand.

Extreme Beauty: The Body Transformed  (hardbound)
Harold Koda (The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2001) ISBN 0-300-09117-6
Shipping weight 2.9 lb  List price $40.00
1600 to present, various countries. Large color photos of bodices, stays, 
puffed sleeves, petticoats, hoop skirts, etc. Some plates of corresponding 
paintings and engravings.  Mostly OOP for SCA.

Fashion in Detail - From the 17th and 18th Centuries   (hardbound)
Avril Hart and Susan North  (Rizzoli International, 1998) ISBN  0-8478-2151-X
Shipping weight  3.4 lb   List price $60 (lowest price on Amazon is $80!)
Detailed photos of under and outer garments, both in the whole and up-close 
mostly 1600-1800, mostly English

A History of Beads From 30,000 BC to the Present, Concise Edition  (paperback)
Lois Sherr Dubin (Harry N. Abrams, New York, 1995) ISBN 0-8109-2617-2
Shipping weight 1.7 lb  List price  $19.95
Antiquity through present all over the globe. Large photos of beaded 
artworks. Photos, history, uses of beads. Most info OOP for SCA.

Art of Embroidery: History of Style and Technique
Lanto Synge (Royal School of Needlework/Antique Collectors' Club, 
Woodbridge, England, 2001) ISBN 1-85149-359-X
Shipping weight  4.3 lb  List price $89.50 (£45)
Antiquity to 20th Cent. Various countries, mostly English  Lots of color 
photos and descriptions.

Wales: A History
Gwynfor Evans (Barnes & Noble, 1996) ISBN 0-7607-0120-2
Celtic to 20th Century Wales. Translated from the Welsh  (original title: 
Land of My Fathers, published 1974).

VIRGIN: Prelude to the Throne
Robin Maxwell (Scribner Paperback Fiction (Simon and Schuster), 2001) ISBN 
0-7432-0485-9
Shipping weight 9.6 oz  List price $12.00
Tudor England, period of Edward VI. Fictional account of Elizabeth's life 
under Thomas Seymour



Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Books for sale
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Great idea!  I'm moving will be posting books for sale this weekend.

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oscars
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Ann,

If I recall, the print was placed to hide her nipples.  I have the old 
magazines for Oscar fashions.  When I come across her photo, I will let you 
know.

I do recall Gwenth's pink gown that was lovely and Julia R. black and white 
vintage Valentine gown was to die for.

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com 


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How imaginative and "kamakazi/gonzo" costuming was
that!
 Tho necessatie has always been the mother of
invention right?
I remember reading about the ladies on the American
Parairie using a lage tin can,both ends cut off,strung
thru with cord and tied around the waist to make a
bustle when there was no "Macy's West" to go to to get
the right look.
 I am guilty of making paniers for my DD'd little Bo
Peep cossie out of plastic grocery bags,stuffed with
other bags clipping open the handles, and retieing
them around her waist.( I've even considered those
large baskin robbins ice cream tubs,split in half,
plus side, you get to empty thoses tubs)
 Melody

--- Lloyd Mitchell <rmitchell@washjeff.edu> wrote:

> Heck, back in the primitive days when the look was
> what mattered for a NoBudget show, I used a leg from
pantyhose and loosely stuffed a section big
> enough to fit to the sides, tied it in the middle. 
> After knotting the end,> I attached two ties and
"voila!" It did look> strange, but had the desired
> effect.  (And another way to recycle)
> > Kathleen

> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <AlbertCat@aol.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 1:14 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century 'bum roll'
> 
> > > 
> > rump'  does anybody know of a good
> > (online) pattern for  this?
> >
> >
> > 


	
		
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Penny Ladnier wrote:

> If I recall, the print was placed to hide her nipples.

The good ol' strategic placement.  Someday maybe sheer fabrics for men 
will be in fashion.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright
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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net (Elena O'Tighearnaigh)
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oscars
Date: Wed, 02 Mar 2005 22:10:51 +0000
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Ooohhhh!  What a tanalizing thought....

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> Penny Ladnier wrote: 
> 
> > If I recall, the print was placed to hide her nipples. 
> 
> The good ol' strategic placement. Someday maybe sheer fabrics for men 
> will be in fashion. 
> 
> -- 
> Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent 
> 
> "A positive attitude may not solve all of your problems, but it will 
> annoy enough people to make it worth the effort" - Herm Albright 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
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>> If I recall, the print was placed to hide her nipples.

>The good ol' strategic placement. Someday maybe sheer fabrics for men 
>will be in fashion.
 
 
Heaven forfend!
 
:)
KP

		
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From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] A few Historic (or Hysteric) films  I've wondered about
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 I know these movies are a few years ago, but it was
before I was interested in costuming ,so I'll ask now.
 Does anyone remember if the costumes in " Barry
Lyndon" were any good?
 I vaguely remember the time era as 1700's.

Also the outfits in the rather, "strange", movie "The
Brotherhood of the Wolf" ,...how were these.
Last one: "Restoration"... w Meg Ryan & Rob't Downey
....
 Do you see a pattern here, yes I like the look...
I figure, if all men wore these clothes, wars would
never be fought.
 ( can you just see some guy in a big wig ,tricorn,
petticoat breeches,lace boot toppers,sleeve lace
,jabot and frock coat squaring off {Picture Robert
Dinero tricked out}"You looking at me?, ,you looking
at me Punk?" Opposite side, Clint Eastwood" Go
ahead-make my day,Fop)

 Back to reality,
Melody


	
		
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(snip)
> Do you see a pattern here, yes I like the look...
> I figure, if all men wore these clothes, wars would
> never be fought.
> ( can you just see some guy in a big wig ,tricorn,
> petticoat breeches,lace boot toppers,sleeve lace
> ,jabot and frock coat squaring off {Picture Robert
> Dinero tricked out}"You looking at me?, ,you looking
> at me Punk?" Opposite side, Clint Eastwood" Go
> ahead-make my day,Fop)
>
> Back to reality,
> Melody

Oh, but they did....the era you're speaking of was rife with warfare and 
private dueling of all sorts.  I do historic rapier combat and the 17th and 
18th centuries were the height of the dueling age.

I do love the costumes, though, and think that men do look womderful in 
them.

Melusine 

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In a message dated 3/2/2005 4:05:47 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
cvirtue+dated+1125349040.72e230@thibault.org writes:

Someday  maybe sheer fabrics for men 
will be in  fashion.



Remember the 1950s nylon shirts?  They were sheer.  I don't  remember if ALL 
guys wore T/undershirts beneath.
 
Ann Wass
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In a message dated 2/25/2005 4:27:34 PM Central Standard Time, 
irmgart@gmail.com writes:
http://tinyurl.com/5pgc9
the Irish over is is similar to mine, but the sleeves of the underdress are 
more fitted.  I have saved those sites you sent.  They willhelp in the future, 
finally got the backbone to tell a few friends I didn't care to compete just 
wanted to sew, but that may change and at that time will need the sites 
everyone has been so nice to send. thanks for your help and interest of a beginner.

sincerely theresa
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If you are a fan of the film Chicago and own the DVD or video... I really need some help.  I have some photos of an exhibit of the film's costumes.  I have one lady's costume that is very detailed but can't seem to find the costume in the film.  It is sticking in my mind, that it is in the film, but I can't figure out where.  If you would like to take a stab at trying to find this costume in the film, please email off list.  

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com 
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com 
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A few Historic (or Hysteric) films  I've wondered about
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In a message dated 03/02/05 10:39:46 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
celticredhead2002@yahoo.com writes:

I know  these movies are a few years ago, but it was
before I was interested in  costuming ,so I'll ask now.
Does anyone remember if the costumes in "  Barry
Lyndon" were any good?
I vaguely remember the time era as  1700's.
 
The costumes from "Barry Lyndon", IMO, were very good. If you are familiar  
with portraits of the time period, you can see where some of the costumes were  
copied from the portraits.

Also the  outfits in the rather, "strange", movie "The
Brotherhood of the Wolf"  ,...how were these.
Last one: "Restoration"... w Meg Ryan & Rob't  Downey


Other than the fact that "Brotherhood of the Wolf" had a lot of  fantasy 
elements about it, the costumes were  good. I remember that  the movie was a lot 
better than I thought it would be. It played at the local  mutliplex for a long 
time.
 
The costumes in "Restoration" were very well done. A first-class film, IMO. 
 
Kathleen Norvell
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A few Historic (or Hysteric) films  I've wondered about
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At 00:46 03/03/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>In a message dated 03/02/05 10:39:46 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>celticredhead2002@yahoo.com writes:
>
>I know  these movies are a few years ago, but it was
>before I was interested in  costuming ,so I'll ask now.
>Does anyone remember if the costumes in "  Barry
>Lyndon" were any good?
>I vaguely remember the time era as  1700's.
>
>The costumes from "Barry Lyndon", IMO, were very good. If you are familiar
>with portraits of the time period, you can see where some of the costumes 
>were
>copied from the portraits.
>
>Also the  outfits in the rather, "strange", movie "The
>Brotherhood of the Wolf"  ,...how were these.

I studied a couple of these to copy for a customer. Based on originals, but 
gussied up for the film. I was told that the designer had based one of the 
garments on a coat in Kyoto, but I couldn't find anything the same.

>Last one: "Restoration"... w Meg Ryan & Rob't  Downey

This was designed by James Aitcheson, of "Dangerous Liasons" fame. He is 
generally considered to be spot on with shapes and styles, but I felt this 
was  the "fussy" end of fashion rather than the more simple - all petticoat 
breeches and ribbon trim.

Suzi





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>>> celticredhead2002@yahoo.com 03/03/2005 03:27:56 >>> wrote:

> I know these movies are a few years ago, but it was
>before I was interested in costuming ,so I'll ask now.
> Does anyone remember if the costumes in " Barry
>Lyndon" were any good?
 >I vaguely remember the time era as 1700's.

(Eagerly sticks hand up) I have first-hand knowledge of the "Barry
Lyndon" costumes, though I'm not an expert on the 18th  century. 
In 1977, when there were fewer reenactment societies than there are
now, the Sealed Knot, who normally do English Civil War, were lent
redcoat uniforms from the "Barry Lyndon" costumes in order to put on an
event commemorating John Paul Jones's raid on Whitehaven in 1777.
(Actually the military scenes in the film are set a little earlier than
that, I think around 1750.)  Some of us enjoyed it so much that we
formed a sub-group and put on 18th century mini-events for several years
afterwards. The late David Chandler, the historian, who had charge of
the costumes, let some of us borrow civilian clothes as well. I had a
dress complete with side hoops and a pair of stays. The dress was made
of a striped curtain material, used inside out so that the colours were
muted. (It was worn by one of the attendants on Lady Lyndon in the
bathing scene.) As far as I know the cut and underpinnings were
authentic. The uniforms came in two qualities depending on how near the
camera the wearer had been. The "other ranks" uniforms were not scarlet
but a dull brick-red colour, in accordance with the fact that, in
period, a cheaper dye was used for them than for officers' uniforms.

Kate Bunting
Librarian & 17th cent. reenactor

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From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A few ) films I've wondered about.... Kate & Barry Lyndon
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--- Kate M Bunting <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> wrote:

> 
> 
> >>> celticredhead2002@yahoo.com 03/03/2005 03:27:56
> >>> wrote:
> SNIP
>> > Does anyone remember if the costumes in " Barry
> >Lyndon" were any good?
>  ***Hi Kate,thanks for replying***

> (Eagerly sticks hand up) I have first-hand knowledge
> of the "Barry Lyndon" costumes, 
> b-group and put on 18th century
> . The late David Chandler, the historian,
> who had charge of the costumes, let some of us
borrow civilian clothes as well.
 **** Lucky you!****
 I had a dress complete with side hoops and a pair of
stays. The dress was made of a striped curtain
material, used inside out so that the colours were
muted. 
  *** Do you remember the cut of the dress? was it a 2
piece unit (bodice & skirt) or was it 1 piece( bodice
with skirt attached)?Since it was a"costume" I
wondered if they did seperates to fit more then 1
actress. Was the bodice waist and back both pointed?
 Laced in the back or on the sided,or front pinned?
Did it  have a stomacher?  ANy info you can remember
is great!****
  It was worn by one of the attendants on Lady
> Lyndon in the bathing scene.) As far as I know the
cut and underpinnings were authentic. 
>> > Kate Bunting
> Librarian & 17th cent. reenactor
>  ***Thanks Kate,Hope you tookpictures, if you did
will you share?****
Melody
>
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> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 



	
		
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 Hi All,
In reading a book on cloting of the past they
described a sleeve as being "Mahoitered".....
 What is this?
  Does anyone have a visual example?
 How was it done and in what time frame?
The book refered to sleeves being "mahoitered" but
then the word turns up in other area of clothing  too.
 Is this particular treatment confined to a particular
time period or country?
Thanks all.
Melody


	
		
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From: "Joanna" <joanna.hobbins@gmail.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] A Term I need explained
Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2005 12:46:49 -0500
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According to the OED:

A pad placed in the upper part of the sleeve of a garment for the purpose of
increasing the apparent breadth of the shoulders. 
 
  1834 J. R. PLANCHÉ Hist. Brit. Costume 201 The shoulders were padded out
with large waddings called mahoitres. 1846 F. W. FAIRHOLT Costume in Eng.
Gloss., Mahoitres,..the wadded and up-raised shoulders in fashion during the
fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. 1935 Times Lit. Suppl. 21 Dec. 873/1 The
mahoitres of the fifteenth-century dandy.
 
Joanna

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Melody Watts
Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2005 12:15 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] A Term I need explained


 Hi All,
In reading a book on cloting of the past they
described a sleeve as being "Mahoitered".....
 What is this?
  Does anyone have a visual example?
 How was it done and in what time frame?
The book refered to sleeves being "mahoitered" but
then the word turns up in other area of clothing  too.
 Is this particular treatment confined to a particular
time period or country?
Thanks all.
Melody


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] A Term I need explained
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> According to the OED:
>
> A pad placed in the upper part of the sleeve of a garment for the purpose
> of
> increasing the apparent breadth of the shoulders.
>
>   1834 J. R. PLANCHÉ Hist. Brit. Costume 201 The shoulders were padded out
> with large waddings called mahoitres. 1846 F. W. FAIRHOLT Costume in Eng.
> Gloss., Mahoitres,..the wadded and up-raised shoulders in fashion during
> the
> fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. 1935 Times Lit. Suppl. 21 Dec. 873/1
> The
> mahoitres of the fifteenth-century dandy.
>
> Joanna

So would that be the correct term for what they do to modern men's suits? 
You know how the shoulders are padded internally?

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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From: "Cindy Abel" <brujne@creighton.edu>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] A Term I need explained
Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2005 12:54:37 -0600
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I've also seen the term spelled Malhoitres or Malhoitered. I've seen it
mentioned in English fashion magazines. It was kind of a mannered way of
specifying sleeves that were padded out to resemble the similar mid-late
fifteenth century sleeves as worn by the rich and fashionable males only.
The Romantic era(1820-1840) in England and France was very big on bringing
medieval and Renaissance influences back into fashion in clothing and art.

Hope this helps

Cindy Abel 

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Joanna
Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2005 11:47 AM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: RE: [h-cost] A Term I need explained

According to the OED:

A pad placed in the upper part of the sleeve of a garment for the purpose of
increasing the apparent breadth of the shoulders. 
 
  1834 J. R. PLANCHÉ Hist. Brit. Costume 201 The shoulders were padded out
with large waddings called mahoitres. 1846 F. W. FAIRHOLT Costume in Eng.
Gloss., Mahoitres,..the wadded and up-raised shoulders in fashion during the
fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. 1935 Times Lit. Suppl. 21 Dec. 873/1 The
mahoitres of the fifteenth-century dandy.
 
Joanna

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Melody Watts
Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2005 12:15 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] A Term I need explained


 Hi All,
In reading a book on cloting of the past they described a sleeve as being
"Mahoitered".....
 What is this?
  Does anyone have a visual example?
 How was it done and in what time frame?
The book refered to sleeves being "mahoitered" but then the word turns up in
other area of clothing  too.
 Is this particular treatment confined to a particular time period or
country?
Thanks all.
Melody


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In a message dated 3/3/2005 1:47:47 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
dch@inreach.com writes:

So would  that be the correct term for what they do to modern men's suits? 
You know  how the shoulders are padded internally?




Perhaps only in eras where the shoulder line is really exaggerated?   Right 
now, I would say the padding is just to give a smooth line, but not  
particularly full.
 
Ann Wass
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Oh, thanks so much for this wonderful word! I read these postings in my office in the English department of my university and immediately shared "mahoitre" with a colleague in the next office. We decided it would be a wonderful thing to call somebody--as my colleague suggested, a sort of "stuffed shirt" (oh, you old mahoiter!).

Then I realized we already do say to people "oh, don't be so hoity-toity."

Back to dictionary:
The OED gives this etymology for mahoitre:
[< French mahoître (also maheutre; 15th cent. in Middle French; 13th cent. in Old French as mahustre in sense ‘shoulder, upper arm’; cf. Anglo-Norman mahustre, mahutre upper arm); further etymology disputed.]

According to the OED, the term “hoity-toity” didn’t appear in print until the late 1600s, but at that time it bore two meanings: “romping” and the “assumption of superiority, ‘airs’, huffiness.” The American Heritage dictionary defines “hoity-toity” as “puffed up, pompous”—so, do you suppose that somewhere in the Unacknowledged etymology of “hoity-toity” (only mentioned are words meaning “high”) is this stuffed-shirt “mahoitre”? (or at least might it share some of mahoitre's own etymology?)

Here's to Etymology! Here's to TAILORING YOUR VOCABULARY?

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

 
-----Original Message-----
From: Diana Habra <dch@inreach.com>
Sent: Mar 3, 2005 1:44 PM
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] A Term I need explained


> According to the OED:
>
> A pad placed in the upper part of the sleeve of a garment for the purpose
> of
> increasing the apparent breadth of the shoulders.
>
>   1834 J. R. PLANCHÉ Hist. Brit. Costume 201 The shoulders were padded out
> with large waddings called mahoitres. 1846 F. W. FAIRHOLT Costume in Eng.
> Gloss., Mahoitres,..the wadded and up-raised shoulders in fashion during
> the
> fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. 1935 Times Lit. Suppl. 21 Dec. 873/1
> The
> mahoitres of the fifteenth-century dandy.
>
> Joanna

So would that be the correct term for what they do to modern men's suits? 
You know how the shoulders are padded internally?

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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Very cool....love words. It is definately NOT what we do to men's 
jackets. I have a few pictures of these in period portraiture and have 
constructed them. They can become quite huge. If you like I can send you 
some pictures of them....I think you might be a little surprised at how 
big they were!

Sg

ruthanneb@mindspring.com wrote:

>Oh, thanks so much for this wonderful word! I read these postings in my office in the English department of my university and immediately shared "mahoitre" with a colleague in the next office. We decided it would be a wonderful thing to call somebody--as my colleague suggested, a sort of "stuffed shirt" (oh, you old mahoiter!).
>
>Then I realized we already do say to people "oh, don't be so hoity-toity."
>
>Back to dictionary:
>The OED gives this etymology for mahoitre:
>[< French mahoître (also maheutre; 15th cent. in Middle French; 13th cent. in Old French as mahustre in sense ‘shoulder, upper arm’; cf. Anglo-Norman mahustre, mahutre upper arm); further etymology disputed.]
>
>According to the OED, the term “hoity-toity” didn’t appear in print until the late 1600s, but at that time it bore two meanings: “romping” and the “assumption of superiority, ‘airs’, huffiness.” The American Heritage dictionary defines “hoity-toity” as “puffed up, pompous”—so, do you suppose that somewhere in the Unacknowledged etymology of “hoity-toity” (only mentioned are words meaning “high”) is this stuffed-shirt “mahoitre”? (or at least might it share some of mahoitre's own etymology?)
>
>Here's to Etymology! Here's to TAILORING YOUR VOCABULARY?
>
>--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
>scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
>
> 
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Diana Habra <dch@inreach.com>
>Sent: Mar 3, 2005 1:44 PM
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: RE: [h-cost] A Term I need explained
>
>
>  
>
>>According to the OED:
>>
>>A pad placed in the upper part of the sleeve of a garment for the purpose
>>of
>>increasing the apparent breadth of the shoulders.
>>
>>  1834 J. R. PLANCHÉ Hist. Brit. Costume 201 The shoulders were padded out
>>with large waddings called mahoitres. 1846 F. W. FAIRHOLT Costume in Eng.
>>Gloss., Mahoitres,..the wadded and up-raised shoulders in fashion during
>>the
>>fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. 1935 Times Lit. Suppl. 21 Dec. 873/1
>>The
>>mahoitres of the fifteenth-century dandy.
>>
>>Joanna
>>    
>>
>
>So would that be the correct term for what they do to modern men's suits? 
>You know how the shoulders are padded internally?
>
>Diana
>
>www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
>"Everything for the Costumer"
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>  
>
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Ok, I admit I've spent too much time browsing ebay this week....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=4156&item=8174950485&rd=1

Is that a historical design or what?



Dawn

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] have a look at this costume
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> Ok, I admit I've spent too much time browsing ebay this week....
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=4156&item=8174950485&rd=1
>
> Is that a historical design or what?
>
Did you check out the seller's other item for sale?

 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=1467&item=5562898198&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

I think someone else has too much time on his hands.

Sylrog
>


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: Fw: RE: [h-cost] A Term I need explained
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I'd love to see a some pictures. --RAB

-----Original Message-----
From: Wicked Frau <wickedfrau@earthlink.net>
Sent: Mar 3, 2005 6:01 PM
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: Fw: RE: [h-cost] A Term I need explained

Very cool....love words. It is definately NOT what we do to men's 
jackets. I have a few pictures of these in period portraiture and have 
constructed them. They can become quite huge. If you like I can send you 
some pictures of them....I think you might be a little surprised at how 
big they were!

Sg

ruthanneb@mindspring.com wrote:

>Oh, thanks so much for this wonderful word! I read these postings in my office in the English department of my university and immediately shared "mahoitre" with a colleague in the next office. We decided it would be a wonderful thing to call somebody--as my colleague suggested, a sort of "stuffed shirt" (oh, you old mahoiter!).
>
>Then I realized we already do say to people "oh, don't be so hoity-toity."
>
>Back to dictionary:
>The OED gives this etymology for mahoitre:
>[< French mahoître (also maheutre; 15th cent. in Middle French; 13th cent. in Old French as mahustre in sense ?shoulder, upper arm?; cf. Anglo-Norman mahustre, mahutre upper arm); further etymology disputed.]
>
>According to the OED, the term ?hoity-toity? didn?t appear in print until the late 1600s, but at that time it bore two meanings: ?romping? and the ?assumption of superiority, ?airs?, huffiness.? The American Heritage dictionary defines ?hoity-toity? as ?puffed up, pompous??so, do you suppose that somewhere in the Unacknowledged etymology of ?hoity-toity? (only mentioned are words meaning ?high?) is this stuffed-shirt ?mahoitre?? (or at least might it share some of mahoitre's own etymology?)
>
>Here's to Etymology! Here's to TAILORING YOUR VOCABULARY?
>
>--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
>scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
>
> 
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Diana Habra <dch@inreach.com>
>Sent: Mar 3, 2005 1:44 PM
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: RE: [h-cost] A Term I need explained
>
>
>  
>
>>According to the OED:
>>
>>A pad placed in the upper part of the sleeve of a garment for the purpose
>>of
>>increasing the apparent breadth of the shoulders.
>>
>>  1834 J. R. PLANCHÉ Hist. Brit. Costume 201 The shoulders were padded out
>>with large waddings called mahoitres. 1846 F. W. FAIRHOLT Costume in Eng.
>>Gloss., Mahoitres,..the wadded and up-raised shoulders in fashion during
>>the
>>fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. 1935 Times Lit. Suppl. 21 Dec. 873/1
>>The
>>mahoitres of the fifteenth-century dandy.
>>
>>Joanna
>>    
>>
>
>So would that be the correct term for what they do to modern men's suits? 
>You know how the shoulders are padded internally?
>
>Diana
>
>www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
>"Everything for the Costumer"
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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>
>_______________________________________________
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>  
>
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On Thursday 03 March 2005 7:23 pm, sylvia@ntw.net wrote:
> > Ok, I admit I've spent too much time browsing ebay this week....
> >
> > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=4156&item=81749504
> >85&rd=1
> >
> > Is that a historical design or what?

And the best part is that it's the only design I've ever seen that's correct 
for all periods.  :-)

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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Here is one:  
http://www.forum-hes.nl/forum/main_stocklist.phtml/view/5959?view=yes
I had forgotten that I posted a very similar query in 2003 to several 
lists.  I am looking for other pictures.  Could have sworn I had a whole 
collection of them...now I must find them!  A quest! 

Sg

ruthanneb@mindspring.com wrote:

>I'd love to see a some pictures. --RAB
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Wicked Frau <wickedfrau@earthlink.net>
>Sent: Mar 3, 2005 6:01 PM
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: Fw: RE: [h-cost] A Term I need explained
>
>Very cool....love words. It is definately NOT what we do to men's 
>jackets. I have a few pictures of these in period portraiture and have 
>constructed them. They can become quite huge. If you like I can send you 
>some pictures of them....I think you might be a little surprised at how 
>big they were!
>
>Sg
>
>ruthanneb@mindspring.com wrote:
>
>  
>
>>Oh, thanks so much for this wonderful word! I read these postings in my office in the English department of my university and immediately shared "mahoitre" with a colleague in the next office. We decided it would be a wonderful thing to call somebody--as my colleague suggested, a sort of "stuffed shirt" (oh, you old mahoiter!).
>>
>>Then I realized we already do say to people "oh, don't be so hoity-toity."
>>
>>Back to dictionary:
>>The OED gives this etymology for mahoitre:
>>[< French mahoître (also maheutre; 15th cent. in Middle French; 13th cent. in Old French as mahustre in sense ?shoulder, upper arm?; cf. Anglo-Norman mahustre, mahutre upper arm); further etymology disputed.]
>>
>>According to the OED, the term ?hoity-toity? didn?t appear in print until the late 1600s, but at that time it bore two meanings: ?romping? and the ?assumption of superiority, ?airs?, huffiness.? The American Heritage dictionary defines ?hoity-toity? as ?puffed up, pompous??so, do you suppose that somewhere in the Unacknowledged etymology of ?hoity-toity? (only mentioned are words meaning ?high?) is this stuffed-shirt ?mahoitre?? (or at least might it share some of mahoitre's own etymology?)
>>
>>Here's to Etymology! Here's to TAILORING YOUR VOCABULARY?
>>
>>--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
>>scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Diana Habra <dch@inreach.com>
>>Sent: Mar 3, 2005 1:44 PM
>>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>>Subject: RE: [h-cost] A Term I need explained
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>>    
>>
>>>According to the OED:
>>>
>>>A pad placed in the upper part of the sleeve of a garment for the purpose
>>>of
>>>increasing the apparent breadth of the shoulders.
>>>
>>> 1834 J. R. PLANCHÉ Hist. Brit. Costume 201 The shoulders were padded out
>>>with large waddings called mahoitres. 1846 F. W. FAIRHOLT Costume in Eng.
>>>Gloss., Mahoitres,..the wadded and up-raised shoulders in fashion during
>>>the
>>>fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. 1935 Times Lit. Suppl. 21 Dec. 873/1
>>>The
>>>mahoitres of the fifteenth-century dandy.
>>>
>>>Joanna
>>>   
>>>
>>>      
>>>
>>So would that be the correct term for what they do to modern men's suits? 
>>You know how the shoulders are padded internally?
>>
>>Diana
>>
>>www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
>>"Everything for the Costumer"
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>> 
>>
>>    
>>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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>
>
>_______________________________________________
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>  
>
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In a message dated 3/3/2005 7:23:26 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
dawn@reddawn.net writes:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=4156&item=8174950485&rd
=1




Aren't they lovely?
 
Ann Wass
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>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=4156&item=8174950485&rd=1
>
>Is that a historical design or what?

Ooh, look at all the embroidery.  Look at the beautiful fabric.  Etc.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
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> 
> In a message dated 3/2/2005 12:22:51 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> ewalpole@iimetro.com.au writes:
> 
> rump' so  does anybody know of a good
> (online) pattern for  this?
> 
> 
> C'mon! You don't need a pattern! It's a crescent shape. It stops just at  the
> front of the hips. [so the waist measurement of the inside curve is maybe 2"
> or 3" more than 1/2 your waist measurement.] No padding in front.

Ah so it is the same shape as the bum roll Elizabethan costumers like to use, I got the impression it was more sort of heart shaped with the padding concentrated over the hips (to the side) and little to no padding at the back.
If that's all it is I may as well make use of the bumroll in Simplicity 8881 (the shakespeare in Love dress) as I've used the bodice and sleeve sections of the pattern but nothing else.
Thanks
Elizabeth

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> Ok, I admit I've spent too much time browsing ebay this week....
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=4156&item=8174950485&rd=1
> 
> Is that a historical design or what?
> 
> 
> 
> Dawn

Sure it is, nakedness is always period it's other people's reaction to that nakedness that changes between time periods and cultures

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Greetings.

I've never used dylon dyes and need to dye a piece of linen. Has anyone dyed 
fabric in a washing machine using dylon? The instructions call for using a 
bowl, but I've got too large a piece of linen to dye.

Help, please!

Thanks so much.

kate
PS--the package says that it's a permanent dye. Just how permanent is 
permanent? I know that Rit often bleeds... 


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>I've never used dylon dyes and need to dye a piece of linen. Has anyone 
>dyed fabric in a washing machine using dylon? The instructions call for 
>using a bowl, but I've got too large a piece of linen to dye.

I think there are machine instructions too.  Can you get Dylon hot-water 
dye in the US?  I can't anymore.

I find Dylon permanent and true to color - if it says black, it means 
black, etc.  And you can dye plastic buttons with it, if you simmer them in 
the dye bath for like half an hour.  You can either get the color you want 
or a good tint of it, depending on the plastic of the button.  I even made 
white plastic dice look like bone ones, using Dylon, for use at Ren. Faire.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Fw: RE: [h-cost] A Term I need explained ..."hello,
	I think I got left out....."
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Hello? (waves)
That was my "word" and question. So, could you please
send me thoses examples too....as the original book I
found the word in had pen & ink drawings of sleeves I
would have called "paned"or "those stuft roll thingys
at the sleeve heads" and refered to them as
"mahoitered".
Melody

--- Wicked Frau <wickedfrau@earthlink.net> wrote:

> Very cool....love words. It is definately NOT what
> we do to men's 
> jackets. I have a few pictures of these in period
> portraiture and have 
> constructed them. They can become quite huge. If you
> like I can send you 
> some pictures of them....I think you might be a
> little surprised at how 
> big they were!
> 
> Sg
> 
> ruthanneb@mindspring.com wrote:
> 
> >Oh, thanks so much for this wonderful word! I read
> these postings in my office in the English
> department of my university and immediately shared
> "mahoitre" with a colleague in the next office. We
> decided it would be a wonderful thing to call
> somebody--as my colleague suggested, a sort of
> "stuffed shirt" (oh, you old mahoiter!).
> >
> >Then I realized we already do say to people "oh,
> don't be so hoity-toity."
> >
> >Back to dictionary:
> >The OED gives this etymology for mahoitre:
> >[< French mahoître (also maheutre; 15th cent. in
> Middle French; 13th cent. in Old French as mahustre
> in sense ‘shoulder, upper arm’; cf. Anglo-Norman
> mahustre, mahutre upper arm); further etymology
> disputed.]
> >
> >According to the OED, the term “hoity-toity” didn’t
> appear in print until the late 1600s, but at that
> time it bore two meanings: “romping” and the
> “assumption of superiority, ‘airs’, huffiness.” The
> American Heritage dictionary defines “hoity-toity”
> as “puffed up, pompous”—so, do you suppose that
> somewhere in the Unacknowledged etymology of
> “hoity-toity” (only mentioned are words meaning
> “high”) is this stuffed-shirt “mahoitre”? (or at
> least might it share some of mahoitre's own
> etymology?)
> >
> >Here's to Etymology! Here's to TAILORING YOUR
> VOCABULARY?
> >
> >--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> >scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
> >
> > 
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Diana Habra <dch@inreach.com>
> >Sent: Mar 3, 2005 1:44 PM
> >To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> >Subject: RE: [h-cost] A Term I need explained
> >
> >
> >  
> >
> >>According to the OED:
> >>
> >>A pad placed in the upper part of the sleeve of a
> garment for the purpose
> >>of
> >>increasing the apparent breadth of the shoulders.
> >>
> >>  1834 J. R. PLANCHÉ Hist. Brit. Costume 201 The
> shoulders were padded out
> >>with large waddings called mahoitres. 1846 F. W.
> FAIRHOLT Costume in Eng.
> >>Gloss., Mahoitres,..the wadded and up-raised
> shoulders in fashion during
> >>the
> >>fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. 1935 Times Lit.
> Suppl. 21 Dec. 873/1
> >>The
> >>mahoitres of the fifteenth-century dandy.
> >>
> >>Joanna
> >>    
> >>
> >
> >So would that be the correct term for what they do
> to modern men's suits? 
> >You know how the shoulders are padded internally?
> >
> >Diana
> >
> >www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
> >"Everything for the Costumer"
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >h-costume mailing list
> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >
> >_______________________________________________
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> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >  
> >
> _______________________________________________
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> 



	
		
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	<005f01c52071$2f6e05a0$2f02a8c0@Duncan>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] dylon dye 
Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2005 22:10:23 +1300
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ah.. linen... well I wouldn't recommend cold dye then but would otherwise
recommend dylon.

I would double the amount of dye said to be needed, I find it gives a deeper
and richer effect.

In fact with the cold water dylon my recommendation is to use half a litre
of liquid and paint it on damp fabric with a broad paintdrush, leave it to
dry and then wash it out.

If the instructions say to use a bowl, then you have the cold water dye, and
I wouldn't recommend a washing machine. They do make dyes for the washing
machine though.

So my experiences:
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/phantom/blue.htm
Dylon multipurpose in a large stock pot on the stove, piece by piece. Making
sure I would do the whole bodice, then the drapery then the skirt so any
inconsistency in dyeing was not noticeable.
Cotton and polyester brocade. If I dyed it too many times, the polyester
went a funny colour, it absorbed the greens from the blue dye.

http://costumes.glittersweet.com/movies/poison.htm
Dylon Multipurpose on the stove. Good for acheiving a fade from one colour
to another just altering heat of dyebath and length of time in the bath.
nylon lycra, took the colour *very* well.

http://costumes.glittersweet.com/movies/ladym.htm
Dylon Multipurpose dye.
Good even coverage over a dark brown viscose. Navy blue turned the fabric a
dark licorice black.

http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/valois.htm
Dylon cold water dye. Silk just dipped and swished in a 40litre plastic
container to make the pale lilac of the inner sleeves.
2pots of dye with the right salts and mixed to just 500ml of water (two cups
or thereabouts) and painted on the silk to get the proper purple (that was
supposed to be got from the dye) on the farthingale.
I found I did not have the ability to aggitate the dye bath as much as it
was needed to to prevent blotchiness so painting was the best solution.

And just now:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/glittersweet/costume/1570fabrictest.jpg
one cold water dye in 1L of water with salts 5min bath and washed. This is
likely to be a rayon mix if not pure rayon.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/glittersweet/costume/1570fabricsa.jpg
the top is the colour of the linen originally, the bottom is the linen after
several dyebaths involving about 7 pots of dye for 5m of 150cm wide fabric
(about 5 yards of 60" wide fabric)

The change is subtle. And I suspect a multipurpose dyebath would be better
as it uses heat.

michaela
http://glittersweet.com



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>>> celticredhead2002@yahoo.com 03/03/2005 17:05:16 >>> wrote:

  *** Do you remember the cut of the dress? was it a 2
piece unit (bodice & skirt) or was it 1 piece( bodice
with skirt attached)?Since it was a"costume" I
wondered if they did seperates to fit more then 1
actress. Was the bodice waist and back both pointed?
 Laced in the back or on the sided,or front pinned?
Did it  have a stomacher?  ANy info you can remember
is great!****
It wasn't a two-piece in that sense. There was a pale pink underskirt;
the overdress was cut without a waist seam at the centre back (I believe
the period term was "en fourreau"). I can't remember exactly how the
bodice was in front, but there wasn't a separate stomacher, and I think
it closed with hooks. The waist came to a point over the gap where the
underskirt showed.
There are one or two photos of me in it, but nothing accessible online,
I'm afraid (it was more than twenty years ago!)

Kate

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I think I will just go ahead and post them on my website this eveing.  
It may be easier. 

Sg  :)


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	<4227d16ad44bb7.79812774@iimetro.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century \'bum roll\'
Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2005 08:01:34 -0500
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I think this one is in the lovely box of goodies found on e-bay.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <ewalpole@iimetro.com.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2005 10:09 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century \'bum roll\'


> >
> > In a message dated 3/2/2005 12:22:51 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> > ewalpole@iimetro.com.au writes:
> >
> > rump' so  does anybody know of a good
> > (online) pattern for  this?
> >
> >
> > C'mon! You don't need a pattern! It's a crescent shape. It stops just at
the
> > front of the hips. [so the waist measurement of the inside curve is
maybe 2"
> > or 3" more than 1/2 your waist measurement.] No padding in front.
>
> Ah so it is the same shape as the bum roll Elizabethan costumers like to
use, I got the impression it was more sort of heart shaped with the padding
concentrated over the hips (to the side) and little to no padding at the
back.
> If that's all it is I may as well make use of the bumroll in Simplicity
8881 (the shakespeare in Love dress) as I've used the bodice and sleeve
sections of the pattern but nothing else.
> Thanks
> Elizabeth
>
> _______________________________________________
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	<200503032027.50959.cathy@thyrsus.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] have a look at this costume
Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2005 07:59:53 -0500
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This is Gorgeous!!!  I might make a bid afterall.  It suits all taste.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Catherine Olanich Raymond" <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2005 8:27 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] have a look at this costume


> On Thursday 03 March 2005 7:23 pm, sylvia@ntw.net wrote:
> > > Ok, I admit I've spent too much time browsing ebay this week....
> > >
> > >
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=4156&item=81749504
> > >85&rd=1
> > >
> > > Is that a historical design or what?
>
> And the best part is that it's the only design I've ever seen that's
correct
> for all periods.  :-)
>
> -- 
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>
> "Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] dylon dye
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>>I've never used dylon dyes and need to dye a piece of linen. Has anyone
>>dyed fabric in a washing machine using dylon? The instructions call for
>>using a bowl, but I've got too large a piece of linen to dye.
>
>I think there are machine instructions too.  Can you get Dylon hot-water
>dye in the US?  I can't anymore.
>
>I find Dylon permanent and true to color - if it says black, it means
>black, etc.  And you can dye plastic buttons with it, if you simmer them in
>the dye bath for like half an hour.  You can either get the color you want
>or a good tint of it, depending on the plastic of the button.  I even made
>white plastic dice look like bone ones, using Dylon, for use at Ren. Faire.

so where does one get this wondrous stuff?  I have a need to RE-dye a faded 
black doublet/jerkin .....

Jerusha (who sortof changed email addresses -- but not really)

-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Botany Department, University of Tennessee
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium

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Susan Farmer wrote:
>>I think there are machine instructions too.  Can you get Dylon hot-water
>>dye in the US?  I can't anymore.
> 
> 
> so where does one get this wondrous stuff?  I have a need to RE-dye a faded 
> black doublet/jerkin .....

I got my original boxes from Teddy as part of the Great Dye Experiment* 
several years ago. I have since ordered Dylon Machine Dye from the UK
http://www.sewandso.co.uk/ran840-0.html

I have a large Kenmore front-loader, theoretically modeled on German 
front loaders. This Dylon Dye (not available in the US) and my machine 
do a great job dying large jobs. No residue, even color, seems to be 
mostly color fast (cotton and linen dyed so far).

liz young

*Several of us on the list in the US received boxes of Dylon Machine Dye 
from Teddy (I think Teddy sent them all) and tried the dye in our 
American machines. I know it worked in front-loaders and worked some of 
the time in top-loaders. "Dylon Machine Dye" in the archives ought to 
get you the thread.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] dylon dye
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Michaela, I don't know whether I am more impressed by your dying techniques, your costumes or your website.  All I can say is WOW I AM impressed!  Gone are the days when my figure would allow me to wear some of the things you do, but I agree about the Elizabeth of Valois gown.  There is a red one that I used to have posted on my file cabinet to copy some day.  That lady died young, but had style.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz> wrote:

From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2005 22:10:23 +1300
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] dylon dye

ah.. linen... well I wouldn't recommend cold dye then but would otherwise
recommend dylon.

I would double the amount of dye said to be needed, I find it gives a deeper
and richer effect.

In fact with the cold water dylon my recommendation is to use half a litre
of liquid and paint it on damp fabric with a broad paintdrush, leave it to
dry and then wash it out.

If the instructions say to use a bowl, then you have the cold water dye, and
I wouldn't recommend a washing machine. They do make dyes for the washing
machine though.

So my experiences:
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/phantom/blue.htm
Dylon multipurpose in a large stock pot on the stove, piece by piece. Making
sure I would do the whole bodice, then the drapery then the skirt so any
inconsistency in dyeing was not noticeable.
Cotton and polyester brocade. If I dyed it too many times, the polyester
went a funny colour, it absorbed the greens from the blue dye.

http://costumes.glittersweet.com/movies/poison.htm
Dylon Multipurpose on the stove. Good for acheiving a fade from one colour
to another just altering heat of dyebath and length of time in the bath.
nylon lycra, took the colour *very* well.

http://costumes.glittersweet.com/movies/ladym.htm
Dylon Multipurpose dye.
Good even coverage over a dark brown viscose. Navy blue turned the fabric a
dark licorice black.

http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/valois.htm
Dylon cold water dye. Silk just dipped and swished in a 40litre plastic
container to make the pale lilac of the inner sleeves.
2pots of dye with the right salts and mixed to just 500ml of water (two cups
or thereabouts) and painted on the silk to get the proper purple (that was
supposed to be got from the dye) on the farthingale.
I found I did not have the ability to aggitate the dye bath as much as it
was needed to to prevent blotchiness so painting was the best solution.

And just now:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/glittersweet/costume/1570fabrictest.jpg
one cold water dye in 1L of water with salts 5min bath and washed. This is
likely to be a rayon mix if not pure rayon.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/glittersweet/costume/1570fabricsa.jpg
the top is the colour of the linen originally, the bottom is the linen after
several dyebaths involving about 7 pots of dye for 5m of 150cm wide fabric
(about 5 yards of 60" wide fabric)

The change is subtle. And I suspect a multipurpose dyebath would be better
as it uses heat.

michaela
http://glittersweet.com



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Can anyone comment on these books and what is inside them? Are they good 
source material? I am considering purchasing them as general additions 
to my book collection, but I know nothing about them. I'm guessing that 
they are reprints of older titles.


* Ancient Greek, Roman and Byzantine Costume by Mary G. Houston. 
Softcover -Dover Publications 2003.

* Costume in Greek Classic Drama by Iris Brooke. Dover- 2003.


Would love to hear from someone who has copies.



Dawn


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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] ancient Greek costume books
Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2005 13:15:23 -0500
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Hi Dawn,

Stay away from Iris Brooke. Especially if you're not very familiar with the
period.

 As for the Mary Houston, I have a copy of the 2nd version (I think).  Do
you know if the Dover is a reprint of the 1931 version (106 pages b&w line
drawings) or  the 1947 version (182 pages, some of them pasted on colour
plates)?  Both of them are fairly reasonable, still have a couple of
victorianisms but very well done for the time.  If I remember properly this
is the 2nd book of a series where Medieval Costume in England and France is
the 3rd.

You might try your local library to see if they have copies of the
originals.  Of my local librararies, all but one have the iris brooke
(sigh), 5 of them have one or the other version and 4 of them have both.
But then again I live in the city with the highest number of post-secondary
educational institutions in North America, YMMV.

Cheers,

Joanna

PS You might find an original print (1st or 2nd edition) in a second hand
shop.

  
-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Friday, March 04, 2005 12:31 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] ancient Greek costume books


Can anyone comment on these books and what is inside them? Are they good 
source material? I am considering purchasing them as general additions 
to my book collection, but I know nothing about them. I'm guessing that 
they are reprints of older titles.


* Ancient Greek, Roman and Byzantine Costume by Mary G. Houston. 
Softcover -Dover Publications 2003.

* Costume in Greek Classic Drama by Iris Brooke. Dover- 2003.


Would love to hear from someone who has copies.



Dawn


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Mar  4 14:07:59 2005
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 	Has anyone seen or heard anything about the Fashion and Style 
books by Althea MacKenzie and Richard Blakey on the Snowshill collection? 
They all have the description "...from Snowshill, one of the world's 
leading collections of costume and accessories of the 18th and 19th 
centuries."

 	According to Barnes and Noble they were all published in September 
2004 and the titles I see listed so far are
-Hats and Bonnets
-Embroideries
-Buttons and Trimmings
-Shoes and Slippers

 	Amazon has no real description of the contents and B&N has short 
blurbs for only the hats and shoes books.  The cover pictures are 
tempting.


annora
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I just received all of them.  They are rather small books of pictures 
with long captions, mostly pictures of details of clothing and 
accessories rather than entire garments.  Mostly women's clothes and 
accessories, a few men's particularly in the _Embroideries_ book.  
Mostly mid 18th to mid 19th centuries. The books are well produced..

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com

lisa wrote:

>     Has anyone seen or heard anything about the Fashion and Style 
> books by Althea MacKenzie and Richard Blakey on the Snowshill 
> collection? They all have the description "...from Snowshill, one of 
> the world's leading collections of costume and accessories of the 18th 
> and 19th centuries."
>
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Funny you should mention Barry Lyndon, the spousal unit and I just watched it last week.  It is kind of like looking at a living picture from the 18th century.  Marisa Berenson (lady Lyndon), who is one of the transcendental beauties of the age looks so like period portraits from Gainsboro and others.  The big hair in several scencs is wonderful.  

I seem to remember, from when the movie originallyu came out that some of the dresses she wore  WERE ORIGINALS.  I can't verify this 30 some year old memory.  

After several years studying 18th century clothing and doing the living history/reenactor thing, the whole look of the film is right on target.  It  fits into my category of  "real thing", no matter what materials they used to make the garments


		
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I have generally found Iris Brooke very unreliable (my opinion). I don't 
use or own any of her books.

Houston has a good reputation.
         "An unabridged republication of the second edition of Ancient 
Greek, Roman and Byzantine Costume and Decoration published in 1947". 182p, 
315 b/w and col illus (Dover 2003) ISBN 0486426106. Paperback. Price US $12.95

I got one a couple of month's ago that was very good with documentation, 
images and such, but no diagrams. I've just skimmed through it. It's down 
in the library and I can get the biblio and more detail for you if you need it.

And one not yet published that might be of interest:
<http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm/ID/42566>The Clothed Body in the 
Ancient World edited by Liza Cleland, Mary Harlow and Lloyd Llewellyn-Jones
... highlighting common themes in scholarship, methodological differences 
between disciplines and periods, as well as contrasting definitions of what 
constitutes the clothed body. Essays discussing Aegean Bronze Age fashions, 
costume design in filmed biblical epics, clothing in Aristophanic comedy, 
Greek and Roman female undergarments, the symbolism of the Roman toga, and 
the spectacle of images of Byzantine dress, are just some of the diverse ...
Hardback. Not yet published - advance orders taken. Publisher's Price 
US$56.00, DBBC Price US$44.00

Hope this helps.
Beth

At 01:02 PM 3/4/2005, you wrote:
>Date: Fri, 04 Mar 2005 11:30:58 -0600
>From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
>Subject: [h-cost] ancient Greek costume books
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Message-ID: <42289B52.9040904@reddawn.net>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
>
>Can anyone comment on these books and what is inside them? Are they good
>source material? I am considering purchasing them as general additions
>to my book collection, but I know nothing about them. I'm guessing that
>they are reprints of older titles.
>
>
>* Ancient Greek, Roman and Byzantine Costume by Mary G. Houston.
>Softcover -Dover Publications 2003.
>
>* Costume in Greek Classic Drama by Iris Brooke. Dover- 2003.
>
>
>Would love to hear from someone who has copies.
>
>
>
>Dawn

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Greetings All!

You know those wonderful frilly beribboned Bed Jackets/Dressing Gowns that a lady would have eaten her breakfast in while still in her room?  Well, i am looking for some photos of one.  Does anyone have any suggestions of where I can find some?

I am also looking for men's dressing gowns/smoking jackets.  But think 1800's rather than 1900's.  You know something that Byronic Set would have worn while smoking opium or sitting in their own study in casual comfort.

Any and all help is appreciated!

Thanks in Advance,
Kit
If you walk a mile in someone else's shoes, do you get to keep them? - Kenneth Cole


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Hi!!

I usually do Elizabethian, but an occasion has come up and I need to
make up a more early period dress. I was wondering if anyone could
recommend a good pattern for sideless surcoats and cotehardies.

Thanks!
Moon
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Mar  4 23:27:38 2005
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: BArry Lyndon
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>After several years studying 18th century clothing and doing the living 
>history/reenactor thing, the whole look of the film is right on target.

My recollection is that Barry Lyndon, as slow-moving as it was on screen, 
was just what the writers of those interminable old novels were trying to 
do.  the books would pan across the scenery for half a chapter, and the 
film did that too.  Much prettier on screen.  Otherwise, I avoid novels 
like that.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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On Friday 04 March 2005 2:07 pm, lisa wrote:
>   Has anyone seen or heard anything about the Fashion and Style
> books by Althea MacKenzie and Richard Blakey on the Snowshill collection?
> They all have the description "...from Snowshill, one of the world's
> leading collections of costume and accessories of the 18th and 19th
> centuries."
>
>   According to Barnes and Noble they were all published in September
> 2004 and the titles I see listed so far are
> -Hats and Bonnets
> -Embroideries
> -Buttons and Trimmings
> -Shoes and Slippers
>
>   Amazon has no real description of the contents and B&N has short
> blurbs for only the hats and shoes books.  The cover pictures are
> tempting.

They are being carried in a bookstore near me.  They are $19.95 USD apiece and 
fairly short (about 80 pp apiece I think) but they contain good color 
pictures and a fair number of them given the size, and good descriptive text.  
If they were about $5 apiece less I would have bought at least 2 of the set 
by now.  As things are, I'll probably wait a bit to buy them. 


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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Subject: [h-cost] linen and scarves
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I have just been viewing the new items to be found at the Dhama site and was impressed with the new scarves; and that they have hankie Linen now available with a 60/40 linen and cotton weave.The price is under $9 a yard.  Also a new cotton twill. The Devore scarves present several possibilities...

kathleen
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sideless Surcoat
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There is a web page for the cotehardie, just spent 10 minutes hunting through 
myfavorites and cant find it right nowbut if I am not mistaken one of the 
h-cost persons sent it to me.Was great with bth design for paper pattern or a 
drape and pin explaination.
I will check my computer at school to see if I hid it there. sorry not more 
help.theresa
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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I got two of the books as a pressent. One with embroidery and another with 
buttons and trimmings.
They are lovely lovely, and has pictures i never have seen before. Lots of 
inspirations to get.
Another friend emailed me with photos taken in Paris from an antique shop. 
Showing 4 wonderfull gentlemens wallets embroidered and for my period. 
Actually i could make the same embroidery as the suit and waistcoat and use 
it on a wallet two. So i have plans.............

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: BArry Lyndon
Date: Sat, 5 Mar 2005 16:02:08 +0100
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Hear hear,
I totally agree with you, also the very special mood troughout the whole 
film. I love the story tellers voice and language, soo beautifull..........
Ulla Britt Søderlund, made some of the costumes for the movie. I have ben 
fortunate to talk to her once at a lecture where Janet Arnold was speaking. 
Stanley Kubric chose her for the costumes because he had seen the films 
about the imigrants from Sweden, dont recall what the series was called in 
english, wich she also made costumes for, because as he said, the costumes 
are clothes and not costumes........... wich was a very fine thing to say.
For Barry Lyndon she used original garments, wich was used for making new 
costumes. She also spended all her free time embroidering buttons for 
gentlemens coats. Many of the silks was boiled to get the pale colours and 
softness. I told her that i was in awe of her skills and that Barry Lyndon 
had given me such a kick, but the only thing she replyed was did you see the 
wings i made for the angel for (a swedish film i dont think you know). She 
was so proud of those angel wings, and i thoaght well well......... Very 
shorly after this, she died from canser only about 40 years old.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mia Dappert" <snappylunch_2001@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, March 04, 2005 9:05 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: BArry Lyndon


>
> Funny you should mention Barry Lyndon, the spousal unit and I just watched 
> it last week.  It is kind of like looking at a living picture from the 
> 18th century.  Marisa Berenson (lady Lyndon), who is one of the 
> transcendental beauties of the age looks so like period portraits from 
> Gainsboro and others.  The big hair in several scencs is wonderful.
>
> I seem to remember, from when the movie originallyu came out that some of 
> the dresses she wore  WERE ORIGINALS.  I can't verify this 30 some year 
> old memory.
>
> After several years studying 18th century clothing and doing the living 
> history/reenactor thing, the whole look of the film is right on target. 
> It  fits into my category of  "real thing", no matter what materials they 
> used to make the garments
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Celebrate Yahoo!'s 10th Birthday!
> Yahoo! Netrospective: 100 Moments of the Web
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Subject: [h-cost] Mahoitered Sleeves
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Sorry about this, but I seem to be having trouble finding the ones I have.  
I know I found a whole slew of colored portraits with them.  But in the meantime,
here is a response to my query when I was first investigating them.

As Karen says, it should get you started and in the mean time I will continue to look
for the ones I scanned.

Sg (who has taken this opportunity to recognize that she REALLY needs to back up all
her images on CD, before anything else gets lost!)

seamstrix@juno.com[63,13]CSuX: anyone seen portraits with sleeves like these?
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Anyone seen portraits with sleeves like these?
From: seamstrix@juno.com
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 16:16:43 -0600
The term I am familiar with for those sleeves is 'mahoitered' and they
are fairly common on English, Spanish, and French fashions of the 1560's
and 70's. 

I don't have any online sources to hand but here are some literary
references-

"Elizabethan Pagentry" by H.K. Morse

Page 23: Portait of a Lady by Antonio Moro
Page 27: Young Woman 1564 by Lucas Cranach the Younger

Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd by Janet Arnold

Page 7: #6 Queen Elizabeth receiving the Dutch Ambassadors (1570-75)
                   the ladies sitting on the floor to the right of the
painting all seem
                   to have mahoitered sleeves.
Page 55: #93 Unknown Lady Aged 29 (1557) by Hans Eworth
Page 133: #211 Pierre de Moucheron and Wife- detail (1563)
Page 134: #212 Lady Anne Penruddocke Aged 20 (1557) by Hans Eworth 
Page 139: #222 Lady Aged 30, Called Queen Elizabeth (1563) Anonymous
Page 140: #224 Margaret of Parma (1562) by Antonio Mor
Page 154: #243 Queen E and the # Goddesses-detail (1569) by HE


That should get you started! 8-)


Karen




>
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From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sideless Surcoat
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Theresathreadgi@aol.com wrote:

> There is a web page for the cotehardie, just spent 10 minutes hunting through 
> myfavorites and cant find it right nowbut if I am not mistaken one of the 
> h-cost persons sent it to me.Was great with bth design for paper pattern or a 
> drape and pin explaination.

The Cotehardie and Houpelande page is here now:
http://www.theweebsite.com/cotelande/index.html


This is also a good page for pictures: 
http://www.geocities.com/ariedin/index.html




Dawn


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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net (Elena O'Tighearnaigh)
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Sat, 05 Mar 2005 15:47:13 +0000
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Subject: [h-cost] holy grail window was Sideless Surcoat
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The link below has a lovely picture!  But when I clicked on it to see if it could be enlarged for details, a *you dirty knave trying to steal the holy grail* window pops up.

Goodness!  I presume it's supposed to be funny....I guess my funny bone is not calibrated right...

Coffee, I need coffee...

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> Theresathreadgi@aol.com wrote: 
> 
> The Cotehardie and Houpelande page is here now: 
> http://www.theweebsite.com/cotelande/index.html 
> 
> 
> This is also a good page for pictures: 
> http://www.geocities.com/ariedin/index.html 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dawn 
> 
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Subject: [h-cost] Ombre silk fabric
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Does anyone know where to buy ombre silk fabric online?  I found a 
little on the Thai silks site but not what I wanted.

Thanks for any info.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar  5 11:17:46 2005
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sideless Surcoat
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On Sat, 5 Mar 2005, Dawn wrote:

> Theresathreadgi@aol.com wrote:
> 
> > There is a web page for the cotehardie, just spent 10 minutes hunting
> > through myfavorites and cant find it right nowbut if I am not
> > mistaken one of the h-cost persons sent it to me.Was great with bth
> > design for paper pattern or a drape and pin explaination.
> 
> The Cotehardie and Houpelande page is here now:
> http://www.theweebsite.com/cotelande/index.html

The above page might answer the needs of the original poster, depending on
what she's looking for, but it's important to note that it relies mostly
on outdated popular costume books and is not very historically accurate. I
also don't see construction directions on that page, so it probably is not
what Theresa was remembering.

For instructions on drape-and-pin, most people point to Tasha McGann's
page:

http://www.cottesimple.com/index.html

Tasha developed her method in part based on my work. You'll find my
written comments at:

http://www.netherton.net/robin

I don't have directions there and never will, as I don't think this method
can be taught on paper. However, I do have a handout I use for workshops,
and a collection of posts that will provide useful background and tips for
someone wanting to take a non-patterned approach. Experienced costumers
who have an understanding of the desired look and basic methods have been
able to use those to replicate my method.

The original poster, I think, asked for patterns. I don't use them and so
can't recommend any. Perhaps someone else can. There are a number of
patterns out there for both fitted underdresses and sideless surcotes that
will produce an acceptable "look" for general SCA wear and for other
costuming purposes, though I would consider all of them to be modern in
approach. I would not recommend using patterns for historical costume
competition or authentic re-enactment, but I don't gather that's what the
original poster was aiming for.

--Robin

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sideless Surcoat
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At 10:30 05/03/2005 -0600, you wrote:

>On Sat, 5 Mar 2005, Dawn wrote:
>
> > Theresathreadgi@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > > There is a web page for the cotehardie, just spent 10 minutes hunting
> > > through myfavorites and cant find it right nowbut if I am not
> > > mistaken one of the h-cost persons sent it to me.Was great with bth
> > > design for paper pattern or a drape and pin explaination.
> >
> > The Cotehardie and Houpelande page is here now:
> > http://www.theweebsite.com/cotelande/index.html
>
>The above page might answer the needs of the original poster, depending on
>what she's looking for, but it's important to note that it relies mostly
>on outdated popular costume books and is not very historically accurate. I
>also don't see construction directions on that page, so it probably is not
>what Theresa was remembering.
>
>For instructions on drape-and-pin, most people point to Tasha McGann's
>page:
>
>http://www.cottesimple.com/index.html
>
>Tasha developed her method in part based on my work. You'll find my
>written comments at:
>
>http://www.netherton.net/robin
>
>
>
>The original poster, I think, asked for patterns. I don't use them and so
>can't recommend any. Perhaps someone else can. There are a number of
>patterns out there for both fitted underdresses and sideless surcotes that
>will produce an acceptable "look" for general SCA wear and for other
>costuming purposes, though I would consider all of them to be modern in
>approach. I would not recommend using patterns for historical costume
>competition or authentic re-enactment, but I don't gather that's what the
>original poster was aiming for.



Jean Hunnisett's book "Period Costume for Stage and Screen Medieval to 
1500" published by Players Press has patterns for sideless surcoats, one 
based on the Luttrell Psalter. Don't be put off by the title - Jean's 
research was thorough, and her patterns based on original paintings, 
sculpture and so on.

Suzi


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Subject: [h-cost] typo on page was: holy grail window was Sideless Surcoat
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Hello,
If anyone knows the owner of this web site there is a typo on this 
page...
http://www.theweebsite.com/cotelande/index.html

I don't think Charles died in 1634.

Althea


On Saturday, March 5, 2005, at 07:47 AM, Elena O'Tighearnaigh wrote:

> The link below has a lovely picture!  But when I clicked on it to see 
> if it could be enlarged for details, a *you dirty knave trying to 
> steal the holy grail* window pops up.
>
> Goodness!  I presume it's supposed to be funny....I guess my funny 
> bone is not calibrated right...
>
> Coffee, I need coffee...
>
> --
> Slan go foill
> Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri
>
> Emer's Needle Wares
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
>
>> Theresathreadgi@aol.com wrote:
>>
>> The Cotehardie and Houpelande page is here now:
>> http://www.theweebsite.com/cotelande/index.html
>>
>>
>> This is also a good page for pictures:
>> http://www.geocities.com/ariedin/index.html
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Dawn
>>
> _______________________________________________
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>
Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com
*** http://www.alfalfapress.com

I think, therefore I'm dangerous.

I'll be Post-Feminist in a Post-Patriarchy


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Mahoitered Sleeves
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Not sure why this isn't reaching the list, but here it is again.
Sg

Wicked Frau wrote:

> Here is a link to some mockups on various types of Mahoitered 
> sleeves.  Sorry the images aren't so hot.  Most of them I accidentally 
> saved at a very worthless low resolution.  
> http://saragrace.net/images/Misc/mahoiteredsleeves.htm
>
>
>
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar  5 18:49:45 2005
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In response to an old thread ( I have been out of comission for a while) you CAN get rolls of 1/2 inch grid paper-the rolls are about 3 feet wide and are about 200 ft long.  each roll is 26$ dollars plus whatever shippiing is to whereever you are.  I order mine from a company called Nasco, their web site is 
www.enasco.com and the item number is 9712672.  Their catalog is a pain if you do not have the item number.  

hope this is not to late to be helpful. 

jordana


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Subject: [h-cost] work stations
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I'm looking at a office supply catalog k-log.com and I'm looking at the ergo adjust workstation that has a dual crank for changing the 'keyboard' part of the split table.  The thing I noticed is that it's just a split table, so the keyboard part has a really sturdy support system.   It can go up so you can stand at it or low enough to sit comfortably.

I was thinking how nice to use this to raise my sewing machine up and down as needed.  And thinking how nice it would be to have two, to have an ironing platform right next to me at whatever level I want it. And table space behind both!

Then there's the Pneumatic table with the 60x 30 table top that can go 20"-30".  I'm thinking cutting table..



Sigh.  



--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares
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From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re[h-cost] Re: Mahoitered Sleeves/ Thanks for the explanination &
	photo
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OK...the red sleeve shows this sleeve type really
well, they kinda remind me of the Phillipino ladies
sleeves on their fancy dresses(remember Imelad
Marcos?)I have no idea how they keep THEM up either.
I was cruising "Margospatterns" site yesterday and she
has a comfort gown with Mshoitered sleeves. I was
kinda sure I knew what they were after that,as the
other gown pictured said roll top sleeve(the sausage
roll thing)
Thanks  to ALL for the help....
Melody
--- Wicked Frau <wickedfrau@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Not sure why this isn't reaching the list, but here
> it is again.
> Sg
> 
> Wicked Frau wrote:
> 
> > Here is a link to some mockups on various types of
> Mahoitered 
> > sleeves.  Sorry the images aren't so hot.  Most of
> them I accidentally 
> > saved at a very worthless low resolution.  
> >
>
http://saragrace.net/images/Misc/mahoiteredsleeves.htm
> >
> >
> >
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


	
		
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Hello,
Can anyone give me the general shape of and type of
material a Ventian ladies chemise would be.
 Particularily I need to know the shape of the
neckline,(was it pleated into a bead) decorated at
all?
Sleeves - regular length or longer to pull thru sleeve
slashes?
Cuffs - banded  ,with rufles or not.  Is black work
seen in this period,or not on Italian clothes.Lace ?
I usually do Elizabethean peasant type clothes but
decided to "move on up", only the dress I had looked
more Italian then English. SO, I figured "why fight
it, the dress WANTS to be Italian" But my under wear
want to remain english ,SO I need help.
 Under the skirts, was a hoop or fathingale or
crinoline worn to add "poof" to the skirts?
 To see a close look alike to my dress, go to the
realm of Venus web site and look at  he painting of
the Fasolo family (1560 page), same color & almost
pattern,
weird thing is I kinda look like the lady in the
painting,cept I have red hair.
Any info & help would be great
Thanks,,,, Melody


	
		
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Gosh guys, have I stumbled across something new here?  It looks like 
Bildindex is starting to include artwork from all over?  I have been 
typing in various artist names in artcyclopedia.com and almost without 
fail Bildindex shows up (down at the bottom ususually), then when I 
click on it, it takes me to Bildindex and there are a collection of the 
artists paintings from all over???  The Prado, Uffzi etc.  Wahoooooo!
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Subject: [h-cost] "vintage" patterns
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I thought I sent this last night, but it did not seem to show up.  If anyone does want them, please email me by tonight as I would like to have husband drop package off at postoffice tomorrow during his lunch break.


I found about 6 vintage(70s) patterns in an old swewing machine that i acquired (it was on the side of the road/waiting for garbage truck-machine is from the 40s in a great/neato cabanet) -this was back in summer before i had been basicly incompacitaded by varius problems.  I had offered these patterns to whoever wanted them, and had a taker, but have since lost the email.  The patterns do smell a little and make me snnize, so-if you are allergic to mold, don't say you want them!  also, i have not looked in the envolopes, so i have no idea abouot the state of them. 

If whoever said they wanted them says "ME", they get first dibs!

Thanks, Jordana

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Date: Sun, 6 Mar 2005 12:30:07 -0500
From: "A. Thurman" <athurman@gmail.com>
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Not costume related, but definitely historical:

I'm looking to purchase this book and I'm discovering that there are
two editions: one from 1992 and another from 1999 (ISBNs 0866980865
and  1-889818-15-1, respectively).

Can anyone tell me if there are any substantial improvements in the
newer edition? Price is an issue, and while I can find the 1992
edition used (and about $10 cheaper), I can only get the 1999 new.
Please advise,

Thanks in advance,

Allison T.
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Slightly OT: English Handwriting 1400-1650
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On Sun, 6 Mar 2005, A. Thurman wrote:

> I'm looking to purchase this book and I'm discovering that there are
> two editions: one from 1992 and another from 1999 (ISBNs 0866980865
> and 1-889818-15-1, respectively).
> 
> Can anyone tell me if there are any substantial improvements in the
> newer edition?

I know nothing about the 1999 edition, but I have a copy of the 1992. If
someone else has the 1999, I'll be happy to compare a description off-list
(e.g. no. of pages, illustrations, etc.)

It looks like a really good book, though as it turns out I didn't use it
much because I stopped pursuing handwriting study at about the time I
bought it. I would also recommend Parkes' _English Cursive Book Hands
1250-1500_ and Hector's _The Handwriting of English Documents_ if you're
into studying cursives, as I was.

--Robin

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On Sun, 6 Mar 2005 12:01:53 -0700 (MST), h-costume-request@indra.com
<h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:

> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 12
> Date: Sun, 6 Mar 2005 12:09:59 -0600 (CST)
> From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Slightly OT: English Handwriting 1400-1650
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID:
>        <Pine.LNX.4.10.10503061204160.15635-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
> Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
> 
> On Sun, 6 Mar 2005, A. Thurman wrote:
> 
> > I'm looking to purchase this book and I'm discovering that there are
> > two editions: one from 1992 and another from 1999 (ISBNs 0866980865
> > and 1-889818-15-1, respectively).
> >
> > Can anyone tell me if there are any substantial improvements in the
> > newer edition?
> 
> I know nothing about the 1999 edition, but I have a copy of the 1992. If
> someone else has the 1999, I'll be happy to compare a description off-list
> (e.g. no. of pages, illustrations, etc.)
> 
> It looks like a really good book, though as it turns out I didn't use it
> much because I stopped pursuing handwriting study at about the time I
> bought it. I would also recommend Parkes' _English Cursive Book Hands
> 1250-1500_ and Hector's _The Handwriting of English Documents_ if you're
> into studying cursives, as I was.

I'm mostly trying to figure out how to decipher the "secretary"
alphabet/script used on so many formal documents. Drea Leed
recommended this book to me, but if one edition has more examples or
clearer illustrations than the other, I'd like to know before I
purchase.
> 
> --Robin
> 
Allison T.
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From: "A. Thurman" <athurman@gmail.com>
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Cc: h-costume@net.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Slightly OT: English Handwriting 1400-1650
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On Sun, 6 Mar 2005 12:01:53 -0700 (MST), h-costume-request@indra.com
<h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:

> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 12
> Date: Sun, 6 Mar 2005 12:09:59 -0600 (CST)
> From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Slightly OT: English Handwriting 1400-1650
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID:
>        <Pine.LNX.4.10.10503061204160.15635-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
> Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
> 
> On Sun, 6 Mar 2005, A. Thurman wrote:
> 
> > I'm looking to purchase this book and I'm discovering that there are
> > two editions: one from 1992 and another from 1999 (ISBNs 0866980865
> > and 1-889818-15-1, respectively).
> >
> > Can anyone tell me if there are any substantial improvements in the
> > newer edition?
> 
> I know nothing about the 1999 edition, but I have a copy of the 1992. If
> someone else has the 1999, I'll be happy to compare a description off-list
> (e.g. no. of pages, illustrations, etc.)
> 
> It looks like a really good book, though as it turns out I didn't use it
> much because I stopped pursuing handwriting study at about the time I
> bought it. I would also recommend Parkes' _English Cursive Book Hands
> 1250-1500_ and Hector's _The Handwriting of English Documents_ if you're
> into studying cursives, as I was.

I'm mostly trying to figure out how to decipher the "secretary"
alphabet/script used on so many formal documents. Drea Leed
recommended this book to me, but if one edition has more examples or
clearer illustrations than the other, I'd like to know before I
purchase.
> 
> --Robin
> 
Allison T.
_______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] New York City Public Library
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The New York City Public Library has put some interesting images up on its  
website, and many of them relate to costume of various periods. I thought I'd  
pass the link along in case you haven't found this already.
 
_http://digitalgallery.nypl.org/nypldigital/index.cfm_ 
(http://digitalgallery.nypl.org/nypldigital/index.cfm) 


--- Tea Rose, surfer extraordinaire and amateur  lurker
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Slightly OT: English Handwriting 1400-1650
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At 02:17 PM 3/6/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>On Sun, 6 Mar 2005 12:01:53 -0700 (MST), h-costume-request@indra.com
><h-costume-request@indra.com> wrote:
> > Date: Sun, 6 Mar 2005 12:09:59 -0600 (CST)
> > From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Slightly OT: English Handwriting 1400-1650
>
> > On Sun, 6 Mar 2005, A. Thurman wrote:
> >
> > > I'm looking to purchase this book and I'm discovering that there are
> > > two editions: one from 1992 and another from 1999 (ISBNs 0866980865
> > > and 1-889818-15-1, respectively).
> > >
> > > Can anyone tell me if there are any substantial improvements in the
> > > newer edition?
> >
> > I know nothing about the 1999 edition, but I have a copy of the 1992. If
> > someone else has the 1999, I'll be happy to compare a description off-list
> > (e.g. no. of pages, illustrations, etc.)
> >
> > It looks like a really good book, though as it turns out I didn't use it
> > much because I stopped pursuing handwriting study at about the time I
> > bought it. I would also recommend Parkes' _English Cursive Book Hands
> > 1250-1500_ and Hector's _The Handwriting of English Documents_ if you're
> > into studying cursives, as I was.
>
>I'm mostly trying to figure out how to decipher the "secretary"
>alphabet/script used on so many formal documents. Drea Leed
>recommended this book to me, but if one edition has more examples or
>clearer illustrations than the other, I'd like to know before I
>purchase.
> >
> > --Robin
> >
>Allison T.

I have a copy of "Elizabethan Handwriting 1500-1650: A Manual" by Giles 
Dawson and Laetitia Kennedy-Skipton of the Folger Shakespeare Library, 1966 
(no ISBN).  I used it when I transcribed a will from 1590 (I received a 
photocopy of the manuscript from the public record from a kind English 
friend).  I'm not familiar with the other English handwriting books, but 
can testify that this one is very good. I was able to find a copy a few 
years ago on the used book market for $25 + tax and shipping.  One of my 
best bargains.

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian or Regency Boudoir Clothing
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At 18:19 04/03/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>Greetings All!
>
>You know those wonderful frilly beribboned Bed Jackets/Dressing Gowns that 
>a lady would have eaten her breakfast in while still in her room?  Well, i 
>am looking for some photos of one.  Does anyone have any suggestions of 
>where I can find some?
>
>I am also looking for men's dressing gowns/smoking jackets.  But think 
>1800's rather than 1900's.  You know something that Byronic Set would have 
>worn while smoking opium or sitting in their own study in casual comfort.
>
>Any and all help is appreciated!
>
>Thanks in Advance,
>Kit
>If you walk a mile in someone else's shoes, do you get to keep them? - 
>Kenneth Cole


There are some quilted early 19th century dressing gown/banyans in the V 
and A. I have pictures in a "Costume" journal, but as I have 27 of these it 
may take a while to find them.

Suzi


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At 18:19 04/03/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>Greetings All!
>
>You know those wonderful frilly beribboned Bed Jackets/Dressing Gowns that 
>a lady would have eaten her breakfast in while still in her room?  Well, i 
>am looking for some photos of one.  Does anyone have any suggestions of 
>where I can find some?
>
>I am also looking for men's dressing gowns/smoking jackets.  But think 
>1800's rather than 1900's.  You know something that Byronic Set would have 
>worn while smoking opium or sitting in their own study in casual comfort.
>
>Any and all help is appreciated!
>
>Thanks in Advance,
>Kit
>If you walk a mile in someone else's shoes, do you get to keep them? - 
>Kenneth Cole


Try here - a better source than me.

Suzi

http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/BANYAN.HTM


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Mar  6 17:58:56 2005
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  I stumbled across this link this evening through artcyclopedia and 
just had to share it.  It has a number of paintings I have never seen 
before.  Until I pulled up the self portrait, I did not realize the 
artist is a woman!  Gotta love these kid scenes. 
<http://tinyurl.com/4pvum>
After having looked at several more Italian Artists, I am beginning to 
think that Bildindex is either being sloppy or is confused.  I've seen 
several of the same paintings under several different artists. 


http://www.bildindex.de/rx/apsisa.dll/registerinhalt?sid=&cnt=&rid=2&aid=*&query=+xdbpics%3Aalle%20+r1a_name%3A'A*'%20%20+r1a_name%3A%22
anguissola,%20sofonisba%22&no=1&count=50&sort=no&rid=2

Sorry about the horribly long url, but H-cost no longer takes TinyUrl!  
Darn!
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On Sun, 6 Mar 2005, Wicked Frau wrote:

> ...
> <http://tinyurl.com/4pvum>
> ... 
> http://www.bildindex.de/rx/apsisa.dll/registerinhalt?sid=&cnt=&rid=2&aid=*&query=+xdbpics%3Aalle%20+r1a_name%3A'A*'%20%20+r1a_name%3A%22
> anguissola,%20sofonisba%22&no=1&count=50&sort=no&rid=2
> 
> Sorry about the horribly long url, but H-cost no longer takes TinyUrl!  

The tinyurl version worked for me. What do you mean about h-cost no longer
"taking" it?

I love her self-portrait. The eyes!

--Robin

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Hi. I, too, only have the '92 edition (got it at the Folger, still has 
the receipt in it). On the handwriting subject, another good book is 
"The Handwriting of the Renaissance" by Samuel A. Tannenbaum 1930 
Columbia University Press. Don't know if it has ever been reprinted, but 
you can sometimes find copies online. Cheers, Mike T.


>  
>
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In a message dated 3/3/2005 10:10:17 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
ewalpole@iimetro.com.au writes:

I got  the impression it was more sort of heart shaped with the padding 
concentrated  over the hips (to the side) and little to no padding at the  back.



This sorta Pannier pad that you describe here would work to about 1780s but  
if I remember correctly you were talking about a mid to late 1780s  
silhouette....so the padding at the back is right.
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How silly of me.  I meant to delete the TinyUrl before I sent it.  I 
would not have expected it to pass with it.  They have been bouncing for 
me lately.  But I am glad to see that at least they sometimes work!

Robin Netherton wrote:

>On Sun, 6 Mar 2005, Wicked Frau wrote:
>
>  
>
>>Sorry about the horribly long url, but H-cost no longer takes TinyUrl!  
>>    
>>
>
>
>
>
>  
>
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Hi Melody, I just replied to your personal email - how weird to find
you have also posted here! :-)

> Can anyone give me the general shape of and type of
> material a Ventian ladies chemise would be.

Most likely linen - the finer the better for a noblewoman. As for
general shape, I'm afraid we don't have an extant camicie that has been
proven to be Venetian, but I have a little about several extant Italian
camcie, and list them starting here...

<http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/wardrobe/extcam1.htm> You'll
find a link to subsequent pages at the bottom of each page.



>  Particularily I need to know the shape of the
> neckline,(was it pleated into a bead) decorated at
> all?

Yes, often pleated to a band, with neckline "frills" often. Sometimes
decorated with monochrome embroidery in black or red (less common),
often trimmed with lace as the pic of extant camicie above will show.


> Sleeves - regular length or longer to pull thru sleeve
> slashes?

You'll find different opinions, but mine is that yes, sometimes they
were longer to pull through sleeve slashes and fill poufs.


> Cuffs - banded  ,with rufles or not.


I've only seen uncuffed, loose camicie sleeve ends in Venice, although
most of the extant Italian camicie have cuffs of some sort. See
Venetian examples here:
<http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/wardrobe/camportrait.htm>


>  Is black work
> seen in this period,or not on Italian clothes.Lace ?

See my answer regarding decoration, above.


>  Under the skirts, was a hoop or fathingale or
> crinoline worn to add "poof" to the skirts?


Not as far as I know, although roped petticoats/underskirts are a
definite possibility.


Hope this has helped,



=====
Donna Bella Lucia da Verona - Innilgard, Lochac
©Any intellectual material in this message is copyright Anabella Wake (Bella Lucia da Verona)
 ***The MARCH Italian Showcase is now online!*** http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/yourgarb/showcase.htm

Find local movie times and trailers on Yahoo! Movies.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] dylon dye
Date: Sun, 6 Mar 2005 22:33:53 -0500
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Washing machine will work fine, but if you need to use a lot of water, 
you'll also need to use a lot of dye for it to be concentrated enough to 
work well, unless you have one of those cool European machines. Also, you'll 
need to be really careful that the machine doesn't empty itself before it's 
soaked long enough to take in the dye.

Dylon will not run the way RIT does. It will run the first few washes, but 
after that, in my experience, it's pretty steady.

Good luck! 
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Date: Sun, 6 Mar 2005 21:02:49 -0800 (PST)
From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1560's  Venitian chemise
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 Yes That's me, I discovered H-cost. list and am in
heaven, I just read my personal email and between the
two posts you've helped Enormously!
 Now to take all this info and make it look like the
painting, by April,I just might have a chance.
Thanks again.! 
Hope all is  better now at home....been there.
Sending good thoughts your wway.....
 Melody

--- Bella <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au> wrote:
> Hi Melody, I just replied to your personal email -
> how weird to find you have also posted here! :-)
> ***** SNIP*****
>> 
> Hope this has helped,
> Donna Bella Lucia da Verona - Innilgard, Lochac

> ©Any intellectual material in this message is
> copyright Anabella Wake (Bella Lucia da Verona)
>  ***The MARCH Italian Showcase is now online!***
> 


	
		
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Date: Mon, 07 Mar 2005 04:18:34 -0600
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Had to share
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At 03:58 PM 3/6/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>  I stumbled across this link this evening through artcyclopedia and just 
> had to share it.  It has a number of paintings I have never seen 
> before.  Until I pulled up the self portrait, I did not realize the 
> artist is a woman!  Gotta love these kid scenes. <http://tinyurl.com/4pvum>
>After having looked at several more Italian Artists, I am beginning to 
>think that Bildindex is either being sloppy or is confused.  I've seen 
>several of the same paintings under several different artists.
>
>http://www.bildindex.de/rx/apsisa.dll/registerinhalt?sid=&cnt=&rid=2&aid=*&query=+xdbpics%3Aalle%20+r1a_name%3A'A*'%20%20+r1a_name%3A%22
>anguissola,%20sofonisba%22&no=1&count=50&sort=no&rid=2
>
>Sorry about the horribly long url, but H-cost no longer takes TinyUrl!
>Darn!


Greetings,

The tinyurl worked for me.  I love Sofonisba Anguissola's work and am 
surprised to see a couple of paintings I have never seen before (in 
particular the gold plaid gown ones).    Are those by any chance the ones 
that are showing up under other artist's names?

Cheers,
Danielle

Instructor on http://www.costumeclassroom.com
Check out my 16th Century English Clothing in Textual Sources class
Check out my Regency Fashion Plates in textual sources class 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] fabric to sell
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Greetings all...

Excuse this one announcement...I will be listing a bunch of fabric for sale 
on the Swap & Sell yahoo groups.  I should have it up tomorrow with 
photos.  It is primarily silks with a bit of wool so feel free to email me 
if you are interested.  If you aren't a member of the swap & sell group and 
wish to join, please make sure you mention the fact that you are an 
H-Costume member in your membership request.

Cheers,
Danielle
Instructor on http://www.costumeclassroom.com
Check out my 16th Century English Clothing in Textual Sources class
Check out my Regency Fashion Plates in textual sources class 

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No, actually it is the fellow in the cape and a few of the women playing 
piano....hmmm.

Danielle Nunn-Weinberg wrote:

> Greetings,
>
> The tinyurl worked for me.  I love Sofonisba Anguissola's work and am 
> surprised to see a couple of paintings I have never seen before (in 
> particular the gold plaid gown ones).    Are those by any chance the 
> ones that are showing up under other artist's names?
>
> Cheers,
> Danielle
>
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I take it back!  I just ran across it in a google image search for Sofonisba
at http://www.rccr.cremona.it/anguissola/sofonisba.htm

Unfortunately I don't read Italian.  I'm also seeing some other things (via
google) that I'm not sure if I've seen before either.

Jerusha

-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Botany Department, University of Tennessee
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium

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From: "Angharad ver' Reynulf" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re[h-cost] Re: Mahoitered Sleeves/ Thanks for the explanination &
	photo
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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When I lived in the Philippines, I seem to recall that
a lot of the fancy sleeves you are describing were of
a very stiff cloth--I believe the pineapple cloth -
and lots and LOTS of embroidery.  There's now a bridal
designer from Manila using a lot of their techniques
for unique bridal gowns--I'll have to see if I can
find his card, the website had a few shots that are
worth looking at!

Unfortunately for me, I outgrew all of the clothes
from there, and they are all gone. *sigh*

But my goddaughter's maternal family is from there, so
maybe I can start coaxing/bribing for new ones in my
adult size!

Angharat/ wolfcat
--- Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com> wrote:
> OK...the red sleeve shows this sleeve type really
> well, they kinda remind me of the Phillipino ladies
> sleeves on their fancy dresses(remember Imelad
> Marcos?)I have no idea how they keep THEM up either.



	
		
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Could the plaid paintings be copies that have been changed?  The link
Jerusha sent shows the same painting of the artist's mother but I could
swear the bodice looks like it has either been slashed or tucked.  Anne

At 03:58 PM 3/6/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>  I stumbled across this link this evening through artcyclopedia and just 
> had to share it.  It has a number of paintings I have never seen 
> before.  Until I pulled up the self portrait, I did not realize the 
> artist is a woman!  Gotta love these kid scenes.
<http://tinyurl.com/4pvum>
>After having looked at several more Italian Artists, I am beginning to 
>think that Bildindex is either being sloppy or is confused.  I've seen 
>several of the same paintings under several different artists.
>
Greetings,

The tinyurl worked for me.  I love Sofonisba Anguissola's work and am 
surprised to see a couple of paintings I have never seen before (in 
particular the gold plaid gown ones).    Are those by any chance the ones 
that are showing up under other artist's names?

Cheers,
Danielle



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When tinyurl first came out, I used it for a little while, then quit because 
the links only worked about 1/2 the time.  Its batting average seems to have 
improved, but I expect the same info storage/programming/whatever problem 
still exists.

These two sites do the same thing, however, and have worked every time for 
me:
http://snipurl.com and the ironically long-addressed
http://www.makeashorterlink.com/

-E House


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From: "Sidne Kneeland" <skskaw@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: Sofonisba Anguissola (was Re: [h-cost] Had to share)
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Greetings,

I get a fair translation, a bit choppy, but readable, putting in paragraphs 
at a time with Babel Fish:
http://babelfish.altavista.com/

I did not get the translate the whole site thing to work.

SKneeland

>I take it back!  I just ran across it in a google image search for 
>Sofonisba
> at http://www.rccr.cremona.it/anguissola/sofonisba.htm
>
> Unfortunately I don't read Italian.  I'm also seeing some other things 
> (via
> google) that I'm not sure if I've seen before either.
>



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Hi, I'm urgently trying to find a cheaper way to get a costuming book 
from US to Australia - so far the quote is $12 US for sea mail and $25 
US for airmail. Is there a cheaper option? I don't want to go seamail 
or it'll be months before I see the book.
Thanks, Aylwen

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> Hi, I'm urgently trying to find a cheaper way to get a costuming book
> from US to Australia - so far the quote is $12 US for sea mail and $25
> US for airmail. Is there a cheaper option? I don't want to go seamail
> or it'll be months before I see the book.
> Thanks, Aylwen

Depending on the size of the book, you might use one of those "flat-rate" 
express/priority mail envelopes (the "cardboard" ones).  I shipped several 
books in them to Europe because they would fit in the envelope.

