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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Use of fur on sideless gowns
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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> I will have fun making this gown...
>
> Becky

Becky,

One word of advice....

...don't use red velveteen.  Once, many years ago, I made a tunic out of
red velveteen with bell sleeves lined in white rabbit fur.  I also put
rabbit fur around the neck.  It quickly earned me the nickname "Mrs.
Claus" and I couldn't bear to wear it any more!!

Wish I had a picture to share because now I think that it is *too* funny!

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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Date: Sun, 1 May 2005 11:49:19 +0100 (BST)
From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Trim - prefabricated braid frogging - help?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:At 23:00 30/04/2005 +0100, you wrote:
>Suugestions for suppliers of "prefabricated braid frogging closures" would 
>be very welcome.

SNIP
Kleins - haberdashery and craft supplies
Barnett Lawson - huge range of braids, ribbons, buttons, feathers and trimmings
Little Trimmings - small scale trimmings and lace, and a very helpful lady

All the above have links on my web pages together with other suppliers of 
fabrics etc. Kleins and Barnett Lawson would be my first choices - Little 
Trimmings is probably more suitable for toys and dolls.

REPLY
Yes, that's exactly what I'm looking-for,  - TYVM for your prompt response, and the Links therein.






Yours in service, 
Julian Wilson,
[aka. Messire Matthew Baker/Matthieu Besquer, Governor & Castellan of Jersey, 1486-1497: - "Si vis pacem, para bellum"]
late-medieval Re-enactor; & Historian and Master Artisan to  
"The Companie of the Duke's Leopards",
[the only medieval living-history Group
in "olde" Jersey]
Send instant messages to your online friends http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com 
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Date: Sun, 1 May 2005 10:09:25 -0500
Subject: Re: [h-cost] removing grease on clothes
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> I would have thought that removing the kind of auto-lubricating 
> grease mentioned by a previous Lister, - would require lots of 
> highly-distilled denatured alcohol, or a very-refined White Spirit 
> or lots of Carbon Tetrachloride; - basically because - as I see that 
> problem, - the only remedy is to keep-on "flushing" the grease 
> stain,-  and blotting-up the emulsified/disolved grease must 
> continue until the cleansing agent is coming-away clean.
> Maybe a Lister who has had experience in the "Dry Cleaning" Trade 
> could add some comment?  

I know perchloroethelene (aka "perk", and I'm not guaranteeing the
spelling from memory) is used both as a dry cleaning solvent and as an
industrial de-greaser.  However, at least in the US, you won't be able to
buy some for home use.  Government regulations, you know -- breathing in
too much of the fumes will make you sick, and based on one animal test
that AFAIK no one else has been able to reproduce it's on the "possible
carcinogen" list.  Besides, it's expensive.  I've never worked anywhere
that used petroleum solvent or the new liquid CO2 method; if the news
articles on CO2 are accurate there's no way you're doing _that_ at home
due to the high pressures needed to keep it liquid.  I don't know if you
could get some petroleum solvent to take home or not.

I never did a lot of the dry cleaning, and now that I've been transferred
to one of the drop-off locations I'm not doing any.  Based on memory, I
don't recall the plant manager having to do much pre-spotting on grease
stains.  The solvent and tumbling in the drum (think oversized
front-loader washer) did the work for her.

I know among the chemicals on the spotting board were some that would
take out any remaining grease stains.  When using those, we used a steam
gun connected to the boiler to flush the stain, and the board had a
vacuum to suck the steam/chemicals/crud away.  At home, I'd think
spot-treating, flushing with water, and blotting with a towel, repeated
as needed, should work.

Leah
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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT:  Funny Cats
Date: Sun, 01 May 2005 16:16:28 +0000
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Thanks for a great laugh, first thing in the morning!

*almost* as good as coffee first thing...

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> This is off topic but I know a lot of you have cats... so you will love this! 
> 
> http://www.themooseisloose.net/funny_cats.html 
> (have you volume on when watching) 
> 
> 
> Penny Ladnier, owner 
> The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com 
> Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com 
> Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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From: "Becky @ SewingCity.com" <becky@sewingcity.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Use of fur on sideless gowns
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One word of advice....

...don't use red velveteen.  

Actually, both the undergown and the sideless gown will be linen.  I plan on
lining the sideless so it moves nicely over the undergown.  

As for making one from velveteen... I wonder what fabrics would have been
documentable for a sideless? 

Becky
------------
http://www.sewingcity.com


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Date: Mon, 02 May 2005 10:23:48 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Use of fur on sideless gowns
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Becky @ SewingCity.com wrote:

>One word of advice....
>
>...don't use red velveteen.  
>
>Actually, both the undergown and the sideless gown will be linen.  I plan on
>lining the sideless so it moves nicely over the undergown.  
>
>As for making one from velveteen... I wonder what fabrics would have been
>documentable for a sideless? 
>  
>

Broadly, wools and silks.

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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Subject: [h-cost] Melbourne Fashion Week
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At the opening event of Melbourne International Fashion Week, the big fashion event in Australia, a group of anti-fur protesters staged a demonstration out the front. They were not halted by the fact that no fur was being displayed inside,

-C (who eats the insides and wears the outsides).
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Got a message from Barnes & Noble last night that they had cancelled my 
order because the book was unavailable :-(.


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Subject: [h-cost] Bummer! MC&T Order
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Bummer!  I just email from Barnes & Noble:

Despite our efforts, we were unable to fulfill some or all of the items

in your order, as noted below.  We have canceled this portion of your 
order.

We are sorry we were unable to complete your order and apologize for 
any inconvenience this has caused.

We hope you will return to http://www.bn.com at a later date to see if

this merchandise is back in stock.

Sincerely,

-- Barnes & Noble.com


The only item I had on this order was MC&T.  When I saw the email in my
inbox I had hoped it was to tell me this had shipped so this is a real
bummer.  Has anyone gotten this from B&N?

Thanks,
Catherine


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So did I...  I'm debating ordering it from Amazon... but I recall they had 
a MUCH higher price on it...  ; <   grrr.   Bridgette / Mari

>Got a message from Barnes & Noble last night that they had cancelled my 
>order because the book was unavailable :-(.

Mari Stewart
Webmaster
College of Veterinary Medicine
Cornell University


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Me too.  I wish I knew why???  Not enough orders to finalize a shipment?  I am so bummed, but I'll be ordering it from Boydell & Brewer: http://www.boydell.co.uk/43831236.HTM
 
RATS!!!
Chris G.

Catherine Kinsey <ckinsey@kumc.edu> wrote:
Bummer! I just email from Barnes & Noble:

Despite our efforts, we were unable to fulfill some or all of the items

in your order, as noted below. We have canceled this portion of your 
order.

We are sorry we were unable to complete your order and apologize for 
any inconvenience this has caused.

We hope you will return to http://www.bn.com at a later date to see if

this merchandise is back in stock.

Sincerely,

-- Barnes & Noble.com


The only item I had on this order was MC&T. When I saw the email in my
inbox I had hoped it was to tell me this had shipped so this is a real
bummer. Has anyone gotten this from B&N?

Thanks,
Catherine


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My contact at Boydell has no idea why B&N would be listing the book as
unavailable, as it most definitely is available. The first shipment
arrived in the US on April 21, and most of that has been sold; more are on
the way. B&N typically goes through a wholesaler that should also be
receiving them around now, if they haven't already. And that's all she
knows, and thus all I know.

--Robin


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From: Onaree Berard <msberard@gmail.com>
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I can confirm that, I've recieved my copy already and I ordered
directly from Boydell when it was first announced.

I really enjoyed it. I wasn't sure if I would since I've never read an
academic journal as opposed to something geared towards the mass
market.

I'm looking forward to hearing other people's views (now I know why I
haven't heard anything till now).

Let us know when the next is available for preorder, Robin, I'm
looking forward to it.

Onaree

On 5/2/05, Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:
> 
> My contact at Boydell has no idea why B&N would be listing the book as
> unavailable, as it most definitely is available. The first shipment
> arrived in the US on April 21, and most of that has been sold; more are on
> the way. B&N typically goes through a wholesaler that should also be
> receiving them around now, if they haven't already. And that's all she
> knows, and thus all I know.
> 
> --Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] B&N and MC&T
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Thanks Robin, but I'll just order through Boydell as I don't want to wait.  I HOPE B&N isn't going the route that Amazon is...
 
Chris G.

Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> wrote:

My contact at Boydell has no idea why B&N would be listing the book as
unavailable, as it most definitely is available. The first shipment
arrived in the US on April 21, and most of that has been sold; more are on
the way. B&N typically goes through a wholesaler that should also be
receiving them around now, if they haven't already. And that's all she
knows, and thus all I know.

--Robin


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Date: Mon, 2 May 2005 13:31:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Angharad ver' Reynulf" <dragonwolfcat@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bummer! MC&T Order
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I also got burned by this email from Barnes & Noble. 
Very, Very Frustrating.

So I've gone somewhere else to order it, but am
frustrated at the time that has been wasted and the
cost differential now included.

*sigh*


Jonnalyhn/ Angharat

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On Mon, 2 May 2005, Angharad ver' Reynulf wrote:

> So I've gone somewhere else to order it, but am frustrated at the time
> that has been wasted and the cost differential now included.

To those of you that were burned in this way (and boy, am I annoyed),
please remember this post I made a few weeks ago:

Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2005 23:33:59 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: MC&T journal? was: untitled post

<snip>

For those who haven't bought yet, today I received a batch of flyers that
I may distribute to my colleagues -- and they include a discount code that
brings the price down to $37.50. That's not as good as the Barnes & Noble
price, last I looked. But if you want that discount, please e-mail me
directly. I consider the members of this list my colleagues, and am happy
to offer you the deal.

However, please do *not* forward the above paragraph elsewhere, as I
cannot claim that the members of several dozen costume lists are my
colleagues ;-)

<snip>


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To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Sun, 1 May 2005 10:00:12 -0500
Subject: Re: [h-cost] removing grease on clothes
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> I would have thought that removing the kind of auto-lubricating 
> grease mentioned by a previous Lister, - would require lots of 
> highly-distilled denatured alcohol, or a very-refined White Spirit 
> or lots of Carbon Tetrachloride; - basically because - as I see that 
> problem, - the only remedy is to keep-on "flushing" the grease 
> stain,-  and blotting-up the emulsified/disolved grease must 
> continue until the cleansing agent is coming-away clean.
> Maybe a Lister who has had experience in the "Dry Cleaning" Trade 
> could add some comment?  

I know perchloroethelene (aka "perk", and I'm not guaranteeing the
spelling from memory) is used both as a dry cleaning solvent and as an
industrial de-greaser.  However, at least in the US, you won't be able to
buy some for home use.  Government regulations, you know -- breathing in
too much of the fumes will make you sick, and based on one animal test
that AFAIK no one else has been able to reproduce it's on the "possible
carcinogen" list.  Besides, it's expensive.  I've never worked anywhere
that used petroleum solvent or the new liquid CO2 method; if the news
articles on CO2 are accurate there's no way you're doing _that_ at home
due to the high pressures needed to keep it liquid.  I don't know if you
could get some petroleum solvent to take home or not.

I never did a lot of the dry cleaning, and now that I've been transferred
to one of the drop-off locations I'm not doing any.  Based on memory, I
don't recall the plant manager having to do much pre-spotting on grease
stains.  The solvent and tumbling in the drum (think oversized
front-loader washer) did the work for her.

I know among the chemicals on the spotting board were some that would
take out any remaining grease stains.  When using those, we used a steam
gun connected to the boiler to flush the stain, and the board had a
vacuum to suck the steam/chemicals/crud away.  At home, I'd think
spot-treating, flushing with water, and blotting with a towel, repeated
as needed, should work.

Leah
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Date: Mon, 2 May 2005 09:13:58 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Melbourne Fashion Week
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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OH! Were there any new glove fashions shown? Are there any pictures
of them anywhere?

I have noticed lately that they are reincorporating gloves with
outragious designs in the last year. Let us know! :)

Chiara

> At the opening event of Melbourne International Fashion Week, the
> big fashion event in Australia, a group of anti-fur protesters
> staged a demonstration out the front. They were not halted by the
> fact that no fur was being displayed inside,
>
> -C (who eats the insides and wears the outsides).
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Subject: [h-cost] Ribs-Thanks
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Thanks for all the input about the rib removal myth.  Hopefully I will
be able to add some more solid information to it.

Catherine
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On Mon, 2 May 2005, lisa wrote:

> Got a message from Barnes & Noble last night that they had cancelled
> my order because the book was unavailable :-(.

Which is really, really weird, because my contact at Boydell informed me
that they arrived at the US warehouse last week. I wonder if B&N has some
sort of set time period on pre-orders at which they declare something
"unavailable."

I will ask my contact whether they can do anything about this. I know a
lot of people ordered through B&N.

--Robin

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bummer! MC&T Order
Date: Mon, 2 May 2005 14:50:56 -0400
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Received mine from Boydell & Brewer late last week.

Barb (who hasn't had much to say up till now...)


On May 2, 2005, at 2:32 PM, Chris wrote:

> Me too.  I wish I knew why???  Not enough orders to finalize a 
> shipment?  I am so bummed, but I'll be ordering it from Boydell & 
> Brewer: http://www.boydell.co.uk/43831236.HTM
>
> RATS!!!
> Chris G.

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Thank you so much for sharing.  The sewing techniques and linen tape  you 
describe sound very, very similar to those utilized in an extant  white linen 
apron I own that has been dated pre-1800 so it is entirely  possible the cap is 
earlier that 1840.  If you can put up some images, we  would love to see.
 
Best regards,
Susannah
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Subject: [h-cost] Job opportunity at the Met
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     This was on a museum list - Looks like fun and maybe it fits the
skills of an h-costume listmember!     -Carol


Once again, the Metropolitan Museum of Art has a fantastic opportunity to
share with your members.  Please forward this opportunity to any
interested parties or post accordingly.  Contact us if you have any
questions or concerns.

Sincerely,


Employment Generalist
The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Human Resources


PRODUCTION ASSOCIATE

The Metropolitan Museum of Art, one of the world's finest museums, seeks a
Merchandise Production Associate in the Textile Reproductions Department. 
The Production Associate is responsible for supporting the department
Manager in all administrative aspects of the product development process
including managing the day-to-day communication and coordination with
other departments and follow-up on development progress with vendors,
researching the Met collections for appropriate images for use in
merchandise development, and maintaining a database of new product
development.

Successful candidates will have 3-5 years experience in a similar field. 
Strong administrative and computer skills required, including MS Excel,
Word, Outlook, Photoshop. Color expertise and interest in fashion
preferred.  College degree required.
Design training or experience and knowledge of art history preferred. 
Please send cover letter, resume, and salary history to
employoppty@metmuseum.org as a Word attachment only with the position
title in the subject line, or fax to 212-570-3882.


The Metropolitan Museum of Art
1000 Fifth Avenue
New York, NY 10028-0198
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: B&N and MC&T
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On Mon, 2 May 2005, Onaree Berard wrote:

> I really enjoyed it. I wasn't sure if I would since I've never read an
> academic journal as opposed to something geared towards the mass
> market.

That does my heart good! Thank you for the feedback!

> Let us know when the next is available for preorder, Robin, I'm
> looking forward to it.

I'll keep the list posted. I can tell you the topics it will cover (I'm
winding up the editing process this month):

 - Dress and accessories in an early Irish story (with comparisons to
surviving artifacts)

 - Textual inscriptions in the Bayeux Tapestry

 - References to clothmaking in 12th-c. French romances

 - Paris's role in the 13th- and 14th-c. textile markets

 - Attitudes about apparel and impoverishment in medieval and Early Modern
England

 - Textile cleaning techniques in Renaissance Europe (this is by Drea
Leed, whom many people here know)

 - Zibellini (commonly known as "flea furs")

 - The English embroidered jacket (that one is by Danielle Nunn-Weinberg,
also a listmember)


Just wanted to whet your appetite ;-)

--Robin

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Subject: [h-cost] fabric stores & etc in WY, MT, ID
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The husband and I are planning a nice rambling trip all over Wyoming, 
Montana, and Idaho (and driving through NW Missouri and Nebraska to get 
there).  We might dip into Washington briefly, but we wouldn't be going far 
enough west to hit the Pendleton outlets.  Are there any other fabric stores 
in that part of the country that are worth visiting?  I'm particularly in 
the market for wool, linen, or silk damasks and brocades, but I certainly 
wouldn't pass up nicely priced basics such as tropical weight worsteds or 
gobs of linens.

(We HAD been planning to go to the northeast instead of the northwest, and I 
was going to spend several hours in the general vicinity of Jomar and all 
the other nice fabric stores around there, but oh well!  Maybe next year.)

Also, is there anything around there this summer that a clothing & art 
museums person might not want to miss?

-E House 

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I ordered my copy of MC&T through B&N, and a day before the expected 
shipping date (a couple of weeks ago), they notified me that their stock 
had run out, and it could be up to a month longer before I got mine. 
Which is a bummer, as I've been waiting a while now.  Maybe the demand 
just exceeded their original expectations?
--Sue, who supposes she can console herself with the Anglo-Saxon 
clothing book, or with _Woven into the Earth_ :o)

Robin Netherton wrote:
> My contact at Boydell has no idea why B&N would be listing the book as
> unavailable, as it most definitely is available. The first shipment
> arrived in the US on April 21, and most of that has been sold; more are on
> the way. B&N typically goes through a wholesaler that should also be
> receiving them around now, if they haven't already. And that's all she
> knows, and thus all I know.
> 
> --Robin

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Actual fabric stores in the state of MT? Surely you jest? <g>
There are some interesting fiber places scattered in the state, but 
truly, the only fabric stores I've seen in this state in the last 10 
years have been JoAnn's, and there are two Hancock's.  And your random 
assortment of quilt-fabric shops.  But not much at all for 
garment/apparel.  For that, I generally go out of state or order online.
We have lots of other nice touristy things in the state, though.  What 
part of it are you cutting through?
--Sue (in the middle/NW area of Montana)

E House wrote:

> The husband and I are planning a nice rambling trip all over Wyoming, 
> Montana, and Idaho (and driving through NW Missouri and Nebraska to get 
> there).  We might dip into Washington briefly, but we wouldn't be going 
> far enough west to hit the Pendleton outlets.  Are there any other 
> fabric stores in that part of the country that are worth visiting?  I'm 
> particularly in the market for wool, linen, or silk damasks and 
> brocades, but I certainly wouldn't pass up nicely priced basics such as 
> tropical weight worsteds or gobs of linens.


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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bummer! MC&T Order
Date: Mon, 2 May 2005 20:58:13 -0400
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On Monday 02 May 2005 2:23 pm, Catherine Kinsey wrote:
> Bummer!  I just email from Barnes & Noble:
>
> Despite our efforts, we were unable to fulfill some or all of the items
>
> in your order, as noted below.  We have canceled this portion of your
> order.
>
> We are sorry we were unable to complete your order and apologize for
> any inconvenience this has caused.
[snip]

>
> The only item I had on this order was MC&T.  When I saw the email in my
> inbox I had hoped it was to tell me this had shipped so this is a real
> bummer.  Has anyone gotten this from B&N?
>

No, but B&N didn't cancel my order either.  It gave me the option to wait 
another 30 days for MC&T (until May 31, 2005).  


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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From: Lady Satine <seamuslady@yahoo.com>
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I was trying to order this book for a friend of mine  as a birthday gift and I have not been able to place any orders with B&N for over 2 weeks now.. What is going on with them???? I go on the site and all teh books i hvae marked at teh begining of last month say they are unavailable to order????? this is really strage.. 
 
Satine

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon May  2 21:32:09 2005
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Date: Mon, 02 May 2005 18:31:05 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] fabric stores & etc in WY, MT, ID
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Well, there's Reproduction Fabrics (Fabrics of time periods 1775-1970, as 
well as indigo-dyed prints) in Bozeman, MT.  Here's some information from 
their web site:

We are located in the beautiful Gallatin Valley surrounded by four mountain 
ranges. Our outlet store is in downtown Bozeman, Montana USA.
Come Visit!!
Just north of Yellowstone National Park, there is much to do here 
year-round, particularly in the outdoors: visit Yellowstone, hike out 
beautiful mountains, enjoy our world class fishing and big game hunting, 
ski at Big Sky or Bridger Bowl, and ...and, ..AND we are here!

To find us at 25 N. Willson St, Suite A, we are right downtown one block 
off Main Street (hwy 191). Look for the landmark 7-story Baxter Hotel 
Building on the corner of Main & Willson. We are on Willson Street side of 
that block.

Our hours are 9 a.m. - 5 p.m. M-F (MST) and 10-3 on Saturday (but our 
servers work 24 hours a day!).  The telephone number is 800-380-4611.

The web site is http://www.reproductionfabrics.com/ .  If you go to the web 
site you can get a map.

So there is at least one real fabric store in Montana, even if most of 
their business is mail order.

Joan

At 07:02 PM 5/2/2005 -0600, you wrote:
>Actual fabric stores in the state of MT? Surely you jest? <g>
>There are some interesting fiber places scattered in the state, but truly, 
>the only fabric stores I've seen in this state in the last 10 years have 
>been JoAnn's, and there are two Hancock's.  And your random assortment of 
>quilt-fabric shops.  But not much at all for garment/apparel.  For that, I 
>generally go out of state or order online.
>We have lots of other nice touristy things in the state, though.  What 
>part of it are you cutting through?
>--Sue (in the middle/NW area of Montana)
>
>E House wrote:
>
>>The husband and I are planning a nice rambling trip all over Wyoming, 
>>Montana, and Idaho (and driving through NW Missouri and Nebraska to get 
>>there).  We might dip into Washington briefly, but we wouldn't be going 
>>far enough west to hit the Pendleton outlets.  Are there any other fabric 
>>stores in that part of the country that are worth visiting?  I'm 
>>particularly in the market for wool, linen, or silk damasks and brocades, 
>>but I certainly wouldn't pass up nicely priced basics such as tropical 
>>weight worsteds or gobs of linens.
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 288
Date: Mon, 2 May 2005 21:57:47 -0400
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On Monday 02 May 2005 9:26 pm, Lady Satine wrote:
> I was trying to order this book for a friend of mine  as a birthday gift
> and I have not been able to place any orders with B&N for over 2 weeks
> now.. What is going on with them???? I go on the site and all teh books i
> hvae marked at teh begining of last month say they are unavailable to
> order????? this is really strage..

If you mean "Medieval Costume & Textiles, vol. 1," I have no idea what's up 
with B&N; I'm annoyed with them myself; I'm waiting for a copy too.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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Is it me, or has this website gone missing? I keep getting a Network 
Solutions "under construction" ad when I try any links to it:

Elizabethan Costuming Page
http://costume.dm.net/


Dawn


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At 09:48 PM 5/2/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>Is it me, or has this website gone missing? I keep getting a Network 
>Solutions "under construction" ad when I try any links to it:
>
>Elizabethan Costuming Page
>http://costume.dm.net/
>
>
>Dawn

I just went to it.  Seems fine.

Joan

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On Monday 02 May 2005 10:48 pm, Dawn wrote:
> Is it me, or has this website gone missing? I keep getting a Network
> Solutions "under construction" ad when I try any links to it:
>
> Elizabethan Costuming Page
> http://costume.dm.net/
>
It came up just fine for me literally a few seconds ago.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Sheryl Nance-Durst <sherylnd@kc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Elizabethan Pattern:  The Working Woman's Wardrobe
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Hey Margo,

I just looked through my new July 2005 Threads magazine...
Congrats on being featured!

Sheryl N-D


At 04:07 PM 4/30/05 -0700, you wrote:
>Hi, everyone!
>
>I'm happy to announce the release of yet another historically accurate,
>highly detailed
>Elizabethan Pattern!

<snip for space>

>To see it and order, go to www.margospatterns.com
>
>Thanks!
>
>Margo Anderson



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Ah, you're right.  I'd forgotten about them.  I'm several hours from 
Bozeman, so it's not something I'd think of automatically, but I've got 
a friend who's ordered from them, and they're on my "possibly good 
source for repro. prints" for a quilt I want to make (recreating a 
summer quilt that came from my Mom's family somewhere, and which is 
pieced in a Dresden Plate pattern, using flour-sack prints from the 30s).
Thanks for the info!
--sue

Joan Jurancich wrote:

> Well, there's Reproduction Fabrics (Fabrics of time periods 1775-1970, 
> as well as indigo-dyed prints) in Bozeman, MT.  Here's some information 
> from their web site:
<snipped>

> At 07:02 PM 5/2/2005 -0600, you wrote:
> 
>> Actual fabric stores in the state of MT? Surely you jest? <g>
>> There are some interesting fiber places scattered in the state, but 
>> truly, the only fabric stores I've seen in this state in the last 10 
>> years have been JoAnn's, and there are two Hancock's.  And your random 
>> assortment of quilt-fabric shops.  But not much at all for 
>> garment/apparel.  For that, I generally go out of state or order online.
>> We have lots of other nice touristy things in the state, though.  What 
>> part of it are you cutting through?
>> --Sue (in the middle/NW area of Montana)


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Maybe it's you? Or the time during which you were checking? I just 
tried, using the link in your post, and it popped right up.  But then, I 
did that roughly two hours after your post's time mark, and I'm using 
Netscape (sometimes the browser makes a difference).
--sue

Dawn wrote:

> Is it me, or has this website gone missing? I keep getting a Network 
> Solutions "under construction" ad when I try any links to it:
> 
> Elizabethan Costuming Page
> http://costume.dm.net/
> 
> 
> Dawn


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The only thing I can think of is that B&N discovered they didn't really want to sell at the lower advertised price after all.  Witht the falling dollar, Boydell has been raising prices (and not necessarily advising retailers first.)  The orders to bookstores have been shipped - I got mine last week.  It looks really nice although I haven't had time to sit down and read it.  However, my husband stayed up late the other night reading the article on clothing mentions in Viking sagas!  

I'm glad Boydell was talked into a more reasonable price - their new catalog came today and all their other journals seem to be $90.

Janet
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] B&N and MC&T
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On Tue, 3 May 2005, JAMES OGILVIE wrote:

> The only thing I can think of is that B&N discovered they didn't
> really want to sell at the lower advertised price after all.

That was my thought too. It was an *awfully* good price. I think it may
have been set during the brief period when Boydell had the journal up for
$40 (it was soon changed to $50).

>  Witht the falling dollar, Boydell has been raising prices (and not
> necessarily advising retailers first.)  The orders to bookstores have
> been shipped - I got mine last week.  It looks really nice although I
> haven't had time to sit down and read it.  However, my husband stayed
> up late the other night reading the article on clothing mentions in
> Viking sagas!

Or, more precisely, "What to wear to a slaying." (Answer: Something blue.)

> I'm glad Boydell was talked into a more reasonable price - their new
> catalog came today and all their other journals seem to be $90.

We worked very hard at that. I know $50 seems like a lot, but compared to
what Boydell was originally planning, it's a huge difference.

--Robin

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Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 01:10:55 -0700
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] missing web site
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>>Is it me, or has this website gone missing? I keep getting a 
>>Network Solutions "under construction" ad when I try any links to 
>>it:
>>
>>Elizabethan Costuming Page
>>http://costume.dm.net/

If your browser caches copies of pages, you may have only hit an 
"under construction" version of the page once, but your browser keeps 
feeding you that copy from cache, rather than downloading a new copy. 
Even hitting the "refresh" button won't necessarily get around this. 
See if you can find a command in your browser to clear your cache 
folder (or delete the contents of your cache, or various other ways 
of phrasing it).  Then try the page again.

No guarantees that this will work in your particular case, but it's 
worked for me when I've had similar problems.

Heather
-- 
--
Heather Rose Jones
heather.jones@earthlink.net
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Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 06:26:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris <emeraldepona@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] missing web site
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Hi Heather,
 
I'm at work (much better connection than my old dial-up at home) and the page opened right up for me.
 
Chris G.

Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net> wrote:
>>Is it me, or has this website gone missing? I keep getting a 
>>Network Solutions "under construction" ad when I try any links to 
>>it:
>>
>>Elizabethan Costuming Page
>>http://costume.dm.net/

If your browser caches copies of pages, you may have only hit an 
"under construction" version of the page once, but your browser keeps 
feeding you that copy from cache, rather than downloading a new copy. 
Even hitting the "refresh" button won't necessarily get around this. 
See if you can find a command in your browser to clear your cache 
folder (or delete the contents of your cache, or various other ways 
of phrasing it). Then try the page again.

No guarantees that this will work in your particular case, but it's 
worked for me when I've had similar problems.

Heather
-- 
--
Heather Rose Jones
heather.jones@earthlink.net
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Finally found a phone number on the website for customer service.  Per
the poor guy who was lucky enough to get my call; when they have to
delay shipping for a second time on an item, they cancel the order. 
Period.

I pointed out to him that we were given the option to continue or
cancel when there was the first delay and doing this the second time,
when the book was so close to arriving, and is still listed on their
website (altho without a price) looks like they are trying to now renig
on the discount the offered for advance orders.  

I was polite, but he knew I was not happy :).  I suggested he might
want to let their customer service know that they had several unhappy
customers over this and this policy should be reviewed.  Some books are
worth waiting for :).

Catherine
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Sue Clemenger wrote:

> Maybe it's you? Or the time during which you were checking? I just 
> tried, using the link in your post, and it popped right up.  But then, I 
> did that roughly two hours after your post's time mark, and I'm using 
> Netscape (sometimes the browser makes a difference).
> --sue

Thanks everyone who checked. I've been seeing that particular error page 
a lot lately, from various sites *I KNOW* are there , and it's not until 
I ask someone else on a different connection to check it too that I'm 
able to finally view it. We just changed DNS providers and I think 
something with our service is hinky. Now if I could get my husband to 
believe me...



Dawn


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Called B&N
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In our experience as a publisher, Barnes and Noble listings have little 
to do with book availability. They've listed books as available a month 
before we got them from the printer, they've waited over a month to list 
them after we have informed them the book is available. It's just the 
way they work.

Fran
Lavolta Presss Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Catherine Kinsey wrote:

>Finally found a phone number on the website for customer service.  Per
>the poor guy who was lucky enough to get my call; when they have to
>delay shipping for a second time on an item, they cancel the order. 
>
>  
>
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Subject: [h-cost] sequence of events for sewing jacket together
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I am making a sailors short jacket circa 1706.  it's a linen lined heavy
wool jacket.  I have cut out and sewn together the body and the sleeves so I
basically have "two" jackets, a linen one and a wool one that I need to sew
together.

 

What should I do first?  

Linen to wool sleeve then attach to body then sew the body linen lining into
the wool jacket

Or

Sew linen lining sleves to linen body, sew wool sleeves to wool body, then
linen jacket into wool jacket?

 

Or something else?

 

Thanks in advance

 

Greg 

 

www.gentlemenoffortune.com

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sequence of events for sewing jacket together
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At 14:02 04/05/2005 +0200, you wrote:
>I am making a sailors short jacket circa 1706.  it's a linen lined heavy
>wool jacket.  I have cut out and sewn together the body and the sleeves so I
>basically have "two" jackets, a linen one and a wool one that I need to sew
>together.
>
>
>
>What should I do first?
>
>Linen to wool sleeve then attach to body then sew the body linen lining into
>the wool jacket


That is the way I make jackets and coats - I don't know if it is the right 
way. Look at your ribbed silk coat that I made you - you will see the 
armholes are hand sewn.

Suzi


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Nope, no gloves visible unless they are in the raggy handbags...still, most
of this has been daywear so far so they are not doing the glove thing in
female business stories...Only a few after dark pieces so far, I'll mumble
something if they come out during the evening wear.

Hey, why can't blokes have gloves, too?

For that matter, why do we all have to be unshaven to make it in the fashion
stakes?

-C.

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Hard to say without seeing the thing but you might wanna try leaving the
centre back lining (if there is a seam there) open so you can drag bits
through for inside finishing. Stitch the inside-back seam last,

-C.

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Michaela,

I only have Photoshop, but if you send me the pictures, I can see what I 
can do to them.  Sorry that I did not reply sooner, shortly after I posted 
the original message, I got slapped with a monster cold.

Jennifer
At 01:15 PM 4/30/05 +1200, you wrote:

>I have some that were sent to me by the lady who gave me these:
>http://frazzledfrau.glittersweet.com/mary/index.htm
>I can send you the full sized images if you have a program to clean them up
>a bit, or if you don't mind waiting a few days I can tryto clean them up and
>put them on my website.
>
>michaela de bruce
>http://glittersweet.com
>


what would you attempt to do if you knew you could not fail?  Anon.


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Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 08:40:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sequence of events for sewing jacket together
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
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> I am making a sailors short jacket circa 1706.  it's a linen lined heavy
> wool jacket.  I have cut out and sewn together the body and the sleeves so
> I
> basically have "two" jackets, a linen one and a wool one that I need to
> sew
> together.
>
>
>
> What should I do first?
>
> Linen to wool sleeve then attach to body then sew the body linen lining
> into
> the wool jacket
>
> Or
>
> Sew linen lining sleves to linen body, sew wool sleeves to wool body, then
> linen jacket into wool jacket?
>
>
>
> Or something else?

If you want to sew it by hand, attach sleeves to jacket and then nestle
inner jacket into outer jacket (wrong sides together) then turn edges and
hand sew.

If you want to sew by machine, then you can put jacket to jacket (right
sides together) and sew around entire perimeter.  Then use the arm hole to
turn them inside out.  Then attach finished sleeves.

I don't know the historical way to do it, but these are two modern options.

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sequence of events for sewing jacket together
Date: Wed, 04 May 2005 18:55:55 +0000
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Hhhm.  It depends on how much work you'll want to put into it.  Years ago I took apart a couture men's jacket and found lots of interal stuff that just were too cool

Sew the wool jacket body together with out the collar and sleeves; same for lining.  The internal sutff was a bit of thin wool cotton around the head and back shoulders of the armholes, and in the top/back head of the sleeve (wool sleeve) to get a good lay on the armhole head.  Hand stitched twill tape along any diagonal 'fold/roll' lines, meaning if there's a lapel type feature on the jacket, you could reinforce the roll line.  If not, you can just hand stitch the twill tape to just the fold/roll line of the 'collar'.  There was twill tape around the jacket armhole, at the stress point of button holes the fold/roll line of the hems of both the jacket and sleeves.

The collar wool and lining was sewn together and then inset onto the neck of the wool jacket,  then the lining whould be sewn over all the thicknesses of collar and wool jacket down the fronts.  To be sure you have a better time of turning the coat (not distort the lining armhole), you might want to leave part of the jacket hem unsewn (if you plan on sewing the lining and the wool together at the hem), so you can pull it right side out that way, and not through the armhole.

Sew the sleeve wool and lining together and inset into armhole (this is the time where you'd insert the thin layer of wool cotton, for fillng out the sleeve.  Don't put too much!).  Handsew lining down.  If you are hem finishing the jacket wool and lining, be sure to sew anchoring loops at the hem.

Anyhow, I hope this helps.  and hopefully i have not mixed things up, as I'm due to work in 5 minutes!

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> I am making a sailors short jacket circa 1706. it's a linen lined heavy 
> wool jacket. I have cut out and sewn together the body and the sleeves so I 
> basically have "two" jackets, a linen one and a wool one that I need to sew 
> together. 
> 
> 
> 
> What should I do first? 
> 
> Linen to wool sleeve then attach to body then sew the body linen lining into 
> the wool jacket 
> 
> Or 
> 
> Sew linen lining sleves to linen body, sew wool sleeves to wool body, then 
> linen jacket into wool jacket? 
> 
> 
> 
> Or something else? 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance 
> 
> 
> 
> Greg 
> 
> 
> 
> www.gentlemenoffortune.com 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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From: Kathryn Parke <kjp1685@yahoo.com>
Subject: [h-cost] 1950s clothing term
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Hello, all --

I hoping one of you can help me with a term I ran across in a 1951 novel (Margery Sharps Lisa Lillywhite), which is a reference to a mans being dressed in a boiled. I know what boiled wool is, and wondered if this were just a shortened version of a suit made of boiled wool, perhaps? But that doesnt entirely make sense to me in context. Here are the two relevant quotes:

We offer a little collation on Sunday, at nine oclock. I know it is not customary in England to honour the Sabbath with a boiled; I leave the point to your discretion

Our hero (such as he is!) is put off by the sender, but:

Even so Martin did not put on his boiled; he compromised with a dark suit and a white shirt.

Thanks in advance to any of you who can enlighten me!

KP
 

		
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1950s clothing term
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At 13:20 04/05/2005 -0700, you wrote:

>Hello, all --
>
>I hoping one of you can help me with a term I ran across in a 1951 novel 
>(Margery Sharps Lisa Lillywhite), which is a reference to a mans being 
>dressed in a boiled. I know what boiled wool is, and wondered if this 
>were just a shortened version of a suit made of boiled wool, perhaps? But 
>that doesnt entirely make sense to me in context. Here are the two 
>relevant quotes:
>
>We offer a little collation on Sunday, at nine oclock. I know it is not 
>customary in England to honour the Sabbath with a boiled; I leave the 
>point to your discretion
>
>Our hero (such as he is!) is put off by the sender, but:
>
>Even so Martin did not put on his boiled; he compromised with a dark suit 
>and a white shirt.
>
>Thanks in advance to any of you who can enlighten me!


This is a short form of "boiled shirt". This is a formal shirt, with a 
stiffened, highly starched and polished "dickie", usually worn with an 
old-fashioned dinner jacket, waistcoat and trousers. I don't know if a 
tuxedo was worn like that.

Suzi



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Sounds like a boiled white shirt front, usually starched, worn with fairly 
formal clothing; that's why he could "compromise" with a dark suit and 
white shirt.  I remember the "boiled shirt" from the Lord Peter Wimsey series.
Joan
At 01:20 PM 5/4/2005 -0700, you wrote:

>Hello, all --
>
>I hoping one of you can help me with a term I ran across in a 1951 novel 
>(Margery Sharps Lisa Lillywhite), which is a reference to a mans being 
>dressed in a boiled. I know what boiled wool is, and wondered if this 
>were just a shortened version of a suit made of boiled wool, perhaps? But 
>that doesnt entirely make sense to me in context. Here are the two 
>relevant quotes:
>
>We offer a little collation on Sunday, at nine oclock. I know it is not 
>customary in England to honour the Sabbath with a boiled; I leave the 
>point to your discretion
>
>Our hero (such as he is!) is put off by the sender, but:
>
>Even so Martin did not put on his boiled; he compromised with a dark suit 
>and a white shirt.
>
>Thanks in advance to any of you who can enlighten me!
>
>KP


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Subject: [h-cost] couture cloaks?
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This wonderful answer brings to mind a question - is there such a thing 
as a "couture" cloak? If there was/is - how would it be put together?
Cheers, Aylwen


On Thursday, May 5, 2005, at 04:55 AM, elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net 
wrote:

> Hhhm.  It depends on how much work you'll want to put into it.  Years 
> ago I took apart a couture men's jacket and found lots of interal 
> stuff that just were too cool
>
> Sew the wool jacket body together with out the collar and sleeves; 
> same for lining.  The internal sutff was a bit of thin wool cotton 
> around the head and back shoulders of the armholes, and in the 
> top/back head of the sleeve (wool sleeve) to get a good lay on the 
> armhole head.  Hand stitched twill tape along any diagonal 'fold/roll' 
> lines, meaning if there's a lapel type feature on the jacket, you 
> could reinforce the roll line.  If not, you can just hand stitch the 
> twill tape to just the fold/roll line of the 'collar'.  There was 
> twill tape around the jacket armhole, at the stress point of button 
> holes the fold/roll line of the hems of both the jacket and sleeves.
>
> The collar wool and lining was sewn together and then inset onto the 
> neck of the wool jacket,  then the lining whould be sewn over all the 
> thicknesses of collar and wool jacket down the fronts.  To be sure you 
> have a better time of turning the coat (not distort the lining 
> armhole), you might want to leave part of the jacket hem unsewn (if 
> you plan on sewing the lining and the wool together at the hem), so 
> you can pull it right side out that way, and not through the armhole.
>
> Sew the sleeve wool and lining together and inset into armhole (this 
> is the time where you'd insert the thin layer of wool cotton, for 
> fillng out the sleeve.  Don't put too much!).  Handsew lining down.  
> If you are hem finishing the jacket wool and lining, be sure to sew 
> anchoring loops at the hem.
>
> Anyhow, I hope this helps.  and hopefully i have not mixed things up, 
> as I'm due to work in 5 minutes!
>
> --
> Slan go foill
> Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri
>
> Emer's Needle Wares
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
>
>> I am making a sailors short jacket circa 1706. it's a linen lined 
>> heavy
>> wool jacket. I have cut out and sewn together the body and the 
>> sleeves so I
>> basically have "two" jackets, a linen one and a wool one that I need 
>> to sew
>> together.
>>
>>
>>
>> What should I do first?
>>
>> Linen to wool sleeve then attach to body then sew the body linen 
>> lining into
>> the wool jacket
>>
>> Or
>>
>> Sew linen lining sleves to linen body, sew wool sleeves to wool body, 
>> then
>> linen jacket into wool jacket?
>>
>>
>>
>> Or something else?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks in advance
>>
>>
>>
>> Greg
>>
>>
>>
>> www.gentlemenoffortune.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> _______________________________________________
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From: "Becky @ SewingCity.com" <becky@sewingcity.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] couture cloaks?
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-----Original Message-----
This wonderful answer brings to mind a question - is there such a thing 
as a "couture" cloak? If there was/is - how would it be put together?
Cheers, Aylwen


It's possible.  It would be mostly hand sewn, with careful attention to
pressing of the seams.  Stylish, and made from a high quality fabric.  Hem
would be hand sewn with a stabilizer such as twill tape or horse hair braid.

Becky
http://www.sewingcity.com


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Subject: [h-cost] sewing machine repair costs question
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How much is your line in the sand for repairing an old good machine?

I have a kenmore, it is over 25 years old, all steel parts. The
tension knob assembly broke completely off, the needle plate is
pretty badly chewed up.

I took it in to a local sewing machine shop that has been around
since the town was a town. He quoted, for the repair and the tuning
and cleaning of the machine, 75.00. He also has the elusive Teflon
foot for my type of machine for 4 bucks (which is a good price!).

I said go for it, the machine has been good to me for all these
years. But I want to know from you all ... is this a normal cost for
this much repair and tuning for a 25 year old Kenmore? I mean, if it
were a white or singer that was only 3 years old I am not sure if I
would want to spend that much when I can go buy the exact same thing
for the same amount.

Opinions? Testimonies?
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing machine repair costs question
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My experiences with sewing machine maintenance and repair puts your cost as very reasonable.  The last place I went to charged me about $90 just for a tune up and cleaning.  They found a problem with my cord for the pedal and replaced without charging me more.  The thing is, when I was getting quotes they ranged from the $90.00 to $150.  I was very lucky the lowest priced quote was for the sewing machine place that had the most recommendations.

Anyhow, that's what my experiences were... 

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> How much is your line in the sand for repairing an old good machine? 
> 
> I have a kenmore, it is over 25 years old, all steel parts. The 
> tension knob assembly broke completely off, the needle plate is 
> pretty badly chewed up. 
> 
> I took it in to a local sewing machine shop that has been around 
> since the town was a town. He quoted, for the repair and the tuning 
> and cleaning of the machine, 75.00. He also has the elusive Teflon 
> foot for my type of machine for 4 bucks (which is a good price!). 
> 
> I said go for it, the machine has been good to me for all these 
> years. But I want to know from you all ... is this a normal cost for 
> this much repair and tuning for a 25 year old Kenmore? I mean, if it 
> were a white or singer that was only 3 years old I am not sure if I 
> would want to spend that much when I can go buy the exact same thing 
> for the same amount. 
> 
> Opinions? Testimonies? 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing machine repair costs question
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Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio wrote:

> He quoted, for the repair and the tuning
> and cleaning of the machine, 75.00. He also has the elusive Teflon
> foot for my type of machine for 4 bucks (which is a good price!).
> 
> I said go for it, the machine has been good to me for all these
> years. But I want to know from you all ... is this a normal cost for
> this much repair and tuning for a 25 year old Kenmore? 

That sounds reasonable to me, especially as it includes replacing parts. 
I've seen tune-ups alone for that price. For a dependable machine of 
good quality I would be willing to pay more. You get years of additional 
use for a fraction of the price of a new, cheapie machine.



Dawn


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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] sewing machine repair costs question
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Last time I took my machine in for a clean and adjust it was 50 bucks- I
would think you are getting a deal! Pyro

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio
Sent: Friday, May 06, 2005 8:46 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] sewing machine repair costs question

How much is your line in the sand for repairing an old good machine?

I have a kenmore, it is over 25 years old, all steel parts. The
tension knob assembly broke completely off, the needle plate is
pretty badly chewed up.

I took it in to a local sewing machine shop that has been around
since the town was a town. He quoted, for the repair and the tuning
and cleaning of the machine, 75.00. He also has the elusive Teflon
foot for my type of machine for 4 bucks (which is a good price!).

I said go for it, the machine has been good to me for all these
years. But I want to know from you all ... is this a normal cost for
this much repair and tuning for a 25 year old Kenmore? I mean, if it
were a white or singer that was only 3 years old I am not sure if I
would want to spend that much when I can go buy the exact same thing
for the same amount.

Opinions? Testimonies?
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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I would say your repair man gave you a fair and reasonable price.  I think 
those older all metal machines are well worth keeping in working 
order.  I'm currently a fashion student and put my machines through a heavy 
work load.  The new ones are great, but the older machines are special.  My 
local repair guy (of course depending on the repair) charges about $100.00 
when I go in for regular (yearly maintenance and repairs.


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing machine repair costs question
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I would compare the cost of repair to the cost of getting a comparable 
replacement machine.  Given the fact that it is hard to find a newer 
machine with all steel parts, I'd get this one repaired.  Think of it as 
getting a nearly new machine for under $100.  Sounds better that way.
Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA

At 08:46 AM 5/6/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>How much is your line in the sand for repairing an old good machine?
>
>I have a kenmore, it is over 25 years old, all steel parts. The
>tension knob assembly broke completely off, the needle plate is
>pretty badly chewed up.
>
>I took it in to a local sewing machine shop that has been around
>since the town was a town. He quoted, for the repair and the tuning
>and cleaning of the machine, 75.00. He also has the elusive Teflon
>foot for my type of machine for 4 bucks (which is a good price!).
>
>I said go for it, the machine has been good to me for all these
>years. But I want to know from you all ... is this a normal cost for
>this much repair and tuning for a 25 year old Kenmore? I mean, if it
>were a white or singer that was only 3 years old I am not sure if I
>would want to spend that much when I can go buy the exact same thing
>for the same amount.
>
>Opinions? Testimonies?

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Subject: [h-cost] costume dvds for sale
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I'm clearing out some dvds and have a group of five
for sale, $25 for all, plus shipping of your choice.
They were all bought new in the past year, viewed
once.

Master and Commander, WS
Return of Martin Guerre
Restoration, WS
The Importance of Being Earnest (Rupert Everett, Colin
Firth), WS
The Advocate, WS

If you want to buy or have questions, please email me
off list at jmr779@alltel.net.

Melissa Roberts



	
		
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Date: Fri, 06 May 2005 07:59:03 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing machine repair costs question
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>I took it in to a local sewing machine shop that has been around
>since the town was a town. He quoted, for the repair and the tuning
>and cleaning of the machine, 75.00. He also has the elusive Teflon
>foot for my type of machine for 4 bucks (which is a good price!).

You couldn't replace a machine that good for $75, so I'd also say go for it.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Date: Fri, 6 May 2005 08:48:33 -0700
From: Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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So, where do you live? What town has this great repair shop? it seems
to me that, if you recommend him after the repairs, he'll have a whole
bunch of new customers between the recommendations you heard and his
prices. I paid $75 for a general cleaning and preventive maintenance
the last time I took my (same as you) 25 year old Kenmore into the
shop, and they found nothing wrong with it except dust.

LynnD

On 5/6/05, Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio <chiara@io.com> wrote:
> How much is your line in the sand for repairing an old good machine?
> 
> I have a kenmore, it is over 25 years old, all steel parts. The
> tension knob assembly broke completely off, the needle plate is
> pretty badly chewed up.
> 
> I took it in to a local sewing machine shop that has been around
> since the town was a town. He quoted, for the repair and the tuning
> and cleaning of the machine, 75.00. He also has the elusive Teflon
> foot for my type of machine for 4 bucks (which is a good price!).
> 
> I said go for it, the machine has been good to me for all these
> years. But I want to know from you all ... is this a normal cost for
> this much repair and tuning for a 25 year old Kenmore? I mean, if it
> were a white or singer that was only 3 years old I am not sure if I
> would want to spend that much when I can go buy the exact same thing
> for the same amount.
> 
> Opinions? Testimonies?
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri May  6 12:51:46 2005
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] couture cloaks?
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I think some of these tailoring techiques could easily be appliied to a 
cloak with collar (and/or) hood.  Check out Folkwear's Kinsale cloak.  
Having made one of these myself, the collar and openings (believe it or 
not) need special attention.  The collar to roll correctly and the 
opening to hang properly!

Sg

Becky @ SewingCity.com wrote:

>-----Original Message-----
>This wonderful answer brings to mind a question - is there such a thing 
>as a "couture" cloak? If there was/is - how would it be put together?
>Cheers, Aylwen
>
>
>It's possible.  It would be mostly hand sewn, with careful attention to
>pressing of the seams.  Stylish, and made from a high quality fabric.  Hem
>would be hand sewn with a stabilizer such as twill tape or horse hair braid.
>
>Becky
>http://www.sewingcity.com
>
>
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Its a smokin' deal if you ask me!  Sounds like you did the right thing!

Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio wrote:

>How much is your line in the sand for repairing an old good machine?
>
>I have a kenmore, it is over 25 years old, all steel parts. The
>tension knob assembly broke completely off, the needle plate is
>pretty badly chewed up.
>
>I took it in to a local sewing machine shop that has been around
>since the town was a town. He quoted, for the repair and the tuning
>and cleaning of the machine, 75.00. He also has the elusive Teflon
>foot for my type of machine for 4 bucks (which is a good price!).
>
>I said go for it, the machine has been good to me for all these
>years. But I want to know from you all ... is this a normal cost for
>this much repair and tuning for a 25 year old Kenmore? I mean, if it
>were a white or singer that was only 3 years old I am not sure if I
>would want to spend that much when I can go buy the exact same thing
>for the same amount.
>
>Opinions? Testimonies?
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>  
>
_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing machine repair costs question
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hehe ....  It is in McKinney Texas. It was recommended to me by a
newcomer to our group, she is an awsome resource for the hole in the
wall places all over the DFW area. Going to try to convince her to
start a website with me for them, kinda like the Daily Candy. I know
where Neiman Marcus sends their 'extra' stuff from the sample sales
after the employees pick over them. That kinda stuff..)

Willett's Sew and Vac
http://www.willetts-pfaff.com/

He is the local vacuum repair man too. :)


On Fri, May 6, 2005 10:48 am, Lynn Downward said:
> So, where do you live? What town has this great repair shop? it
> seems
> to me that, if you recommend him after the repairs, he'll have a
> whole
> bunch of new customers between the recommendations you heard and his
> prices. I paid $75 for a general cleaning and preventive maintenance
> the last time I took my (same as you) 25 year old Kenmore into the
> shop, and they found nothing wrong with it except dust.
>
> LynnD
>
> On 5/6/05, Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio <chiara@io.com> wrote:
>> How much is your line in the sand for repairing an old good
>> machine?
>>
>> I have a kenmore, it is over 25 years old, all steel parts. The
>> tension knob assembly broke completely off, the needle plate is
>> pretty badly chewed up.
>>
>> I took it in to a local sewing machine shop that has been around
>> since the town was a town. He quoted, for the repair and the
>> tuning
>> and cleaning of the machine, 75.00. He also has the elusive Teflon
>> foot for my type of machine for 4 bucks (which is a good price!).
>>
>> I said go for it, the machine has been good to me for all these
>> years. But I want to know from you all ... is this a normal cost
>> for
>> this much repair and tuning for a 25 year old Kenmore? I mean, if
>> it
>> were a white or singer that was only 3 years old I am not sure if
>> I
>> would want to spend that much when I can go buy the exact same
>> thing
>> for the same amount.
>>
>> Opinions? Testimonies?
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


Franchesca Havas
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From: KATHRYN WOLTERS <albrakat7@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing machine repair costs question
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Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote:
>I took it in to a local sewing machine shop that has been around
>since the town was a town. He quoted, for the repair and the tuning
>and cleaning of the machine, 75.00. He also has the elusive Teflon
>foot for my type of machine for 4 bucks (which is a good price!).

You couldn't replace a machine that good for $75, so I'd also say go for it.


CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
www.FunStuft.com

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Oh, well. It would take $75 to send my heavy sewing machine from San
Francisco Bay Area to Texas. I guess I'll stick to the guy nearby. But
those of you in the DFW area, you've been handed a jewel.
LynnD

On 5/6/05, Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio <chiara@io.com> wrote:
> Hehe ....  It is in McKinney Texas. It was recommended to me by a
> newcomer to our group, she is an awsome resource for the hole in the
> wall places all over the DFW area. Going to try to convince her to
> start a website with me for them, kinda like the Daily Candy. I know
> where Neiman Marcus sends their 'extra' stuff from the sample sales
> after the employees pick over them. That kinda stuff..)
> 
> Willett's Sew and Vac
> http://www.willetts-pfaff.com/
> 
> He is the local vacuum repair man too. :)
> 
> On Fri, May 6, 2005 10:48 am, Lynn Downward said:
> > So, where do you live? What town has this great repair shop? it
> > seems
> > to me that, if you recommend him after the repairs, he'll have a
> > whole
> > bunch of new customers between the recommendations you heard and his
> > prices. I paid $75 for a general cleaning and preventive maintenance
> > the last time I took my (same as you) 25 year old Kenmore into the
> > shop, and they found nothing wrong with it except dust.
> >
> > LynnD

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Subject: [h-cost] Table of Contents of NESAT 8
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Eva I. Andersson, who is a member of another costume history list to which I 
subscribe, posted the following list of articles from NESAT 8, which is also 
supposedly coming out this year.  Thank you, Eva!

It's called "Priceless invention of humanity - Textiles"
and it is published in the series Acta Archaeologica Lodziensia NR
50/1, in Lodz, Poland and its ISSN is 0065-0956.

 Carol A. Christiansen, A Reanalysis of Fleece Evolution Studies
 Fabienne MĂŠdard, Cristophe MoulhĂŠrat, Sophie MĂŠry, Discovery of
Charred Yarn in a Bronze Age Burial at Hili (Abu Dhabi Region, United
Arab Emirates)
 Carmen Alfaro Giner, Late Roman Textiles in the North of Spain
(;Las Ermitas, Vitoria)
 Ida Demant, Textiles and Dress-Fasteners from Lerdal Grave 101
 Heidemarie Farke,Textile Spuren in einem kaiserzeitliche Grab aus
Norddeutschland
 Katarzyna Barska, The Roman Period warp-weighted Loom from Ozarow
Mazowiecki, Poland
 Chris Verhecken-Lammens, Marc Rogge, Antoine de Moor, Textiles found
in a Merovingian Woman's Grave at Beerlegem, Belgium
 Marianne Vedeler, Pleated Fragments of Clothing from Norway
 Ulla Mannering, Dress in Scandinavian Iconography of the 5th to 10th
centuries A.D.
 Antoinette Rast-Eicher, Early Medieval Costume in Switzerland
 Anne Hedeager Krag, New Light on a Viking Garment from Ladby,
Denmark
 Milena BravermanovĂĄ, The oldest Textile items from the Reliquary Tomb
of St. Ludmila
 Elizabeth Wincott Heckett, A Tenth Century Cloth from Bogstown Co.
Meath
 Malgorzata Grupa, Textiles from the Early Medieval Cemetery at
Kaldus, Pomerania, Poland
 Eva I. Andersson, Written Traces ; Wills in 13th to 15th
century Scandinavia
 Susan MĂśller-Wiering, Schiffbau und Textil: AnsĂ¤tze zu einer
systematischen Untersuchung von Kalfat
 Lise Raeder Knudsen, Written Patterns in Early Tablet Weaving
 Katarzyna Urbaniak-Walczak, Ein koptisches Textilfragment in
Leinwand-Schuss-Kompositbindung aus der Sammlung des Nationalmuseums
in Warschau
 Marek Trojanowicz, Izabella Surowiec, Jowita Orska-Gawrys, Bogdan
Szostek, Katarzyna Urbaniak-Walczak, Magdalena Biesaga,
Chromatographic Examination of Dyes Extracted from Coptic Textiles
from the Collections of the National Museum in Warsaw
 Klaus Tidow, Neue Funde von Webstuhlteilen und Geweben aus
Ausgrabungen in Braunschweig (Niedersachsen) und Wiesloch
(Baden-WĂźrttemberg)
 Fabian Peise, Eine LĂźbecker Kase im Danziger Paramentenschatz
 Hanna Zimmerman, 16th century Hose and their Manufacture Anna
Drazkowska, 17th-18th century Clothing from Children's Graves
discovered in the Church at Kostrzyn on the Oder, Poland
 Gudrun BĂśttcher, Versuche und Ergebnisse bei der Rekonstruktion von
Nadelbindungstextilien
 Britt Nowak, Zur Beiarbeitung und Konservierung von GoldfĂ¤den aus dem
frĂźhmittelalterlichen MĂ¤nnergrab 21 in Lauchheim/Mittelhofen
(Ostalbkreis/Baden-WĂźrttemberg)
 Elizabeth E. Peacock, MoseforsĂ¸g ; Two generations of Bog
Burial Studies. Interim Textile Results.
 Eva Andersson, The reconstruction of Archaeological Textiles, a
Source Critical Approach

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson

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At 18:55 04/05/2005 +0000, you wrote:
>Hhhm.  It depends on how much work you'll want to put into it.  Years ago 
>I took apart a couture men's jacket and found lots of interal stuff that 
>just were too cool
>
>Sew the wool jacket body together with out the collar and sleeves; same 
>for lining.  The internal sutff was a bit of thin wool cotton around the 
>head and back shoulders of the armholes, and in the top/back head of the 
>sleeve (wool sleeve) to get a good lay on the armhole head.  Hand stitched 
>twill tape along any diagonal 'fold/roll' lines, meaning if there's a 
>lapel type feature on the jacket, you could reinforce the roll line.  If 
>not, you can just hand stitch the twill tape to just the fold/roll line of 
>the 'collar'.  There was twill tape around the jacket armhole, at the 
>stress point of button holes the fold/roll line of the hems of both the 
>jacket and sleeves.
>
>The collar wool and lining was sewn together and then inset onto the neck 
>of the wool jacket,  then the lining whould be sewn over all the 
>thicknesses of collar and wool jacket down the fronts.  To be sure you 
>have a better time of turning the coat (not distort the lining armhole), 
>you might want to leave part of the jacket hem unsewn (if you plan on 
>sewing the lining and the wool together at the hem), so you can pull it 
>right side out that way, and not through the armhole.
>
>Sew the sleeve wool and lining together and inset into armhole (this is 
>the time where you'd insert the thin layer of wool cotton, for fillng out 
>the sleeve.  Don't put too much!).  Handsew lining down.  If you are hem 
>finishing the jacket wool and lining, be sure to sew anchoring loops at 
>the hem.
>
>Anyhow, I hope this helps.  and hopefully i have not mixed things up, as 
>I'm due to work in 5 minutes!


I would have thought that for a sailor's jacket, the above is not entirely 
necessary. I have not found such modern tailoring before c1830 (ish!). The 
lining and interlining of 18th century coats is not the same as modern 
coats - there is a diagram in "Cut of Men's Clothes" which shows much of 
the padding etc. required for an upper class coat, and I think I have seen 
another for a child's coat. From a purely practical point of view I would 
not have thought this would be done for a sailor's coat.

Suzi


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From: "Jennifer / Guenievre" <generys@blazemail.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] 1950s clothing term
Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 16:37:06 -0400
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The first part sounds more like they're talking about food - a boiled might
be short for "a boiled dinner" - ie an Irish boiled dinner (thus the
comparison to England) - something like
http://beef.allrecipes.com/az/30918.asp .  

Not sure about the clothing part, though...


Gueničvre 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Kathryn Parke
> Sent: Wednesday, May 04, 2005 4:21 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] 1950s clothing term
> 
> 
> Hello, all --
> 
> I hoping one of you can help me with a term I ran across in a 1951 novel
> (Margery Sharps Lisa Lillywhite), which is a reference to a mans being
> dressed in a boiled. I know what boiled wool is, and wondered if this
> were just a shortened version of a suit made of boiled wool, perhaps? But
> that doesnt entirely make sense to me in context. Here are the two
> relevant quotes:
> 
> We offer a little collation on Sunday, at nine oclock. I know it is not
> customary in England to honour the Sabbath with a boiled; I leave the
> point to your discretion
> 
> Our hero (such as he is!) is put off by the sender, but:
> 
> Even so Martin did not put on his boiled; he compromised with a dark suit
> and a white shirt.
> 
> Thanks in advance to any of you who can enlighten me!
> 
> KP
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------
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I've mainly used two methods
1 - make up two complete jackets, including sleeves (one lining and one 
outer), then hem stitch the lining into the outer (while it's inside out)

2 - the way used traditionally by couture ateliers and tailors - make up the 
bodies as two jackets and attach them together - make up the sleeve, and 
stitch the wool part of the sleeve into the body (treating outer and lining of body 
as one), then whip stitch the sleeve lining in to cover the sleeve seam.

There are other methods (at least two I can think of).

Overall I prefer the latter, but I don't think either way is right or wrong - 
just personal preference.





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BTW, there is also "Mom's Goop" which is supposed to take up stains on 
fabric.

The company is at http://www.goophandcleaner.com

Marc
---------------------------------
Do you have any experience with this on a cotton shirt? I've just
managed my 'clever trick of the day', i.e. flipping a black flair pen
point-first into my new white embroidered blouse. *Insert sound of
grinding teeth here*

Kate McClure
And for my next magical trick . . . 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] couture cloaks?
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>This wonderful answer brings to mind a question - is there such a thing
>as a "couture" cloak? If there was/is - how would it be put together?
>Cheers, Aylwen
>
>
>It's possible.  It would be mostly hand sewn, with careful attention to
>pressing of the seams.  Stylish, and made from a high quality fabric.  Hem
>would be hand sewn with a stabilizer such as twill tape or horse hair braid.

In the late 1800s-early 1900s, Paquin made couture cloaks, capelets, and 
things like that.  Paquin was a contemporary of Worth, who invented the 
couture fashion industry as we know it today.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing machine repair costs question
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> How much is your line in the sand for repairing an old good machine?
> 

At our local repair shops (central MA) a tune up for any machine(serger or standard) runs about 70$ no matter how old or new.  It seems to be the standard bench fee for sewing machines in our area.

I'm trying do decide if my old machine is worth a tune as well.  I was lucky enough to take it apart myself and fix the timming by removing gunk from inside the bobbin casing.  I should give myself the 70$ I saved to go buy more fabric. :)

-annette

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing machine repair costs question
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I know in Port Arthur Tx just getting a tune up on my fairly new machine
"Brother" it cost me $62.  And then $47 for an old Singer just to clean
it up and check it out.
theresa

>>> chiara@io.com 5/6/2005 8:46:21 AM >>>
How much is your line in the sand for repairing an old good machine?

I have a kenmore, it is over 25 years old, all steel parts. The
tension knob assembly broke completely off, the needle plate is
pretty badly chewed up.

I took it in to a local sewing machine shop that has been around
since the town was a town. He quoted, for the repair and the tuning
and cleaning of the machine, 75.00. He also has the elusive Teflon
foot for my type of machine for 4 bucks (which is a good price!).

I said go for it, the machine has been good to me for all these
years. But I want to know from you all ... is this a normal cost for
this much repair and tuning for a 25 year old Kenmore? I mean, if it
were a white or singer that was only 3 years old I am not sure if I
would want to spend that much when I can go buy the exact same thing
for the same amount.

Opinions? Testimonies?
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Date: Fri, 6 May 2005 08:01:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing machine repair costs question
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
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> How much is your line in the sand for repairing an old good machine?
>
> I have a kenmore, it is over 25 years old, all steel parts. The
> tension knob assembly broke completely off, the needle plate is
> pretty badly chewed up.
>
> I took it in to a local sewing machine shop that has been around
> since the town was a town. He quoted, for the repair and the tuning
> and cleaning of the machine, 75.00. He also has the elusive Teflon
> foot for my type of machine for 4 bucks (which is a good price!).
>
> I said go for it, the machine has been good to me for all these
> years. But I want to know from you all ... is this a normal cost for
> this much repair and tuning for a 25 year old Kenmore? I mean, if it
> were a white or singer that was only 3 years old I am not sure if I
> would want to spend that much when I can go buy the exact same thing
> for the same amount.
>
> Opinions? Testimonies?

I have not had to do any major repair on my machine (knock on wood) but a
"tune up" in my area runs over $50.  And from prior experience getting
parts for my serger, parts are not cheap either.  So I would say that if
you are happy with your machine & it has been good to you, then it is
worth $75 to fix 'er up.

Also, given the discussion a little while ago about older machines with
good steel parts versus newer machines that have lots of plastic, you
should hold onto your all steel machine.  Think of it like an old reliable
car that you don't have to make payments on but that requires a trip to
the mechanics now and then.  In the long run, you will get more for your
buck than if you buy something new.

My two cents....

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] couture cloaks?
Date: Fri, 6 May 2005 11:44:51 -0500
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
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The House of Worth, Poiret, Fortuny, and others all made couture cloaks.
Of course they were called many different things: mantles, opera cloaks,
etc. They would be made to coordinate with one or more gowns or dresses.
The House of Worth made a beautiful everning short cape in the
mid-1890's that was a virtual copy of a Spanish nobleman's cape of the
1500's that was in Charles Worth's private collection. Such capes or
cloaks(often made of lace in the early 20th century)would stand out from
a "mere" dressmaker's or home-produced cloak or cape with an exclusive
fabric, master embroidery and/or beading. The House of Worth was famous
for its exclusive fabrics, custom-woven for Worth, with often
large-scale motifs and designs based on some antique designs Charles
Frederick Worth either owned or based on paintings he was familiar with.

However, dressmaker or home-produced items could be as finally or better
made in terms of quality of construction and women's magazines of the
day were chock full of how-to projects to make their own dress
accessories and trimmings as well as the clothing of the day.

Cindy Abel


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>From another Kenmore lover, I think this is a good price.  The last time I
had the tension assembly replaced (12 years ago?) the cost for the unit
alone was $30.  At that time, I had in-home service from Sears for about $45
a year 'insurance, parts extra'. I usually pay pay about $50 for tune up
with my present shop.
The 'retired machine' is still my backup for the Pfaff Jeans and Satin; but
ye olde Kenmore can still do Her Stuff!  I got a new machine only because
the Sears man was having trouble finding the esoteric parts (from the
extensive Sears system of sewing machine inventory) to replace gears, belts
and such that were showing their miles after 35 years of heavy constant use
in the world of Costume.

Kathleen




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, May 06, 2005 9:46 AM
Subject: [h-cost] sewing machine repair costs question


> How much is your line in the sand for repairing an old good machine?
>
> I have a kenmore, it is over 25 years old, all steel parts. The
> tension knob assembly broke completely off, the needle plate is
> pretty badly chewed up.
>
> I took it in to a local sewing machine shop that has been around
> since the town was a town. He quoted, for the repair and the tuning
> and cleaning of the machine, 75.00. He also has the elusive Teflon
> foot for my type of machine for 4 bucks (which is a good price!).
>
> I said go for it, the machine has been good to me for all these
> years. But I want to know from you all ... is this a normal cost for
> this much repair and tuning for a 25 year old Kenmore? I mean, if it
> were a white or singer that was only 3 years old I am not sure if I
> would want to spend that much when I can go buy the exact same thing
> for the same amount.
>
> Opinions? Testimonies?
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <BB3EEC584579204DB6E2CA0F6DB7566F0130D485@exbe01.blue.jays.creighton.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] couture cloaks?
Date: Sat, 7 May 2005 08:39:22 -0400
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And, don't forget Chanel for her significant contributions in the Twentieth
Century! Much of the home sewing trade was based on her democratic ideas of
Class in society need not be regulated by the size of one's purse.  Every
woman had the right and means of being fashionable!

Kathleen



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, May 06, 2005 12:44 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] couture cloaks?


>
>
> The House of Worth, Poiret, Fortuny, and others all made couture cloaks.
> Of course they were called many different things: mantles, opera cloaks,
> etc. They would be made to coordinate with one or more gowns or dresses.
> The House of Worth made a beautiful everning short cape in the
> mid-1890's that was a virtual copy of a Spanish nobleman's cape of the
> 1500's that was in Charles Worth's private collection. Such capes or
> cloaks(often made of lace in the early 20th century)would stand out from
> a "mere" dressmaker's or home-produced cloak or cape with an exclusive
> fabric, master embroidery and/or beading. The House of Worth was famous
> for its exclusive fabrics, custom-woven for Worth, with often
> large-scale motifs and designs based on some antique designs Charles
> Frederick Worth either owned or based on paintings he was familiar with.
>
> However, dressmaker or home-produced items could be as finally or better
> made in terms of quality of construction and women's magazines of the
> day were chock full of how-to projects to make their own dress
> accessories and trimmings as well as the clothing of the day.
>
> Cindy Abel
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat May  7 12:35:59 2005
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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sequence of events for sewing jacket together
Date: Sat, 07 May 2005 16:31:02 +0000
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You may be quite right.  I'm sorry if I've given our bad or wrong construction information for 1830 ish clothing...1830 ish is not my period.

My reply is purely from a informational perspective, of what I've seen done in tailoring.

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> At 18:55 04/05/2005 +0000, you wrote: 
> >Hhhm. It depends on how much work you'll want to put into it. Years ago 
> >I took apart a couture men's jacket and found lots of interal stuff that 
> >just were too cool 
> > 
> >Sew the wool jacket body together with out the collar and sleeves; same 
> >for lining. The internal sutff was a bit of thin wool cotton around the 
> >head and back shoulders of the armholes, and in the top/back head of the 
> >sleeve (wool sleeve) to get a good lay on the armhole head. Hand stitched 
> >twill tape along any diagonal 'fold/roll' lines, meaning if there's a 
> >lapel type feature on the jacket, you could reinforce the roll line. If 
> >not, you can just hand stitch the twill tape to just the fold/roll line of 
> >the 'collar'. There was twill tape around the jacket armhole, at the 
> >stress point of button holes the fold/roll line of the hems of both the 
> >jacket and sleeves. 
> > 
> >The collar wool and lining was sewn together and then inset onto the neck 
> >of the wool jacket, then the lining whould be sewn over all the 
> >thicknesses of collar and wool jacket down the fronts. To be sure you 
> >have a better time of turning the coat (not distort the lining armhole), 
> >you might want to leave part of the jacket hem unsewn (if you plan on 
> >sewing the lining and the wool together at the hem), so you can pull it 
> >right side out that way, and not through the armhole. 
> > 
> >Sew the sleeve wool and lining together and inset into armhole (this is 
> >the time where you'd insert the thin layer of wool cotton, for fillng out 
> >the sleeve. Don't put too much!). Handsew lining down. If you are hem 
> >finishing the jacket wool and lining, be sure to sew anchoring loops at 
> >the hem. 
> > 
> >Anyhow, I hope this helps. and hopefully i have not mixed things up, as 
> >I'm due to work in 5 minutes! 
> 
> 
> I would have thought that for a sailor's jacket, the above is not entirely 
> necessary. I have not found such modern tailoring before c1830 (ish!). The 
> lining and interlining of 18th century coats is not the same as modern 
> coats - there is a diagram in "Cut of Men's Clothes" which shows much of 
> the padding etc. required for an upper class coat, and I think I have seen 
> another for a child's coat. From a purely practical point of view I would 
> not have thought this would be done for a sailor's coat. 
> 
> Suzi 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing machine repair costs question
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>
>> How much is your line in the sand for repairing an old good machine?
>>
>
you know, I wasn't going to answer this thread, since all the answers so
far have echoed my sentiments, but I think I would like to say here, that
just about the only reason to get rid of such a good machine, in my
opinion is if parts just become unavailable and I couldn't find a decent
parts machine in a couple years afterward.

I mean think about it.  this is a machine with no built in obsolescence,
as far as I can see.   it is built to last. and as far as I can see, there
are no real inovations in sewing machines since the zigzag, except maybe
the stretch stitch.   So why not fix it as long as possible?   anything
you could replace it with would be a lesser machine or MUCH more
expensive.   and it will STILL need repair, so you'd be paying extra for
the priviledge of taking care of a different machine.

So, there, FWIW, is my opinion.   Kitty


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sequence of events for sewing jacket together
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At 16:31 07/05/2005 +0000, you wrote:
>You may be quite right.  I'm sorry if I've given our bad or wrong 
>construction information for 1830 ish clothing...1830 ish is not my period.
>
>My reply is purely from a informational perspective, of what I've seen 
>done in tailoring.


Greg is an 18th century sailor/pirate - I made him a coat a few years ago 
when he lived in England!! The information you give I should have said 
thanks for, as it reinforces my later tailoring efforts.



>-------------- Original message --------------
>
> > At 18:55 04/05/2005 +0000, you wrote:
> > >Hhhm. It depends on how much work you'll want to put into it. Years ago
> > >I took apart a couture men's jacket and found lots of interal stuff that
> > >just were too cool
> > >
> > >Sew the wool jacket body together with out the collar and sleeves; same
> > >for lining. The internal sutff was a bit of thin wool cotton around the
> > >head and back shoulders of the armholes, and in the top/back head of the
> > >sleeve (wool sleeve) to get a good lay on the armhole head. Hand stitched
> > >twill tape along any diagonal 'fold/roll' lines, meaning if there's a
> > >lapel type feature on the jacket, you could reinforce the roll line. If
> > >not, you can just hand stitch the twill tape to just the fold/roll 
> line of
> > >the 'collar'. There was twill tape around the jacket armhole, at the
> > >stress point of button holes the fold/roll line of the hems of both the
> > >jacket and sleeves.
> > >
> > >The collar wool and lining was sewn together and then inset onto the neck
> > >of the wool jacket, then the lining whould be sewn over all the
> > >thicknesses of collar and wool jacket down the fronts. To be sure you
> > >have a better time of turning the coat (not distort the lining armhole),
> > >you might want to leave part of the jacket hem unsewn (if you plan on
> > >sewing the lining and the wool together at the hem), so you can pull it
> > >right side out that way, and not through the armhole.
> > >
> > >Sew the sleeve wool and lining together and inset into armhole (this is
> > >the time where you'd insert the thin layer of wool cotton, for fillng out
> > >the sleeve. Don't put too much!). Handsew lining down. If you are hem
> > >finishing the jacket wool and lining, be sure to sew anchoring loops at
> > >the hem.
> > >
> > >Anyhow, I hope this helps. and hopefully i have not mixed things up, as
> > >I'm due to work in 5 minutes!
> >
> >
> > I would have thought that for a sailor's jacket, the above is not entirely
> > necessary. I have not found such modern tailoring before c1830 (ish!). The
> > lining and interlining of 18th century coats is not the same as modern
> > coats - there is a diagram in "Cut of Men's Clothes" which shows much of
> > the padding etc. required for an upper class coat, and I think I have seen
> > another for a child's coat. From a purely practical point of view I would
> > not have thought this would be done for a sailor's coat.
> >
> > Suzi
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing machine repair costs question
Date: Sat, 7 May 2005 14:12:30 -0400
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Kitty, you are so right.  My Beloved Kenmore, as I have said in the past,
was my (still first) best investment ever.  But the very suggestion that
parts might not be available for ever was exactly my reason for finally
breaking down and getting something newer.  When the motor had to be
replaced, it took my very faithful Sears repairman 6 weeks to locate the
small machine motor and there was a gear assembly that he also thought I
should replace before it too became obsolete.  So, since he was working on
All sewing machines, I asked him which machines were the least frequent on
his list for repair. The Pfaff Jeans and Satin was one of his
recommendations for 'semi automatic' reliability.

I will also add, that in March I picked up a Kenmore 158.3180 virtually new,
but without anything but the power cord, in a thrift shop for $20.  You can
believe that I snatched it up and am collecting the necessary pieces like
the buttonhole plate and cam knob from E-bay for far less than these pieces
are available from Sears.  This machine sold for about$500 new in the mid
1980's.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <basyefelton@floodcity.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 07, 2005 12:45 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing machine repair costs question


> >
> >> How much is your line in the sand for repairing an old good machine?
> >>
> >
> you know, I wasn't going to answer this thread, since all the answers so
> far have echoed my sentiments, but I think I would like to say here, that
> just about the only reason to get rid of such a good machine, in my
> opinion is if parts just become unavailable and I couldn't find a decent
> parts machine in a couple years afterward.
>
> I mean think about it.  this is a machine with no built in obsolescence,
> as far as I can see.   it is built to last. and as far as I can see, there
> are no real inovations in sewing machines since the zigzag, except maybe
> the stretch stitch.   So why not fix it as long as possible?   anything
> you could replace it with would be a lesser machine or MUCH more
> expensive.   and it will STILL need repair, so you'd be paying extra for
> the priviledge of taking care of a different machine.
>
> So, there, FWIW, is my opinion.   Kitty
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat May  7 14:16:17 2005
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing machine repair costs question
Date: Sat, 7 May 2005 14:17:20 -0400
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Oh, and did you do another Tea this year?  I attended one a couple of weeks
ago. I was the "Program".  I brought some 'show and tell' items re the Tea
Table, and used readings from some of my 19th C Etiquette books.  Lots of
fun.

Kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <basyefelton@floodcity.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 07, 2005 12:45 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing machine repair costs question


> >
> >> How much is your line in the sand for repairing an old good machine?
> >>
> >
> you know, I wasn't going to answer this thread, since all the answers so
> far have echoed my sentiments, but I think I would like to say here, that
> just about the only reason to get rid of such a good machine, in my
> opinion is if parts just become unavailable and I couldn't find a decent
> parts machine in a couple years afterward.
>
> I mean think about it.  this is a machine with no built in obsolescence,
> as far as I can see.   it is built to last. and as far as I can see, there
> are no real inovations in sewing machines since the zigzag, except maybe
> the stretch stitch.   So why not fix it as long as possible?   anything
> you could replace it with would be a lesser machine or MUCH more
> expensive.   and it will STILL need repair, so you'd be paying extra for
> the priviledge of taking care of a different machine.
>
> So, there, FWIW, is my opinion.   Kitty
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat May  7 15:11:41 2005
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It seems like the list has been slow lately.  Is there an event going on? 
Are people just out enjoying the spring weather instead of playing on the
computer?

Just curious....

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Slow list...
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At 12:10 07/05/2005 -0700, you wrote:

>It seems like the list has been slow lately.  Is there an event going on?
>Are people just out enjoying the spring weather instead of playing on the
>computer?
>
>Just curious....
>
>Diana


Mine is coming in "chunks"  - a lot all at once, then nothing. I fear there 
is a "chunk" missing in the ether though!!

Suzi


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Subject: [h-cost] Query re 17th century bodices
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Can anyone suggest other sources for studying 17th century (English and 
European, or N. American) ladies' bodices than the following. I have an 
extensive collection of general books such as Boucher, Tilke, James 
Laver,and others (senior moment as I cannot remember the name of the big 
maroon one! - yay Millia Davenport.)

I have

Cut of Women's Clothes
Arnold
Hunnisett
Historic Costume in Detail   Hart and North
Danish book on Christian lV which has a bodice.
Small handbooks from the London Museum (all of them)


I would prefer photos of originals, rather than re-drawings, good though 
those listed above are.

Thanking you in hopes.

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1950s clothing term
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In a message dated 5/7/2005 7:35:41 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
generys@blazemail.com writes:

The  first part sounds more like they're talking about food - a boiled might
be  short for "a boiled dinner" -


That does seem to make more sense from the context.  I believe that  the "New 
England boiled dinner" was sometimes made on Saturday, to eat cold on  
Sunday, so one did not violate the Sabbath by cooking.
 
Ann Wass
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Morning,

I hoping some of you theatre people can help with sources for unusual 
makeup colors. I need red eyeshadow and gold lipstick. I've already been 
through the chain pharmacies and beauty supply and the mainstream makeup 
lines just don't have these items. I did get a red eyeliner from 
Wet-n-Wild, but they just don't carry the "wild" end of things anymore 
(around here anyway).

I'm looking for a really yellow bright metallic gold lipstick. What I 
can find is either too subtle, too brown, or it's clear lipgloss. I need 
opaque in-your-face color.

Any suggestions?



Dawn



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> 
> The  first part sounds more like they're talking about food - a boiled might
> be  short for "a boiled dinner" -
> 
> 
>> That does seem to make more sense from the context.  I believe that  the "New 
>> England boiled dinner" was sometimes made on Saturday, to eat cold on  
>> Sunday, so one did not violate the Sabbath by cooking.
>

That was my first thought, too, except that I've *never* heard it 
refered to like that. Even my grandparents didn't call it that.

Then there's the term "collation", which is a light meal, something a 
boiled dinner certainly is not.



Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for makeup
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> Morning,
>
> I hoping some of you theatre people can help with sources for unusual
> makeup colors. I need red eyeshadow and gold lipstick. I've already been
> through the chain pharmacies and beauty supply and the mainstream makeup
> lines just don't have these items. I did get a red eyeliner from
> Wet-n-Wild, but they just don't carry the "wild" end of things anymore
> (around here anyway).
>
> I'm looking for a really yellow bright metallic gold lipstick. What I
> can find is either too subtle, too brown, or it's clear lipgloss. I need
> opaque in-your-face color.
>
> Any suggestions?

My first idea was Halloween makeup.  I did a quick search and there are
plenty of online suppliers.  I usually stockpile in October so that I have
things all year 'round.

Theater makeup will also work but it seems like it runs more expensive
than the Halloween version.  Then again, if the makeup has to withstand a
lot of wear (i.e. many hours) then theater quality makeup may be best for
you.

Good luck!

BTW...what are you going to wear it for?

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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I asked him which
> machines were the least frequent on his list for repair. The Pfaff Jeans
> and Satin was one of his
> recommendations for 'semi automatic' reliability.
>

This is good to know, thanks.  Kitty

> I will also add, that in March I picked up a Kenmore 158.3180 virtually
> new, but without anything but the power cord, in a thrift shop for $20.
> You can believe that I snatched it up and am collecting the necessary
> pieces like the buttonhole plate and cam knob from E-bay for far less
> than these pieces are available from Sears.  This machine sold for
> about$500 new in the mid 1980's.
>
> Kathleen

You know, anytime I find a machine which gives me the sturdy reliability,
or I should say that any machine which reminds me of the ones which have
given me the sturdy reliability that the Necchi and the Kenmore do, I snap
them up.  I have three girls, two of whom sew and all "borrow" machines
from me.  NO ONE gets the necchi so they have to make do with what I have
as my backup machines.   I also provide to the girls of our church, so I
am always on the look out for these machines.   I just wish I could find
homes for the black single stitch machines I have, they so need some
loving care.   I would love to fix them up as handcranks if I knew where
they could find homes.

 LOL  Kitty


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Have you tried the costume rental stores in your area? If that fails, 
you could always order it online. A quick google search for "theatrical 
makeup" turned up quite a few places.

With luck, someone on this list will now how you make them yourself.

Best of luck!

Dawn wrote:
> Morning,
> 
> I hoping some of you theatre people can help with sources for unusual 
> makeup colors. I need red eyeshadow and gold lipstick. I've already been 
> through the chain pharmacies and beauty supply and the mainstream makeup 
> lines just don't have these items. I did get a red eyeliner from 
> Wet-n-Wild, but they just don't carry the "wild" end of things anymore 
> (around here anyway).
> 
> I'm looking for a really yellow bright metallic gold lipstick. What I 
> can find is either too subtle, too brown, or it's clear lipgloss. I need 
> opaque in-your-face color.
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> 
> 
> Dawn
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Query re 17th century bodices
References: <20050430220047.46072.qmail@web25704.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>	<20050430220047.46072.qmail@web25704.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
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At least one of the Fashion in Detail books have some up close shots of 
extant garments, a few of which are bodices.
Sg

Suzi Clarke wrote:

>
> Can anyone suggest other sources for studying 17th century (English 
> and European, or N. American) ladies' bodices than the following. I 
> have an extensive collection of general books such as Boucher, Tilke, 
> James Laver,and others (senior moment as I cannot remember the name of 
> the big maroon one! - yay Millia Davenport.)
>
> I have
>
> Cut of Women's Clothes
> Arnold
> Hunnisett
> Historic Costume in Detail   Hart and North
> Danish book on Christian lV which has a bodice.
> Small handbooks from the London Museum (all of them)
>
>
> I would prefer photos of originals, rather than re-drawings, good 
> though those listed above are.
>
> Thanking you in hopes.
>
> Suzi
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "Crystal Gold" <kiri@telus.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] looking for makeup
Date: Sat, 7 May 2005 18:12:37 -0700
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Have you tried Make Up Forever?
They over a great range of high-quality makeup in "unusual" colours.