Jerusha

-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Botany Department, University of Tennessee
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium

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Aylwen wrote:
> Hi, I'm urgently trying to find a cheaper way to get a costuming book from 
> US to Australia - so far the quote is $12 US for sea mail and $25 US for 
> airmail. Is there a cheaper option? I don't want to go seamail or it'll be 
> months before I see the book.
> Thanks, Aylwen
>

The link below will take you to the USPS rates for Australia.  If your book 
weighs less than four pounds and can fit in the large global priority mail 
flat rate envelope, it can be shipped for $9US and get to you in 4-6 days. 
A small book might fit in the smaller envelope and ship for $5US.  Cheaper 
and faster than what you've been quoted so far, but this would require 
someone to ship this way for you.  Many businesses do not because they have 
contracts with other shippers.  I have used GPM successfully to Europe and 
Asia, so if you can swing it, try it.  Truly cheap rates are under economy 
mail book rates and letter-post rates, but I don't know what the delivery 
time is.  GPM guarantees 4-6 days, and is occasionally faster.
Good luck,
                  -Helen/Aidan
http://pe.usps.gov/text/imm/immicl/immiclab_012.html 


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Errr which group is this on Yahoo specifically?

Danielle Nunn-Weinberg wrote:

> Greetings all...
>
> Excuse this one announcement...I will be listing a bunch of fabric for 
> sale on the Swap & Sell yahoo groups.  I should have it up tomorrow 
> with photos.  It is primarily silks with a bit of wool so feel free to 
> email me if you are interested.  If you aren't a member of the swap & 
> sell group and wish to join, please make sure you mention the fact 
> that you are an H-Costume member in your membership request.
>
> Cheers,
> Danielle
>
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On Mon, 7 Mar 2005, Wicked Frau wrote:

> Errr which group is this on Yahoo specifically?

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/swapsell/

We also have another:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/costumetrader/

Maybe these should be merged...

--Robin

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Have you considered UPS or FedEx?

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- "Helen  Pinto" <hpinto@mindspring.com> wrote:

From: "Helen  Pinto" <hpinto@mindspring.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2005 20:55:09 -0500
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] help - lower costing postage?

Aylwen wrote:
> Hi, I'm urgently trying to find a cheaper way to get a costuming book from 
> US to Australia - so far the quote is $12 US for sea mail and $25 US for 
> airmail. Is there a cheaper option? I don't want to go seamail or it'll be 
> months before I see the book.
> Thanks, Aylwen
>

The link below will take you to the USPS rates for Australia.  If your book 
weighs less than four pounds and can fit in the large global priority mail 
flat rate envelope, it can be shipped for $9US and get to you in 4-6 days. 
A small book might fit in the smaller envelope and ship for $5US.  Cheaper 
and faster than what you've been quoted so far, but this would require 
someone to ship this way for you.  Many businesses do not because they have 
contracts with other shippers.  I have used GPM successfully to Europe and 
Asia, so if you can swing it, try it.  Truly cheap rates are under economy 
mail book rates and letter-post rates, but I don't know what the delivery 
time is.  GPM guarantees 4-6 days, and is occasionally faster.
Good luck,
                  -Helen/Aidan
http://pe.usps.gov/text/imm/immicl/immiclab_012.html 


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Date: Tue, 08 Mar 2005 05:13:53 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mn.rr.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Had to share
In-Reply-To: <20050307152405.VSNF6521.lakermmtao02.cox.net@ANNESCOMPUTER
 >
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I don't know.  It is possible, especially since the proportions (which 
normally is excellent at) are a bit off in those portraits.  I wonder if 
they are actually the work of one of her sisters. The one on the other site 
just looks like a poor scan of the image to me, rather than tucking or 
slashing.

Cheers,
Danielle

At 10:24 AM 3/7/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>Could the plaid paintings be copies that have been changed?  The link
>Jerusha sent shows the same painting of the artist's mother but I could
>swear the bodice looks like it has either been slashed or tucked.  Anne
>
>At 03:58 PM 3/6/2005 -0700, you wrote:
> >  I stumbled across this link this evening through artcyclopedia and just
> > had to share it.  It has a number of paintings I have never seen
> > before.  Until I pulled up the self portrait, I did not realize the
> > artist is a woman!  Gotta love these kid scenes.
><http://tinyurl.com/4pvum>
> >After having looked at several more Italian Artists, I am beginning to
> >think that Bildindex is either being sloppy or is confused.  I've seen
> >several of the same paintings under several different artists.
> >
>Greetings,
>
>The tinyurl worked for me.  I love Sofonisba Anguissola's work and am
>surprised to see a couple of paintings I have never seen before (in
>particular the gold plaid gown ones).    Are those by any chance the ones
>that are showing up under other artist's names?
>
>Cheers,
>Danielle
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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DId this get through???? I am havign trouble sending my reply to my subscription to this list to be active.... 
 
Lady Satine

		
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At 05:57 PM 3/8/2005 -0800, you wrote:
>DId this get through???? I am havign trouble sending my reply to my 
>subscription to this list to be active....
>
>Lady Satine

Yes.

Joan Jurancich
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Subject: [h-cost] handweaver
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We are looking for another person who is skilled in weaving authentic  
fabrics of wool and blends of wool, linen and cotton (no synthetics).   If this 
person is familiar with handspinning and/or vegetable dyeing so much the  better.  
We would prefer someone who is familiar with twills and  plain weaves that 
are suitable for 18c & 19c clothing.  Please  feel free to forward this email to 
anyone you feel may be interested.   Thank you.
 
Best regards,
Susannah B. Smith
 
Susannah Eanes, Mantua Maker and Fine Tailoring
_www.virginvintage.com_ (http://www.virginvintage.com) 
 
"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."  --William  Morris
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Subject: [h-cost] Re:inca costuming
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Thank everyone for your suggestions. I'm sorry I've taken so long to respond. I'm specifically looking at colonial textiles (1550-1700ish) because there are quite a few extant garments from that period as well as a Spanish manuscript with numerous illustrations. I was hoping to find a resource I hadn't uncovered, such as Indian Clothing before Cortez. But, I would be very interested in you pictures, Kathleen.
Thanks again,
Meghan

> 
> Message: 13
> Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2005 08:37:58 -0500
> From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] inca womens costume
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <007c01c5142c$bbab2800$6e5183d1@rmitchellras>
> Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> I believe I might have some pic's of Inca Costume.  I am confused about the
> 'colonial' part of your question.
> Kathleen
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <ladys123@cox.net>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2005 6:03 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] inca womens costume
> 
> 
> > Hello,
> >
> > I thought someone here might have some knowledge about colonial native
> Inca womens' costume. I'm a college art history student and my professor is
> allowing me to write a paper analyzing extant garments and period depictions
> but I'm having a harder time coming up with them than I thought I would. I
> hope there are some other non-western lovers out there to take pity on me
> and help out.
> >
> > Thanks, I'll return to lurk mode now,
> >
> > Meghan Draper
> > Elizabethan enthusiast, non-western art student
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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> 
> 
> End of h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 110
> *****************************************
> 

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Mar  9 12:02:56 2005
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Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2005 09:00:48 -0800 (PST)
From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric organization
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I know this is probably waaay late, but here it is anyway....
( I'm not behind with reading my mail, no.....only a month or so!!! )

--- Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com> wrote:
<i know that someone on the list wrote an excellent paper with
<suggestions  a few years ago. does anyone remember what website
<he put that onto?
<LynnD

I think this may the article you have in mind.

http://www.bitwizards.com/norborough/timetosew.html

It used to be on Stephen Bergdahl's webpage, but that seems to
have disappeared, which is a real pity.

Regards,

Joannah.

On  Fri,  11  Feb  2005 14:26:01 -0600, Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
wrote:
>
>  Which do you think would work better, sorting the fabrics by
intended
>  use (all the light cotton skirt fabric together) or by size,
or even by
> color/ print?
>
> Dawn
>
> _______________________________________________
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric organization
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At 09:00 09/03/2005 -0800, you wrote:
>I know this is probably waaay late, but here it is anyway....
>( I'm not behind with reading my mail, no.....only a month or so!!! )
>
>--- Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com> wrote:
><i know that someone on the list wrote an excellent paper with
><suggestions  a few years ago. does anyone remember what website
><he put that onto?
><LynnD
>
>I think this may the article you have in mind.
>
>http://www.bitwizards.com/norborough/timetosew.html


It is a great idea, but as a professional costume maker, with drawers and 
boxes full of fabrics from 20 years and more back, I don't have the time to 
do all of that!

Besides, I would miss those wonderful moments that go "I didn't know I had 
that!!" I had occasion to dive into a couple of filing cabinets the other 
day, and found 10 metres of grey drill - I use white drill to line my 
bodices and have no need of grey. This was bought by a customer in bulk for 
a job, and he never took the remains, and of course I have lost touch with him.

But I also found a length of green wool for a skirt, which I vaguely 
remember buying when I was a college (!), a length of green silk, and ditto 
blue striped silk which I shall use *eventually*!! I would miss all of that 
if I was organised!!

Suzi


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric organization
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At 13:40 09/03/2005 -0500, you wrote:

>Not to dismiss the fun of those little re-discoveries...  but it is well 
>worth it...
>
>>with drawers and boxes full of fabrics from 20 years and more back, I 
>>don't have the time to do all of that!
>
>And besides... that's what Graduate Students are for.  <evil grin>  AND 
>Tongue Firmly in Cheek.
>
>Mari / Bridgette


Nice idea, but there is barely room for me and the cat! And the last 
student I had, I spent two days sewing on the peacock feathers she had 
taken four days to sew on. (All hers came off immediately! and there were 
800 to sew on - urgh!))  You can see why I am *off* students at the moment.

Suzi


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: M Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric organization
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Not to dismiss the fun of those little re-discoveries...  but it is well 
worth it...

>with drawers and boxes full of fabrics from 20 years and more back, I 
>don't have the time to do all of that!

And besides... that's what Graduate Students are for.  <evil grin>  AND 
Tongue Firmly in Cheek.

Mari / Bridgette

Mari Stewart
Webmaster
College of Veterinary Medicine
Cornell University


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Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2005 02:42:37 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mn.rr.com>
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Greetings,

Is there something wrong with the list?  My last post didn't show up on the 
list and I'm clearly not getting all the emails since I'm getting parts of 
discussion threads!  Is anyone else having this problem?

Cheers,
Danielle

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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <5.2.1.1.2.20050309133747.01be9858@postoffice8.mail.cornell.edu><5.1.0.14.2.20050309174116.014b90f8@127.0.0.1><20050309170051.9DFAA3960@sitemail.everyone.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] something wrong with the list?
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2005 04:00:41 -0500
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I haven't seen much from the list lastly.  Send me your post and I will see 
if I can get it through.

BTW, my husband started designing my color database tonight.  Lets hope he 
sticks with it!

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Danielle Nunn-Weinberg" <dannw@mn.rr.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 10, 2005 3:42 AM
Subject: [h-cost] something wrong with the list?


> Greetings,
>
> Is there something wrong with the list?  My last post didn't show up on 
> the list and I'm clearly not getting all the emails since I'm getting 
> parts of discussion threads!  Is anyone else having this problem?
>
> Cheers,
> Danielle
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Mar 10 04:23:20 2005
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Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2005 09:21:30 +0000
From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] something wrong with the list?
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Perhaps a repeat of the recent problem but affecting different people?
I'm still getting messages this time, but very few of them.

Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17c reenactor

>>> dannw@mn.rr.com 10/03/2005 08:42:37 >>>
Greetings,

Is there something wrong with the list?  My last post didn't show up on
the 
list and I'm clearly not getting all the emails since I'm getting parts
of 
discussion threads!  Is anyone else having this problem?

Cheers,
Danielle

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com 
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

______________________________________________________________________
This email has been scanned by the MessageLabs Email Security System.
For more information please visit http://www.messagelabs.com/email 
______________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________
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h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Mar 10 09:07:41 2005
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From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] something wrong with the list?
References: <5.2.1.1.2.20050309133747.01be9858@postoffice8.mail.cornell.edu>	<5.1.0.14.2.20050309174116.014b90f8@127.0.0.1>	<20050309170051.9DFAA3960@sitemail.everyone.net>
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I'm fine, here (Montana, local ISP).  I've seen your messages.  Perhaps 
there's a delay with your ISP?
--sue

Danielle Nunn-Weinberg wrote:
> Greetings,
> 
> Is there something wrong with the list?  My last post didn't show up on 
> the list and I'm clearly not getting all the emails since I'm getting 
> parts of discussion threads!  Is anyone else having this problem?
>

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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References: <5.2.1.1.2.20050309133747.01be9858@postoffice8.mail.cornell.edu>	<5.1.0.14.2.20050309174116.014b90f8@127.0.0.1>	<20050309170051.9DFAA3960@sitemail.everyone.net><5.0.0.25.2.20050310024056.0232c008@pop-server.mn.rr.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] something wrong with the list?
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2005 08:36:07 -0600
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I never saw the posts about the Oscars that I made either. When I log into 
the interface of the list it shows a bounce history but no way to clear it. 
Or what caused the bounce to see if we can tell our ISP's that something is 
up. Help. :)

(`'·.¸(`'·.¸(`'·.¸¸.·'´)¸.· '´)¸.·'´)
«·.·*¨`·¤ Chiara ¤·´¨*·.·»
(¸.·'´(¸.·'´(¸.·'´`'·.¸)`'· .¸)`'·.¸)
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 10, 2005 8:11 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] something wrong with the list?


: I'm fine, here (Montana, local ISP).  I've seen your messages.  Perhaps
: there's a delay with your ISP?
: --sue
:
: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg wrote:
: > Greetings,
: >
: > Is there something wrong with the list?  My last post didn't show up on
: > the list and I'm clearly not getting all the emails since I'm getting
: > parts of discussion threads!  Is anyone else having this problem?
: >
:
: _______________________________________________
: h-costume mailing list
: h-costume@mail.indra.com
: http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>, h-costume-owner@net.indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] something wrong with the list?
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Yes the same thing is happening to me.  I have cc'd the Liz. 

Kate M Bunting wrote:

>Perhaps a repeat of the recent problem but affecting different people?
>I'm still getting messages this time, but very few of them.
>
>Kate Bunting
>Librarian and 17c reenactor
>
>  
>
>>>>dannw@mn.rr.com 10/03/2005 08:42:37 >>>
>>>>        
>>>>
>Greetings,
>
>Is there something wrong with the list?  My last post didn't show up on
>the 
>list and I'm clearly not getting all the emails since I'm getting parts
>of 
>discussion threads!  Is anyone else having this problem?
>
>Cheers,
>Danielle
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com 
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
>
>______________________________________________________________________
>This email has been scanned by the MessageLabs Email Security System.
>For more information please visit http://www.messagelabs.com/email 
>______________________________________________________________________
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>  
>
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Elena O'Tighearnaigh Atha An Ri" <elena_4557@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] something wrong with the list?
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2005 08:30:40 -0800
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Interesting.  I got this on my hotmail account, but not my comcast account.

Very strange indeed.

>From: Wicked Frau <wickedfrau@earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>, h-costume-owner@net.indra.com
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] something wrong with the list?
>Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2005 08:02:22 -0700
>
>Yes the same thing is happening to me.  I have cc'd the Liz.
>
>Kate M Bunting wrote:
>
>>Perhaps a repeat of the recent problem but affecting different people?
>>I'm still getting messages this time, but very few of them.
>>
>>Kate Bunting
>>Librarian and 17c reenactor
>>
>>
>>
>>>>>dannw@mn.rr.com 10/03/2005 08:42:37 >>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>Greetings,
>>
>>Is there something wrong with the list?  My last post didn't show up on
>>the list and I'm clearly not getting all the emails since I'm getting 
>>parts
>>of discussion threads!  Is anyone else having this problem?
>>
>>Cheers,
>>Danielle
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>______________________________________________________________________
>>This email has been scanned by the MessageLabs Email Security System.
>>For more information please visit http://www.messagelabs.com/email 
>>______________________________________________________________________
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>
>>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Elena O'Tighearnaigh A'tha An Ri
Emer's Needle Wares
Gia Gavino

_________________________________________________________________
Don’t just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! 
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/

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Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2005 08:36:59 -0800
From: Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] something wrong with the list?
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I'm not having any problems -- that I know of --  but I seem to
remember that Liz is away for most of March.

LynnD

On Thu, 10 Mar 2005 08:30:40 -0800, Elena O'Tighearnaigh Atha An Ri
<elena_4557@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Interesting.  I got this on my hotmail account, but not my comcast account.
> 
> Very strange indeed.
> 
> >From: Wicked Frau <wickedfrau@earthlink.net>
> >Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> >To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>, h-costume-owner@net.indra.com
> >Subject: Re: [h-cost] something wrong with the list?
> >Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2005 08:02:22 -0700
> >
> >Yes the same thing is happening to me.  I have cc'd the Liz.
> >
> >Kate M Bunting wrote:
> >
> >>Perhaps a repeat of the recent problem but affecting different people?
> >>I'm still getting messages this time, but very few of them.
> >>
> >>Kate Bunting
> >>Librarian and 17c reenactor
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>>>dannw@mn.rr.com 10/03/2005 08:42:37 >>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>Greetings,
> >>
> >>Is there something wrong with the list?  My last post didn't show up on
> >>the list and I'm clearly not getting all the emails since I'm getting
> >>parts
> >>of discussion threads!  Is anyone else having this problem?
> >>
> >>Cheers,
> >>Danielle
> >>
> >>_______________________________________________
> >>h-costume mailing list
> >>h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >>
> >>______________________________________________________________________
> >>This email has been scanned by the MessageLabs Email Security System.
> >>For more information please visit http://www.messagelabs.com/email
> >>______________________________________________________________________
> >>_______________________________________________
> >>h-costume mailing list
> >>h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >_______________________________________________
> >h-costume mailing list
> >h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> Elena O'Tighearnaigh A'tha An Ri
> Emer's Needle Wares
> Gia Gavino
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Don't just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search!
> http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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What do people do to store their hoops (the Elizabethan/Victorian bell
version, in specific)? Once upon a time I had instructions for how to
twist mine up to fold it, but after ~10 years of doing so, my hoop is
now rather lop-sided (but not in a useful elliptical way...sigh). 

Since I'm being fuzzy brained and can't decide what kind of hoop to use
with my newest project, I just acquired 2 more, but I need to figure out
a way to store them that will 1) fit in my apartment and 2) not distort
the hoops. What go the good people on this list do?
	Thanks!!
		-sunny


_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Status: RO

What do people do to store their hoops (the Elizabethan/Victorian bell
version, in specific)? Once upon a time I had instructions for how to
twist mine up to fold it, but after ~10 years of doing so, my hoop is
now rather lop-sided (but not in a useful elliptical way...sigh). 

Since I'm being fuzzy brained and can't decide what kind of hoop to use
with my newest project, I just acquired 2 more, but I need to figure out
a way to store them that will 1) fit in my apartment and 2) not distort
the hoops. What go the good people on this list do?
	Thanks!!
		-sunny


_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hoop storage?
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Actually I collapse (so it is just concentric circles)  mine and tie a 
cord around it and hang them  in the closet at the end of the rod 
against a wall.  But another way which is period and is good for tot'n 
is to make a round bag!

Sg

sunshine_buchler@agilent.com wrote:

>What do people do to store their hoops (the Elizabethan/Victorian bell
>version, in specific)? Once upon a time I had instructions for how to
>twist mine up to fold it, but after ~10 years of doing so, my hoop is
>now rather lop-sided (but not in a useful elliptical way...sigh). 
>
>Since I'm being fuzzy brained and can't decide what kind of hoop to use
>with my newest project, I just acquired 2 more, but I need to figure out
>a way to store them that will 1) fit in my apartment and 2) not distort
>the hoops. What go the good people on this list do?
>	Thanks!!
>		-sunny
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>  
>
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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hoop storage?
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sunshine_buchler@agilent.com wrote:

>What do people do to store their hoops (the Elizabethan/Victorian bell
>version, in specific)?
>

Well, I don't own any such thing, but if I did, I'd probably either put 
it in the back of the closet behind the clothes, or I'd put it under the 
bed.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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Mine (not that I've used them in 10 years) are on a hangar, just a 
regular one, with the hoops bunched up flat.

(Hi Sunny!)
-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

Binary-numbered clock & Geek Mandalas! 
http://www.cafeshops.com/virtueventures
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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At 04:06 PM 3/10/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>What do people do to store their hoops (the Elizabethan/Victorian bell
>version, in specific)? Once upon a time I had instructions for how to
>twist mine up to fold it, but after ~10 years of doing so, my hoop is
>now rather lop-sided (but not in a useful elliptical way...sigh).
>
>Since I'm being fuzzy brained and can't decide what kind of hoop to use
>with my newest project, I just acquired 2 more, but I need to figure out
>a way to store them that will 1) fit in my apartment and 2) not distort
>the hoops. What go the good people on this list do?
>         Thanks!!
>                 -sunny

I just hang them untwisted.  I've taken a wire coat hanger and made it into 
a big hook to hang the hoops on and just hang them in the closet.  I have 
transported hoops twisted to fit the top of a hat box, but I don't store 
them that way.

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net

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I've got one hoop hanging from a nail on the wall, and another in the box it came in under the bed.  The box appears to be a ordinary cardboard box that has been flattened.  Both methods work well, and require minimal space.

-Katie

Buffy: And what are we if not women up to a challenge? 
Willow: Exactly!  I mean, did we not put the 'grr' in girl?





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Subject: [h-cost] Sewing machine assistance request
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Hi everyone, I am more lurker than poster on this list, but I have a question.  I'm trying to locate a "users manual" for a sewing machine that I have, but I can't find it, or even the parent company to know where to start.  The best I can get is that it's a seam master model 101 and it appears that it was made in Japan.  Everything that is in/on that machine states that it was from Japan, and it's from somewhere around the 1940's or 1950's.  I got it from a friend because she was definitely not a sewer, so had no use for it, and she inherited it from her mom or grandmother, I don't know which.  Anyhow, if I could get some idea of where to start, or if someone just might know how to thread it correctly (that's the BIGGEST problem I have), I appreciate it.  The machine has all the threading done from the spool peg, to a guide at the top back, and then comes around to be threaded on the left side of the machine, not on the front as most of the newer models are these days.  So,!
  any help... I'm planning to let someone use the machine in just over a week, and it would help if I were able to actually thread it!  Thanks much in advance.  I appreciate any direction to locate a manual, or even just be able to correctly thread it.

Pat Tucker
Astrid of the Horde
Never argue with a Dragon, for thou art crunchy and go well with Brie.

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Subject: [h-cost] maskmaking
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Good Evening,

     I swear it was from this list I got the information. A few months ago someone posted a research on maskmaking. Can anyone help me find the post?

                                Bless You,  

                              Angelique


		
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If any of you can catch it, there will be another showing of this at 
10:00 pacific.  Veryyyyyy interesting!

>  
>
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Subject: [h-cost] Satin yellowing
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I saw a while back about trying to make yellowing satin white again. Can 
someone let me know how to do this?  I have a pair of shoes that I need  to 
try and get a little whiter.
Thanks
Mary


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Subject: [h-cost] Kebayas
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Does anyone know where online to buy vintage kebayas (Indonesian blouses)?

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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roscelin wrote:

>   I believe David is commenting about the websites you shared with me about the
> horse patterns.
>   Yes, David, those dragons are also great.  But I know for me they look a bit
> more challenging than I want to tackle right now.  I'll have to take a look
> at the site that you mentioned.
>   Isn't a Pallo a form of hobby horse/animal? A head of an animal with a long
> stick for the body?


Yes.

Occasional the local SCA groups have an event to recreate the Italian 
Pallo, by having runners with "stick horses" or pallos

I hope to have a dragon mount for the next time the races come around.

Your humble and obediant servant,
David S Mallinak

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From: "David S. Mallinak" <matchlck@erols.com>
Organization: Red Dragon Bridge Enterprises, Ltd.
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Subject: Re: Dragons   was Re: [h-cost] Horse pattern
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> : David, what is a Pallo?  Also, I don't see the link you speak of
> : (....another site with more dragon doll patterns (attached above)....)


I started at http://clothdollpatterns.com/patterns3/id26.htm

On left hand side is a advert for

Hyacinth Studios
Drako the Dragon, a STUNNING MERMAID, Ziggy the Dragon, Ludwig and his 
Friend, BEAR patterns and a bear kit!
http://clothdollpatterns.com/patterns3/id35.htm

Your humble and obediant servant,
David S Mallinak

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Satin yellowing
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At 07:20 PM 3/10/2005 -0800, you wrote:
>I saw a while back about trying to make yellowing satin white again. Can 
>someone let me know how to do this?  I have a pair of shoes that I 
>need  to try and get a little whiter.
>Thanks
>Mary

Unfortunately, the conclusion was that such yellowing is usually permanent 
since it is generally due to an actual chemical change in the fibers.  Most 
attempts at whitening will simply destroy the fabric.

Joan Jurancich
joanmj@surewest.net

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Have you thought about getting one of those ironing board hangers for the 
back of a door?  Seems that would work for a sturdy hanger.

I have seen people using the clothes bags.  I would be leery of under the 
bed, except if you vacuum under it frequently.

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com 


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: maskmaking
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Angelique,

That could possibly have been me. I hav done some
research on Venetian maskmaking, concentrating on
Martedi Grasso and everyday wear masks. 

http://outoftheattic.homeip.net/Venetian_Masks.html

HTH,

Kathy

>      I swear it was from this list I got the
> information. A few months ago someone posted a
> research on maskmaking. Can anyone help me find the
> post?
> 
>                                 Bless You,  
> 
>                               Angelique


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Sewing machine assistance request
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Look over on yahoo at the vintagesingers list.  Post there- even though the
machine you mention is not a Singer, it is a good bet it is a clone, as the
Japanese made many clones of the popular Singer models in the post-war to
1960s or so.  If you post an inquiry there and perhaps a picture you will
surely get the info you are looking for.
-Megan

-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Astrid of the Horde
wrote:
Subject: [h-cost] Sewing machine assistance request
<snip>
I'm trying to locate a "users manual" for a sewing machine that I have, but
I can't find it, or even the parent company to know where to start.  The
best I can get is that it's a seam master model 101 and it appears that it
was made in Japan.  
<snip>


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Subject: [h-cost] Looking for 16th century painting
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Hi,

I've got a black and white picture of a dress and I would like to see it 
in colour and to have some more information of it.
Is there anyone who knows more about this painting?
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Unknown.jpg

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Satin yellowing
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2005 07:50:51 -0500
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I would use a white fabric spray...if the shoes are not quite antique.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "N n" <ms_lindy39@hotmail.com>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 10, 2005 10:20 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Satin yellowing


> I saw a while back about trying to make yellowing satin white again. Can
> someone let me know how to do this?  I have a pair of shoes that I need
to
> try and get a little whiter.
> Thanks
> Mary
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sewing machine assistance request
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2005 07:55:34 -0500
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Might it be a Riccar?  This was my first machine.  All steel innards and was
mostly reliable until I branched out to meet the varied needs of a serious
costumer.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Megan M." <megan@benchite.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, March 11, 2005 5:55 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Sewing machine assistance request


> Look over on yahoo at the vintagesingers list.  Post there- even though
the
> machine you mention is not a Singer, it is a good bet it is a clone, as
the
> Japanese made many clones of the popular Singer models in the post-war to
> 1960s or so.  If you post an inquiry there and perhaps a picture you will
> surely get the info you are looking for.
> -Megan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Behalf Of Astrid of the Horde
> wrote:
> Subject: [h-cost] Sewing machine assistance request
> <snip>
> I'm trying to locate a "users manual" for a sewing machine that I have,
but
> I can't find it, or even the parent company to know where to start.  The
> best I can get is that it's a seam master model 101 and it appears that it
> was made in Japan.
> <snip>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Mar 11 08:03:37 2005
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for 16th century painting
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You are not going to believe this, but I just wrote an inquiry to the 
Chatsworth house where this painting lives.  The reply is attached.  I 
have been given permission to have a better black and white picture and 
may be ordering the transparency.  (In a later note, "They" decided to 
not sell me a slide.).   If you want to go in on the transparency, 
contact me off list.  ;}

Sg

Dear Saragrace Knauf,

Thank you for your email.

The painting is no longer thought to be of Mary Queen of Scots after a pectoral cross that had been overpainted onto the original painting was removed in a 1950s cleaning. There is little doubt that the painting had been altered in order to sell it to a former owner as Mary Queen of Scots.  It is now attributed to Alonso Sanchez Coello (1531/2-1588)? 

Please can you tell me why you want a 35mm slide?  These are usually only spplied for lecturing purposes.  If you are wishing to reproduce the image in a publication I can hire you a 5 x 4" colour transparency for a three month period at £35 (+VAT).  In addition there is a reproduction fee dependant on usage. 

Regarding a listing of the paintings at Chatswowrth, you can apply for a list of Pictures from the Photo Survey Dept. of the Courtauld Institute of Art, the Strand, London. We also sell a list of paintings which hang on the public route of the house.

My colleague, Charles Noble, Keeper of the Collection, (collection@chatsworth.org) would like you to contact him if you have comments to make about the dress shown in the portrait. Is it Spanish, for instance, or can it be tied to a specific nationality? 

I look forward to hearing from you in due course.

Yours sincerely,

Diane Naylor


--------------------------
Diane P. Naylor (Mrs)
Photo Librarian
Chatsworth
Bakewell
Derbyshire DE45 1PP
Tel: +44 (0)1246 565300
Fax: +44 (0)1246 565318
 

http://www.chatsworth.org
The views expressed in this message are those of the individual sender and therefore the Trustees of the Chatsworth Settlement cannot accept legal or contractual responsibility for its content.

This message, and any attachments with it, are confidential. If you have received this message in error, please notify the sender and destroy your copies of the message and any attachments. 



Deredere Galbraith wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I've got a black and white picture of a dress and I would like to see 
> it in colour and to have some more information of it.
> Is there anyone who knows more about this painting?
> http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Unknown.jpg
>
> _______________________________________________
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Hi Astrid,

I recommend that you take it to a sewing repair shop and have it cleaned 
and serviced (oiled, tension adjusted, etc). If it has not been used in 
quite a while, it will need it. They can then show you how to thread it.

One of mine (was my Mother's) has "Made in Occupied Japan" cast on the 
bottom and is a clone of a Singer of that vintage. Most of those sewing 
machines were either clones of Singer or White. Several questions: 1) Was 
the bobbin round and "drop in" from the top or "cased" and inserted from 
underneath the machine. These bobbins look very similar but are not 
interchangeable (the cased one is thicker)   2) was the tension control on 
the front left  or off the left end?

Threading the needle really is pretty easy on all the old machines... just 
bring the thread from the spool through each of the thread guides to the 
tension control, around and under the wire hook to the thread guides and to 
the needle.

Machines of that vintage usually only do straight stitch. Some have no reverse.

Hope this helps.
Beth

At 09:48 PM 3/10/2005, you wrote:
>Message: 11
>Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2005 02:13:22 GMT
>From: "Astrid of the Horde" <btana@juno.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] Sewing machine assistance request
>To: h-costume@net.indra.com
>
>Hi everyone, I am more lurker than poster on this list, but I have a 
>question.  I'm trying to locate a "users manual" for a sewing machine that 
>I have, but I can't find it, or even the parent company to know where to 
>start.  The best I can get is that it's a seam master model 101 and it 
>appears that it was made in Japan.  Everything that is in/on that machine 
>states that it was from Japan, and it's from somewhere around the 1940's 
>or 1950's.  I got it from a friend because she was definitely not a sewer, 
>so had no use for it, and she inherited it from her mom or grandmother, I 
>don't know which.  Anyhow, if I could get some idea of where to start, or 
>if someone just might know how to thread it correctly (that's the BIGGEST 
>problem I have), I appreciate it.  The machine has all the threading done 
>from the spool peg, to a guide at the top back, and then comes around to 
>be threaded on the left side of the machine, not on the front as most of 
>the newer models are these days.  So, any help... I'm planning to let 
>someone use the machine in just over a week, and it would help if I were 
>able to actually thread it!  Thanks much in advance.  I appreciate any 
>direction to locate a manual, or even just be able to correctly thread it.
>
>Pat Tucker
>Astrid of the Horde
>Never argue with a Dragon, for thou art crunchy and go well with Brie.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] hoop storage?
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Especially if you have a cat.  Or a curious small dog that can fit under the bed.   

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 
> I have seen people using the clothes bags. I would be leery of under the 
> bed, except if you vacuum under it frequently. 
> 
> Penny Ladnier, owner 
> The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com 
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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References: <9882D01216FC5249A2A41B86BD89559B045CD918@wcosmb01.cos.agilent.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hoop storage?
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2005 15:28:37 +0100
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Dear Sunny.
I would recomend you in the future to use Wissners artificially whaleboning. 
It comes in a width of nearly 1 inch and it is very suitable for this 
purpose, and as it is made of a plastic of a kind, you can bend it back in 
shape, if it distorts its original shape.
I use it even to make the large 18th century panier hoops with this, and it 
works very well.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <sunshine_buchler@agilent.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>; <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Friday, March 11, 2005 12:06 AM
Subject: [h-cost] hoop storage?


> What do people do to store their hoops (the Elizabethan/Victorian bell
> version, in specific)? Once upon a time I had instructions for how to
> twist mine up to fold it, but after ~10 years of doing so, my hoop is
> now rather lop-sided (but not in a useful elliptical way...sigh).
>
> Since I'm being fuzzy brained and can't decide what kind of hoop to use
> with my newest project, I just acquired 2 more, but I need to figure out
> a way to store them that will 1) fit in my apartment and 2) not distort
> the hoops. What go the good people on this list do?
> Thanks!!
> -sunny
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Mar 11 09:42:21 2005
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From: Lena Strid <lstrid@mglarc.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Online source for info on 17-18th century fabric
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I'm suddenly finding myself writing an archaeological report on
post-medieval fabrics from a site in Dublin. As my focus is the medieval
period, I'm a bit on thin ice here. Does anyone know of a good online source
for information on everyday wear, fabric materials etc from the 17th - 18th
century? I have only two days to write the report, so library hunting is
unfortunately out of the question. 

 

/Lena



=================================================
Margaret Gowen & Co. Ltd.
Archaeological Consultants & Project Managers
27 Merrion Square 
Dublin 2 
Tel: 01 7997200   Fax 01 7997201
e-mail: archaeology@mglarc.com
website: http://www.mglarc.com
=================================================

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Mar 11 09:44:17 2005
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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kebayas
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2005 09:44:51 -0500
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Fran, I can guess that you have already "googled" kebayas.  I was amazed at
the number of sites that came up. I only glanced at a couple of them to get
an idea of what you might be looking for. The newer ones seem to be "big
shirts" in modern parlance.  Do you want the fitted style?

kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lavolta Press" <fran@lavoltapress.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 10, 2005 10:40 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Kebayas


> Does anyone know where online to buy vintage kebayas (Indonesian blouses)?
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Mar 11 11:18:56 2005
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I searched for them extensively on Google and Dogpile last night.  I 
looked for "antique kebayas," "vintage kebayas," and "traditional 
kebayas."  I found a book on antique kebayas (which I ordered), a press 
release saying they are trendy in Asia, several references for stores or 
areas to shop for them if you travel to Indonesia, and one site that 
sells a few modern ones:

http://chantiqskaly.fotopages.com/

I have a beautiful traditional woman's kebaya in a very pale peach voile 
that is quite fitted (almost like an 1880s bodice), open in front, has 
rather long front points, and is elaborately emboidered at the hem and 
sleeve hems with a narrow embroidered border up the rest of the front 
and around the neck.  Is that the type you saw?

Thanks,

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com



Lloyd Mitchell wrote:

>Fran, I can guess that you have already "googled" kebayas.  I was amazed at
>the number of sites that came up. I only glanced at a couple of them to get
>an idea of what you might be looking for. The newer ones seem to be "big
>shirts" in modern parlance.  Do you want the fitted style?
>
>kathleen
>----- Original Message ----- 
>From: "Lavolta Press" <fran@lavoltapress.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Thursday, March 10, 2005 10:40 PM
>Subject: [h-cost] Kebayas
>
>
>  
>
>>Does anyone know where online to buy vintage kebayas (Indonesian blouses)?
>>
>>Fran
>>Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
>>http://www.lavoltapress.com
>>_______________________________________________
>>h-costume mailing list
>>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>    
>>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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>
>
>  
>
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Putting anything under the bed is bad Feng Shui too.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote:

From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2005 00:53:59 -0500
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hoop storage?

Have you thought about getting one of those ironing board hangers for the 
back of a door?  Seems that would work for a sturdy hanger.

I have seen people using the clothes bags.  I would be leery of under the 
bed, except if you vacuum under it frequently.

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com 


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Subject: [h-cost] Lots of books of manuscripts - Fwd: Half price offer from
 Brepols/Harvey Miller
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Oh, to have an unlimited book budget!
Joan

>From: <ian.stevens@dbbcdist.com>
>To: <joanmj@surewest.net>
>Subject: Half price offer from Brepols/Harvey Miller
>Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2005 12:21:30 -0700
>
>Dear Joan Jurancich,
>
>It has been 5 years since publishers Brepols and Harvey Miller began to
>work together and to celebrate this anniversary they have reduced the
>prices on a number of their titles. We in turn are pleased to make those
>savings available to our customers.
>
>Following is a list of the books on offer. All are now half price and they
>include the gorgeous volumes in Harvey Miller's "Manuscripts in Miniature"
>series.
>
>I hope you find something of interest.
>
>With regards,
>
>Ian Stevens
>The David Brown Book Company
>Tel: 1-800-791-9354
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>'Flemish Miniatures from the 8th to the mid-16th Century' - by Mauritis
>Smeyers
>List Price: US$ 155.00 * Our Price: US$ 77.50 *
>List Price: US$ 155.00
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=27860&MID=10786
>
>'The Hours of Mary of Burgundy' - by Nicolas Spierinc
>List Price: US$ 93.00 * Our Price: US$ 46.50 *
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=11591&MID=10786
>
>'The Bible Moralisée' - commentary by Gerald B. Guest
>List Price: US$ 93.00 * Our Price: US$ 46.50 *
>List Price: US$ 93.00
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=11590&MID=10786
>
>'The Hunting Book of Gaston Phébus' - edited by M Thomas, F Avril and W
>Schlag
>List Price: US$ 93.00 * Our Price: US$ 46.50 *
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=20864&MID=10786
>
>'Medicina Antiqua' - introduction by Peter Murray Jones
>List Price: US$ 93.00 * Our Price: US$ 46.50 *
>List Price: US$ 93.00
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=25313&MID=10786
>
>'Early Gothic Manuscripts (2) 1250-1285' - by N J Morgan
>List Price: US$ 113.00 * Our Price: US$ 56.50 *
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=1025&MID=10786
>
>'Later Gothic Manuscripts 1390-1490' - by Kathleen L. Scott
>List Price: US$ 280.00 * Our Price: US$ 140.00 *
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=16441&MID=10786
>
>'The Psalter of Robert de Lisle in the British Library' - by Lucy Freeman
>Sandler
>List Price: US$ 39.00 * Our Price: US$ 19.50 *
>List Price: US$ 39.00
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=10199&MID=10786
>
>'Ottonian Book Illumination: An Historical Study' - by Henry Mayr-Harting
>List Price: US$ 74.00 * Our Price: US$ 37.00 *
>List Price: US$ 145.00
>List Price: US$ 74.00
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=19401&MID=10786
>
>'Sigena: English Romanesque Paintings in Spain (HMSAH 1)' - by W.
>Oakeshotte
>List Price: US$ 113.00 * Our Price: US$ 56.50 *
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=53475&MID=10786
>
>'Conrad von Soest: Painter among merchant princes' - by Brigitte Corley
>List Price: US$ 85.00 * Our Price: US$ 42.50 *
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=20339&MID=10786
>
>'North-European Panel Painitngs. A Catalogue of Netherlandish and German
>Paintings before 1600 in English Churches and Colleges (HMSAH 6)' - by C.
>Grossinger
>List Price: US$ 63.00 * Our Price: US$ 31.50 *
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=49726&MID=10786
>
>'Robert Campin: New Directions in Scholarship (MAC 2)' - edited by S.
>Foister and S. Nash
>List Price: US$ 78.00 * Our Price: US$ 39.00 *
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=53506&MID=10786
>
>'The Drawings of Paul Bril: A Study of Their Role in Seventeenth-Century
>European Landscape (PICT 4)' - by L.W. Ruby
>List Price: US$ 110.00 * Our Price: US$ 55.00 *
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=53510&MID=10786
>
>'David III Ryckaert: Seventeenth-Century Flemish Peasant Painter (PICT
>6)' - by B. Van Haute
>List Price: US$ 110.00 * Our Price: US$ 55.00 *
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=53517&MID=10786
>
>'Albert & Isabella: The Promise of a Golden Age' - edited by L. Duerloo
>and W. Thomas
>List Price: US$ 60.00 * Our Price: US$ 30.00 *
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=53519&MID=10786
>
>'The Pilgrim's Guide to Santiago de Compostela: A Critical Edition in Two
>Volumes Volume I: The Manuscripts - Their Creation, Production and
>Reception Volume II: The Text - Annotated English Translation' - by Paula
>Gerson, Annie Shaver-Crandell, Alison Stones and Jeanne Krochalis
>List Price: US$ 55.00 * Our Price: US$ 27.50 *
>List Price: US$ 55.00
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=13928&MID=10786
>
>'The Inventory of King Henry VIII: Volume I, The Transcript' - edited by
>David Starkey, transcribed by Philip Ward and indexed by Alasdair Hawkyard
>List Price: US$ 148.00 * Our Price: US$ 74.00 *
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=8788&MID=10786


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From: Susan Farmer <sfarmer@utk.edu>
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> Putting anything under the bed is bad Feng Shui too.
>
> Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender

Hmmm  That's obviously part of my problem.  I think under the bed is the best 
place to store stuff ......

Susan/ Jerusha

-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Botany Department, University of Tennessee
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium

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From: "Elena O'Tighearnaigh Atha An Ri" <elena_4557@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Lots of books of manuscripts - Fwd: Half price offer from
	Brepols/Harvey Miller
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2005 12:47:52 -0800
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Status: RO

*wwwaaaaahhhh* *sniffling*...And to think I selling off my books this 
weekend!  Oh the agony...*sigh*.

But I'll forward it to my friends...who I hope will be at my moving sale 
instead...

Elena

>
>>From: <ian.stevens@dbbcdist.com>
>>To: <joanmj@surewest.net>
>>Subject: Half price offer from Brepols/Harvey Miller
>>Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2005 12:21:30 -0700
>>
>>Dear Joan Jurancich,
>>
>>It has been 5 years since publishers Brepols and Harvey Miller began to
>>work together and to celebrate this anniversary they have reduced the
>>prices on a number of their titles. We in turn are pleased to make those
>>savings available to our customers.
>>
>>Following is a list of the books on offer. All are now half price and they
>>include the gorgeous volumes in Harvey Miller's "Manuscripts in Miniature"
>>series.
>>
>>I hope you find something of interest.
>>
>>With regards,
>>
>>Ian Stevens
>>The David Brown Book Company
>>Tel: 1-800-791-9354
>>
>>---------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>'Flemish Miniatures from the 8th to the mid-16th Century' - by Mauritis
>>Smeyers
>>List Price: US$ 155.00 * Our Price: US$ 77.50 *
>>List Price: US$ 155.00
>>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=27860&MID=10786
>>
>>'The Hours of Mary of Burgundy' - by Nicolas Spierinc
>>List Price: US$ 93.00 * Our Price: US$ 46.50 *
>>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=11591&MID=10786
>>
>>'The Bible Moralisée' - commentary by Gerald B. Guest
>>List Price: US$ 93.00 * Our Price: US$ 46.50 *
>>List Price: US$ 93.00
>>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=11590&MID=10786
>>
>>'The Hunting Book of Gaston Phébus' - edited by M Thomas, F Avril and W
>>Schlag
>>List Price: US$ 93.00 * Our Price: US$ 46.50 *
>>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=20864&MID=10786
>>
>>'Medicina Antiqua' - introduction by Peter Murray Jones
>>List Price: US$ 93.00 * Our Price: US$ 46.50 *
>>List Price: US$ 93.00
>>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=25313&MID=10786
>>
>>'Early Gothic Manuscripts (2) 1250-1285' - by N J Morgan
>>List Price: US$ 113.00 * Our Price: US$ 56.50 *
>>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=1025&MID=10786
>>
>>'Later Gothic Manuscripts 1390-1490' - by Kathleen L. Scott
>>List Price: US$ 280.00 * Our Price: US$ 140.00 *
>>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=16441&MID=10786
>>
>>'The Psalter of Robert de Lisle in the British Library' - by Lucy Freeman
>>Sandler
>>List Price: US$ 39.00 * Our Price: US$ 19.50 *
>>List Price: US$ 39.00
>>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=10199&MID=10786
>>
>>'Ottonian Book Illumination: An Historical Study' - by Henry Mayr-Harting
>>List Price: US$ 74.00 * Our Price: US$ 37.00 *
>>List Price: US$ 145.00
>>List Price: US$ 74.00
>>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=19401&MID=10786
>>
>>'Sigena: English Romanesque Paintings in Spain (HMSAH 1)' - by W.
>>Oakeshotte
>>List Price: US$ 113.00 * Our Price: US$ 56.50 *
>>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=53475&MID=10786
>>
>>'Conrad von Soest: Painter among merchant princes' - by Brigitte Corley
>>List Price: US$ 85.00 * Our Price: US$ 42.50 *
>>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=20339&MID=10786
>>
>>'North-European Panel Painitngs. A Catalogue of Netherlandish and German
>>Paintings before 1600 in English Churches and Colleges (HMSAH 6)' - by C.
>>Grossinger
>>List Price: US$ 63.00 * Our Price: US$ 31.50 *
>>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=49726&MID=10786
>>
>>'Robert Campin: New Directions in Scholarship (MAC 2)' - edited by S.
>>Foister and S. Nash
>>List Price: US$ 78.00 * Our Price: US$ 39.00 *
>>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=53506&MID=10786
>>
>>'The Drawings of Paul Bril: A Study of Their Role in Seventeenth-Century
>>European Landscape (PICT 4)' - by L.W. Ruby
>>List Price: US$ 110.00 * Our Price: US$ 55.00 *
>>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=53510&MID=10786
>>
>>'David III Ryckaert: Seventeenth-Century Flemish Peasant Painter (PICT
>>6)' - by B. Van Haute
>>List Price: US$ 110.00 * Our Price: US$ 55.00 *
>>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=53517&MID=10786
>>
>>'Albert & Isabella: The Promise of a Golden Age' - edited by L. Duerloo
>>and W. Thomas
>>List Price: US$ 60.00 * Our Price: US$ 30.00 *
>>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=53519&MID=10786
>>
>>'The Pilgrim's Guide to Santiago de Compostela: A Critical Edition in Two
>>Volumes Volume I: The Manuscripts - Their Creation, Production and
>>Reception Volume II: The Text - Annotated English Translation' - by Paula
>>Gerson, Annie Shaver-Crandell, Alison Stones and Jeanne Krochalis
>>List Price: US$ 55.00 * Our Price: US$ 27.50 *
>>List Price: US$ 55.00
>>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=13928&MID=10786
>>
>>'The Inventory of King Henry VIII: Volume I, The Transcript' - edited by
>>David Starkey, transcribed by Philip Ward and indexed by Alasdair Hawkyard
>>List Price: US$ 148.00 * Our Price: US$ 74.00 *
>>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=8788&MID=10786
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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Elena O'Tighearnaigh A'tha An Ri
Emer's Needle Wares
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sunshine_buchler@agilent.com wrote:
> What do people do to store their hoops (the Elizabethan/Victorian bell
> version, in specific)? Once upon a time I had instructions for how to

I hang mine on the back wall of a closet with a clothes-hanger. Works 
well enough.
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From: Lady Satine <seamuslady@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lots of books of manuscripts - Fwd: Half price offer
	from Brepols/Harvey Miller
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Drool!!!!!
 
Satine


Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net> wrote:
Oh, to have an unlimited book budget!
Joan

>From: 
>To: 
>Subject: Half price offer from Brepols/Harvey Miller
>Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2005 12:21:30 -0700
>
>Dear Joan Jurancich,
>
>It has been 5 years since publishers Brepols and Harvey Miller began to
>work together and to celebrate this anniversary they have reduced the
>prices on a number of their titles. We in turn are pleased to make those
>savings available to our customers.
>
>Following is a list of the books on offer. All are now half price and they
>include the gorgeous volumes in Harvey Miller's "Manuscripts in Miniature"
>series.
>
>I hope you find something of interest.
>
>With regards,
>
>Ian Stevens
>The David Brown Book Company
>Tel: 1-800-791-9354
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>'Flemish Miniatures from the 8th to the mid-16th Century' - by Mauritis
>Smeyers
>List Price: US$ 155.00 * Our Price: US$ 77.50 *
>List Price: US$ 155.00
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=27860&MID=10786
>
>'The Hours of Mary of Burgundy' - by Nicolas Spierinc
>List Price: US$ 93.00 * Our Price: US$ 46.50 *
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=11591&MID=10786
>
>'The Bible Moralisée' - commentary by Gerald B. Guest
>List Price: US$ 93.00 * Our Price: US$ 46.50 *
>List Price: US$ 93.00
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=11590&MID=10786
>
>'The Hunting Book of Gaston Phébus' - edited by M Thomas, F Avril and W
>Schlag
>List Price: US$ 93.00 * Our Price: US$ 46.50 *
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=20864&MID=10786
>
>'Medicina Antiqua' - introduction by Peter Murray Jones
>List Price: US$ 93.00 * Our Price: US$ 46.50 *
>List Price: US$ 93.00
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=25313&MID=10786
>
>'Early Gothic Manuscripts (2) 1250-1285' - by N J Morgan
>List Price: US$ 113.00 * Our Price: US$ 56.50 *
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=1025&MID=10786
>
>'Later Gothic Manuscripts 1390-1490' - by Kathleen L. Scott
>List Price: US$ 280.00 * Our Price: US$ 140.00 *
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=16441&MID=10786
>
>'The Psalter of Robert de Lisle in the British Library' - by Lucy Freeman
>Sandler
>List Price: US$ 39.00 * Our Price: US$ 19.50 *
>List Price: US$ 39.00
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=10199&MID=10786
>
>'Ottonian Book Illumination: An Historical Study' - by Henry Mayr-Harting
>List Price: US$ 74.00 * Our Price: US$ 37.00 *
>List Price: US$ 145.00
>List Price: US$ 74.00
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=19401&MID=10786
>
>'Sigena: English Romanesque Paintings in Spain (HMSAH 1)' - by W.
>Oakeshotte
>List Price: US$ 113.00 * Our Price: US$ 56.50 *
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=53475&MID=10786
>
>'Conrad von Soest: Painter among merchant princes' - by Brigitte Corley
>List Price: US$ 85.00 * Our Price: US$ 42.50 *
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=20339&MID=10786
>
>'North-European Panel Painitngs. A Catalogue of Netherlandish and German
>Paintings before 1600 in English Churches and Colleges (HMSAH 6)' - by C.
>Grossinger
>List Price: US$ 63.00 * Our Price: US$ 31.50 *
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=49726&MID=10786
>
>'Robert Campin: New Directions in Scholarship (MAC 2)' - edited by S.
>Foister and S. Nash
>List Price: US$ 78.00 * Our Price: US$ 39.00 *
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=53506&MID=10786
>
>'The Drawings of Paul Bril: A Study of Their Role in Seventeenth-Century
>European Landscape (PICT 4)' - by L.W. Ruby
>List Price: US$ 110.00 * Our Price: US$ 55.00 *
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=53510&MID=10786
>
>'David III Ryckaert: Seventeenth-Century Flemish Peasant Painter (PICT
>6)' - by B. Van Haute
>List Price: US$ 110.00 * Our Price: US$ 55.00 *
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=53517&MID=10786
>
>'Albert & Isabella: The Promise of a Golden Age' - edited by L. Duerloo
>and W. Thomas
>List Price: US$ 60.00 * Our Price: US$ 30.00 *
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=53519&MID=10786
>
>'The Pilgrim's Guide to Santiago de Compostela: A Critical Edition in Two
>Volumes Volume I: The Manuscripts - Their Creation, Production and
>Reception Volume II: The Text - Annotated English Translation' - by Paula
>Gerson, Annie Shaver-Crandell, Alison Stones and Jeanne Krochalis
>List Price: US$ 55.00 * Our Price: US$ 27.50 *
>List Price: US$ 55.00
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=13928&MID=10786
>
>'The Inventory of King Henry VIII: Volume I, The Transcript' - edited by
>David Starkey, transcribed by Philip Ward and indexed by Alasdair Hawkyard
>List Price: US$ 148.00 * Our Price: US$ 74.00 *
>Link: http://www.oxbowbooks.com/bookinfo.cfm?ID=8788&MID=10786


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Thread & Jo-ann
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The Gutterman silk threads are lovely to sew with, hand OR machine!
Joannah

--- jaurbik@optonline.net wrote:

From: jaurbik@optonline.net
Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2005 10:26:28 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] Silk Thread & Jo-ann

I stopped at Jo-ann's yeasterday (just for some hand-sewing needles) and discorved something nice (for once at jo-anns). They are now carrying more kinds of gutterman's threads, including cotton and SILK threads.  They seemed to have about 30 diffrent colors of the silk in 100m-110y spools and each spool cost about $3.90.     This is about 60 cents more per spool then Dharma Traders but you don't pay shipping-but you do pay taxes.....so it is still more expenve i guess, but it is easier to match colors then online.

anyway, I have switched to mostly silk thread cause i mostly sew wool, linen, or silk so I thought I would give a heads up.  They asked me to participate in a phone in survey so I made sure to mention how much I liked the fact that  they were now carrying the silk thread.  

jordana

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Need a favor, Indianapolis area
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I hope one of the medieval re-enactors on this list is from Indianapolis.
I'd like to beg a favor.

A friend of mine in Indianapolis has a 12-year-old son in middle school.
His social studies teacher has a thing for elaborate projects,
unfortunately requiring a lot of parental involvement on very short
notice. Yesterday the teacher announced that the class would be doing a
medieval feast for them. The parents will be bringing and serving the
foods, and the kids have each been assigned a role of a medieval person.
They need to do an oral presentation about a typical day in the life of
that person, with props and costume. All this by Friday (a week from now).

This boy's character is a carter -- thus, working class. My friend not
only had no idea what medieval people would wear, she had no idea what a
carter was. Her son did, fortunately, and she expects he'll do fine on the
report. The costume is another matter. My friend does not sew AT ALL. I've
pointed her to some pictures and websites and suggested basic tunic and
leggings, but even that is beyond her. (I don't want to suggest a
two-towel tabard, but that's probably about the limit of her costuming
skill.)

So, I'm hoping that someone on this list might be from that area, and
maybe know someone who would have a suitable costume to loan. I know she
will be very very grateful.

Tall order, I know, but worth a try.

--Robin

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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th 17th century patterns?
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Wow!

--- KV59213@aol.com wrote:

From: KV59213@aol.com
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2005 16:45:52 EST
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th 17th century patterns?

hi,
for all 16th,17th century historical costumes, contact my cousin, who makes 
allthis type of costume for british and european  television and theatre 
companys,she will be back in a day or two, as she is in sweden at the moment with 
her medieval dancing troup,, to give you some idea of what she does, she made 
all the costumes for the tv film, henry the 8th, and his six wives, played by 
keith michell etc
hugs
pippa
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar 12 03:03:54 2005
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From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
To: Historical Costume List <h-costume@net.indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Silk Brocade
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http://dollarfabric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=00000001&Category_Code=2054

I recieved my samples of these silk brocades - they
really ARE silk, burned like it, disintegrated in
bleach like it... it's gotta be a duck.

The overall weave is fairly thin but the metal threads
keep it stiff. The metal threads slip out as fast as
breathe on them though. The seams would have to be
completely finished in order to sustain any wear and
tear. The rondels are approximately 12 cm in diameter
based on my estimation - they gave me samples that
were too small to include a complete repeat. I
assembled them together into best estimate and
measured from there.

Thought I'd give a review on my findings. :-)

Kathy

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From: Lady Satine <seamuslady@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th 17th century patterns?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Double wow... does she havea  site that all these amazing things are on. maybe some of her other work????? 
 
Thanks 
Satine

Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net> wrote:
Wow!

--- KV59213@aol.com wrote:

From: KV59213@aol.com
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2005 16:45:52 EST
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th 17th century patterns?

hi,
for all 16th,17th century historical costumes, contact my cousin, who makes 
allthis type of costume for british and european television and theatre 
companys,she will be back in a day or two, as she is in sweden at the moment with 
her medieval dancing troup,, to give you some idea of what she does, she made 
all the costumes for the tv film, henry the 8th, and his six wives, played by 
keith michell etc
hugs
pippa
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar 12 03:26:55 2005
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th 17th century patterns?
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At 23:40 11/03/2005 -0800, you wrote:
>Wow!
>
>--- KV59213@aol.com wrote:
>
>From: KV59213@aol.com
>Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2005 16:45:52 EST
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th 17th century patterns?
>
>hi,
>for all 16th,17th century historical costumes, contact my cousin, who makes
>allthis type of costume for british and european  television and theatre
>companys,she will be back in a day or two, as she is in sweden at the 
>moment with
>her medieval dancing troup,, to give you some idea of what she does, she made
>all the costumes for the tv film, henry the 8th, and his six wives, played by
>keith michell etc


In fact Jean Hunnisett made the costumes for the "Wives", and not Pippa's 
cousin, (a lady called Jane Gingell, who now runs an extremely successful 
dance group called Timedance.) The costumes were made in house at the BBC 
in the days when they did such things. John Bloomfield was the designer, 
and because of the budget constraints, many of the costumes were decorated 
with spray paints, "gunk" or a PVA glue and powder paint mixture, and many 
of the jewels were coke bottle tops. Also lavatory chains were used for 
neck chains! The success of that show led to the production of Elizabeth R. 
(Jean Hunnisett made Glenda Jackson's clothes, designed by Elizabeth Waller.)

Here endeth the history lesson - sorry!

Suzi


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At 00:14 12/03/2005 -0800, you wrote:
>Double wow... does she havea  site that all these amazing things are on. 
>maybe some of her other work?????
>
>Thanks
>Satine


I have photographs of the 6 wives, (made by Jean Hunnisett - see my 
previous post) and one or two of Henry. I can e-mail them to you if you like.

Suzi


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Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2005 08:33:38 -0500
From: "Elizabeth" <thebarefoot.contessa@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th 17th century patterns?
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Does your cousin have a website?

Elizabeth
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joannah Hansen" <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2005 2:40 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th 17th century patterns?


> Wow!
>
> --- KV59213@aol.com wrote:
>
> From: KV59213@aol.com
> Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2005 16:45:52 EST
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th 17th century patterns?
>
> hi,
> for all 16th,17th century historical costumes, contact my cousin, who
makes
> allthis type of costume for british and european  television and theatre
> companys,she will be back in a day or two, as she is in sweden at the
moment with
> her medieval dancing troup,, to give you some idea of what she does, she
made
> all the costumes for the tv film, henry the 8th, and his six wives, played
by
> keith michell etc
> hugs
> pippa
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> Sluggy.Net: The Sluggy Freelance Community!
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	<002401c52646$9fdaa5c0$4096fea9@CPQ21932199711>
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Subject: [h-cost] Attention Bjarne-Wissners artifical whale boning-
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Where do you buy this Bjarne?  I cannot find a source online.
Thanks,

Sg

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> Dear Sunny.
> I would recomend you in the future to use Wissners artificially 
> whaleboning. It comes in a width of nearly 1 inch and it is very 
> suitable for this purpose, and as it is made of a plastic of a kind, 
> you can bend it back in shape, if it distorts its original shape.
> I use it even to make the large 18th century panier hoops with this, 
> and it works very well.
>
> Bjarne
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: <sunshine_buchler@agilent.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>; <h-costume@net.indra.com>
> Sent: Friday, March 11, 2005 12:06 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] hoop storage?
>
>
>> What do people do to store their hoops (the Elizabethan/Victorian bell
>> version, in specific)? Once upon a time I had instructions for how to
>> twist mine up to fold it, but after ~10 years of doing so, my hoop is
>> now rather lop-sided (but not in a useful elliptical way...sigh).
>>
>> Since I'm being fuzzy brained and can't decide what kind of hoop to use
>> with my newest project, I just acquired 2 more, but I need to figure out
>> a way to store them that will 1) fit in my apartment and 2) not distort
>> the hoops. What go the good people on this list do?
>> Thanks!!
>> -sunny
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar 12 09:03:16 2005
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] maskmaking
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Did you look in the archives?  Start here: 
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
down towards the bottom it will tell you about your archive search options.

Sg

~Angelique wrote:

>Good Evening,
>
>     I swear it was from this list I got the information. A few months ago someone posted a research on maskmaking. Can anyone help me find the post?
>
>                                Bless You,  
>
>                              Angelique
>
>
>		
>---------------------------------
>Do you Yahoo!?
> Make Yahoo! your home page   
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar 12 09:07:27 2005
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sewing machine assistance request
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Beth's advice is very good.  You should be servicing your machine ~once 
a year even if you don't use it.  If this one has been sitting around 
for awhile, it will really need it!  Plus they may be able to point you 
in a direction to get a manual and/or help you with the basics.  If, in 
the end, you they are unable to help you, you might look on Yahoo 
groups.  There is a sewing machine repair group (yes, can you believe 
it?)  They have been very helpful to me in the past with tough questions.



Sg

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th 17th century patterns?
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At 08:33 12/03/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>Does your cousin have a website?
>
>Elizabeth
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Joannah Hansen" <Joannah@sluggy.net>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2005 2:40 AM
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th 17th century patterns?
>
>
> > Wow!
> >
> > --- KV59213@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > From: KV59213@aol.com
> > Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2005 16:45:52 EST
> > To: h-costume@indra.com
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] 16th 17th century patterns?
> >
> > hi,
> > for all 16th,17th century historical costumes, contact my cousin, who
>makes
> > allthis type of costume for british and european  television and theatre
> > companys,she will be back in a day or two, as she is in sweden at the
>moment with
> > her medieval dancing troup,, to give you some idea of what she does, she
>made
> > all the costumes for the tv film, henry the 8th, and his six wives, played
>by
> > keith michell etc
> > hugs
> > pippa


See my previous posts on this subject. Pippa's cousin is a lady called Jane 
Gingell, (private post to me) and she runs a dance group called, I think, 
Timedance. I found a web site for it, but cannot now find it.

Suzi


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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 16th 17th century patterns?
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Just send them to the whole list.  I know I would LOVE to see them.  Anne

>I have photographs of the 6 wives, (made by Jean Hunnisett - see my 
>previous post) and one or two of Henry. I can e-mail them to you if you
>like.

>Suzi


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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Laura Waack" <pottratzwaack@hotmail.com>


> Another thought:  cut out the sleeve, cut out a piece to line it, and cut 
> out a piece of very light fusible interfacing.  pin the facing and sleeve 
> right sides together with the interfacing between.  Mark slashes, stitch 
> around, and slach.  Then, carefully, cut the material in sorta-squares 
> around each slash.  Turn everything in.  Iron.  The interfacing should 
> hold the facing to the inner sleeve, the slashes would be finished.
>
> Opinions?


If I'm understanding your description right, it sounds like it would work 
fine, although depending on how finger-pressable the material is, it might 
drive you absolutely nuts during the process!  Getting everything turned in, 
in the right order, with the interfacing clipped just the right amount, and 
getting it all to stay put until you can iron it permanently into place 
might wind up taking a lot longer than just turning and stitching as you go 
in the first place.

But then maybe I'm just not too good at working with fusible interfacing, 
since it always seems to take me at least twice as long as I think it should 
when I put it in the mix. =}

-E House 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] 16th 17th century patterns?
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At 09:50 12/03/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>Just send them to the whole list.  I know I would LOVE to see them.  Anne
>
> >I have photographs of the 6 wives, (made by Jean Hunnisett - see my
> >previous post) and one or two of Henry. I can e-mail them to you if you
> >like.


I will have to work out how - bear with me everyone, please.

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: KC fabric Stores
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Thanks. I am actually heading towards Overland Park so may look them up. I 
like those small stores!


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Catherine Kinsey" <ckinsey@kumc.edu>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 28, 2005 8:21 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: KC fabric Stores


> While I agree w/ Dawn's comparison of our stores to LA or NY,  if you
> are stuck in KC Cy's, and Kaplan's, are not to bad.  Both can be very
> pricey but Cy's has a sale table, and regular big sales several times a
> year.  He has employed, over the years, several clerks who have done
> historic costume and they have been able to recommend types of fabric
> for him to look for on his buying trips.  He also has the best button
> selection in town :).
>
> A store for good bargains, altho selection is hit & miss, is a little
> storefront in Overland Park (suburb of KC) called Abida's Fabric.  Very
> small, selection limited, but if you  find something you want chances
> are it will be a great buy.
>
> Catherine
> back from surgery and still trying to catchup on digests
> _______________________________________________
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> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Butterick pattern
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>Hope Martha McCain does a pattern for Simplicity of this "French court
>dress" or other 18th c gowns down the road.  Sophia Coppola is doing a film
>with Kirsten Dunst as Marie Antoinette, based on the Antonia Fraser
>biography, "Marie Antoinette: The Journey" which will surely create a
>demand for authentic 18th century costumes.


The fabric for this dress on their website doesn't look all that appealing.
Not sure if it's the same picture you have (#4485).  The design looks
terribly awkward.  

Do you know when the Marie Antionette movie is coming out?  

Jaedyn



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From: "khanson" <khanson@kc.rr.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: KC fabric Stores
Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2005 10:24:54 -0600
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I think she actually means Addadi's Fabrics. They are at 9629 W 87th street,
kind of hidden in a strip mall behind a McDonald's. It will be on the south
side of 87th. Be sure to tell them you do historical costuming or Ren Faire
or SCA or whatever, because they do understand what that means and will
often cut you a special deal.

Talia

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Jan Zimmerman
Sent: Monday, February 28, 2005 9:46 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: KC fabric Stores


Thanks. I am actually heading towards Overland Park so may look them up. I
like those small stores!


----- Original Message -----
From: "Catherine Kinsey" <ckinsey@kumc.edu>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, February 28, 2005 8:21 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: KC fabric Stores


> While I agree w/ Dawn's comparison of our stores to LA or NY,  if you
> are stuck in KC Cy's, and Kaplan's, are not to bad.  Both can be very
> pricey but Cy's has a sale table, and regular big sales several times a
> year.  He has employed, over the years, several clerks who have done
> historic costume and they have been able to recommend types of fabric
> for him to look for on his buying trips.  He also has the best button
> selection in town :).
>
> A store for good bargains, altho selection is hit & miss, is a little
> storefront in Overland Park (suburb of KC) called Abida's Fabric.  Very
> small, selection limited, but if you  find something you want chances
> are it will be a great buy.
>
> Catherine
> back from surgery and still trying to catchup on digests
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oscars
Date: Tue, 1 Mar 2005 10:17:54 -0600
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There are two different likes, the one where it is good for them and then 
there is the good for us.

For her, yes it works, for me .... _not_ ... I would be choking all night 
long. It reminds me of the wedding dress that my mother made for me. I was 
choking the entire time I was wearing it. Marriage lasted 6 months.

So you see, most of our opinions on what they wore are going to be 90% based 
on what we think we would look in them. ;)

I actually loved what the 6ft tall models handing over the Oscars to the 
quests were wearing, _that_ did not make me feel like I was choking. I would 
love to have the body again to wear those. :)

(`'·.¸(`'·.¸(`'·.¸¸.·'´)¸.· '´)¸.·'´)
«·.·*¨`·¤ Chiara ¤·´¨*·.·»
(¸.·'´(¸.·'´(¸.·'´`'·.¸)`'· .¸)`'·.¸)
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sylvia Rognstad" <sylvia@ntw.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 01, 2005 10:14 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Oscars


: What did everyone think of the fashions on the Academy Awards?  I seem
: to be alone in liking Hilary Swank's dress.  She certainly has the body
: for it.
:
: Sylrog
:
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In a message dated 3/1/2005 11:09:23 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
sylvia@ntw.net writes:

I seem  
to be alone in liking Hilary Swank's dress.


I liked it. But I thought it was too tight. I mean there's snug and there's  
TIGHT.
 
The soft clingy Versace 30's evening shift that's been around since the  80s  
seems to be morphing into a structured form fitting sorta 1950's shift  with 
a train.
It all looks retro to me. None of it looks modern. But I suppose dressing  
for evening nowadays IS retro and a costume.
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>>What did  everyone think of the fashions on the Academy  Awards?
>>----------------------------
My favorite was Beyonce's black silk velvet "Siren" gown.....very elegant!
Melinda~


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Oooooh, another fabric store online....
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I have ordered samples of this fabric in all three
colours. I have a rush order 11th c. Byzantine I have
to make and wanted to see hand and pattern size -
there's nothing to judge the size of the repeat
against. If it's the right weight and reasonably large
enough pattern... I have found my winner.
Once it arrives I'll make the appropriate fabric god
fire sacrifices and let you know what happens. :-)

Kathy

> I wish they gave fiber contents.  At $24.95 a yard,
> I wonder if the  "silk 
> brocade" is all silk.
>  
> Ann Wass


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In a message dated 3/1/2005 12:47:42 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

they  decried Johnny Depp's spats. No  
spats in sight...nada, nicht,  none.



So what did they think looked like spats?  Was he wearing 2-toned  shoes, or 
white socks, or something?
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oscars
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> not Swanks trashy gimmicky get up. YUK! Ugly from the 
>front; trashy in the  
> back.


When I think about how much I *like* something, it's 
usually in reference to how much I'd like to wear it or 
something similar. Ha.

If I had a back like that and her figure, I'd be wearing 
as trashy as it comes!  I do agree, though, from the front 
that dress looks like it's been put on backwards.

Since I have never been and never will be built like that, 
I'm more interested in the technical details. How is a 
dress like that worn w/o making it gap?  Is it glued on? 
Are there stays all over inside?  Wouldn't it get messed 
up by sitting?

Denise
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oscars/nude fabric
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If you watch Cher's videos of her last two tours she is wearing a lot of the 
nude fabric.  I think the catch is getting it dyed as close to your skin 
color so that no one notices.

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com 


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Sorry didn't reply earlier but computer access became limited to late at 
night and I tend to miss things.  No I don't have anything but the pattern and no 
way to scan it into the computer to show you.  But decided that since I really 
like to sew and really hate writing papers that that was what I would do.  So 
thanks for the interest. Yes it is for SCA and I may have had my time frame 
off.  Sorry to cause you to waste your time now that I finally figured out what 
I want to do instead of what it was strongly suggested I do.  

Sincerely 
Theresa
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In a message dated 3/1/2005 8:06:11 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
penny@costumegallery.com writes:

how is  Versace vintage?



well it IS from the 80s.....like 20 years ago.
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>C'mon! You don't need a pattern! It's a crescent shape. It stops just at  the
>front of the hips. [so the waist measurement of the inside curve is maybe 2"
>or 3" more than 1/2 your waist measurement.] No padding in front.

Or you could just make a tube the right diameter for the back part, long 
enough to reach all the way around you and with tie strings on each 
end.  Stuff it with about half as much padding as would fill it, and pack 
the padding toward the middle so that the ends get smaller at the tie strings.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
             ////-@@\\\
            ((((   7 )))
             (((  <> ))))
                )   ((((((
           /----\   /---\))

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Would you send me the email address?  Thanks, Gytha

Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net> wrote:I received an email from the publisher of the NESAT 6 volume today. They 
are considering reprinting if they get enough requests. They can be 
contacted at:

Department of Archaeology Göteborg University
Box 200
SE-405 30 GÖTEBORG
Tel. 0046 31 773 46 14

To avoid afflicting spam upon them, I am not posting their email address to 
the list. I will send it privately on request.

Beth Matney 


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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oscars
Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2005 12:34:59 -0500
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On Tuesday 01 March 2005 2:20 pm, Mark Ostrem wrote:
> > not Swanks trashy gimmicky get up. YUK! Ugly from the
> >front; trashy in the
> > back.
>
> When I think about how much I *like* something, it's
> usually in reference to how much I'd like to wear it or
> something similar. Ha.

Whereas there are garments I like because I know I'd look good in them, and 
garments that I know I could never wear that, nonetheless, look great on the 
original wearers.

I think Swank's dress wasn't bad, but could have used a few tweaks to the 
design to be maximally impressive on her.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] dress styles in 18th century-Brunswick image
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david webb <alderweb@vaxxine.com> wrote
>On page 175 of Stella Tillyard's "Aristocrats: the illustrated 
>companion to the television series" there is a reproduction of  a 
>painting of  Lady Mary Fox in a grey/blue? Brunswick c. 1767. The 18th 
>century version of the "hoodie"! Self-fabric trimming is as equally 
>elaborate as in the other styles of the period, such as the sack.
>
snip
>
>The costumes for the series seem mediocre and lots of the factoids are 
>wrong, but some excellent images in the book if you find it in the 
>remainder bin.
>
>Sheridan Alder
>
Skip the TV series and read the original book.  It's absolutely 
wonderful - you could see yourself having lunch with these women, 
chatting about fashion and home improvements, and giggling about sex 
(all very pre-Victorian!), but then you come across another example of 
the absolutely gobsmacking extravagance of the ultra-rich and 
ultra-well-connected.

Jean
-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oscars
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On Wednesday 02 March 2005 7:21 am, AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:
[snip]
>
> Looked very elegant until you saw that her bosom were fully visible--not my
> idea of elegance or class!!

I disagree with you on that point, though I'll admit that part of my opinion 
may be based on my personal belief that Ms. Berry may as well show off her 
magnificent torso and breasts since she has little else to boast of.  :-)

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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In a message dated 3/2/2005 3:42:08 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
penny@costumegallery.com writes:

If I  recall, the print was placed to hide her nipples.  I have the old  
magazines for Oscar fashions.  When I come across her photo, I will  let you 
know.




Well, the general press tried not to show the whole view, and when I saw  it, 
I thought it looked decidedly vulgar.  Call me a prude, old-fashioned,  
whatever, but . . . .
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Attention Bjarne-Wissners artifical whale boning-
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Hi,

We carry both the 11mm and 7mm (1/2" and 1/4") plastic whalebone.

Best regards,

Suzanne
Grannd Companies
http://www.grannd.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Wicked Frau" <wickedfrau@earthlink.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2005 9:01 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Attention Bjarne-Wissners artifical whale boning-


> Where do you buy this Bjarne?  I cannot find a source online.
> Thanks,
>
> Sg
>
> Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>
>> Dear Sunny.
>> I would recomend you in the future to use Wissners artificially 
>> whaleboning. It comes in a width of nearly 1 inch and it is very suitable 
>> for this purpose, and as it is made of a plastic of a kind, you can bend 
>> it back in shape, if it distorts its original shape.
>> I use it even to make the large 18th century panier hoops with this, and 
>> it works very well.
>>
>> Bjarne
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: <sunshine_buchler@agilent.com>
>> To: <h-costume@indra.com>; <h-costume@net.indra.com>
>> Sent: Friday, March 11, 2005 12:06 AM
>> Subject: [h-cost] hoop storage?
>>
>>
>>> What do people do to store their hoops (the Elizabethan/Victorian bell
>>> version, in specific)? Once upon a time I had instructions for how to
>>> twist mine up to fold it, but after ~10 years of doing so, my hoop is
>>> now rather lop-sided (but not in a useful elliptical way...sigh).
>>>
>>> Since I'm being fuzzy brained and can't decide what kind of hoop to use
>>> with my newest project, I just acquired 2 more, but I need to figure out
>>> a way to store them that will 1) fit in my apartment and 2) not distort
>>> the hoops. What go the good people on this list do?
>>> Thanks!!
>>> -sunny
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
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>>
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar 12 12:54:38 2005
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20050303032757.53963.qmail@web41823.mail.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A few Historic (or Hysteric) films  I've wondered about
Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2005 00:10:16 -0500
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Restoration is one of my favorite costume/set design films.  The story was a 
snooze to me, only boring movie that I just watched costumes and set design 
all the way through on my first viewing.  I knew within minutes of watching 
the film that it would take the Oscars for costume and set designs. And it 
did.

My treasured moment... Some of the old-timers on the list might remember 
Miss Mela that was on the list a long time ago.  She teaches at Fullerton 
College and has done some costume work for films... such a knowledgeable 
person. She went to the premiere of Restoration in Hollywood.  At the 
premiere they gave every person a full-color book about the film.  The 
costumes were so striking in the book.  Mela knew I loved the costumes and 
set design in Restoration and she gave me her premiere book.  I will always 
cherish the book and it was such a thoughtful gift.

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oscars
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Ann,

In the mid to late 1970s, it was fashionable for guys to wear those sheer / 
net football jerseys too.  Those look pretty sexy on guys with build bodies. 
Remember when they went to the cropped look in these jerseys?

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
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I found the costume in the film. Thank goodness for DVDs on computer.  You 
can stop and get a really good look and compare the photo of the costume. 
The costume was from the final scene with Velma and Roxie with the 
guns....its their costumes.  What throw me off was the nude/skin colored 
fabric on the low neckline.  It didn't match the mannequin's color and was a 
darker beige.  The fringe on this costume is wonderful!

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com 


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Actually, there is a body glue that models and beauty contestants use to hold their gowns closed.  

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- "Mark Ostrem" <landofoz@netins.net> wrote:

From: "Mark Ostrem" <landofoz@netins.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Mar 2005 13:20:29 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oscars


> not Swanks trashy gimmicky get up. YUK! Ugly from the 
>front; trashy in the  
> back.


When I think about how much I *like* something, it's 
usually in reference to how much I'd like to wear it or 
something similar. Ha.

If I had a back like that and her figure, I'd be wearing 
as trashy as it comes!  I do agree, though, from the front 
that dress looks like it's been put on backwards.

Since I have never been and never will be built like that, 
I'm more interested in the technical details. How is a 
dress like that worn w/o making it gap?  Is it glued on? 
Are there stays all over inside?  Wouldn't it get messed 
up by sitting?

Denise
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I just got more than 20 messages (mostly about the Oscars) from March 1-2
dumped into my box. The list really has been constipated, hasn't it?

--Robin


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] A Term I need explained
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Oh, thanks so much for this wonderful word! I read these postings in my office in the English department of my university and immediately shared "mahoitre" with a colleague in the next office. We decided it would be a wonderful thing to call somebody--as my colleague suggested, a sort of "stuffed shirt" (oh, you old mahoiter!).

Then I realized we already do say to people "oh, don't be so hoity-toity."

Back to dictionary:
The OED gives this etymology for mahoitre:
[< French mahoître (also maheutre; 15th cent. in Middle French; 13th cent. in Old French as mahustre in sense ‘shoulder, upper arm’; cf. Anglo-Norman mahustre, mahutre upper arm); further etymology disputed.]

According to the OED, the term “hoity-toity” didn’t appear in print until the late 1600s, but at that time it bore two meanings: “romping” and the “assumption of superiority, ‘airs’, huffiness.” The American Heritage dictionary defines “hoity-toity” as “puffed up, pompous”—so, do you suppose that somewhere in the Unacknowledged etymology of “hoity-toity” (only mentioned are words meaning “high”) is this stuffed-shirt “mahoitre”? (or at least might it share some of mahoitre's own etymology?)

Here's to Etymology! Here's to TAILORING YOUR VOCABULARY?

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

 
-----Original Message-----
From: Diana Habra <dch@inreach.com>
Sent: Mar 3, 2005 1:44 PM
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] A Term I need explained


> According to the OED:
>
> A pad placed in the upper part of the sleeve of a garment for the purpose
> of
> increasing the apparent breadth of the shoulders.
>
>   1834 J. R. PLANCHÉ Hist. Brit. Costume 201 The shoulders were padded out
> with large waddings called mahoitres. 1846 F. W. FAIRHOLT Costume in Eng.
> Gloss., Mahoitres,..the wadded and up-raised shoulders in fashion during
> the
> fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. 1935 Times Lit. Suppl. 21 Dec. 873/1
> The
> mahoitres of the fifteenth-century dandy.
>
> Joanna

So would that be the correct term for what they do to modern men's suits? 
You know how the shoulders are padded internally?

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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Dear Moderators and List-owner,
has something peculiar been happening to the List?
It's now Saturday, and -here on the other side of the Atlantic, - I'm getting messages suddenly showing-up in my inbox today dating from Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday of last week?
 
God's Benison be upon you, this Feast of St. Egdunus




Yours in service, 
Julian Wilson,
[aka. Messire Matthew Baker/Matthieu Besquer, Governor & Castellan of Jersey, 1486-1497: - "Si vis pacem, para bellum"]
late-medieval Re-enactor; & Historian and Master Artisan to  
"The Companie of the Duke's Leopards",
[the only medieval living-history Group
in "olde" Jersey]
Send instant messages to your online friends http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com 
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Subject: [h-cost] Re:  Book review?
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Someone on another list asked about this book:
*http://tinyurl.com/55suf
I had just come across it the other day during a Worldcat search.  I 
figured one of you would have seen it and might have an opinion.

Sg
*
Kathalyn Nimet wrote:

>
>Has anyone ever heard of this book?
>
>Is it a good/bad reference? I have a friend who want to buy it and I 
>cannot give her any personal feedback.
>
>http://search.barnesandnoble.com/booksearch/isbnInquiry.asp?
>userid=v12Y8ZXAAf&sourceid=00084629308406666429&isbn=0486429857&itm=23
>
>(may have to cut and paste) OR
>
>Medieval Costume and How to Recreate It 
>Dorothy Hartley, Francis Michael Kelly (Translator)
>ISBN: 0486429857 
>Format: Paperback, 160pp 
>Pub. Date: December 2003 
>Publisher: Dover Publications, Incorporated 
>
>Mit Dank-
>Kathalyn
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
><*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
>    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GermanRenCostume/
>
><*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>    GermanRenCostume-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
><*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
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> 
>
>
>
>
>  
>
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: stripey duppioni source
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Hi,

now for the fourth time (my e-mail doesn't like me to send anything at the 
moment...)

A source for stripey duppioni silk could be hyena fabrics 
(www.hyenaproductions.com). They might not have the exact same fabric in 
stock, but they could most likely get it for you. They have been able to get 
specialty silks in the past provided you get at least 10 y.

Hope this helps,

Caithlinn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] have a look at this costume
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Dawn
This garment is based by the fairy tale of Hans Christian Andersen who 
selebrates 200 years birthday this year.
His fairytale the emperors new clothes.
Two fake tailors swear to make the emperor the most beautifull garment, and 
demands the best of threads and lots of golds to make it. They say it has a 
but, namely that those who claims they cant see it, proves to be very bad in 
their trade, so noone dares to say they cant see it, and voila, the emperor 
goes in a parade in the nude because he really wears nothing, but noone 
dares to say, that they dont see it.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, March 04, 2005 12:41 AM
Subject: [h-cost] have a look at this costume


> Ok, I admit I've spent too much time browsing ebay this week....
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=4156&item=8174950485&rd=1
>
> Is that a historical design or what?
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:  Book review?
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On Thu, 3 Mar 2005, Wicked Frau wrote:

> Someone on another list asked about this book:
> *http://tinyurl.com/55suf

Haven't seen this one myself, but it looks like another in the usual crop
of Dover reprints of early-century popular costume manuals. Hartley wrote
in the 20s and 30s, IIRC, so that would put her in there with Norris and
Houston. I wonder if this is her "Medieval Costume and Life" (1931) under
a new title?

A link from there led me to this, which is new to me. Anyone have any
comments about it?

Clothes of the Medieval World
by Vincent Douglas
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0872266699/

--robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] dylon dye
Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2005 11:47:47 -0500
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Doesn't Dahma carry this?


Kathleen
--- Original Message ----- 
From: "Elizabeth Young" <lizyoung@fenris.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, March 04, 2005 10:48 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] dylon dye


> Susan Farmer wrote:
> >>I think there are machine instructions too.  Can you get Dylon hot-water
> >>dye in the US?  I can't anymore.
> >
> >
> > so where does one get this wondrous stuff?  I have a need to RE-dye a
faded
> > black doublet/jerkin .....
>
> I got my original boxes from Teddy as part of the Great Dye Experiment*
> several years ago. I have since ordered Dylon Machine Dye from the UK
> http://www.sewandso.co.uk/ran840-0.html
>
> I have a large Kenmore front-loader, theoretically modeled on German
> front loaders. This Dylon Dye (not available in the US) and my machine
> do a great job dying large jobs. No residue, even color, seems to be
> mostly color fast (cotton and linen dyed so far).
>
> liz young
>
> *Several of us on the list in the US received boxes of Dylon Machine Dye
> from Teddy (I think Teddy sent them all) and tried the dye in our
> American machines. I know it worked in front-loaders and worked some of
> the time in top-loaders. "Dylon Machine Dye" in the archives ought to
> get you the thread.
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] ancient Greek costume books
Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2005 13:23:41 -0500
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I have found these to be useful, (if only as a starting place for general
costuming). I usually will go to statuary or pottery paintings for a more
refined interpretation as needed. Notes and biblio info has been reliable.
Not much else out there that I have found helpful when a show needs to
progress.  I especially like the variety of hair treatments that have been
drawn from extant pictorial examples available.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, March 04, 2005 12:30 PM
Subject: [h-cost] ancient Greek costume books


> Can anyone comment on these books and what is inside them? Are they good
> source material? I am considering purchasing them as general additions
> to my book collection, but I know nothing about them. I'm guessing that
> they are reprints of older titles.
>
>
> * Ancient Greek, Roman and Byzantine Costume by Mary G. Houston.
> Softcover -Dover Publications 2003.
>
> * Costume in Greek Classic Drama by Iris Brooke. Dover- 2003.
>
>
> Would love to hear from someone who has copies.
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] have a look at this costume
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...except, if I recall correctly, a little boy?
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-----Original Message-----
From: Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
Sent: Mar 4, 2005 9:44 AM
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] have a look at this costume

Dawn
This garment is based by the fairy tale of Hans Christian Andersen who 
selebrates 200 years birthday this year.
His fairytale the emperors new clothes.
Two fake tailors swear to make the emperor the most beautifull garment, and 
demands the best of threads and lots of golds to make it. They say it has a 
but, namely that those who claims they cant see it, proves to be very bad in 
their trade, so noone dares to say they cant see it, and voila, the emperor 
goes in a parade in the nude because he really wears nothing, but noone 
dares to say, that they dont see it.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, March 04, 2005 12:41 AM
Subject: [h-cost] have a look at this costume


> Ok, I admit I've spent too much time browsing ebay this week....
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=4156&item=8174950485&rd=1
>
> Is that a historical design or what?
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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Date: Fri, 04 Mar 2005 20:25:49 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Victorian or Regency Boudoir Clothing
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>I am also looking for men's dressing gowns/smoking jackets.  But think 
>1800's rather than 1900's.  You know something that Byronic Set would have 
>worn while smoking opium or sitting in their own study in casual comfort.

Folkwear has a usable pattern for one of these.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Could someone please forward to me off-list H-costume digests #'s 141, 142, 
and 145?  They seem to have disappeared into the ether.

TIA,

Sandy

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly -----------
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Mahoitered Sleeves
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Here is a link to some mockups on various types of Mahoitered sleeves.  
Sorry the images aren't so hot.  Most of them I accidentally saved at a 
very worthless low resolution.  
http://saragrace.net/images/Misc/mahoiteredsleeves.htm


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From: Moon Singer <salunra@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sideless Surcoat
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Hi all,

Thanks for your responses to this question.

Robin, I am fairly novice with sewing, but am eager to try a draping
technique. The problem is, I am doing this costuming for myself. Are
these techniques workable on a dress form? I have no one to do the
fitting on me. :/.

Thanks.
Moon


On Sat, 5 Mar 2005 10:30:12 -0600 (CST), Robin Netherton
<robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:
> 
> On Sat, 5 Mar 2005, Dawn wrote:
> 
> > Theresathreadgi@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > > There is a web page for the cotehardie, just spent 10 minutes hunting
> > > through myfavorites and cant find it right nowbut if I am not
> > > mistaken one of the h-cost persons sent it to me.Was great with bth
> > > design for paper pattern or a drape and pin explaination.
> >
> > The Cotehardie and Houpelande page is here now:
> > http://www.theweebsite.com/cotelande/index.html
> 
> The above page might answer the needs of the original poster, depending on
> what she's looking for, but it's important to note that it relies mostly
> on outdated popular costume books and is not very historically accurate. I
> also don't see construction directions on that page, so it probably is not
> what Theresa was remembering.
> 
> For instructions on drape-and-pin, most people point to Tasha McGann's
> page:
> 
> http://www.cottesimple.com/index.html
> 
> Tasha developed her method in part based on my work. You'll find my
> written comments at:
> 
> http://www.netherton.net/robin
> 
> I don't have directions there and never will, as I don't think this method
> can be taught on paper. However, I do have a handout I use for workshops,
> and a collection of posts that will provide useful background and tips for
> someone wanting to take a non-patterned approach. Experienced costumers
> who have an understanding of the desired look and basic methods have been
> able to use those to replicate my method.
> 
> The original poster, I think, asked for patterns. I don't use them and so
> can't recommend any. Perhaps someone else can. There are a number of
> patterns out there for both fitted underdresses and sideless surcotes that
> will produce an acceptable "look" for general SCA wear and for other
> costuming purposes, though I would consider all of them to be modern in
> approach. I would not recommend using patterns for historical costume
> competition or authentic re-enactment, but I don't gather that's what the
> original poster was aiming for.
> 
> --Robin
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
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I found about 6 vintage(70s) patterns in an old swewing machine that i acquired (it was on the side of the road/waiting for garbage truck-machine is from the 40s in a great/neato cabanet) -this was back in summer before i had been basicly incompacitaded by varius problems.  I had offered these patterns to whoever wanted them, and had a taker, but have since lost the email.  The patterns do smell a little and make me snnize, so-if you are allergic to mold, don't say you want them!  also, i have not looked in the envolopes, so i have no idea abouot the state of them.  

If whoever said they wanted them says "ME", they get first dibs!

Thanks, Jordana


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sideless Surcoat
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On Sat, 5 Mar 2005, Moon Singer wrote:

> Robin, I am fairly novice with sewing, but am eager to try a draping
> technique. The problem is, I am doing this costuming for myself. Are
> these techniques workable on a dress form? I have no one to do the
> fitting on me. :/.

I'm afraid not, at least not my method. The whole point is to manipulate
the figure into a different shape, which requires lifting and molding and
adjusting various parts. The body and the dress work together to achieve
the shape; the degree of tension on the dress at various points depends on
the particular bulges and pressures of the individual's body. 

Dress forms assume a certain finished shape, with the understanding that
you will form your body into that shape with your bra or other foundation,
and then lay the dress over that. If your body changes, the shape of the
dress form is no longer valid. And dress forms can't be manipulated the
way human breasts, muscles, and fat deposits can.

Sorry...

--Robin

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They've had a great number of paintigs from outside Germany for some time.
Both artists and from other collections.

But they are expanding all the time. I check the German artist pages every
couple of months and nearly always find something new. The Lucas Cranach (d.
A) pages especially have grown since I first had a look at the pages.

I also think artcyclopedia is actually getting around to linking to
bildindex for more artists.

I just wish I knew how they did it as I have only failed in trying to link
to pages;) (I suspect there is some kind of cookie time out happening.)

michaela
http://glittersweet.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Wicked Frau" <wickedfrau@earthlink.net>
To: "TheRenaissanceTailor" <TheRenaissanceTailor@yahoogroups.com>;
"GermanRenCostume" <GermanRenCostume@yahoogroups.com>;
<h-costume@indra.com>; <thefrazzledfrau@yahoogroups.com>;
"TheRenaissanceTailor" <TheRenaissanceTailor@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 06, 2005 5:45 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Bildindex expanding?


> Gosh guys, have I stumbled across something new here?  It looks like
> Bildindex is starting to include artwork from all over?  I have been
> typing in various artist names in artcyclopedia.com and almost without
> fail Bildindex shows up (down at the bottom ususually), then when I
> click on it, it takes me to Bildindex and there are a collection of the
> artists paintings from all over???  The Prado, Uffzi etc.  Wahoooooo!
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>
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>
>



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Subject: Re: RE: [h-cost] Look at butterick's new costume
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"otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:

>Basically, most of Butterick's "Making History", are created with the 
>average sewer in mind or a beginner LHer needing a pattern for first garb. 
>It is researched but they will cut corners to accommodate. The lack of a 
>corset is a good example.

This pattern is still a fair sight better than the circa-1978 version I 
have in my pattern archives. THAT pattern was an omnibus costume pattern 
that used the same basic bodice and skirt pieces for an 18th Century dress, 
a "Pilgrim" (as in "Mayflower" and "Thanksgiving") dress, and a "gypsy" 
dress-and-underbodice.

>>But somehow, McCall's costumes always feel that way to me, and I almost 
>>never can put my finger on what's bothering me.

Probably the cut-corners. I find it's what made their "Tudor Rose" pattern 
look a bit "off" and what made their 1490's-era Venetian pattern a bit 
"off". The Venetian, I managed to refit to my satisfaction (and then I lost 
a whole lot of weight so I never got to wear it).



Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net

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Subject: [h-cost] RE: 18th century 'bum roll'
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Elizabeth,

You could certainly ignore this 'bumroll' thing altogether.  Many 18th
century gowns were worn with multiple petticotes for fullness, but no
bumrolls at all.  I honestly couldn't tell you if the 'bumroll' is a
modern costumer's idea or if they really wore them in the 18th century.
I'm going to have to track down that "cork" reference now and see where
it comes from!  Panniers (side hoops) and round hoops, definitely.  But
I can't think of a period picture of a bumroll, and we have a lot of
period pictures of everything else a woman wore under her gown.

Personally, I have never worn a bumroll with my polonaise gowns and I
make the one to which you refer in Patterns of Fashion quite often and
it fits perfectly well.  Once a volunteer at the 1753 house asked me if
I would teach her how to make one of my bumrolls and I had to disappoint
her that I wasn't wearing one!  (Does that count as the costumer's
equivalent of asking a non-pregnant woman when she's due? <wink>)

If you want to see a picture of how mine looks from the back, check out
the blue dress on this page (page down a bit):
http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/18thc/gallery.html
The burgundy dress on my friend Britt is also the same style and she
wore it without a bumroll too.

Skip the bumroll.  I'm sure it will look wonderful!

Kass
Reconstructing History Patterns
http://reconstructinghistory.com
Join Our Pattern Discussion List:
http://reconstructinghistory.com/mailman/listinfo/patterns_reconstructin
ghistory.com

-----Original Message-----
Hi everyone,
I'm reproducing the "polonaise gown with the back cut en fourreau" on
page 36-37 of Patterns of Fashion 1. I've started my corset and expect
to be finished within the next week or so but according to the notes the
dress is supposed to be fitted over a 'false rump' so does anybody know
of a good
(online) pattern for this? I can't afford to import patterns so it's got
to be 'big 3' or easy to draft on my own. I assume it isn't the same
crescent shape used by Elizabethan costumers as it essentially only
supposed to widen the hips at the sides but not add to the back.
Although the originals are apparently stuffed with cork I assume padding
with something softer would work as well? Or could I get away with not
wearing a bum roll, given that I have natural padding there instead :)
thanks Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole@iimetro.com.au

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar 12 14:05:41 2005
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Subject: [h-cost] need shoe book recommendations
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hello,

I am looking for recommendations of books about shoemaking.  I know 
there are some shoe-gurus on the list and would love some advice.  My 
bro-in-law is apprenticing with a shoe maker and I want this for a 
Christmas present.  I don't have a particular period, but I lean 
towards medieval. Thanks!

Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com
*** http://www.alfalfapress.com

I think, therefore I'm dangerous.

I'll be Post-Feminist in a Post-Patriarchy

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Had to share
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At 15:58 06/03/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>  I stumbled across this link this evening through artcyclopedia and just 
> had to share it.  It has a number of paintings I have never seen 
> before.  Until I pulled up the self portrait, I did not realize the 
> artist is a woman!  Gotta love these kid scenes. <http://tinyurl.com/4pvum>
>After having looked at several more Italian Artists, I am beginning to 
>think that Bildindex is either being sloppy or is confused.  I've seen 
>several of the same paintings under several different artists.
>
>http://www.bildindex.de/rx/apsisa.dll/registerinhalt?sid=&cnt=&rid=2&aid=*&query=+xdbpics%3Aalle%20+r1a_name%3A'A*'%20%20+r1a_name%3A%22
>anguissola,%20sofonisba%22&no=1&count=50&sort=no&rid=2
>
>Sorry about the horribly long url, but H-cost no longer takes TinyUrl!
>Darn!


Love the dress with the check pattern - most unusual.

Suzi


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Sheryl Nance-Durst <sherylnd@kc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century small print fabric
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Here's an interesting fabric:
http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/ac-945.html
The pattern may be just a bit big (The floral stripe is 3 inches), but
for a 16" doll, it might be do-able.

Sheryl N-D

At 11:03 AM 3/1/05 -0600, you wrote:
>
>
>  Here is a question that's a bit off-topic. I have 2 16" vinyl dolls
>designed by Helen Kish, that I would love to redress in various historic
>costumes. I have a pretty accurate pattern of two 18th century gowns
>designed for Sasha dolls that I will alter to fit these dolls and use my
>copy of Janet Arnold's "Patterns of Fashion" to make more accurate. However
>I'm looking for modern reproductions in a small scale of 18th century
>fabrics and I'm not enough of an artist to make my own. I live in Omaha, NE
>and even the speciality quilt shop here doesn't carry such stuff. I've shown
>the staff pics of "real 18th c fabrics" I want a reproduction of and they
>drool over them too, but no luck. I'd love to find something along the lines
>of the printed fabric used for the robe de la francaise in Arnold in cherry
>shades with the "buttoned" stomacher. Does anyone know of anyone out there
>that carries such reproduction fabric in cotton or silk? Fabric with a small
>interwoven pattern, like a floral stripe or brocade in an 18th c pattern
>would also be great.
>
>Many thanks
>
>Cindy Abel
>brujne@creighton.edu



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-----Original Message-----
From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [mailto:drewscph@post12.tele.dk] 
Sent: 05 March 2005 15:02
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: BArry Lyndon

<snip>
> but the only thing she replyed was did you see the 
wings i made for the angel for (a swedish film i dont think you know). She 
was so proud of those angel wings, and i thoaght well well......... 


Ok, now I'm curious: What movie was it? Can't quite recall any swedish
movies with angels.

/Lena



=================================================
We're moving...
>From 21st February 2005 
our new contact details will be:
Margaret Gowen & Co. Ltd.
Archaeological Consultants & Project Managers
27 Merrion Square 
Dublin 2 
Tel: 01 7997200   Fax 01 7997201
e-mail: archaeology@mglarc.com
website: http://www.mglarc.com
=================================================

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> At 03:58 PM 3/6/2005 -0700, you wrote:
> >  I stumbled across this link this evening through artcyclopedia and just
> > had to share it.  It has a number of paintings I have never seen
> > before.  Until I pulled up the self portrait, I did not realize the
> > artist is a woman!  Gotta love these kid scenes.

<http://tinyurl.com/4pvum>
>
> Greetings,
>
> The tinyurl worked for me.  I love Sofonisba Anguissola's work and am
> surprised to see a couple of paintings I have never seen before (in
> particular the gold plaid gown ones).    Are those by any chance the ones
> that are showing up under other artist's names?
>

I don't know.  I'd never seen tham at all until I saw them here some time ago.
I"ve never seen them in any of the books about her -- I'd never seen them 
anywhere!  I ran across a web site some time ago (that of course I can't find 
now) that was of paintings being restored -- that's what it looks to be with
that gold plaid image -- there are 3 copies -- one is "cleaned and pressed" t
the other is somewhat "tattered."

Sofonisba was the first great fremale painter of the renaissance -- she became
court painter in spain.  and you've got to love the paintings that she did
of her younger siblings!

Jerusha

-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Botany Department, University of Tennessee
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Hi,
I dont know about how you do it, but making something for yourself and using 
a commersial pattern is very difficult. You cant se how it sits on your back 
and vise versa.
I had thoaght a lot about what i should do with the wedding suit of Gustav 
III wich i baught at Stockholm, it was a little of a nightmare for me to 
pussle that out.
Then i have a tailorshop nearby, it looks very expensive, they also sells 
uniforms and they sewed the crownprince's uniform he wore at the wedding.
But i emailed them about my problem, the pattern is a little two big for me.
Would you know, they said i should just come by and they would only charge 
me 150 kr. to adjust the pattern to my meassures......................
So i am going tomorrow!

150 kr. is about 25 dollars.........

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Date: Tue, 08 Mar 2005 08:43:49 +1300
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1560's  Venitian chemise
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Bella wrote:

>>Sleeves - regular length or longer to pull thru sleeve
>>slashes?
>>    
>>
>
>You'll find different opinions, but mine is that yes, sometimes they
>were longer to pull through sleeve slashes and fill poufs.
>  
>

I concur.  If you want to pull puffs of the camicia sleeves through 
slashes you _need_ extra length.  I don't see how any other opinions are 
really possible.


-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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From: Bella <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: Sofonisba Anguissola (was Re: [h-cost] Had to share)
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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For anyone interested in Sofonisba, I can't recommend highly enough the
book "Sofonisba Anguissola" by Ilya Sandra Perlingieri, put out by
Rizzoli publications. You may wish to track it down at your local
library. It's not only very informative regarding her life, but it's
also full of great portraits. Unfortunately the portrait of her mother
in the plaid dress is not one of them. This book is one of my most
treasured possessions. 

In the meantime here's another site you might wish to look at.
Unfortunately it too is in Italian.

<http://www-utenti.dsc.unibo.it/~masini/ig/>


Bella

 --- Susan Farmer <sfarmer@utk.edu> wrote: 
> I take it back!  I just ran across it in a google image search for
> Sofonisba
> at http://www.rccr.cremona.it/anguissola/sofonisba.htm
> 
> Unfortunately I don't read Italian.  I'm also seeing some other
> things (via
> google) that I'm not sure if I've seen before either.
> 
> Jerusha


Find local movie times and trailers on Yahoo! Movies.
http://au.movies.yahoo.com

Find local movie times and trailers on Yahoo! Movies.
http://au.movies.yahoo.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] help - lower costing postage?
Date: Tue, 8 Mar 2005 12:19:58 +1100
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That's the only way I've seen. Must be a good sized book for that postage!

I recently sent some fabric by sea mail from Canada - it took over 10 weeks 
for it to get here! Lucky it was still 2 months before I needed it - the 
joys of planning ahead!

Glenda.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Aylwen & John" <garden@earthlydelights.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2005 12:20 PM
Subject: [h-cost] help - lower costing postage?


> Hi, I'm urgently trying to find a cheaper way to get a costuming book from 
> US to Australia - so far the quote is $12 US for sea mail and $25 US for 
> airmail. Is there a cheaper option? I don't want to go seamail or it'll be 
> months before I see the book.
> Thanks, Aylwen
>
> _______________________________________________
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> 

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Date: Tue, 08 Mar 2005 14:49:39 +1300
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] help - lower costing postage?
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Aylwen & John wrote:

> Hi, I'm urgently trying to find a cheaper way to get a costuming book 
> from US to Australia - so far the quote is $12 US for sea mail and $25 
> US for airmail. Is there a cheaper option? I don't want to go seamail 
> or it'll be months before I see the book.
>
You should be able to have it sent Global Priority. 

I've had things like (smallish) board games sent by this method.

http://ircalc.usps.gov/intl_speed.asp?CID=10013&MailType=envelope&Pounds=3&Ounces=%200

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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One of them is costumetrader, which should be here:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/costumetrader



Dawn


Wicked Frau wrote:
> Errr which group is this on Yahoo specifically?
> 
> Danielle Nunn-Weinberg wrote:
> 
>> Greetings all...
>>
>> Excuse this one announcement...I will be listing a bunch of fabric for 
>> sale on the Swap & Sell yahoo groups.  
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Subject: [h-cost] 1066 Saxon peasant
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My daughter is to play a Saxon peasant in a school production of the Norman  
invasion for her 5th grade social studies class.  This is not my period and  I 
have not been able to find any online pix or references for what would be  
appropriate for her to wear as a Saxon peasantwoman (plenty of knights &  
nobles, tho).  Obviously we don't need to go over the top here, but where  can I 
find some references with pix so I know remotely how to dress her?   The teacher 
says to just "cut holes for arms & head in a sheet & sew up  the sides & put a 
dark vest on over it," but that chills my historic  sensibilities to the 
bone.  Are there any articles in her 18c wardrobe that  could be adapted?  She has 
her plain white linen shift & brown  wool underpetticoat, a grey-blue 
lightweight wool outer petticoat  (double-ties wrap around waist), a red & white 
resist print shortgown  (probably won't work!), a choice of either her blue & 
white  striped apron, or a plain white apron.  I have time to make other  articles 
and a proper cap if I could find what one looks like --or would it  be a 
headcloth of some sort?  
 
Floundering,
Best regards,
Susannah
 
Susannah Eanes, Mantua Maker and Fine Tailoring
_www.virginvintage.com_ (http://www.virginvintage.com) 
 
"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."  --William  Morris
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Really?  I'm looking for someone who'd be interested in buying a "Floor Loom Kit".

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> We are looking for another person who is skilled in weaving authentic 
> fabrics of wool and blends of wool, linen and cotton (no synthetics). If this 
> person is familiar with handspinning and/or vegetable dyeing so much the 
> better. 
> We would prefer someone who is familiar with twills and plain weaves that 
> are suitable for 18c & 19c clothing. Please feel free to forward this email to 
> anyone you feel may be interested. Thank you. 
> 
> Best regards, 
> Susannah B. Smith 
> 
> Susannah Eanes, Mantua Maker and Fine Tailoring 
> _www.virginvintage.com_ (http://www.virginvintage.com) 
> 
> "We are only the trustees for those who come after us." --William Morris 
> _______________________________________________ 
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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Date: Tue, 08 Mar 2005 22:57:18 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mn.rr.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] quiet list!
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The list is amazingly quiet...where is everyone?!  I was hoping to be 
useful and come up with a juicy topic for discussion but my mind is a 
blank.  The only things I can think of have been hashed in one form or 
another before...anyone want to talk about what would be their favourite 
movie costume to reproduce?

Or how about would be the one costume type/time period that you have never 
done but really want to do?  I know I've always dreamed of a robe a la 
francaise with huge panniers, intricately trimmed, and just completely over 
the top, ever since I got the fairytale book when I was a child with 
Cinderella decked out like that.

That's my gambit. : )

Cheers,
Danielle

Instructor on http://www.costumeclassroom.com
Check out my 16th Century English Clothing in Textual Sources class
Check out my Regency Fashion Plates in textual sources class 

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2005 12:34:44 +0100
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Subject: [h-cost] taffeta stays and embroidery
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Hi,
I thoaght you would like to se the progress i make with the red taffeta
stays. I have uploaded pictures so that the young lady i make them for can
follow my work. As you know i spended the last 2 days making the bone
channels, and only got to make one backpiece and one front piece. Today i
have to rest a little, as i have a full time work to catch up tomorrow. When
i rest i love to embroider, and i also have a waistcoat going on, i thoaght
you would like to see.
The stays are here:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/chenillestumpwork.htm
And the waistcoat embroidery here at the bottom :
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/setasilkpaint.htm
Then there also is a boring job to do for me today: house cleaning
aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!!!!!

Bjarne







Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric organization
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I know this is probably waaay late, but here it is anyway....
( I'm not behind with reading my mail, no.....only a month or so!!! )

--- Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com> wrote:
<i know that someone on the list wrote an excellent paper with
<suggestions  a few years ago. does anyone remember what website
<he put that onto?
<LynnD

I think this may the article you have in mind.

http://www.bitwizards.com/norborough/timetosew.html

It used to be on Stephen Bergdahl's webpage, but that seems to
have disappeared, which is a real pity.

Regards,

Joannah.

On  Fri,  11  Feb  2005 14:26:01 -0600, Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
wrote:
>
>  Which do you think would work better, sorting the fabrics by
intended
>  use (all the light cotton skirt fabric together) or by size,
or even by
> color/ print?
>
> Dawn
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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References: <87A506E53AFF4C4CB2C565044BA209E7AF4AED@oldntserver.stoneage.mglarc.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: BArry Lyndon
Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2005 21:00:18 +0100
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Hi Lena,
The danish title was Den Enfoldige Morder, about a simpleton who murders a 
rich horrible man.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lena Strid" <lstrid@mglarc.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, March 07, 2005 9:45 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: BArry Lyndon


>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [mailto:drewscph@post12.tele.dk]
> Sent: 05 March 2005 15:02
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: BArry Lyndon
>
> <snip>
>> but the only thing she replyed was did you see the
> wings i made for the angel for (a swedish film i dont think you know). She
> was so proud of those angel wings, and i thoaght well well.........
>
>
> Ok, now I'm curious: What movie was it? Can't quite recall any swedish
> movies with angels.
>
> /Lena
>
>
>
> =================================================
> We're moving...
>>From 21st February 2005
> our new contact details will be:
> Margaret Gowen & Co. Ltd.
> Archaeological Consultants & Project Managers
> 27 Merrion Square
> Dublin 2
> Tel: 01 7997200   Fax 01 7997201
> e-mail: archaeology@mglarc.com
> website: http://www.mglarc.com
> =================================================
>
> CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE
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> NOTE
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Laughs,
This email i sended several days ago. End of the story was that it was a 
total misunderstanding. They thoaght i only wanted to be meassured, and this 
would cost 25 dollars.
Laaughs
Well they gave me an address for a very skilled tailor, but the price for 
this task would be much  more than i want to pay, so i actually made my 
fitting by myself.

Bjarne
That blue duchesse satin suit, must be made now!!!!


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, March 07, 2005 8:17 PM
Subject: [h-cost] to fit a pattern


> Hi,
> I dont know about how you do it, but making something for yourself and 
> using a commersial pattern is very difficult. You cant se how it sits on 
> your back and vise versa.
> I had thoaght a lot about what i should do with the wedding suit of Gustav 
> III wich i baught at Stockholm, it was a little of a nightmare for me to 
> pussle that out.
> Then i have a tailorshop nearby, it looks very expensive, they also sells 
> uniforms and they sewed the crownprince's uniform he wore at the wedding.
> But i emailed them about my problem, the pattern is a little two big for 
> me.
> Would you know, they said i should just come by and they would only charge 
> me 150 kr. to adjust the pattern to my meassures......................
> So i am going tomorrow!
>
> 150 kr. is about 25 dollars.........
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Joannah Hansen wrote:

> 
> I think this may the article you have in mind.
> 
> http://www.bitwizards.com/norborough/timetosew.html
> 

That's a great article. I'm fortunate (I think) enough to not have to 
keep my costume fabric stash in tubs in a storage unit. (That's for the 
quilt fabrics) I've got two 6 foot bookshelves for all the flat folds, 
which is the majority of it.

I ended up sorting it by color. It worked for me, I now have a much 
better idea of what I already have on hand, and it looks very pretty 
from the hallway. I have started pinning yardage tags onto each piece 
when I bring it home, so I know at a glance if I have 2.5, or 3, or 4 or 
more yards without having to unfold it and measure each time.

Best of all, since re-arranging the fabric I have cleared an entire 
shelf for my new costume books, which means I can buy more without 
feeling guilty about having "too much stuff already!"




Dawn



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I love the text.
It sertanly helped me a lot with organising my sewing stuf!


Joannah Hansen wrote:

>I know this is probably waaay late, but here it is anyway....
>( I'm not behind with reading my mail, no.....only a month or so!!! )
>
>--- Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com> wrote:
><i know that someone on the list wrote an excellent paper with
><suggestions  a few years ago. does anyone remember what website
><he put that onto?
><LynnD
>
>I think this may the article you have in mind.
>
>http://www.bitwizards.com/norborough/timetosew.html
>
>It used to be on Stephen Bergdahl's webpage, but that seems to
>have disappeared, which is a real pity.
>
>Regards,
>
>Joannah.
>
>On  Fri,  11  Feb  2005 14:26:01 -0600, Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
>wrote:
>  
>
>> Which do you think would work better, sorting the fabrics by
>>    
>>
>intended
>  
>
>> use (all the light cotton skirt fabric together) or by size,
>>    
>>
>or even by
>  
>
>>color/ print?
>>
>>Dawn
>>
>>_______________________________________________
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>>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>>    
>>
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>
>_____________________________________________________________
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>  
>


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From: "Margo Glenn-Lewis" <nomadmt@pacbell.net>
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I've got a bunch of peacock feathers I've been thinking of sewing with - but
haven't been sure of the best method.  How did you do it?

Margo Glenn-Lewis
Longtime lurker

"Don't Forget Your Bucket"
Ice Machine in the Desert/Brave Combo

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2005 10:53 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric organization

At 13:40 09/03/2005 -0500, you wrote:

>Not to dismiss the fun of those little re-discoveries...  but it is well 
>worth it...
>
>>with drawers and boxes full of fabrics from 20 years and more back, I 
>>don't have the time to do all of that!
>
>And besides... that's what Graduate Students are for.  <evil grin>  AND 
>Tongue Firmly in Cheek.
>
>Mari / Bridgette


Nice idea, but there is barely room for me and the cat! And the last 
student I had, I spent two days sewing on the peacock feathers she had 
taken four days to sew on. (All hers came off immediately! and there were 
800 to sew on - urgh!))  You can see why I am *off* students at the moment.

Suzi


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To all the good gentles on this list, 

I am Lady Satine De La Courcel, and in seek of guidance regarding Tudor  style clothing.. from the ground up. and I also would love to make  the Pelican and Phoenix gowns of Queen Elizabeth I. From the ground up. I do have questions about these two gowns in particular. Other than I will have some insane beading to so...its what has attracted me to these dresses to begin with... anyone wanting to take on a challenge via e-mail for wither of these two subjects? Tudor or Elizabethan Gowns??? please feel free to e-mail me here or off list.  

Thank you. 

Lady Satine De La Courcel



		
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] something wrong with the list?
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2005 04:12:40 -0500
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I am sorry. Danielle generally writes me privately around this time of 
night.

Danielle please try to send it to me off-list and I will try to post it to 
the list for you.

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com 


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>>Date: Tue, 08 Mar 2005 22:57:18 -0600
>>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>>From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mn.rr.com>
>>Subject: quiet list!
>>
>>The list is amazingly quiet...where is everyone?!  I was hoping to be 
>>useful and come up with a juicy topic for discussion but my mind is a 
>>blank.  The only things I can think of have been hashed in one form or 
>>another before...anyone want to talk about what would be their favourite 
>>movie costume to reproduce?
>>
>>Or how about would be the one costume type/time period that you have never 
>>done but really want to do?  I know I've always dreamed of a robe a la 
>>francaise with huge panniers, intricately trimmed, and just completely 
>>over the top, ever since I got the fairytale book when I was a child with 
>>Cinderella decked out like that.
>>
>>That's my gambit. : )
>>
>>Cheers,
>>Danielle
>>
>>Instructor on http://www.costumeclassroom.com
>>Check out my 16th Century English Clothing in Textual Sources class
>>Check out my Regency Fashion Plates in textual sources class
>
> 


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Subject: [h-cost] OT: Regions VS Areas
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OFF TOPIC: Geography Question: I am working on a project and can't figure out what to call the larger areas of France in the 19th Century.   My project has areas like Brittany and Normandy.  Within these areas are listed regions.  Is there another name for "area," like province?

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com 
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com 
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
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>Besides, I would miss those wonderful moments that go "I didn't know I had 
>that!!" 

Boy, can I ever relate to that ;))

>But I also found a length of green wool for a skirt, which I vaguely 
>remember buying when I was a college (!), a length of green silk, and ditto

>blue striped silk which I shall use *eventually*!! I would miss all of that

>if I was organised!!

>Suzi

Honey, I have fabric that my GRANDMOTHER bought, never used, gave to mother,
ditto and I have had it for over 30 years!!!  Any ideas on what to do with
some lovely apple green satin that is over 80 years old????

Anne 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] something wrong with the list?
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At 07:11 10/03/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>I'm fine, here (Montana, local ISP).  I've seen your messages.  Perhaps 
>there's a delay with your ISP?
>--sue
>
>Danielle Nunn-Weinberg wrote:
>>Greetings,
>>Is there something wrong with the list?  My last post didn't show up on 
>>the list and I'm clearly not getting all the emails since I'm getting 
>>parts of discussion threads!  Is anyone else having this problem?


I haven't had much mail for two or three days, although something I sent 
recently did get back to me. It doesn't seem normal that I only get two or 
three messages in a day - the list is usually much chattier than that!

Suzi in London


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--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares
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Subject: [h-cost] OT: Regions VS Areas
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Penny,
I suppose you've been told 6 times by now, how about using the French
words "provence", "région" or "département"?  The first is political,
administrative or Catholic organization), the second used primarily
for gross geography or specifically for viniculture, the 3rd is
governmental or scholastic.  The "provence" (province) designations go
back as far as the early Ancien Régime. People from Aquitaine have
long self-identified with their province long before France was a
significant power.
For fun & useless trivia, "La Belle Provence" is Quebec.
If a French or French Canadian person tells you otherwise, do believe
him/her. I'm sure they know more than I in this matter.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

Message: 9
Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2005 04:54:17 -0500
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
Subject: [h-cost] OT: Regions VS Areas
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <007d01c52557$1fe3ea60$0200a8c0@yourw04gtxld67>
Content-Type: text/plain;       charset="iso-8859-1"

OFF TOPIC: Geography Question: I am working on a project and can't
figure out what to call the larger areas of France in the 19th
Century.   My project has areas like Brittany and Normandy.  Within
these areas are listed regions.  Is there another name for "area,"
like province?

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] hoop storage?
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In a message dated 3/10/2005 6:11:26 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
sunshine_buchler@agilent.com writes:

What do  people do to store their hoops (the Elizabethan/Victorian bell
version, in  specific)?


This became a real problem on the Wardrobe trailer of a film that took  place 
in the 1860s ... which had limited space. We gathered all the hoops  and the 
waistband up in one hand, tied it with a piece of twine to  stay and hung it 
over the neck of a hanger. Then hung the hanger flat  to the wall on a peg 
behind the racks for the other  garments.
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Back when I still had a set, I used to store them, flattened into a 
single ring (if that makes any sense), hanging from a big nail in my closet.
I did not have permanently stiff hoops, though--I'd made mine with 3/8" 
polytubing for "bones," so that I could wrassle them into submission and 
get them into a suitcase when I went to an SCA event.  If/when I ever 
make another set, I'll try rag-stuffed channels, and probably hemp or 
rope as well.
--sue

sunshine_buchler@agilent.com wrote:

> What do people do to store their hoops (the Elizabethan/Victorian bell
> version, in specific)? Once upon a time I had instructions for how to
> twist mine up to fold it, but after ~10 years of doing so, my hoop is
> now rather lop-sided (but not in a useful elliptical way...sigh). 
> 
> Since I'm being fuzzy brained and can't decide what kind of hoop to use
> with my newest project, I just acquired 2 more, but I need to figure out
> a way to store them that will 1) fit in my apartment and 2) not distort
> the hoops. What go the good people on this list do?


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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net (Elena O'Tighearnaigh)
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] hoop storage?
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Wow, Bjarne!  Could you send me the contact info for this?

Thanks!

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> Dear Sunny. 
> I would recomend you in the future to use Wissners artificially whaleboning. 
> It comes in a width of nearly 1 inch and it is very suitable for this 
> purpose, and as it is made of a plastic of a kind, you can bend it back in 
> shape, if it distorts its original shape. 
> I use it even to make the large 18th century panier hoops with this, and it 
> works very well. 
> 
> Bjarne 
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: 
> To: ; 
> Sent: Friday, March 11, 2005 12:06 AM 
> Subject: [h-cost] hoop storage? 
> 
> 
> > What do people do to store their hoops (the Elizabethan/Victorian bell 
> > version, in specific)? Once upon a time I had instructions for how to 
> > twist mine up to fold it, but after ~10 years of doing so, my hoop is 
> > now rather lop-sided (but not in a useful elliptical way...sigh). 
> > 
> > Since I'm being fuzzy brained and can't decide what kind of hoop to use 
> > with my newest project, I just acquired 2 more, but I need to figure out 
> > a way to store them that will 1) fit in my apartment and 2) not distort 
> > the hoops. What go the good people on this list do? 
> > Thanks!! 
> > -sunny 
> > 
> > 
> > _______________________________________________ 
> > h-costume mailing list 
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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I should emphasize that I am looking for a place to buy traditional 
embroidered Kebayas in the US, online or in the San Francisco Bay Area.  
There are lots of references to people in Malasia wearing them, but I 
can't go there to shop.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Regions VS Areas
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At 04:54 10/03/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>OFF TOPIC: Geography Question: I am working on a project and can't figure 
>out what to call the larger areas of France in the 19th Century.   My 
>project has areas like Brittany and Normandy.  Within these areas are 
>listed regions.  Is there another name for "area," like province?


All of the areas in France are also divided into "Departements". These are 
sort of like English counties as far as I can work out. Also of course, 
they divide geographically too "the South West", "North East" and so on. I 
have never quite worked out the systems, despite visiting France almost 
every other year.

Geographic Area
Then like Normandy etc,
then Departement
then small town area, then something even smaller, that I cannot remember 
the general name for.

Sorry, not too helpful.

Suzi


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I just got dumped on, as well, all h-costume stuff, all from the first 
part of March, but the total's closer to 50 or 60.
Since Robin and I are both on the western side of the pond, Julian, I 
suspect it's all of us, and not just the Europeans.
--Sue

Robin Netherton wrote:

> I just got more than 20 messages (mostly about the Oscars) from March 1-2
> dumped into my box. The list really has been constipated, hasn't it?
> 
> --Robin
> 

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Subject: [h-cost] New Classes & instructor
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Along time h-costumer, Danielle Nunn-Weinburg, will be teaching two new online classes at our Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com .   For those who do not know Danielle's background, she is a doctoral candidate at the University of Manchester, England, specializing in 16th century English clothing and textiles, particularly in written sources.  Although academically concentrating on 16th century clothing, Danielle's interests cover the full historical spectrum with recent focus on the Regency period and 18th century clothing.  She has a vast collection of fashion plates from 1800-1830.

Danielle's online classes are:

***16th Century English Clothing in Text (She will be covering items that she has found in her textile & clothing research in English wills.) Class starts April 11.

***A Fitting Image: Regency Clothing in Fashion Plates: 1800-1830 (class starts May 16)

We do expect for Danielle's classes to book up quickly.  If you are interested in her classes, please register ASAP.

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com 
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com 
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
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From: Lady Satine <seamuslady@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Thread & Jo-ann
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ohhhh.. I will be stateside this weekend I will have to pick some up! thansk for teh info!
 
Satine

Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net> wrote:
The Gutterman silk threads are lovely to sew with, hand OR machine!
Joannah

--- jaurbik@optonline.net wrote:

From: jaurbik@optonline.net
Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2005 10:26:28 -0500
To: Historical Costume 
Subject: [h-cost] Silk Thread & Jo-ann

I stopped at Jo-ann's yeasterday (just for some hand-sewing needles) and discorved something nice (for once at jo-anns). They are now carrying more kinds of gutterman's threads, including cotton and SILK threads. They seemed to have about 30 diffrent colors of the silk in 100m-110y spools and each spool cost about $3.90. This is about 60 cents more per spool then Dharma Traders but you don't pay shipping-but you do pay taxes.....so it is still more expenve i guess, but it is easier to match colors then online.

anyway, I have switched to mostly silk thread cause i mostly sew wool, linen, or silk so I thought I would give a heads up. They asked me to participate in a phone in survey so I made sure to mention how much I liked the fact that they were now carrying the silk thread. 

jordana

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Attention Bjarne-Wissners artifical whale boning-
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Hi,
Here is my source for artificially whaleboning.
http://www.wissner.de/
It is a german company, so i am lucky that it is my neighbor country. They 
only take big orders more than 100 euro, i think it was. I have also ordered 
their narrow 0,4 mm. boning for 18th century stays, i can make a pair of 
stays look like the authentic old ones, with this narrow boning.
Anyway, their site is also english and german, so you should not have any 
problems with the language.

Bjarne



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Wicked Frau" <wickedfrau@earthlink.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2005 3:01 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Attention Bjarne-Wissners artifical whale boning-


> Where do you buy this Bjarne?  I cannot find a source online.
> Thanks,
>
> Sg
>
> Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
>
>> Dear Sunny.
>> I would recomend you in the future to use Wissners artificially 
>> whaleboning. It comes in a width of nearly 1 inch and it is very suitable 
>> for this purpose, and as it is made of a plastic of a kind, you can bend 
>> it back in shape, if it distorts its original shape.
>> I use it even to make the large 18th century panier hoops with this, and 
>> it works very well.
>>
>> Bjarne
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: <sunshine_buchler@agilent.com>
>> To: <h-costume@indra.com>; <h-costume@net.indra.com>
>> Sent: Friday, March 11, 2005 12:06 AM
>> Subject: [h-cost] hoop storage?
>>
>>
>>> What do people do to store their hoops (the Elizabethan/Victorian bell
>>> version, in specific)? Once upon a time I had instructions for how to
>>> twist mine up to fold it, but after ~10 years of doing so, my hoop is
>>> now rather lop-sided (but not in a useful elliptical way...sigh).
>>>
>>> Since I'm being fuzzy brained and can't decide what kind of hoop to use
>>> with my newest project, I just acquired 2 more, but I need to figure out
>>> a way to store them that will 1) fit in my apartment and 2) not distort
>>> the hoops. What go the good people on this list do?
>>> Thanks!!
>>> -sunny
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
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>>
>>
>>
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar 12 16:12:59 2005
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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References: <20050312024244.3DE1B37DD0@sitemail.everyone.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Thread & Jo-ann
Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2005 16:15:24 +0100
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Hi Jordana,
Congratulations with this. Yes sewing silk is lovely to work with, i use it 
always when i make something in silk, even my zig zag at the seams gets 
silk. Sewing silk also is thicker than ordinary sewing thread, and i think 
it holds well. But it is expensive. I am currently making a pair of red 
taffeta stays fully boned with 0,4mm boning. A lot of bone channels and a 
lot of sewing silk. I calculated that i use about 150 kr. wich is about 25 
dollars for the sewing thread alone for this pair of stays.
I also baught a lot of pale blue sewing silk yesterday, because now i want 
to make my duchesse satin suit. It has ben on my plans long enough. I so 
enjoy to have many projekts going on at the same time, it is so nice that 
you can start something new, if you need a break with something else.

Bjarne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joannah Hansen" <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2005 3:42 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Thread & Jo-ann


> The Gutterman silk threads are lovely to sew with, hand OR machine!
> Joannah
>
> --- jaurbik@optonline.net wrote:
>
> From: jaurbik@optonline.net
> Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2005 10:26:28 -0500
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] Silk Thread & Jo-ann
>
> I stopped at Jo-ann's yeasterday (just for some hand-sewing needles) and 
> discorved something nice (for once at jo-anns). They are now carrying more 
> kinds of gutterman's threads, including cotton and SILK threads.  They 
> seemed to have about 30 diffrent colors of the silk in 100m-110y spools 
> and each spool cost about $3.90.     This is about 60 cents more per spool 
> then Dharma Traders but you don't pay shipping-but you do pay taxes.....so 
> it is still more expenve i guess, but it is easier to match colors then 
> online.
>
> anyway, I have switched to mostly silk thread cause i mostly sew wool, 
> linen, or silk so I thought I would give a heads up.  They asked me to 
> participate in a phone in survey so I made sure to mention how much I 
> liked the fact that  they were now carrying the silk thread.
>
> jordana
>
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>
> _____________________________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar 12 16:18:03 2005
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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kebayas
Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2005 08:34:15 -0500
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Not exactly.  I simply used "kebayas" for my look-see. The ones on e-bay
looked something like the voile shirts one is seeing in the new beach wear
sections of the general catalogues of Western wear.
I have a small volume of traditional wear from Indonesia my daughter brought
me and it has some examples of styles that overlap the Malaysian mode.
Now I do have a gown from the Philippines that will date circa1900.  It is
of vegetable (pineapple?) fiber that is rather coarse, almost like
horsehair,  with the peculiar sleeve.  The skirt, however has the turn of
the century flare.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lavolta Press" <fran@lavoltapress.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, March 11, 2005 11:17 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kebayas


> I searched for them extensively on Google and Dogpile last night.  I
> looked for "antique kebayas," "vintage kebayas," and "traditional
> kebayas."  I found a book on antique kebayas (which I ordered), a press
> release saying they are trendy in Asia, several references for stores or
> areas to shop for them if you travel to Indonesia, and one site that
> sells a few modern ones:
>
> http://chantiqskaly.fotopages.com/
>
> I have a beautiful traditional woman's kebaya in a very pale peach voile
> that is quite fitted (almost like an 1880s bodice), open in front, has
> rather long front points, and is elaborately emboidered at the hem and
> sleeve hems with a narrow embroidered border up the rest of the front
> and around the neck.  Is that the type you saw?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
>
>
>
> Lloyd Mitchell wrote:
>
> >Fran, I can guess that you have already "googled" kebayas.  I was amazed
at
> >the number of sites that came up. I only glanced at a couple of them to
get
> >an idea of what you might be looking for. The newer ones seem to be "big
> >shirts" in modern parlance.  Do you want the fitted style?
> >
> >kathleen
> >----- Original Message ----- 
> >From: "Lavolta Press" <fran@lavoltapress.com>
> >To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> >Sent: Thursday, March 10, 2005 10:40 PM
> >Subject: [h-cost] Kebayas
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>Does anyone know where online to buy vintage kebayas (Indonesian
blouses)?
> >>
> >>Fran
> >>Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
> >>http://www.lavoltapress.com
> >>_______________________________________________
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> >>h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >_______________________________________________
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> >http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >
> >
> >
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar 12 16:21:11 2005
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Anyone know this woman's work?
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A friend of mine is considering contacting Angela Essenhigh for some
costume work. Her website is http://www.asfs19.dsl.pipex.com/seams/ .

Recommendations or other feedback from those familiar with her work would
be much appreciated.

--Robin


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar 12 16:23:56 2005
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Subject: [h-cost] Pirate Reenactment
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Does anyone on this list costume for "pirate reenactment" and if so what 
is it?

Thanks,

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Well, that explains that
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Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote: I just got dumped on, as well, all h-costume stuff, all from the first 
part of March, but the total's closer to 50 or 60.
Since Robin and I are both on the western side of the pond, Julian, I 
suspect it's all of us, and not just the Europeans.

 
Ah, well, I thought that our List had been a little quiet over the last week. Glad to know that it's not just me; because other Listers have also been affected.
Julian


 
Send instant messages to your online friends http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com 
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Robin Netherton wrote:

> I just got more than 20 messages (mostly about the Oscars) from March 1-2
> dumped into my box. The list really has been constipated, hasn't it?

Not just this one -- another list I'm on through Indra.com just dumped 
messages out to me also.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent
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From: Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] delayed messages
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Apparently some ransom messages got stuck in the local system, and a
flush has just pushed them all out.

						...eliz

-- 
Children are made up of genetics, blind luck, and the stories you tell them.
 - The Flying Ks

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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Subject: RE: [h-cost] A Term I need explained
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>According to the OED:

>A pad placed in the upper part of the sleeve of a garment for the purpose of
>increasing the apparent breadth of the shoulders.

Sounds more like a sleeve head than a shoulder pad or interfacing,
which makes sense, it would form the pleated cap more crisply. That's
one modern use for a sleeve head in tailoring.
--cin
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] handweaver
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What kind of loom?  How much?

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net (Elena O'Tighearnaigh) wrote:

From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net (Elena O'Tighearnaigh)
Date: Wed, 09 Mar 2005 04:10:30 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] handweaver

Really?  I'm looking for someone who'd be interested in buying a "Floor Loom Kit".

--
Slan go foill 
Elena Tighearnaigh tha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> We are looking for another person who is skilled in weaving authentic 
> fabrics of wool and blends of wool, linen and cotton (no synthetics). If this 
> person is familiar with handspinning and/or vegetable dyeing so much the 
> better. 
> We would prefer someone who is familiar with twills and plain weaves that 
> are suitable for 18c & 19c clothing. Please feel free to forward this email to 
> anyone you feel may be interested. Thank you. 
> 
> Best regards, 
> Susannah B. Smith 
> 
> Susannah Eanes, Mantua Maker and Fine Tailoring 
> _www.virginvintage.com_ (http://www.virginvintage.com) 
> 
> "We are only the trustees for those who come after us." --William Morris 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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On Sat, 12 Mar 2005, Elizabeth Lear wrote:

> Apparently some ransom messages ...

Help! The list has been kidnapped!

--Robin

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Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2005 14:24:04 -0800 (PST)
From: Lady Satine <seamuslady@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] From Danielle
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Doesanyonewantto helpmwwith re-creating either Bes's PheonixorPelican gownsI love those two and have a LOT  of Q's thanks
 
Satine

Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote:
>>Date: Tue, 08 Mar 2005 22:57:18 -0600
>>To: Historical Costume 
>>From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg 
>>Subject: quiet list!
>>
>>The list is amazingly quiet...where is everyone?! I was hoping to be 
>>useful and come up with a juicy topic for discussion but my mind is a 
>>blank. The only things I can think of have been hashed in one form or 
>>another before...anyone want to talk about what would be their favourite 
>>movie costume to reproduce?
>>
>>Or how about would be the one costume type/time period that you have never 
>>done but really want to do? I know I've always dreamed of a robe a la 
>>francaise with huge panniers, intricately trimmed, and just completely 
>>over the top, ever since I got the fairytale book when I was a child with 
>>Cinderella decked out like that.
>>
>>That's my gambit. : )
>>
>>Cheers,
>>Danielle
>>
>>Instructor on http://www.costumeclassroom.com
>>Check out my 16th Century English Clothing in Textual Sources class
>>Check out my Regency Fashion Plates in textual sources class
>
> 


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On Saturday 12 March 2005 1:18 pm, Robin Netherton wrote:
> I just got more than 20 messages (mostly about the Oscars) from March 1-2
> dumped into my box. The list really has been constipated, hasn't it?

Yes.  Particularly since I sent mine out last week!
-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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On Thursday 03 March 2005 12:02 am, AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 3/2/2005 3:42:08 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> penny@costumegallery.com writes:
>
> If I  recall, the print was placed to hide her nipples.  I have the old
> magazines for Oscar fashions.  When I come across her photo, I will  let
> you know.

That's what I remember too.  The style--a sheer fabric with patches of opaque 
fabric/beaded fabric/embroidered decoration (choose one) was trendy at the 
time; I have a mesh top with strategically placed bead clusters that I bought 
to wear for myself around then.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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From: Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] need shoe book recommendations
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My personal favorite is the Meuseum of London series book Shoes & Patens

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- Althea Turner <althea@alfalfapress.com> wrote:

From: Althea Turner <althea@alfalfapress.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Mar 2005 10:04:27 -0800
To: Costume Historical <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] need shoe book recommendations

hello,

I am looking for recommendations of books about shoemaking.  I know 
there are some shoe-gurus on the list and would love some advice.  My 
bro-in-law is apprenticing with a shoe maker and I want this for a 
Christmas present.  I don't have a particular period, but I lean 
towards medieval. Thanks!

Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com
*** http://www.alfalfapress.com

I think, therefore I'm dangerous.

I'll be Post-Feminist in a Post-Patriarchy

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar 12 18:19:16 2005
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Subject: [h-cost] Kebayas
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I have already received my book on traditional kebayas:  _The Nyonya 
Kebaya:  A Century of Straits Chinese Costume_, by Datin Seri Endon 
Mahmood.  It has beautiful pictures, no real patterns but some details 
on the construction process.  I'm going to use it to try and communicate 
with http://www.chantiqskaly.com in enough detail to get one made.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

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On Tuesday 08 March 2005 7:43 am, Susannah9810@aol.com wrote:
> My daughter is to play a Saxon peasant in a school production of the Norman
> invasion for her 5th grade social studies class.  

[snip]

> The teacher says to just "cut holes for arms & head in a sheet & sew up 
> the sides & put a dark vest on over it," but that chills my historic 
> sensibilities to the bone.  Are there any articles in her 18c wardrobe that
>  could be adapted?

[snip]

In the Anglo-Saxon period, there's no indication that there was a big 
difference in cut between what the wealthy wore and what peasants wore--the 
major differences were type of cloth (nobles wore finer wools and possibly 
sometimes even silk) and ornamentation (much less likely to be found on 
peasant clothing).

The linen shift will do just fine, but she really should have an 
at-least-ankle length, straight or slightly A-line cut tunic to wear over it. 
There are a number of websites that describe how to make these; here are some 
of the ones I think are more useful:

For a method that matches surviving period garments pretty well:

http://www.forest.gen.nz/Medieval/articles/Tunics/TUNICS.HTML

http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/beginners/FirstGarb.html

For a non-period method that doesn't require as much cutting:

http://home1.gte.net/kmvogt/ktunic1.html

 In period, such tunics would beAlthough I have never seen evidence of aprons 
being worn by Anglo-Saxon women or girls, I don't think it would be terribly 
false to period for her to wear a white apron.  (Solid color aprons in colors 
other than white I've heard of for later in the Middle Ages, but I've never 
heard of any striped aprons in period.

I don't think the shortgown or the petticoat will be of any use to you for 
this period, alas.

As for headwear, women are usually depicted in veils.  Maidens  (i.e., young 
unmarried girls) could get away without wearing headwear.  

Here are some potentially useful websites on Anglo-Saxon garb in particular:

http://www.octavia.net/9thclife/Clothing.htm
http://users.ox.ac.uk/~wychwood/costume/moreinfo.shtml#female

If you have time, or decide you've acquired a more than casual interest, this 
book (also available on Amazon) is an amazing compendium of information about 
the subject:

http://www.boydell.co.uk/43830817.HTM

Hope this does for a first start.
-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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According to my memory (a notoriously unreliable instrument), there is a 
French painting of dancers that shows "bum rolls" and other undergarments 
of the period... I just cannot remember the exact citation. I'm leaving 
town shortly or I would look it up for you.

Beth

At 04:55 PM 3/12/2005, you wrote:
>Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2005 14:02:29 -0500
>From: "Kass McGann" <historian@reconstructinghistory.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] RE: 18th century 'bum roll'
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Message-ID: <000201c52736$0e302280$686453d8@Kass>
>Content-Type: text/plain;       charset="us-ascii"
>
>Elizabeth,
>
>You could certainly ignore this 'bumroll' thing altogether.  Many 18th
>century gowns were worn with multiple petticotes for fullness, but no
>bumrolls at all.  I honestly couldn't tell you if the 'bumroll' is a
>modern costumer's idea or if they really wore them in the 18th century.
>I'm going to have to track down that "cork" reference now and see where
>it comes from!  Panniers (side hoops) and round hoops, definitely.  But
>I can't think of a period picture of a bumroll, and we have a lot of
>period pictures of everything else a woman wore under her gown.
>
>Personally, I have never worn a bumroll with my polonaise gowns and I
>make the one to which you refer in Patterns of Fashion quite often and
>it fits perfectly well.  Once a volunteer at the 1753 house asked me if
>I would teach her how to make one of my bumrolls and I had to disappoint
>her that I wasn't wearing one!  (Does that count as the costumer's
>equivalent of asking a non-pregnant woman when she's due? <wink>)
>
>If you want to see a picture of how mine looks from the back, check out
>the blue dress on this page (page down a bit):
>http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/18thc/gallery.html
>The burgundy dress on my friend Britt is also the same style and she
>wore it without a bumroll too.
>
>Skip the bumroll.  I'm sure it will look wonderful!
>
>Kass
>Reconstructing History Patterns

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At 17:49 12/03/2005 -0600, you wrote:
>According to my memory (a notoriously unreliable instrument), there is a 
>French painting of dancers that shows "bum rolls" and other undergarments 
>of the period... I just cannot remember the exact citation. I'm leaving 
>town shortly or I would look it up for you.
>
>Beth
>
>At 04:55 PM 3/12/2005, you wrote:
>>Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2005 14:02:29 -0500
>>From: "Kass McGann" <historian@reconstructinghistory.com>
>>Subject: [h-cost] RE: 18th century 'bum roll'
>>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>>Message-ID: <000201c52736$0e302280$686453d8@Kass>
>>Content-Type: text/plain;       charset="us-ascii"
>>
>>Elizabeth,
>>
>>You could certainly ignore this 'bumroll' thing altogether.  Many 18th
>>century gowns were worn with multiple petticotes for fullness, but no
>>bumrolls at all.  I honestly couldn't tell you if the 'bumroll' is a
>>modern costumer's idea or if they really wore them in the 18th century.
>>I'm going to have to track down that "cork" reference now and see where
>>it comes from!  Panniers (side hoops) and round hoops, definitely.  But
>>I can't think of a period picture of a bumroll, and we have a lot of
>>period pictures of everything else a woman wore under her gown.


There are various shapes of bum rolls in a cartoon by Rowlandson, called, I 
think, "The Bum Shop".  Possibly to be found in "Corsets and Crinolines"? I 
don't have mine to hand right now.

Suzi


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At 18:17 09/03/2005 -0800, you wrote:
>I've got a bunch of peacock feathers I've been thinking of sewing with - but
>haven't been sure of the best method.  How did you do it?
>
>Margo Glenn-Lewis
>Longtime lurker


Only received this today - 12th. Sorry not to have been able to answer you 
before.

I cut the feathers quite short, so there was no "stem" without feathery 
bits. Starting at the bottom, I laid the foundation row, on metallic silk 
organza. First stitch, a knot into the fabric, and anchored thread, then 
over the stem twice, then through the stem once or twice to stop it moving. 
Finish off firmly - those feathers walk. Then repeat, just under the "eye" 
part, very firm and tight, as this stops the feather turning too much. 
Don't bother to sew through this time. Then do the next row like a row of 
bricks, in the gaps. It is tedious, time consuming and back breaking!!

You can see the results here
http://suziclarke4384.fotopic.net/p10043022.html

Suzi


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At 09:15 10/03/2005 -0500, you wrote:


> >Besides, I would miss those wonderful moments that go "I didn't know I had
> >that!!"
>
>Boy, can I ever relate to that ;))
>
> >But I also found a length of green wool for a skirt, which I vaguely
> >remember buying when I was a college (!), a length of green silk, and ditto
>
> >blue striped silk which I shall use *eventually*!! I would miss all of that
>
> >if I was organised!!
>
>Honey, I have fabric that my GRANDMOTHER bought, never used, gave to mother,
>ditto and I have had it for over 30 years!!!  Any ideas on what to do with
>some lovely apple green satin that is over 80 years old????


Me too!! I have just given a pile of wartime underwear crepe to a friend 
who does World War ll re-enactment.  She will pay me in sewing hours - fair 
barter as far as I am concerned!!

Suzi





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From: "Margo Glenn-Lewis" <nomadmt@pacbell.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>, <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] fabric organization now peacock feathers
Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2005 16:34:58 -0800
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Thank you, Suzi!  The delay seems to have been something to do with the
list.

I really appreciate your taking the time to answer my question - and the
link to your finished product.  Stunning!!!  Backbreaking and tedious and
time consuming probably does not even begin to describe it!  And I am
impressed that it only took you two days.  


Margo Glenn-Lewis

"Don't Forget Your Bucket"
Ice Machine in the Desert/Brave Combo

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2005 4:15 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] fabric organization now peacock feathers

At 18:17 09/03/2005 -0800, you wrote:
>I've got a bunch of peacock feathers I've been thinking of sewing with -
but
>haven't been sure of the best method.  How did you do it?
>
>Margo Glenn-Lewis
>Longtime lurker


Only received this today - 12th. Sorry not to have been able to answer you 
before.

I cut the feathers quite short, so there was no "stem" without feathery 
bits. Starting at the bottom, I laid the foundation row, on metallic silk 
organza. First stitch, a knot into the fabric, and anchored thread, then 
over the stem twice, then through the stem once or twice to stop it moving. 
Finish off firmly - those feathers walk. Then repeat, just under the "eye" 
part, very firm and tight, as this stops the feather turning too much. 
Don't bother to sew through this time. Then do the next row like a row of 
bricks, in the gaps. It is tedious, time consuming and back breaking!!

You can see the results here
http://suziclarke4384.fotopic.net/p10043022.html

Suzi


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From: Bella <bella_lucia_da_verona@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1560's  Venitian chemise
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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--- Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz> wrote:

> I concur.  If you want to pull puffs of the camicia sleeves through 
> slashes you _need_ extra length.  I don't see how any other opinions
> are 
> really possible.


I meant that there is another opinion to the effect that the 'camicia'
seen in slashes and poufs is faked, not the real camicia. :-)





Donna Bella Lucia da Verona - Innilgard, Lochac
©Any intellectual material in this message is copyright Anabella Wake (Bella Lucia da Verona)
 ***The MARCH Italian Showcase is now online!*** http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/yourgarb/showcase.htm

Find local movie times and trailers on Yahoo! Movies.
http://au.movies.yahoo.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oscars/nude fabric
Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2005 19:41:56 -0500
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WOW, this message was sent March 1 and is just showing up on the list.

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 01, 2005 7:58 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oscars/nude fabric


> If you watch Cher's videos of her last two tours she is wearing a lot of 
> the nude fabric.  I think the catch is getting it dyed as close to your 
> skin color so that no one notices.
>
> Penny Ladnier, owner
> The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
> Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
> Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
>
> _______________________________________________
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> 


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Subject: [h-cost] Another site for those interested in embroidered folk
	clothing
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Embroidered Romanian Blouses
http://www.costumes.ro/folk_blouses.htm
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: stripey duppioni source
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Thank you Caithlin....I have not had good experiences with at least one 
sales person... but I will give it a try in this case. !  Thanks!

Sg

C M wrote:

> Hi,
>
> now for the fourth time (my e-mail doesn't like me to send anything at 
> the moment...)
>
> A source for stripey duppioni silk could be hyena fabrics 
> (www.hyenaproductions.com). They might not have the exact same fabric 
> in stock, but they could most likely get it for you. They have been 
> able to get specialty silks in the past provided you get at least 10 y.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Caithlinn
>
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] to fit a pattern-an alternative
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Oh darn! I was about to send you congratulations on such a great deal.   
But Bjarne, have you ever made a duct tape dummy?  You would need help 
from your honey (and a few close friends would make it go faster), but 
it is such a great way to go if you need an exact replica of yourself. 

Sg


>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Silk Brocade
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Thanks for the report...that blue and gold looks very yummy to me!

Kathy Page wrote:

>http://dollarfabric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=00000001&Category_Code=2054
>
>I recieved my samples of these silk brocades - they
>really ARE silk, burned like it, disintegrated in
>bleach like it... it's gotta be a duck.
>
>The overall weave is fairly thin but the metal threads
>keep it stiff. The metal threads slip out as fast as
>breathe on them though. The seams would have to be
>completely finished in order to sustain any wear and
>tear. The rondels are approximately 12 cm in diameter
>based on my estimation - they gave me samples that
>were too small to include a complete repeat. I
>assembled them together into best estimate and
>measured from there.
>
>Thought I'd give a review on my findings. :-)
>
>Kathy
>
>______________________________________________________________________ 
>Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Well, that explains that
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You made me LOL!  (That doesn't happen very often!)
Sg

Robin Netherton wrote:

>I just got more than 20 messages (mostly about the Oscars) from March 1-2
>dumped into my box. The list really has been constipated, hasn't it?
>
>--Robin
>
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Subject: Re: Subject: RE: [h-cost] A Term I need explained
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Oh goody, then I can perhaps call this one Mahoitered, even though it 
doesn't look much like the "typical ones"

http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Unknown.jpg

See Deredrere's post of 3/11 and my response:


Ref:
You are not going to believe this, but I just wrote an inquiry to the 
Chatsworth house where this painting lives.  The reply is attached.  I 
have been given permission to have a better black and white picture and 
may be ordering the transparency.  (In a later note, "They" decided to 
not sell me a slide.).   If you want to go in on the transparency, 
contact me off list.  ;}

Sg

Dear Saragrace Knauf,

Thank you for your email.

The painting is no longer thought to be of Mary Queen of Scots after a 
pectoral cross that had been overpainted onto the original painting was 
removed in a 1950s cleaning. There is little doubt that the painting had 
been altered in order to sell it to a former owner as Mary Queen of 
Scots.  It is now attributed to Alonso Sanchez Coello (1531/2-1588)?
Please can you tell me why you want a 35mm slide?  These are usually 
only spplied for lecturing purposes.  If you are wishing to reproduce 
the image in a publication I can hire you a 5 x 4" colour transparency 
for a three month period at £35 (+VAT).  In addition there is a 
reproduction fee dependant on usage.
Regarding a listing of the paintings at Chatswowrth, you can apply for a 
list of Pictures from the Photo Survey Dept. of the Courtauld Institute 
of Art, the Strand, London. We also sell a list of paintings which hang 
on the public route of the house.

My colleague, Charles Noble, Keeper of the Collection, 
(collection@chatsworth.org) would like you to contact him if you have 
comments to make about the dress shown in the portrait. Is it Spanish, 
for instance, or can it be tied to a specific nationality?
I look forward to hearing from you in due course.

Yours sincerely,

Diane Naylor


--------------------------
Diane P. Naylor (Mrs)
Photo Librarian
Chatsworth
Bakewell
Derbyshire DE45 1PP
Tel: +44 (0)1246 565300
Fax: +44 (0)1246 565318


http://www.chatsworth.org
The views expressed in this message are those of the individual sender 
and therefore the Trustees of the Chatsworth Settlement cannot accept 
legal or contractual responsibility for its content.

This message, and any attachments with it, are confidential. If you have 
received this message in error, please notify the sender and destroy 
your copies of the message and any attachments.


Deredere Galbraith wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I've got a black and white picture of a dress and I would like to see 
> it in colour and to have some more information of it.
> Is there anyone who knows more about this painting?
> http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Unknown.jpg
>
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Cin wrote:

>>According to the OED:
>>    
>>
>
>  
>
>>A pad placed in the upper part of the sleeve of a garment for the purpose of
>>increasing the apparent breadth of the shoulders.
>>    
>>
>
>Sounds more like a sleeve head than a shoulder pad or interfacing,
>which makes sense, it would form the pleated cap more crisply. That's
>one modern use for a sleeve head in tailoring.
>--cin
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Subject: [h-cost] And if you want a Ukranian blouse
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Ukranian blouses
http://www.geocities.com/ukrainian_handicrafts/
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A dump that is an understatement more like an avalanche. 

Brin Kendall

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Wicked Frau" <wickedfrau@earthlink.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2005 5:12 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Well, that explains that


You made me LOL!  (That doesn't happen very often!)
Sg

Robin Netherton wrote:

>I just got more than 20 messages (mostly about the Oscars) from March 1-2
>dumped into my box. The list really has been constipated, hasn't it?
>
>--Robin
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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>  
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar 12 22:39:42 2005
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From: "Megan M." <megan@benchite.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] pattern software question
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Does anyone here use Dress Shop or Pattern Master by Wild Ginger?  I am
thinking of getting one of the software packages to save altering patterns
and the headache it is for me, but am wondering if anyone can help me
compare them, or has experience with them.  You can reply off list if you
wish.  Thanks.
-Megan





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Subject: [h-cost] A site on kebayas
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Appears to be excerpts from the book I bought.  Does not download fast, 
but nice pictures.
http://www.zcreations.biz/kebaya/main.htm

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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At Sat, 12 Mar 2005 20:37:30 +0000, Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:

>Geographic Area
>Then like Normandy etc,

province ("Provence" est un "province")

>then Departement
>then small town area, then something even smaller, that I cannot remember 
>the general name for.

arrondissement

which IIRC is something like a district within a city, much like the "nth 
City Council district" or the "mth school board district". Back in HS 
French class, we were told that certain Parisian arrondissements had 
specific "characters" attributed to them (much like we get the rich section 
of town, the student-housing areas, "the other side of the tracks", etc.)...



Brenda
webwarren@earthlink.net


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http://www.blanconet.it
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Subject: [h-cost] Online source for info on 17-18th century fabric
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Hope this isn't too late - but try Brigade of the American Revolution (BAR) or Jos. Townsend Co, or Smoke and Fire.

Hope this helps
Katheryne 


---- Original Mesage----

Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2005 14:40:00 +0000
From: Lena Strid <lstrid@mglarc.com>
Subject: [h-cost] Online source for info on 17-18th century fabric

I'm suddenly finding myself writing an archaeological report on
post-medieval fabrics from a site in Dublin. As my focus is the medieval
period, I'm a bit on thin ice here. Does anyone know of a good online source
for information on everyday wear, fabric materials etc from the 17th - 18th
century? I have only two days to write the report, so library hunting is
unfortunately out of the question.  

/Lena


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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Looking for shoe book recommendations
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>From: Althea Turner <althea@alfalfapress.com>
>I am looking for recommendations of books about shoemaking.  I know
>there are some shoe-gurus on the list and would love some advice.  My
>bro-in-law is apprenticing with a shoe maker and I want this for a
>Christmas present.  I don't have a particular period, but I lean
>towards medieval. Thanks!

Some pretty good shoe books.

Goubitz, Olaf, Carol van Driel-Murray, and Willy Groenman-Van Waateringe. 
Stepping through Time: Archaeological Footwear from Prehistoric Times until 
1800. ZwoIIe Netherlands: Stichting Promotie Archeologie, 2001.

Grew, Francis, and Margrethe de Neergaard. Shoes and Pattens Medieval Finds 
from Excavations in London: 2. London: Her Majesty's Stationary Office, 
1988.

Mould, Quita, Ian Carlisle, and Esther A. Cameron. Craft, Industry and 
Everyday Life.~ Leather and Leatherworking in Anglo-Scandinavian and 
Medieval York. Vol. Vol. 17, Fasc. 16 The Archaeology of York.; the Small 
Finds. York: Council for British Archaeology, 2003.

Marc


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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1560's  Venitian chemise
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Bella wrote:

>--- Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz> wrote:
>
>  
>
>>I concur.  If you want to pull puffs of the camicia sleeves through 
>>slashes you _need_ extra length.  I don't see how any other opinions
>>are 
>>really possible.
>>    
>>
>
>
>I meant that there is another opinion to the effect that the 'camicia'
>seen in slashes and poufs is faked, not the real camicia. :-)
>
>
>  
>
Ah, fair enough.  But having made one or two things with poofy sleeves, 
I think the "false puffs" theory doesn't stand up to the application of 
Occam's razor (Occam's pinking shears?), at least not for the styles 
I've made.

Adele d'M
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Oscars
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Ann,

I checked in my Oscar fashion mags.  The floral prints / overlay were over a 
good portion of Haley's breasts.

BTW, about those fantail dresses... I checked my Oscar mags and they have 
been worn back and forth since the 1980s.  One or two actresses would wear 
the style to the Oscar but this year took the cake for the style.

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
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RE: Keeping a gown on:

Lalah is correct about the spray.  Hairspray is also used to hold a garment 
in place, especially bathing suit bottoms.  A double stick tape is also 
used.
Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: 18thc 'bumrolls'
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I know the illustration, Beth.  It's in the first Patterns of Fashion
and the picture dates to 1625.  Not helpful for documentation of
bumrolls in the 18th century.

Thanks for the memory job, Suzi.  The picture *is* called "The Bum Shop"
and it dates to 1785.  But it doesn't, unfortunately, show any "bums" in
the shape that Hunnisett and Arnold show.

I really believe that they are applying the 16th/early 17th century bum
roll to the 18th century.  And I contend that it is the wrong shape
altogether and makes the wrong profile under the 1770s polonaise
Elizabeth is talking about making.

If anyone has any illustrations of sausage/crescent bumrolls being used
in the 18th century, please let us know.  Because I think it's a
mistake.

Kass
>>>>
Message: 5
Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 00:24:42 +0000
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 164
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20050313002318.0156ec28@127.0.0.1>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

At 17:49 12/03/2005 -0600, you wrote:
>According to my memory (a notoriously unreliable instrument), there is 
>a
>French painting of dancers that shows "bum rolls" and other
undergarments 
>of the period... I just cannot remember the exact citation. I'm leaving

>town shortly or I would look it up for you.
>
>Beth
>
There are various shapes of bum rolls in a cartoon by Rowlandson,
called, I 
think, "The Bum Shop".  Possibly to be found in "Corsets and
Crinolines"? I 
don't have mine to hand right now.

Suzi




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Subject: [h-cost] RE:Pirate Reenactment
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Sure.  I am involved in Pirate reenactment.  It is the reenactment of
the Golden Age of Piracy (1680s-1720s).  Mostly we're a group of Rev War
reenactors who are also into period seamanship.  So one day when we were
sick of drilling in the sun in July, we decided we'd rather be lawless
criminals.  And the Pirate Brethren were born.  We kitted ourselves out
in late 17th/18th century clothing and accoutrements, and we do events
where we talk about what real pirates were like in the Golden Age of
Piracy (I think, actually, that we've forbidden the word "Arrrrgh" from
our vocabulary!).  We do a variety of evening in the Mid-Atlantic
states, everything from living history timelines to Renaissance Faires.

Here's a link to my group:
http://www.piratebrethren.com/ 

I found out this year that Pirate Reenactment is so popular throughout
the country (even in land-locked states!) that this autumn I am planning
on producing a line of patterns for the Golden Age of Piracy for men and
women.  I also volunteer at Pennsbury Manor http://pennsbury.org and
their constant complaint is that there is no source of clothing for the
turn of the 18th century.  So I will be producing patterns later in the
year to fill this need.

Bet you didn't know there was such a big Pirate contingency, Fran, other
than the "poly pirates" who run around the Ren Faires and say "Arrrgh" a
lot.  ;)

Kass

Reconstructing History Patterns
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-----Original Message-----
 Message: 1
Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2005 11:01:16 -0800
From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
Subject: [h-cost] Pirate Reenactment
To: h-costume@indra.com
Message-ID: <42333C7C.8070502@lavoltapress.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

Does anyone on this list costume for "pirate reenactment" and if so what

is it?

Thanks,

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com


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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Online source for info on 17-18th century fabric
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Hi Lena,

It isn't European 18th century, but there is a wonderful swatch book
called "Textiles for Colonial Clothing" by Sally Queen that explains all
the different fabrics in use here and includes samples of each.  As many
of these fabrics were imported from England, I would think it would be
useful in your search.
Here's a link to the book on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0965819744/reconstructinghi/ 

I hope that helps,
Kass

Reconstructing History Patterns
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-----Original Message-----
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2005 14:40:00 +0000
From: Lena Strid <lstrid@mglarc.com>
Subject: [h-cost] Online source for info on 17-18th century fabric

I'm suddenly finding myself writing an archaeological report on
post-medieval fabrics from a site in Dublin. As my focus is the medieval
period, I'm a bit on thin ice here. Does anyone know of a good online
source
for information on everyday wear, fabric materials etc from the 17th -
18th
century? I have only two days to write the report, so library hunting is
unfortunately out of the question.  

/Lena


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Kass McGann wrote:

> Bet you didn't know there was such a big Pirate contingency, Fran, other
> than the "poly pirates" who run around the Ren Faires and say "Arrrgh" a
> lot.  ;)

Cool!

I have some friends who rented a sailing ship for a trip around SF bay 
years ago, to do sort of pirate reenactment.  They're less serious than 
you, I think, but more of the wool-and-linen sort.  I wasn't able to 
attend, dang.

I know there are whole organizations dedicated to the poly-pirates; I've 
stumbled upon their websites before.  They're usually heavily dependent 
upon "Arrrr"s.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent
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References: <4.3.1.2.20050301223124.025a13a0@mail.frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century 'bum roll'
Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 07:27:22 -0500
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This tube idea is done easily with the old nylon stocking...
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Carolyn Kayta Barrows" <kayta@frys.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 1:34 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century 'bum roll'


>
> >C'mon! You don't need a pattern! It's a crescent shape. It stops just at
the
> >front of the hips. [so the waist measurement of the inside curve is maybe
2"
> >or 3" more than 1/2 your waist measurement.] No padding in front.
>
> Or you could just make a tube the right diameter for the back part, long
> enough to reach all the way around you and with tie strings on each
> end.  Stuff it with about half as much padding as would fill it, and pack
> the padding toward the middle so that the ends get smaller at the tie
strings.
>
>
>         CarolynKayta Barrows
> dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
>           www.FunStuft.com
>
>               //// \\\
>              ////-@@\\\
>             ((((   7 )))
>              (((  <> ))))
>                 )   ((((((
>            /----\   /---\))
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric organization
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Oh yes, i have a wonderfull idea, send it over here to Denmark to me 
please!!!!!

Bjarne

Sorry could not resist.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 10, 2005 3:15 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] fabric organization


>
>
>>Besides, I would miss those wonderful moments that go "I didn't know I had
>>that!!"
>
> Boy, can I ever relate to that ;))
>
>>But I also found a length of green wool for a skirt, which I vaguely
>>remember buying when I was a college (!), a length of green silk, and 
>>ditto
>
>>blue striped silk which I shall use *eventually*!! I would miss all of 
>>that
>
>>if I was organised!!
>
>>Suzi
>
> Honey, I have fabric that my GRANDMOTHER bought, never used, gave to 
> mother,
> ditto and I have had it for over 30 years!!!  Any ideas on what to do with
> some lovely apple green satin that is over 80 years old????
>
> Anne
>
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 164
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And written refferenses two!!!!

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 13, 2005 1:24 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 164


> At 17:49 12/03/2005 -0600, you wrote:
>>According to my memory (a notoriously unreliable instrument), there is a 
>>French painting of dancers that shows "bum rolls" and other undergarments 
>>of the period... I just cannot remember the exact citation. I'm leaving 
>>town shortly or I would look it up for you.
>>
>>Beth
>>
>>At 04:55 PM 3/12/2005, you wrote:
>>>Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2005 14:02:29 -0500
>>>From: "Kass McGann" <historian@reconstructinghistory.com>
>>>Subject: [h-cost] RE: 18th century 'bum roll'
>>>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>>>Message-ID: <000201c52736$0e302280$686453d8@Kass>
>>>Content-Type: text/plain;       charset="us-ascii"
>>>
>>>Elizabeth,
>>>
>>>You could certainly ignore this 'bumroll' thing altogether.  Many 18th
>>>century gowns were worn with multiple petticotes for fullness, but no
>>>bumrolls at all.  I honestly couldn't tell you if the 'bumroll' is a
>>>modern costumer's idea or if they really wore them in the 18th century.
>>>I'm going to have to track down that "cork" reference now and see where
>>>it comes from!  Panniers (side hoops) and round hoops, definitely.  But
>>>I can't think of a period picture of a bumroll, and we have a lot of
>>>period pictures of everything else a woman wore under her gown.
>
>
> There are various shapes of bum rolls in a cartoon by Rowlandson, called, 
> I think, "The Bum Shop".  Possibly to be found in "Corsets and 
> Crinolines"? I don't have mine to hand right now.
>
> Suzi
>
>
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Mar 13 10:18:13 2005
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Dear Kass
I dont know if you have ever ben to Victoria & Albert Museum in London? They 
have several dresses worn with bumrolls, and i can asure you that the 
bumroll is nescesary to obtain that skirt shape, wich they are made with.
Also Norah Waugh has several quotations about bumrolls.
A letter written in 1777 in french mentions them and they are called Culs 
postiches.
Other words are Cul de Crin wich means they are made of horse hair.
The english sometimes calles it a Cork Rump because the stuffing is made of 
small pieces of Cork.
You must remember that there were so many different shapes of these "bum 
rolls" that it almost was nescesary to make a bumroll for each dress you 
had. Fashion changed very quickly.
I am sorry that i dissapoint you here, but there are many evidents that they 
existed

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Vol 4, Issue 166: Out of order digests
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I've been getting the digests is some really wacky order recently. 
Yesterday: 158, 161, 141(!), 142, 145, 163, 159, 160, 162, 164, 165 is 
how the came in.  Anyone else out there having this problem?

Jeanine
in snowy MA

h-costume-request@indra.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2005 17:30:09 -0800
> From: "Edith Reardon" <edieann@telus.net>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Well, that explains that
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <001301c5276c$31ed1760$6a8e059a@bc.hsia.telus.net>
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> 
> A dump that is an understatement more like an avalanche. 
> 
> Brin Kendall
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Wicked Frau" <wickedfrau@earthlink.net>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2005 5:12 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Well, that explains that
> 
> 
> You made me LOL!  (That doesn't happen very often!)
> Sg
> 
> Robin Netherton wrote:
> 
> 
>>I just got more than 20 messages (mostly about the Oscars) from March 1-2
>>dumped into my box. The list really has been constipated, hasn't it?
>>
>>--Robin


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE:Pirate Reenactment
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I would have thought that pirate reenactment would be less popular, 
because if you're really going to do it you'd need a ship (and for 
purists a period ship at that), and an ocean or at least a large lake to 
sail it on.  One imposes a financial limitation, the other a geographic 
limitation.  Or is pirate reenactment less purist?

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com


>Bet you didn't know there was such a big Pirate contingency, Fran, other
>than the "poly pirates" who run around the Ren Faires and say "Arrrgh" a
>lot.  ;)
>
>Kass
>
>Reconstructing History Patterns
>http://reconstructinghistory.com 
>Join Our Pattern Discussion List:
>http://reconstructinghistory.com/mailman/listinfo/patterns_reconstructin
>ghistory.com 
>
>-----Original Message-----
> Message: 1
>Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2005 11:01:16 -0800
>From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] Pirate Reenactment
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Message-ID: <42333C7C.8070502@lavoltapress.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
>
>Does anyone on this list costume for "pirate reenactment" and if so what
>
>is it?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Fran
>Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
>http://www.lavoltapress.com
>
>
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>
>  
>
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A while ago (a couple of months?) there was a thread about Pirates and privateers on the SCANautical (sp?) list on yahoogroups. 

But mostly it dealt with the types of ships - but with a little on the 'pirates' themselves.

Katheryne

----- Original Message -----
From: Kass McGann <historian@reconstructinghistory.com>
> Sure.  I am involved in Pirate reenactment.  It is the reenactment of
> the Golden Age of Piracy (1680s-1720s).  Mostly we're a group of 
> Rev War reenactors who are also into period seamanship.  So one day when 
> we were sick of drilling in the sun in July, we decided we'd rather be lawless
> criminals.  And the Pirate Brethren were born.  We kitted ourselves out
> in late 17th/18th century clothing and accoutrements, and we do events
> where we talk about what real pirates were like in the Golden Age of Piracy (I think, actually, that we've forbidden the word "Arrrrgh" from our vocabulary!).  We do a variety of evening in the Mid-Atlantic states, everything from living history timelines to Renaissance Faires.
> Here's a link to my group:
> http://www.piratebrethren.com/ 
> 
>Kass 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> 
> Does anyone on this list costume for "pirate reenactment" and if so what is it?
> Thanks,
> Fran
> Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming

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Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 11:59:45 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE:Pirate Reenactment
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     You don't need your own ship, any more than you need your own
ballroom to do period dance.  There are a few reconstructed period
ships around.  Of course, these days they have modern
navigation/safety equipment (generally hidden away) but they look
good!

     And then there is the camp on the beach, or the pirates at a tavern
scenario.

     -Carol


> I would have thought that pirate reenactment would be less popular,
> because if you're really going to do it you'd need a ship (and for
> purists a period ship at that), and an ocean or at least a large lake to
> sail it on.  One imposes a financial limitation, the other a geographic
> limitation.  Or is pirate reenactment less purist?
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
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In a message dated 3/13/2005 10:13:03 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

I am  sorry that i dissapoint you here, but there are many evidents that they 
 
existed



I was gonna say all that.
 
And the bum rolls are not necessarily for a Polonaise but for the  silhouette 
that came up right after that.
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>     You don't need your own ship, any more than you need your own
>ballroom to do period dance.  There are a few reconstructed period
>ships around.  
>
Who owns them and how do you go about getting someone to let you use one?

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

>  
>
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On Tue, 1 Mar 2005 Theresathreadgi@aol.com wrote:

> Sorry to cause you to waste your time now that I finally figured out
> what I want to do instead of what it was strongly suggested I do.

Doesn't sound like a waste of time to me, if the discussion helped you
figure out what you want to do!

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE:Pirate Reenactment
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     One I know of specifically is the Kalmar Nyckel, which is owned (was
commisioned to be built) by the State of Delaware.  They have used it
for the Howard Pyle festival, although I don't know how much the
pirate reenactors got to play on it.

     I think ships can also be rented (with their regular crew, of
course).  One can volunteer to learn to crew ships, which is another
way to do the historic maritime hobby.  Rental gets pretty expensive,
though, even when spread among the members of a group.

     As with many things, if you're involved as a volunteer or participant
at a public event, it's easier.  If you want to do it privately with
your group, it becomes more expensive.