-Crystal.

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: May 7, 2005 3:34 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] looking for makeup


Morning,

I hoping some of you theatre people can help with sources for unusual
makeup colors. I need red eyeshadow and gold lipstick. I've already been
through the chain pharmacies and beauty supply and the mainstream makeup
lines just don't have these items. I did get a red eyeliner from
Wet-n-Wild, but they just don't carry the "wild" end of things anymore
(around here anyway).

I'm looking for a really yellow bright metallic gold lipstick. What I
can find is either too subtle, too brown, or it's clear lipgloss. I need
opaque in-your-face color.

Any suggestions?



Dawn



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To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] sewing machine repair costs question
Date: Sat, 7 May 2005 21:31:38 -0400
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Kitty wrote:
<snip>
I just wish I could find
homes for the black single stitch machines I have, they so need some
loving care.   I would love to fix them up as handcranks if I knew where
they could find homes.

Reply:  Umn, Kitty, where are you?  I am one of a number of folks who
collect the old black straight stitchers.  What models do you have?  You can
email me off list if you wish.  megan at benchite dot com is the address.
If you are nowhere near me, well, I might know somebody close enough to
help.
-Megan


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>
> Reply:  Umn, Kitty, where are you?  I am one of a number of folks who
> collect the old black straight stitchers.  What models do you have?  You
> can email me off list if you wish.  megan at benchite dot com is the
> address. If you are nowhere near me, well, I might know somebody close
> enough to help.
> -Megan
>
> I have two model 15 clones from the fifties, and two model 66's.   I'm
not sure what else I have but those are the ones that come to mind. 
They are the ones which are true orphans, they were seperated from their
treadles when the antique dealer/butcher I got them from made end tables
out of their cabinets and bases.

Kitty, in SW Pennsylvania.


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I have learnt an object lesson today - whenever someone is borrowing costuming on short notice, no matter if they say 'oh, I only need such-and-such item,' I will henceforth make sure that I have EVERY SINGLE PIECE OF COSTUMING IN MY POSSESSION ready and available, because as sure as God made little green apples, such-and-such item will NOT be the only item that the borrower will need! ( Can't half tell what happened in our house this morning, can you? ;-} ) 

Re-enactors!!!!! *growl* *gnash teeth* 

Honestly, I sometimes think that half of them couldn't organise their way out of a wet paper bag.

Sorry about the grumble, but I had to vent! ( By the way, I am casting no aspersions on re-enactors I don't know, I am chucking nasturtiums at some of the ones I know too well e.g the ones involved in this mornings' little farce! )

Thanks for listening. I feel better now. =)

Joannah. 
( who is now off to play taxi service to said re-enactors *quiet growl* )



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Actually, this was answered earlier by a couple of people on the list -- it's a reference to a "boiled shirt," which is a stiffly starched, formal white dress shirt -- having that much of the term, I then googled it, and found out lots and lots I didn't know before!  Isn't this a great list?!
 
:)
KP

AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

In a message dated 5/7/2005 7:35:41 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
generys@blazemail.com writes:

The first part sounds more like they're talking about food - a boiled might
be short for "a boiled dinner" -


That does seem to make more sense from the context. I believe that the "New 
England boiled dinner" was sometimes made on Saturday, to eat cold on 
Sunday, so one did not violate the Sabbath by cooking.

Ann Wass
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Greetings,

I just saw Kingdom of Heaven and am wondering about the costumes that the leading actress wore. They were so beautiful.
I would like to make something for an Arabian Nights event and am wondering how accurate they would be for referance.

Thank You for your wisdom and input.
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Query re 17th century bodices
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>
> Can anyone suggest other sources for studying 17th century (English and
> European, or N. American) ladies' bodices than the following.

Not for study but for pure costuming drool-ability....you must see Queen
Margot.  It is french with english subtitles.  The dresses in the movie
are to die for!  Just ignore the ones that are fetish/raunchy.  But the
ones that are supposed to be historical are beautiful.

By the way, the movie is a bit, um, sexual.  Just a warning.

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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LOL, no, I would have liked to, but I am sticking to smaller tea occasions
til my life settles down a bit.   I don't know if I mentioned it but last
year, just in time for my tea, I inherited two grandchildren since their
parents were incapacitated.    They are getting their lives back together
now, but I still have a very hectic day most days and cannot plan my days
very well.  I am lucky if I can make it to the doctors for my appts
without having to reschedule a couple times.    So this year, I'm not
doing a churchwide tea, but I do have  a few people over now and then, and
intend to make it more formal as soon as I get my house in order.

This year another daughter intends to get married and I am making a
walking skirt and a jacket to go with it.   I am going to be making myself
a corset in the next few weeks, then the skirt then the blouse.   I am
planning to make the corset in linen with either cording or boning, can't
make up my mind.   I want to have a smooth line, with no rolling, but also
to be as comfortable as possible and heat is my biggest problem in August.

Last time she got married I wore an all in one elastic garment and the
whole bottom rolled up to my waist.  try about six layers of elastic
around your waist for five hours.   LOL  Kitty



> Oh, and did you do another Tea this year?  I attended one a couple of
> weeks ago. I was the "Program".  I brought some 'show and tell' items re
> the Tea Table, and used readings from some of my 19th C Etiquette books.
>  Lots of fun.
>
> Kathleen
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <basyefelton@floodcity.net>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Saturday, May 07, 2005 12:45 PM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] sewing machine repair costs question
>
>
>> >
>> >> How much is your line in the sand for repairing an old good
>> machine?
>> >>
>> >
>> you know, I wasn't going to answer this thread, since all the answers
>> so far have echoed my sentiments, but I think I would like to say
>> here, that just about the only reason to get rid of such a good
>> machine, in my opinion is if parts just become unavailable and I
>> couldn't find a decent parts machine in a couple years afterward.
>>
>> I mean think about it.  this is a machine with no built in
>> obsolescence, as far as I can see.   it is built to last. and as far
>> as I can see, there are no real inovations in sewing machines since
>> the zigzag, except maybe the stretch stitch.   So why not fix it as
>> long as possible?   anything you could replace it with would be a
>> lesser machine or MUCH more expensive.   and it will STILL need
>> repair, so you'd be paying extra for the priviledge of taking care of
>> a different machine.
>>
>> So, there, FWIW, is my opinion.   Kitty
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>
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On Saturday 07 May 2005 6:33 pm, Dawn wrote:
> Morning,
>
> I hoping some of you theatre people can help with sources for unusual
> makeup colors. I need red eyeshadow and gold lipstick. I've already been
> through the chain pharmacies and beauty supply and the mainstream makeup
> lines just don't have these items. I did get a red eyeliner from
> Wet-n-Wild, but they just don't carry the "wild" end of things anymore
> (around here anyway).
>
> I'm looking for a really yellow bright metallic gold lipstick. What I
> can find is either too subtle, too brown, or it's clear lipgloss. I need
> opaque in-your-face color.
>
> Any suggestions?


There's got to be someplace on the Internet you can buy these things, and 
more...


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun May  8 07:36:41 2005
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From: "Cabbage Rose Costumes" <cabbagerose@sbcglobal.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for makeup
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Have you checked M.A.C.?  They have strong colors and the pro shop has red 
in shadow & pigments.  I think they also have some gold lip glosses, etc. 
If your not happy with what you find at M.A.C., try a Sephora, which has all 
the brands in one place.

My daughter is a makeup artist, so if you still don't find what you're 
looking for, I can get you more info.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes
www.cabbagerosecostumes.com
Theatrical Costume Design

"Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none:
be able for thine enemy rather in power than use,
and keep thy friend under thy own life's key:
be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
W. Shakespeare

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 07, 2005 3:33 PM
Subject: [h-cost] looking for makeup


> Morning,
>
> I hoping some of you theatre people can help with sources for unusual 
> makeup colors. I need red eyeshadow and gold lipstick. I've already been 
> through the chain pharmacies and beauty supply and the mainstream makeup 
> lines just don't have these items. I did get a red eyeliner from 
> Wet-n-Wild, but they just don't carry the "wild" end of things anymore 
> (around here anyway).
>
> I'm looking for a really yellow bright metallic gold lipstick. What I can 
> find is either too subtle, too brown, or it's clear lipgloss. I need 
> opaque in-your-face color.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Date: Sun, 08 May 2005 12:43:42 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Query re 17th century bodices
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At 15:01 07/05/2005 -0700, you wrote:

> >
> > Can anyone suggest other sources for studying 17th century (English and
> > European, or N. American) ladies' bodices than the following.
>
>Not for study but for pure costuming drool-ability....you must see Queen
>Margot.  It is french with english subtitles.  The dresses in the movie
>are to die for!  Just ignore the ones that are fetish/raunchy.  But the
>ones that are supposed to be historical are beautiful.
>
>By the way, the movie is a bit, um, sexual.  Just a warning.
>
>Diana


Thank you - I did see it - such beautiful faces too - and it made me want 
to know more about the history of that time in France.

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for makeup
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Have  you  considered using lipstick for the eyeshadow and gold
eyeshadow for the lipstick?

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender
--- Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com> wrote:
From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
Date: Sat, 7 May 2005 20:34:08 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for makeup
On Saturday 07 May 2005 6:33 pm, Dawn wrote:
> Morning,
>
> I hoping some of you theatre people can help with sources for
unusual
>  makeup  colors. I need red eyeshadow and gold lipstick. I've
already been
>  through  the  chain  pharmacies  and  beauty  supply and the
mainstream makeup
>  lines  just don't have these items. I did get a red eyeliner
from
>  Wet-n-Wild,  but  they  just  don't  carry the "wild" end of
things anymore
> (around here anyway).
>
>  I'm  looking  for  a  really  yellow  bright  metallic  gold
lipstick. What I
>  can  find  is  either  too  subtle, too brown, or it's clear
lipgloss. I need
> opaque in-your-face color.
>
> Any suggestions?
There's  got  to be someplace on the Internet you can buy these
things, and
more...
--
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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> Have  you  considered using lipstick for the eyeshadow and gold
> eyeshadow for the lipstick?
>
> Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


Gold powder eyeshadow works very well as lipstick, you just put a base of
lipgloss on first to give the powder something to stick to, this would even
have much better staying power than lipstick.

You have to be *very* careful when using red near your eyes though, many red
dyes can cause infection and blindness. I would search out actual red eye
makeup, as it's made specifically for that purpose, and therefore safe to be
near your eyes.

Just my two bits,
Sheridan :-)


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Try  MUD - Makeup Designory, Los Angeles School of make-up.
I googled "mud makeup design" .  It's a school in Los Angeles that has 
programs in theatre, film, and regular makeup.  I was fascinated at their 
booth at the USITT conference in Toronto. Their books show how to do all 
sorts of things.
Kate
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Crystal Gold" <kiri@telus.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 07, 2005 9:12 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] looking for makeup


> Have you tried Make Up Forever?
> They over a great range of high-quality makeup in "unusual" colours.
>
> -Crystal.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Dawn
> Sent: May 7, 2005 3:34 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] looking for makeup
>
>
> Morning,
>
> I hoping some of you theatre people can help with sources for unusual
> makeup colors. I need red eyeshadow and gold lipstick. I've already been
> through the chain pharmacies and beauty supply and the mainstream makeup
> lines just don't have these items. I did get a red eyeliner from
> Wet-n-Wild, but they just don't carry the "wild" end of things anymore
> (around here anyway).
>
> I'm looking for a really yellow bright metallic gold lipstick. What I
> can find is either too subtle, too brown, or it's clear lipgloss. I need
> opaque in-your-face color.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> --
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> 


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun May  8 11:36:21 2005
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Just try http://www.makeupschool.com/ and see the face that comes up!
Kate
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Crystal Gold" <kiri@telus.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 07, 2005 9:12 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] looking for makeup


> Have you tried Make Up Forever?
> They over a great range of high-quality makeup in "unusual" colours.
> 
> -Crystal.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Dawn
> Sent: May 7, 2005 3:34 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: [h-cost] looking for makeup
> 
> 
> Morning,
> 
> I hoping some of you theatre people can help with sources for unusual
> makeup colors. I need red eyeshadow and gold lipstick. I've already been
> through the chain pharmacies and beauty supply and the mainstream makeup
> lines just don't have these items. I did get a red eyeliner from
> Wet-n-Wild, but they just don't carry the "wild" end of things anymore
> (around here anyway).
> 
> I'm looking for a really yellow bright metallic gold lipstick. What I
> can find is either too subtle, too brown, or it's clear lipgloss. I need
> opaque in-your-face color.
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> 
> 
> Dawn
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
>

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun May  8 13:53:57 2005
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Date: Sun, 8 May 2005 18:51:29 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: [h-cost] Kingdom of Heaven - general
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Status: RO

I have to say I just saw it and I was very impressed.  Some things were 
not accurate for the 1180s, and I suspect hoping for hose instead of 
trousers is a lost cause, but there was nothing horribly jarring. 
Nothing totally fantasy, nothing that had been over-elaborated, or 
over-grunged, to make it look "more medieval" and just end up more 
Hollywood.  Of course, long Crusader robes and surcoats look very sexy 
on their own account (or have I been a Norman too long?) but I thought 
it was an excellent overall impression of the period.  One for the 
costume movie bookshelf.

Jean


mischele1 <mischele1@cox.net> wrote
>Greetings,
>
>I just saw Kingdom of Heaven and am wondering about the costumes that 
>the leading actress wore. They were so beautiful.
>I would like to make something for an Arabian Nights event and am 
>wondering how accurate they would be for referance.
>
>Thank You for your wisdom and input.
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

-- 
Jean Waddie
_______________________________________________
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http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun May  8 13:54:17 2005
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: [h-cost] Kingdom of Heaven - general
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I have to say I just saw it and I was very impressed.  Some things were 
not accurate for the 1180s, and I suspect hoping for hose instead of 
trousers is a lost cause, but there was nothing horribly jarring. 
Nothing totally fantasy, nothing that had been over-elaborated, or 
over-grunged, to make it look "more medieval" and just end up more 
Hollywood.  Of course, long Crusader robes and surcoats look very sexy 
on their own account (or have I been a Norman too long?) but I thought 
it was an excellent overall impression of the period.  One for the 
costume movie bookshelf.

Jean


mischele1 <mischele1@cox.net> wrote
>Greetings,
>
>I just saw Kingdom of Heaven and am wondering about the costumes that 
>the leading actress wore. They were so beautiful.
>I would like to make something for an Arabian Nights event and am 
>wondering how accurate they would be for referance.
>
>Thank You for your wisdom and input.
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

-- 
Jean Waddie
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

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Jean Waddie wrote:

> I have to say I just saw it and I was very impressed.  Some things were 
> not accurate for the 1180s, and I suspect hoping for hose instead of 
> trousers is a lost cause

Yeah, sigh.  I'm looking forward to seeing the movie, though.

Hey, just as a sanity check, folks -- does anyone know of any evidence 
of trousers for men in England in the 1200s?  I'm having this online 
argument, see, and someone thinks I'm insane, but I'm fairly sure they 
didn't have them.

(Of course my biggest problem with the argument is that it's a 
public/mundane forum and the person has said "I'm in the SCA, I'd know. 
We have to have authentic documentation for everything...")

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

A multimillion-dollar ad campaign blames Democrats for the fact that 
"courtrooms sit empty." In fact, there are now half as many judicial 
vacancies as when Bush took office. And of the 46 federal judgeships 
that remain vacant, Bush has named only 16 replacements.  -- Factcheck.org
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Kingdom of Heaven - general
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I completely agree with this. I loved the long surcotes, the silk, the 
armour! Seeing Saddil F. acting again was also a HUGE bonus. He did a 
fantastic job!

But that Saracen armour, OMG, now I want to hit the shop and just produce!!!

(`'ˇ.¸(`'ˇ.¸(`'ˇ.¸¸.ˇ'´)¸.ˇ '´)¸.ˇ'´)
Ťˇ.ˇ*¨`ˇ¤ Chiara ¤ˇ´¨*ˇ.ˇť
(¸.ˇ'´(¸.ˇ'´(¸.ˇ'´`'ˇ.¸)`'ˇ .¸)`'ˇ.¸)
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jean Waddie" <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 08, 2005 12:51 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Kingdom of Heaven - general


:I have to say I just saw it and I was very impressed.  Some things were
: not accurate for the 1180s, and I suspect hoping for hose instead of
: trousers is a lost cause, but there was nothing horribly jarring.
: Nothing totally fantasy, nothing that had been over-elaborated, or
: over-grunged, to make it look "more medieval" and just end up more
: Hollywood.  Of course, long Crusader robes and surcoats look very sexy
: on their own account (or have I been a Norman too long?) but I thought
: it was an excellent overall impression of the period.  One for the
: costume movie bookshelf.
:
: Jean
:
:
: mischele1 <mischele1@cox.net> wrote
: >Greetings,
: >
: >I just saw Kingdom of Heaven and am wondering about the costumes that
: >the leading actress wore. They were so beautiful.
: >I would like to make something for an Arabian Nights event and am
: >wondering how accurate they would be for referance.
: >
: >Thank You for your wisdom and input.

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kingdom of Heaven - tangent
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At 14:10 08/05/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>Jean Waddie wrote:
>
>>I have to say I just saw it and I was very impressed.  Some things were 
>>not accurate for the 1180s, and I suspect hoping for hose instead of 
>>trousers is a lost cause
>
>Yeah, sigh.  I'm looking forward to seeing the movie, though.
>
>Hey, just as a sanity check, folks -- does anyone know of any evidence of 
>trousers for men in England in the 1200s?  I'm having this online 
>argument, see, and someone thinks I'm insane, but I'm fairly sure they 
>didn't have them.
>
>(Of course my biggest problem with the argument is that it's a 
>public/mundane forum and the person has said "I'm in the SCA, I'd know. We 
>have to have authentic documentation for everything...")
>
>--


Not quite late enough I know, but some people seem to think that the 
"Bayeux Tapestry" shows Norman knights and foot soldiers in trousers. I 
don't have the reference unfortunately, but looked at some pictures and 
thought they could be right. Considering the tapestry was woven at the end 
of the 11th century, they *could* have spilled into the 12th?

What about the book on Anglo Saxon clothing by ??Gail ....Crocker? - sorry, 
early medieval is not my thing.

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kingdom of Heaven - tangent
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On Sunday 08 May 2005 2:15 pm, Suzi Clarke wrote:
[snip]

> What about the book on Anglo Saxon clothing by ??Gail ....Crocker? - sorry,
> early medieval is not my thing.

Dress in Anglo-Saxon England by Dr. Gale Owen-Crocker is what you're thinking 
of.  
-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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Subject: [h-cost] studying 17th century bodices
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Patts from real garments in fabulous collections:
Norah Waugh, The Cut of Women's Clothes
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

> Can anyone suggest other sources for studying 17th century (English
> and European, or N. American) ladies' bodices than the following. I
> have an extensive collection of general books such as Boucher, Tilke,
> James Laver,and others (senior moment as I cannot remember the name of
> the big maroon one! - yay Millia Davenport.)

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kingdom of Heaven - tangent
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I just went through my copy of the Bayeux Tapest book and it looks more like tunics split for horseback riding over hose than pants.  There is trim that goes down the front and around the bottom of many of them that would appear rather strange on pants, but is often done on split garments.  None of them goes below the knee either.  I am in SCA and I wouldn't use that as documentation for pants for that period, but then I am way too fussy about my research.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:

From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 08 May 2005 19:15:14 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kingdom of Heaven - tangent

At 14:10 08/05/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>Jean Waddie wrote:
>
>>I have to say I just saw it and I was very impressed.  Some things were 
>>not accurate for the 1180s, and I suspect hoping for hose instead of 
>>trousers is a lost cause
>
>Yeah, sigh.  I'm looking forward to seeing the movie, though.
>
>Hey, just as a sanity check, folks -- does anyone know of any evidence of 
>trousers for men in England in the 1200s?  I'm having this online 
>argument, see, and someone thinks I'm insane, but I'm fairly sure they 
>didn't have them.
>
>(Of course my biggest problem with the argument is that it's a 
>public/mundane forum and the person has said "I'm in the SCA, I'd know. We 
>have to have authentic documentation for everything...")
>
>--


Not quite late enough I know, but some people seem to think that the 
"Bayeux Tapestry" shows Norman knights and foot soldiers in trousers. I 
don't have the reference unfortunately, but looked at some pictures and 
thought they could be right. Considering the tapestry was woven at the end 
of the 11th century, they *could* have spilled into the 12th?

What about the book on Anglo Saxon clothing by ??Gail ....Crocker? - sorry, 
early medieval is not my thing.

Suzi


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At 11:32 08/05/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>Patts from real garments in fabulous collections:
>Norah Waugh, The Cut of Women's Clothes
>--cin
>Cynthia Barnes
>CinBarnes@gmail.com
>
> > Can anyone suggest other sources for studying 17th century (English
> > and European, or N. American) ladies' bodices than the following. I
> > have an extensive collection of general books such as Boucher, Tilke,
> > James Laver,and others (senior moment as I cannot remember the name of
> > the big maroon one! - yay Millia Davenport.)


Thanks but I thought I mentioned that I had a copy of this book, plus 
Arnold and Hunnisett.

Suzi


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kingdom of Heaven - tangent
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At 14:27 08/05/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>On Sunday 08 May 2005 2:15 pm, Suzi Clarke wrote:
>[snip]
>
> > What about the book on Anglo Saxon clothing by ??Gail ....Crocker? - sorry,
> > early medieval is not my thing.
>
>Dress in Anglo-Saxon England by Dr. Gale Owen-Crocker is what you're thinking
>of.
>--
>Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>


Thank you for jogging my memory - not my period as I said.

Suzi


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kingdom of Heaven - tangent
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Status: RO

Some of them do look rather like shortie romper suits, but they are 
always the same colour top and legs, so they couldn't be trousers, ie 
something that only comes up to the waist.  I think it would be fair to 
say all authoritative opinion considers them to be representing 
front-and-back split tunics and mailshirts.  But wouldn't it be great to 
turn up to an event in your romper suit?  ;-)

The answer for Cynthia - it's impossible to prove a negative, she has to 
show her positive sources.

Jean

Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com> wrote
>I just went through my copy of the Bayeux Tapest book and it looks more 
>like tunics split for horseback riding over hose than pants.  There is 
>trim that goes down the front and around the bottom of many of them 
>that would appear rather strange on pants, but is often done on split 
>garments.  None of them goes below the knee either.  I am in SCA and I 
>wouldn't use that as documentation for pants for that period, but then 
>I am way too fussy about my research.
>
>Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender
>
>
>--- Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:
>
>From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
>Date: Sun, 08 May 2005 19:15:14 +0100
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kingdom of Heaven - tangent
>
>At 14:10 08/05/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>>Jean Waddie wrote:
>>
>>>I have to say I just saw it and I was very impressed.  Some things were
>>>not accurate for the 1180s, and I suspect hoping for hose instead of
>>>trousers is a lost cause
>>
>>Yeah, sigh.  I'm looking forward to seeing the movie, though.
>>
>>Hey, just as a sanity check, folks -- does anyone know of any evidence of
>>trousers for men in England in the 1200s?  I'm having this online
>>argument, see, and someone thinks I'm insane, but I'm fairly sure they
>>didn't have them.
>>
>>(Of course my biggest problem with the argument is that it's a
>>public/mundane forum and the person has said "I'm in the SCA, I'd know. We
>>have to have authentic documentation for everything...")
>>
>>--
>
>
>Not quite late enough I know, but some people seem to think that the
>"Bayeux Tapestry" shows Norman knights and foot soldiers in trousers. I
>don't have the reference unfortunately, but looked at some pictures and
>thought they could be right. Considering the tapestry was woven at the end
>of the 11th century, they *could* have spilled into the 12th?
>
>What about the book on Anglo Saxon clothing by ??Gail ....Crocker? - sorry,
>early medieval is not my thing.
>
>Suzi
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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>
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-- 
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Kingdom of Heaven - tangent
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Hi~!

I don't know of any hard evidence for pants in England in the 12th century. We do know that some
Viking cultures had pants (Thorsbjerg, for example) but we aren't even sure about a lot of details
there, either, and that doesn't account for _England_ -or- the 12th century.  As was mentioned,
"Dress in Anglo-Saxon England" is an excellent place to start researching. While the Bayeaux is a
wonderful piece of history, and much can be gleaned from it, it really isn't the best source to use
for exact documentation, IMHO. It's wonderful to use as a starting point which leads to further
sources, or to use as part of a more thorough set of research support documents.  

Cynthia, since your debate partner is convinced they did in fact have pants in England in the 12th
century, wouldn't it be incumbent upon them to provide the documentation necessary to support their
claim? In other words, tell them to put up or shut up! Scads of folks would be delighted to see it,
including me! ;o)  Now, its entirely possible that some of the more rural peoples continued to wear
pants instead of switching to the more Normanish hosen and braies, but we can't really be sure of
that, so we must go with what we know, or at least what we know the most about. 

FWIW, "Woven into the Earth" which documents the Greenland finds has some 13th century clothing.
They didn't find any pants there, but they did find lots of hosen. Again, it isn't England, but
it's something.

Pax,
::Linda::

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On Behalf Of Cynthia Virtue
Sent: Sunday, May 08, 2005 2:10 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kingdom of Heaven - tangent

Hey, just as a sanity check, folks -- does anyone know of any evidence 
of trousers for men in England in the 1200s?  I'm having this online 
argument, see, and someone thinks I'm insane, but I'm fairly sure they 
didn't have them.

(Of course my biggest problem with the argument is that it's a 
public/mundane forum and the person has said "I'm in the SCA, I'd know. 
We have to have authentic documentation for everything...")





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You want Ben Nye, for theatrical makeup. They have a full range, including the metallics you want. I'm looking at an old catalog right now and it doesn't have a website--if I go looking for a website I'll have to reload my e-mail program, which alas takes FOREVER.... Bob Kelley is another venerable stage-makeup company. Kryolan is a somewhat newer company. I'll leave it up to you to do a search for their addresses. Ben Nye is located in L.A.; Kryolan is in San Francisco I think. Bob Kelley is probably in California too. Bob Kelley makeup is the one that shows up most predictably in costume stores.
Good luck.

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-----Original Message-----
From: Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
Sent: May 8, 2005 10:00 AM
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for makeup

Have  you  considered using lipstick for the eyeshadow and gold
eyeshadow for the lipstick?

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender
--- Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com> wrote:
From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
Date: Sat, 7 May 2005 20:34:08 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for makeup
On Saturday 07 May 2005 6:33 pm, Dawn wrote:
> Morning,
>
> I hoping some of you theatre people can help with sources for
unusual
>  makeup  colors. I need red eyeshadow and gold lipstick. I've
already been
>  through  the  chain  pharmacies  and  beauty  supply and the
mainstream makeup
>  lines  just don't have these items. I did get a red eyeliner
from
>  Wet-n-Wild,  but  they  just  don't  carry the "wild" end of
things anymore
> (around here anyway).
>
>  I'm  looking  for  a  really  yellow  bright  metallic  gold
lipstick. What I
>  can  find  is  either  too  subtle, too brown, or it's clear
lipgloss. I need
> opaque in-your-face color.
>
> Any suggestions?
There's  got  to be someplace on the Internet you can buy these
things, and
more...
--
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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Linda Rice wrote:

> Cynthia, since your debate partner is convinced they did in fact have pants in England in the 12th
> century, wouldn't it be incumbent upon them to provide the documentation necessary to support their
> claim?

Yep.  That's what I told ... him, I think.  I think he's wedded to the 
idea of being able to wear pants, but hasn't actually seen any 
documentation.  He's kind of defensive.

It started because of a little potentially-hoax piece going around about 
testing beer in the 1200s -- those who are curious can go read the 
genesis and the various comments; the site covers hoaxes of all sorts, 
not just medieval ones.

http://www.museumofhoaxes.com/hoax/weblog/comments/3072/

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

A multimillion-dollar ad campaign blames Democrats for the fact that 
"courtrooms sit empty." In fact, there are now half as many judicial 
vacancies as when Bush took office. And of the 46 federal judgeships 
that remain vacant, Bush has named only 16 replacements.  -- Factcheck.org
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kingdom of Heaven - general 
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Have had Nige disecting it for the last day (he saw it yesterday afternoon - 
I was working).

Of course he's only into th emilitary stuff, but he said the only things 
wrong (apart from the trousers issue) were more to do with dating than just out 
and out inventions.

Debs
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kingdom of Heaven - general 
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Greetings--

> Of course he's only into th emilitary stuff, but he said the only things
> wrong (apart from the trousers issue) were more to do with dating than
just out
> and out inventions.

That's the general impression I got as well.  I thought the Norman-style
helmets with the nasals perhaps slightly old-fashioned for 1184, but not
badly off, and the mail was nice (no knitted stuff visible, although someone
on another list pointed out that the mail leggings might have been
knitted--although you barely see them).  The overall look with the surcotes,
shields, etc. was quite nice.  The archers looked more 14th century to
me--not so much because of their helmets (again, on another list, apparently
those date to as far back as the 13th century) but because of their short
arming coats.   The main character spends a lot of time in a shirt that is
probably a bit on the short side for the period.

The Saracen stuff, in general, was drooly.  Beautiful armor, fabulous
banners, wonderful siege engines.  Have no idea how period, but very lovely
to look at.  You can throw the Princess' clothing into this same category.
Again, absolutely no idea whether that was at all period for an upper-class
Middle Eastern woman (or whether a woman of European descent would have
*always* "gone native"--I know they did sometimes...) but the overall look
was beautiful.  So were some of the interiors of the castles.

I also enjoyed the movie--although I'm eager to see Ridley Scott's
director's cut.  There were some parts that were a little too jumpy--for
instance, we see very little of Godfrey's (the main character's father)
travelling companions--just enough to pique our interest (there's a large
man with longish hair and a German accent, and a Saracen, among others)
before the movie moves on and focuses mainly on other things (I won't tell
how;  that would be a spoiler).  I'm hoping the longer version fleshes out
some of this.  I have to agree--this is one of the better medieval movies
I've seen in a long time, and I don't think the clothing introduced any
egregious errors such as late 13th century kilts or blue face paint :-)

Susan

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Date: Sun, 08 May 2005 21:54:36 -0400
From: J Schueller <jaurbik@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kingdom of Heaven - tangent
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He-he-he is the only comment my husband and i could make.

J Schueller
p.s. we are both in the sca

maybe this poerson is not in the same sca as we are?


Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> (Of course my biggest problem with the argument is that it's a 
> public/mundane forum and the person has said "I'm in the SCA, I'd 
> know. We have to have authentic documentation for everything...")
>


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On Sunday 08 May 2005 3:48 pm, Linda Rice wrote:
> Hi~!
>
> I don't know of any hard evidence for pants in England in the 12th century.
> We do know that some Viking cultures had pants (Thorsbjerg, for example)

The Thorsbjerg trousers are way pre-Viking; they are believed to date back to 
the third or fourth century A.D. (the Viking period is, roughly, 8th through 
10th c A.D.).  You can see a scan of a picture of them here (the software may 
ask you for a login; just hitting the "login in as a guest" button will let 
you see the discussion thread, with the picture:

http://slumberland.org/moodle/mod/forum/discuss.php?d=582

> but we aren't even sure about a lot of details there, either, 

Other than what we can glean from examining the surviving, mostly-intact 
garment itself, that is.  The Thorsjberg trousers (I'm never sure of the 
spelling so I see no reason not to use yours) appear to be very close-fitting 
footed trousers.  We know that because one of the fully-enclosed feet 
survives.  They also have very obvious belt loops.  (This is the fact that 
impressed my husband, when I showed him the picture; he thought they looked a 
lot like modern jeans.  However, they have no pockets, and no fly, unlike 
jeans of today).

If you have access to SCA Compleat Anachronist #103, the author makes an 
interesting case for the proposition that the early Irish often wore close 
fitting trousers like the Thorsjberg trousers.  

> and that 
> doesn't account for _England_ -or- the 12th century.  

True.

> As was mentioned, 
> "Dress in Anglo-Saxon England" is an excellent place to start researching.
> While the Bayeaux is a wonderful piece of history, and much can be gleaned
> from it, it really isn't the best source to use for exact documentation,
> IMHO. It's wonderful to use as a starting point which leads to further
> sources, or to use as part of a more thorough set of research support
> documents.

Yes.  "Dress in Anglo-Saxon England goes on at some length about the 
difficulty of documenting costume, especially men's costume, for this period.  
The 25-word or less summary:  Documentation is difficult because we don't 
have archaelogical remains from England for this period, and the art of the 
period is less representational than a costume historian might like....



> Cynthia, since your debate partner is convinced they did in fact have pants
> in England in the 12th century, wouldn't it be incumbent upon them to
> provide the documentation necessary to support their claim? In other words,
> tell them to put up or shut up! Scads of folks would be delighted to see
> it, including me! ;o)  Now, its entirely possible that some of the more
> rural peoples continued to wear pants instead of switching to the more
> Normanish hosen and braies, but we can't really be sure of that, so we must
> go with what we know, or at least what we know the most about.
>
> FWIW, "Woven into the Earth" which documents the Greenland finds has some
> 13th century clothing. They didn't find any pants there, but they did find
> lots of hosen. Again, it isn't England, but it's something.

True.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Trip
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At 07:38 PM 5/2/2005, you wrote:
Sorry I'm writing this a week late - just wading thru all the digests after 
our trip to Costume Con!!

>Date: Mon, 2 May 2005 11:15:53 -0500
>From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
>Subject: [h-cost] fabric stores & etc in WY, MT, ID
>
>The husband and I are planning a nice rambling trip all over Wyoming,
>Montana, and Idaho (and driving through NW Missouri and Nebraska to get
>there).  We might dip into Washington briefly, but we wouldn't be going far
>enough west to hit the Pendleton outlets.

There is a Pendleton outlet in Nebraska City, NE., if you're passing thru 
there.  It's not on the main downtown business street, but a block or two 
off it.  Lots of people go there, so just ask a local, they can direct 
you.  I personally have not been there (and live just 45 miles away, go 
figure!!)  E-mail me privately if you have more questions.

Sandy

>Are there any other fabric stores in that part of the country that are 
>worth visiting?  I'm particularly in the market for wool, linen, or silk 
>damasks and brocades, but I certainly
>wouldn't pass up nicely priced basics such as tropical weight worsteds or 
>gobs of linens.
>
>-E House

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kingdom of Heaven - tangent
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cynthia Virtue" <cvirtue+dated+1131136818.cc53d0@thibault.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 08, 2005 4:47 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kingdom of Heaven - tangent


>
> Yep.  That's what I told ... him, I think.  I think he's wedded to the 
> idea of being able to wear pants, but hasn't actually seen any 
> documentation.  He's kind of defensive.

Yeah, just a leetle bit!
>
> It started because of a little potentially-hoax piece going around about 
> testing beer in the 1200s -- those who are curious can go read the genesis 
> and the various comments; the site covers hoaxes of all sorts, not just 
> medieval ones.
>
> http://www.museumofhoaxes.com/hoax/weblog/comments/3072/

That's a page worth bookmarking. Could be fun reading!

Two more points--first of all, I think the "beer test" is more than like a 
load of hooey.

And "I'm in teh SCA, we have to have authentic documentation for 
everything"--does he belong to a different SCA? Cause I don't recall being 
told I HAD to have documentation for anything.

Dianne
>
> -- 
> Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent
>
> A multimillion-dollar ad campaign blames Democrats for the fact that 
> "courtrooms sit empty." In fact, there are now half as many judicial 
> vacancies as when Bush took office. And of the 46 federal judgeships that 
> remain vacant, Bush has named only 16 replacements.  -- Factcheck.org
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for makeup
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Dermatologically speaking. I don't think that this would be a good idea!
Kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lalah" <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 08, 2005 10:00 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for makeup


> Have  you  considered using lipstick for the eyeshadow and gold
> eyeshadow for the lipstick?
> 
> Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender
> --- Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com> wrote:
> From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
> Date: Sat, 7 May 2005 20:34:08 -0400
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for makeup
> On Saturday 07 May 2005 6:33 pm, Dawn wrote:
> > Morning,
> >
> > I hoping some of you theatre people can help with sources for
> unusual
> >  makeup  colors. I need red eyeshadow and gold lipstick. I've
> already been
> >  through  the  chain  pharmacies  and  beauty  supply and the
> mainstream makeup
> >  lines  just don't have these items. I did get a red eyeliner
> from
> >  Wet-n-Wild,  but  they  just  don't  carry the "wild" end of
> things anymore
> > (around here anyway).
> >
> >  I'm  looking  for  a  really  yellow  bright  metallic  gold
> lipstick. What I
> >  can  find  is  either  too  subtle, too brown, or it's clear
> lipgloss. I need
> > opaque in-your-face color.
> >
> > Any suggestions?
> There's  got  to be someplace on the Internet you can buy these
> things, and
> more...
> --
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
> "Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
> _______________________________________________
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>(Of course my biggest problem with the argument is that it's a
>public/mundane forum and the person has said "I'm in the SCA, I'd know.
>We have to have authentic documentation for everything...")

ROFL....    ROFL....  Oh thank you! I needed a good laugh.  Great way to 
start the week.

Now before all the SCA people get their knickers in a twist...  I also 
participate in the SCA, so I  do know what of I speak.

I think your biggest problem is the person, and not that they are in the 
SCA.  Linda has hit the nail on the head when she suggested that the person 
you are debating with actually demonstrate where they got this 
information.   We'd all like to take a look at it and be conviced that 
trousers/pants were indeed a viable option.   But I have a sneaky suspicion 
that no such information will be forthcoming.

Bridgette


Mari Stewart
Webmaster
College of Veterinary Medicine
Cornell University


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M Stewart wrote:

>> (Of course my biggest problem with the argument is that it's a
>> public/mundane forum and the person has said "I'm in the SCA, I'd know.
>> We have to have authentic documentation for everything...")

> Now before all the SCA people get their knickers in a twist...  I also 
> participate in the SCA, so I  do know what of I speak.

Me, too.  I've been doing it since... lordy, it's going to be 22 years 
this fall.  That's why I'm so annoyed/amused that the person is alleging 
high standards.  *Individuals* in the SCA may have higher standards 
(like me, and others on this list) but overall, there isn't much in the 
way of standards at all.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

A multimillion-dollar ad campaign blames Democrats for the fact that 
"courtrooms sit empty." In fact, there are now half as many judicial 
vacancies as when Bush took office. And of the 46 federal judgeships 
that remain vacant, Bush has named only 16 replacements.  -- Factcheck.org
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: looking for makeup
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> I'm looking for a really yellow bright metallic gold lipstick. What I
> can find is either too subtle, too brown, or it's clear lipgloss. I
need
> opaque in-your-face color.
>
> Any suggestions?
> Dawn
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Have you tried KC Costume?  They have a lot of theatrical makeup as
well as costumes & props.

Catherine
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Pierre & Sandy Pettinger" <costumrs@radiks.net>

> There is a Pendleton outlet in Nebraska City, NE., if you're passing thru 
> there.  It's not on the main downtown business street, but a block or two 
> off it.  Lots of people go there, so just ask a local, they can direct 
> you.  I personally have not been there (and live just 45 miles away, go 
> figure!!)  E-mail me privately if you have more questions.


Thanks, Sandy, and others who replied!  I had a feeling there might not be 
much out there (and considering I hope to move to WY before too long, I 
sniffle in anticipation)--I'm really glad to find out there's at least 
SOMETHING!

-E House 

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Diana wrote:

> Not for study but for pure costuming drool-ability....you must see Queen
> Margot.  It is french with english subtitles.  The dresses in the movie
> are to die for!  Just ignore the ones that are fetish/raunchy.  But the
> ones that are supposed to be historical are beautiful.

As I remember it, the men's costumes were very accurate. The women's,
though, were beautiful but not particularly accurate. They were all versions
of the same dress, for one thing, and none of the women wore shifts. I think
that was a decision made on purpose, to show that the court was debauched,
not an oversight. 

Has anyone read the book? It's by Victor Hugo, I think. Or Alexandre Dumas.
One of those two. I wondered if it was as randy as the movie.

Gail Finke

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O.K. As we don't have either, please could I have a *brief* resume of the 
differences between these?

We have "Events" where groups of people dress and behave in as authentic a 
way as possible, fight battles (sometimes for a change the "wrong* side 
wins, but the public aren't supposed to see those!) live in tents. Many of 
them use hand woven fabrics, hand dyed and hand sewn. Others use machines 
where hidden, hand sewn where not. Some groups strive for total accuracy, 
some do not, or so I understand. There are both private events, and ones to 
which the public are admitted.

Then there are "room guardians", costumed interpreters etc., who are 
similar to what I understand your "docents" are - not a word we use at all. 
These always work to the public, as far as I can judge.

Then there are dancers, who also have varying stages of accuracy. Some 
involve the public in dancing, some simply give performances.


And then there is LARP (Live action role play) which can be for real or 
totally fantasy.

Suzi


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From: "Catherine Kinsey" <ckinsey@kumc.edu>
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: SCA v Renfaire
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O.K. As we don't have either, please could I have a *brief* resume of
the 
differences between these?
<snip>
And then there is LARP (Live action role play) which can be for real or

totally fantasy.

Suzi
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.
Brief?  I'll try :).

Both like history, SCA covers a wider range (usually 600-1600), most
but not all renfaires are 16th C.

Renfaire participants are doing this because they enjoy it but as
performers at a rennfaire they are there primarily to entertain others. 
They are usually more active during the run of their local faire but
also go to other faires, sometimes in organized groups.  Costuming
depends on what their role or interest is that year.  

SCA participants are doing this because they enjoy it and primarily to
entertain themselves.  They have events almost every weekend, some with
themes.  You can participate individually or as part of a group both
(informally or more formally as a household).  Your costuming usually
depends on your choice of personna, or in my case, I timetravel with my
wardrobe, ie; whatever era I am interested in researching right now :). 


FYI:  some renfaires have guilds that provide most of the costumed
performers.  Others, like my local faire, have auditions and cast all
their performers new each year.  There are many returning street
characters, and the court usually stays pretty much the same for several
years in a row, but it is all directed by the office.  

How's that :)?
Catherine







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From: Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kingdom of Heaven - tangent
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I think we have all missed something here.  The guy said he has to have authentic documentation for everything.  (Never mind that is a lot of hooey unless you are going for an A & S comp.)  Since he said that, ask him to show it to you.  Inquiring minds want to know.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kingdom of Heaven - tangent

M Stewart wrote:

>> (Of course my biggest problem with the argument is that it's a
>> public/mundane forum and the person has said "I'm in the SCA, I'd know.
>> We have to have authentic documentation for everything...")

> 

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From: "Laurie Swigart" <musicthea@upstagereview.org>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] looking for makeup
Date: Mon, 9 May 2005 10:27:38 -0500
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http://www.bennye.com/

http://www.graftobian.com/index5.htm

http://www.mehron.com/

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lloyd Mitchell
Sent: Monday, May 09, 2005 6:23 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for makeup


Dermatologically speaking. I don't think that this would be a good idea!
Kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lalah" <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 08, 2005 10:00 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for makeup


> Have  you  considered using lipstick for the eyeshadow and gold 
> eyeshadow for the lipstick?
> 
> Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender
> --- Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com> wrote:
> From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
> Date: Sat, 7 May 2005 20:34:08 -0400
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for makeup
> On Saturday 07 May 2005 6:33 pm, Dawn wrote:
> > Morning,
> >
> > I hoping some of you theatre people can help with sources for
> unusual
> >  makeup  colors. I need red eyeshadow and gold lipstick. I've
> already been
> >  through  the  chain  pharmacies  and  beauty  supply and the
> mainstream makeup
> >  lines  just don't have these items. I did get a red eyeliner
> from
> >  Wet-n-Wild,  but  they  just  don't  carry the "wild" end of
> things anymore
> > (around here anyway).
> >
> >  I'm  looking  for  a  really  yellow  bright  metallic  gold
> lipstick. What I
> >  can  find  is  either  too  subtle, too brown, or it's clear
> lipgloss. I need
> > opaque in-your-face color.
> >
> > Any suggestions?
> There's  got  to be someplace on the Internet you can buy these 
> things, and more...
> --
> Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
> "Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: looking for makeup
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I haven't been following this but one person I know (and its a little
expensive) did two things. Both required a goldish base lipstick that was
"sticky" and either stuck gold leaf to the lipstick or dusted it with edible
gold powder.

De

-----Original Message-----
> I'm looking for a really yellow bright metallic gold lipstick. What I
> can find is either too subtle, too brown, or it's clear lipgloss. I
need
> opaque in-your-face color.
>
> Any suggestions?
> Dawn
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Have you tried KC Costume?  They have a lot of theatrical makeup as
well as costumes & props.

Catherine


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Those listmembers who like to redress Barbie dolls in historic costumes
for kids, collectors, themselves, or for the Salvation Army's
Dress-a-Doll projects(like me) and are looking for paler-skinned vinyl
dolls now have a couple of options besides yard and second-hand stores.

Some of the City Style Barbies sold at KayBee Toys and Walgreens have
paler-toned vinyl and or solid-color hair in a natural tone. I scored a
City Style Barbie for $3.50 at my local Walgreens with pale skin and
center-parted brown hair. Prices vary at various Walgreens depending on
how many they have in stock. Even the blue to pink-toned eyeshadow is
not too garish, although a giveaway to historical accuracy unless one is
redressing doll in the Yardley 'Blooming Colors" swinging '60's era.
Well, it beats putting a Elizabethan or 1890's gown on a very-well
tanned basic Barbie dressed for the beach.

There are also the Fashion Fever Barbies, especially Drew and Teresa if
you are willing to pay more and plow through some really wild hair
colors and sometimes vivid makeup screening. Drew is a redhead(or at
least when her hair isn't blue)and always seems cast in a paler vinyl,
as is Teresa(who started out Hispanic and went from dark brunette to
honey blond in the last year).

Cindy Abel


 

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] SCA v Renfaire
Date: Mon, 9 May 2005 13:16:19 -0500
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Sounds like you have Living History reinactors. They expect 100% accuracy in
all aspects of what they are recreating. Nothing mundane is allowed to be
seen by the public when reenacting. Clothing MUST be made of materials know
to have been used during the time period reenacting.
Keeper of the wardrobe, and similar titles,etc., have only a little
similarity to the states "docents".
A "Keeper" is expected to know everything there is about fabrics, sewing
technique, clothing pieces and their names, colors, and sometime even the
regional style differences. All this and probably more so that they may
assist their fellow LHers first so that it is the fellow LHer that informs
the public about that aspect of the reenactment. Docents I believe learn
something so that they can pass it on to the public.
And though I admire the LHers drive for excellence, I prefer the less
pressured SCA.

De


-----Original Message-----
O.K. As we don't have either, please could I have a *brief* resume of the
differences between these?

We have "Events" where groups of people dress and behave in as authentic a
way as possible, fight battles (sometimes for a change the "wrong* side
wins, but the public aren't supposed to see those!) live in tents. Many of
them use hand woven fabrics, hand dyed and hand sewn. Others use machines
where hidden, hand sewn where not. Some groups strive for total accuracy,
some do not, or so I understand. There are both private events, and ones to
which the public are admitted.

Then there are "room guardians", costumed interpreters etc., who are
similar to what I understand your "docents" are - not a word we use at all.
These always work to the public, as far as I can judge.

Then there are dancers, who also have varying stages of accuracy. Some
involve the public in dancing, some simply give performances.


And then there is LARP (Live action role play) which can be for real or
totally fantasy.

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1950s clothing term
Date: Mon, 9 May 2005 07:12:25 -0400
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"Yankee Potroast, maybe, but not the Boiled dinner.  Both as a matter of
fact, were designed to be one pot meals. The first is made with beef and the
second with fresh ham on the bone.  And these became popular with immigrant
families as a way to get a whole meal with little meat.  Not quite the type
to bother about refraining from cooking on the Sabbath.

Kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 07, 2005 6:42 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1950s clothing term


>
> >
> > The  first part sounds more like they're talking about food - a boiled
might
> > be  short for "a boiled dinner" -
> >
> >
> >> That does seem to make more sense from the context.  I believe that
the "New
> >> England boiled dinner" was sometimes made on Saturday, to eat cold on
> >> Sunday, so one did not violate the Sabbath by cooking.
> >
>
> That was my first thought, too, except that I've *never* heard it
> refered to like that. Even my grandparents didn't call it that.
>
> Then there's the term "collation", which is a light meal, something a
> boiled dinner certainly is not.
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Suzi Clarke wrote:
> 
> O.K. As we don't have either, please could I have a *brief* resume of 
> the differences between these?

Well now, in my experience both groups have a lot of overlap, but it's 
the professed purpose which sets them apart. The SCA purports to be a 
sort of historical re-enactment society, with a broad time period (~1000 
ad to ~1600 ad). There are membership 'requirements' for holding office, 
but not for participation in general. Events are completely managed by 
society members (paid or not) and authenticity varies depending on the 
group. The only requirements are "an attempt" at historical clothing. 
There's no enforcement, so you're as likely to see fairy wings and 
vampire teeth as anything else. While the public is not excluded from 
events, they're usually not advertised to either, they tend to be club 
activities, not shows.

Renaissance faires are commercial ventures where a small 'village' is 
built, admission is charged, and shopkeepers (who usually lease their 
space) offer visitors a variety of crafts for sale against the backdrop 
of a late medieval or renaissance period festival (usually 16th cent. 
English). Paid (sometimes) actors entertain the crowds as jousters, 
jugglers, dancers, etc. Much beer is sold. The general public pays the 
admission fee and dresses in costume if they like when they attend, but 
it's not required. Authenticity varies depending on the fair management 
and the standards of the participants (paid actors and general public 
alike). The only costume requirements are those set for the fair 
employees, the public can wear anything, and does.



Dawn

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>Gerard Depardieu in "Cyrano de Bergerac" - bravura performance - made me 
>cry, and my French is not brilliant!!

If you're going along those lines, you might also want to try "Ridicule". 
It's not my period but the costumes seemed pretty good. There's also 
"Beaumarchais l'Insolent", but it's been too long since I saw it and I don't 
remember if the costumes were any good - the movie's good, though!


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Subject: [h-cost] Re:  SCA v Renfaire
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Suzi wrote:
>O.K. As we don't have either, please could I have a *brief* resume of the 
>differences between these?

You'll get lots of opinions on this one :)

I've done both for more than ten years, and here's how I'd summarize it. I think there are two major differences:

(1) SCA events are for group members, entertaining and educating themselves. Renaissance Faires are presentations for the public. 

(2) Different time period: SCA is much broader, running more or less from the Romans to the Renaissance. Renaissance Faires tend to be much more focused and are almost always somewhere in the 16th century.

Other differences: 

- SCA runs all year round, Renaissance Faires are generally presented for one to eight successive weekends most commonly in the summer. 

- SCA has lots of local chapters that meet year round, and not everyone active in the chapters goes to events; Renaissance Faire affiliated groups generally only get together at the Faire (or its workshops), though the same people do return year after year. 

- In the SCA, we are modern people doing medieval stuff; at Renaissance Faire everyone pretends to be a 16th-century person (but only when the Faire is "open" and customers are present, not after closing hours). 

- There are a lot more people in the SCA whose focus is on "making things" (manuscripts, furniture, clothing, books) while more people in Renaissance Faire concentrate on the performing arts (music, dance, drama).

You will notice that I haven't said anything about authenticity here. That's because both groups are extremely variable. Both have individuals and "guilds" or other small groups that try to do things as authentically as possible, and both have people doing what's essentially history-flavored fantasy of their own invention. 

Different regional groups (SCA) or faires often have different "mixes" of the two. For instance, there are two major Renaissance Faires in northern California: one is probably the most historically oriented Renaissance Faire in the U.S. (but still far from completely authentic); the other frankly bills itself as "fantasy" oriented and has many more "elves", "damsels," "dragons" and so forth.

There is often quite a bit of wrangling about whether SCA or RenFaire is "more authentic", and in my opinion it's an unanswerable question because both groups include such a wide variety of people. Generally the authenticity-oriented people in the SCA and the same at Faire get along just fine, once they figure out who each other are. In the same way, people who have other interests in common get along just fine between organizations. Problems sometimes arise when you try to compare people in one organization as a whole with those in the other, since both are so variable that it's hard to make _any_ generalizations stick.

Both have produced some quite good individual costumers, and I think that the serious costumers in both have shared in the generally rising level of knowledge about what people in history actually wore. But I don't think you can generalize from that about what the costuming is like in either group as a whole.

Hope this helps --

____________________________________________________________
0  Chris Laning
|  <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
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I was wondering if anyone knows about Costume & Dressmaker magazine.  I 
found this web site and it appears to be something really interesting.

http://
costumepress.websitesource.net

I would like to purchase all back issues available from them but I seem to 
be having difficulty getting in touch.  Does anyone know anything about 
them?  Are they in fact, no longer?  Any help would be very much appreciated.


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] SCA v Renfaire
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At 13:16 09/05/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>Sounds like you have Living History reinactors. They expect 100% accuracy in
>all aspects of what they are recreating. Nothing mundane is allowed to be
>seen by the public when reenacting. Clothing MUST be made of materials know
>to have been used during the time period reenacting.
>Keeper of the wardrobe, and similar titles,etc., have only a little
>similarity to the states "docents".
>A "Keeper" is expected to know everything there is about fabrics, sewing
>technique, clothing pieces and their names, colors, and sometime even the
>regional style differences. All this and probably more so that they may
>assist their fellow LHers first so that it is the fellow LHer that informs
>the public about that aspect of the reenactment. Docents I believe learn
>something so that they can pass it on to the public.
>And though I admire the LHers drive for excellence, I prefer the less
>pressured SCA.


Yes, we do have Living History people, but I guess standards vary among 
those groups the same as anywhere else. I visit a medieval Faire in the 
summer, and the stall holders are (mostly) dressed in medieval to Tudor 
costumes, and mainly sell "authentic" goods, although some are not as 
"accurate" as others. It is great fun, and I always spend too much!! This 
one is very much open to the Members of the Public (MOP's).

No, the "Keeper" as such, is unknown, I think, although there are ad hoc 
advisors in groups - basically, as far as I can judge, people who have done 
more research than anyone else.

Costumed Interpreters, and "Room Guardians" are people who work usually as 
volunteers, in costume as authentic as possible, in "stately homes" and 
public buildings. They have their costumes made professionally - I do it, 
and Ninya Mikhaila used to do it for Hampton Court. I guess some make their 
own costumes, but I do not hear of them.

Thanks to all of you who have given me definitions - quite fascinating, and 
not quite like anything I have been to. Debbie Lough may have - another 
poster from England.

Suzi


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OFF LIST

Dawn,

I wanted to write you off list.  PLEASE,PLEASE do not send money to these 
people.  They have a really bad reputation.  They will take your money and 
not send the product.  I know many, many people who have sent money to them 
and never received a thing over the years.

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn Luckham" <dluckham@sympatico.ca>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Monday, May 09, 2005 2:59 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Costume & Dressmaker Magazine?


>I was wondering if anyone knows about Costume & Dressmaker magazine.  I 
>found this web site and it appears to be something really interesting.
>
> http://
> costumepress.websitesource.net
>
> I would like to purchase all back issues available from them but I seem to 
> be having difficulty getting in touch.  Does anyone know anything about 
> them?  Are they in fact, no longer?  Any help would be very much 
> appreciated.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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I am so sorry... I did not mean for that message to go across the list. 
Teach me for doing three things at one time.

My apologies again.

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com 


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>>O.K. As we don't have either, please could I have a *brief* resume of the 
>>differences between these?
>
>Well now, in my experience both groups have a lot of overlap, but it's the 
>professed purpose which sets them apart. The SCA purports to be a sort of 
>historical re-enactment society, with a broad time period (~1000 ad to 
>~1600 ad).

I wouldn't call the SCA a re-enactment society, but more of a history club 
with costumed gatherings.  Most of SCA historical research is done on the 
arts and crafts within their broad time/geographical period, followed by 
re-creation of these arts or crafts pieces (or the creation of original 
pieces in the style of the older ones).  Historical events themselves are 
not re-created.

>Renaissance faires are commercial ventures where a small 'village' is 
>built, admission is charged, and shopkeepers (who usually lease their 
>space) offer visitors a variety of crafts for sale against the backdrop of 
>a late medieval or renaissance period festival (usually 16th cent. English).

I'd call Ren. Faire more of a craft fair with historical entertainment, on 
stages as shows with actors (sometimes paid actors), or improvised in the 
streets by volunteer participants.  Sometimes the paying public dresses up 
and 'plays' with the regular participants, with varying degrees of 
authenticity to the period of the Faire (everything from dead-on historical 
re-creations, to modern street clothes, to Klingons and winged faeries).

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
             ////-@@\\\
            ((((   7 )))
             (((  <> ))))
                )   ((((((
           /----\   /---\))

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No need. You probably saved a lot of people from losing money because
they didn't know.
Once an URL is out there, people will look into it.

Onaree

On 5/9/05, Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote:
> I am so sorry... I did not mean for that message to go across the list. 
> Teach me for doing three things at one time.
> 
> My apologies again.
> 
> Penny Ladnier, owner
> The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
> Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
> Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com

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On 5/9/05, Onaree Berard <msberard@gmail.com> wrote:
> No need. You probably saved a lot of people from losing money because
> they didn't know.
> Once an URL is out there, people will look into it.
> 
> Onaree
> 
> On 5/9/05, Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote:
> > I am so sorry... I did not mean for that message to go across the list. 
> > Teach me for doing three things at one time.
> > 
> > My apologies again.
> > 
> > Penny Ladnier, owner
> > The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
> > Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
> > Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
>

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Subject: [h-cost] YIPPEE! Parasols
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This is why I goofed up and didn't send the other message privately.... I do have a good excuse.

I was chatting on IM with our instructor Marna Jean (MJ) the same time I was sending out the message.  MJ made parasols for the Legend of Zorro movie that is coming out in the autumn.  I saw the trailer for the film on Entertainment Tonight last week.  So I sent her a message and two of her parasols are in the trailer.

You can see the trailer at http://movies.yahoo.com/feature/thelegendofzorro.html .  You can see her beige parasol when Catherine Zeta Jones is walking down the street.  A lady beside her on the left is holding MJ's off-white parasol. A couple of frames later, Catherine is talking with a little boy, and another lady is carrying another MJ parasol with fringe on it.

MJ is working on making a webpage showing the Zorro parasols.  You can see the MJ's parasols that she made for the film Cold Mountain at http://shootingstarhistory.com/cwparasols.html .

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com 
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com 
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
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Greetings--

> The only requirements are "an attempt" at historical clothing.
> There's no enforcement, so you're as likely to see fairy wings and
> vampire teeth as anything else. While the public is not excluded from
> events, they're usually not advertised to either, they tend to be club
> activities, not shows.

In actual fact, you're not "as likely to see fairy wings and vampire teeth
as anything else."  It's been a very long time since I've seen either at any
event other than Pennsic, which attracts a decent number of non-SCA
attendees --and even then, it's been in decline. (I think I saw some fairy
wings on a five year old recently--but that doesn't really count :-) While
there is no enforcement at the event level, people who wear the completely
non-period stuff usually get the idea fairly quickly that that's not what's
done in the SCA.

What you will see is wildly varying "attempts"--from clothing straight out
of bad fantasy novels, converted prom dresses, the odd Baroque or Rev War
outfit on a newcomer, or items made from silly prints all the way up through
clothing that would not be out of place in a museum display, including hand
sewing, full sets of underclothing/underpinnings, and extensive research.
The only thing you can say about the SCA's standards is that they vary from
individual to individual.

Susan


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I saw a performance of the play "Cyrano de Bergerac" at ACT in San 
Fransisco, which was even better than the film. As music, they used 
Pachabel's Canon in D, which worked very well.  The play had me weeping 
into a hanky.  Even though I thought, and still think, the characters 
are all blithering idiots, lacking even elementary common sense.

I can't find a recording of "Beaumarchais l'Insolent," I just looked.

I bought, and last night watched, a DVD of Eric Rohmer's "The Lady and 
the Duke."  The film is in French (with English subtitles), and the 
translated title is a bit tacky.  But it is an absolutely gorgeous 
film.  It takes place during the Reign of Terror.  The settings all look 
like paintings, and according to the liner notes many of them _were_ 
painted.  But they really work.  The main character, a real Englishwoman 
called Grace Elliot, wears a different dress for almost every scene, and 
they're great dresses.  OK, so dressing in high style wasn't a bright 
idea during the French Revolution, but still, the costumes are fun to 
look at.  I don't know anything about Grace Elliot (though I suspect 
they mined her memoirs for the film).  But from my rather dim memory of 
my French Revolution history class, they didn't get any events glaringly 
wrong.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com



Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:

>> Gerard Depardieu in "Cyrano de Bergerac" - bravura performance - made 
>> me cry, and my French is not brilliant!!
>
>
> If you're going along those lines, you might also want to try 
> "Ridicule". It's not my period but the costumes seemed pretty good. 
> There's also "Beaumarchais l'Insolent", but it's been too long since I 
> saw it and I don't remember if the costumes were any good - the 
> movie's good, though!
>
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Subject: [h-cost] Vintage looks in modern clothes
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I posted this material on another email list, and though members of this 
list might be interested.

When you are in a situation where you must wear modern
clothes, you can usually tie into some retro or even antique look,
wearing either vintage clothes or modern vintage-inspired looks.
Working backward chronologically:

The 1960s are in, in the form of high-waisted sheath dresses (which I
don't much like but some people do) and in "hippie" inspired
looks--tie dye, bits of crochet or lace artfully applied to T-shirts,
tiered skirts, broomstick skirts, ponchos of all sorts (including
shapes and knit fabrics much more interesting than ponchos of the 60s
and 70s). www.jjill.com carries some nice clothes of this type.

I've been dyeing a lot of knit shirts and camisoles of various styles,
with dyes and garments bought at www.dharmatrading.com. No tie
dye--I've been doing solids so far, in the washer. I am, however,
working up to mixing my own colors and then I will try doing ombre.
Ombre is not only in fashion, I've always loved the way it looks. I'm
also decorating my dyed knit tops with photocopy transfers of antique
fashion plates, and with little odd bits of lace I haven't been able
to use for anything else. Patchwork per se has not come back in yet
but I'm betting it will.

The 1950s are in, in the form of circle skirts, cashmere sweaters,
twin sets, embroidered wool or cashmere sweaters, beaded cashmere
sweaters, and mink stoles. eBay always lists lots of these items.
Waarm weather is the time to buy vintage furs cheap. I've been buying
the little fox and mink shoulder stoles (which I think are more from
the 1960s), and the long straight stoles of, I think, the 1970s.
Furs, BTW, deteriorate more rapidly than many fabrics, so a pre-1950
fur may not be what you want.

The 1930s are in, in the form of high-waisted cap-sleeved thin blouses
and dresses. www.maxstudio.com has some absolutely charming tops.

The 1920s are in, to some extent. I particularly like the designs of
Rebecca Taylor. I've bought some great silk tunic tops and camisoles
of hers. You can buy her designs discounted at www.bluefly.com (which
has a huge selection, and I also love them for ponchos and cashmere
sweaters) and www.shoplastyle.com. Many designers are doing tiered,
floaty miniskirts. I like the asymmetry of many of them--asymmetry is
in--though I've never cared for minis per se.

The circa 1900 look is sort of in, in the form of little crocheted
capelets that are almost exactly like the big bertha collars of that
period. I just got one in the mail. I can wear it as a capelet, and
then when it goes out of style I can put it on a reproduction dress. I
can bring out some huge original collars I have and wear them as
modern capelets, and then later use them as antique collars again.

There's always wearable art. I've been buying some skirts from a site
called www.artfulwears.com. The line I like most is, unfortunately,
available only in synthetics, but it's also much less expensive than
it would be in dupioni (which is what I think they should be using).
It includes long 1880s-ish bustle-y styles, and long cargo skirts with
side "barrels" reminiscent of the late 1910s.

And, you can make your own. I've been making skirts out of vintage
embroidered tablecloths. A ton of these are available, from the 1940s
into the 1960s (as are tons of damask, striped, retro-printed, and
other tablecloths). I've always used linens as a great source of
hand-embroidered fabric for historic reproductions, and I've always
cut them up and concealed their origins as much as possible.

Now I'm making modern skirts, and I don't care if they look like
tablecloths as long as they look good. I've been making them to look
modern and usually asymmetrical, but I also rely heavily on 1880s
overskirts for inspiration. Square, rectangular, circular, and oval
tablecloths are all suitable; each gives a different look. I just cut
a hole across for the waist and down for an opening, put the cloth on
a dress form, and start draping and pleating. (Well, actually, I do
some experimentation on the form before cutting the opening, because
it is not necessarily centered.) Then, of course, I add a waistband,
a placket, and fasteners. It's an easy way to produce a really
beautiful skirt. Choosing the tablecloth with the right decoration is
a large part of success.

1910s style straight camisoles (and longer tunic variations) are also
in. When I have matching runners and/or napkins I use them to make
tops.

One thing is, I never get rid of any clothes of high quality (and I
try to acquire no other kind), whether I made or bought them. In the
Edwardian-inspired period of the 1980s, I wore Ralph Lauren long tweed
skirts and jackets to work every day (as a senior editor for a book
publisher), together with real Edwardian white blouses and
huge-brimmed hats. I still have it all--not only the antique items,
but the Ralph Lauren. Someday I'll be able to wear it again as fashion
clothes. Right now I'm pulling out hand-crocheted tops I bought at
crafts fairs in the 1970s. They're back in again.

On the other hand, I never buy or wear anything I don't like. I've
bought a ton of clothes since last fall, but there was a period of
five or six years when I bought almost none. Everything seemed to be
black or charcoal gray, and either a suit or a miniskirt. I just
ignored it all. I wore what I already had, and I sewed or bought
vintage when I needed something I didn't have. When the current retro
phase goes out of style, I'll do that again.

This strategy means I have to store a lot of stuff. But it also means
I've dressed retro most of my life without necessarily raising
eyebrows in the street.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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Subject: [h-cost] Dressmaking Dummy Question
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Some friends and I want to make dressmaking dummies - probably the foam filled plaster bandage kind.

Since you're supposed to measure over the appropriate support garments, what do you wear when having your body cast done?  I mean, one of the dresses I want is a self supporting cote.  After nursing 2 children there's a definite difference in where my bust is with and without a bra on.

If I have the dummy made with a bra on, how would I be able to fit a cote?  If I have the dummy made with bust approaching my waist, how do I raise it as it should be by the gown/corset/etc?

Thanks
Julie

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Penny and List

I've decided to reply on list so that anyone else who needs to know this 
bit of info will have the benefit.  I did try a search on this subject in 
the archives before I queried and was not able to find any mention of this 
at all.

Thank you so much for the fair warning.  I can't tell you how much I 
appreciate your kind advice.  It is REALLY too bad as the listed articles 
look great.

Dawn

		>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

I wanted to write you off list. PLEASE,PLEASE do not send money to these 
people. They have a really bad reputation. They will take your money and 
not send the product. I know many, many people who have sent money to them 
and never received a thing over the years.



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Just a bit of trivia.
A Faire in the middle ages and renaissance usually, like 98% of the time,
meant a gathering of people to show and sell livestock. Example: a State
Fair
A Festival was a gathering for a particular holiday or celebration. Example:
Mardi Gras
This is why I get a little tickled when they call it a renaissance "faire".
:)

De



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Date: Mon, 9 May 2005 18:32:27 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dressmaking Dummy Question
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     If the cote is anything like Robin Netherton's gothic fitted gown
(you say it's self-supporting) I don't think you can do it justice
with a dummy.  You need to see how the fabric behaves on your body,
which means you need to fit with the actual fabric.

     A corset is different.  If you have the dummy made over a corset,
then you should be able to fit it that way.  A corset tends to harden
the body into a solid shape, whereas the gothic fitted gown works
with a soft, natural body.

     -Carol


> Some friends and I want to make dressmaking dummies - probably the foam
> filled plaster bandage kind.
>
> Since you're supposed to measure over the appropriate support garments,
> what do you wear when having your body cast done?  I mean, one of the
> dresses I want is a self supporting cote.  After nursing 2 children
> there's a definite difference in where my bust is with and without a bra
> on.
>
> If I have the dummy made with a bra on, how would I be able to fit a cote?
>  If I have the dummy made with bust approaching my waist, how do I raise
> it as it should be by the gown/corset/etc?
>
> Thanks
> Julie

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Date: Mon, 09 May 2005 13:41:19 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] SCA v Renfaire
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>Costumed Interpreters, and "Room Guardians" are people who work usually as 
>volunteers, in costume as authentic as possible, in "stately homes" and 
>public buildings. They have their costumes made professionally

Here these people are usually called docents, and there is a wide range of 
variation in their costumes.  Some only want to look "old-timey", and they 
make do (late 1800s) with long sleeved white blouses with some lace on 
them, long skirts, and straw hats with flowers on them.  Others use some 
pattern that claims to be historically based.  Others may have their 
costumes made professionally but I think the usual way is for the docent to 
pay for these.  I think it's the rare docent here who gets to have costumes 
provided.

At one site, where I used to docent, all the participants made their own 
costumes.  They were mostly "old-timey" till one of the docents, using 
money provided by the site, made some more historical-looking costumes for 
the rangers and staff.  I made my own costumes for there, corsets and all, 
but felt that I had to dress simply so I didn't clash with what everyone 
else was wearing.

At another site, where I still docent, they hired a professional historical 
seamstress to make all the historical costumes, until she died.  After that 
they ordered the costumes from some catalog, corsets and all.  A new crop 
of docents came in with a Ren. Faire/Dickens' Faire background, and we had 
to argue the ranger in charge of the program (who had no costuming 
background and who loved her catalog costume) into letting us make our own 
costumes.  Oddly, the argument that we would be saving the program hundreds 
of dollars wasn't the one that worked.  We had to show up fully costumed 
before she would believe we knew what we were doing.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
             ////-@@\\\
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             (((  <> ))))
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon May  9 19:09:43 2005
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Redressing dolls
Date: Mon, 09 May 2005 23:07:10 +0000
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A couple of questions on redressing dolls.  Sounds interesting.  First, why dress a doll that small?  Second, why vinyl?  and for that matter, why pale-skinned?  Is there a certain trend or reason for these criteria?  

(lapsing poetic)...When I was young, a local bank used to have a dress-a-doll-thing they did at Christmas.  Everyone who participated would get a doll (I think they had "blank" dolls people would just buy one -- seems to me they were in the 16-22" variety?) and then they would make costumes/clothing for them.  Then they would be given away at Christmas.  I remember once going to the bank on a Saturday (banks weren't open on Saturday back then) and every available space had dressed up dolls in it, the whole bank.  Of course, at that time of year you get a lot of Victorian stuff and cloaks/winter capes and mufflers. It was awsome!  

SKneeland
-------------- Original message -------------- 

> 
> Those listmembers who like to redress Barbie dolls in historic costumes 
> for kids, collectors, themselves, or for the Salvation Army's 
> Dress-a-Doll projects(like me) and are looking for paler-skinned vinyl 
> dolls now have a couple of options besides yard and second-hand stores. 
> 
> Some of the City Style Barbies sold at KayBee Toys and Walgreens have 
> paler-toned vinyl and or solid-color hair in a natural tone. I scored a 
> City Style Barbie for $3.50 at my local Walgreens with pale skin and 
> center-parted brown hair. Prices vary at various Walgreens depending on 
> how many they have in stock. Even the blue to pink-toned eyeshadow is 
> not too garish, although a giveaway to historical accuracy unless one is 
> redressing doll in the Yardley 'Blooming Colors" swinging '60's era. 
> Well, it beats putting a Elizabethan or 1890's gown on a very-well 
> tanned basic Barbie dressed for the beach. 
> 
> There are also the Fashion Fever Barbies, especially Drew and Teresa if 
> you are willing to pay more and plow through some really wild hair 
> colors and sometimes vivid makeup screening. Drew is a redhead(or at 
> least when her hair isn't blue)and always seems cast in a paler vinyl, 
> as is Teresa(who started out Hispanic and went from dark brunette to 
> honey blond in the last year). 
> 
> Cindy Abel 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] SCA v Renfaire
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I tell people that one of the Big Differences -- a Ren Faire is a spectator
sport whereas the SCA is a "participant sport."

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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>A Faire in the middle ages and renaissance usually, like 98% of the time,
>meant a gathering of people to show and sell livestock. Example: a State
>Fair
>A Festival was a gathering for a particular holiday or celebration. Example:
>Mardi Gras
>This is why I get a little tickled when they call it a renaissance "faire".
>:)

Don't think Medieval Market Faire, think modern craft fair, and you'll feel 
better.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Date: Mon, 9 May 2005 20:50:06 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carol Kocian <aquazoo@patriot.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Redressing dolls
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>A couple of questions on redressing dolls.  Sounds interesting. 
>First, why dress a doll that small?

      I've seen porcelain dolls available that are even smaller. 
Something about miniature things is fun!

>Second, why vinyl?

      It's a Barbie doll!  They're easy to find, and each one will be 
the same dress size as the next one.  It's not for absolute historic 
accuracy.  Doll making is fun, but not everyone wants to make every 
doll that they dress.

>and for that matter, why pale-skinned?

      In spite of the vinyl thing, there is a certain fashionable 
asthetic.  Tans were not popular until the 20thC.  What I understood 
from the original post is that most "white" Barbies are tanned.  And 
aside from that doofy, wide-eyed grinning expression, the idea is to 
make the Barbie look like a painting of whatever era.

>Is there a certain trend or reason for these criteria?

      Speaking of porcelain, my mother was making porcelain dolls for 
a while.  Most of the molds available are late 19thC.  I wanted 
something earlier, 1830 - 50.  While I saw them in doll magazines, 
she could not track down anyone who had the mold.  Porcelain dolls 
really didn't come in until the 19thC.  I have a few dolls made from 
a modern mold, however, which worked out rather well for historic 
dress.  They look like little porcelain people, not historic dolls.

      My favorite was a fairy mold that someone had.  I thought it 
would be wonderful with Wedgewood porcelain - blue, green, or black. 
The owner was afraid that would stain the mold, so I got them tinted 
with colors in the painting process instead.

      -Carol
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Vintage looks in modern clothes
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> I posted this material on another email list, and though members of this
>  list might be interested.
>
> When you are in a situation where you must wear modern
> clothes, you can usually tie into some retro or even antique look,
> wearing either vintage clothes or modern vintage-inspired looks.
>

Thanks, Fran, good stuff. I'll be saving this post.   Kitty


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Redressing dolls
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>>A couple of questions on redressing dolls.  Sounds interesting. First, 
>>why dress a doll that small?
>
>      I've seen porcelain dolls available that are even smaller. Something 
> about miniature things is fun!

Because, among other things that Barbie has, there are patterns in that 
size.  And you can find Barbies by the dozen, really cheap, in almost any 
thrift store.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Thank you Dawn.  I like that you explain this well without being  snide
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Thank you Dawn for keeping on subject and  not making snide demeaning 
remarks.  
Each holds a place in re-enactment.
 
Patrice
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Sheryl Nance-Durst <sherylnd@kc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: looking for makeup
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Oh, I didn't realize Dawn was here in Kansas City.
If KC Costume doesn't have it, try US Toy at 103rd and
State Line. Their costume and magic shop has a good
line of theatrical and clown makeups.  That's where
I got my Mehron facepaints.

Sheryl N-D

At 08:15 AM 5/9/05 -0500, you wrote:
> > I'm looking for a really yellow bright metallic gold lipstick. What I
> > can find is either too subtle, too brown, or it's clear lipgloss. I
>need
> > opaque in-your-face color.
> >
> > Any suggestions?
> > Dawn
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>Have you tried KC Costume?  They have a lot of theatrical makeup as
>well as costumes & props.
>
>Catherine



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Subject: [h-cost] Finally! My copy of MC&T
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FYI; I just received this email from B&N tonight:

----------  Forwarded Message  ----------

Subject: Your Barnes & Noble.com Order #BN67960988
Date: Monday 09 May 2005 8:26 pm
From: service@barnesandnoble.com
To: cathy@thyrsus.com

Dear Catherine Raymond,

Thank you for shopping with us.

Your order is now packed and ready to leave our warehouse.  The details of
 your order appear below.  Within 24 hours of receiving this email, you may
 track the delivery status of your order at
 http://wwwapps.ups.com/ietracking/tracking.cgi?tracknum=1Z1812530330941939&I
ATA=us&Lang=eng.
[snip]

The following is packed and ready to leave our warehouse:

Bill To: Catherine Raymond
Ship To: Catherine Raymond, 6 Karen Drive, Malvern, PA  19355

   QTY        PRICE  TITLE   SHIP DATE
------------------------------------------------------------------------
     1       $28.76  Medieval Clothing and Textiles 1
                     ISBN:1843831236      May 09, 2005
------------------------------------------------------------------------
[snip]
-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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Replies to various...

> 
> There's got to be someplace on the Internet you can buy these things, and 
> more...

You'd think. :) I spent three days in February scouring the internet 
before giving up. Lots of makeup, not the colours I want.

Thanks to everyone for the brand name suggestions. I'd found Kryolan in 
my previous search, they have (or had) the red eyeshadow, but the price 
is a real killer for me. ($14.95 plus shipping) I'm already over budget 
on this costume.

The gold powder suggestions really give me ideas. I think I can find 
gold leaf easier than I can find gold lipstick.

 > try US Toy at 103rd and State Line.

If their hours didn't suck I'd have been there already. :)  They're next 
on my list of places to look, though.



Dawn



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From: "Becky @ SewingCity.com" <becky@sewingcity.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: costume & dressmaker mag.
Date: Mon, 9 May 2005 21:21:22 -0700
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That's really too bad that this turned out to be such a scam.  I have been
thinking about creating a publication, possibly bi-monthly, that would be
appealing to costumers.  There is a growing interest in costuming, and there
are very few resources out there that are compiled into one reliable source.
It seems like there are enough people (even just on this e-list) that could
provide articles.  Would you pay $12-15 per year for 6 issues of a magazine
of this type?  That would cover some printing costs.  Targeted advertisers
could offset the rest.

It looks like the attempt by this company included articles as well as
advertising.  I am not sure what they printed it on - is there anyone out
there that actually has a copy I could borrow?

Becky
http://www.sewingcity.com


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Date: Mon, 9 May 2005 21:20:32 -0700
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Kingdom of Heaven - tangent
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At 3:48 PM -0400 5/8/05, Linda Rice wrote:
>Hi~!
>
>I don't know of any hard evidence for pants in England in the 12th 
>century. We do know that some
>Viking cultures had pants (Thorsbjerg, for example) but we aren't 
>even sure about a lot of details

Sorry for jumping on one of my pet bugaboos, but the Thorsbjerg pants 
(and others in the same type-group, such as the Damendorf trousers) 
date roughly to the first couple of centuries CE and can't really be 
called "Viking", even stretching the term seriously.

Heather
-- 
--
Heather Rose Jones
heather.jones@earthlink.net
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Finally! My copy of MC&T
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congrats to both of us, then, because I came home to a virtually 
identical message!  My victory yell could have awakened the neighborhood!
--sue, doing a happy dance ;-D

Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:

> FYI; I just received this email from B&N tonight:
> 
> ----------  Forwarded Message  ----------
> 
> Subject: Your Barnes & Noble.com Order #BN67960988
> Date: Monday 09 May 2005 8:26 pm
> From: service@barnesandnoble.com
> To: cathy@thyrsus.com
> 
> Dear Catherine Raymond,
> 
> Thank you for shopping with us.
> 
> Your order is now packed and ready to leave our warehouse.  The details of
>  your order appear below.  Within 24 hours of receiving this email, you may
>  track the delivery status of your order at
>  http://wwwapps.ups.com/ietracking/tracking.cgi?tracknum=1Z1812530330941939&I
> ATA=us&Lang=eng.
> [snip]
> 
> The following is packed and ready to leave our warehouse:
> 
> Bill To: Catherine Raymond
> Ship To: Catherine Raymond, 6 Karen Drive, Malvern, PA  19355
> 
>    QTY        PRICE  TITLE   SHIP DATE
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>      1       $28.76  Medieval Clothing and Textiles 1
>                      ISBN:1843831236      May 09, 2005
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> [snip]

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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: costume & dressmaker mag.
Date: Mon, 9 May 2005 22:39:58 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I have a copy or two I could send you.  It wasnt really a scam.  I knew 
the woman who published the magazine and she was really trying hard to 
make a go of this business.  I'm sorry  she had such difficulties and 
things turned out so badly for so many.

Sylrog

On May 9, 2005, at 10:21 PM, Becky @ SewingCity.com wrote:

> That's really too bad that this turned out to be such a scam.  I have 
> been
> thinking about creating a publication, possibly bi-monthly, that would 
> be
> appealing to costumers.  There is a growing interest in costuming, and 
> there
> are very few resources out there that are compiled into one reliable 
> source.
> It seems like there are enough people (even just on this e-list) that 
> could
> provide articles.  Would you pay $12-15 per year for 6 issues of a 
> magazine
> of this type?  That would cover some printing costs.  Targeted 
> advertisers
> could offset the rest.
>
> It looks like the attempt by this company included articles as well as
> advertising.  I am not sure what they printed it on - is there anyone 
> out
> there that actually has a copy I could borrow?
>
> Becky
> http://www.sewingcity.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 302
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Okay a brief syopsis from a dedicated SCAer and REN faire atendee
 
SCA is aimed at re-creating history and preserving a way of ding things.. Ie tablet weaviing, bardic circles etc..... the goal is to research history.....
 
Ren Faire= A fop Version of SCA very entertaining and not really historical and does not claim to be....
 
I really enjoy both! I get to learn History and do research for SCA and at Ren Faire I get to "Let my hair Down and have Fun For funs sake! And most people I know who vend at SCA events also Vend at REN Faire.   The Prices are generally cheaper at SCA events than ren Faire not always but Generally....   
 

Ps I have recently seen fairy wings at our Local shire meetings..... Vamp teeth not sice I married and moved......But they do exhist in sca mostly these things are teens in the local group I belong to .. but kidswill be kids..... 
 
I personally like keeping these different... but I treat it like school Classes I do historical research for an assignment in one class... SCA...
 
Play in the other class as if its a gym or art class... Faire.... Odd analogy but it works for me..... 
 
Both groups have Pluses and minuses... and both are entertaining and fun depending on your interests.....
 
 
Satine.... 
 
Back to lurking

		
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Mail
 Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue May 10 02:03:38 2005
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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Becky,

I don't mean to be the bearer of bad news, but I have seen four costume 
publications shut down over the past 9 years.  All were really good 
publications, but printing is very expensive.  Especially when it comes to 
color print.

I think some of the problems is that advertisers have lost faith in the 
magazines for historic costume because of the four magazines that stopped 
publication.  Advertisers is where you get the money for the backbone of the 
business.

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com 


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From: "Becky @ SewingCity.com" <becky@sewingcity.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Costume Magazines
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-----Original Message-----
>I don't mean to be the bearer of bad news, but I have seen four costume 
>publications shut down over the past 9 years.  All were really good 
>publications, but printing is very expensive.  Especially when it comes to 
>color print.


Very practical advice, thank you.  I think that the reason the magazines
didn't make it was that a proper analysis for the business wasn't done.
Sure, it's a great idea in theory, but you have to look at all the expenses
involved, and be ready to make an investment of not only time, but money as
well.  This would include not only printing costs, but shipping costs, costs
to reimburse contributors, advertising monies, and other expenses.  I think
one has to look further than the printing press costs.


>I think some of the problems is that advertisers have lost faith in the 
>magazines for historic costume because of the four magazines that stopped 
>publication.  Advertisers is where you get the money for the backbone of
>the business.

One thing that could be done initially is to offer free or reduced-price
advertising for an issue or two, so that advertisers could get a feel for
the audience response. Also, have in the bank a year's worth of articles for
magazine content.