     -Carol


>>     You don't need your own ship, any more than you need your own
>>ballroom to do period dance.  There are a few reconstructed period
>>ships around.
>>
> Who owns them and how do you go about getting someone to let you use one?
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press
> http://www.lavoltapress.com

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From: Elizabeth Young <lizyoung@fenris.net>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] dylon dye
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AFIK they do not. If they do, then I would be very very interested.
There are several kinds of Dylon dye available in the US, but I do not 
believe that the Machine Dye is one of them.

liz

Lloyd Mitchell wrote:
> Doesn't Dahma carry this?
> 
> 
> Kathleen
> --- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Elizabeth Young" <lizyoung@fenris.net>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Friday, March 04, 2005 10:48 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] dylon dye
> 
> 
> 
>>Susan Farmer wrote:
>>
>>>>I think there are machine instructions too.  Can you get Dylon hot-water
>>>>dye in the US?  I can't anymore.
>>>
>>>
>>>so where does one get this wondrous stuff?  I have a need to RE-dye a
> 
> faded
> 
>>>black doublet/jerkin .....
>>
>>I got my original boxes from Teddy as part of the Great Dye Experiment*
>>several years ago. I have since ordered Dylon Machine Dye from the UK
>>http://www.sewandso.co.uk/ran840-0.html
>>
>>I have a large Kenmore front-loader, theoretically modeled on German
>>front loaders. This Dylon Dye (not available in the US) and my machine
>>do a great job dying large jobs. No residue, even color, seems to be
>>mostly color fast (cotton and linen dyed so far).
>>
>>liz young
>>
>>*Several of us on the list in the US received boxes of Dylon Machine Dye
>>from Teddy (I think Teddy sent them all) and tried the dye in our
>>American machines. I know it worked in front-loaders and worked some of
>>the time in top-loaders. "Dylon Machine Dye" in the archives ought to
>>get you the thread.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE:Pirate Reenactment
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>     I think ships can also be rented (with their regular crew, of
>course).  One can volunteer to learn to crew ships, which is another
>way to do the historic maritime hobby.  Rental gets pretty expensive,
>though, even when spread among the members of a group.
>  
>
That's what I thought--that you'd also have to pay the crew.  A historic 
reenactor doesn't necessarily have a clue about sailing, considering 
that owning any kind of boat and getting experience with it isn't 
cheap.  It's hard to imagine someone who owned a reproduction ship 
letting amateurs crew it and risking potential damage to the ship, or 
even someone getting drowned.  

>     As with many things, if you're involved as a volunteer or participant
>at a public event, it's easier.  
>
>  
>

But how much of that is there really?  Or do people mostly do the 
tavern/beach scenarios?  Are you involved in them?  I haven't seen 
pirate reenactment discussed much in costuming egroups.

As someone said, I've seen the polypirates but have not thought of them 
as a large reenactment movement.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

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Original post:

>
> >     I think ships can also be rented (with their regular crew, of
> >course).  One can volunteer to learn to crew ships, which is another
> >way to do the historic maritime hobby.  Rental gets pretty expensive,
> >though, even when spread among the members of a group.
> >

Fran wrote:
> That's what I thought--that you'd also have to pay the crew.  A historic
> reenactor doesn't necessarily have a clue about sailing, considering
> that owning any kind of boat and getting experience with it isn't
> cheap.  It's hard to imagine someone who owned a reproduction ship
> letting amateurs crew it and risking potential damage to the ship, or
> even someone getting drowned.

Well, there is always the indoor pirate ship in West Edmonton Mall in
Edmonton (Alberta, Canada) as I recall they have had weddings on it.  (I was
always looking to find a way to sneak on to it without getting caught, as a
kid)

Isn't there one as part of a show in Vegas as well?

Sheridan :-)


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1066 Saxon peasant
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Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com> wrote
>On Tuesday 08 March 2005 7:43 am, Susannah9810@aol.com wrote:
>> My daughter is to play a Saxon peasant in a school production of the Norman
>> invasion for her 5th grade social studies class.
>
>[snip]
>
>> The teacher says to just "cut holes for arms & head in a sheet & sew up
>> the sides & put a dark vest on over it," but that chills my historic
>> sensibilities to the bone.  Are there any articles in her 18c wardrobe that
>>  could be adapted?
>
>[snip]
>
>
> In period, such tunics would beAlthough I have never seen evidence of aprons
>being worn by Anglo-Saxon women or girls, I don't think it would be terribly
>false to period for her to wear a white apron.  (Solid color aprons in colors
>other than white I've heard of for later in the Middle Ages, but I've never
>heard of any striped aprons in period.
>
Personally I would steer away from wearing an 18th century apron.  Would 
I be right in thinking this would be a front panel gathered on to a band 
to tie around the waist?  That is going to look very modern on a Saxon 
tunic, and I would say too neat for a peasant.  You have to have 
something better worth saving, to bother wearing an apron to protect it. 
I would just go with the t-tunic.

Jean
-- 
Jean Waddie
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Subject: [h-cost] The Six Wives of Henry Vlll
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I have put the photos from The Six Wives on my fotopic site, under "The Six 
Wives" collection.

http://suziclarke4384.fotopic.net/c461806.html

The photos are official BBC issue, done at the time for publicity. I wish 
someone had straightened the fronts of the dresses before they took them!! 
Note the lave sprayed on to imitate brocade. Also the collar of state on 
Keith Michell - the belt buckles and odds and ends glued on to look like 
jewellery.

The sole designer was John Bloomfield, the maker of the wives' costumes, 
all of them, was Jean Hunnisett, who was employed by the BBC and worked, as 
far as I can remember, from home. I think there are some photos of her 
garden full of costumes, but I cannot find them right now. The patterns for 
some of these dresses can, of course, be found in  "Period Costume for 
Stage and Screen 1500-1800". (Published by Players Press).

Any more questions - I'll be happy to answer if I can.

Suzi
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1066 Saxon peasant
Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 15:55:36 -0500
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The linen shift would probably work as an underlayer, and over that she can 
put a plain T-tunic.
http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/beginners/FirstGarb.html
Saxon would have wide-ish sleeves, not fitted.

For a woman, the most appropriate for the period would probably be a veil, 
but a child could go by bareheaded or wearing a simple cap, such as this
http://www.arador.com/articles/armingcap.html
Search Google for biggin or arming cap, they're basically the same thing.

No separate skirts, no bodices, no vests. Just T-tunics. Very simple. 
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> Or how about would be the one costume type/time period that you have never 
> done but really want to do?

I want to do the dress Joséphine wears on the huge Napoleon coronation 
painting. Or any of her most "official" dresses. I'd like to find a good 
pattern for this, but the only things I found so far are the Folkwear dress, 
which is nice but doesn't have the fancy outer layers, or patterns by La 
Mode Bagatelle, which are a little too late for what I want to do. Or 
Patterns of Fashion, which are English rather than French. One day I'll 
figure it out.

I've been wanting to do a Cranach gown forever, and now Kass has a pattern 
out to do this, so maybe it can happen a little sooner than I thought.

Also, I want to do traditional Heian Japan, with their many, many layers of 
real silk. There's something about the idea of having so much silk on my 
body... 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] taffeta stays and embroidery
Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 16:03:47 -0500
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Bjarne, how do you calculate how much shrinking will happen when you bone 
the stays? They're fully boned, so they must shrink quite a bit? Did you 
make the pattern bigger, or did you just calculate it from the mockup? But 
if the mockup wasn't made of the same fabric, how do you know how much the 
real fabric will shrink?

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2005 6:34 AM
Subject: [h-cost] taffeta stays and embroidery


>
> Hi,
> I thoaght you would like to se the progress i make with the red taffeta
> stays. I have uploaded pictures so that the young lady i make them for can
> follow my work. As you know i spended the last 2 days making the bone
> channels, and only got to make one backpiece and one front piece. Today i
> have to rest a little, as i have a full time work to catch up tomorrow. 
> When
> i rest i love to embroider, and i also have a waistcoat going on, i 
> thoaght
> you would like to see.
> The stays are here:
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/chenillestumpwork.htm
> And the waistcoat embroidery here at the bottom :
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/setasilkpaint.htm
> Then there also is a boring job to do for me today: house cleaning
> aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!!!!!
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Regions VS Areas
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> I suppose you've been told 6 times by now, how about using the French
> words "provence", "région" or "département"?

Actually, it's "province", not Provence. Provence is a specific region in 
the South of France. Province is also what we call the "divisions" of 
Canada.

> For fun & useless trivia, "La Belle Provence" is Quebec.

"La Belle Province" is Quebec. Actually, this is where I live :-) "La Belle 
Province" is also the name of a fast-food chain around here. 
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Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 13:21:31 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE:Pirate Reenactment
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>>Bet you didn't know there was such a big Pirate contingency, Fran, other
>>than the "poly pirates" who run around the Ren Faires and say "Arrrgh" a
>>lot.  ;)

>I have some friends who rented a sailing ship for a trip around SF bay 
>years ago, to do sort of pirate reenactment.  They're less serious than 
>you, I think, but more of the wool-and-linen sort.  I wasn't able to 
>attend, dang.

There are two groups in the SF area, the non-poly one of which is found at:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BayPrivateer/


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 13:39:04 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE:Pirate Reenactment
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>Who owns them and how do you go about getting someone to let you use one?

Bay Privateers, started by one costumer and one used yacht dealer, have 
been making connections with various tall ships which visit the SF Bay or 
are home-ported here.  Many of our members are volunteers and docents at 
the San Francisco Maritime National Historic Park, where they learned some 
of their nautical skills.  A couple of members actually own sail 
boats.  One is a Sea Scout leader.  One is a re-enactor from someplace Back 
East, where he portrayed an 18th century doctor.

So once the connections have been made with the tall ships, we can offer to 
become useful crew members:  knotting and splicing, climbing the rigging 
and doing useful nautical things while up there, etc.  The 
costumer/founding member has set guidelines to keep our costumes looking 
historical for these outings, and there are costume workshops so we can all 
look like re-enactors, not poly-pirates.

Most of our activities, to date, have been crewing on other peoples' tall 
ships and rowing a reproduction of the launch the Bounty crew put Captain 
Blye into.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BayPrivateer/

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 18:01:12 -0500
From: "Elizabeth" <thebarefoot.contessa@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Six Wives of Henry Vlll
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Three words...Wow - Thank you!

Elizabeth
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 13, 2005 3:05 PM
Subject: [h-cost] The Six Wives of Henry Vlll


>
> I have put the photos from The Six Wives on my fotopic site, under "The
Six
> Wives" collection.
>
> http://suziclarke4384.fotopic.net/c461806.html
>
> The photos are official BBC issue, done at the time for publicity. I wish
> someone had straightened the fronts of the dresses before they took them!!
> Note the lave sprayed on to imitate brocade. Also the collar of state on
> Keith Michell - the belt buckles and odds and ends glued on to look like
> jewellery.
>
> The sole designer was John Bloomfield, the maker of the wives' costumes,
> all of them, was Jean Hunnisett, who was employed by the BBC and worked,
as
> far as I can remember, from home. I think there are some photos of her
> garden full of costumes, but I cannot find them right now. The patterns
for
> some of these dresses can, of course, be found in  "Period Costume for
> Stage and Screen 1500-1800". (Published by Players Press).
>
> Any more questions - I'll be happy to answer if I can.
>
> Suzi
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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--- Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz> wrote:

> Ah, fair enough.  But having made one or two things with poofy
> sleeves, 
> I think the "false puffs" theory doesn't stand up to the application
> of 
> Occam's razor (Occam's pinking shears?), at least not for the styles 
> I've made.


My sentiments exactly. :-)




Donna Bella Lucia da Verona - Innilgard, Lochac
©Any intellectual material in this message is copyright Anabella Wake (Bella Lucia da Verona)
 ***The MARCH Italian Showcase is now online!*** http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/yourgarb/showcase.htm

Find local movie times and trailers on Yahoo! Movies.
http://au.movies.yahoo.com
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Subject: [h-cost] More help needed - this time gloves!
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Sorry to rush - but I'm making 10 bustle gown ensembles by Easter and 
and rushing like mad - hardly even manage to fit in my computer fix 
these days! Anyways....
I'm urgently looking for black or white long fingerless gloves, 
preferably cotton, preferably low cost and able to be delivered to me 
before Easter. Can anyone recommend a supplier? We need them to go with 
the ballgowns - but a few of our dancers are also playing instruments 
when they're not dancing - so I though fingerless would be best. Also, 
to the elbow.
Also, does anyone know of a wholesale distributer of battenberg lace 
parasols? I've found a supplier in Hong Kong but they require an order 
of $500 minimum- too much for us.
Thanks ever so much, Aylwen

----------------------------------------------
Earthly Delights ~ music, dance & costumes
http://www.earthlydelights.com.au
----------------------------------------------

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] More help needed - this time gloves!
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>I'm urgently looking for black or white long fingerless gloves, preferably 
>cotton, preferably low cost and able to be delivered to me before Easter.

>Also, does anyone know of a wholesale distributer of battenberg lace parasols?

Try www.lacis.com

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net (Elena O'Tighearnaigh)
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] More help needed - this time gloves!
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 01:38:54 +0000
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I have a mediumish battenburg lace parasol.  I even know exactly where it is in my storage unit.  Would like a picture of it to see if you'd be able to use it?.

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> 
> >I'm urgently looking for black or white long fingerless gloves, preferably 
> >cotton, preferably low cost and able to be delivered to me before Easter. 
> 
> >Also, does anyone know of a wholesale distributer of battenberg lace parasols? 
> 
> Try www.lacis.com 
> 
> CarolynKayta Barrows 
> dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian 
> www.FunStuft.com 
> 
> //// \\\ 
> ////-@@\\\ 
> (((( 7 ))) 
> ((( <> )))) 
> ) (((((( 
> /----\ /---\)) 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net (Elena O'Tighearnaigh)
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] More help needed - this time gloves!
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 01:42:19 +0000
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I've found fingerless gloves at places like "Claire's" (a teen/gothic) kind of place in Seattle, WA.  It carries these kind of gloves especially for proms and dances. Which (as a happy circumstance) at this time of year, they seem to stock up on these kinds of things in time for proms and spring dances.  Sometimes they carry parasols...and other things of that nature

I hope this helps.
--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> Sorry to rush - but I'm making 10 bustle gown ensembles by Easter and 
> and rushing like mad - hardly even manage to fit in my computer fix 
> these days! Anyways.... 
> I'm urgently looking for black or white long fingerless gloves, 
> preferably cotton, preferably low cost and able to be delivered to me 
> before Easter. Can anyone recommend a supplier? We need them to go with 
> the ballgowns - but a few of our dancers are also playing instruments 
> when they're not dancing - so I though fingerless would be best. Also, 
> to the elbow. 
> Also, does anyone know of a wholesale distributer of battenberg lace 
> parasols? I've found a supplier in Hong Kong but they require an order 
> of $500 minimum- too much for us. 
> Thanks ever so much, Aylwen 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------- 
> Earthly Delights ~ music, dance & costumes 
> http://www.earthlydelights.com.au 
> ---------------------------------------------- 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
_______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun Mar 13 23:20:26 2005
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] More help needed - this time gloves!
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Thanks for the leads - I've ended up getting some from Finale - the 
ones I want they've got 2-for-1. Just hoping to get them before Easter 
now.
Thanks so much, Aylwen

PS - Forgot to mention I'm in Australia :o)))


On Monday, March 14, 2005, at 12:42 PM, Elena O'Tighearnaigh wrote:

> I've found fingerless gloves at places like "Claire's" (a teen/gothic) 
> kind of place in Seattle, WA.  It carries these kind of gloves 
> especially for proms and dances. Which (as a happy circumstance) at 
> this time of year, they seem to stock up on these kinds of things in 
> time for proms and spring dances.  Sometimes they carry parasols...and 
> other things of that nature
>
> I hope this helps.
> --
> Slan go foill
> Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri
>
> Emer's Needle Wares
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
>
>> Sorry to rush - but I'm making 10 bustle gown ensembles by Easter and
>> and rushing like mad - hardly even manage to fit in my computer fix
>> these days! Anyways....
>> I'm urgently looking for black or white long fingerless gloves,
>> preferably cotton, preferably low cost and able to be delivered to me
>> before Easter. Can anyone recommend a supplier? We need them to go 
>> with
>> the ballgowns - but a few of our dancers are also playing instruments
>> when they're not dancing - so I though fingerless would be best. Also,
>> to the elbow.
>> Also, does anyone know of a wholesale distributer of battenberg lace
>> parasols? I've found a supplier in Hong Kong but they require an order
>> of $500 minimum- too much for us.
>> Thanks ever so much, Aylwen
>>
>> ----------------------------------------------
>> Earthly Delights ~ music, dance & costumes
>> http://www.earthlydelights.com.au
>> ----------------------------------------------
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] The Six Wives of Henry Vlll
Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 22:43:34 -0600
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Note that the Anne Boleyn picture is backwards.
Jane Seymour's dress doesn't look like it fits her real well.

De

-----Original Message-----
I have put the photos from The Six Wives on my fotopic site, under "The Six
Wives" collection.

http://suziclarke4384.fotopic.net/c461806.html

The photos are official BBC issue, done at the time for publicity. I wish
someone had straightened the fronts of the dresses before they took them!!
Note the lave sprayed on to imitate brocade. Also the collar of state on
Keith Michell - the belt buckles and odds and ends glued on to look like
jewellery.

The sole designer was John Bloomfield, the maker of the wives' costumes,
all of them, was Jean Hunnisett, who was employed by the BBC and worked, as
far as I can remember, from home. I think there are some photos of her
garden full of costumes, but I cannot find them right now. The patterns for
some of these dresses can, of course, be found in  "Period Costume for
Stage and Screen 1500-1800". (Published by Players Press).

Any more questions - I'll be happy to answer if I can.

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] More help needed - this time gloves!
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You may want to checkout ebay for these items the prices are good. 

Brin

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Aylwen & John" <garden@earthlydelights.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 13, 2005 3:35 PM
Subject: [h-cost] More help needed - this time gloves!


Sorry to rush - but I'm making 10 bustle gown ensembles by Easter and 
and rushing like mad - hardly even manage to fit in my computer fix 
these days! Anyways....
I'm urgently looking for black or white long fingerless gloves, 
preferably cotton, preferably low cost and able to be delivered to me 
before Easter. Can anyone recommend a supplier? We need them to go with 
the ballgowns - but a few of our dancers are also playing instruments 
when they're not dancing - so I though fingerless would be best. Also, 
to the elbow.
Also, does anyone know of a wholesale distributer of battenberg lace 
parasols? I've found a supplier in Hong Kong but they require an order 
of $500 minimum- too much for us.
Thanks ever so much, Aylwen

----------------------------------------------
Earthly Delights ~ music, dance & costumes
http://www.earthlydelights.com.au
----------------------------------------------

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@iimetro.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] hoop storage?
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2005 21:40:57 +1100
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I do something similar but I use two ribbons (in case it became distorted by
hanging from just one point) I tie the ribbons into circles loop one end
over the hook of a coat-hanger then I pass it through the middle of the
hoops and loop the other end over the hook. Does that make sense?
Elizabeth


> Actually I collapse (so it is just concentric circles)  mine and tie a
> cord around it and hang them  in the closet at the end of the rod
> against a wall.  But another way which is period and is good for tot'n
> is to make a round bag!
>
> Sg
>
> sunshine_buchler@agilent.com wrote:
>
> >What do people do to store their hoops (the Elizabethan/Victorian bell
> >version, in specific)? Once upon a time I had instructions for how to
> >twist mine up to fold it, but after ~10 years of doing so, my hoop is
> >now rather lop-sided (but not in a useful elliptical way...sigh).
> >
> >Since I'm being fuzzy brained and can't decide what kind of hoop to use
> >with my newest project, I just acquired 2 more, but I need to figure out
> >a way to store them that will 1) fit in my apartment and 2) not distort
> >the hoops. What go the good people on this list do?
> > Thanks!!
> > -sunny
> >
> >
> >_______________________________________________
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> >
> >
> >
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@iimetro.com.au>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: 18th century 'bum roll'
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kass McGann" <historian@reconstructinghistory.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 13, 2005 6:02 AM
Subject: [h-cost] RE: 18th century 'bum roll'


> Elizabeth,
>
> You could certainly ignore this 'bumroll' thing altogether.  Many 18th
> century gowns were worn with multiple petticotes for fullness, but no
> bumrolls at all.  I honestly couldn't tell you if the 'bumroll' is a
> modern costumer's idea or if they really wore them in the 18th century.
> I'm going to have to track down that "cork" reference now and see where
> it comes from!  Panniers (side hoops) and round hoops, definitely.  But
> I can't think of a period picture of a bumroll, and we have a lot of
> period pictures of everything else a woman wore under her gown.
<snip>
I'm pretty sure I have seen period pictures of bumrolls for the regency
period, but I really haven't looked at 1780ish fashions until very recently.
I've often thought the 16th century costumers bumroll was based on the
Regency caricatures, the shape used is certainly more like the early 19th
century version than the late 16th century wheel shaped one.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole@iimetro.com.au

Mr. Speaker, I said the honourable member was a liar it is true and I am
sorry for it. The honourable member may place the punctuation where he
pleases.
Richard Brinsley Sheridan (1751-1816) British dramatist. On being asked to
apologise for calling a fellow MP a liar. Attrib.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:  Book review?
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A link from there led me to this, which is new to me. Anyone have any
comments about it?

Clothes of the Medieval World
by Vincent Douglas
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0872266699/

--robin

This is designed to be a children's book.  I carry it from time to time.  I haven't looked at it lately, but I recall it as being moderately accurate.  Mostly, it is a nice collection of color drawings in one place that covers most of the SCA period and is therefore useful for demos and utter newbies.

Janet

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] The Six Wives of Henry Vlll
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At 22:43 13/03/2005 -0600, you wrote:
>Note that the Anne Boleyn picture is backwards.
>Jane Seymour's dress doesn't look like it fits her real well.


The Anne Boleyn picture is as issued - evidently turned around by the 
printing. Like I said, I wish someone had straightened out the clothes 
before they took the photos. All the dresses look as though they could do 
with a good tug down at the waist - something a good dresser would have fixed!

Suzi


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1066 Saxon peasant
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 03:58:27 -0600
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You would probably be wanting either a underdress/shift with sleeves and
apron dress over it and a simple coif or two tunic dresses with the outer
one short/calf length and the sleeves would not be flared but straight and a
veil. For some reason I am vaguely remembering this last outfit as a Norman
style and not Anglos or Saxon.

Arian

-----Original Message-----
My daughter is to play a Saxon peasant in a school production of the Norman
invasion for her 5th grade social studies class.  This is not my period and
I
have not been able to find any online pix or references for what would be
appropriate for her to wear as a Saxon peasantwoman (plenty of knights &
nobles, tho).  Obviously we don't need to go over the top here, but where
can I
find some references with pix so I know remotely how to dress her?   The
teacher
says to just "cut holes for arms & head in a sheet & sew up  the sides & put
a
dark vest on over it," but that chills my historic  sensibilities to the
bone.  Are there any articles in her 18c wardrobe that  could be adapted?
She has
her plain white linen shift & brown  wool underpetticoat, a grey-blue
lightweight wool outer petticoat  (double-ties wrap around waist), a red &
white
resist print shortgown  (probably won't work!), a choice of either her blue
&
white  striped apron, or a plain white apron.  I have time to make other
articles
and a proper cap if I could find what one looks like --or would it  be a
headcloth of some sort?

Floundering,
Best regards,
Susannah

Susannah Eanes, Mantua Maker and Fine Tailoring
_www.virginvintage.com_ (http://www.virginvintage.com)

"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."  --William  Morris
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Subject: [h-cost] French 1630s male costume
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Hello

I am looking for advice from anyone who has made a
male 'cavalier' style costume of around 1630. While
authenticity may not be terribly important in this, it
has to look great. I'm happy to scale up patterns if
there are good ones in books - e.g. does Hunisett have
something appropriate? I suppose I would even consider
a pattern by the 'big 3' if it works :-)

Any warnings/advice about fabric choice would also be
v. greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance,

Katherine

Send instant messages to your online friends http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] French 1630s male costume
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At 10:27 14/03/2005 +0000, you wrote:
>Hello
>
>I am looking for advice from anyone who has made a
>male 'cavalier' style costume of around 1630. While
>authenticity may not be terribly important in this, it
>has to look great. I'm happy to scale up patterns if
>there are good ones in books - e.g. does Hunisett have
>something appropriate? I suppose I would even consider
>a pattern by the 'big 3' if it works :-)
>
>Any warnings/advice about fabric choice would also be
>v. greatly appreciated!
As I  don't use commercial patterns I cannot help with any suggestions in 
that direction. However, you can look at "Cut of Men's Clothes" by Norah 
Waugh for early clothes. Also Arnold has a doublet in her 1560-1620 book 
(and should have more when the last books get published  - whenever!)

You can also look at "Men's 17th and 18th Century Costume, Cut and Fashion" 
by R.I. Davis (Players Press). I think it is not as good as Waugh, but do 
look. There are no real cutting or making instructions however. Some of the 
later patterns don't always work well - the ones I've tried anyway. Ron was 
a tailor working for the theatrical costume house Angel's, so some of his 
costumes may be a bit theatrical - I haven't tried many of them, as I rely 
on Waugh!!

The picture shows a costume made from Waugh patterns

http://www.suziclarke.co.uk/viewimage.php?image=charles_i.jpg

Suzi


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>>> audreybmorin2@hotmail.com 13/03/2005 20:59:54 >>>
>> Or how about would be the one costume type/time period that you have never 
>> done but really want to do?

>I want to do the dress Joséphine wears on the huge Napoleon coronation 
>painting. Or any of her most "official" dresses.

I too would love an excuse to make a Regency gown - I adore the fashions of that era.

(Like others, I only received a few messages last week, but on returning to my computer this morning found hundreds!)

Kate Bunting
Librarian & 17c reenactor
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References: <9896E728-9418-11D9-9293-000393B11100@earthlydelights.com.au>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] More help needed - this time gloves!
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 07:13:23 -0500
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Just do a Google on gloves or formal gloves!!  I needed black opera gloves
last week and found many many sites who were offering the goods at a wide
range of costs.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Aylwen & John" <garden@earthlydelights.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 13, 2005 6:35 PM
Subject: [h-cost] More help needed - this time gloves!


> Sorry to rush - but I'm making 10 bustle gown ensembles by Easter and
> and rushing like mad - hardly even manage to fit in my computer fix
> these days! Anyways....
> I'm urgently looking for black or white long fingerless gloves,
> preferably cotton, preferably low cost and able to be delivered to me
> before Easter. Can anyone recommend a supplier? We need them to go with
> the ballgowns - but a few of our dancers are also playing instruments
> when they're not dancing - so I though fingerless would be best. Also,
> to the elbow.
> Also, does anyone know of a wholesale distributer of battenberg lace
> parasols? I've found a supplier in Hong Kong but they require an order
> of $500 minimum- too much for us.
> Thanks ever so much, Aylwen
>
> ----------------------------------------------
> Earthly Delights ~ music, dance & costumes
> http://www.earthlydelights.com.au
> ----------------------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Pirate reenactment
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Well, Fran, it's rather new as far as I can tell.  But the Pirate
Brethren email list is currently the most active list I'm on and all
we've been doing lately is talking about clothing -- did pirates really
wear headscarves, how often were sleeveless waistcoats worn, etc.  It's
new, but it's growing fast.  The biggest group of people who join us are
Rev War reenactors who are just tired of all the drilling they have to
do in the sun at events.  Some of our members still do Rev War and much
of the men's clothing isn't too different.

As Carol mentioned in another post, the Kalmar Nyckel is rentable and we
actually did so for a four hour bay cruise last October to celebrate the
40th birthdays of a number of our members.  Unfortunately we didn't get
enough pre-registration in time and didn't end up going.  But there are
smaller ships one can hire for a day cruise.

Regarding professional crews, these boats are all crewed professionally,
but many of our group have taken training on the ships and have been
volunteers on their crews.  Also a goodly number of our group are
experienced small-craft sailors in the modern world.  So you don't have
to worry about us being a bunch of "lubbers".  ;)

But pirate reenactment isn't just about being on the water.  It's about
the whole period that we call "The Golden Age of Piracy" -- 1680s-1720s.
At many of our events, we portray how pirates would have acted in port
(or how the people in port would have interacted with them).  I myself
do not portray a pirate but a Procuress in Covent Garden in London,
renting my "seamstresses' services" to those who can afford them.  =)

I hope that clarifies things a little more.

Kass

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But how much of that is there really?  Or do people mostly do the 
tavern/beach scenarios?  Are you involved in them?  I haven't seen 
pirate reenactment discussed much in costuming egroups.

As someone said, I've seen the polypirates but have not thought of them 
as a large reenactment movement.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

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Subject: [h-cost] RE: 18th century bumrolls
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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 11:54:10 EST
From: AlbertCat@aol.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century bum rolls
To: h-costume@indra.com
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In a message dated 3/13/2005 10:13:03 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

I am sorry that i dissapoint you here, but there are many evidents that
they existed
>>>>
I was gonna say all that.
>>>>
Sorry, Bjarne and AlbertCat.  None of those references proves to me that
the 18th century bumrolls looked like those crescent- or sausage-shaped
bumrolls worn in the early 17th century.  I know they used the word
"Bum" or "false rump" or "cork bum", but I still don't see any evidence
of the bumrolls being the sausage shape.  That does make the wrong shape
for wear under a polonaise.
>>>> 
And the bum rolls are not necessarily for a Polonaise but for the
silhouette that came up right after that.
>>>>
Now THAT I agree with!

Kass

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Subject: [h-cost] RE: French 1630s male costume
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Katherine,

May I be of assistance?  Look here:
http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/patterns/cavalier.html 

Everything but the Soldier's Coat (RH110) is appropriate for the 1630s
in England and France.

Kass

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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 10:27:13 +0000 (GMT)
From: katherine sanders <katherinejsanders@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: [h-cost] French 1630s male costume
To: h-costume@net.indra.com
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Hello

I am looking for advice from anyone who has made a
male 'cavalier' style costume of around 1630. While
authenticity may not be terribly important in this, it
has to look great. I'm happy to scale up patterns if
there are good ones in books - e.g. does Hunisett have
something appropriate? I suppose I would even consider
a pattern by the 'big 3' if it works :-)

Any warnings/advice about fabric choice would also be
v. greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance,

Katherine


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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 01 Mar 2005 22:45:18 -0500
From: david webb 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] dress styles in 18th century-Brunswick image
To: Historical Costume 
Message-ID: <4.3.0.20050301221838.00adff00@pop.vaxxine.com>
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On page 175 of Stella Tillyard's "Aristocrats: the illustrated companion to 
the television series" there is a reproduction of a painting of Lady Mary 
Fox in a grey/blue? Brunswick c. 1767. The 18th century version of the 
"hoodie"! Self-fabric trimming is as equally elaborate as in the other 
styles of the period, such as the sack.

I can't see this variation ever becoming popular at North American 
reenactments when most events take place in the summer when the average 
temperature is over 90 F. or 30 C. It's high-necked - higher than the 
version in Bjarne's picture - up to the base of the throat - so the wearer 
couldn't show off "the girls", which appears to be a preoccupation with 
many ladies. The painting definitely shows the line of the top of stays 
underneath, though.

The costumes for the series seem mediocre and lots of the factoids are 
wrong, but some excellent images in the book if you find it in the 
remainder bin.

Sheridan Alder

At 10:08 AM 2/28/2005 +0100, you wrote:
>Hi.
>Here are two examples of different dresses. The first is a Brunnswick 
>dress. Some people claim that a Brunswick only is a jacket, but it is a 
>dress also. This type was very popular in Denmark and Germany, perhaps 
>because it would have ben very nice warm for winter use.Next looks like a 
>francaise dress, but i dont believe it has any pleats in the back. I think 
>it would have a pointed v in the back of the bodice.
>Other types are:
>Bodice and skirt in many variations, included paniers.
>Round Gown, wich looks like a bodice and skirt, but it is a 1 piece garment.
>Piemontaise wich is a dress that looks like a francaise dress, only the 
>pleats in the back hangs free.
>Mantua and skirt.
>One type also is a seperate skirt and a bodice with tabs wich rest on the 
>skirt edge. Tabs are not boned, but soft.
>Closed with a stomacher.
>But i think why people think there are very few types, are that only few 
>are reproduced. People love the pleats in a francaise dress and makes it 
>frequently.
>One thing i was very dissapointed with was the film Aristocrats where 
>nearly every dress in the start was a francaise dress.
>
>Here are the examples:
>http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/pusling1.htm
>
>
>Bjarne
>
>
>
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume




This is Mia in Charlotte

Actually, I'm going to TRY to reproduce ( or use it as inspiration) That dress from the picture.  There is something about the red sripped ribbons that turns me on.  Will let you know how it turns out.  and Try to post a picture

The only other Brunswick I know of in the colonies is a reproduction in the dressmakers shop in Williamsburg (that one is a black or dark blue checked silk taffeta (it looks like).  I am in the south, where the research is not so cutting edge as up in the north.

I do need some suggestions about that butterfly-ish pinner-ish cap she is wearing.  Bjarne, andy suggestions as to shape and size?


		
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Hi folks - just a note to let you know that I filter and automatically 
delete any messages that come with a subject line like

Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 141

Please change your subject lines.
Thanks,
Mari

Mari Stewart
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Questions about Elizabethan 
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Does anyone know much about elizabethan costuming I, really want to make her pelican dress. These will be a while in the making I will be doing them from skin out.... but I do have some questions about this dress before I start...
 
Thanks in advance.
 
Satine

		
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Subject: [h-cost] Hoop Skirt Problems
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I am still in the process of making the Civil War Ballgown and am having 
some problems. Should the pleats fold from the center front to the back? Or 
from the back towards the front? It's hard to tell in the picture and I 
don't seem to have good luck with pleats.Also I would like to know what type 
of hoop I should get? I have one that is 4 boned but I started the dress in 
bridal satin so of course yes it is heavy, so should I find a differrent 
hoop? Or maybe find a light weight wire to send through the hoop?I am not 
sure which hoop was used in the picture they took for the front of the 
pattern. And if you know where I might buy one I would do that as soon as 
possible. Where could I get the same type of (posies) flowers that you used 
on the pleats at the bottom of the overskirt? Are the posies silk flowers 
or?
I hope that this turns out. It looks good so far. I am a little short so the 
hem will be interesting but without the right hoop I am sure to have a few 
problems with it. If anyone can help me it would be greatly appreciated. 
Time is running out. I still have a lot to do, but I am sure that it will 
all come together.

Mary


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Mar 14 11:09:28 2005
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Questions about Elizabethan
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Questions like?  Here are some notes on the one I made recently...  
http://www.saragrace.net/3E_3_QEW_Artwork.html
Back up and talk a look at the rest of the diary...maybe some of the 
"articles"  on construction will help and then if you have further 
questions....ask away!

Sg

Lady Satine wrote:

>Does anyone know much about elizabethan costuming I, really want to make her pelican dress. These will be a while in the making I will be doing them from skin out.... but I do have some questions about this dress before I start...
> 
>Thanks in advance.
> 
>Satine
>
>		
>---------------------------------
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> Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site! 
>_______________________________________________
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>  
>
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Mar 14 11:25:56 2005
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Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 08:24:52 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Questions about Elizabethan 
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Satine,
There are many on this list that are expert in Elizabethan-era 
clothing.  Do you have specific questions?
Joan

At 07:48 AM 3/14/2005 -0800, you wrote:

>Does anyone know much about elizabethan costuming I, really want to make 
>her pelican dress. These will be a while in the making I will be doing 
>them from skin out.... but I do have some questions about this dress 
>before I start...
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Satine

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] pattern software question
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Megan M." <megan@benchite.com>
> Does anyone here use Dress Shop or Pattern Master by Wild Ginger?  I am
> thinking of getting one of the software packages to save altering patterns
> and the headache it is for me, but am wondering if anyone can help me
> compare them, or has experience with them.  You can reply off list if you
> wish.  Thanks.
> -Megan


Could someone reply ON-list as well? I'd be interested, and surely I can't 
be the only one!

-E House 

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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 07:04:37 -0500
From: "Kass McGann" 
Subject: [h-cost] RE:Pirate Reenactment
To: 
Message-ID: <000b01c527c4$d67c22a0$796453d8@Kass>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Sure. I am involved in Pirate reenactment. It is the reenactment of
the Golden Age of Piracy (1680s-1720s). Mostly we're a group of Rev War
reenactors who are also into period seamanship. So one day when we were
sick of drilling in the sun in July, we decided we'd rather be lawless
criminals. And the Pirate Brethren were born. We kitted ourselves out
in late 17th/18th century clothing and accoutrements, and we do events
where we talk about what real pirates were like in the Golden Age of
Piracy (I think, actually, that we've forbidden the word "Arrrrgh" from
our vocabulary!). We do a variety of evening in the Mid-Atlantic
states, everything from living history timelines to Renaissance Faires.

Here's a link to my group:
http://www.piratebrethren.com/ 

I found out this year that Pirate Reenactment is so popular throughout
the country (even in land-locked states!) that this autumn I am planning
on producing a line of patterns for the Golden Age of Piracy for men and
women. I also volunteer at Pennsbury Manor http://pennsbury.org and
their constant complaint is that there is no source of clothing for the
turn of the 18th century. So I will be producing patterns later in the
year to fill this need.

Bet you didn't know there was such a big Pirate contingency, Fran, other
than the "poly pirates" who run around the Ren Faires and say "Arrrgh" a
lot. ;)

Kass

Reconstructing History Patterns
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-----Original Message-----
Message: 1
Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2005 11:01:16 -0800
From: Lavolta Press 
Subject: [h-cost] Pirate Reenactment
To: h-costume@indra.com
Message-ID: <42333C7C.8070502@lavoltapress.com>
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Does anyone on this list costume for "pirate reenactment" and if so what

is it?

Thanks,

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com

This Mia in Charlotte, NC again.

Funny you should mention Pirates.  HM 64th of foot was just invited this weekend to a piratin' festivat in Goergetown, SC.  I have no other information than that it will be the end of June, the same weekend as Williamsburg's Under the Redcoat, June 24-26.  the 64th goes to the UTR event (they pay us) so the Pirating in SC event is right out for us.  I will send more information if I hear anything.


		
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Yours was exactly the research I was looking for! So wonderful!!!

Respectfully, Angelique


		
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> 
> 
> The picture shows a costume made from Waugh patterns
> 
> http://www.suziclarke.co.uk/viewimage.php?image=charles_i.jpg
> 


Mmmmn, yummy!

It's been ages since I touched this period, and I used the Holkeboer 
book... 'Patterns for Theatrical Costume' I think it was, since it was 
about the only thing in print at the time. I had good looking results. 
Wish I had pictures.



 >Any warnings/advice about fabric choice would also be
 >v. greatly appreciated!

I can't think of anything specific to this outfit, just the usual 
warnings to make sure your layers breathe. I remember that it was the 
trimming that really made the outfit, I spent a fortune (to me at the 
time) on 'gold'-wrapped 'pearl' buttons and gold braid and moire ribbons.



Dawn


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Mar 14 13:46:14 2005
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for 16th century painting
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Thanks for the reply.
I have been asked to recreate this dress.
Actually 12 of them..
They won't be historical accurate because they want modern fit and no 
corsets.
I think the 16th century sheakspeare in love dress pattern from 
Simplicity will do.
I am thinking of making different type of sleeves than the ones in the 
painting.
I find these a bit weird for this type of dress and difficult to make.
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Unknown.jpg


Wicked Frau wrote:

> You are not going to believe this, but I just wrote an inquiry to the 
> Chatsworth house where this painting lives.  The reply is attached.  I 
> have been given permission to have a better black and white picture 
> and may be ordering the transparency.  (In a later note, "They" 
> decided to not sell me a slide.).   If you want to go in on the 
> transparency, contact me off list.  ;}
>
> Sg
>
> Dear Saragrace Knauf,
>
> Thank you for your email.
>
> The painting is no longer thought to be of Mary Queen of Scots after a 
> pectoral cross that had been overpainted onto the original painting 
> was removed in a 1950s cleaning. There is little doubt that the 
> painting had been altered in order to sell it to a former owner as 
> Mary Queen of Scots.  It is now attributed to Alonso Sanchez Coello 
> (1531/2-1588)?
> Please can you tell me why you want a 35mm slide?  These are usually 
> only spplied for lecturing purposes.  If you are wishing to reproduce 
> the image in a publication I can hire you a 5 x 4" colour transparency 
> for a three month period at £35 (+VAT).  In addition there is a 
> reproduction fee dependant on usage.
> Regarding a listing of the paintings at Chatswowrth, you can apply for 
> a list of Pictures from the Photo Survey Dept. of the Courtauld 
> Institute of Art, the Strand, London. We also sell a list of paintings 
> which hang on the public route of the house.
>
> My colleague, Charles Noble, Keeper of the Collection, 
> (collection@chatsworth.org) would like you to contact him if you have 
> comments to make about the dress shown in the portrait. Is it Spanish, 
> for instance, or can it be tied to a specific nationality?
> I look forward to hearing from you in due course.
>
> Yours sincerely,
>
> Diane Naylor
>
>
> --------------------------
> Diane P. Naylor (Mrs)
> Photo Librarian
> Chatsworth
> Bakewell
> Derbyshire DE45 1PP
> Tel: +44 (0)1246 565300
> Fax: +44 (0)1246 565318
>
>
> http://www.chatsworth.org
> The views expressed in this message are those of the individual sender 
> and therefore the Trustees of the Chatsworth Settlement cannot accept 
> legal or contractual responsibility for its content.
>
> This message, and any attachments with it, are confidential. If you 
> have received this message in error, please notify the sender and 
> destroy your copies of the message and any attachments.
>
>
> Deredere Galbraith wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>>
>> I've got a black and white picture of a dress and I would like to see 
>> it in colour and to have some more information of it.
>> Is there anyone who knows more about this painting?
>> http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Unknown.jpg
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Flemish cap
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Hi all--

I was wondering if anyone knew of a pattern or even a source for buying any of the roundish caps one sees on peasants in Breughel paintings. I'm making a 16th-century Flemish peasant costume for my husband, but the only hats that seem to be available, even in pattern form, are flat caps or cavalier hats. I suppose a flat cap will do, but I'd rather make one of the more rounded ones. I can draw my own patterns for most things, but I've never made a full-sized hat before (only doll hats, and then none with the rounded crown like these caps have). 

Thanks for any help you can offer.

--Tea Rose
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Thank you so much to all who responded both on and off - list.  We  will be 
working on this for another couple of weeks so if anyone has anymore to  add, I 
will be happy to receive it.  Plus, I understand this will be a  yearly event 
--some of the kids will be Saxon, some Norman, so any Norman info  may be 
applicable next year.  Send it on!
 
Thanks again,
Susannah
 
Susannah Eanes, Mantua Maker and Fine Tailoring
_www.virginvintage.com_ (http://www.virginvintage.com) 
 
"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."  --William  Morris
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1066 Saxon peasant
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> or two tunic dresses with the outer
> one short/calf length

Not sure about that, I'm still wondering if it isn't an invention by our 
dear Victorian-era friends. In any case, if you go for the shorter outer 
dress, make sure you have a coloured underdress under it. You're not 
supposed to see the white linen underdress.

> and the sleeves would not be flared but straight

But not tight.

> and a
> veil.

Yes, but a child could easily go without. 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Flemish cap
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Can you knit?  I've seen some which are knit and then felted....

TeaRoseS@aol.com wrote:

>Hi all--
>
>I was wondering if anyone knew of a pattern or even a source for buying any of the roundish caps one sees on peasants in Breughel paintings. I'm making a 16th-century Flemish peasant costume for my husband, but the only hats that seem to be available, even in pattern form, are flat caps or cavalier hats. I suppose a flat cap will do, but I'd rather make one of the more rounded ones. I can draw my own patterns for most things, but I've never made a full-sized hat before (only doll hats, and then none with the rounded crown like these caps have). 
>
>Thanks for any help you can offer.
>
>--Tea Rose
>_______________________________________________
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>
>  
>
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>     One I know of specifically is the Kalmar Nyckel, which is owned (was
>commisioned to be built) by the State of Delaware.  They have used it
>for the Howard Pyle festival, although I don't know how much the
>pirate reenactors got to play on it.
>  
>
>We used the boat as a staging area. The guys (pirate types) rowed ashore from it and we (the colonial militia/Maritime Regt.)met them and clashed with them on the beach. Of course, since it was the Howard Pyle Pirate festival, we were the bad guys and got our butts kicked. Fortunately, I (the Ships Surgeon) got to work on the remains strewn all over the beach...One of the other nice things is that the historical ships (Kalmar, Half Moon, Maryland Dove) usually have training/volunteer programs that allow folks to work with the crew. The Dove and the Half Moon have much better clothing (historical) for their crew, which is a real shame, since, a few years back, I gave the Kalmar info about the clothing found aboard the Vasa to help outfit the crew. The captain, bless him, still wears a red headscarf and a renfaire black suede vest (at least he did when I last saw him...)   Arrrrg!   Mike T.
>  
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Flemish cap
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On Monday 14 March 2005 2:46 pm, TeaRoseS@aol.com wrote:
> Hi all--
>
> I was wondering if anyone knew of a pattern or even a source for buying any
> of the roundish caps one sees on peasants in Breughel paintings. I'm making
> a 16th-century Flemish peasant costume for my husband, but the only hats
> that seem to be available, even in pattern form, are flat caps or cavalier
> hats. I suppose a flat cap will do, but I'd rather make one of the more
> rounded ones. I can draw my own patterns for most things, but I've never
> made a full-sized hat before (only doll hats, and then none with the
> rounded crown like these caps have).

You mean, for men.  I'm not sure which shape you mean, but have you checked 
out this site?

http://rameset.com/hats-garb.htm

They are fairly inexpensive and have a fair range of Renaissance style hats.  
Maybe one of them will be a good enough match for what you're looking for.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 21:23:33 -0800 (PST)
From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
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....a _pantograph_to copy and enlarge the patterns out
of Hunniset or Holekeboers books?
 Was it successful? I know they all show you griding,
but some of us are "grid impared" and I thought
perhaps this little ancient machine could be utilized
for my needs.
 If you've ever use one for this purpose,could you
please tell me how well it worked and if you had any
problems with the idea. Also what size you used ,as
they come in 13' to 24".
 thanks, 
 Melody



		
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Questions like as one is looking at the pelican portrait.. is she waring a bracelet on her upper arn te eright arm it looks like a piece of jewelry she does not appear to have on on the upper arm that I can tell., and waht is that thing hanging down behind her right arm it appeard to have a matching one over her left forearm. (I have issues with my compuuter, I was not able to bookmark the main site. Please send me the link so I can look at previous posts and do some research to possibly Thansk a million.... 
 
Satine.
Ps I really like your site very informative Thank you ! 

 

		
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From: Lady Satine <seamuslady@yahoo.com>
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Thank you Joan,
 
I am new to elizabethan clothing, To be honest I have heard way too many horror stories of elizabethan and sewing machine fights to try it until now. I donot nkow where to begin my research. I am in love with the  Style of the Pelican dress... and all that beadwork and Those pearls... I am just plain lost as to where to beging this dress. Ideally I would like to have the complete outfit. from undergarments to headpiece. ( I have a huge Pearled Fleur dy lis pendant my mother gave me as a wedding present,  instead of the Pelican for I am not a peer and do NOT wish to offend anyone...Any suggestions on how to start or what to start with as a begingin woudl be greatly appreciated.
 
 I appreciate everyones  time and patience and understanding with me. I would love to see Dress diaries if anyone has them and pictures of completed Pieces, Thank you again
 
Satine 

Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net> wrote:
Satine,
There are many on this list that are expert in Elizabethan-era 
clothing. Do you have specific questions?
Joan

At 07:48 AM 3/14/2005 -0800, you wrote:

>Does anyone know much about elizabethan costuming I, really want to make 
>her pelican dress. These will be a while in the making I will be doing 
>them from skin out.... but I do have some questions about this dress 
>before I start...
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Satine

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Always start from the inside out.
Fhirst make the chemise, than a corset.
I love the corset in Janet Arnolds patterns of fashion.
http://www.deredere.dds.nl/16thcent/16woman/16thcent_dress/16thcent_dress.html
I made it from linnen and reads as boning.
Than a hoopskirt. Make it attachable to the corset. I find that very 
comfortable.
And it has to end about 6 inches above the ground.
Than you won't trip over it and the skirts will still ly nice over it.
Than the parlet. I am not sure if the sleeaves are attached to the 
parlet or to the chemise sinse they have the same embroidery.
Than underskirt and dress.
The hanging parts look like they are what fhirst open hanging sleeves 
were but now are only strips of decoration hanhing from armhole.

The most important thing is, take your time!
Don't rush it the firsth time.
Make the dress fhirst in cheap fabric.
Then wear it to an event and see how it feels and looks while wearing it.
That helped me a lot to get some of the not so nice parts out of the 
pattern.

Good luck with making it.



Lady Satine wrote:

>Questions like as one is looking at the pelican portrait.. is she waring a bracelet on her upper arn te eright arm it looks like a piece of jewelry she does not appear to have on on the upper arm that I can tell., and waht is that thing hanging down behind her right arm it appeard to have a matching one over her left forearm. (I have issues with my compuuter, I was not able to bookmark the main site. Please send me the link so I can look at previous posts and do some research to possibly Thansk a million.... 
> 
>Satine.
>Ps I really like your site very informative Thank you ! 
>
> 
>
>		
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2005 11:51 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pattern software question


> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Megan M." <megan@benchite.com>
>> Does anyone here use Dress Shop or Pattern Master by Wild Ginger?  I am
>> thinking of getting one of the software packages to save altering 
>> patterns
>> and the headache it is for me, but am wondering if anyone can help me
>> compare them, or has experience with them.  You can reply off list if you
>> wish.  Thanks.
>> -Megan
>
>
> Could someone reply ON-list as well? I'd be interested, and surely I can't 
> be the only one!
>
> -E House

You're not! I am interested as well.

Laurensa
>

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Can you tell I am on vacation this morning?

>
> http://www.6URL.com/DVH
>
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>
> Can you tell I am on vacation this morning?
>
> >
> > http://www.6URL.com/DVH
> >

Cool!  Is there any information on painter, subject, and school?

thanks,
Jerusha

-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Botany Department, University of Tennessee
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Check this combo out!
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Beautiful!  and good for you :)
 
Enjoy!
 
Chris G.

Wicked Frau <wickedfrau@earthlink.net> wrote:
Can you tell I am on vacation this morning?

>
> http://www.6URL.com/DVH
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Check this combo out!
References: <424625ED@webmail.utk.edu>
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Oh, good point...

Portrait of a lady

1536

Master A.W. (16th century)

Oil on panel

Height: 77.1 cm; Width: 60.5 cm

Inscription
Inscription, within image, inscribed on one of the sitter's rings:
/IHS/
Inscription, within image, upper left:
/A.W.
PINGEBAT 1536/

Acquisition
Lee of Fareham, Arthur Hamilton (1st Viscount); bequest; 1947
P.1947.LF.246

Copyright: © Courtauld Institute of Art Gallery, London



The site this comes from is
http://www.artandarchitecture.org.uk/
I did a search on Paintings from 1500-1600.  Several in there I had not 
seen.

Susan Farmer wrote:

>>Can you tell I am on vacation this morning?
>>
>>    
>>
>>>http://www.6URL.com/DVH
>>>
>>>      
>>>
>
>Cool!  Is there any information on painter, subject, and school?
>
>thanks,
>Jerusha
>
>
>  
>
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thanks!

Jerusha (going to cruise for paintings .....)

-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Botany Department, University of Tennessee
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium

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Smile! um okay, Sneer! :)

De

-----Original Message-----

Can you tell I am on vacation this morning?

>
> http://www.6URL.com/DVH
>


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http://www.margospatterns.com/mainframe.htm

http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/patterns/elizabethan.html

These two sites have patterns for undergarments and the former has an
accessories pattern and gown pattern.
Both these women have done their research.

First and foremost the corset MUST fit right for the outfit to fit comfort
ability. DO NOT make the undergarments out of polyester or other non
breathable material, especially for those is the warmer climates. Linen is
number one choice followed by Linen/cotton blend and then cotton. Not
everyone has access or the money to get linen.

The most recommend Janet Arnold's Pattern of Fashion c.1560 -1620.

De

-----Original Message-----
Thank you Joan,

I am new to elizabethan clothing, To be honest I have heard way too many
horror stories of elizabethan and sewing machine fights to try it until now.
I donot nkow where to begin my research. I am in love with the  Style of the
Pelican dress... and all that beadwork and Those pearls... I am just plain
lost as to where to beging this dress. Ideally I would like to have the
complete outfit. from undergarments to headpiece. ( I have a huge Pearled
Fleur dy lis pendant my mother gave me as a wedding present,  instead of the
Pelican for I am not a peer and do NOT wish to offend anyone...Any
suggestions on how to start or what to start with as a begingin woudl be
greatly appreciated.

 I appreciate everyones  time and patience and understanding with me. I
would love to see Dress diaries if anyone has them and pictures of completed
Pieces, Thank you again



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Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2005 19:25:37 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Check this combo out!
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Ooo!  That's a really clear example of a partlet as a separate 
over-garment, just like a shawl.  Nice.

Jean


Wicked Frau <wickedfrau@earthlink.net> wrote
>Oh, good point...
>
>Portrait of a lady
>
>1536
>
>Master A.W. (16th century)
>
>Oil on panel
>
>Height: 77.1 cm; Width: 60.5 cm
>
>Inscription
>Inscription, within image, inscribed on one of the sitter's rings:
>/IHS/
>Inscription, within image, upper left:
>/A.W.
>PINGEBAT 1536/
>
>Acquisition
>Lee of Fareham, Arthur Hamilton (1st Viscount); bequest; 1947
>P.1947.LF.246
>
>Copyright: © Courtauld Institute of Art Gallery, London
>
>
>
>The site this comes from is
>http://www.artandarchitecture.org.uk/
>I did a search on Paintings from 1500-1600.  Several in there I had not 
>seen.
>
>Susan Farmer wrote:
>
>>>Can you tell I am on vacation this morning?
>>>
>>>
>>>>http://www.6URL.com/DVH
>>>>
>>>>
>>
>>Cool!  Is there any information on painter, subject, and school?
>>
>>thanks,
>>Jerusha
>>
>>
>>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Mar 15 14:37:04 2005
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1066 Saxon peasant
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For the classic Norman look (to distinguish from Saxon) you want to make 
the sleeves very wide at the cuff, skirt very flared, and add a double 
girdle - a long cord or woven belt, start by placing the centre at the 
front of the waist, take it round and cross at the back, bring back 
round to the front, tie low on the belly and let the ends hang almost to 
the floor.  Do hair in two long braids if you can, with a light fluttery 
oval veil.  Think pre-Raphaelite Camelot pictures - obviously they're 
romanticised, but the overall shape is fairly accurate.

Jean


Susannah9810@aol.com wrote
>Thank you so much to all who responded both on and off - list.  We  will be
>working on this for another couple of weeks so if anyone has anymore to 
>add, I
>will be happy to receive it.  Plus, I understand this will be a  yearly event
>--some of the kids will be Saxon, some Norman, so any Norman info  may be
>applicable next year.  Send it on!
>
>Thanks again,
>Susannah
>
>Susannah Eanes, Mantua Maker and Fine Tailoring
>_www.virginvintage.com_ (http://www.virginvintage.com)
>
>"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."  --William  Morris
>_______________________________________________
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Check this combo out!
Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2005 13:55:24 -0600
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The black thingy on the shoulders is called something else, not a partlet.
The high collared white smocked thingy underneath the black thingy is a
partlet.
Does someone remember what the black thingy is called? My memory is going
through a fogged valley.

De

-----Original Message-----
Ooo!  That's a really clear example of a partlet as a separate
over-garment, just like a shawl.  Nice.

Jean




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Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2005 12:15:14 -0800
From: Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Check this combo out!
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Germans of the time call it a gollar.
LynnD


On Tue, 15 Mar 2005 13:55:24 -0600, otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
> The black thingy on the shoulders is called something else, not a partlet.
> The high collared white smocked thingy underneath the black thingy is a
> partlet.
> Does someone remember what the black thingy is called? My memory is going
> through a fogged valley.
> 
> De
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> Ooo!  That's a really clear example of a partlet as a separate
> over-garment, just like a shawl.  Nice.
> 
> Jean
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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From: Lady Satine <seamuslady@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Questions about Elizabethan 
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Thank you! to everybody for your help! I have been in contact with a ldays about an hr away from me who does Elizabethan and she is wonderful to help me with the COrset so I get it right the first time. I will post updates and as more questions when they come up! 
 
Thanks again Everyone!
Satine

otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
http://www.margospatterns.com/mainframe.htm

http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/patterns/elizabethan.html

These two sites have patterns for undergarments and the former has an
accessories pattern and gown pattern.
Both these women have done their research.

First and foremost the corset MUST fit right for the outfit to fit comfort
ability. DO NOT make the undergarments out of polyester or other non
breathable material, especially for those is the warmer climates. Linen is
number one choice followed by Linen/cotton blend and then cotton. Not
everyone has access or the money to get linen.

The most recommend Janet Arnold's Pattern of Fashion c.1560 -1620.

De

-----Original Message-----
Thank you Joan,

I am new to elizabethan clothing, To be honest I have heard way too many
horror stories of elizabethan and sewing machine fights to try it until now.
I donot nkow where to begin my research. I am in love with the Style of the
Pelican dress... and all that beadwork and Those pearls... I am just plain
lost as to where to beging this dress. Ideally I would like to have the
complete outfit. from undergarments to headpiece. ( I have a huge Pearled
Fleur dy lis pendant my mother gave me as a wedding present, instead of the
Pelican for I am not a peer and do NOT wish to offend anyone...Any
suggestions on how to start or what to start with as a begingin woudl be
greatly appreciated.

I appreciate everyones time and patience and understanding with me. I
would love to see Dress diaries if anyone has them and pictures of completed
Pieces, Thank you again



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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Mar 16 04:07:53 2005
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: French 1630s male
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Thank you all very much for the advice (and I think
'your' outfit looks fabulous Suzi!) on the Cavalier
style.

I am getting hold of library copies of both Waugh's
Cut of Men's Clothes as well as PoF for the
appropriate era, and will report back - I think the
deadline on this one isn't til June and there are
rather more pressing jobs in the queue, but I have to
start research and scaling now :-)

Thanks again,
Susan/Katherine

Send instant messages to your online friends http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: French 1630s male
Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2005 01:15:48 -0800
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Here's my contribution toward 1630's French costuming.  I used Waugh's Cut 
of Mens Clothing for the initial patterns, and have studied paintings and 
engravings of the period extensively.  I love this time and place.

http://home.earthlink.net/~moreplentyn/melusinescostumes/id5.html

Melusine

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "katherine sanders" <katherinejsanders@yahoo.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2005 1:06 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: French 1630s male


> Thank you all very much for the advice (and I think
> 'your' outfit looks fabulous Suzi!) on the Cavalier
> style.
>
> I am getting hold of library copies of both Waugh's
> Cut of Men's Clothes as well as PoF for the
> appropriate era, and will report back - I think the
> deadline on this one isn't til June and there are
> rather more pressing jobs in the queue, but I have to
> start research and scaling now :-)
>
> Thanks again,
> Susan/Katherine
>
> Send instant messages to your online friends http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Mar 16 11:04:13 2005
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <003a01c5289a$187e9270$626453d8@Kass>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: 18th century bumrolls
Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2005 17:02:35 +0100
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Dear Kass,
Dont want to make a war here, but suit yourself

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kass McGann" <historian@reconstructinghistory.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2005 2:31 PM
Subject: [h-cost] RE: 18th century bumrolls


> Message: 10
> Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 11:54:10 EST
> From: AlbertCat@aol.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century bum rolls
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Message-ID: <c.40bee7cf.2f65ca32@aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
> 
> 
> In a message dated 3/13/2005 10:13:03 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
> drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:
> 
> I am sorry that i dissapoint you here, but there are many evidents that
> they existed
>>>>>
> I was gonna say all that.
>>>>>
> Sorry, Bjarne and AlbertCat.  None of those references proves to me that
> the 18th century bumrolls looked like those crescent- or sausage-shaped
> bumrolls worn in the early 17th century.  I know they used the word
> "Bum" or "false rump" or "cork bum", but I still don't see any evidence
> of the bumrolls being the sausage shape.  That does make the wrong shape
> for wear under a polonaise.
>>>>> 
> And the bum rolls are not necessarily for a Polonaise but for the
> silhouette that came up right after that.
>>>>>
> Now THAT I agree with!
> 
> Kass
> 
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Mar 16 11:18:48 2005
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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	<033201c52a08$be7faaf0$0300a8c0@boris>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: French 1630s male
Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2005 17:18:08 +0100
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Status: RO

Brava Brava Brava Brave.
Yuppie Yaeh
This is brilliant work!
I want to make this era two, sometime

Bjarne

I dont know if you have seen the portraits from this perios, they use many 
many strange shades of colours!!!

Bjarne

- Original Mesge ----- rom: "Carmen Beaudry" <moreplentyn@earthlink.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2005 10:15 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: French 1630s male


> Here's my contribution toward 1630's French costuming.  I used Waugh's Cut 
> of Mens Clothing for the initial patterns, and have studied paintings and 
> engravings of the period extensively.  I love this time and place.
>
> http://home.earthlink.net/~moreplentyn/melusinescostumes/id5.html
>
> Melusine
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "katherine sanders" <katherinejsanders@yahoo.co.uk>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2005 1:06 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] Re: French 1630s male
>
>
>> Thank you all very much for the advice (and I think
>> 'your' outfit looks fabulous Suzi!) on the Cavalier
>> style.
>>
>> I am getting hold of library copies of both Waugh's
>> Cut of Men's Clothes as well as PoF for the
>> appropriate era, and will report back - I think the
>> deadline on this one isn't til June and there are
>> rather more pressing jobs in the queue, but I have to
>> start research and scaling now :-)
>>
>> Thanks again,
>> Susan/Katherine
>>
>> Send instant messages to your online friends 
>> http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Check this combo out!
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Is it just my monitor or is the bottom of the 'black thingy' look a little 'funny'?

On my monitor it looks like the black item was either Photo Retouched, or it was painted on later.

I know that the site wouldn't photo retouch, so it has to be my monitor. 

<SIGH> what I wouldn't do to see it in person.........

Katheryne
who loves this time period pics with the collarbone area covered
<personal preference>


------Original Message ------
From: Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Check this combo out!
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>

On Tue, 15 Mar 2005 13:55:24 -0600, otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
> The black thingy on the shoulders is called something else, not a partlet.
> The high collared white smocked thingy underneath the black thingy is a
> partlet.
> Does someone remember what the black thingy is called? My memory is going through a fogged valley.
> De
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> Ooo!  That's a really clear example of a partlet as a separate over-garment, just like a shawl.  Nice. 
> Jean

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: 18th century bumrolls
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2005 5:02 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: 18th century bumrolls


> Dear Kass,
> Dont want to make a war here, but suit yourself
>
> Bjarne
>
Ill give you some examples.
Not with polonaise styles, but anglaise styles of the period.
Have some very pointed bodices, widh would not have the space for several 
skirts under.
Can you explain this?
I hate people who wants to be popular with claims that are not right. 
included an old topic we had on this list with wheel farthingales.
How would you obtain the very narrow front of a skirt in a polonaise, if you 
have several skirts underneathe.
Sorry about my language i dont have english but danish

Bjarne 


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> Brava Brava Brava Brave.
> Yuppie Yaeh
> This is brilliant work!
> I want to make this era two, sometime
>
> Bjarne
>
> I dont know if you have seen the portraits from this perios, they use many 
> many strange shades of colours!!!
>
> Bjarne

Oh, yes, I'm teaching a class on costuming from this era this weekend, and 
my slide show has over 200 images, most of them paintings.  The red outfit 
on my webpage is almost exactly the color of red I've found in a great many 
paintings.  The dress I'm working on right now is 2 of the rather peculiar 
pink shades that keep showing up....I managed to find linen in just the 
right shade.  I've also got a dress that's wide stripes of the olive/bronze 
green color.

Melusine 

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Subject: [h-cost] Costume Society of America Annual Symposium
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Dear List,
Just a reminder that the CSA Symposium will be in Philadelphia,  
Pennsylvania, USA, May 25-28, 2005.  New this year is the Living History  Showcase, 
Thursday, May 26, 5:30-7:00 p.m.
 
Show off your latest costume project and get valuable input from fellow  
costume enthusiasts.
CSA encourages all groups and individuals interpreting all cultures and  
periods to attend and share their projects in this non-juried event.  Find  out 
what other interpreters are doing and meet others with your interests.
 
This is open to all registered participants--one-day registrations are  
available in addition to the whole symposium package.  
 
Save on early registration, received by April 6; regular registration  closes 
May 11.
 
For more general symposium information, visit _www.costumesocietyamerica.com_ 
(http://www.costumesocietyamerica.com) 
 
For more information on the Living History Showcase, you can email me  
directly at
_annbwass@aol.com_ (mailto:annbwass@aol.com) 
 
Ann Wass
 
 
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Wow, Cathy, that's a great hat site! I feel like I should be able to make a hat on my own, but there are two or three of these which will do the trick nicely. Now if I can just persuade my husband to actually wear the funny hat...
 
Thanks for the other responses, on- and off-list, but I don't knit, unfortunately. 
 
And if anyone's interested, I found an English site that has really inexpensive period-replica spoons. I think I'm going to order one for Jon to wear in his hat, like in two of the Brueghel paintings. The site also has replica saint's badges and jewelry, and as far as I can tell, the prices are very good. It's http://www.pewterreplicas.com/ .
 
 
Tea Rose
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Flemish cap
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At 11:39 16/03/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>Wow, Cathy, that's a great hat site! I feel like I should be able to make 
>a hat on my own, but there are two or three of these which will do the 
>trick nicely. Now if I can just persuade my husband to actually wear the 
>funny hat...
>
>Thanks for the other responses, on- and off-list, but I don't knit, 
>unfortunately.
>
>And if anyone's interested, I found an English site that has really 
>inexpensive period-replica spoons. I think I'm going to order one for Jon 
>to wear in his hat, like in two of the Brueghel paintings. The site also 
>has replica saint's badges and jewelry, and as far as I can tell, the 
>prices are very good. It's http://www.pewterreplicas.com/ .


Some of the jewellery can be very heavy. Steve made jewels for a Henry Vlll 
I made, and they were beautiful, but being pewter they weighed down the 
sleeves. For replica Tudor jewellery in brass, I also recommend Anne at 
www.anniethepedlar.com  She made jewels for my Elizabeth l figure, and 
medieval belt ends and coronets for some Richard lll members.

Suzi


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Mar 16 13:24:05 2005
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <003a01c5289a$187e9270$626453d8@Kass>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: 18th century bumrolls
Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2005 19:23:06 +0100
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I really want to post a picture for you where a polonaise dress in the 
danish museum was exhibbitted  without a bum roll and it really is a poor 
sight without it!

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kass McGann" <historian@reconstructinghistory.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2005 2:31 PM
Subject: [h-cost] RE: 18th century bumrolls


> Message: 10
> Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 11:54:10 EST
> From: AlbertCat@aol.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] 18th century bum rolls
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Message-ID: <c.40bee7cf.2f65ca32@aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>
>
> In a message dated 3/13/2005 10:13:03 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:
>
> I am sorry that i dissapoint you here, but there are many evidents that
> they existed
>>>>>
> I was gonna say all that.
>>>>>
> Sorry, Bjarne and AlbertCat.  None of those references proves to me that
> the 18th century bumrolls looked like those crescent- or sausage-shaped
> bumrolls worn in the early 17th century.  I know they used the word
> "Bum" or "false rump" or "cork bum", but I still don't see any evidence
> of the bumrolls being the sausage shape.  That does make the wrong shape
> for wear under a polonaise.
>>>>>
> And the bum rolls are not necessarily for a Polonaise but for the
> silhouette that came up right after that.
>>>>>
> Now THAT I agree with!
>
> Kass
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 


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Wicked frau are you home right now?
I really need a talk!!!
 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Wicked Frau" <wickedfrau@earthlink.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 13, 2005 2:11 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] to fit a pattern-an alternative


> Oh darn! I was about to send you congratulations on such a great deal.   
> But Bjarne, have you ever made a duct tape dummy?  You would need help 
> from your honey (and a few close friends would make it go faster), but 
> it is such a great way to go if you need an exact replica of yourself. 
> 
> Sg
> 
> 
>>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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This was not mentioned for the groups sorry
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Wicked Frau" <wickedfrau@earthlink.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 13, 2005 2:11 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] to fit a pattern-an alternative


> Oh darn! I was about to send you congratulations on such a great deal.   
> But Bjarne, have you ever made a duct tape dummy?  You would need help 
> from your honey (and a few close friends would make it go faster), but 
> it is such a great way to go if you need an exact replica of yourself. 
> 
> Sg
> 
> 
>>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: 18th century bumrolls
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At 19:23 16/03/2005 +0100, you wrote:
>I really want to post a picture for you where a polonaise dress in the 
>danish museum was exhibbitted  without a bum roll and it really is a poor 
>sight without it!
>
>>And the bum rolls are not necessarily for a Polonaise but for the
>>silhouette that came up right after that.
>>Now THAT I agree with!


But why use an all in one bum roll in the first place? I use small pocket 
hoops for polonaise styles, failing which I use individual hip pads. Don't 
know (or care!) if they are authentic - they sure look good, and are the 
right shape.

Suzi


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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Check this combo out!
Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2005 13:33:46 -0600
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The gollar looks a little darker then the gown but that may have been
because it was newer made then the gown and the artist was painting colors
as he saw them. the white of the lining does create a bit of an eye oddity
and makes the gollar stand out a bit. Maybe because the black dress doesn't
have the sharp outline, that the contrast adds to the illusion of a last
minute gollar.

De



-----Original Message-----
Is it just my monitor or is the bottom of the 'black thingy' look a little
'funny'?

On my monitor it looks like the black item was either Photo Retouched, or it
was painted on later.

I know that the site wouldn't photo retouch, so it has to be my monitor.

<SIGH> what I wouldn't do to see it in person.........

Katheryne
who loves this time period pics with the collarbone area covered
<personal preference>


------Original Message ------
From: Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Check this combo out!
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>

On Tue, 15 Mar 2005 13:55:24 -0600, otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
> The black thingy on the shoulders is called something else, not a partlet.
> The high collared white smocked thingy underneath the black thingy is a
> partlet.
> Does someone remember what the black thingy is called? My memory is going
through a fogged valley.
> De
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Ooo!  That's a really clear example of a partlet as a separate
over-garment, just like a shawl.  Nice.
> Jean

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: 18th century bumrolls
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In a message dated 3/16/2005 1:35:43 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

> Don't 
> know (or care!) if they are authentic - they sure look good, and are the 
> right shape.
> 

But they are authentic...even if you can't find a real pair or an engraving 
of one. Why? Because of common sense. The 1st thing that comes to mind if you 
want a skirt to stand out near the waist and on the hip is to stuff bulk up 
under it. Hoops are great if you have the skills, time and materials it takes to 
make them, but a stuffed shape is a no brainer solution. I find it impossible 
to believe that a stuffed shape, like a crescent or two "pillows" on each hip 
was not widely used. Indeed the commonness of such things ironically makes 
them perfect candidates for not surviving or being mentioned [except they are 
mentioned] or drawn.

And a crescent shape...with some side emphasis...is desirable in a Polonaise 
because of that back drape. But it depends on fabric really and how much of it 
there is. If you have a very stiff lustring silk, a pad is more than likely 
not needed. But an embroidered linen, even a crisp one, might need a pad. It 
also depends on whether you want an artificial look or a more natural drapey 
look and movement.

And why are we assuming everyone wears these styles the same way???????

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From: Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for 16th century painting
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Hi, Deredere,

The dress looks to me like a surcoat. You probably already know that.
But just in case you don't I'll explain what little I know. If you
know, just delete this response.

Surcoats are like an overcoat or sweater in that they go over a
regular dress. They don't substitute for a dress, although I know of
people who wear them to avoid having to wear a corset. And I wore one
when I was pregnant. The surcoat usually has a short, puffy sleeve.
What I think you're seeing in your picture, whoever it is, are the
sleeves of the dress she's wearing under the puffed sleeve of the
surcoat. And yes, it is often referred to as a Spanish surcoat.

I don't know if this information will help you. I certainly hope so.
LynnD


On Mon, 14 Mar 2005 19:43:59 +0100, Deredere Galbraith
<triade@kabelfoon.nl> wrote:
> Thanks for the reply.
> I have been asked to recreate this dress.
> Actually 12 of them..
> They won't be historical accurate because they want modern fit and no
> corsets.
> I think the 16th century sheakspeare in love dress pattern from
> Simplicity will do.
> I am thinking of making different type of sleeves than the ones in the
> painting.
> I find these a bit weird for this type of dress and difficult to make.
> http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Unknown.jpg
> 
> Wicked Frau wrote:
> 
> > You are not going to believe this, but I just wrote an inquiry to the
> > Chatsworth house where this painting lives.  The reply is attached.  I
> > have been given permission to have a better black and white picture
> > and may be ordering the transparency.  (In a later note, "They"
> > decided to not sell me a slide.).   If you want to go in on the
> > transparency, contact me off list.  ;}
> >
> > Sg
> >
> > Dear Saragrace Knauf,
> >
> > Thank you for your email.
> >
> > The painting is no longer thought to be of Mary Queen of Scots after a
> > pectoral cross that had been overpainted onto the original painting
> > was removed in a 1950s cleaning. There is little doubt that the
> > painting had been altered in order to sell it to a former owner as
> > Mary Queen of Scots.  It is now attributed to Alonso Sanchez Coello
> > (1531/2-1588)?
> > Please can you tell me why you want a 35mm slide?  These are usually
> > only spplied for lecturing purposes.  If you are wishing to reproduce
> > the image in a publication I can hire you a 5 x 4" colour transparency
> > for a three month period at £35 (+VAT).  In addition there is a
> > reproduction fee dependant on usage.
> > Regarding a listing of the paintings at Chatswowrth, you can apply for
> > a list of Pictures from the Photo Survey Dept. of the Courtauld
> > Institute of Art, the Strand, London. We also sell a list of paintings
> > which hang on the public route of the house.
> >
> > My colleague, Charles Noble, Keeper of the Collection,
> > (collection@chatsworth.org) would like you to contact him if you have
> > comments to make about the dress shown in the portrait. Is it Spanish,
> > for instance, or can it be tied to a specific nationality?
> > I look forward to hearing from you in due course.
> >
> > Yours sincerely,
> >
> > Diane Naylor
> >
> >
> > --------------------------
> > Diane P. Naylor (Mrs)
> > Photo Librarian
> > Chatsworth
> > Bakewell
> > Derbyshire DE45 1PP
> > Tel: +44 (0)1246 565300
> > Fax: +44 (0)1246 565318
> >
> >
> > http://www.chatsworth.org

> >
> > Deredere Galbraith wrote:
> >
> >> Hi,
> >>
> >> I've got a black and white picture of a dress and I would like to see
> >> it in colour and to have some more information of it.
> >> Is there anyone who knows more about this painting?
> >> http://www.deredere.dds.nl/Unknown.jpg
> >>

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Subject: [h-cost] Hoop Skirt Problems
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> I am still in the process of making the Civil War Ballgown and am
having
> some problems. Should the pleats fold from the center front to the
back?
> Or
> from the back towards the front? It's hard to tell in the picture and
I
> don't seem to have good luck with pleats.


Either -- there is photo evidence of both. However, I think the dresses
in Arnold and in Nora Waugh go from front to the back.

> Also I would like to know what
> type
> of hoop I should get? I have one that is 4 boned but I started the
dress
> in
> bridal satin so of course yes it is heavy, so should I find a
differrent
> hoop? Or maybe find a light weight wire to send through the hoop?I am
not
> sure which hoop was used in the picture they took for the front of the
> pattern. And if you know where I might buy one I would do that as soon
as
> possible. 

4 hoop bones should be fine; I doubt you'd need to reinforce it. I've
never had a problem with my hoops collapsing under the weight of fabric,
and I've put bridal satin + velvet concoctions on top of mine (which is
also a 4 hoop version).

My less-then-through research says that evening hoops were frequently
wider then day hoops. Which is great if you're buying off the rack,
since it's hard to find hoops for sale as narrow as they usually seemed
to use in non-high-fashion photographs. 

> Where could I get the same type of (posies) flowers that you
> used
> on the pleats at the bottom of the overskirt? Are the posies silk
flowers
> or?

Novels of the time (specifically Meg's ball gown in _Little Women_) talk
about using real flowers to trim dresses. Fresh flowers were certainly
cheaper then they are now... I've used the fake flowers purchasable at
JoAnns. 

What pattern are you working from?
	Hope this helps,
		-sunny


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Subject: [h-cost] Hoop Skirt Problems
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 14:57:46 -0700
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> I am still in the process of making the Civil War Ballgown and am
having
> some problems. Should the pleats fold from the center front to the
back?
> Or
> from the back towards the front? It's hard to tell in the picture and
I
> don't seem to have good luck with pleats.


Either -- there is photo evidence of both. However, I think the dresses
in Arnold and in Nora Waugh go from front to the back.

> Also I would like to know what
> type
> of hoop I should get? I have one that is 4 boned but I started the
dress
> in
> bridal satin so of course yes it is heavy, so should I find a
differrent
> hoop? Or maybe find a light weight wire to send through the hoop?I am
not
> sure which hoop was used in the picture they took for the front of the
> pattern. And if you know where I might buy one I would do that as soon
as
> possible. 

4 hoop bones should be fine; I doubt you'd need to reinforce it. I've
never had a problem with my hoops collapsing under the weight of fabric,
and I've put bridal satin + velvet concoctions on top of mine (which is
also a 4 hoop version).

My less-then-through research says that evening hoops were frequently
wider then day hoops. Which is great if you're buying off the rack,
since it's hard to find hoops for sale as narrow as they usually seemed
to use in non-high-fashion photographs. 

> Where could I get the same type of (posies) flowers that you
> used
> on the pleats at the bottom of the overskirt? Are the posies silk
flowers
> or?

Novels of the time (specifically Meg's ball gown in _Little Women_) talk
about using real flowers to trim dresses. Fresh flowers were certainly
cheaper then they are now... I've used the fake flowers purchasable at
JoAnns. 

What pattern are you working from?
	Hope this helps,
		-sunny


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Six Wives of Henry Vlll
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Which one is Jane Seymour? I couldn't figure them all out....
--sue

otsisto wrote:

> Note that the Anne Boleyn picture is backwards.
> Jane Seymour's dress doesn't look like it fits her real well.
> 
> De
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> I have put the photos from The Six Wives on my fotopic site, under "The Six
> Wives" collection.
> 
> http://suziclarke4384.fotopic.net/c461806.html


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Standard reference work due for re-release-Embroidery
 book from V&A
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> Heard this through the grapevine...thought some of you might be 
> interested
> Sg
>
>> If you've been desperately seeking a copy of:
>>
>> _The Victoria & Albert Museum's Textile Collection: Embroidery in 
>> Britain from 1200 to 1750_
>>
>> Do not despair and do NOT spend the ourtrageous minimum $99.95 for 
>> which used copies are currently being hawked on Amazon.com. According 
>> the the V&A online, a reprint is in process and new copies will be 
>> available in May, 2005.
>>
>>
>>
>>  
>>
>
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On Monday 14 March 2005 5:53 am, Suzi Clarke wrote:
> At 10:27 14/03/2005 +0000, you wrote:
> >Hello
> >
> >I am looking for advice from anyone who has made a
> >male 'cavalier' style costume of around 1630. While
> >authenticity may not be terribly important in this, it
> >has to look great. I'm happy to scale up patterns if
> >there are good ones in books - e.g. does Hunisett have
> >something appropriate? I suppose I would even consider
> >a pattern by the 'big 3' if it works :-)

I don't know of a "Big 3" pattern that's worth the tissue paper it's printed 
on, for this.  Reconstructing History's patterns are probably the closest you 
can get, authenticity-wise.  


Costume Connection makes a pattern that, though not terribly authentic in cut, 
is simple to put together and doesn't require a lot of fitting (if you use 
it, make sure your guy wears a large belt over the "doublet" part--don't wear 
it the way the envelope shows.  Patterns of Time carries it, among other 
places; it's on this page on their site:

http://www.patternsoftime.com/cat44.html


> >Any warnings/advice about fabric choice would also be
> >v. greatly appreciated!

A cotton velvet/ velveteen looks like period velvet and has enough body to 
work.  A mid-weight wool should be good too.    Good luck.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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Satine, it would be really helpful if you could be specific about who 
you are responding to.  I am not sure if you are asking where my site 
is, but here is my main site:
www.saragrace.net 
Your observation of the strap hanging down behind her and on her forearm 
is a good one.  I had never noticiced it before and  have not seen it on 
any other portraits (others may have more information about that), but 
they did so many things to embelish themselves.  Before I started 
researching the gown I did, I had not noticed all the hanging sleeves 
with dags and tassles.  I suspect that armband is just that-an 
embelished armband.  Symetry didn't seem to be huge concern, sometimes 
the sleeves didn't match. 

I have a question for you.  How much sewing and pattern drafting have 
you done?  If you haven't done a lot this will be a huge undertaking.  I 
am not trying to discourage you, but as Deredre said, one cannot 
emphasize mockups enough. And do take your time.  If you don't have 
someone around who can do fittings on you, I strongly suggest making a 
ducttape dummy of yourself-can you borrow a corset from someone?  If so, 
have them do the dummy over that corset so you have the correct 
silohet.  The corset Derdre mentions is nice, but if you make that one 
be sure to bone the breast area.  I suggest doing some research on the 
Effigey corset - the continuous tabs make the wearing much more 
comfortable IMHO-and afterall, it was probably hers!  You really aren't 
going to be able to find a pattern specific to this gown though some of 
the commercial ones are good starting places.

Jean Hunnisetts books are a good resource for pattern ideas, but 
remember she is sewing for the stage, so follow your own nose on 
research and do just what you are doing-ask lots of questions!  Arnold 
books (specifically Queen Eliza... Wardrobe Unlocked) are great for 
reading and information about the gowns, but they really don't have much 
in the way of pattern making specific to this style.

As for previous discussions, this email list does not have a  standard 
archive like Yahoo groups do.  You will have to use the information on 
this page to look through archives.  
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume   There are also 
several Yahoo groups who are more focused on the time period and place 
you are interested in (The Renaissance Tailor and The Elizabethan 
Costume group come to mind). 

Sg

Lady Satine wrote:

>Satine.
>Ps I really like your site very informative Thank you ! 
>
> 
>
>
>
>  
>
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Subject: [h-cost] New to me portrait...
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Sheese!  Do you think the sitter was happy with the result?

>
> http://www.6URL.com/DVG
>
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	re-release-Embroidery book from V&A
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>>> If you've been desperately seeking a copy of:
>>>
>>> _The Victoria & Albert Museum's Textile Collection: Embroidery in 
>>> Britain from 1200 to 1750_

I haven't been, but I am now :-)

Can't wait.... I've got a space on my bookshelf ready for it next to Fashion 
in detail and QEWU.

Glenda. 

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At 19:02 14/03/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>Which one is Jane Seymour? I couldn't figure them all out....
>--sue


Sorry Sue - forgot to transfer the information - oops!
Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Has anyone ever used.......
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> ....a _pantograph_to copy and enlarge the patterns out
> of Hunniset or Holekeboers books?
>  Was it successful?

I've never tried it but imagine the main problem to overcome would be 
distortion seeing you do not get an even enlargement all over. It occurs to me 
that if you can overcome the problems of distortion (moving the thing back and 
forth and side-to-side to keep the grid square sizes uniform if you can be 
bothered) you will still have the usual problems of adjusting the pattern to 
fit the individual. I'm not saying it can't be done, just that it will be 
tedious. Good luck with it, though,

-C.


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Ok, I've got a bit of a quandry.  I'm searching for a copy of this article:  
Ashelford, Jane. "Female Masque Dress in Late Sixteenth-Century England", The Journal of Costume, Vol 12, 1998 

My library has been searching for it for me, and cannot come up with any listings for The Journal of Costume.  Does anyone know anything about this periodical, who publishes it and where I might find a copy?

thanks,

Melusine
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Check this combo out!
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The black shoulder thingy actually is often referred to as a partlet, or 
an over-partlet.  That said, it does look a good deal like similar 
german-styled clothing items which are, IIRC, called "gollars."  (my 
apologies if the spelling is "close but no cigar")
The high-collared white smocked thingy underneath is *not* necessarily a 
partlet.  It could quite easily be a shirt or shift (pick yer term ;-). 
  In the 16th c., it was sometimes possible to distinguish between male 
and female "shirts" only by looking for the additional gores put in to 
accomodate a woman's hips.
--sue


otsisto wrote:

> The black thingy on the shoulders is called something else, not a partlet.
> The high collared white smocked thingy underneath the black thingy is a
> partlet.
> Does someone remember what the black thingy is called? My memory is going
> through a fogged valley.
> 
> De
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> Ooo!  That's a really clear example of a partlet as a separate
> over-garment, just like a shawl.  Nice.
> 
> Jean
> 

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] French 1630s male costume
Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2005 17:07:05 +0100
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Beautifull!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!111


Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2005 6:08 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] French 1630s male costume


> 
> 
>> 
>> 
>> The picture shows a costume made from Waugh patterns
>> 
>> http://www.suziclarke.co.uk/viewimage.php?image=charles_i.jpg
>> 
> 
> 
> Mmmmn, yummy!
> 
> It's been ages since I touched this period, and I used the Holkeboer 
> book... 'Patterns for Theatrical Costume' I think it was, since it was 
> about the only thing in print at the time. I had good looking results. 
> Wish I had pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> >Any warnings/advice about fabric choice would also be
> >v. greatly appreciated!
> 
> I can't think of anything specific to this outfit, just the usual 
> warnings to make sure your layers breathe. I remember that it was the 
> trimming that really made the outfit, I spent a fortune (to me at the 
> time) on 'gold'-wrapped 'pearl' buttons and gold braid and moire ribbons.
> 
> 
> 
> Dawn
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] We are in trouble now-a Bildindex discovery
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I was fiddling around with Bildindex    http://www.bildindex.de    today 
and found that just because there may be a blank square which says "Kein 
Abbildung vorhanden" (no picture available) doesn't mean that they 
aren't there!  Go to a section which has some pictures while still in 
the Gallery mode.  Then click on _Vollansich_t up in the top menu row.   
The first picture should show up with a bunch of text around it.   Once 
there you should see two buttons towards the top:  Click the one which 
says_ alle Abbildungen zum Objekt_.  This shows any shot they have of 
the picture.  Sometimes the ones in the Gallery mode are black and 
white-here they may show additional shots in color and/or closer ups!  
Once in this "show all"  mode click on the arrows at the top to move 
through the whole list of pictures.  Some of those blanks have pictures! 

A few good artists to start with to prove this to yourself are 
Neufchatel or Creuznach.  Each have about 14 pictures and each has 
hidden goodies!

Be sure when scrolling through in this mode that you scroll down as you 
come to each picture.....there may be more below!

Oh happy dance!
Have fun!

I know what I will be doing most of today!

Sg
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New to me portrait...
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Why not? She looks pleased and prosperous to me <g>.
Joan

At 08:33 AM 3/15/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>Sheese!  Do you think the sitter was happy with the result?
>
>>
>>http://www.6URL.com/DVG

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When I was drafting up patterns (before there were any commercial patterns 
of good quality), I started with a sloper that fit me, then used Arnold's 
POF and other grided pattern sources to change the shapes to fit the period 
design.  Directly enlarging the patterns doesn't work well unless you are 
the same shape and size of the original wearer, and even then there is a 
lot of distortion of the original fabric from being in a tomb for so long 
under less-than-ideal preservation conditions.
Joan

At 11:26 AM 3/16/2005 +1100, you wrote:
> > ....a _pantograph_to copy and enlarge the patterns out
> > of Hunniset or Holekeboers books?
> >  Was it successful?
>
>I've never tried it but imagine the main problem to overcome would be
>distortion seeing you do not get an even enlargement all over. It occurs 
>to me
>that if you can overcome the problems of distortion (moving the thing back 
>and
>forth and side-to-side to keep the grid square sizes uniform if you can be
>bothered) you will still have the usual problems of adjusting the pattern to
>fit the individual. I'm not saying it can't be done, just that it will be
>tedious. Good luck with it, though,
>
>-C.

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At 08:40 17/03/2005 +1100, you wrote:
>>>>If you've been desperately seeking a copy of:
>>>>
>>>>_The Victoria & Albert Museum's Textile Collection: Embroidery in 
>>>>Britain from 1200 to 1750_
>
>I haven't been, but I am now :-)
>
>Can't wait.... I've got a space on my bookshelf ready for it next to 
>Fashion in detail and QEWU.
>
>Glenda.


You could always try www.rdfranks.co.uk  They may have some old copies 
left. A great "fashion" of all ages book shop, right in the middle of London


Suzi


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
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At 17:26 15/03/2005 -0800, you wrote:
>Ok, I've got a bit of a quandry.  I'm searching for a copy of this article:
>Ashelford, Jane. "Female Masque Dress in Late Sixteenth-Century England", 
>The Journal of Costume, Vol 12, 1998
>
>My library has been searching for it for me, and cannot come up with any 
>listings for The Journal of Costume.  Does anyone know anything about this 
>periodical, who publishes it and where I might find a copy?


This is actually "Costume"  Number 12 1978  The Journal of the Costume 
Society. It is the annual publication of the British Costume Society. If 
you still have difficulty, mail me off list, for a contact for back issues 
of the magazine.

Suzi


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Mar 16 17:36:50 2005
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Subject: [h-cost] "The Bayeux Tapestry: Embroidering the Facts of History"
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I have just removed my brand-new copy of this book from the box it arrived  
in from France and can tell you all immediately that every single paper in the  
book is in English.  Yea!  Lots of pictures, too, as well as an  incredible 
variety of topics.  Here are the papers --
 
Historiography of the Bayeux Tapestry
"The Great Bayeux Tapestry Debate (19th and 20th Centuries)"
"The Bayeux Tapestry: A Critical Analysis of Publications 1988-1999"
"The Bayeux Tapestry under German Occupation"
 
The Artefact as Textile
"Publication of the Results of the Scientific and Technical Study  1982-1983"
"Bayeux Tapestry or Bayeux Embroidery?"  (I'm going to read this  chapter 
first!)
"The Bayeux Tapestry: an Example of Textile Embroidery"
"The Technical Study of the Bayeux Embroidery"
"The Bayeux Embroidery and its Backing Strip"
"The Bayeux Tapestry: Results of the Scientific Tests (1982-1983)"
 
Medieval Sources and Historical Narrative
"Orderic Vitalis and the Bayeux Tapestry"
"The Echo of the Conquest in the Latin Sources: Duchess Mathilda, her  
Daughters and the
    Enigma of the Golden Child"
"The Norman Conquest in the Grande Chronique de Normandie"
"The Bayeux Tapestry as Original Source"
"Is the Bayeux Tapestry Pro-English?"
"The Bayeux Tapestry, the Bishop and the Laity"
 
The Bayeux Tapestry as Documentary Evidence
"The Bayeux Tapestry and its Depiction of Costume: The Problems of  
Interpretation
"Archaeology and the Bayeux Tapestry"
"The Importance of the Bayeux Tapestry for the History of War"
 
The Work of Art
"The Bayeux Tapestry and Decoration in North-Western Europe: Style and  
Composition"
"Trifunctionality and Epic Patterning in the Bayeux Tapestry"
"The Coronation of Harold in the Bayeux Tapestry"
"The Bayeux Tapestry: The Establishment of a Text"
 
It is available from _www.amazon.fr_ (http://www.amazon.fr) ; the  price is 
EUR 35.57 + EUR 10.90 = EUR 46.47.  
Please pass this information along!
 
Nancy
 
 
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>

Nancy  Spies
Arelate Studio
_www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html_ 
(http://www.weavershand.com/ArelateStudio.html) 
Ingvild  Josefsdatter, OL
Bright Hills, Atlantia

"But if by a 'Liberal' they  mean someone who looks ahead and not behind, 
someone who welcomes new ideas  without rigid reactions, someone who cares about 
the welfare of the people --  their health, their housing, their schools, 
their jobs, their civil rights, and  their civil liberties -- someone who believes 
we can break through the stalemate  and suspicions that grip us in our 
policies abroad, if that is what they mean by  a 'Liberal,' then I'm proud to say 
I'm a 'Liberal'." John F. Kennedy, 14 Sept  1960
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] magazine article
Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2005 17:54:32 -0500
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I can't think of any journal by that exact title, but there are:

Costume: The Journal of the Costume Society
The American Jounal of Costume
Costume Research Journal
Costume Journal (CSO)


Why don't you try asking Drea Leed where she got her reference from.

Cheers,

Joanna

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Carmen Beaudry
Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2005 8:26 PM
To: h-costume@net.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] magazine article


Ok, I've got a bit of a quandry.  I'm searching for a copy of this article:

Ashelford, Jane. "Female Masque Dress in Late Sixteenth-Century England",
The Journal of Costume, Vol 12, 1998 

My library has been searching for it for me, and cannot come up with any
listings for The Journal of Costume.  Does anyone know anything about this
periodical, who publishes it and where I might find a copy?

thanks,

Melusine
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Mar 16 18:08:37 2005
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] RE: 18th century bumrolls
Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2005 17:07:15 -0600
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I haven't been following this thread real well and I probably should not
comment as I don't know where one could locate the prints.
They were late 1700s print, don't know what it was for but one showed a
woman with "bumrolls" on each hip lacing up another woman. I vaguely
remember it to be of Northern European origin, Danish or Germanic, though it
could by a slim chance have been French. In the other print it showed a
woman having thrown one of her "bumrolls" and hitting another in the head
with it.

De




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-- Wicked Frau <wickedfrau@earthlink.net> wrote:
> >> If you've been desperately seeking a copy of:
> >>
> >> _The Victoria & Albert Museum's Textile Collection: Embroidery in 
> >> Britain from 1200 to 1750_
> >>
> >> Do not despair and do NOT spend the ourtrageous minimum $99.95 for
> 
> >> which used copies are currently being hawked on Amazon.com.


Is that really how much used copies are selling for??? OMG. I not too
long ago (Nov last year) bought a copy off eBay from a seller in the US
for under $11! Total with shipping to Australia came to under $18!

I knew it was a bergain at the time, but I didn't realise it was that
much of a bargain.



Donna Bella Lucia da Verona - Innilgard, Lochac
©Any intellectual material in this message is copyright Anabella Wake (Bella Lucia da Verona)
 ***The MARCH Italian Showcase is now online!*** http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/yourgarb/showcase.htm

Find local movie times and trailers on Yahoo! Movies.
http://au.movies.yahoo.com
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From: "Carmen Beaudry" <moreplentyn@earthlink.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] magazine article
Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2005 15:15:13 -0800
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Thank you!  I figured the it was probably UK based, and that the title had 
probably been cited incorrectly.  With this info I'll now be able to make a 
more intelligent search.

Melusine

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2005 2:32 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] magazine article


> At 17:26 15/03/2005 -0800, you wrote:
>>Ok, I've got a bit of a quandry.  I'm searching for a copy of this 
>>article:
>>Ashelford, Jane. "Female Masque Dress in Late Sixteenth-Century England", 
>>The Journal of Costume, Vol 12, 1998
>>
>>My library has been searching for it for me, and cannot come up with any 
>>listings for The Journal of Costume.  Does anyone know anything about this 
>>periodical, who publishes it and where I might find a copy?
>
>
> This is actually "Costume"  Number 12 1978  The Journal of the Costume 
> Society. It is the annual publication of the British Costume Society. If 
> you still have difficulty, mail me off list, for a contact for back issues 
> of the magazine.
>
> Suzi
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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From: Lady Satine <seamuslady@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Questions about Elizabethan
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Satine, it would be really helpful if you could be specific about who 
you are responding to.  This site= Mainsite.

 I Apologize for the confusion... 

I was excited to get any response for elizabethan.. My past dealings from a previous place I lived was Less than Heartwarming, Down right rude and Mean!

 
Your observation of the strap hanging down behind her and on her forearm 
is a good one. I had never noticiced it before and have not seen it on 
any other portraits (others may have more information about that), but 
they did so many things to embelish themselves. Before I started 
researching the gown I did, I had not noticed all the hanging sleeves 
with dags and tassles. I suspect that armband is just that-an 
embelished armband. Symetry didn't seem to be huge concern, sometimes 
the sleeves didn't match. 

I have a question for you. How much sewing and pattern drafting have 
you done? If you haven't done a lot this will be a huge undertaking. I 
am not trying to discourage you, but as Deredre said, one cannot 
emphasize mockups enough. 

Sewing For the last 10 years,  and  Pattern Drafting..... Only Easy stuff like Italian Ren,  Cotehardies and Kirtles... but as I said they are easy. so I guess not much real drafting. 

And do take your time.

Reason why I am here I am excited but need a dose of reality "take your time for this will take a while, " and stuff.....

Corsets I do have people only an hr. away that are more that willing to help That is not too far. and when we get together its an all day affair 12hrs or more... 

(The Renaissance Tailor and The Elizabethan 
Costume group come to mind)

.Renaissance Taylor Thanks I will check them out! Elizabethan Costume Group- I have been waiting over two weeks to be "approved" by the Elizabethan Costume group! so I came here as well! in hopes of Any results! 

I do appreciate you taking time out to find out my skill level and how to better answer me. Please be patient with a blank page. I am here for all you to mold! 

 I do not want this dress for an event next week, or even next month I just want to make one. When It gets done it gets done and debuts. That is my attitude.

 

Satine




		
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] We are in trouble now-a Bildindex discovery
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I tried to follow your instructions, but there is no "Vollansich t" in the 
top menu row on my screen.  It would certainly be easier if I spoke (or at 
least read) German. sigh....
Joan

At 09:31 AM 3/16/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>I was fiddling around with Bildindex    http://www.bildindex.de    today 
>and found that just because there may be a blank square which says "Kein 
>Abbildung vorhanden" (no picture available) doesn't mean that they aren't 
>there!  Go to a section which has some pictures while still in the Gallery 
>mode.  Then click on _Vollansich_t up in the top menu row.
>The first picture should show up with a bunch of text around it.   Once 
>there you should see two buttons towards the top:  Click the one which 
>says_ alle Abbildungen zum Objekt_.  This shows any shot they have of the 
>picture.  Sometimes the ones in the Gallery mode are black and white-here 
>they may show additional shots in color and/or closer ups!
>Once in this "show all"  mode click on the arrows at the top to move 
>through the whole list of pictures.  Some of those blanks have pictures!
>A few good artists to start with to prove this to yourself are Neufchatel 
>or Creuznach.  Each have about 14 pictures and each has hidden goodies!
>
>Be sure when scrolling through in this mode that you scroll down as you 
>come to each picture.....there may be more below!
>
>Oh happy dance!
>Have fun!
>
>I know what I will be doing most of today!
>
>Sg

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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It is the journal of The Costume Society (of England).   Their website is:

http://www.costumesociety.org.uk/

I think it includes a list of publications and how to get them.  They 
take checks in US dollars.

I've been a member for years, just to get the journal.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Carmen Beaudry wrote:

>Ok, I've got a bit of a quandry.  I'm searching for a copy of this article:  
>Ashelford, Jane. "Female Masque Dress in Late Sixteenth-Century England", The Journal of Costume, Vol 12, 1998 
>
>My library has been searching for it for me, and cannot come up with any listings for The Journal of Costume.  Does anyone know anything about this periodical, who publishes it and where I might find a copy?
>
>thanks,
>
>Melusine
>_______________________________________________
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>
>
>  
>
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Hi Folks,

A recent discussion on another list reminded me that there are lots of 
non-English websites which can be navigated by non-speakers, by 
guessing, but if we had some keywords in the foreign language, we could 
do even better.

I'd like to compile a simple chart of such words oriented toward 
costume/clothing research.  If you know a non-English language which can 
be rendered in a standard character set, your help would be much 
appreciated.

Please respond to me directly, in order not to clutter up the list. 
When I've compiled things, I'll tell the list where to look.

This address will get you past my spam filter: cvirtue-words@thibault.org

Words which I think might be useful -- feel free to suggest others; 
these are the ones I use most often, so I have some tunnel-vision.

picture
archive
gallery
manuscript
illumination
tapestry
painting
head wear
hats
clothing
shoes
historic
middle ages
medieval
renaissance
(other era terms?)
houppelande
tunic
poulaine
hennin
braiding
extant
gown
hood
veil
sewing pattern

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent
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I have stuck a tutorial up on my website.  Please let me know what I can 
do to make it better.

I will add more tomorrow on how to use the Icon Lists.

http://saragrace.net/2E_Bildindexhowto.html
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On Wednesday 16 March 2005 11:39 am, tearoses@aol.com wrote:
> Wow, Cathy, that's a great hat site! I feel like I should be able to make a
> hat on my own, but there are two or three of these which will do the trick
> nicely. Now if I can just persuade my husband to actually wear the funny
> hat...

You're welcome.   Good luck!
[snip]

> And if anyone's interested, I found an English site that has really
> inexpensive period-replica spoons. I think I'm going to order one for Jon
> to wear in his hat, like in two of the Brueghel paintings. The site also
> has replica saint's badges and jewelry, and as far as I can tell, the
> prices are very good. It's http://www.pewterreplicas.com/ .

Here's another one, with an even bigger selection of pilgrim's badges in 
pewter, all inexpensively priced.  They also carry spoons, and will make a 
nice belt with pewter fittings (much less expensive than the companies who 
ill make you belts with bronze fittings).

http://www.billyandcharlie.com/

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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Saragrace,
This tutorial is very useful.  Thank you for taking the time to help those 
of us who don't know German.

How would one search for the subject of artwork rather than the 
artist?  For example, I am trying to find additional views of a particular 
portrait of Elizabeth I of England that is in Vienna, according to Janet 
Arnold in QEWU.  It's by that well-known artist Anonymous, c. 1575.  And if 
there are any other portraits of her in the holdings listed in this index, 
I'd love to see them.

Thanks again for your help,
Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA

At 08:42 PM 3/16/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>I have stuck a tutorial up on my website.  Please let me know what I can 
>do to make it better.
>
>I will add more tomorrow on how to use the Icon Lists.
>
>http://saragrace.net/2E_Bildindexhowto.html

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Language keyword help
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On Wed, 16 Mar 2005, Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> I'd like to compile a simple chart of such words oriented toward 
> costume/clothing research.  If you know a non-English language which can 
> be rendered in a standard character set, your help would be much 
> appreciated.
> ...
> Words which I think might be useful -- feel free to suggest others; 

<list snipped>

Basic navigation terms would help: "search," "site map," "home,"
"contact." These functions seem to be on most sites, but finding the
native equivalent can be tricky, because it's not always a direct
translation.

Show me the search box, and I can find almost anything ;-)

--Robin


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On Thursday 17 March 2005 12:27 am, Robin Netherton wrote:
> On Wed, 16 Mar 2005, Cynthia Virtue wrote:
> > I'd like to compile a simple chart of such words oriented toward
> > costume/clothing research.  If you know a non-English language which can
> > be rendered in a standard character set, your help would be much
> > appreciated.
> > ...
> > Words which I think might be useful -- feel free to suggest others;
>
> <list snipped>
>
> Basic navigation terms would help: "search," "site map," "home,"
> "contact." These functions seem to be on most sites, but finding the
> native equivalent can be tricky, because it's not always a direct
> translation.
>
> Show me the search box, and I can find almost anything ;-)

That's true, Robin, but that's also one of the easier things to figure out 
from context (e.g., position on the site) alone.

What I think Cynthia is driving at is compiling a list of terms other than the 
basic navigation ones that someone interested in costume might use, for 
example, to find the costume-related parts of, say, a living history site in 
another language.  I have a few in mind, but I'm not likely to get to that 
tonight.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Language keyword help
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On Thu, 17 Mar 2005, Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:

> What I think Cynthia is driving at is compiling a list of terms other
> than the basic navigation ones that someone interested in costume
> might use, for example, to find the costume-related parts of, say, a
> living history site in another language.  I have a few in mind, but
> I'm not likely to get to that tonight.

Oh, I realized that. I meant in addition. It would be good to have that
handful of Web-basic keywords along with the costume-specific ones. 

--Robin

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Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2005 01:33:39 -0800 (PST)
From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Look at butterick's new costume
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My 2c worth:
Actually, I thought that it looked like there *were* stays under the dress - probably made with the stay pattern which is right next to it in the online catalogue. 

http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?s.list.10013.x=1

Joannah.

--- "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:

From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Feb 2005 02:09:48 -0600
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Look at butterick's new costume

Basically, most of Butterick's "Making History", are created with the
average sewer in mind or a beginner LHer needing a pattern for first garb.
It is researched but they will cut corners to accommodate. The lack of a
corset is a good example. Now understand the 17th cent. is not my era of
interest but I think that they have achieved a good rendition. The ruffle on
the end of the sleeves could be different IMO.

De

-----Original Message-----
> Just curious to know what you find 'horrifying'. Is the pattern that bad?
> Or is the fabric choice wrong? Or is it all that makeup?

I don't know. It just looks like a halloween costume, something someone
would rent, and not like a recreation at all.

But somehow, McCall's costumes always feel that way to me, and I almost
never can put my finger on what's bothering me.


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>>> cathy@thyrsus.com 15/03/2005 04:18:15 >>> wrote:

>Costume Connection makes a pattern that, though not terribly authentic
in cut, 
>is simple to put together and doesn't require a lot of fitting (if you
use 
>it, make sure your guy wears a large belt over the "doublet"
part--don't wear 
>it the way the envelope shows.  Patterns of Time carries it, among
other 
>places; it's on this page on their site:

>http://www.patternsoftime.com/cat44.html 


Why a belt?  The fashionable look of the time was for the "waist" to be
at the level of the lower ribs, so wearing a waist belt would completely
spoil the effect. That's why they wore their sword on a baldrick over
the shoulder.

Kate Bunting
Librarian & 17c reenactor
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Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2005 04:50:22 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mn.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Check this combo out!
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Thanks Sue!  I was going to say something similar.  In textual sources I've 
looked at, you will see plenty or references to shirts or smocks but almost 
none to partlets - and they are usually described as made of velvet or satin.

Cheers,
Danielle

At 07:03 PM 3/15/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>The black shoulder thingy actually is often referred to as a partlet, or 
>an over-partlet.  That said, it does look a good deal like similar 
>german-styled clothing items which are, IIRC, called "gollars."  (my 
>apologies if the spelling is "close but no cigar")
>The high-collared white smocked thingy underneath is *not* necessarily a 
>partlet.  It could quite easily be a shirt or shift (pick yer term 
>;-).  In the 16th c., it was sometimes possible to distinguish between 
>male and female "shirts" only by looking for the additional gores put in 
>to accomodate a woman's hips.
>--sue
>
>
>otsisto wrote:
>
>>The black thingy on the shoulders is called something else, not a partlet.
>>The high collared white smocked thingy underneath the black thingy is a
>>partlet.
>>Does someone remember what the black thingy is called? My memory is going
>>through a fogged valley.
>>De
>>-----Original Message-----
>>Ooo!  That's a really clear example of a partlet as a separate
>>over-garment, just like a shawl.  Nice.
>>Jean


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Good thing I decided to not sell my copy!

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> -- Wicked Frau wrote: 
> > >> If you've been desperately seeking a copy of: 
> > >> 
> > >> _The Victoria & Albert Museum's Textile Collection: Embroidery in 
> > >> Britain from 1200 to 1750_ 
> > >> 
> > >> Do not despair and do NOT spend the ourtrageous minimum $99.95 for 
> > 
> > >> which used copies are currently being hawked on Amazon.com. 
> 
> 
> Is that really how much used copies are selling for??? OMG. I not too 
> long ago (Nov last year) bought a copy off eBay from a seller in the US 
> for under $11! Total with shipping to Australia came to under $18! 
> 
> I knew it was a bergain at the time, but I didn't realise it was that 
> much of a bargain. 
> 
> 
> 
> Donna Bella Lucia da Verona - Innilgard, Lochac 
> ©Any intellectual material in this message is copyright Anabella Wake (Bella 
> Lucia da Verona) 
> ***The MARCH Italian Showcase is now online!*** 
> http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/yourgarb/showcase.htm 
> 
> Find local movie times and trailers on Yahoo! Movies. 
> http://au.movies.yahoo.com 
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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Check this combo out!
Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2005 01:15:17 +1300
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> Thanks Sue!  I was going to say something similar.  In textual sources
I've
> looked at, you will see plenty or references to shirts or smocks but
almost
> none to partlets - and they are usually described as made of velvet or
satin.

This isn't textual evidence, but in at least two woodcuts (one of peasants
and one of camp followers) you can see gathered partlets worn over the
dress/kirtle of German women.

The peasants can be found at lacma's collectiosn online (by Beham), and I do
believe I saw some on another site. The mp follower can be found on Marion
McNealy's site. I'm not sure if that specific woodcut is seen on other
sites.)

These are clearly worn over other garments, and are cut longer than Flemish
partlets worn over kirtles leter in the century.

I haven't seen them worn under a gollar, but then in this instance they may
be used for different purposes: protection of the skin from the sun in one
case and proctection from the cold in the other.

michaela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com
I am in the nuttign out stage of making a gathered partlet.



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New to me portrait...
Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2005 07:38:37 -0500
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Sheese!  She needs a bumroll?

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Wicked Frau" <wickedfrau@earthlink.net>
Cc: "TheRenaissanceTailor" <TheRenaissanceTailor@yahoogroups.com>;
<h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2005 10:33 AM
Subject: [h-cost] New to me portrait...


> Sheese!  Do you think the sitter was happy with the result?
>
> >
> > http://www.6URL.com/DVG
> >
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Mar 17 07:46:35 2005
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Subject: [h-cost] Bildindex and Queen Elizabeth I
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I'd say the Germans don't much care about Eliz.  Use this search in the 
ICON CLASS :   61 bb 2 (elisabeth <england, koenigin*
Not much there to look at though if you go through the 26 items in the 
Vollansicht mode, there are some interesting things to read about - i.e. 
it might tell you where to look further.  I don't see anything from 
Vienna though..:{

Joan Jurancich wrote:

> Saragrace,
> This tutorial is very useful.  Thank you for taking the time to help 
> those of us who don't know German.
>
> How would one search for the subject of artwork rather than the 
> artist?  For example, I am trying to find additional views of a 
> particular portrait of Elizabeth I of England that is in Vienna, 
> according to Janet Arnold in QEWU.  It's by that well-known artist 
> Anonymous, c. 1575.  And if there are any other portraits of her in 
> the holdings listed in this index, I'd love to see them.
>
> Thanks again for your help,
> Joan Jurancich
> Sacramento, CA
>
> At 08:42 PM 3/16/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>
>> I have stuck a tutorial up on my website.  Please let me know what I 
>> can do to make it better.
>>
>> I will add more tomorrow on how to use the Icon Lists.
>>
>> http://saragrace.net/2E_Bildindexhowto.html
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Too bad that you don't knit...  I could have sent you my recipie for this 
hat...  ah well.  Back to the leprosy bandages.
Bridgette

>.
>
>Thanks for the other responses, on- and off-list, but I don't knit, 
>unfortunately.
>

Mari Stewart
Webmaster
College of Veterinary Medicine
Cornell University


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To accompany my 'lap-sewing' yesterday, I amused myself by watching "Marie Antoinette" (1930's). This was an obviously a serious attempt to do a biography in film. The script was frivolous especially at the beginning and downright banal in places, ( they couldn't miss "Apre moi le deluge" or "let them eat cake").

However, I was amazed at the scale of the costumes and sets. Generally speaking, the men were reasonably believable in their dress.  The women's gowns were way over the top in tulle and velvet, all bespangled beyond belief.  Where was costume research in that time period! Guess academy awards for costume then were based on beauty in fantasy.

But, Antoinett's radical change in prison was remarkable in makeup and in dress, except that they discarded the corset.

One of the more touching characterizations was that of Robert Morely as a bumbling Louis. One could believe that all he really did want to do in life was to be a blacksmith or watch maker!

With the wisdom of age, this is a good film to contrast with any of the most recent attempts at interpreting this time period.

Kathleen   
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	re-release-Embroidery book from V&A
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Hi,
 
www.powellbooks.com has it for 24.95 new...
 
Chris G.

glendarob@exemail.com.au wrote:
>>> If you've been desperately seeking a copy of:
>>>
>>> _The Victoria & Albert Museum's Textile Collection: Embroidery in 
>>> Britain from 1200 to 1750_

I haven't been, but I am now :-)

Can't wait.... I've got a space on my bookshelf ready for it next to Fashion 
in detail and QEWU.

Glenda. 

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Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2005 09:50:45 -0500
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Kathleen,

You have to remember that the available resources to historic documentation 
was very limited during the 1930s.  This was Adrian's, the film's costume 
designer, most acclaimed film.  I personally think his work on "The Great 
Ziegfeld" was his best work.

The resources I have found in period publications is over-whelming.  There 
is just so much, thanks to eBay!  Before the internet, available sources 
were so limited.  Some of the publications I have found have not been seen 
in such a long time.  The more that is found and re-published, the more 
insight we have as to how past generations dressed.

Just like with wonderful people like you who long their collections to 
people like me.  You loaning your collections helps educators and designers 
pass along the correct information.  They educate their students/interns, 
and their students educate future generations.

When I was taking my film history classes in college, a good couple of good 
points were made.  In the mid 1970s there was a new search for historical 
accuracy and the truth being presented in films, literature, history itself. 
Directors wanted to make their films more period accurate.  This was because 
of all that was occurring in history at the time, that a search for the 
truth was wanted by the viewing public. Directors picked up on this and 
started a new trend in the film making industry.  Now if you look at the 
films of the time (1970s), you laugh, but this occurred none the less. This 
new trend does not occur overnight, it is a slow transition.  It takes many, 
many years to make a change.  You do have to agree that some, not all, films 
are being presented with a little more accuracy than say the films of the 
1930s.  During the 1970s, the old film studio heads were still in power. 
The moguls wanted things to stay the same.  Also during the 1970s, you saw 
the new generation of film makers and costume designers.  As both have 
matured, you find that they have learned and researched more.  See what I 
mean about the change taking time.  Now in 2005, a lot of the 1930s moguls 
are gone and the ones from the 60s and 70s are the senior powers-to-be.  We 
subscribe to the Hollywood rags mags that publishes illnesses and death 
notice.  The old moguls are dying off a pretty fast pace.

The other day, I saw a show with George Lucus.  It seems so unreal that he 
has aged so.  I keep thinking of him from when he first came out with Star 
Wars in my mind.  Now he is one of the senior power-to-be of Hollywood.  But 
just think of all that he and Spielberg have done for advancement in the 
industry.

Something to also look at is who are the new generation of costume designers 
and how well do they research.  A new generation, Deanna Appel, who was the 
costume designer, did such an outstanding job on the first couple of Austin 
Powers films, especially the first one.  She did some heavy research for her 
films.

When you look at older films, you need to keep the perspective of what 
historic costume resources did they have available.

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com 


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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Language keyword help
Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2005 10:28:39 -0500
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Have any of you ever used the Eurodicautom  from the EU?  I've never used it
for costume terms, but I use it all the time at work.

You can search for a word in Danish,Dutch, English, Finish, French, German,
Greek, Italian, Latin, Portuguese, Spanish and Swedish, and get the
equivalent in any and all of the above languages.  What makes it even more
interesting is that you can specify the subject of interest.

The address is: http://europa.eu.int/eurodicautom/

Cheers,

Joanna

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Cynthia Virtue
Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2005 9:58 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Language keyword help


Hi Folks,

A recent discussion on another list reminded me that there are lots of 
non-English websites which can be navigated by non-speakers, by 
guessing, but if we had some keywords in the foreign language, we could 
do even better.

I'd like to compile a simple chart of such words oriented toward 
costume/clothing research.  If you know a non-English language which can 
be rendered in a standard character set, your help would be much 
appreciated.

Please respond to me directly, in order not to clutter up the list. 
When I've compiled things, I'll tell the list where to look.

This address will get you past my spam filter: cvirtue-words@thibault.org

Words which I think might be useful -- feel free to suggest others; 
these are the ones I use most often, so I have some tunnel-vision.

picture
archive
gallery
manuscript
illumination
tapestry
painting
head wear
hats
clothing
shoes
historic
middle ages
medieval
renaissance
(other era terms?)
houppelande
tunic
poulaine
hennin
braiding
extant
gown
hood
veil
sewing pattern

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent
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From: ruthanneb@mindspring.com
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Flemish cap
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I DO knit and would welcome your "recipe"!

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-----Original Message-----
From: M Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu>
Sent: Mar 17, 2005 8:31 AM
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Flemish cap


Too bad that you don't knit...  I could have sent you my recipie for this 
hat...  ah well.  Back to the leprosy bandages.
Bridgette

>.
>
>Thanks for the other responses, on- and off-list, but I don't knit, 
>unfortunately.
>

Mari Stewart
Webmaster
College of Veterinary Medicine
Cornell University


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Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2005 10:56:36 -0800
From: Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Flemish cap
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Me too (although I'm no more than a passable knitter). Would it be
something you could send to the list or put onto a website somewhere?
I figure any mistakes I might make would disappear in the felting
process.

And what leprosy bandages?

LynnD

On Thu, 17 Mar 2005 12:38:55 -0500 (GMT-05:00),
ruthanneb@mindspring.com <ruthanneb@mindspring.com> wrote:
> I DO knit and would welcome your "recipe"!
> 
> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: M Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu>
> Sent: Mar 17, 2005 8:31 AM
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Flemish cap
> 
> Too bad that you don't knit...  I could have sent you my recipie for this
> hat...  ah well.  Back to the leprosy bandages.
> Bridgette
> 
> >.
> >
> >Thanks for the other responses, on- and off-list, but I don't knit,
> >unfortunately.
> >
> 
> Mari Stewart
> Webmaster
> College of Veterinary Medicine
> Cornell University
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Actually,  I have been planning to post this to my web site for - gack - 
ages.  Guess I'll have to get myself to do it.  ; >
Although - I warn everyone... I don't knit to a pattern... more general 
outlines - that's why I call it a recipie.  I just learned that way.  And 
the leprosy bandages are...
         http://www.bevscountrycottage.com/bandages.html
I figure I devote so much of my time to handwork for my hobby - it was only 
right / good karma/ cosmically advisable to devote some time to those who 
need help.  So I finish one project, then I knit a bandage & think about 
the next project.
Mari / Bridgette

>Me too (although I'm no more than a passable knitter). Would it be
>something you could send to the list or put onto a website somewhere?
>I figure any mistakes I might make would disappear in the felting
>process.
>
>And what leprosy bandages?
>
>LynnD
>
>On Thu, 17 Mar 2005 12:38:55 -0500 (GMT-05:00),
>ruthanneb@mindspring.com <ruthanneb@mindspring.com> wrote:
> > I DO knit and would welcome your "recipe"!
> >
> > --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> > scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
> >

Mari Stewart
Webmaster
College of Veterinary Medicine
Cornell University


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Mar 17 15:27:56 2005
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Look at butterick's new costume
Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2005 14:27:04 -0600
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The corset pattern I believe is 1800s (gibson girl era?). The court dress is
suppose to be 1700s.
The new wench outfit looks good as the pattern will make it easier to remove
the darts . :)

De
-----Original Message-----

My 2c worth:
Actually, I thought that it looked like there *were* stays under the dress -
probably made with the stay pattern which is right next to it in the online
catalogue.

http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/butterick/shop.cgi?s.list.10013.x=1

Joannah.



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Personally, if that had been me, I would have used the portrait to bash the artists head in.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- Wicked Frau <wickedfrau@earthlink.net> wrote:

From: Wicked Frau <wickedfrau@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2005 08:33:13 -0700
Cc: TheRenaissanceTailor <TheRenaissanceTailor@yahoogroups.com>,
	"h-costume@indra.com" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] New to me portrait...

Sheese!  Do you think the sitter was happy with the result?

>
> http://www.6URL.com/DVG
>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Look at butterick's new costume
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At 14:27 17/03/2005 -0600, you wrote:

>The corset pattern I believe is 1800s (gibson girl era?). The court dress is
>suppose to be 1700s.
>The new wench outfit looks good as the pattern will make it easier to remove
>the darts . :)


No, the corset pattern is very similar to a corset in Norah Waugh's 
"Corsets and Crinolines, of about 1780, although it has been altered to 
lace up the front.

Suzi


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Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2005 12:53:06 -0800
From: Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New to me portrait...
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And yet, who knows what she really looked like? The artist may have
shaved 15 years and 30 pounds from reality in this portrait. (Although
I do wish he had made her head more in proportion to her body.)
LynnD

On Thu, 17 Mar 2005 12:41:33 -0800 (PST), Lalah
<lalahcatlady@netscape.com> wrote:
> Personally, if that had been me, I would have used the portrait to bash the artists head in.
> 
> Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender
> 
> --- Wicked Frau <wickedfrau@earthlink.net> wrote:
> 
> From: Wicked Frau <wickedfrau@earthlink.net>
> Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2005 08:33:13 -0700
> Cc: TheRenaissanceTailor <TheRenaissanceTailor@yahoogroups.com>,
>         "h-costume@indra.com" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] New to me portrait...
> 
> Sheese!  Do you think the sitter was happy with the result?
> 
> >
> > http://www.6URL.com/DVG
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Look at butterick's new costume
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otsisto wrote:

> The corset pattern I believe is 1800s (gibson girl era?). The court dress is
> suppose to be 1700s.

The pattern numbered 4484 has a corset which compares favorably with 
pictures of corsets (stays, whatever) from the late 1700's that I have 
seen. The shape of the late 1800's is less cylindrical and more hourglass.

Butterick 4254 seems to have the exact same pattern plus one I would 
place solidly in the mid 1800's.

Unfortunately too few patterns get labelled with what period they are 
supposed to represent, and when they are labelled they're wrong. Lately 
with the corset patterns they don't tell you which dress(es) they are 
meant to go with, though sometimes you can guess.



Dawn


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I can give a hearty recommendation to www.pewterreplicas.com. Steve
Millinham's work is GREAT. I bought his apostle spoon set and a 1600s-style
watch, and they were both gorgeous. He was easy to work with even from
across the pond. No relation, just a satisfied customer, etc.

I've also bought a number of things from Billy and Charlie
(www.billyandcharlie.com), though in person and not by mail or web. Their
things are also nice, and my husband and I use a lot of their pilgrim
badges, belt fittings, and spoons.

Gail Finke

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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] New to me portrait...
Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2005 15:24:45 -0600
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Ya think maybe the artist had a problem with perspective.
BIG BODY, little head.

De

-----Original Message-----
Sheese!  She needs a bumroll?

Kathleen

> Sheese!  Do you think the sitter was happy with the result?
>
> >
> > http://www.6URL.com/DVG
> >


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On Thu, 17 Mar 2005, Lynn Downward wrote:

> And yet, who knows what she really looked like? The artist may have
> shaved 15 years and 30 pounds from reality in this portrait. (Although
> I do wish he had made her head more in proportion to her body.)

And the artist might have been her best friend's son or some other family
member or friend still learning how to paint portraits. There are
unskilled artists in every period!

--Robin

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Lynn Downward wrote:

> Although
> I do wish he had made her head more in proportion to her body.

Hard to say.  Those of us who are fairly fat look like we have small 
heads in proportion to our bodies.  The body on the lady in the painting 
is clearly very sturdy; the artist may have registered that proportion 
thing but been unable to compensate for it; as Robin intimated, not 
every painter was a master.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

Binary-numbered clock & Geek Mandalas! 
http://www.cafeshops.com/virtueventures
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From: Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net>
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 >>> http://www.6URL.com/DVG

>> Sheese!  Do you think the sitter was happy with the result?

*snip*

>  as Robin intimated, not 
> every painter was a master.
> 

Somebody liked the painting well enough to keep it, and not re-use the 
canvas for another portrait.

Some of my most cherished photographs are, artistically, miserable 
pictures, but I keep them anyway.



Dawn



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> Hi,
>
> www.powellbooks.com has it for 24.95 new...
>
> Chris G.
>
Hmmm. Just my luck. They're on backorder, and airmail would cost me US$34 to 
Australia. The sea mail is only US$8, but it takes ages. Patience is a 
virtue!

I'm too busy to do anything with it for ages (we're getting rid of my 
husband's uncle's effects after his death last year - he collected things 
(OCD). We had 1000 country and old time music albums, mostly vinyl. 900 
assorted boxing magazines! Film cameras, 8mm and 16mm movie cameras and a 
heap of darkroom equipment, and a couple of thousand books on these 
specialised subjects. Because he had a range of improperly treated mental 
illnesses, he also had every piece of paper he'd ever written a list or note 
to himself on, every bit of junk mail, old newspapers in stacks, the lot. 
Not much was sorted, so we spent from Nov to now sorting everything. Erk! 
Now we've got our garage half full of stuff we have to find ways to sell. Oh 
well, no rest for the wicked!

I've also been sewing a lovely masque outfit for the end of lent masque at 
the Australian Mediaeval Conferention (it's a bit of both). I'll put up some 
photos from the night, as it's a 9 hour drive from here, I have to have it 
packable flat, so the final assembly will take place down there.

Glenda. 

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--- glendarob@exemail.com.au wrote:

> Hmmm. Just my luck. They're on backorder, and airmail would cost me
> US$34 to 
> Australia. The sea mail is only US$8, but it takes ages. Patience is
> a virtue!


That's the only way I can afford to buy stuff from the US or UK. The
V&A book was sent via sea mail. I've got a copy of Lace: A History
coming from the UK (4 weeks down, 2 to go!) and Patterns of Fashion 1&2
also being sent via sea mail. It makes it much more affordable. :-)




Donna Bella Lucia da Verona - Innilgard, Lochac
©Any intellectual material in this message is copyright Anabella Wake (Bella Lucia da Verona)
 ***The MARCH Italian Showcase is now online!*** http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/yourgarb/showcase.htm

Find local movie times and trailers on Yahoo! Movies.
http://au.movies.yahoo.com
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> Lynn Downward wrote:
>
> > Although
> > I do wish he had made her head more in proportion to her body.
>
> Hard to say.  Those of us who are fairly fat look like we have small
> heads in proportion to our bodies.  The body on the lady in the painting
> is clearly very sturdy; the artist may have registered that proportion
> thing but been unable to compensate for it; as Robin intimated, not
> every painter was a master.
>

But Licinio is considered by many to be a Master.  This was also a style
of painting.  Many of Licinio's other
female portraits also show this anomoly of proportion.

Think about the portrait of Eleanora of Toledo by Bronzino and
how small her head is in relationship to her torso.

Jerusha

-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Botany Department, University of Tennessee
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] French 1630s male costume
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On Thursday 17 March 2005 4:14 am, Kate M Bunting wrote:
> >>> cathy@thyrsus.com 15/03/2005 04:18:15 >>> wrote:
> >
> >Costume Connection makes a pattern that, though not terribly authentic
>
> in cut,
>
> >is simple to put together and doesn't require a lot of fitting (if you
>
> use
>
> >it, make sure your guy wears a large belt over the "doublet"
>
> part--don't wear
>
> >it the way the envelope shows.  Patterns of Time carries it, among
>
> other
>
> >places; it's on this page on their site:
> >
> >http://www.patternsoftime.com/cat44.html
>
> Why a belt?  The fashionable look of the time was for the "waist" to be
> at the level of the lower ribs, so wearing a waist belt would completely
> spoil the effect. That's why they wore their sword on a baldrick over
> the shoulder.
>

Aesthetics.  The CC pattern really looks stupid without one, doubtless because 
the torso portion is nothing more than a series of strips, only connected 
down to mid-chest level.  It *has* no waist at all.

As I said originally, the CC pattern is not an authentic cut, but it is 
extremely simple to put together and looks okay, with the caveat I mentioned.  
I have not had the opportunity to try the Reconstructing History pattern (it 
didn't yet exist the last time I had to do 17th c outfits) but it's doubtless 
preferable.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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From: "Helen  Pinto" <hpinto@mindspring.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20050317230720.93550.qmail@web31507.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Standard reference work due
	forre-release-Embroiderybook from V&A
Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2005 20:52:47 -0500
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Ask your vendor if they can do USPS Global Priority Mail; you can have the 
book in 4-6 days for about the same amount or less than sea mail.  All the 
US to Australia shipping categories and rates are on this page: 
http://pe.usps.gov/text/imm/immicl/immiclab_012.html   GPM has a maximum 
weight of 4 lbs, but most books would manage to fit that limit.
              -Helen/Aidan 

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Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2005 11:35:07 +1300
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New to me portrait...
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Dawn wrote:

>
> >>> http://www.6URL.com/DVG


> Somebody liked the painting well enough to keep it, and not re-use the 
> canvas for another portrait.
>
> Some of my most cherished photographs are, artistically, miserable 
> pictures, but I keep them anyway.
>

We should probably keep in mind, too, that we've never actually met the 
sitter.  She might have thought it very flattering.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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> From: Wicked Frau <wickedfrau@earthlink.net>
> Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2005 08:33:13 -0700
> Cc: TheRenaissanceTailor <TheRenaissanceTailor@yahoogroups.com>,
> "h-costume@indra.com" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] New to me portrait...
> 
> Sheese!  Do you think the sitter was happy with the result?
> 
>> 
>> http://www.6URL.com/DVG
>> 
Boy you people are picky! She looks fine to me. I assume the body was either
stock or painted by a different person than the head, so the head is too
small. But not everyone is dainty and little!

Gail Finke


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Is it possible that this is one of those psychological things were you paint
what your mind is on bigger then everything else?
Or the subconsciously painting the artist's opinion of women. sturdy body
for birthing and very little upstairs?

De



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Greetings,

In chasing down a mysterious costuming term I stumbled across this neat 
site.  There are some interesting costume interpretations on it.  I would 
argue the authenticity of some items but they are interesting nonetheless.

http://collections.ic.gc.ca/costume/Collection/periodes.html

Cheers,
Danielle

Instructor on http://www.costumeclassroom.com
Check out my 16th Century English Clothing in Textual Sources class

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Hi,

I want to make an Archery outfit for my husband.
And I was wondering if there were any patterns.
I don't know much aboud this era but I would like to make it as correct 
as possible.
This is the Jacket I want to recreate.
http://www.manchestergalleries.org/costume/object.php?irn=14979&themeback=2&CostumeTheme=Sports%20and%20Leisure

Greetings,
       Deredere

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Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2005 01:37:31 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mn.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Check this combo out!
In-Reply-To: <001d01c52aea$fb3b79a0$0301010a@michaela>
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At 01:15 AM 3/18/2005 +1300, you wrote:
> > Thanks Sue!  I was going to say something similar.  In textual sources
> > I've looked at, you will see plenty or references to shirts or smocks but
> > almost none to partlets - and they are usually described as made of 
> velvet or
>satin.
>
>This isn't textual evidence, but in at least two woodcuts (one of peasants
>and one of camp followers) you can see gathered partlets worn over the
>dress/kirtle of German women.

Interesting, I would like to see them.  However, you have to keep in mind 
that different things were worn in different countries at this 
time.  Admittedly I did not specify England (my obsession so I sometimes 
forget that everyone can't read my mind <G>) and the portrait in question 
it is most likely either English or Netherlandish.  However, I lean toward 
English origin.  Anyway, my opinion derives from looking at a couple of 
thousand English documents so it is a valid perspective on clothing in what 
appears to be an English portrait.  Unfortunately, what is worn in a German 
woodcut isn't likely to have as much bearing on what an English woman, or 
even Netherlandish woman is wearing at that time.

>The peasants can be found at lacma's collectiosn online (by Beham), and I do
>believe I saw some on another site. The mp follower can be found on Marion
>McNealy's site. I'm not sure if that specific woodcut is seen on other
>sites.)

Thanks.  I will see if I can track them down.

>These are clearly worn over other garments, and are cut longer than Flemish
>partlets worn over kirtles leter in the century.
>
>I haven't seen them worn under a gollar, but then in this instance they may
>be used for different purposes: protection of the skin from the sun in one
>case and proctection from the cold in the other.
>
>michaela de bruce
>http://glittersweet.com
>I am in the nuttign out stage of making a gathered partlet.

Cheers,
Danielle

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Flemish cap
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Are you willing to share it with me I can knit and would love the pattern

Brin Kendall


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "M Stewart" <ms154@cornell.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2005 5:31 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Flemish cap



Too bad that you don't knit...  I could have sent you my recipie for this 
hat...  ah well.  Back to the leprosy bandages.
Bridgette

>.
>
>Thanks for the other responses, on- and off-list, but I don't knit, 
>unfortunately.
>

Mari Stewart
Webmaster
College of Veterinary Medicine
Cornell University


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I do, though! (hint, hint)
I'm finding that I just *love* to knit! ;-D
Having historical costuming interests just makes it that much worse!
--sue

M Stewart wrote:
> 
> Too bad that you don't knit...  I could have sent you my recipie for 
> this hat...  ah well.  Back to the leprosy bandages.
> Bridgette
> 
>> .
>>
>> Thanks for the other responses, on- and off-list, but I don't knit, 
>> unfortunately.
>>
> 
> Mari Stewart

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Flemish cap
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(One of the ladies in the Mission Society at church used to come to meeting
with her leprosy bandage knitting in her bag. It always made me think of
Madame Lafarge knitting while watching the Heads Roll.)

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "M Stewart" <ms154@cornell.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2005 3:14 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Flemish cap


>
> Actually,  I have been planning to post this to my web site for - gack -
> ages.  Guess I'll have to get myself to do it.  ; >
> Although - I warn everyone... I don't knit to a pattern... more general
> outlines - that's why I call it a recipie.  I just learned that way.  And
> the leprosy bandages are...
>          http://www.bevscountrycottage.com/bandages.html
> I figure I devote so much of my time to handwork for my hobby - it was
only
> right / good karma/ cosmically advisable to devote some time to those who
> need help.  So I finish one project, then I knit a bandage & think about
> the next project.
> Mari / Bridgette
>
> >Me too (although I'm no more than a passable knitter). Would it be
> >something you could send to the list or put onto a website somewhere?
> >I figure any mistakes I might make would disappear in the felting
> >process.
> >
> >And what leprosy bandages?
> >
> >LynnD
> >
> >On Thu, 17 Mar 2005 12:38:55 -0500 (GMT-05:00),
> >ruthanneb@mindspring.com <ruthanneb@mindspring.com> wrote:
> > > I DO knit and would welcome your "recipe"!
> > >
> > > --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> > > scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
> > >
>
> Mari Stewart
> Webmaster
> College of Veterinary Medicine
> Cornell University
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Thank you Penny for this perspective. I spend a lot of time viewing old
films and have been aware of many of the points you made. Adrian has been
one of my favorite designers!  ( I have one of his "little Black dresses" in
my collection).

Another thought I had yesterday re  "Marie Antoinette" that doing the 'past
fantasy' interpretation for that time period would have been in keeping with
the aesthetic mode prevalent in the film industry in the 1930's.  Movies
were for entertainment. When they were also dabbling with History they were
breaking new ground in trying to bring visual life to the eye that had only
a two dimensional static presentation available before.

I can see how this connects with the futuristic fantasy that "Star Wars"
presented in the 1970's. I remember an earlier film of space travel (1955?)
that was a wake-up of sorts to me as to the reality of film depictions. It
was a "they got it all wrong" moment. While such projects done with cartoons
(Captain Marval) could fudge on travel and conditions, motion pictures of
real life could not take the same liberties. Eve when it was fantasy.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2005 9:50 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] old film


> Kathleen,
>
> You have to remember that the available resources to historic
documentation
> was very limited during the 1930s.  This was Adrian's, the film's costume
> designer, most acclaimed film.  I personally think his work on "The Great
> Ziegfeld" was his best work.
>
> The resources I have found in period publications is over-whelming.  There
> is just so much, thanks to eBay!  Before the internet, available sources
> were so limited.  Some of the publications I have found have not been seen
> in such a long time.  The more that is found and re-published, the more
> insight we have as to how past generations dressed.
>
> Just like with wonderful people like you who long their collections to
> people like me.  You loaning your collections helps educators and
designers
> pass along the correct information.  They educate their students/interns,
> and their students educate future generations.
>
> When I was taking my film history classes in college, a good couple of
good
> points were made.  In the mid 1970s there was a new search for historical
> accuracy and the truth being presented in films, literature, history
itself.
> Directors wanted to make their films more period accurate.  This was
because
> of all that was occurring in history at the time, that a search for the
> truth was wanted by the viewing public. Directors picked up on this and
> started a new trend in the film making industry.  Now if you look at the
> films of the time (1970s), you laugh, but this occurred none the less.
This
> new trend does not occur overnight, it is a slow transition.  It takes
many,
> many years to make a change.  You do have to agree that some, not all,
films
> are being presented with a little more accuracy than say the films of the
> 1930s.  During the 1970s, the old film studio heads were still in power.
> The moguls wanted things to stay the same.  Also during the 1970s, you saw
> the new generation of film makers and costume designers.  As both have
> matured, you find that they have learned and researched more.  See what I
> mean about the change taking time.  Now in 2005, a lot of the 1930s moguls
> are gone and the ones from the 60s and 70s are the senior powers-to-be.
We
> subscribe to the Hollywood rags mags that publishes illnesses and death
> notice.  The old moguls are dying off a pretty fast pace.
>
> The other day, I saw a show with George Lucus.  It seems so unreal that he
> has aged so.  I keep thinking of him from when he first came out with Star
> Wars in my mind.  Now he is one of the senior power-to-be of Hollywood.
But
> just think of all that he and Spielberg have done for advancement in the
> industry.
>
> Something to also look at is who are the new generation of costume
designers
> and how well do they research.  A new generation, Deanna Appel, who was
the
> costume designer, did such an outstanding job on the first couple of
Austin
> Powers films, especially the first one.  She did some heavy research for
her
> films.
>
> When you look at older films, you need to keep the perspective of what
> historic costume resources did they have available.
>
> Penny Ladnier, owner
> The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
> Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
> Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Looking for 1885 male pattern
Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2005 08:03:52 -0500
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This strikes me as generally, a plain cutaway jacket that buttons all the
way up, and with a leather facing on the left sleeve. It is hard to see the
back. I will check my "Gent's Tailor" latter and see if it has particular
instructions for such garb.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Deredere Galbraith" <triade@kabelfoon.nl>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2005 3:06 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Looking for 1885 male pattern


> Hi,
>
> I want to make an Archery outfit for my husband.
> And I was wondering if there were any patterns.
> I don't know much aboud this era but I would like to make it as correct
> as possible.
> This is the Jacket I want to recreate.
>
http://www.manchestergalleries.org/costume/object.php?irn=14979&themeback=2&CostumeTheme=Sports%20and%20Leisure
>
> Greetings,
>        Deredere
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Big Body, Little head
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] New to me portrait...

And yet, who knows what she really looked like? The artist may have
shaved 15 years and 30 pounds from reality in this portrait. (Although
I do wish he had made her head more in proportion to her body.)
LynnD


>From my art history courses...In the US I seem to remember in the early 1800's there was a trend?techique? (the right word escapes me) for itinerant portraits paintes to paint clothed bodies in the slow season and then travel.  The sitters would pick the picture with a set of clothes they liked and them the painter would fill in the head.  Could this represent something like that?  

Also body painted by apprentice/student...the number of permutations that occur to me are large

Mia in CHarlotte


		
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And also - don't forget that many artists were playing with perspective 
devices and not always being able to get the whole image in one go.   Read 
David Hockney's  "Secret Knowledge: Rediscovering the Lost Techniques of 
the Old Masters" Gives a far more coherant explanation of the perspective 
problems in paintings of this time.

Mari / Bridgette




>And yet, who knows what she really looked like? The artist may have
>shaved 15 years and 30 pounds from reality in this portrait. (Although
>I do wish he had made her head more in proportion to her body.)
>LynnD
>
>
> >From my art history courses...In the US I seem to remember in the early 
> 1800's there was a trend?techique? (the right word escapes me) for 
> itinerant portraits paintes to paint clothed bodies in the slow season 
> and then travel.  The sitters would pick the picture with a set of 
> clothes they liked and them the painter would fill in the head.  Could 
> this represent something like that?
>
>Also body painted by apprentice/student...the number of permutations that 
>occur to me are large
>
>Mia in CHarlotte

Mari Stewart
Webmaster
College of Veterinary Medicine
Cornell University


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Wow!  This is such a great idea.  We've been trying to hint hint to the 
costume curator at Phoenix Art museum to do some thing similar.  Maybe 
if some other museum is doing it, it might have more meaning.

Sg

Danielle Nunn-Weinberg wrote:

> Greetings,
>
> In chasing down a mysterious costuming term I stumbled across this 
> neat site.  There are some interesting costume interpretations on it.  
> I would argue the authenticity of some items but they are interesting 
> nonetheless.
>
> http://collections.ic.gc.ca/costume/Collection/periodes.html
>
> Cheers,
> Danielle
>
> Instructor on http://www.costumeclassroom.com
> Check out my 16th Century English Clothing in Textual Sources class
>
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Oh!  If you go backwards to check the rest of the website out, we find 
that these are theater costumes.  Still very cool.

Sg


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Mar 18 09:31:01 2005
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Thank you for finding this site! What a great way to practice one's French.
Some of the items seem to be antique and in possession of various theaters.
I find it interesting that following the aesthetic of a given design period
one can almost date the interpretive costume produced.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Danielle Nunn-Weinberg" <dannw@mn.rr.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2005 1:18 AM
Subject: [h-cost] an interesting website


> Greetings,
>
> In chasing down a mysterious costuming term I stumbled across this neat
> site.  There are some interesting costume interpretations on it.  I would
> argue the authenticity of some items but they are interesting nonetheless.
>
> http://collections.ic.gc.ca/costume/Collection/periodes.html
>
> Cheers,
> Danielle
>
> Instructor on http://www.costumeclassroom.com
> Check out my 16th Century English Clothing in Textual Sources class
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri Mar 18 09:42:44 2005
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] an interesting website
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At 09:31 18/03/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>Thank you for finding this site! What a great way to practice one's French.
>Some of the items seem to be antique and in possession of various theaters.
>I find it interesting that following the aesthetic of a given design period
>one can almost date the interpretive costume produced.
>
> >
> > In chasing down a mysterious costuming term I stumbled across this neat
> > site.  There are some interesting costume interpretations on it.  I would
> > argue the authenticity of some items but they are interesting nonetheless.
> >
> > http://collections.ic.gc.ca/costume/Collection/periodes.html
> >


There is a similar collection in Copenhagen - Bjarne probably knows it. 
Only these are theatre costumes from the 18th and 19th centuries. The 19th 
century Henry Vlll is fascinating. The book with these pictures, not 
presently available - is long out of print, but gives some patterns too. 
Same author, Ellen Andersen, as the 18th and 19th century costume books 
which have such lovely pictures and patterns in.

Suzi


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I think these are modern theater costumes. Notwithstanding the amazing
preservation of their "middle ages" outfits, the more recent era stuff
is somewhat less than strictly period. Could serve as inspiration for
costuming ideas, though, if you want to look at it that way.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Danielle Nunn-Weinberg
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2005 1:18 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] an interesting website

Greetings,

In chasing down a mysterious costuming term I stumbled across this neat 
site.  There are some interesting costume interpretations on it.  I
would 
argue the authenticity of some items but they are interesting
nonetheless.

http://collections.ic.gc.ca/costume/Collection/periodes.html

Cheers,
Danielle

Instructor on http://www.costumeclassroom.com
Check out my 16th Century English Clothing in Textual Sources class

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Thought some of you might be interested in this site. Much to my 
astonishment, I find one of my own costumes on there, but that is not the 
reason for the mention. He has some interesting resources, and references, 
if you don't already know them.

Suzi


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Most of them are, but I believe that I have spotted a few that preserve the
hall marks of the original style...and show fabric wear consistent with old
cloth.When possible they have listed the designer and construction crew, and
as I have suggested, one can date the interpretation of the antique style by
the aesthetics of the time period of the production ie.,1970, 1958, and
such.
I guess this might be a good starting point to see how the development of
Historical Costume has developed in the 20th-21st Centuries.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sandra Olsen" <sandraleigh@abraxis.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2005 9:49 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] an interesting website


> I think these are modern theater costumes. Notwithstanding the amazing
> preservation of their "middle ages" outfits, the more recent era stuff
> is somewhat less than strictly period. Could serve as inspiration for
> costuming ideas, though, if you want to look at it that way.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
> On Behalf Of Danielle Nunn-Weinberg
> Sent: Friday, March 18, 2005 1:18 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] an interesting website
>
> Greetings,
>
> In chasing down a mysterious costuming term I stumbled across this neat
> site.  There are some interesting costume interpretations on it.  I
> would
> argue the authenticity of some items but they are interesting
> nonetheless.
>
> http://collections.ic.gc.ca/costume/Collection/periodes.html
>
> Cheers,
> Danielle
>
> Instructor on http://www.costumeclassroom.com
> Check out my 16th Century English Clothing in Textual Sources class
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
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Suzi, you forgot the URL, honey!
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From: Laura Morlock <lbmorloc@artsmail.uwaterloo.ca>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A "Pirate" reference site
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I would certainly be, but I don't see a link in your message.
I'm a university student, and am one of the people in charge of Orientation 
Week next year. Our faculty's theme is Pirates, and I want to go all out on the 
costumes (be in costume history, as I am).

Thanks
Laura

-- 
"As long as hunger exists, peace cannot prevail." Nobel Peace Prize winner 
Willy Brandt -- www.thehungersite.com 


Quoting Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>:

> 
> Thought some of you might be interested in this site. Much to my 
> astonishment, I find one of my own costumes on there, but that is not the 
> reason for the mention. He has some interesting resources, and references, 
> if you don't already know them.
> 
> Suzi
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A "Pirate" reference site
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At 10:46 18/03/2005 -0500, you wrote:

>I would certainly be, but I don't see a link in your message.
>I'm a university student, and am one of the people in charge of Orientation
>Week next year. Our faculty's theme is Pirates, and I want to go all out 
>on the
>costumes (be in costume history, as I am).
>
> > Thought some of you might be interested in this site. Much to my
> > astonishment, I find one of my own costumes on there, but that is not the
> > reason for the mention. He has some interesting resources, and references,
> > if you don't already know them.

Sorry, having a no-brain day!

www,gentlemenoffortune.com

Suzi


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
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At 10:48 18/03/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>Suzi, you forgot the URL, honey!



Not unusual! Trying again

www.gentlemenoffortune.com


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> Not unusual! Trying again
> 
> www.gentlemenoffortune.com

Bummer -- their women's section link is nonoperational or not up yet.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

Early biological weapons: 184 BC: In a sea battle, Hannibal of Carthage 
hurled clay pots full of vipers onto the decks of enemy ships.  - WebMD
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A "Pirate" reference site
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At 11:26 18/03/2005 -0500, you wrote:

>>Not unusual! Trying again
>>www.gentlemenoffortune.com
>
>Bummer -- their women's section link is nonoperational or not up yet.


I have mailed Greg about this, so something may be done.

Suzi


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Subject: [h-cost] Thanks for the books, Brenda. Also:more Flemish hats
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Brenda: Sorry to reply on-list, but I lost your address and I wanted to let  
you know I got the books just fine. I LOVE the Bruegel book!
 
Those of you who are studying the hats in these paintings, I have a theory  
I'd like you to examine and tell me if I'm wrong. In some of his paintings (The 
 Peasant Wedding and The Wedding Dance in the Open Air, most vividly) you  
see hats that look almost like a bowler hat, with a big round crown and a small  
brim. On a couple of these, it looks like the brim is split. So I'm wondering 
if  some of the other hats in these paintings are the same hat, only with 
half of  the brim flipped down, flipped up, or entirely removed. 
 
Specifically, in the Peasant Wedding, the guy with the red hat holding the  
tray of pies would be wearing the hat with the front brim flipped up and the  
back brim flipped down. The little girl sitting at bottom to his left seems to  
be wearing a flat cap, but it obviously has a split brim too, so maybe it's 
the  same hat collapsed on itself because it's too big for her. In The Wedding 
Dance,  the bagpipe player has both brims flipped down, but you can see where 
they  split. 
 
Sorry I don't have a website so I can show you the pictures I'm looking at.  
Here are some links to other people's sites:
 
The Peasant Wedding: 
_http://ruralworlds.msses.ru/zavalinka/gallery/images/Bruegel-Peasant-Wedding.JPG_ 
(http://ruralworlds.msses.ru/zavalinka/gallery/images/Bruegel-Peasant-Wedding.JPG) 
 
The Wedding Dance: 
_http://www.dia.org/collections/EuropeanPaintings/images/30.374.jpg_ 
(http://www.dia.org/collections/EuropeanPaintings/images/30.374.jpg) 
 
Thanks for all the responses! And I'd love to see any pictures of people's  
knitted hats.
 
Tea Rose
 
 
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Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2005 11:10:56 -0600 (CST)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] an interesting website
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On Fri, 18 Mar 2005, Sandra Olsen wrote:

> I think these are modern theater costumes. Notwithstanding the amazing
> preservation of their "middle ages" outfits, the more recent era stuff
> is somewhat less than strictly period. Could serve as inspiration for
> costuming ideas, though, if you want to look at it that way.

The home page says that there are 136,000 items in the collection, and
that 80% are "authentic" period pieces. The medieval are of course theatre
costumes (the production information is listed with some of them) and bear
no earthly resemblance to anything of that period, but presumably at least
some of the more recent stuff (which accounts for the vast majority of the
pieces) is vintage. Unless it's vintage theatrical... in other words,
there might be a 1940s theater costume of an 1880s dress, and I don't know
how they're classifying or distinguishing those.

They have a library and classes in costume history, too, but I'm not clear
on whether it's geared to theatrical costumers. They have public exhibits,
so anyone in Montreal might want to pop in.

--Robin

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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] an interesting website
Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2005 13:18:26 -0500
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It's only 15 minutes away from where I live.  How could I have never heard
of it before?

Hopefully I'll be able to go sometime in the next few weeks.

My impression of the website is that the virtual collection is all
theatrical recreations to give an impression of the time period, but that
the majority of the collection (offline) is vintage.  So to use Robin's
example a 1940s theater costume of an 1880s dress will be called theatrical
1880.  If they had an extant 1880s dress it would be part of a different
exhibition.

I wonder how their collection compares to the McCord Museum.

I'll try and give a trip report after I go of the items not online.  6000
hats, 7000 shirts, 4000 ties, 5000 pants, 5600 pairs of shoes....

Cheers,

Joanna 




-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Robin Netherton
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2005 12:11 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] an interesting website

The home page says that there are 136,000 items in the collection, and that
80% are "authentic" period pieces. The medieval are of course theatre
costumes (the production information is listed with some of them) and bear
no earthly resemblance to anything of that period, but presumably at least
some of the more recent stuff (which accounts for the vast majority of the
pieces) is vintage. Unless it's vintage theatrical... in other words, there
might be a 1940s theater costume of an 1880s dress, and I don't know how
they're classifying or distinguishing those.

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From: ruthanneb@mindspring.com
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Flemish cap
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Wow, flash back to my college days...Our Housemother was called Mrs. Grubb (no kidding), and she was a SOUR-dispositioned old woman. She had an assistant who was equally old but very pink and cheerful, and this assistant had been asking for knitting advice from time to time from several of us (those were the days when just about every woman on campus knitted, many of us during classes!) on a cabled tennis sweater she was knitting for her grandson. One day I passed the front desk and saw Mrs. Grubb knitting, with some very fine needles and thin thread/yarn. The piece wasn't very big or recognizable yet, and I was in a grit-your-teeth-and-be-pleasant mood, so I asked her what she was knitting. She looked up with an eye as steely as her needles and said "Leper bandages." Somehow the overall impression was NOT charitable but grim as could be! That was nearly forty years ago, so you can see what an impression it made! (and I hadn't known that one knitted bandages for leprosy--gue!
 ss I just assumed they were sold in drugstores or something, like any other bandages--duh, drugstores in remote parts of the world--!)

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-----Original Message-----
From: Lloyd Mitchell <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
Sent: Mar 18, 2005 7:53 AM
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Flemish cap

(One of the ladies in the Mission Society at church used to come to meeting
with her leprosy bandage knitting in her bag. It always made me think of
Madame Lafarge knitting while watching the Heads Roll.)

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "M Stewart" <ms154@cornell.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2005 3:14 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Flemish cap


>
> Actually,  I have been planning to post this to my web site for - gack -
> ages.  Guess I'll have to get myself to do it.  ; >
> Although - I warn everyone... I don't knit to a pattern... more general
> outlines - that's why I call it a recipie.  I just learned that way.  And
> the leprosy bandages are...
>          http://www.bevscountrycottage.com/bandages.html
> I figure I devote so much of my time to handwork for my hobby - it was
only
> right / good karma/ cosmically advisable to devote some time to those who
> need help.  So I finish one project, then I knit a bandage & think about
> the next project.
> Mari / Bridgette
>
> >Me too (although I'm no more than a passable knitter). Would it be
> >something you could send to the list or put onto a website somewhere?
> >I figure any mistakes I might make would disappear in the felting
> >process.
> >
> >And what leprosy bandages?
> >
> >LynnD
> >
> >On Thu, 17 Mar 2005 12:38:55 -0500 (GMT-05:00),
> >ruthanneb@mindspring.com <ruthanneb@mindspring.com> wrote:
> > > I DO knit and would welcome your "recipe"!
> > >
> > > --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> > > scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
> > >
>
> Mari Stewart
> Webmaster
> College of Veterinary Medicine
> Cornell University
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>

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Mari wrote:
> 
> 
> And also - don't forget that many artists were playing with perspective
> devices and not always being able to get the whole image in one go.   Read
> David Hockney's  "Secret Knowledge: Rediscovering the Lost Techniques of
> the Old Masters" Gives a far more coherant explanation of the perspective
> problems in paintings of this time.
> 
> Mari / Bridgette

Yes, but David Hockney made the whole thing up. I have an article on it,
somewhere, which I'll dig up when I have a chance and site for you. He
thought up the idea and wrote about it, but chose his evidence very
carefully . . . according to this article, very few paintings of the period
he talks about have any resemblance to actual drawings done with the
equipment he says the Old Masters used.

Gail Finke

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In a message dated 3/18/2005 7:15:58 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
gailscott@eos.net writes:

> Yes, but David Hockney made the whole thing up.

And then there are his designs for Ravel's "L'enfant et les sortilèges". That 
huge magenta tree...what WAS he thinking?????



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] an interesting website
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Yeah, I looked at some of their pre-Renaissance stuff... it's WEIRD! Looks 
like costumes made in the 40s or 50s... I mean, 1940s or 1950s...

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Danielle Nunn-Weinberg" <dannw@mn.rr.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2005 1:18 AM
Subject: [h-cost] an interesting website


> Greetings,
>
> In chasing down a mysterious costuming term I stumbled across this neat 
> site.  There are some interesting costume interpretations on it.  I would 
> argue the authenticity of some items but they are interesting nonetheless.
>
> http://collections.ic.gc.ca/costume/Collection/periodes.html
>
> Cheers,
> Danielle
>
> Instructor on http://www.costumeclassroom.com
> Check out my 16th Century English Clothing in Textual Sources class
>
> _______________________________________________
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> They have a library and classes in costume history, too, but I'm not clear
> on whether it's geared to theatrical costumers. They have public exhibits,
> so anyone in Montreal might want to pop in.

I'm in Montreal -- But I don't really have in interest in  theater 
costumes... I'd rather go to McCord museum, who has a permanent collection, 
or Stewart museums, who frequently has costume-related exhibitions... 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] an interesting website
Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2005 23:53:48 -0500
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I couldn't find their address, but a lot of those people are from Concordia, 
my ex-university. Also, my bf is a theatre set designer and he knows most of 
the members of the group (some by name, most he's met), some of them are 
teachers at UQAM (another of Montreal's universities).

Those people are NOT historical costumers. They're theatre costume 
designers. I wouldn't expect anything even remotely close to historical 
accuracy. From what I know of the theatre costuming world in Montreal, 
anything looking period accurate is a fluke. Unless, maybe, it was meant as 
an Opera costume.

They seem to also take in fashion students.

They do give historical costume classes. I have no idea what they're worth. 
If it's anything like what my bf took at the time (not with them, but it's a 
small world), it doesn't cover half of what most of us on the lists know, 
and it even promotes some costuming myths we've learned to avoid.

The center offers guided tours to students. I didn't see anything about 
permanent public exhibitions.

In other words: it's great if you're interested in Theater costume as it is 
done in Montreal. Really not my cup of tea :-)

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joanna" <joanna.hobbins@gmail.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2005 1:18 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] an interesting website


> It's only 15 minutes away from where I live.  How could I have never heard
> of it before?
>
> Hopefully I'll be able to go sometime in the next few weeks.
>
> My impression of the website is that the virtual collection is all
> theatrical recreations to give an impression of the time period, but that
> the majority of the collection (offline) is vintage.  So to use Robin's
> example a 1940s theater costume of an 1880s dress will be called 
> theatrical
> 1880.  If they had an extant 1880s dress it would be part of a different
> exhibition.
>
> I wonder how their collection compares to the McCord Museum.
>
> I'll try and give a trip report after I go of the items not online.  6000
> hats, 7000 shirts, 4000 ties, 5000 pants, 5600 pairs of shoes....
>
> Cheers,
>
> Joanna
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Robin Netherton
> Sent: Friday, March 18, 2005 12:11 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] an interesting website
>
> The home page says that there are 136,000 items in the collection, and 
> that
> 80% are "authentic" period pieces. The medieval are of course theatre
> costumes (the production information is listed with some of them) and bear
> no earthly resemblance to anything of that period, but presumably at least
> some of the more recent stuff (which accounts for the vast majority of the
> pieces) is vintage. Unless it's vintage theatrical... in other words, 
> there
> might be a 1940s theater costume of an 1880s dress, and I don't know how
> they're classifying or distinguishing those.
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Leprosy bandages Re: [h-cost] Re: Flemish cap
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> and I hadn't known that one knitted bandages for leprosy

Me neither. I thought leprosy was pretty easy to cure nowadays, and that 
they gave medication instead of bandages... 
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Subject: [h-cost] Brassiere?
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Hi,

I was browsing the Kyoto Costume Institute website, 1800-1820 period, and 
came across this...

http://www.kci.or.jp/cgi-bin/collection.cgi?lang=e&path=1800/15-000210_b

What is that??

I mean, this looks like two separate corset fronts... but the edges looked 
finished... 
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Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:

> 
> I mean, this looks like two separate corset fronts... but the edges 
> looked finished... 

Hmmn. I would guess it wraps longways around the torso or across the 
bust. One piece on either side?

It says it is boned at the bust but I can't quite tell *where* that 
boning is on my monitor.



Dawn



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>>I mean, this looks like two separate corset fronts... but the edges 
>>looked finished...
>
>Hmmn. I would guess it wraps longways around the torso or across the bust. 
>One piece on either side?
>
>It says it is boned at the bust but I can't quite tell *where* that boning 
>is on my monitor.

I think the scoop-shaped places at the wide ends are armholes, or at least 
half armholes.  I see the boned places as being just along from these.  So 
the narrow end would wrap around the front and tie in back, just behind the 
armhole-ish thing.  That would deal with the "cup runneth over" problem 
that some women (like me) have on the sides, and would display the "girls" 
in front.  Also, I think we're looking at both pieces upside down in the image.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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	<4.3.1.2.20050318214743.025d8208@mail.frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Brassiere?
Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2005 03:03:36 -0500
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Could it be some sort of orthopedic device?

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com 
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com 
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com

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Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2005 02:16:44 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mn.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Brassiere?
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I don't know if you have the newer Kyoto Fashion book (blue cover with a 
funky yellow-orange-red thingy on it) it shows this on a mannequin and it 
makes sense then.  I can't seem to find a picture of it on-line now that I 
want it...

Anyway, it seems to be worn with a loop over each arm with the pointy part 
pointing toward the other arm and then wrapped around and tied.

Cheers,
Danielle

At 12:12 AM 3/19/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I was browsing the Kyoto Costume Institute website, 1800-1820 period, and 
>came across this...
>
>http://www.kci.or.jp/cgi-bin/collection.cgi?lang=e&path=1800/15-000210_b
>
>What is that??
>
>I mean, this looks like two separate corset fronts... but the edges looked 
>finished...

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar 19 06:13:29 2005
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Brassiere?
To: h-costume@indra.com
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In a message dated 3/19/2005 3:18:01 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
dannw@mn.rr.com writes:

I don't  know if you have the newer Kyoto Fashion book (blue cover with a 
funky  yellow-orange-red thingy on it) it shows this on a mannequin and it 
makes  sense then. 


It is also shown on a mannequin in the original Kyoto exhibit book,  
"Revolution in Fashion."  But I have heard some thoughts that perhaps it  was an 
orthopedic device, and it is shown backwards on the mannequin--that the  boning is 
supposed to be in back. 
 
Several years ago, I tried making this garment, based on the pictures in  the 
book.  I found it very difficult to wear--it did not want to stay in  place, 
so I gave up on it.  It did provide some bust shaping, but I am not  
particularly well-endowed.
 
Ann Wass 
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar 19 06:34:20 2005
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From: Joannah Hansen <Joannah@sluggy.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: OT international DVDs (was Re: [h-cost] The Slipper and the Rose)
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Elizabeth is right about the zones, but multi-zone DVD players aren't all that hard to find, nor are they necessarily more expensive. My husband and I bought our multi-zone DVD player 18 months ago from J&B Hi-Fi ( which seems to have shops in every state except the Northern Territory ) for AUS$150.00-ish. Yes, it was on special, but the normal price wasn't so much dearer. It isn't a brand we had ever heard of, but it does what it is supposed to, which is to play DVDs.
DVD record/write/rewrite/play on the other hand..... they are much more expensive. ( One day, one day..... ;-)  )

Joannah ( in Brisbane, Australia )

--- "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@iimetro.com.au> wrote:

From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@iimetro.com.au>
Date: Sat, 26 Feb 2005 16:38:39 +1100
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: OT international DVDs (was Re: [h-cost] The Slipper and the Rose)


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Stephanie Rose" <roses@cwo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, February 25, 2005 10:52 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Slipper and the Rose


> Hi,
>
> http://www.deepdiscountdvd.com/search.cfm
> has a copy of the DVD for $11.55 - US dollars, and it says they ship
> internationally (it appears from your e-mail address that you are in
> Australia-?). I have never used this company, so I can't say whether they
> are dependable. Hope this helps.
>
> Steph
>

Just don't buy DVDs from overseas, DVDs work in 'zones' Australia NZ the
pacific and parts of Asia is one zone, the US & Canada are another zone (I'm
not sure if South America is counted in the same zone as North America)
Europe is another zone etc. Most DVD players you buy will only play the DVDs
designed for one zone, it is possible to get multi-zone DVD players but they
are hard to find and may be more expensive.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole@iimetro.com.au

Mr. Speaker, I said the honourable member was a liar it is true and I am
sorry for it. The honourable member may place the punctuation where he
pleases.
Richard Brinsley Sheridan (1751-1816) British dramatist. On being asked to
apologise for calling a fellow MP a liar. Attrib.

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Elizabeth is right about the zones, but multi-zone DVD players aren't all that hard to find, nor are they necessarily more expensive. My husband and I bought our multi-zone DVD player 18 months ago from J&B Hi-Fi ( which seems to have shops in every state except the Northern Territory ) for AUS$150.00-ish. Yes, it was on special, but the normal price wasn't so much dearer. It isn't a brand we had ever heard of, but it does what it is supposed to, which is to play DVDs.
DVD record/write/rewrite/play on the other hand..... they are much more expensive. ( One day, one day..... ;-)  )

Joannah ( in Brisbane, Australia )

--- "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@iimetro.com.au> wrote:

From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@iimetro.com.au>
Date: Sat, 26 Feb 2005 16:38:39 +1100
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: OT international DVDs (was Re: [h-cost] The Slipper and the Rose)


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Stephanie Rose" <roses@cwo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, February 25, 2005 10:52 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Slipper and the Rose


> Hi,
>
> http://www.deepdiscountdvd.com/search.cfm
> has a copy of the DVD for $11.55 - US dollars, and it says they ship
> internationally (it appears from your e-mail address that you are in
> Australia-?). I have never used this company, so I can't say whether they
> are dependable. Hope this helps.
>
> Steph
>

Just don't buy DVDs from overseas, DVDs work in 'zones' Australia NZ the
pacific and parts of Asia is one zone, the US & Canada are another zone (I'm
not sure if South America is counted in the same zone as North America)
Europe is another zone etc. Most DVD players you buy will only play the DVDs
designed for one zone, it is possible to get multi-zone DVD players but they
are hard to find and may be more expensive.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole@iimetro.com.au

Mr. Speaker, I said the honourable member was a liar it is true and I am
sorry for it. The honourable member may place the punctuation where he
pleases.
Richard Brinsley Sheridan (1751-1816) British dramatist. On being asked to
apologise for calling a fellow MP a liar. Attrib.

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


_____________________________________________________________
Sluggy.Net: The Sluggy Freelance Community!


_____________________________________________________________
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_______________________________________________
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Sorry about the double post, the computer was being obstinate. :-}
Joannah. 

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Joannah Hansen wrote:

> Elizabeth is right about the zones, but multi-zone DVD players aren't
> all that hard to find, nor are they necessarily more expensive. 

We found one for around $40 recently.  So it can be done, legally.  (If 
you're not worried about work-arounds, those exist also.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

Early biological weapons: 184 BC: In a sea battle, Hannibal of Carthage 
hurled clay pots full of vipers onto the decks of enemy ships.  - WebMD
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Subject: [h-cost] 1775 Panier Question - 
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Hi all, I was taking a look at the Kyoto collection again and saw this 
panier.

http://www.kci.or.jp/photo/collection/007682_a.jpg

It is way beyond my time period, but I was curious about a few things.  
I think I am seeing another piece of caning (besides the basic circle) 
that might run front to back ending in sort of a trunkated V in front.   
This would support the "arched" appearance.  Does anyone else see this?  
Also, not being able to see the panier from all sides, it seems like it 
sticks out in front of the torso more (and even a little more up and 
away (higher arch)   than the other dresses of the same collection (1770's).

Anyone with more experience in this period have any ideas?

Thanks,

Sg



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Gosh, that brings back memories. I haven't heard of anyone knitting leper bandages in many, many years. I was planning to tell my great-nieces about having actually done such a thing when I'm old and creaky :)

I encountered it at church camp one summer. One of the directors knew I was a knitter and asked if I'd like to do one, which I did. I don't remember what kind of cotton thread it was nor the needle size, but the pattern was "Cast on 20 stitches and work back and forth  in garter stitch (knit every row) until you run out of thread." The perfect "idiot knitting" and a small and very portable project.

As I recall, what I was told is that the hand-knitted bandages were needed because they could be boiled to sterilize them and then re-used. They couldn't use bandages with elastic thread in them because the rubber in the elastic wouldn't stand up to repeated boilings.

If anyone's knitting modern leper bandages I'd be curious to know where such things would be sent when they're done -- I can see that it's possible someone's still using them, perhaps in an area where not a lot of modern technology is available, but I'm very curious to know where.



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+  Davis, California
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Wicked Frau wrote:

> 
> I think I am seeing another piece of caning (besides the basic circle) 
> that might run front to back ending in sort of a trunkated V in front.   
> This would support the "arched" appearance.  Does anyone else see this? 

Yes, you are seeing the 'basket' support for the pannier. There are some 
images here that show it in more detail:

http://www.fashion-era.com/paniers.htm#Panier%20Or%20Panniers



Dawn


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JP Ryan, who has student this period extensively, is interested in the 
mystery item.  Can someone please post the URL again so I can forward it to 
her. Janice is one of our instructors.  She is not a list member but is 
willing to look it over and give her input, for me to pass along to you all.

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Brassiere?
Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2005 15:51:37 -0500
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Yes, but I'd never have recognized it for the same thing if you hadn't told 
me it was. They say beginning 19thC, coutil, boned at bust. But they don't 
put in in the Empire-style section.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Danielle Nunn-Weinberg" <dannw@mn.rr.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 19, 2005 3:16 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Brassiere?


>I don't know if you have the newer Kyoto Fashion book (blue cover with a 
>funky yellow-orange-red thingy on it) it shows this on a mannequin and it 
>makes sense then.  I can't seem to find a picture of it on-line now that I 
>want it...
>
> Anyway, it seems to be worn with a loop over each arm with the pointy part 
> pointing toward the other arm and then wrapped around and tied.
>
> Cheers,
> Danielle
>
> At 12:12 AM 3/19/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>>Hi,
>>
>>I was browsing the Kyoto Costume Institute website, 1800-1820 period, and 
>>came across this...
>>
>>http://www.kci.or.jp/cgi-bin/collection.cgi?lang=e&path=1800/15-000210_b
>>
>>What is that??
>>
>>I mean, this looks like two separate corset fronts... but the edges looked 
>>finished...
>
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> It is also shown on a mannequin in the original Kyoto exhibit book,
> "Revolution in Fashion."  But I have heard some thoughts that perhaps it 
> was an
> orthopedic device, and it is shown backwards on the mannequin--that the 
> boning is
> supposed to be in back.

I wonder about that. I think boning right at the front of the bust would 
provide just the flat bust-front look that you'd want under an Empire dress. 
If the boning was in the back, then there would be nothing to hold the 
breasts anymore... it would have to be worn over stays or something of the 
kind. 
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The gentleman of fortune who runs the site would be most grateful for any 
pictures or other information for the period 1680-1720 on ordinary women 
and ladies of the night. His "Wenches" link is not up as he does not as yet 
have this information. I have pointed him to Hogarth, although I know that 
is later, but any other visual source suggestions would be welcome. He is 
concerned that the impression given at the moment is "Hollywood tavern 
wench" rather than realistic. I will be happy to pass on any help you can give.

www.gentlemenoffortune.com

Suzi


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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New to me portrait...
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otsisto wrote:

>Is it possible that this is one of those psychological things were you paint
>what your mind is on bigger then everything else?
>Or the subconsciously painting the artist's opinion of women. sturdy body
>for birthing and very little upstairs?
>  
>

I think you're reading way too much into it.  Beauty ideals vary.  Just 
at the time that English artists were making their models look slimmer, 
Italian artiss were making theirs look fatter.  I suspect bot cultures 
were equally keen on both sex and childbirth.

Adele d'M
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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Big Body, Little head
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>And yet, who knows what she really looked like? The artist may have
>shaved 15 years and 30 pounds from reality in this portrait. (Although
>I do wish he had made her head more in proportion to her body.)
>  
>
Given reputed Italian tastes at the time, it seems more likely he'd hade 
_added_ 30 pounds.

Adele d'M
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pirate site 
To: h-costume@indra.com
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In a message dated 3/19/2005 6:24:19 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

> The gentleman of fortune who runs the site would be most grateful for any 
> pictures or other information for the period 1680-1720 on ordinary women 
> and ladies of the night.

Why would they not wear what any other woman would wear? I mean, is there 
supposed to be some kind of uniform for prostitutes? Are they high class 
courtesans in upper class clothes or working women in hand me downs or poor women in 
rags?

I know! Red with black lace!  Ok ok....I just made myself sick.