I think the worst part about the Costume Press is that they are still
offering issues for sale.  This is very misleading and poor business
practice.  They should have taken the website down a long time ago.

I will continue looking into this venture to see what type of investment it
will require, marketing, etc., and I'll post something if I can get it off
the ground. 

Thanks for your feedback,
Becky
http://www.sewingcity.com


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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <200505100709.j4A79w6e050815@net.indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume Magazines
Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 03:49:36 -0400
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Becky,

Two of the magazines were a part of large magazine publishing corporations. 
They offered the get a free issue or two.  I am sure they did their 
homework.  I just remembered another costume/vintage fashion magazine that 
shut down... so that is five now. I know they had one or two issues.  With 
the two corp. magazines, their annual subscription rates were very high.

I offer the advice because I watch magazines that are being published 
because I studied fashion publishing in college.  It is a hobby of mine to 
watch who is doing well and who is not AND why.

You really need to look at the demographics and see what target groups spend 
money.  Also look what time periods do people send money on... some groups 
spend very little.  Each one of these magazines targeted certain audiences. 
Study more into why these magazines failed and only one stayed around for a 
while.  Look at why they were successful.   My background is in fashion 
marketing and merchandising.  I have fun following all the demographics. 
Boring to some, but very interesting to me!

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume Magazines
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Greetings--

> Two of the magazines were a part of large magazine publishing
corporations.
> They offered the get a free issue or two.  I am sure they did their
> homework.  I just remembered another costume/vintage fashion magazine that
> shut down... so that is five now. I know they had one or two issues.  With
> the two corp. magazines, their annual subscription rates were very high.

This is one reason I think the Medieval Costume and Textiles journal has a
shot at succeeding where the others haven't.  For one thing, they didn't aim
too high (as in they didn't try for a quarterly or monthly) or at the wrong
group.  The academic book market is already a fairly small market, but one
Boydell and Brewer already serves and has done well in.  An academic journal
is also not expected to pay for iteself in advertising or newstand sales.
Plus, each of these volumes will stand quite well on their own as books.

I honestly think it would be fairly difficult for any good costume
publication to survive without the backing of a professional organization or
as primarily a moneymaking venture.  It's very much a niche market, and one
that seems to disseminate information through several individual groups with
particular specialties--often using informal methods or direct contact of
teachers with interested students.  There are people who are interested in
costume throughout history, and things such as CostumeCon, but it seems a
lot more common to have a specialty and to interact primarily with others
with similar specialties.  The Internet has also made direct sharing of
information a lot easier.

Susan

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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
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References: <5.1.1.6.2.20050509172837.00b64c68@pop8.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: costume & dressmaker mag.
Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 08:04:18 -0400
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I subscribed at the time this mag began.  It took over two years to get 4
issues!  So much for a year's subscription.  I did not find the material
given or reviewed to be of any significance.  The photography was
amateurish.

Kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn Luckham" <dluckham@sympatico.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, May 09, 2005 5:38 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: costume & dressmaker mag.


> Penny and List
>
> I've decided to reply on list so that anyone else who needs to know this
> bit of info will have the benefit.  I did try a search on this subject in
> the archives before I queried and was not able to find any mention of this
> at all.
>
> Thank you so much for the fair warning.  I can't tell you how much I
> appreciate your kind advice.  It is REALLY too bad as the listed articles
> look great.
>
> Dawn
>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
> I wanted to write you off list. PLEASE,PLEASE do not send money to these
> people. They have a really bad reputation. They will take your money and
> not send the product. I know many, many people who have sent money to them
> and never received a thing over the years.
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: costume & dressmaker mag.
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I do, you can contact me off list.
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Becky @ SewingCity.com" <becky@sewingcity.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 10, 2005 12:21 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: costume & dressmaker mag.


> That's really too bad that this turned out to be such a scam.  I have been
> thinking about creating a publication, possibly bi-monthly, that would be
> appealing to costumers.  There is a growing interest in costuming, and
there
> are very few resources out there that are compiled into one reliable
source.
> It seems like there are enough people (even just on this e-list) that
could
> provide articles.  Would you pay $12-15 per year for 6 issues of a
magazine
> of this type?  That would cover some printing costs.  Targeted advertisers
> could offset the rest.
>
> It looks like the attempt by this company included articles as well as
> advertising.  I am not sure what they printed it on - is there anyone out
> there that actually has a copy I could borrow?
>
> Becky
> http://www.sewingcity.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: costume & dressmaker mag.
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OK, here's my 2 cents worth (and we all know how far 2 cents goes these days).  Costume is a HUGE field.  I love this list because it covers all historical periods, but it isn't enough for someone like me who also does Sci Fi  and other stuff (right now, a couple of monsters for a friend's indy movie).  If the magazine were designed to cover ALL costuming I would subscribe in a heartbeat.  Needless to say, you would not expect everything covered in every issue, but getting help and suggestions for everything from Halloween to Queen Elizabeth with a bit of movie magic thrown in would be worth the forty or fifty dollars a year for twelve issues.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- "Becky @ SewingCity.com" <becky@sewingcity.com> wrote:

From: "Becky @ SewingCity.com" <becky@sewingcity.com>
Date: Mon, 9 May 2005 21:21:22 -0700
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: costume & dressmaker mag.

That's really too bad that this turned out to be such a scam.  I have been
thinking about creating a publication, possibly bi-monthly, that would be
appealing to costumers.  There is a growing interest in costuming, and there
are very few resources out there that are compiled into one reliable source.
It seems like there are enough people (even just on this e-list) that could
provide articles.  Would you pay $12-15 per year for 6 issues of a magazine
of this type?  That would cover some printing costs.  Targeted advertisers
could offset the rest.

It looks like the attempt by this company included articles as well as
advertising.  I am not sure what they printed it on - is there anyone out
there that actually has a copy I could borrow?

Becky
http://www.sewingcity.com


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue May 10 09:28:54 2005
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Finally! My copy of MC&T
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Lucky you two!  B & N cancelled my order so I have to buy the high price one.  I won't buy it from B & N though.  They are off my "favorites" list for good!!!

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote:

From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
Date: Mon, 09 May 2005 22:33:45 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Finally! My copy of MC&T

congrats to both of us, then, because I came home to a virtually 
identical message!  My victory yell could have awakened the neighborhood!
--sue, doing a happy dance ;-D

Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:

> FYI; I just received this email from B&N tonight:
> 
> ----------  Forwarded Message  ----------
> 
> Subject: Your Barnes & Noble.com Order #BN67960988
> Date: Monday 09 May 2005 8:26 pm
> From: service@barnesandnoble.com
> To: cathy@thyrsus.com
> 
> Dear Catherine Raymond,
> 
> Thank you for shopping with us.
> 
> Your order is now packed and ready to leave our warehouse.  The details of
>  your order appear below.  Within 24 hours of receiving this email, you may
>  track the delivery status of your order at
>  http://wwwapps.ups.com/ietracking/tracking.cgi?tracknum=1Z1812530330941939&I
> ATA=us&Lang=eng.
> [snip]
> 
> The following is packed and ready to leave our warehouse:
> 
> Bill To: Catherine Raymond
> Ship To: Catherine Raymond, 6 Karen Drive, Malvern, PA  19355
> 
>    QTY        PRICE  TITLE   SHIP DATE
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>      1       $28.76  Medieval Clothing and Textiles 1
>                      ISBN:1843831236      May 09, 2005
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> [snip]

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue May 10 09:38:52 2005
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Organization: Medieval Hats: http://www.virtue.to
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Subject: [h-cost] 2,000 year old UK shoe found
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http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/england/somerset/4530905.stm  -- go 
there for pictures; here's the text:

Iron Age shoe unearthed at quarry
	
A shoe thought to be at least 2,000 years old, and the oldest in the UK, 
has been dug up at an English quarry.

The Iron Age relic was found in a hollowed tree trunk at Whiteball 
Quarry, near Wellington, Somerset.

Archaeologists say the shoe is the equivalent of a size 10 and is so 
well-preserved that stitch and lace holes are still visible in the leather.

It has been sent for conservation to Wiltshire and should be displayed 
at Royal Albert Memorial Museum, Exeter.

A team from Exeter Archaeology, led by Stephen Reed, unearthed the shoe 
when they were excavating at Town Farm, Burlescombe.

"What we have now found is a Bronze Age 'industrial' site consisting of 
two mounds of burnt stone - dated to 1460 to 1290 BC - and two 
water-filled troughs," he said.

"Close by were two timber-built wells, preserved by waterlogging and 
probably dating from the early part of the Iron Age."

One of the wells was constructed over a spring using a hollowed tree 
trunk set into the ground. The tree trunk was removed from the site so 
that its contents could be examined under laboratory conditions.

'Oldest shoe'

The "truly remarkable" discovery of the shoe was made when this was 
being undertaken by the Wiltshire Conservation Centre.

"As far as we know, this is the oldest shoe ever found in the UK," Mr 
Reed said.

"The shoe measures approximately 30cm, equivalent to a modern size nine 
or 10, perhaps suggesting its owner was male.

"The reason for its presence in the well or spring is a mystery."

It is hoped examination of the shoe will shed light on the method of its 
construction and identify the animal from which the leather was derived.

Quarry owners Hanson are working with archaeologists from Exeter 
Archaeology, Devon County Council and English Heritage, as well as other 
specialists, to ensure that all the finds from the site are properly 
recorded and treated.

It is hoped, following conservation, that the timbers and shoe will form 
the central feature of the proposed expansion of the archaeology 
galleries at the Royal Albert Memorial Museum in Exeter.


-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

A multimillion-dollar ad campaign blames Democrats for the fact that 
"courtrooms sit empty." In fact, there are now half as many judicial 
vacancies as when Bush took office. And of the 46 federal judgeships 
that remain vacant, Bush has named only 16 replacements.  -- Factcheck.org
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: costume & dressmaker mag.
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Quoting "Becky @ SewingCity.com" <becky@sewingcity.com>:

> That's really too bad that this turned out to be such a scam.  I have been
> thinking about creating a publication, possibly bi-monthly, that would be
> appealing to costumers.  There is a growing interest in costuming, and there
> are very few resources out there that are compiled into one reliable source.
> It seems like there are enough people (even just on this e-list) that could
> provide articles.  Would you pay $12-15 per year for 6 issues of a magazine
> of this type?  That would cover some printing costs.  Targeted advertisers
> could offset the rest.
>
> It looks like the attempt by this company included articles as well as
> advertising.  I am not sure what they printed it on - is there anyone out
> there that actually has a copy I could borrow?

Becky, there's already been some chatter on the list about this ...

this is the sort of magazine that Taunton Press publishes (Threads, Fine
Woodworking, Fine Gardening etc.)  (no, I have no connection to them)

Wonder how they'd take to a proposal of this sort?

Susan (who would pay ...)


-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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From: Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Finally! My copy of MC&T
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I was so annoyed that I wrote B & N/ and told them.  It took about five minutes to get the following reply.
  
<<Dear Customer,

Thank you for your inquiry regarding order #BN68031064.

We are pleased to confirm that the cancelled item you had ordered, is
now available.  If you still would like to receive this item, you can
place a new order at www.bn.com.  If you wish, we are happy to do this
for you.  Simply respond to this email with your permission to charge
your credit card for the item. We will honor the original price of the
book>>

So if any of you that got cancelled have your original order number, write them and see if you can get the same deal.  
 
Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com> wrote:

From: Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 06:28:09 -0700 (PDT)
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Finally! My copy of MC&T

Lucky you two!  B & N cancelled my order so I have to buy the high price one.  I won't buy it from B & N though.  They are off my "favorites" list for good!!!

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote:

From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
Date: Mon, 09 May 2005 22:33:45 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Finally! My copy of MC&T

congrats to both of us, then, because I came home to a virtually 
identical message!  My victory yell could have awakened the neighborhood!
--sue, doing a happy dance ;-D

Catherine Olanich Raymond wrote:

> FYI; I just received this email from B&N tonight:
> 
> ----------  Forwarded Message  ----------
> 
> Subject: Your Barnes & Noble.com Order #BN67960988
> Date: Monday 09 May 2005 8:26 pm
> From: service@barnesandnoble.com
> To: cathy@thyrsus.com
> 
> Dear Catherine Raymond,
> 
> Thank you for shopping with us.
> 
> Your order is now packed and ready to leave our warehouse.  The details of
>  your order appear below.  Within 24 hours of receiving this email, you may
>  track the delivery status of your order at
>  http://wwwapps.ups.com/ietracking/tracking.cgi?tracknum=1Z1812530330941939&I
> ATA=us&Lang=eng.
> [snip]
> 
> The following is packed and ready to leave our warehouse:
> 
> Bill To: Catherine Raymond
> Ship To: Catherine Raymond, 6 Karen Drive, Malvern, PA  19355
> 
>    QTY        PRICE  TITLE   SHIP DATE
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>      1       $28.76  Medieval Clothing and Textiles 1
>                      ISBN:1843831236      May 09, 2005
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> [snip]

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Redressing dolls
Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 10:18:56 -0500
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
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Status: RO

 

 You wrote

A couple of questions on redressing dolls.  Sounds interesting.  First,
why dress a doll that small? 

I redress mainly for the Salvation Army Dress-a-Doll Contest. We have
two choices of dolls:  Barbie or one or several types of baby/toddler. I
buy a few extra ethnic or pale-skinned dolls as our Barbie choice is
either Caucasian or African-American and there are many Hispanic and
Asian families in Omaha now.  There used to be larger dolls available(I
believe they were Horseman and other factory "seconds") but as the
mass-market became Barbies and baby dolls, our choice of dolls to dress
has come down to those types of dolls. We used to not even get real
Barbies to dress--just cheaper knock-offs with shorter arms and bodies
with just enough smaller bust, waist and hip measurements, that a very
fitted Barbie pattern had to be adjusted to fit.           
 I also dress porcelain dolls I make as a hobby--I take a class once a
week--usually a year or more for me from cleaning the porcelain
greenware to polishing, painting(can take me several separate firings
plus to get things like eyebrows and eyelashes just right can take me
one or more class times to assembling, inserting eyes, wigging and
making the costume(I generally hand-sew)from research, assembling
fabrics and trims) 

Second, why vinyl?  and for that matter, why pale-skinned? See above for
the why vinyl.  For pale-skinned dolls it is because tanned skin was
something real ladies avoided until about the 1920's. Until then, in
Western Europe, anyway, keeping one's skin as pale as possible proved
you didn't have to labor out-of-doors. And they knew even way back when
that sun exposure was aging to the skin. A tan slowly started to become
popular with the advent of the Industrial Revolution. As farming became
mechanized and smaller farming families left farming to get jobs in the
new factories in the cities, workers lost their up-to-then declasse
tanned skin and became pale(and usually sick)due to working twelve or
more hours at a time away from sun and fresh air. Those that could
afford it, fled to coastal towms, some which developed into sizeable
summer vacation spots. Slowly tanned skin switched from a sign of being
poor and working outside to make a living to visable proof of being
healthy and wealthy enough to have the leisure time to "develop" a
tanned skin, ideally year around. Coco Chanel, either got or took the
credit for making tanned skin popular and women smoking in public
acceptable. That is why if I'm going to dress a doll as an Elizabethan
lady or 1880's bride, I look for a paler-skinned doll. I have dressed
African-American Barbies as the poet Phillis Wheatley and the self-made
millionairess, Madame CJ Walker for the Salvation Army. That way, I get
to try out an historical costume and do research, and a child will get a
doll that reflects someone in her ethnic history.  I also write up a
brief biog or find and buy a child's biography on the person the doll
represents

While a naturally acquired tan is no longer considered healthy, of
course, the idea of health=tanned skin still exists, evidenced by all of
the tanning parlors and self-tanning products out there.

Too much information, but that's my rationale for wanting paler skinned
dolls when doing historic costuming.

Cindy Abel
 

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From: Chris <emeraldepona@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Finally! My copy of MC&T
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

I told B&N to 'stuff it' and ordered direct from B&B.  Amazon had done a similar thing, like B&N just did, on three different occasions over the last year or so and so I no longer do business with them and I tol B&N the same thing.  I HOPE they don't go that route, but I'm so glad you all got your books!   I am expecting mine by end of this week....
 
Chris G.

Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com> wrote: 
I was so annoyed that I wrote B & N/ and told them. It took about five minutes to get the following reply.

<
Thank you for your inquiry regarding order #BN68031064.

We are pleased to confirm that the cancelled item you had ordered, is
now available. If you still would like to receive this item, you can
place a new order at www.bn.com. If you wish, we are happy to do this
for you. Simply respond to this email with your permission to charge
your credit card for the item. We will honor the original price of the
book>>


		
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From: "Sablerose" <tayla@sablerose.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Another Kingdom of Heaven question
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Since I know several of you have seen the movie, I've got a question
about one of the cloak/mantles that shows up fairly often.  There
appears to be no clasp, just a mass or band of fabric that sits across
the top of the chest/shoulders.  You can see the top of this at
http://www.imdb.com/gallery/ss/0320661/KOH-19.jpg or there's a better
picture about 11 in on the gallery of the www.kingdomofheavenmovie.com
<http://www.kingdomofheavenmovie.com/>  site, but it's all flash so I
can't give you a direct link.  I've seen images of this sort of cloak
before, but how is it constructed?  I assume it's something you pull
over your head, but the 'mass of fabric at the chest seems to indicate
more than one layer.  Is it a circle?  Any hits as to the period of such
a garment?  Anyone who's worn one, how functional a garment is this?
 
Tayla, now curious.
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Sablerose wrote:

> Since I know several of you have seen the movie, I've got a question
> about one of the cloak/mantles that shows up fairly often.  There
> appears to be no clasp, just a mass or band of fabric that sits across
> the top of the chest/shoulders.  You can see the top of this at
> http://www.imdb.com/gallery/ss/0320661/KOH-19.jpg

That particular picture *could* be a separate hood over a basic cloak. 
However, I've seen a fair number of innovations for cloaks for 
medievaloid movies which I would be at a loss to support by contemporary 
medieval sources.

Somehow a basic half or full circle cloak doesn't suit the moviemaker's 
idea of what things should look like, so there end up being broad bands 
across the chest which fasten making an H (more like a later day 
ecclesiastical cope) instead of them going edge-to-edge, or there's some 
sort of crossover going on at the neck (like for the hobbit cloaks), or 
other innovations.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent
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Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> otsisto@socket.net 09/05/2005 19:16 >>> wrote:
>Sounds like you have Living History reinactors. They expect 100% >accuracy in all aspects of what they are recreating. Nothing mundane is >allowed to be seen by the public when reenacting. Clothing MUST be made >of materials know to have been used during the time period reenacting.

I believe the SCA does exist in Britain, but most of our reenactment is by groups who put on military or living history displays (or both) for the public. 
It started in 1968 when historian Brig. Peter Young founded the Sealed Knot, originally so that he could see English Civil War battles acted out by live soldiers. The idea appealed to so many people that it grew into a huge society. The costumes were very amateurish at first, but have gradually improved over the years as people learned about historical patterns and realised how the common soldier would really have dressed. Many other groups of varying sizes and representing many different periods have grown up since then. I belong to a group that does Living history, as De describes, within the SK.




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From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] UK reenactment, was SCA v Renfaire
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At 17:44 10/05/2005 +0100, you wrote:


>Kate Bunting
>Librarian and 17th century reenactor
>
> >>> otsisto@socket.net 09/05/2005 19:16 >>> wrote:
> >Sounds like you have Living History reinactors. They expect 
> 100% >accuracy in all aspects of what they are recreating. Nothing 
> mundane is >allowed to be seen by the public when reenacting. Clothing 
> MUST be made >of materials know to have been used during the time period 
> reenacting.
>
>I believe the SCA does exist in Britain, but most of our reenactment is by 
>groups who put on military or living history displays (or both) for the 
>public.
>It started in 1968 when historian Brig. Peter Young founded the Sealed 
>Knot, originally so that he could see English Civil War battles acted out 
>by live soldiers. The idea appealed to so many people that it grew into a 
>huge society. The costumes were very amateurish at first, but have 
>gradually improved over the years as people learned about historical 
>patterns and realised how the common soldier would really have dressed. 
>Many other groups of varying sizes and representing many different periods 
>have grown up since then. I belong to a group that does Living history, as 
>De describes, within the SK.

I have worked with the Sealed Knot, and yes, Kate, they have improved 
enormously. I went to a banquet at Eltham Palace in 1972 (?) and wore 
costume I had borrowed from the National Theatre. At the time it was still 
more authentic than anything they were wearing (apart from Sir Peter Young 
that is, and a few mercenaries from Germany.) It would not necessarily be 
so now, though.

Suzi



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>>A Faire in the middle ages and renaissance usually, like 98% of the time,
>>meant a gathering of people to show and sell livestock. Example: a State
>Fair

Plenty o'livestock on display. Watch the merchant "fleecing the sheep"
sometime.  I suspect with a little effort you can make many more
livestock comments about any and all participants. "I wonder if she
knows she looks like a cow in that..."
--cin

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Thanks all for the info, interesting.  I think I will try the second-hand stores, but for something bigger than Barbie -- too little.  

SKneeland
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Subject: [h-cost] Colonial House/Pioneer House reviews?
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Hello 

Channel 4 in the UK is about to run a series called
'Pioneer House' which I belive was shown last year on
PBS in the US as 'Colonial House' - boring personality
squabbles aside, the big question is: is the costuming
worth tuning in for?  I've not made anything 17C yet
but am interested to see how practical/comfortable the
clothing would be.
Thanks

Susan S.


		
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katherine sanders wrote:

> Hello 
> 
> Channel 4 in the UK is about to run a series called
> 'Pioneer House' which I belive was shown last year on
> PBS in the US as 'Colonial House'

Frontier House (pioneer era) is 19th century, "wild west" era. There's a 
web page here: http://www.pbs.org/wnet/frontierhouse/project/

If it really is Colonial House, then...

http://www.pbs.org/wnet/colonialhouse/



>  is the costuming
> worth tuning in for? 

When they are wearing the costumes properly they are gorgeous, but most 
of the time the women were only wearing shifts and the men only wearing 
pants and if they had shirts they were open and flapping. A very 
slovenly lot if you ask me. The photo gallery on the website gives a 
much better impression than the film footage did.




Dawn


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Redressing dolls
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>Thanks all for the info, interesting.  I think I will try the second-hand 
>stores, but for something bigger than Barbie -- too little.

Another problem is that the larger size dolls are thought of as 
"collectable", and the price can go out of the child toy range.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
             ////-@@\\\
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Does this group have a files or links section?  I couldn't find any.

I'd like a link to Robin Netherton's info on the gothic fitted gown.  Does someone have it, pretty please?
Julie

> 
>      If the cote is anything like Robin Netherton's gothic fitted gown
> (you say it's self-supporting) I don't think you can do it justice
> with a dummy.  You need to see how the fabric behaves on your body,
> which means you need to fit with the actual fabric.
> 
>      A corset is different.  If you have the dummy made over a corset,
> then you should be able to fit it that way.  A corset tends to harden
> the body into a solid shape, whereas the gothic fitted gown works
> with a soft, natural body.
> 
>      -Carol
> 

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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On Tue, 10 May 2005, Julie wrote:

> Does this group have a files or links section?  I couldn't find any.
> 
> I'd like a link to Robin Netherton's info on the gothic fitted gown.  
> Does someone have it, pretty please? Julie

You can find two useful files on my embryonic webpage, which exists mostly
to save me the trouble of e-mailing those files! There's a handout I give
out at lectures -- not meant as a stand-alone article, but it has some
useful background. And more important, there's a collection of my posts to
the h-cost list on the topic over several years. After you've read all
that, if you have specific questions, please feel free to e-mail me
directly.

The URL is http://www.netherton.net/robin .

--Robin

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>From: "McClure, Kate" <kate.mcclure@dexmedia.com>
>>BTW, there is also "Mom's Goop" which is supposed to take up stains on
>>fabric.
>The company is at http://www.goophandcleaner.com
>Do you have any experience with this on a cotton shirt? I've just
>managed my 'clever trick of the day', i.e. flipping a black flair pen
>point-first into my new white embroidered blouse. *Insert sound of
>grinding teeth here*

I'm sorry, I've never used it.  I've used the regular stuff  (it's what I 
use to get the shoemaking "wax" off of everything), but not the "Mom's"

Marc


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I am forwarding thsi from my Costume Society e-newsletter.  it would be
a real shame to lose this museum.

Katy

The following is from the Costume Society of America email newsletter.

1. TEXTILE MUSEUM THREATENED WITH CLOSURE

LYNNE Z. BASSETT (New England and the Eastern Provinces
Region I) provides the following report:

"Rumors that the American Textile History Museum in Lowell, MA, will be
closing in September are dangerously close to being the truth. Founded
in 1960, the museum opened at its present site in 1997.  The museum's
collection of industrial textile machinery has been designated a
National Heritage Collection for Mechanical Engineering, while its
library holds 27,000 volumes, 50,000 images, and five million swatches
of historic fabrics.  The museum also owns an important collection of
costume and textiles.  The elegantly refurbished factory building which
now houses the museum offers an impressive permanent exhibit on American
textile history from domestic to factory production.  The Textile
Conservation Center of the ATHM is one of only three such regional
conservation centers in the U.S.

Unfortunately, visitation and other means of support have not been
sufficient since the museum moved to Lowell and it is currently
operating with a $600,000 deficit.  Knowing that it cannot continue to
withdraw endowment funds to meet operating expenses, the museum is
exploring its options, including merging with another organization
outside of New England, selling the museum building and leasing back
space to continue educational activities, or permanently closing and
dispersing the collections.  A meeting of the board of trustees on May
20th will decide the museum's future.  Please pledge your support and
help get the word out to save this important museum and keep it in
Lowell.  It is not too late." To help, write in support of the Museum.
Send your letters to Michael Smith, President, American Textile History
Museum, 491 Dutton Street, Lowell, MA 01854.


Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net                www.VintageVictorian.com
     Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
      Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.

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I just got my copy from Boydell and Brewer at the discount price.  Not as
good as B&N, but at least I've got it!  Barnes and Noble are off my
Christmas List.



Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey
"There are four things you must never do: lie, steal, cheat, or drink.
But if you must lie, lie in the arms of the one you love.
If you must steal, steal away from bad company.
If you must cheat, cheat death.
And if you must drink, drink in the moments that take your breath away."
Brianne Kelly Darragh


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Subject: [h-cost] "trousers"
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What is the approximate date for the Thorsbjerg and the Damendorf trousers?  
Would someone please point me in the right direction to learn more about 
these?

I am trying to document trousers - my hubby is a 7th century Saxon 
immigrating to Britain (if immigrating is the right word for that population 
shift!) and I want to do as authentic an outfit as possible.  I'm waiting 
for Gale Crocker-Owens' book to arrive at the library on interlibrary loan.  
Any info greatly appreciated!!

Berenice


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Subject: [h-cost] SCA v Renfaire
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IMO, the main difference:  when I went to my first Ren Fair last year, a 
girl flitted up to me - her skin was tinted green, she was wearing some sort 
of gauzy "tinkerbell" costume complete with wings - and she asked me if I 
would like to be sprinkled with fairy dust.

No tinkerbells at SCA events that I've been to!!

Berenice


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 My daughter bought a pair of white shorts at a deep discount store with a
HUGE permanant marker stain on the butt.   She only paid about 50 cents
for them so it was worth it to try to get it out.   We heard you could
use hair spray, but after using the whole can, I decided that the main
ingredient was alcohol, so we began using Alcohol, pouring it through the
fabric and blotting the fabric and later even rubbing it.  it took hours
of work over the course of a couple days or even three or four.   but we
got that stain down to a shadow.   hopefully since your stain hasn't had
weeks, months or even more to set, you might get it all out.

Kitty

>>From: "McClure, Kate" <kate.mcclure@dexmedia.com>
>>>BTW, there is also "Mom's Goop" which is supposed to take up stains on
>>> fabric.
>>The company is at http://www.goophandcleaner.com
>>Do you have any experience with this on a cotton shirt? I've just
>> managed my 'clever trick of the day', i.e. flipping a black flair pen
>> point-first into my new white embroidered blouse. *Insert sound of
>> grinding teeth here*
>
> I'm sorry, I've never used it.  I've used the regular stuff  (it's what
> I  use to get the shoemaking "wax" off of everything), but not the
> "Mom's"
>
> Marc
>


>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Finally! My copy of MC&T
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On Tuesday 10 May 2005 11:48 am, Chris wrote:
> I told B&N to 'stuff it' and ordered direct from B&B.  Amazon had done a
> similar thing, like B&N just did, on three different occasions over the
> last year or so and so I no longer do business with them and I tol B&N the
> same thing.  I HOPE they don't go that route, but I'm so glad you all got
> your books!   I am expecting mine by end of this week....

B&N has shipped my book, but UPS has held it up a day.  According to UPS's 
tracking information, I expect it tomorrow.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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On Tuesday 10 May 2005 9:36 pm, Laura Waack wrote:
> What is the approximate date for the Thorsbjerg and the Damendorf trousers?
> Would someone please point me in the right direction to learn more about
> these?

I don't know about the Damendorf trousers, but the Thorsbjerg trousers are 
estimated to be 3rd-4th century CE.  There's a picture with date estimate 
here (log in as "guest" to see):

http://slumberland.org/moodle/mod/forum/discuss.php?d=582


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 20:51:47 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>, h-costume@net.indra.com
From: Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "trousers"
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At 1:36 AM +0000 5/11/05, Laura Waack wrote:
>What is the approximate date for the Thorsbjerg 
>and the Damendorf trousers?  Would someone 
>please point me in the right direction to learn 
>more about these?
>
>I am trying to document trousers - my hubby is a 
>7th century Saxon immigrating to Britain (if 
>immigrating is the right word for that 
>population shift!) and I want to do as authentic 
>an outfit as possible.  I'm waiting for Gale 
>Crocker-Owens' book to arrive at the library on 
>interlibrary loan.  Any info greatly 
>appreciated!!

So far, my surviving garments database includes 
five items in the general category of "northern 
German Migration-era trousers":  two pairs from 
Thorsbjerg (one is much better preserved than the 
other), one from Damendorf, one from Dätgen, one 
from Marx-Etzel.  Schlabow is the most extensive 
source I've found and the only one that covers 
all five (downside: it's in German; upside: lots 
of diagrams).  Hald covers all but the more badly 
preserved Thorsbjerg item, but her discussion of 
dating has been largely superceded.  Individual 
items are also covered in other publications, but 
the only ones people are likely to have access to 
are Farke (Damendorf trousers) and Tarrent (the 
better-preserved Thorsbjerg trousers).

The dating of the various garments differs in 
different sources, but as a group they belong to 
around the first couple centuries CE. Parallels 
in art come from the Roman imperial era.

References

Farke, Heidemarie.  1994.  "Ein 
zweitausendjäriges Bekleidungsstück -- 
Beobachtungen nach der Präsentation einer 
Ausstellung" in Archäologische Textilfunde -- 
Archaeological Textiles (NESAT Symposium 5) ed. 
Gisela Jaacks & Klaus Tidow.  Neumünster.

Hald, Margarethe.  1980.  Ancient Danish Textiles 
from Bogs and Burials.  National Museum of 
Denmark, Copenhagen.

Schlabow, Karl.  1976.  Textilfunde der Eisenzeit 
in Norddeutschland.  Karl Wachholtz Verlag, 
Neumünster.

Tarrant, Naomi.  1994.  The Development of Costume.  Routledge, London.

Heather
-- 
--
Heather Rose Jones
heather.jones@earthlink.net

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] "trousers"
Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 00:52:34 -0400
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On Tuesday 10 May 2005 11:51 pm, Heather Rose Jones wrote:
> At 1:36 AM +0000 5/11/05, Laura Waack wrote:
> >What is the approximate date for the Thorsbjerg
> >and the Damendorf trousers?  Would someone
> >please point me in the right direction to learn
> >more about these?

Thanks for the information, Heather; some of what you've said below (which I 
have not repeated) I didn't know either. 

Although I have a copy of NESAT 5, the Farke article is in German, and I don't 
read German (but at this rate I may attempt to learn it, in my nonexistent 
spare time....)  With your brief summary, I may be able to glean a bit from 
the captions to the pictures with the Farke article, at least.  


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed May 11 02:14:43 2005
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Stains
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Try the Clorox Bleach Pen.  It lets you put just a dab of bleach - which is 
a gel in the pen - on a stain without having to bleach the whole item (and 
it's corresponding possible problems).  I've removed year-old stains from 
tops that were mostly white (but with lots of color embroidery) with 
this.  You dab it on just before washing (just like with the "Stain 
Sticks").  I put the shirt in with other colored items, and there was no 
problem with the bleach - after all the water comes in, it's so dilute it 
won't affect anything else.  It also has two tip sizes - one on each end - 
so you can get it on a pretty tiny spot if needed.

HTH,
Sandy

>Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 23:01:50 -0400 (EDT)
>From: <basyefelton@floodcity.net>
>
>My daughter bought a pair of white shorts at a deep discount store with a
>HUGE permanant marker stain on the butt.   We heard you could
>use hair spray, but after using the whole can, I decided that the main
>ingredient was alcohol, so we began using Alcohol, pouring it through the
>fabric and blotting the fabric and later even rubbing it.  it took hours
>of work over the course of a couple days or even three or four.   but we
>got that stain down to a shadow.   hopefully since your stain hasn't had
>weeks, months or even more to set, you might get it all out.
>
>Kitty
>
> >>From: "McClure, Kate" <kate.mcclure@dexmedia.com>
>
> >>Do you have any experience with this on a cotton shirt? I've just
> >> managed my 'clever trick of the day', i.e. flipping a black flair pen
> >> point-first into my new white embroidered blouse. *Insert sound of
> >> grinding teeth here*

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 02:24:40 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] SCA v Renfaire
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>IMO, the main difference:  when I went to my first Ren Fair last year, a 
>girl flitted up to me - her skin was tinted green, she was wearing some 
>sort of gauzy "tinkerbell" costume complete with wings - and she asked me 
>if I would like to be sprinkled with fairy dust.
>
>No tinkerbells at SCA events that I've been to!!

I used to see Conan-the-Barbarian-clones at SCA events.  I was the Welcome 
Newcomers person at the time, and I used to re-direct them to other groups 
where "everyone" did that sort of thing, and they would happily go off and 
play with the other groups instead.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Laura Waack wrote:
> What is the approximate date for the Thorsbjerg and the Damendorf 
> trousers?  Would someone please point me in the right direction to learn 
> more about these?

	Marc Carlsson has a very nice website that shows all those styles, plus 
a few others and discusses hosen & braies at 
<http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/trousers/breechesindex.htm>

	-Judy Mitchell
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Heather (and all who replied) - THANKS!!  This is exactly what I needed.

Berenice

So far, my surviving garments database includes
five items in the general category of "northern
German Migration-era trousers":  two pairs from
Thorsbjerg (one is much better preserved than the
other), one from Damendorf, one from Dätgen, one
from Marx-Etzel.  Schlabow is the most extensive
source I've found and the only one that covers
all five (downside: it's in German; upside: lots
of diagrams).  Hald covers all but the more badly
preserved Thorsbjerg item, but her discussion of
dating has been largely superceded.  Individual
items are also covered in other publications, but
the only ones people are likely to have access to
are Farke (Damendorf trousers) and Tarrent (the
better-preserved Thorsbjerg trousers).

The dating of the various garments differs in
different sources, but as a group they belong to
around the first couple centuries CE. Parallels
in art come from the Roman imperial era.

References

Farke, Heidemarie.  1994.  "Ein
zweitausendjäriges Bekleidungsstück --
Beobachtungen nach der Präsentation einer
Ausstellung" in Archäologische Textilfunde --
Archaeological Textiles (NESAT Symposium 5) ed.
Gisela Jaacks & Klaus Tidow.  Neumünster.

Hald, Margarethe.  1980.  Ancient Danish Textiles
from Bogs and Burials.  National Museum of
Denmark, Copenhagen.

Schlabow, Karl.  1976.  Textilfunde der Eisenzeit
in Norddeutschland.  Karl Wachholtz Verlag,
Neumünster.

Tarrant, Naomi.  1994.  The Development of Costume.  Routledge, London.

Heather
--
--
Heather Rose Jones
heather.jones@earthlink.net



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End of h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 307
*****************************************


Laura


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I've just bought next week's "Radio Times", and it's the 17th century "Pioneer House" .(We've already seen  "Frontier House" in the UK)


Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> snappylunch_2001@yahoo.com 11/05/2005 14:13 >>>

If it's the one in the 1600's on the coast of Maine, the clothing looked good to me.  Then again, my knowlege lies more in the 18th and 19th cent.

They got their expertise and advice from Plymoth Plantation, which is held in high regard in museum circles here.  And It seems to me they had the status differences between social classes in mind and made them

If it's the one in the late 1800's, on the prairie, That one seemed to be a bit freer.

In both of the seriers, a significant # of 20th century women were not into wearing the undergarments, particularly stays and corsets (the teens on the prairie ran wild in just their shifts.), but on the whole the participants wore the garments as clothing, not costumes.

Mia in CHarlotte, NC

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If it's the one in the 1600's on the coast of Maine, the clothing looked good to me.  Then again, my knowlege lies more in the 18th and 19th cent.

They got their expertise and advice from Plymoth Plantation, which is held in high regard in museum circles here.  And It seems to me they had the status differences between social classes in mind and made them

If it's the one in the late 1800's, on the prairie, That one seemed to be a bit freer.

In both of the seriers, a significant # of 20th century women were not into wearing the undergarments, particularly stays and corsets (the teens on the prairie ran wild in just their shifts.), but on the whole the participants wore the garments as clothing, not costumes.

Mia in CHarlotte, NC

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At 11:04 PM 5/9/05 -0500, Dawn wrote:

>The gold powder suggestions really give me ideas. I think I can find gold 
>leaf easier than I can find gold lipstick.

Be careful about gold leaf. Most "gold" leafs are composition metals and 
not for use around the mouth.
24 K gold is safe because it's edible, but there is the cost factor.
If you're looking for gold *powder* try gold mica. Mica is the stuff that's 
used in pearl lipsticks to
give it that shimmer. Gold mica is sold for polymer clay artists and 
soapmakers. It's a VERY
concentrated gold powder. I've used it on my lips before mixed with lip 
balm or gloss.

I get mine from "From Nature With Love". Reasonable prices and they have a 
whole range of mica colors
as well as D&C and FD&C powdered colors. Maybe you could use one of these 
for the red eyeshadow.
The web site tells which items are approved for use on lips and eyes. A lot 
of their red micas are approved
for use around the eyes.
http://www.from-nature-with-love.com/soap/ColorAdd.asp

> > try US Toy at 103rd and State Line.
>
>If their hours didn't suck I'd have been there already. :)  They're next 
>on my list of places to look, though.

I know....terrible hours. But it's the only place in KC to find some of the 
stuff they carry.
They carry Mehron's Paradise AQ facepaints. If all else fails in the search 
for red eyeshadow, try these.
US Toy sells the refills packs, so you can just get the red for $8 or 
$9.  Of course, they go on like
watercolor paints, but they usually last very well. I paint my face with 
them and then go all day at the
Renaissance Festival. Unless you dunk your head in water or start rubbing 
your eyes, it'll stay on.

Sheryl N-D




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Hi,

There is a rumour in the German dark age communities that the Thorsberg 
trousers (the better preserved ones) have been redated by C14 to the 6th/7th 
century. I have so far been unable to establish any truth in this rumour. 
Nevertheless, there are finds from Haithabu (Hedeby, Northern Germany) 
dating from the 10th century (pure Viking Age) with *exactly* the same 
pattern for a pair of trousers. The missing bits are the trouser legs and 
feet, but the existant remains of the leg parts indicate they were wide, not 
narrow as in the Thorsberg trousers. The rest of the pattern (crotchpieces, 
bum, waistband, beltloops etc) were not only the same pattern, they were 
almost the exact same measurements as well. The pattern seems to have been 
preserved (at least in Northern Germany) for a few centuries then......

Hope this helps,

Caithlinn


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Subject: Tight jeans was: Re: [h-cost] Re: comfort
Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 14:06:43 -0400
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> To me, very little is less comfortable than tight
> jeans. I don't know how anyone can stand to wear them.

I only buy tight-fitting jeans when I find a pair that *really* fits (and I 
have to try about 30 pairs before that happens)... Stretchy fabrics help 
tremendously. Especially if you have to bend down or kneel during the day 
;-P

Maybe I'm weird, but tight jeans comfort me the way a corset does. I enjoy 
the feeling of having something holding my body. A backpack has the same 
effect, too. Or a wide watch bracelet. The only thing I really love to be 
free is my feet. Too bad there's so much snow in the winter here...

And a bonus to tight-fitting jeans... I like to know guys can enjoy the 
view. Baggy pants just don't do it (and that's true for men, too... I always 
hate the baggy pants look on men, because... well... it looks like the poor 
guys have a void instead of a butt... :-) 
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Subject: [h-cost] women's shifts/smocks/chemise
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I would appreciate a bit of guidance on women's underthings, specifically 
shifts/ smocks/ chemise and it's evolution from early (6th century) to late 
(16th century).

The questions revolve around whether they were a holdover in simplified 
form (basic cut) of an earlier style of outer garment, were derived from 
contemporary fashion or evolved independently (ie. how did they change with 
the styles) and the issue of regional variants? Can their evolution be 
traced from the Coptic tunics that were manufactured and traded as "off the 
rack" garments in late Roman times? I realize that this is a complicated 
subject, with no simple answers and little existing evidence, but what are 
your views?

Pointers to useful references and/or artwork would be particularly helpful. 
Other than the late smocks in the V&A, I have found very little on the subject.

Thanks.
Beth Matney

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Subject: [h-cost] Deadwood costuming
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For anyone interested the costume designer for HBO's
Deadwood, a series that takes place in a Dakota
territory mining camp in the 1870's has a feature on
the website showing some of the costuming inspiration
for the show.  It's definitely in layman's terms but
if nothing else it's lovely eye candy.  Here is the
link.

http://www.hbo.com/deadwood/behind/sets_and_costumes/costumes.html





"Pain or damage don't end the world, or despair or f*ckin' beatings. The world ends when your dead. Until then, you got more punishment in store. Stand it like a man and give some back"

-Al Swearingen, Deadwood
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There is a wonderful little book on this topic titled _Cut My Cote_, by 
Dorothy Burnham, published by the Royal Ontario Museum. It includes 
patterns taken from historic shirts and shifts, as well as a dicussion 
of the evolution of cut.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Beth and Bob Matney wrote:

> I would appreciate a bit of guidance on women's underthings, 
> specifically shifts/ smocks/ chemise and it's evolution from early 
> (6th century) to late (16th century).


<snip>
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Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent wrote:
>That particular picture *could* be a separate hood over a basic cloak.
>However, I've seen a fair number of innovations for cloaks for
>medievaloid movies which I would be at a loss to support by contemporary
>medieval sources.
>
>Somehow a basic half or full circle cloak doesn't suit the moviemaker's
>idea of what things should look like, so there end up being broad bands
>across the chest which fasten making an H (more like a later day
>ecclesiastical cope) instead of them going edge-to-edge, or there's some
>sort of crossover going on at the neck (like for the hobbit cloaks), or
>other innovations.

Actually, the costumer just shopped in the local souq and bought 
available men's wool selham. The sewn part that keeps the cloak on is 
traditional in Morocco and Algeria, and not a costumer's innovation. 
I make no claims for the 12th century Levant,.

Many of the people in the film, especially but not limited to extras, 
were wearing locally available modern Moroccan garments, which is 
hardly surprising since much of the movie was filmed in southern 
Morocco. The costuming kept me shuddering during my viewing of the 
film, but after mentioning two or three serious gaffs i kept my mouth 
shut .

The "center" of the Moroccan film industry as available to American 
and European film makers is the quiet dusty city of Ouarzazat, which 
i can only guess is not so quiet when foreign filmakers are in town. 
I passed through Ouarzazat in January 2001 on my way to visit sand 
dunes in Merzouga with my daughter. She had spent a semester abroad 
at the university in Rabat and the Americans in that group had 
visited the sand dunes in Zagora in the fall of 2000.

Morocco is actually not full of sand dunes, which are in fact a great 
disaster. The government is attempting to halt desertification, while 
keeping a few locations since they are a tourist attraction - for 
some reason many people think that Morocco is full of sand dunes 
and/or that deserts consist of sand dunes - and important for the 
film industry.

On our way out of Merzouga, i picked up two young French hitch 
hikers. After mentioning that we were from California, the young 
woman said that the landscape must be very different from CA. I said 
there were deserts in California and she very clearly did not believe 
me, having another common stereotype, that California is all sunny 
palm-tree lined beaches, which even many Americans hold.

Anahita
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kingdom of Heaven
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From: "mischele1" <mischele1@cox.net>
>I just saw Kingdom of Heaven and am wondering about the costumes 
>that the leading actress wore. They were so beautiful.
>I would like to make something for an Arabian Nights event and am 
>wondering how accurate they would be for referance.

Near and Middle Eastern clothing is one of my major areas of research.

Princess Sibylla's clothing was pure fantasy. And she was wearing 
*silver* jewelry in some scenes! Tsk, tsk, tsk. She was a ferkin' 
*princess*, fer cryin' out load. She'd never stoop to wearing silver. 
Not to mention that the silver Indian necklace the costumer had 
pinned to her veil looked stoooopid. And when she was wearing gold 
jewlery, it was mostly very obviously modern Indian. Even *i* can 
find peri-oid jewelry - i don't have their budget.

I shuddered at the women's costumes throughout the film. Nothing even 
vaguely approached the clothing worn in any century, well, outside of 
a 21st c. film. Fantasy, fantasy, all is fantasy.

The Muslim men's costuming was better. A rare few were actually 
really good (the best was on the younger advisor to Salah al-Din, 
played by Khaled El Nabawy - a dark tunic with gold writing (Tiraz) 
on the upper arm), some was somewhat fantasy (like what Salah al-Din 
was wearing - what's with the silver mylar in the scarf?), and some 
was pathetic, like some male extras in the standard blue tunics that 
illegal guides wear to lure unsuspecting tourists in Morocco where 
those scenes were filmed.

Most of the armor was fabulous.

I cannot speak for what the Franji wore, not my area of study.

Anahita
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Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 13:27:13 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] women's shifts/smocks/chemise
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>I would appreciate a bit of guidance on women's underthings, specifically 
>shifts/ smocks/ chemise and it's evolution from early (6th century) to 
>late (16th century).
>
>The questions revolve around whether they were a holdover in simplified 
>form (basic cut) of an earlier style of outer garment, were derived from 
>contemporary fashion or evolved independently (ie. how did they change 
>with the styles) and the issue of regional variants? Can their evolution 
>be traced from the Coptic tunics that were manufactured and traded as "off 
>the rack" garments in late Roman times? I realize that this is a 
>complicated subject, with no simple answers and little existing evidence, 
>but what are your views?
>
>Pointers to useful references and/or artwork would be particularly 
>helpful. Other than the late smocks in the V&A, I have found very little 
>on the subject.

Go for a book called _Cut My Cote_.  It shows many centuries of garments, 
and undergarments, using variations of a simple rectangles-and-triangles 
cut.  Certainly those late smocks in the V&A all use variations of this 
cut.  The exact shape of the neckline will vary depending on what the 
fashionable dress neckline is doing.  The exact fullness of sleeve will 
vary depending on what width the fashionable dress sleeves have.  And there 
are a couple of different ways to do an underarm gusset.  But I'd say all 
of these were cut really similarly, especially when contrasted with how the 
corresponding outer garments were cut.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gothic fitted gown
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Julie wrote me separately to tell me she'd meant to direct that note
privately, but since she asked the questions on the list, I figured I
should answer on-list.

On Wed, 11 May 2005, Julie wrote:

> I found your site yesterday by Googling.  Also found photos of a class
> you taught with fitting & everything.  I printed those too <G>.

Do be aware that the photos from that workshop were not meant to be a
"tutorial," though I have heard people calling it that -- which can be a
problem. (I wouldn't expect anyone to be able to learn to fit the dress
based on some snapshots of a workshop!)

> I had a friend help me make a fitted gown.  It is very uncomfortable
> around the armhole.  Another person said that that's just the way
> clothing was then.  I find that very hard to believe.  It was made
> center front lacing and straight grain up the center front.  You
> looked great in the one you were wearing - complete with white
> tippets.  Are you comfortable all day?  I thought medieval clothing
> would be more comfortable than a bodice.

Yes, I'm comfortable all day in that outfit -- which actually is two
lined fitted dresses over a chemise! 

Without knowing more about your dress, I can't be certain what your
armhole problem is, but there are a handful of possibilities.

It's a common error to cut the armhole too low. It should be right up
against your underarm, like a second skin. However, the usual problem this
causes isn't so much discomfort, but more often difficulty raising the
arm. The same thing happens if the sleeve cap is too high -- it should be
rather shallow.

Since you talk about discomfort, I'm guessing something is interfering
with the flexibility of the armhole opening. There are several factors
that might contribute to tightness or "cutting" around the armhole.

1. Are you using natural fibers in a flexible but strong weave? Linen and
wool should stretch nicely most of the way around the armhole. Silk can be
harder but is workable. Rayon usually isn't a problem. Cotton can be a
royal pain. Anything synthetic may cause a great deal of trouble.

2. Did you stitch too tightly? Even the most flexible fabric can't stretch
with your body movement if it's locked in with poly thread or tight
stitching. I use natural-fiber thread (usually cotton) with a tiny bit of
zigzag (just enough to look drunken) if I'm doing it by machine, but it's
even better hand-stitched with some "give" to the stitching.

3. Did you trim and clip your seam closely? If you didn't, the allowance
will bind. 

4. Do you have too many seam allowances piled up in one spot? This can
create a pressure point or bulk that can interfere with movement.

5. Did you place your armhole seam right around the "crease" of the joint,
where your arm meets your body? If not, it won't bend where you bend.

If none of these is the obvious explanation, give me some more detail on
the nature and location of the discomfort, and the materials and layers of
the dress, and we'll try to figure it out.

> At a recent SCA class the instructor presented evidence of these gowns
> being cut on the bias.  I haven't tried that out but I'm fairly
> certain that there were more of these gowns cut straight grain than on
> the bias just based on portraits.

I'd sure love to see this evidence. The only indication I've seen of
anything of the sort are the occasional examples of decorative particolor
plaids, which appear to occur only in certain places and contexts that I
would not generalize to routine wear by middle and upper-class women in
Western Europe. Please note those qualifications -- images of outcasts,
jongleurs, and men are not good sources for typical women's wear, and
anything happening in Spain and Italy should not be taken unquestioningly
as evidence for practices in France, England, the Low Countries, and
Germany.

I frankly can't see any reasonable way that bias construction would have
derived from the preceding known cuts and/or led into any of the cuts that
followed in this line of evolution of garment construction. And from a
practical standpoint, bias cutting won't give you the support and
structure that makes the gown "work," and will likely create a real mess
on the lacing opening. I'm open to hearing a good argument for it ... but
from what I've seen so far, I really don't think there's anything out
there to support that idea.

--Robin

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> > I'd like a link to Robin Netherton's info on the gothic fitted gown.  
> > Does someone have it, pretty please? Julie
> 
> You can find two useful files on my embryonic webpage, which exists mostly
> to save me the trouble of e-mailing those files! There's a handout I give
> out at lectures -- not meant as a stand-alone article, but it has some
> useful background. And more important, there's a collection of my posts to
> the h-cost list on the topic over several years. After you've read all
> that, if you have specific questions, please feel free to e-mail me
> directly.
> 
> The URL is http://www.netherton.net/robin .
> 
> --Robin

Cool!  You're actually on this site.

I found your site yesterday by Googling.  Also found photos of a class you taught with fitting & everything.  I printed those too <G>.

I had a friend help me make a fitted gown.  It is very uncomfortable around the armhole.  Another person said that that's just the way clothing was then.  I find that very hard to believe.  It was made center front lacing and straight grain up the center front.  You looked great in the one you were wearing - complete with white tippets.  Are you comfortable all day?  I thought medieval clothing would be more comfortable than a bodice.

At a recent SCA class the instructor presented evidence of these gowns being cut on the bias.  I haven't tried that out but I'm fairly certain that there were more of these gowns cut straight grain than on the bias just based on portraits.

1.  What do you think about the gowns being bias?
2.  Any ideas what could be wrong with the armhole of my gown - fitting tips, etc.?

Thanks
Julie in San Diego
AKA Julia de Figueiredo

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I've been watching the German 1900 House - its fascinating and I love 
the clothing! Their main focus is on the servants so far with a bit of 
a look at the family when necessary. If you're in Australia, you can 
watch it on DW _TV on Monday nights at 10:30pm - they do the english 
version then.
Warmest Regards,
Aylwen Garden

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Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> otsisto@socket.net 09/05/2005 23:32 >>> wrote:

>A Faire in the middle ages and renaissance usually, like 98% of the time,
>meant a gathering of people to show and sell livestock.

Not necessarily livestock - what about "hiring fairs" where servants looked for new jobs?
The entertainment/sale-of-fancy-goods aspect always existed, to judge from nursery rhymes etc., but has only gradually become the main purpose of the event.
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I've worked for consumer magazines, as a staff editor as well as (later) 
a freelance journalist, for several years, including some textile arts 
publications.  I've also done some freelance rewrite editing for 
academic journals.

Both types of publications usually rely heavily (indeed, often mostly) 
on means of support other than their readers' purchases of subscriptions 
and single issues.  While many academic journals  include some 
advertising, often they are published by organizations and are supported 
primarily by the organization's membership fees. Possibly grants can 
play a part, I don't know.  Academic journals often don't pay their 
writers, because those writers are looking primarily for professional 
exposure.  The chief  editors (people who chose the articles, did some 
editing on some articles, found any staff needed, and supervised 
production) for the two journals I mostly worked for, also didn't get 
paid.  They were working for professional exposure. Also, they enjoyed 
editing and could afford to do it free because they were supported by 
their other work.

Although grad students and such are sometimes recruited to do free work, 
some people do have to get paid--I was paid the going rates for my 
editorial work.  And priniting has to be paid for.  There are real 
costs.  But many academic journals can afford to price themselves high, 
if purchased beyond a membership.  They are specialized, must-have 
publications for a small but significant number of professionals in a 
field, and for libraries (college libraries in particular).

Consumer magazines, however, have to hire professionals for all their 
content and production--and pay the full costs of same.  Furthermore, 
subscribers have much higher expectations in terms of glitz.  By glitz I 
mean things like high-quality color photos, instead of competent but 
unshowy line art and b/w photos illustrating technical points.  
Provocative layouts that have lots of variety and retain the reader's 
interest in every page. Pull-out quotes, uneven length columns, illos 
with text flowing around them, things like that.  Glossy paper.  A 
glitzy cover that catches the eye on a newsstand. 

All this costs money.  At the same time, consumers expect magazines to 
be cheap, a few dollars per issue.  That's what's been usual for many 
years because: 

Consumer magazines are supported primarily by their advertising sales.  
The number of subscribers is important, because it dictates how much 
advertisers are willing to pay the magazine for ads (how many eyeballs 
they expect to capture).  But the ad sales are where the money comes from.

This also, BTW, is how those smaller neighborhood newspapers can afford 
to dump free issues on your lawn every week.  They're making their money 
off ads. In order to tell advertisers their newspaper has X number of 
readers, they deliver it free.

Now things are changing, and I can't predict what the outcome will be.  
But I suspect  many good, commercially produced magazines with large 
subscriber lists are making less money because: 

The Internet is impacting ad sales.  I think particularly the sales of 
classifieds and small display ads, because their number is definitely 
shrinking in magazines I subscribe to.  Although these individually cost 
less than full-page four-color ads (which can cost several thousand 
dollars apiece, and which sell to advertisers with that kind of money), 
these smaller ads add up to significant revenue.  The thing is, almost 
any business or individual can put up a website of (at least) several 
pages, in full color, for a year or two, for less money than one 
appearance of one small ad in one magazine.  Anybody can post their 
links on email lists, do link exchanges with dozens of other sites, and 
otherwise publicize their website for no cost except their time.

Some magazines (and newspapers) are countering by selling advertising on 
their own websites, as well as in the magazine.  This may be working to 
supply the missing revenue.  But still, as above, anybody can get free 
links; and to many this may seem more worthwhile than paying for them on 
a magazine's site.

A startup magazine has a hard time of it in any case. (I was a staff 
editor for one startup consumer magazine, and the atmosphere was much 
like working for a software startup, which I've also done when I was a 
technical writer.)  For one thing, advertisers have always been 
reluctant to buy ads in a magazine with no track record and a very thin 
subscriber list.  Like the neighborhoods newspapers I mentioned above, 
they sometimes send out the first issue free, hoping it will induce 
subscribers to invest in a magazine with no previous track record; and 
thereby attract more advertisers by having more subscribers.  But this 
takes substantial cash.   And a consumer magazine is under constant 
pressure from both advertisers and subscribers to produce every issue 
promised right on schedule, not even a few days late.  It looks bad if 
they don't, it looks bad if an issue is thinner.  It's a high-pressure, 
high-risk business. 

So while I agree that it would be very nice to have a good costume 
consumer magazine, this is not a great climate for starting one.  Not 
that no one should do it, but I wouldn't touch the project with the 
proverbial ten-foot pole.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com






>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Another Kingdom of Heaven question
Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 10:01:38 -0700
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I *think* I've seen similar things depicted in medieval art, but I'll have 
to dig around and see if I can come up with them.

Thanks!

Tayla

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cynthia Virtue" <cvirtue+dated+1131294662.6d570a@thibault.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 10, 2005 9:38 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Another Kingdom of Heaven question


> Sablerose wrote:
>
>> Since I know several of you have seen the movie, I've got a question
>> about one of the cloak/mantles that shows up fairly often.  There
>> appears to be no clasp, just a mass or band of fabric that sits across
>> the top of the chest/shoulders.  You can see the top of this at
>> http://www.imdb.com/gallery/ss/0320661/KOH-19.jpg
>
> That particular picture *could* be a separate hood over a basic cloak. 
> However, I've seen a fair number of innovations for cloaks for medievaloid 
> movies which I would be at a loss to support by contemporary medieval 
> sources.
>
> Somehow a basic half or full circle cloak doesn't suit the moviemaker's 
> idea of what things should look like, so there end up being broad bands 
> across the chest which fasten making an H (more like a later day 
> ecclesiastical cope) instead of them going edge-to-edge, or there's some 
> sort of crossover going on at the neck (like for the hobbit cloaks), or 
> other innovations.
>
> -- 
> Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent
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Subject: [h-cost] Good irons?
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Hi,
I'm in the market for a new electric steam iron. My old one is a lovely shade of "Harvest Gold", which tells you how old it is, plus, about 10 years ago I melted the lid of a yogurt container on the base plate. Anyway I have been squinting at the Consumer Reports listings, but I get the feeling CR's testers don't actually iron that much, as their criteria are kind of weird. So their first choice is a Black and Decker model that the user reviews on Amazon.com found unreliable and problematic. Thus, I turn to you: has anybody got an iron to recommend? I use mine for three things: to iron existing clothes; to press seams, edges, and other tricky parts when constructing garments, and sometimes to put a little gentle fulling onto handwoven wools. How these purposes align with CR's "Ironing" "Steaming" and "Glide" is a little unclear. Also everybody seems to hate an iron that drips water on clothes at lower temperatures, but given the nature of steam and condensation I'm not sure !
 there's a whole lot a manufacturer can do to prevent it. Anyway, your advice gratefully entertained. 
Best,
Lauren Walker
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kingdom of Heaven - tangent
Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 00:00:37 -0400
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On Tuesday 10 May 2005 12:20 am, Heather Rose Jones wrote:
> At 3:48 PM -0400 5/8/05, Linda Rice wrote:
> >Hi~!
> >
> >I don't know of any hard evidence for pants in England in the 12th
> >century. We do know that some
> >Viking cultures had pants (Thorsbjerg, for example) but we aren't
> >even sure about a lot of details
>
> Sorry for jumping on one of my pet bugaboos, but the Thorsbjerg pants
> (and others in the same type-group, such as the Damendorf trousers)
> date roughly to the first couple of centuries CE and can't really be
> called "Viking", even stretching the term seriously.

RIght.  I pointed out the same thing.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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In fact, I'm reading Robin's article now.  
-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 20:51:47 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>, h-costume@net.indra.com
From: Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] "trousers"
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At 1:36 AM +0000 5/11/05, Laura Waack wrote:
>What is the approximate date for the Thorsbjerg 
>and the Damendorf trousers?  Would someone 
>please point me in the right direction to learn 
>more about these?
>
>I am trying to document trousers - my hubby is a 
>7th century Saxon immigrating to Britain (if 
>immigrating is the right word for that 
>population shift!) and I want to do as authentic 
>an outfit as possible.  I'm waiting for Gale 
>Crocker-Owens' book to arrive at the library on 
>interlibrary loan.  Any info greatly 
>appreciated!!

So far, my surviving garments database includes 
five items in the general category of "northern 
German Migration-era trousers":  two pairs from 
Thorsbjerg (one is much better preserved than the 
other), one from Damendorf, one from Dätgen, one 
from Marx-Etzel.  Schlabow is the most extensive 
source I've found and the only one that covers 
all five (downside: it's in German; upside: lots 
of diagrams).  Hald covers all but the more badly 
preserved Thorsbjerg item, but her discussion of 
dating has been largely superceded.  Individual 
items are also covered in other publications, but 
the only ones people are likely to have access to 
are Farke (Damendorf trousers) and Tarrent (the 
better-preserved Thorsbjerg trousers).

The dating of the various garments differs in 
different sources, but as a group they belong to 
around the first couple centuries CE. Parallels 
in art come from the Roman imperial era.

References

Farke, Heidemarie.  1994.  "Ein 
zweitausendjäriges Bekleidungsstück -- 
Beobachtungen nach der Präsentation einer 
Ausstellung" in Archäologische Textilfunde -- 
Archaeological Textiles (NESAT Symposium 5) ed. 
Gisela Jaacks & Klaus Tidow.  Neumünster.

Hald, Margarethe.  1980.  Ancient Danish Textiles 
from Bogs and Burials.  National Museum of 
Denmark, Copenhagen.

Schlabow, Karl.  1976.  Textilfunde der Eisenzeit 
in Norddeutschland.  Karl Wachholtz Verlag, 
Neumünster.

Tarrant, Naomi.  1994.  The Development of Costume.  Routledge, London.

Heather
-- 
--
Heather Rose Jones
heather.jones@earthlink.net

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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] UK reenactment, was SCA v Renfaire
Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 22:59:37 -0700
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Kate,

	Great Britain is in the SCA Kingdom of Drachenwald as the Principality of
Insula Draconis.  It is a very active group with a number of smaller groups
all over it.  Check out:
http://www.drachenwald.sca.org/groups/isles.htm
	As a Founding Member of the Kingdom of Drachenwald I've always loved the
time I spent over there.  Costuming has gotten much better for some.  An
incredible amount of new information on all topics of medieval life have
come into print and public knowledge over the last 20 years.  Much of it has
been published because there is the large SCA/re-enactor/living history
public.  Some pretty impressive scholarship is being done by non-academic
members (and academic ones as well.  It's funny to see SCA names I know
posting as full professors on academic lists.)
	For me the biggest draw of the SCA over true living history groups is the
opportunity to be more than the resident camp follower/kitchen slut/middle
class woman.  In the SCA you can play the high-born lady and exercise power.
I don't play a peasant or middle class.  Why should I want to fantasize
myself into what I am in real life?  :-)  Most of the living history groups
(which we definitely are not!  Nor are we re-enactors, being the History for
Fun group with a heavy sprinkling of independent scholars) seem to be
organized around martial scenes with the guys going out and whanging on each
other.  They allow the girlies along to cook the food, and cheer on the
brave and bonny hosts.  The men get all the direction posts and the ladies
can stay in the background and tend to their knitting, or naalbinding.
	I read about some of the other re-enactments (Kenilworth?) that aren't
exactly that way, but in the SCA I can be a Queen or a Princess, Baroness or
Peeress and I can make a difference in the way the group goes.  The fighter
who tries to pat me on the head and send me back to my corner will draw back
a bloody stump :-)

	The SCA is just my cup of tea.  Your mileage will definitely vary!

Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey



> I believe the SCA does exist in Britain, but most of our
> reenactment is by groups who put on military or living history
> displays (or both) for the public.
> It started in 1968 when historian Brig. Peter Young founded the
> Sealed Knot, originally so that he could see English Civil War
> battles acted out by live soldiers. The idea appealed to so many
> people that it grew into a huge society. The costumes were very
> amateurish at first, but have gradually improved over the years
> as people learned about historical patterns and realized how the
> common soldier would really have dressed. Many other groups of
> varying sizes and representing many different periods have grown
> up since then. I belong to a group that does Living history, as
> De describes, within the SK.
>
>
>
>

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He resurfaced, but it's clear to me that he's not open to really 
discussing it, so I'm not going to try and pursue it; he'll just feel 
beat-upon, and that won't be of any use to anyone.

"As a further example, jogging pants are actually authentic. People have 
been wearing loose-fitting cotton breeches with drawstrings since 
pre-Roman times. You show up wearing nothing but jogging pants, and 
you're a completely authentic Celt."

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent
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Status: RO

 
 Carolyn:
>Thanks all for the info, interesting.  I think I will try the 
>second-hand stores, but for something bigger than Barbie -- too little.

 Thanks for the thanks on the info I shared. Barbie is too little(just
try fitting the multi-layer sleeves of the 1530s-1540s on these dolls),
but patterns to tweak and redesign are readily out there and cheap
during pattern sales at stores like Hancock Fabrics and JoAnns Fabrics
and Crafts. 

I now collect some of the 16" tall fashion dolls, like Tyler Wentworth,
but these girls aren't cheap. Years ago, Toys R Us had a line of quality
dolls for girls called "Young Lady So Beautiful." They were about 15"
tall,and made of a nice vinyl and built a lot like the larger Salvation
Army issue lady-type dolls I remember as a child. The hair was wigged
not rooted and the eyes were a glastic, type of very good quality. Hair,
eye and outfit colors and styles varied. They retailed originally for
$30 apiece and I scooped up four when the line was discontinued after a
year at $10 each.

Regretfully now, I dressed one in an 1880's style ball gown(complete
with bustle pad underneath) in white as a bride and donated her to the
Salvation Army, thinking I could pick up more of these dolls some other
time. She was great fun to dress as she had rather realistic
proportions--about double body measurements of a Barbie, so I could do a
lot of detail work and use larger scale fabrics--actually they were
still pretty small scale on the doll.

Took a peek at your website--Miranda Goshawk, huh?  A co-worker and I
dressed as Hermione and Miranda for about four years every Halloween at
work. I actually visualize Miranda as a 16th or 17th century lady whose
"Standard Books of Spells series" has been required reading at Hogwarts
for the last 300-400 years. Would love to know her real history from JK
Rowling. I hope she does a book on how she created the world of Harry
Potter--I've seen a couple of specials that have shown her own notes and
illustrations, so such a book would be such fun.

Cindy Abel, ILL Coordinator
hslill@creighton.edu 
CUMC Health Sciences Library
Creighton University
2500 California
Omaha NE 68178-0210
402-280-5144


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My husband found this, it's a pop-culture history of the necktie.


http://www.twilightbridge.com/hobbies/festivals/father/necktie.htm



Dawn

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>From: "C M" <caithlinn@hotmail.com>
>There is a rumour in the German dark age communities that the Thorsberg
>trousers (the better preserved ones) have been redated by C14 to the 
>6th/7th
>century. I have so far been unable to establish any truth in this rumour.
>Nevertheless, there are finds from Haithabu (Hedeby, Northern Germany)
>dating from the 10th century (pure Viking Age) with *exactly* the same
>pattern for a pair of trousers. The missing bits are the trouser legs and
>feet, but the existant remains of the leg parts indicate they were wide, 
>not
>narrow as in the Thorsberg trousers. The rest of the pattern (crotchpieces,
>bum, waistband, beltloops etc) were not only the same pattern, they were
>almost the exact same measurements as well. The pattern seems to have been
>preserved (at least in Northern Germany) for a few centuries then......

I would be interested in learning more about this.  While I have heard that 
this is the case, and therefore is the reason that "Vikings" can wear 
"Thorsbjerg Trousers" (minus the feet), when I have dug through the written 
materials about Hedeby (and Birka for that matter), all I could see were 
scraps of fabric that were vaguely suggestive, but nothing really concrete.

I'm relatively confident that Norse men were wearing trousers with some sort 
of gusset, since there is a reference in one of the Sagas about (something 
to the effect of) a woman getting in trouble for wearing gussetted trousers 
(which could mean either women wore only ungusseted trousers, or no trousers 
at all).

Marc
(and thank you Judy for the mention - I really need to hook that page into 
the rest of the site)


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This got me thinking as well.  I found some old giant buttons that look like rope work.  Gilded in some way they would make great ornaments.  Spray paint...looks like spray paint.  Is anyone familiar with these metallic powders?
Julie

> >The gold powder suggestions really give me ideas. I think I can find gold 
> >leaf easier than I can find gold lipstick.
> 

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As a fairly new member to our group I was asked to teach a class on making basic garb trousers.  When I started researching I couldn't find anything that looks like the baggy long trousers so prevalent at events that I was supposed to teach.  The pants I found were fairly tight and ended near the knee.  Our group starts at 1066 so even stretching to pick up Vikings, there wasn't much out there.

I'd love to hear more on this topic.
Julie
----  <h-costume@indra.com> wrote:

> 
> I would be interested in learning more about this.  While I have heard that 
> this is the case, and therefore is the reason that "Vikings" can wear 
> "Thorsbjerg Trousers" (minus the feet), when I have dug through the written 
> materials about Hedeby (and Birka for that matter), all I could see were 
> scraps of fabric that were vaguely suggestive, but nothing really concrete.
> 
> I'm relatively confident that Norse men were wearing trousers with some sort 
> of gusset, since there is a reference in one of the Sagas about (something 
> to the effect of) a woman getting in trouble for wearing gussetted trousers 
> (which could mean either women wore only ungusseted trousers, or no trousers 
> at all).
> 
> Marc
> 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: M Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] women's shifts/smocks/chemise
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Good Lordy... there's a whole PhD thesis in that question.  ; >   I'll give 
it my best shot - after work... right now... on to meetings.  Bridgette


>I would appreciate a bit of guidance on women's underthings, specifically 
>shifts/ smocks/ chemise and it's evolution from early (6th century) to 
>late (16th century).
>
>The questions revolve around whether they were a holdover in simplified 
>form (basic cut) of an earlier style of outer garment, were derived from 
>contemporary fashion or evolved independently (ie. how did they change 
>with the styles) and the issue of regional variants? Can their evolution 
>be traced from the Coptic tunics that were manufactured and traded as "off 
>the rack" garments in late Roman times? I realize that this is a 
>complicated subject, with no simple answers and little existing evidence, 
>but what are your views?
>
>Pointers to useful references and/or artwork would be particularly 
>helpful. Other than the late smocks in the V&A, I have found very little 
>on the subject.
>
>Thanks.
>Beth Matney

Mari Stewart
Webmaster
College of Veterinary Medicine
Cornell University


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Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 12:18:09 -0700
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From: lilinah@earthlink.net
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Another Kingdom of Heaven question
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Tayla wrote:
>Since I know several of you have seen the movie, I've got a question
>about one of the cloak/mantles that shows up fairly often.  There
>appears to be no clasp, just a mass or band of fabric that sits across
>the top of the chest/shoulders.  You can see the top of this at
>http://www.imdb.com/gallery/ss/0320661/KOH-19.jpg or there's a better
>picture about 11 in on the gallery of the www.kingdomofheavenmovie.com
><http://www.kingdomofheavenmovie.com/>  site, but it's all flash so I
>can't give you a direct link.  I've seen images of this sort of cloak
>before, but how is it constructed?  I assume it's something you pull
>over your head, but the 'mass of fabric at the chest seems to indicate
>more than one layer.  Is it a circle?  Any hits as to the period of such
>a garment?  Anyone who's worn one, how functional a garment is this?

It's a Moroccan selham, also called a burnous in Algeria, a 
not-exactly-semi-circular hooded cloak.

They are worn only by men in Morocco and Algeria. For men in the 
countryside and small towns, they are made, as you could see in the 
film, of loosely-woven wool. Most are beige, but men of a certain 
status can wear white (hajji, i think). Ocassionally one sees them in 
other colors, too. Rich urban men sometimes have custom made matching 
selham and djellaba (a hooded tunic) made of expensive luxurious 
wools with machine embroidery and satin lining.
http://www.folkwear.com/132.html

And those from the southern Berber rural regions, where it is called 
akhnif, are woven to shape on special looms, of hand spun sheep (and 
maybe some goat) hair, very heavy and thick to protect herders out in 
the wilds:
http://www.marlamallett.com/w-2888.htm

But there is a surviving 14th century cloak from the grave of Bishop 
Timotheos that is very similar. It is sewn of narrow pieces of woven 
cloth. It was dark indigo dyed wool lined with madder dyed cotton and 
edged with turquoise-y indigo dyed silk. There's a diagram in:
Elizabeth Grace Crowfoot. The Clothing of a Fourteenth Century Nubian 
Bishop, pp. 43-51.
- in -
Veronika Gervers, ed. Studies in Textile History In memory of Harold 
B. Burnham. Toronto: Royal Ontario Museum, 1977. ISBN 0-88854-192-9.

A diagram and sewing instructions recreating this garment of pieced 
fabric in 14th c. widths were put together by someone in the SCA 
(SCA: Master Rashid/mundane: Charles Mellor) and only available to 
members of a list oriented to the Mamluk period (1250-1517 ruled, 
governed for about 2 more centuries, in Egypt and the Levant):
[http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mamluk_history/files/Timotheos%27%20Tunic%20%26%20Pants/]
But i will be putting them up, with his permission, on my website 
later this week or early next week, where the information will be 
more accessible to historic costumers.

The problems i have with the selham in Kingdom of Heaven are (1.) in 
the film it was worn by women, when as far as i can tell it was only 
a man's garment in the 14th c.; (2.) i've no information on them 
being worn in the 12th century; and (3.) i have never heard of this 
type of garment being worn in what is now 
Syria/Lebanon/Israel-Palestine

When i was in Morocco in Dec. 2000-Jan 2001, i never saw a Moroccan 
woman wearing a selham/burnous, and in fact, i only saw them worn (by 
men) south of the Atlas Mountains - where parts of "Kingdom of 
Heaven" were filmed - the Atlas are those snow covered mountains in 
the background of some scenes, especially when Balian was at his 
father's "castle".

Anahita
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Trousers
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On Wednesday 11 May 2005 11:40 am, C M wrote:
> Hi,
>
> There is a rumour in the German dark age communities that the Thorsberg
> trousers (the better preserved ones) have been redated by C14 to the
> 6th/7th century. I have so far been unable to establish any truth in this
> rumour. Nevertheless, there are finds from Haithabu (Hedeby, Northern
> Germany) dating from the 10th century (pure Viking Age) with *exactly* the
> same pattern for a pair of trousers.

I'd love to see those.  Do you remember where you came across this 
information?


> The missing bits are the trouser legs 
> and feet, but the existant remains of the leg parts indicate they were
> wide, not narrow as in the Thorsberg trousers.

If the existing remains of the trousers show the legs were *wide*, and not 
narrow, it's not "exactly the same pattern."  :-)


> The rest of the pattern 
> (crotchpieces, bum, waistband, beltloops etc) were not only the same
> pattern,

I can certainly believe that there was substantial similarity of pattern in 
the uppermost parts of pants (not going to try to use a technical term on 
this one), even over centuries....

> they were almost the exact same measurements as well. 

That's a bit hard to believe, but I suppose it's no more incredible than when 
a flipped coin comes up heads 50 times in a row--within the law of 
probability, but not the usual result.



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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Subject: [h-cost] More costume notes 1662; the King's suit
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Sunday 11 May 1662

http://www.pepysdiary.com/archive/1662/05/11/index.php

(Lords day). To our church in the morning, where, our Minister being 
out of town, a dull, flat Presbiter preached. Dined at home, and my 
wifes brother with us, we having a good dish of stewed beef of Janes 
own dressing, which was well done, and a piece of sturgeon of a barrel 
sent me by Captain Cocke.

In the afternoon to White Hall; and there walked an hour or two in the 
Park, where I saw the King now out of mourning, in a suit laced with 
gold and silver, which it was said was out of fashion. Thence to the 
Wardrobe; and there consulted with the ladies about our going to Hampton 
Court to-morrow, and thence home, and after settled business there my 
wife and I to the Wardrobe, and there we lay all night in Captain 
Ferrers chambers, but the bed so soft that I could not sleep that hot 
night.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

The SCA is very tolerant of all types, including the ones that refuse to 
take their meds.  -- Anton of Winteroak
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] women's shifts/smocks/chemise
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It is a very good booklet (I'm glad that it is still in print), but I was 
hoping for a bit more.....

Beth

At 06:25 PM 5/11/2005, you wrote:
>Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 11:39:42 -0700
>From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] women's shifts/smocks/chemise
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>
>There is a wonderful little book on this topic titled _Cut My Cote_, by
>Dorothy Burnham, published by the Royal Ontario Museum. It includes
>patterns taken from historic shirts and shifts, as well as a dicussion
>of the evolution of cut.
>
>Fran
>Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming

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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] women's shifts/smocks/chemise
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So I'll put you down on the side of independently evolved from the Coptic 
tunic, influenced by contemporary fashion?

I had hoped that someone had continued on Dorothy Burnham's work in this area.

Beth

At 06:25 PM 5/11/2005, you wrote:
>Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 13:27:13 -0700
>From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] women's shifts/smocks/chemise
>To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>
> >I would appreciate a bit of guidance on women's underthings, specifically
> >shifts/ smocks/ chemise and it's evolution from early (6th century) to
> >late (16th century).
> >
> >The questions revolve around whether they were a holdover in simplified
> >form (basic cut) of an earlier style of outer garment, were derived from
> >contemporary fashion or evolved independently (ie. how did they change
> >with the styles) and the issue of regional variants? Can their evolution
> >be traced from the Coptic tunics that were manufactured and traded as "off
> >the rack" garments in late Roman times? I realize that this is a
> >complicated subject, with no simple answers and little existing evidence,
> >but what are your views?
> >
> >Pointers to useful references and/or artwork would be particularly
> >helpful. Other than the late smocks in the V&A, I have found very little
> >on the subject.
>
>Go for a book called _Cut My Cote_.  It shows many centuries of garments,
>and undergarments, using variations of a simple rectangles-and-triangles
>cut.  Certainly those late smocks in the V&A all use variations of this
>cut.  The exact shape of the neckline will vary depending on what the
>fashionable dress neckline is doing.  The exact fullness of sleeve will
>vary depending on what width the fashionable dress sleeves have.  And there
>are a couple of different ways to do an underarm gusset.  But I'd say all
>of these were cut really similarly, especially when contrasted with how the
>corresponding outer garments were cut.
>
>         CarolynKayta Barrows

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Yep...just not me. I look forward to your comments.

Beth

At 06:25 PM 5/11/2005, you wrote:
>Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 14:26:26 -0400
>From: M Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] women's shifts/smocks/chemise
>
>Good Lordy... there's a whole PhD thesis in that question.  ; >   I'll give
>it my best shot - after work... right now... on to meetings.  Bridgette

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Colonial House/Pioneer House reviews?
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Hi. The clothing was made by the folks at Plimoth Plantation or under 
their supervision, so it is well done, but, as they say, you can dress 
up a pig, but you can't put him on television without him making an ass 
of himself  ;)   The "ladies" mostly refused to wear caps, the men were 
usually underdressed (although, to be fair, they were engaged in some 
heavy labor), and only the fellow that came in to rescue them (the 
Factor) seemed to be comfortable wearing the clothing. I think that, for 
the sake of television, the people were not properly trained or allowed 
to become accustomed to much, so that they squirmed alot, giving the 
audience what they wanted (I wouldn't wear that, do that, wash that, 
chop that, listen to that, etc.) You are better off going to the Plimoth 
Plantation website and seeing folks that are comfortable in their 
clothing. 17th Cent clothing falls differently and has different stress 
points than modern clothing, so folks that aren't used to it can 
actually become tired wearing it (aside from the extra layers issues, 
etc.)  Mike T.


>
>Channel 4 in the UK is about to run a series called
>'Pioneer House' which I belive was shown last year on
>PBS in the US as 'Colonial House' - boring personality
>squabbles aside, the big question is: is the costuming
>worth tuning in for?  I've not made anything 17C yet
>but am interested to see how practical/comfortable the
>clothing would be.
>
>  
>
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I'm not sure which one you saw reviewed, but I have a Black and Decker 
360 'Quick & Easy' model that I picked up cheap at some retail store 
over 6 years ago, and it's been problem free for me the whole time. It 
seems to have some sort of coating on the base because I iron (ie. melt) 
tape, stitch-witchery and other stuff you're not supposed to and it 
always peels off when the base plate cools down. I'd recommend it, based 
on my experience. I use it daily in my sewing, weekly on household stuff.


Dawn




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Oh, the things you see when you don't have your shotgun...  ;)   Mike T.

> IMO, the main difference:  when I went to my first Ren Fair last year, 
> a girl flitted up to me - her skin was tinted green, she was wearing 
> some sort of gauzy "tinkerbell" costume complete with wings - and she 
> asked me if I would like to be sprinkled with fairy dust.
>
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Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 18:55:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Good irons?
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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> Hi,
> I'm in the market for a new electric steam iron. My old one is a lovely
> shade of "Harvest Gold", which tells you how old it is, plus, about 10
> years ago I melted the lid of a yogurt container on the base plate. Anyway
> I have been squinting at the Consumer Reports listings, but I get the
> feeling CR's testers don't actually iron that much, as their criteria are
> kind of weird. So their first choice is a Black and Decker model that the
> user reviews on Amazon.com found unreliable and problematic. Thus, I turn
> to you: has anybody got an iron to recommend? I use mine for three things:
> to iron existing clothes; to press seams, edges, and other tricky parts
> when constructing garments, and sometimes to put a little gentle fulling
> onto handwoven wools. How these purposes align with CR's "Ironing"
> "Steaming" and "Glide" is a little unclear. Also everybody seems to hate
> an iron that drips water on clothes at lower temperatures, but given the
> nature of steam and condensation I'm not sure !
>  there's a whole lot a manufacturer can do to prevent it. Anyway, your
> advice gratefully entertained.

Lauren,

You may want to search the archives because there was a fairly recent
discussion about irons on the list.

My long and short answer is *do* buy a heavy one. Much of the work of
ironing is pressing the iron down and the heavier the iron, the more work
it does for you.  Rowenta and Braun both make heavy irons (I saw the Braun
ones at my local Bed, Bath & Beyond).  I like my Rowenta but I am now
putting filtered water in it because it gets mineral build-up pretty bad. 
I guess if you use the self-clean mechanism often it wouldn't be a problem
but I guess I am lazy :~>

And I agree with you about the consumer reports article!

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume Magazines
Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 21:55:34 -0400
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Status: RO

And who would your market be?  Reenactors are looking for different things than sci-fi costumers, for example---could a magazine be varied enough and at the same time in-depth enough to appeal to costumers across the spectrum?

  So while I agree that it would be very nice to have a good costume 
  consumer magazine, this is not a great climate for starting one.  Not 
  that no one should do it, but I wouldn't touch the project with the 
  proverbial ten-foot pole.

  Fran
  Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
  http://www.lavoltapress.com<http://www.lavoltapress.com/>




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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed May 11 22:09:39 2005
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Fran,

Thank you for your in-depth input.  I agree with you whole-hearted.

Another method  that magazines are doing to build a higher subscriber volume 
is a partnership with airline frequent flyer programs.  I think we are 
receiving about 30 magazines currently a month by trading in our frequent 
flyer miles.  We ordered the magazines for ourselves and giving them as 
gifts to our adult children.  It has been a wonderful way to test if the 
kids want them as birthday and Christmas gifts.  My Mr. Money Bags son's 
receives Forbes magazine from us.  Whenever I give him the issue, I tell him 
"Happy Birthday!"  My son feels like we are celebrating/remembering his 
birthday every month.

One of my favorite magazines that does well and is inexpensive is W.  It is 
always thick and has tons of full color ads.  The subscription rate is so 
much cheaper than other magazines... like $14.95 a year.  I love their ads, 
they are always were done and shows the latest from the designers.