Are not his pirates in typical sea faring garments of the time? The 
distressing and teching to denote wear and tear or miss-matching of varied elements of 
sailor uniforms is sorta up to the "designer". So too for prostitutes.

I suppose he needs sources for working and lower class women.

Were I to design a "wench" that had the feel of the Hollywood tavern-girl 
cliche, but was more accurate, I might put her in a worn and patched and dirty 
chemise with a once fine corset over it. Perhaps a fraying and soiled silk 
brocade corset...even with tie in sleeves...like in the Kyoto book....for some 
color. Maybe only one petticoat...that doesn't match anything. If she is actually 
working in a tavern, it could be tucked or tied up to reveal some ankle and 
leg with stockings [and chemise hem]. Some good accessories might be a distinct 
and eye catching hat, a big purse and a knife and pistol. Beauty patches 
always seem a little slutty.

You get the idea....but all the garments can be found on women of fashion in 
the period. It's their mish-mashing and condition that give her station away.
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Do you suppose that this dress
http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/eudr/hob_CI.65.13.1a-c.htm
is what the designers at Butterick were trying to replicate? It has the
same "flat" ruffle at the bottom and rather severe hips. 

I wonder why the real dress looks so much better than the pattern...
Maybe the fabric they picked for the pattern was too heavy.

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Ok, weird question.  I am in the process of  putting in innumerable 
lacing eyelets in a kirtle.  While I am too lazy to go to the basement 
to find Janet Arnolds Patterns of Fashion( i will do so when i  put more 
layers on-it is just too cold  to go down there in thin stuff) I think 
that she does show some close-ups of actual eyelets. 

However, does she or anyone else talk about the color of the stitching? 
Anyone know if it was mostly same color, or was the color a contrasting 
thread?  Does anyone have pictorial evidence that they base their thread 
choice on when making lacing holes?

Puzzeled and lazy,
Jordana



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This is a second post...not sure why but not all my messages are 
reaching the list.

Wicked Frau wrote:

> Do you mean the original url Penny?  It was this:  
> http://www.kci.or.jp/photo/collection/007682_a.jpg
> Sg
>
> Penny Ladnier wrote:
>
>> JP Ryan, who has student this period extensively, is interested in 
>> the mystery item.  Can someone please post the URL again so I can 
>> forward it to her. Janice is one of our instructors.  She is not a 
>> list member but is willing to look it over and give her input, for me 
>> to pass along to you all.
>>
>> Penny Ladnier, owner
>> The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
>> Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
>> Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>>
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lacing Eyelets
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Funny you should ask this right now as I am doing that kirtle and had the same question (as well as how close to put the eyelets).  I decided that the grids were an inch apart and the eyelets seem be on the grid so I made them an inch apart.  I read everything I could find and she only states that they are sewn but doesn't mention the color of the thread.  That may be because the back of the garment was in pretty bad shape due to being under the body for so long and the colors were changed.  Personally, I am going with the fabric color so they won't show up since making a bazillion eyelets isn't my favorite occupation and they get a bit sloppy at times.  Thread the color of the fabric isn't as noticable.  Are you making the ropa too?  I haven't even started that and I need it for an event the first weekend in April.  Where does the time go?

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- J Schueller <jaurbik@optonline.net> wrote:

From: J Schueller <jaurbik@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Mar 2005 10:22:25 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] Lacing Eyelets

Ok, weird question.  I am in the process of  putting in innumerable 
lacing eyelets in a kirtle.  While I am too lazy to go to the basement 
to find Janet Arnolds Patterns of Fashion( i will do so when i  put more 
layers on-it is just too cold  to go down there in thin stuff) I think 
that she does show some close-ups of actual eyelets. 

However, does she or anyone else talk about the color of the stitching? 
Anyone know if it was mostly same color, or was the color a contrasting 
thread?  Does anyone have pictorial evidence that they base their thread 
choice on when making lacing holes?

Puzzeled and lazy,
Jordana



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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
To: h-cost <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lacing Eyelets
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lacing Eyelets

>I did look at the pictures and saw that though she did not mention the
>color, the thread looked white on the white fabric, and dark on the dark

While probably too early for you & your kirtle...
The Charles de Blois pourpoint is silver brocade w/ green thread
eyelets for the laces. Surprised me when I first read it.
I have copies`of the original french text monographs from the Musee de
Tissue (home`of the de Blois pourpoint) on the pour giving
construction, observastions, provenance.
Similarly, you can look a Boucher for a color photo of Charles the
Bold's snappy red jacque. I dont remember the thread color or if
eyelets are visible.
--cin
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From: "Kass McGann" <historian@reconstructinghistory.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pirate site 
Date: Sun, 20 Mar 2005 14:18:21 -0500
Organization: Reconstructing History
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Actually, there was kind of a "uniform" for prostitutes in the late 17th
and early 18th century and it did mark them as different from other
women.  Courtesans and prostitutes were more likely to wear "beauty
spots" and masks for one thing.  Other "uniforms" revealed by period
source materials include the dress of a Quaker woman and other new
religious sects because apparently customers liked to pretend they were
doing it with one of these radicals.

In the illustrations of the time, it's pretty easy to read the signs of
prostitution.  He's asking a rather well-informed question for this time
period.

Kass

Reconstructing History Patterns
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-----Original Message-----

Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2005 20:55:19 EST
From: AlbertCat@aol.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pirate site 
To: h-costume@indra.com
Message-ID: <1a3.2fcaff84.2f6e3207@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

In a message dated 3/19/2005 6:24:19 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

> The gentleman of fortune who runs the site would be most grateful for
any 
> pictures or other information for the period 1680-1720 on ordinary
women 
> and ladies of the night.

Why would they not wear what any other woman would wear? I mean, is
there 
supposed to be some kind of uniform for prostitutes? Are they high class

courtesans in upper class clothes or working women in hand me downs or
poor women in 
rags?

I know! Red with black lace!  Ok ok....I just made myself sick.

Are not his pirates in typical sea faring garments of the time? The 
distressing and teching to denote wear and tear or miss-matching of
varied elements of 
sailor uniforms is sorta up to the "designer". So too for prostitutes.

I suppose he needs sources for working and lower class women.

Were I to design a "wench" that had the feel of the Hollywood
tavern-girl 
cliche, but was more accurate, I might put her in a worn and patched and
dirty 
chemise with a once fine corset over it. Perhaps a fraying and soiled
silk 
brocade corset...even with tie in sleeves...like in the Kyoto
book....for some 
color. Maybe only one petticoat...that doesn't match anything. If she is
actually 
working in a tavern, it could be tucked or tied up to reveal some ankle
and 
leg with stockings [and chemise hem]. Some good accessories might be a
distinct 
and eye catching hat, a big purse and a knife and pistol. Beauty patches

always seem a little slutty.

You get the idea....but all the garments can be found on women of
fashion in 
the period. It's their mish-mashing and condition that give her station
away.



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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pirate site 
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At 14:18 20/03/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>Actually, there was kind of a "uniform" for prostitutes in the late 17th
>and early 18th century and it did mark them as different from other
>women.  Courtesans and prostitutes were more likely to wear "beauty
>spots" and masks for one thing.  Other "uniforms" revealed by period
>source materials include the dress of a Quaker woman and other new
>religious sects because apparently customers liked to pretend they were
>doing it with one of these radicals.
>
>In the illustrations of the time, it's pretty easy to read the signs of
>prostitution.  He's asking a rather well-informed question for this time
>period.


Kass

I only have illustrations of lady pirates of the time - Anne Bonney and 
Mary Reid - and would appreciate any other illustration sources. He does 
not want the Hollywood look at all. I am sure, from what he said, he also 
wants ordinary women, and those I do not have except at the edges of 
paintings where they are too small, even under magnification, to see any 
detail.

I will forward your information to him - thanks.

Suzi


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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Butterick Costume 
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:) bulls eye! :)
I knew I had seen that type of decoration at the hem.
Can't tell from the picture whether the bodice has the ruffled waist like
the pattern.

De

-----Original Message-----
Do you suppose that this dress
http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/eudr/hob_CI.65.13.1a-c.htm
is what the designers at Butterick were trying to replicate? It has the
same "flat" ruffle at the bottom and rather severe hips.

I wonder why the real dress looks so much better than the pattern...
Maybe the fabric they picked for the pattern was too heavy.



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Date: Sun, 20 Mar 2005 12:30:55 -0800 (PST)
From: Lady Satine <seamuslady@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Butterick Costume
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I feel the same way, however usually the "mundane" costumes look well like costumes and the materials used look simply awlful in my opinion. weather too heavy a material , the costume is too big for the model or badly sewn for the picture on the package.  I take it for what it is a costume "loosely based" on history... and a starting point for Potential Newbies.. 
 
I love the Museum photo on the link... 
 
Satine
 
 
Sandra Olsen <sandraleigh@abraxis.com> wrote:
Do you suppose that this dress
http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/eudr/hob_CI.65.13.1a-c.htm
is what the designers at Butterick were trying to replicate? It has the
same "flat" ruffle at the bottom and rather severe hips. 

I wonder why the real dress looks so much better than the pattern...
Maybe the fabric they picked for the pattern was too heavy.

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Sandra Olsen wrote:
> Do you suppose that this dress
> http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/eudr/hob_CI.65.13.1a-c.htm
> is what the designers at Butterick were trying to replicate? It has the
> same "flat" ruffle at the bottom and rather severe hips. 

I got a book of costume photos from the Met last week and noticed that 
same dress myself.

> 
> I wonder why the real dress looks so much better than the pattern...
> Maybe the fabric they picked for the pattern was too heavy.

After looking at this pattern and the Met dress for a few days I think 
what bothers me about the recreation is the lace. It's white and it 
contrasts much more with the blue dress fabric than the black and gold 
on the Met dress. Also, they use lace yardage, as opposed to a nice wide 
trim lace, and the repro pattern is tiny, geometric, and looks cheap. A 
court dress shouldn't look cheap.

There's a nice line on the Met dress, on either side of the torso, over 
the bust,trimmed in black lace, and the repro dress is missing this. 
They put a large bow on the front neckline instead. It changes the whole 
line of the period, subtly, but enough that it looks off.

Again, with the lace, the repro dress uses a plain sheer ruffle on the 
sleeve, where --for a court gown -- you really want to be displaying 
something elaborately ornate.


As we all know, recreating the pattern of a historical dress sometimes 
isn't the hard part, it's finding the right fabric and trimmings to make 
it look real. I'm ok with the fabric Butterick used, but the lace isn't 
good enough to make it look the way it probably should.



Dawn

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Subject: [h-cost] Portefraes - translation request
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Gentle costumers,

Are there any Dutch speakers on list? The online translators are not
particularly helpful with technical, specialty or historic info. May I
beg a favor?  I've got this costume catalog entry which I cant read
and suspect the item is the wire armature for a supportasse.  Since I
know of no others, this is particularly intriguing. Here's the entry:

Portefraes
Eind 16de eeeuw -eerte derde 17de eeuw; roodkoper; in twee stucken;
<dimensions given>
Ovaalvormig steuelementen in koperdraad voor vlakke kraag of
(vermoedelijk) plooikraag. Een cirkel omvat de hals en wordt gesloten
met haak en oog midden voor. Vanaf die cirkel vertrekken spiljlen
straalgewijs, na enkele torsies vormen ze een gelobde rand. De
draagelementen zijn aan de voorzijde korter. Het stuk is gebroken en
vertoont lacunes; vermoedelijk ontbreken twee tot drie draagelementen.

The catalog is "TEXTILIA kostuums en accessoires uit eigen bezit",
Ghent, Bijlokemuseum,1986.

Thanks for the help! For your amusement & edification, the web
"translation" is given below.

Portefraes
End 16de eeeuw - eerte third 17de centuries; roodkoper; in two
stucken; <dimensions given>
Ovaalvormig steuelementen in purchaser wire for flat collar
or(supposedly) fold collar. A circle includes the neck and is closed
with hook and eye in the
middle of. As from that circle spiljlen leave straalgewijs, after some
torsies they form a lobbed edge. The draagelementen to be to the front
shorter. The piece is broken and shows lacunas; suspected being
lacking two up to three draagelementen.

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Butterick Costume" IS it a possible double mistake" ?
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 Dawn , I have an "observation and question on the
museum photo,  the description states"
 "In the eighteenth century, formal dress was so
closely associated with Versailles and the French
court that it was universally described as the robe à
la française.
****** As illustrated here, the robe à la française
has a fitted overdress. It is open at the front, with
a decorative bodice insert called a stomacher covering
the corset and ****an underskirt, the petticoat,
showing  ****under the _splayed drapery_ of the
overskirt."****
            WHAT SPLAYED DRAPERY?
the front shown looks like one piece,though it is 3
pieces seamed together vertically.
If you click on the"object" button you get 3 views of
the side ,trim and Back. If you look at the back
photo, there is a split in the overskirt(splay?) where
the under skirt could be seen,
IS IT POSSIBLE that the skirt has been put on the
dummy -_Backwards?_ and we are seeing the _back_
placed on the front view?
If the designers at Butterick went by this "wrong"
view they would have in turn produced the pattern
backwards.
What do you think? IS this possible....given the
description they provided?
 Best, 
Melody

--- Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> wrote:

> Sandra Olsen wrote:
> > Do you suppose that this dress
>http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/eudr/hob_CI.65.13.1a-c.htm
> > is what the designers at Butterick were trying to
> replicate? 
> 
> 
> I got a book of costume photos from the Met last
> week and noticed that same dress myself.
> 
> After looking at this pattern and the Met dress for
> a few days I think  what bothers me about the
recreation is the lace.
> It's white and it  contrasts much more with the blue
dress fabric than the black and gold 
> on the Met dress. Also, they use lace yardage, as
> opposed to a nice wide  trim lace, and the repro
pattern is tiny, geometric, and looks cheap. 
> 
> There's a nice line on the Met dress, on either side
> of the torso, over  the bust,trimmed in black lace,
and the repro dress is missing this. 
> They put a large bow on the front neckline instead.
> It changes the whole line of the period, subtly, but
enough that it looks off.
> 
> Again, with the lace, the repro dress uses a plain
> sheer ruffle on the sleeve, where --for a court gown
-- you really want to be displaying 
> something elaborately ornate.
>
> As we all know, recreating the pattern of a
> historical dress sometimes 
> isn't the hard part, it's finding the right fabric
> and trimmings to make 
> it look real. I'm ok with the fabric Butterick used,
> but the lace isn't 
> good enough to make it look the way it probably
> should.
> > 
> Dawn
> 
> 


		
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From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Butterick Costume  more views
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Click  on the "Object" button below the picture,you
get to see the back, trim and side view, too
Melody
--- otsisto <otsisto@socket.net> wrote:
> :) bulls eye! :)
> I knew I had seen that type of decoration at the
> hem.
> Can't tell from the picture whether the bodice has
> the ruffled waist like
> the pattern.
> 
> De
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> Do you suppose that this dress
>
http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/eudr/hob_CI.65.13.1a-c.htm
> is what the designers at Butterick were trying to
> replicate? It has the
> same "flat" ruffle at the bottom and rather severe
> hips.
> 
> I wonder why the real dress looks so much better
> than the pattern...
> Maybe the fabric they picked for the pattern was too
> heavy.
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


		
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At 21:06 20/03/2005 -0800, you wrote:
>  Dawn , I have an "observation and question on the
>museum photo,  the description states"
>  "In the eighteenth century, formal dress was so
>closely associated with Versailles and the French
>court that it was universally described as the robe à
>la française.
>****** As illustrated here, the robe à la française
>has a fitted overdress. It is open at the front, with
>a decorative bodice insert called a stomacher covering
>the corset and ****an underskirt, the petticoat,
>showing  ****under the _splayed drapery_ of the
>overskirt."****
>             WHAT SPLAYED DRAPERY?
>the front shown looks like one piece,though it is 3
>pieces seamed together vertically.
>If you click on the"object" button you get 3 views of
>the side ,trim and Back. If you look at the back
>photo, there is a split in the overskirt(splay?) where
>the under skirt could be seen,
>IS IT POSSIBLE that the skirt has been put on the
>dummy -_Backwards?_ and we are seeing the _back_
>placed on the front view?
>If the designers at Butterick went by this "wrong"
>view they would have in turn produced the pattern
>backwards.
>What do you think? IS this possible....given the
>description they provided?


No, this is not what has happened. This is a court mantua, and the extra 
material you see at the back is folded . Very often, there is what appears 
to be a train, which is folded up and looped more or less at the 
waist.  This particular format is unusual in English mantuas - I have a 
catalogue of I think) a dutch court dress which is very similar to this. 
Both Hunnisett and Arnold have patterns - Arnold's is in the back of the 
1660-1860 book. Neither are court mantuas, but "ordinary" ones, if you can 
have such a thing.

I am currently working with the Museum of London on a mantua, so I am very 
"up" on them right now!!

Suzi



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] French 1630s male costume
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On Thursday 17 March 2005 4:14 am, Kate M Bunting wrote:
>> Why a belt?  The fashionable look of the time was for the "waist" to
be
>> at the level of the lower ribs, so wearing a waist belt would
completely
>> spoil the effect. That's why they wore their sword on a baldrick
over
>> the shoulder.
>>>> cathy@thyrsus.com 18/03/2005 01:22:40 >>> replied

>Aesthetics.  The CC pattern really looks stupid without one, doubtless
>because the torso portion is nothing more than a series of strips, only
>connected down to mid-chest level.  It *has* no waist at all.

By "waist" I meant the point where the garment starts to be divided
into tabs. These were meant to flare out from the lower ribs and not be
bundled into a belt! It only looks stupid to generations not accustomed
to high waistlines on men.

Kate Bunting
Librarian & 17th cent. reenactor
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Butterick Costume" IS it a possible double mistake"?
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Melody, I think you have hit the nail directly on the head.  I  have largely 
ignored the thread, because I never in my life have seen a  dress with such a 
front as the one on the Butterick pattern and figured it  was not worth my 
while to discuss it since so many others were having such fun,  and was really 
surprised to see the Met dress.  I then put it down to the  fact that there is 
always an exception to every rule!  However, I did not  notice the link to the 
other photos until you mentioned it.  I now believe  the overskirt is placed 
incorrectly on the mannequin. It is a dress with  an (originally attached) 
overskirt that should be placed with the opening  in the front.  I am looking at 
several construction line drawings and  photographs of several mantuas in Avril 
Hart's Fashion in Detail as well as the  Clive House mantua in Janet Arnold.  
What I am seeing is, these mantuas are  open completely at the front and what 
appears to the be the back is actually the  front edges folded back to meet 
and fall gracefully, either in semi-pressed  folds or a looser, graceful fall 
of the fabric.  This gown appears to not  be constructed at all like the 
mantuas I am seeing.
 
The one thing I am a bit distressed about is this:  the overskirt  should 
actually have been connected at the back bodice, so that a mistake  like this 
should not have happened.  Apparently this one at some point  became separated.  
Some of these mistakes are due to the fact that a  garment was used in an 
early 20th c. theatrical setting, and was therefore  altered to what suited the 
needs of the director at the time.  Others were  altered during the colonial 
revival period so that they could be worn, with the  mindset of the late 
Victorian era we have seen some really strange alterations,  all neatly done by hand 
so that a relatively untrained eye could be fooled into  thinking that they 
were original.
 
I believe Suzi is giving the exhibit designers at the Met way too much  
credit.  I see mistakenly draped (& dated!) mannequins in museums all  the time.  
There is a mid-18c "maternity" gown in a book I have that  is placed completely 
backwards on the mannequin and isn't any more a maternity  gown than any 
other gown of its period.  The pleats that should align  either side of a front 
stomacher are left hanging down the back like some  child's leading strings!  
Again, there is always an exception.  However, most of those didn't  make it 
into museum displays.
 
Best regards,
Susannah
 
Susannah Eanes, Mantua Maker and Fine Tailoring
_www.virginvintage.com_ (http://www.virginvintage.com) 
 
"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."  --William  Morris
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I want to see that article.  thanks for the fresh information.  Mari



> >
> > And also - don't forget that many artists were playing with perspective
> > devices and not always being able to get the whole image in one go.   Read
> > David Hockney's  "Secret Knowledge: Rediscovering the Lost Techniques of
> > the Old Masters" Gives a far more coherant explanation of the perspective
> > problems in paintings of this time.
> >
> > Mari / Bridgette
>
>Yes, but David Hockney made the whole thing up. I have an article on it,
>somewhere, which I'll dig up when I have a chance and site for you. He
>thought up the idea and wrote about it, but chose his evidence very
>carefully . . . according to this article, very few paintings of the period
>he talks about have any resemblance to actual drawings done with the
>equipment he says the Old Masters used.
>
>Gail Finke

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Butterick Costume" IS it a possible double mistake"?
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In a message dated 3/21/2005 7:38:13 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
Susannah9810@aol.com writes:

Melody,  I think you have hit the nail directly on the head.


I was going to advise that we not judge too hastily, as the possibly  
Venetian court dress in the Kyoto book looks similar from the front, but, after  
seeing the back of both it and the dress at the Met, it does seem that the Met's  
is backwards, doesn't it.  Also, the ruffle around the waist of the bodice  is 
clearly visible, leading me to believe even more strongly that the Butterick  
pattern was loosely based on this dress.  If the garment has been modified  
through the years, do you think that ruffle is a later addition,  too? 
 
Ann Wass 
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Subject: [h-cost] Leprosy bandages info
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Interesting.  When I mentioned it I didn't think anyone would be 
interested.  It's just something I found out about 6 months ago...  and it 
seemed like a very worthy cause.   So for all the other folks who have 
asked questions I'm sending the URL of the place that I send my finished 
product to.   Thanks for the interest.   Bridgette / Mari


http://www.bevscountrycottage.com/bandages.html

Mari Stewart
Webmaster
College of Veterinary Medicine
Cornell University


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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] French 1630s male costume
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On Monday 21 March 2005 5:12 am, Kate M Bunting wrote:
> On Thursday 17 March 2005 4:14 am, Kate M Bunting wrote:
> >> Why a belt?  The fashionable look of the time was for the "waist" to
>
> be
>
> >> at the level of the lower ribs, so wearing a waist belt would
>
> completely
>
> >> spoil the effect. That's why they wore their sword on a baldrick
>
> over
>
> >> the shoulder.
> >>
> >>>> cathy@thyrsus.com 18/03/2005 01:22:40 >>> replied
> >
> >Aesthetics.  The CC pattern really looks stupid without one, doubtless
> >because the torso portion is nothing more than a series of strips, only
> >connected down to mid-chest level.  It *has* no waist at all.
>
> By "waist" I meant the point where the garment starts to be divided
> into tabs. These were meant to flare out from the lower ribs and not be
> bundled into a belt! It only looks stupid to generations not accustomed
> to high waistlines on men.

Yes, but there is no "waist" per se in the CC pattern.  If you look even at 
CC's sketch of their pattern (the one depicted on the envelope), you'll see 
that the entire torso consists of tabs--unified only as far down as about the 
armpit level.  

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] French 1630s male costume
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Missed the original post...could you post the pattern url?  I am curious 
to see what you guys are talking about.

Sg

Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:

>On Monday 21 March 2005 5:12 am, Kate M Bunting wrote:
>  
>
>>On Thursday 17 March 2005 4:14 am, Kate M Bunting wrote:
>>    
>>
>>>>Why a belt?  The fashionable look of the time was for the "waist" to
>>>>        
>>>>
>>be
>>
>>    
>>
>>>>at the level of the lower ribs, so wearing a waist belt would
>>>>        
>>>>
>>completely
>>
>>    
>>
>>>>spoil the effect. That's why they wore their sword on a baldrick
>>>>        
>>>>
>>over
>>
>>    
>>
>>>>the shoulder.
>>>>
>>>>        
>>>>
>>>>>>cathy@thyrsus.com 18/03/2005 01:22:40 >>> replied
>>>>>>            
>>>>>>
>>>Aesthetics.  The CC pattern really looks stupid without one, doubtless
>>>because the torso portion is nothing more than a series of strips, only
>>>connected down to mid-chest level.  It *has* no waist at all.
>>>      
>>>
>>By "waist" I meant the point where the garment starts to be divided
>>into tabs. These were meant to flare out from the lower ribs and not be
>>bundled into a belt! It only looks stupid to generations not accustomed
>>to high waistlines on men.
>>    
>>
>
>Yes, but there is no "waist" per se in the CC pattern.  If you look even at 
>CC's sketch of their pattern (the one depicted on the envelope), you'll see 
>that the entire torso consists of tabs--unified only as far down as about the 
>armpit level.  
>
>  
>
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> I am sure, from what he said, he also wants ordinary women, and
> those I do not have except at the edges of paintings where they
> are too small, even under magnification, to see any detail.

Hi Suzi,

     The Laroon street cries prints are good for early 18thC common
clothing.  Of course, for any web page it's a matter of finding an
original (out of copyright) edition or getting permission from
someone who has one.  I have a book that was printed around 1985, so
it's under copyright.

     -Carol
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Suzi Clarke wrote:
> I only have illustrations of lady pirates of the time - Anne Bonney and 
> Mary Reid - and would appreciate any other illustration sources.

Has he tried thumbing through some of the online/web art museum sites 
for paintings from this period?  That's where I'd look first, if I had 
the time.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

Early biological weapons: 184 BC: In a sea battle, Hannibal of Carthage 
hurled clay pots full of vipers onto the decks of enemy ships.  - WebMD
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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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>>> wickedfrau@earthlink.net 21/03/2005 14:43:34 >>>
Missed the original post...could you post the pattern url?  I am
curious 
to see what you guys are talking about.

Sg

The "Cavalier man" on http://www.patternsoftime.com/cat44.html 
Kate
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From: Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Leprosy bandages info
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How interesting!  I, too thought that leprosy was pretty much a thing of the past.  I love to knit and will have to pick up some cotton yarn and get to knitting.  Like I don't already have enough projects going.  Thanks for the website!

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- M Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu> wrote:

From: M Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu>
Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2005 08:41:57 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] Leprosy bandages info


Interesting.  When I mentioned it I didn't think anyone would be 
interested.  It's just something I found out about 6 months ago...  and it 
seemed like a very worthy cause.   So for all the other folks who have 
asked questions I'm sending the URL of the place that I send my finished 
product to.   Thanks for the interest.   Bridgette / Mari


http://www.bevscountrycottage.com/bandages.html

Mari Stewart
Webmaster
College of Veterinary Medicine
Cornell University


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From: Lena Strid <lstrid@mglarc.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Portefraes - translation request
Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2005 15:52:25 -0000
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Not Dutch myself, but one of my work mates is. This is her translation:

Portefraes
End of 16th century - first third of the 17th century; red copper; in two
pieces <dimensions given> Oval shaped supporting* elements in copper wire
for flat collar or (presumably) folded collar. A circle includes the neck
and is being closed with hook and eye for in the middle. From the circle
jet-formed spokes (?) leave, which after a couple of torsions/windings form
a lobbed edge. The carrying elements are shorter in front. The piece is
broken and shows lacunas; probably two to three carrying elements are
missing.

*: this is assuming that the original word is misspelt and that they meant
'steun'.

/Lena 

P.S. What is a portefraes?



-----Original Message-----
From: Cin [mailto:cinbarnes@gmail.com] 
Sent: 21 March 2005 02:41
To: h-cost
Subject: [h-cost] Portefraes - translation request

Gentle costumers,

Are there any Dutch speakers on list? The online translators are not
particularly helpful with technical, specialty or historic info. May I
beg a favor?  I've got this costume catalog entry which I cant read
and suspect the item is the wire armature for a supportasse.  Since I
know of no others, this is particularly intriguing. Here's the entry:

Portefraes
Eind 16de eeeuw -eerte derde 17de eeuw; roodkoper; in twee stucken;
<dimensions given>
Ovaalvormig steuelementen in koperdraad voor vlakke kraag of
(vermoedelijk) plooikraag. Een cirkel omvat de hals en wordt gesloten
met haak en oog midden voor. Vanaf die cirkel vertrekken spiljlen
straalgewijs, na enkele torsies vormen ze een gelobde rand. De
draagelementen zijn aan de voorzijde korter. Het stuk is gebroken en
vertoont lacunes; vermoedelijk ontbreken twee tot drie draagelementen.

The catalog is "TEXTILIA kostuums en accessoires uit eigen bezit",
Ghent, Bijlokemuseum,1986.

Thanks for the help! For your amusement & edification, the web
"translation" is given below.

Portefraes
End 16de eeeuw - eerte third 17de centuries; roodkoper; in two
stucken; <dimensions given>
Ovaalvormig steuelementen in purchaser wire for flat collar
or(supposedly) fold collar. A circle includes the neck and is closed
with hook and eye in the
middle of. As from that circle spiljlen leave straalgewijs, after some
torsies they form a lobbed edge. The draagelementen to be to the front
shorter. The piece is broken and shows lacunas; suspected being
lacking two up to three draagelementen.

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Butterick Costume" IS it a possible double
  mistake"?
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I am repeating this as I believe my mails are not getting through. My 
apologies if you get it twice.

I now believe  the overskirt is placed
incorrectly on the mannequin. It is a dress with  an (originally attached)
overskirt that should be placed with the opening  in the front.  I am 
looking at
several construction line drawings and  photographs of several mantuas in 
Avril
Hart's Fashion in Detail as well as the  Clive House mantua in Janet Arnold.
What I am seeing is, these mantuas are  open completely at the front and what
appears to the be the back is actually the  front edges folded back to meet
and fall gracefully, either in semi-pressed  folds or a looser, graceful fall
of the fabric.  This gown appears to not  be constructed at all like the
mantuas I am seeing.

The one thing I am a bit distressed about is this:  the overskirt  should
actually have been connected at the back bodice, so that a mistake  like this
should not have happened.  Apparently this one at some point  became 
separated.
Some of these mistakes are due to the fact that a  garment was used in an
early 20th c. theatrical setting, and was therefore  altered to what suited 
the
needs of the director at the time.  Others were  altered during the colonial
revival period so that they could be worn, with the  mindset of the late
Victorian era we have seen some really strange alterations,  all neatly 
done by hand
so that a relatively untrained eye could be fooled into  thinking that they
were original.

I believe Suzi is giving the exhibit designers at the Met way too much
credit.  I see mistakenly draped (& dated!) mannequins in museums all  the 
time.


There are three court mantuas in the Victoria and Albert Museum.
One, "A gown and petticoat..The skirt is folded sides to centre, but the 
train would seem to be missing". Two "A gown and petticoat......the 
bodice.continues into a basque to which is joined a hem length tail, 
pleated sides to centre.
Three "A gown and petticoat....robings which merge with the skirt. These 
are draped into basques.the skirt is folded sides to centre; the end, 
embroidered in lighter style, drapes up etc."

These are all photographed in the same way as the  gown under discussion. I 
believe the so called ruffles at the waist are actually the basques as 
described in the V and A book "Four Hundred Years of Fashion" from which 
the above quotes are taken.

There are similar mantuas at Blaise Castle, Bath, and at the Museum of 
London - the one I am working with, which is also photographed in the same 
fashion. I cannot find the Dutch "Festival" gown I was looking for, but 
that is the same.

Are you suggesting that all these curators/exhibit designers are incorrect? 
I think that is hardly likely.

Suzi


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Repeated, as some of my mail does not appear to be getting through - 
apologies if you get this twice

At 09:02 21/03/2005 -0500, you wrote:

> > I am sure, from what he said, he also wants ordinary women, and
> > those I do not have except at the edges of paintings where they
> > are too small, even under magnification, to see any detail.
>
>Hi Suzi,
>
>      The Laroon street cries prints are good for early 18thC common
>clothing.  Of course, for any web page it's a matter of finding an
>original (out of copyright) edition or getting permission from
>someone who has one.  I have a book that was printed around 1985, so
>it's under copyright.
>
>      -Carol


Thank you so much - I had forgot Laroon - and I have some images doh!!

Suzi


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Portefraes - translation request
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At 15:52 21/03/2005 +0000, you wrote:
>Not Dutch myself, but one of my work mates is. This is her translation:
>
>Portefraes
>End of 16th century - first third of the 17th century; red copper; in two
>pieces <dimensions given> Oval shaped supporting* elements in copper wire
>for flat collar or (presumably) folded collar. A circle includes the neck
>and is being closed with hook and eye for in the middle. From the circle
>jet-formed spokes (?) leave, which after a couple of torsions/windings form
>a lobbed edge. The carrying elements are shorter in front. The piece is
>broken and shows lacunas; probably two to three carrying elements are
>missing.
>
>*: this is assuming that the original word is misspelt and that they meant
>'steun'.
>
>/Lena
>
>P.S. What is a portefraes?
>
>
>Are there any Dutch speakers on list? The online translators are not
>particularly helpful with technical, specialty or historic info. May I
>beg a favor?  I've got this costume catalog entry which I cant read
>and suspect the item is the wire armature for a supportasse.  Since I
>know of no others, this is particularly intriguing. Here's the entry:
>
>Portefraes
>Eind 16de eeeuw -eerte derde 17de eeuw; roodkoper; in twee stucken;
><dimensions given>
>Ovaalvormig steuelementen in koperdraad voor vlakke kraag of
>(vermoedelijk) plooikraag. Een cirkel omvat de hals en wordt gesloten
>met haak en oog midden voor. Vanaf die cirkel vertrekken spiljlen
>straalgewijs, na enkele torsies vormen ze een gelobde rand. De
>draagelementen zijn aan de voorzijde korter. Het stuk is gebroken en
>vertoont lacunes; vermoedelijk ontbreken twee tot drie draagelementen.
>
>The catalog is "TEXTILIA kostuums en accessoires uit eigen bezit",
>Ghent, Bijlokemuseum,1986.


>Cynthia Barnes

Cynthia

Is this the supportasse from the "Beguines" nunnery? If so, I have a 
drawing made by a friend - it does sound awfully like it. It is broken, 
joins with a hook and loop, and the "spokes" are a double wire, with a 
"neck" and a "head" or "lobe" shape. If not, I would love to see a picture.

Suzi


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: OT international DVDs 
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Here's some more info from my husband -- one list reader has inquired of 
me directly so I figured others might be interested:

-------- Original Message --------

The one in the kids' room was $30, from Circuit City.

The thing is, lots of DVD players include back doors to disable the
region lock, but they're not supposed to, so it's not an advertised
feature.  It seems to happen mostly when a small company OEMs a machine
from a small Asian development firm; the engineers at the Asian firm
stick in the back door, and don't get caught (QA just looks for features
that are supposed to be there), and nobody catches it until the player
hits the shelves.  People start trying sequences (much the same as video
game players hunt for cheat codes), and then post them online.  If the
company selling the machine notices, they may or may not complain to the
development firm and get them to disable the back door in future versions.

So, even if the model we have is still on the market, it's not a sure
thing that newer players have the back door.

...

Also point her to, um, http://www.videohelp.com/, which has listings of 
(among other things) DVD players and their various obscure features, 
which she can use to find a suitable player.  (She might need to find a 
geek to work the site for her; it's got lots more data than a non-geek 
will care about.)

 > Now, the final question -- is any of this illegal?  Or just that it
 > annoys the video production companies?

The DVD industry will tell you it's illegal in the US; they assert that 
the region coding constitutes an "effective technical measure" to 
prevent copyright infringement, under the DMCA.  However, it's likely 
that, if it ever faced a court challenge, the court would rule that, if 
you buy a DVD, you have the right to view it ("fair use"), which means 
that playing it on a DVD player from a different zone is not copyright 
infringement, which means that a technical measure to keep you from 
doing so is not preventing copyright infringement, which means that 
subverting that technical measure is not a violation of the DMCA.

Probably.

Someone who's interested in learning more can probably find an actual 
lawyer explaining it online.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

Binary-numbered clock & Geek Mandalas! 
http://www.cafeshops.com/virtueventures
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Leprosy bandages
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> http://www.bevscountrycottage.com/bandages.html 

Thanks so much for posting this website, and for a trip down memory
lane.  My grandmother used to knit these back in the 60's and it was one
of the few knitting projects I have ever done, mostly because she was
doing it.  I don't really knit but love to crochet (and can do it just
about anywhere, like when riding in a car) and per this website, you can
crochet these too.  This type of project can sometimes be very soothing,
no pattern or stitch change to keep track of and easy to have on hand. 
Off to get a ball of cotton.

Thanks again!
Catherine
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Susannah9810@aol.com wrote:

> I now believe  the overskirt is placed 
> incorrectly on the mannequin. It is a dress with  an (originally attached) 
> overskirt that should be placed with the opening  in the front.  I am looking at 
> several construction line drawings and  photographs of several mantuas in Avril 
> Hart's Fashion in Detail as well as the  Clive House mantua in Janet Arnold.  
> What I am seeing is, these mantuas are  open completely at the front and what 
> appears to the be the back is actually the  front edges folded back to meet 
> and fall gracefully, either in semi-pressed  folds or a looser, graceful fall 
> of the fabric. 

I disagreee with this. I believe the draping at the back is vestigal 
pleating from the sack dress style, but adapted for formal court 
fashion. Similar pleating can be seen on the Clive House gown in the 
back, under the draping that is tucked up from the front.

The key to the Met dress is that it is a court gown, and court gowns got 
weird during this time period, with fashion rules all their own. They 
had very very long pleated panels in the back like this one, that could 
unfold to become the longest court train you ever saw, and would then be 
elaborately folded up for normal walking. Of course, this dress doesnt 
unfold into a long train, but it mimicks that look, which is what some 
court dresses did if they weren't going to be unfolded. There are some 
very bizarre looking court gowns from around 1800, with high empire 
waists, wide panniers, and vestigal train-drapes in back.

Commentary in the book I have says "In this gown the train and skirts of 
th open robe have become so stylized that they form at the center back 
only a vestigal hem-length panel, revealing the entire expanse of 
petticoat."

I don't see that there is any way that panel in the back could be folded 
up from the front and tucked over those panniers in a drape like the 
Clive House mantua.


  This gown appears to not  be constructed at all like the
> mantuas I am seeing.

Exactly. I dont believe it was ever meant to be open in front.



Dawn



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In a message dated 3/20/2005 2:19:52 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
historian@reconstructinghistory.com writes:

Actually, there was kind of a "uniform" for prostitutes in the late  17th
and early 18th century and it did mark them as different from  other
women.  Courtesans and prostitutes were more likely to wear  "beauty
spots" and masks for one thing.  Other "uniforms" revealed by  period
source materials include the dress of a Quaker woman and other  new
religious sects because apparently customers liked to pretend they  were
doing it with one of these radicals.




Thus proving there is no uniform. "More Likely" to wear something other  
women wear and dressing up like other types of women....like Quakers....is no  
uniform. It just proves what I was saying: They wear clothes everyone else  
wears, but with a style that advertises their trade. 
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From: "Sandra Olsen" <sandraleigh@abraxis.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Met Books, was Butterick Costume
Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2005 14:12:45 -0500
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Dawn wrote:
>I got a book of costume photos from the Met last week and noticed that 
>same dress myself.

Oh? I've been trying to find *any* decent book on the Met's historical
costume collection. For some reason, all the ones I can find focus on
their modern clothes, not 19th century and earlier, which is my area of
interest. What's the name of the one you have, and what area does it
cover? Does anyone have any other titles to suggest?

Thanks,
Sandra

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Met Books, was Butterick Costume
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Sandra Olsen wrote:

> Oh? I've been trying to find *any* decent book on the Met's historical
> costume collection. For some reason, all the ones I can find focus on
> their modern clothes, not 19th century and earlier, which is my area of
> interest. What's the name of the one you have, and what area does it
> cover? Does anyone have any other titles to suggest?

Since several people seem to be interested...

The cover says:
"The Metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin Fall 1987"

The title page says:
"In Style: Celebrating Fifty Years of the Costume Institute" Jean L. 
Druesedow

My copy claims it is a quarterly bulletin, each issue seems to be 
devoted to a different collection, this is the costume collection.

It's a 67 page museum catalog, it has great photos, starts about 1700 
and ends about 1950. It's kind of light on text, but has a good 
paragraph about each item, and multiple photos of most of the dresses. 
It's primarily women's clothing, but there are some men's waistcoats and 
banyans of the early 1800's and a few children's dresses. The first 33 
pages are pre-1850, and the second half is about equally split between 
later Victorian and early 20th century pieces.



Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1775 Panier Question -
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Do you mean the original url Penny?  It was this:  
http://www.kci.or.jp/photo/collection/007682_a.jpg
Sg

Penny Ladnier wrote:

> JP Ryan, who has student this period extensively, is interested in the 
> mystery item.  Can someone please post the URL again so I can forward 
> it to her. Janice is one of our instructors.  She is not a list member 
> but is willing to look it over and give her input, for me to pass 
> along to you all.
>
> Penny Ladnier, owner
> The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
> Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
> Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1775 Panier Question -
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Are you looking for the brassiere site?
http://www.kci.or.jp/cgi-bin/collection.cgi?lang=e&path=1800/15-000210_b
or the panier site?
http://www.kci.or.jp/photo/collection/007682_a.jpg
Hope this helps

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote:

From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2005 13:09:23 -0500
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1775 Panier Question -

JP Ryan, who has student this period extensively, is interested in the 
mystery item.  Can someone please post the URL again so I can forward it to 
her. Janice is one of our instructors.  She is not a list member but is 
willing to look it over and give her input, for me to pass along to you all.

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Leprosy bandages info
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I still wonder why I'd take the time to knit bandages instead of sending 
money to organizations that provide medical care to these people...


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "M Stewart" <ms154@cornell.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, March 21, 2005 8:41 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Leprosy bandages info


>
> Interesting.  When I mentioned it I didn't think anyone would be 
> interested.  It's just something I found out about 6 months ago...  and it 
> seemed like a very worthy cause.   So for all the other folks who have 
> asked questions I'm sending the URL of the place that I send my finished 
> product to.   Thanks for the interest.   Bridgette / Mari
>
>
> http://www.bevscountrycottage.com/bandages.html
>
> Mari Stewart
> Webmaster
> College of Veterinary Medicine
> Cornell University
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Portefraes - translation request
Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2005 15:39:35 -0500
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> P.S. What is a portefraes?

If it's anything like what it sounds like, and the description would seem 
not to be too far off, in French it would sound like porte-fraise, i.e. ruff 
holder. I have no idea if this is just a coincidence, it's just a wild 
guess, but it might get some people thinking, who know more than I do :-) 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pirate site 
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At 20:55 19/03/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>In a message dated 3/19/2005 6:24:19 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:
>
> > The gentleman of fortune who runs the site would be most grateful for any
> > pictures or other information for the period 1680-1720 on ordinary women
> > and ladies of the night.
>
>Why would they not wear what any other woman would wear? I mean, is there
>supposed to be some kind of uniform for prostitutes? Are they high class
>courtesans in upper class clothes or working women in hand me downs or 
>poor women in
>rags?
>
>
>Are not his pirates in typical sea faring garments of the time? The
>distressing and teching to denote wear and tear or miss-matching of varied 
>elements of
>sailor uniforms is sorta up to the "designer". So too for prostitutes.
>
>
>Were I to design a "wench" that had the feel of the Hollywood tavern-girl
>cliche, but was more accurate, I might put her in a worn and patched and 
>dirty
>chemise with a once fine corset over it. Perhaps a fraying and soiled silk
>brocade corset...even with tie in sleeves...like in the Kyoto book....for 
>some
>color. Maybe only one petticoat...that doesn't match anything. If she is 
>actually
>working in a tavern, it could be tucked or tied up to reveal some ankle and
>leg with stockings [and chemise hem]. Some good accessories might be a 
>distinct
>and eye catching hat, a big purse and a knife and pistol. Beauty patches
>always seem a little slutty.


No need to shoot the messenger - I was simply passing on the gentleman's 
request for information. Like I said, does anyone have visual sources for 
ordinary women as these are scarce at this time?

Suzi


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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
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Subject: [h-cost] Flattering the eminent gemologist
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Hi, it's me again with another "gem" question. 

Hmmmm. Let's see. Flattery <rummages through attic> Oh yes. You know lots more about gems and semiprecious stones than anyone I know, and you're so kind as to keep answering my questions!

Someone on the Paternosters mailing list asks:

>Does anybody know if heat-treating carnelian to enhance the color was
>a practice known in period?  I'll admit that I prefer the color of the
>treated beads.  (I'm a sucker for the sparklies...*g*)

>From the fact that she mentions an A&S competition, I assume she's in the SCA and "period" means before 1600.

Aside from being 3,000 miles from all my books and files at the moment (I'm flying home this afternoon) I have no idea what kinds of temperatures are necessary to deepen the red color of carnelian. I'd be willing to bet that if it could be done with period technology, it probably was, in this case :)

Would you do me a favor? I'd love to have you join the Paternosters mailing list to field questions like this. It's not a very busy list, as you'll see if you go to the home page (about a dozen messages a month usually, with occasional spurts). I'm sending you an invitation in a separate message.  

Thanks!

____________________________________________________________
0  Chris Laning
|  <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Mar 21 16:09:31 2005
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Date: Sun, 20 Mar 2005 09:18:48 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lacing Eyelets
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
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> Ok, weird question.  I am in the process of  putting in innumerable
> lacing eyelets in a kirtle.  While I am too lazy to go to the basement
> to find Janet Arnolds Patterns of Fashion( i will do so when i  put more
> layers on-it is just too cold  to go down there in thin stuff) I think
> that she does show some close-ups of actual eyelets.
>
> However, does she or anyone else talk about the color of the stitching?
> Anyone know if it was mostly same color, or was the color a contrasting
> thread?  Does anyone have pictorial evidence that they base their thread
> choice on when making lacing holes?
>
> Puzzeled and lazy,
> Jordana

Okay,  I pulled out my "Textiles and Clothing: 1150-1450" book which has
several examples of button and lacing holes that they found.  The pictures
are in black and white so it is hard to say with certainty if the thread
used was similar or contrasting.  In at least one picture there is thread
of a different color used but...it is much more visible on the underside
than on the outer part (it is silk thread on wool fabric).  To me that
doesn't sound like the color was used as a decoration if you could barely
see it.

Most of the other 3-4 pictures show that the thread color was similar or
the same as the garment.  Also, for what it is worth, silk thread seems to
be the most frequently used for button/lacing holes.  I am not sure if it
is more sturdy or what.  But if you are going to put your dress in a
garbage heap and want those threads to survive, use silk ;~>

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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Date: Sun, 20 Mar 2005 12:35:03 -0500
From: J Schueller <jaurbik@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lacing Eyelets
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Actually, I am just making an underdress to go with a flemish overdress, 
but it is fairly like the dorthea von something dress, so it is only 
about 44(total, not pairs! as I am placeing them for sprial lacing), as 
I am placing them 2 cm apart.  On my last underdress I made them an inch 
apart, but I also put three of the small plastic noodles from rigaline 
into the seem.  Since I am not doing that in this dress(they ending up 
pooking out of the fabric at the ends and I want to see what happens 
without them), I wanted the eyelets to be closer.   

I did look at the pictures and saw that though she did not mention the 
color, the thread looked white on the white fabric, and dark on the dark 
fabric.  Of course, since the pictures are black and white, I don't know 
exactlly ehat it means, but you take your chances. 

My main problem is that I made both my last sest of flemish and this set 
reverable, and since I made one layer blue and the other bighe, which 
side do I choice to blen with?   I decided to blend with the blue, but I 
thought someone on this list might have done more to reserch it.  I have 
also(this morning, after I have done 6 already), decided that a rust 
color that I have would have looked nicer with the bighe side, and would 
have looked ok with the blue also, but was wondering if there was any 
documentaion for contrasting or not thread.   (since I don't have any 
choice and the thread will contrast with at least one side o the dress)
 
Lalah-how  many holes does that leave you with making? I was thinging of 
making that, but was not sure I wanted to do that many holes!

Less layt then this morning, (I have already done three holes, started 
laundry, put away laundry, scrubed bathtub, and repotted two plants!)
Jordana

Lalah wrote:

>Funny you should ask this right now as I am doing that kirtle and had the same question (as well as how close to put the eyelets).  I decided that the grids were an inch apart and the eyelets seem be on the grid so I made them an inch apart.  I read everything I could find and she only states that they are sewn but doesn't mention the color of the thread.  That may be because the back of the garment was in pretty bad shape due to being under the body for so long and the colors were changed.  Personally, I am going with the fabric color so they won't show up since making a bazillion eyelets isn't my favorite occupation and they get a bit sloppy at times.  Thread the color of the fabric isn't as noticable.  Are you making the ropa too?  I haven't even started that and I need it for an event the first weekend in April.  Where does the time go?
>
>Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender
>
>
>--- J Schueller <jaurbik@optonline.net> wrote:
>
>From: J Schueller <jaurbik@optonline.net>
>Date: Sun, 20 Mar 2005 10:22:25 -0500
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] Lacing Eyelets
>
>Ok, weird question.  I am in the process of  putting in innumerable 
>lacing eyelets in a kirtle.  While I am too lazy to go to the basement 
>to find Janet Arnolds Patterns of Fashion( i will do so when i  put more 
>layers on-it is just too cold  to go down there in thin stuff) I think 
>that she does show some close-ups of actual eyelets. 
>
>However, does she or anyone else talk about the color of the stitching? 
>Anyone know if it was mostly same color, or was the color a contrasting 
>thread?  Does anyone have pictorial evidence that they base their thread 
>choice on when making lacing holes?
>
>Puzzeled and lazy,
>Jordana
>
>
>
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Butterick Costume" IS it a possible double mistake" ?
Date: Sun, 20 Mar 2005 23:28:49 -0600
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Note: the side view photo. The sleeve ruffle is not lace like the other
pictures and I think that the neck ruffle is also different. And you may be
right about the skirt being on backwards. :)

De

-----Original Message-----
 Dawn , I have an "observation and question on the
museum photo,  the description states"
 "In the eighteenth century, formal dress was so
closely associated with Versailles and the French
court that it was universally described as the robe `
la frangaise.
****** As illustrated here, the robe ` la frangaise
has a fitted overdress. It is open at the front, with
a decorative bodice insert called a stomacher covering
the corset and ****an underskirt, the petticoat,
showing  ****under the _splayed drapery_ of the
overskirt."****
            WHAT SPLAYED DRAPERY?


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Mar 21 16:36:00 2005
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Butterick Costume" IS it a possible double
  mistake"?
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>   I now believe  the overskirt is placed
>incorrectly on the mannequin. It is a dress with  an (originally attached)
>overskirt that should be placed with the opening  in the front.  I am 
>looking at
>several construction line drawings and  photographs of several mantuas in 
>Avril
>Hart's Fashion in Detail as well as the  Clive House mantua in Janet Arnold.
>What I am seeing is, these mantuas are  open completely at the front and what
>appears to the be the back is actually the  front edges folded back to meet
>and fall gracefully, either in semi-pressed  folds or a looser, graceful fall
>of the fabric.  This gown appears to not  be constructed at all like the
>mantuas I am seeing.
>
>The one thing I am a bit distressed about is this:  the overskirt  should
>actually have been connected at the back bodice, so that a mistake  like this
>should not have happened.  Apparently this one at some point  became 
>separated.
>Some of these mistakes are due to the fact that a  garment was used in an
>early 20th c. theatrical setting, and was therefore  altered to what 
>suited the
>needs of the director at the time.  Others were  altered during the colonial
>revival period so that they could be worn, with the  mindset of the late
>Victorian era we have seen some really strange alterations,  all neatly 
>done by hand
>so that a relatively untrained eye could be fooled into  thinking that they
>were original.
>
>I believe Suzi is giving the exhibit designers at the Met way too much
>credit.  I see mistakenly draped (& dated!) mannequins in museums all  the 
>time.


There are three court mantuas in the Victoria and Albert Museum.
One, "A gown and petticoat..The skirt is folded sides to centre, but the 
train would seem to be missing". Two "A gown and petticoat......the 
bodice.continues into a basque to which is joined a hem length tail, 
pleated sides to centre.
Three "A gown and petticoat....robings which merge with the skirt. These 
are draped into basques.the skirt is folded sides to centre; the end, 
embroidered in lighter style, drapes up etc."

These are all photographed in the same way as the  gown under discussion. I 
believe the so called ruffles at the waist are actually the basques as 
described in the V and A book "Four Hundred Years of Fashion" from which 
the above quotes are taken.

There are similar mantuas at Blaise Castle, Bath, and at the Museum of 
London - the one I am working with, which is also photographed in the same 
fashion. I cannot find the Dutch "Festival" gown I was looking for, but 
that is the same.

Are you suggesting that all these curators/exhibit designers are incorrect? 
I think that is hardly likely.

Suzi


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At 09:02 21/03/2005 -0500, you wrote:

> > I am sure, from what he said, he also wants ordinary women, and
> > those I do not have except at the edges of paintings where they
> > are too small, even under magnification, to see any detail.
>
>Hi Suzi,
>
>      The Laroon street cries prints are good for early 18thC common
>clothing.  Of course, for any web page it's a matter of finding an
>original (out of copyright) edition or getting permission from
>someone who has one.  I have a book that was printed around 1985, so
>it's under copyright.
>
>      -Carol


Thank you so much - I had forgot Laroon - and I have some images doh!!

Suzi


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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net (Elena O'Tighearnaigh)
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Now who's gonna...was a possible double mistake"?
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Ok, now that we've discovered this:

Who's gonna tell the folks at the Met?

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> Melody, I think you have hit the nail directly on the head. I have largely 
> ignored the thread, because I never in my life have seen a dress with such a 
> front as the one on the Butterick pattern and figured it was not worth my 
> while to discuss it since so many others were having such fun, and was really 
> surprised to see the Met dress. I then put it down to the fact that there is 
> always an exception to every rule! However, I did not notice the link to the 
> other photos until you mentioned it. I now believe the overskirt is placed 
> incorrectly on the mannequin. It is a dress with an (originally attached) 
> overskirt that should be placed with the opening in the front. I am looking at 
> several construction line drawings and photographs of several mantuas in Avril 
> Hart's Fashion in Detail as well as the Clive House mantua in Janet Arnold. 
> What I am seeing is, these mantuas are open completely at the front and what 
> appears to the be the back is actually the front edges folded back to meet 
> and fall gracefully, either in semi-pressed folds or a looser, graceful fall 
> of the fabric. This gown appears to not be constructed at all like the 
> mantuas I am seeing. 
> 
> The one thing I am a bit distressed about is this: the overskirt should 
> actually have been connected at the back bodice, so that a mistake like this 
> should not have happened. Apparently this one at some point became separated. 
> Some of these mistakes are due to the fact that a garment was used in an 
> early 20th c. theatrical setting, and was therefore altered to what suited the 
> needs of the director at the time. Others were altered during the colonial 
> revival period so that they could be worn, with the mindset of the late 
> Victorian era we have seen some really strange alterations, all neatly done by 
> hand 
> so that a relatively untrained eye could be fooled into thinking that they 
> were original. 
> 
> I believe Suzi is giving the exhibit designers at the Met way too much 
> credit. I see mistakenly draped (& dated!) mannequins in museums all the time. 
> There is a mid-18c "maternity" gown in a book I have that is placed completely 
> backwards on the mannequin and isn't any more a maternity gown than any 
> other gown of its period. The pleats that should align either side of a front 
> stomacher are left hanging down the back like some child's leading strings! 
> Again, there is always an exception. However, most of those didn't make it 
> into museum displays. 
> 
> Best regards, 
> Susannah 
> 
> Susannah Eanes, Mantua Maker and Fine Tailoring 
> _www.virginvintage.com_ (http://www.virginvintage.com) 
> 
> "We are only the trustees for those who come after us." --William Morris 
> _______________________________________________ 
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net (Elena O'Tighearnaigh)
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Leprosy bandages
Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2005 15:30:17 +0000
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This is just so uncanny.  I've been packing up and lo and behold!  I found my grandma's crochet hooks!  I'm sure I've got a ball of white crochet thread around here somewhere.......no wait!  I'm supposed to be *packing*!  

*sigh*

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> > http://www.bevscountrycottage.com/bandages.html 
> 
> Thanks so much for posting this website, and for a trip down memory 
> lane. My grandmother used to knit these back in the 60's and it was one 
> of the few knitting projects I have ever done, mostly because she was 
> doing it. I don't really knit but love to crochet (and can do it just 
> about anywhere, like when riding in a car) and per this website, you can 
> crochet these too. This type of project can sometimes be very soothing, 
> no pattern or stitch change to keep track of and easy to have on hand. 
> Off to get a ball of cotton. 
> 
> Thanks again! 
> Catherine 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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Oops, sorry, that was a private message. I have no _idea_ how it got to the list!

-----

____________________________________________________________
0  Chris Laning
|  <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
____________________________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Now who's gonna...was a possible double mistake"?
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At 14:20 21/03/2005 +0000, you wrote:
>Ok, now that we've discovered this:
>
>Who's gonna tell the folks at the Met?


And the V and A and the Museum of London, and The Museum of Costume at 
Bath, and all the other costume museums in the world?

This is not on back to front - please read my post. These are court 
mantuas. This is what they should look like. This is how they are displayed 
in every museum that has them. They cannot all be wrong, when this is what 
the costume is made to do. It is a petticoat, which is spread over the 
panier. The gown has a skirt which is "made" to be turned back on itself - 
that is how the seams are made, on the outside. I have seen the insides of 
more than one mantua, and this is what they are made like.

See Janet Arnold's notes on the construction of the mantua in her book. 
There are also other notes on other mantuas in "Costume" the journal of the 
Costume Society. Somewhere I have seen a whole article on the construction 
of mantuas, which I thought was in "Costume" but I am missing a couple of 
copies and cannot find it. They were from the V and A mostly, and were not 
all court mantuas by any means.

The whole mantua idea was based on the man's banyan shaped garment, at the 
end of the 17th century. This is one reason why stripes go round the arm, 
instead of up and down. I can explain in more detail if anyone is interested.

Suzi


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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sandra Olsen" <sandraleigh@abraxis.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, March 21, 2005 1:18 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Butterick Costume


> Do you suppose that this dress
> http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/eudr/hob_CI.65.13.1a-c.htm
> is what the designers at Butterick were trying to replicate? It has the
> same "flat" ruffle at the bottom and rather severe hips.
>
> I wonder why the real dress looks so much better than the pattern...
> Maybe the fabric they picked for the pattern was too heavy.
>

I think the way Butterick have constructed the double skirt doesn't help to
make it look good If you click on the description it suggests that you can
see an underskirt to quote the description "It is open at the front, with a
decorative bodice insert called a stomacher covering the corset and an
underskirt, the petticoat, showing under the splayed drapery of the
overskirt." (I don't know why they've written that, I can only see one skirt
in the picture) and I think perhaps the designer has interpreted the seams
that run down the skirt as a split. The ruffles at the end of the sleeves
have also been poorly done in the Butterick version. I think this probably
is the garment they have based it on as the resemblance is too strong to be
just a coincidence.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole@iimetro.com.au

Mr. Speaker, I said the honourable member was a liar it is true and I am
sorry for it. The honourable member may place the punctuation where he
pleases.
Richard Brinsley Sheridan (1751-1816) British dramatist. On being asked to
apologise for calling a fellow MP a liar. Attrib.

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Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:

> I still wonder why I'd take the time to knit bandages instead of sending 
> money to organizations that provide medical care to these people...

Some folks have more time than they have money, so it's a reasonable 
other option.  But if you've got some money, sending it for the drugs 
that cure it (when caught early enough) is probably better in the long run.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

Happy MidSpring to everyone!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Butterick Costume" IS it a possible double mistake"
 ?
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otsisto wrote:

> Note: the side view photo. The sleeve ruffle is not lace like the other
> pictures and I think that the neck ruffle is also different. And you may be
> right about the skirt being on backwards. :)

I think the side view photo may be newer, as I found another picture of 
this dress associated with another exhibit from 2001-2002:

http://www.metmuseum.org/special/Extreme_Beauty/11.L.htm

My book (1987) and the other photos both clearly show _lace_ ruffles at 
the sleeve and neckline (the lace is very clear in the book).

Since none of the descriptions mention the lace, I'm betting it is not 
original to the dress. The museum doesn't seem to mind mixing it out 
once in a while with various different examples.



Dawn



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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Leprosy bandages info
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Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:

> I still wonder why I'd take the time to knit bandages instead of 
> sending money to organizations that provide medical care to these 
> people...
>
Because you have more time than money.
Because the bandages are needed. 

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

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OK.  Speaking of kirtles, I just finished one and have to ask.  Who came up with spiral lacing?!  It takes forever to get into and out of this dress.  I just had to do both Sunday for an arts judging.  Is there some quicker way of doing this?  I only unlaced about the first 5 inches and then loosened the laces to the waist.

What do you use for a lace?  I'm working on a lucet cord.  I used hemp cord in the meantime and it snarled ferociously.  I haven't been able to make a fingerlooped braid long enough.
Julie
> 
> 
> Funny you should ask this right now as I am doing that kirtle and had the same question (as well as how close to put the eyelets).  I decided that the grids were an inch apart and the eyelets seem be on the grid so I made them an inch apart.  I read everything I could find and she only states that they are sewn but doesn't mention the color of the thread.  That may be because the back of the garment was in pretty bad shape due to being under the body for so long and the colors were changed.  Personally, I am going with the fabric color so they won't show up since making a bazillion eyelets isn't my favorite occupation and they get a bit sloppy at times.  Thread the color of the fabric isn't as noticable.  Are you making the ropa too?  I haven't even started that and I need it for an event the first weekend in April.  Where does the time go?

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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lacing Eyelets
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Julie wrote:

>OK.  Speaking of kirtles, I just finished one and have to ask.  Who came up with spiral lacing?!  It takes forever to get into and out of this dress.  I just had to do both Sunday for an arts judging.  Is there some quicker way of doing this?  I only unlaced about the first 5 inches and then loosened the laces to the waist.
>
>  
>
If you want to lace up quickly, I recommend either using a large, blunt 
needle or reinforcing the tips of your laces so that they don't fray.


>What do you use for a lace?  I'm working on a lucet cord.  I used hemp cord in the meantime and it snarled ferociously.  I haven't been able to make a fingerlooped braid long enough.
>  
>
Hemp cord sounds messy.  I would use lucet cord if I had the patience to 
make it, but 1/4-in wide twill tape works well.


-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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Another idea is to sew a thin aglet onto the end. I've dont that with my 
bodies (corset) lacing and it works well.

Glenda.

>>
> If you want to lace up quickly, I recommend either using a large, blunt 
> needle or reinforcing the tips of your laces so that they don't fray.
>
>
>
> -- 
> Adele de Maisieres
>
> -----------------------------
> Quot homines, tot sententiae.
> ----------------------------- 
>
> _______________________________________________
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In a message dated 3/21/2005 4:03:13 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
suzi@suziclarke.co.uk writes:

No need  to shoot the messenger 


I wouldn't dream of it. There's nothing hostile about my  post.
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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Now who's gonna...was a possible double mistake"?
Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2005 14:15:31 +1200
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For those who aren't familiar with mantua these are some that Suzi has
referred to.

http://images.vam.ac.uk

Type in Mantua and you can see that each mantua in the V&A is constructed
differently anyway.

So I don't understand why people can't see that this is a mantua with a
different folding arangement at the back.

http://www.kipar.demon.co.uk/female_rococo4_body.html
http://www.kipar.demon.co.uk/female_rococo3_body.html
http://www.kipar.demon.co.uk/female_rococo1_body.html
Other views.

http://www.hrp.org.uk/webcode/content.asp?ID=405
http://www.walespast.com/article.shtml?id=53&image=4
Other mantuas.

http://www.tulliehouse.co.uk/fine_costume.htm
One that looks remarkably like the Met Museum arrangement.

Personally I favour the very early mantua, even though it is worn with those
very silly fontages;)

michaela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com

> See Janet Arnold's notes on the construction of the mantua in her book.
> There are also other notes on other mantuas in "Costume" the journal of
the
> Costume Society. Somewhere I have seen a whole article on the construction
> of mantuas, which I thought was in "Costume" but I am missing a couple of
> copies and cannot find it. They were from the V and A mostly, and were not
> all court mantuas by any means.



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Leprosy bandages info
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> Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:
>
>> I still wonder why I'd take the time to knit bandages instead of sending 
>> money to organizations that provide medical care to these people...
>
> Some folks have more time than they have money, so it's a reasonable other 
> option.  But if you've got some money, sending it for the drugs that cure 
> it (when caught early enough) is probably better in the long run.
>
> -- 
> Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

My post really came across as pretty rude and insensitive, didn't it? Now 
that I re-read it... I apologize, I really didn't intend it this way.

I just meant to say that today, to my knowledge, leprosy is pretty easy to 
cure, and that if we could treat it when it first appears, then it would be 
great because people wouldn't need those bandages anymore. Is that better? 
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Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:

> I just meant to say that today, to my knowledge, leprosy is pretty easy 
> to cure, and that if we could treat it when it first appears, then it 
> would be great because people wouldn't need those bandages anymore. Is 
> that better? 

I didn't mind the first version, so I'm cool.

However, when I read about the bandages, I realized that I didn't know 
much about it, so finally found a page at the World Health Organization 
about the current state of knowledge and treatment.  It can be cured if 
caught early, but catching it early in remote areas is a problem.

"Over the past 20 years, more than 12 million leprosy patients have been 
cured. The prevalence rate of the disease has dropped by 90% and leprosy 
has been eliminated from 108 countries out of 122 countries where 
leprosy was considered as a public health problem in 1985."

New cases per year are now under the 800,000 mark.

There's lots more here:

http://www.who.int/mediacentre/factsheets/fs101/en/
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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Leprosy bandages info
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Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:

>
> My post really came across as pretty rude and insensitive, didn't it? 
> Now that I re-read it... I apologize, I really didn't intend it this way.
>
> I just meant to say that today, to my knowledge, leprosy is pretty 
> easy to cure, and that if we could treat it when it first appears, 
> then it would be great because people wouldn't need those bandages 
> anymore.


Yes, leprosy is easy to cure _if it's caught soon enough_.  The fact is 
that it's often not caught so soon that patients begin treatment before 
developing any lesions. Thus people still need bandages.  So, by all 
means, donate money to the WHO or other agencies-- it will do some good, 
but it won't suddenly make bandages obsolete.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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In a message dated 3/21/2005 9:20:04 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
thebruce@ihug.co.nz writes:

For  those who aren't familiar with mantua these are some that Suzi has
referred  to.



Well, I'm convinced!  However, it still doesn't explain why Butterick  chose 
to do a rather poor interpretation of European court dress.
 
Ann Wass
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From: Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lacing Eyelets
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I am afraid to total them up for fear I will just quit and never finish.  Actually, there are sixteen on each side of the back and fifteen on each armhole and fifteen on each sleeve.  I have done the back and one armhole and all but three on the other armhole.  On to the sleeves next.  I must admit that I am almighty sick of making eyelets about now!!!!

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- J Schueller <jaurbik@optonline.net> wrote:

From: J Schueller <jaurbik@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Mar 2005 12:35:03 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lacing Eyelets

Actually, I am just making an underdress to go with a flemish overdress, 
but it is fairly like the dorthea von something dress, so it is only 
about 44(total, not pairs! as I am placeing them for sprial lacing), as 
I am placing them 2 cm apart.  On my last underdress I made them an inch 
apart, but I also put three of the small plastic noodles from rigaline 
into the seem.  Since I am not doing that in this dress(they ending up 
pooking out of the fabric at the ends and I want to see what happens 
without them), I wanted the eyelets to be closer.   

I did look at the pictures and saw that though she did not mention the 
color, the thread looked white on the white fabric, and dark on the dark 
fabric.  Of course, since the pictures are black and white, I don't know 
exactlly ehat it means, but you take your chances. 

My main problem is that I made both my last sest of flemish and this set 
reverable, and since I made one layer blue and the other bighe, which 
side do I choice to blen with?   I decided to blend with the blue, but I 
thought someone on this list might have done more to reserch it.  I have 
also(this morning, after I have done 6 already), decided that a rust 
color that I have would have looked nicer with the bighe side, and would 
have looked ok with the blue also, but was wondering if there was any 
documentaion for contrasting or not thread.   (since I don't have any 
choice and the thread will contrast with at least one side o the dress)
 
Lalah-how  many holes does that leave you with making? I was thinging of 
making that, but was not sure I wanted to do that many holes!

Less layt then this morning, (I have already done three holes, started 
laundry, put away laundry, scrubed bathtub, and repotted two plants!)
Jordana

Lalah wrote:

>Funny you should ask this right now as I am doing that kirtle and had the same question (as well as how close to put the eyelets).  I decided that the grids were an inch apart and the eyelets seem be on the grid so I made them an inch apart.  I read everything I could find and she only states that they are sewn but doesn't mention the color of the thread.  That may be because the back of the garment was in pretty bad shape due to being under the body for so long and the colors were changed.  Personally, I am going with the fabric color so they won't show up since making a bazillion eyelets isn't my favorite occupation and they get a bit sloppy at times.  Thread the color of the fabric isn't as noticable.  Are you making the ropa too?  I haven't even started that and I need it for an event the first weekend in April.  Where does the time go?
>
>Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender
>
>
>--- J Schueller <jaurbik@optonline.net> wrote:
>
>From: J Schueller <jaurbik@optonline.net>
>Date: Sun, 20 Mar 2005 10:22:25 -0500
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] Lacing Eyelets
>
>Ok, weird question.  I am in the process of  putting in innumerable 
>lacing eyelets in a kirtle.  While I am too lazy to go to the basement 
>to find Janet Arnolds Patterns of Fashion( i will do so when i  put more 
>layers on-it is just too cold  to go down there in thin stuff) I think 
>that she does show some close-ups of actual eyelets. 
>
>However, does she or anyone else talk about the color of the stitching? 
>Anyone know if it was mostly same color, or was the color a contrasting 
>thread?  Does anyone have pictorial evidence that they base their thread 
>choice on when making lacing holes?
>
>Puzzeled and lazy,
>Jordana
>
>
>
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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net (Elena O'Tighearnaigh)
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: OOps was Re: [h-cost] Now who's gonna...
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ok, I was just asking....I'm sorry...

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> For those who aren't familiar with mantua these are some that Suzi has 
> referred to. 
> 
> http://images.vam.ac.uk 
> 
> Type in Mantua and you can see that each mantua in the V&A is constructed 
> differently anyway. 
> 
> So I don't understand why people can't see that this is a mantua with a 
> different folding arangement at the back. 
> 
> http://www.kipar.demon.co.uk/female_rococo4_body.html 
> http://www.kipar.demon.co.uk/female_rococo3_body.html 
> http://www.kipar.demon.co.uk/female_rococo1_body.html 
> Other views. 
> 
> http://www.hrp.org.uk/webcode/content.asp?ID=405 
> http://www.walespast.com/article.shtml?id=53&image=4 
> Other mantuas. 
> 
> http://www.tulliehouse.co.uk/fine_costume.htm 
> One that looks remarkably like the Met Museum arrangement. 
> 
> Personally I favour the very early mantua, even though it is worn with those 
> very silly fontages;) 
> 
> michaela de bruce 
> http://glittersweet.com 
> 
> > See Janet Arnold's notes on the construction of the mantua in her book. 
> > There are also other notes on other mantuas in "Costume" the journal of 
> the 
> > Costume Society. Somewhere I have seen a whole article on the construction 
> > of mantuas, which I thought was in "Costume" but I am missing a couple of 
> > copies and cannot find it. They were from the V and A mostly, and were not 
> > all court mantuas by any means. 
> 
> 
> 
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: Portefraes - translation request
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> From: Lena Strid <lstrid@mglarc.com>
> Not Dutch myself, but one of my work mates is. This is her translation:
<snip>

Please present her with my profuse thanks!

> *: this is assuming that the original word is misspelt and that they meant
> 'steun'.

mea culpa. my typo not the museum's.

> P.S. What is a portefraes?

supportasse/ porte fraise, golilla, underpropper... whatever your
language, it holds up a ruff.

> Is this the supportasse from the "Beguines" nunnery? If so, I have a
> drawing made by a friend - it does sound awfully like it. It is broken,
> joins with a hook and loop, and the "spokes" are a double wire, with a
> "neck" and a "head" or "lobe" shape. If not, I would love to see a picture.

The museum offers a provenance & literature list that does not
indicate a nunnery. "Aankoop veiling B. de Tracy, Gent, 21.22 April
1952". With a squint & liberally applied imagination, I can see the
wire twists mentioned in the catalog description.
The broken bits, the semi-anthropomorphic (it's a real stretch) wire
elements are kinda-sorta familiar. This one has wire windings at the
neck size opening. There is no indication of any fabric covering now
or previously.

Sure happy to swap ya.  My crap b/w pic should run thru the scanner
ok. Could you pass along your Beguine nunnery info and drawing?  I'm
interested in doing a 1600 gown w/ open robe (per the lovely V&A one)
& gigantic ruff so it needs IMHO a supportasse.  Art historians go on
about the wire frameworks used to support Dutch ruffs & seem to imply
that this is different from covered(?) English ones.  I'm currently
questing for extant examples and with this Dutch one for a child, I'm
worried I've gone a bit far afield.

And again, many thanks to Lena's office mate,
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com
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Hi Penny, I am not getting all the posts.  Did you ever get the Url you 
needed and did Ms Ryan respond?
Thanks,

Still curious!
Sg

Penny Ladnier wrote:

> JP Ryan, who has student this period extensively, is interested in the 
> mystery item.  Can someone please post the URL again so I can forward 
> it to her. Janice is one of our instructors.  She is not a list member 
> but is willing to look it over and give her input, for me to pass 
> along to you all.
>
> Penny Ladnier, owner
> The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
> Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
> Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Butterick Costume" IS it a possible double mistake"?
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Suzi, Not at all!  Each of your examples is "a gown and  petticoat."  The Met 
gown is clearly not a "gown and petticoat," but (now)  a one-piece example 
(was it in period?  We cannot tell!).  I cannot  make the link between your 
examples and the Met dress because I cannot see the  examples to which you refer.  
Is it possible that you could give us a link  to photographs of any of them?  
Then we can try to understand your  points.
 
In scholarship,
Best regards,
Susannah
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It's intersting to see the permutations that everyday costume go through when it becomes court costume.
 
My first thought is six foot wide panniers??...Good for an ostentateous display of weathy, but they don't fit into my template of "attractive".  And they must have been a bear to manipulate in a social situation.
but then I think about the mid 19th century crinoline, just about as big sideway, and way bigger front to back.  For some reason, this variation does not look so "odd/off" to me

Mia in Charlotte

		
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Butterick Costume" IS it a possible double
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At 08:19 22/03/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>Suzi, Not at all!  Each of your examples is "a gown and  petticoat."  The Met
>gown is clearly not a "gown and petticoat," but (now)  a one-piece example
>(was it in period?  We cannot tell!).  I cannot  make the link between your
>examples and the Met dress because I cannot see the  examples to which you 
>refer.
>Is it possible that you could give us a link  to photographs of any of them?
>Then we can try to understand your  points.
>


The images I have are all copyright to the museums and I cannot give links. 
The one I am working with is also not available for public view, 
unfortunately, and I so depend on the good will of museums here, I cannot 
go against them. However, Michaela has given several examples in her post, 
including one which is very similar to the one in question.

To be honest, I don't see that the Met one is any different - I am seeing a 
gown and petticoat, not a gown. Has anyone actually seen this beastie, and 
can comment? Or does anyone have contacts at the Met and can ask?

Suzi


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In a message dated 3/22/2005 9:04:25 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
snappylunch_2001@yahoo.com writes:

It's  intersting to see the permutations that everyday costume go through 
when it  becomes court costume.



My very favorite for outright oddity is the early 19th century British  court 
costume--still required panniers and train, but adopted the high waist of  
the time, so the panniers are almost up under the armpits!  The gowns had  to be 
hideously expensive, and couldn't have been worn anywhere but at  court.  I 
would love to know if they could be rented, or if there was a  brisk trade in 
second-hand gowns, or if they were all just cut up and made into  other things 
after the appearance at court.
 
Ann Wass
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I recently had a similar problem.  A DVD I got for Christmas was coded for the UK only.  However I have a DVD burner on my PC at work.  Most PC's will not stop you from using foreign DVDs.  Using some publicly available software I was able to copy my DVD and when it did it removed the region code from the new DVD I burned.  Yes, this did take a little bit of work but as far as I know this does not violate copywrite laws.  The copy was for my personal use and I own the original.  Since the DVD is unavailable with a US region code it's not like I had any other options.

BjÇ«rn Arnaldsson 
 
Lord Bjorn Arnaldsson
Barony of Black Diamond 
 



>
>Elizabeth is right about the zones, but multi-zone DVD players 
>aren't all that hard to find, nor are they necessarily more 
>expensive. My husband and I bought our multi-zone DVD player 
>18 months ago from J&B Hi-Fi ( which seems to have shops in 
>every state except the Northern Territory ) for 
>AUS$150.00-ish. Yes, it was on special, but the normal price 
>wasn't so much dearer. It isn't a brand we had ever heard of, 
>but it does what it is supposed to, which is to play DVDs.
>DVD record/write/rewrite/play on the other hand..... they are 
>much more expensive. ( One day, one day..... ;-)  )
>
>Joannah ( in Brisbane, Australia )
>

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Maybe because they're "round" and not "flat" in appearance? Perhaps our
modern aesthetic prefers the one over the other....
I think folks react similarly to an earlier example of this sort of
thing--most people I know personally, when looking at a gown with a
french farthingale (late 16th, early 17th c.), find them awkward or
silly looking or down-right ugly.  I suspect that if we had lived in
that cultural environment, we would have seen the fashion as extreme,
perhaps, but as a natural extension of styles with which we were already
familiar, so it wouldn't have struck us as quite so odd.
--sue's two pence worth

Mia Dappert wrote:
> It's intersting to see the permutations that everyday costume go
> through when it becomes court costume.
> 
> My first thought is six foot wide panniers??...Good for an
> ostentateous display of weathy, but they don't fit into my template
> of "attractive".  And they must have been a bear to manipulate in a
> social situation. but then I think about the mid 19th century
> crinoline, just about as big sideway, and way bigger front to back.
> For some reason, this variation does not look so "odd/off" to me
>

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Susanna, Where exactly are you located?  I see you do "stuff" at Latta plantation outside of Charlotte, NC.  It might be worth looking into the Mint Museum here in Charlotte.  They have a surprising amount of things in their costume collection.  I don't know exactly what, but they just recently did a mid 19th century display that had 10 or so full dresses, and they had plans for another exhibit of equal size.  I thik , off the top of my head, the costume curators mname is Richard Moe, but I can find out for sure.
 
You are welcome at our house ( as is anyone on the list.)
 
Mia Dappert, of the 64th of foot, trying to improve her impression and the rest of the unit every day
also, Mrs. Judge Robert Irwin at the Polk house in Pineville, NC (ca. 1800)

 
		
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At 08:57 22/03/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>Suzi,
>I still think we are not seeing the same things --I cannot relate your
>descriptions to either the Met gown or the references I used 
>originally.   If you
>can, please direct us to the gowns to which you refer; I am certain 
>that  would
>help.

http://images.vam.ac.uk/ixbin/hixclient.exe?_IXSS_=%2asform=search_form%26_IXMAXHITS_=15%26_IXDB_=default%26%24%3dIXALL=Mantua%26_IXSESSION_=&_IXSR_=bm1&_IXSPFX_=full/t&_IXMAXHITS_=1&_IXFIRST_=2&submit-button=summary&_IXSESSION_=

This is one at the V and A, as referenced by Michaela. What you are seeing 
on the bottom half of the figure is the petticoat. This has a simple 
fastening at the back waist. The gown folds back at the waist, and if you 
struggle to look very carefully you will see, in the gap between the arms 
and the torso, a small dark area. This is where the fold occurs. The back 
skirts will then be pleated or folded as required. They would never have 
been wide enough to fit over the petticoat, which, in a court mantua, was 
never open.



>
>I have to agree with you that in general, court mantuas are very
>individually (even oddly!) constructed, and reflect more than likely 
>the  creative
>impulse of a particular dressmaker (mantua maker!) as well as 
>the  seasonal whims of
>fashion afforded by the extremely wealthy of the period.   And yes, we know
>that the petticoat is constructed to go back on itself.

No, sorry to disagree again. It is the gown that is constructed to fold 
back on itself. The petticoat is plain and simple to show off the fabric.

>  My point is:  the
>other mantuas are _open in the front_, and placed over a  petticoat, which is
>clearly visible.

These are specifically not court mantuas - they are "every day" if you can 
have such a thing.
>This one is closed and you cannot see  the petticoat because
>the front has no open seams or open edges at all.

No, what you see is the petticoat, unless there have been major, major 
alterations. This mantua is not closed, but folded back at the waist. There 
is not enough material in the gown (court mantua) to fold back.

>  _Unlike the other mantuas._
>The other mantuas back folds are actually the  "front" edges, if you will,
>folded or draped around the body to the back.   This one is not folded 
>from the
>front at all.  Unless you are seeing  something that I am just missing.

See my explanation further back. This 
http://www.hrp.org.uk/webcode/content.asp?ID=405 mantua appears to have 
ruffles at the waist - I think this is the fabric turned back on itself. 
You can see it more clearly 
here.http://www.kipar.demon.co.uk/rococo/female/dress3_detail2.jpg (Thanks 
to Michaela for the images, and Nicole for the original photos.)


>.  In my experience, most  exhibit designers are not costume
>experts, but are very knowledgeable in the  field of museum studies, 
>conservation,
>or art history.  Our interests  are very, very focused and it is a rare 
>museum
>professional (altho' we all can  name several!!) who is also a costume --or
>even textiles --expert.

In England the exhibits are designed by experts, but in close consultation 
with the professional costume curatorial staff, who dress the stands, and 
arrange the costumes. In fact one of the curators at the Museum of London 
has gone on to design and mount exhibitions in other museums, so I think 
that maybe your experience and mine are very different.

Suzi




>
>Best regards,
>Susannah
>
>Susannah Eanes, Mantua Maker and Fine Tailoring
>_www.virginvintage.com_ (http://www.virginvintage.com)
>
>"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."  --William  Morris
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Subject: [h-cost] THANK YOU ...was a possible double mistake"?
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thanks so much for pics!!
 
>http://images.vam.ac.uk    - and others...
The  Leconte mantua here does appear to have a similarly constructed front.   
However, the back appears to be the same type of folding arrangement as some 
I  did see, and does not look like the Met example.  The notes do  say this 
gown was altered in the 1920s.... does anyone know how?  

>http://www.tulliehouse.co.uk/fine_costume.htm
>One that looks  remarkably like the Met Museum arrangement.
Yes, except from the tiny pic it does appear as if the pleats on this one  
are in the front??????  Wish I could see better....
 
The other images don't show enough detail or do not show the back at all  for 
us to be able to make a determination as to construction.  So the  search 
continues...
 
Thanks again!
 
Best, Susannah
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Sounds like the officer who told my sister that her birth certificate was
expired.  I figure she must be the only person on the planet with an expired
birth certificate.

Gwenhyfar

> ----- Original Message ----- 
>
> > I guess either customs didn't have an xray machine to run the bear
through
> > or the man was being a down right A-H.
> > De
> >
>




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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Now who's gonna...was a possible double mistake"?
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Suzi,
I still think we are not seeing the same things --I cannot relate your  
descriptions to either the Met gown or the references I used originally.   If you 
can, please direct us to the gowns to which you refer; I am certain that  would 
help.
 
I have to agree with you that in general, court mantuas are very  
individually (even oddly!) constructed, and reflect more than likely the  creative 
impulse of a particular dressmaker (mantua maker!) as well as the  seasonal whims of 
fashion afforded by the extremely wealthy of the period.   And yes, we know 
that the petticoat is constructed to go back on itself.   My point is:  the 
other mantuas are _open in the front_, and placed over a  petticoat, which is 
clearly visible.  This one is closed and you cannot see  the petticoat because 
the front has no open seams or open edges at all.   _Unlike the other mantuas._  
The other mantuas back folds are actually the  "front" edges, if you will, 
folded or draped around the body to the back.   This one is not folded from the 
front at all.  Unless you are seeing  something that I am just missing.  I 
think photos of your examples would  help.  I am certainly not the world's expert 
on mantuas, and am not trying  to argue.  H-costume has always been, to me, 
the forum by which I learn and  share what I have learned.  Actually, I feel a 
study visit to actually  view mantuas (not just in pictures & diagrams!) in 
some  American collections coming on.... are there any that anyone knows of at  
CW, in Richmond, Winterthur, or any private collections south of the 
Mason/Dixon  line that anyone can recommend?  I don't have travel resources to go up  
North just now.
 
The sack-back gown was slightly later than these pre-mid 18c gowns, so  
cannot see the tie-in that someone else referred to there.  One cannot  imitate a 
look that hasn't happened yet in the historical timeline.
 
And as for informing the Met, I do not know anyone there.  I believe  as far 
as museums settings overall, that eventually the general scholarship will  
improve.  I will not enumerate the countless errors I have observed in  museum 
exhibits, out of respect for the hard and valuable work that they  do.  They are 
performing a good and valuable service by collecting,  housing, and 
conserving these artifacts from which we can learn a great  deal.  Remember what kinds 
of things we used to see in museums in the 1960s  - 1980s.  As we get 
information out into the public realm, the museums  generally pick up the information 
and apply it.  In my experience, most  exhibit designers are not costume 
experts, but are very knowledgeable in the  field of museum studies, conservation, 
or art history.  Our interests  are very, very focused and it is a rare museum 
professional (altho' we all can  name several!!) who is also a costume --or 
even textiles --expert.
 