As a business, I receive a lot of magazines a month because I receive a 
professional rate.  Some subscriptions are between $5-10 a year.

Back to costume... two of the costume magazines that passed away in the last 
few years, their subscription rate was between $40-50 a year (4-6 issues a 
year).  To me, it is not worth that much money.  These publications were not 
like a regular magazine in size but about the size and thickness of the 
Costume & Dressmaker.

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com 


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed May 11 22:30:13 2005
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From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] SCA v Renfaire   ......Swat that fairy, make 'em scream!
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Ah yes, makes you long for the "good old days". I
remember when So. Calif. RenFaire would comp the
admission fee IF you came dressed period appropriate.
 This added to the "realism" for the mundanes who
didn't wish to dress, you got to show off your garb
and got a little "reward" for your hard work.
 Then "$buck$ "fever hit them. the $Buck$ became more
important to them then apperance,theme,or realism.
Enter Conan, Vulcans, klingons, demons,vampires,goths,
Zebra people,hobbits elves fairies....even Jack from
Jack in the Box fast foods,in doublet & slops.
 3 weeks ago ,i stood disheartened as an entertainer,
dressed in quasi Ren garb said" Dude, I  need a chick
up on the stage, oh I mean "princess" yeah right we're
at the Ren Faire and I'm supposed to talk like..Ren
talk."
    Queen ELizabeth is dead,..in more ways then one.
  If I want fairies I'll go to Comic Con, or Labrynth
of Jareth... leave the 1560's to Elizabeth and
friends...
 Melody
--- michael tartaglio <mikes@dandy.net> wrote:
> Oh, the things you see when you don't have your
> shotgun...  ;)   Mike T.
> 
> > IMO, the main difference:  when I went to my first
> Ren Fair last year, 
> > a girl flitted up to me - her skin was tinted
> green, she was wearing 
> > some sort of gauzy "tinkerbell" costume complete
> with wings - and she 
> > asked me if I would like to be sprinkled with
> fairy dust.
> >
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


	
		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Good irons?
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> My long and short answer is *do* buy a heavy one. Much of the work of
> ironing is pressing the iron down and the heavier the iron, the more work
> it does for you.

True, but there are those of us who can't wield a heavy iron anymore (at the
grand old age of 29!) And so lighter irons do have their uses.

In fact I've been most pleased with a small cheaply made travelling iron. It
gets hot enough to press wrinkles out of all but the most stubborn of
creases (which I then pass on to someone able to deal with a heavy iron.

Ironing spray has been a bit of a blessing as well. Most of those middle
stubborn creases come right out.

I do have a tendancy to prefering easy to iron fabrics anyway, for obvious
reasons if an iron is difficult, so that may be part of why I find a small
light iron easy to use.

Heh, my Oma broke our ironing board a few years ago due to how much she
pressed down on it;)

michaela
http://glittersweet.com



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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Wed May 11 23:14:04 2005
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume Magazines
Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 23:12:58 -0400
Organization: The Costume Gallery
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The costume target audience is vast and I don't think people realize what a 
wide variety of people are interested in costume.  For the past nine years I 
have been keeping statistics on how many people visit my website and have 
talked with our visitors and students.  It amazes me of the various reasons 
people are researching our websites.  Once they are there, they stick around 
for a long time.  I don't share my statistics due to privacy of our 
visitors... as I said before marketing and demographics is my hobby.  But I 
can tell you the following:

Types of visitors:

3rd grade to doctorate students and their teachers.... subject study areas: 
fashion, costume, literature, women's studies, home-school, art history, 
graphic design, sociology,  psychology,  history, different cultures, 
religion, architecture, museum studies, theater, etc.

hobbyist:  reenactors, role-playing, anime, movie fans, actors, 
genealogists, collectors of several types, dance companies, fans of certain 
eras costumes or needlework, history buffs, fans of certain eras of books 
(like Jane Austen), tea societies, Mardi Gras/ Carnival members, bird and 
floral enthusiasts (think of how much birds and flowers are used in 
fashion); holiday costume ideas (such as Christmas, Halloween, president 
days, Carnival/Mardi Gras), quilters, embroiderers, lacemakers, seamstresses

professionals: authors, living history staff, pro. actors, museum curators 
and staff, authors, journalists, screenwriters, playwriters, advertising 
agencies, disc jockeys (trivia questions), game show researchers, tv / film 
researchers, calligraphers, fashion and costume designers, librarians, hair 
stylists, paper doll designers, sculptures, artists, textile designers, 
seamstresses

Areas of interest can go from needlework, etiquette, fabric, style of dress 
to chemical makeup of cosmetics and dyes.

Now this is no way a complete list.  Some memorable visitors:
***a group of doctors wrote the effect of our great grandmothers dressed 
having an influence on the way we act today.  They have been working on this 
project for 15 years.
*** a museum doing an exhibit about birds and why some were close to 
extinction.  They borrowed some of my images of ladies with feathered hats 
for the exhibit.
***Calligraphers/illustrators for a greeting card company... they obtain 
inspiration for their cards.

My point is that the clothing touches so many different types of people for 
different reasons.  The target markets are wide open.  I think the main 
problem is that when these past magazines was that they looked at their 
target market being to small.  I remember one targeted just theater costume 
design instructors.

If you look at the demographics for just reenactors, the scope is not as 
large as some would think.

I have found some other common interests among costume history lovers... 
films, books, genealogy, historic architecture, graveyard art, flowers, and 
cats.  For some reason, these seem to be a common loves among costumers. 
When you talk with a historic costume lovers, and want to talk about other 
things... pick on of those topics.

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume Magazines
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Nancy said,

>And who would your market be?  Reenactors are looking for different 
>things than sci-fi costumers, for example---could a magazine be 
>varied enough and at the same time in-depth enough to appeal to 
>costumers across the spectrum?

      And the flip side - members of each group may complain, "It's 
all full of (whatever they don't do).  There was only one useful 
article in the whole issue."

      We're used to hitting the delete key on this list for any topics 
that don't catch our interest.  It's harder to do that at $10.00 an 
issue. :-)

      -Carol
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu May 12 00:07:46 2005
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] SCA v Renfaire   ......Swat that fairy, make 'em scream!
Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 23:07:03 -0500
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I actually don't mind the fairies. I just wish they would dress them in garb
that the they were portrayed in during 1500s. Which was usually garments
similar to garments worn in that period but with naturistic and/or
otherworldly accents. Not these flimsy Roman togas. At a Ren Fest I went to
there was a young man prancing around in what looked like a frat guy going
to a toga party. :P
Well it's not my RenFaire so I cope.

De

-----Original Message-----
Ah yes, makes you long for the "good old days". I
remember when So. Calif. RenFaire would comp the
admission fee IF you came dressed period appropriate.
 This added to the "realism" for the mundanes who
didn't wish to dress, you got to show off your garb
and got a little "reward" for your hard work.
 Then "$buck$ "fever hit them. the $Buck$ became more
important to them then apperance,theme,or realism.
Enter Conan, Vulcans, klingons, demons,vampires,goths,
Zebra people,hobbits elves fairies....even Jack from
Jack in the Box fast foods,in doublet & slops.
 3 weeks ago ,i stood disheartened as an entertainer,
dressed in quasi Ren garb said" Dude, I  need a chick
up on the stage, oh I mean "princess" yeah right we're
at the Ren Faire and I'm supposed to talk like..Ren
talk."
    Queen ELizabeth is dead,..in more ways then one.
  If I want fairies I'll go to Comic Con, or Labrynth
of Jareth... leave the 1560's to Elizabeth and
friends...
 Melody
--- michael tartaglio <mikes@dandy.net> wrote:
> Oh, the things you see when you don't have your
> shotgun...  ;)   Mike T.
>
> > IMO, the main difference:  when I went to my first
> Ren Fair last year,
> > a girl flitted up to me - her skin was tinted
> green, she was wearing
> > some sort of gauzy "tinkerbell" costume complete
> with wings - and she
> > asked me if I would like to be sprinkled with
> fairy dust.
> >
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>




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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Costume Magazines
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Dear Penny,

All the information you and Fran have provided is valuable and I will save
and consider it.  Would you happen to remember the names of the 4 magazines
you mentioned that died?

I am working on financial backing from a couple of larger companies that
could compliment the magazine well, as well as looking into printing and
other areas of expense.  

As for content, a broad market that encompasses many areas of costuming in
each issue would be appropriate, rather than just a few eras of historical
costuming.  I am thinking that it would include, by section, something for
everyone.

I realize that the caution around this topic is due to the past magazines
not working out.  Readers may have felt slighted when the most recent
magazine didn't pan out.  I can only imagine how Denise must have felt when
she knew she couldn't pay the printer, or release anymore issues, for
whatever reasons.

However, this is a viable opportunity to put out there something a niche
market wants: a quality, reliable publication that celebrates costuming,
while educating people about the many facets of the market.

Becky
http://sewingcity.com


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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Another Kingdom of Heaven question
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 00:19:40 -0400
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On Wednesday 11 May 2005 3:55 pm, lilinah@earthlink.net wrote:
[snip]
>
> On our way out of Merzouga, i picked up two young French hitch
> hikers. After mentioning that we were from California, the young
> woman said that the landscape must be very different from CA. I said
> there were deserts in California and she very clearly did not believe
> me, having another common stereotype, that California is all sunny
> palm-tree lined beaches, which even many Americans hold.

Though if memory serves me, California tends more toward rocky desert than 
sandy ones.  She probably concluded that it's only a "desert" if it's all or 
mostly sand.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 23:13:54 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>, h-costume@net.indra.com
From: Heather Rose Jones <heather.jones@earthlink.net>
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Trousers
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At 1:40 AM +1000 5/12/05, C M wrote:
>Hi,
>
>There is a rumour in the German dark age 
>communities that the Thorsberg trousers (the 
>better preserved ones) have been redated by C14 
>to the 6th/7th century. I have so far been 
>unable to establish any truth in this rumour. 
>Nevertheless, there are finds from Haithabu 
>(Hedeby, Northern Germany) dating from the 10th 
>century (pure Viking Age) with *exactly* the 
>same pattern for a pair of trousers. The missing 
>bits are the trouser legs and feet, but the 
>existant remains of the leg parts indicate they 
>were wide, not narrow as in the Thorsberg 
>trousers. The rest of the pattern (crotchpieces, 
>bum, waistband, beltloops etc) were not only the 
>same pattern, they were almost the exact same 
>measurements as well. The pattern seems to have 
>been preserved (at least in Northern Germany) 
>for a few centuries then......

If that's the case, then they must have found a 
bunch more trouser-bits at Hedeby since the 
publication of Inga Hägg's book.  All that she 
has is a trapezoidal piece of fabric with seams 
at the edges, which she equates with the 
trapezoidal central gusset of the Thorsbjerg 
pants.  Do you know of a publication that 
describes the other pieces you mention?  I've 
always felt that that particular piece was one of 
Hägg's more ... extrapolative ... 
interpretations.  Other pieces that matched other 
parts of the garment would support the theory 
more strongly, but I wasn't aware that any had 
been found and identified.

(I've lately been doing several iterations of an 
class/lecture that starts by passing around 
reconstructions of several of the Hedeby textiles 
-- reconstructed in their fragmentary and 
tattered state -- to stimulate discussion about 
the significant distance between the finds and 
the currently-popular reconstructions that are 
based on them.)

Heather
-- 
--
Heather Rose Jones
heather.jones@earthlink.net

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At 1:40 AM +1000 5/12/05, C M wrote:
>Hi,
>
>There is a rumour in the German dark age 
>communities that the Thorsberg trousers (the 
>better preserved ones) have been redated by C14 
>to the 6th/7th century. I have so far been 
>unable to establish any truth in this rumour. 
>Nevertheless, there are finds from Haithabu 
>(Hedeby, Northern Germany) dating from the 10th 
>century (pure Viking Age) with *exactly* the 
>same pattern for a pair of trousers. The missing 
>bits are the trouser legs and feet, but the 
>existant remains of the leg parts indicate they 
>were wide, not narrow as in the Thorsberg 
>trousers. The rest of the pattern (crotchpieces, 
>bum, waistband, beltloops etc) were not only the 
>same pattern, they were almost the exact same 
>measurements as well. The pattern seems to have 
>been preserved (at least in Northern Germany) 
>for a few centuries then......

If that's the case, then they must have found a 
bunch more trouser-bits at Hedeby since the 
publication of Inga Hägg's book.  All that she 
has is a trapezoidal piece of fabric with seams 
at the edges, which she equates with the 
trapezoidal central gusset of the Thorsbjerg 
pants.  Do you know of a publication that 
describes the other pieces you mention?  I've 
always felt that that particular piece was one of 
Hägg's more ... extrapolative ... 
interpretations.  Other pieces that matched other 
parts of the garment would support the theory 
more strongly, but I wasn't aware that any had 
been found and identified.

(I've lately been doing several iterations of an 
class/lecture that starts by passing around 
reconstructions of several of the Hedeby textiles 
-- reconstructed in their fragmentary and 
tattered state -- to stimulate discussion about 
the significant distance between the finds and 
the currently-popular reconstructions that are 
based on them.)

Heather
-- 
--
Heather Rose Jones
heather.jones@earthlink.net

_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
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Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 17:10:20 +1000
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costume Magazines
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My thoughts - as long as we can find information available on the 
internet, many of us will bypass the magazine rack. How many of us have 
stopped reading the fashion mags in the "dunny" and now sit at the 
computer instead? No long dunny visits by me anymore!! :o)
Aylwen


On Thursday, May 12, 2005, at 01:12 PM, Penny Ladnier wrote:

> The costume target audience is vast and I don't think people realize 
> what a wide variety of people are interested in costume.  For the past 
> nine years I have been keeping statistics on how many people visit my 
> website and have talked with our visitors and students.  It amazes me 
> of the various reasons people are researching our websites.  Once they 
> are there, they stick around for a long time.  I don't share my 
> statistics due to privacy of our visitors... as I said before 
> marketing and demographics is my hobby.  But I can tell you the 
> following:
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Colonial House/Pioneer House reviews?
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I read a bit about what they *don't* show. The tapes are edited, of 
course, and it seems the editors like to show - or at least seem to 
think the audience will prefer - the most contentious parts. When i 
watched Colonial House, they all seemed such slug-a-beds. But after 
reading about what went on that wasn't shown, they really were 
working together and very hard most of the time. I think that what 
makes it to TV is perhaps unfair to the participants - and to us 
viewers, as well.

Anahita
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Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 00:04:32 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] women's shifts/smocks/chemise
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>So I'll put you down on the side of independently evolved from the Coptic 
>tunic, influenced by contemporary fashion?


Necklines and sleeves of underwear are always influenced by contemporary 
fashion.  But Elizabethan shifts and Coptic tunics probably share a common 
ancestor.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Good irons?
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 08:02:25 -0400
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There is a tiny tube of a special paste (Ironoff?) available in most
hardware stores, JoAnns or from Clotilde that will get the gunk off in no
time.  Just squirt it in a piece of old terry, turn the iron on high and
iron over the paste until the solaplate is clean.  Also, I have just gotten
some "Clean sheets" from one of the catalogue purveyors that claim they do
the same thing...but haven't tried them out yet.  Then you get a teflon
pressing sheet from Clotilde to use when you have potentially sticky jobs to
perform! This pressing sheet is a wonder!  It is somewhat opaque, looks like
a plain heavy plastic sheet (about18x14?) but it doesn't melt! I find it
nice to have handy for appliques or just on poly fiber fabrics that might
want more heat than 'silk'.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dawn" <dawn@reddawn.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2005 9:47 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Good irons?


> I'm not sure which one you saw reviewed, but I have a Black and Decker
> 360 'Quick & Easy' model that I picked up cheap at some retail store
> over 6 years ago, and it's been problem free for me the whole time. It
> seems to have some sort of coating on the base because I iron (ie. melt)
> tape, stitch-witchery and other stuff you're not supposed to and it
> always peels off when the base plate cools down. I'd recommend it, based
> on my experience. I use it daily in my sewing, weekly on household stuff.
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
>
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Good irons?
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 08:04:39 -0400
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Rowenta is my choice, too.  I am using my third in about 25 years. I like
the weight, the burst of steam and the self cleaning feature.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2005 9:55 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Good irons?


>
> > Hi,
> > I'm in the market for a new electric steam iron. My old one is a lovely
> > shade of "Harvest Gold", which tells you how old it is, plus, about 10
> > years ago I melted the lid of a yogurt container on the base plate.
Anyway
> > I have been squinting at the Consumer Reports listings, but I get the
> > feeling CR's testers don't actually iron that much, as their criteria
are
> > kind of weird. So their first choice is a Black and Decker model that
the
> > user reviews on Amazon.com found unreliable and problematic. Thus, I
turn
> > to you: has anybody got an iron to recommend? I use mine for three
things:
> > to iron existing clothes; to press seams, edges, and other tricky parts
> > when constructing garments, and sometimes to put a little gentle fulling
> > onto handwoven wools. How these purposes align with CR's "Ironing"
> > "Steaming" and "Glide" is a little unclear. Also everybody seems to hate
> > an iron that drips water on clothes at lower temperatures, but given the
> > nature of steam and condensation I'm not sure !
> >  there's a whole lot a manufacturer can do to prevent it. Anyway, your
> > advice gratefully entertained.
>
> Lauren,
>
> You may want to search the archives because there was a fairly recent
> discussion about irons on the list.
>
> My long and short answer is *do* buy a heavy one. Much of the work of
> ironing is pressing the iron down and the heavier the iron, the more work
> it does for you.  Rowenta and Braun both make heavy irons (I saw the Braun
> ones at my local Bed, Bath & Beyond).  I like my Rowenta but I am now
> putting filtered water in it because it gets mineral build-up pretty bad.
> I guess if you use the self-clean mechanism often it wouldn't be a problem
> but I guess I am lazy :~>
>
> And I agree with you about the consumer reports article!
>
> Diana
>
> www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
> "Everything for the Costumer"
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Good irons?
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 08:08:02 -0400
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And always remember spray starch!  Never did convince my mother, but Easy On
or Niagara (my favorite) take hours off any ironing day!!

Kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2005 10:33 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Good irons?


> > My long and short answer is *do* buy a heavy one. Much of the work of
> > ironing is pressing the iron down and the heavier the iron, the more
work
> > it does for you.
>
> True, but there are those of us who can't wield a heavy iron anymore (at
the
> grand old age of 29!) And so lighter irons do have their uses.
>
> In fact I've been most pleased with a small cheaply made travelling iron.
It
> gets hot enough to press wrinkles out of all but the most stubborn of
> creases (which I then pass on to someone able to deal with a heavy iron.
>
> Ironing spray has been a bit of a blessing as well. Most of those middle
> stubborn creases come right out.
>
> I do have a tendancy to prefering easy to iron fabrics anyway, for obvious
> reasons if an iron is difficult, so that may be part of why I find a small
> light iron easy to use.
>
> Heh, my Oma broke our ironing board a few years ago due to how much she
> pressed down on it;)
>
> michaela
> http://glittersweet.com
>
>
>
> -- 
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From: "Lloyd Mitchell" <rmitchell@washjeff.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <a06110400bea8aeb5c912@[4.243.119.170]>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Colonial House/Pioneer House reviews?
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 08:12:45 -0400
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As with all these series, I object to the director-editors who spend time
seeking out misfits in a cast or conflicts between individuals that have no
meaning or bearing on the period being scrutinized and play these up to the
omission of pertinent material.

Kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <lilinah@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2005 2:59 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Colonial House/Pioneer House reviews?


> I read a bit about what they *don't* show. The tapes are edited, of
> course, and it seems the editors like to show - or at least seem to
> think the audience will prefer - the most contentious parts. When i
> watched Colonial House, they all seemed such slug-a-beds. But after
> reading about what went on that wasn't shown, they really were
> working together and very hard most of the time. I think that what
> makes it to TV is perhaps unfair to the participants - and to us
> viewers, as well.
>
> Anahita
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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.
>>> rmitchell@washjeff.edu 12/05/2005 13:12 >>> wrote:
>As with all these series, I object to the director-editors who spend time
>seeking out misfits in a cast or conflicts between individuals that have no
>meaning or bearing on the period being scrutinized and play these up to the
>omission of pertinent material.

>Kathleen

I agree. In the "Edwardian House", one of the kitchenmaids left on the first day, saying she hadn't realised the work would be so hard. As it would appear to be a waste of everyone's time not to brief participants properly, one wonders whether the incident was deliberately staged.





Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Colonial House/Pioneer House reviews?
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> As with all these series, I object to the director-editors who spend time
> seeking out misfits in a cast or conflicts between individuals that have 
> no
> meaning or bearing on the period being scrutinized and play these up to 
> the
> omission of pertinent material.


This is exactly right, and I think the program officials are wrong. I know 
many, many people who like to watch these shows and every one has mentioned 
disliking all the bickering and modern concepts that are introduced.  It's 
pretty obvious that the producers are picking groups and families that would 
be at odds with each other in any circumstances, not just the stress of 
living in a time of unaccustomed hardship.

I don't understand why people who would never dream of getting dirty or 
"doing without" would even apply for spot on these shows.  My family applied 
to be a part of the one shot in Maine. We farm, we keep bees, sugar the 
maples, know how to sew and milk cows/goats, garden, make do and do without. 
We didn't even get a second contact.  They *want* people to fail because 
they think it makes better television.  The people who like that kind of 
program are watching Fear Factor, not PTV.  In my opinion.

Denise in Iowa 

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Subject: [h-cost] Re:  SCA v Renfaire   ......Swat that fairy,
	make 'em scream
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Well it's not my RenFaire so I cope.

De
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>..
Sigh, I wish I could say that.  The 'scenario' for ours this year is
the Hunchback of Notre Dame.  Word is they may even make it a musical
and might use canned music.  Sigh.

At least there are a few folks that care, I've already been contacted
by a merchant who wants a good middle-class ensemble. And I have the
husband trained, he's decided that 100% linen, period constructed shirts
are the most comfortable :).

Catherine

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Speaking of pale skinned dolls.  I just discovered the "new" (to me) 
resin ball jointed dolls like Volk's Dollfie.  I was playing around with 
one yesterday to make a pattern.  The dolls are super articulated and 
wow can you position them!  I didn't think I could get excited about a 
non-cloth doll, but these are way cool!  And perfect for a clod like me 
who should never be around glass or porcelin!   They are VERY pricey, 
but I might have to save up some $ for at least one.  I think I want 
mine to look like a cross between Johnny Depp and Kate Winslet!

Saragrace

Abel, Cynthia wrote:

> 
> Carolyn:
>  
>
>>Thanks all for the info, interesting.  I think I will try the 
>>second-hand stores, but for something bigger than Barbie -- too little.
>>    
>>
>
> Thanks for the thanks on the info I shared. Barbie is too little(just
>try fitting the multi-layer sleeves of the 1530s-1540s on these dolls),
>but patterns to tweak and redesign are readily out there and cheap
>during pattern sales at stores like Hancock Fabrics and JoAnns Fabrics
>and Crafts. 
>
>I now collect some of the 16" tall fashion dolls, like Tyler Wentworth,
>but these girls aren't cheap. Years ago, Toys R Us had a line of quality
>dolls for girls called "Young Lady So Beautiful." They were about 15"
>tall,and made of a nice vinyl and built a lot like the larger Salvation
>Army issue lady-type dolls I remember as a child. The hair was wigged
>not rooted and the eyes were a glastic, type of very good quality. Hair,
>eye and outfit colors and styles varied. They retailed originally for
>$30 apiece and I scooped up four when the line was discontinued after a
>year at $10 each.
>
>Regretfully now, I dressed one in an 1880's style ball gown(complete
>with bustle pad underneath) in white as a bride and donated her to the
>Salvation Army, thinking I could pick up more of these dolls some other
>time. She was great fun to dress as she had rather realistic
>proportions--about double body measurements of a Barbie, so I could do a
>lot of detail work and use larger scale fabrics--actually they were
>still pretty small scale on the doll.
>
>Took a peek at your website--Miranda Goshawk, huh?  A co-worker and I
>dressed as Hermione and Miranda for about four years every Halloween at
>work. I actually visualize Miranda as a 16th or 17th century lady whose
>"Standard Books of Spells series" has been required reading at Hogwarts
>for the last 300-400 years. Would love to know her real history from JK
>Rowling. I hope she does a book on how she created the world of Harry
>Potter--I've seen a couple of specials that have shown her own notes and
>illustrations, so such a book would be such fun.
>
>Cindy Abel, ILL Coordinator
>hslill@creighton.edu 
>CUMC Health Sciences Library
>Creighton University
>2500 California
>Omaha NE 68178-0210
>402-280-5144
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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>  
>
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From: Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] polymer clay powder question
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Haven't used the powders, but gold leafing is easy enough to do and you can do it with a "gold leaf" that isn't really gold, but looks like it so it isn't expensive.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- Julie <jtknits@jtknits.cts.com> wrote:

From: Julie <jtknits@jtknits.cts.com>
Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 11:14:27 -0700 (PDT)
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] polymer clay powder question

This got me thinking as well.  I found some old giant buttons that look like rope work.  Gilded in some way they would make great ornaments.  Spray paint...looks like spray paint.  Is anyone familiar with these metallic powders?
Julie

> >The gold powder suggestions really give me ideas. I think I can find gold 
> >leaf easier than I can find gold lipstick.
> 

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 Yes, I've heard of the Dollfies. The magazines Haute Doll and
FDQ:Fashion Doll Quarterly have run several articles on them.  But even
the littlest are super-expensive for me--my dream is to have enough
money to fall from trees, not to go to London, Bath, and anywhere else
in the UK to view costume collections and haunt fabric shops, but to go
to the Volks super factory in Japan and custom create and adopt my own
Super Dollfie 13.

Cindy

Speaking of pale skinned dolls.  I just discovered the "new" (to me)
resin ball jointed dolls like Volk's Dollfie.  I was playing around with
one yesterday to make a pattern.  The dolls are super articulated and
wow can you position them!  I didn't think I could get excited about a
non-cloth doll, but these are way cool!  And perfect for a clod like me 
who should never be around glass or porcelin!   They are VERY pricey, 
but I might have to save up some $ for at least one.  I think I want
mine to look like a cross between Johnny Depp and Kate Winslet!

 

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 I agree, but the guess the idea is to take people most rooted in modern
life, throw them into a recreated past and film what happens. Then edit
it down into an entertainment show for the masses. Even for PBS, you
gotta have buzz and ratings of some sort.

What I would like to see is some sort of mix between reenactors who
would insist on doing everything correctly, interested amateurs, like
myself and probably a good portion of the list membership who would want
to experience actually living and surviving in a past time as close as
we could come sans time machine, and the willing but clueless who of
course, represent the mass audience, who complain and rebel.

Talk about ratings! Talk about sparks flying!

Cindy Abel

> As with all these series, I object to the director-editors who spend 
> time seeking out misfits in a cast or conflicts between individuals 
> that have no meaning or bearing on the period being scrutinized and 
> play these up to the omission of pertinent material.


This is exactly right, and I think the program officials are wrong. I
know many, many people who like to watch these shows and every one has
mentioned disliking all the bickering and modern concepts that are
introduced.  It's pretty obvious that the producers are picking groups
and families that would be at odds with each other in any circumstances,
not just the stress of living in a time of unaccustomed hardship.

I don't understand why people who would never dream of getting dirty or
"doing without" would even apply for spot on these shows.  My family
applied to be a part of the one shot in Maine. We farm, we keep bees,
sugar the maples, know how to sew and milk cows/goats, garden, make do
and do without. 
We didn't even get a second contact.  They *want* people to fail because
they think it makes better television.  The people who like that kind of
program are watching Fear Factor, not PTV.  In my opinion.

Denise in Iowa 

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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] women's shifts/smocks/chemise
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 15:16:28 +0000
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Hello!  I'd be interested in this too!  I have cut of my cote as well, and would *love* something beyond that lovely bit too!

Thank you!

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> 
> Good Lordy... there's a whole PhD thesis in that question. ; > I'll give 
> it my best shot - after work... right now... on to meetings. Bridgette 
> 
> 
> >I would appreciate a bit of guidance on women's underthings, specifically 
> >shifts/ smocks/ chemise and it's evolution from early (6th century) to 
> >late (16th century). 
> > 
> >The questions revolve around whether they were a holdover in simplified 
> >form (basic cut) of an earlier style of outer garment, were derived from 
> >contemporary fashion or evolved independently (ie. how did they change 
> >with the styles) and the issue of regional variants? Can their evolution 
> >be traced from the Coptic tunics that were manufactured and traded as "off 
> >the rack" garments in late Roman times? I realize that this is a 
> >complicated subject, with no simple answers and little existing evidence, 
> >but what are your views? 
> > 
> >Pointers to useful references and/or artwork would be particularly 
> >helpful. Other than the late smocks in the V&A, I have found very little 
> >on the subject. 
> > 
> >Thanks. 
> >Beth Matney 
> 
> Mari Stewart 
> Webmaster 
> College of Veterinary Medicine 
> Cornell University 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
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Mike Tartaglio wrote:

> Hi. The clothing was made by the folks at Plimoth Plantation or under
> their supervision, so it is well done, but, as they say, you can dress
> up a pig, but you can't put him on television without him making an ass
> of himself  ;) 

Ha ha Mike! You made my day with that one. It is TOO TRUE.

Gail Fink

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References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10504251719540.22665-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
	<1a1401c54b79$5c2dd240$e7627dc7@MICHELLE>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] re: linings, medieval patterns?
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 12:38:01 -0400
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> Or is there any other pattern you'd recommend to a sewing newbie
> who would like to have a fairly correct silhouette?

I know I'm late answering this, but try www.reconstructinghistory.com or 
http://www3.sympatico.ca/gousse-matte/fdl/Patterns.html

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From: purplkat@optonline.net
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Good irons?
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I'll put in my 2 cents here --

My favorite is Black & Decker.
No frills, good construction, medium weight (not too light - not too heavy), good steam coverage, easy to use.

I bought one in 1986 to take to college. It broke only once (in '96 IIRC) - and that was the temperature knob, and the B&D store replaced the iron for free!
Just this week I had to throw out that iron - It finally stopped working altogether.
So I'm on the hunt for another B&D iron. I think that paying $32 for over 19 years of service is a good investment. 

Katheryne
ps - the statement about spray-starch is correct. I use Niagara and it is a wonder!!!

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	<5.1.0.14.2.20050508191124.014d7980@127.0.0.1>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kingdom of Heaven - tangent
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> Not quite late enough I know, but some people seem to think that the 
> "Bayeux Tapestry" shows Norman knights and foot soldiers in trousers.

Uh, well... IMHO they're almost childish drawings, just lines basically, and 
it would be pretty hard to judge from them if the legwear was tight-fitting 
or not, unless you examine elements other than tightness of the legwear. Not 
to mention that the characters are small. The tapestry is 2 ft high. (And 
something like 207 long, iirc :-) It was embroidered, not woven, with little 
consideration for colour-matching, except that skin is often and chainmail a 
kind of pale blue-green.

>From what I've seen/heard so far, hose wasn't necessarily skin-tight, not 
the way leggings are today, so they might easily be mistaken for trousers on 
that kind of tapestry. Or trousers might be mistaken for hose :-) I'm really 
not an expert in the period. I'm just saying that the Bayeux tapestry might 
not be the most efficient of sources to look at.

I flipped through my 1/7 size repro of it, and saw nothing that looked like 
trousers. Most look definitely like hose. A lot of them, there's nothing 
that tells me one way or the other. A lot of men have bands on their lower 
legs, as if they had cris-crossed bands, sometimes on the calf, sometimes 
going as low as the ankle, holding their legwear. Some seem bare-legged and 
have their tunics brought up high and between their legs so we can see their 
leg up to the hip. No women, except I think two or three of them in the 
upper and lower bands, and I think they're all naked. Most of the men are in 
armour, some reaching to the ankle, most stopping at the knee, with regular 
legwear sticking out. The only ones I see who could be wearing trousers are 
the archers. But that could be some kind of protective leather garment.

I bet a lot of guys would be very, very glad if we could find a real example 
of trousers in period :-) 
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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re:  SCA v Renfaire   ......Swat that fairy,
	make 'em scream
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 13:12:55 -0500
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Oh thats not training thats common sense. The training is getting him to
wear it in the first place. You go girl!

De

-----Original Message-----
 And I have the
husband trained, he's decided that 100% linen, period constructed shirts
are the most comfortable :).

Catherine


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] SCA v Renfaire
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> I wouldn't call the SCA a re-enactment society, but more of a history club 
> with costumed gatherings.

That's the best definition I've heard in a long time! And yes, I'm SCA :-) 
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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] SCA v Renfaire
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 13:28:44 -0500
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To an extent I would agree. It is more of a recreationist group then an
reinactment group.

De

-----Original Message-----

> I wouldn't call the SCA a re-enactment society, but more of a history club
> with costumed gatherings.

That's the best definition I've heard in a long time! And yes, I'm SCA :-)


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: French costume movies
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>I saw a performance of the play "Cyrano de Bergerac" at ACT in San
(snip)
> into a hanky.  Even though I thought, and still think, the characters are 
> all blithering idiots, lacking even elementary common sense.

Isn't that a common occurence during Romaticism? I think it's all part of 
the "standard" of the period. Makes it more "dramatic", I guess :-)

> I can't find a recording of "Beaumarchais l'Insolent," I just looked.

There's a few copies on Amazon, some in French, some in English. So it 
should exist *somewhere*. I think it's only in VHS though. I hope they make 
a DVD of it at some point. 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] A bit more on the trousers guy
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> "As a further example, jogging pants are actually authentic. People have 
> been wearing loose-fitting cotton breeches with drawstrings since 
> pre-Roman times. You show up wearing nothing but jogging pants, and you're 
> a completely authentic Celt."
>
> -- 
> Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

My guess? He's pulling your leg. Probably trying to test how much he can 
push before you get mad at him. Probably not part of the SCA, but met them 
and thinks they're ridiculous and stupid.

My advice? Just drop it. 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] SCA v Renfaire
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>>I wouldn't call the SCA a re-enactment society, but more of a history 
>>club with costumed gatherings.
>
>That's the best definition I've heard in a long time! And yes, I'm SCA :-)

I do first-person-interpretation docenting, Ren. Faire, and the SCA, 
depending on how I feel like participating.  At Ren. Faire there's plenty 
of scope for playing a historical persona but very little space for doing 
arts and crafts not for sale.  At an SCA event there's plenty of space for 
doing arts and crafts not for sale, but 'nobody' plays a historical 
persona.  At the site where I docent, I can do 19th or early 20th century, 
which I like better anyway, and play a historical persona.  So I do all 
three, and live action role playing when I don't want to do a historical 
persona.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
             ////-@@\\\
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             (((  <> ))))
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Colonial House/Pioneer House reviews?
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Hmm, this little black duck agrees that much of the modern stuff in these shows 
is not pertinant to the re-creation. I can accept that people's opinions must 
be canvassed as they go along but the whole idea of a broadcast camera in your 
face while trying to re-create the 1800s defeats the purpose.

Outside interferance is as inevitable as going to, say, an SCA event and 
hearing a bus drive by.

As a side bar, I recall the instance in the other reality show, Survivor, where 
a contestant fell into a fire and had to be airlifed out - if they were really 
creating a marooned situation, he should have been left in the care of his 
tribe mates.

What I am thinking is that there is no true reality on reality TV shows just as 
I once saw a group of party girls at a Viking re-creation feast asking when the 
dance music came on,

-C.

> > As with all these series, I object to the director-editors who spend time



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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Colonial House/Pioneer House reviews?
Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 03:33:12 +0000
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  The families in every series had an idea beforehand that being away from 
distractions like TV and the internet and the stresses of modern life would 
bring them closer together and give them a calmer life.  The ideal of "the 
good old days" at its worst, really.  I  think it's useful for random 
viewers who might have such romantic notions to think about what might be 
*really* stressful (like having the crop fail, or  living so close to your 
loved ones that you never have privacy).   I thought there was much to be 
learned in each series, mixed among the irritating bits.  The Frontier house 
people did the worst job of living in the clothes (and one of the families 
cheated quite a bit) but I loved the visual of women churning.  Even when 
they were sitting complaining to the personal video cam or chatting with 
each other, that arm was going up and down, up and down, just as in earlier 
times they would have been perpetually spinning.

Laura Dickerson


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Subject: [h-cost] Harper's Weekly
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I found several issues of Harper's Weekly online... 
http://www.sonofthesouth.net/leefoundation/civil-war-1862.htm  It is a really nice website.

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com 
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com 
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From: "Tonkin, Rebecca (PIRSA-SARDI)" <tonkin.rebecca@saugov.sa.gov.au>
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: a good question - cock-pit
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Hi:
The "cock pit" was the place where fighting roosters slugged it out for the
entertainment (and possibly profit, via betting) of the men that went there.
Women, AFAIK, did not visit. It comes under the same sort of thing as bull
and badger-baiting. 
HTH,
Rebecca


> Message: 12
> Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 20:45:45 -0400
> From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] A good question
>
> I am work on reproducing a biography about Sarah Jennings aka 
> Duchess of Marlborough from 1660-1700s.  The book keeps 
> referring to the people of the court going to the cockpit in 
> London.  What is a cockpit?
> 
> <<<no wise-guy answers please.>>>
> 
> Penny Ladnier, owner
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@iimetro.com.au>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Another Kingdom of Heaven question
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 23:01:48 +1000
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<snip>
> On our way out of Merzouga, i picked up two young French hitch
> hikers. After mentioning that we were from California, the young
> woman said that the landscape must be very different from CA. I said
> there were deserts in California and she very clearly did not believe
> me, having another common stereotype, that California is all sunny
> palm-tree lined beaches, which even many Americans hold.
>
> Anahita

Are you telling me Hollywood has been lying to me all these years ;-) I mean
the USA consists of New York, Washington (and there's nobody but politicians
there) and LA plus a few quaint little towns where everybody knows everyone
else and they don't like strangers, the rest is ranches, Right? Surely
Hollywood couldn't be wrong? could it? ;-D
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra, Australia
ewalpole[at]iimetro.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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Becky,

I wish you the best of luck with your new adventure!

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com 
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com 
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Another Kingdom of Heaven question
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You forgot to mention the fact that Chicago is full of gangsters who kill
each other in the street on a regular basis.....and we all carry
Tommy-guns.


Karen
Seamstrix
Writing from Da Sout'side

On Thu, 12 May 2005 23:01:48 +1000 "Elizabeth Walpole" > Are you telling
me Hollywood has been lying to me all these years 
> ;-) I mean
> the USA consists of New York, Washington (and there's nobody but 
> politicians
> there) and LA plus a few quaint little towns where everybody knows 
> everyone
> else and they don't like strangers, the rest is ranches, Right? 
> Surely
> Hollywood couldn't be wrong? could it? ;-D
> Elizabeth
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Another Kingdom of Heaven question
Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 08:20:12 -0500
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Don't forget Texas, where everyone lives like they did on "Dallas".

Talia

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Karen R Bergquist
Sent: Friday, May 13, 2005 7:26 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Another Kingdom of Heaven question


You forgot to mention the fact that Chicago is full of gangsters who kill
each other in the street on a regular basis.....and we all carry
Tommy-guns.


Karen
Seamstrix
Writing from Da Sout'side

On Thu, 12 May 2005 23:01:48 +1000 "Elizabeth Walpole" > Are you telling
me Hollywood has been lying to me all these years 
> ;-) I mean
> the USA consists of New York, Washington (and there's nobody but 
> politicians
> there) and LA plus a few quaint little towns where everybody knows 
> everyone
> else and they don't like strangers, the rest is ranches, Right? 
> Surely
> Hollywood couldn't be wrong? could it? ;-D
> Elizabeth
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From: ruthanneb@mindspring.com
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: a good question - cock-pit
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An earlier reference, but to the same thing, occurs in the Prologue to Shakespeare's Henry V:
"...Can this cockpit hold
The vasty fields of France? Or may we cram
Within this wooden O the very casques
That did affright the air at Agincourt?"

Here Shakespeare calls his Globe a small, round place like those used for cock fights. The Rose, I believe, was used for bear-baiting as well as theatrical productions; I don't know if cock fights took place there, but the association of theater buildings and animal fights might have suggested the "cockpit" image to Shakespeare here.

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-----Original Message-----
From: "Tonkin, Rebecca (PIRSA-SARDI)" <tonkin.rebecca@saugov.sa.gov.au>
Sent: May 13, 2005 2:34 AM
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] RE: a good question - cock-pit

Hi:
The "cock pit" was the place where fighting roosters slugged it out for the
entertainment (and possibly profit, via betting) of the men that went there.
Women, AFAIK, did not visit. It comes under the same sort of thing as bull
and badger-baiting. 
HTH,
Rebecca


> Message: 12
> Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 20:45:45 -0400
> From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] A good question
>
> I am work on reproducing a biography about Sarah Jennings aka 
> Duchess of Marlborough from 1660-1700s.  The book keeps 
> referring to the people of the court going to the cockpit in 
> London.  What is a cockpit?
> 
> <<<no wise-guy answers please.>>>
> 
> Penny Ladnier, owner
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Can someone point me at some books with accurate information as to the origins of the Scottish kilt and the Indian sari? I'm interested in whether there are any similarities in how these garments developed. 
 
Extra credit if you suggest a book I can find at the library. :) 
 
Thanks,
Tea Rose
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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Subject: Subject: [h-cost] A good question
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I am work on reproducing a biography about Sarah Jennings aka Duchess
of Marlborough from 1660-1700s.  The book keeps referring to the
people of the court going to the cockpit in London.  What is a
cockpit?

<<<no wise-guy answers please.>>>

Cockfight occurs in a pit.  It's an extremely lowbrow gambling
opportunity.  It would be interesting to hear/read what the Duchess
had to say about her peers & cockfighting,
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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I believe the term is now "Gangsta'" and the weapon of choice would be a 9 
mm or "deuce deuce" ;-)

                   .
                 /'
                //
            .  //
            |\//7
           /' " \
          .   . .
          | (    \     '._
          |  '._  '    '. '
          /    \'-'_---. ) )
         .              :.'
         |               \
         | .    .   .     .
         ' .    |  |      |
          \^   /_-':     /
          / | |    '\  .'
         / /| |     \\  |
         \ \( )     // /
          \ | |    // /
           L! !   // /   Joan Broneske
            [_]  L[_|    unicorn@surewest.net

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Karen R Bergquist" <penhalion@juno.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, May 13, 2005 5:25 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Another Kingdom of Heaven question


> You forgot to mention the fact that Chicago is full of gangsters who kill
> each other in the street on a regular basis.....and we all carry
> Tommy-guns.
>
>
> Karen
> Seamstrix
> Writing from Da Sout'side
>
> On Thu, 12 May 2005 23:01:48 +1000 "Elizabeth Walpole" > Are you telling
> me Hollywood has been lying to me all these years
>> ;-) I mean
>> the USA consists of New York, Washington (and there's nobody but
>> politicians
>> there) and LA plus a few quaint little towns where everybody knows
>> everyone
>> else and they don't like strangers, the rest is ranches, Right?
>> Surely
>> Hollywood couldn't be wrong? could it? ;-D
>> Elizabeth
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 


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Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 18:36:24 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Subject: [h-cost] A good question
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At 10:16 13/05/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>I am work on reproducing a biography about Sarah Jennings aka Duchess
>of Marlborough from 1660-1700s.  The book keeps referring to the
>people of the court going to the cockpit in London.  What is a
>cockpit?
>
><<<no wise-guy answers please.>>>
>
>Cockfight occurs in a pit.  It's an extremely lowbrow gambling
>opportunity.  It would be interesting to hear/read what the Duchess
>had to say about her peers & cockfighting,


I would query that it is entirely low brow.  Certainly later in the 18th 
and early 19th century, all forms of fighting contests were a draw for the 
"toffs". Cock fighting and bare knuckle fighting come under that banner. If 
the people of the court were going, surely that means that it might have 
been considered low brow but the courtiers went slumming all the same? (You 
still find dogs fights - highly illegal - in South London where I live.)

Suzi


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: trousers
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Hi,

I made a pair of trousers following the remains detailed in the first 
Haithabu publication on textiles (Textilfunde aus dem Hafen von Haithabu, 
Hägg, 1984) and it was quite easy to see how closely they follow the 
original pattern of the pants found in Thorsberg. Apart from the fact that 
the remains of the trouser legs were probably double layers (the fabric was 
*very* fine) and the orientation and structure of the leg remains indicated 
that they were probably wide, not narrow, there was virtually no difference. 
I should have phrased the exactly the same differently, sorry, what I 
meant to say was that the parts that define this particular cut (cause 
others are different) are the same. The same dimensions, however, are not 
that hard to come to terms with, when you assume a similar built of the 
wearer, with the assumption that there might not have been as much physical 
diversity then as there is nowadays (which is clearly an assumption, no 
proof, but a feasible one).

It took me a little time to work it all out (and I am German), but then 
again after all, those publications are not meant to be sewing patterns for 
Living History enthusiasts . There are quite a few pieces of the crotch 
area preserved, not only a triangular piece, in fact, all of the separate 
pieces from the Thorsberg cut are there as well and they can be connected by 
means of thread remains, weave direction, colour and other clues I dont 
remember from the top of my head. It also comes down to reading through the 
text, since the photos and drawings are (unfortunately) not always reliable 
(I have found a few images mixed up). But it definitely is not just a case 
of: well, this triangular piece looks like it could be etc,. A piece of 
scrap fabric that is made up to look like the original remains doesn't 
necessarily show you the connections to other bits that the original had. I 
agree, published opinion makes sometimes big leaps of faith in some cases, 
this one (my own humble opinion) is not one of them.

Other remains of trousers in Haithabu have left less clues, the waistbands 
with beltloops are mostly what remains and there is one other find of creped 
wool in a double layer fabric remains in the settlement, but with no certain 
indication whether or not they belong to trousers apart from the obvious 
similarity in weave and the layers.

I have received a reply to my query about the new C14 dating, but even the 
person I have the rumour from doesnt have anything to back it up and only 
refers to it as a rumour himself ... sorry guys, I will try to track some 
more info, but it might take a while.

Caithlinn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Another Kingdom of Heaven question
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And then there's the Seattle area, where we all wear plaid shirts, listen to 
grunge music, and work for Microsoft! :)

Pam Dotson
Everett, WA (where my husband works for Boeing)
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "khanson" <khanson@kc.rr.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, May 13, 2005 6:20 AM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Another Kingdom of Heaven question


> Don't forget Texas, where everyone lives like they did on "Dallas".
>
> Talia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Karen R Bergquist
> Sent: Friday, May 13, 2005 7:26 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Another Kingdom of Heaven question
>
>
> You forgot to mention the fact that Chicago is full of gangsters who kill
> each other in the street on a regular basis.....and we all carry
> Tommy-guns.
>
>
> Karen
> Seamstrix
> Writing from Da Sout'side
>
> On Thu, 12 May 2005 23:01:48 +1000 "Elizabeth Walpole" > Are you telling
> me Hollywood has been lying to me all these years
>> ;-) I mean
>> the USA consists of New York, Washington (and there's nobody but
>> politicians
>> there) and LA plus a few quaint little towns where everybody knows
>> everyone
>> else and they don't like strangers, the rest is ranches, Right?
>> Surely
>> Hollywood couldn't be wrong? could it? ;-D
>> Elizabeth
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Another Kingdom of Heaven question
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Or Tennessee, where we can't talk good, all go barefoot, don't go no indoor
plumbing and marry our kin.

Susan

Quoting khanson <khanson@kc.rr.com>:

> Don't forget Texas, where everyone lives like they did on "Dallas".
>
> Talia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Karen R Bergquist
>
> You forgot to mention the fact that Chicago is full of gangsters who kill
> each other in the street on a regular basis.....and we all carry
> Tommy-guns.
>
>
> Karen
> Seamstrix
> Writing from Da Sout'side
>
> On Thu, 12 May 2005 23:01:48 +1000 "Elizabeth Walpole" > Are you telling
> me Hollywood has been lying to me all these years
>> ;-) I mean
>> the USA consists of New York, Washington (and there's nobody but
>> politicians
>> there) and LA plus a few quaint little towns where everybody knows
>> everyone
>> else and they don't like strangers, the rest is ranches, Right?
>> Surely
>> Hollywood couldn't be wrong? could it? ;-D
>> Elizabeth

-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Or SW Pa.where belly buttons are in season, allw words ending with "L" have
a silent "w".  Yuns know what I mean?"Willw you go to a stillw millw?"

Kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, May 13, 2005 2:46 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Another Kingdom of Heaven question


> Or Tennessee, where we can't talk good, all go barefoot, don't go no
indoor
> plumbing and marry our kin.
>
> Susan
>
> Quoting khanson <khanson@kc.rr.com>:
>
> > Don't forget Texas, where everyone lives like they did on "Dallas".
> >
> > Talia
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> > Behalf Of Karen R Bergquist
> >
> > You forgot to mention the fact that Chicago is full of gangsters who
kill
> > each other in the street on a regular basis.....and we all carry
> > Tommy-guns.
> >
> >
> > Karen
> > Seamstrix
> > Writing from Da Sout'side
> >
> > On Thu, 12 May 2005 23:01:48 +1000 "Elizabeth Walpole" > Are you telling
> > me Hollywood has been lying to me all these years
> >> ;-) I mean
> >> the USA consists of New York, Washington (and there's nobody but
> >> politicians
> >> there) and LA plus a few quaint little towns where everybody knows
> >> everyone
> >> else and they don't like strangers, the rest is ranches, Right?
> >> Surely
> >> Hollywood couldn't be wrong? could it? ;-D
> >> Elizabeth
>
> -----
> Susan Farmer
> sfarmer@goldsword.com
> University of Tennessee
> Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
> http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kilts and Saris
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hhmm,,,

I'm on another group that talks all about 'draped fabrics' it is .... search, search,,, grumble grumbe....  AH!  idcmembers@yahoogroups.com

you have to be a member of the group to acess the archives - but they give WONDERFUL articles about all kinds of draped clothing from saris to kilts.

Hope this helps.

Katheryne

----- Original Message -----
From: tearoses@aol.com
> Can someone point me at some books with accurate information as to 
> the origins of the Scottish kilt and the Indian sari? I'm interested in whether there are any similarities in how these garments developed. 
>  
> Thanks,
> Tea Rose

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Another Kingdom of Heaven question
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Greetings--

> Or SW Pa.where belly buttons are in season, allw words ending with "L"
have
> a silent "w".  Yuns know what I mean?"Willw you go to a stillw millw?"

Ohio.  Nothing but flat farmland, lots of pickup trucks, and extraneous
"r's" in words.  You know...the capital of the US is Warshington, DC.

I won't even talk about misconceptions of Canada.  You know, dogsled races
and igloos in Toronto, that sort of thing.

Susan
Ohio-bred Ontarian

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Susan Carroll-Clark wrote:

> I won't even talk about misconceptions of Canada.  You know, dogsled races
> and igloos in Toronto, that sort of thing.

Anyone interested in the above line should read this piece of impromptu 
theater about the Great Canadian Wallpaper Festival :

http://www.ealdormere.sca.org/funny_wpaper.shtml

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

The SCA is very tolerant of all types, including the ones that refuse to 
take their meds.  -- Anton of Winteroak
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Tea Rose:

> 
> Can someone point me at some books with accurate information as to 
> the origins of the Scottish kilt and the Indian sari? I'm 
> interested in whether there are any similarities in how these 
> garments developed.

_The Sari_ has some good information about the recent development of the sari.  You might also check out the archives of the SCA_India yahoogroup for bibliographical information.  There are also some good websites on the topic, although the ones that deal with pre-19th century dress tend to foucus on one time/place rather than giving a survey.

Based on what I've read, I don't think that there are a lot of similarities in terms of the development of the actual garment.
As I understand it, the kilt sarted out as a large mantle/blanket thing that eventually starts being pleated into a skirt-like garment, and then the sewn little kilt happens.
The sari, as far as can be told, starts out as something that is always worn draped and pleated into various configurations, including some drapes that are more pants-like.

However, there are some similarities.  Both have become the symbolicly important "national dress" of their country, and in both cases the current "correct" manner of wearing the garment is a 19th century development.

-Katie


-- 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kilts and Saris
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One good book on Sari's is (not surprisingly) "The Sari" by Linda Lynton 
ISBN 0-500-28378-8 Thames and Hudson Publishers. 

The late Chantal Boulanger wrote a classic text on various sari drapes-
"Saris: An Illustrated Guide to the Art of Indian Draping" 
ISBN 0-9661496-1-0  Shakti Press International.

And for a view of the cultural aspects of wearing sari-
"The Sari" by Mukulika Banjeree and Daniel Miller
ISBN1-85973-732-3 Berg Publishing

Sorry, I don' t have any good texts specifically on the history of the
kilt.


Karen 
Seamstrix




On Fri, 13 May 2005 12:49:53 -0400 tearoses@aol.com writes:
> Can someone point me at some books with accurate information as to 
> the origins of the Scottish kilt and the Indian sari? I'm interested 
> in whether there are any similarities in how these garments 
> developed. 
>  
> Extra credit if you suggest a book I can find at the library. :) 
>  
> Thanks,
> Tea Rose
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 
> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Another Kingdom of Heaven question
Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 14:00:35 -0400
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Oh jeez eh? Canada is full of plaid shirt wearing yokels living in permanent
winter, regardless of *where* in the country you are....

Sheridan ;-)
(Damn, gotta let the polar bear outta my igloo again....)

----- Original Message -----
From: "khanson" <khanson@kc.rr.com>


> Don't forget Texas, where everyone lives like they did on "Dallas".
>
> Talia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Karen R Bergquist
>>
>
> You forgot to mention the fact that Chicago is full of gangsters who kill
> each other in the street on a regular basis.....and we all carry
> Tommy-guns.
>
>
> Karen
> Seamstrix
> Writing from Da Sout'side
>
> On Thu, 12 May 2005 23:01:48 +1000 "Elizabeth Walpole" > Are you telling
> me Hollywood has been lying to me all these years
> > ;-) I mean
> > the USA consists of New York, Washington (and there's nobody but
> > politicians
> > there) and LA plus a few quaint little towns where everybody knows
> > everyone
> > else and they don't like strangers, the rest is ranches, Right?
> > Surely
> > Hollywood couldn't be wrong? could it? ;-D
> > Elizabeth


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Hey, wait a minute, Canadians _don't_ commute to work in dogsleds?!?! 
And  don't eat frozen fish out of their own private ice holes behind 
their igloo, sweet igloo in their capital?!?  HRMPH!!

Meanwhile, we folks out here in the San Francisco Bay Area are on the 
verge of falling into the ocean with the next 'quake, hopefully taking 
our cornball politicians/actors with us.  Oh, wait, that would remove 
the comic relief for everybody else in the country/continent!! Nothing 
like gaining perspective for our existence.....EH???

THeresa (feeling slightly wonky after painting on a hottish day) Eacker

Susan Carroll-Clark wrote: (pruning...)

> 
> I won't even talk about misconceptions of Canada.  You know, dogsled races
> and igloos in Toronto, that sort of thing.
> 
> Susan
> Ohio-bred Ontarian
> 
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Speaking of kilts, I've watched the list, and everyone seems to have great, trusted locations to purchase fabrics.  I'm looking for someplace to purchase wool plaids suitable for kilts and in varying weights.  One of the combinations of colors that I'm looking for is  red, black, and gold.  The rest of the group I'm part of is wanting to do more of the natural colors.  If anyone can help me, it would be greatly appreciated.

Astrid of the Horde
Never argue with a Dragon, for thou art crunchy and go well with Brie.



Can someone point me at some books with accurate information as to the origins 
of the Scottish kilt and the Indian sari? I'm interested in whether there are 
any similarities in how these garments developed. 
 
Extra credit if you suggest a book I can find at the library. :) 
 
Thanks,
Tea Rose


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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: Subject: [h-cost] A good question
Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 23:42:11 -0400
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Cynthia,

The whole bio of  Sarah, Duchess of Marlborough is an interesting read.  I 
am sure genealogist will even enjoy it because it provides the lineage on 
several persons in the court..  Sarah was the closest friend of Queen Anne 
and Mistress of the Wardrobes.  You would think that means the keeper of 
Queen Anne's wardrobe. But it is actually a position as the head person in 
charge of the palace.

To me, a person with little education, found it interesting that Sir Winston 
Churchill and Lady Diana Spenser are mentioned in Sarah's biography.  This 
book was published in 1860.

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com 


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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: trousers
Date: Sat, 14 May 2005 00:21:52 -0400
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On Friday 13 May 2005 2:13 pm, C M wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I made a pair of trousers following the remains detailed in the first
> Haithabu publication on textiles (Textilfunde aus dem Hafen von Haithabu,
> Hägg, 1984) and it was quite easy to see how closely they follow the
> original pattern of the pants found in Thorsberg. Apart from the fact
> that the remains of the trouser legs were probably double layers (the
> fabric was *very* fine) and the orientation and structure of the leg
> remains indicated that they were probably wide, not narrow, there was
> virtually no difference. I should have phrased the exactly the same
> differently, sorry, what I meant to say was that the parts that define this
> particular cut (cause others are different) are the same. The same
> dimensions, however, are not that hard to come to terms with, when you
> assume a similar built of the wearer, with the assumption that there might
> not have been as much physical diversity then as there is nowadays (which
> is clearly an assumption, no proof, but a feasible one).

Fair enough.  If I could read German, I would probably try to track down the 
source you cite.  

> I have received a reply to my query about the new C14 dating, but even the
> person I have the rumour from doesnt have anything to back it up and only
> refers to it as a rumour himself ... sorry guys, I will try to track some
> more info, but it might take a while.

Thanks for trying, though.  


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kilts and Saris
Date: Sat, 14 May 2005 01:16:21 -0400
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tearoses@aol.com originally asked:

>Can someone point me at some books with accurate information as to the 
>origins of the Scottish kilt and the Indian sari? I'm interested in whether 
>there are any similarities in how these garments developed. 
 

On Friday 13 May 2005 6:32 pm, Karen R Bergquist wrote:
> One good book on Sari's is (not surprisingly) "The Sari" by Linda Lynton
> ISBN 0-500-28378-8 Thames and Hudson Publishers.
>
> The late Chantal Boulanger wrote a classic text on various sari drapes-
> "Saris: An Illustrated Guide to the Art of Indian Draping"
> ISBN 0-9661496-1-0  Shakti Press International.

I have these two books, and they are really good but they may not be quite 
what the original questioner is looking for.

Lynton's book is full of full-color photographs and is particularly nice for 
getting a feel for the types of color schemes involved in regional 
variations, but I think all of the saris she photographs are 19th-20th c at 
the earliest (I'm not up for heading off to pull books off the shelf at this 
hour--sorry).

Boulanger, on the other hand, was interested in how saris are *draped* in 
different parts of India.  She consulted all kinds of sources to learn about 
drape variations--including traveling through India and asking dozens, if not 
hundreds, of women to show her how they drape their saris.  If you need to 
know the dimensions of a sari used for a particular drape, or how to do the 
drape, or both, her book is a goldmine, but she doesn't have much history in 
there.

The sari is the fundamental garment in India and its precursors go back to 
prehistory.  There appears to be some debate on how long it has been 
customary for women in India to cover their breasts with something when 
wearing one.  

Anyway, I know of two books that deal with the history of Indian costume.  
Both give at least some attention to the historical evolution of the sari.  
I'll just give cites; if you locate them, you can read them and see what you 
think:

Alkazi, Roshen. Ancient Indian Costume. National Book Trust, 1st ed. 1st 
reprint 1998. ISBN 81-237-1687-7.
Covers mostly from prehistoric times to about 11th century. 

Fabri, Charles. Indian Dress. Sangam Books Limited, 1994. ISBN 0 86311 507 1.
Covers from prehistoric times to about the end of the 19th century. 

> And for a view of the cultural aspects of wearing sari-
> "The Sari" by Mukulika Banjeree and Daniel Miller
> ISBN1-85973-732-3 Berg Publishing

I'm not familiar with this book; sorry.

> Sorry, I don' t have any good texts specifically on the history of the
> kilt.


Kass McGann discusses the evolution of the Scottish kilt in some detail on her 
site:

http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/scottish/kilts.html

http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/scottish/beltedplaid.html

http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/scottish/18thckilt.html

(see other subsites under "Scottish" on the Recconstructing History's site 
menu).  

Here is another analysis of the evidence for the great kilt.  This one assumes 
some familiarity with the issues and the problems with the evidence; Kass 
McGann's version is a better one to start with if you are coming to the 
subject with no prior knowledge about historic clothing in Scotland:


http://www.medievalscotland.org/postings/periodbeltedplaid.shtml


In my opinion, the long and short of it is this:  the sari was worn, by men as 
well as women, in various forms in India starting from prehistoric times.  
The short "kilt" on the other hand, as we know it today, was an 18th c 
invention, and the so-called great kilt was essentially nothing more than a 
large piece of fabric used as a overcloak and called a "plaid"; the Irish had 
a similar garment; and any associations with "kilts" being Scottish started 
with the 18th c invention.  

But by all means, read these and other sources on both the sari and the kilt 
(and plaid) and evaluate them for yourself.

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Another Kingdom of Heaven question
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Karen R Bergquist" <penhalion@juno.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, May 13, 2005 10:25 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Another Kingdom of Heaven question


> You forgot to mention the fact that Chicago is full of gangsters who kill
> each other in the street on a regular basis.....and we all carry
> Tommy-guns.
>
>
> Karen
> Seamstrix
> Writing from Da Sout'side

No I believe Chicago ceased to exist c. 1940 when other areas got more
interesting, Texas ceased to exist c. 1900 (except for the ranches) because
the Cowboys and Saloon girls all got married and bought their own ranches.
(those who didn't died in gunfights for the former or a tragic disease for
the latter).  There are of course other cities that popped into existence
fully formed c. 1980 (I can't think of names but I'm sure people who watch
more films than I do can come up with something)

To add my local bit to this discussion, Australians all talk like Steve
Irwin (the crocodile Hunter) live in the outback (Australia of course has no
cities), ride around on their pet Kangaroos and look like they haven't
bathed for weeks.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]iimetro.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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	<42851C4C.2090204@thibault.org>
Subject: Re: Canada Re: [h-cost] Another Kingdom of Heaven question
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Surely the last line should be Tempus Fudge It!
Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cynthia Virtue" <cvirtue+dated+1131571342.3a009b@thibault.org>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, May 13, 2005 5:29 PM
Subject: OT: Canada Re: [h-cost] Another Kingdom of Heaven question


> Susan Carroll-Clark wrote:
>
> > I won't even talk about misconceptions of Canada.  You know, dogsled
races
> > and igloos in Toronto, that sort of thing.
>
> Anyone interested in the above line should read this piece of impromptu
> theater about the Great Canadian Wallpaper Festival :
>
> http://www.ealdormere.sca.org/funny_wpaper.shtml
>
> -- 
> Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent
>
> The SCA is very tolerant of all types, including the ones that refuse to
> take their meds.  -- Anton of Winteroak
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Well, when i lived in France in 1973, someone asked me where i was 
from - i had been living in California and become a citizen of that 
state, but i was born in Chicago. He immediately put his hands in 
front of his torso and went "Pah-pah-pah-pah-pah" and said "les 
gang-stair!" with great relish. He also asked if it was ever possible 
to get fresh fruits and vegetables in the US, since everyone knew 
that all Americans ate was frozen food... Sigh.

Anahita
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Another Kingdom of Heaven question
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When my friend Robin and I were in England a few years back, we stopped
to ask for directions at a pub in a small village (Road signs!! Put the
road signs back up, the Nazis aren't coming!!!!). The guy behind the bar
very cleverly noted that we weren't from around there (accents as flat as
the Midwest we came from) and asked us where were from. When I answered
'We're from Chicago", he proceeded to duck down behind the bar and asked
us not to shoot him.......sigh....we very patiently explained that they
wouldn't let us bring our guns on the plane. Everybody's a
comedian.......


Karen 
Seamstrix





On Sat, 14 May 2005 08:37:57 -0700 lilinah@earthlink.net writes:
> Well, when i lived in France in 1973, someone asked me where i was 
> from - i had been living in California and become a citizen of that 
> 
> state, but i was born in Chicago. He immediately put his hands in 
> front of his torso and went "Pah-pah-pah-pah-pah" and said "les 
> gang-stair!" with great relish. He also asked if it was ever 
> possible 
> to get fresh fruits and vegetables in the US, since everyone knew 
> that all Americans ate was frozen food... Sigh.
> 
> Anahita
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 
> 
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I am planning to make up a pair of gentelman's breeches from the 1780
section of 'The Evolution of Fashion: Pattern and Cut from 1066 to 1930' by
Margot Hamilton and wondered if anyone could give me any advice about how to
go about it.  I have made breeches before, but never from this pattern and I
am a little dubious about them for unknown reasons!

Any experience from any of the other patterns in the book would also be nice
to hear about, as I am planning to use a few of the other patterns in the
future.

Thanks,

Serena
http://www.pemberleydesigns.co.uk


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Never got this to show up, so I'm sending it again --
if it comes up twice, I apologize!  KP

Note: forwarded message attached.


__________________________________________________
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At 17:17 14/05/2005 +0100, you wrote:
>I am planning to make up a pair of gentelman's breeches from the 1780
>section of 'The Evolution of Fashion: Pattern and Cut from 1066 to 1930' by
>Margot Hamilton and wondered if anyone could give me any advice about how to
>go about it.  I have made breeches before, but never from this pattern and I
>am a little dubious about them for unknown reasons!
>
>Any experience from any of the other patterns in the book would also be nice
>to hear about, as I am planning to use a few of the other patterns in the
>future.


I have been unhappy about several of the patterns in this book. The Henry 
Vlll style surcoat/top coat/ whatever is not the way I would make it. It 
is, however, a while since I looked at it. I would recommend you look at 
Norah Waugh's "Cut of Men's Clothes" or "Men's 17th and 18th Century 
Garments" by R.I. Davis before you make any final decision.

Suzi


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Sounds lovely if somewhat hard to find.  Are you having the whole
thing transcribed or just the costume related bits?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

Cynthia,

The whole bio of  Sarah, Duchess of Marlborough is an interesting read...
Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com

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From: "Rhonda Donaldson" <rdonalds@wvu.edu>
To: <ewalpole@iimetro.com.au>, <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Another Kingdom of Heaven question
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and we all know that West Virginia women are always barefoot and
pregnant.  Plus we have no indoor toilets or running water.  Let's not
forget about all chewing tobaccie and livin up the hollas with our
rusting cars on bricks in the front yard.  

Just thought I'd add a bit of my 2 cents

Rhonda

Rhonda Donaldson
LTA II
e-Reserves Jr. Guru in Training
Circulation Department
Downtown Campus Library
P O Box 6069
Morgantown, WV
26506
293-4040 x4094
rhonda.donaldson@mail.wvu.edu

"Without change, something sleeps inside us, and seldom
awakens. The sleeper must awaken."
--Frank Herbert


>>> ewalpole@iimetro.com.au 5/14/2005 6:08:02 AM >>>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Karen R Bergquist" <penhalion@juno.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, May 13, 2005 10:25 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Another Kingdom of Heaven question


> You forgot to mention the fact that Chicago is full of gangsters who
kill
> each other in the street on a regular basis.....and we all carry
> Tommy-guns.
>
>
> Karen
> Seamstrix
> Writing from Da Sout'side

No I believe Chicago ceased to exist c. 1940 when other areas got more
interesting, Texas ceased to exist c. 1900 (except for the ranches)
because
the Cowboys and Saloon girls all got married and bought their own
ranches.
(those who didn't died in gunfights for the former or a tragic disease
for
the latter).  There are of course other cities that popped into
existence
fully formed c. 1980 (I can't think of names but I'm sure people who
watch
more films than I do can come up with something)

To add my local bit to this discussion, Australians all talk like
Steve
Irwin (the crocodile Hunter) live in the outback (Australia of course
has no
cities), ride around on their pet Kangaroos and look like they haven't
bathed for weeks.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]iimetro.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/ 

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From: Kathryn Parke <kjp1685@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A good question
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Cock fighting was just one alternative to bull baiting and bear baiting, another of the hideous blood sports adored by our forebears.  In bull and bear baiting, a bull or bear would be tied to a stake and set upon by dogs (usually mastiffs or something of that ilk -- the English Bulldog was originally bred for this, and was much taller then), although not always until the bull or bear was killed, because bears and bulls were expensive.  They could be killed, of course, but those who lived to fight many fights gained some reknown in their own right, like Sackerson the bear (mentioned in at least one Shakespeare play), and of course the dogs were often killed.  An occasional variant was to tie a monkey to the back of a pony or donkey and set dogs after the terrified twosome -- I'm sure the pony would be killed, and probably the monkey as well, as they weren't as costly to replace.  There was a huge pit for these kinds of contests outside the Globe Theater (or at least near it)!
 , and of
 course there were many others.  The practice continued for some time, and yes, like cock fighting, the nobles loved it -- Elizabeth I was very fond of the "sport."
 
Ick --
KP


Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:
At 10:16 13/05/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>I am work on reproducing a biography about Sarah Jennings aka Duchess
>of Marlborough from 1660-1700s. The book keeps referring to the
>people of the court going to the cockpit in London. What is a
>cockpit?
>
><<>>
>
>Cockfight occurs in a pit. It's an extremely lowbrow gambling
>opportunity. It would be interesting to hear/read what the Duchess
>had to say about her peers & cockfighting,


I would query that it is entirely low brow. Certainly later in the 18th 
and early 19th century, all forms of fighting contests were a draw for the 
"toffs". Cock fighting and bare knuckle fighting come under that banner. If 
the people of the court were going, surely that means that it might have 
been considered low brow but the courtiers went slumming all the same? (You 
still find dogs fights - highly illegal - in South London where I live.)

Suzi


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I sent a message on this a couple of days ago but have not seen it posted.

The Cockpit was the London residence of Princess Anne (to whom Sarah 
Jennings was lady-in-waiting) and Prince George. Their social and 
political circle was known as the Cockpit Circle.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com


>
>I would query that it is entirely low brow.
>  
>


<snip>
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: A good question
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We are typing the entire book, Queens of Society.  After the 1860 and 1862 
publications, the book was divided up into two books and two other books 
were written for etiquette.  This made a set of 4 volumes published around 
1900.  In my 1860 book, there are 17 Queens of Society.  As for Sarah's 
section, there was little mentioned of  the fashions.  One of my assts. is 
typing Madame Roland at the moment.  I am waiting to hear her response about 
it.  What she has said so far, it sounds like it is full of name-dropping 
like the Sarah's section.  I think we will type Madame Recamier next.  She 
was very influential in fashion.

If you all want, I have placed a table of contents below.  Let me know which 
of the other ladies that you would like to see there section typed after 
Recamier.  Whoever receives the most nominations/votes will be the fourth 
Lady of Society to be typed.  Please give a reason why... I have not 
researched the backgrounds but on the three ladies I mentioned.  As I said 
before I am very weak on my European history so any advice would be welcome. 
So your input is appreciated.

BTW, the later versions with the two volumes of Queens of Society is the 
same as my single book.  I guess they just enlarged the font size of the 
type (thank goodness).  I checked that out with some vintage book dealers 
who have copies of the later editions.  If you want to purchase this book, 
do a google search for Queens of Society by Grace and Philip Wharton.  If 
they claim the book is undated, it is from the four volume set from the 
early 1900.  I found the Queens sets around $30-50.  I plan down the road to 
purchase the two volumes about etiquette.

Here is a list of the Table of Contents for "Queens of Society:"
1. Sarah, Duchess of Marlborough
2. Madame Roland
3. Lady Mary Wortley Montagu
4. Letitia Elizabeth Landon, (L.E.L)
5. Madame de Sevigne
6. Sydney Lady Morgan
7. Jane, Duchess of Gordon
8. Madame Recamier
9. Lady Hervey
10. Madame de Stael
11. Mrs. Thrale-Piozzi
12. Lady Caroline Lamb
13. Anne Seymour Damer
14. La Marquise du Deffand
15. Mrs. Elizabeth Montagu
16. Mary, Countess of Pembroke
17. La Marquise de Maintenon

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com 


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Fran,

Thank you, thank you!  Your explanation is more in-line with what was in the 
book!

Now I know what some keywords to search on the web.  I found these articles 
for far:
http://www.geocities.com/henry8jane/GeorgeDenmark.html
http://www.answers.com/topic/prince-george-of-denmark

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com 


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: A good question
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At 23:00 14/05/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>We are typing the entire book, Queens of Society.  After the 1860 and 1862 
>publications, the book was divided up into two books and two other books 
>were written for etiquette.  This made a set of 4 volumes published around 
>1900.  In my 1860 book, there are 17 Queens of Society.  As for Sarah's 
>section, there was little mentioned of  the fashions.  One of my assts. is 
>typing Madame Roland at the moment.  I am waiting to hear her response 
>about it.  What she has said so far, it sounds like it is full of 
>name-dropping like the Sarah's section.  I think we will type Madame 
>Recamier next.  She was very influential in fashion.
>
>If you all want, I have placed a table of contents below.  Let me know 
>which of the other ladies that you would like to see there section typed 
>after Recamier.  Whoever receives the most nominations/votes will be the 
>fourth Lady of Society to be typed.  Please give a reason why... I have 
>not researched the backgrounds but on the three ladies I mentioned.  As I 
>said before I am very weak on my European history so any advice would be 
>welcome. So your input is appreciated.
>
>BTW, the later versions with the two volumes of Queens of Society is the 
>same as my single book.  I guess they just enlarged the font size of the 
>type (thank goodness).  I checked that out with some vintage book dealers 
>who have copies of the later editions.  If you want to purchase this book, 
>do a google search for Queens of Society by Grace and Philip Wharton.  If 
>they claim the book is undated, it is from the four volume set from the 
>early 1900.  I found the Queens sets around $30-50.  I plan down the road 
>to purchase the two volumes about etiquette.
>
>Here is a list of the Table of Contents for "Queens of Society:"
>1. Sarah, Duchess of Marlborough
>2. Madame Roland
>3. Lady Mary Wortley Montagu
>4. Letitia Elizabeth Landon, (L.E.L)
>5. Madame de Sevigne
>6. Sydney Lady Morgan
>7. Jane, Duchess of Gordon
>8. Madame Recamier
>9. Lady Hervey
>10. Madame de Stael
>11. Mrs. Thrale-Piozzi
>12. Lady Caroline Lamb
>13. Anne Seymour Damer
>14. La Marquise du Deffand
>15. Mrs. Elizabeth Montagu
>16. Mary, Countess of Pembroke
>17. La Marquise de Maintenon


Lady Mary Wortley Montague, who I believe was a great traveller, and may 
have been a blue stocking too. I know her name, have seen a portrait,  and 
would like to know more about her.

Or Lady Caroline Lamb, who had a scandalous life, having an affair with 
Lord George Gordon Byron, the poet and a pop star of his era. Caroline was 
married to Lord Melbourne at the time, who later became Queen Victoria's 
first Prime Minister.

Suzi


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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: A good question
Date: Sat, 14 May 2005 21:54:14 -0700
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Ohhhh!!! Lady Mary Wortley Montagu!  Her travels in the Middle East are
legendary.  Dressed in Man's clothing, not as a disguise, but because she
darned well wanted to.  All kinds of things.  Just the kind of woman I love
to read about!  Eloped rather than be married off to a man of her parents
choosing (it wasn't a happy marriage even so.)  She backed the use of the
smallpox vaccination that she had observed in Turkey for English children.

Great Woman.  I would love to read more about her!

Wanda

> >3. Lady Mary Wortley Montagu
> >4. Letitia Elizabeth Landon, (L.E.L)
> >5. Madame de Sevigne
> >6. Sydney Lady Morgan
> >7. Jane, Duchess of Gordon
> >8. Madame Recamier
> >9. Lady Hervey
> >10. Madame de Stael
> >11. Mrs. Thrale-Piozzi
> >12. Lady Caroline Lamb
> >13. Anne Seymour Damer
> >14. La Marquise du Deffand
> >15. Mrs. Elizabeth Montagu
> >16. Mary, Countess of Pembroke
> >17. La Marquise de Maintenon
>
>
> Lady Mary Wortley Montague, who I believe was a great traveller, and may
> have been a blue stocking too. I know her name, have seen a
> portrait,  and
> would like to know more about her.
>
> Or Lady Caroline Lamb, who had a scandalous life, having an affair with
> Lord George Gordon Byron, the poet and a pop star of his era.
> Caroline was
> married to Lord Melbourne at the time, who later became Queen Victoria's
> first Prime Minister.
>
> Suzi
>
>

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	Sun, 15 May 2005 11:26:58 BST
Date: Sun, 15 May 2005 11:26:58 +0100 (BST)
From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I happened to look as this thread by chance, [while triaging my incoming mail queue for the subjects I'm actually researching, and it has caught my attention].
It would be wonderful if someone would put-together - perhaps as a complimentary linked-file on-line, - a selection of contemporary pictures of these ladies - some - if not all - of whom whom reputed to have been ranked amongst the greatest courtesans or "grandes horizontales" of recent history.
I would think that many members of the List following this thread would be fascinated to see what these noteworthy women actually looked like. 
I certainly would like to see all the ladies' pictures gathered in one place - perhaps as a linked, easy-to-access file so that one might go from relevant text to picture and back - speculating what it might have been like to actually meet them and enjoy  experiencing their personalities.
 
Consider, - "witty, brilliant" conversation - the rapier-thrust of quick wit - was a highly-esteemed social skill, in an age which lacked electronic entertainment and people had to make their own. The ability to make such "sparkling conversation" seems to have become a much rarer thing in this Third Millenium, when the generality of people have become accustomed to being entertained, rather than contributing to entertaining, -  as educated persons were accustomed to do in the 17th, 18th, and 19th  Centuries.. 
What did these particular ladies have - besides their looks and "liberated moral attitudes" - to attract and hold the attentions of so many famous people of "their Times".
What was it about their personalities that got them noticed in the first place - and how did so many of them remain "social queens" entertaining the "great and good" of their Times in "brilliant Salons" for so many years - if it wasn't a combination of character, looks, quick wit, and formidable social skills.
They fascinate me, and I'd love to see their pictures.
Regards, 
Julian,
in "Olde" Jersey.

 

		
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Julian, in one of my Book catalogues just yesterday I saw this item
Courtesans: Money, Sex, and Fame in the Nineteenth Century by Katie Hickman
Pub2003, paperback 2004, 363 pages at $14.95
offered byBas Bleu bookseller

Might the link you found be based on this volume?

The cover and title also caught my eye.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "julian wilson" <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2005 6:26 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Re: "Queens of Society" messages


> I happened to look as this thread by chance, [while triaging my incoming
mail queue for the subjects I'm actually researching, and it has caught my
attention].
> It would be wonderful if someone would put-together - perhaps as a
complimentary linked-file on-line, - a selection of contemporary pictures of
these ladies - some - if not all - of whom whom reputed to have been ranked
amongst the greatest courtesans or "grandes horizontales" of recent history.
> I would think that many members of the List following this thread would be
fascinated to see what these noteworthy women actually looked like.
> I certainly would like to see all the ladies' pictures gathered in one
place - perhaps as a linked, easy-to-access file so that one might go from
relevant text to picture and back - speculating what it might have been like
to actually meet them and enjoy  experiencing their personalities.
>
> Consider, - "witty, brilliant" conversation - the rapier-thrust of quick
wit - was a highly-esteemed social skill, in an age which lacked electronic
entertainment and people had to make their own. The ability to make such
"sparkling conversation" seems to have become a much rarer thing in this
Third Millenium, when the generality of people have become accustomed to
being entertained, rather than contributing to entertaining, -  as educated
persons were accustomed to do in the 17th, 18th, and 19th  Centuries..
> What did these particular ladies have - besides their looks and "liberated
moral attitudes" - to attract and hold the attentions of so many famous
people of "their Times".
> What was it about their personalities that got them noticed in the first
place - and how did so many of them remain "social queens" entertaining the
"great and good" of their Times in "brilliant Salons" for so many years - if
it wasn't a combination of character, looks, quick wit, and formidable
social skills.
> They fascinate me, and I'd love to see their pictures.
> Regards,
> Julian,
> in "Olde" Jersey.
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> How much free photo storage do you get? Store your holiday snaps for FREE
with Yahoo! Photos. Get Yahoo! Photos
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: A good question
Date: Sun, 15 May 2005 08:06:47 -0400
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American contributions: As in their own Queen's Society
Mrs. John Jacob Astor
Mrs. Alva Vanderbilt
Mrs. Potter Palmer
Molley Brown (as in the unsinkable)
Mrs. John Gardner (Isabella Stewart)
The Peabody Sisters of Salem
Mrs. John Adams (Abagail Adams)
Carrie Chapman Catt
Mrs. Ima Hogg (Texas)

for starters!

Kathleen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Suzi Clarke" <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2005 12:26 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: A good question


> At 23:00 14/05/2005 -0400, you wrote:
> >We are typing the entire book, Queens of Society.  After the 1860 and
1862
> >publications, the book was divided up into two books and two other books
> >were written for etiquette.  This made a set of 4 volumes published
around
> >1900.  In my 1860 book, there are 17 Queens of Society.  As for Sarah's
> >section, there was little mentioned of  the fashions.  One of my assts.
is
> >typing Madame Roland at the moment.  I am waiting to hear her response
> >about it.  What she has said so far, it sounds like it is full of
> >name-dropping like the Sarah's section.  I think we will type Madame
> >Recamier next.  She was very influential in fashion.
> >
> >If you all want, I have placed a table of contents below.  Let me know
> >which of the other ladies that you would like to see there section typed
> >after Recamier.  Whoever receives the most nominations/votes will be the
> >fourth Lady of Society to be typed.  Please give a reason why... I have
> >not researched the backgrounds but on the three ladies I mentioned.  As I
> >said before I am very weak on my European history so any advice would be
> >welcome. So your input is appreciated.
> >
> >BTW, the later versions with the two volumes of Queens of Society is the
> >same as my single book.  I guess they just enlarged the font size of the
> >type (thank goodness).  I checked that out with some vintage book dealers
> >who have copies of the later editions.  If you want to purchase this
book,
> >do a google search for Queens of Society by Grace and Philip Wharton.  If
> >they claim the book is undated, it is from the four volume set from the
> >early 1900.  I found the Queens sets around $30-50.  I plan down the road
> >to purchase the two volumes about etiquette.
> >
> >Here is a list of the Table of Contents for "Queens of Society:"
> >1. Sarah, Duchess of Marlborough
> >2. Madame Roland
> >3. Lady Mary Wortley Montagu
> >4. Letitia Elizabeth Landon, (L.E.L)
> >5. Madame de Sevigne
> >6. Sydney Lady Morgan
> >7. Jane, Duchess of Gordon
> >8. Madame Recamier
> >9. Lady Hervey
> >10. Madame de Stael
> >11. Mrs. Thrale-Piozzi
> >12. Lady Caroline Lamb
> >13. Anne Seymour Damer
> >14. La Marquise du Deffand
> >15. Mrs. Elizabeth Montagu
> >16. Mary, Countess of Pembroke
> >17. La Marquise de Maintenon
>
>
> Lady Mary Wortley Montague, who I believe was a great traveller, and may
> have been a blue stocking too. I know her name, have seen a portrait,  and
> would like to know more about her.
>
> Or Lady Caroline Lamb, who had a scandalous life, having an affair with
> Lord George Gordon Byron, the poet and a pop star of his era. Caroline was
> married to Lord Melbourne at the time, who later became Queen Victoria's
> first Prime Minister.
>
> Suzi
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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My husband & 4 children & I have watched most of these shows, but gave up 
because of the bickering the participants did.  We used to play a game at 
the supper table where we put our family in the mix and talked about how we 
would do.  I mentioned that there never seems to be any Midwestern farm 
families (like us) on the shows, and my husband said 'of course, because we 
would probably do OK, the kids are used to farm chores and animals, and 
there wouldn't be as much drama.'  Our biggest complaint with the shows is 
how NO ONE stayed in period dress.  If they were uncomfortable, they just 
took it off.  How many of our pioneer grandmas really did that?

But just trying it and finding out stuff would be SO INTERESTING.

Did anyone see the one set in Canada, with only two families?  I thought 
that was the best one, especially as they stayed through the winter.

Berenice


  I agree, but the guess the idea is to take people most rooted in modern
life, throw them into a recreated past and film what happens. Then edit
it down into an entertainment show for the masses. Even for PBS, you
gotta have buzz and ratings of some sort.