Best regards,
Susannah
 
Susannah Eanes, Mantua Maker and Fine Tailoring
_www.virginvintage.com_ (http://www.virginvintage.com) 
 
"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."  --William  Morris
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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net (Elena O'Tighearnaigh)
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: WAy OT Re: [h-cost] Re: OT? Bad Phish
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Oh...That is just *too* funny!  I suppose he busted her for not having her death certificate?

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> Sounds like the officer who told my sister that her birth certificate was 
> expired. I figure she must be the only person on the planet with an expired 
> birth certificate. 
> 
> Gwenhyfar 
> 
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > 
> > > I guess either customs didn't have an xray machine to run the bear 
> through 
> > > or the man was being a down right A-H. 
> > > De 
> > > 
> > 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Butterick Costume" IS it a possible ......."? I
	wonder.....
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Status: RO

 I thought the bodice ended in what looked like tabs,
much like the Elizabethean tabbed bodices, The front
is a little dark to see but the back view is better,
which is what put me to wondering if this was a 2
piece outfit. The large court hooped gown in the
Arnold book,PoF 1660-80 (p.34 1745-55 The V & A
museum) is shown as a continous line,no trim or
ruffles or tabs at the outside waistline, only bows on
the stomacher.
 Melody
--- AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:
>  
> In a message dated 3/21/2005 7:38:13 A.M. Eastern
> Standard Time,  
> Susannah9810@aol.com writes:
> 
> Melody,  I think you have hit the nail directly on
> the head.
> 
> 
> I was going to advise that we not judge too hastily,
> as the possibly  
> Venetian court dress in the Kyoto book looks similar
> from the front, but, after  
> seeing the back of both it and the dress at the Met,
> it does seem that the Met's  
> is backwards, doesn't it.  Also, the ruffle around
> the waist of the bodice  is 
> clearly visible, leading me to believe even more
> strongly that the Butterick  
> pattern was loosely based on this dress.  If the
> garment has been modified  
> through the years, do you think that ruffle is a
> later addition,  too? 
>  
> Ann Wass 
> _______________________________________________
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> 


		
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Portefraes - translation request
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>
> > P.S. What is a portefraes?
>
>supportasse/ porte fraise, golilla, underpropper... whatever your
>language, it holds up a ruff.
>
> > Is this the supportasse from the "Beguines" nunnery? If so, I have a
> > drawing made by a friend - it does sound awfully like it. It is broken,
> > joins with a hook and loop, and the "spokes" are a double wire, with a
> > "neck" and a "head" or "lobe" shape. If not, I would love to see a picture.
>
>The museum offers a provenance & literature list that does not
>indicate a nunnery. "Aankoop veiling B. de Tracy, Gent, 21.22 April
>1952". With a squint & liberally applied imagination, I can see the
>wire twists mentioned in the catalog description.
>The broken bits, the semi-anthropomorphic (it's a real stretch) wire
>elements are kinda-sorta familiar. This one has wire windings at the
>neck size opening. There is no indication of any fabric covering now
>or previously.
>
>Sure happy to swap ya.  My crap b/w pic should run thru the scanner
>ok. Could you pass along your Beguine nunnery info and drawing?  I'm
>interested in doing a 1600 gown w/ open robe (per the lovely V&A one)
>& gigantic ruff so it needs IMHO a supportasse.  Art historians go on
>about the wire frameworks used to support Dutch ruffs & seem to imply
>that this is different from covered(?) English ones.  I'm currently
>questing for extant examples and with this Dutch one for a child, I'm
>worried I've gone a bit far afield.

I'll see if I can find it among the chaos that is currently my workroom.

Suzi


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From: Lady Satine <seamuslady@yahoo.com>
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ROFL!!!!!!  
 
satine

Elena O'Tighearnaigh <elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net> wrote:
Oh...That is just *too* funny! I suppose he busted her for not having her death certificate?

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> Sounds like the officer who told my sister that her birth certificate was 
> expired. I figure she must be the only person on the planet with an expired 
> birth certificate. 
> 
> Gwenhyfar 
> 
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > 
> > > I guess either customs didn't have an xray machine to run the bear 
> through 
> > > or the man was being a down right A-H. 
> > > De 
> > > 
> > 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> No virus found in this outgoing message. 
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. 
> Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.8.0 - Release Date: 3/21/2005 
> 
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Quoting h-costume-request@indra.com:
> To be honest, I don't see that the Met one is any different - I am seeing a
> gown and petticoat, not a gown. Has anyone actually seen this beastie, and
> can comment? Or does anyone have contacts at the Met and can ask?
>
> Suzi

Forgive me for not payign attention earlier in this discussion, but I 
just made
a replica of the Met mantua, Suzi.  It's graphed in Waugh's "Cut of Women's
Clothes" and Payne's "History of Costume" although the two drafts differ
slightly and I haven't had a chance to get to the Met and confirm which (if
either) is the correct draft.

The ensemble is definitely a gown (mantua) worn with a pleated petticote.

Kass

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: mantua's and other court costumes
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.
> but then I think about the mid 19th century crinoline, just about as big 
> sideway, and way bigger front to back.  For some reason, this variation 
> does not look so "odd/off" to me
>
> Mia in Charlotte
>

Perhaps because it isn't as disproprotionate? Personally, I love the shape 
of the antebellum gowns, and I love the way it feels to walk in a hoop 
skirt. The later Victorian bustle shapes don't appeal to me nearly as much.

Dianne 

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From: SARAH WOODYARD <woodyard.16@osu.edu>
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Subject: [h-cost] costume history summer opportunity?
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Hello, Everyone!

My name is Sarah Woodyard and I am a sophomore at The Ohio State University majoring in Textiles and Clothing.  I am designing my own major to focus on costume history and fashion design.  I volunteer at the historic costume and textile collection and work in the costume shop at the theater.  I am looking for summer opportunities that would give me experience with reproduction work.  If anyone has any opportunities available or knows of someone who does I would appreciate it.  Thank you so much!

Sarah Woodyard


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Mar 22 17:56:14 2005
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Mia, I am in Monroe. recently moved back after being out of the area for  
several years.  I was a Mecklenburg Docent and began my living history  career at 
Polk.  Remember me to Carolyn Dilda, tell her I have neglected to  write her 
as of yet but PROMISE to do so soon!  I am also the Town Planner  for 
Weddington.  We should get together... I am trying to remember... 64th  is a Highland 
unit, right?  Which one?
 
Take care, 
 
Best, Susannah
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Hi Suzi & list,
 
I appreciate all the links and explanation. !!!! Unfortunately I have  gone 
over my email time this morning on this fascinating subject and will have  to 
save your emails to peruse in depth tonite.  Thanks again for all  the help... 
I can see there is much scope here.  Wish I could look again  just now but 
have to get back to work!
 
Best, Susannah!
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Subject: [h-cost] Leprosy Bandages
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I know that organizations can use money as well. Personally I'd rather knit the bandages; How wonderful to have someone care enough to make you a bandage! 

                                      Knitting for Newborns in Need,

                                                    Angelique


		
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Mar 22 18:08:42 2005
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From: "Megan & Dave" <danhorn3@cogeco.ca>
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Subject: Re: WAy OT Re: [h-cost] Re: OT? Bad Phish
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We live in Ontario, and my mother is from Michigan, so we did a lot of cross
bordering when I was a kid, and my parents drilled into us from the time we
could talk about behaving at customs, etc.  That time it was my mother who
almost lost it.

She did file a formal complaint about the guy though, so hopefully he'll be
informed that Birth Certificates Don't Expire.  and no one else will have
the same story.

Gwenhyfar

>
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lady Satine" <seamuslady@yahoo.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 22, 2005 1:48 PM
Subject: Re: WAy OT Re: [h-cost] Re: OT? Bad Phish


> ROFL!!!!!!
>
> satine
>
> Elena O'Tighearnaigh <elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net> wrote:
> Oh...That is just *too* funny! I suppose he busted her for not having her
death certificate?
>
> --
> Slan go foill
> Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri
>
> Emer's Needle Wares
>
> -------------- Original message -------------- 
>
> > Sounds like the officer who told my sister that her birth certificate
was
> > expired. I figure she must be the only person on the planet with an
expired
> > birth certificate.
> >
> > Gwenhyfar
> >
> > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > >
> > > > I guess either customs didn't have an xray machine to run the bear
> > through
> > > > or the man was being a down right A-H.
> > > > De
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -- 
> > No virus found in this outgoing message.
> > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> > Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.8.0 - Release Date: 3/21/2005
> >
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> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: Lady Satine <seamuslady@yahoo.com>
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Wow Hearing stories like this explains some of my frineds attitudes! Including Seamus' 
and congrats on the awards at clancy well met!!!!! 
 
Satine
 
 
Megan & Dave <danhorn3@cogeco.ca> wrote:
We live in Ontario, and my mother is from Michigan, so we did a lot of cross
bordering when I was a kid, and my parents drilled into us from the time we
could talk about behaving at customs, etc. That time it was my mother who
almost lost it.

She did file a formal complaint about the guy though, so hopefully he'll be
informed that Birth Certificates Don't Expire. and no one else will have
the same story.

Gwenhyfar

>
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lady Satine" 
To: "Historical Costume" 
Sent: Tuesday, March 22, 2005 1:48 PM
Subject: Re: WAy OT Re: [h-cost] Re: OT? Bad Phish


> ROFL!!!!!!
>
> satine
>
> Elena O'Tighearnaigh wrote:
> Oh...That is just *too* funny! I suppose he busted her for not having her
death certificate?
>
> --
> Slan go foill
> Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri
>
> Emer's Needle Wares
>
> -------------- Original message -------------- 
>
> > Sounds like the officer who told my sister that her birth certificate
was
> > expired. I figure she must be the only person on the planet with an
expired
> > birth certificate.
> >
> > Gwenhyfar
> >
> > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > >
> > > > I guess either customs didn't have an xray machine to run the bear
> > through
> > > > or the man was being a down right A-H.
> > > > De
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -- 
> > No virus found in this outgoing message.
> > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> > Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.8.0 - Release Date: 3/21/2005
> >
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> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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>
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>
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> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.8.0 - Release Date: 3/21/2005
>
>




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Hi, All. Suzi, there are a number of earlier types of works like the 
Laroon, showing working class folks, going back to the 16th cent. 
(Weiditz, Vecellio) I like the earlier dates of the Golden Age of Piracy 
(the 1660s through 1690s) A good image source in this earlier period is 
"Les petits metiers a Paris au XVIIe siecle" by Charlotte 
Lacour-Veyranne  pub Musee Carnavalet (Paris Musees) 1997 ISBN 
2-87900-356-3 It has a series of engravings dated 1676 by the Bonnart 
clan of engravers (Henri, Jean-Baptiste, Nicholas and Robert) which has 
5 engravings of women (cheese seller, broom seller, nursemaid, milkmaid 
and sister of charity).
There will be no shooting of messengers here!  I suppose I could send 
this info to the Brethren of the Bay (US Pirate) list (I think Ed is on 
it) but I thought I'd broadcast it as widely as possible. Cheers, Mike T.


>
> No need to shoot the messenger - I was simply passing on the 
> gentleman's request for information. Like I said, does anyone have 
> visual sources for ordinary women as these are scarce at this time?
>
> Suzi
>
>
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Subject: [h-cost] Vecellio: was Pirate site
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Hello,
One thing to remember when dealing with Vecellio et al, is that they 
were often copies of earlier books.  Here's an article that traces the 
history of these books.

Olian, J.A. (1977) Sixteenth-century costume books.  Dress (3), 20-48.

cheers,
Althea

On Tuesday, March 22, 2005, at 07:47 PM, michael tartaglio wrote:

> Hi, All. Suzi, there are a number of earlier types of works like the 
> Laroon, showing working class folks, going back to the 16th cent. 
> (Weiditz, Vecellio) I like the earlier dates of the Golden Age of 
> Piracy (the 1660s through 1690s) A good image source in this earlier 
> period is "Les petits metiers a Paris au XVIIe siecle" by Charlotte 
> Lacour-Veyranne  pub Musee Carnavalet (Paris Musees) 1997 ISBN 
> 2-87900-356-3 It has a series of engravings dated 1676 by the Bonnart 
> clan of engravers (Henri, Jean-Baptiste, Nicholas and Robert) which 
> has 5 engravings of women (cheese seller, broom seller, nursemaid, 
> milkmaid and sister of charity).
> There will be no shooting of messengers here!  I suppose I could send 
> this info to the Brethren of the Bay (US Pirate) list (I think Ed is 
> on it) but I thought I'd broadcast it as widely as possible. Cheers, 
> Mike T.
>
>
>>
>> No need to shoot the messenger - I was simply passing on the 
>> gentleman's request for information. Like I said, does anyone have 
>> visual sources for ordinary women as these are scarce at this time?
>>
>> Suzi
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com
*** http://www.alfalfapress.com

It is proof of a base and low mind for one to wish to think with the 
masses or majority, merely because the majority is the majority. Truth 
does not change because it is, or is not, believed by a majority of the 
people.
- Giordano Bruno
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Mar 23 00:01:22 2005
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We should trade border guard stories sometime, Gwenhyfar.

I was born in Michigan but my mom came to the US from Toronto in the 
1950s.  I grew up with one foot on each border, with lots of visits to 
Canada every year.

One time my gram bought some oranges at a little fruit stand before we 
hit the bridge.  We used to bring fruit back all the time.  Ah, those 
juicy Canadian peaches that dribbled juice down your chin....

*ahem*, anyway, the guard decided to confiscate the oranges.  My gram 
knew darn well that once confiscated the guard would take the oranges 
for himself, so she stepped out of the car, stomped on every orange and 
threw the squished fruit in the trash.  "There, now you can't eat them 
yourself!!"

The guard was flabbergasted and mom and I were laughing ourselves silly.
Michelle
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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On Mon, 21 Mar 2005, Julie wrote:

> OK.  Speaking of kirtles, I just finished one and have to ask.  Who
> came up with spiral lacing?!  It takes forever to get into and out of
> this dress.  I just had to do both Sunday for an arts judging.  Is
> there some quicker way of doing this?  I only unlaced about the first
> 5 inches and then loosened the laces to the waist.

I use a long long long piece of ribbon or cord (still playing with
options) and tie a blunt tapestry needle on the end with a slipknot. That
makes it easy to lace up. The needle stays there (I tuck it into the
lining at the cleavage while I'm dressed). When I unlace, I un-sew about 6
inches worth of eyelets, and loosen the rest. This is enough to allow me
to shimmy out of the dress. Once you're used to doing this, the loosening
goes rather quickly.

If I'm in a big hurry, I untie or even cut off the needle and whip the
lacing right out of the top few inches of holes (one pair at a time). Then
I tie the needle back on so I don't lose it.

I've been playing with fingerlooping a long enough string by looping the
starting end of my fingerlooped braid around enough additional loops to do
a complete other braid in the other direction. I did a nice long braid in
one direction (took me an evening) and set the project down. That was more
than a year ago. I don't think I can even remember what braiding pattern I
was using, so I'll probably have to start all over. And this was with nice
fine silk thread, so it was a really delicate but strong lace.

--Robin

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 191
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At 14:26 22/03/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>Quoting h-costume-request@indra.com:
>>To be honest, I don't see that the Met one is any different - I am seeing a
>>gown and petticoat, not a gown. Has anyone actually seen this beastie, and
>>can comment? Or does anyone have contacts at the Met and can ask?
>>
>>Suzi
>
>Forgive me for not payign attention earlier in this discussion, but I just 
>made
>a replica of the Met mantua, Suzi.  It's graphed in Waugh's "Cut of Women's
>Clothes" and Payne's "History of Costume" although the two drafts differ
>slightly and I haven't had a chance to get to the Met and confirm which (if
>either) is the correct draft.
>
>The ensemble is definitely a gown (mantua) worn with a pleated petticote.


Kass

I cannot find a matching pattern in my "Cut of Women's Clothes". There are 
two patterns, both from English museums, one of a dress in white, one in 
pink. Am I being obtuse - I thought the Met one was blue? I don't have the 
Payne book.

Both the mantuas in Waugh confirm what I have been saying all along. Each 
has a separate petticoat, and a gown which turns back on itself to form the 
pleats at the back.

Susannah, the drawing of these mantuas show, more clearly than I can 
describe, what I have been trying to explain. If you have a copy of Waugh 
(I can't speak for Payne) it would be worth your while to take a look I think.

Suzi


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Date: Wed, 23 Mar 2005 02:18:46 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mn.rr.com>
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Greetings,

Does anyone happen to know of a museum that has a collection of early 19th 
century (Regency) bonnets or hats?  I'm looking for 1806-7 in particular.

Cheers,
Danielle

Instructor on http://www.costumeclassroom.com
Check out my 16th Century English Clothing in Textual Sources class
Check out my Regency Fashion Plates in textual sources class 

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In a message dated 3/23/2005 3:22:15 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
dannw@mn.rr.com writes:

Does  anyone happen to know of a museum that has a collection of early 19th  
century (Regency) bonnets or hats?  I'm looking for 1806-7 in  particular.



Good luck--they are scarcer than hen's teeth.  Hats were re-trimmed  and, I 
think, worn until they wore out, so there are very few in museums.   I know of 
one 1820-ish straw bonnet in the DAR collection in Washington, DC, and  an 
1820-ish turban in the Hampshire County Museum, in England.
 
If anyone on this list knows of any, I would love to hear about it.
 
Ann Wass
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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] museum costume caches..
Date: Wed, 23 Mar 2005 10:21:44 -0500
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You can try the McCord Muesum.  http://www.mccord-museum.qc.ca

Go to their searchpage and you can get very specific ie caps 1805-1810 will
get a couple of hits.

Joanna

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Danielle Nunn-Weinberg
Sent: Wednesday, March 23, 2005 3:19 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] museum costume caches..


Greetings,

Does anyone happen to know of a museum that has a collection of early 19th 
century (Regency) bonnets or hats?  I'm looking for 1806-7 in particular.

Cheers,
Danielle

Instructor on http://www.costumeclassroom.com
Check out my 16th Century English Clothing in Textual Sources class Check
out my Regency Fashion Plates in textual sources class 

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From: ruthanneb@mindspring.com
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Leprosy Bandages
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Is this an organized activity too? How pleasurable to make small things for needy babies...
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-----Original Message-----
From: ~Angelique <ivycircle@yahoo.com>
Sent: Mar 22, 2005 12:11 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Leprosy Bandages

…… 

                                      Knitting for Newborns in Need,

                                                    Angelique


		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] museum costume caches..
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I know Kyoto Costume Institute have a few. They have at least one image 
online.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Danielle Nunn-Weinberg" <dannw@mn.rr.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 23, 2005 3:18 AM
Subject: [h-cost] museum costume caches..


> Greetings,
>
> Does anyone happen to know of a museum that has a collection of early 19th 
> century (Regency) bonnets or hats?  I'm looking for 1806-7 in particular.
>
> Cheers,
> Danielle
>
> Instructor on http://www.costumeclassroom.com
> Check out my 16th Century English Clothing in Textual Sources class
> Check out my Regency Fashion Plates in textual sources class
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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Date: Wed, 23 Mar 2005 19:27:55 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: mantua's and other court costumes
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I do agree.  I think of these as walking sofas.  I've always had the 
impression they should be worn with a gentleman sitting on each side <g>

Jean


Mia Dappert <snappylunch_2001@yahoo.com> wrote
>It's intersting to see the permutations that everyday costume go 
>through when it becomes court costume.
>
>My first thought is six foot wide panniers??...Good for an ostentateous 
>display of weathy, but they don't fit into my template of "attractive". 
>And they must have been a bear to manipulate in a social situation.
>but then I think about the mid 19th century crinoline, just about as 
>big sideway, and way bigger front to back.  For some reason, this 
>variation does not look so "odd/off" to me
>
>Mia in Charlotte
>
>
>---------------------------------
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: mantua's and other court costumes
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At 19:27 23/03/2005 +0000, you wrote:
>I do agree.  I think of these as walking sofas.  I've always had the 
>impression they should be worn with a gentleman sitting on each side <g>
>
>Jean
>
>
>Mia Dappert <snappylunch_2001@yahoo.com> wrote
>>It's intersting to see the permutations that everyday costume go through 
>>when it becomes court costume.
>>
>>My first thought is six foot wide panniers??...Good for an ostentateous 
>>display of weathy, but they don't fit into my template of "attractive". 
>>And they must have been a bear to manipulate in a social situation.
>>but then I think about the mid 19th century crinoline, just about as big 
>>sideway, and way bigger front to back.  For some reason, this variation 
>>does not look so "odd/off" to me


There is a wonderful drawing by the Polish (?) artist Daniel Chodowiecski 
who illustrated  books on modern manners among other things. It is in the 
catalogue "An Elegant Art" from an exhibition at LACMA and edited by Edward 
Maeder. He shows a couple out for a walk, and the young man is walking in 
front of the lady who is wearing a very wide pannier. Her arm is through 
his, and they are next to each other, but the edge of her skirt can be seen 
on his outside. It looks odder than it sounds!

Suzi


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If I'm understanding it correctly, I think a really big source of confusion 
here lies with understanding that Suzi and others are using the term 
'petticoat' for what some are thinking of as the gown's skirt, and that the 
'gown' Suzi et al refer to looks more like a bodice with a fancy extension, 
mostly in the back. Terminology of the era getting in the way, etc--the 
modern eye is most likely to see this as a two-piece gown, rather than a one 
piece gown over a matching petticoat.

-E House 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lacing Eyelets
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>> OK.  Speaking of kirtles, I just finished one and have to ask.  Who
>> came up with spiral lacing?!  It takes forever to get into and out of
>> this dress.

Okay, I tried to answer this one yesterday but couldn't get my ideas 
organized.

I think you should use something slippery as lacing. Not too slippery that 
you won't be able to tie it, but as slippery as possible. You'll damage the 
eyelets much less that way, and it will be much, much easier to get your 
things laced and unlaced. Also, the lacing doesn't need to be thick, I use a 
flat satin lace maybe 2mm wide at most. That way I can get in and out of my 
corset by miself, and it's laced in the back. 
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I thought that members of this list would be interested. 


ARTS / ART & DESIGN | March 23, 2005

Museum Gets Grant to Catalog Costumes
By CAROL VOGEL and RANDY KENNEDY

The Brooklyn Museum announced that it would receive a grant from the Andrew W. Mellon Foundation to catalog its rich collection of American and European costumes.

http://www.nytimes.com/2005/03/23/arts/design/23clot.html?ex=1112245200&en=2842496df810df9f&ei=5070



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> 
> > OK.  Speaking of kirtles, I just finished one and have to ask.  Who
> > came up with spiral lacing?!  It takes forever to get into and out of
> > this dress.  I just had to do both Sunday for an arts judging.  Is
> > there some quicker way of doing this?  I only unlaced about the first
> > 5 inches and then loosened the laces to the waist.
> 
> I use a long long long piece of ribbon or cord (still playing with
> options) and tie a blunt tapestry needle on the end with a slipknot. That
> makes it easy to lace up. The needle stays there (I tuck it into the
> lining at the cleavage while I'm dressed). When I unlace, I un-sew about 6
> inches worth of eyelets, and loosen the rest. This is enough to allow me
> to shimmy out of the dress. Once you're used to doing this, the loosening
> goes rather quickly.
> 
> If I'm in a big hurry, I untie or even cut off the needle and whip the
> lacing right out of the top few inches of holes (one pair at a time). Then
> I tie the needle back on so I don't lose it.
> 

> 
> --Robin

OK.  That describes what I did.  I even have a lovely antiqueish flat bodkin that fits perfectly through the eyelets.  I thought I must be doing something wrong. It's just a time consuming process.
Thanks.

Now I need a sideless surcoat pattern for my next project <G>

Julie

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In a message dated 3/23/2005 7:08:37 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
cvirtue+dated+1127174355.e431f1@thibault.org writes:

I do  think to keep to black and gold lace upon gray, 
being the colour of my  arms,


That sounds rather classy, and rather subdued, given livery in  general.
 
Ann Wass
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AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

> That sounds rather classy, and rather subdued, given livery in  general.

Yes, although the servant in question is a house-servant of some sort 
(there's probably more info at the link) so he wouldn't need to be as 
flashy as a herald or more public duty.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

Binary-numbered clock & Geek Mandalas! 
http://www.cafeshops.com/virtueventures
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Sunday 23 March 1661/62

http://www.pepysdiary.com/archive/1662/03/23/index.php

(Lord’s day). This morning was brought me my boy’s fine livery, which is 
very handsome, and I do think to keep to black and gold lace upon gray, 
being the colour of my arms, for ever. To church in the morning, and so 
home with Sir W. Batten, and there eat some boiled great oysters, and so 
home,

-more- at that URL.
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Had to get on this bit.  When making eyelets,  the quick way is to use 
grommets, what is the historical way?  Are they like round botton holes or what?

thanks theresa
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> Had to get on this bit.  When making eyelets,  the quick way is to use
> grommets, what is the historical way?  Are they like round botton holes or 
> what?
>
> thanks theresa

A little like that, yes. Except you don't necessarily need to stitch all the 
way around to make it pretty, even if it can be made pretty if you want. You 
don't pierce the fabric, just slowly nudge the fibers aside using an awl, 
and then take a few stitches to keep the hole open. 
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lacing Eyelets
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On Wed, 23 Mar 2005 Theresathreadgi@aol.com wrote:

> Had to get on this bit.  When making eyelets, the quick way is to use
> grommets, what is the historical way?  Are they like round botton
> holes or what?

Hand-done eyelets are so easy even I can do them. I do lousy buttonholes,
but my eyelets are perfectly round and even. And they go very fast -- and
never pull out like grommets can.

There are some examples of extant ones in the Museum of London's "Textiles
and Clothing" book and they're pretty much as one would expect -- round
openings held open with overcast stitch, if I'm remembering right.

This came up on this list a few years ago, and I just dug out a post I
made then, about the method that works well for me. Here's what I wrote:

<<First I poke a hole with the awl. Then I take something long and
tapering, such as a chopstick or the handle of an artist's paintbrush, and
push it through with a quick, sharp stroke. This enlarges the hole and
firms it up. It also makes each hole uniform, as the chopstick will tend
to go to the same depth each time. Then I use my nail scissors to snip
just one or occasionally two threads from each layer on each side of the
hole (not top and bottom, just the sides). I stab again with the chopstick
to firm up the hole again, and then before the hole relaxes again, I give
it a series of about six quick whipstitches all around the circle. That
holds the shape of the circle in place while I do the second, neater
round.

For the second round you can use either buttonhole or whipstitch, I think;
it may depend on your period, but my understanding is that medieval and
renaissance use both methods.

Using the awl and chopstick will give you nice round holes, and the
stitching tends automatically to make a round hole. It's really hard to do
otherwise!
>>

To the above I'll add a note: The reason you clip a thread or two on the
sides is to keep the fabric from puckering between the eyelets. This
applies only to a series of eyelets in a row along the fabric grain You
see, you're mostly just pushing the threads apart to create the hole, not
cutting or punching a hole. The unbroken threads keep the hole very strong
and stable and means you don't get threads pulling away from the hole (a
real problem with modern grommet-setting, which involves punching a hole
and cutting threads). However, if you do a lot in a row, the vertical
threads that would have run right through the middle of those holes, down
the whole row, have to "detour" around each one, and end up pulling tight
and puckering along the line of the eyelets. Clipping those particular
threads prevents that problem. Don't clip the threads that go
perpendicular to the row of eyelets.

--Robin

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> To the above I'll add a note: The reason you clip a thread or two on the
> sides is to keep the fabric from puckering between the eyelets.

I think it also depends what kind of fabric you're using. I did eyelets on 
linen, and it stretches a lot, so I didn't need to clip threads. I'd do it 
if I was using something that isn't quite as stretchy, though. 
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thanks you and Robin make it sound easy, so will try this way instead of 
grommets as they do tend to pull out over time.  theresa
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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Mantuas and Patterns Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 4,
	Issue 191
Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2005 16:55:22 +1200
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> Kass
>
> I cannot find a matching pattern in my "Cut of Women's Clothes". There are
> two patterns, both from English museums, one of a dress in white, one in
> pink. Am I being obtuse - I thought the Met one was blue? I don't have the
> Payne book.

The one in the Payne book (History of Costume first ed.) is of the earlier
stripey wool mantua, which is the style I prefer;)
http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/eudr/ho_33.54a,b.htm

The met also has another from around this time in a salmon pink. It's in
their catalogue Our New Clothes or some similar title. My copy has gone
walkabout...
http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/ho/09/euwb/ho_1991.6.1a,b.htm

The other pattern in Payne from the Met is a Caraco costume.


http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com/timeline.htm
I have no further info for this one, does anyone else?

Lacma has a stunning one from around this time also.
http://collectionsonline.lacma.org/mwebcgi/mweb.exe?request=exhibit&id=6635
Some fashion plate type things (not sure if at this stage they are
technically fashion plates.)
Click Fashion inthe Age of Louis XIV on the left and textiles of the time
will appear on the right, scroll to the dark blue satin mantua.

http://www.ulstermuseum.org.uk/collections/art/fashion/
1740s

http://www.gemeentemuseum.com/gm_site_coll_subitem.phtml?id=28
Cream mid 18thC
http://metropolis.japantoday.com/tokyo/546/art.asp
Blue mid 18thC

http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/leloirX2.htm
prints

A mantua c. 1708 - 09, from Clive House Museum, Shrewsbury" in Costume,
London, #4, 1970, pp 26 - 31.
Does anyone have this? I hadn't heard of this one.

regards
michaela de rbuce
http://glittersweet.com



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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lacing Eyelets
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On Wed, 23 Mar 2005 Theresathreadgi@aol.com wrote:

> thanks you and Robin make it sound easy, so will try this way instead
> of grommets as they do tend to pull out over time.  theresa

Do some tests on scrap fabric first, to get a sense of things like stitch
size, hole size, etc. and to get your rhythm.

Then start your eyelets from the bottom, where people won't be looking
closely. By the time you reach the top you'll be a pro.

Something else I do: Since I'm usually working on lined fabric (or with a
facing behind the eyelets) I run a line of basting, either hand or
machine, along the line where I want the eyelets to run, before I start
working. That holds the fabrics together and also ensures I get the line
of eyelets perfectly straight. After all the eyelets are done, I pull the
basting. It's OK if the basting gets caught in your eyelets; just clip the
basting off close when you're all done.

I do the basting before I mark the eyelets. Then I take a pencil or
marking chalk on the wrong side and make small hatch marks along the
basting line at even intervals; these form little X's where my eyelets
will be.

--Robin


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Now, if only the museum would get a grant to EXHIBIT the clothing!
 
Kathy Norvell
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The met also has another from around this time in a salmon pink. It's in
their catalogue Our New Clothes or some similar title. My copy has gone
walkabout...
http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/ho/09/euwb/ho_1991.6.1a,b.htm

The other pattern in Payne from the Met is a Caraco costume.


Forgive a stupid question (I'm not a trained costumer, just a seamstress who gets pressed into service), but why would this gown be labelled as "bizarre" silk?  That seems like an unlikely qualitative judgment for a museum to make, as they're not usually that subjective -- does this mean something else in textiles, like the way it's woven, or where it was made, or...?  Or did they really just decide that it's that odd?

Thanks!

KP


		
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Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2005 07:46:24 +0000
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Mantuas and Patterns Re: [h-cost]
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At 23:02 23/03/2005 -0800, you wrote:

>The met also has another from around this time in a salmon pink. It's in
>their catalogue Our New Clothes or some similar title. My copy has gone
>walkabout...
>http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/ho/09/euwb/ho_1991.6.1a,b.htm
>
>The other pattern in Payne from the Met is a Caraco costume.
>
>
>Forgive a stupid question (I'm not a trained costumer, just a seamstress 
>who gets pressed into service), but why would this gown be labelled as 
>"bizarre" silk?  That seems like an unlikely qualitative judgment for a 
>museum to make, as they're not usually that subjective -- does this mean 
>something else in textiles, like the way it's woven, or where it was made, 
>or...?  Or did they really just decide that it's that odd?


This is a title used to describe the patterns of silk early in the 18th 
century. I don't know whether it is a 20th century invention. The silks 
often have curious obelisks or other architectural items in them I will see 
if I can photograph the small piece I have, found in a flea market by a 
generous friend. In this context is does not mean odd.

Thanks Michaela for the great images.

The Clive House mantua is patterned in Patterns of Fashion.

Suzi


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mn.rr.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] museum costume caches..
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Great, thanks!  I will contact them.

Cheers,
Danielle

At 10:21 AM 3/23/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>You can try the McCord Muesum.  http://www.mccord-museum.qc.ca
>
>Go to their searchpage and you can get very specific ie caps 1805-1810 will
>get a couple of hits.
>
>Joanna
>
>-----Original Message-----
>Greetings,
>
>Does anyone happen to know of a museum that has a collection of early 19th
>century (Regency) bonnets or hats?  I'm looking for 1806-7 in particular.
>
>Cheers,
>Danielle
>
>Instructor on http://www.costumeclassroom.com
>Check out my 16th Century English Clothing in Textual Sources class Check
>out my Regency Fashion Plates in textual sources class
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
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Suzi Clarke wrote:

> This is a title used to describe the patterns of silk early in the 18th 
> century. I don't know whether it is a 20th century invention. The silks 
> often have curious obelisks or other architectural items in them I will 
> see if I can photograph the small piece I have, found in a flea market 
> by a generous friend. In this context is does not mean odd.

I've seen examples of a few of these, and pretty much universally could 
be described as "designed by Dr. Seuss."  They're fun, and unlike what 
you'd think someone 250+ years ago might have come up with.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

Happy MidSpring to everyone!
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Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2005 07:43:32 -0500
From: J Schueller <jaurbik@optonline.net>
Subject: LACING--was Re: [h-cost] Lacing Eyelets
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Ok, now that we are on this topic, I have dutifully put in lacing holes 
to spiral lace in all my dresses for the last wo years, and have 
achieved a problem (besides lacing it up!).  How does one tie it off at 
the top or bottom?  With only one lace, one can not make a bow.  This is 
compounded by the fact that most of my lacing is in the back and I need 
random people to tie me off, so I would love a good way to *describe* ow 
to tie off spiral lacing. 

Jordana

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In a message dated 3/24/2005 7:16:30 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
cvirtue+dated+1127217915.18c010@thibault.org writes:

I've  seen examples of a few of these, and pretty much universally could 
be  described as "designed by Dr. Seuss." 


Glad someone else has made that association.  That's what I have  always 
thought about the bizarre silks, too.
 
Ann Wass
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: LACING--was Re: [h-cost] Lacing Eyelets
Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2005 13:01:44 +0000
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How about: 

take the long cord and push it under the last cross of the lacing and pull on it until it looks like one long rabbit ear with the rest of that long cord making a single tail on the other side of that crossed lacing.  Take the two strands of the rabbit ear, give it a good adjusting yank to tighten up that last bit of lacing and then treat them as one strand. Take the single strand of the long tail in your other hand and tie off in *insert favorite knot here*.

Do you think that would help?  I've been *somewhat* sucessful at this description...There are those who don't know knots...

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> Ok, now that we are on this topic, I have dutifully put in lacing holes 
> to spiral lace in all my dresses for the last wo years, and have 
> achieved a problem (besides lacing it up!). How does one tie it off at 
> the top or bottom? With only one lace, one can not make a bow. This is 
> compounded by the fact that most of my lacing is in the back and I need 
> random people to tie me off, so I would love a good way to *describe* ow 
> to tie off spiral lacing. 
> 
> Jordana 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2005 08:02:14 -0600 (CST)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: LACING--was Re: [h-cost] Lacing Eyelets
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On Thu, 24 Mar 2005, J Schueller wrote:

> Ok, now that we are on this topic, I have dutifully put in lacing
> holes to spiral lace in all my dresses for the last wo years, and have
> achieved a problem (besides lacing it up!).  How does one tie it off
> at the top or bottom?  With only one lace, one can not make a bow.  
> This is compounded by the fact that most of my lacing is in the back
> and I need random people to tie me off, so I would love a good way to
> *describe* ow to tie off spiral lacing.

Interestingly, I've never needed to tie off. I snug up the lacing
completely (this usually means waiting about five minutes after I've fully
laced, and retightening, because the dress relaxes -- I do my hair or
something in the meantime) and then pass the thread through the top two
holes a couple more times. I then roll the rest of the lace around my
fingers into a bundle and stuff it down my cleavage, and slip the needle
into the lining in such a way that it doesn't poke.

And then I forget about it for the rest of the day. I've never known it to
slip.

I should note that I do my holes offset so that the lace moves on a
diagonal from one side to the other, and then I make the top two holes
even:

o o
o
  o
o
  o
o
  o
o
  o

One thing nice about the spiral is that you can overlap the sides of the
dress, so any "adjustment" that the dress makes over the day won't cause a
gap.

--Robin

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From: Mara Riley <mara@rileyhome.net>
Subject: Re: Mantuas and Patterns Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 4,
	Issue 191
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I think "bizarre" is a period term used for these designs, referring
to the striped and variegated appearance of the fabric (the term was
also applied to striped tulips and other flowers).

So, it's not a pejorative term used by the museum :)

-- Mara


--- Kathryn Parke <kjp1685@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Forgive a stupid question (I'm not a trained costumer, just a
> seamstress who gets pressed into service), but why would this gown
> be labelled as "bizarre" silk?  That seems like an unlikely
> qualitative judgment for a museum to make, as they're not usually
> that subjective -- does this mean something else in textiles, like
> the way it's woven, or where it was made, or...?  Or did they
> really just decide that it's that odd?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> KP


http://knittingobsession.blogspot.com/ - knitting blog
http://www.knittingobsession.com/patterns.htm - Modern knitting patterns
http://www.marariley.net/ - 18th century costume notes and patterns
---------------------
Doubt is not a pleasant condition, but certainty is absurd. - Voltaire
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Subject: Re: LACING--was Re: [h-cost] Lacing Eyelets
Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2005 08:55:34 -0500
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Hello Wence!
We have been wondering about you and your (growing) family.  I am sure that
you will have memories for a lifetime!
How has the babe#1 been taking the trip? We were in Boston for the End of
the Year holidays and really enjoyed the opportunity to see our grand kids.
Mitchell is in an all day kindergarten; Helena is still a bit of a
skirt-hanger (or Roberta is...)
We have just returned from a brief semester break.  We traveled out to the
Hagerstown/Frederick Md. area, collecting Post Offices and some antique
paper and textiles.
RL is now in the home stretch toward his retirement!!
Re the Didot:  You will have to get to Roberta on that one.  She has heard
nothing from the family since her second trip out there (1993?)  But I
assume that she has Bunda's last known address in Surabaya.  The family is
well known, I think.

We wait with anticipation for the news in May.  Now wouldn't that be a
retirement present for RL!

Our love to all, Kathleen and LLoyd.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Elena O'Tighearnaigh" <elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2005 8:01 AM
Subject: Re: LACING--was Re: [h-cost] Lacing Eyelets


> How about:
>
> take the long cord and push it under the last cross of the lacing and pull
on it until it looks like one long rabbit ear with the rest of that long
cord making a single tail on the other side of that crossed lacing.  Take
the two strands of the rabbit ear, give it a good adjusting yank to tighten
up that last bit of lacing and then treat them as one strand. Take the
single strand of the long tail in your other hand and tie off in *insert
favorite knot here*.
>
> Do you think that would help?  I've been *somewhat* sucessful at this
description...There are those who don't know knots...
>
> --
> Slan go foill
> Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri
>
> Emer's Needle Wares
>
> -------------- Original message -------------- 
>
> > Ok, now that we are on this topic, I have dutifully put in lacing holes
> > to spiral lace in all my dresses for the last wo years, and have
> > achieved a problem (besides lacing it up!). How does one tie it off at
> > the top or bottom? With only one lace, one can not make a bow. This is
> > compounded by the fact that most of my lacing is in the back and I need
> > random people to tie me off, so I would love a good way to *describe* ow
> > to tie off spiral lacing.
> >
> > Jordana
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: Re: LACING--was Re: [h-cost] Lacing Eyelets
Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2005 09:29:13 -0500
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Sorry about this folks!!!  I mixed up my messages after being away for three
days.
Please disregard.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2005 8:55 AM
Subject: Re: LACING--was Re: [h-cost] Lacing Eyelets


> Hello Wence!
> We have been wondering about you and your (growing) family.  I am sure
that
> you will have memories for a lifetime!
> How has the babe#1 been taking the trip? We were in Boston for the End of
> the Year holidays and really enjoyed the opportunity to see our grand
kids.
> Mitchell is in an all day kindergarten; Helena is still a bit of a
> skirt-hanger (or Roberta is...)
> We have just returned from a brief semester break.  We traveled out to the
> Hagerstown/Frederick Md. area, collecting Post Offices and some antique
> paper and textiles.
> RL is now in the home stretch toward his retirement!!
> Re the Didot:  You will have to get to Roberta on that one.  She has heard
> nothing from the family since her second trip out there (1993?)  But I
> assume that she has Bunda's last known address in Surabaya.  The family is
> well known, I think.
>
> We wait with anticipation for the news in May.  Now wouldn't that be a
> retirement present for RL!
>
> Our love to all, Kathleen and LLoyd.
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Elena O'Tighearnaigh" <elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2005 8:01 AM
> Subject: Re: LACING--was Re: [h-cost] Lacing Eyelets
>
>
> > How about:
> >
> > take the long cord and push it under the last cross of the lacing and
pull
> on it until it looks like one long rabbit ear with the rest of that long
> cord making a single tail on the other side of that crossed lacing.  Take
> the two strands of the rabbit ear, give it a good adjusting yank to
tighten
> up that last bit of lacing and then treat them as one strand. Take the
> single strand of the long tail in your other hand and tie off in *insert
> favorite knot here*.
> >
> > Do you think that would help?  I've been *somewhat* sucessful at this
> description...There are those who don't know knots...
> >
> > --
> > Slan go foill
> > Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri
> >
> > Emer's Needle Wares
> >
> > -------------- Original message -------------- 
> >
> > > Ok, now that we are on this topic, I have dutifully put in lacing
holes
> > > to spiral lace in all my dresses for the last wo years, and have
> > > achieved a problem (besides lacing it up!). How does one tie it off at
> > > the top or bottom? With only one lace, one can not make a bow. This is
> > > compounded by the fact that most of my lacing is in the back and I
need
> > > random people to tie me off, so I would love a good way to *describe*
ow
> > > to tie off spiral lacing.
> > >
> > > Jordana
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > h-costume mailing list
> > > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> > _______________________________________________
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> >
>
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References: <200503232110.QAA29000@arkroyal.concentric.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] lacing eyelets
Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2005 09:33:05 -0500
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I also have several of these.  The seem to have been prolific in the last
quarter of the 19th C-first  Q of the 20th.  The size of the eyes differ
slightly; they were also made of ivory.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Julie" <jtknits@jtknits.cts.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 23, 2005 4:10 PM
Subject: [h-cost] lacing eyelets


>
> >
> > > OK.  Speaking of kirtles, I just finished one and have to ask.  Who
> > > came up with spiral lacing?!  It takes forever to get into and out of
> > > this dress.  I just had to do both Sunday for an arts judging.  Is
> > > there some quicker way of doing this?  I only unlaced about the first
> > > 5 inches and then loosened the laces to the waist.
> >
> > I use a long long long piece of ribbon or cord (still playing with
> > options) and tie a blunt tapestry needle on the end with a slipknot.
That
> > makes it easy to lace up. The needle stays there (I tuck it into the
> > lining at the cleavage while I'm dressed). When I unlace, I un-sew about
6
> > inches worth of eyelets, and loosen the rest. This is enough to allow me
> > to shimmy out of the dress. Once you're used to doing this, the
loosening
> > goes rather quickly.
> >
> > If I'm in a big hurry, I untie or even cut off the needle and whip the
> > lacing right out of the top few inches of holes (one pair at a time).
Then
> > I tie the needle back on so I don't lose it.
> >
>
> >
> > --Robin
>
> OK.  That describes what I did.  I even have a lovely antiqueish flat
bodkin that fits perfectly through the eyelets.  I thought I must be doing
something wrong. It's just a time consuming process.
> Thanks.
>
> Now I need a sideless surcoat pattern for my next project <G>
>
> Julie
>
> _______________________________________________
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: LACING--was Re: [h-cost] Lacing Eyelets
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At 08:02 24/03/2005 -0600, you wrote:

>On Thu, 24 Mar 2005, J Schueller wrote:
>
> > Ok, now that we are on this topic, I have dutifully put in lacing
> > holes to spiral lace in all my dresses for the last wo years, and have
> > achieved a problem (besides lacing it up!).  How does one tie it off
> > at the top or bottom?  With only one lace, one can not make a bow.
> > This is compounded by the fact that most of my lacing is in the back
> > and I need random people to tie me off, so I would love a good way to
> > *describe* ow to tie off spiral lacing.
>
>Interestingly, I've never needed to tie off. I snug up the lacing
>completely (this usually means waiting about five minutes after I've fully
>laced, and retightening, because the dress relaxes -- I do my hair or
>something in the meantime) and then pass the thread through the top two
>holes a couple more times. I then roll the rest of the lace around my
>fingers into a bundle and stuff it down my cleavage, and slip the needle
>into the lining in such a way that it doesn't poke.
>
>And then I forget about it for the rest of the day. I've never known it to
>slip.
>
>I should note that I do my holes offset so that the lace moves on a
>diagonal from one side to the other, and then I make the top two holes
>even:
>
>o o
>o
>   o
>o
>   o
>o
>   o
>o
>   o
>
>One thing nice about the spiral is that you can overlap the sides of the
>dress, so any "adjustment" that the dress makes over the day won't cause a
>gap.


For 18th century lacing, put the  end of the cord back through the last 
eyelet, making a loop. Then put the end of the cord through the loop and 
pull tight. Never budges, and you only have to pull on the loop to undo it.

Suzi


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Subject: Re: LACING--was Re: [h-cost] Lacing Eyelets
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I have two dresses with spiral lacing, both 15th c. kirtle types.  I 
leave the lace in the holes and just loosen it up.  As a result, I've 
never actually *finished* the holes.  I took my blunt-ended needle with 
the ribbon in it and wiggled it through the fabric and lining, up and 
up, and then it was done.

Although I'm not sure I'd encourage someone who wants to do the whole 
job to take this easy way out, it would be a good way to figure out 
exactly where you want to put permanant eyelets before you start sewing.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent
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Subject: [h-cost] Fingerlooping?
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So how does one "fingerloop"?  Are there instructions or pictures somewhere?

Kate

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lacing Eyelets


> I've been playing with fingerlooping a long enough string by looping the
> starting end of my fingerlooped braid around enough additional loops to do
> a complete other braid in the other direction. I did a nice long braid in
> one direction (took me an evening) and set the project down. That was more
> than a year ago. I don't think I can even remember what braiding pattern I
> was using, so I'll probably have to start all over. And this was with nice
> fine silk thread, so it was a really delicate but strong lace.
>
> --Robin
>
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> 


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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Fingerlooping?
Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2005 15:03:59 -0000
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There is a picture in the MoL book*. Don't know which page, though. 

Phiala's string page has instructions too.
(http://www.stringpage.com/braid/fl/fingerloop.html)

*: "Museum of London: Textiles and Clothing"

/Lena


-----Original Message-----
From: Kate Pinner [mailto:pinner@mccc.edu] 
Sent: 24 March 2005 14:56
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Fingerlooping?

So how does one "fingerloop"?  Are there instructions or pictures somewhere?

Kate

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Lacing Eyelets


> I've been playing with fingerlooping a long enough string by looping the
> starting end of my fingerlooped braid around enough additional loops to do
> a complete other braid in the other direction. I did a nice long braid in
> one direction (took me an evening) and set the project down. That was more
> than a year ago. I don't think I can even remember what braiding pattern I
> was using, so I'll probably have to start all over. And this was with nice
> fine silk thread, so it was a really delicate but strong lace.
>
> --Robin
>
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> 


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There's also:

http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/fingerloop.html

Which has several examples and more references.

I made one once, under instruction, which was from a 15th c. pattern -- 
it looked like lace.
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I think the same thing about some of the more outre textiles in late 
16th c. clothing--what comes to mind right off the bat this morning is 
that one gown of Elizabeth I's that had the ears and eyes on it.....
--sue, now stuck with a textile version of "Green Eggs and Ham" running 
through her head.....

AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:
>  
> In a message dated 3/24/2005 7:16:30 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
> cvirtue+dated+1127217915.18c010@thibault.org writes:
> 
> I've  seen examples of a few of these, and pretty much universally could 
> be  described as "designed by Dr. Seuss." 
> 
> 
> Glad someone else has made that association.  That's what I have  always 
> thought about the bizarre silks, too.

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] placing of Eyelets (was Lacing Eylets
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I have a similar question.

Some Italian laces have staggered holes, and then many other countries have 
the holes lined up.

How do I choose, and if I choose the staggered ones, is there some sort of 
ratio that makes the top fabric edges line up?

Last time I tried, they were always between half and one inch off.  I know 
that some of it is the method of lacing, (eg. wrap vs. criss-cross).  But 
I'd like to do the single wrap up the edge.

Thanks,
Genie

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I didn't think I would have anything to add to this extensive 
discussion, but I do!  If you are doing Flemish, especially Breughel, 
you can use contrasting colors-they did.  Look carefully at several of 
the women in the Dance pictures and you will see.  The men are more 
obvious, but if you look around you will see them.

Sg

>  

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Ruthann,

Newborns in need is a nonprofit organization that makes and gives booties, sleepers, socks, blankets, ect, to babies that are sickly, preemie or in crisis the website is http:www.newbornsinneed.org 

Knitting a baby sweater as we speak, Angelique



Is this an organized activity too? How pleasurable to make small things for needy babies...
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer



		
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] placing of Eyelets (was Lacing Eylets
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On Thu, 24 Mar 2005, Genie Barrett wrote:

> Some Italian laces have staggered holes, and then many other countries
> have the holes lined up.
> 
> How do I choose...

I've seen both straight and staggered on English/French/Flemish 14th-15th
c., so I don't think it's a national issue. Do what you like ;-)

> and if I choose the staggered ones, is there some sort of ratio that
> makes the top fabric edges line up?
> 
> Last time I tried, they were always between half and one inch off.  I
> know that some of it is the method of lacing, (eg. wrap vs.
> criss-cross).  But I'd like to do the single wrap up the edge.

Not sure about ratio, but I always mark my eyelets before sewing them. I
start marking from the top, making the top level on each side at the same
distance -- say, half an inch down from the top edge. Then on one side, I
go down in even increments; on the other side, I go down half an increment
for the first eyelet below the top one, then full increments for the rest.
The result is as I drew earlier:

o o
o 
  o
o 
  o
o 
  o
o 
  o
o 
  o

Those even eyelets at the top seem to be enough to square everything off.
I've seen that arrangement on at least one sculpture. Interestingly, I've
also seen some paintings that show spiral lacing on parallel (not offset)  
eyelets, and the bodice edges meet unevenly. I suppose for an underdress
this doesn't matter, but I think I'd personally feel a little skewed
wearing it ;-)

Flemish paintings show some interesting variations that seem to represent
a rather casual practice: Evenly placed eyelets, but the lace going
offset, skipping every other hole each side;  or lacing that skips an
occasional hole, so that the spiral goes slanted in one direction for part
of the stretch, then slanted in the other direction.

Oh, on marking technique: Realistically, I know they probably didn't
measure. I've stopped using numeric measurements for almost every part of
my fitted dress construction, and I think I'm at about the point where I
don't need to measure eyelets either. I imagine the medieval seamstress
spaced eyelets with her finger or thumb, all the way down the row.


--Robin

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Subject: Re: Mantuas and Patterns Re: [h-cost]
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On a similar subject:

Just yesterday I was watching the Discovery channel (Canada), and there was
an article about a new form of printing silk for Kimonos which is
significantly faster than the traditional methods. All it is is an oversized
ink-jet printer, they have a young lady sit down at a computer and design
whatever the customer wants for a pattern. While I was watching they
designed an Obi sash that had a piano keyboard with musical notes. They also
showed a sash with playing cards. Rather unusual designs for traditional
garments!

I'm sure they could (if they havent already) do an actual Dr Seuss print...

Sheridan

http://www.detnews.com/2004/technology/0409/23/technology-281968.htm

The kimono article is at the bottom of the page
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2005 10:41 AM
Subject: Re: Mantuas and Patterns Re: [h-cost]


> I think the same thing about some of the more outre textiles in late
> 16th c. clothing--what comes to mind right off the bat this morning is
> that one gown of Elizabeth I's that had the ears and eyes on it.....
> --sue, now stuck with a textile version of "Green Eggs and Ham" running
> through her head.....
>
> AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > In a message dated 3/24/2005 7:16:30 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> > cvirtue+dated+1127217915.18c010@thibault.org writes:
> >
> > I've  seen examples of a few of these, and pretty much universally could
> > be  described as "designed by Dr. Seuss."
> >
> >
> > Glad someone else has made that association.  That's what I have  always
> > thought about the bizarre silks, too.
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Here is a more detailed article, with a photo of the piano print obi:

 http://www.japantimes.co.jp/cgi-bin/getarticle.pl5?nn20040914f1.htm

Sheridan

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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I just got word this morning from Boydell & Brewer that the printed copies
of Medieval Clothing & Textiles, vol. 1, have arrived at the warehouse. I
haven't seen it yet, but I will soon.

This is a big event for me, and I want to thank this list's members for
all the interest, feedback, and encouragement you've given me (and, by
extension, my co-editor Gale Owen-Crocker) during the process of getting
this journal off the ground. It has meant more than you can imagine, not
only in concrete orders (we've had more than 300 pre-orders, and much of
that directly comes from people passing along one posting I made to this
list!) but also in helping us guide our decisions so that we can produce a
book that is both academically sound and useful to a broader audience of
costume researchers.

BTW, a correspondent informs me that Barnes and Noble has a bargain price
on the book right now (better than Amazon, and better than the list price
on the Boydell & Brewer website). Also, attendees at the Medieval
Congresses can buy copies at conference discount (usually 20%).

I'll be interested in hearing when people start getting delivery of the
book (my own copy will come straight from the publisher, so I don't know
how long it takes for order fulfillment). Meanwhile, we're deep in the
throes of editing Volume 2, which will include a paper on Elizabethan
jackets by this list's own Danielle Nunn-Weinberg; another on Renaissance
fabric cleaning recipes by former listmember Drea Leed; and others on such
topics as "flea furs," medieval cloth trade, early Irish regalia, and
more.

Thank you all for everything.

--Robin


===============================================================
Robin Netherton // robin@nightowl.net
Editor, Medieval Clothing & Textiles
"No student knows his subject. The most he knows is where and 
how to find out the things he does not know." -- Woodrow Wilson


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I, for one, can't wait :)  I'd preordered my copy at B&N and yes, it IS cheaper.  Came to $31.
 
Congratulations!!!
 
Best of Regards,
Chris G.

Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:

I just got word this morning from Boydell & Brewer that the printed copies
of Medieval Clothing & Textiles, vol. 1, have arrived at the warehouse. I
haven't seen it yet, but I will soon.

This is a big event for me, and I want to thank this list's members for
all the interest, feedback, and encouragement you've given me (and, by
extension, my co-editor Gale Owen-Crocker) during the process of getting
this journal off the ground. It has meant more than you can imagine, not
only in concrete orders (we've had more than 300 pre-orders, and much of
that directly comes from people passing along one posting I made to this
list!) but also in helping us guide our decisions so that we can produce a
book that is both academically sound and useful to a broader audience of
costume researchers.


		
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Genie Barrett <maggie.gene@justinanimator.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] placing of Eyelets (was Lacing Eylets
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Robin Netherton stepped close to the microphone and whispered:


>Not sure about ratio, but I always mark my eyelets before sewing them. I
>start marking from the top, making the top level on each side at the same
>distance -- say, half an inch down from the top edge. Then on one side, I
>go down in even increments; on the other side, I go down half an increment
>for the first eyelet below the top one, then full increments for the rest.
>The result is as I drew earlier:
>
>o o
>o
>   o
>o
>   o
>o
>   o
>o
>   o
>o
>   o
>
>Those even eyelets at the top seem to be enough to square everything off.
>I've seen that arrangement on at least one sculpture. Interestingly, I've
>also seen some paintings that show spiral lacing on parallel (not offset)
>eyelets, and the bodice edges meet unevenly. I suppose for an underdress
>this doesn't matter, but I think I'd personally feel a little skewed
>wearing it ;-)

cool, thanks so much

Genie

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On Thursday 24 March 2005 1:22 pm, Robin Netherton wrote:
> I just got word this morning from Boydell & Brewer that the printed copies
> of Medieval Clothing & Textiles, vol. 1, have arrived at the warehouse. I
> haven't seen it yet, but I will soon.

[snip]

> This is a big event for me, and I want to thank this list's members for
> all the interest, feedback, and encouragement you've given me (and, by
> extension, my co-editor Gale Owen-Crocker) during the process of getting
> this journal off the ground.

You're welcome.  For those of us interested in costume of the medieval period, 
we have good reason to want this project to succeed.  :-)


> I'll be interested in hearing when people start getting delivery of the
> book (my own copy will come straight from the publisher, so I don't know
> how long it takes for order fulfillment). 

I will let you know when I get my copy.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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How about those argyle obis? Pretty mod! And speaking of mod, there's the
mondrian-style squares with cat silhouettes. Hmm. I'd love to design one of
these myself! I wonder what kind of ink jet printer they use? You'd think
the manufacturer would love the publicity.

> http://www.okinu.co.jp/shopping/yn/yn_list.html

Gail Finke

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Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2005 20:01:15 -0500
From: J Schueller <jaurbik@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: LACING--was Re: [h-cost] Lacing Eyelets
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Robin-I like that idea.  It had nont occured to me *not* to knot it.  I 
will have to keep that in mind. 

Elena-Your descriptions sounds nice.  I will try that if i don't have luck with robin's method.


Robin Netherton wrote:

>Interestingly, I've never needed to tie off. I snug up the lacing
>completely (this usually means waiting about five minutes after I've fully
>laced, and retightening, because the dress relaxes -- I do my hair or
>something in the meantime) and then pass the thread through the top two
>holes a couple more times. I then roll the rest of the lace around my
>fingers into a bundle and stuff it down my cleavage, and slip the needle
>into the lining in such a way that it doesn't poke.
>
>  
>


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COOL!! I am doing my second flemish outfit (mostly after drea's book) 
but that is exactly what i *wanted* to hear.  Neato.  I will look closer 
then this weekend.

thanks

Wicked Frau wrote:

>
> I didn't think I would have anything to add to this extensive 
> discussion, but I do!  If you are doing Flemish, especially Breughel, 
> you can use contrasting colors-they did.  Look carefully at several of 
> the women in the Dance pictures and you will see.  The men are more 
> obvious, but if you look around you will see them.
>
> Sg
>
>>  
>
>
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>


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I went straight to B & N and pre-ordered a copy.  I am dying to get it.  Any chance you would autograph it for me, Robin,

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:

From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2005 12:22:47 -0600 (CST)
To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] Publication update


I just got word this morning from Boydell & Brewer that the printed copies
of Medieval Clothing & Textiles, vol. 1, have arrived at the warehouse. I
haven't seen it yet, but I will soon.

This is a big event for me, and I want to thank this list's members for
all the interest, feedback, and encouragement you've given me (and, by
extension, my co-editor Gale Owen-Crocker) during the process of getting
this journal off the ground. It has meant more than you can imagine, not
only in concrete orders (we've had more than 300 pre-orders, and much of
that directly comes from people passing along one posting I made to this
list!) but also in helping us guide our decisions so that we can produce a
book that is both academically sound and useful to a broader audience of
costume researchers.

BTW, a correspondent informs me that Barnes and Noble has a bargain price
on the book right now (better than Amazon, and better than the list price
on the Boydell & Brewer website). Also, attendees at the Medieval
Congresses can buy copies at conference discount (usually 20%).

I'll be interested in hearing when people start getting delivery of the
book (my own copy will come straight from the publisher, so I don't know
how long it takes for order fulfillment). Meanwhile, we're deep in the
throes of editing Volume 2, which will include a paper on Elizabethan
jackets by this list's own Danielle Nunn-Weinberg; another on Renaissance
fabric cleaning recipes by former listmember Drea Leed; and others on such
topics as "flea furs," medieval cloth trade, early Irish regalia, and
more.

Thank you all for everything.

--Robin


===============================================================
Robin Netherton // robin@nightowl.net
Editor, Medieval Clothing & Textiles
"No student knows his subject. The most he knows is where and 
how to find out the things he does not know." -- Woodrow Wilson


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Ok, I just _have_ to share this!

I also went to Barnes & Noble and pre-ordered a copy (which I'd been 
meaning to do anyway, so don't scold, Robin! :) and they had a list 
on the book's site that amused me. Here it is:

>People who bought this book also bought:
>
>The Sea Hunters II (Clive Cussler, Craig Dirgo)
>Chariots of the Gods (Erich Von Daniken)
>The Earth Chronicles Expeditions: Journeys to the Mythical Past 
>(Zecharia Sitchin)
>Ancient Rome: History of a Civilization That Ruled the World (Anna 
>Maria Liberati, Fabio Bourbon)
>Underworld: The Mysterious Origins of Civilization (Graham Hancock)

For those who don't recognize these authors offhand, Erich von 
Daniken and Graham Hancock are both notorious proponents of, 
ummmmmmmm, shall we say "alternative" theories of history (less 
polite people would call them "cranks" or possibly "wackos" :). From 
the title of the "Earth Chronicles" book, I wonder about that author, 
too.

Clive Cussler appears to be a fiction author. The first sentence from 
the jacket description of his most recent book starts out, "Eric the 
Red's A.D. 1000 discovery of a radioactive meteorite..." However, the 
Sea Hunters book appears to be a non-fiction book about shipwrecks.

Anna Maria Liberati, appears to be a genuine scholar with good 
credentials. One out of five..... <g>

I am left contemplating: just what it might be about _Medieval 
Textiles & Clothing_ that would attract people who are interested in 
"Chariots of the Gods"???!?!?!  Any ideas, Robin? <g>

BTW, Amazon's list is much more "normal":

>Customers who bought this book also bought
>
>Dress in Anglo-Saxon England, Revised and Enlarged Edition by Gale 
>R. Owen-Crocker
>Viking Age Headcoverings From Dublin by Elizabeth Wincott Heckett
>The Medieval Household : Daily Living c.1150-c.1450 (Medieval Finds 
>from Excavations in London) by Geoff Egan
>Woven into the Earth: Textiles from Norse Greenland by Else Ostergard
>Dress Accessories, c.1150-c.1450 (Medieval Finds from Excavations in 
>London) by Geoff Egan

____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>  -   Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
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On Thu, 24 Mar 2005, Lalah wrote:

> I went straight to B & N and pre-ordered a copy.  I am dying to get
> it.  Any chance you would autograph it for me, Robin,

Wow! Does that make me a celebrity?

Really, I only wrote *one* of the papers...

OK, and a book review.

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Publication update
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On Thu, 24 Mar 2005, Chris Laning wrote:

> Ok, I just _have_ to share this!
> 
> I also went to Barnes & Noble and pre-ordered a copy (which I'd been 
> meaning to do anyway, so don't scold, Robin! :) and they had a list 
> on the book's site that amused me. Here it is:
<snip>
> I am left contemplating: just what it might be about _Medieval 
> Textiles & Clothing_ that would attract people who are interested in 
> "Chariots of the Gods"???!?!?!  Any ideas, Robin? <g>

I saw it too and snickered. I think it is random, till the system
processes enough orders. At least I hope it is random. If not, that's
frightening.

The list of also-ordered on Amazon makes a lot more sense, of course. Good
company to be in there!

--Robin


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Publication update
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OK, I confess, I have Chariots of the Gods and several of Clive Cussler's  books.  Cussler does write mystery fiction and it is actually pretty good.  Von Daniken starts out with some pretty convincing stuff, but then he reaches way out there and by the time you are half through one of his books (yep, more than one) you realize that he is either nuts or thinks the reader is.  Can't tell you about the others though as I haven't read them.  Let's just say some of us have very wide fields of interest.  :o)

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> wrote:

From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2005 21:16:55 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Publication update

Ok, I just _have_ to share this!

I also went to Barnes & Noble and pre-ordered a copy (which I'd been 
meaning to do anyway, so don't scold, Robin! :) and they had a list 
on the book's site that amused me. Here it is:

>People who bought this book also bought:
>
>The Sea Hunters II (Clive Cussler, Craig Dirgo)
>Chariots of the Gods (Erich Von Daniken)
>The Earth Chronicles Expeditions: Journeys to the Mythical Past 
>(Zecharia Sitchin)
>Ancient Rome: History of a Civilization That Ruled the World (Anna 
>Maria Liberati, Fabio Bourbon)
>Underworld: The Mysterious Origins of Civilization (Graham Hancock)

For those who don't recognize these authors offhand, Erich von 
Daniken and Graham Hancock are both notorious proponents of, 
ummmmmmmm, shall we say "alternative" theories of history (less 
polite people would call them "cranks" or possibly "wackos" :). From 
the title of the "Earth Chronicles" book, I wonder about that author, 
too.

Clive Cussler appears to be a fiction author. The first sentence from 
the jacket description of his most recent book starts out, "Eric the 
Red's A.D. 1000 discovery of a radioactive meteorite..." However, the 
Sea Hunters book appears to be a non-fiction book about shipwrecks.

Anna Maria Liberati, appears to be a genuine scholar with good 
credentials. One out of five..... <g>

I am left contemplating: just what it might be about _Medieval 
Textiles & Clothing_ that would attract people who are interested in 
"Chariots of the Gods"???!?!?!  Any ideas, Robin? <g>

BTW, Amazon's list is much more "normal":

>Customers who bought this book also bought
>
>Dress in Anglo-Saxon England, Revised and Enlarged Edition by Gale 
>R. Owen-Crocker
>Viking Age Headcoverings From Dublin by Elizabeth Wincott Heckett
>The Medieval Household : Daily Living c.1150-c.1450 (Medieval Finds 
>from Excavations in London) by Geoff Egan
>Woven into the Earth: Textiles from Norse Greenland by Else Ostergard
>Dress Accessories, c.1150-c.1450 (Medieval Finds from Excavations in 
>London) by Geoff Egan

____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>  -   Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
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I just did a little comparison shopping  -  AMAZON wanted nearly 20 dollars 
more than B&N.  OUCH.
Needless to say I ordered from B&N.

Mari

Mari Stewart
Webmaster
College of Veterinary Medicine
Cornell University


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> Thanks Michaela for the great images.

Well I have admittedly refound a passion;) I mentioned on the list a few
years ago that Nicole's Mantua (by Ninya on the list) made me look with
fresh eyes at these gowns c1700. I know as I found my emails while hunting
for mentions of mantua;) Very embarassing finding old emails..

Anyway the wool Met gown has been a favourite for years while I've pretty
well loathed all the prints of the style I've seen. Now I have been looking
past the fashion ideal and tried to work out what they would look like made
up.

So I've been hunting for online extant garments and thought I might share;)

> The Clive House mantua is patterned in Patterns of Fashion.

Heheh, I just spotted that last night;) Very different pattern to the wool
Met one. I wonder if they've patterned the salmon one...

There are just two patterns I wish to have, but they are both in books that
are going to cost an arm and a leg and a risky online transaction to get
hold of:
Halls, Zillah. Women's costumes 1600-1750, Published: London, H.M.S.O., 1969
Out of print, my library copy has the fold out patterns missing.
Apparently there are two patterns, one sheet? Two sheets?

Ellen Andersen "Moden i 1700 årene"
The Valdemar Slot gown which looks to have a more flared petticoat than the
others.

Risky because only sellers I don't know have copies and/or I'm dealing in a
language I can only take a wild stab in the dark with;)

michaela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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>>The Sea Hunters II (Clive Cussler, Craig Dirgo)

>>Clive Cussler appears to be a fiction author. The first sentence from the 
>>jacket description of his most recent book starts out, "Eric the Red's 
>>A.D. 1000 discovery of a radioactive meteorite..." However, the Sea 
>>Hunters book appears to be a non-fiction book about shipwrecks.

The Sea Hunters I was, IIRC, a book about finding buried wrecked ships, and 
I think there was even a piece about a buried steam engine from a train 
wreck when a bridge washed out.  The author has an ego to be reckoned with, 
but probably did find the buried ships/steam engine he claims he did.  I 
don't remember any costume content except with reference to diving gear, 
unless they found buttons.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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>From: lisa <lisleong@k12.hi.us>
>  	When was suede first used--for shoes, gloves, anything?  My
>dictionary says the term is from 1855-ish and comes from gants de Suede
>-->gloves from Sweden.  If suede leather was used before then, what was it
>called?  Split leather?
>  	Or if not produced specifically as suede, at what time period
>did leather with the flesh side as the "fashion side" start to be used?

Ok, Suede, -real- suede is not a split.  In fact in real suede, it's not 
even the flesh side of the leather - it's the grain side that's been roughed 
and buffed up to give it that fuzzy texture without using weak leather.   It 
goes back at least to around 1600.

The use of flesh-out for shoes goes back to about the same time, mostly I 
think because it's easier to do some of leather sewing on the flesh side, 
and putting the flesh side to the leather, with the ridge of the round 
closing presed to the wood risks marking up your leather.  Keep it to the 
outside, and you can do other cool things with it.

Marc


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To the esteemed list:
 
I am addressing this forum with the following question:
 
For those of you who do costumed living history, do you or do you not  object 
to being called a "reenactor"?  Some people seem to take exception  to the 
term, yet it seems to be common in other communities (American Civil War,  for 
example).  So please share your opinions with me.
 
Thanks very much.
 
Ann Wass
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar 26 08:31:45 2005
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Date: Sat, 26 Mar 2005 08:30:25 -0500
From: "Ron Carnegie" <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Use of "Reenactor"--slightly OT
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hello,

   The only people I have seen who object to the term are professionals, who
also object being called "docents" as well.  Both of these terms are used by
practioners for volunteers.  Docents generally giving tours at historic
sites and re-enactors being engaged in a very large diversity of activities,
but most noticeably battle re-enactments.

	I don't object to any of these terms.  One because I am not only a
historical interpreter, but a re-enactor as well.  It was re-enacting that
caused me to enter the profession.  Docent I don't object to because the
people using it generally do not know the way it is used in the field and
therefore do not mean it as an insult (it is often taken as one by
interpreters).  Besides, being paid does NOT necessarily make one better
than that volunteers their time.

Ron Carnegie

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of AnnBWass@aol.com
> Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2005 6:50 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Use of "Reenactor"--slightly OT
>
>
> To the esteemed list:
>
> I am addressing this forum with the following question:
>
> For those of you who do costumed living history, do you or do you
> not  object
> to being called a "reenactor"?  Some people seem to take
> exception  to the
> term, yet it seems to be common in other communities (American
> Civil War,  for
> example).  So please share your opinions with me.
>
> Thanks very much.
>
> Ann Wass
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar 26 09:11:58 2005
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Subject: [h-cost] JPEG properties-OT but would be of interest to most
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Have I been missing something all along or did the file properties of 
jpeg files just change recently such that you can add all the picture 
information?

Sheesh! 

Sg
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar 26 15:56:47 2005
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Use of "Reenactor"--slightly OT
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This question recently came up on a UK discussion site - unfortunately 
it doesn't seem to have archives so I can't point you to the discussion. 
The question there was whether what we do is re-enactment, living 
history, recreation, interpretation...?  The general impression I got is 
that the only people who are bothered about what they are called are 
those who want to imply that they are better than other people.  (eg, 
"we're historical interpreters, not re-enactors")  The problem is, 
nobody can really agree on what the terms mean or which is best.  The 
public and people who want to employ us have different conceptions of 
the different terms and of which they want to see, so it's best just to 
set out your approach and not use terms which may mean something 
different to the person you are talking to.  And that's before we even 
try any transatlantic comparisons!

For the record, I call myself a re-enactor.

Jean



AnnBWass@aol.com wrote
>To the esteemed list:
>
>I am addressing this forum with the following question:
>
>For those of you who do costumed living history, do you or do you not  object
>to being called a "reenactor"?  Some people seem to take exception  to the
>term, yet it seems to be common in other communities (American Civil War,  for
>example).  So please share your opinions with me.
>
>Thanks very much.
>
>Ann Wass
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

-- 
Jean Waddie
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar 26 16:21:53 2005
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Jean Waddie wrote:

> The general impression I got is 
> that the only people who are bothered about what they are called are 
> those who want to imply that they are better than other people.

I try to be fairly precise, because the group I do things with is 
overall less-accuracy-minded than groups I would call "re-enactors" or 
"living history." So I don't want anyone to get confused.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar 26 17:47:38 2005
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Subject: [h-cost] Computer Help--slightly OT
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Hello all!

I would like to solicit some computer help.  I would like to create a 
spreadsheet, like an excel file, which arranges pictures in 
chronological order.  The problem I am having with both excel (and just 
plain word tables) is that neither will allow me to insert a picture 
into a cell, which means that whenever I insert a new line, I then have 
to go back and move ALL the pictures.  Anyone have a good idea of what 
to do? or have I just made a mish-mosh out off my description?

Thanks for your time, Jordana

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Computer Help--slightly OT
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Status: RO

Hmmm, this is an interesting question.  I don't think Excel or Word 
inserts thumbnails like building a web page.  Even when you build a 
chart in Excel it is not inserted in a cell per se.  So I don't think 
you will ever be succesful in keeping it where you want it.  I assume 
you want to make a searchable database so you can search on qualities of 
the picture.  Unless someone else has any better ideas, you are probably 
stuck with putting a hyperlink to the picture in the spread sheet.  It 
sure would be nice to have this hyperlink look like a thumbnail.  I 
would love to hear anyone elses ideas on this.  This is one of the 
reasons I was so happy to find out about the jpeg properties I mentioned 
earlier.

Sg

J Schueller wrote:

> Hello all!
>
> I would like to solicit some computer help.  I would like to create a 
> spreadsheet, like an excel file, which arranges pictures in 
> chronological order.  The problem I am having with both excel (and 
> just plain word tables) is that neither will allow me to insert a 
> picture into a cell, which means that whenever I insert a new line, I 
> then have to go back and move ALL the pictures.  Anyone have a good 
> idea of what to do? or have I just made a mish-mosh out off my 
> description?
>
> Thanks for your time, Jordana
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
_______________________________________________
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From: Alex Doyle <garbaholic@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Computer Help--slightly OT
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

What version of word are you using?  When I read your message I thought
that I had done this before in Word 98, inserting an image into a cell
of a word table.  Just to be sure I wasn't wrong, I just tried it again
(in word 97), and it worked fine, including a second column that I put
random numbers in so I could test a sort on it.  It all worked fine for
me.

All I do is position the cursor in the cell I want to place the image,
go to insert picture, select the item and that's it.

alex
--- J Schueller <jaurbik@optonline.net> wrote:
> Hello all!
> 
> I would like to solicit some computer help.  I would like to create a
> 
> spreadsheet, like an excel file, which arranges pictures in 
> chronological order.  The problem I am having with both excel (and
> just 
> plain word tables) is that neither will allow me to insert a picture 
> into a cell, which means that whenever I insert a new line, I then
> have 
> to go back and move ALL the pictures.  Anyone have a good idea of
> what 
> to do? or have I just made a mish-mosh out off my description?
> 
> Thanks for your time, Jordana
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Computer Help--slightly OT
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Status: RO

I'm an inveterate Mac user who doesn't upgrade programs very often, so I might be recommending a program that doesn't work on your computer or that can't be had anymore, but...
All my databases are FileMaker documents. Any kind of data, including pictures, can be inserted in records, and you can create endless layout variations to present some or all of the data in each record, AND you can sort by alphabet, numerical record order, or chronological order, AND you can create calculation fields as well (so it can be used for some traditional spreadsheet functions). Claris used to make FileMaker. I think I heard a rumor that the program or company has been absorbed by somebody....anyway, it is/was a great program and would do just about anything you wanted in terms of a database.

I also use Tables in Word for various purposes (and love that feature!), but not for elaborate databases. I guess the choice would depend on what kinds of records Jordana wanted to handle.

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
gypsy scholar and amateur costumer


From: Alex Doyle <garbaholic@sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Mar 26, 2005 7:54 PM
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Computer Help--slightly OT

What version of word are you using?  When I read your message I thought
that I had done this before in Word 98, inserting an image into a cell
of a word table.  Just to be sure I wasn't wrong, I just tried it again
(in word 97), and it worked fine, including a second column that I put
random numbers in so I could test a sort on it.  It all worked fine for
me.

All I do is position the cursor in the cell I want to place the image,
go to insert picture, select the item and that's it.

alex
--- J Schueller <jaurbik@optonline.net> wrote:
> Hello all!
> 
> I would like to solicit some computer help.  I would like to create a
> 
> spreadsheet, like an excel file, which arranges pictures in 
> chronological order.  The problem I am having with both excel (and
> just 
> plain word tables) is that neither will allow me to insert a picture 
> into a cell, which means that whenever I insert a new line, I then
> have 
> to go back and move ALL the pictures.  Anyone have a good idea of
> what 
> to do? or have I just made a mish-mosh out off my description?
> 
> Thanks for your time, Jordana
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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From: J Schueller <jaurbik@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Computer Help--slightly OT
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Status: RO

Ok, I have to beg an apology for wasting everyone's time.  I just went 
back to word and it *now* does what i want (and alex describes).  I am 
going to claim that little goblins snuck into my computer and fixed the 
flaw that made it not work for me before. 

really.
p.s. though the program filemaker sounds GOOD and cool. 

jordana


ruthanneb@mindspring.com wrote:

>I'm an inveterate Mac user who doesn't upgrade programs very often, so I might be recommending a program that doesn't work on your computer or that can't be had anymore, but...
>All my databases are FileMaker documents. Any kind of data, including pictures, can be inserted in records, and you can create endless layout variations to present some or all of the data in each record, AND you can sort by alphabet, numerical record order, or chronological order, AND you can create calculation fields as well (so it can be used for some traditional spreadsheet functions). Claris used to make FileMaker. I think I heard a rumor that the program or company has been absorbed by somebody....anyway, it is/was a great program and would do just about anything you wanted in terms of a database.
>
>I also use Tables in Word for various purposes (and love that feature!), but not for elaborate databases. I guess the choice would depend on what kinds of records Jordana wanted to handle.
>
>--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
>gypsy scholar and amateur costumer
>
>
>From: Alex Doyle <garbaholic@sbcglobal.net>
>Sent: Mar 26, 2005 7:54 PM
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Computer Help--slightly OT
>
>What version of word are you using?  When I read your message I thought
>that I had done this before in Word 98, inserting an image into a cell
>of a word table.  Just to be sure I wasn't wrong, I just tried it again
>(in word 97), and it worked fine, including a second column that I put
>random numbers in so I could test a sort on it.  It all worked fine for
>me.
>
>All I do is position the cursor in the cell I want to place the image,
>go to insert picture, select the item and that's it.
>
>alex
>--- J Schueller <jaurbik@optonline.net> wrote:
>  
>
>>Hello all!
>>
>>I would like to solicit some computer help.  I would like to create a
>>
>>spreadsheet, like an excel file, which arranges pictures in 
>>chronological order.  The problem I am having with both excel (and
>>just 
>>plain word tables) is that neither will allow me to insert a picture 
>>into a cell, which means that whenever I insert a new line, I then
>>have 
>>to go back and move ALL the pictures.  Anyone have a good idea of
>>what 
>>to do? or have I just made a mish-mosh out off my description?
>>
>>Thanks for your time, Jordana
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>    
>>
>
>  
>


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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Wow, I didn't know Filemaker was still around!  I had used it years 
ago.....or maybe I am confusing that with FoxPro....Filemaker I used 
only 3 or 4 years ago.
Oh well, sounds like it is worth investigation.  I would not want to use 
a non database type structure for this kind of thing.  Though my SQL 
beginnings were with ACCESS, sounds like Filemaker has this area 
topped!  BTW,  I don't think it was a waste of time at all!  What I 
really would like to be able to do is put all the "factoid" data in the 
properties section of the picture file and then suck it out again so 
that the "critical" data remains with the file itself and then can be 
associated with other descriptive information in the database......

Oh why, Oh why did I become a mechanical engineer, when computers are 
SOOOO much coooler!

Sg

J Schueller wrote:

> Ok, I have to beg an apology for wasting everyone's time.  I just went 
> back to word and it *now* does what i want (and alex describes).  I am 
> going to claim that little goblins snuck into my computer and fixed 
> the flaw that made it not work for me before.
> really.
> p.s. though the program filemaker sounds GOOD and cool.
> jordana
>
>
> ruthanneb@mindspring.com wrote:
>
>> I'm an inveterate Mac user who doesn't upgrade programs very often, 
>> so I might be recommending a program that doesn't work on your 
>> computer or that can't be had anymore, but...
>> All my databases are FileMaker documents. Any kind of data, including 
>> pictures, can be inserted in records, and you can create endless 
>> layout variations to present some or all of the data in each record, 
>> AND you can sort by alphabet, numerical record order, or 
>> chronological order, AND you can create calculation fields as well 
>> (so it can be used for some traditional spreadsheet functions). 
>> Claris used to make FileMaker. I think I heard a rumor that the 
>> program or company has been absorbed by somebody....anyway, it is/was 
>> a great program and would do just about anything you wanted in terms 
>> of a database.
>>
>> I also use Tables in Word for various purposes (and love that 
>> feature!), but not for elaborate databases. I guess the choice would 
>> depend on what kinds of records Jordana wanted to handle.
>>
>> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
>> gypsy scholar and amateur costumer
>>
>>
>> From: Alex Doyle <garbaholic@sbcglobal.net>
>> Sent: Mar 26, 2005 7:54 PM
>> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Computer Help--slightly OT
>>
>> What version of word are you using?  When I read your message I thought
>> that I had done this before in Word 98, inserting an image into a cell
>> of a word table.  Just to be sure I wasn't wrong, I just tried it again
>> (in word 97), and it worked fine, including a second column that I put
>> random numbers in so I could test a sort on it.  It all worked fine for
>> me.
>>
>> All I do is position the cursor in the cell I want to place the image,
>> go to insert picture, select the item and that's it.
>>
>> alex
>> --- J Schueller <jaurbik@optonline.net> wrote:
>>  
>>
>>> Hello all!
>>>
>>> I would like to solicit some computer help.  I would like to create a
>>>
>>> spreadsheet, like an excel file, which arranges pictures in 
>>> chronological order.  The problem I am having with both excel (and
>>> just plain word tables) is that neither will allow me to insert a 
>>> picture into a cell, which means that whenever I insert a new line, 
>>> I then
>>> have to go back and move ALL the pictures.  Anyone have a good idea of
>>> what to do? or have I just made a mish-mosh out off my description?
>>>
>>> Thanks for your time, Jordana
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>   
>>
>>
>>  
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat Mar 26 22:08:07 2005
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I guess I spoke too soon....ACCESS does do it (supposedly  
http://www.ehow.com/how_12373_insert-picture-graph.html)...I haven't 
tried it, but I sure will now.  I have been putting this off for years 
because I can't stand WORD and couldn't figure out a way to do it with 
EXCEL.  Though now that I know both WORD and ACCESS can do it, I bet 
EXCEL can too.