What I would like to see is some sort of mix between reenactors who
would insist on doing everything correctly, interested amateurs, like
myself and probably a good portion of the list membership who would want
to experience actually living and surviving in a past time as close as
we could come sans time machine, and the willing but clueless who of
course, represent the mass audience, who complain and rebel.

Talk about ratings! Talk about sparks flying!

Cindy Abel

 > As with all these series, I object to the director-editors who spend
 > time seeking out misfits in a cast or conflicts between individuals
 > that have no meaning or bearing on the period being scrutinized and
 > play these up to the omission of pertinent material.


This is exactly right, and I think the program officials are wrong. I
know many, many people who like to watch these shows and every one has
mentioned disliking all the bickering and modern concepts that are
introduced.  It's pretty obvious that the producers are picking groups
and families that would be at odds with each other in any circumstances,
not just the stress of living in a time of unaccustomed hardship.

I don't understand why people who would never dream of getting dirty or
"doing without" would even apply for spot on these shows.  My family
applied to be a part of the one shot in Maine. We farm, we keep bees,
sugar the maples, know how to sew and milk cows/goats, garden, make do
and do without.
We didn't even get a second contact.  They *want* people to fail because
they think it makes better television.  The people who like that kind of
program are watching Fear Factor, not PTV.  In my opinion.

Denise in Iowa


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> Our biggest complaint with the shows is
> how NO ONE stayed in period dress.  If they were uncomfortable, they just
> took it off.  How many of our pioneer grandmas really did that?

You may be surprised. After all in the 16thC there is mention of "German"
women going about just in their shifts* and wearing their aprons over their
heads (not sure about that second one, I may have misread/misheard that.)

I do recall mention in one of my costume books about an interview with a
woman who hated her stays as a girl in the very late 19thC taking them off
and being reprimanded. ANother woman mentioned removing her stockings
because they were annoying in some way or another.

It would be interesting to find further accounts like these actually. They
do suggest that one was not naturally predisposed to a fashion one gre up
into;)

*I don't have the book this appears in so maybe someone else here has the
full details?

michaela
http://glittersweet.com



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KATHLEEN AT <rmitchell@washjeff.edu> wrote:
Julian, in one of my Book catalogues just yesterday I saw this item <"Courtesans: Money, Sex, and Fame in the Nineteenth Century" by Katie Hickman; - Pub2003, paperback 2004, 363 pages at $14.95 - offered byBas Bleu bookseller >

Might the link you found be based on this volume?
SNIP

No, you misunderstood my perhaps-poorly-worded Posting - I didn't FIND a link - I was hoping that someone more knowledgable either would *know of an existing such link* - or someone enthusiastic about this particular thread would *volunteer to construct one* - as a companion piece to the "19th Century Queens of Society" webpages.
 
TYVM for the Book title, BTW: it is not one that I knew already - and I shall now see if our small Central Libary has a copy - [they don't "do" ILL's, for some reason; - Jersey always being stubbornly-independent in this as in so many other things]
Regards,
Julian,
in "olde" Jersey




Yours in service, 
Julian Wilson,
[aka. Messire Matthew Baker/Matthieu Besquer, Governor & Castellan of Jersey, 1486-1497: - "Si vis pacem, para bellum"]
late-medieval Re-enactor; & Historian and Master Artisan to  
"The Companie of the Duke's Leopards",
[the only medieval living-history Group
in "olde" Jersey]
		
---------------------------------
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Date: Sun, 15 May 2005 09:06:56 -0500 (CDT)
From: Ron Carnegie <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Colonial House / Frontier House
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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    The Canadian ones are different.  These are the quest series and the ones I have seen a far superior to the American ones, at least in the way of participant attitude, as presented by the producers.  I know people who were involved in both Frontier House and Colonial House.  Some of the comments on this list are spot on.  Susan Cain, who was the domestic advisor for frontier house mentioned this on antother list I am on.  We were complaining about tthe whiny kids in frontier house and she said actually theu were some of the best behaved kids she had ever met.  They were out there for several months, which was distilled down to three television epsiodes!   What we saw was more a representation of what the makers of the show thought we would be interested in, then a true depiction of what happened.  This was strengthened in my mind when I watched the wrap up episode, where the interviewed participants about their experience.  Suddenly there was a boy talking about how much!
  he enjoyed it and missed it.  He was rarely shown during the run of the shows!  nOT ENOUGH TENSION i GUESS.

     I like the Canadian ones better, at least the two I have seen, because this is less an element in them.  In the first one I saw their pioneer quest or something like that, the material culture was weak, but the attitude of the participants was great.  The second one was Quest for the Bay.  Unlike the American's versions, some of these people most certainly had a background.  They had a boat builder, they had reenactors and historical interpreters.  There's still tension, but it's tension regarding the subject at hand.  Will the boat survive, will we get there when we need too, etc.  Not weither or not they should get divorced or come out of the closet.

       I do think the House Series his missing their mark.  If I had the money I would put my theory to the test.  I think they are trying to capture the reality show audience, but I don't think they do.  The real reality shows do that better.  Therefore, people like us should be their audience, but by trying to make it like a typical reality show they just alienate us.  I really do believe they would be more successful if they tried more to show the tension of the period then modern soap opera.  Besides I really want to do one of these.  

    I have been a reenactor, and I am a profesional Interpreter.  Like modern farmers, we aren't wanted for these shows.  (Though often used as advisors).  However, most of us do not get the opportunity to live the lives we interpret.  Not really.  Typically we work 9-5 or a reenactor gets typically a weekend.  Longest I have lived iin a hiostoric period full time was a week, and THAT was an unusual situation!  I would love the oppurtunity to live in a recreated past for a six months!  

Ron Carnegie

From: Laura Waack <pottratzwaack@hotmail.com>
>Date: Sun May 15 07:22:11 CDT 2005
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: [h-cost] Colonial House / Frontier House

>My husband & 4 children & I have watched most of these shows, but gave up 
>because of the bickering the participants did.  We used to play a game at 
>the supper table where we put our family in the mix and talked about how we 
>would do.  I mentioned that there never seems to be any Midwestern farm 
>families (like us) on the shows, and my husband said 'of course, because we 
>would probably do OK, the kids are used to farm chores and animals, and 
>there wouldn't be as much drama.'  Our biggest complaint with the shows is 
>how NO ONE stayed in period dress.  If they were uncomfortable, they just 
>took it off.  How many of our pioneer grandmas really did that?
>
>But just trying it and finding out stuff would be SO INTERESTING.
>
>Did anyone see the one set in Canada, with only two families?  I thought 
>that was the best one, especially as they stayed through the winter.
>
>Berenice
>
>
>  I agree, but the guess the idea is to take people most rooted in modern
>life, throw them into a recreated past and film what happens. Then edit
>it down into an entertainment show for the masses. Even for PBS, you
>gotta have buzz and ratings of some sort.
>
>What I would like to see is some sort of mix between reenactors who
>would insist on doing everything correctly, interested amateurs, like
>myself and probably a good portion of the list membership who would want
>to experience actually living and surviving in a past time as close as
>we could come sans time machine, and the willing but clueless who of
>course, represent the mass audience, who complain and rebel.
>
>Talk about ratings! Talk about sparks flying!
>
>Cindy Abel
>
> > As with all these series, I object to the director-editors who spend
> > time seeking out misfits in a cast or conflicts between individuals
> > that have no meaning or bearing on the period being scrutinized and
> > play these up to the omission of pertinent material.
>
>
>This is exactly right, and I think the program officials are wrong. I
>know many, many people who like to watch these shows and every one has
>mentioned disliking all the bickering and modern concepts that are
>introduced.  It's pretty obvious that the producers are picking groups
>and families that would be at odds with each other in any circumstances,
>not just the stress of living in a time of unaccustomed hardship.
>
>I don't understand why people who would never dream of getting dirty or
>"doing without" would even apply for spot on these shows.  My family
>applied to be a part of the one shot in Maine. We farm, we keep bees,
>sugar the maples, know how to sew and milk cows/goats, garden, make do
>and do without.
>We didn't even get a second contact.  They *want* people to fail because
>they think it makes better television.  The people who like that kind of
>program are watching Fear Factor, not PTV.  In my opinion.
>
>Denise in Iowa
>
>
>_______________________________________________
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From: Ron Carnegie <r.carnegie@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] Colonial House / Frontier House
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Hello,

    There are a number of similiar comments from visitors to the southern back country of America in the late 18th early 19th centuries.  These people are often described as being scantily dressed, dirty, and shoeless.  Of course many of these references come from outsiders denigrating the society so there maybe exageration represented here.


Ron Carnegie

>You may be surprised. After all in the 16thC there is mention of "German"
>women going about just in their shifts* and wearing their aprons over their
>heads (not sure about that second one, I may have misread/misheard that.)
>
>I do recall mention in one of my costume books about an interview with a
>woman who hated her stays as a girl in the very late 19thC taking them off
>and being reprimanded. ANother woman mentioned removing her stockings
>because they were annoying in some way or another.
>
>It would be interesting to find further accounts like these actually. They
>do suggest that one was not naturally predisposed to a fashion one gre up
>into;)
>
>*I don't have the book this appears in so maybe someone else here has the
>full details?
>
>michaela
>http://glittersweet.com
>
>
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:"Queens of Society" pictures
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Hi Julian,
 
I'm in Warren Co. NJ and our main library does 'em all the time.  If you're not to far away, perhaps we can get the book (if they don't already have it) and you can come up and make a copy?
 
Chris G.

julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
SNIP

No, you misunderstood my perhaps-poorly-worded Posting - I didn't FIND a link - I was hoping that someone more knowledgable either would *know of an existing such link* - or someone enthusiastic about this particular thread would *volunteer to construct one* - as a companion piece to the "19th Century Queens of Society" webpages.

TYVM for the Book title, BTW: it is not one that I knew already - and I shall now see if our small Central Libary has a copy - [they don't "do" ILL's, for some reason; - Jersey always being stubbornly-independent in this as in so many other things]
Regards,
Julian,
in "olde" Jersey




Yours in service, 
Julian Wilson,
[aka. Messire Matthew Baker/Matthieu Besquer, Governor & Castellan of Jersey, 1486-1497: - "Si vis pacem, para bellum"]
late-medieval Re-enactor; & Historian and Master Artisan to 
"The Companie of the Duke's Leopards",
[the only medieval living-history Group
in "olde" Jersey]

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Status: RO

In the "Little House" books, Laura comments that she has to take her stays off at night to sleep, although her mother and older sister don't.  She also wants to help Pa in the fields, hoping to leave off her stays.  The time period is late 1800s/early 1900s.
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: michaela<mailto:thebruce@ihug.co.nz> 
  To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com> 
  Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2005 8:38 AM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Colonial House / Frontier House


  > Our biggest complaint with the shows is
  > how NO ONE stayed in period dress.  If they were uncomfortable, they just
  > took it off.  How many of our pioneer grandmas really did that?

  You may be surprised. After all in the 16thC there is mention of "German"
  women going about just in their shifts* and wearing their aprons over their
  heads (not sure about that second one, I may have misread/misheard that.)

  I do recall mention in one of my costume books about an interview with a
  woman who hated her stays as a girl in the very late 19thC taking them off
  and being reprimanded. ANother woman mentioned removing her stockings
  because they were annoying in some way or another.

  It would be interesting to find further accounts like these actually. They
  do suggest that one was not naturally predisposed to a fashion one gre up
  into;)

  *I don't have the book this appears in so maybe someone else here has the
  full details?

  michaela
  http://glittersweet.com<http://glittersweet.com/>



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Subject: [h-cost] Colonial/Pioneer House - Why Bother?
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Okay, I'm going to agree with everything said so far.
It's day 2 - why are the women shown wearing their
shifts and corsets in public? Why are they shocked at
the reality of goat poo and sour milk? Why are they
freaking out already when they had so much training
(according to the website)?  Some of the documentary
stuff and excerpts from original pioneers diaries is
interesting but I'd rather watch a serious documentary
on the subject.

I won't bother with it next week - back to watching
Indiana Jones: escapism pure and simple with no
whining civilians to get in the way :-)

Susan S.

p.s. it is my long term ambition to live, during the
day at least, in the Frilandsmuseet - the world's most
beautiful collection of houses - in Copenhagen... I
just want to take antibiotics and clean water with me!


		
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I really enjoyed the Frontier House series, myself. I would have preferred
more about how they lived and less about their bickering, and certainly less
about the sad breakup of the one couple's marriage, but I do think the show
succeeded in showing how much work it took to live back then. I was
particularly impressed at the last episode, which showed the people back at
their regular lives. The men had all gotten so much fatter, and the kids
were so bored . . . as a parent, that part really stuck out for me. On the
"frontier," the children had all done very hard and very necessary work.
Their families depended on what they did. Back home they didn't have
anything to do and they were bored out of their minds.

It seems to me that each one of these "house" series has gotten worse and
worse. The "Regency House Party" was so awful -- the people were so apalling
-- that I could hardly bear any of it. I kept tuning in, thinking it
couldn't get worse, but it did... I think Ron is right, they are missing the
mark. The real fans of these shows want to see people actually TRYING to
live like people in the past, not protesting about what a pain it is!

Gail Finke

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Subject: [h-cost] iron age shoe
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see:
http://www.guardian.co.uk/uk_news/story/0,3604,1481011,00.html

Laura Dickerson


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Good irons?
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On 5/10/05, lauren.walker@comcast.net <lauren.walker@comcast.net> wrote:
> Hi,
> I'm in the market for a new electric steam iron. My old one is a lovely shade of "Harvest Gold", which tells you how old it is, plus, about 10 years ago I melted the lid of a yogurt container on the base plate. Anyway I have been squinting at the Consumer Reports listings, but I get the feeling CR's testers don't actually iron that much, as their criteria are kind of weird. So their first choice is a Black and Decker model that the user reviews on Amazon.com found unreliable and problematic. Thus, I turn to you: has anybody got an iron to recommend? I use mine for three things: to iron existing clothes; to press seams, edges, and other tricky parts when constructing garments, and sometimes to put a little gentle fulling onto handwoven wools. How these purposes align with CR's "Ironing" "Steaming" and "Glide" is a little unclear. Also everybody seems to hate an iron that drips water on clothes at lower temperatures, but given the nature of steam and condensation I'm not sur!
 e !
> there's a whole lot a manufacturer can do to prevent it. Anyway, your advice gratefully entertained.
> Best,
> Lauren Walker

I use one of the cheap $10 ones from Target, because it is light and
my wrists don't complain so much. But then I don't use the steam
(actually, I'm not sure if this one even has a steam function),
rather, I use spray bottles of water or vinegar (labelled, of course)
depending on what I am working with. That way, no accidental burns,
drips, etc. A good spray bottle that can lay a nice even mist is a
wonderful thing.

Margaret/Pixel

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Good irons?
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Got to add my comments here.  I grew up in the days before polyester and had to iron almost everything I wore.  I HATE ironing and have my iron mostly for sewing.  With arthritis I don't care for the heavy irons.  I tried Black and Decker, but think they should have just stayed with power tools.  They have spread themselves so thin that none of their stuff is much good any more.  I have had the best luck with my cheap Proctor/Silex.  It has steam, burst of steam, spray and a teflon plate that is easy to clean (just run it over a couple of sheets of wax paper now and then).  I know that just adds to the confusion.  Sorry, that is the best I can offer.
Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- lauren.walker@comcast.net wrote:

From: lauren.walker@comcast.net
Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 21:24:24 +0000
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Good irons?

Hi,
I'm in the market for a new electric steam iron. My old one is a lovely shade of "Harvest Gold", which tells you how old it is, plus, about 10 years ago I melted the lid of a yogurt container on the base plate. Anyway I have been squinting at the Consumer Reports listings, but I get the feeling CR's testers don't actually iron that much, as their criteria are kind of weird. So their first choice is a Black and Decker model that the user reviews on Amazon.com found unreliable and problematic. Thus, I turn to you: has anybody got an iron to recommend? I use mine for three things: to iron existing clothes; to press seams, edges, and other tricky parts when constructing garments, and sometimes to put a little gentle fulling onto handwoven wools. How these purposes align with CR's "Ironing" "Steaming" and "Glide" is a little unclear. Also everybody seems to hate an iron that drips water on clothes at lower temperatures, but given the nature of steam and condensation I'm not sure !
 there's a whole lot a manufacturer can do to prevent it. Anyway, your advice gratefully entertained. 
Best,
Lauren Walker
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] polymer clay powder question
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Gold mica powder looks better than spray paint, but for this purpose
I would suggest "gold" leaf. You just brush the buttons with a liquid
adhesive, let it set up a bit and then apply the sheet of gold leaf using
a soft brush to push it in the corners and crevices. You can find the
supplies at any Michaels or Hobby Lobby.

Sheryl N-D

At 11:14 AM 5/11/05 -0700, you wrote:
>This got me thinking as well.  I found some old giant buttons that look 
>like rope work.  Gilded in some way they would make great 
>ornaments.  Spray paint...looks like spray paint.  Is anyone familiar with 
>these metallic powders?
>Julie
>
> > >The gold powder suggestions really give me ideas. I think I can find gold
> > >leaf easier than I can find gold lipstick.
> >



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Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:
> My guess? He's pulling your leg. Probably trying to test how much he can 
> push before you get mad at him. Probably not part of the SCA, but met 
> them and thinks they're ridiculous and stupid.
> 
> My advice? Just drop it.

Yep, that's what I did.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

The SCA is very tolerant of all types, including the ones that refuse to 
take their meds.  -- Anton of Winteroak
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] SCA v Renfaire   ......Swat that fairy, make 'em scream!
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 14:56:44 -0400
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> Then "$buck$ "fever hit them. the $Buck$ became more
> important to them then apperance,theme,or realism.
> Enter Conan, Vulcans, klingons, demons,vampires,goths,
> Zebra people,hobbits elves fairies....even Jack from
> Jack in the Box fast foods,in doublet & slops.

That's not a Renaissance Faire. That's an outdoors Sci-Fi convention.
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From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE:Dollfies
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"Dollfies" is a registered trademark of the Volks
company in Japan.  They made up the word by combining
Doll and Figure.
A more general term is asian resin ball-jointed dolls,
for the bigger resin dolls.

Dollfie by itself refers to Volks's line of vinyl 1/6
scale dolls (aka, 12", 30 cm, Barbie-sized).  
No too expensive, but better when bought in a group
order; shipping from Japan can get expensive.  US
source:  Doll & Hobby in Florida.
Lots of interesting posability.

Dollfie Dreams is a 60 cm vinyl doll with some
posability, but less than many of the 30 cm dolls. 
Tends to have a very exagerated anime facial styling. 
Curves to make Barbie jealous.


Their bigger dolls are mostly made of resin.

Super Dollfie (SD) & Super Dollfie 13 (SD-13) are
around 60 cm (+/-) and run starting around US$550
(estimate only) and go up, especially when the face is
painted by a well-respected customizer, clothing &
shoes of high quality and limited numbers.  

Mini Super Dollfie (MSD) and Super Dollfie Cute (SDC)
are around 43 cm tall.  They start arond US$300 for an
MSD kit that you must string, and go up.  
The SDC line only has limited editions so far & go for
very painful amounts of money, possibly starting as
low as US$500.

Many other companies make polyurethane resin
ball-jointed dolls.  The SD FAQ at
http://www.denofangels.com/ (click on FAQ) has lots of
information.

I've costumed a Dream of Doll Bee-A (43cm) as a 15th
century bourgeois, and she has a great face sculpt for
turn of the fifteenth century.  :)


Ann in CT

--- "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu> wrote:
> I've heard of the Dollfies. The magazines Haute Doll

> and FDQ:Fashion Doll Quarterly have run several 
> articles on them.  But even
> the littlest are super-expensive for me.
> 
> Cindy
> 
> Speaking of pale skinned dolls.  I just discovered
> the "new" (to me)
> resin ball jointed dolls like Volk's Dollfie.  I was
> playing around with
> one yesterday to make a pattern.  The dolls are
> super articulated and
> wow can you position them!  
sorry, lost the attribution to the above quote.  ac


		
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Subject: [h-cost] A good question
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I am work on reproducing a biography about Sarah Jennings aka Duchess of Marlborough from 1660-1700s.  The book keeps referring to the people of the court going to the cockpit in London.  What is a cockpit?

<<<no wise-guy answers please.>>>

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com 
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com 
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
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Those aired here last year in Canda as well as one called Either Iron age or Bronze age from England.(unsure of title) . they are rally neat to see how comfortable people really are in "modern" times...throw them back a couple hundred years or so and see what happens.... People really do take way too much for granted!  

 

Just my opinion... I think they are really cool! 

 

Satine


		
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Thank you to those with the answers about, "What is a cock-pit?" When I get 
to formatting the webpages for Sarah's bio, I will find the pages discussing 
the cockpits. Then, I send some quotes to you all about the cockpits.  For 
some reason, I recall the ladies going to this place.  The book gave me the 
impression that the cock-pit was a social gathering place.  I just can't 
imagine English ladies of society going to chicken fights.  BTW, chicken 
fights are outlawed in several states of the U.S.

It probably won't be until Tuesday when I get to formatting.  I still have 
four more pages of tiny printed pages to type to finish Sarah's bio.  I have 
been forever typing this section.  I thought maybe I was typing slow. I gave 
another bio from this book to one of my interns, who types 100 wpm.  Usually 
she can type an entire book in one week.  Well, it has been a week and she 
is only half way through the bio.

Back to indexing the fashion color database...

Penny Ladnier, owner (who didn't take world history in school and learning 
it the hard way)
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com 


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AND
Everyone Honeymoons at Niagara Falls. Their hotel has a 'great view of the Falls', and there are no crowds at all at any of the Tourist Traps.

Katheryne
loving this Hollywood view of the USA

----- Original Message -----
From: Karen R Bergquist <penhalion@juno.com>
> You forgot to mention the fact that Chicago is full of gangsters 
> who kill
> each other in the street on a regular basis.....and we all carry
> Tommy-guns.
>  
> "Elizabeth Walpole"
 > Are you telling me Hollywood has been lying to me all these years 
> > ;-) I mean the USA consists of New York, Washington (and there's nobody but politicians there) and LA plus a few quaint little towns where everybody 
> knows  everyone else and they don't like strangers, the rest is ranches, Right? 
> > Surely
> > Hollywood couldn't be wrong? could it? ;-D
> > Elizabeth

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The Cockpit was the London residence of Princess Anne (to whom Sarah 
Jennings was lady-in-waiting) and Prince George. It was on the site of 
what is now Downing Street 
</main/ntquery;jsessionid=5hesrqvu4uo18?method=4&dsid=2222&dekey=Downing+Street&gwp=8&curtab=2222_1&sbid=lc04a> 
in Westminster 
</main/ntquery;jsessionid=5hesrqvu4uo18?method=4&dsid=2222&dekey=Westminster&gwp=8&curtab=2222_1&sbid=lc04a>. 
Their social and political circle was known as the "Cockpit Circle."

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Cin wrote:

>I am work on reproducing a biography about Sarah Jennings aka Duchess
>of Marlborough from 1660-1700s.  The book keeps referring to the
>people of the court going to the cockpit in London.  What is a
>cockpit?
>
>
>  
>
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Here are a couple of quotes from the OED. Just as some alternatives to 
the general
notion of a pit, for cock fighting, which is 'right on.'

{dag}b. Applied to a theatre; and to the PIT of a theatre. Obs.

1599 SHAKES. Hen. V, I. Prol. 11 Can this Cock-Pit hold The vastie 
fields of France? Or may we cramme Within this Woodden O, the very 
Caskes That did affright the Ayre at Agincourt? a1635 L. DIGGES in 
Shaks. Suppl. I. 71 (N.) Let but Beatrice And Benedict be seen; lo! in a 
trice, The cockpit, galleries, boxes, all are full.


{dag}c. spec. the Cockpit: (a) name of a theatre in London, in 17th c., 
on the site of a cock-pit. Obs.
a1635 L. DIGGES in Shaks. Suppl. I. 71 (N.) On Gods name, may the Bull, 
or Cockpit have Your lame blank verse to keep you from the grave. 1660 
PEPYS Diary 11 Oct., Mr. Salisbury..took Mr. Creed and me to the 
Cockpitt to see The Moore of Venice, which was well done. 1662-3 Ibid. 
5 Jan., To the Cockpitt, where we saw Claracilla, a poor play, done by 
the King's house.


{dag}(b) The name of the block of buildings on or near the site of the 
Cockpit erected by Henry VIII opposite Whitehall, London, used from the 
seventeenth century as government offices; hence put familiarly for the 
Treasury, and the Privy Council chambers. Obs.

[1598 STOW Surv. Lond. 374 (in J. Marshall Ann. Tennis 65) The saide 
White hall. On the right hand bee diuers fayre Tennis courtes, bowling 
Allies, and a Cockepit, all built by King Henry the eight.] 1649-50 
Commons' Jrnl. 25 Feb. in Carlyle Cromwell II. 124 Resolved that the 
Lord Lieutenant of Ireland have the use of the Lodgings called the 
Cockpit. 1659-60 PEPYS Diary 20 Feb., My Lord of Dorset and another 
Lord, talking of getting another place at the Cockpit. 1698 LUTTRELL 
Brief Rel. IV. 329 The council chamber, treasury, and duke Shrewsbury's 
offices, are to be at the Cockpitt, till Whitehal be rebuilt. 1711 R. 
ORLEBAR Let. in 3rd Rep. Hist. MSS. Comm. App. 276a, Mar. 8..Just now I 
am told of an odd passage happened in Councill at the cockpitt to-night. 
1773 BURKE Let. Sir C. Bingham Wks. IX. 140 For the sake of gratifying 
the schemes of a transitory Administration of the Cock~pit or the 
Castle. 1830 GREVILLE Mem. 22 Nov. (1874) II. xii. 70 He [Brougham] 
threatened to sit often at the Cockpit, in order to check Leach, who, 
though a good judge in his own Court, was good for nothing in a Court of 
Appeal. 1843 KNIGHT London V. 291 But to return to the Cock-pit..This is 
the part of the Treasury buildings which fronts Whitehall.

Suzi Clarke wrote:

> At 10:16 13/05/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>
>> I am work on reproducing a biography about Sarah Jennings aka Duchess
>> of Marlborough from 1660-1700s. The book keeps referring to the
>> people of the court going to the cockpit in London. What is a
>> cockpit?
>>
>> <<<no wise-guy answers please.>>>
>>
>> Cockfight occurs in a pit. It's an extremely lowbrow gambling
>> opportunity. It would be interesting to hear/read what the Duchess
>> had to say about her peers & cockfighting,
>
>
>
> I would query that it is entirely low brow. Certainly later in the 
> 18th and early 19th century, all forms of fighting contests were a 
> draw for the "toffs". Cock fighting and bare knuckle fighting come 
> under that banner. If the people of the court were going, surely that 
> means that it might have been considered low brow but the courtiers 
> went slumming all the same? (You still find dogs fights - highly 
> illegal - in South London where I live.)
>
> Suzi
>
>
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Subject: [h-cost] Viking Music?
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OK.  I admit that I'm not up on Viking culture, but didn't Vikings have music?  Didn't they dance?  I can't imagine a group noted for alcohol consumption that didn't have some form of dancing at their gatherings.
Julie
----  <h-costume@indra.com> wrote:
> I once saw a group of party girls at a Viking re-creation feast asking when the dance music came on,

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Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 15:24:34 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kilts and Saris
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For kilts, I would suggest:
         Dunbar, John Telfer: The Costume of Scotland. London: Batsford, 1981.
or
         Dunbar John Telfer: History of Highland Dress. Edinburgh and 
London: Oliver and Boyd, 1962

I don't know if
         Tarrant, Naomi. The Development of Costume. National Galleries of 
Scotland (January, 1994) Routledge Press. ISBN: 0415080185

would have anything specifically on kilts or not. My copy hasn't come in 
yet. There really aren't many good books on the subject out there. Try 
interlibrary loan for them.

Beth Matney

At 01:02 PM 5/13/2005, you wrote:
>Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 12:49:53 -0400
>From: tearoses@aol.com
>Subject: [h-cost] Kilts and Saris
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Can someone point me at some books with accurate information as to the 
>origins of the Scottish kilt and the Indian sari? I'm interested in 
>whether there are any similarities in how these garments developed.
>
>Extra credit if you suggest a book I can find at the library. :)
>
>Thanks,
>Tea Rose

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kilts and Saris
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>Can someone point me at some books with accurate information as to the 
>origins of the Scottish kilt and the Indian sari? I'm interested in 
>whether there are any similarities in how these garments developed.

My uneducated guess is that this is another example of parallel 
evolution.  The garments may turn out to only be related to fact that the 
fabric is woven but not cut.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Kilts and Saris
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Hello,

One thing to remember is the form is not the most important thing about 
both of these garments.  Both are rich in symbolism.  The kilt, as we 
know it, was a fabrication of the nineteenth century and the romantic 
notions of ancient Scotland and the glorious but tragic history of the 
HIghlands.

The sari is influenced greatly by the notions of purity, an ancient 
Vedic (?) Hindu (?) principle.  The most pure sari (if I am remembering 
correctly) is plain white cotton with no seams.  Saris indicate caste 
and regional variations.

Good luck!
Althea


On Friday, May 13, 2005, at 03:06 PM, Katie Lewis wrote:

> Tea Rose:
>
>>
>> Can someone point me at some books with accurate information as to
>> the origins of the Scottish kilt and the Indian sari? I'm
>> interested in whether there are any similarities in how these
>> garments developed.
>
> _The Sari_ has some good information about the recent development of 
> the sari.  You might also check out the archives of the SCA_India 
> yahoogroup for bibliographical information.  There are also some good 
> websites on the topic, although the ones that deal with pre-19th 
> century dress tend to foucus on one time/place rather than giving a 
> survey.
>
> Based on what I've read, I don't think that there are a lot of 
> similarities in terms of the development of the actual garment.
> As I understand it, the kilt sarted out as a large mantle/blanket 
> thing that eventually starts being pleated into a skirt-like garment, 
> and then the sewn little kilt happens.
> The sari, as far as can be told, starts out as something that is 
> always worn draped and pleated into various configurations, including 
> some drapes that are more pants-like.
>
> However, there are some similarities.  Both have become the symbolicly 
> important "national dress" of their country, and in both cases the 
> current "correct" manner of wearing the garment is a 19th century 
> development.
>
> -Katie
>
>
> -- 
> _______________________________________________
> NEW! Lycos Dating Search. The only place to search multiple dating 
> sites at once.
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>
Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com
*** http://www.alfalfapress.com

Reunite Pangaea!

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masses or majority, merely because the majority is the majority. Truth 
does not change because it is, or is not, believed by a majority of the 
people.
- Giordano Bruno

Oh, good. Symbols on the floor. That always goes well.
- Gunn

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: cockpit
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It sounds like Fran gave the right answer (gold star time!). My guess was
going to be some fashionable place CALLED the "cockpit" to be daring and
possibly racy. Sounds like Princess Anne and Prince George had the same
idea!

Gail Finke

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Subject: [h-cost] Sears Catalog
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If anyone has a reproduction of the 1920s complete Sears catalog please contact me off-list.  I am looking for something specific in it.  The issue I saw had the ordering information in the center of the catalog.
  
Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com 
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Subject: Re: Subject: [h-cost] A good question
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Cock fighting was just one alternative to bull baiting and bear baiting, another of the hideous blood sports adored by our forebears.  In bull and bear baiting, a bull or bear would be tied to a stake and set upon by dogs (usually mastiffs or something of that ilk -- the English Bulldog was originally bred for this, and was much taller then), although not always until the bull or bear was killed, because bears and bulls were expensive.  They could be killed, of course, but those who lived to fight many fights gained some reknown in their own right, like Sackerson the bear (mentioned in at least one Shakespeare play), and of course the dogs were often killed.  An occasional variant was to tie a monkey to the back of a pony or donkey and set dogs after the terrified twosome -- I'm sure the pony would be killed, and probably the monkey as well, as they weren't as costly to replace.  There was a huge pit for these kinds of contests outside the Globe Theater (or at least near it)!
 , and of
 course there were many others.  The practice continued for some time, and yes, like cock fighting, the nobles loved it -- Elizabeth I was very fond of the "sport."
 
Ick --
KP


Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:
At 10:16 13/05/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>I am work on reproducing a biography about Sarah Jennings aka Duchess
>of Marlborough from 1660-1700s. The book keeps referring to the
>people of the court going to the cockpit in London. What is a
>cockpit?
>
><<>>
>
>Cockfight occurs in a pit. It's an extremely lowbrow gambling
>opportunity. It would be interesting to hear/read what the Duchess
>had to say about her peers & cockfighting,


I would query that it is entirely low brow. Certainly later in the 18th 
and early 19th century, all forms of fighting contests were a draw for the 
"toffs". Cock fighting and bare knuckle fighting come under that banner. If 
the people of the court were going, surely that means that it might have 
been considered low brow but the courtiers went slumming all the same? (You 
still find dogs fights - highly illegal - in South London where I live.)

Suzi


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Subject: [h-cost] King Tut
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I found this article today online about a team of scientists who construct a model of what King Tut looked like:
http://www.wtvr.com/Global/story.asp?S=3335490&nav=KACdZmE5  At the end of the article it tells about a new world exhibit tour of King Tut's tomb.

Penny Ladnier, owner
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Subject: [h-cost] SCORE!
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Sorry to those who get this twice.  I had to share with people who will
understand why I'm thrilled.

I stopped at my local Good Will Store on a whim tonight and found a Singer
Touch and Sew, 1964 (all metal gears - made in the USA) in perfect condition
with the original instruction book and a book on chain stitching. Both books
are annotated and have samples of each stitch and examples of the binding
foot inserted by the lovely lady named Jane (some labels in the bag o stuff)
who must have worked to learn how to use her spiffy machine!

Also, all 17 cams in the original boxes; 3 Throat plates, 7 weird bobbins, 3
slant needle feet (Straight, zipper and hemmer) (good thing since all my
other machines use straight feet).  3 Straight feet that also fit (Binder
foot, Button foot, and a "Special Purpose Foot" for hairline finishing that
feeds a filler cord under the stitches or corded buttonholes) a seam guide,
a plastic invisible zipper foot.   Also a second spool holder for double
needle work, and the thread guide and bobbin case cover to do chain
stitching.  From a very old machine - two feet, a hemmer and zipper foot.

A bag with dozens of needles and pins, a blouse pattern (size 12, sigh!)
buttons and hooks and eyes of various sizes and colors, an envelope of pearl
headed corsage pins, electric scissors and lovely hand made brass pin -
perfect for Historical use.

It came in its original sewing table which is in perfect shape.

Price: $47.50 for everything!

Happy Dance!!!

Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey
Who now has one Old Pfaff, one new Pfaff (bah!), one Morse (boat anchor
heavy and tough as nails), one 1924 Singer, one working 1900 Kaiser treadle
with mother of pearl inlay and gold flowers, and now a Singer Touch and Sew
:-)

Whew!  I knew you'd understand!

Never attribute to malice what can as easily
be attributed to simple social ineptness

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Another Kingdom of Heaven question
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Darn! I thought they all looked and talked like Mick Dundee!

Carolann Schmitt
cschmitt@genteelarts.com
www.genteelarts.com
Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 2-5, 2006





-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Elizabeth Walpole
Sent: Saturday, May 14, 2005 6:08 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Another Kingdom of Heaven question

To add my local bit to this discussion, Australians all talk like Steve
Irwin (the crocodile Hunter) live in the outback (Australia of course has no
cities), ride around on their pet Kangaroos and look like they haven't
bathed for weeks.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]iimetro.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/





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>No I believe Chicago ceased to exist c. 1940 when other areas got more
interesting, ...  There are of course other cities that popped into existence
fully formed c. 1980 (I can't think of names but I'm sure people who watch
more films than I do can come up with something)

That would be Silicon Valley, where all nerds have bandaids on
glasses, dress like dorks, drive silver Hondo accords, act like
eunuchs and can hack into the FBI before the next commercial break.
There's a robot or AI in every lab developed because the nerd is
lonely. VR is accessible only to the the ur-nerd.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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Mike - you really made me laugh!  Especially as my knee-jerk reaction to 
Tinkerbell was to snarl at her "I'm not a fairy, I'm a ROMAN" (I was in full 
SCA garb).  She backed off fast, I was aghast at my bad manners, and my 
husband nearly had a coronary he was laughing so hard!!  (Of course, he was 
dressed to the hilt in his 7th-century Saxon clothing, so go figure...)  
Good thing I DIDN'T have a shotgun!

------------------------------

Message: 10

Oh, the things you see when you don't have your shotgun...  ;)   Mike T.

 > IMO, the main difference:  when I went to my first Ren Fair last year,
 > a girl flitted up to me - her skin was tinted green, she was wearing
 > some sort of gauzy "tinkerbell" costume complete with wings - and she
 > asked me if I would like to be sprinkled with fairy dust.
 >


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On Sat, 14 May 2005, Penny Ladnier wrote:

> 3. Lady Mary Wortley Montagu

Whoa. I don't know what time period this book covers, but the Mary Wortley
Montagu I know of is the person who introduced smallpox inoculation to
Europe in the early 1700s -- the precursor to vaccination, and the only
protection available against smallpox until Jenner invented his vaccine
around 1800 or so. She learned of inoculation while in Turkey, where her
husband was the British ambassador. She was known as a keen observer of
Turkish customs and a skillful writer. If she had anything to say about
costume, it would very likely be worth reading.

--Robin

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On Saturday 14 May 2005 12:17 pm, Serena Dyer wrote:
> I am planning to make up a pair of gentelman's breeches from the 1780
> section of 'The Evolution of Fashion: Pattern and Cut from 1066 to 1930' by
> Margot Hamilton and wondered if anyone could give me any advice about how
> to go about it.  I have made breeches before, but never from this pattern
> and I am a little dubious about them for unknown reasons!
>
> Any experience from any of the other patterns in the book would also be
> nice to hear about, as I am planning to use a few of the other patterns in
> the future.

I have no personal experience with the book, but there is an SCA Compleat 
Anachronist pamphlet that has an article critiquing the book, particularly 
with regard to the quality of the patterns.  It's Compleat Anachronist #38--
"Costume Studies III: Articles from 'Seams Like Old Times,'", and you can 
order it from http://www.sca.org (follow the links to "SCA Marketplace").


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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Wouldn't it be great to get PBS to re-do one of these shows with people who know a little more about the basics of living, and compare the ratings?  Should we start a letter-writing campaign?  "Re-enactor House..."  "People who aren't totally clueless and really want to try living in the past House..."
Or if they would even make available all the footage they shot, so we could hear from those who enjoyed the experience.
I thought it was really sad that on "Frontier House," the one family couldn't think of a better way of getting their cow milked than to send the girl whose clothes had all been washed.  They could have 1)sent someone else; 2)given her other people's clothes; 3)brought the cow to them, rather than going to the cow.
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Laura Waack<mailto:pottratzwaack@hotmail.com> 
  To: h-costume@indra.com<mailto:h-costume@indra.com> 
  Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2005 8:22 AM
  Subject: [h-cost] Colonial House / Frontier House


  My husband & 4 children & I have watched most of these shows, but gave up 
  because of the bickering the participants did.  We used to play a game at 
  the supper table where we put our family in the mix and talked about how we 
  would do.  I mentioned that there never seems to be any Midwestern farm 
  families (like us) on the shows, and my husband said 'of course, because we 
  would probably do OK, the kids are used to farm chores and animals, and 
  there wouldn't be as much drama.'  Our biggest complaint with the shows is 
  how NO ONE stayed in period dress.  If they were uncomfortable, they just 
  took it off.  How many of our pioneer grandmas really did that?

  But just trying it and finding out stuff would be SO INTERESTING.

  Did anyone see the one set in Canada, with only two families?  I thought 
  that was the best one, especially as they stayed through the winter.

  Berenice


    I agree, but the guess the idea is to take people most rooted in modern
  life, throw them into a recreated past and film what happens. Then edit
  it down into an entertainment show for the masses. Even for PBS, you
  gotta have buzz and ratings of some sort.

  What I would like to see is some sort of mix between reenactors who
  would insist on doing everything correctly, interested amateurs, like
  myself and probably a good portion of the list membership who would want
  to experience actually living and surviving in a past time as close as
  we could come sans time machine, and the willing but clueless who of
  course, represent the mass audience, who complain and rebel.

  Talk about ratings! Talk about sparks flying!

  Cindy Abel

   > As with all these series, I object to the director-editors who spend
   > time seeking out misfits in a cast or conflicts between individuals
   > that have no meaning or bearing on the period being scrutinized and
   > play these up to the omission of pertinent material.


  This is exactly right, and I think the program officials are wrong. I
  know many, many people who like to watch these shows and every one has
  mentioned disliking all the bickering and modern concepts that are
  introduced.  It's pretty obvious that the producers are picking groups
  and families that would be at odds with each other in any circumstances,
  not just the stress of living in a time of unaccustomed hardship.

  I don't understand why people who would never dream of getting dirty or
  "doing without" would even apply for spot on these shows.  My family
  applied to be a part of the one shot in Maine. We farm, we keep bees,
  sugar the maples, know how to sew and milk cows/goats, garden, make do
  and do without.
  We didn't even get a second contact.  They *want* people to fail because
  they think it makes better television.  The people who like that kind of
  program are watching Fear Factor, not PTV.  In my opinion.

  Denise in Iowa


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon May 16 07:45:58 2005
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Subject: [h-cost] mexican shirt pattern?
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Does anyone know if there's a commercial pattern anywhere for a men's 
mexican shirt?
Thanks, Aylwen

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] SCORE!
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In a message dated 5/16/2005 7:44:02 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
wandap@hevanet.com writes:

Who now  has one Old Pfaff, one new Pfaff (bah!), one Morse (boat anchor
heavy and  tough as nails), one 1924 Singer, one working 1900 Kaiser treadle
with  mother of pearl inlay and gold flowers, and now a Singer Touch and  Sew



That was indeed some score--congratulations!
 
And I thought my 5 machines was excessive:
My mom's White Rotary from the 1930s (needs a new cord, alas!)
Early 1970s Singer (came with my husband when we got married in 1979) that  I 
pretty much sewed to death, but haven't gotten rid of
The Kenmore I got for college graduation in 1973
My wonderful Bernina, bought in 2000
My Pfaff serger, Ph.D. graduation present in 1992 that, alas, I may need to  
consider replacing, although I'll try to have it serviced first--it still 
sews,  but VERY slowly, not at all like its zippy self--I believe this was, 
though,  made by the OLD Pfaff company before they got bought out, so there may be 
hope  for it
 
Ann Wass
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] SCORE!
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At 08:23 16/05/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>
>In a message dated 5/16/2005 7:44:02 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>wandap@hevanet.com writes:
>
>Who now  has one Old Pfaff, one new Pfaff (bah!), one Morse (boat anchor
>heavy and  tough as nails), one 1924 Singer, one working 1900 Kaiser treadle
>with  mother of pearl inlay and gold flowers, and now a Singer Touch and  Sew
>
>
>
>That was indeed some score--congratulations!
>
>And I thought my 5 machines was excessive:
>My mom's White Rotary from the 1930s (needs a new cord, alas!)
>Early 1970s Singer (came with my husband when we got married in 1979) that  I
>pretty much sewed to death, but haven't gotten rid of
>The Kenmore I got for college graduation in 1973
>My wonderful Bernina, bought in 2000
>My Pfaff serger, Ph.D. graduation present in 1992 that, alas, I may need to
>consider replacing, although I'll try to have it serviced first--it still
>sews,  but VERY slowly, not at all like its zippy self--I believe this was,
>though,  made by the OLD Pfaff company before they got bought out, so 
>there may be
>hope  for it


Erm - one Singer commercial serger, 50 plus years old.

One hand cranked Singer, unknown age

One Singer Starlet, (of a type that 97 out of 100 went back to the makers 
as bad machines - mine is wonderful)

One Singer about 10 years old - only goes wrong when I try to sew through 
corset steel

And my aunt's small portable Frister and Rossman, supposedly a "good" 
machine, can't stand up to my Singers.

Suzi


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Subject: Re: Subject: [h-cost] A good question
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I think that this is one of those times when we tend to see the past thru
Victorian glasses. Our ancestors in the 16th and 17th centuries tended to
be a bit less prudish and more.....um.....earthy than we usually think. I
know that in the Elizabethan era, women could go to various 'sporting'
events that later ages might have deemed inappropriate. Elizabethans
gambled like fiends and I'm sure that 'contests' like this would have
been prime opportunities for both sexes.



There's a pub near Blackfriars (the Tube station and the Shakespearian
theatre), right across the street from St. Andrew-by-Wardrobe (which
really is right by the site of the old Royal Wardrobe) called 'The
Cockpit' which started out life as (you guessed it) a cockpit. When the
sport was outlawed in the 19th century, the cockpit was built over but
not destoyed. In later years, the pit was uncovered and refurbished and
is now a working (but not fighting) part of the pub. Gotta go have a pint
there the next time I'm over!


>From All-In-London:
"A pub has stood on this site since the 16th century. The Cockpit takes
its name from the fact that it used to be a major venue for gambling
during cock fights. When cock fighting was outlawed in 1849, the pub's
name changed to the Three Castles but it has since been sympathetically
refurbished with the old name and the old gallery both fully reinstated.
The Cockpit also provides a range of entertainment including a big screen
TV showing major sporting events on Sky TV."



Karen
Seamstrix
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Subject: [h-cost] Sarah Jennings biography terms
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In a message dated 5/13/2005 1:21:20 AM Central Daylight Time, 
h-costume-request@indra.com writes:
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 20:45:45 -0400
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
Subject: [h-cost] A good question
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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I am work on reproducing a biography about Sarah Jennings aka Duchess of 
Marlborough from 1660-1700s.  The book keeps referring to the people of the court 
going to the cockpit in London.  What is a cockpit?

<<<no wise-guy answers please.>>>

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com 
I believe this refers to the place where cock fighting as an entertainment 
was held.  I know it had been a big attraction along with bear baiting since 
Shakespear's time.  Usually it was held outside in a special area (cockpit) in or 
near an inn or pub.  This is just off the top of my head at the moment.  If 
someone has documentation --please add to this.


Donna Scarfe (Mistress Felicity)
Fyne Hats By Felicity
Period Headgear for Past Ages
www.fynehatsbyfelicity.com
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From: "Anne Moeller" <ladyanne@quik.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] SCORE!
Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 10:17:10 -0400
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Okay!  I can play too--

One Singer Slanto-matic (mother's) form the 1960's
One Singer from 1968 (both have lots of cams, buttonholer & other
attachments) and METAL gears
One Singer Featherweight
One Singer treadle
One Singer handcrank 99K (I think)
One Singer 28K handcrank
One modern plain Singer that does have a freearm & stretch stitch

Hmmmm- I think I had better stop looking at old machines on e-bay. ;)

Anne

Oh yes- One Baby Lock serger (given to me- haven't tried using it yet)

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At 10:17 16/05/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>Okay!  I can play too--
>
>One Singer Slanto-matic (mother's) form the 1960's
>One Singer from 1968 (both have lots of cams, buttonholer & other
>attachments) and METAL gears
>One Singer Featherweight
>One Singer treadle
>One Singer handcrank 99K (I think)
>One Singer 28K handcrank
>One modern plain Singer that does have a freearm & stretch stitch
>
>Hmmmm- I think I had better stop looking at old machines on e-bay. ;)
>
>Anne
>
>Oh yes- One Baby Lock serger (given to me- haven't tried using it yet)


You win - unless anyone knows better................!

Suzi


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From: Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Viking Music?
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Julie wrote:

OK.  I admit that I'm not up on Viking culture, but didn't Vikings have music?  Didn't they dance?  I can't imagine a group noted for alcohol consumption that didn't have some form of dancing at their gatherings.
Julie
----  <h-costume@indra.com> wrote:
> I once saw a group of party girls at a Viking re-creation feast asking when the dance music came on,

Well, these guys seem to think the Vikings had music, at least :)

http://www.krauka.dk/

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0  Chris Laning
|  <claning@igc.org>
+  Davis, California
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT? Shirwana pattern?
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Does anyone know if there's a commercial pattern anywhere for a men's 
mexican shirt?
Thanks, Aylwen

_______________________________________________
I can't answer this, but I'm looking for a commercial pattern for a Shirwana jacket (men's, Indian) for a production of A Perfect Ganesh. I already have the Folkwear pattern for the kurta ("Jewels of India"). A web crawl yielded nothing, but I'm not the most resourceful crawler...
Thanks for any help--
Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
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Ohhhhhhhhhh GOOD FOR YOU!!!  I may have to start going again...
 
Chris G.

Wanda Pease <wandap@hevanet.com> wrote:
Sorry to those who get this twice. I had to share with people who will
understand why I'm thrilled.

I stopped at my local Good Will Store on a whim tonight and found a Singer
Touch and Sew, 1964 (all metal gears - made in the USA) in perfect condition
with the original instruction book and a book on chain stitching. Both books
are annotated and have samples of each stitch and examples of the binding
foot inserted by the lovely lady named Jane (some labels in the bag o stuff)
who must have worked to learn how to use her spiffy machine!

Also, all 17 cams in the original boxes; 3 Throat plates, 7 weird bobbins, 3
slant needle feet (Straight, zipper and hemmer) (good thing since all my
other machines use straight feet). 3 Straight feet that also fit (Binder
foot, Button foot, and a "Special Purpose Foot" for hairline finishing that
feeds a filler cord under the stitches or corded buttonholes) a seam guide,
a plastic invisible zipper foot. Also a second spool holder for double
needle work, and the thread guide and bobbin case cover to do chain
stitching. From a very old machine - two feet, a hemmer and zipper foot.

A bag with dozens of needles and pins, a blouse pattern (size 12, sigh!)
buttons and hooks and eyes of various sizes and colors, an envelope of pearl
headed corsage pins, electric scissors and lovely hand made brass pin -
perfect for Historical use.

It came in its original sewing table which is in perfect shape.

Price: $47.50 for everything!

Happy Dance!!!

Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey
Who now has one Old Pfaff, one new Pfaff (bah!), one Morse (boat anchor
heavy and tough as nails), one 1924 Singer, one working 1900 Kaiser treadle
with mother of pearl inlay and gold flowers, and now a Singer Touch and Sew
:-)

Whew! I knew you'd understand!

Never attribute to malice what can as easily
be attributed to simple social ineptness

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Viking Music?
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I'm sure the Vikings (and other people of the period) had lots of music, song, and dancing. The big problem is that we don't know any of it! They didn't write it down and with the passage of years, the change in instrumentation, and the evolution of musical styles, it's very difficult to guess what a Norse ballad sounded like when it was sung in a mead-hall. And as for what dances they did, we have even less of a clue. Although, a number of years ago I ran across a reference that indicated a Christian missionary to the Norse was appalled by the Norse men dancing 'hip swinging dances' to honor the god of fertility Frey. What exactly were 'hip swinging dances'? I have no idea, but the idea of big, burly Vikings doing belly-dance is just too hilarious to ignore. 


Karen
Seamstrix
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>Does anyone know if there's a commercial pattern anywhere for a men's
>mexican shirt?
>
>Thanks, Aylwen

What sort of Mexican man's shirt? It's a large and diverse country 
with multiple ethnic groups and sub-cultures...

Anahita
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> Should we start a letter-writing campaign?  "Re-enactor
> House..."  "People who aren't totally clueless and really want to try
> living in the past House..."

     Maybe we could do both - use reenactors, and then get the secret
footage of us arguing the finer points of authenticity, maybe have a
tent blow away in a wind storm...

     I can just see someone breaking into tears because she can't have the
modern convenience of her Janet Arnold books.

     I think we reenactors have our moments, too, and if a long-term
experience was distilled down into just the drama and conflicts,
there would still be plenty of footage for a few hours of a somewhat
similar show.  :-)

     -Carol
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Subject: [h-cost] Cool BBC costume and social history site
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Found this while browsing. The BBC has a huge section of links to 
historical trivia and games, this one takes you to the "Dress a Tudor or 
Victorian Person" page, but there are links left and right for related 
multimedia , history and articles. Back up to the Home page and there 
are links to all time periods.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/history/society_culture/society/launch_gms_costumes.shtml



Dawn


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Sarah Churchill's story was one of the first two Masterpiece Theatres
in the US, the BBC productions that arrived here in the late 1970s. I
was totally fascinated by the whole story line and found an interest
in a new historical period. Thanks to her, Masterpiece Theatre became
a habit in my family for years and years.

I would like to suggest that your next Queen of Society be Mary,
Countess of Pembroke. First, generally, because so many of the people
on this list are focused on the Renaissance, especially Tudor England.
Mary (Sidney the Younger) Herbert, Countess of Pembroke, was one of
the most educated, articulate and influential women in her generation.
Her family served the Tudor Kings, Henry VII through Elizabeth and
later. Her son is mentioned in connection to Shakespeare's successes
and his sonnets. Related by blood to both the Dudleys and Sussex, the
Sidney family was very well place. There were three generations of
brilliant women before James I decided that women should be silent
stupid. The two Mary Sidneys were at in top five of two of those
generations. Mary Pembroke wrote in four languages, helped her
brother, Philip Sidney, write his plays and poetry and helped publish
him posthumously. She was incredible.

Most selfishly, I'd like you to put her online next because she is a
character I played in the big Northern California Renaissance Faire
from 1980 until 1997-9?, whenever we left Novato and I quit doing that
faire. I still bring her out to the small renaissance fair in San Luis
Obispo in mid-July.

On 5/14/05, Penny Ladnier <penny@costumegallery.com> wrote:
> We are typing the entire book, Queens of Society.  After the 1860 and 1862
> publications, the book was divided up into two books and two other books
> were written for etiquette.  This made a set of 4 volumes published around
> 1900.  In my 1860 book, there are 17 Queens of Society.  As for Sarah's
> section, there was little mentioned of  the fashions.  One of my assts. is
> typing Madame Roland at the moment.  I am waiting to hear her response about
> it.  What she has said so far, it sounds like it is full of name-dropping
> like the Sarah's section.  I think we will type Madame Recamier next.  She
> was very influential in fashion.
> 
> If you all want, I have placed a table of contents below.  Let me know which
> of the other ladies that you would like to see there section typed after
> Recamier.  Whoever receives the most nominations/votes will be the fourth
> Lady of Society to be typed.  Please give a reason why... I have not
> researched the backgrounds but on the three ladies I mentioned.  As I said
> before I am very weak on my European history so any advice would be welcome.
> So your input is appreciated.
> 
> BTW, the later versions with the two volumes of Queens of Society is the
> same as my single book.  I guess they just enlarged the font size of the
> type (thank goodness).  I checked that out with some vintage book dealers
> who have copies of the later editions.  If you want to purchase this book,
> do a google search for Queens of Society by Grace and Philip Wharton.  If
> they claim the book is undated, it is from the four volume set from the
> early 1900.  I found the Queens sets around $30-50.  I plan down the road to
> purchase the two volumes about etiquette.
> 
> Here is a list of the Table of Contents for "Queens of Society:"
> 1. Sarah, Duchess of Marlborough
> 2. Madame Roland
> 3. Lady Mary Wortley Montagu
> 4. Letitia Elizabeth Landon, (L.E.L)
> 5. Madame de Sevigne
> 6. Sydney Lady Morgan
> 7. Jane, Duchess of Gordon
> 8. Madame Recamier
> 9. Lady Hervey
> 10. Madame de Stael
> 11. Mrs. Thrale-Piozzi
> 12. Lady Caroline Lamb
> 13. Anne Seymour Damer
> 14. La Marquise du Deffand
> 15. Mrs. Elizabeth Montagu
> 16. Mary, Countess of Pembroke
> 17. La Marquise de Maintenon
> 
> Penny Ladnier, owner
> The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
> Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
> Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Viking Music?
Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 14:08:51 -0400
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 Although, a number of years ago I ran across a reference that indicated a Christian missionary to the Norse was appalled by the Norse men dancing 'hip swinging dances' to honor the god of fertility Frey. What exactly were 'hip swinging dances'? I have no idea, but the idea of big, burly Vikings doing belly-dance is just too hilarious to ignore. 

Personally, it brings to mind the furor over "Elvis the Pelvis" and other sexy rock & roll dancers.  Not that I can picture Elvis as a Viking, but I can picture some Viking-types I know doing those moves.

Janet
 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Viking Music?
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I had a friend who used to insist "Vikings Don't Dance" - but I think 
that was more due to his total lack of co-ordination, and therefore the 
danger to bystanders when he did dance, than any historical proof!

Jean


Chris Laning <claning@igc.org> wrote
>Julie wrote:
>
>OK.  I admit that I'm not up on Viking culture, but didn't Vikings have 
>music?  Didn't they dance?  I can't imagine a group noted for alcohol 
>consumption that didn't have some form of dancing at their gatherings.
>Julie
>----  <h-costume@indra.com> wrote:
>> I once saw a group of party girls at a Viking re-creation feast 
>>asking when the dance music came on,
>
>Well, these guys seem to think the Vikings had music, at least :)
>
>http://www.krauka.dk/
>
>____________________________________________________________
>0  Chris Laning
>|  <claning@igc.org>
>+  Davis, California
>____________________________________________________________
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
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-- 
Jean Waddie
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It's just a step to right... :)

De

-----Original Message-----
 Although, a number of years ago I ran across a reference that indicated a
Christian missionary to the Norse was appalled by the Norse men dancing 'hip
swinging dances' to honor the god of fertility Frey. What exactly were 'hip
swinging dances'? I have no idea, but the idea of big, burly Vikings doing
belly-dance is just too hilarious to ignore.

Personally, it brings to mind the furor over "Elvis the Pelvis" and other
sexy rock & roll dancers.  Not that I can picture Elvis as a Viking, but I
can picture some Viking-types I know doing those moves.

Janet



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From: Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] SCORE!
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You did make a great score.  Congratulations.

I  thought  everyone  had  a  bunch  of  sewing machines laying
around.  Mine?

1955  Singer  301  slant  needle  with  zig zag and button hole
attachments (that is the best of the lot)

five  year  old  New  Home  (that  cost  a bundle and is pretty
finiky, but good when it wants to be)

twenty  five year old Kenmore in cabinet with more attachments,
cams, and stuff than I will ever use (belonged to my mother)

Singer 401 (given to me by a friend)

Pfaff - probably 50 years old (given to me by a friend)

New  Home  model  NLB,  in a cabinet, with instruction book and
lots  of  accessories  at  least 40 years old (given to me by a
friend)

Pfaff serger (fussy little monster, but beautiful stitching)

Brother serger (a back up for the fussy little Pfaff)

and  my  latest acquisition that I purchased at an auction last
month:

An  1889  Singer   tredle  machine  in cabinet with instruction
book, accessories and it works!

I  don't  count  the  really old electric Singer that I haven't
been able to get to work yet, but I only paid five bucks for it
at  a  flea  market  and I still have hopes when I have time to
fiddle with it.


Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender
--- "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com> wrote:
From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
Date: Sat, 14 May 2005 01:10:29 -0700
To: "SCA-GARB" <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>,
"H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] SCORE!
Sorry  to  those who get this twice. I had to share with people
who will
understand why I'm thrilled.
I  stopped  at  my  local Good Will Store on a whim tonight and
found a Singer
Touch  and  Sew,  1964  (all  metal gears - made in the USA) in
perfect condition
with  the  original  instruction  book  and  a  book  on  chain
stitching. Both books
are  annotated  and have samples of each stitch and examples of
the binding
foot inserted by the lovely lady named Jane (some labels in the
bag o stuff)
who must have worked to learn how to use her spiffy machine!
Also,  all  17  cams  in the original boxes; 3 Throat plates, 7
weird bobbins, 3
slant  needle  feet  (Straight,  zipper and hemmer) (good thing
since all my
other  machines  use  straight feet). 3 Straight feet that also
fit (Binder
foot,  Button  foot,  and a "Special Purpose Foot" for hairline
finishing that
feeds a filler cord under the stitches or corded buttonholes) a
seam guide,
a plastic invisible zipper foot. Also a second spool holder for
double
needle  work,  and the thread guide and bobbin case cover to do
chain
stitching.  From  a  very  old machine - two feet, a hemmer and
zipper foot.
A  bag  with dozens of needles and pins, a blouse pattern (size
12, sigh!)
buttons  and  hooks  and  eyes  of various sizes and colors, an
envelope of pearl
headed  corsage  pins,  electric  scissors and lovely hand made
brass pin -
perfect for Historical use.
It came in its original sewing table which is in perfect shape.
Price: $47.50 for everything!
Happy Dance!!!
Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey
Who  now  has  one  Old  Pfaff, one new Pfaff (bah!), one Morse
(boat anchor
heavy  and  tough  as nails), one 1924 Singer, one working 1900
Kaiser treadle
with  mother  of pearl inlay and gold flowers, and now a Singer
Touch and Sew
:-)
Whew! I knew you'd understand!
Never attribute to malice what can as easily
be attributed to simple social ineptness
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon May 16 16:13:25 2005
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Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 21:11:24 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: trousers
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C M <caithlinn@hotmail.com> wrote
>Hi,
>
>I made a pair of trousers following the remains detailed in the first 
>Haithabu publication on textiles (Textilfunde aus dem Hafen von 
>Haithabu, HĂ¤gg, 1984) and it was quite easy to see how closely they 
>follow the âoriginalâ pattern of the pants found in Thorsberg. 
>Apart from the fact that the remains of the trouser legs were probably 
>double layers (the fabric was *very* fine) and the orientation and 
>structure of the leg remains indicated that they were probably wide, 
>not narrow, there was virtually no difference. I should have phrased 
>the âexactly the sameâ differently, sorry, what I meant to say was 
>that the parts that define this particular cut (cause others are 
>different) are the same. The same dimensions, however, are not that 
>hard to come to terms with, when you assume a similar built of the 
>wearer, with the assumption that there might not have been as much 
>physical diversity then as there is nowadays (which is clearly an 
>assumption, no proof, but a feasible one).
>
>Caithlinn
>
If they are baggy, it may be more that the same dimensions will fit 
several different sizes of wearer.  My husband is six inches taller and 
fifty pounds heavier than me, but there is only about two inches 
difference in the size of our baggy braies.

Jean
-- 
Jean Waddie
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon May 16 16:13:32 2005
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Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 21:11:24 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: trousers
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C M <caithlinn@hotmail.com> wrote
>Hi,
>
>I made a pair of trousers following the remains detailed in the first 
>Haithabu publication on textiles (Textilfunde aus dem Hafen von 
>Haithabu, HĂ¤gg, 1984) and it was quite easy to see how closely they 
>follow the âoriginalâ pattern of the pants found in Thorsberg. 
>Apart from the fact that the remains of the trouser legs were probably 
>double layers (the fabric was *very* fine) and the orientation and 
>structure of the leg remains indicated that they were probably wide, 
>not narrow, there was virtually no difference. I should have phrased 
>the âexactly the sameâ differently, sorry, what I meant to say was 
>that the parts that define this particular cut (cause others are 
>different) are the same. The same dimensions, however, are not that 
>hard to come to terms with, when you assume a similar built of the 
>wearer, with the assumption that there might not have been as much 
>physical diversity then as there is nowadays (which is clearly an 
>assumption, no proof, but a feasible one).
>
>Caithlinn
>
If they are baggy, it may be more that the same dimensions will fit 
several different sizes of wearer.  My husband is six inches taller and 
fifty pounds heavier than me, but there is only about two inches 
difference in the size of our baggy braies.

Jean
-- 
Jean Waddie
_______________________________________________
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon May 16 18:51:38 2005
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	Mon, 16 May 2005 23:50:26 BST
Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 23:50:26 +0100 (BST)
From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] another SCORE!
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Ladies,
as a mere male, I am minded to let you know that you aren't the only ones to whom this kind of "find" happens.
I dropped-in to our local  Oxfam Centre [our equivalent of the US "Goodwill" shops, maybe?] a few month's back, to collect some "donated" garden-type wrought-iron work as the base for a charcoal brazier, and to  look for  any wood vessels, earthenware, and glass which our group might use at our "noonmeals" when "on stage" at Gorey Castle. 
The Oxfam Centre Organiser was unloading a van-load of donations, [mostly furniture], and struggling a bit on his own; and I offered a helping hand.
Unloading done, while taking a quick look round the cluttered "back store-room" for "feast-tableware", I stubbed my toes on an old handpowered Singer covered in dust in a corner beneath the cluttered shelves I was examining, and on an impulse asked "how much"? 
The answer was - "if you can use it, take it - we'll never sell that! But have a look in that old leather bag, and in the plastic case behind it, there are two other sewing machines in there which we've had for a very long time, too, if you are interested".
 I took a quick look - a dusty Italian-made plastic-bodied Singer 367 which seemed complete, in the bag; - and in the plastic carrying-case scuffed and thick with dust,  a shining new machine with all accessories, handbook, etc.  
"How Much?" says I.
" Oh, would Ł10 be too much?  Say Ł15 for the bowl, jugs, glasses, and the modern machine - you can have the two old Singers for helping me unload the van"
I paid-up, loaded-up, and departed hastily, before he had second-thoughts.
 In the case was a virtually unused "Bernina 801 Automatic Electronic".
Our Wardrobe Mistress seems to think I got "a good deal"  - 3 working sewing machines in return for 30 minutes helping to unload a van, and Ł10 in cash.


 


Yours in service, 
Julian Wilson,
[aka. Messire Matthew Baker/Matthieu Besquer, Governor & Castellan of Jersey, 1486-1497: - "Si vis pacem, para bellum"]
late-medieval Re-enactor; & Historian and Master Artisan to  
"The Companie of the Duke's Leopards",
[the only medieval living-history Group
in "olde" Jersey]
		
---------------------------------
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon May 16 19:16:53 2005
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
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The Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com , we have three online classes that might interest you all.  Two of these classes include a three month subscription to our online Library.

We have two online classes starting on Monday:
***A Fitting Image: Regency Clothing in Fashion Plates
***Elizabethan Glove Making: Make your own pair of gloves
***Beginning Embroidery: Techniques Used from 1910 - 1920: Part 1

The Beginning Embroidery is taught from the 1916-1920 Mary Brooks Picken's Domestic Arts embroidery series books.  This class will also include embroidery patterns from the 19th Century in our online Library.

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com 
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com 
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] SCORE!
Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 17:38:08 -0700
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Whatever you do keep all the instruction books.  I looked up mine and they
are nearly as much to replace with originals as I paid for the machine.
What I really want now is the button hole attachment.  Again, that's as much
as I paid for the whole thing.

Wanda
>
> New  Home  model  NLB,  in a cabinet, with instruction book and
> lots  of  accessories  at  least 40 years old (given to me by a
> friend)
>
> Pfaff serger (fussy little monster, but beautiful stitching)
>
> Brother serger (a back up for the fussy little Pfaff)
>
> and  my  latest acquisition that I purchased at an auction last
> month:
>
> An  1889  Singer   tredle  machine  in cabinet with instruction
> book, accessories and it works!
>
> I  don't  count  the  really old electric Singer that I haven't
> been able to get to work yet, but I only paid five bucks for it
> at  a  flea  market  and I still have hopes when I have time to
> fiddle with it.
>
>

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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] another SCORE!
Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 17:48:14 -0700
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Good thing I wasn't drinking anything when I read this!  That was indeed a
"good deal"

I keep reading about your group and Gorey Castle which I saw several years
ago and really wish there was some way to guide our England/Scotland trip
that way for at least one day! At least I may get to visit Terafan if he
hasn't been swept off to other places.

It is so nice of you to enjoy historical costuming and SCA talk without
feeling the need to sneer or take the moral high ground with "we're more
authentic than you are".  Makes learning from you and your group so very
pleasant because the defensive mechanism doesn't kick in!

Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey
Never attribute to malice what can as easily
be attributed to simple social ineptness


> I paid-up, loaded-up, and departed hastily, before he had second-thoughts.
>  In the case was a virtually unused "Bernina 801 Automatic Electronic".
> Our Wardrobe Mistress seems to think I got "a good deal"  - 3
> working sewing machines in return for 30 minutes helping to
> unload a van, and Ł10 in cash.
>
>
>
>

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Does anyone remember the very first one - Victorian or Edwardian House?  
That was one of the best ones - what I remember the most is how they 
discovered how incredibly BORED the women got because of the restrictions on 
their lives.  They said they thought that was why melodramas became so 
popular because it was an outlet.  So I liked that one because they actually 
learned something about the way our ancestors lived that they wouldn't have 
figured out without someone actually trying to live that way.  I knew their 
lives were restrictive, but watching the women try to live it and get so 
frustrated brought it home.

And talk about using clueless people - on Frontier House the bride, on her 
first day there, was shown (in her chemise) holding cans of baking powder 
and soda and saying "What ARE these?  Am I expected to cook with them?"   
Groan.

berenice


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] SCORE!
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Three or more of anything is a collection!
 I was just gifted with my 6th machine this weekend, clearly filling a
hole in my every other decade theme. Without apologies:
1990s  Viking embroidery machine; the only one I trust on delicate fabrics.
1980s  Babylock serger with differential feed and auto-threading. Ah, delicious.
1961    vintage Sears Kenmore, does leather, canvas and even Kevlar
(the bullet proof stuff) albeit s*l*o*w*l*y. (The kevlar was for a
competition epee fencing jacket.)
1940s  Kenmore in it's original worktable. Just received this weekend;
havent tried it yet, but it's got the book, and lots of fiddley bits.
Rumored that an SCA tent was made or repaired using this machine. 
Hefty!
1920s  "electrified" Singer (a former treadle converted to electric)
acquired 2yrs ago at the wonderful Stanford Treasure Market in it's
original worktable.
1897   Amazon handcranked "portable" machine, if 40 lbs is "portable".
Gold & red paint on black iron decoration, in original "carrying"
case. Fabulous ruffler, ribbon setting and piping attachments. The
others just cant beat it.
--cin

Subject: Re: [h-cost] SCORE!

>One hand cranked Singer, unknown age
...
>Suzi

Singer was an American company.  Patent numbers for my Amazon are on
one of the coverplates.  See if you can find them on yours.  You might
amuse yourself by looking up the patent numbers on USPTO.gov That
would give you a "no earlier than..." date.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Viking Music?
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On Friday 13 May 2005 2:34 pm, Julie wrote:
> OK.  I admit that I'm not up on Viking culture, but didn't Vikings have
> music?  Didn't they dance?  I can't imagine a group noted for alcohol
> consumption that didn't have some form of dancing at their gatherings.

I remember that they have found bone flutes and the remains of other 
instruments in digs, so the Vikings must have had music.  What the music 
sounded like, and whether and how they danced to it, I have no idea.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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On Monday 16 May 2005 11:56 am, penhalion@juno.com wrote:
[snip]

> And as for what dances they did, we have even less of a clue. Although, a
> number of years ago I ran across a reference that indicated a Christian
> missionary to the Norse was appalled by the Norse men dancing 'hip swinging
> dances' to honor the god of fertility Frey.

Oooh, I never heard of that.  Do you remember where you saw the reference, by 
chance?

> What exactly were 'hip swinging 
> dances'? I have no idea, but the idea of big, burly Vikings doing
> belly-dance is just too hilarious to ignore.

On the other hand, it might have looked more like the "Time Warp" from the 
Rocky Horror Picture Show (the connection to Frey, the well-endowed fertility 
god, made me think of this).

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Viking Music?
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On Monday 16 May 2005 2:21 pm, otsisto wrote:
> It's just a step to right... :)

Yes!  I thought of that too!  (See my response to Janet).

I guess great minds really do think alike.  :-)


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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Laura Waack wrote:

> And talk about using clueless people - on Frontier House the bride, on 
> her first day there, was shown (in her chemise) holding cans of baking 
> powder and soda and saying "What ARE these?  Am I expected to cook with 
> them?"   Groan.

After growing up in a household where food was always prepared fresh 
that was pretty much my reaction to canned pie filling.

OBsewing: at least when I was learning to use patterns there were 
pictures that explained each step. The can of pie filling just said 'use 
in your favorite pie shell'. Imagine a pattern with a finished picture 
and directions saying "Use with your favorite fabric."



Dawn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost]  Renfaire  ? Swat that fairy, ..I'll get the swatter...
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yes, sad isn't it? Went Sunday-hoping for teh best-
got to see new "things"For your  consideration.....
A 7 foot(no sh*t-really-that tall) Purple & silver
Lame`
clad , hoop wearing drag queen "fairy" queen. A
pantless man,(he was wearing a muslin lace-up front
shirt,probably bought at the Faire) maybe that's way
he had no pants-couldn't afford them after buying the
shirt....and a purple velour Cavalier/Pimp daddy hat.
A man wearing pants that looked like he was not
wearing any pants....with a codpiece....flesh colored
tights are just nasty on a guy.The denium utility
kilt/engineer boots guys....with shaved legs.
More Victorian corsets then an 1890's skivvie house.
Gandalf the grey,a smattering of hobbits,"Foxy Brown"
from Austin Powers.
120 yr old Italians- gals wearing 1450's EverAfter
Dresses. FAR too many Jack Sparrows...
(BIG SIGH....) Had to fight an over whelming urge to
knock a Fairy off his "KISS" soled shoes, and onto his
white feathered winged ass.
Southern Ren Faire has become a joke....so sad...
even the Queen was over heard to say "this is
rediculous" as she made her way thru the crowd.
  I know these people are "proud" of their ?costume?
attempts,....if they could just put that effort into 
real costuming..... 

--- Audrey Bergeron-Morin <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com>
wrote:
> > ... Enter Conan, Vulcans, klingons,
> demons,vampires,goths, Zebra people,hobbits elves
fairies....even Jack from  Jack in the Box fast
foods,in doublet & slops.
> 
> That's not a Renaissance Faire. That's an outdoors
> Sci-Fi convention.
> _

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>Ladies,
>as a mere male, I am minded to let you know that you aren't the only ones 
>to whom this kind of "find" happens.

What would make you think that?  Men just usually look for other things 
than we women do, and score differently at these places.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
             ////-@@\\\
            ((((   7 )))
             (((  <> ))))
                )   ((((((
           /----\   /---\))

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>Three or more of anything is a collection!

Oh, we're comparing sewing machine collections?

New Home, bought new in about 1990.  This is my workhorse.

New-ish Singer, given to me recently.  I don't know if it works but 
previous owner thought it didn't.  This will become my lender machine, if 
it can be made to work.

Deco toy machine that probably works, single thread.  Covered in really 
neat decals.  Was a gift.

c.1909 Franklin treadle in blocky beige-painted cabinet, found with 'free' 
sign on it two blocks from my house.  Came with extra bobbins, many 
attachments including under-braider jig, the manual, and a usable drive belt.

Wilcox and Gibbs without the original treadle but with 1940s-looking motor 
added.  Then I got one of the motorized bases the company made in the 
1940s. Latest patent date 1871 on the machine, but the company is still in 
business, so I have 5 brand new needles (grooved shanks - nothing else 
works).  Machine was $15 in thrift store.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Althea wrote:
> One thing to remember is the form is not the most important thing 
> about both of these garments. Both are rich in symbolism. 

I think that this is less true of saris. In India saris are worn on a daily baisis by millions of women.  In terms of the fabric used, saris can vary a great deal from year to year based on the whims of fashion.  
Sari's *do* carry some symbolic baggage (show me a garment that doesn't), but that isn't the most important thing about them.  I suggest _The Sari_ for a good description of how this looks in the modern world.
> 
> The sari is influenced greatly by the notions of purity, an ancient 
> Vedic (?) Hindu (?) principle.  

Sort of, the actual textual prohibition is against "stiched garments", the fact that this would include cholis tends to get ignored :)  In practice this seems to lend support to a rather nebulous notion that saris are somehow more womanly, more Indian, dressier and generally "better" than other kinds of garments.

>The most pure sari (if I am 
> remembering correctly) is plain white cotton with no seams. 

I don't know about the no seams part, but plain white saris are only worn by widows.  And although widows are supposed to be pure, most women don't aspire to be one.  In Bengal a white sari with a colored border (especially red) was and is frequently worn by married women.  And although widows (especially in urban areas) will often where colored sari's *plain* white saris have not become popular for non-widows.

> Saris 
> indicate caste and regional variations.
> 
Increasinly, this is becoming *can* indicate caste and regional variations.  In the last 50 years the nivi wrap has become the most common way to wrap a sari, slowly but surely edging out other styles.

-Katie

Buffy: And what are we if not women up to a challenge? 
Willow: Exactly!  I mean, did we not put the 'grr' in girl?






-- 
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] another SCORE!
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On Mon, 16 May 2005, julian wilson wrote:

> I dropped-in to our local Oxfam Centre [our equivalent of the US
> "Goodwill" shops, maybe?] a few month's back, to collect some
> "donated" garden-type wrought-iron work as the base for a charcoal
> brazier, and to look for any wood vessels, earthenware, and glass
> which our group might use at our "noonmeals" when "on stage" at Gorey
> Castle.
> ...

Stories like this make me very glad you're on this list! Thanks for an
entertaining tale.

--Robin


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re:Queens of Society
...
> >17. La Marquise de Maintenon

Oh, pretty please. Madame Mantenon.  The Mistress Extrodinaire.  From
governess (IIIRC) to titled gentry by way of the boudoir.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Colonial House / Frontier House/ travelogues
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Of which my favorite is Mrs Trollope (mother of the slightly more
famous Anthony Trollope, Victorian novelist. Her trip thru Boston, the
Appalacians, and Cleveland (where she lost the family business &
consequently the family fortune) is hilarious. Not that she intended
it to be hilarious, far from it. She considered it alternately
instructive to the poor beknighted "Colonials" and a warning to her
fellow countrymen. Her travelogue is Domestic Manners of the
Americans,  by Mrs Trollope. About 1830s IIRC.

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

Subject: Re: Re: [h-cost] Colonial House / Frontier House
Hello,

   There are a number of similiar comments from visitors to the
southern back country of America in the late 18th early 19th
centuries.  These people are often described as being scantily
dressed, dirty, and shoeless.  Of course many of these references come
from outsiders denigrating the society so there maybe exageration
represented here.

Ron Carnegie

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And I immediately thought of Elvis!
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Catherine Olanich Raymond<mailto:cathy@thyrsus.com> 
  To: Historical Costume<mailto:h-costume@indra.com> 
  Sent: Monday, May 16, 2005 10:46 PM
  Subject: Re: [h-cost] Viking Music?


  On Monday 16 May 2005 11:56 am, penhalion@juno.com<mailto:penhalion@juno.com> wrote:
  [snip]

  > And as for what dances they did, we have even less of a clue. Although, a
  > number of years ago I ran across a reference that indicated a Christian
  > missionary to the Norse was appalled by the Norse men dancing 'hip swinging
  > dances' to honor the god of fertility Frey.

  Oooh, I never heard of that.  Do you remember where you saw the reference, by 
  chance?

  > What exactly were 'hip swinging 
  > dances'? I have no idea, but the idea of big, burly Vikings doing
  > belly-dance is just too hilarious to ignore.

  On the other hand, it might have looked more like the "Time Warp" from the 
  Rocky Horror Picture Show (the connection to Frey, the well-endowed fertility 
  god, made me think of this).

  -- 
  Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com<mailto:cathy@thyrsus.com>>

  "Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 08:10:52 -0500
Subject: Re: [h-cost]  Renfaire  ? Swat that fairy, ..I'll get the swatter...
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As a longtime participant in Bristol RenFaire (owned by the same company
the owns Southern Faire- REC), I'm pretty sure that many of the folks you
described aren't actually performing at the Faire. The Fairies, I can't
vouch for because the management has decreed both them and Robin Hood to
be required at the Faire. They seem to think that people enjoy seeing
things that they can immediately recognize and identify with. All in all,
I think Bristol does it pretty well- Robin Hood isn't THE Robin Hood and
dresses in reasonably good Elizabethan. Our take on it is that Robin Hood
is more of an idea or national spirit who will manifest any time when the
people are oppressed. Our fairies are very subtle and kinda mysterious.
They rarely speak, they often spend hours at a time partially hidden in
small groves of trees where only those with sharp eyes will spot them-
they do alot of mime and interaction with children.....oh, and there
isn't an inch of lame on any of them, just some really cool airbrushed
costumes and body paint. Were those of us who do historical characters
thrilled when we were told about them?......not really, but I invite
anyone on the list to come to Bristol and see for themselves. 

On the other hand, there are all sorts of patrons who come dressed as
they please and the management really can't do anything to stop them. As
long as the outfit is 'street legal', they can't refuse anyone admission.
Bristol often has barbarians in leather and horn helmets, chain-mail
bikinis, demons with horns and 6 foot wings, men in utilikilts, barely
converted prom dresses, overweight lame and chiffon wrapped fairies, and
all manner of other costuming abominations- there's nothing we can do
about it. They paid for their tickets. We even had a pretty darn good
Vlad the Impaler wandering around one day. Unfortunately, if you don't
know what to look for, you might just assume that anyone in a costume-oid
thing has an official connection with the Faire......maybe.....maybe
not......

 I have been forwarding many of these notes to REC management as I truly
believe that they need to hear honest criticism from the public. I have
no idea what the end result will be, but your voices are being heard.



Karen
Seamstrix
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What would make you think that?  Men just usually look for other things

than we women do, and score differently at these places.
        CarolynKayta Barrows
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
It did not take to long to convert my hubby to the joys of thrift
shopping.  He's got a pretty good eye for a bargain, even for costume
bits and accessories, but I think what really keeps him going back is
looking for Lego :).  He found what we think is one of the original 3
sets produced by Lego a couple of weeks ago.  No box but the
instructions sheets were included.  They had *written* intructions for
putting the pieces together!  Near as he can tell he is only missing 2
or 3 pieces.  All for just $3 :).

I've never bought a sewing machine at a thrift store, mostly because
I'm pretty happy with the 4 I have :).  I do like to cruise for fabric
and have scored some great finds over the years, most recent was a nice
piece of teal wool which will make a great viking apron dress. 
Unfortunately the fashion for drapes has changed and the really good
brocade ones are next to impossible to find, at least around here.  Old
metallic belts are another item I keep an eye out for, great for girdles
and collars of estate.

Catherine

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Subject: [h-cost] Viking Music?
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About a zillion years ago, a lady in our area taught a class on Norse
dance. It seemed to consist of the circle and line variety. I'm sorry I
can't be more specific, but I only peeked in on it, and no longer have
her contact info.

Arlys

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Subject: Re: [h-cost]  Renfaire  ? Swat that fairy, ..I'll get the swatter...
Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 07:42:19 -0700
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> Southern Ren Faire has become a joke....so sad...
> even the Queen was over heard to say "this is
> rediculous" as she made her way thru the crowd.

No, what's ridiculous is a paid entertainer audibly dissing her audience, no
matter how poorly she considers them to be dressed.  If I were management,
I'd fire her for that.

I like historical accuracy as well as the next person, and have made
promoting it my life's work, but I started out as a performer, and I'd be
ashamed to have any Faire I worked represented so poorly.

Margo

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Subject: Re: [h-cost]  Renfaire  ? Swat that fairy, ..I'll get the swatter...
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I haven't been to a SciFi convention for a couple of years, but when I was actively going to them, we didn't appreciate the fantasy costumes either.  SciFi meant, Vulcans, Star Trek, Bab 5, and the like uniforms, and misc. aliens.  Any Science fiction costume was ok, but fairies, vampires, etc were sneered at.  All of that was only the cons that advertised as Scienc fiction AND fantasy.  Then there is Dragon Con where ANYTHING goes.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com> wrote:

From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 21:27:57 -0700 (PDT)
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]  Renfaire  ? Swat that fairy, ..I'll get the swatter...

yes, sad isn't it? Went Sunday-hoping for teh best-
got to see new "things"For your  consideration.....
A 7 foot(no sh*t-really-that tall) Purple & silver
Lame`
clad , hoop wearing drag queen "fairy" queen. A
pantless man,(he was wearing a muslin lace-up front
shirt,probably bought at the Faire) maybe that's way
he had no pants-couldn't afford them after buying the
shirt....and a purple velour Cavalier/Pimp daddy hat.
A man wearing pants that looked like he was not
wearing any pants....with a codpiece....flesh colored
tights are just nasty on a guy.The denium utility
kilt/engineer boots guys....with shaved legs.
More Victorian corsets then an 1890's skivvie house.
Gandalf the grey,a smattering of hobbits,"Foxy Brown"
from Austin Powers.
120 yr old Italians- gals wearing 1450's EverAfter
Dresses. FAR too many Jack Sparrows...
(BIG SIGH....) Had to fight an over whelming urge to
knock a Fairy off his "KISS" soled shoes, and onto his
white feathered winged ass.
Southern Ren Faire has become a joke....so sad...
even the Queen was over heard to say "this is
rediculous" as she made her way thru the crowd.
  I know these people are "proud" of their ?costume?
attempts,....if they could just put that effort into 
real costuming..... 