Sg

Wicked Frau wrote:

> Wow, I didn't know Filemaker was still around!  I had used it years 
> ago.....or maybe I am confusing that with FoxPro....Filemaker I used 
> only 3 or 4 years ago.
> Oh well, sounds like it is worth investigation.  I would not want to 
> use a non database type structure for this kind of thing.  Though my 
> SQL beginnings were with ACCESS, sounds like Filemaker has this area 
> topped!  BTW,  I don't think it was a waste of time at all!  What I 
> really would like to be able to do is put all the "factoid" data in 
> the properties section of the picture file and then suck it out again 
> so that the "critical" data remains with the file itself and then can 
> be associated with other descriptive information in the database......
>
> Oh why, Oh why did I become a mechanical engineer, when computers are 
> SOOOO much coooler!
>
> Sg
>
> J Schueller wrote:
>
>> Ok, I have to beg an apology for wasting everyone's time.  I just 
>> went back to word and it *now* does what i want (and alex 
>> describes).  I am going to claim that little goblins snuck into my 
>> computer and fixed the flaw that made it not work for me before.
>> really.
>> p.s. though the program filemaker sounds GOOD and cool.
>> jordana
>>
>>
>> ruthanneb@mindspring.com wrote:
>>
>>> I'm an inveterate Mac user who doesn't upgrade programs very often, 
>>> so I might be recommending a program that doesn't work on your 
>>> computer or that can't be had anymore, but...
>>> All my databases are FileMaker documents. Any kind of data, 
>>> including pictures, can be inserted in records, and you can create 
>>> endless layout variations to present some or all of the data in each 
>>> record, AND you can sort by alphabet, numerical record order, or 
>>> chronological order, AND you can create calculation fields as well 
>>> (so it can be used for some traditional spreadsheet functions). 
>>> Claris used to make FileMaker. I think I heard a rumor that the 
>>> program or company has been absorbed by somebody....anyway, it 
>>> is/was a great program and would do just about anything you wanted 
>>> in terms of a database.
>>>
>>> I also use Tables in Word for various purposes (and love that 
>>> feature!), but not for elaborate databases. I guess the choice would 
>>> depend on what kinds of records Jordana wanted to handle.
>>>
>>> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
>>> gypsy scholar and amateur costumer
>>>
>>>
>>> From: Alex Doyle <garbaholic@sbcglobal.net>
>>> Sent: Mar 26, 2005 7:54 PM
>>> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Computer Help--slightly OT
>>>
>>> What version of word are you using?  When I read your message I thought
>>> that I had done this before in Word 98, inserting an image into a cell
>>> of a word table.  Just to be sure I wasn't wrong, I just tried it again
>>> (in word 97), and it worked fine, including a second column that I put
>>> random numbers in so I could test a sort on it.  It all worked fine for
>>> me.
>>>
>>> All I do is position the cursor in the cell I want to place the image,
>>> go to insert picture, select the item and that's it.
>>>
>>> alex
>>> --- J Schueller <jaurbik@optonline.net> wrote:
>>>  
>>>
>>>> Hello all!
>>>>
>>>> I would like to solicit some computer help.  I would like to create a
>>>>
>>>> spreadsheet, like an excel file, which arranges pictures in 
>>>> chronological order.  The problem I am having with both excel (and
>>>> just plain word tables) is that neither will allow me to insert a 
>>>> picture into a cell, which means that whenever I insert a new line, 
>>>> I then
>>>> have to go back and move ALL the pictures.  Anyone have a good idea of
>>>> what to do? or have I just made a mish-mosh out off my description?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks for your time, Jordana
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>   
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mn.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Computer Help--slightly OT
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Hi,

Filemaker is still around and is what is used to catalogue the slide 
library in the Art History Department at the University of St. Thomas.  All 
60,000 slides...I think it is a useful program.

cheers,
Danielle

At 08:01 PM 3/26/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>Wow, I didn't know Filemaker was still around!  I had used it years 
>ago.....or maybe I am confusing that with FoxPro....Filemaker I used only 
>3 or 4 years ago.
>Oh well, sounds like it is worth investigation.  I would not want to use a 
>non database type structure for this kind of thing.  Though my SQL 
>beginnings were with ACCESS, sounds like Filemaker has this area 
>topped!  BTW,  I don't think it was a waste of time at all!  What I really 
>would like to be able to do is put all the "factoid" data in the 
>properties section of the picture file and then suck it out again so that 
>the "critical" data remains with the file itself and then can be 
>associated with other descriptive information in the database......
>
>Oh why, Oh why did I become a mechanical engineer, when computers are 
>SOOOO much coooler!
>
>Sg

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Date: Sat, 26 Mar 2005 22:21:38 -0800 (PST)
From: Lady Satine <seamuslady@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Computer Help--slightly OT
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Danielle, 
 
Was it you who suggested I make a corset with shoulder straps??? if so how wide would you suggest, I will use it for both Elizabethan and Tudor styles. Thank you for your help.
 
Satine



		
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"The Center and the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City 
will present "Fashions of the 1940s from The Museum at FIT," in the 
Center's Terrace Gallery, March 18-April 15, 2005. Included in this 
stunning exhibition will be a selection of more than 30 fashions and 
accessories from some of the top designers of the decade..."

http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=4558477

http://www.kennedy-center.org/calendar/index.cfm?fuseaction=showEvent&event=XFFAS




Dawn



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fingerlooping?
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Kate wrote:
> So how does one "fingerloop"?  Are there instructions or pictures 
> somewhere?
>

Try Rhiannon's site:   http://fingerloop.org/
                        -Helen/Aidan 

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Okay I finally found the website for one of the companies talked about in
the article. This is a page of available prints:

 http://www.okinu.co.jp/shopping/yn/yn_list.html

I'm kinda digging the 'goth' prints, spiderweb kimono with skull obi anyone?
:-)

Sheridan


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> So how does one "fingerloop"?  Are there instructions or pictures somewhere?

http://fingerloop.org        It's pretty much a webbed version of the 
SCA Compleat Anachronist #108 and has directions for several patterns.

--lisa
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Thank you to all who answered my question.  I think I will have to try this.
Kate
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Helen Pinto" <hpinto@mindspring.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2005 12:37 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fingerlooping?


> Kate wrote:
>> So how does one "fingerloop"?  Are there instructions or pictures 
>> somewhere?
>>
> 
> Try Rhiannon's site:   http://fingerloop.org/
>                        -Helen/Aidan 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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 	When was suede first used--for shoes, gloves, anything?  My 
dictionary says the term is from 1855-ish and comes from gants de Suede 
-->gloves from Sweden.  If suede leather was used before then, what was it 
called?  Split leather?

 	Or if not produced specifically as suede, at what time period 
did leather with the flesh side as the "fashion side" start to be used?

--lisa
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>For those of you who do costumed living history, do you or do you not  object
>to being called a "reenactor"?  Some people seem to take exception  to the
>term, yet it seems to be common in other communities (American Civil 
>War,  for
>example).  So please share your opinions with me.

I'm a first-person-interpretation docent in two centuries and, and a living 
history participant in two or three, but nobody ever called me a re-enactor 
before.  I thought that was only the ACW soldiers who did battles, but I 
never heard any of them object to the term.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <bd.54659f15.2f76a681@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Use of "Reenactor"--slightly OT
Date: Sat, 26 Mar 2005 16:10:31 -0500
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I'm in the SCA, so I do what I consider medieval recreation, not medieval 
re-enactment. To me, re-enactment would be to reproduce historical events. 
We're not doing that at all.

I can't say that I object to being called a reenactor, but I think it's not 
an accurate description of what I'm doing.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <AnnBWass@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2005 6:50 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Use of "Reenactor"--slightly OT


> To the esteemed list:
>
> I am addressing this forum with the following question:
>
> For those of you who do costumed living history, do you or do you not 
> object
> to being called a "reenactor"?  Some people seem to take exception  to the
> term, yet it seems to be common in other communities (American Civil War, 
> for
> example).  So please share your opinions with me.
>
> Thanks very much.
>
> Ann Wass
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Computer Help--slightly OT
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In a message dated 3/26/2005 6:02:07 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
wickedfrau@earthlink.net writes:

I would  like to create a 
> spreadsheet, like an excel file, which arranges  pictures in 
> chronological order.  


I think you need to build a database, not a spreadsheet.  Not sure how  well 
Access handles pictures, but I know there are other databases that  do.  You 
could then sort on the date field to get things in chronological  order after 
adding new entries.
 
I'm just a novice with databases, but I'm sure someone else on this list  
will be more expert.
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Use of "Reenactor"--slightly OT
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Ann, I don't take exception to being called a "reenactor." I use the term  
myself when I don't have the time to explain was a living historian is.
 
Kathleen Norvell
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For my activities at Sutter's Fort in Sacramento, I generally call myself a 
docent, i.e., a volunteer.  While we often "reenact" when portraying 
historical individuals, we generally do not use the term reenactor; around 
here it seems to be more associated with those involved in American Civil 
War re-enactments.  I would not object to being called a reenactor, but 
it's not the usual term used at the Fort.

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA

At 06:50 AM 3/26/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>To the esteemed list:
>
>I am addressing this forum with the following question:
>
>For those of you who do costumed living history, do you or do you not  object
>to being called a "reenactor"?  Some people seem to take exception  to the
>term, yet it seems to be common in other communities (American Civil 
>War,  for
>example).  So please share your opinions with me.
>
>Thanks very much.
>
>Ann Wass

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From: Lady Satine <seamuslady@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Use of "Reenactor"--slightly OT
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As a SCAdian personally It does not bother me a bit to be called a re-enactor... I know that is not really what SCA is about... The Current Middle Ages in a way we kinda do recreate "things"  from history we just jumble 1000 years of history together and all play together unstead of just one small point in history like the Civil War, WWI & II, War of 1812 people do they do actual historical  specific events.... I feel we do more Arts and Sciences or ways of life throughout and try to recreate and preserve. what various peoples did during history 
 
It is an odd view point I know  but it is mine... 
 
Satine

AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:
To the esteemed list:

I am addressing this forum with the following question:

For those of you who do costumed living history, do you or do you not object 
to being called a "reenactor"? Some people seem to take exception to the 
term, yet it seems to be common in other communities (American Civil War, for 
example). So please share your opinions with me.

Thanks very much.

Ann Wass
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Use of "Reenactor"--slightly OT
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People outside the costumed vocations/avocations occasionally need a way
to refer to all of them collectively. The usual understandable term seems
to be "re-enactor." For instance, my publisher will refer to "the
re-enactor market" meaning living history interpreters, SCA members, etc.
-- basically anyone who dresses up and does period activities, for
whatever purpose. Generally we all know what that means.

I find the distinctions seem far more important to some people within the
specialties. When I speak to a lecture audience, I find I can no longer
refer casually to what "re-enactors" are interested in vs. what "academic
researchers" or "theatre costumers" are concerned with (a topic that comes
up occasionally in my talks) -- I have to be more verbose, e.g.
"re-enactors, historical interpreters, and other people who re-create
historic material culture" or some such mouthful.

I also get scolding e-mails from people when I use the term "re-enactors"
casually in correspondence, even when I think the meaning as a collective
noun is clear; people seem to find it necessary to educate me just in case
I don't understand that SCA people don't do re-enactment or whatver.

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Use of "Reenactor"--slightly OT
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In my experience with writing marketing prose for our books, people know 
perfectly well what is meant by "reenactor" (which I think is the most 
efficient term for this audience, in terms of both scope of meaning and 
brevity).  Readers are not offended by it (after all, it's not a slur), 
and it has no negative effect on whether they buy a book. I've never 
gotten an email "scolding" me for my use of terms, or on whether I 
choose to hyphenate "reenactor."  If I did I'd ignore it.  I'm writing 
marketing material to sell my books, not custom writing for someone 
else.  And I have the sales figures to prove whether  the books sell, 
which the average reader doesn't.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

<snip>

>When I speak to a lecture audience, I find I can no longer
>refer casually to what "re-enactors" are interested in vs. what "academic
>researchers" or "theatre costumers" are concerned with (a topic that comes
>up occasionally in my talks) -- I have to be more verbose, e.g.
>"re-enactors, historical interpreters, and other people who re-create
>historic material culture" or some such mouthful.
>
>  
>
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Please folks!
I am sorry, but really i have to quite now.
 I have such a lot of work to do, and i cant cope with you people!
I dont know what Alexia will think of me, she lives on Manhattan and i had a 
agreement with her about that chenille rose dress, I really have to shut my 
mouth now and take care of my sewing.
So please h-costume members you have to be without me for a while
I will post pictures for you as always, but dont know how when i have 
unsubscribed h-costume

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Bjarne, we love hearing from you, go ahead and unsubscribe if you must until
you are caught up and then come back and join us when you are less busy.
We'll be here waiting, although we will miss you.
-Megan

-----Original Message-----
Bjarne wrote:
Please folks!
I am sorry, but really i have to quite now.
 I have such a lot of work to do, and i cant cope with you people!
I dont know what Alexia will think of me, she lives on Manhattan and i had a

agreement with her about that chenille rose dress, I really have to shut my 
mouth now and take care of my sewing.
So please h-costume members you have to be without me for a while
I will post pictures for you as always, but dont know how when i have 
unsubscribed h-costume

Bjarne



_______________________________________________
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h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] help
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Status: RO

Bjarne,
I think you can put yourself on "no mail" rather than un-subscribing.  That 
way you can come back into the conversations without re-subscribing.  Just 
go to the website in the footer and change your subscription status to "no 
mail".  That way you can send us a note with a link to your new creations.
One of your many admirers,
Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA  USA

At 06:29 PM 3/16/2005 +0100, you wrote:
>Please folks!
>I am sorry, but really i have to quite now.
>I have such a lot of work to do, and i cant cope with you people!
>I dont know what Alexia will think of me, she lives on Manhattan and i had 
>a agreement with her about that chenille rose dress, I really have to shut 
>my mouth now and take care of my sewing.
>So please h-costume members you have to be without me for a while
>I will post pictures for you as always, but dont know how when i have 
>unsubscribed h-costume
>
>Bjarne
>
>
>Leif og Bjarne Drews
>www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
>http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Use of "Reenactor"--slightly OT
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...doing my best teenage eye-roll...
Some people need to get a life, no? <g>
I've never had the pleasure of participating in reenactment (by which I 
tend to think of specific, known historical events being, well, 
reenacted), nor been an interpreter or done living history, so I tend to 
think of myself as a "recreator," which is, generally, how my 
local/regional SCA fellows tend to call ourselves.  Somewhere at least a 
little more academic (at least potentially) that most RenFaire stuff, 
but not as rigorous as, say the American Civil War folks, or some of the 
amazing stuff done in Britain these days.
Mostly, though, I don't think about the label at all.  Perhaps if I did 
more than just SCA, then I might be trying to balance the description 
for this weekend's activities against next month's activities.....
--sue

Robin Netherton wrote:
<snipped>

> I also get scolding e-mails from people when I use the term "re-enactors"
> casually in correspondence, even when I think the meaning as a collective
> noun is clear; people seem to find it necessary to educate me just in case
> I don't understand that SCA people don't do re-enactment or whatver.


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Use of "Reenactor"--slightly OT
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Status: RO

Thanks, all on weighing in on the use of the term "reenactor."  I  think I 
can sum up thusly:
 
First, it is a general term used as a kind of shorthand to include all  
living history, re-creation, and actual reenactment folks.
 
Second, it more precisely refers to individuals or groups who are  reenacting 
specific events, like battles of the ACW, War of 1812, or [thanks  Martha!], 
the burning of Joan of Ark.
 
I feel more comfortable now using the term in the first sense as a general  
description.
 
Ann Wass
 
 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Computer Help--slightly OT
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Status: RO

Part of it depends on what you want to do.  (and you can email me off list if 
you like sfarmerATutkDOTedu or sfarmerATgoldswordDOTcom if you don't want to 
continue this here)

If you're just wanting to keep a personal reference list, may I suggest 
BR-Archiver (http://www.br-software.com/)  It's lovely, it's *cheap* and you
can have all sorts of values that you can identify images with.

If you're wanting to make an easy web page that you can indert and delete 
images at will, there are some nice CSS things that will help you do that. I 
tend to do my image galleries in plain HTML because I have a caption to go 
with each one -- and I haven't found a CSS style that will accomodate what I 
want to do cross-browser.  Example of the kind of galleries that I do (and 
feel free
to snarf the HTML if it suits your needs can be seen at
http://epee.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Wildflower
http://epee.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/gallery.html

If you're trying to do a "plain old document, then you'll want to just create
a table -- in WordPerfect there's a table button that lets you create a table 
of however many rows & columns that you want.

Jerusha, botanist and techno-geek

-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Botany Department, University of Tennessee
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium

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Status: RO

> Oh well, sounds like it is worth investigation.  I would not want to use
> a non database type structure for this kind of thing.  Though my SQL
> beginnings were with ACCESS, sounds like Filemaker has this area
> topped!  BTW,  I don't think it was a waste of time at all!  What I
> really would like to be able to do is put all the "factoid" data in the
> properties section of the picture file and then suck it out again so
> that the "critical" data remains with the file itself and then can be
> associated with other descriptive information in the database......

Oh, yeah.  You want to use BR photo archiver.  I have no connection with those 
folks other than a *very* satisfied* costumer.  They also respond quickly to 
questions and problems.

http://www.br-software.com/

Jerusha

-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Botany Department, University of Tennessee
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium

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Status: RO

The BR sounds cool.  The thing is that I also want to be able to, in the 
same row but different columns, show zoom-in on costume details.  Like this.

R1 C1(1532)    R1 C2 (AETISAN)   R1C3 ( OVERALL PICTURE-A)   R1C4 ( 
DETAIL)   R1C5 (ANOTHER DETAIL)


R2 C1(1577)    R2 C2 (AETISAN)   R2C3 ( OVERALL PICTURE-B)   R2C4 ( 
DETAIL-B)   R2C5 (ANOTHER DETAIL-B)


R3 C1(1590)    R3 C2 (BRUGAL)   R3C3 ( OVERALL PICTURE-C)   R3C4 ( 
DETAIL-C)   R3C5 (ANOTHER DETAIL-C)

See, my goal is to see if a certain hat type or how certain styles 
evolve over time.  I just have trouble seeing how dress style and stuff 
evolve and i was thinking this would be a good way to see it. 
Susan Farmer wrote:

>>Oh well, sounds like it is worth investigation.  I would not want to use
>>a non database type structure for this kind of thing.  Though my SQL
>>beginnings were with ACCESS, sounds like Filemaker has this area
>>topped!  BTW,  I don't think it was a waste of time at all!  What I
>>really would like to be able to do is put all the "factoid" data in the
>>properties section of the picture file and then suck it out again so
>>that the "critical" data remains with the file itself and then can be
>>associated with other descriptive information in the database......
>>    
>>
>
>Oh, yeah.  You want to use BR photo archiver.  I have no connection with those 
>folks other than a *very* satisfied* costumer.  They also respond quickly to 
>questions and problems.
>
>http://www.br-software.com/
>
>Jerusha
>
>-----
>Susan Farmer
>sfarmer@goldsword.com
>Botany Department, University of Tennessee
>http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>  
>

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mold and  "vintage" patterns
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jaurbik@optonline.net wrote:

> The patterns do smell a little and make me snnize, so-if you are 

> allergic to mold, don't say you want them!  


FYI.  All you need to do is take some baking soda and a box.  Place some 
  baking soda in bottom of the box, in-between the folds or pages of the 
pattern and on top.  Be generous.  Cover the box.  Put in a dry cool 
place for month or so.  Dump the baking soda from the box and the 
pattern. Every thing should be good as new.

I have tried this several time for books and magazines.  It eliminates 
the smell and appears to stop the spread of the mold

Your humble and obediant servant,
David S Mallinak

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Computer Help--slightly OT
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>I guess I spoke too soon....ACCESS does do it

Yes, but make sure you put LINKS to your files. If you actually put the 
images in your database, you'll end up with a **HUGE** file that'll take 
several minutes to load and will eventually start accumulating errors. 
Actually, that's also true of Word. 
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From: J Schueller <jaurbik@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Computer Help--slightly OT
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Status: RO

Maybe that was the problem. it got to huge,  I don't mind the time to 
load, but for my project I need to see the pictures....

Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:

> Yes, but make sure you put LINKS to your files. If you actually put 
> the images in your database, you'll end up with a **HUGE** file 
> that'll take several minutes to load and will eventually start 
> accumulating errors. Actually, that's also true of Word. 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>


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Date: Sun, 27 Mar 2005 23:02:04 -0500
From: "Ron Carnegie" <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Use of "Reenactor"--slightly OT
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Hello again,

	I think this is again another example of one of the specialized groups
within the broad set thinking it doesn't apply to them.  I have heard this
distinction between recreation and reenactment many times, but only amongst
the SCA.  Usually amongst those members of the SCA who do not do other types
of history.

	It is true that "Re-enactors" sometimes portray historical events, but they
often don't.  Even when they do it often is little more than a name for the
event, the actual events of which have nothing to do with the historic
"battle " or what have you.  Some of these reenactors practice the Arts and
Sciences of their periods (I for instance take wet-plate photography at 19th
century events which would be a very suitable art for an SCA laurel except
for the tricky post 1600 thing).  In fact I know of some re-enactors that
never reenact a historic event.  The real difference between the SCA and
these other sorts are the period allowed.  All of them have a far smaller
period available, and often geographic restrictions as well.

	My point here is not that your wrong, just simply that the distinction is
not generally made by those outside of the SCA.  Like many things in the
SCA, the definition of things from amongst its members often take on a
definition not necessarily used outside of the Society.  (There are by the
bye, some reenactors who do not consider SCA members as reenactors either,
but that is usually over perceived authenticity differences).

	I mean none of this as a slight to anyone.  I am by profession a Historical
Interpreter, I have volunteered as a docent, I have participated in
reenacting from the late 1300s through 1945, and have been a SCA member off
and on for the last 27 years, and consistently for the last six or seven.

	Just hope we don't get into a discussion regarding if what we wear is
costume, garb, or historic clothing!

Ron Carnegie

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Audrey Bergeron-Morin
> Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2005 4:11 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Use of "Reenactor"--slightly OT
>
>
> I'm in the SCA, so I do what I consider medieval recreation, not medieval
> re-enactment. To me, re-enactment would be to reproduce
> historical events.
> We're not doing that at all.
>
> I can't say that I object to being called a reenactor, but I
> think it's not
> an accurate description of what I'm doing.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <AnnBWass@aol.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2005 6:50 AM
> Subject: [h-cost] Use of "Reenactor"--slightly OT
>
>
> > To the esteemed list:
> >
> > I am addressing this forum with the following question:
> >
> > For those of you who do costumed living history, do you or do you not
> > object
> > to being called a "reenactor"?  Some people seem to take
> exception  to the
> > term, yet it seems to be common in other communities (American
> Civil War,
> > for
> > example).  So please share your opinions with me.
> >
> > Thanks very much.
> >
> > Ann Wass
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> _______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Mar 28 04:36:33 2005
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Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2005 03:32:08 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mn.rr.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Regency bonnet for sale
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Greetings,

I apologize for the commercial message but I have a Regency bonnet for sale 
on Ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5568545958&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&rd=1

Or #5568545958 if the link isn't working.  If you were planning on taking 
Jennie Chancey's class on costumeclassroom.com "Dressing Jane Austen: 
Making Your Own Regency Gown" this would be the perfect accessory.

Cheers,
Danielle

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Computer Help--slightly OT
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> The BR sounds cool.  The thing is that I also want to be able to, in the
> same row but different columns, show zoom-in on costume details.  Like this.
>
> R1 C1(1532)    R1 C2 (AETISAN)   R1C3 ( OVERALL PICTURE-A)   R1C4 (
> DETAIL)   R1C5 (ANOTHER DETAIL)
>
I know that you can link images together -- like if you have a detail pic and 
the full image.  You can "show only" images that meet a certain criterion
as well (only "men" or only "italian" or only "sleeves" and I know that you
can sort by date -- I"m not sure if you can sort by other details.

It's a 30 day free trial to see if it does what you want -- I don't know 
that I've done exactly what you're trying to do; but I've done a lot of cool
things with it.  You can nest categories too.  Say you have a main category
Italian -- within that you can have categoried 'men,' 'early,' 'sleeves,'
'lacing,' 'hats,' etc. so that you can see *all* of the Italian images
(sorted by date) or just a subset .....

Jerusha

-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Botany Department, University of Tennessee
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium

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Subject: [h-cost] Mind Your Manners!
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Status: RO

A friend sent me a link to this cute little game and I thought I would pass  
it along here.  Basically, it is a game on a Museum's web site that delves  
into the importance of manners in day to day life of the Victorians.  As I  sat 
here going through the part where the young lady goes for a promenade in the  
park, I was vividly contrasting it with a trip to the park by one of my own  
teenage daughters.

Mind Your Manners!

Adopt the role  of a late 19th century character...
... and try to earn your place in a world  where every move is governed by
the rules of etiquette.

_http://www.mccord-museum.qc.ca/en/keys/games/game_0/_ 
(http://www.mccord-museum.qc.ca/en/keys/games/game_0/) 
 
~Kimberley
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From: Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu>
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Chindora@aol.com wrote:

> Basically, it is a game on a Museum's web site that delves  
>into the importance of manners in day to day life of the Victorians.  
>_http://www.mccord-museum.qc.ca/en/keys/games/game_0/_ 
>(http://www.mccord-museum.qc.ca/en/keys/games/game_0/) 
> 
>
>  
>
That was fun until I got to the portion where one has invited guests for 
dinner and the answer to "what should the ladies do after dinner when 
the gentlemen are smoking" is "perform a movement from a Beethoven 
symphony for them." Ahem...unless one has hired an orchestra or is adept 
at playing multiple instruments simultaneously, one will not be hearing 
a symphony. Perhaps one might play a Beethoven Sonata...
Really now....sniff...

- Hope

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Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2005 12:29:55 -0800
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mind Your Manners!
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>That was fun until I got to the portion where one has invited guests for 
>dinner and the answer to "what should the ladies do after dinner when the 
>gentlemen are smoking" is "perform a movement from a Beethoven symphony 
>for them." Ahem...unless one has hired an orchestra or is adept at playing 
>multiple instruments simultaneously, one will not be hearing a symphony. 
>Perhaps one might play a Beethoven Sonata...
>Really now....sniff...

I wished the images were larger.  I kept missing on the costume parts game 
and the match the dress with the period game, because of small images too 
small for me to see.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
             ////-@@\\\
            ((((   7 )))
             (((  <> ))))
                )   ((((((
           /----\   /---\))

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Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2005 15:46:50 -0800 (PST)
From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Use of "Reenactor"--slightly OT   my view/2 pence worth
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Status: RO

 This whole topic got me thinking,so I went to my
Merriam -Websters and found:
 "re": 1.again:for a second time
2:anew:in a new or different form.
3:back,backward
 "enact" :to make into law(not relavant here)
2:to act out
   *enactment*

How I see this applying is: when I attend,for example,
a Renaissance Faire; they are creating or presenting
their version on the Elizabethean era 1>"for a 2nd
time"* By having people dress in costume of that era,
they are repeating it..for a second time 
2>"anew or *in a different form" *people are taller,
the cloth is not exactly like 1500 weave, Calif. in
summers weather is deffinately not England's mini ice
age.
3> back-backwards, *Well, they try to take the general
public "Back" in time as far how RPFC sees it.
Enact: 1>(skip) 2> to act out
*Yes by dressing this way and trying to talk that way,
dancing the old dances,playing the old music, they are
 2>"acting out"
 this all ='s---- re-enactment .----
 "toe MAY toe, toe Mott oh, it all good to me..."
 Melody


--- Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote:
> In my experience with writing marketing prose for
> our books, people know 
> perfectly well what is meant by "reenactor" (which I
> think is the most 
> efficient term for this audience, in terms of both
> scope of meaning and 
> brevity).  Readers are not offended by it (after
> all, it's not a slur), 
> and it has no negative effect on whether they buy a
> book. I've never 
> gotten an email "scolding" me for my use of terms,
> or on whether I 
> choose to hyphenate "reenactor."  If I did I'd
> ignore it.  I'm writing 
> marketing material to sell my books, not custom
> writing for someone 
> else.  And I have the sales figures to prove whether
>  the books sell, 
> which the average reader doesn't.
> 
> Fran
> Lavolta Press
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
> 
> <snip>
> 
> >When I speak to a lecture audience, I find I can no
> longer
> >refer casually to what "re-enactors" are interested
> in vs. what "academic
> >researchers" or "theatre costumers" are concerned
> with (a topic that comes
> >up occasionally in my talks) -- I have to be more
> verbose, e.g.
> >"re-enactors, historical interpreters, and other
> people who re-create
> >historic material culture" or some such mouthful.
> >
> >  
> >
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mind Your Manners!
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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> Mind Your Manners!
> 
> Adopt the role  of a late 19th century character...

Very interesting game...but I'm confused. Why do they have the characters wearing 18th c. clothing to the balls????

I got a 980. Those were the only two questions I got wrong!
     --Kathy K.

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mind Your Manners!
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It was a fancy dress ball.  :D
Althea


On Monday, March 28, 2005, at 05:12 PM, <kathysmassmail@verizon.net> 
wrote:

>
>> Mind Your Manners!
>>
>> Adopt the role  of a late 19th century character...
>
> Very interesting game...but I'm confused. Why do they have the 
> characters wearing 18th c. clothing to the balls????
>
> I got a 980. Those were the only two questions I got wrong!
>      --Kathy K.
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com
*** http://www.alfalfapress.com

It is proof of a base and low mind for one to wish to think with the 
masses or majority, merely because the majority is the majority. Truth 
does not change because it is, or is not, believed by a majority of the 
people.
- Giordano Bruno

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon Mar 28 23:04:03 2005
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Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2005 23:02:27 EST
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Use of "Reenactor"--slightly OT
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I find this an interesting question -- do I object or not to being called a  
re-enactor?  It honestly depends on who is doing the calling.  If  it is 
someone who is relatively new to historic inquiry, a visitor or  someone of the 
general public, I would think they were pretty enlightened to  even know the 
term.  However, if it were my daughter or husband  calling me a re-enactor, it 
would earn them a foul look and forty-seven lashes  with a wet noodle.
 
Best regards,
Susannah  
 
Susannah Eanes, Mantua Maker and Fine Tailoring
_www.virginvintage.com_ (http://www.virginvintage.com) 
 
"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."  --William  Morris
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue Mar 29 05:47:01 2005
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From: "Linda Walton" <linda.walton@dsl.pipex.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Bleach Test
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Dear Robin,
may I have your permission to send a copy of this message to my weaving list
? A member is having a similar problem, and only the burn test has been
mentioned so far.

Yours sincerely,
Linda Walton,
(in High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.).


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robin Netherton" <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2002 7:51 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] burn test question/properties of rayon


>
> On Wed, 11 Dec 2002, [iso-8859-1] Bella wrote:
>
> > Can someone please point me in the direction of
> > instructions/directions on how to perform the "bleach test"? Sounds
> > fascinating and definitely something I'd love to learn. :)
>
> Very easy. I learned it on this list, I think. I knocked the socks off my
> manager at the shop, because we had no way before this to differentiate a
> pure wool from a wool-and-natural-fiber blend.
>
> Wool and silk dissolve in bleach. Cotton, rayon, and linen do not. Do a
> burn test first to identify synthetics (hard bead or plastic residue). If
> you have a natural fiber, narrow it down by doing the following.
>
> Cut a small swatch -- half an inch square, or larger if you've got
> multiple types of threads (e.g. a stripe or plaid) so you can get samples
> of all the threads in one swatch. Put a little bleach (maybe 1/2 inch) in
> a small jar (like a baby food jar) or a glass/pyrex custard cup, and add
> the swatch. I use a toothpick or plastic spoon to poke the swatch down to
> it's wet through. Leave it for a few hours or overnight.
>
> Wool will disappear completely -- the bleach will look perfectly clear.
> Silk will disappear but usually leave a bit of residue. (Perhaps that's
> the seracin?) Cotton, linen, and rayon will remain intact, though may lose
> their color.
>
> A blend will dissolve in parts. For instance, in a wool/rayon blend where
> each thread is made of multiple fibers, the wool fibers will dissolve and
> you'll end up with a tangled mess of rayon fibers. If you have a fabric
> where whole threads of wool or silk are interwoven with whole threads of a
> non-animal fiber, such as some plaids or checks, you can get a nice grid
> pattern remaining, with empty spots in the interlacing where the animal
> fiber used to be. If one fiber is warp and one is weft, you'll end up with
> a row of the non-animal fibers lined up neatly in the bottom of the cup.
>
> It's fun to watch this happening. Wool will fizz slightly, like when you
> put peroxide on a cut. Check on it every little while and poke it with the
> toothpick to break up the fibers if necessary; it can take a while for the
> bleach to penetrate a thick fabric.
>
> --Robin
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Bleach Test
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Dear Listmembers,
I'm so sorry - I meant my last message to go personally.
Linda Walton,
(in High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.).


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Linda Walton" <linda.walton@dsl.pipex.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2005 11:44 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Bleach Test


> Dear Robin,
> may I have your permission (snip)
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Subject: [h-cost] Maybe OT Pigments Site
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For those who would like to use pigments for their artistic endeavors....

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

http://www.iconofile.com/ 
Greetings, Good Folk! 
The above URL points the way to a site that sells ground stone, among other things, with which one may make period paint. Cool!
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Subject: [h-cost] Black and White designer dress (1950?s)
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Hi, recently on one of my lists (pretty sure it was this one) someone 
pointed out a 50ish dress that was long very wide.  White with black 
(applicaes?)
I think it was strappless and had a funky little cape to go with it.  
Can you repost the url?

Thanks!

Sg
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On July 15 through 17, 2005 Margo Anderson will be appearing at the Sixth Annual Trinoc*coN Speculative Fiction/Fantasy/Science Conference in the Triangle area of North Carolina.

About Margo
Margo Anderson has been interested in costume since early childhood, and has been costuming professionally for over 25 years, making a wide range of historical, fantasy, and theatrical costumes.  In 1999 she realized a long term dream by starting her company, Historic Costume Patterns, specializing in historically accurate Elizabethan sewing patterns. On the weekend of September 7, 2002, she traveled to Michigan, where she had been invited to be the keynote speaker at the SCA's 2002 Knowne World Costume Symposium http://kwcs1.tripod.com/index.htm.

Margo is a third generation SF reader, and the granddaughter of SF writer L. Jerome Stanton. She lives in a small town in the Northern California foothills with her husband, the writer Wayne Anderson, and her two sons. For relaxation, she enjoys singing, belly dancing, reading, and spending too much time on the Net.

More information on Margo and her patterns can be found on her personal website at: http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm or her patterning website at: http://www.margospatterns.com/

About Trinoc*coN
My name is Donna Bates, I won a first, second and two third place ribbons at the 2004 NC State Fair for my Elizabethan Noblewoman's dress, a Mandarin Collared Blouse, and an Elizabethan Noblewoman's Tall Hat and Feathered Fan - all but the Mandarin Collared Blouse made with Margo's Patterns.  I've been creating costumes for Renaissance Faire-goers for several years now and all of those things combined have given me the chance for the last 2 years to be the Costume Coordinator at the annual Trinoc*coN Conference.  Trinoc*coN is held annually and embraces the speculative sides of art, literature, science, gaming, costuming and media.  We hold an art auction as well as our annual charity auction, whose proceeds go to benefit the Wake County Literacy Council. The charity auction is possible because of items donated by our members/attendees as well as local businesses and exclusive, one of a kind collector items from our guests.  Our past guests have included fantasy artist Ursula Vernon; author Lois McMaster Bujold and James Conrad from NASA.

Trinoc*coN also holds panels to discuss a wide variety of subjects in the areas of scifi/fantasy and speculation; we have gaming for the entire family; there are musical guests who hold concerts and classes on historical music appreciation; there are competitions in miniature painting and costuming; we have workshops for writers, artists, comics, costuming and such diverse areas as SCA (Society for Creative Anachronism) crafts, silver-clay demonstrations; and one of our most popular events is our "Critter Costuming" where attendees each receive an 11" articulated teddy bear and choosing from piles of scrap fabrics and trims create a costume on the bear using needle and thread as well as glue.  The attendees may then enter their costumed bear into our annual contest and win prizes or just take it home with them.  We offer this event free with the price of their admission/membership fee to the conference and anyone may take part.

Margo will be holding panels and workshops on costuming and it's relationships to art and literature at our 2005 Conference and as word has hit the costuming world of her attendance we've received a larger number of inquiries for memberships/admissions.

Fellow sewers, costumers, and all around "crafty folk", I invite you to attend our Conference this year!  We will be holding our annual Costume Masquerade; our annual Hall Contest for those in costume but who are too shy to get on stage; the "Critter Costuming" competition as well as workshops in Silver Clay taught by local artist Scott Cover.  If you've ever wanted to create custom buttons, beads or embellishments for your outfits, Scott will show you how to make items out of genuine silver in a clay form.

And for those who want to show their ingenious creative side enter our First IRON SEAMSTRESSES Competition.  You and 3 of your friends, along with the $25.00 entry fee, and using no more than $100.00 of newly purchased materials and components (and no more than 25% of the cost to be from pre-constructed/purchased items - i.e., boots, hats, etc.) construct a costume - pick historical, theatrical, comic, scifi, fantasy, past, present, futuristic, any timeframe, genre or dimension and compete with other teams for the chance to win the Grand Prize taken from the entry fees (½ of all entry fees are placed into the prize fund, ½ of all entry fees are placed into the Trinoc*coN operating fund for the upcoming 2006 Conference).  This is a one prize only competition, the winning team wins the entire prize amount!  So the easiest way to win a big prize is to get as many of your friends to team up and enter too!

We'd like to invite everyone with any interest in costuming, science, literature, art or gaming to plan to join us for our conference to meet Margo and her husband Wayne and take part in our panels, discussions, workshops and costuming events. Please go to the Trinoc-coN website at www.trinoc-con.org to pre-register to attend or to get more information.  To contact the Costuming Coordinator please send email directly to costuming@trinoc-con.org 




Donna Bates,
Conference Co-Chair
Trinoc-coN VI
July 15-17, 2005
The Premier Research Triangle Speculative Fiction Conference
Durham, North Carolina http://www.trinoc-con.org
email:  costuming@trinoc-con.org 


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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Use of "Reenactor"--slightly OT
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(Coming in late to the discussion after the Easter break.) 
"Reenactment" is the usual term for the activity here in the UK (don't
know about British SCA, though). In my society we use "living history"
for the people who camp in period style and demonstrate crafts etc. to
the public, as distinct from the majority who use modern tents/caravans
and do the battle reenactment. 

I've never heard the word "docent" used here - I suppose they would be
called something like "costumed interpreters".

Kate Bunting
Librarian & 17c reenactor
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Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2005 08:15:52 -0800 (PST)
From: Mary <hanstar88@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Computer Help--slightly OT
To: h-costume@indra.com
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I use Adobe Photoshop 7.0 at work and have been taking a class on the
new Photoshop CS, and it has a pretty cool feature which allows you
to add keywords and metadata to photos.  Then you can search for
photos by the keyword(s) you want.  However, it's a rather pricey way
to organize your collection ($300+).

There's also another Adobe product called Photoshop Album, which
allows you to assign "categories" to photos.  Then you can display
all the photos in a category.  It's basically a "mini-Photoshop" and
it's much cheaper, but it probably doesn't have the processing power
you're looking for.

Just my $0.02...
~Mary  

> Date: Sat, 26 Mar 2005 20:01:33 -0700
> From: Wicked Frau <wickedfrau@earthlink.net>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Computer Help--slightly OT
> 
> Wow, I didn't know Filemaker was still around!  I had used it years
> 
> ago.....or maybe I am confusing that with FoxPro....Filemaker I
> used 
> only 3 or 4 years ago.
> Oh well, sounds like it is worth investigation.  I would not want
> to use 
> a non database type structure for this kind of thing.  Though my
> SQL 
> beginnings were with ACCESS, sounds like Filemaker has this area 
> topped!  BTW,  I don't think it was a waste of time at all!  What I
> 
> really would like to be able to do is put all the "factoid" data in
> the 
> properties section of the picture file and then suck it out again
> so 
> that the "critical" data remains with the file itself and then can
> be 
> associated with other descriptive information in the database......
> 
> Oh why, Oh why did I become a mechanical engineer, when computers
> are 
> SOOOO much coooler!
> 
> Sg
> 


"Pictures of perfection, as you know, make me sick & wicked."
~ Jane Austen

"Right now I'm having amnesia and deja vu at the same time.  I think I've forgotten this before."      ~ Steven Wright
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Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2005 19:21:35 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Use of "Reenactor"--slightly OT
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As far as I'm aware British SCA use "reenactment" as well - but the SCA 
this side of the pond is a very different beast from the SCA in the US, 
just because of the different influences around it.

I get the impression from other people's posts that in the US 
"reenactment" is seen more precisely as doing a specific event, in the 
original location, as it originally happened, etc, mainly ACW battles. 
That particular approach is less common in the UK, possibly because our 
battles on UK soil are longer ago and we don't have the same amount of 
documentation about exactly how they went. And while we might do a 
particular battle occasionally, for a special anniversary for example, 
the same groups will be out the next weekend just representing a typical 
skirmish that might have happened around that time.  So there's less 
emphasis on making those distinctions.

Jean



Kate M Bunting <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> wrote
>(Coming in late to the discussion after the Easter break.)
>"Reenactment" is the usual term for the activity here in the UK (don't
>know about British SCA, though). In my society we use "living history"
>for the people who camp in period style and demonstrate crafts etc. to
>the public, as distinct from the majority who use modern tents/caravans
>and do the battle reenactment.
>
>I've never heard the word "docent" used here - I suppose they would be
>called something like "costumed interpreters".
>
>Kate Bunting
>Librarian & 17c reenactor
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

-- 
Jean Waddie
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Use of "Reenactor"--slightly OT
In-Reply-To: <grmOsIBv4uSCJwdY@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
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>I get the impression from other people's posts that in the US 
>"reenactment" is seen more precisely as doing a specific event, in the 
>original location, as it originally happened, etc, mainly ACW battles. 
>That particular approach is less common in the UK, possibly because our 
>battles on UK soil are longer ago and we don't have the same amount of 
>documentation about exactly how they went. And while we might do a 
>particular battle occasionally, for a special anniversary for example, the 
>same groups will be out the next weekend just representing a typical 
>skirmish that might have happened around that time.  So there's less 
>emphasis on making those distinctions.

In the US, American Civil War re-enactors don't always do actual battles on 
the actual sites.  In California, for example, this is almost impossible, 
yet there are hundreds of re-enactors here.  Mostly these people skirmish 
in a period manner, and sometimes they re-create part of, or all of, of a 
battle originally fought thousands of miles away on the other side of the 
country.  Yet they consistently call themselves re-enactors.

Renaissance Faire participants in California think of themselves as doing 
living history, because the first Ren. Faire here was put on by the Living 
History Center (they may have invented the term) in the late 1960s.  Ren. 
Faire people usually call themselves 'participants' because that's what the 
management of these Faires call them.  But if people own, or work for, 
craft or food booths, they call themselves 'boothies'.  Or if they get paid 
for their stage acts, they call themselves 'performers'.  People who come 
to play with the participants, and buy season tickets to do so, often get 
called 'playtrons' where the usual customer is officially called a 
'patron'.  Many people just go to Faires to be with their friends who work 
the Faires, and they don't call themselves by any special name.  None of 
these people think of themselves as re-enactors and certainly not as docents.

People in California who give guided tours of historical sites, while 
wearing historical costumes, usually call themselves docents if they are 
talking about historical events in the third person.  They think of 
themselves as doing living history if they are portraying someone who lived 
in, or would have lived in, the historical period in question, and these 
people talk about the same historical events in the first person.  Docents 
typically dress "old timey" rather than in accurate historical clothing 
reproductions, and it's the rare docent, or site, that cares about costumes 
accurate to the period of the site or giving historical information in the 
first person.  Some of these historical sites have specific Living History 
Days.  These events have the usual staff of docents and may attract 
non-docent living history people from elsewhere.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
             ////-@@\\\
            ((((   7 )))
             (((  <> ))))
                )   ((((((
           /----\   /---\))

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Mar 30 17:40:01 2005
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@iimetro.com.au>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: OT international DVDs
Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2005 10:22:03 +1000
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for those in Australia, somebody has recently told me that the ACCC
(Australian Competition and Consumers Commission I think) has ruled that
limiting DVDs by region is anti competitive and they are putting in steps to
make sure that DVDs sold in Australia are not region coded and I think they
may also be stopping the sale of single region DVD players so in the
relatively near future we should hopefully see this problem disappearing.
Elizabeth
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Formo, Nathan" <formo@lynchburg.edu>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 23, 2005 12:18 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: OT international DVDs


> I recently had a similar problem.  A DVD I got for Christmas was coded for
the UK only.  However I have a DVD burner on my PC at work.  Most PC's will
not stop you from using foreign DVDs.  Using some publicly available
software I was able to copy my DVD and when it did it removed the region
code from the new DVD I burned.  Yes, this did take a little bit of work but
as far as I know this does not violate copywrite laws.  The copy was for my
personal use and I own the original.  Since the DVD is unavailable with a US
region code it's not like I had any other options.
>
> BjÇ«rn Arnaldsson
>
> Lord Bjorn Arnaldsson
> Barony of Black Diamond
>
>
>
>
> >
> >Elizabeth is right about the zones, but multi-zone DVD players
> >aren't all that hard to find, nor are they necessarily more
> >expensive. My husband and I bought our multi-zone DVD player
> >18 months ago from J&B Hi-Fi ( which seems to have shops in
> >every state except the Northern Territory ) for
> >AUS$150.00-ish. Yes, it was on special, but the normal price
> >wasn't so much dearer. It isn't a brand we had ever heard of,
> >but it does what it is supposed to, which is to play DVDs.
> >DVD record/write/rewrite/play on the other hand..... they are
> >much more expensive. ( One day, one day..... ;-)  )
> >
> >Joannah ( in Brisbane, Australia )
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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> 
> Just hope we don't get into a discussion regarding if what we wear is
> costume, garb, or historic clothing!
> 
> Ron Carnegie


How about just "clothes"?

Dianne
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> > Adopt the role  of a late 19th century character...
>
>Very interesting game...but I'm confused. Why do they have the characters 
>wearing 18th c. clothing to the balls????

If you squint really hard, you'll see that it's the 19th century version of 
the 18th century, and I believe they did say 'fancy dress'.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2005 20:42:36 -0500
From: J Schueller <jaurbik@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mind Your Manners!
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Its a "Fancy Dreses Party", which I take (from my reading of regancy 
romances-my historic period is ealier) is supposed to be a costume party. 

J Schueller

kathysmassmail@verizon.net wrote:

>>Mind Your Manners!
>>
>>Adopt the role  of a late 19th century character...
>>    
>>
>
>Very interesting game...but I'm confused. Why do they have the characters wearing 18th c. clothing to the balls????
>
>I got a 980. Those were the only two questions I got wrong!
>     --Kathy K.
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>  
>

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Bleach Test
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This reminds me, though, of something I learned when I forgot about a bleach 
test after deciding to leave it going 'a bit longer.'  I had a swatch that I 
was pretty sure was a linen weft with a silk warp, and sure enough, after 
several hours the warp was all gone. However, when I found it again a few 
days later, still soaking, I was surprised to notice that the linen was 
about halfway gone as well! I left it in longer after that, to see what 
would happen, and after about 2 weeks there was nothing left but a bit of 
cloudy residue. (And oddly enough, the bleach was no longer able to bleach! 
I tried putting another swatch in that container, but even though I knew it 
was bleachable, it barely if at all changed color.  In fresh bleach, it 
changed color almost immediately.)

I think it may have a bit to do with the fact that the linen fibers in that 
swatch were spun very loosely, if at all; I've had a tightly spun & woven 
linen twill swatch in undiluted clorox bleach for a month, and have only 
lost maybe 10% at most of it.  Some of Fabric-Store's turel has been in for 
the same length of time, and seems to have lost a bit as well, but not 
enough for me to be sure.  I had some interesting experiences with a swatch 
of odd poly cloth, but since it was an unidentified c1960s fabric I'm not 
certain that it was unblended.  If I ever get bored, I'll put in some hemp, 
cotton, tencel, etc swatches for a few months. Aahhh, kitchen experiments.

-E

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Bleach Test
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On Tue, 29 Mar 2005, Linda Walton wrote:

> may I have your permission to send a copy of this message to my weaving list
> ? A member is having a similar problem, and only the burn test has been
> mentioned so far.

That was meant personally, but I'll answer on-list in case anyone else
wants it: Sure! I didn't invent the method, just wrote it up.

--Robin


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> Dear Listmembers,
> I'm so sorry - I meant my last message to go personally.
> Linda Walton,
> (in High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.).
>
>
Hey, I"m glad it didn't.  This was *new* information for me!

thanks,
Susan/ Jerusha

-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Botany Department, University of Tennessee
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium

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Isn't it at the Met?



Nancy Kiel
nancy_kiel@hotmail.com
Never tease a weasel!
This is very good advice.
For the weasel will not like it
And teasing isn't nice.




>From: Wicked Frau <wickedfrau@earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>To: "h-costume@indra.com" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] Black and White designer dress (1950?s)
>Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2005 19:29:28 -0700
>
>Hi, recently on one of my lists (pretty sure it was this one) someone 
>pointed out a 50ish dress that was long very wide.  White with black 
>(applicaes?)
>I think it was strappless and had a funky little cape to go with it.  Can 
>you repost the url?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Sg
>_______________________________________________
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In a message dated 3/30/2005 6:25:01 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
jaurbik@optonline.net writes:

ts a  "Fancy Dreses Party", which I take (from my reading of regancy 
romances-my  historic period is ealier) is supposed to be a costume party.  



Ah, yes.  And that is why so many extant 18th century dresses have  been 
mucked with--people dug them out of the attic, trunk, or whatever, and  altered 
them to wear for fancy dress.  While we lament the alteration, at  least, I 
guess, that helped insure their survival.  
 
Ann Wass
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Just wanted to introduce myself to the group. My name is Jodi Nelson and I have been costuming for 4 years now. I live in St.George, UT.Just up the road from me is the Utah Shakespere Festval and in our town is the Tuahcan Center for the Performing Arts, as well as a few other theatre groups. I am looking to start making costumes full-time and selling them on the 'Net. I have been receiving the posts here for a little while and am enjoying them very much.

		
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Well that was what  I thought too, and darned if I can't find it!  I so 
want to see it again and I can't believe I did not bookmark it!

Nancy Kiel wrote:

> Isn't it at the Met?
>
>
>
> Nancy Kiel
> nancy_kiel@hotmail.com
> Never tease a weasel!
> This is very good advice.
> For the weasel will not like it
> And teasing isn't nice.
>
>
>
>
>> From: Wicked Frau <wickedfrau@earthlink.net>
>> Reply-To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>> To: "h-costume@indra.com" <h-costume@indra.com>
>> Subject: [h-cost] Black and White designer dress (1950?s)
>> Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2005 19:29:28 -0700
>>
>> Hi, recently on one of my lists (pretty sure it was this one) someone 
>> pointed out a 50ish dress that was long very wide.  White with black 
>> (applicaes?)
>> I think it was strappless and had a funky little cape to go with it.  
>> Can you repost the url?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Sg
>> _______________________________________________
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>
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Welcome Jodi...lots of nice folks here !

Sg

Jodi Nelson wrote:

>Just wanted to introduce myself to the group. My name is Jodi Nelson and I have been costuming for 4 years now. I live in St.George, UT.Just up the road from me is the Utah Shakespere Festval and in our town is the Tuahcan Center for the Performing Arts, as well as a few other theatre groups. I am looking to start making costumes full-time and selling them on the 'Net. I have been receiving the posts here for a little while and am enjoying them very much.
>
>		
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>  
>
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It was new news to me. thansk for teh heads up it has helped me ID some material that My mom gave me that has been sitting about for 30+ years or so! 
 
Satine

Susan Farmer <sfarmer@utk.edu> wrote:
> Dear Listmembers,
> I'm so sorry - I meant my last message to go personally.
> Linda Walton,
> (in High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.).
>
>
Hey, I"m glad it didn't. This was *new* information for me!

thanks,
Susan/ Jerusha

-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
Botany Department, University of Tennessee
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium

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Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2005 17:59:36 -0800 (PST)
From: Lady Satine <seamuslady@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Bleach Test
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I have been having trouble with he land line connection... hopefully its fixed... anyway I lost several msgs.. and was wondering if this was the site that mentioned teh Dyes and Dyeing. if so would someone please re-post for me thanks!
 
Satine



		
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Lady Satine wrote:

> I lost several msgs.

Mail is still coming through irregularly; every day or two some messages 
come through that are 4 days old, while I've been appearing to get 
regular messages.

So your missing messages may yet arrive.

cv
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Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2005 14:20:19 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mind Your Manners!
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AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

> 
>In a message dated 3/30/2005 6:25:01 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
>jaurbik@optonline.net writes:
>
>ts a  "Fancy Dreses Party", which I take (from my reading of regancy 
>romances-my  historic period is ealier) is supposed to be a costume party.  
>
>  
>
_I'd_ call that a fancy dress party.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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From: Lady Satine <seamuslady@yahoo.com>
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I saw this one, But I am not sure what site it is from... I went to open it and then blink, Blue Screen of Death, then Black screen   computer system rebooting....  our apt bldg apparently had old wires that needed to be replaced.... I will wait a couple day to see if that msg comes through again. I have been getting duplicate msg from this site! 
 
Satine
 
 

Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue+dated+1127786679.901ff0@thibault.org> wrote:
Lady Satine wrote:

> I lost several msgs.

Mail is still coming through irregularly; every day or two some messages 
come through that are 4 days old, while I've been appearing to get 
regular messages.

So your missing messages may yet arrive.

cv
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed Mar 30 22:33:03 2005
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Hi folks,
	I have a question for Drea, or anyone else familiar with 17th century 
underwear. I'm slowly in process of making a 17th century Dutch dress 
(along with about 5 other various outfits) and I ws looking at the 
measurements for the smock/chemise.

	I used Drea's custom fit smock generator but I'm not sure.... are 17th 
century smocks supposed to be huge and baggy? It's pretty much the exact 
same pattern as your basic viking smock (2 side gores, 2 underarm 
gusstes). But my viking smocks are much more, well, not exactly fitted, 
but not really baggy. I compared my normal smocks with the meaurements 
that came on the smock generator and there's about 9" difference in the 
width of the body panel and another 5" width on each of the side gore 
halves. If I make it as big as the chart says, it's going to be voluminous.

	Are they supposed to be that big at this time?? Maybe it is, I don't 
know! But I don't want to cut the fabric until I know which set of 
numbers to use.

	Thanks.

	-Judy Mitchell
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] elizabethan smocks
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 I compared my normal smocks with the
> meaurements that came on the smock generator and there's about 9"
difference in the width of the body panel and another 5" width on each
of the side gore halves. If I make it as big as the chart says, it's
going to be voluminous.
> 
> 	

When I used the generator it came out with what I thought was too large
measurements, I'm guessing the fuller bust line may have something to
do with it, do I made a few adjustments and was happy with it in the
end

Alex
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Mar 31 01:05:43 2005
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] elizabethan smocks
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At 22:32 30/03/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi folks,
>         I have a question for Drea, or anyone else familiar with 17th 
> century underwear. I'm slowly in process of making a 17th century Dutch 
> dress (along with about 5 other various outfits) and I ws looking at the 
> measurements for the smock/chemise.
>
>         I used Drea's custom fit smock generator but I'm not sure.... are 
> 17th century smocks supposed to be huge and baggy? It's pretty much the 
> exact same pattern as your basic viking smock (2 side gores, 2 underarm 
> gusstes). But my viking smocks are much more, well, not exactly fitted, 
> but not really baggy. I compared my normal smocks with the meaurements 
> that came on the smock generator and there's about 9" difference in the 
> width of the body panel and another 5" width on each of the side gore 
> halves. If I make it as big as the chart says, it's going to be voluminous.
>
>         Are they supposed to be that big at this time?? Maybe it is, I 
> don't know! But I don't want to cut the fabric until I know which set of 
> numbers to use.


The smock that I measured at the Museum of London is 46" around at 
approximately the bust point. From the shoulder seam it is 8" down for the 
sleeve, 3" down for the underarm gusset, then I took the measurement from 
there. It is approximately 45" from the shoulder to the hem. The linen is 
very fine, but it is impossible to judge whether it was that fine 
originally, or has washed thin with age.

Hope that helps.

Suzi


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Mar 31 03:18:37 2005
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From: "Kate M Bunting" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] elizabethan smocks
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Hi, Judy,
Is there some confusion here - Drea's site is for 16th century, surely.
Though I don't suppose the smocks were very different in cut.
My 17th century shifts look voluminous on me, but then, I'm only small!
I've never taken much trouble over measurement, other than length, of
course - they fit where they touch.

Kate Bunting
Librarian & 17c reenactor

>>> judymitch@oldwaylane.net 31/03/2005 04:32:59 >>>
Hi folks,
	I have a question for Drea, or anyone else familiar with 17th
century 
underwear. I'm slowly in process of making a 17th century Dutch dress 
(along with about 5 other various outfits) and I ws looking at the 
measurements for the smock/chemise.

	I used Drea's custom fit smock generator but I'm not sure....
are 17th 
century smocks supposed to be huge and baggy? It's pretty much the
exact 
same pattern as your basic viking smock (2 side gores, 2 underarm 
gusstes). But my viking smocks are much more, well, not exactly fitted,

but not really baggy. I compared my normal smocks with the meaurements

that came on the smock generator and there's about 9" difference in the

width of the body panel and another 5" width on each of the side gore 
halves. If I make it as big as the chart says, it's going to be
voluminous.

	Are they supposed to be that big at this time?? Maybe it is, I
don't 
know! But I don't want to cut the fabric until I know which set of 
numbers to use.

	Thanks.

	-Judy Mitchell
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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At 09:16 31/03/2005 +0100, you wrote:
>Hi, Judy,
>Is there some confusion here - Drea's site is for 16th century, surely.
>Though I don't suppose the smocks were very different in cut.
>My 17th century shifts look voluminous on me, but then, I'm only small!
>I've never taken much trouble over measurement, other than length, of
>course - they fit where they touch.


I forgot to mention in my post - the smock I measured at the Museum of 
London is dated 1605-10.

Suzi




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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Mar 31 06:53:45 2005
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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <424B6F6B.10405@oldwaylane.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] elizabethan smocks
Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2005 23:52:06 +1200
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Hvaing looked at images recently and coming up with a workable pattern for
me, you'll probably be best off doing the same, to come up with a with you
think is rght for you.

There are several extant late mid 16th to late 17th century smocks around.
http://images.vam.ac.uk
type in chemise and you'll see a two, including on of Lady Clapham's night
gown and a photo of her wearing her shift (she's a doll of 1690-1700)
The other is a 1630 smock handily displayed nearly flat.
Smock will bring up the 1630s smock and an Italian squarenecked one. Heavily
embroidered.

http://home.earthlink.net/~magdlena/shirt/index.html
After looking at this and photos of where seams lie, I basically cut  my
linen in half lengthwise (115cm wide or there abouts) cut one strip to go
hem to neck to hem, cut the gores from the other half of the fabric width,
plus under arm gussets, then cut the sleeves to the length/width required
depending on era. So my German ones are wider, and my Spanish one is
narrower and tapers.
The boy's shirt didn't have side gores.

I managed to cut two nicely full but not puffy hemden from 3.5m of fabric.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/glittersweet/costume/hemd2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/glittersweet/costume/hemd1.jpg

http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/16thunderwear.htm
The smock is my Spanish one and heavily influenced by the smock in the V&A
with pink crossed stitched down the seams.
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/valois.htm
more info
there.http://www.costumes.org/travel/00pages/paris2001playoflight1.htm
The 17thC SPanish shirt that also influenced my pattern.

No doubt you'll have seen the Bath and V&A smocks on Drea's site as well.
They will give a guage of fullness as well.

http://www.kipar.demon.co.uk/renaissance.html
Another one to give an idea of fullness in the 16thC.

michaela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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I am trying to figure out how mariner's cuffs work circa 1690-1720.  To me
it looks like its just a pocket flap that 3-buttons the sleeve closed.  Does
this go over the seam of the arm though?  Like the pocket is on one side and
the buttons are on the other?

This one is a little later but will give you the idea
http://www.nmm.ac.uk/mag/pages/mnuExplore/PaintingDetail.cfm?letter=c&ID=BHC
3017
and
http://www.nmm.ac.uk/collections/CollectionsDetail.cfm?ID=UNI0006&picture=0

The coat I am trying to make is more of a short jacket than a fancy
justaucorps in the pictures above... 

Any suggestions?

Thanks

Greg
www.gentlemenoffortune.com 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] elizabethan smocks
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Kate M Bunting wrote:
> Hi, Judy,
> Is there some confusion here - Drea's site is for 16th century, surely.

	whoops! you're right. The Dutch dress I'm doing is the about the same 
time as Elizabethan England (Gerard Ter Borch painting). And the lovely 
thing is that apparently the Dutch didn't bother with farthingales 
because they felt it was too Spanish and didn't want to have anything to 
do with it! Otherwise the look is pretty similar.



> Though I don't suppose the smocks were very different in cut.
> My 17th century shifts look voluminous on me, but then, I'm only small!
> I've never taken much trouble over measurement, other than length, of
> course - they fit where they touch.

	I'm just used to smocks that are sorta semi-fitted. This has me adding 
nearly a foot and a half (or more?) width in the body panel (adding onto 
both front and back) and adding in another 20" at the hem. sounds like a 
tent compared to what I'm used to. But maybe it's supposed to? If Suzi 
measured one that is 46" across (across the front, or circumference??), 
then maybe it is supposed to be a tent.

	-Judy Mitchell
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mind Your Manners!
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Urf. Was anyone else entirely unable to get this game to start? I tried it 
on two separate computers, and no matter how creatively I clicked on the 
portraits and everything else in sight, absolutely nothing would happen.  Is 
there a trick to it?

(Maybe all my spam and popup blocker stuff is coming back to bite me...)

-E

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] elizabethan smocks
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At 09:05 31/03/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>Kate M Bunting wrote:
>>Hi, Judy,
>>Is there some confusion here - Drea's site is for 16th century, surely.
>
>         whoops! you're right. The Dutch dress I'm doing is the about the 
> same time as Elizabethan England (Gerard Ter Borch painting). And the 
> lovely thing is that apparently the Dutch didn't bother with farthingales 
> because they felt it was too Spanish and didn't want to have anything to 
> do with it! Otherwise the look is pretty similar.
>
>
>
>>Though I don't suppose the smocks were very different in cut.
>>My 17th century shifts look voluminous on me, but then, I'm only small!
>>I've never taken much trouble over measurement, other than length, of
>>course - they fit where they touch.
>
>         I'm just used to smocks that are sorta semi-fitted. This has me 
> adding nearly a foot and a half (or more?) width in the body panel 
> (adding onto both front and back) and adding in another 20" at the hem. 
> sounds like a tent compared to what I'm used to. But maybe it's supposed 
> to? If Suzi measured one that is 46" across (across the front, or 
> circumference??), then maybe it is supposed to be a tent.

Sorry again - that is all round at the bust line. Slopes out to the 
hem  (88" total) which has gussets - very like the 18th century American 
ones. The shoulder, from centre front fold (i.e. one quarter) is 9", so the 
whole thing slopes from narrow (ish) shoulders to wide hem. So on a woman 
of 36" bust there would only be  10" extra at bust level, or thereabouts. I 
have not yet made this up, but someone else has and says it is fine.

Suzi

Suzi

>         -Judy Mitchell
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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>


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E House wrote:

> Urf. Was anyone else entirely unable to get this game to start? I tried 
> it on two separate computers, and no matter how creatively I clicked on 
> the portraits and everything else in sight, absolutely nothing would 
> happen.  Is there a trick to it?
> 
> (Maybe all my spam and popup blocker stuff is coming back to bite me...)
> 

It requires the *latest* version of Flash. Personally, I hit the "back" 
button rather than download a new plug-in for something that trivial. 
More often than not it 'breaks' my computer and it's more trouble than 
it's worth.



Dawn



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Subject: [h-cost] Mariner's Cuffs
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I am trying to figure out how mariner's cuffs work circa 1690-1720.  To me
it looks like its just a pocket flap that 3-buttons the sleeve closed.  Does
this go over the seam of the arm though?  Like the pocket is on one side and
the buttons are on the other?

This one is a little later but will give you the idea
http://www.nmm.ac.uk/mag/pages/mnuExplore/PaintingDetail.cfm?letter=c&ID=BHC
3017
and
http://www.nmm.ac.uk/collections/CollectionsDetail.cfm?ID=UNI0006&picture=0

The coat I am trying to make is more of a short jacket than a fancy
justaucorps in the pictures above... 

Any suggestions?

Thanks

Greg
www.gentlemenoffortune.com 


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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
> It requires the *latest* version of Flash. Personally, I hit the "back" 
> button rather than download a new plug-in for something that trivial. More 
> often than not it 'breaks' my computer and it's more trouble than it's 
> worth.

Ahh.  I got a new version of flash about a month ago, so of COURSE it's now 
out of date! =}  Definitely not worth it, but I got so annoyed at not being 
able to make it work that I'm going to do it anyway.

-E



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>>> judymitch@oldwaylane.net 31/03/2005 15:05:12 >>> wrote:

> The Dutch dress I'm doing is the about the same 
>time as Elizabethan England (Gerard Ter Borch painting).

No - Elizabeth I died in 1603 and Gerard Ter Borch was born in 1617!
See http://cgfa.sunsite.dk/terborch/terborch_bio.htm 
Farthingales were not worn in either the Low Countries or England in
his time.

Kate Bunting
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Has anyone made Butterick's B4484?  It has a corset, pannier, and
some other 18th century type underwear.  What are people's opinion's on
the corset and panniers?

I just joined the list, so if this was already discussed, I apologize.  I
am still learning how to search the archive.

Kate
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Just wanted to introduce myself to the group. My name is Jodi Nelson and
I have been costuming for 4 years now. I live in St.George, UT.Just up
the road from me is the Utah Shakespere Festval and in our town is the
Tuahcan Center for the Performing Arts, as well as a few other theatre
groups. I am looking to start making costumes full-time and selling them
on the 'Net. I have been receiving the posts here for a little while and
am enjoying them very much.

-------------------------------------

Welcome to the asylum! ;)

As you are in Utah, will you be attending the fast approaching Costume
Con? I'm not able to attend this year, darn it, but am looking forward
to stories and pictures.

Kate McClure
Who will be an 'accident victim' this weekend, to give first-aid folks a
chance to practice what to do when faced with a corseted person in need.

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Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2005 08:56:16 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] butterick 4484, corset patter
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
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> Has anyone made Butterick's B4484?  It has a corset, pannier, and
> some other 18th century type underwear.  What are people's opinion's on
> the corset and panniers?
>
> I just joined the list, so if this was already discussed, I apologize.  I
> am still learning how to search the archive.
>
> Kate

Kate,

That pattern is pretty new so you may very well be the pioneer!  There was
a pretty lengthy discussion about how the pattern *looked* and if you
search the archive, you will probably find the information.

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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Denim is a twill weave, which was done in peroid.  I don't remember the
specifics of how denim is constructed, but since other twills were produced,
it's probably passable depending on how accurate you want to be about 
such things.

Kate

> Message: 11
> Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2005 08:40:51 -0700
> From: Wicked Frau <wickedfrau@earthlink.net>
> Subject: [h-cost] What is the history of denim weave?
> To: "h-costume@indra.com" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Message-ID: <424C1A03.8080509@earthlink.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
> 
> Fashion fabrics club has some interesting wool denim blends.  I know 
> they are not considered "period" (1400-1650).  But what exactly is denim 
> weave?  Just curious if it was something that was achievable during the 
> time and they didn't have it, or???
> 
> Thanks for you all who are more versed in textile stuff than I.
> 
> Sg
> 
> 
> 
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Denim is a simple 2-2 twill weave.  This twill weave has been used for 
thousands of years in wool.  What is the "wool denim" blend?  Is it a 
mixture of cotton and wool?  If it is, then the blend is modern, but the 
weave is ancient.
Joan Jurancich
spinner, weaver, textile history fanatic <g>

At 12:24 PM 3/31/2005 -0600, you wrote:
>Denim is a twill weave, which was done in peroid.  I don't remember the
>specifics of how denim is constructed, but since other twills were produced,
>it's probably passable depending on how accurate you want to be about
>such things.
>
>Kate
>
> > Message: 11
> > Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2005 08:40:51 -0700
> > From: Wicked Frau <wickedfrau@earthlink.net>
> > Subject: [h-cost] What is the history of denim weave?
> > To: "h-costume@indra.com" <h-costume@indra.com>
> > Message-ID: <424C1A03.8080509@earthlink.net>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
> >
> > Fashion fabrics club has some interesting wool denim blends.  I know
> > they are not considered "period" (1400-1650).  But what exactly is denim
> > weave?  Just curious if it was something that was achievable during the
> > time and they didn't have it, or???
> >
> > Thanks for you all who are more versed in textile stuff than I.
> >
> > Sg
> >
> >
> >
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Hello,
I am looking to get an Adjustable DressForm; but I am unsure about 
which one is best and easiest to work with - can anyone provide some 
advice, opinions and/or help?

Thanks!
Wendi



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Subject: [h-cost] Dress Form Help


> Hello,
> I am looking to get an Adjustable DressForm; but I am unsure about
> which one is best and easiest to work with - can anyone provide some
> advice, opinions and/or help?
>
> Thanks!
> Wendi

Mine is a second hand "My Double" dress form.  It's made of compressable 
high density foam, with a removable cloth cover that can be customized to 
fit you exactly.  It also has extra covers so that you can use it for more 
than one person, as long as they're remotely the same size (I'm a size 
16/18, I can adjust it down to about a 12, but not as far as my size 3 
daughter).  I have no idea if they're still being sold, I got mine second 
hand about 20 years ago.

Melusine 

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dress Form Help
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I reccomend the duct-tape doubles.  They are cheap and easy to make.  Do 
a search on google for body double duct tape etc.  and you'll find free 
directions .  I think Taunton press has instructions on their Threads 
site.  Don't pay for the instructions!

Sg

Carmen Beaudry wrote:

> Subject: [h-cost] Dress Form Help
>
>
>> Hello,
>> I am looking to get an Adjustable DressForm; but I am unsure about
>> which one is best and easiest to work with - can anyone provide some
>> advice, opinions and/or help?
>>
>> Thanks!
>> Wendi
>
>
> Mine is a second hand "My Double" dress form.  It's made of 
> compressable high density foam, with a removable cloth cover that can 
> be customized to fit you exactly.  It also has extra covers so that 
> you can use it for more than one person, as long as they're remotely 
> the same size (I'm a size 16/18, I can adjust it down to about a 12, 
> but not as far as my size 3 daughter).  I have no idea if they're 
> still being sold, I got mine second hand about 20 years ago.
>
> Melusine
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dress Form Help
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In a message dated 3/31/2005 11:23:03 AM Mountain Standard Time, 
moreplentyn@earthlink.net writes:
I have no idea if they're still being sold, I got mine second 
hand about 20 years ago.
They ("Uniquily You Forms") can still be found at Atlana Thread and Supply.  
I swear by them for my larger actors, who tend to have more widely varying 
shapes.  Call 1-800-847-1001.  They cost $135.99 .  They come in five adjustible 
sizes, or you can request a catalogue with more information, as they are also 
a good source for other sewing supplies, especially industrial supplies and 
tailoring supplies. They tend to be cheaper than their competitors. Additional 
covers are $29.99.  I have always had positive experiences with this company.

Cheryl Odom
College of Santa Fe
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu Mar 31 17:09:45 2005
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@iimetro.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <20050327005422.50093.qmail@web81403.mail.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Computer Help--slightly OT
Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2005 14:49:10 +1000
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my graphics program, MGI photosuite makes a 'photo album' for me all I have
to do is select the files I want to put in and it automatically creates a
thumbnail version of the picture and when you double click on it you can see
the full sized image, I use it to keep virtually all of my pictures in
order, I have an album for each era I'm interested in and have a lot of
pictures for, (so, one Tudor, one Elizabethan, one Regency and one
Victorian) there are also pre-set fields to enter the information e.g.
title, date, artist, location (which I use to note the website I found it
on) notes (I don't use this often but occasionally I'll put in thngs like
allegorical, or an explanation of the symbolism). It may not be everything
you want but a program like this that is designed to make photo albums
should be a step in the right direction.
Elizabeth


> > Hello all!
> >
> > I would like to solicit some computer help.  I would like to create a
> >
> > spreadsheet, like an excel file, which arranges pictures in
> > chronological order.  The problem I am having with both excel (and
> > just
> > plain word tables) is that neither will allow me to insert a picture
> > into a cell, which means that whenever I insert a new line, I then
> > have
> > to go back and move ALL the pictures.  Anyone have a good idea of
> > what
> > to do? or have I just made a mish-mosh out off my description?
> >
> > Thanks for your time, Jordana
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> >
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: [h-cost] Fw: [Authentic_SCA] a litlle OT: Lessons from Sewing
	(humor)
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this made me giggle so I thought I'd share it around


>
> Forgive me if this is too very off topic, but I thought I'd pass this on
to my sewing/costuming groups to share a giggle or two.
>
> This is what comes from wishing to do bodily harm to a computer program
that refuses to let you update your site how you wish.  Your head rattles,
the marbles collide, sparks fire, and words form. ;-)
>
>
> Lessons I learned from sewing:
> ~
> In an argument between the needle and your finger, the needle
> always wins.
> ~
> When tempted to toss the sewing machine through the
> window, don't. It always gets the last laugh when you take it
> into the shop and pay to replace the glass.
> ~
> When you have a deadline, everything that can go wrong, will
> go wrong. Six times.
> ~
> The seamripper is our friend. Especially when we want to jam
> it into something.
> ~
> Sewing implements make great torture tools. Just ask the
> pitiful fabric scraps huddling in terror in my stash.
> ~
> Our skin is NOT needle/pin/scissor/seamripper proof.
> Contrary to popular belief.
> ~
> Everything in its place and a place for everything.
> Does it count when everything is everywhere?
> ~
> It's not a good project until it looks like the fabric monster
> sneezed in your workroom.
> It's not a great project until it looks like the fabric monster
> sneezed in your house.
> ~
> When in doubt, you might as well start over, because you've
> likely messed up ten times already.
> ~
> Coffee is our friend. However, coffee and fabric are NOT.
> ~
> If you can eat it and make a mess, you're bound to crave it
> while working on something.
> ~
> Sewing + sleepy = Frankenstein's Monster
> ~
> I am a grouch in the morning. I am a grouch when working.
> Enter the workroom in the morning at your own peril.
> Enter the workroom...ever... at your own peril.
> ~
> If you drop a needle, you will find it. With your foot.
> ~
> Say it with me. The iron is hot...
> ~
> When using a water soluble pen on fabric, it's a halfway smart
> idea not to use the steam setting on the iron afterward...
> ~
> Creativity is a two edged sword. You know, the kind you can
> wedge between two rocks and fall on?
> ~
> Your dummy is NOT an oversized voodoo doll.
> Although...
> ~
> Repetition is a good thing.
> ~
> Repetition is... Who am I kidding?
> Repetition is for the birds.
> ~
> There's always room for error.
> The trick is leaving room to get it right.
> ~
> When you can't do nuthin right, don't do nuthin at all.
> Take a break!
> ~
> It's always best to take time to smell the roses.
> Doing so while in a straight jacket is ever so much better.
> ~
> Relax, have fun. You wouldn't be doing this unless you
> wanted to. Right? Right!?!
> ~
> Never stop learning and always be able to laugh at your
> mistakes.
> Everyone else is...
>
>
>
> http://www.rivendelldesigns.net
> Normal is what you think everyone else is!
> Genius does what is must, and talent does what it can.
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
>  Yahoo! Mail - You care about security. So do we.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor --------------------~-->
> What would our lives be like without music, dance, and theater?
> Donate or volunteer in the arts today at Network for Good!
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> --------------------------------------------------------------------~->
>
> ----------------------------------------------------
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>
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>
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>
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>

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Bleach experiment, Elizabethan smock
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Maybe your bleach didn't work anymore because it had evaporated? I've heard you're supposed to leave tapwater sit for a while before you give it to plants to let the chlorine evaporate out. Bleach and chlorine are basically the same thing, aren't they? 
 
Judy -- I believe there is a note somewhere on Drea's site that the smock generator can produce some weird results for those of us with more ::ahem:: womanly proportions. I made one myself last year for Halloween, and as I recall I had to alter the pattern a bit to make it approach the proper proportions.
 
--Tea Rose
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> Maybe your bleach didn't work anymore because it had evaporated?

My thought exactly. The first time I tried a bleach test, I forgot to put 
the lid back on the jar, and the fabric wouldn't dissolve. I decided to try 
again with fresh bleach, and behold! It worked! It must evaporate pretty 
quickly too because it had almost no effect in the first test. 
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Subject: [h-cost] What is the history of denim weave?
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Fashion fabrics club has some interesting wool denim blends.  I know 
they are not considered "period" (1400-1650).  But what exactly is denim 
weave?  Just curious if it was something that was achievable during the 
time and they didn't have it, or???

Thanks for you all who are more versed in textile stuff than I.

Sg
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Bleach experiment, Elizabethan smock
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On Thu, 31 Mar 2005, Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:

> > Maybe your bleach didn't work anymore because it had evaporated?
> 
> My thought exactly. The first time I tried a bleach test, I forgot to put 
> the lid back on the jar, and the fabric wouldn't dissolve. I decided to try 
> again with fresh bleach, and behold! It worked! It must evaporate pretty 
> quickly too because it had almost no effect in the first test. 

Or maybe old bleach? I don't usually cover my test cups. I usually leave
the swatch in for 4-12 hours. Some wools (particularly if they're loosely
spun and woven) dissolve in just a few hours, but if it hasn't dissolved
by the next morning I figure it's not an animal product.

When I do a test at the fabric store where I work occasionally, I do cover
the jar to avoid risk of spillage. (I use a baby-food jar.)  I have once
in a while forgotten to come back to check the jar, and find it the next
time I pull a shift, which might be weeks later.  Sometimes the swatches
still look brand new; sometimes they curl up and go rock-hard. Might be
some finishing treatment involved in the latter.

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] butterick 4484, corset patter
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: <saka@toysmakeuspowerful.com>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Friday, April 01, 2005 3:22 AM
Subject: [h-cost] butterick 4484, corset patter


> Has anyone made Butterick's B4484?  It has a corset, pannier, and
> some other 18th century type underwear.  What are people's opinion's on
> the corset and panniers?
>
> I just joined the list, so if this was already discussed, I apologize.  I
> am still learning how to search the archive.
>
> Kate

I'm half way through making the corset (as contained in B4254 as the new
version with the panniers has only just been released and won't reach
Australia for another season or two) I think their suggestions for boning
are insuficcient so when I was transfering the markings for the boning
channels I just put in one line to get the right angle and I sewed a lot of
paralel lines the width of the presser-foot to fill in any gaps between
their boning channels. I'm using cable ties which are roughly the same
strength as the rigilene boning you buy at the fabric shop but much cheaper.
I've also put in a stiff busk (not the 19th century front opening type but a
heavy peice of spring steel, the bottom picture here
http://www.farthingales.on.ca/spring_steel_bones.php) from my last corset to
give it a firm base. If you don't have a firm busk or you opt for the front
lacing version I would suggest buying spring steel for at least some of the
bones (especially the ones down the centre front), you could buy a
continuous length of spring steel and cut it to length but I personally
value my comfort (I once cut up spring steel for a hoopskirt and my hands
were very sore after half an hour wrestling with the tin snips) over paying
extra for pre-cut lengths. also note that the measurements printed on the
back of the envelope are completely wrong, according to the printed
measurements I should need a size 20-22 I bought the size 16 and it laces
completely closed.
HTH
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole@iimetro.com.au

Mr. Speaker, I said the honourable member was a liar it is true and I am
sorry for it. The honourable member may place the punctuation where he
pleases.
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apologise for calling a fellow MP a liar. Attrib.



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Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2005 13:26:11 -0800
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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Use of "Reenactor"--slightly OT
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That's the trouble, of course -- so many people use it to mean 
completely different things.

If, for instance, your concept of a "re-enactor" is "a snobbish and 
overly picky person who obsesses about the spin direction and fiber 
length of the linen thread used to stitch seams no one will ever 
see", then obviously you're probably going to consider it 
unflattering <g>.

Or if your concept of a re-enactor is "someone who attempts to 
re-stage specific historical events exactly as they occurred," then 
it's a fairly neutral term, but may not correctly describe your 
interest in, say, the songs of the Troubadors or the cut of 
13th-century tunics.

I personally tend to use it to mean "someone who researches and tries 
to create or demonstrate historically accurate things, skills, and 
understandings, often integrated into a period persona." So, since 
that's what I'm trying to do, if someone calls me a re-enactor, I 
consider it a compliment.

I also use it to describe myself at times, to indicate that what I'm 
interested in doing is history, rather than, for instance, 
knights-and-wenches fantasy, Highland Games, silly takeoffs on 
history, or martial arts, all of which may be perfectly legitimate 
and enjoyable things for other people to do but are not the same as 
what _I'm_ doing. (Of course, to some extent, the more you know about 
history, the funnier the take-offs are <g>!)
-- 
____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>  -   Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] butterick 4484, corset pattern
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At 11:22 31/03/2005 -0600, you wrote:
>Has anyone made Butterick's B4484?  It has a corset, pannier, and
>some other 18th century type underwear.  What are people's opinion's on
>the corset and panniers?
>
>I just joined the list, so if this was already discussed, I apologize.  I
>am still learning how to search the archive.


How authentic do you want to be? There are many other sources, from books 
with grid patterns, to paper patterns out there. In my opinion, virtually 
all these will be better than patterns from the Big 3.
Try "Fitting and Proper" "Costume Close-up" and "Period Costume for Stage 
and Screen 1500-1800". These all have grid patterns taken from original 
garments. There is also a Patten Review, which covers many of the patterns 
I am referring to. I don't have the site address, but I am sure someone 
else can post it for you.

Suzi (who uses "Period Costume" but has just got the first two books 
mentioned, and is going to start in on those any day now!)


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dress Form Help
Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2005 16:46:21 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Yes, they're sold at Jo-ann's.

On Mar 31, 2005, at 11:22 AM, Carmen Beaudry wrote:

> Subject: [h-cost] Dress Form Help
>
>
>> Hello,
>> I am looking to get an Adjustable DressForm; but I am unsure about
>> which one is best and easiest to work with - can anyone provide some
>> advice, opinions and/or help?
>>
>> Thanks!
>> Wendi
>
> Mine is a second hand "My Double" dress form.  It's made of 
> compressable high density foam, with a removable cloth cover that can 
> be customized to fit you exactly.  It also has extra covers so that 
> you can use it for more than one person, as long as they're remotely 
> the same size (I'm a size 16/18, I can adjust it down to about a 12, 
> but not as far as my size 3 daughter).  I have no idea if they're 
> still being sold, I got mine second hand about 20 years ago.
>
> Melusine
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Subject: [h-cost] Elizabethan smocks
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Re. the Italian smock T.770-1919 in the V&A (which I
don't think is photographed anywhere, but would be
happy to be corrected!).

I've seen this in person and have made a reproduction,
with body embroidery in progress. I described the
project on my website at

http://www.lucente-stella.moonfruit.com 

but this is a FLASH site.  If you don't like/want
Flash, I would suggest you visit the site of Bella
Lucia (long link ahead)
http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/wardrobe/extcam3.htm
- it is the third extant camicia in her list. We have
corresponded and her diagram for reconstructing it has
now been amended following the measurements and notes
I made on my first visit. I will be taking more
photographs on a second visit in June and hope to have
a non-flash page up shortly after. I'll let you all
know when that happens.

If you have any questions about the construction or
sizes, please feel free to ask.
HTH,

Katherine/Susan


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Thanks all for responding...I never saw my original show up....grrrr. 
The blends are with cottton,  viscose and one with lycra! Ykes!
I also have some pure linen ones from Linen house-they are beutiful, but 
EXPENSIVE!

I've been waiting to buy some when I loose the weight I want as a 
present to myself, but that hasn't happened yet!


Sg

Joan Jurancich wrote:

> Denim is a simple 2-2 twill weave.  This twill weave has been used for 
> thousands of years in wool.  What is the "wool denim" blend?  Is it a 
> mixture of cotton and wool?  If it is, then the blend is modern, but 
> the weave is ancient.
> Joan Jurancich
> spinner, weaver, textile history fanatic <g>
>
> At 12:24 PM 3/31/2005 -0600, you wrote:
>
>> Denim is a twill weave, which was done in peroid.  I don't remember the
>> specifics of how denim is constructed, but since other twills were 
>> produced,
>> it's probably passable depending on how accurate you want to be about
>> such things.
>>
>> Kate
>>
>> > Message: 11
>> > Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2005 08:40:51 -0700
>> > From: Wicked Frau <wickedfrau@earthlink.net>
>> > Subject: [h-cost] What is the history of denim weave?
>> > To: "h-costume@indra.com" <h-costume@indra.com>
>> > Message-ID: <424C1A03.8080509@earthlink.net>
>> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>> >
>> > Fashion fabrics club has some interesting wool denim blends.  I know
>> > they are not considered "period" (1400-1650).  But what exactly is 
>> denim
>> > weave?  Just curious if it was something that was achievable during 
>> the
>> > time and they didn't have it, or???
>> >
>> > Thanks for you all who are more versed in textile stuff than I.
>> >
>> > Sg
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> _______________________________________________
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tearoses@aol.com wrote:
> Judy -- I believe there is a note somewhere on Drea's site that the smock generator can produce some weird results for those of us with more ::ahem:: womanly proportions. I made one myself last year for Halloween, and as I recall I had to alter the pattern a bit to make it approach the proper proportions.

	Well, yeah I definately fit in the 'more... womanly proportioned' 
arena. Ok, sounds like I should take it in a bit. Actually I think I 
overestimated the width on the body panel - apparently the change was 
only about 4".. but doubled for front and back is still a lot, and I 
know the gores moved from my comfortable 7.5" half gores to 12" half 
gores, and that's a huge change in the hemline.

	I just couldn't understand why, if one wears stays on top of the smock, 
one would want a lot of extra fabric getting bunched in there.


	Thanks all! I can probably cut my linen tomorrow.

	-Judy Mitchell
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Denim is a simple 2-2 twill weave. This twill weave has been used for 
thousands of years in wool. What is the "wool denim" blend? Is it a mixture 
of cotton and wool? If it is, then the fiber blend is modern, but the weave 
is ancient.
Joan Jurancich
spinner, weaver, textile history fanatic <g>

At 08:40 AM 3/31/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>Fashion fabrics club has some interesting wool denim blends.  I know they 
>are not considered "period" (1400-1650).  But what exactly is denim 
>weave?  Just curious if it was something that was achievable during the 
>time and they didn't have it, or???
>
>Thanks for you all who are more versed in textile stuff than I.
>
>Sg

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