--- Audrey Bergeron-Morin <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com>
wrote:
> > ... Enter Conan, Vulcans, klingons,
> demons,vampires,goths, Zebra people,hobbits elves
fairies....even Jack from  Jack in the Box fast
foods,in doublet & slops.
> 
> That's not a Renaissance Faire. That's an outdoors
> Sci-Fi convention.
> _

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] SCORE!
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I have instruction books for the Singer tredle, and the old New Home here.  At the other house (and I must move that stuff soon) are books for the Singer 301, both sergers, the New Home MyExcell 4018, and the Kenmore.  If anyone needs those let me know off list and I will make copies for you.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com> wrote:

From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 17:38:08 -0700
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] SCORE!

Whatever you do keep all the instruction books.  I looked up mine and they
are nearly as much to replace with originals as I paid for the machine.
What I really want now is the button hole attachment.  Again, that's as much
as I paid for the whole thing.

Wanda
>
> New  Home  model  NLB,  in a cabinet, with instruction book and
> lots  of  accessories  at  least 40 years old (given to me by a
> friend)
>
> Pfaff serger (fussy little monster, but beautiful stitching)
>
> Brother serger (a back up for the fussy little Pfaff)
>
> and  my  latest acquisition that I purchased at an auction last
> month:
>
> An  1889  Singer   tredle  machine  in cabinet with instruction
> book, accessories and it works!
>
> I  don't  count  the  really old electric Singer that I haven't
> been able to get to work yet, but I only paid five bucks for it
> at  a  flea  market  and I still have hopes when I have time to
> fiddle with it.
>
>

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue May 17 11:43:44 2005
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From: "Shane & Sheridan" <shaneandsheridan@sympatico.ca>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost]  Renfaire  ? Swat that fairy, ..I'll get the swatter...
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Look at it this way,

On this list we are pretty spoilt (for the most part) for having
opportunities for dressing up in costume, be it SCA, Living History,
Victorian Teas, what have you. General public does not have this chance
outside of Haloween, which sadly only happens once a year. :-)

I can see why ren-faires and Cons are getting the grab-bag of costumes they
do, people are waiting to have the chance to play dress-up, regardless of
how appropriate their costume is to the setting. That outfit just sits and
collects dust otherwise.

Myself, I would love to have a venue to wear some of my non-medieval
costumes, I would also love to be able to make some more fantastical
costumes, but I don't because there is no opportunity for me to wear them
other than Haloween, and Costume Con, which is almost always waaaay to far
away and too expensive for me to get to. Not much point in spending all of
that time, money and effort into something that's just going to sit in a
closet, so my ideas just get put on the back burner.

Some folks just want to dress up because they never get to, so they do and
don't see that what they are wearing is "wrong" for the situation they are
in. They just want to have fun, and don't know or care that it may be
spoiling others enjoyment.

Just my two bits,

Sheridan :-)


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Shane & Sheridan wrote:

> On this list we are pretty spoilt (for the most part) for having
> opportunities for dressing up in costume, be it SCA, Living History,
> Victorian Teas, what have you. General public does not have this chance
> outside of Haloween, which sadly only happens once a year. :-)

That's their own fault, though.  The last time I went to a public 
halloween thing, I and my party were the Only Ones in costume, out of a 
couple hundred people.  Sad, very sad.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

The SCA is very tolerant of all types, including the ones that refuse to 
take their meds.  -- Anton of Winteroak
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]  dress-up/Renfaire 
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At 11:53 17/05/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>Shane & Sheridan wrote:
>
>>On this list we are pretty spoilt (for the most part) for having
>>opportunities for dressing up in costume, be it SCA, Living History,
>>Victorian Teas, what have you. General public does not have this chance
>>outside of Haloween, which sadly only happens once a year. :-)
>
>That's their own fault, though.  The last time I went to a public 
>halloween thing, I and my party were the Only Ones in costume, out of a 
>couple hundred people.  Sad, very sad.


At least you get to dress up at Halloween. Here, if you are lucky, some of 
the children put on cheap cloaks from the supermarket, but it is no big 
deal at all. My only chance is if I am invited by one of the groups I make 
costumes for - last year one event, this year, one event to come. Most of 
my "authentic" outfits (machines are authentic aren't they?) have only been 
worn three times each in 20 years!!! (I don't belong to any group - easier 
to work for all, claim loyalty to none.)

Suzi


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From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
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	<005701c55af7$6818b9c0$0a02a8c0@nodomainset.bellcanada>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]  Renfaire  ? Swat that fairy, ..I'll get the swatter...
Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 11:35:24 -0500
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While I've yet to actually ATTEND a renfaire, I have to admit I think of it 
as a place I could finally wear some of the Pre-Raphaelite* stuff I love to 
make.  And I am passionate about accuracy as well!

*read: a romanticized version of actual medieval styles. Fun to design and 
make, especially as an outlet when the accurate stuff doesn't look how I 
think it should look. Makes it easier to be so pickily accurate if I can go 
nuts ever so often!

-E House 

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Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 17:38:16 +0100 (BST)
From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] another SCORE!
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote: >Ladies,
>as a mere male, I am minded to let you know that you aren't the only ones 
>to whom this kind of "find" happens.

What would make you think that? Men just usually look for other things 
than we women do, and score differently at these places.
COMMENT
Well, I'd hazzard a guess that there are fewer men around on these Lists who settle down at a sewing-machine to make needed "cool stuff" from leathers or fabrics -  that none of the ladies in their Aquaintance have either the time, and/or/the knowledge, and/or the self-confidence to try to make for them.
 
When I was a teenager, as an example - I used to make my own racing-dinghy sails, cockpit-covers, and "over-the-booms tents" for "dayboat weekending" - because  a] I couldn't afford to have them made-up for me; - and b] had access to a sail-loft, and skills teachers, and a robust sewing-machine. But, so far as I recall, for example, - I was the only chap in my entire Year of 130 boys at my School who knew his way around a sewing machine. A very few  of my School Yearmates had been through Wolf Cubs and Boy Scouts, and were capable of sewing-on their own buttions, but so far as memory serves, - they were a tiny minority. 
Whereas the girls we dated would form their own sewing circles to make dresses for parties and dances. besides which, - they got Classes in Needlework at their Girls' Schools as a part of the normal curriculum. 
Amongst my Generation - [no, don't ask which one] - few males could sew, or even wanted to learn - that skill-set was still seen as a traditional part of the "female Role". 
 
So far as I know, at the moment I am the only male in our Companie who tries to make-up some of his own Kit when sewing is needed. Our membership has just reached 40 persons; and most of our Ladfies [and girls with help from Mum] seem to happily settle down to making Garb as they need it up to the limits of their skills.
 
Reading this back, it seems "hastily-composed" - but I trust the text explains why I felt that a man being pleased to acquire 3 sewing-machines for his own use in making re-enactment  "cool stuff" might seem just a little bit unusual.


 


Yours in service, 
Julian Wilson,
[aka. Messire Matthew Baker/Matthieu Besquer, Governor & Castellan of Jersey, 1486-1497: - "Si vis pacem, para bellum"]
late-medieval Re-enactor; & Historian and Master Artisan to  
"The Companie of the Duke's Leopards",
[the only medieval living-history Group
in "olde" Jersey]
		
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Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 10:19:06 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] another SCORE!
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> >as a mere male, I am minded to let you know that you aren't the only ones
> >to whom this kind of "find" happens.
>
>What would make you think that? Men just usually look for other things
>than we women do, and score differently at these places.

>Reading this back, it seems "hastily-composed" - but I trust the text 
>explains why I felt that a man being pleased to acquire 3 sewing-machines 
>for his own use in making re-enactment  "cool stuff" might seem just a 
>little bit unusual.

While being green with envy about your sewing machine finds, I'll try to 
clarify my point.  Men at thrift stores are usually not looking for sewing 
machines, and that would explain why they don't find them.  But if there 
were antique hand tools, the average man would spot these where I might 
not.  But I think the men of the women of this list have been pretty well 
trained by now, to spot things like sewing machines.  For example, when I 
spotted my Franklin treadle, while my gent and I was on my way someplace, 
his question was not about any need I had for another sewing machine but 
that I not take too long to look at it.  He's the one who gave me my Deco 
toy machine, and I'm the one who gave him his current machine to replace 
his old one.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
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Subject: [h-cost] Score! {Me, Too!!!}
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Status: RO

I'd like to play along on the Home Version. I have a 1990's Pfaff 6122, a 1980's Necci [ given to me in exchange for a pair of pants], a 1960's Brother and a Singer of somewhat dubious age, and lastly, a Kenmore serger from the 1990's.

		
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From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]  dress-up/Renfaire 
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Status: RO

 I'd like to tell about, A "well thought out way of
using your costumes all year" idea.
My daughters school had a youger teacher, 3 rd grade
instructor, who would (after clearing it w/the
Principal) dress up in a costume relating to the
subject he was teaching that quarter. If they were
studying, for instance "HArry POtter" book series he
would arrive in Wizards robes & pointy hat, discuss
the book, story line ,plot development,characters,then
throw in a fun "Craft" to do ,like make Wizard hats at
the end of the project.The projects got done without
complaining,the books read,and the homework done.
The kids ate it up! And I as a parent and costume nut
I couldn't wait to see who he was this month.
 This idea can be transfered to daycare- reading hour
at the library-nursing home visits-children's
hospitals-schools-docenting,if you really want to wear
your duds more then Haloween,you can and will find
venues. ,.....we dressed up for my Girl Scout troops
field trips sometimes to Historic houses.
 Just here , in my little area, we have Southern Ren
Faire, Koroneberg (smaller Renfaire) End of
Trail,Dickens Fest (3 day event)Victorian Feast,
Celebration in the Park,ACW events allover, Drum
Baracks,Victorian Market PLace,Swing Dance clubs,
Maxwell De Milles list of things to do, The Lively
Arts Historical Assoc. Victorian Balls,LARP, The
Labrynth of Jareth..... these events cover 1500 -1940
+ fantasy.
  I personally didn't know about these events until I
went looking for them,.. 
 With the internet info out there that no excuse not
to dress ,for your favorite "hobby".
 I dress with my kids at Haloween anyways,I've reached
the age of I don't care-I'm having fun.
 MAybe we should all do the Jedi mind trick on those
folks" Your costume is "lovely" ..I bet you'd look
stunning in a Elizabethan court dress/doublet & slops,
or pehaps a wealthy merchant....."

--- Cynthia Virtue
<cvirtue+dated+1131896762.d91248@thibault.org> wrote:
> Shane & Sheridan wrote:
> 
> > On this list we are pretty spoilt (for the most
> part) for having
> > opportunities for dressing up in costume, be it
> SCA, Living History,
> > Victorian Teas, what have you. General public does
> not have this chance
> > outside of Haloween, which sadly only happens once
> a year. :-)
> 
> That's their own fault, though.  The last time I
> went to a public  halloween thing, I and my party
were the Only Ones in costume, out of a  couple
hundred people.  Sad, very sad.
> 
> -- 
> Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent
> 
> 


		
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue May 17 14:24:01 2005
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	Tue, 17 May 2005 11:22:59 PDT
Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 11:22:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] dress-up/Renfaire - Costume Depravation Syndrome (CDS)
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

Gosh ,it's hard to believe a country as rich in
history as the UK dosen't do anymore to promote it.
 Maybe you could whisper ideas about a grand Masque
Ball, ...Fund raiser of course, to one of the museums
head people.
 "Phantom ofthe Opera" is still running ,yes? Maybe a
collective effort with the theater, do the Masqarade
theme.
 Your Historical societies do nothing in that vein?
Heck, Cahrles Dickens only visited here in the USA and
we have festivals and Balls in his honor... 
I feel for you....costume deprivation!
Melody


--- Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:
> At 11:53 17/05/2005 -0400, you wrote:
> >Shane & Sheridan wrote:
> >
> >>On this list we are pretty spoilt (for the most
> part) for having
> >>opportunities for dressing up in costume, be it
> SCA, Living History,
> >>Victorian Teas, what have you. General public does
> not have this chance
> >>outside of Haloween, which sadly only happens once
> a year. :-)
> >
> >That's their own fault, though.  The last time I
> went to a public 
> >halloween thing, I and my party were the Only Ones
> in costume, out of a 
> >couple hundred people.  Sad, very sad.
> 
> 
> At least you get to dress up at Halloween. Here, if
> you are lucky, some of 
> the children put on cheap cloaks from the
> supermarket, but it is no big 
> deal at all. My only chance is if I am invited by
> one of the groups I make 
> costumes for - last year one event, this year, one
> event to come. Most of 
> my "authentic" outfits (machines are authentic
> aren't they?) have only been 
> worn three times each in 20 years!!! (I don't belong
> to any group - easier 
> to work for all, claim loyalty to none.)
> 
> Suzi
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


		
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From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] another SCORE!
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

 Here in the USA,the schools have cut back on Domestic
Arts courses. We are too busy teaching our kids how to
take test,so they can create test from the test
results to test the testing..
 You should be proud of the fact you can sew and pass
this knowledge onto the younger guys....heck hold
classes at the events on how to sew...call it "the
Manly Art of Sewing"..or "Bold and Sewing Men"..get
those pups hooked, point out the savings in making it
yourself.
 You go Julian!

--- julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
> >  COMMENT
> > When I was a teenager, as an example - I used to
> make my own racing-dinghy sails, 
> > I was the only
> chap in my entire Year of 130 boys at my School who
> knew his way around a sewing machine. 
>   
> So far as I know, at the moment I am the only male
> in our Companie who tries to make-up some of his own
> Kit when sewing is needed. 
>  
> > Yours in service, 
> Julian Wilson,
> [aka. Messire Matthew Baker/Matthieu Besquer,
> Governor & Castellan of Jersey, 1486-1497: - "Si vis
> pacem, para bellum"]
> late-medieval Re-enactor; & Historian and Master
> Artisan to  
> "The Companie of the Duke's Leopards",
> [the only medieval living-history Group
> in "olde" Jersey]
> 		
> -


		
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] dress-up/Renfaire - Costume Depravation Syndrome (CDS)
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At 11:22 17/05/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>Gosh ,it's hard to believe a country as rich in
>history as the UK dosen't do anymore to promote it.
>  Maybe you could whisper ideas about a grand Masque
>Ball, ...Fund raiser of course, to one of the museums
>head people.
>  "Phantom ofthe Opera" is still running ,yes? Maybe a
>collective effort with the theater, do the Masqarade
>theme.
>  Your Historical societies do nothing in that vein?
>Heck, Cahrles Dickens only visited here in the USA and
>we have festivals and Balls in his honor...
>I feel for you....costume deprivation!
>Melody


There is a Dickens Fair in Rochester I think, in Kent, but I don't drive, 
and it is one of the periods - 1840-60 - I look like a tea cosy in, being 
short and fat. I'm happy to go to the medieval one in the summer - I get to 
wear a wonderful horned headdress that a great milliner made for me, which 
I then covered in Ł60.00 per metre brocade - about 10" of each!! And  if 
they need the floor sweeping, that's no problem - I have an 8 yard hem!!

Suzi



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Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 11:57:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]  Renfaire  ? Swat that fairy, ..I'll get the swatter...
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

 I really don't have it out for Fairies,in general, I
just believe a domain for everything, and everything
in its appropriate domain. 
I like Amy Brown's Art work, and Brian Froud's "folk"
I just don't like them at my Ren Faire. I even made my
DD a Gothic Fairy outfit last year, BUT she was going
to a Haloween Party, I personally would like to make a
Copy of one of A.Brown's pictures and wear it to the
Labrynth of Jareth event (a costume ball in the vein
of the movie "Labrynth" if you don't know what it
is)...I just can't decide which one.
 And ,interesting side note, my friend and 5 of her
buds showed up at Devore one yr. dressed in Star Trek
v.1 velour outfits,boots, tri corders, and were turned
away before buying tickets.Their argument about "shore
leave" didn't get them past the gate. 
 So it hasn't always been "tacky city".You can almost
track the "decline".
 Our friend who is in a Guild at Southern,told us the
reason for the Fairies this year,is because one of the
Faire organizers niece wanted to dress up as a fairie,
ergo the "Fairy Guild".
 Maybe we should dust off the Star Trek outfits,some
ones nephew might want to start an Alien Guild :~)

--- Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com> wrote:
> I haven't been to a SciFi convention for a couple of
> years, but when I was actively going to them, we
> didn't appreciate the fantasy costumes either. 
> SciFi meant, Vulcans, Star Trek, Bab 5, and the like
> uniforms, and misc. aliens.  Any Science fiction
> costume was ok, but fairies, vampires, etc were
> sneered at.  All of that was only the cons that
> advertised as Scienc fiction AND fantasy.  Then
> there is Dragon Con where ANYTHING goes.
> 
> Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender
> 
> 
> --- Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
> 
> From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
> Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 21:27:57 -0700 (PDT)
> To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost]  Renfaire  ? Swat that fairy,
> ..I'll get the swatter...
> 
> yes, sad isn't it? Went Sunday-hoping for teh best-
> got to see new "things"For your  consideration.....
> A 7 foot(no sh*t-really-that tall) Purple & silver
> Lame`
> clad , hoop wearing drag queen "fairy" queen. A
> pantless man,(he was wearing a muslin lace-up front
> shirt,probably bought at the Faire) maybe that's way
> he had no pants-couldn't afford them after buying
> the
> shirt....and a purple velour Cavalier/Pimp daddy
> hat.
> A man wearing pants that looked like he was not
> wearing any pants....with a codpiece....flesh
> colored
> tights are just nasty on a guy.The denium utility
> kilt/engineer boots guys....with shaved legs.
> More Victorian corsets then an 1890's skivvie house.
> Gandalf the grey,a smattering of hobbits,"Foxy
> Brown"
> from Austin Powers.
> 120 yr old Italians- gals wearing 1450's EverAfter
> Dresses. FAR too many Jack Sparrows...
> (BIG SIGH....) Had to fight an over whelming urge to
> knock a Fairy off his "KISS" soled shoes, and onto
> his
> white feathered winged ass.
> Southern Ren Faire has become a joke....so sad...
> even the Queen was over heard to say "this is
> rediculous" as she made her way thru the crowd.
>   I know these people are "proud" of their ?costume?
> attempts,....if they could just put that effort into
> 
> real costuming..... 
> 
> --- Audrey Bergeron-Morin
> <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com>
> wrote:
> > > ... Enter Conan, Vulcans, klingons,
> > demons,vampires,goths, Zebra people,hobbits elves
> fairies....even Jack from  Jack in the Box fast
> foods,in doublet & slops.
> > 
> > That's not a Renaissance Faire. That's an outdoors
> > Sci-Fi convention.
> > _
> 
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Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 12:30:12 -0700
From: Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Renfaire ? Swat that fairy, ..I'll get the swatter...
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Melody, I remember hearing about the people turned away in their Star
Trek outfits at Southern. And now look, fairies and mud fights. Sigh.

We had a group of Klingons come to the Northern Faire many years ago -
they all looked great from the tops of their wrinkled foreheads to the
spikes on their boots, including wigs,pointed teeth and weapons. One
woman wanted to meet the Queen and wasn't allowed to. She argued that
she was wearing a outfit she had made especially for the faire, all
natural fabrics and such; all her materials were documentable to
Elizabethan England. She insisted on her authenticity and got quite
angry about the refusal of several people, including our guildmaster,
to let her near the queen. She absolutely couldn't figure out that the
faire didn't want a science fiction (FICTION) character in full
Klingon makeup and teeth near the woman playing the HISTORICAL queen
of England. Finally someone suggested that if she could document a
Klingon visit to 16 Century England they would be happy to let her see
the queen at her next visit. She and her group stormed away. Several
months later at a corset making class, I heard her tell this story to
a group of people, and she was still angry about it. Somehow she seems
to have forgotten that her Klingon costume was inappropriate to the
picture we were making; even though she had worked to make the costume
in natural fabrics it wasn't an Elizabethan costume. I tried to
explain the situation, but I don't think it made any difference. I
repeat, her costume and makeup and the costumes and makeup of all her
group were quite professional and looked just like the television
program costumes, but they simply didn't fly in our world.

Perhaps we should have given her an alternative argument, one that she
could understand. What country in the universe would willingly put
their ruler in the midst of a fully armed unit of soldiers of a
foreign country?

LynnD

On 5/17/05, Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com> wrote:

>  And ,interesting side note, my friend and 5 of her
> buds showed up at Devore one yr. dressed in Star Trek
> v.1 velour outfits,boots, tri corders, and were turned
> away before buying tickets.Their argument about "shore
> leave" didn't get them past the gate.
>  So it hasn't always been "tacky city".You can almost
> track the "decline".
>  Our friend who is in a Guild at Southern,told us the
> reason for the Fairies this year,is because one of the
> Faire organizers niece wanted to dress up as a fairie,
> ergo the "Fairy Guild".
>  Maybe we should dust off the Star Trek outfits,some
> ones nephew might want to start an Alien Guild :~)

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Subject: Re: [h-cost]  dress-up/Renfaire 
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> Shane & Sheridan wrote:
>
> > On this list we are pretty spoilt (for the most part) for having
> > opportunities for dressing up in costume, be it SCA, Living History,
> > Victorian Teas, what have you. General public does not have this chance
> > outside of Haloween, which sadly only happens once a year. :-)

Cynthia wrote:
> That's their own fault, though.  The last time I went to a public
> halloween thing, I and my party were the Only Ones in costume, out of a
> couple hundred people.  Sad, very sad.

I know what you mean there, for the last 5 years running, I have been the
only person at my place of employment to dress up at all for Haloween, even
after a variety of people expressed an interest. Last year I 'cheated' and
wore an Elizabethan garb, instead of making something new.

Sheridan


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As regards Klingons and Star Trek Away Teams- we've had both at Bristol. The Kinglons often in full kilts. Sigh.....it is amusing to watch their wrinkly Klingon foreheads melt off in the heat tho.....As for the Away Team, we happen to have a guy on the Fight Cast who bears a remarkable resemblance to Captain Striker- which he is quite aware of. At one point he stalked past the Away Team while in full Elizabethans and angrily snapped into a fictional communicator "Get these guys off MY Holodeck simulation!!!". He has a great sense of humor. 

Bristol was also 'blessed' with being a short drive from GenCon (big gaming convention now in Indianapolis but used to be based in Milwaukee)and every year we'd get scores of D&D/LARP groups who would all visit the Faire in full kit. I used to have lots of fun lookign them over and decideing "Okay, that's the Fighter, that's the Mage, that one is probably the Thief......" It just hasn't been the same since GenCon moved away....sniff......


Karen
Seamstrix
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Shane & Sheridan wrote:

> I know what you mean there, for the last 5 years running, I have been the
> only person at my place of employment to dress up at all for Haloween,

Work is a special case.  Sometimes it's much to one's advantage to fly 
below the radar.  But in private life, in venues that celebrate 
halloween or creativity, or whatever?  It's odd.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

The SCA is very tolerant of all types, including the ones that refuse to 
take their meds.  -- Anton of Winteroak
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>If they are baggy, it may be more that the same dimensions will fit several 
>different sizes of wearer.  My husband is six inches taller and fifty 
>pounds heavier than me, but there is only about two inches difference in 
>the size of our baggy braies.

Only the legs are supposedly baggy and the exact measurements of them are 
not known due to the small pieces that actually remained. The dimensions I 
was talking about are the ones of the crotch pieces, which might differ in 
different people.....

Cheers,

Caithlinn


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] another SCORE!
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Julian, when I was in school (back in the dark ages) girls took home ec and boys took shop.  It still annoys me that they thought the boys shouldn't be able to boil water or sew on buttons and the girls couldn't be trusted with power tools.  I have ten sewing machines and a nice collection of power tools (including a table saw and a heavy duty drill that a guy thought was "too much" for me to handle) that I use with equal ferver now.  

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 17:38:16 +0100 (BST)
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] another SCORE!

Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com> wrote: >Ladies,
>as a mere male, I am minded to let you know that you aren't the only ones 
>to whom this kind of "find" happens.

What would make you think that? Men just usually look for other things 
than we women do, and score differently at these places.
COMMENT
Well, I'd hazzard a guess that there are fewer men around on these Lists who settle down at a sewing-machine to make needed "cool stuff" from leathers or fabrics -  that none of the ladies in their Aquaintance have either the time, and/or/the knowledge, and/or the self-confidence to try to make for them.
 
When I was a teenager, as an example - I used to make my own racing-dinghy sails, cockpit-covers, and "over-the-booms tents" for "dayboat weekending" - because  a] I couldn't afford to have them made-up for me; - and b] had access to a sail-loft, and skills teachers, and a robust sewing-machine. But, so far as I recall, for example, - I was the only chap in my entire Year of 130 boys at my School who knew his way around a sewing machine. A very few  of my School Yearmates had been through Wolf Cubs and Boy Scouts, and were capable of sewing-on their own buttions, but so far as memory serves, - they were a tiny minority. 
Whereas the girls we dated would form their own sewing circles to make dresses for parties and dances. besides which, - they got Classes in Needlework at their Girls' Schools as a part of the normal curriculum. 
Amongst my Generation - [no, don't ask which one] - few males could sew, or even wanted to learn - that skill-set was still seen as a traditional part of the "female Role". 
 
So far as I know, at the moment I am the only male in our Companie who tries to make-up some of his own Kit when sewing is needed. Our membership has just reached 40 persons; and most of our Ladfies [and girls with help from Mum] seem to happily settle down to making Garb as they need it up to the limits of their skills.
 
Reading this back, it seems "hastily-composed" - but I trust the text explains why I felt that a man being pleased to acquire 3 sewing-machines for his own use in making re-enactment  "cool stuff" might seem just a little bit unusual.


 


Yours in service, 
Julian Wilson,
[aka. Messire Matthew Baker/Matthieu Besquer, Governor & Castellan of Jersey, 1486-1497: - "Si vis pacem, para bellum"]
late-medieval Re-enactor; & Historian and Master Artisan to  
"The Companie of the Duke's Leopards",
[the only medieval living-history Group
in "olde" Jersey]
		
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Hi,

I have a question.
At what age did girls start to wear corsets in the 19th century?
Did they wear the same corsets as adults?

I started to wonder after I saw a child corset on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=20291&item=8305868033&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

Greetings,
       Deredere

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From: Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Renfaire ? Swat that fairy, ..I'll get the swatter...
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Status: RO

I'm no longer connected to any ren faires (so this is a personal
comment, not from a faire organization - and not directed to any one
person), but if you've all followed the conversation, the ren faire
isn't the place to wear a pre-Raphaelite dress - or the Klingon,
fairy, medieval or Wicked Witch of the West outfits that people wear
to the fairs. To those people working at the faires trying to bring
authenticity to it, it's frustrating to spent $400 on a dress that
would look right in QEWU and be lumped into the same picture as Snow
White in the minds of visitors who don't know that Snow White is a
visitor. I started a tirade on REC and deleted it; this is not the
venue.

However, when someone from a SciFi venue says that Fantasy costumes
are sneered at, it's the same thing. Dressing up is a privelege not a
right, and one should try to dress appropriately unless it's Halloween
and anything goes. I applaud the willingness to wear a costume and try
to join in the fun - I really do. But it's still frustrating to really
work hard on making the appropriate picture and have someone in
screaming pink satin costume, or even a very nice 15 C Venetian dress,
plunk themselves down in the middle of the Elizabethan nobles and skew
our picture. The Venetian dress, as nice as it may be, is as bad to
the picture as the pink dress. As nice as my Elizabethan court dress
is, I would never wear it to the Dickens Fair, or a SciFi convention 
or a Fantasy convention; it's not appropriate.

End of rant, off the soap box. Sorry.
LynnD



On 5/17/05, E House <formfunc@formfunction.org> wrote:
> While I've yet to actually ATTEND a renfaire, I have to admit I think of it
> as a place I could finally wear some of the Pre-Raphaelite* stuff I love to
> make.  And I am passionate about accuracy as well!
> 
> *read: a romanticized version of actual medieval styles. Fun to design and
> make, especially as an outlet when the accurate stuff doesn't look how I
> think it should look. Makes it easier to be so pickily accurate if I can go
> nuts ever so often!
> 
> -E House
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] another SCORE!
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> But if there 
> were antique hand tools, the average man would spot these where I might 
> not.  But I think the men of the women of this list have been pretty well 
> trained by now, to spot things like sewing machines. 

I subscribe to another list, for collectors and users of old woodworking hand tools.  The members (mostly male) report frequently on their finds at flea markets, garage sales, etc.   The messages read very much like those about old sewing machines here.

Glenn McDavid
gmcdavid@winternet.com
gmcdavid@comcast.net
http://www.winternet.com/~gmcdavid



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From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] another SCORE!
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com> wrote: SNIP
You should ......SNIP...... pass this knowledge onto the younger guys....heck hold classes at the events on how to sew...call it "the Manly Art of Sewing"..or "Bold and Sewing Men"..get those pups hooked, point out the savings in making it yourself.
You go Julian!

 
COMMENT
Ah, Melody, - if I only had the time..... I already teach mediaeval fighting techniques according to Talhoffer, Leichtenhauer, Silver, and Fiori del Liberi, and choreograph our fight-students'  "combats" at our events; and have just accepted two young but very enthusiastic girls as my Apprentices in Heraldic Art. That's as much "teaching load" as I can handle right now, but the suggestion and sentiments are most welcome

 

Yours in service, 
Julian Wilson,
[aka. Messire Matthew Baker/Matthieu Besquer, Governor & Castellan of Jersey, 1486-1497: - "Si vis pacem, para bellum"]
late-medieval Re-enactor; & Historian and Master Artisan to  
"The Companie of the Duke's Leopards",
[the only medieval living-history Group
in "olde" Jersey]
		
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Subject: Re: [h-cost]  dress-up/Renfaire
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Suzi Clarke wrote:

> At least you get to dress up at Halloween.

Can you not make up your own holiday, or have a block party with 
costumes or something?

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

The SCA is very tolerant of all types, including the ones that refuse to 
take their meds.  -- Anton of Winteroak
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> You should be proud of the fact you can sew and pass
> this knowledge onto the younger guys....heck hold
> classes at the events on how to sew...call it "the
> Manly Art of Sewing"..or "Bold and Sewing Men"..get
> those pups hooked, point out the savings in making it
> yourself.

Heck, just tell 'em it's a "power fabric joining tool". 

Dianne

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Lynn Downward wrote:

> or even a very nice 15 C Venetian dress,
> plunk themselves down in the middle of the Elizabethan nobles and skew
> our picture.

Surely it can't be any worse than a patron in jeans and a T-shirt? 
Maybe I'm not understanding what you mean by "picture" here.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

The SCA is very tolerant of all types, including the ones that refuse to 
take their meds.  -- Anton of Winteroak
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Yeah, that would annoy me too! At my school, both girls and boys did sewing 
and cooking. There was no "shop" class. A shame, really. I saw some of the 
projects they had them do a few years before, it looked like it was a lot of 
fun!

Maybe I was better off in sewing class, though. I can pick up any paper or 
fabric related craft in minutes (sewing, origami, embroidery, knitting, 
weaving, etc. etc.) but, to this day, I can not use a hammer right. Nails 
always go in crooked, whatever I do, no matter how much coaching I've gotten 
from my dad and boyfriend, and no matter if it's the first or the 20th 
nail... Very frustrating for me not to be able to use a tool properly. Maybe 
it's related in some way to the fact that I can't throw right either ;-)

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lalah" <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>

> Julian, when I was in school (back in the dark ages) girls took home ec 
> and boys took shop.  It still annoys me that they thought the boys 
> shouldn't be able to boil water or sew on buttons and the girls couldn't 
> be trusted with power tools.  I have ten sewing machines and a nice 
> collection of power tools (including a table saw and a heavy duty drill 
> that a guy thought was "too much" for me to handle) that I use with equal 
> ferver now.
>
> Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender
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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]  dress-up/Renfaire
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Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> Suzi Clarke wrote:
>
>> At least you get to dress up at Halloween.
>
>
> Can you not make up your own holiday, or have a block party with 
> costumes or something?
>
Quite-- until fairly recently (when I moved to a smaller house), I had 
theme/fancy dress parties on a fairly regular basis.  Other people I 
know still do.  There was a B-Grade Horror party last weekend. One of 
the cleverest (thrown by some friends) was the "20th Century Re-Creation 
Society Ball".

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]  dress-up/Renfaire
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At 15:23 17/05/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>Suzi Clarke wrote:
>
>>At least you get to dress up at Halloween.
>
>Can you not make up your own holiday, or have a block party with costumes 
>or something?


My neighbours did not even offer us a cup of tea, or a warm room to sit in 
one year when our electricity went off for 23 hours due to a cable fault on 
Christmas Day. I don't think I will be holding parties with them somehow!! 
Maybe next year's Twelfth Night party - who knows?

Suzi


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Subject: [h-cost] Re:Score! now:Serger reviews needed
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Hi
My loyal 2nd hand serger is dying. JoAnns is having a sale on a White 
serger this week. Anyone out there have any comments on White 
sergers? Are they fairly dependable? I only put moderate use on one...
Thanks
Carol, who has lots o boat anchors er sewing machines and yet the 
machine to die is the lone serger--go figger. Just when it is needed 
for curtains...<G>
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 16:01:58 -0700
From: Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Renfaire ? Swat that fairy, ..I'll get the swatter...
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I certainly realize that the picture we try to produce is always
elusive. However, what we'd like is that if a visitor is daydreaming
and suddenly focuses at something, he'll think he's just stepped into
a period painting.  The eye tends to accept and block out the visitors
in jeans and t-shirts, but historical clothing pops out, so if it's
the wrong period or Snow White, the brain can't block it out. That's
when the other visitors say that the accuracy of the costuming is bad
- they see that 15 C Venetian as a bad version of and Elizabethan. I
said it poorly before, but that's what I meant. And yes, in this case,
it IS worse than the patron in jeans/t-shirt.

LynnD

On 5/17/05, Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue+dated+1131919111.209fd6@thibault.org> wrote:
> Lynn Downward wrote:
> 
> > or even a very nice 15 C Venetian dress,
> > plunk themselves down in the middle of the Elizabethan nobles and skew
> > our picture.
> 
> Surely it can't be any worse than a patron in jeans and a T-shirt?
> Maybe I'm not understanding what you mean by "picture" here.
> 
> --
> Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent
> 
> The SCA is very tolerant of all types, including the ones that refuse to
> take their meds.  -- Anton of Winteroak
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] another SCORE
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Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com> wrote: Julian, when I was in school (back in the dark ages) girls took home ec and boys took shop. It still annoys me that they thought the boys shouldn't be able to boil water or sew on buttons and the girls couldn't be trusted with power tools. I have ten sewing machines and a nice collection of power tools (including a table saw and a heavy duty drill that a guy thought was "too much" for me to handle) that I use with equal ferver now. 
 
COMMENT
Lalah, over our side of the pond, there were areas of the UK where the most of the formal educational system still was - in my day - gender-oriented learning just as you describe. 
Until the various Labour and Socialist politicians ruined it, the UK Educational System was not only very good, but also very conservative, very slow-to-change. This is not surprising, since by then it was being run by administrators, teachers, and politicians whose formative years had been anywhere from about 1890 to 1925, and had brought those very-traditional "patriarchal" attitudes with them on gaining high-level educational-decision-making posts.
 
But there were considerable groups of exceptions - 'off the top of my head' - the WW2 children of WW2 women factory- and shipyard- workers, of ex-Service parents, especially where the mothers were ex-WRNS, -WAAF's.; -WAAC's, Womens Land Army, WVS, &c ; plus those children who joined the Boy Scouts, the Girl Guides, the Boys' Brigade and the GLB - all of those kids had the opportunity to learn self-reliance outside the old gender-oriented pre-War sterotypes; - and many of them grabbed those opportunities with both hands, encouraged by parents whose own war experiences had "broadened their mental horizons" about "gender-oriented" learning.  For example, 10's of thousands of British girls and women learned to drive and to maintain motor vehicles during their WW2 'war-work'
 
But although their numbers were much greater than they would have been pre-1939, - they were still exceptions to the general, 'gender-oriented-learning' rules which obtained for the children of most of UK society between 1945 and about 1960.
 
However, we are getting a  long-way from the original thread, rather tenuously skirting a connection with costume and historical garb, at that - so perhaps we ought to button-up this discussion, which is tending to cloak the List's avowed main focus, - before we needle the Moderator[s]?
 
Gods, - did I really write that last para.? That's worthy of Callahan's Bar on Punday Night.
 
Regards,
Julian





Yours in service, 
Julian Wilson,
[aka. Messire Matthew Baker/Matthieu Besquer, Governor & Castellan of Jersey, 1486-1497: - "Si vis pacem, para bellum"]
late-medieval Re-enactor; & Historian and Master Artisan to  
"The Companie of the Duke's Leopards",
[the only medieval living-history Group
in "olde" Jersey]
		
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Offhand, (ie without checking), the visual history of corsets has repros of 
victorian adverts adverts that list childrens corsets sized for 6-8 months.  
(Possibly even younger, although would need to check that.)

The very early ones (in age not date) were usually more about posture and 
making the child stand up straight (and were worn by boys as well as girls). 

The ads in the book show that boys stayes continued roughly straight, while 
girls gradually got more waist shaping (allowing the tight lacing as adults - 
bones still soft).  

The book also goes into details of the consequences of continual tight 
lacing, and I have to say, yuck!!!

Debs
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On Friday 13 May 2005 2:13 pm, C M wrote:
>I made a pair of trousers following the remains detailed in the first
>Haithabu publication on textiles (Textilfunde aus dem Hafen von
>Haithabu, Hägg, 1984) and it was quite easy to see how closely they
>follow the original pattern of the pants found in Thorsberg

Yes, that was the item I was referring to when I mentioned that the remains 
were very small scraps.  Im glad it works for you, and considering that 
its all that we have, I certainly am in no position to tell you that the 
interpretation you are following is wrong  I will say that it was not 
convincing to me the last time I compared the information on the scraps.

Now, please dont take this the wrong way  Im not intending on making an 
attack here, but to be honest, even the Damendorf trousers arent that- 
similar to the Thorsbjorg, which to me suggests that people making the 
clothes for those centuries werent working from -A- set of patterns, but 
rather (probably) a set of concepts.  So, to me, saying that some of the 
Haithabu/Hedeby scraps are similar to the Thorbjerg trousers, therefore the 
Thorsbjerg trousers must be the pattern for all Scandinavian trousers for a 
thousand year period just seems a bit iffy.

Marc


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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: 19th cenrury childs corset
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Debloughcostumes@aol.com wrote:

>The ads in the book show that boys stayes continued roughly straight, while 
>girls gradually got more waist shaping (allowing the tight lacing as adults - 
>bones still soft).
>
That's not entirely true-- most adult women never went for serious 
tight-lacing. 



-- 

Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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I have 3 sewing machines and 3 sets of dishes these 2 items seem to bug my
husband terribly.  He tried to get his mother on his side about the dishes
but she just showed him her 3 sets.  I hate having to wait till father's day
to get a good deal on my power tools and why aren't they ever for sale on
mother's day.  I need another kitchen gadget like a hole in the head.  My
children keep trying to get one of my machines but I buy them used ones
instead.

Brin Kendall


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "julian wilson" <smnco37@yahoo.co.uk>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2005 4:05 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] another SCORE


Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com> wrote: Julian, when I was in school (back
in the dark ages) girls took home ec and boys took shop. It still annoys me
that they thought the boys shouldn't be able to boil water or sew on buttons
and the girls couldn't be trusted with power tools. I have ten sewing
machines and a nice collection of power tools (including a table saw and a
heavy duty drill that a guy thought was "too much" for me to handle) that I
use with equal ferver now.


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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 19th cenrury childs corset
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Deredere Galbraith wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I have a question.
> At what age did girls start to wear corsets in the 19th century?
> Did they wear the same corsets as adults?
>
> I started to wonder after I saw a child corset on ebay
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=20291&item=8305868033&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW 
>


I don't think this is for a "child" as such-- I think it was probably 
made for a very small teenage girl or young woman. 

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue May 17 20:03:05 2005
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From: Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] another SCORE!
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Status: RO

It just takes practice.  And even now, after many, many projects, I can still slip and smack my thumb (did it last week - not fun).  The greatest invention of modern man has been the electric screw driver though!  Ok, this is a costume list not a woodworking list, but sometimes you need a tool or two for costumes.  Hard to make pattens without a hammer and tacks.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com> wrote:

From: "Audrey Bergeron-Morin" <audreybmorin2@hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 18:08:17 -0400
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] another SCORE!

Yeah, that would annoy me too! At my school, both girls and boys did sewing 
and cooking. There was no "shop" class. A shame, really. I saw some of the 
projects they had them do a few years before, it looked like it was a lot of 
fun!

Maybe I was better off in sewing class, though. I can pick up any paper or 
fabric related craft in minutes (sewing, origami, embroidery, knitting, 
weaving, etc. etc.) but, to this day, I can not use a hammer right. Nails 
always go in crooked, whatever I do, no matter how much coaching I've gotten 
from my dad and boyfriend, and no matter if it's the first or the 20th 
nail... Very frustrating for me not to be able to use a tool properly. Maybe 
it's related in some way to the fact that I can't throw right either ;-)

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lalah" <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>

> Julian, when I was in school (back in the dark ages) girls took home ec 
> and boys took shop.  It still annoys me that they thought the boys 
> shouldn't be able to boil water or sew on buttons and the girls couldn't 
> be trusted with power tools.  I have ten sewing machines and a nice 
> collection of power tools (including a table saw and a heavy duty drill 
> that a guy thought was "too much" for me to handle) that I use with equal 
> ferver now.
>
> Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender
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From: Onaree Berard <msberard@gmail.com>
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Or "Textile Engineering"

Onaree

On 5/17/05, Dianne & Greg Stucki <goofy1@suscom.net> wrote:
> 

> 
> Heck, just tell 'em it's a "power fabric joining tool". 
> 
> Dianne
>

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From: "Megan M." <megan@benchite.com>
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Lalah, I need a copy of the New Home instruction book (for the treadle) for
a friend who I just gave my New Home treadle to.  Your email address did not
come up on this email so email me.
Thanks,
-Megan
Megan  at  benchite dot com

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lalah
Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2005 11:01 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] SCORE!

I have instruction books for the Singer tredle, and the old New Home here.
At the other house (and I must move that stuff soon) are books for the
Singer 301, both sergers, the New Home MyExcell 4018, and the Kenmore.  If
anyone needs those let me know off list and I will make copies for you.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com> wrote:

From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 17:38:08 -0700
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] SCORE!

Whatever you do keep all the instruction books.  I looked up mine and they
are nearly as much to replace with originals as I paid for the machine.
What I really want now is the button hole attachment.  Again, that's as much
as I paid for the whole thing.

Wanda
>
> New  Home  model  NLB,  in a cabinet, with instruction book and
> lots  of  accessories  at  least 40 years old (given to me by a
> friend)
>
> Pfaff serger (fussy little monster, but beautiful stitching)
>
> Brother serger (a back up for the fussy little Pfaff)
>
> and  my  latest acquisition that I purchased at an auction last
> month:
>
> An  1889  Singer   tredle  machine  in cabinet with instruction
> book, accessories and it works!
>
> I  don't  count  the  really old electric Singer that I haven't
> been able to get to work yet, but I only paid five bucks for it
> at  a  flea  market  and I still have hopes when I have time to
> fiddle with it.
>
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Renfaire ? Swat that fairy, ..I'll get the
  swatter...
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>I certainly realize that the picture we try to produce is always
>elusive. However, what we'd like is that if a visitor is daydreaming
>and suddenly focuses at something, he'll think he's just stepped into
>a period painting.  The eye tends to accept and block out the visitors
>in jeans and t-shirts, but historical clothing pops out, so if it's
>the wrong period or Snow White, the brain can't block it out. That's
>when the other visitors say that the accuracy of the costuming is bad
>- they see that 15 C Venetian as a bad version of and Elizabethan. I
>said it poorly before, but that's what I meant. And yes, in this case,
>it IS worse than the patron in jeans/t-shirt.

I guess I'm just better able to separate one reality from another.  I 
actually look forward to seeing the better wrong costumes at Ren. 
Faire.  But then, I do fiber art stuff and science fiction/fantasy 
conventions too.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 18:47:06 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 19th cenrury childs corset
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>>I started to wonder after I saw a child corset on ebay
>>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=20291&item=8305868033&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW 
>>
>
>I don't think this is for a "child" as such-- I think it was probably made 
>for a very small teenage girl or young woman.

I agree.  Contemporary adverts for children's corsets show items much more 
cylindrical than the one you found on e-bay, because actual kids are built 
that way.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 19th cenrury childs corset
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On Tuesday 17 May 2005 9:47 pm, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> >>I started to wonder after I saw a child corset on ebay
> >>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=20291&item=8305868
> >>033&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW
> >
> >I don't think this is for a "child" as such-- I think it was probably made
> >for a very small teenage girl or young woman.
>
> I agree.  Contemporary adverts for children's corsets show items much more
> cylindrical than the one you found on e-bay, because actual kids are built
> that way.

I've looked at a number of descriptions of Victorian items on Ebay, and I've 
found that vendors vary greatly in their degree of knowledge about what 
they're selling.  As a result, a lot of vintage items are mischaracterized.  

I suspect that this vendor is presuming that the corset is for a child simply 
because the measurements are so small.  To give another example of the same 
type of error, I've seen some of the 1870's and 1880's small bonnets 
advertised on Ebay as "doll's bonnets" or "child's bonnets" because the 
seller didn't realize that there was a fashion for small hats that were 
perched on the head and not intended to cover all or even most of it.....


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] 19th cenrury childs corset
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>I suspect that this vendor is presuming that the corset is for a child simply
>because the measurements are so small.  To give another example of the same
>type of error, I've seen some of the 1870's and 1880's small bonnets
>advertised on Ebay as "doll's bonnets" or "child's bonnets" because the
>seller didn't realize that there was a fashion for small hats that were
>perched on the head and not intended to cover all or even most of it.....

I've seen those 19-teens crochet nightgown tops/yokes called everything 
from collars to bras.  Yes, not everyone knows what they're 
selling.  Sometimes this means a bargain, and sometimes it means an 
unreasonably high price...

        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Renfaire ? Swat that fairy, ..I'll get the swatter...
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Do you mean Jonathan Riker from TNG or is there a Captain Striker that is in
one of the other STs?

De

-----Original Message-----
...As for the Away Team, we happen to have a guy on the Fight Cast who bears
a remarkable resemblance to Captain Striker- which he is quite aware of.


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I LOVE my husband's cordless power drill almost as much as I love my 
sewing machings! :) 

Lalah wrote:

> (including a table saw and a heavy duty drill that a guy thought was "too much" for me to handle) that I use with equal ferver now.  
>
>Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender
>
>
>  
>


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Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 07:23:17 -0500
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Renfaire ? Swat that fairy, ..I'll get the swatter...
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Hehehehehe.......guess I just blew my Sci-Fi geek cover.....Yep, that
would be Riker not Striker....have a friend who's into SF named Striker
and had a blonde moment.....



Karen 
Seamstrix



On Tue, 17 May 2005 23:47:04 -0500 "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net> writes:
> Do you mean Jonathan Riker from TNG or is there a Captain Striker 
> that is in
> one of the other STs?
> 
> De
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> ...As for the Away Team, we happen to have a guy on the Fight Cast 
> who bears
> a remarkable resemblance to Captain Striker- which he is quite aware 
> of.
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] SCORE!
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I needed to clarify this on the list.  The New Home isn't THAT old.  It is electric.  The Singer is a treadle.  Sorry for not being clear.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- "Megan M." <megan@benchite.com> wrote:

From: "Megan M." <megan@benchite.com>
Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 21:00:14 -0400
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] SCORE!

Lalah, I need a copy of the New Home instruction book (for the treadle) for
a friend who I just gave my New Home treadle to.  Your email address did not
come up on this email so email me.
Thanks,
-Megan
Megan  at  benchite dot com

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Lalah
Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2005 11:01 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] SCORE!

I have instruction books for the Singer tredle, and the old New Home here.
At the other house (and I must move that stuff soon) are books for the
Singer 301, both sergers, the New Home MyExcell 4018, and the Kenmore.  If
anyone needs those let me know off list and I will make copies for you.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com> wrote:

From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 17:38:08 -0700
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] SCORE!

Whatever you do keep all the instruction books.  I looked up mine and they
are nearly as much to replace with originals as I paid for the machine.
What I really want now is the button hole attachment.  Again, that's as much
as I paid for the whole thing.

Wanda
>
> New  Home  model  NLB,  in a cabinet, with instruction book and
> lots  of  accessories  at  least 40 years old (given to me by a
> friend)
>
> Pfaff serger (fussy little monster, but beautiful stitching)
>
> Brother serger (a back up for the fussy little Pfaff)
>
> and  my  latest acquisition that I purchased at an auction last
> month:
>
> An  1889  Singer   tredle  machine  in cabinet with instruction
> book, accessories and it works!
>
> I  don't  count  the  really old electric Singer that I haven't
> been able to get to work yet, but I only paid five bucks for it
> at  a  flea  market  and I still have hopes when I have time to
> fiddle with it.
>
>

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Dear Listers,
since getting into your sewing-machine thread, I have been minded to look-up the "old" hand-operated Singer I acquired from the Oxfam Shop - and discovered that it's a Model 15K dating from the 1950's and made in Glasgow. Thanks to webpage and website links noted during my research, I have been able to download a copy of the Users' Manual. Now to have it serviced, and look for an appropriate table and/or travelling case.
The Bernina 801 Electronic came "complete with *everything* ", too, - [lots of accessories whose uses I have even begun to explore as yet]; - though I have been unable to discover when the Model was marketed, - and it would be nice to know from what Year to what Year. 
It runs like a dream, and I've already stitched-up a couple of medieval Banners with it, and am working on a commander's Standard at the moment.
 
But the Italian-made Singer 367? Try as I might over the last few days, I have been unable to find any Period of Production dating ; -though I probably not asking the right questions of my search engines. And as for finding the machine's production-date by the Serial number - I cannot even find out how to open the base - which I presume is where I'll find the Maker's Plate with Serial Number - since there isn't one anywhere else on the visible exterior of this machine.
So some info assistance from you helpful people would be appreciated. And I'd like to obtain a copy of the Users' Manual, as well. Though this machine does run, again, - it's very dirty externally, and came to me in an un-zipped leather bag - so I guess that machine will also need serving, at the least.
 
would anyone care to comment from your obviously extremely-extensive knowledge of using sewing machines, - on how the Singer 367 and the Bernina 801 Eelectronic were/rare rated by professional or semi-professional [i.e. serious amateur] users?
Your comments will be much appreciated.




Yours in service, 
Julian Wilson,
[aka. Messire Matthew Baker/Matthieu Besquer, Governor & Castellan of Jersey, 1486-1497: - "Si vis pacem, para bellum"]
late-medieval Re-enactor; & Historian and Master Artisan to  
"The Companie of the Duke's Leopards",
[the only medieval living-history Group
in "olde" Jersey]
		
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My copy of Medieval Clothing and Textiles just arrived.  I haven't even had a chance to look at it yet - it is just out of the box.

Happy Dance!!
Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender



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Why wait for a "reason" to dress up??? Just do it, BECAUSE YOU CAN!!! I do it every so often, just to see the reactions of others. And every Friday is Tiara Friday for a few friends of mine and me. Just beacause we can. Taht's my two-cents worth.

		
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Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 11:27:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris <emeraldepona@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] IT'S HERE, IT'S HERE!!!
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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I SO hope mine shows up today...can't wait to get home from work!!!
 
Chris G.

Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com> wrote:

My copy of Medieval Clothing and Textiles just arrived. I haven't even had a chance to look at it yet - it is just out of the box.

Happy Dance!!
Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender



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From: Irmgart <irmgart@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Renfaire
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and really, that's part of where you get into the people wearing
inappropriate costumes to events... "just because they can."

Not saying that you shouldn't wear "X" to whatever the heck you want,
just that it can inappropriate for the venue. (Pirate wear at $1 movie
showing of Pirates of the Carribean is appropriate, at the premier of
Star Wars, not so much)

-Irmgart

On 5/18/05, Jodi Nelson <faerieglenstudios@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Why wait for a "reason" to dress up??? Just do it, BECAUSE YOU CAN!!! I do it every so often, just to see the reactions of others. And every Friday is Tiara Friday for a few friends of mine and me. Just beacause we can. Taht's my two-cents worth.

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Giggle, snort.  Where do you work?  I get enough weird looks when I wear garb for Halloween.  I'm going to try and introduce the local workforce to women in long skirts.  I hate stockings <G>.
Julie

> 
> Why wait for a "reason" to dress up??? Just do it, BECAUSE YOU CAN!!! I do it every so often, just to see the reactions of others. And every Friday is Tiara Friday for a few friends of mine and me. Just beacause we can. Taht's my two-cents worth.
> 

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fastusminimus wrote:

> Hi
> My loyal 2nd hand serger is dying. JoAnns is having a sale on a White 
> serger this week. Anyone out there have any comments on White sergers? 
> Are they fairly dependable? I only put moderate use on one...
> Thanks


White makes a respectable machine. I haven't heard much, good or bad 
about them. I have an old metal one that sews like a dream, but I don't 
use it because I have a fancy new digital Viking. Not sure how the newer 
models compare.

The best thing to do is go test drive the one you're looking at and see 
how it sews and whether you like it.



Dawn


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Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 19:09:37 +0100
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Renfaire
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At 10:17 18/05/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>Why wait for a "reason" to dress up??? Just do it, BECAUSE YOU CAN!!! I do 
>it every so often, just to see the reactions of others. And every Friday 
>is Tiara Friday for a few friends of mine and me. Just beacause we can. 
>Taht's my two-cents worth.


I can just see me popping into Sainsbury's in my medieval horned headdress 
and 8 yard skirt, collecting dust and small animals and children as I 
go.  Or sitting at my sewing machine, sweeping scissors and pins everywhere 
and smothering the cat!!

No, no, I save mine for special occasions, when there is someone there to 
help me tighten a corset or straighten a veil - it's a pain when you can't 
do them yourself due to physical disabilities.

I "think" I may be able to wear my contouche in December too - in an 18th 
century building - yay!!

Suzi, wearing T-shirt and cotton trews so I can see the cat and not tread 
on her - she gets *very* close!!


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>So some info assistance from you helpful people would be appreciated. And 
>I'd like to obtain a copy of the Users' Manual, as well. Though this 
>machine does run, again, - it's very dirty externally, and came to me in 
>an un-zipped leather bag - so I guess that machine will also need serving, 
>at the least.
>
>would anyone care to comment from your obviously extremely-extensive 
>knowledge of using sewing machines, - on how the Singer 367 and the 
>Bernina 801 Eelectronic were/rare rated by professional or 
>semi-professional [i.e. serious amateur] users?
>Your comments will be much appreciated.

Start here:  http://www.ismacs.net  It's all old-sewing machine people.  I 
downloaded the manual for my c.1871 Wilcox and Gibbs from there.

        CarolynKayta Barrows
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          www.FunStuft.com

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I'm making 1620's Belgian garb for my 5-year old son -his first pair of breeches. 
Hopefully the weather will co-operate and the event will be outside; we've had major schizophrenic weather in Winnipeg with 22C one day and -5C with snow the next.

If we're outside I don't want his brains to bake, but I can't find a portrait with a hat. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Happy Spring
Wendy
www.hecate.ca/emma/



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>If we're outside I don't want his brains to bake, but I can't find a 
>portrait with a hat. Any suggestions?

Use a man's hat.  Little boys were miniature men, remember?


        CarolynKayta Barrows
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          www.FunStuft.com

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Hi,

I have a 10 year old Janome MyLock 234d.  It sews fine but it is very
wimpy, it cannot sew canvas.  Two layers of cotton, no problems; I'd
give it a fair rating.

Good Luck.
Annette

-----Original Message-----


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Wendy wrote:
> 
> I'm making 1620's Belgian garb for my 5-year old son -his first pair of breeches. 
> Hopefully the weather will co-operate and the event will be outside; we've had major schizophrenic weather in Winnipeg with 22C one day and -5C with snow the next.
> 
> If we're outside I don't want his brains to bake, but I can't find a portrait with a hat. Any suggestions?
> 


I have a scan of a poor copy of an unnamed, undated painting by a 
Flemish artist named David Teniers. I'm guessing 1620-1640 ish. The 
little boy wears a hat which looks like a flat cap:

www.reddawn.net/costume/art/photos/hats/teniers2.jpg


IIRC this artist did a lot of peasant genre paintings, continuing in the 
16th tradition. Perhaps you can find others.


Dawn


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We got tickets online tonight to see Star Wars 3!!!!  Yippee!!!!!  Our local theater is showing the film on all 20 screens at midnight tonight.  By 6pm all but two screens were sold out!  Funny, my husband has had a birthday present to see all six episodes over the years.   What am I going to give him for a present in the future? Someone needs to make another cool series of films. 
 
I'll let you know about the costumes when I return.  If anyone else gets to see Star Wars 3 tonight... it would be fun to hear your opinion of the costumes.

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com 
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com 
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
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Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 22:53:07 -0400
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Subject: [h-cost] Costume notes 1662: sarcenet
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Excerpt:

"At home I found my wife discontented at my being abroad, but I pleased 
her. She was in her new suit of black sarcenet and yellow petticoat very 
pretty."

http://www.pepysdiary.com/archive/1662/05/18/index.php
-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

The SCA is very tolerant of all types, including the ones that refuse to 
take their meds.  -- Anton of Winteroak
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From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Renfaire ? Swat that faire ... and their squed sense of
	propriety
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 My Peeve point exactly,
 I too,wrote the REC, with my same opinion as yours, I
got back a "form" type reply with the standard " we
are trying to appeal to as wide an audience as
possible...." a statement made by a fellow board
member said that if you charge for admission you can't
restrict what people wear in.
What about all the signs I see with "we reserve the
right to refuse admission/service to anyone".
 True you can't take a persons money THEN say"no you
can't come in I don't like your outfit".
 But, I know Disney land can and will tell you "Sorry"
if they don't like your clothes. Heck they made a
friend roll down her shorts legs cause they thought
they were   to close to the bottom of her bottom.When
she started to protest they said "ok, no ticket".
 I know dance clubs will not let you in if they don't
think your garb is appropriate.
So I really can't see that as a valid "excuse" to let
in
PopEye or Batman.
 Now, if REC wants to change the color and tone of
Faire and call it simply "Fantasy Faire" I'll quit
complaning,
and going.I can't see the duplicity of telling the
hired help "you must wear this, behave like this,talk
like this" when they can't respect their performers
enough to do the same at the gate. 
I have no problem with Mundanes attending, dressing up
is a choice...(my husband will not even consider
dressing, I don't make him, just getting him to go
more then once every 20 years is hard enuff.) My 4
kids,would never consider NOT dressing and are
learning to make their own garb.
 But please ,don't ruin my once a year escape for 6
hrs,
where courtly men "make a leg" when you pass...and
gentility rules for the day.
 Melody



--- Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com> wrote:
> I'm no longer connected to any ren faires (so this
> is a personal
> comment, not from a faire organization - and not
> directed to any one
> person), but if you've all followed the
> conversation, the ren faire
> isn't the place to wear a pre-Raphaelite dress - or
> the Klingon,
> fairy, medieval or Wicked Witch of the West outfits
> that people wear
> to the fairs. To those people working at the faires
> trying to bring
> authenticity to it, it's frustrating to spent $400
> on a dress that
> would look right in QEWU and be lumped into the same
> picture as Snow
> White in the minds of visitors who don't know that
> Snow White is a
> visitor. I started a tirade on REC and deleted it;
> this is not the
> venue.
> 
> However, when someone from a SciFi venue says that
> Fantasy costumes
> are sneered at, it's the same thing. Dressing up is
> a privelege not a
> right, and one should try to dress appropriately
> unless it's Halloween
> and anything goes. I applaud the willingness to wear
> a costume and try
> to join in the fun - I really do. But it's still
> frustrating to really
> work hard on making the appropriate picture and have
> someone in
> screaming pink satin costume, or even a very nice 15
> C Venetian dress,
> plunk themselves down in the middle of the
> Elizabethan nobles and skew
> our picture. The Venetian dress, as nice as it may
> be, is as bad to
> the picture as the pink dress. As nice as my
> Elizabethan court dress
> is, I would never wear it to the Dickens Fair, or a
> SciFi convention 
> or a Fantasy convention; it's not appropriate.
> 
> End of rant, off the soap box. Sorry.
> LynnD
> 
> 
> 
> On 5/17/05, E House <formfunc@formfunction.org>
> wrote:
> > While I've yet to actually ATTEND a renfaire, I
> have to admit I think of it
> > as a place I could finally wear some of the
> Pre-Raphaelite* stuff I love to
> > make. ......
> > 
> > -E House
> > 
> 


		
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From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]  dress-up/Renfaire     Cold Xmas 
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What was this guys name? Ebanezer? So much for the
Christmas spirit! Hope he got a lump of coal in his
stocking.....

--- Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk> wrote:
> At 15:23 17/05/2005 -0400, you wrote:
> >Suzi Clarke wrote:
> >
> >>At least you get to dress up at Halloween.
> >
> >Can you not make up your own holiday, or have a
> block party with costumes 
> >or something?
> 
> 
> My neighbours did not even offer us a cup of tea, or
> a warm room to sit in 
> one year when our electricity went off for 23 hours
> due to a cable fault on 
> Christmas Day. I don't think I will be holding
> parties with them somehow!! 
> Maybe next year's Twelfth Night party - who knows?
> 
> Suzi
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


		
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Serger review
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Carol,

I have a White serger and really like it, but it's at least 15 yrs old.  I 
don't know if the new ones are as good or not.  It's not fancy (doesn't do 
rolled hems easily, manual threading, etc.) but it's gotten me (and hubby) 
thru miles of velvet, lame', satins, and all kinds of weird fabrics.  At 
the time, it was one of the heaviest sergers made, which means it doesn't 
dance all over the table when you run it at full speed.

In all this time, it's only needed routine cleanings and tune-ups - no 
major repairs.

HTH,
Sandy

At 06:06 PM 5/17/2005, you wrote:

>Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 18:42:53 -0400
>From: fastusminimus <cahuff@mindspring.com>
>
>My loyal 2nd hand serger is dying. JoAnns is having a sale on a White
>serger this week. Anyone out there have any comments on White
>sergers? Are they fairly dependable? I only put moderate use on one...
>Thanks

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 23:37:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Serger review
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
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> Carol,
>
> I have a White serger and really like it, but it's at least 15 yrs old.  I
> don't know if the new ones are as good or not.  It's not fancy (doesn't do
> rolled hems easily, manual threading, etc.) but it's gotten me (and hubby)
> thru miles of velvet, lame', satins, and all kinds of weird fabrics.  At
> the time, it was one of the heaviest sergers made, which means it doesn't
> dance all over the table when you run it at full speed.
>
> In all this time, it's only needed routine cleanings and tune-ups - no
> major repairs.

I can say the same thing about my Juki serger.  I was told that the type
to buy is the kind that has two blades and cuts the fabric with a scissor
action.  It is kind of a pain to thread but it runs like a champ.  I have
only replaced the needles once and the blades once in 10 years.  And it
has gone through anything I throw at it.

I would buy one again in a heartbeat.

HTH,

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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From: Cin <cinbarnes@gmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] A busk -- was: another SCORE!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] another SCORE!

>> Manly Art of Sewing"..or "Bold and Sewing Men"..get
>> those pups hooked, point out the savings in making it
>> yourself.

>Heck, just tell 'em it's a "power fabric joining tool".
>Dianne

Funny!   Costume with powertools... which reminds me of a story.

A few weeks back I went to one of the usual Sewing Hells. Since I'm
working on a very late Elizabethan with a drum farthingale, the
head-on-a platter ruff, you know that look.  "All I need..." you know
you've said that... "is a busk".  Oh, not those itsy bitsy little
Victorian ones. Pooh-pooh!  I need a real busk.  A big ole triangle of
carved & polished  wood, shove it down your corset, dance La Volta
kinda busk.

So along with all my silks & laces & corset & farthingale, I trot off
to the Sewing Hell with a piece of ash off the wood pile.  A friend
removed an ash tree out from under her foundation a couple years back,
so this chunk was dirty, but nicely aged.  I had a sketch of a busk,
plan view &  crosssection view, on a paper napkin. We do that in
Silicon Valley, engineering diagrams and business plans are best done
on napkins.  It's a local tradition.

When I got to the sewing Hell, I asked Brian, the gentleman of the
house, how to render this chunk of ash into a busk per my drawing. 
"Oh, if you had a piece of wood... I could try," says he.  I think he
was a little surprised when he got his hands on my ash.  Off he went
to the garage. It's beautiful wood with a fine white grain.  Doesnt
split easily.  Sands smoothly. Anyway, by the end of the evening, he'd
turned firewood to ladies' underwear.

Now that he's added his makers mark (SCA arms) to my busk he's
thinking about entering it in one of the local SCA arts competitions.
Something about period underpinings.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Yippee!!!!  Star Wars 3
Date: Thu, 19 May 2005 19:43:45 +1200
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I got to see it on Monday NZ time, which would have been Sunday States
time;)

I went in costume, Padme's final one.

My very brief review is on my costuming journal:
http://www.livejournal.com/users/pinkdiamond/

I haven't gone itno too much detail as most people haven't seen it yet, and
as some costumes are rather spoilery when you try and discuss the symbolism
of them....;)

Padme's final costume reminded me greatly of Waterhouse's most famous
Ophelia. Indeed there was a deliberate use of water as a theme for Padme,
which becomes obvious as a foil to what happens to another character.

Mind you the only surprises for me was in what was cut out as I frequent
http://theforce.net 's costuming and props board as well as
http://www.padawansguide.com to know as much about the costumes as possible.


michaela de bruce
http://costumes.glittersweet.com

<<<We got tickets online tonight to see Star Wars 3!!!!  Yippee!!!!!  Our
local theater is showing the film on all 20 screens at midnight tonight.  By
6pm all but two screens were sold out!  Funny, my husband has had a birthday
present to see all six episodes over the years.   What am I going to give
him for a present in the future? Someone needs to make another cool series
of films.

I'll let you know about the costumes when I return.  If anyone else gets to
see Star Wars 3 tonight... it would be fun to hear your opinion of the
costumes.

Penny Ladnier>>>



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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Hello everybody.
I have ben lurking you lately, and just want to tell you all that i leave 
Copenhagen in a coupple of hours to join the gustavians in Stockholm.
We are celebrating spring party at Nyckelviken again and i shall wear my 
"replica" cut wise of the weddingsuit of Gustav III. from 1766.
I made it excatly in cut so i shall have to have a straight posture with 
narrow shoulders and breast pushed forward.
I am very pleased with the result, with silver bobbin lace edged all over. 
The colour of the duchesse silk is sky blue.
Unfortunately i did not have the time to make bobbin lace for the waistcoat 
so it is plain.
The rich duchesse satin is very nice to sew with. I interlined the whole 
coat with heavy linnen and lined it with silk.
This time i used really replicas of button molds made in wood.
I will promise you all pictures from the event wich is on saturday 
afternoon. I shall make pictures for you next week.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Cin wrote:

> I think he was a little surprised when he got his hands on my ash.

You really should warn us if you're going to write a sentence like that!

>  Anyway, by the end of the evening, he'd
> turned firewood to ladies' underwear.

It's so keen when someone does that.  I saw a man turn firewood into a 
spoon once, because he wanted to do something while hanging around the fire.

> Now that he's added his makers mark (SCA arms) to my busk he's
> thinking about entering it in one of the local SCA arts competitions.
> Something about period underpinings.

But you said it was ash, not pine!

Good story!

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

The SCA is very tolerant of all types, including the ones that refuse to 
take their meds.  -- Anton of Winteroak
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Date: Thu, 19 May 2005 04:39:41 -0700
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A busk -- was: another SCORE!
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>I had a sketch of a busk,
>plan view &  crosssection view, on a paper napkin. We do that in
>Silicon Valley, engineering diagrams and business plans are best done
>on napkins.  It's a local tradition.

There's an add-on program for AutoCad which makes your nice drawing look 
like it was done on a paper napkin.  All the lines bleed a little, 
artistically of course.  No, I'm not making this up.  I saw it in an 
AutoCad magazine.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

              //// \\\
             ////-@@\\\
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             (((  <> ))))
                )   ((((((
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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@iimetro.com.au>
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References: <20050517042757.73976.qmail@web32901.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<004301c55aee$a2085ae0$25d14fd1@dnyeaqvf>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]  Renfaire  ? Swat that fairy, ..I'll get the swatter...
Date: Thu, 19 May 2005 22:50:05 +1000
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: <lists@margospatterns.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 12:42 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Renfaire ? Swat that fairy, ..I'll get the swatter...


> > Southern Ren Faire has become a joke....so sad...
> > even the Queen was over heard to say "this is
> > rediculous" as she made her way thru the crowd.
>
> No, what's ridiculous is a paid entertainer audibly dissing her audience,
no
> matter how poorly she considers them to be dressed.  If I were management,
> I'd fire her for that.
>
<snip> Margo
>

Actually if the comment was just 'this is ridiculous' there's no actual
indication that she was commenting on the patrons clothing. Without being
there and seeing the context I'd be just as likely to assume that somebody
had forgotten a vital prop or done something else that made it unnecessarily
difficult for her to do her job (i.e perform as the Queen). Perhaps Melody
knows something we don't (she was there after all) but I wouldn't jump to
the conclusion that such a comment had anything to do with what the patrons
were wearing.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]iimetro.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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Question for those of you who do the museum scene.
What is the current attitude/scholarship regarding the use/necessity of wearing museum gloves when handling artifacts in your venues?

Kathleen
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] white gloves
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At 10:02 19/05/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>Question for those of you who do the museum scene.
>What is the current attitude/scholarship regarding the use/necessity of 
>wearing museum gloves when handling artifacts in your venues?


At the 17th century study day I went to in Maidstone last week, the 
conservator wore latex gloves of some kind.  She was handling garments, 
gloves, and a stump work box of absolutely exquisite workmanship. The 
quality of the embroidery was like painting, and the box was quite beautiful.

At the Museum of London, where I am a volunteer, gloves are worn for 
handling garments, except under very particular circumstances. We were 
rolling a huge Victorian paisley shawl for storage, and it was impossible 
to keep it taut and smooth while wearing gloves. It was safer to have clean 
hands than to possibly cause damage by mishandling. They were very 
unusual  circumstances, however, and normally the curators do wear gloves.

Suzi


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From: "kim baird" <kbaird@cableone.net>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] white gloves
Date: Thu, 19 May 2005 09:31:39 -0500
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Status: RO

Opinion is, as usual, divided.

In general, if the work you need to do with an object allows the wearing
of gloves, then wear them.

An exception might be handling slippery items such as ceramics. In that
case, either wear non-skid gloves or wash hands before handling with
bare hands.

If you need to handle objects without gloves, (for instance, to sew on a
tag) you must wash your hands frequently. And you have to remember not
to touch your face or hair, because doing that will pick up oils, and
you'll have to wash again.

If you are handling artifacts to show them to visitors, wearing gloves
is a good idea. Same thing goes as for clean hands--do not touch face,
hair, or other objects with the gloves. I find I have to take the gloves
off frequently, then put them back on for handling atifacts. Get clean
gloves as often as necessary.

Kim

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Lloyd Mitchell
Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 9:03 AM
To: H-Costume
Subject: [h-cost] white gloves


Question for those of you who do the museum scene.
What is the current attitude/scholarship regarding the use/necessity of
wearing museum gloves when handling artifacts in your venues?

Kathleen
_______________________________________________
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From: Chris <emeraldepona@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] lurker call
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Have FUN!!!  I, for one, can not wait to see the pictures.  
 
Chris G.

Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
Hello everybody.
I have ben lurking you lately, and just want to tell you all that i leave 
Copenhagen in a coupple of hours to join the gustavians in Stockholm.
We are celebrating spring party at Nyckelviken again and i shall wear my 
"replica" cut wise of the weddingsuit of Gustav III. from 1766.
I made it excatly in cut so i shall have to have a straight posture with 
narrow shoulders and breast pushed forward.
I am very pleased with the result, with silver bobbin lace edged all over. 
The colour of the duchesse silk is sky blue.
Unfortunately i did not have the time to make bobbin lace for the waistcoat 
so it is plain.
The rich duchesse satin is very nice to sew with. I interlined the whole 
coat with heavy linnen and lined it with silk.
This time i used really replicas of button molds made in wood.
I will promise you all pictures from the event wich is on saturday 
afternoon. I shall make pictures for you next week.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue+dated+1132047504.53a923@thibault.org>
>> I think he was a little surprised when he got his hands on my ash.

>You really should warn us if you're going to write a sentence like that!

It was just a test to see how carefully you'd read... <grin> We were
doing stupid tree jokes like that all evening.  Once Brian finished
sanding the busk we were all pining, as you said, to touch it's smooth
white ash.

From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
>There's an add-on program for AutoCad which makes your nice drawing look
>like it was done on a paper napkin.  All the lines bleed a little,
>artistically of course.  No, I'm not making this up.  I saw it in an
>AutoCad magazine.

Nifty!
   
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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Thread-Topic: Auction of Denise Poiret's collection
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From: "Abel, Cynthia" <CynthiaAbel@creighton.edu>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Denise Poiret's collection of her former husband Paul Poiret's designs
for her was auctioned in Paris on May 10-11th.  Denise Poiret died in
c1982, yet had kept hundreds of items her ex had designed just for her.
The items were offered for auction by her granddaughter and it was hoped
that one or two museums might bid and win the bulk of the items, rather
than all of them being dispersed among many collectors.  As a "simple
summer dress" was expected to go for at least $3,000 + , it was expected
that not all the items would quietly disappear into private collections.
Some of the items were featured in the May issues of Vogue and Harper's
Bazaar.

Does anyone on the list know of the results of this auction? I'm hoping
that maybe the Musee du Costume or the Kyoto Costume Museum acquired
many items.

Cindy Abel

  

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Cin
Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 1:46 PM
To: h-cost
Subject: [h-cost] Re: A busk -- was: another SCORE!

From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue+dated+1132047504.53a923@thibault.org>
>> I think he was a little surprised when he got his hands on my ash.

>You really should warn us if you're going to write a sentence like
that!

It was just a test to see how carefully you'd read... <grin> We were
doing stupid tree jokes like that all evening.  Once Brian finished
sanding the busk we were all pining, as you said, to touch it's smooth
white ash.

From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
>There's an add-on program for AutoCad which makes your nice drawing 
>look like it was done on a paper napkin.  All the lines bleed a little,

>artistically of course.  No, I'm not making this up.  I saw it in an 
>AutoCad magazine.

Nifty!
   
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
CinBarnes@gmail.com

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu May 19 18:02:55 2005
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Auction of Denise Poiret's collection & Film
References: <BB3EEC584579204DB6E2CA0F6DB7566F0130D495@exbe01.blue.jays.creighton.edu>
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I'm hoping someone published an auction catalog with pictures.

BTW, I watched a great Napoleonic period DVD last night, "The Marquise 
of O."  German with English subtitles.  Very painterly.

Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Abel, Cynthia wrote:

>Denise Poiret's collection of her former husband Paul Poiret's designs
>for her was auctioned in Paris on May 10-11th.  Denise Poiret died in
>c1982, yet had kept hundreds of items her ex had designed just for her.
>The items were offered for auction by her granddaughter and it was hoped
>that one or two museums might bid and win the bulk of the items, rather
>than all of them being dispersed among many collectors.  As a "simple
>summer dress" was expected to go for at least $3,000 + , it was expected
>that not all the items would quietly disappear into private collections.
>Some of the items were featured in the May issues of Vogue and Harper's
>Bazaar.
>
>Does anyone on the list know of the results of this auction? I'm hoping
>that maybe the Musee du Costume or the Kyoto Costume Museum acquired
>many items.
>
>Cindy Abel
>
>  
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
>On Behalf Of Cin
>Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 1:46 PM
>To: h-cost
>Subject: [h-cost] Re: A busk -- was: another SCORE!
>
>From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue+dated+1132047504.53a923@thibault.org>
>  
>
>>>I think he was a little surprised when he got his hands on my ash.
>>>      
>>>
>
>  
>
>>You really should warn us if you're going to write a sentence like
>>    
>>
>that!
>
>It was just a test to see how carefully you'd read... <grin> We were
>doing stupid tree jokes like that all evening.  Once Brian finished
>sanding the busk we were all pining, as you said, to touch it's smooth
>white ash.
>
>From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
>  
>
>>There's an add-on program for AutoCad which makes your nice drawing 
>>look like it was done on a paper napkin.  All the lines bleed a little,
>>    
>>
>
>  
>
>>artistically of course.  No, I'm not making this up.  I saw it in an 
>>AutoCad magazine.
>>    
>>
>
>Nifty!
>   
>--cin
>Cynthia Barnes
>CinBarnes@gmail.com
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>  
>
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From: Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] IT'S HERE, IT'S HERE!!!
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I spent a couple of hours going through my new treasure instead of working on the bathroom.  It all looks great.  I read Robin's article on Tippets and it was TERRIFIC.  I try not to wear fitted clothing because of my big fat tummy, but that article has really got me interested in the period.  It looks like everything is so wonderfully documented that you can actually have faith in what is written.  I can hardly wait until I can steal another couple of hours to read more.  

Robin, GREAT WORK, THANKS.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com> wrote:

From: Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 09:57:52 -0700 (PDT)
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] IT'S HERE, IT'S HERE!!!


My copy of Medieval Clothing and Textiles just arrived.  I haven't even had a chance to look at it yet - it is just out of the box.

Happy Dance!!
Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender



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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] IT'S HERE, IT'S HERE!!!
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On Thu, 19 May 2005, Lalah wrote:

> I spent a couple of hours going through my new treasure instead of
> working on the bathroom.  It all looks great.  I read Robin's article
> on Tippets and it was TERRIFIC.  I try not to wear fitted clothing
> because of my big fat tummy, but that article has really got me
> interested in the period.  It looks like everything is so wonderfully
> documented that you can actually have faith in what is written.  I can
> hardly wait until I can steal another couple of hours to read more.
> 
> Robin, GREAT WORK, THANKS.

Thank *you*. I am so pleased to hear that something this academic can be
of interest to people doing real costuming.

Regarding the wonderful documentation: One trick to getting the most out
of an academic paper is to track back the footnotes. Even if the paper
isn't smack on your interest, if it's covering the right period or general
topic, the footnotes may lead you to useful sources you wouldn't have
found otherwise. For instance, that article on Anglo-Saxon embroidery is
actually a summary of all known surviving European embroideries pre-1100,
and the footnotes tell you where to go to get the full rundown on each of
the pieces mentioned. In Vol. 2, we have a paper analyzing clothing
references in a particular 9th-c. Irish story, but even if you're not
interested in that story, the 200 or so footnotes can serve as a pretty
comprehensive reading list of sources on clothing of the Hiberno-Viking
era.

A large part of my work involves making sure those footnotes are properly
presented, correct, and useful.

Oh, and regarding 14th c. fitted clothing: big tummies were fashionable.
It's true that women in period were probably not as large in general as
women today, but by good fortune the style looks great on women of all
sizes. A fitted dress distinguishes the ribcage dip under the bust and the
small of the back -- much more attractive and more feminine than a
shapeless tunic that tries to hide the large areas and thus conceals all
the curves.

--Robin

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Date: Fri, 20 May 2005 10:51:13 +1200
From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] IT'S HERE, IT'S HERE!!!
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Robin Netherton wrote:

>Oh, and regarding 14th c. fitted clothing: big tummies were fashionable.
>It's true that women in period were probably not as large in general as
>women today, but by good fortune the style looks great on women of all
>sizes. A fitted dress distinguishes the ribcage dip under the bust and the
>small of the back -- much more attractive and more feminine than a
>shapeless tunic that tries to hide the large areas and thus conceals all
>the curves.
>  
>

Ohhh... don't get me started... I have seen _so_ many large women who 
seem to be labouring under the misapprehension that baggy, unfitted 
clothing is somehow more modest or flattering.  Really, it isn't 
flattering at all, and in the case of more than one lady who has made an 
Italian Ren gown so unfitted that it hangs like a sack, it looks 
slovenly to boot. 

-- 
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
----------------------------- 

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Date: Thu, 19 May 2005 19:24:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kathy Page <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
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Subject: [h-cost] I am in fabric dye hell
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Status: RO

Greetings to those far more sane than I,

I am ready to bury some yardage in my backyard, I am
certain it will crawl out by itself- I'm convinced it
is possessed.

I am trying to dye 55/45 cotton/hemp twill black. I
started out with partial bleached state. I used
Procion MX from G&S Dyes not once, but Twice - and it
wouldn't turn black. Best I could get was weird
indigo-ish blue.

I have tried Rit - 3 boxes of the stuff for 3.5 yards
of fabric, and oh yes, it's black, but running all
over the place. I put salt in the dye, I have hit it
with dye stabiliser (G&S calls it Raycafix), with
their equivalent of Synthrapol, regular detergent,
vinegar, warm water, hot water, cold water... and it's
still bleeding. AND... that weird blue is coming
back... its FADING!!! ARGH!

Does anyone have any ideas? anything? Please? I'm
about ready to start casting spells and poking it with
voodoo pins... 

Any ideas no matter how unconventional are welcome and
deeply appreciated... 

Kathy

"The evil that men do lives after them. The good is oft interred in their bones." Shakespeare, "Julius Caesar"

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] I am in fabric dye hell
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Kathy Page wrote:

>Greetings to those far more sane than I,
>
>I am ready to bury some yardage in my backyard, I am
>certain it will crawl out by itself- I'm convinced it
>is possessed.
>
>I am trying to dye 55/45 cotton/hemp twill black. I
>started out with partial bleached state. I used
>Procion MX from G&S Dyes not once, but Twice - and it
>wouldn't turn black. Best I could get was weird
>indigo-ish blue.
>
>I have tried Rit - 3 boxes of the stuff for 3.5 yards
>of fabric, and oh yes, it's black, but running all
>over the place. I put salt in the dye, I have hit it
>with dye stabiliser (G&S calls it Raycafix), with
>their equivalent of Synthrapol, regular detergent,
>vinegar, warm water, hot water, cold water... and it's
>still bleeding. AND... that weird blue is coming
>back... its FADING!!! ARGH!
>
>Does anyone have any ideas? anything? Please? I'm
>about ready to start casting spells and poking it with
>voodoo pins... 
>
>Any ideas no matter how unconventional are welcome and
>deeply appreciated... 
>
>Kathy
>
>"The evil that men do lives after them. The good is oft interred in their bones." Shakespeare, "Julius Caesar"
>
>______________________________________________________________________ 
>Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>  
>
Sorry to laugh at your pain but have you tried permanent marker?  On a 
more serious note you might try the dye offers on the Thai silks web 
site I believe it is thaisilks.com.  Other than that you might try exorcism.

Armand

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To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] I am in fabric dye hell
Date: Thu, 19 May 2005 20:40:58 -0400
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Procion dye should have handled hemp. If Procion didn't work, it's normal 
that Rit is not doing a good job. Indigo-ish blue means that the black dye 
is blue-based. All black dyes are either blue- or red-based. In your case, 
it's just not taking very well, so it comes out blue.

Frankly, I never try to dye anything black, because it's nearly impossible 
to get a decent black on anything, even cotton. And linen/hemp is harder to 
dye than cotton.

I'd call (or write) Dharma and ask their advice. Maybe they have something 
that works better than Procion on hemp?

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kathy Page" <caitlin_oduibhir@yahoo.ca>
To: "Historical Costume List" <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 7:24 PM
Subject: [h-cost] I am in fabric dye hell


> Greetings to those far more sane than I,
>
> I am ready to bury some yardage in my backyard, I am
> certain it will crawl out by itself- I'm convinced it
> is possessed.
>
> I am trying to dye 55/45 cotton/hemp twill black. I
> started out with partial bleached state. I used
> Procion MX from G&S Dyes not once, but Twice - and it
> wouldn't turn black. Best I could get was weird
> indigo-ish blue.
>
> I have tried Rit - 3 boxes of the stuff for 3.5 yards
> of fabric, and oh yes, it's black, but running all
> over the place. I put salt in the dye, I have hit it
> with dye stabiliser (G&S calls it Raycafix), with
> their equivalent of Synthrapol, regular detergent,
> vinegar, warm water, hot water, cold water... and it's
> still bleeding. AND... that weird blue is coming
> back... its FADING!!! ARGH!
>
> Does anyone have any ideas? anything? Please? I'm
> about ready to start casting spells and poking it with
> voodoo pins...
>
> Any ideas no matter how unconventional are welcome and
> deeply appreciated...
>
> Kathy
>
> "The evil that men do lives after them. The good is oft interred in their 
> bones." Shakespeare, "Julius Caesar"
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
> Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
> _______________________________________________
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> 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] lurker call
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On Thursday 19 May 2005 4:57 am, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

> We are celebrating spring party at Nyckelviken again and i shall wear my
> "replica" cut wise of the weddingsuit of Gustav III. from 1766.
> I made it excatly in cut so i shall have to have a straight posture with
> narrow shoulders and breast pushed forward.
> I am very pleased with the result, with silver bobbin lace edged all over.
> The colour of the duchesse silk is sky blue.
> Unfortunately i did not have the time to make bobbin lace for the waistcoat
> so it is plain.
> The rich duchesse satin is very nice to sew with. I interlined the whole
> coat with heavy linnen and lined it with silk.
> This time i used really replicas of button molds made in wood.
> I will promise you all pictures from the event wich is on saturday
> afternoon. I shall make pictures for you next week.

It sounds lovely, Bjarne.  Can't wait to see the pictures!


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] I am in fabric dye hell
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In a message dated 5/19/2005 8:41:37 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
audreybmorin2@hotmail.com writes:

And  linen/hemp is harder to 
dye than cotton.




That is true--while linen and hemp are both cellulose, like cotton, their  
more highly crystalline structures makes it harder for the dye to  penetrate.  
Commercially, they can be dyed under pressure.  
 
Maybe you need to settle for navy blue.
 
Ann Wass
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu May 19 22:40:08 2005
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From: "Martha Kelly" <marthakelly@nyc.rr.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Gloves/no gloves
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As of the last time I studied clothing items in these institutions:

Costume Institute, Met Museum - white cotton gloves
FIT - white cotton gloves
MCNY - wash hands carefully, no gloves
Half of the private collectors from whom I've borrowed items - no gloves
The other half - gloves
My own elder garments - clean hands, no gloves

Martha




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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] I am in fabric dye hell
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> I have tried Rit - 3 boxes of the stuff for 3.5 yards
> of fabric, and oh yes, it's black, but running all
> over the place. I put salt in the dye, I have hit it
> with dye stabiliser (G&S calls it Raycafix), with
> their equivalent of Synthrapol, regular detergent,
> vinegar, warm water, hot water, cold water... and it's
> still bleeding. AND... that weird blue is coming
> back... its FADING!!! ARGH!

I'd keep washing it, I understand RIT is like Dylon in that they are for
both animal and plant fibres, meaning there is a lot of dye that has to be
washed out. I mean if you are dyeing plant fibres (as you are) all the
animal fibre dye is still washing out.

I have had success with painting dye in a much more concentration solution.
That was on a silk that seemed ot love dye though.

And I've had great experience with dying wool on the stove pot (Dylon
multipurpose.)

People have mentioned how hemp has a structure akin to linen, which I've not
had any success in getting a deep colour on. Though I admittedly I haven't
actually tried painting dye on it yet, just heavily concentrated shallow
baths.

michaela
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Date: Thu, 19 May 2005 21:24:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: Melody Watts <celticredhead2002@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost]  Renfaire - too sad,
	lack of costume control reflects attitudes
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Status: RO

 Correct Elizabeth, re: the Faire being a joke.....
The queen ,She was indeed commenting on the crowd, not
costuming wise, but for it's lack of "deportment"
while she was "making progress"... actually _NOT_
making progress, as the foul louts would NOT make way
for the Queen. She was escorted by a Nobleman,and she
was afoot (though _why_ I don't know,as she was in a
merchants row)
 I guess the populace just assumed she was another
"nut" dressed up, with her boyfriend yelling "make way
for the Queen " to impress his honey.
 Our Lady Queen is always gracious,but that day just
frustrated on the lack of manners.
 (And as a costume-side bar, the people who DID make
way,were the people who cared enough to research and
create Elizabethan garb, "playtrons" if you must label
them, not guild members, or "Paid actors" just
ordinary people.
 "Zena, Hagar the horrible, lil Miss Pink Pixie",
didn't blink an eye or budge a butt.

-- Elizabeth Walpole <ewalpole@iimetro.com.au> wrote:
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <lists@margospatterns.com>
> To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 12:42 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Renfaire ? Swat that fairy,
> ..I'll get the swatter...
> 
> 
> > > Southern Ren Faire has become a joke....so
> sad...
> > > even the Queen was over heard to say "this is
> > > rediculous" as she made her way thru the crowd.
> >
> > No, what's ridiculous is a paid entertainer
> audibly dissing her audience,
> no
> > matter how poorly she considers them to be
> dressed.  If I were management,
> > I'd fire her for that.
> >
> <snip> Margo
> >
> 
> Actually if the comment was just 'this is
> ridiculous' there's no actual
> indication that she was commenting on the patrons
> clothing. Without being
> there and seeing the context I'd be just as likely
> to assume that somebody
> had forgotten a vital prop or done something else
> that made it unnecessarily
> difficult for her to do her job (i.e perform as the
> Queen). Perhaps Melody
> knows something we don't (she was there after all)
> but I wouldn't jump to
> the conclusion that such a comment had anything to
> do with what the patrons
> were wearing.
> Elizabeth
> --------------------------------------------
> Elizabeth Walpole
> Canberra Australia
> ewalpole[at]iimetro.com.au
> http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


		
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri May 20 01:28:02 2005
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Speaking of sewing machines...
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A friend of mine (he's a re-enactor, but does not sew) is helping his
mother move into an assisted living apartment, which means he is dealing
with selling her home and possessions. He's asked me for suggestions on
how to sell her Singer 306 sewing machine. He says it "seems to be in very
good condition, with its original manual and a bunch of original
accessories."

Given the recent conversation here, I thought I'd toss that question --
or, if you are in the market, that offer -- out to the group.

He's looked on eBay and found similar machines going for about $200, but
he isn't eager to deal with packing and shipping. He is in Chicago, and
would like to sell locally.

So, if you're in or near Chicago and you (1) want to make an offer, or (2)
can suggest a costume-related e-mail list or forum specific to the Chicago
area where he might post a notice, please e-mail me. Also, if you have
experience with this model or any suggestions on pricing, we'd also like
to hear from you. Thanks.

--Robin



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Subject: [h-cost] Custom gambeson maker?
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Anyone here know someone who can make a good custom gambeson based on a
period source?

My friend (he of the sewing machine) does swordfighting research and
re-enactment (Chicago Swordplay Guild) and wants something authentic to
fight in. He's talked to a number of the better-known online vendors and
hasn't yet found the right match. He wants someone competent and will pay
reasonably for quality, but can't spend a fortune.

He's identified a picture of what he's looking for -- a fresco at the
castle of Sabbionara at Avio in northern Italy. I think we're talking
about 15th or 16th century.

--Robin


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gloves/no gloves
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In a message dated 5/19/2005 10:39:45 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
marthakelly@nyc.rr.com writes:

Costume  Institute, Met Museum - white cotton gloves
FIT - white cotton  gloves
MCNY - wash hands carefully, no gloves
Half of the private  collectors from whom I've borrowed items - no gloves
The other half -  gloves
My own elder garments - clean hands, no  gloves



And I suppose it goes without saying, but I will say it anyway--if no  
gloves, remove watches and rings.
 
Ann Wass
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 321
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> Message: 3
> Date: Sun, 15 May 2005 12:22:11 +0000
> From: "Laura Waack" <pottratzwaack@hotmail.com>
> Subject: [h-cost] Colonial House / Frontier House
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Message-ID: <BAY101-F1155F02875B334DD4E6F3AB2140@phx.gbl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
>
> there wouldn't be as much drama.'  Our biggest complaint with the shows is
> how NO ONE stayed in period dress.  If they were uncomfortable, they just
> took it off.  How many of our pioneer grandmas really did that?
>
> But just trying it and finding out stuff would be SO INTERESTING.

That irritates me too - it was a similar story here with 'The Colony'
set in early 19th century New South Wales. One of the women
actually cut up her dress and made shorts out of it.

However I do have an example - not quite working class - but in
'The Cut of Women's Clothes' (I think) there's a quote from an
woman who was young in late Edwardian times and wore low
necked dresses because she couldn't bear the boned high collars.
Claire

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From: "E House" <formfunc@formfunction.org>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] I am in fabric dye hell
Date: Fri, 20 May 2005 07:39:50 -0500
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Try adding a dark brown to the mix next time you tackle it--that should at 
least help you get into dark grey territory, rather than blue.

-E House (who has incidentally sworn off trying to dye silk black.) 

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Subject: [h-cost] A comment on our passion
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Thought you might like to read this from Robin Givhan, the fashion editor  of 
the Washington Post.  She often gets on my nerves for various things,  and I 
thought this was more of the same.  But, read on--at least she also  pokes fun 
at fashionistas at the end.
 
_http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2005/05/19/AR20050519018
77.html?sub=AR_ 
(http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2005/05/19/AR2005051901877.html?sub=AR) 
 
Ann Wass
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Fri May 20 10:23:21 2005
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Subject: [h-cost] Fabric & more (Off Topic - Please forgive?)
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Hi there .. sorry I had fallen off the earth and have not really
participated much in the list but a lot of stuff has been
happening that made it really difficult to be social .. forgive me?

That being said, I am coming out of lurking to say hello and to ask if
anyone would be interested in purchasing fancy costuming and upholstery
fabric, costuming, or various other SCA bits and pieces like leather, fur,
feast gear, and other trinkets.  

I just found out I have to get reconstructive surgery in about 1.5 months
(which is also about the rough timeline for me to find a new place and
move) so I am trying to cull down what stuff (and how MUCH!!) I will need
to move at the same time as trying to finance some of this without
touching a meager savings ... Will be photographing and measuring the
fabric and other bits in the next week or so, so if there is any interest,
please let me know.  Since I am local (West Bloomfield, MI) to some of
you, anyone wanting to take a look at all this in person can drop me a
note and we can try to arrange a time.  

Alternately I can try to arrange a day where it will be
"open house" (ok, open garage .. since my family would have a fit if I did
this in the house they are trying to clean up and sell)and let you know
where and when.  Ideally I would like to reduce the "stock" by at least
half before doing that though... any thoughts?  This may be a good time to
stock up for projects pre-pennsic / Faire / The fall holidays !!

I am set up with paypal so shipping would not be an issue either - and
there are about 6 huge bins of fabric (mostly tapestry, upholstery,
brocade, cottons, some velvets, and random odds and ends and even have a
ton of corset boning!!) and some trim that will be up for grabs .. PLUS
about 4 bins of leather, cut out fabrics and patterns for partially
started/finished projects, and a huge pile of rennie type garb in size
medium/large/XL women's ..)

At some point what doesn't sell online will be put up at a garage sale but
would prefer to not simply "give" it away for pennies since I'm not really
in a position to do so ..   Sorry if that makes me sound "greedy" but I am
looking at about 2k for the surgery alone (NOT covered by insurance) plus
losing time off work, so anything I can "earn" ahead of time to fill that
gap would be a blessing.

Thanks for listening and allowing this.  Its not meant as solicitation but
rather a chance for people to get first dibs on a pretty nice stash that
would be great for costuming while helping out a fellow fabric monger out!

Please feel free to cross post.  
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Shall we assume online on Ebay?    (I may have missed an earlier 
post...)  Thanks and the best of Luck!

Sg


>  
>
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Subject: [h-cost] re: trousers
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>So, to me, saying that some of the Haithabu/Hedeby scraps are similar to 
>the Thorbjerg trousers, therefore the Thorsbjerg trousers must be the 
>pattern for all Scandinavian trousers for a thousand year period just seems 
>a bit iffy.

Sorry, where did I say that the Thorsberg pattern "must be the only one for 
all Scandinavian trousers"? Did I really say that like this? If I really 
said that somewhere, I am sorry, cause that's definitely not what I meant. 
And I seem to remember that I mentioned there were other fragments (in the 
same excavation) where a pattern couldn't be established, therefore making 
it very likely that it wasn't the only one....

All I wanted to say was that the remains that there are, show (in my 
opinion) without much doubt that one pair of trousers found in Viking age 
context followed the same pattern as known from the Thorsberg find. The only 
issue I had was with "I don't think that a scrap of this size and form 
allows the conclusion XYZ".... the pieces in context are hard to deny.

Cheers,

Caithlinn


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Auction of Denise Poiret's collection & Film
Date: Fri, 20 May 2005 12:22:49 -0500
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I'm hoping someone published an auction catalog with pictures.

 
Fran
Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming http://www.lavoltapress.com

 Fran(and anyone else interested in Poiret): According to an online
article by Suzy Menkes, there is an exibition catalogue entitled "La
Creation en Liberte" The auction house was Piasa Paris-Druot Richelieu.
I couldn't find a web site and Amazon.fr turned up rien about the
catalogue. Hopefully, a museum like the Met, LACMA, or Kyoto Costume
scored most of the 600+ items, or at least enough to do a book and/or
exibition in the future.

Poiret, even though he died in debt and lived on a small pension, should
be given back the credit for really being the first designer to branch
out into Poiret as a life-style, adding shoes, accessories, perfume, and
the whole lifestyle "Poiret" from dinnerware to furniture. He also hired
and trained orphan girls to work in his atelier and was a mover and
shaker behind the movement for better salaries, benefits and working
conditions for the many poorly-paid jobs in the fashion industry done by
women and girls.

Unfortunately World War I and the economic aftermath did almost as much
as Poiret's love of bright colors, extravagant patterning and rich
detail in a post-war world that was embrasing a simplier look(that
actually evolved from Poiret's pre 1911 designs)and cheap
mass-marketing. Poiret loved drama, but his clientele wanted a less is
more look and lifestyle.

Cindy Abel

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I need about 5 yards of cotton organza, and can't seem to find it locally or online.  Any leads will be appriciated.  I'm in the US, and prefer not to have it shipped in from overseas.

thanks,
Katie

-- 
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: M Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need source for cotton organza
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Try "The Cotton Boll"  in Chapel Hill, NC   or  "Mulberry Silks"  also in 
Chapel Hill, NC.  Great stores - if they are still around.
Then there's a host of places in NY, on 67th(?) street - drat or is that 
46th(?)... either way - fashion district.  I've never bothered to learn 
names, I just mosey from store to store when I manage to get there.

Bridgette



>I need about 5 yards of cotton organza, and can't seem to find it locally 
>or online.  Any leads will be appriciated.  I'm in the US, and prefer not 
>to have it shipped in from overseas.
>
>thanks,
>Katie

webmaster@vet.cornell.edu


Mari Stewart
College of Veterinary Medicine
Cornell University  

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If cotton organdy will do, this place has some lovely fabrics:
http://www.baltazor.com/organdy.html

I have had two satisfactory transactions with them.

Heidi E.
============================================================
From: M Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu>
Date: 2005/05/20 Fri PM 02:11:37 EDT
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need source for cotton organza


Try "The Cotton Boll"  in Chapel Hill, NC   or  "Mulberry Silks"  also in 
Chapel Hill, NC.  Great stores - if they are still around.
Then there's a host of places in NY, on 67th(?) street - drat or is that 
46th(?)... either way - fashion district.  I've never bothered to learn 
names, I just mosey from store to store when I manage to get there.

Bridgette



>I need about 5 yards of cotton organza, and can't seem to find it locally 
>or online.  Any leads will be appriciated.  I'm in the US, and prefer not 
>to have it shipped in from overseas.
>
>thanks,
>Katie

webmaster@vet.cornell.edu


Mari Stewart
College of Veterinary Medicine
Cornell University  

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============================================================


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On Fri, 20 May 2005 mudsleidi@cox.net wrote:

> If cotton organdy will do, this place has some lovely fabrics:
> http://www.baltazor.com/organdy.html

Organdy and organza are very different! I made that mistake once.

Vogue Fabrics in Chicago should carry both as regular stock, though I
don't know whether it would be cotton; usually organza is silk. Try
www.myvoguefabrics.com, and if they don't have it, call them and ask,
because not everything is on the website. You can also try G street in
Rockville, Maryland.

--Robin

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From: Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need source for cotton organza
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Farthingale in Canada has cotton organdy: 
http://www.farthingales.on.ca/home.htm

I have purchased cotton organdy or organza at Britex in the past -
can-t remember which. Nice and stiff, sheer and elegant.
http://www.britexfabrics.com/

Poppy Fabrics in Oakland, CA has had it in the past also, but they've
got new buyers and I never know what will be there.
http:// www.poppyfabric.com

surprisingly, Dharma doesn't carry it by name, but they do have lots
of sheer or semi-sheer cottons.

I'm sure if you did a web search for french sewing, one of those
stores would certainly carry it.

Best of luck,
LynnD

On 5/20/05, M Stewart <ms154@cornell.edu> wrote:
> 
> Try "The Cotton Boll"  in Chapel Hill, NC   or  "Mulberry Silks"  also in
> Chapel Hill, NC.  Great stores - if they are still around.
> Then there's a host of places in NY, on 67th(?) street - drat or is that
> 46th(?)... either way - fashion district.  I've never bothered to learn
> names, I just mosey from store to store when I manage to get there.
> 
> Bridgette
> 
> 
> 
> >I need about 5 yards of cotton organza, and can't seem to find it locally
> >or online.  Any leads will be appriciated.  I'm in the US, and prefer not
> >to have it shipped in from overseas.
> >
> >thanks,
> >Katie
> 
> webmaster@vet.cornell.edu
> 
> 
> Mari Stewart
> College of Veterinary Medicine
> Cornell University
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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From: "Marc Carlson" <marccarlson20@hotmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: trousers
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>From: "C M" <caithlinn@hotmail.com>
> >So, to me, saying that some of the Haithabu/Hedeby scraps are similar to
> >the Thorbjerg trousers, therefore the Thorsbjerg trousers must be the
> >pattern for all Scandinavian trousers for a thousand year period just 
>seems
> >a bit iffy.
>Sorry, where did I say that the Thorsberg pattern "must be the only one for
>all Scandinavian trousers"? Did I really say that like this? If I really
>said that somewhere, I am sorry, cause that's definitely not what I meant.
>And I seem to remember that I mentioned there were other fragments (in the
>same excavation) where a pattern couldn't be established, therefore making
>it very likely that it wasn't the only one....

If there are other fragments and a pattern can't be established, how do you 
know they are trouser fragments?

You didn't say those exact words -- however, that is the implication of 
USING the Thjorsberg pattern centuries after it was KNOWN to have been used, 
just because it's similar to some scraps found elsewhere.  I apologize if 
this seems a bit strident, or for that matter, even focused at you 
individually -- whenever "Viking" trousers come up it seems that the 
Thjorsberg garments get drug out and shown as the example of what is known, 
when in fact it -isn't- known.  It's a supposition, an opinion.   And I've 
gotten a little frustrated by this over the past few years (honestly, the 
last straw was their use in a design from a museum in Sweden - as though 
there was actually solid evidence to support it).  So if I seem to be 
attacking I'm not meaning to, and I apologize for coming across like I am.

>All I wanted to say was that the remains that there are, show (in my
>opinion) without much doubt that one pair of trousers found in Viking age
>context followed the same pattern as known from the Thorsberg find. The 
>only
>issue I had was with "I don't think that a scrap of this size and form
>allows the conclusion XYZ".... the pieces in context are hard to deny.

I've got the book on order again, since I can't find my files on them, and 
i'll take another look.  I've done a lot more looking at trouser designs 
since the last time I saw it and I may see something new.

"Pieces in context"?  I didn't realize they were found on a body  :)

Marc


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From: "Jennifer / Guenievre" <generys@blazemail.com>
To: "'Historical Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Need source for cotton organza
Date: Fri, 20 May 2005 14:28:36 -0400
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Yes, both stores are still there, and still wonderful places.

Cotton Boll is online here - http://www.thecottonboll.com/ and Mulberry
Silks phone number is (919) 942-7455.

I haven't been over to either of them recently, though, so I can't say
whether they have cotton organza right now...

Gueničvre 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of M Stewart
> Sent: Friday, May 20, 2005 2:12 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need source for cotton organza
> 
> 
> Try "The Cotton Boll"  in Chapel Hill, NC   or  "Mulberry Silks"  also in
> Chapel Hill, NC.  Great stores - if they are still around.
> Then there's a host of places in NY, on 67th(?) street - drat or is that
> 46th(?)... either way - fashion district.  I've never bothered to learn
> names, I just mosey from store to store when I manage to get there.
> 
> Bridgette
> 
> 
> 
> >I need about 5 yards of cotton organza, and can't seem to find it locally
> >or online.  Any leads will be appriciated.  I'm in the US, and prefer not
> >to have it shipped in from overseas.
> >
> >thanks,
> >Katie
> 
> webmaster@vet.cornell.edu
> 
> 
> Mari Stewart
> College of Veterinary Medicine
> Cornell University
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need source for cotton organza
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Martha Pullen's web site says she has it at:
http://store.marthapullen.com/?page=shop/flypage&product_id=2678&category_id=5dfef33a32285824bae67e6af79000a8

Pam Dotson
Everett, WA
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Katie Lewis" <katie_lewis@lycos.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, May 20, 2005 11:02 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Need source for cotton organza


>
> I need about 5 yards of cotton organza, and can't seem to find it locally 
> or online.  Any leads will be appriciated.  I'm in the US, and prefer not 
> to have it shipped in from overseas.
>
> thanks,
> Katie
>
> -- 
> _______________________________________________
> NEW! Lycos Dating Search. The only place to search multiple dating sites 
> at once.
> http://datingsearch.lycos.com
>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric & more (Off Topic - Please forgive?)
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I'm interested, but I shouldn't buy Any More Fabric.  That token protest having been made, I would be interested in corset boning, and any linens or wools you might have.  Please feel free to contact me off list for further discussion.
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Lil Sorepaws<mailto:sorepaws@yahoo.com> 
  To: h-costume@indra.com<mailto:h-costume@indra.com> 
  Sent: Friday, May 20, 2005 10:22 AM
  Subject: [h-cost] Fabric & more (Off Topic - Please forgive?)


  Hi there .. sorry I had fallen off the earth and have not really
  participated much in the list but a lot of stuff has been
  happening that made it really difficult to be social .. forgive me?

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Serger hunt...
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Hi
For those that are interested, JoAnn's el cheapo White serger seems 
like a decent little beast. It finishes edges and does a rolled hem. 
Also has a diffential feed for gathers. At $199, it is just a bit 
more than the estimate to just clean and lube and check the old beast 
out (Note: I'll be looking for another service center for it...) So 
if you just need a serger for now and then, this seems a decent 
deal...

We'll see how happy I am after doing curtains and some cloth bags...

Ta
Carol
-- 
Creative Clutter is Better Than Idle Neatness!
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From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A comment on our passion
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Boy, she sure seems to think a lot of herself, and her oh-so-arch wit! <g>
--sue, glad to live in a state where the governor's not afraid to wear 
jeans like most of his constituents (MT), and who can't decide if she 
wants to work on a Harry Potter outfit, or a 10th c. Norse outfit...this 
weekend ;o)

AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:
> Thought you might like to read this from Robin Givhan, the fashion editor  of 
> the Washington Post.  She often gets on my nerves for various things,  and I 
> thought this was more of the same.  But, read on--at least she also  pokes fun 
> at fashionistas at the end.
>  
> _http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2005/05/19/AR20050519018
> 77.html?sub=AR_ 
> (http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2005/05/19/AR2005051901877.html?sub=AR) 

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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: trousers
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On Friday 20 May 2005 2:28 pm, Marc Carlson wrote:
[snip]
> You didn't say those exact words -- however, that is the implication of
> USING the Thjorsberg pattern centuries after it was KNOWN to have been
> used, just because it's similar to some scraps found elsewhere.  I
> apologize if this seems a bit strident, or for that matter, even focused at
> you individually -- whenever "Viking" trousers come up it seems that the
> Thjorsberg garments get drug out and shown as the example of what is known,
> when in fact it -isn't- known.  It's a supposition, an opinion.   

What's supposition, of course, is just how commonly trousers cut similarly to 
the Thjorsberg trousers were, either during the period to which they've been 
(approximately dated) or any other period.  We know the Thjorsberg trousers 
themselves exist because we have them.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Speaking of sewing machines...
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What about the Vintage singer list on Yahoo?   let's see, here is the URL 
 http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vintagesingers/  They don't allow sales on
the list but they have a for sale data base in the data base section.  
Also ISMACS which allows sellers to post to their list on weekends would
be a good venue as well.  their URL is ismacs.net, I think.   All these
are people who love, respect, collect and often Use vintage singers and
other machines.  you have to join each list to post to the group, but it
is a good way to let people know you have something of interest.    Kitty

>
> A friend of mine (he's a re-enactor, but does not sew) is helping his
> mother move into an assisted living apartment, which means he is dealing
> with selling her home and possessions. He's asked me for suggestions on
> how to sell her Singer 306 sewing machine. He says it "seems to be in
> very good condition, with its original manual and a bunch of original
> accessories."
>
> Given the recent conversation here, I thought I'd toss that question --
> or, if you are in the market, that offer -- out to the group.
>
> He's looked on eBay and found similar machines going for about $200, but
> he isn't eager to deal with packing and shipping. He is in Chicago, and
> would like to sell locally.
>
> So, if you're in or near Chicago and you (1) want to make an offer, or
> (2) can suggest a costume-related e-mail list or forum specific to the
> Chicago area where he might post a notice, please e-mail me. Also, if
> you have experience with this model or any suggestions on pricing, we'd
> also like to hear from you. Thanks.
>
> --Robin
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Sat, 21 May 2005 01:19:38 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mn.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] white gloves
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It completely depends on the museum.  Some current scholarship suggests 
that it is actually better to use freshly washed *bare* hands than old 
white cotton gloves, less contamination.  However, the V&A textiles 
department used the disposable, non-powdered, purple surgical gloves when I 
was last there two years ago.  The Museum of London, still used the white 
gloves, and the Minneapolis Institute of Arts uses washed bare hands.

Cheers,
Danielle

At 10:02 AM 5/19/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>Question for those of you who do the museum scene.
>What is the current attitude/scholarship regarding the use/necessity of 
>wearing museum gloves when handling artifacts in your venues?
>
>Kathleen

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Custom gambeson maker? 
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I make custom gambies and assorted other padding to whatever design you like, 
but as I'm in the UK the shipping may be prohibitive (although I do have some 
customers in California who came to me cos they said they just couldn't find 
them in the states).  


That said, you could direct him to the Arador Armoury site, or to the Armour 
Archive (both are discussion forums, and although I don't have the urls to 
hand they come up if you google/yahoo them).  Asking on them might be worth a 
shot.

Debbie

(But feel free to pass on my e-mail if he wants info or if he can't find the 
sites.)
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I work seasonally at Tuacahn Center for the Preforming Arts (in St. George, UT; Cedar City is just up the road from us and hosts the Utah Shakespere Festival) as a stitcher. But some days, life just says "Costume Day" to me and I go with it. I would never dress inappropriately for a event. I try for as close to accurate as possible to the event theme. 

		
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From: "Marc Carlson" <marccarlson20@hotmail.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] RE: trousers
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>From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
>>you individually -- whenever "Viking" trousers come up it seems that the
>>Thjorsberg garments get drug out and shown as the example of what is 
>>known,
>>when in fact it -isn't- known.  It's a supposition, an opinion.
>What's supposition, of course, is just how commonly trousers cut similarly 
>to
>the Thjorsberg trousers were, either during the period to which they've 
>been
>(approximately dated) or any other period.  We know the Thjorsberg trousers
>themselves exist because we have them.

Certainly, and if someone were doing a reproduction of the Thorsbjerg 
outfit, I wouldn't hesitate to suggest that they follow that design.   
However, what is being suggested is that they use the Thorsbjerg to 
reproduce something for which we have no actual evidence.  It may be 
correct, or it may be as wrong as suggesting that someone, say, use a Ford 
Model A as a design pattern for a 2003 Malibu.  Yes there will be some 
things done correctly, like the presence of 4 wheels, but I'm thinking some 
of the details -may- be wrong.  Now, granted, if that's all you have, you 
work with what you have, but you need to be sure to make it clear that this 
is what it -might- be like based on what you have, but it's probably not.  
The use of phrases like "identical to" and "virtually identical to" could 
conceivably give a false sense of security about the garments supposed 
accuracy to someone who hasnt done as much research as others.

Thats all Im saying.

Marc


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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: trousers
Date: Sat, 21 May 2005 17:23:30 -0400
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On Saturday 21 May 2005 2:23 pm, Marc Carlson wrote:
> >From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
[snip]
> >What's supposition, of course, is just how commonly trousers cut similarly
> >to
> >the Thjorsberg trousers were, either during the period to which they've
> >been
> >(approximately dated) or any other period.  We know the Thjorsberg
> > trousers themselves exist because we have them.
>
> Certainly, and if someone were doing a reproduction of the Thorsbjerg
> outfit, I wouldn't hesitate to suggest that they follow that design.
> However, what is being suggested is that they use the Thorsbjerg to
> reproduce something for which we have no actual evidence. 

Yes, exactly.  What you actually said, though, sounded a bit different from 
that.  Please excuse my pedantry.  :-)

> It may be
> correct, or it may be as wrong as suggesting that someone, say, use a Ford
> Model A as a design pattern for a 2003 Malibu. Yes there will be some 
> things done correctly, like the presence of 4 wheels, but I'm thinking some
> of the details -may- be wrong.  Now, granted, if that's all you have, you
> work with what you have, but you need to be sure to make it clear that this
> is what it -might- be like based on what you have, but it's probably not.
[snip]

Quite.  Compleat Anachronist 103 (which discusses possible designs for 
trousers worn by Gaels) makes it pretty clear that you can have many 
different designs for trousers that all have two legs, but are both visually 
and in construction quite different from one another.



-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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Subject: [h-cost] re: trousers
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Hi,

>If there are other fragments and a pattern can't be established, how do you 
>know they are trouser fragments?

Well, mainly because they have belt loops and so far I am not aware of any 
other pieces of clothing in a Viking context (or better up until a Viking 
context) with belt loops.... Belt loops because they are attached to 
waistband-like fragements, those other bits and pieces have been interpreted 
(and yes, that's just an opinion!) on the grounds of their attachment, which 
is the same as on the Thorsberg or/and Damendorf trouser finds. But because 
it's only the waistband, not much else info about the rest of the potential 
trousers is available.

>whenever "Viking" trousers come up it seems that the Thjorsberg garments 
>get drug out and shown as the example of what is known, when in fact it 
>-isn't- known.  It's a supposition, an opinion.   And I've gotten a little 
>frustrated by this over the past few years (honestly, the last straw was 
>their use in a design from a museum in Sweden - as though there was 
>actually solid evidence to support it).  So if I seem to be attacking I'm 
>not meaning to, and I apologize for coming across like I am.

I can understand that completely, cause trousers are my sore point as well, 
but I guess in completely the other direction. I am simply fed up with the 
large number of "interpreted" trousers in Living History and Reenactment 
circles I know, which have absolutely no proof whatsoever archaeologically 
and are still being advertised as "real Viking trousers". I agree that I 
wouldn't use a reproduction of Thorsberg style trousers in a Swedish 
display, since it is possible that this style of trouser is a regional 
affair only, but when it comes to remains of trousers, there's simply not 
much out there. I guess you either believe that those remains are from 
trousers (which I do) and then they are vaild evidence that this style was 
used in Haithabu during the 10th century or you don't and then there is not 
much else left to reconstruct trousers with a certain degree of accuracy. 
The Skjoldehamn trousers might be a local pattern as well, and though it is 
conceiveable that (since it's a simple pattern) it might have been used 
elsewhere, archaeological evidence there is none (as far as I know...!?).

However, since this will probably always be subject for debate, I apologize 
if I created the impression that the Thorsberg pattern is the only valid one 
for the entire Viking age. It's (as far as I am concerned) one that we know 
of (since it was found almost complete centuries before) and of which 
remains exist that date from the Viking Age context in Haithabu. This 
doesn't tell us anything about how frequent this pattern was used or if it 
was used anywhere else, but that is was used at least once and right there, 
we can be pretty sure.

>"Pieces in context"?  I didn't realize they were found on a body  :)

Hm, sorry if I am being thick here (sometimes the English language has very 
deep secrets that it doesn't reveal to me until someone explains them), but 
I thought "context" means all the surrounding circumstances, evidence etc, 
not just implying that it was found on a body? If that's not the case, sorry 
once more, language barrier here.

What I meant was the "context" of the fragments themselves, (not in a 
placement sense), since they were not found as strictly single pieces, 
separate from each other without any connection (apart from two) and simply 
put together cause it looked good and seemed to fit, but they were connected 
by seams in the strategic places, revealing their interaction with each 
other in the pattern and thereby allowing the conclusion that they were 
probably part of trousers. That, plus the experience of the archaeologists 
(having dealt with that type of scraps before and actually specalising in 
it) allowed the remaining pieces to be put into context with the first lot 
(again?) and determined even more of the pattern. But that said, I guess 
this is not a case of convincing anyone, for me it's pretty clear, for 
others it doesn't seem to be, so that's everbody's own decision.

Cheers,

Caithlinn

P.S. I don't want to be presumptious, but if you'd like help with 
translating text from the book, I'm happy to help.


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Hi, I'm looking for an online source for the plush stuff with a decent 
pile, not the cheap stuff I can get here, but yet again, I don't want 
it too expensive either. And does anyone know how to keep it from 
catching all the bits of dirt and fluff it passes?
Also, silk velvet - is it mostly polyester?
Thanks, Aylwen Garden

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Rayon.  So-called, commercially-available "silk velvet" is generally 
mostly rayon.  As far as I understand it, the "silk" part is the ground 
fabric, and the pile is rayon.  I've read a couple of articles that at 
least suggested that this is done to allow artisans, textile workers, 
what-have-you, to further embellish the fabric with various techniques 
that "burn away" the pile, exposing the background.  (The silk and 
rayon, being two different types of fiber, react to the processes 
differently).  The rayon/silk velvets always look and feel to me like 
rayon, and not silk (which I've also seen, but not been lucky enough to 
own, darn it!).
The examples I've personally seen of *historical* silk velvets reminded 
me of a modern cotton velveteen in the density of the pile, although a 
little longer? higher?, but still, after several centuries, with a shine 
and glow I've only ever seen come from silk (perhaps because the silk 
threads were thrown, rather than spun?).  And the types of weave for the 
backgrounds vary, as well--I've seen plainer weaves, and satins.  Must 
have been astonishing when new, instead of this precious, little scrap 
in an art museum!
When you talk about "plush" stuff vs. "cheap," are you thinking, 
perhaps, more in terms of upholstery velvets, rather than ones made for 
clothing? I've found some reasonably good cotton upholstery velvets at 
mill-ends type stores here in the U.S.  They're pretty heavy, though, so 
I'm saving them for costumes in which the weight is appropriate.  I 
guess it depends on what all you're wanting to make! ;-D
--sue

Aylwen & John wrote:

> Hi, I'm looking for an online source for the plush stuff with a decent 
> pile, not the cheap stuff I can get here, but yet again, I don't want it 
> too expensive either. And does anyone know how to keep it from catching 
> all the bits of dirt and fluff it passes?
> Also, silk velvet - is it mostly polyester?


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On Sunday 22 May 2005 8:33 am, Aylwen & John wrote:
> Hi, I'm looking for an online source for the plush stuff with a decent
> pile, not the cheap stuff I can get here, but yet again, I don't want
> it too expensive either. 

Try denverfabrics.com (the cotton velvets, not the velveteens).

> And does anyone know how to keep it from 
> catching all the bits of dirt and fluff it passes?

Nope.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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>Hi, I'm looking for an online source for the plush stuff with a decent 
>pile, not the cheap stuff I can get here, but yet again, I don't want it 
>too expensive either.

Talk to teddy-bear makers.  They use real woven-back plush, not knit-back 
fake fur, for very small bears.


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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Subject: [h-cost] Slightly O.T. Hunnisett query and Teddy update
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I was at a study day yesterday and saw Teddy, who was busily sewing away at 
his terracotta damask doublet for Kentwell. He looked well, and was quite 
busy, hence the sewing at the meeting, which was about narrow wares, 
fingerlooping and so on. Not actually as informative as I would have 
liked,  being a complete ignoramus as far as those arts are concerned.

However, in the course of conversation I mentioned that Jean Hunnisett had 
had some different ideas about ruffs (we were talking about some ruffs I 
just made for a new film on Elizabeth l). Teddy said that he thought he 
remembered a conversation with someone from this list who had met Jean 
while she was in the U.S. and they had talked about ruffs. Please, if it is 
you, could you contact me - I would love to know what she said, as I have a 
part of the story, and not the rest!!

Suzi

http://www.suziclarke.co.uk/viewimage.php?image=/pile-of-ruffs-for-angels.jpg

(Some of the ruffs.)


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Date: Sun, 22 May 2005 13:16:37 -0500
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Slightly O.T. Hunnisett query and Teddy update
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Hi Suzi-



Teddy might have been talking about me, but I think there are others on
the list who went to Jean's ruff making seminars as well. Jean's theory
was that the ruffs weren't pleated to bands as you have done (and as most
people do them) but were actually just strips of fabric closely gathered
and then shaped into the pleats.....hmmmm....that's really not a very
good description....I'll try again...... Instead of using a neck band-
you should just take the long strip of fabric/lace that will become the
ruff and take small pleating stitches along the inner edge. Then pull the
gathering thread to the circumference of the neck and carefully form the
gathers into the type of pleats you want to have- singles, figure eights,
etc. Using pins to hold it in shape is both useful and decorative if they
have glass beads or pearls on the heads. This method means that the ruff
can perch on top of the high doublet collars of the period without
cutting into your lower jaw because the inner edge is quite narrow but
the outer edge is full. Was that a better description?


Karen
Seamstrix





On Sun, 22 May 2005 18:44:37 +0100 Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
writes:
> 
> I was at a study day yesterday and saw Teddy, who was busily sewing 
> away at 
> his terracotta damask doublet for Kentwell. He looked well, and was 
> quite 
> busy, hence the sewing at the meeting, which was about narrow wares, 
> 
> fingerlooping and so on. Not actually as informative as I would have 
> 
> liked,  being a complete ignoramus as far as those arts are 
> concerned.
> 
> However, in the course of conversation I mentioned that Jean 
> Hunnisett had 
> had some different ideas about ruffs (we were talking about some 
> ruffs I 
> just made for a new film on Elizabeth l). Teddy said that he thought 
> he 
> remembered a conversation with someone from this list who had met 
> Jean 
> while she was in the U.S. and they had talked about ruffs. Please, 
> if it is 
> you, could you contact me - I would love to know what she said, as I 
> have a 
> part of the story, and not the rest!!
> 
> Suzi
> 
>
http://www.suziclarke.co.uk/viewimage.php?image=/pile-of-ruffs-for-angels
.jpg
> 
> (Some of the ruffs.)
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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> 
> 
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@frys.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Slightly O.T. Hunnisett query and Teddy update
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The ruffs in portraits of Mary, Queen of Scots, show this method very 
clearly.  I'd say it was better than a theory, in the early part of the 
ruff-wearing period.  Later on, when ruffs resemble mill wheels, they were 
probably pleated onto a band.  I think there's a surviving example of one 
of these (somewhere).

>Teddy might have been talking about me, but I think there are others on
>the list who went to Jean's ruff making seminars as well. Jean's theory
>was that the ruffs weren't pleated to bands as you have done (and as most
>people do them) but were actually just strips of fabric closely gathered
>and then shaped into the pleats.....hmmmm....that's really not a very
>good description....I'll try again...... Instead of using a neck band-
>you should just take the long strip of fabric/lace that will become the
>ruff and take small pleating stitches along the inner edge. Then pull the
>gathering thread to the circumference of the neck and carefully form the
>gathers into the type of pleats you want to have- singles, figure eights,
>etc. Using pins to hold it in shape is both useful and decorative if they
>have glass beads or pearls on the heads. This method means that the ruff
>can perch on top of the high doublet collars of the period without
>cutting into your lower jaw because the inner edge is quite narrow but
>the outer edge is full. Was that a better description?


        CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
          www.FunStuft.com

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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for source of "plush" cotton velvet
Date: Sun, 22 May 2005 09:19:36 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Silk velvet is mostly rayon.  No poly.

On May 22, 2005, at 6:33 AM, Aylwen & John wrote:

> Hi, I'm looking for an online source for the plush stuff with a decent 
> pile, not the cheap stuff I can get here, but yet again, I don't want 
> it too expensive either. And does anyone know how to keep it from 
> catching all the bits of dirt and fluff it passes?
> Also, silk velvet - is it mostly polyester?
> Thanks, Aylwen Garden
>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Slightly O.T. Hunnisett query and Teddy update
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At 13:16 22/05/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi Suzi-
>
>
>
>Teddy might have been talking about me, but I think there are others on
>the list who went to Jean's ruff making seminars as well. Jean's theory
>was that the ruffs weren't pleated to bands as you have done (and as most
>people do them) but were actually just strips of fabric closely gathered
>and then shaped into the pleats.....hmmmm....that's really not a very
>good description....I'll try again...... Instead of using a neck band-
>you should just take the long strip of fabric/lace that will become the
>ruff and take small pleating stitches along the inner edge. Then pull the
>gathering thread to the circumference of the neck and carefully form the
>gathers into the type of pleats you want to have- singles, figure eights,
>etc. Using pins to hold it in shape is both useful and decorative if they
>have glass beads or pearls on the heads. This method means that the ruff
>can perch on top of the high doublet collars of the period without
>cutting into your lower jaw because the inner edge is quite narrow but
>the outer edge is full. Was that a better description?


That makes a lot of sense - thank you so much.

The ruffs for Angels were not done in any of the ways I usually do. They 
use a layer of "crin" and a layer of something else, with a lace edge sewn 
on,  cotton organdie in my case, organza or wide lace fabric in 
others.  Then you just pleat them to the top and bottom of a neckband. They 
look effective, and at a distance, which is what the ones I did are for, 
nobody will know. They don't wilt under the lights, of course.

I have others, from Jean's previous instructions, on my web site.

Suzi

www.suziclarke.co.uk


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>>Why wait for a "reason" to dress up??? Just do it, BECAUSE YOU CAN!!! 


It helps to have a venue where the costuming is both appropriate and 
appreciated, but I find it's pretty easy here in the US to find such 
occasions. Aside from the SCA, LARP and Renfest events, there's no 
shortage of Revolutionary War, Civil War, Indian Powwow, and Mountain 
Men events within driving distance of almost anywhere, for those who 
want to join those groups. Likewise, every community I've lived in has 
had some sort of annual Ethnic Festival or Historical Days event where 
costumes can be worn. Then there's the whole SciFi/Fantasy/ 
Gaming/ComicBook convention scene. You can do theatre, you can join a 
dance troupe, you can do living history at a historical site. There's 
something for everybody out there.

The problem for me is not in finding a place to play Dress Up, it's in 
picking which of the many events I want to attend. I do 4-6 costume 
events a year, only one is SCA, and one is a renfest. And I live in the 
boring ol' midwest, land of hillbillies and cornfields.




Dawn



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I am getting the following messages for all messages from this list 
over the last 12 hours. How do I access them online? Where do I go? 
I've never had this happen before.
Thanks, Aylwen Garden



The message from Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> concerning Re: [h-cost] Dress 
up <G> has not been downloaded from the server. You need to take this 
account online in order to download it.

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Aywlen,

I am not receiving this message.

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com 
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com 
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com

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Subject: [h-cost] Cockpits quotes
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I promised to send quotes about the Cockpit when formatting the webpages for the Queens of Society, Sarah, Duchess of Marlborough webpages.

I will send them as I run across them.  Here is one:

One by one friends and courtiers deserted James II: but Prince George of

Denmark still remained near him during his flight into Salisbury. Whenever

any fresh desertion took place, Prince George, with some diplomacy, merely 

exclaimed, "Estil possible?" At last he went too. Upon hearing of 

his withdrawal, James, with a degree of humor which we would rather have 

expected from Charles II, exclaimed--"What! is Est-il possible gone 

too? On his return, however, to his capital, James found that Anne had

also fled: her apartments at the Cockpit, in Westminster, were empty. "God

help me!" cried the disconsolate king; "my own children have forsaken me."

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com 
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com 
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
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More quotes... long one...

The Princess Anne, as we have seen, lived in that part of Whitehall called

from its entrance the Cockpit. St. James' Park, which, in the time of

Henry VIII, belonged to the Abbot into Westminster, was bought by that 
monarch

and converted into a park, a tennis-court, and a cock-pit, which was 
situated

where Downing Street now is. The park was approached by two noble gates, and

until the year 1708, the Cockpit Gate, which opened into the court where 
Anne

lived, was standing. It was surmounted with lofty towers and battlements,

and had a portcullis, and many rich decorations. Westminster Gate, the other

entrance, was designated by Hans Holbein, and some foreign architect

doubtless erected the Cockpit Gate.

The scene of the cruel diversion of cock-fighting was, indeed, obliterated

before Anne's time, and the palace, which was one long range of apartments

and offices reaching to the river, extended over that space.

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com 


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This may have something to do with your outlook setup.  I think it should be 
true of all your mail though.  It may mean that your account server wants 
you to manuall go online and pick up your mail, not the list, but your 
personal mail account.

Hope you can figure it out.

angela
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Aylwen & John" <garden@earthlydelights.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2005 6:08 PM
Subject: [h-cost] message problems


>I am getting the following messages for all messages from this list over 
>the last 12 hours. How do I access them online? Where do I go? I've never 
>had this happen before.
> Thanks, Aylwen Garden
>
>
>
> The message from Dawn <dawn@reddawn.net> concerning Re: [h-cost] Dress up 
> <G> has not been downloaded from the server. You need to take this 
> account online in order to download it.
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From: michael tartaglio <mikes@dandy.net>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] white gloves
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Hi. Most of our artifacts are farm tools and are of the 18th/19th Cent. 
vintage, so gloves would be for keeping your hands clean from the tools 
:). Actually, it depends on the items. I have a number of items that, if 
many people are handling them, are best handled gloved, such as books 
and papers. I cautioned a member of the public just yesterday about 
running his hands over a 350 year old sword blade, not that he would 
have done much damage, but more to emphasize the possibility that his 
skin secretions might do some damage at some point. Good ol' fellow, he 
was checking the sharpness of the blade...Most times, I keep the items 
in a case and I only handle them and hand them over only to trained 
folks who are careful.  Mike T.

>  
>
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun May 22 22:39:09 2005
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From: "michaela" <thebruce@ihug.co.nz>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <AADDCA5C-CABD-11D9-9881-000393B11100@earthlydelights.com.au>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for source of "plush" cotton velvet
Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 14:38:13 +1200
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> The examples I've personally seen of *historical* silk velvets reminded
> me of a modern cotton velveteen in the density of the pile, although a
> little longer? higher?, but still, after several centuries, with a shine
> and glow I've only ever seen come from silk (perhaps because the silk
> threads were thrown, rather than spun?).

I got to handle an 1870s smoking cap last year and it resembled a nice
washed velveteen in every way including the lustre.  This was rather worn as
well though;)

But there was also a tv show on Shakespear that looked into what fabrics
might have been given to him when King James died. The decided it was
probably wool, but also looked at a bolt of crimson silk velvet. The shop
involved had been in business sicne the 17thC and their techniqies were
traditional.

The bolt looked for all the world like regular velveteen. Of course if I'd
have had a chance to see it in person,  handle it and see it under different
lights etc then there woudl no doubt have been differences.

In books that I've seen also there are some pretty flat piled velvets as
well.

http://www.marquise.de/en/1600/nat/n1.shtml
Dorothea Sabina von Neuburg's dress.

> When you talk about "plush" stuff vs. "cheap," are you thinking,
> perhaps, more in terms of upholstery velvets, rather than ones made for
> clothing? I've found some reasonably good cotton upholstery velvets at
> mill-ends type stores here in the U.S.  They're pretty heavy, though, so
> I'm saving them for costumes in which the weight is appropriate.  I
> guess it depends on what all you're wanting to make! ;-D

Actually there are some super soft and plush velvets in cotton available. I
come across second hand skirts in amazing soft very dense piled cotton
velvet all the time. But finding them to buy is another matter.

http://costumes.glittersweet.com/historical/bella.htm
the bolero is from a skirt of this sort.
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/cleves.htm
that is a set of velvet curtains washed, conditioned and hung in the rain.
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/valois.htm
Velveteen treated the same way and backed with a medium weight cotton.


I suspect one would have to look at European makers for cotton velvet.

michaela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com



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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sun May 22 23:17:00 2005
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Not a museum person here ... but my dad runs one. :)

While I was at UT I did a lot of research at the HRC. The books I wanted to 
see required white cotton gloves to handle them and a special copier to use 
if I wanted photo copies. THe please was pretty empty all the time so they 
never whispered when I was there. :)

(`'ˇ.¸(`'ˇ.¸(`'ˇ.¸¸.ˇ'´)¸.ˇ '´)¸.ˇ'´)
Ťˇ.ˇ*¨`ˇ¤  Chiara   ¤ˇ´¨*ˇ.ˇť
(¸.ˇ'´(¸.ˇ'´(¸.ˇ'´`'ˇ.¸)`'ˇ .¸)`'ˇ.¸) 

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon May 23 00:54:57 2005
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Could someone please forward on to me the messages with the subject 
headers:
Slightly O.T. Hunnisett query and Teddy update
Dress Up
and the ones about "plush" cotton velvet.

My system is working again, but I still can't read those messages.
Thanks, Aylwen

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon May 23 01:12:58 2005
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Laura Waack" <pottratzwaack@hotmail.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2005 12:09 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Frontier House/Colonial House


> Does anyone remember the very first one - Victorian or Edwardian House?
> That was one of the best ones - what I remember the most is how they
> discovered how incredibly BORED the women got because of the restrictions
on
> their lives.  They said they thought that was why melodramas became so
> popular because it was an outlet.  So I liked that one because they
actually
> learned something about the way our ancestors lived that they wouldn't
have
> figured out without someone actually trying to live that way.  I knew
their
> lives were restrictive, but watching the women try to live it and get so
> frustrated brought it home.

Well the first one was 1900 house, which was made about 4 - 5 years ago (I
think), then the current flurry of houses started with the Edwardian Country
house in 2002. I missed 1900 house as I didn't watch anything else on that
channel so I never saw the ads and forgot about it. I think Edwardian
country house started the trend of focusing on how hard this is because the
servants didn't cope well with working an 18 hour day. Of the ones I've seen
the Regency house party was the one where the participants (especially the
women) got the most bored, as they were playing the leisured class and had
servants to do everything for them, they were expected to spend all day
doing virtually nothing.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]iimetro.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: message problems
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At 15:00 23/05/2005 +1000, you wrote:
>Could someone please forward on to me the messages with the subject headers:
>Slightly O.T. Hunnisett query and Teddy update
>Dress Up
>and the ones about "plush" cotton velvet.


Aylwen

The Teddy update message, in brief, said that I had seen Teddy at a 
meeting, and he was fine.  He mentioned that someone on the list had talked 
with Jean Hunnisett about a different way of making ruffs, and I asked if 
it was someone on the list could they contact me.

I had a message from Karen Bergquist which gave me the information I needed.

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] message problems - german worm virus
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This morning I downloaded my email and several messages from people I  
recognized as h-costumers were delivered to my spam folder.  When I  looked in the 
folder at the subject lines I saw that some of us apparently have  the german 
worm virus people are talking about.  This is denoted with  german language 
subject lines.  Go here:   
_http://www.pcworld.com/news/article/0,aid,120846,00.asp_ (http://www.pcworld.com/news/article/0,aid,120846,00.asp) 
 
Take care,
Susannnah
 
 
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 338
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I do 4-6 costume events a year, only one is SCA, and one is a renfest.
And I live in the 
boring ol' midwest, land of hillbillies and cornfields.

Dawn
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Ok, boring and cornfields I agree on but I think most of the
hillbillies are a little southeast of us :).

Catherine
who is also in the Kansas City area

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One of the gems gleaned from the local Library book sale:
The Illustrated Peyps, selected and edited by Robert Latham, 1978. (portraits, drawings and other paintings from the times of...) The sale was in its last days at $2 per bag, so I guess I paid about $.10..  Also, a neat small volume of the paintings of Carpaccio, translated from the Italian, and distributed in the US in 1958. While not a major 16th C painter, there are some very nice heroic and genre pictures for costume perusal.  Both these pieces came from a personal library and were complete with their dust jackets!

Kathleen
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From: J Schueller <jaurbik@optonline.net>
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Subject: [h-cost] Flemish-Christ and the adultress.
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Hello all

Well, I will not be going to pennsic this year (probably) but my husband 
is and has...ahm... outgrown all/most of his garb.  I have been meaning 
to replace it as most of it was made before I met him and had no 
decernable authenticity anyway. 

__________
Anyway, I am thinking a bunch(5) of white tops like one sees at the 
bottom right hand corner of this picture (link below)
http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/b/bruegel/pieter_y/proverb.html
(later-dont have a date on the painting, but the painter was born in b. 
1564, Bruxelles, d. 1638, Antwerp
__________
A couple of colored tunics and some pants al la these two guys (again, 
bottom right)
http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/a/aertsen/christ_a.html     
about 1559 Antwep
__________
http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/a/aertsen/egg-danc.html
1557 Antwerp again
__________
         Christ and the adulteress --> The older guy , if you look at 
him, looks like he has a narrow gathered wasit(no waist band) and very 
curved in the crouch area.  The younger guy lets you see the bottoms of 
the pants-where it looks like the pants are fairly straight legged.  I 
have also seen some fairly contemporary painting with slightly wider 
pants. 

          Also, the young guy's red tunic seem to have tight inset 
sleeves.  Does it seem like that to you?  Would you folks think that 
most of the heavier tunic had set in sleeves for this period or old 
fashion  and the red tunic in the egg dance.   Also, does not look like 
there would be an undershirt on under these shirts.

Ok, my MAIN question has to do with the pant's construction.   Would you 
guys think that the pants are like modern pants, with the curved crouch 
seams, or straight seams with a gusset.  I think that the older guy's 
inseam looks like a pair with gussets, but I am not sure.  Also, if i 
use a gusset, how BIG should I make the gusset? 

I plan on making hosen for him (a la the guys in the egg dance, but he 
has put in a request that for this pennsic he just can have some pants!)
On a related note, I know someone refered me to one site that had a lot 
of details for flemish men, but i can't seem to find it.....

Thanks, J Schueller

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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
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Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 17:54:36 -0700
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Subject: [h-cost] Attachment Question
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A couple of weeks ago I wrote that I had scored a Singer Touch and Sew with
cabinet for $47.25.  Well, once I had the machine I wanted some of the
attachments, such as the button hole maker since there was this nifty eyelet
maker.  Well I got the Professional Buttonholer off E-Bay for $5.00 plus
$4.95 shipping and handling :-/ (chuckle).  Only thing is that there are no
instructions with it.  I can remember the one that my mother's very old
machine had, but not how to operate it.  Does anyone have a set of
instructions that they would be willing to share?

Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey
Never attribute to malice what can as easily
be attributed to simple social ineptness

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You can buy manuals from this website.  http://www.sewusa.com/

Wanda Pease wrote:

>A couple of weeks ago I wrote that I had scored a Singer Touch and Sew with
>cabinet for $47.25.  Well, once I had the machine I wanted some of the
>attachments, such as the button hole maker since there was this nifty eyelet
>maker.  Well I got the Professional Buttonholer off E-Bay for $5.00 plus
>$4.95 shipping and handling :-/ (chuckle).  Only thing is that there are no
>instructions with it.  I can remember the one that my mother's very old
>machine had, but not how to operate it.  Does anyone have a set of
>instructions that they would be willing to share?
>
>Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey
>Never attribute to malice what can as easily
>be attributed to simple social ineptness
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>
>
>  
>

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon May 23 23:01:58 2005
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Attachment Question
Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 20:05:09 -0700
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The manual for the sewing machine is what is offered here.  I actually have
that.  What I want is the manual or more likely the leaflet that came with
the buttonhole attachment that showed how to hook it up and use it.  It's
not that weird but I think the instructions would probably save me a lot of
frustration from trial and error.  I tend to do a lot more erring when I'm
on trial.  Even when I do get it right I tend to forget exactly how I
managed it.  I've been having "Senior Moments" since kindergarten!

Regina

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of General
> Sent: Monday, May 23, 2005 7:22 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Attachment Question
>
>
> You can buy manuals from this website.  http://www.sewusa.com/
>
> Wanda Pease wrote:
>
> >A couple of weeks ago I wrote that I had scored a Singer Touch
> and Sew with
> >cabinet for $47.25.  Well, once I had the machine I wanted some of the
> >attachments, such as the button hole maker since there was this
> nifty eyelet
>

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue May 24 09:35:56 2005
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Flemish-Christ and the adultress.
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Hi J,
I wonder if this is not the site you are looking for:  
http://home.uchicago.edu/~atterlep/costuming/costumingindex.htm

I don't have anything to support my views on several of your issues 
except my own observations, but I would say most of the men's clothing 
in Breugel's stuff have set in sleeves, both the tight fitting tunics 
and the heavier skirted "over coat like gowns."  As to the pants, I 
cannot render an opinion, though I believe you might find some 
information on trousers at Marc Carlson's website.  If you choose to go 
with the gusset, I guess you make it as big as it needs to be!  Ahem! 

As for a shirt under the tighter tunics-maybe not, because there is at 
least written evindence that not all folks owned them (at least some 
Germans).   (if you need that ref. I can get it for you).  But, I would 
still wear one just for ease of laundering during the war.  It can be 
made not to show if you want the "look."

Sg


>
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue May 24 10:19:37 2005
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Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 08:18:37 -0600
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Subject: [h-cost] Colonial House
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Did anyone see the story in the news yesterday about the new Colonial 
House tv series that is being postponed, if not cancelled, because one 
of the participants apparently committed suicide?  Or has this already 
been mentioned and I didn't notice?

Sylrog

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Hi,
Now i can show you my habit francaise made excactly like a cut of Gustav 
III's weddingsuit. It was painfull for me to wear it though, because the 
shoulders are so tight and pressed back. But it gave the right look.
More pictures from the wonderfull visit at the Gustavians in Stockholm on 
friday when i have more time.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/gustaviansk1766.htm
Suit was sewed in silk duchesse satin ( a fortune to make) and handmade 
bobbin silver lace on the jacket.

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 08:38:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris <emeraldepona@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gustavian suit 1766
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Absolutely WONDERFUL!!!  Thanks so much and I can't wait to see more pic's...
 
Chris G.

Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:

Hi,
Now i can show you my habit francaise made excactly like a cut of Gustav 
III's weddingsuit. It was painfull for me to wear it though, because the 
shoulders are so tight and pressed back. But it gave the right look.
More pictures from the wonderfull visit at the Gustavians in Stockholm on 
friday when i have more time.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/gustaviansk1766.htm
Suit was sewed in silk duchesse satin ( a fortune to make) and handmade 
bobbin silver lace on the jacket.

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 09:38:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gustavian suit 1766
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OH MY GOSH!!!  Bjarne, that is the most beautiful suit I have ever seen.  I am so impressed.  You do such fabulous work!!!!

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:

From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 16:49:21 +0200
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] Gustavian suit 1766


Hi,
Now i can show you my habit francaise made excactly like a cut of Gustav 
III's weddingsuit. It was painfull for me to wear it though, because the 
shoulders are so tight and pressed back. But it gave the right look.
More pictures from the wonderfull visit at the Gustavians in Stockholm on 
friday when i have more time.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/gustaviansk1766.htm
Suit was sewed in silk duchesse satin ( a fortune to make) and handmade 
bobbin silver lace on the jacket.

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


_______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue May 24 12:42:43 2005
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From: Lalah <lalahcatlady@netscape.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Attachment Question
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I am not sure if the buttonhole attachment for the Touch and Sew is the same as the attachment for the Model 301 slant needle.  If it is, I have my manual at the other house and can pick it up later this week and make a copy.  My 301 is a 1955 model if that is any help. 

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com> wrote:

From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 20:05:09 -0700
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Attachment Question

The manual for the sewing machine is what is offered here.  I actually have
that.  What I want is the manual or more likely the leaflet that came with
the buttonhole attachment that showed how to hook it up and use it.  It's
not that weird but I think the instructions would probably save me a lot of
frustration from trial and error.  I tend to do a lot more erring when I'm
on trial.  Even when I do get it right I tend to forget exactly how I
managed it.  I've been having "Senior Moments" since kindergarten!

Regina

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of General
> Sent: Monday, May 23, 2005 7:22 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Attachment Question
>
>
> You can buy manuals from this website.  http://www.sewusa.com/
>
> Wanda Pease wrote:
>
> >A couple of weeks ago I wrote that I had scored a Singer Touch
> and Sew with
> >cabinet for $47.25.  Well, once I had the machine I wanted some of the
> >attachments, such as the button hole maker since there was this
> nifty eyelet
>

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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue May 24 13:25:47 2005
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From: Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Dye Colors Question
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OK, so I'm merrily proceeding with dyeing a different lot of cotton 
items every 2 weeks (alternate weekends) with Procion MX dye.  Two 
questions:

A:  Is it a general experience with Dharma Trading Co's dyes that the 
shades are both lighter and brighter than those on their printed chart?  
For example, with their dark green I got a pleasant medium green, with 
their rust brown I got a rather bright rust orange, with their golden 
brown I got a lovely darkish gold (but not a brown). I did follow the 
instructions for washer dyeing, though I cut the salt down to 3 cups a 
load to preserve the insides of the washer.  I like the colors I got 
(except for that horrible load of "peach" that turned out lurid orange), 
but they're not what I expected.

B:  There are many other companies selling Procion MX dyes.  Their 
colors look different on my monitor than Dharma's, and different from 
each other's online charts.  However, as net colors are usually 
unreliable and anyone can use any color name that markets the color, 
that's meaningless. I just sent for some of the other companies' print 
charts, but when these arrive who knows if they will be completely 
accurate either? 

So, what I want to know is:  ARE other companies really carrying 
different color ranges?  Or does the dye manufacturer just send them all 
a table that says (for example) "to get medium green mix X amount of our 
basic yellow and X amount of our basic blue"?  And then the vendors all 
follow that table, rather than developing their own colors? 

In other words, if I order more dyes from a company other than Dharma 
will I actually get anything different?  Dharma provides fast, efficient 
service, and they have some Procion MX colors I like.  However, they 
don't have some colors I really want. I like earthtones (rather muddy 
colors) and their selection runs more to clear brights.  I know I can 
mix my own dyes from three or so basics, but someone else's mix might be 
more reliable than my beginner efforts at dye mixing.

Thanks for any info.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com




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In a message dated 5/24/2005 1:25:31 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
fran@lavoltapress.com writes:

In other  words, if I order more dyes from a company other than Dharma 
will I  actually get anything different?  


I doubt it. I mean is Dharma manufacturing the dyes? It seems to me that  the 
manufacturers making the dyes have a formula for each color and this is what  
goes out to distributors.
 
Like with all pigments...I'm thinking when I used to buy oil  
paint...different manufacturers have different shades of say "ultramarine  blue"....but if I 
bought the same brand of paint, the color would be the same no  mater what 
store I got it from.
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gustavian suit 1766
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Gorgeous, Bjarne--although that's no surprise!
Despite any discomfort in the style, you wear it very well.
Looking forward to the rest of the pictures!

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-----Original Message-----
From: Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
Sent: May 24, 2005 10:49 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Gustavian suit 1766


Hi,
Now i can show you my habit francaise made excactly like a cut of Gustav 
III's weddingsuit. It was painfull for me to wear it though, because the 
shoulders are so tight and pressed back. But it gave the right look.
More pictures from the wonderfull visit at the Gustavians in Stockholm on 
friday when i have more time.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/gustaviansk1766.htm
Suit was sewed in silk duchesse satin ( a fortune to make) and handmade 
bobbin silver lace on the jacket.

Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue May 24 14:31:19 2005
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gustavian suit 1766
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Hi Ruth, Chris and Lalah,

Thanks for your phraises. I can tell you that many beautifull costumes 
appeared there, and for the first time in my life i saw a lady wearing a 
calash. I got many beautifull pictures taken of the event, and i shall post 
them for you on friday.
Somehow it was very inspiring for me to be there, and i got a lot of new 
energy, so that i have started the dress with the stumpwork again.
But even that the suit looks nice, i can tell you that it is very very 
delicate and every spot is seen emediately.
During our dinner we also had lobster crayfish wich are supposed to be eaten 
with your hands and you have to crush the shell. And it bursts out 
everywhere.
That suit needs a drycleaning allready. I wonder how many  bucks this wil 
cost me, because i want to use it again next month when i go to a 1700 fair 
at Gammel Estrup Castle - if i will find a cleaner that will take it?
But anyway it also needs a better shirt with bigger lace ruffles, the one i 
have is not enough bursting as it should do with this style........

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <ruthanneb@mindspring.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 24, 2005 8:13 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gustavian suit 1766


> Gorgeous, Bjarne--although that's no surprise!
> Despite any discomfort in the style, you wear it very well.
> Looking forward to the rest of the pictures!
>
> --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
> scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bjarne og Leif Drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> Sent: May 24, 2005 10:49 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Gustavian suit 1766
>
>
> Hi,
> Now i can show you my habit francaise made excactly like a cut of Gustav
> III's weddingsuit. It was painfull for me to wear it though, because the
> shoulders are so tight and pressed back. But it gave the right look.
> More pictures from the wonderfull visit at the Gustavians in Stockholm on
> friday when i have more time.
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/gustaviansk1766.htm
> Suit was sewed in silk duchesse satin ( a fortune to make) and handmade
> bobbin silver lace on the jacket.
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
> _______________________________________________
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> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Tue May 24 14:45:15 2005
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylrog@fone.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dye Colors Question
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 12:44:17 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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As I understand it, there are several basic dye colors with 
standardized names that all the dye companies use.  The also use those 
to mix their own shades.  There are frequent discussions of this on the 
dyers list.  Maybe you should subscribe to it and you can check the 
archives.

Sylrog

On May 24, 2005, at 11:24 AM, Lavolta Press wrote:

> OK, so I'm merrily proceeding with dyeing a different lot of cotton 
> items every 2 weeks (alternate weekends) with Procion MX dye.  Two 
> questions:
>
> A:  Is it a general experience with Dharma Trading Co's dyes that the 
> shades are both lighter and brighter than those on their printed 
> chart?  For example, with their dark green I got a pleasant medium 
> green, with their rust brown I got a rather bright rust orange, with 
> their golden brown I got a lovely darkish gold (but not a brown). I 
> did follow the instructions for washer dyeing, though I cut the salt 
> down to 3 cups a load to preserve the insides of the washer.  I like 
> the colors I got (except for that horrible load of "peach" that turned 
> out lurid orange), but they're not what I expected.
>
> B:  There are many other companies selling Procion MX dyes.  Their 
> colors look different on my monitor than Dharma's, and different from 
> each other's online charts.  However, as net colors are usually 
> unreliable and anyone can use any color name that markets the color, 
> that's meaningless. I just sent for some of the other companies' print 
> charts, but when these arrive who knows if they will be completely 
> accurate either?
> So, what I want to know is:  ARE other companies really carrying 
> different color ranges?  Or does the dye manufacturer just send them 
> all a table that says (for example) "to get medium green mix X amount 
> of our basic yellow and X amount of our basic blue"?  And then the 
> vendors all follow that table, rather than developing their own 
> colors?
> In other words, if I order more dyes from a company other than Dharma 
> will I actually get anything different?  Dharma provides fast, 
> efficient service, and they have some Procion MX colors I like.  
> However, they don't have some colors I really want. I like earthtones 
> (rather muddy colors) and their selection runs more to clear brights.  
> I know I can mix my own dyes from three or so basics, but someone 
> else's mix might be more reliable than my beginner efforts at dye 
> mixing.
>
> Thanks for any info.
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Dye Colors Question
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I've had a similar problem where all the Procion dyes have come out more
reddish-orange than the chart would suggest. It may be something about
your local water instead of the dye. I'd love to hear anyone else's
opinion

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Tuesday, May 24, 2005 1:25 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Dye Colors Question

OK, so I'm merrily proceeding with dyeing a different lot of cotton 
items every 2 weeks (alternate weekends) with Procion MX dye.  Two 
questions:

A:  Is it a general experience with Dharma Trading Co's dyes that the 
shades are both lighter and brighter than those on their printed chart?

For example, with their dark green I got a pleasant medium green, with 
their rust brown I got a rather bright rust orange, with their golden 
brown I got a lovely darkish gold (but not a brown). I did follow the 
instructions for washer dyeing, though I cut the salt down to 3 cups a 
load to preserve the insides of the washer.  I like the colors I got 
(except for that horrible load of "peach" that turned out lurid orange),

but they're not what I expected.

B:  There are many other companies selling Procion MX dyes.  Their 
colors look different on my monitor than Dharma's, and different from 
each other's online charts.  However, as net colors are usually 
unreliable and anyone can use any color name that markets the color, 
that's meaningless. I just sent for some of the other companies' print 
charts, but when these arrive who knows if they will be completely 
accurate either? 

So, what I want to know is:  ARE other companies really carrying 
different color ranges?  Or does the dye manufacturer just send them all

a table that says (for example) "to get medium green mix X amount of our

basic yellow and X amount of our basic blue"?  And then the vendors all 
follow that table, rather than developing their own colors? 

In other words, if I order more dyes from a company other than Dharma 
will I actually get anything different?  Dharma provides fast, efficient

service, and they have some Procion MX colors I like.  However, they 
don't have some colors I really want. I like earthtones (rather muddy 
colors) and their selection runs more to clear brights.  I know I can 
mix my own dyes from three or so basics, but someone else's mix might be

more reliable than my beginner efforts at dye mixing.

Thanks for any info.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com




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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Dye Colors Question
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I think
1. Picture color and monitors very in color shown.
2. It is the same company/brand so the ingredients are the same so the
"problem"(?) is probably on your end.
Water type can effect dyeing. cutting back on the salt could be doing it,
especially if you have hard water. Do you have enough dye ratio to fabric
weight to water amount?
As well as getting on the weavers and dyer's list, you could ask Dharma
Trading about this.
Something I came across
"Which Procion MX colors are pure, and which mixtures?
The ones without MX codes are mixed by the supplier. The ones that have MX
codes may be either pure colors, or mixtures prepared by the manufacturer.
Be sure that your dye source tells you the MX codes for those of the Procion
MX dyes they sell that have them. (Several suppliers include this info in
their printed catalogs, but not their on-line catalogs - be sure to request
a printed catalog!)
Many more dichlorotriazine dyes exist in the Procion line, but not all are
under commercial productions. It seems that there are also a number that are
manufactured currently, but which do not happen to be supplied to any of the
distributors that supply dyes in small enough quantities for a single
individual to use."
http://www.pburch.net/dyeing/FAQ/pureMXcolors.shtml


De



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Just spectacular, Bjarne.  As always.
Thanks for sharing the pictures.
          -Helen/Aidan

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Sylvia Rognstad wrote:

> Did anyone see the story in the news yesterday about the new Colonial 
> House tv series that is being postponed, if not cancelled, because one 
> of the participants apparently committed suicide?  Or has this already 
> been mentioned and I didn't notice?


I hadn't heard anything until you mentioned it, so I went looking and 
found this article :

http://www.guardian.co.uk/australia/story/0,12070,1490737,00.html#article_continue


Seems to be an Australian version of Colonial House, and it doesn't say 
anything about a suicide, only that the girl went missing and was found 
dead near her home after the series wrapped up.

I imagine they'll want to re-edit and delay the premiere out of respect 
for the family.



Dawn


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Yes, that was the apage I was thinking of, thank you very much.


Wicked Frau wrote:

> Hi J,
> I wonder if this is not the site you are looking for:  
> http://home.uchicago.edu/~atterlep/costuming/costumingindex.htm
>
> I don't have anything to support my views on several of your issues 
> except my own observations, but I would say most of the men's clothing 
> in Breugel's stuff have set in sleeves, both the tight fitting tunics 
> and the heavier skirted "over coat like gowns."  As to the pants, I 
> cannot render an opinion, though I believe you might find some 
> information on trousers at Marc Carlson's website.  If you choose to 
> go with the gusset, I guess you make it as big as it needs to be!  Ahem!
> As for a shirt under the tighter tunics-maybe not, because there is at 
> least written evindence that not all folks owned them (at least some 
> Germans).   (if you need that ref. I can get it for you).  But, I 
> would still wear one just for ease of laundering during the war.  It 
> can be made not to show if you want the "look."
>
> Sg
>
>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gustavian suit 1766
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Bjarne, this is so beautiful, and you look radiant!

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 24, 2005 10:49 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Gustavian suit 1766


>
> Hi,
> Now i can show you my habit francaise made excactly like a cut of Gustav
> III's weddingsuit. It was painfull for me to wear it though, because the
> shoulders are so tight and pressed back. But it gave the right look.
> More pictures from the wonderfull visit at the Gustavians in Stockholm on
> friday when i have more time.
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/gustaviansk1766.htm
> Suit was sewed in silk duchesse satin ( a fortune to make) and handmade
> bobbin silver lace on the jacket.
>
> Bjarne
>
>
>
>
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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From: Julie <jtknits@jtknits.cts.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] Gustavian suit 1766
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Gorgeous!  What a shame it doesn't feel as good as it looks.
I'd love to see a close up of the bobbin lace if you have a chance.
Thanks
Julie
----  <h-costume@indra.com> wrote:
> Hi,
> Now i can show you my habit francaise made excactly like a cut of Gustav 
> III's weddingsuit. It was painfull for me to wear it though, because the 
> shoulders are so tight and pressed back. But it gave the right look.
> More pictures from the wonderfull visit at the Gustavians in Stockholm on 
> friday when i have more time.
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/gustaviansk1766.htm
> Suit was sewed in silk duchesse satin ( a fortune to make) and handmade 
> bobbin silver lace on the jacket.
> 
> Bjarne
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
>

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Colonial House
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I hadn't heard that there was a new Colonial House series, at all.  Just 
the one done within the last couple of years, that took place in Maine?
The only reality t.v. show that I know of that's connected with a 
suicide is that one with the boxers (The Contender??)--I don't watch it, 
but do recall reading that one of the contestants had indeed killed 
himself.  IIRC, the network ran "his" show (already taped) anyway. 
Don't know any more than that....
--Sue, who has been haunting her 18th c. costuming texts lately....

Sylvia Rognstad wrote:

> Did anyone see the story in the news yesterday about the new Colonial 
> House tv series that is being postponed, if not cancelled, because one 
> of the participants apparently committed suicide?  Or has this already 
> been mentioned and I didn't notice?


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Dawn:

Thanks for posting that article on "The Colony." I wonder if it will air
here in the USA? I thought the part about the teenage girls knotting their
shirts and the producers arguing with them was very interesting. I've always
wanted to know how the relationships between the producers and the "casts"
of those shows went -- whether the producers pushed the cast members to act
a certain way. It sounds as if these particular producers were interested in
authenticity.

I'm sorry to hear about the girl's death. How sad for the families.

Gail Finke

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gustavian suit 1766/lobster
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Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> During our dinner we also had lobster crayfish wich are supposed to be 
> eaten with your hands and you have to crush the shell. And it bursts out 
> everywhere.  That suit needs a drycleaning allready.

Oh no!  Maybe you should bring a special large linen napkin that will 
cover you better than whatever is usually provided?

I ran across lobster mentioned in Pepys' diary for today:

Saturday 24 May 1662
http://www.pepysdiary.com/archive/1662/05/24/index.php

(edited)
After a morning draft at the Star in Cheapside, I took him to the 
Exchange, thence home, but my wife having dined, I took him to Fish 
Street, and there we had a couple of lobsters, and dined upon them, and 
much discourse.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"Want to see my Brass Rubbings?"
     "Mediaevalist on Board" license plate frames
           at http://www.cafepress.com/virtueventures
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On Tuesday 24 May 2005 10:49 am, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:
> Hi,
> Now i can show you my habit francaise made excactly like a cut of Gustav
> III's weddingsuit. It was painfull for me to wear it though, because the
> shoulders are so tight and pressed back. But it gave the right look.
> More pictures from the wonderfull visit at the Gustavians in Stockholm on
> friday when i have more time.

Absolutely splendid.  You look as though you stepped out of a period portrait.


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 22:38:46 -0700
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Subject: [h-cost] Further Adventures with Buttonholes and E-Bay
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Well, I have a working machine, a buttonholer with all the cams that fits
it, the instruction booklet.  All with the touch of the Luck.  Well, sorta.
Being a new E-bayer when I went out to look for the feet and buttonholer I
found several.  One was snapped up from under my nose for $45.00 and silly
me figured that must be the going price.  I found another with a $5.00
beginning bid and put in a bit over that.  I went further and found another
for .99 and bid on that thinking that surely I would get neither.
Particularly since I wouldn't be in town to engage in a bidding war for
either.

I got back into town to find myself the sole bidder on the $5.00 with it's
$4.95 shipping and handling.  Happy me.

Then I thought about the .99 one and realized that I couldn't take the bid
back and my maximum bid was way more than what I had actually paid for the
other.  The auction just closed and I find myself the proud owner of not one
but two zigzag buttonholers.

Of course along the way I stumbled across 3 yards (meters really) of some
absolutely incredible 3"wide black and gold trim at
http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZheritagetrading  for $8.99.  When I got the
request to pay I asked if they had more.  Sure enough they had more but it
came in 9+ yard rolls, 30 Yards all together.  At $80.00 I bought it all.
When they checked it prior to mailing 5 yards proved to have flaws so they
refunded my money on that.

Then I went on to see what else they might have (they ship from LA by the
way).  They have beautiful necklaces which are made up of plaques and
pearls.  My mind said Byzantine superhumeral material.  However, $20.00 each
was a bit much so I asked if they sold the individual plaques.  No, but they
would sell me 5 damaged necklaces for $35.00.

They really do have some entirely droolworthy stuff which will make both
European and ME personas very happy.



Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey
(not affiliated except via Credit Card and happy customer)

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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Attachment Question
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I've seen some attachment manuals on ebay, why not enter it into the
search engine and see if they have any.   Kitty

> The manual for the sewing machine is what is offered here.  I actually
> have that.  What I want is the manual or more likely the leaflet that
> came with the buttonhole attachment that showed how to hook it up and
> use it.  It's not that weird but I think the instructions would probably
> save me a lot of frustration from trial and error.  I tend to do a lot
> more erring when I'm on trial.  Even when I do get it right I tend to
> forget exactly how I managed it.  I've been having "Senior Moments"
> since kindergarten!
>
> Regina
>


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Subject: [h-cost] Nesat 8-order info?
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Hi,

Someone (Beth?) posted some order information for NESAT 8 a little while 
ago. Could you possibly post it again (privately if you like), I can't find 
it any more and I really want to order it soon.

Thanks a lot,

Caithlinn
(who's just received NESAT 7 and doesn't want to be working right now, in 
order to read it....)


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Date: Wed, 25 May 2005 14:25:56 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Beth and Bob Matney <bmatney@alltel.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nesat 8-order info?
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Yes, I did. I'll email you a copy of the flyer and order form directly to you.

Who's still waiting on her copy of NESAT 7! envy, envy....

Beth

At 01:00 PM 5/25/2005, you wrote:
>Date: Wed, 25 May 2005 20:55:28 +1000
>From: "C M" <caithlinn@hotmail.com>
>Subject: [h-cost] Nesat 8-order info?
>To: h-costume@net.indra.com
>
>Hi,
>
>Someone (Beth?) posted some order information for NESAT 8 a little while
>ago. Could you possibly post it again (privately if you like), I can't find
>it any more and I really want to order it soon.
>
>Thanks a lot,
>
>Caithlinn
>(who's just received NESAT 7 and doesn't want to be working right now, in
>order to read it....)

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Umm, don'cha mean Rednecks? Though Missouri is hilly so we might have a few
hillbillies. :)
De

-----Original Message-----
And I live in the
boring ol' midwest, land of hillbillies and cornfields.

Dawn
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Ok, boring and cornfields I agree on but I think most of the
hillbillies are a little southeast of us :).

Catherine
who is also in the Kansas City area


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Subject: [h-cost] early trousers
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Marc, et al.

For some good documentation on the very early (late iron age) trouser 
finds, I recommend:
Schlabow, Karl. Textilfunde der Eisenzeit in Norddeutschland (Göttinger 
Schriften zur Vor- und Frügeschichte)100 pages Publisher: K. Wachholtz 
(1976) ISBN: 3529015156

Tarrant hits the early ones briefly, together with medieval and later finds 
(with reconstructions). She also indicates how the pieces were laid out for 
cutting.
Tarrant, Naomi. The Development of Costume. National Galleries of Scotland 
(January, 1994) Routledge Press. ISBN: 0415080185

One book that I'm trying to find is on the Bocksten man's clothing:
Nockert, Margareta.  Bockstensmannen: och hans drakt.127 pages (1985) 
Publisher: Stiftelsen Hallands länsmuseer (Varberg) ISBN: 
9185720070.  "with extensive English summary. detailed study of the 
clothing (14th C.) found on a man's body which had been buried in a bog."

Archaeologists have been wrong before and some of the earlier published 
reconstructions were a just bit (tongue firmly in cheek) speculative, but 
this is all we have to go on when the evidence gets a bit thin. I do agree 
that it should be clearly spelled out when the reconstructions get a bit 
iffy. It is only good professionalism, as any modern archaeologist or 
museum will agree. Most go to great lengths to clearly differentiate actual 
finds from reconstructions. It can be a bit challenging to locate the lab 
tests and other evidence that they based those reconstructions on though.

Beth


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From: "Elizabeth Walpole" <ewalpole@iimetro.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] white gloves
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 21:28:27 +1000
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<snip>
> If you are handling artifacts to show them to visitors, wearing gloves
> is a good idea. Same thing goes as for clean hands--do not touch face,
> hair, or other objects with the gloves. I find I have to take the gloves
> off frequently, then put them back on for handling atifacts. Get clean
> gloves as often as necessary.
>
> Kim

I think that part of the reason some museums may have changed their policies
regarding gloves is related to the issue of what you touch when you're
wearing the gloves. Studies (in the hospitality industry) have shown that
people who are working with clean bare hands are more conscious of the fact
that they have to keep them away from their face, hair etc. (sorry I can't
give you details of the study it was on the news several years ago and I
didn't really pay attention). Whereas people wearing gloves get the
impression that the gloves protect things from germs (or in this case oils)
and they are therefore not as aware of what they are doing with their hands.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]iimetro.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/

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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gustavian suit 1766
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 15:10:32 +0000
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Stunning and gorgeous!!!!  You have an amazing gift!

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> 
> Hi, 
> Now i can show you my habit francaise made excactly like a cut of Gustav 
> III's weddingsuit. It was painfull for me to wear it though, because the 
> shoulders are so tight and pressed back. But it gave the right look. 
> More pictures from the wonderfull visit at the Gustavians in Stockholm on 
> friday when i have more time. 
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/gustaviansk1766.htm 
> Suit was sewed in silk duchesse satin ( a fortune to make) and handmade 
> bobbin silver lace on the jacket. 
> 
> Bjarne 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews 
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk 
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gustavian suit 1766
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The suit looks fantastic! And to be able to wear it in such a wonderful
setting! Wow! 

I know what you mean about the narrow, pulled-back shoulders. When I was
a teen-ager doing American Rev War reenactment I enlarged the pattern for
the riding habit in Janet Arnold. I did a pretty good job of it, had all
the right measurements. I made it up in a lovely striped wool and wore it
for the first time.....and was in complete agony from the narrow, pulled
back shoulders! At first I thought I had done something wrong, but then I
did some more research (did I mention this was back in the late 70's and
18th century reasearch was still in a relatively primitive state?) and
discovered the fashionable 18th century form was very narrow, pulled-back
shoulders.....so i did the jacket correctly......but I never wore it
again because it was so painful. I hope yours is just mildly
uncomfortable because it would be such a shame not to wear something that
gorgeous anymore. Excellent job, as usual!
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Attachment Question
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I googled  "Singer Touch and Sew professional buttonholer"  and came up 
with some sites that sell the manual for the buttonholer at about 
$12.00.  One of my machine is the same machine. I experimented to use 
the button holder. It works great. I found the cam system  works far 
better than the computer  machine ones. Unfortunately  my timing keeps 
slipping so I haven't used it much.


Wanda Pease wrote:

>The manual for the sewing machine is what is offered here.  I actually have
>that.  What I want is the manual or more likely the leaflet that came with
>the buttonhole attachment that showed how to hook it up and use it.  It's
>not that weird but I think the instructions would probably save me a lot of
>frustration from trial and error.  I tend to do a lot more erring when I'm
>on trial.  Even when I do get it right I tend to forget exactly how I
>managed it.  I've been having "Senior Moments" since kindergarten!
>
>Regina
>
>  
>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
>>Behalf Of General
>>Sent: Monday, May 23, 2005 7:22 PM
>>To: Historical Costume
>>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Attachment Question
>>
>>
>>You can buy manuals from this website.  http://www.sewusa.com/
>>
>>Wanda Pease wrote:
>>
>>    
>>
>>>A couple of weeks ago I wrote that I had scored a Singer Touch
>>>      
>>>
>>and Sew with
>>    
>>
>>>cabinet for $47.25.  Well, once I had the machine I wanted some of the
>>>attachments, such as the button hole maker since there was this
>>>      
>>>
>>nifty eyelet
>>
>>    
>>
>
>_______________________________________________
>h-costume mailing list
>h-costume@mail.indra.com
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>
>
>
>  
>

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Subject: [h-cost] Textile Symposium
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I saw this on another list that I am on and it seemed like something folks
here would want to know about.  There is still space available.

Colleen


Cotton in PA German Life Symposium
Saturday, June 25, 2005, 8:30 am-4:00 pm
Schwenkfelder Library & Heritage Center
105 Seminary St.
Pennsburg PA 18073  (just 5 miles from the Quakertown exit of the PA
turnpike -- 30 minutes south of Allentown -- 1 hour or so from Philly)
www.schwenkfelder.com
We accept Visa, MC, Discover  -- call 215-679-3103 -- ask for Candace Perry
or Sandy Cooper
Sponsored, happily, by a grant from the IMLS...

$30.00 includes Catalog of the accompanying exhibition, Luncheon catered by
the Palm Schwenkfelder Church Ladies Aid and Breaktime snacks included

(a fraktur exhibition, Finding Susanna Heebner, will be also be on view at
the Center)

Cotton in PA German Life Symposium
Saturday, June 25, 2005, 8:30 am-4:00 pm

* Nancy Roan, PA German Quilting Scholar: The Fabrics in Grandmother's
Quilt. Explores the use of cotton and other fabrics used in quilts in
Southeastern PA.

* Patricia Keller, Textile Historian: The 18th & 19th Century Transition of
Household Production to Industrial Textile Consumption.  Findings from the
study of more than 3000 Lancaster County 18th and 19th century inventories
related to ownership of furnishing textiles, textile fiber, fiber
processing
tools, looms, etc.

* Susan Greene, Cornell Fellow & Costume Historian: The Use of Cotton in
19th Century Clothing.  An examination with noted textile expert Susan
Greene of printed dress fabrics used in the 19th century.

* Barbara Garrett:  The Fabulous World of Feedsacks.  Explore the history,
development, popularity and decline of these marvelous fabrics and how
they
were used in both quiltmaking and everyday life.  Feedsack memories will
also be shared.

 $30.00  Catalog, Luncheon and Breaktime snacks included
Reserve your place early!




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It's also the way many housepaints are sold--you pick your color off the 
charts in front and then the clerk goes in the back and mixes the 
pigments into a neutral base.  Run out of paint, go back for more, and 
you get a slightly different shade.

However, that still doesn't mean that Procion vendors don't develop 
color mixes on their own.  I'm wondering if anyone has ordered dyes from 
Dharma _and_ another vendor?

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

> 
>In a message dated 5/24/2005 1:25:31 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
>fran@lavoltapress.com writes:
>
>In other  words, if I order more dyes from a company other than Dharma 
>will I  actually get anything different?  
>
>
>I doubt it. I mean is Dharma manufacturing the dyes? It seems to me that  the 
>manufacturers making the dyes have a formula for each color and this is what  
>goes out to distributors.
> 
>Like with all pigments...I'm thinking when I used to buy oil  
>paint...different manufacturers have different shades of say "ultramarine  blue"....but if I 
>bought the same brand of paint, the color would be the same no  mater what 
>store I got it from.
>_______________________________________________
>
>  
>
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What/where is the dyers' list?

Fran

Sylvia Rognstad wrote:

> As I understand it, there are several basic dye colors with 
> standardized names that all the dye companies use.  The also use those 
> to mix their own shades.  There are frequent discussions of this on 
> the dyers list.  Maybe you should subscribe to it and you can check 
> the archives.
>
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>I think
>1. Picture color and monitors very in color shown.
>  
>
Damn right, but the colors don't match the print chart either.

>2. It is the same company/brand so the ingredients are the same so the
>"problem"(?) is probably on your end.
>Water type can effect dyeing. cutting back on the salt could be doing it,
>especially if you have hard water. Do you have enough dye ratio to fabric
>weight to water amount?
>  
>
Enough dye, I think.  Water is city tap water, not hard.  Do you think 
agitating the dye lots longer would make up for less salt, and if so how 
much longer?

Thanks,

Fran
www.lavoltapress.com
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From: Ann Catelli <elvestoorder@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dye Colors Question
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Perhaps the manufacturer's website:  
http://www.prochemical.com/
will have the information you seek.

PROcion dyes are made by PRO Chemical & Dye of
Somerset, MA, or so I believe.

Ann in CT

--- Sylvia Rognstad <sylrog@fone.net> wrote:
> As I understand it, there are several basic dye
> colors with 
> standardized names that all the dye companies use. 
> The also use those 
> to mix their own shades.  There are frequent
> discussions of this on the 
> dyers list.  Maybe you should subscribe to it and
> you can check the 
> archives.
> 
> Sylrog
> 
> On May 24, 2005, at 11:24 AM, Lavolta Press wrote:
> 
> > OK, so I'm merrily proceeding with dyeing a
> different lot of cotton 
> > items every 2 weeks (alternate weekends) with
> Procion MX dye.  Two 
> > questions:
> >
> > A:  Is it a general experience with Dharma Trading
> Co's dyes that the 
> > shades are both lighter and brighter than those on
> their printed 
> > chart?  For example, with their dark green I got a
> pleasant medium 
> > green, with their rust brown I got a rather bright
> rust orange, with 
> > their golden brown I got a lovely darkish gold
> (but not a brown). I 
> > did follow the instructions for washer dyeing,
> though I cut the salt 
> > down to 3 cups a load to preserve the insides of
> the washer.  I like 
> > the colors I got (except for that horrible load of
> "peach" that turned 
> > out lurid orange), but they're not what I
> expected.
> >
> > B:  There are many other companies selling Procion
> MX dyes.  Their 
> > colors look different on my monitor than Dharma's,
> and different from 
> > each other's online charts.  However, as net
> colors are usually 
> > unreliable and anyone can use any color name that
> markets the color, 
> > that's meaningless. I just sent for some of the
> other companies' print 
> > charts, but when these arrive who knows if they
> will be completely 
> > accurate either?
> > So, what I want to know is:  ARE other companies
> really carrying 
> > different color ranges?  Or does the dye
> manufacturer just send them 
> > all a table that says (for example) "to get medium
> green mix X amount 
> > of our basic yellow and X amount of our basic
> blue"?  And then the 
> > vendors all follow that table, rather than
> developing their own 
> > colors?
> > In other words, if I order more dyes from a
> company other than Dharma 
> > will I actually get anything different?  Dharma
> provides fast, 
> > efficient service, and they have some Procion MX
> colors I like.  
> > However, they don't have some colors I really
> want. I like earthtones 
> > (rather muddy colors) and their selection runs
> more to clear brights.  
> > I know I can mix my own dyes from three or so
> basics, but someone 
> > else's mix might be more reliable than my beginner
> efforts at dye 
> > mixing.
> >
> > Thanks for any info.
> >
> > Fran
> > Lavolta Press
> > http://www.lavoltapress.com

> 

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References: <d1b20c3f8e460dc6b57f1f3aadbb37d0@fone.net>
	<42938C92.20101@reddawn.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Colonial House
Date: Wed, 25 May 2005 09:14:53 +1000
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The show  was filmed in Australia last October, and shown here from January 
to early March. Some of my friends were involved in the production of the 
show, and acted as extras (redcoats, magistrates etc). They said in their 
opinion she was the most confortable with living in the early Australian 
manner of all the colonials, and an absolutely lovely person. Any decisions 
on the show will involve her family.

Glenda.



> Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
>
>> Did anyone see the story in the news yesterday about the new Colonial 
>> House tv series that is being postponed, if not cancelled, because one of 
>> the participants apparently committed suicide?  Or has this already been 
>> mentioned and I didn't notice?
>
>
> I hadn't heard anything until you mentioned it, so I went looking and 
> found this article :
>
> http://www.guardian.co.uk/australia/story/0,12070,1490737,00.html#article_continue
>
>
> Seems to be an Australian version of Colonial House, and it doesn't say 
> anything about a suicide, only that the girl went missing and was found 
> dead near her home after the series wrapped up.
>
> I imagine they'll want to re-edit and delay the premiere out of respect 
> for the family.
>
>
>
> Dawn
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> 

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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Attachment Question
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 19:28:03 -0700
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Lalah, Elizabeth and those who have been so kind about offering buttonholer
instructions.  A friend pointed me to this spot on the web:
http://www.ismacs.net/singer/manuals/professional.pdf  If you back it up
that Ismacs.net site has all kinds of manuals just for the downloading!

Elizabeth I will be keeping and printing your instructions because they will
cover the buttonholer my son inherited from my mother along with her Singer.
She decided I didn't NEED it because I had a nice new Pfaff!!!!

Wanda Pease/Regina Romsey
"You can dress up a pig,
but you can't put him on television
without his making an ass of himself

I love this list!

> -----Original Message-----
> From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Lalah
> Sent: Tuesday, May 24, 2005 9:42 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: RE: [h-cost] Attachment Question
>
>
> I am not sure if the buttonhole attachment for the Touch and Sew
> is the same as the attachment for the Model 301 slant needle.  If
> it is, I have my manual at the other house and can pick it up
> later this week and make a copy.  My 301 is a 1955 model if that
> is any help.
>
> Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender
>
>

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Does anyone have any information about importing clothing into the US 
from Australia, and at what stage the US buyer would have to pay 
customs duties?
Thanks, Aylwen

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I don't know if there has been further discussion of this while I was off-list for a week, but I've just looked at Penny's document and see that what it actually says is that part of Whitehall Palace was called the Cockpit Gate because it was on the site of a *former* cock-fighting pit. There is a part of Derby, my home city, called the Cock Pitt today for similar reasons.


Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor

>>> penny@costumegallery.com 13/05/2005 10:19 >>>
Thank you to those with the answers about, "What is a cock-pit?" When I get 
to formatting the webpages for Sarah's bio, I will find the pages discussing 
the cockpits. Then, I send some quotes to you all about the cockpits.  For 
some reason, I recall the ladies going to this place.  The book gave me the 
impression that the cock-pit was a social gathering place.  I just can't 
imagine English ladies of society going to chicken fights.  BTW, chicken 
fights are outlawed in several states of the U.S.

_____________


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dye Colors Question
Date: Wed, 25 May 2005 18:12:25 -0600
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I get dyes from both Dharma and Pro Chem.  What was the question?

Sylrog

On May 24, 2005, at 12:00 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:

> It's also the way many housepaints are sold--you pick your color off 
> the charts in front and then the clerk goes in the back and mixes the 
> pigments into a neutral base.  Run out of paint, go back for more, and 
> you get a slightly different shade.
>
> However, that still doesn't mean that Procion vendors don't develop 
> color mixes on their own.  I'm wondering if anyone has ordered dyes 
> from Dharma _and_ another vendor?
>

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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylvia@ntw.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dye Colors Question
Date: Wed, 25 May 2005 18:17:10 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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They dont make them.  I believe all the dyes are made in Europe and 
just distributed here.

On May 24, 2005, at 3:58 PM, Ann Catelli wrote:

> Perhaps the manufacturer's website:
> http://www.prochemical.com/
> will have the information you seek.
>
> PROcion dyes are made by PRO Chemical & Dye of
> Somerset, MA, or so I believe.
>
> Ann in CT
>
> --- Sylvia Rognstad <sylrog@fone.net> wrote:
>> As I understand it, there are several basic dye
>> colors with
>> standardized names that all the dye companies use.
>> The also use those
>> to mix their own shades.  There are frequent
>> discussions of this on the
>> dyers list.  Maybe you should subscribe to it and
>> you can check the
>> archives.
>>
>> Sylrog
>>
>> On May 24, 2005, at 11:24 AM, Lavolta Press wrote:
>>
>>> OK, so I'm merrily proceeding with dyeing a
>> different lot of cotton
>>> items every 2 weeks (alternate weekends) with
>> Procion MX dye.  Two
>>> questions:
>>>
>>> A:  Is it a general experience with Dharma Trading
>> Co's dyes that the
>>> shades are both lighter and brighter than those on
>> their printed
>>> chart?  For example, with their dark green I got a
>> pleasant medium
>>> green, with their rust brown I got a rather bright
>> rust orange, with
>>> their golden brown I got a lovely darkish gold
>> (but not a brown). I
>>> did follow the instructions for washer dyeing,
>> though I cut the salt
>>> down to 3 cups a load to preserve the insides of
>> the washer.  I like
>>> the colors I got (except for that horrible load of
>> "peach" that turned
>>> out lurid orange), but they're not what I
>> expected.
>>>
>>> B:  There are many other companies selling Procion
>> MX dyes.  Their
>>> colors look different on my monitor than Dharma's,
>> and different from
>>> each other's online charts.  However, as net
>> colors are usually
>>> unreliable and anyone can use any color name that
>> markets the color,
>>> that's meaningless. I just sent for some of the
>> other companies' print
>>> charts, but when these arrive who knows if they
>> will be completely
>>> accurate either?
>>> So, what I want to know is:  ARE other companies
>> really carrying
>>> different color ranges?  Or does the dye
>> manufacturer just send them
>>> all a table that says (for example) "to get medium
>> green mix X amount
>>> of our basic yellow and X amount of our basic
>> blue"?  And then the
>>> vendors all follow that table, rather than
>> developing their own
>>> colors?
>>> In other words, if I order more dyes from a
>> company other than Dharma
>>> will I actually get anything different?  Dharma
>> provides fast,
>>> efficient service, and they have some Procion MX
>> colors I like.
>>> However, they don't have some colors I really
>> want. I like earthtones
>>> (rather muddy colors) and their selection runs
>> more to clear brights.
>>> I know I can mix my own dyes from three or so
>> basics, but someone
>>> else's mix might be more reliable than my beginner
>> efforts at dye
>>> mixing.
>>>
>>> Thanks for any info.
>>>
>>> Fran
>>> Lavolta Press
>>> http://www.lavoltapress.com
>
>>
>
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From: Sylvia Rognstad <sylrog@fone.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dye Colors Question
Date: Wed, 25 May 2005 18:16:05 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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It's an email list like this one.  It's excellent for answering any dye 
questions you might have.  There are a lot of experienced dyers on it.  
Go to
https://list.emich.edu/mailman/listinfo/dyerslist
to find out about it.
Sylrog

On May 24, 2005, at 1:04 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:

> What/where is the dyers' list?
>
> Fran
>
> Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
>
>> As I understand it, there are several basic dye colors with 
>> standardized names that all the dye companies use.  The also use 
>> those to mix their own shades.  There are frequent discussions of 
>> this on the dyers list.  Maybe you should subscribe to it and you can 
>> check the archives.
>>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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Reproducible colors, particularly: 

Why are my Procion MX-from-Dharma dye lots all coming out too light and 
bright? I cut down on the uniodized salt to three cups per dye lot (my 
husband wants to preserve the washer) but otherwise followed 
instructions to the letter.

Is the amount of water a factor? It seems logical but I cannot find any 
information on the dye vendors' sites or the two books on Procion dyeing 
I bought. Just, amount of dye to weight of fabric, which I already have 
correct according to the instructions.  I am weighing the dye, not using 
measuring spoons, for more precision.

I emailed Dharma with these questions but they never responded.  I can 
understand, as they probably get thousands of questions about why dye 
jobs did not turn out as expected.

I did find out that Jacquard also manufactures some Procion dyes, and 
they sell a somewhat different but smaller range of colors than 
Pro-Chem.  At least, the color ranges of both companies that are 
available to individuals in small quantities, they probably sell many 
more colors to commercial dyers.

I have about a dozen more color lots to run (I just bought some more 
Jacquard colors), but will try running one in a color I already used 
with more salt (I talked my husband into the salt increase, he likes 
playing with the dyes) maybe more dye (I bought extra in some colors) 
and maybe agitating it longer.

Thanks,

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com



Sylvia Rognstad wrote:

> I get dyes from both Dharma and Pro Chem.  What was the question?
>
> Sylrog
>
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From: Catherine Olanich Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Nesat 8-order info?
Date: Wed, 25 May 2005 20:36:49 -0400
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On Wednesday 25 May 2005 3:25 pm, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
> Yes, I did. I'll email you a copy of the flyer and order form directly to
> you.
>
> Who's still waiting on her copy of NESAT 7! envy, envy....

The nice people at David Brown Book Company (from whom I ordered my copy of 
NESAT 7) said that they expect to have it in 3-4 weeks.

I have already ordered NESAT 8 from the source in Poland.  I wouldn't be 
surprised, somehow, if it didn't end up getting here before NESAT 7.  :-)


-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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Well, from the Dharma web site it gives the ratio of 1 cup salt per gallon 
of water; unless your washer only holds 3 gallons, you need more salt.  It 
is important.  The level of salt will not hurt the washer; it won't be in 
there for more than an hour of agitation if you want deep colors.  What is 
your husband's rationale for being concerned?
Joan

At 05:26 PM 5/25/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>Reproducible colors, particularly:
>Why are my Procion MX-from-Dharma dye lots all coming out too light and 
>bright? I cut down on the uniodized salt to three cups per dye lot (my 
>husband wants to preserve the washer) but otherwise followed instructions 
>to the letter.
>
>Is the amount of water a factor? It seems logical but I cannot find any 
>information on the dye vendors' sites or the two books on Procion dyeing I 
>bought. Just, amount of dye to weight of fabric, which I already have 
>correct according to the instructions.  I am weighing the dye, not using 
>measuring spoons, for more precision.
>
>I emailed Dharma with these questions but they never responded.  I can 
>understand, as they probably get thousands of questions about why dye jobs 
>did not turn out as expected.
>
>I did find out that Jacquard also manufactures some Procion dyes, and they 
>sell a somewhat different but smaller range of colors than Pro-Chem.  At 
>least, the color ranges of both companies that are available to 
>individuals in small quantities, they probably sell many more colors to 
>commercial dyers.
>
>I have about a dozen more color lots to run (I just bought some more 
>Jacquard colors), but will try running one in a color I already used with 
>more salt (I talked my husband into the salt increase, he likes playing 
>with the dyes) maybe more dye (I bought extra in some colors) and maybe 
>agitating it longer.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Fran
>Lavolta Press
>http://www.lavoltapress.com

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Status: RO

Bjarne,

Could you maybe check with your museum contacts and see what they 
recommend?  Also, is there a theatre that you could ask about where they 
get their costumes cleaned?  When I was looking for a good cleaner here in 
my city in the States, I asked around till I found out where the community 
and college theatres had their costumes cleaned.  The other option is if 
there is a bridal shop/wedding consultant that you could contact.
Network, always network!!

Sandy

>Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 20:30:32 +0200
>From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gustavian suit 1766
>
>During our dinner we also had lobster crayfish wich are supposed to be eaten
>with your hands and you have to crush the shell. And it bursts out
>everywhere.  That suit needs a drycleaning allready. I wonder how 
>many  bucks this wil
>cost me, because i want to use it again next month when i go to a 1700 fair
>at Gammel Estrup Castle - if i will find a cleaner that will take it?
>
>Bjarne

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Kate, I hope you enjoyed the Sarah's biography.  Now, it is completely 
online in the Library.  Since this is such a name-dropping text, I am about 
half way through making an index of the names of people and places in 
Sarah's biography. This is a long listing!!!  My hat is off to those make 
book indexes full-time.  Going page by page and documenting the names is not 
a fun job.  But the index will be useful to those doing research.  People 
will not need a subscription to view the index.

For those who suggested the next group Queens of Society for us to work 
on... we are taking those into consideration.  Thank you so much for your 
input.  It was very helpful!

After working on Sarah, Duchess of Marlborough and reading it several times, 
I have noticed some of the ladies on my Queen's listing are mentioned in 
Sarah's bio.  I have to wrap up Sarah by Friday, because I need to start on 
Madame Roland biography by Saturday.  It will be ready to format for the 
website.

I am enjoying working on the Madame Recamier's biography.  What a flirt of 
the court!!!!!  Every man that she knew wanted her portrait by Gerard!  I 
guess it was racy for the time.  It also provides some inside information on 
the Bonaparte brothers.  This portrait can be seen at:
http://www.3ace-net.co.jp/gallery/otheroldmasters/016.html

Besides this book, I have several other shorter articles about women of 
society.  Been stashing them away for years.

I keep working back and forth on the society biographies and my Fashion 
Color Database.  We are very close to releasing the database online.  It 
will be part of our Library.  By autumn we hope to release the Costume 
Encyclopedia database in time for the Halloween season.

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com 


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Queens of Society
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Status: RO

Question-why do you type them in insted of using scanning and ocr 
software?   Not being critical, just courius.  I would think there would 
be a big time savings using the scanner, but i am assuming that because 
you are not doing that, there is some drawback.
thanks, j schueller


Penny Ladnier wrote:

> Kate, I hope you enjoyed the Sarah's biography.  Now, it is completely 
> online in the Library.  Since this is such a name-dropping text, I am 
> about half way through making an index of the names of people and 
> places in Sarah's biography. This is a long listing!!!  My hat is off 
> to those make book indexes full-time.  Going page by page and 
> documenting the names is not a fun job.  But the index will be useful 
> to those doing research.  People will not need a subscription to view 
> the index.
>
> For those who suggested the next group Queens of Society for us to 
> work on... we are taking those into consideration.  Thank you so much 
> for your input.  It was very helpful!
>
> After working on Sarah, Duchess of Marlborough and reading it several 
> times, I have noticed some of the ladies on my Queen's listing are 
> mentioned in Sarah's bio.  I have to wrap up Sarah by Friday, because 
> I need to start on Madame Roland biography by Saturday.  It will be 
> ready to format for the website.
>
> I am enjoying working on the Madame Recamier's biography.  What a 
> flirt of the court!!!!!  Every man that she knew wanted her portrait 
> by Gerard!  I guess it was racy for the time.  It also provides some 
> inside information on the Bonaparte brothers.  This portrait can be 
> seen at:
> http://www.3ace-net.co.jp/gallery/otheroldmasters/016.html
>
> Besides this book, I have several other shorter articles about women 
> of society.  Been stashing them away for years.
>
> I keep working back and forth on the society biographies and my 
> Fashion Color Database.  We are very close to releasing the database 
> online.  It will be part of our Library.  By autumn we hope to release 
> the Costume Encyclopedia database in time for the Halloween season.
>
> Penny Ladnier, owner
> The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
> Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
> Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>


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From: Lynn Downward <lynndownward@gmail.com>
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Fran
the manufacturers are in the bay area and so are you. contact them directly.

http://www.jacquardproducts.com/_home/l0_index.php

LynnD

On 5/25/05, Lavolta Press <fran@lavoltapress.com> wrote:
> Reproducible colors, particularly:
> 
> Why are my Procion MX-from-Dharma dye lots all coming out too light and
> bright? I cut down on the uniodized salt to three cups per dye lot (my
> husband wants to preserve the washer) but otherwise followed
> instructions to the letter.
> 
> Is the amount of water a factor? It seems logical but I cannot find any
> information on the dye vendors' sites or the two books on Procion dyeing
> I bought. Just, amount of dye to weight of fabric, which I already have
> correct according to the instructions.  I am weighing the dye, not using
> measuring spoons, for more precision.
> 
> I emailed Dharma with these questions but they never responded.  I can
> understand, as they probably get thousands of questions about why dye
> jobs did not turn out as expected.
> 
> I did find out that Jacquard also manufactures some Procion dyes, and
> they sell a somewhat different but smaller range of colors than
> Pro-Chem.  At least, the color ranges of both companies that are
> available to individuals in small quantities, they probably sell many
> more colors to commercial dyers.
> 
> I have about a dozen more color lots to run (I just bought some more
> Jacquard colors), but will try running one in a color I already used
> with more salt (I talked my husband into the salt increase, he likes
> playing with the dyes) maybe more dye (I bought extra in some colors)
> and maybe agitating it longer.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Fran
> Lavolta Press
> http://www.lavoltapress.com
> 
> 
> 
> Sylvia Rognstad wrote:
> 
> > I get dyes from both Dharma and Pro Chem.  What was the question?
> >
> > Sylrog
> >
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Queens of Society
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J Schueller wrote:

> Question-why do you type them in insted of using scanning and ocr 
> software?   Not being critical, just courius.  I would think there would 
> be a big time savings using the scanner, but i am assuming that because 
> you are not doing that, there is some drawback.
> thanks, j schueller

I don't know about her particular situation, but I have a project where 
I'm converting old documents into PDF files.  If the scan goes well it 
takes me about five minutes per page to clean it up.  I can usually type 
the page faster, but then I have to do another proof-reading pass, so 
scanning saves a step.  Sometimes the OCR gets so confused that it's 
quicker to just type the page from scratch.

--Charlene

-- 
Artifical Flavor:  A chemical concoction with the power to make grape 
soda taste more like grapes than grapes do.  -- Bayan, Rick; The Cynic's 
Dictionary, 2002
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Queens of Society
Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 14:18:33 -0400
Organization: The Costume Gallery
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The reason we type all of our work instead of using OCR is because in older 
books type bleeds through to the previous page, or stains on the pages, etc. 
are picked up on the OCR software and creates character that are not there. 
On modern books these problems are not as much but with books that are 100+ 
years old it is a big problem.  It takes more time to correct the junk 
picked up by OCR than to type it.  If you could see the original condition 
of some of the items that we use you would understand.

The reason we do not scan the pages and put them in Acrobat is again because 
we want to present a clean presentation with a good font size for people to 
read.  One of the things that people have commented on for years about our 
website is that it is very friendly to people with visual problems.  All of 
text is in bold letters.  A young person with excellent vision might not 
think about it, but someone like my wearing multi-focal lens, like me, 
appreciate it.  I also have a mother who is partly blind and can understand 
the need for a bolder and nice font size.  We also try to stay away for 
certain color combinations to assist people from having migraines color 
triggers.... I suffer from that.

BTW, I can't stand to read items in Acrobat.  I generally close out webpages 
in that software.  I just do not like their format.

When I visited with the curator of women's studies at the Library of 
Congress, she highly commended us for typing the text and cleaning our 
images on the website.  She said so many people just scan items and place 
them on the web, including the LOC, and do not take the time to properly 
present the material.  We talked a long time about this.

A good example is the Illustrated London News that we present online... the 
originals are in poor condition, print bleeding and the type set is 
ultra-small, like minus five. The size of the paper is larger than our 
scanners.  I sent an article to two different people to type.  The first 
typist sent it back because the type set was too small for her.  The last 
person was my best typist, 100+ words a minute.  Afterwards, the typist ask 
that I not send her material from that newspaper for a l-o-n-g time.  The 
text is so small that it would give anyone a headache.  And I had enlarged 
it for her.  The formatting for the original articles is really weird. 
These articles in the paper is like piecing together a puzzle.

Again, another one of my best typist (100+ WPM) is working on the Queens of 
Society book.  She has typed entire books for me in a week.  She is on her 
second week on her section of the Queens book.  I had a very  hard time, 
just reading the book because of the text size and the bleeding through 
problem.  The presentation in the book is also hard to follow... VERY 
lengthy pararagraphs. Some paragraphs are 1+ pages long.  I break the 
paragraphs to make it easier for the reader to follow through when reading. 
Believe me it is a lot easier to read on our website than trying to read 
this book in its original format.  My book was originally published in 1860 
as one book of 400+ pages.  It was republished in 1900 in two volumes of 
400+ pages each.

We really do not mind typing the publications if it encourages a person to 
read by providing a better formatting and font sizes.  Some projects like 
the Queens or Illustrated London Times are worth the trouble.  I actually 
process the text better in my mind if I type it.  A trick that I learned in 
college and gave me many good grades on tests.

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com 


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu May 26 15:40:09 2005
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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Hi,
I uploaded pictures of the Gustavian party.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/springparty.htm

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dye Colors Question
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Fran wrote:
>I emailed Pro-Chem (I have not received the Jacquard brand dyes yet so
>have not tried them), Dharma, etc. and gotten no response. I'm sure they
>don't want to answer questions from hundreds of people about why their
>dye lots have not turned out.  That would be incredibly time consuming.
>
>It's really no big deal.  I just assumed that as people on this group
>have discussed dyeing from time to time, someone would no.  I've already
>got a plan for rerunning one of the dye lots, so I don't really need any
>more info. It's experiement time.

Why not phone Dharma directly? I'm not sure why you assume that 
hundreds of people are having problems and they are avoiding you. 
After all, you didn't actually follow the directions.

I've spoken with plenty of people who have been quite satisfied with 
their products, and i'm sure Dharma would be happy to help you 
resolve your problem.

Or perhaps the individual who answers e-mail questions about dyes is 
on vacation.

Why assume malice on their part?

Anahita
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Just amazing pictures.  I hope you had a great time.
      -Helen/Aidan

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2005 3:38 PM
Subject: [h-cost] spring party event


> Hi,
> I uploaded pictures of the Gustavian party.
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/springparty.htm
> 
> Bjarne
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/
> 
> _______________________________________________
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dye Colors Question
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>
> Why not phone Dharma directly? I'm not sure why you assume that 
> hundreds of people are having problems and they are avoiding you. 
> After all, you didn't actually follow the directions.

I'm not assuming "malice" on Dharma's part.  However, they have not 
answered my email and I didn't really expect them to.  As a business, it 
would be crazy for them to answer every dyeing question that came their 
way.  They sell dyes, not consulting. 

As for my posting here, why don't the other people who have been posting 
dye questions on h-costume call a dye vendor?  Why don't the people who 
post basic sewing questions on h-costume all look up the information in 
a sewing manual?  Why don't the people who post costuming questions go 
figure out how to do it for themselves, instead of posting to 
h-costume?  Why don't the people who want the titles of books or 
information on how to get them go look up the info on the net, or call a 
research librarian? 

But if no one asked qusetions on h-costume we wouldn't have much of a 
list, would we?

I don't see that it's any problem that I--among others--have posted 
questions about dyeing.  Some people have given me useful ideas, others 
have not been interested in this particular discussion.  I don't expect 
the latter to answer my questions.  There is no pressure on you to do it.

Particularly as, in a previous message, I have already thanked everyone 
and said that I've gotten all the information I want off the list.  I'm 
not closing the discussion, as anyone else who wants to discuss dyeing 
is welcome to do it. I've just already said, for my part, fine, and thanks.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Dye Colors Question
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I emailed Pro-Chem (I have not received the Jacquard brand dyes yet so 
have not tried them), Dharma, etc. and gotten no response. I'm sure they 
don't want to answer questions from hundreds of people about why their 
dye lots have not turned out.  That would be incredibly time consuming.

It's really no big deal.  I just assumed that as people on this group 
have discussed dyeing from time to time, someone would no.  I've already 
got a plan for rerunning one of the dye lots, so I don't really need any 
more info. It's experiement time.

Thanks to everyone,

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com

Lynn Downward wrote:

>Fran
>the manufacturers are in the bay area and so are you. contact them directly.
>
>http://www.jacquardproducts.com/_home/l0_index.php
>  
>
>  
>
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References: <s29476b5.031@CSV6.derby.ac.uk>	<003c01c561ab$03f22570$0200a8c0@yourw04gtxld67><4295A22C.1000708@optonline.net>
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Subject: OCR was: Re: [h-cost] Queens of Society
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>> Question-why do you type them in insted of using scanning and ocr 
>> software?

> Sometimes the OCR gets so confused that it's quicker to just type the page 
> from scratch.

I think it depends hugely on the quality of scanner and especially on the 
OCR software you're using. I used to re-type everything by hand because it 
was so annoying to try to correct improperly recognized text. But my parents 
bought a brand new scanner, complete with OCR software, and it works like a 
charm! I've scanned pages of books (most of the times it doesn't seem to 
mind the distortion that occurs when the book is not totally flat against 
the scanner) and also rumpled newspaper articles. The only things it didn't 
recognize were fractions and inch symbols. It recognized titles, different 
fonts, italics, larger-font boxed-in abstracts in the middle of the 
newspaper article, it also formatted the columns correctly. It also corrects 
the recognition errors itself by using a dictionary - and you can add words 
to the dictionary too, if they're not already in there. I used to thing OCR 
wasn't worth it...

If you've got really weird fonts it might not perform so well, but it's been 
a real time-saver for me so far. 
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Madame Recamier
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Penny:

> I am enjoying working on the Madame Recamier's biography.  What a
>> flirt of the court!!!!!  Every man that she knew wanted her portrait
>> by Gerard!  I guess it was racy for the time.  It also provides some
>> inside information on the Bonaparte brothers.  This portrait can be
>> seen at:
>> http://www.3ace-net.co.jp/gallery/otheroldmasters/016.html
>> 

For the time? I'd say that was pretty racy now! In a classy way, of course
-- we're not talking Paris Hilton. I just love that dress. It's so
incredibly impractical.

Gail Finke

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Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 19:08:46 -0400
From: J Schueller <jaurbik@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Queens of Society
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Thank you for a very good explanation. 
j schueller

Penny Ladnier wrote:

> The reason we type all of our work instead of using OCR is because in 
> older books type bleeds through to the previous page, or stains on the 
> pages, etc. are picked up on the OCR software and creates character 
> that are not there. On modern books these problems are not as much but 
> with books that are 100+ years old it is a big problem.  It takes more 
> time to correct the junk picked up by OCR than to type it.  If you 
> could see the original condition of some of the items that we use you 
> would understand.
>
> The reason we do not scan the pages and put them in Acrobat is again 
> because we want to present a clean presentation with a good font size 
> for people to read.  One of the things that people have commented on 
> for years about our website is that it is very friendly to people with 
> visual problems.  All of text is in bold letters.  A young person with 
> excellent vision might not think about it, but someone like my wearing 
> multi-focal lens, like me, appreciate it.  I also have a mother who is 
> partly blind and can understand the need for a bolder and nice font 
> size.  We also try to stay away for certain color combinations to 
> assist people from having migraines color triggers.... I suffer from 
> that.
>
> BTW, I can't stand to read items in Acrobat.  I generally close out 
> webpages in that software.  I just do not like their format.
>
> When I visited with the curator of women's studies at the Library of 
> Congress, she highly commended us for typing the text and cleaning our 
> images on the website.  She said so many people just scan items and 
> place them on the web, including the LOC, and do not take the time to 
> properly present the material.  We talked a long time about this.
>
> A good example is the Illustrated London News that we present 
> online... the originals are in poor condition, print bleeding and the 
> type set is ultra-small, like minus five. The size of the paper is 
> larger than our scanners.  I sent an article to two different people 
> to type.  The first typist sent it back because the type set was too 
> small for her.  The last person was my best typist, 100+ words a 
> minute.  Afterwards, the typist ask that I not send her material from 
> that newspaper for a l-o-n-g time.  The text is so small that it would 
> give anyone a headache.  And I had enlarged it for her.  The 
> formatting for the original articles is really weird. These articles 
> in the paper is like piecing together a puzzle.
>
> Again, another one of my best typist (100+ WPM) is working on the 
> Queens of Society book.  She has typed entire books for me in a week.  
> She is on her second week on her section of the Queens book.  I had a 
> very  hard time, just reading the book because of the text size and 
> the bleeding through problem.  The presentation in the book is also 
> hard to follow... VERY lengthy pararagraphs. Some paragraphs are 1+ 
> pages long.  I break the paragraphs to make it easier for the reader 
> to follow through when reading. Believe me it is a lot easier to read 
> on our website than trying to read this book in its original format.  
> My book was originally published in 1860 as one book of 400+ pages.  
> It was republished in 1900 in two volumes of 400+ pages each.
>
> We really do not mind typing the publications if it encourages a 
> person to read by providing a better formatting and font sizes.  Some 
> projects like the Queens or Illustrated London Times are worth the 
> trouble.  I actually process the text better in my mind if I type it.  
> A trick that I learned in college and gave me many good grades on tests.
>
> Penny Ladnier, owner
> The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
> Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
> Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
>


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Thu May 26 21:04:37 2005
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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] spring party event
Date: Fri, 27 May 2005 01:03:19 +0000
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WOW!!!  Gorgeous *everything*!!!  I wish I coulda been there!  Now I want to make some of those gowns!!!!!

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> Hi, 
> I uploaded pictures of the Gustavian party. 
> http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/springparty.htm 
> 
> Bjarne 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Leif og Bjarne Drews 
> www.my-drewscostumes.dk 
> 
> http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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It is SOOO beautiful. Splendid work!!!!!!

		
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What wonderful garb, and how nice that everyone made such obvious efforts to be correctly dressed.  I wish there was somewhere here that people did that.  And of all the elegant costumes, yours is the stand out best of the bunch.  You have a talent that the rest of us can only strive for.  Thanks for sharing!!

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:

From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 21:38:45 +0200
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: [h-cost] spring party event

Hi,
I uploaded pictures of the Gustavian party.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/springparty.htm

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/

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Gail:

Let us know if you ever get the biog published. The only recent
full-length biog on Recamier is in French. I'm sure you also know of the
slightly earlier portrait of her by David.

I seem to recall(correct me if I'm wrong), but during the short-lived
Peace of Amiens, when the English of financial means flocked to Paris,
and their French counterparts descended upon London, Julia Recamier
brought her daring fashion sense to the English ton and caused quite a
scandalous stir.

For all their apparent simplicity, those sheer white muslin gowns and
cashmere shawls were really quite expensive. Both English and French
women had to pay high prices plus import taxes and/or the higher costs
of obtaining illegally smuggled from India cashmere and muslin items.
Napoleon was known to have ordered Josephine and her daughter not to
wear their muslin gowns, and upon occaision, order some gowns destroyed.
To him, it was a French economic issue: imported muslin gowns took jobs
away from French silk weavers. 
Few of those white muslin dresses survive today. Many of those costly
shawls were recycled into other items from gowns and mantles to pillow
covers when fashion changed. And a fashionable woman like Recamier or
Josephine Bonaparte would probably have had to had more white muslin
dresses than a half-generation earlier, where sturdier colored fabrics
would last longer--it is a trial even today to keep white white. I'm
sure you also recall the chapter in Austen's "Northanger Abbey", where
Henry Tilney relates to Elizabeth the problems and perils of purchasing
good quality imported muslin, that could fray or worse than washed. A
new muslin gown that needed washing could quickly end up as no more than
pocket handkerchiefs. Austen also related in her personal correspondence
that subjecting muslins to dyeing, could literally destroy the fabric.

Cindy Abel

And to wear sandals probably implied that one could afford servants so
one wouldn't have to walk much and devote a lot of time and budget on
foot care. In the end, simple "Greek sandals" were probably as pricey as
fashionable footwear of the Ancient Regime

-----Original Message-----
From: h-costume-bounces@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bounces@indra.com]
On Behalf Of Gail & Scott Finke
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2005 2:49 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Re: Madame Recamier

Penny:

> I am enjoying working on the Madame Recamier's biography.  What a
>> flirt of the court!!!!!  Every man that she knew wanted her portrait 
>> by Gerard!  I guess it was racy for the time.  It also provides some 
>> inside information on the Bonaparte brothers.  This portrait can be 
>> seen at:
>> http://www.3ace-net.co.jp/gallery/otheroldmasters/016.html
>> 

For the time? I'd say that was pretty racy now! In a classy way, of
course
-- we're not talking Paris Hilton. I just love that dress. It's so
incredibly impractical.

Gail Finke

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Subject: [h-cost] Trip
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We are thinking of a trip to Scandinavia (Denmark, Norway, Sweden) late 
this summer. What museums and sites would you recommend for someone 
interested in early to medieval (pre-17th century) history, textiles and 
costuming? Viking ship museum,...

Thanks for any suggestions.

Beth

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Queens of Society
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Replying to the several messages...

I have two OCR programs and a large professional grade scanner.  I really 
love my scanner because it can capture at high resolutions and very 
detailed.  I have tried the professional OCRs software and had the same 
problem on both.  I am very hesitate to waste any more money on the software 
with the fear of getting the same results as the two programs that I have. 
I might try it again someday, if there was a few trial offer.

My ladies really do enjoy the typing.  I type on a laptop while watching TV. 
That's my resting time.  After that initial typing, I move the files to the 
big computer.  Don't ask how many computers we have... I am in a house full 
of computer geeks, lots of computers in the house. LOL! We don't have 
computers in the bathrooms!

The Queens indexes that I mentioned are not in the books.  I am creating an 
index per Society Queen.  So if someone is doing research on a particular 
person, they will know beforehand if that person is included/mentioned in 
the bio.  These bios are a lot more than just about the featured person.  I 
was working on Madame Recamier's bio last night and it had two pages just 
about one artist.

Charlene, I wholeheartly agree with you.  I would rather type and edit once, 
then OCR, edit slowly the OCR for mistakes it made, and then edit again. 
The Queens book is an exception to our normal process.  The addition of the 
index is making the process slowly, because of having to pull out the names, 
places and events (NPE).  Then put the names in another document 
alphabetically with a link to the pages that the NPE are mentioned.  When I 
get the first one completed, I will let you know where the link is for a 
look-see.

Gail, can you please send me your nice message that you sent to the list. I 
accidentally deleted it. As I mentioned before, I am just now exploring 
European history. Its new to me!  I like to know the background of what was 
occurring in history when working with these Queens.

As for the white muslin dresses... an exhibit I worked on at the Valentine 
Museum had a wedding dress like what you described.  There were several in 
the collection in very nice condition.  I believe I have seen these dresses 
at Colonial Williams burg too a few years ago.  I can't recall if I took a 
photo of the Valentine dress.  I have to go through my photos of the 
exhibits that I worked on in a couple of weeks.  If I do have a photo of it, 
I will put it online.  I know Jennie Chancey took several photos of this 
dress.

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com 


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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Men's Flemish peasant garb
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J-
 
May I suggest another painting by Brueghel, if you can get a good copy of it. It's called The Haymakers, and it shows a bunch of men coming in from the fields, all wearing their undershirts and hose. The book I just bought shows so much detail that you can actually see the seam lines on both types of garments. 
 
Also, try this page: http://houseofpung.net/clothes/flemish/man/index.html
 
Hope this helps,
 
Tea Rose 
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Trip
Date: Fri, 27 May 2005 20:21:34 -0700
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Have you checked the Drachenwald web site?  You might want to get in touch
with some of the chatelaines of the local groups and see what they might
recommend.  Visby is always a Blast!

Regina Romsey
OL, OP, Drachenwald/East, Now Proud Resident of the Laurel Kingdom of AnTir
and the Pacific NorthWet
>
> We are thinking of a trip to Scandinavia (Denmark, Norway, Sweden) late
> this summer. What museums and sites would you recommend for someone
> interested in early to medieval (pre-17th century) history, textiles and
> costuming? Viking ship museum,...
>
> Thanks for any suggestions.
>
> Beth
>

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Subject: [h-cost] A Movie material question
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Since this board has so many knowledgeable people on
it, I'm posting this query.
 Does anyone here know,for sure, what materials
comprised the black "wedding gown" the character Lily
wore in the movie "legend"?
 Since it was a Uk production, I thought some of our
folk may have had an idea on it.
Though the dress is not a "historic "item, the fairy
tale aspect is a part of all history. Anyone have a
clue? 


		
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Sat May 28 04:07:20 2005
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Hi,
There is the Roskilde Cathedral where all the kings and queens are burried.
At Roskilde also the viking museum, and you should go to the local history 
museum there as well. I think they have the new replica of Margrethe I's 
gown.
Frederiksborg Castle in Hillerřd has the largest collection of portraits in 
the country and also Rosenborg Pallace in Copenhagen.
There is an old viking city "reconstrukted" called Fyrkat.

Bjarne



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Beth and Bob Matney" <bmatney@alltel.net>
To: <h-costume@net.indra.com>
Sent: Friday, May 27, 2005 8:29 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Trip


> We are thinking of a trip to Scandinavia (Denmark, Norway, Sweden) late 
> this summer. What museums and sites would you recommend for someone 
> interested in early to medieval (pre-17th century) history, textiles and 
> costuming? Viking ship museum,...
>
> Thanks for any suggestions.
>
> Beth
>
> _______________________________________________
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Beth and Bob Matney wrote:

> We are thinking of a trip to Scandinavia (Denmark, Norway, Sweden) late 
> this summer. What museums and sites would you recommend

I went to Oslo several years ago and had a super time.  I've got a 
travel diary on my website which might give you some ideas:

http://www.virtue.to/articles/Oslo.html

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"Want to see my Brass Rubbings?"
     "Mediaevalist on Board" license plate frames
           at http://www.cafepress.com/virtueventures
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From: J Schueller <jaurbik@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Men's Flemish peasant garb
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I am going to have to look that painting up in a print source, I am not 
haveing much luck finding it on the web,  but thank you, I need all the 
help I can get!   And the website you pointed to is quite cool, thank you!

jordana

tearoses@aol.com wrote:

>J-
> 
>May I suggest another painting by Brueghel, if you can get a good copy of it. It's called The Haymakers, and it shows a bunch of men coming in from the fields, all wearing their undershirts and hose. The book I just bought shows so much detail that you can actually see the seam lines on both types of garments. 
> 
>Also, try this page: http://houseofpung.net/clothes/flemish/man/index.html
> 
>Hope this helps,
> 
>Tea Rose 
>_______________________________________________
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>
>  
>


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From: "Susan B. Farmer" <sfarmer@goldsword.com>
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Subject: Found it!  Re: [h-cost] Re: Men's Flemish peasant garb
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Quoting J Schueller <jaurbik@optonline.net>:

> I am going to have to look that painting up in a print source, I am not
> haveing much luck finding it on the web,  but thank you, I need all the
> help I can get!   And the website you pointed to is quite cool, thank you!
>
I found it!  you got me curious -- I had to do a regular google search 
and found
a site "hayinart.com" and it's there.  You can search for artist -- here's the
link to the Bruegel paintings that they have online.  It's a monster 
link so ...

http://tinyurl.com/cy8md

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Quoting J Schueller <jaurbik@optonline.net>:

> I am going to have to look that painting up in a print source, I am not
> haveing much luck finding it on the web,  but thank you, I need all the
> help I can get!   And the website you pointed to is quite cool, thank you!
>
And *quite* a few nice detail shots too!

Susan
-----
Susan Farmer
sfarmer@goldsword.com
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Subject: [h-cost] Metallic Lace-Earliest?
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Hi all you Lacers out there.  What is the earliest evidence you have 
seen of any kind of lace made from metallic threads?

Thanks, Sg
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Subject: [h-cost] Repost: madame recamier
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Cindy: I'm not doing a biography of Madame Recamier, Penny is.

Penny: I didn't post that cool reply, Cindy did. Here it is:


> Let us know if you ever get the biog published. The only recent
> full-length biog on Recamier is in French. I'm sure you also know of the
> slightly earlier portrait of her by David.
> 
> I seem to recall(correct me if I'm wrong), but during the short-lived
> Peace of Amiens, when the English of financial means flocked to Paris,
> and their French counterparts descended upon London, Julia Recamier
> brought her daring fashion sense to the English ton and caused quite a
> scandalous stir.
> 
> For all their apparent simplicity, those sheer white muslin gowns and
> cashmere shawls were really quite expensive. Both English and French
> women had to pay high prices plus import taxes and/or the higher costs
> of obtaining illegally smuggled from India cashmere and muslin items.
> Napoleon was known to have ordered Josephine and her daughter not to
> wear their muslin gowns, and upon occaision, order some gowns destroyed.
> To him, it was a French economic issue: imported muslin gowns took jobs
> away from French silk weavers.
> Few of those white muslin dresses survive today. Many of those costly
> shawls were recycled into other items from gowns and mantles to pillow
> covers when fashion changed. And a fashionable woman like Recamier or
> Josephine Bonaparte would probably have had to had more white muslin
> dresses than a half-generation earlier, where sturdier colored fabrics
> would last longer--it is a trial even today to keep white white. I'm
> sure you also recall the chapter in Austen's "Northanger Abbey", where
> Henry Tilney relates to Elizabeth the problems and perils of purchasing
> good quality imported muslin, that could fray or worse than washed. A
> new muslin gown that needed washing could quickly end up as no more than
> pocket handkerchiefs. Austen also related in her personal correspondence
> that subjecting muslins to dyeing, could literally destroy the fabric.
> 
> Cindy Abel
> 
> And to wear sandals probably implied that one could afford servants so
> one wouldn't have to walk much and devote a lot of time and budget on
> foot care. In the end, simple "Greek sandals" were probably as pricey as
> fashionable footwear of the Ancient Regime

Gail


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Hi, Melissa. I must apologise that I didn't send you a note right away, 
but I have been working crazy hours this week and hadn't gotten a chance 
to get online. I got your DVDs a few days back, and everything ius fine. 
I always wanted to see "The Advocate", so I watched it right off. Thank 
You again for the films. Yours, Mike Tartaglio


>  
>
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16th century Europe.  In both extant textiles and in portraits....
--sue

Wicked Frau wrote:
> Hi all you Lacers out there.  What is the earliest evidence you have 
> seen of any kind of lace made from metallic threads?
> 
> Thanks, Sg

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Subject: [h-cost] Question regarding renaissance
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I apologize for the beginner level of the question here, but Renaissance
is not really my period, and I'm hoping someone more experienced can
give me advice.

Regarding farthingales: Can a well-dressed middle class woman go without
one, or is that strictly a peasant-class thing to do? 

Having been to many ren faires and SCA events, many people's
farthingales tend to look wrong, at least to my eyes. Mostly too short
and the skirt stretched too tightly over them. 

If one simply must wear a hoop, how does one get the graceful look of
Shakespeare in Love or Elizabeth?

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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandap@hevanet.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Question regarding renaissance
Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 21:06:30 -0700
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Sandra,

	It's my understanding that farthingales were used for only about 50 years
in the 1600's at least in England and France and Italy.  Spain may have used
them longer.  Many of the Henry VIII gowns seem to have used petticoats
instead.  Bum rolls may actually be what we are seeing in other portraits.

	I suspect that one of the reasons the farthingales you see look "wrong" is
that they are frequently modern wedding hoops (guilty as charged) which are
the wrong shape.  Another common problem is that the person skimped on the
skirt fabric.  My answer to getting the graceful look of the Shakespeare in
Love gown is Enough Fabric in the Skirt!  Don't Skimp!  Also, line the skirt
to give it heft.  The later 16th century Spanish gowns do seem to fit the
farthingale almost exactly in a smooth cone.
	Not using enough fabric and linings is endemic throughout the SCA and Renn
Faire goers.  The number of T tunics I've seen with nowhere near enough
fabric to make them flow gracefully so they look like a sack tied in the
middle is sad.


Regina
P.S.  I just bought some Indian necklaces from heritagetrading on E-bay that
are going to make perfect billaments for a French hood!  Happy Dance!
>
> I apologize for the beginner level of the question here, but Renaissance
> is not really my period, and I'm hoping someone more experienced can
> give me advice.
>
> Regarding farthingales: Can a well-dressed middle class woman go without
> one, or is that strictly a peasant-class thing to do?
>
> Having been to many ren faires and SCA events, many people's
> farthingales tend to look wrong, at least to my eyes. Mostly too short
> and the skirt stretched too tightly over them.
>
> If one simply must wear a hoop, how does one get the graceful look of
> Shakespeare in Love or Elizabeth?
>

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question regarding renaissance
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At 09:50 PM 5/28/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>I apologize for the beginner level of the question here, but Renaissance
>is not really my period, and I'm hoping someone more experienced can
>give me advice.
>
>Regarding farthingales: Can a well-dressed middle class woman go without
>one, or is that strictly a peasant-class thing to do?
>
>Having been to many ren faires and SCA events, many people's
>farthingales tend to look wrong, at least to my eyes. Mostly too short
>and the skirt stretched too tightly over them.
>
>If one simply must wear a hoop, how does one get the graceful look of
>Shakespeare in Love or Elizabeth?

One key to having your skirts look right is to have enough fabric in them; 
my overskirts have 3 or 4 lengths of 45-inch wide fabric pleated into the 
waistband.  My farthingale has a total of 6 hoops (it started out with 4, 
but I added to it).  Plus I wear a full underskirt with forepart, not just 
a forepart pinned to the farthingale.  Don't try to have a really large 
farthingale; work on sizing it to look best on you.  You need enough room 
to be able to walk without stepping on the front of your skirt (and without 
having to pick up the skirt).  This also means that you can't take really 
long strides.  I have one hoop at approximately knee-level, which allows me 
to "lead" with my knee, gently lifting my skirts without using my hands, 
while walking up slopes or, given time to do it gracefully, up stairs.  The 
only time I have trouble dealing with my skirts is when the wind is blowing 
very hard and blows the entire set of skirts against my legs, but at that 
point everyone is having trouble <g>.

Joan Jurancich

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From: Adele de Maisieres <ladyadele@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question regarding renaissance
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Status: RO

Wanda Pease wrote:

>Sandra,
>
>	It's my understanding that farthingales were used for only about 50 years
>in the 1600's at least in England and France and Italy.  Spain may have used
>them longer.  Many of the Henry VIII gowns seem to have used petticoats
>instead.  Bum rolls may actually be what we are seeing in other portraits.
>
>	I suspect that one of the reasons the farthingales you see look "wrong" 
>

<snip!>

>Another common problem is that the person skimped on the
>skirt fabric.  My answer to getting the graceful look of the Shakespeare in
>Love gown is Enough Fabric in the Skirt!  Don't Skimp!  
>

Yup-- I've seen more than one skirt over a farthingale where the 
farthingale is too big or the skirt is too small...
I suspect that the skirt needs to be at least 5% greater circumference 
greater than the farthingale, and for some styles much, much more.

>Also, line the skirt
>to give it heft.  
>

In fact, do it regardless of whether you mean to wear a fathingale.  It 
will make your skirts hang better, and look a hell of a lot nicer.  
Also, lined garments wear a lot better.

>	Not using enough fabric and linings is endemic throughout the SCA and Renn
>Faire goers.  The number of T tunics I've seen with nowhere near enough
>fabric to make them flow gracefully so they look like a sack tied in the
>middle is sad.
>  
>

Preach it, sister!


Adele d'M
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> >Regarding farthingales: Can a well-dressed middle class woman go without
> >one, or is that strictly a peasant-class thing to do?

There is a sketch of middle class women in very narrow dresses, and Drea
Leed recreated one of them:
http://costume.dm.net/wardrobe/gownkirtle.html It's unlikely a farthingale
as we think of them would be worn under it. Maybe a roped petticoat.
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth_I.htm
Elizabeth I wears a narrow gown when she meets the Dutch Ambassadors
(fifth frm the bottom.)

http://www.marileecody.com/eliz1-images.html
There are a few more portraits of Elizabeth wearing a narrow gown, usually a
surcoat.


> >Having been to many ren faires and SCA events, many people's
> >farthingales tend to look wrong, at least to my eyes. Mostly too short
> >and the skirt stretched too tightly over them.


http://costume.dm.net/fabuse.html
Good starting point for deciding how much fabric you need.

My problem is that too many people use straight widths of fabric so they
just don't lay well on the extreme and wide cone shaped hoops.. . Every*
extant skirt prior to 1600 and all the patterns in the tailor's books are
shaped. Gored is most common, half circle underskirts appear in  Alcega. Not
to say there were absolutely no un-shaped skirts, but the evidence weighs
not in their favour. Except in other lands;)
Even when straight lengths are used, there are triangular or trapezoid gores
at the sides of them.

http://www.vertetsable.com/research_f41.htm
Nice example of shaping, there are more patterns on the site, so have a hunt
in there as well.

Hoops that were too short did happen in the period, I found a great image of
one:
http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/MI08161c14a.jpg
I am not sure of the context, but being by a German artist, then it was
possibly some sort of comment on the hooped styles.


In most cases there is smoothness, least at the front, pleats happen at the
sides in many instances but the skirts are still amost certainly shaped over
the stark cones of the farthingales.
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/

http://sayaespanola.glittersweet.com
And Spanish really should fit firmly over the farthingale frame.
For my Spanish gown with a long train and huge sleeves, I used just under 8m
of 112cm wide fabric. As much fabric went into the sleeves as the skirt.
I think I could have actually used less in my skirts, but I want the train
to be able to move more freely than it would have using less fabric.
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/sca/valois.htm
I'm going to replace the lining of the sleeves as soon as I can afford the
beautiful silk brocade I spotted in a store..


So my recommendation would be to use a layout from Alcega and pleat the
fabric no further in than side front, depending on the exact style you want
to go for. You get good yardage in the hem without bulking at the top, yet
still enough room for pleats. I decided to do this by using the front length
measurement as my actual measurement and the angles of the sides of the
skirt then making all the other measurements proportional for my height. It
worked very well , giving a good amount of flare without using a tremendous
amount of fabric. My skirt measures 150cm from hem to waist


As for farthingales... grab a copy of Corsets and Crinolines and read the
contemporary text from the earlier chapters that deal with the 16thC. There
is a lot of whalebone that went into the hoops. It suggests a couple of
things: more than one "layer" of boning was in each channel and that there
were many hoops used. The more hoops you use the smoother the cone, so long
as you get the boning right. Mine were made from willow wands which was just
annoying and lumpy. Willow caning would have been better if I could buy it
preshaped and in a continuous coil. As it is, the next set of hoops will be
plastic boning as I found more references to whale bone than cane. I made 7
hoops. They came to just above my instep, and with the firmness of the
velveteen backed with cotton twill plus the hem guarded with heavy wool and
a gathered petticoat underneath, the hem did not drop over the last hoops.


michaela de bruce
http://glittersweet.com
Happier in the Germanic garb because of all the fabric you get to wear and
no hoops;)
*PoF, History of Costume by Payne etc etc.



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Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 03:24:48 -0500
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mn.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Metallic Lace-Earliest?
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Status: RO

That is an interesting question and depends on your definition of 
"lace."  If you mean bobbin lace or reticella-type needlelace, the earliest 
we can prove to is 16th century.  If you're talking about draw-thread work 
or passemaine/passementerie, it gets a lot hazier...I attended an 
interesting paper at Kalamazoo about 5 years ago on some passementerie type 
work found in a Viking grave.  Santina Levey's "Lace: A History" (ISBN: 
090128615X )is a useful source to check for sure.

Cheers,
Danielle

At 09:40 AM 5/28/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>Hi all you Lacers out there.  What is the earliest evidence you have seen 
>of any kind of lace made from metallic threads?
>
>Thanks, Sg

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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberg <dannw@mn.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question regarding renaissance
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Greetings,

As to the question of middle-class women not wearing farthingales, the 
short answer is yes.  This de Heere drawing gives a good example:
http://costume.dm.net/gallery/images/middle-wmn.gif

Don't forget, even middle-class and upper-class women had some work to do 
and it isn't practical or logical to wear what one would wear to court 
(i.e. full court gown with farthingale, etc...) to supervise the linen 
inventory or soap-making, or whatever it is they had to do.

As for the practical aspect, Michaela gave you a good starting point.

Cheers,
Danielle

At 09:50 PM 5/28/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>I apologize for the beginner level of the question here, but Renaissance
>is not really my period, and I'm hoping someone more experienced can
>give me advice.
>
>Regarding farthingales: Can a well-dressed middle class woman go without
>one, or is that strictly a peasant-class thing to do?
>
>Having been to many ren faires and SCA events, many people's
>farthingales tend to look wrong, at least to my eyes. Mostly too short
>and the skirt stretched too tightly over them.
>
>If one simply must wear a hoop, how does one get the graceful look of
>Shakespeare in Love or Elizabeth?

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: [h-cost] angle of skirt
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Hi,
I have ben studying the revolution of fashion book, and i am a little 
confused.
Overskirts of dresses seems to me to be "angle tilted" a little to the 
sides.
I just want to hear others oppinion as i am going to cut out fabrics for 
embroidering panels of overskirt.
I plan to place my pattern on the square angle, and then tilt the skirt a 
little when i am draping it to the bodice.
Is this the right way to do it?
I am especially thinking about the dress on page 69 in the taschen version 
of Kyoto Museum. I think it clearly is to be seen as the fabric is striped.
I have finally finished the long strip of trimming i am using for the 
bullions. It is edged with tiny tiny gold spangles and has taken me such a 
long time to make. Now comes the fun part with the chenille flowers.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Metallic Lace-Earliest?
Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 12:54:37 +0200
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Hi Saragrace.
Oldest piece i have seen in Denmark is on a portrait from 1580. The kings 
sister. Gold lace on black bodice. But i am sure that metallic lace is as 
old as bobbin lace itself.
First written proof of bobbin lace is in a letter written 14-9- 1493 in 
Milan of a member of the italian Sforza family.
As for needle laces i am not sure, but i think it is much more difficult to 
make metallic needlelace, as the thread bends and is difficult to handle. 
Bobbin lace is much easyer to do with metal threads. The earlyest bobbin 
laces are plated laces.

Bjarne


 ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Wicked Frau" <wickedfrau@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2005 6:40 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Metallic Lace-Earliest?


> Hi all you Lacers out there.  What is the earliest evidence you have seen 
> of any kind of lace made from metallic threads?
>
> Thanks, Sg
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
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I just automatically assumed that Saragrace was referring to bobbin or 
needle laces, and not to narrow wares or embroidery (which is how I'd 
classify the drawn-thread work myself, since it's done with fabric, 
regardless of how much of it is missing <g>)....
--sue's additional 2 pence worth

Danielle Nunn-Weinberg wrote:
> That is an interesting question and depends on your definition of 
> "lace."  If you mean bobbin lace or reticella-type needlelace, the 
> earliest we can prove to is 16th century.  If you're talking about 
> draw-thread work or passemaine/passementerie, it gets a lot hazier...I 
> attended an interesting paper at Kalamazoo about 5 years ago on some 
> passementerie type work found in a Viking grave.  Santina Levey's "Lace: 
> A History" (ISBN: 090128615X )is a useful source to check for sure.
> 
> Cheers,
> Danielle
> 
> At 09:40 AM 5/28/2005 -0700, you wrote:
> 
>> Hi all you Lacers out there.  What is the earliest evidence you have 
>> seen of any kind of lace made from metallic threads?
>>
>> Thanks, Sg

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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Scandinavia Trip suggestions
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Thanks everyone for your suggestions Picked up a guidebook this weekend and 
started looking seriously at fares and routings between cities.

Beth

At 03:28 PM 5/28/2005, you wrote:
>ave you checked the Drachenwald web site?  You might want to get in touch
>with some of the chatelaines of the local groups and see what they might
>recommend.  Visby is always a Blast!
>
>Regina Romsey
>-------------------------------------------------
>There is the Roskilde Cathedral where all the kings and queens are buried.
>At Roskilde also the Viking museum, and you should go to the local history
>museum there as well. I think they have the new replica of Margrethe I's
>gown.
>Frederiksborg Castle in Hillerřd has the largest collection of portraits in
>the country and also Rosenborg Palace in Copenhagen.
>There is an old Viking city "reconstructed" called Fyrkat.
>
>Bjarne
>---------------------------------------------------
>I went to Oslo several years ago and had a super time.  I've got a
>travel diary on my website which might give you some ideas:
>
>http://www.virtue.to/articles/Oslo.html
>
>--
>Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent
>-------------------------------------------------------


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Actually, I don't know what I am refering to. :) I am not likely to pay 
to have special lace made for anything I wear. I just remember that one 
of the constructive criticisms (which I solicited) about my first Ren 
costume back in 1998 was that it was unlikely that the lace was correct 
http://www.saragrace.net/images/German/puff_slv.jpg

I wouldn't expect to be able to show that the exact lace was defensible 
historically. I guess the extent to which I am willing to "defend" it, 
is that lace of some kind was being made from metallic thread. I haven't 
really seen anything which looks like metallic lace except on that 
fashion doll from the 1600s. (I am sure it is online somewhere, but I 
can't seem to find it right now. It shows up in QEWU.) Bjarn, do these 
portraits appear online anywhere that you know of?

"Oldest piece i have seen in Denmark is on a portrait from 1580. The 
kings sister. Gold lace on black bodice. But i am sure that metallic 
lace is as old as bobbin lace itself."

The reason I ask is I have been cleaning up my stash and have, ahem, 
"buttloads," of various kinds. :-*


Thanks all!
Sg




>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Suzi Clarke <suzi@suziclarke.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Metallic Lace-Earliest?
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At 08:31 29/05/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>Actually, I don't know what I am refering to. :) I am not likely to pay to 
>have special lace made for anything I wear. I just remember that one of 
>the constructive criticisms (which I solicited) about my first Ren costume 
>back in 1998 was that it was unlikely that the lace was correct 
>http://www.saragrace.net/images/German/puff_slv.jpg
>
>I wouldn't expect to be able to show that the exact lace was defensible 
>historically. I guess the extent to which I am willing to "defend" it, is 
>that lace of some kind was being made from metallic thread. I haven't 
>really seen anything which looks like metallic lace except on that fashion 
>doll from the 1600s. (I am sure it is online somewhere, but I can't seem 
>to find it right now. It shows up in QEWU.) Bjarn, do these portraits 
>appear online anywhere that you know of?
>
>"Oldest piece i have seen in Denmark is on a portrait from 1580. The kings 
>sister. Gold lace on black bodice. But i am sure that metallic lace is as 
>old as bobbin lace itself."
>
>The reason I ask is I have been cleaning up my stash and have, ahem, 
>"buttloads," of various kinds. :-*


One of the Soper Lane ladies has this page 
http://www.et-tu.com/soper-lane/access/gold.htm which gives information on 
the use of metal thread and braid. You may find it useful. I went to a 
series of talks on narrow wares  but don't remember anything in the whole 
day that referred to metallic lace or braid. However, I saw a beautiful 
piece of gold lace at a Study Day on the 17th century earlier in the year, 
and I am pretty sure I have seen 16th century metallic lace.

However, the kind of braid that you have in your photo tends to be sold in 
Indian
shops over here, and might not be considered appropriate for your "period". 
Personally I don't have a lot of problems with the lace!!

Suzi


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Metallic Lace-Earliest?
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Hi Saragrace.
In Arnolds Patterns of Fashion there is a childs dress wich has metallic 
lace on it. Dont remember wich time.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Wicked Frau" <wickedfrau@earthlink.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2005 5:31 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Metallic Lace-Earliest?


> Actually, I don't know what I am refering to. :) I am not likely to pay to 
> have special lace made for anything I wear. I just remember that one of 
> the constructive criticisms (which I solicited) about my first Ren costume 
> back in 1998 was that it was unlikely that the lace was correct 
> http://www.saragrace.net/images/German/puff_slv.jpg
>
> I wouldn't expect to be able to show that the exact lace was defensible 
> historically. I guess the extent to which I am willing to "defend" it, is 
> that lace of some kind was being made from metallic thread. I haven't 
> really seen anything which looks like metallic lace except on that fashion 
> doll from the 1600s. (I am sure it is online somewhere, but I can't seem 
> to find it right now. It shows up in QEWU.) Bjarn, do these portraits 
> appear online anywhere that you know of?
>
> "Oldest piece i have seen in Denmark is on a portrait from 1580. The kings 
> sister. Gold lace on black bodice. But i am sure that metallic lace is as 
> old as bobbin lace itself."
>
> The reason I ask is I have been cleaning up my stash and have, ahem, 
> "buttloads," of various kinds. :-*
>
>
> Thanks all!
> Sg
>
>
>
>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Joan Jurancich <joanmj@surewest.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Metallic Lace-Earliest?
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It's late 16th century.
Joan

At 09:10 PM 5/29/2005 +0200, you wrote:
>Hi Saragrace.
>In Arnolds Patterns of Fashion there is a childs dress wich has metallic 
>lace on it. Dont remember wich time.
>
>Bjarne
>
>
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Wicked Frau" <wickedfrau@earthlink.net>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2005 5:31 PM
>Subject: Re: [h-cost] Metallic Lace-Earliest?
>
>
>>Actually, I don't know what I am refering to. :) I am not likely to pay 
>>to have special lace made for anything I wear. I just remember that one 
>>of the constructive criticisms (which I solicited) about my first Ren 
>>costume back in 1998 was that it was unlikely that the lace was correct 
>>http://www.saragrace.net/images/German/puff_slv.jpg
>>
>>I wouldn't expect to be able to show that the exact lace was defensible 
>>historically. I guess the extent to which I am willing to "defend" it, is 
>>that lace of some kind was being made from metallic thread. I haven't 
>>really seen anything which looks like metallic lace except on that 
>>fashion doll from the 1600s. (I am sure it is online somewhere, but I 
>>can't seem to find it right now. It shows up in QEWU.) Bjarn, do these 
>>portraits appear online anywhere that you know of?
>>
>>"Oldest piece i have seen in Denmark is on a portrait from 1580. The 
>>kings sister. Gold lace on black bodice. But i am sure that metallic lace 
>>is as old as bobbin lace itself."
>>
>>The reason I ask is I have been cleaning up my stash and have, ahem, 
>>"buttloads," of various kinds. :-*
>>
>>
>>Thanks all!
>>Sg

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Subject: [h-cost] Scottish Borders in 1790
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This week I'm on holiday, so I was able to listen to a repeat of a radio 
programme, which was first broadcst on Saturday 21 May 2005.

Here is some of the detail:-
"On this week's Open Country, Richard is travelling not only in distance, but 
also in time. In the Scottish Borders, he visits the lowly cottage of Fiona 
Houston - who has abandoned the 21st century and is spending a whole year 
living in 1790."

There's more at:-
http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio4/factual/opencountry_20050521.shtml
and also a link to the 'listen again' facility.  (But don't wait too long, I 
think it may be removed after Thursday of next week.)  If the link doesn't 
work for you, go to http://www.bbc.co.uk and follow the trail 
through 'Radio', 'Radio 4', the 'Open Country' website, to 'Previous 
Programmes - Last Week'.

It lasts 30 minutes, and I can assure you that it's a fascinating account by 
someone who's taking seriously her commitment to authentic living, with 
detailed descriptions of her clothes, home and way of life.

Linda Walton,
(High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.).
-- 
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny@costumegallery.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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I have online the index webpage to the Duchess of Marlborough.  You can take 
a look without having a subscription to our Library. 
http://www.costumegallery.com/QueensSociety/Sarah/sarah2.htm

Penny Ladnier, owner
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com 


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Subject: RE: [h-cost] Metallic Lace-Earliest?
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Janet Arnold,PoF 1560 -1620
P. 21, Detail 133 -...The yellow silk braid is 6 mm (1/4) wide. It is
enriched with silver metal thread. (from a youths jacket estimated c.1595 -
1605)
P.42, detail 300 - Detail of gold and silver bobbin lace used to decorate
the hem of the gown...... (dress alleged to be worn in 1600)
p.44, detail 316 - ....enriched with metal stripes.
P.47 detail 337 - Detail of gold and silver metal bobbin lace trimming the
velvet gown. (gown c.1598)
This pretty much establishes the use in late 1500s. Now we just need docs.
for late 1400s and early 1500s.

De

-----Original Message-----
Hi Saragrace.
In Arnolds Patterns of Fashion there is a childs dress wich has metallic
lace on it. Dont remember wich time.

Bjarne


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I gotta admit ignorance of most 16th century German fashions, but I've 
not seen, I don't think, lace used on sleeves as you did.  And I can't 
get a really good close-up of the braid, so I couldn't comment on the 
pattern one way or the other, but it certainly doesn't look any worse 
than some of the torchon-looking bobbin lace I've seen on other gowns in 
the SCA.  Most of the gold I associate with German clothing is 
embroidered in various ways, but that's just what has stayed in my PUFF 
file*, and not necessarily all of the truth of the matter. *(a PUFF file 
is that part of your brain that stores Perfectly Useless Facts and 
Figures).  But metal threads were *certainly* used in the 16th century 
to create various laces and braids.

Most of what I've got evidence of is for metallic bobbin laces, braids, 
and embroidery.  I haven't seen much that would confirm the use of 
metallic threads in needlelaces, at least in a quick tour through my 
bookcases this afternoon.  The early bobbin laces were usually plaited, 
and that's a technique that wouldn't have been *too* stressful on the 
threads.

My wonderful several-inch thick notebook from the class I took from Drea 
is unfortunately on loan to a friend in Idaho (and that's where most of 
my best examples are stored), but I recall these:
*There's a portrait of Henry VIII, in which he clearly has what I've 
always thought to be bobbin lace on the collar of his shirt (not as a 
ruffle, but more like embroidery done flat around the strip of fabric 
used for the collar)
*A portrait of (I think) Mary Stuart, when she was the Dauphine--she's 
wearing a rose/pink dress, with narrow lines of braid or bobbin lace, 
clearly gold/metallic
*There's a portrait (about the same time as the previous one), by 
Clouet? maybe?, of a woman in the French court--she's wearing what I 
remember as a golden brown dress, decorated with gold (satin?) bands on 
the bodice, and the bands are very distinctly edged with a very simple, 
gold-metallic bobbin lace.
*There are a lot of portraits in my various (mostly English-oriented) 
16th century costuming texts that clearly have gold edgings on neck and 
wrist ruffs--not always possible to distinguish between an embroidered 
edge and a lace edge, nor between bobbin lace or needle lace, but some 
of it's distinctly lacy.
*One of my bobbin lace books has a tiny little detail of a "16th century 
torah decorated in silver thread lace."  It's part of a collection in 
the Jewish Museum in Prague.  The lace is clearly bobbin lace.
*My copy of _Le Pompe_ (1559) has a good picture of a 16th c. plaited 
bobbin lace intended for use on furnishings.  It is made from gold and 
silver, both.  It also looks *very* much like the bobbin lace on the 
dress worn by Grafin Katharina zur Lippe when she was buried (at the age 
of 6, in 1600).
*Also in _Patterns of Fashion_ is the burial gown of Pfalsgrafin 
Dorothea Sabina von Neuberg (buried in 1598).  The gown is trimmed quite 
a bit with gold and silver bobbin laces, as are the undersleeves.  Also, 
there's the Italian loose gown (1610-1615) which was originally 
decorated with bands of simple silver bobbin lace (and silver spangles). 
  There are other similar examples in the same book--Arnold deduces the 
original presence of bobbin lace from fragments left on the garments, 
since it was apparently sometimes removed and used on other garments.
*There are a *lot* of late-16th, early-17th century Spanish portraits in 
which the women's gowns are lavishly trimmed with gold bobbin lace.
*ISTR a fair number of Italian and French portraits that show the use of 
bobbin lace in strips on camicias and shifts, but those could also be 
embroidery.
*My single favorite source for proof of 16th century metallic laces has 
got to be _Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlocked_.  There are dozens and 
dozens of written descriptions (from the inventories) of garments 
trimmed in various kinds of metallic lace, portraits of people wearing 
garments decorated with bands of metallic lace, and some examples of 
extant metallic laces.  Just on p. 266 is a half-portrait (1565-70) by a 
follower of Antonio Mor, in which the sitter (a woman) is wearing a 
French gown in red velvet trimmed with gold bobbin lace.  The picture 
next to her (in the book) is a "detail of gold and silver bobbin lace 
bordering a chalice veil, Spanish or Italian, mid-sixteenth century.  It 
is worked with seed pearls and glass beads in the design."

So I guess my random examples would show a pretty wide-spread use of 
metallic laces in Europe, or at least in those parts of Europe that were 
using bobbin laces.  Doesn't seem to be a fashion or technique 
particular to any one country.  Shows up a lot for clothing, but also 
for finer furnishings, and not always secular (vis-a-vis the chalic veil).

Oh, and there's a fashion doll with metallic lace on her dress in 
_QEUnlocked_.  Perhaps that's what you were thinking of? <g>

Hope this doesn't count as an overload of information--I guess my 
fingers felt "chatty" tonight.

And, darnitall, looking through my 16th century stuff gives me the urge 
to make some of it again!  (Must resist the impulse....must stick to 
current plan and 14th c. personal....must be good.....aaaaaaaah!!!! ;o)
--sue

Wicked Frau wrote:

> Actually, I don't know what I am refering to. :) I am not likely to pay 
> to have special lace made for anything I wear. I just remember that one 
> of the constructive criticisms (which I solicited) about my first Ren 
> costume back in 1998 was that it was unlikely that the lace was correct 
> http://www.saragrace.net/images/German/puff_slv.jpg
> 
> I wouldn't expect to be able to show that the exact lace was defensible 
> historically. I guess the extent to which I am willing to "defend" it, 
> is that lace of some kind was being made from metallic thread. I haven't 
> really seen anything which looks like metallic lace except on that 
> fashion doll from the 1600s. (I am sure it is online somewhere, but I 
> can't seem to find it right now. It shows up in QEWU.) Bjarn, do these 
> portraits appear online anywhere that you know of?
> 
> "Oldest piece i have seen in Denmark is on a portrait from 1580. The 
> kings sister. Gold lace on black bodice. But i am sure that metallic 
> lace is as old as bobbin lace itself."
> 
> The reason I ask is I have been cleaning up my stash and have, ahem, 
> "buttloads," of various kinds. :-*
> 
> 
> Thanks all!
> Sg
> 
> 
> 
> 
>>
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Go to the Lejre Experimental Center.  It is fantastic.  The highlight of my 
Denmark trip.

Berenice


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Go to the Lejre Experimental Center.  It is fantastic.  The highlight of my 
Denmark trip.

Berenice


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http://www.wga.hu/index1.html
Click on C
 " "  "  Cranach the Elder
 "  " "  Miscellanious paintings
Scroll down to third from the bottom,  (Salome)
Click and enlarge.
Note upper part of the sleeve.

De



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Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
> We are thinking of a trip to Scandinavia (Denmark, Norway, Sweden) late 
> this summer. What museums and sites would you recommend for someone 
> interested in early to medieval (pre-17th century) history, textiles and 
> costuming? Viking ship museum,...


	Well if you want viking museums.... my favorites are the National 
Museum in Copenhagen, Ribe Vikinger Museum in Ribe & down the road is 
the viking center (which is a 'manor' house and market rebuilt and 
staffed even lots of oxen and hawks!), Fyrkat Fort in Hobro is fun 
(another viking town). Roskilde ship museum is ok - it has great 
shopping, but unless you're really turned on by ship hulls there really 
isn't much else (a small selection of wooden things in a couple of 
displays, but the main thing is the ships. You can look at them, but 
that's it).

	If you've got the time, contact the Danish Embassy and ask them for 
their museum guide. They've got a free book listing all the museums 
along with locations and times, and a short blurb about them. I know 
there were some textile type museums in northern Jutland, but I don't 
remember off-hand (didn't get to them).

	-Judy Mitchell
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Thank you for that link- excellent program.
            -Helen/Aidan

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Good example of use of goldwork, but the resolution on my monitor (or 
perhaps, just the resolution available from the site) doesn't give me 
sufficient detail to allow me to figure out whether that's embroidery or 
lace--looks like it could be either one, or even some sort of brocade 
strips.  I noticed there's a lot more of the same, in varying widths, 
decorating the skirt.
Neat example, though, even *with* the head of John the Baptist 
cluttering up my leisurely costuming sidetrip. ;-D
--sue

otsisto wrote:
> http://www.wga.hu/index1.html
> Click on C
>  " "  "  Cranach the Elder
>  "  " "  Miscellanious paintings
> Scroll down to third from the bottom,  (Salome)
> Click and enlarge.
> Note upper part of the sleeve.
> 
> De
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
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Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 11:39:09 -0400
From: "Jeanine E. Swick" <jeanine@woollycat.net>
To: ICG-D list <ICG-D@yahoogroups.com>, Historic Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: [h-cost] 'Seamless' show wired for success - MIT News Office
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A while back on one of the lists someone was asking about materials for 
construction an inflatable dress.  I wonder if it was for this:
http://web.mit.edu/newsoffice/2005/seamless-0518.html

Jeanine

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Subject: [h-cost] Gloves, was Saxony sleeve treatment.
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Take a look at the gloves in the 5th portrait up from the bottom.  Slashing at the knuckles are awesome. 
--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> http://www.wga.hu/index1.html 
> Click on C 
> " " " Cranach the Elder 
> " " " Miscellanious paintings 
> Scroll down to third from the bottom, (Salome) 
> Click and enlarge. 
> Note upper part of the sleeve. 
> 
> De 
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
_______________________________________________
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon May 30 12:27:49 2005
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Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 11:26:53 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gloves, was Saxony sleeve treatment.
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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Ya know, I never would have quessed she was wearing gloves, damn, I
hate it when I miss a good pair of gloves in my research . :(

Got some time coming so that I can go searching all the new pictures
online!! :)

Chiara
glovemaker

On Mon, May 30, 2005 11:20 am, elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net said:
> Take a look at the gloves in the 5th portrait up from the bottom.
> Slashing at the knuckles are awesome.
> --
> Slan go foill
> Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri
>
> Emer's Needle Wares
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
>
>> http://www.wga.hu/index1.html
>> Click on C
>> " " " Cranach the Elder
>> " " " Miscellanious paintings
>> Scroll down to third from the bottom, (Salome)
>> Click and enlarge.
>> Note upper part of the sleeve.
>>
>> De
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> _______________________________________________
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>


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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon May 30 12:48:55 2005
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From: elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gloves, was Saxony sleeve treatment.
Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 16:48:01 +0000
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I'm glad I could help!  I'd actually would love to make these pair.  Do you have any suggestions oh how I could?  What kind of materials, etc?

--
Slan go foill 
Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 

Emer's Needle Wares

-------------- Original message -------------- 

> Ya know, I never would have quessed she was wearing gloves, damn, I 
> hate it when I miss a good pair of gloves in my research . :( 
> 
> Got some time coming so that I can go searching all the new pictures 
> online!! :) 
> 
> Chiara 
> glovemaker 
> 
> On Mon, May 30, 2005 11:20 am, elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net said: 
> > Take a look at the gloves in the 5th portrait up from the bottom. 
> > Slashing at the knuckles are awesome. 
> > -- 
> > Slan go foill 
> > Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri 
> > 
> > Emer's Needle Wares 
> > 
> > -------------- Original message -------------- 
> > 
> >> http://www.wga.hu/index1.html 
> >> Click on C 
> >> " " " Cranach the Elder 
> >> " " " Miscellanious paintings 
> >> Scroll down to third from the bottom, (Salome) 
> >> Click and enlarge. 
> >> Note upper part of the sleeve. 
> >> 
> >> De 
> >> 
> >> 
> >> 
> >> _______________________________________________ 
> >> h-costume mailing list 
> >> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> >> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
> > _______________________________________________ 
> > h-costume mailing list 
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
> > 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> h-costume mailing list 
> h-costume@mail.indra.com 
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
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Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 12:42:44 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gloves, was Saxony sleeve treatment.
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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You want to find half oz. kid leather. There is a lot of nice soft
suedes out there now a days that is easy to work with in 1.5 to 2 oz
weight but it will not create the effect you are going for like in
this picture. Esp. if you have not stretched the leather properly or
cut it from the correct locations of the piece of leather.

I would try out a pair in felt first since it closely mimic's leather.

You can find that weight at a leather house in New York, I am having
to work today so I do not have that info with me, and Napa leather
in Napa California is the other leather house that carries half oz.

The other kind of leather you would want is UltraFino which is
illegal to sell in the US. But you can obtain it from Canada easily.
Disclaimer: I am not advocating that anyone purchase this type of
leather.

Hope that helps on the leather search part. The rest will have to
wait until I get home and someone reminds me to check email again.
:)

Ciao,
Chiara
glovemaker

On Mon, May 30, 2005 11:48 am, elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net said:
> I'm glad I could help!  I'd actually would love to make these pair.
> Do you have any suggestions oh how I could?  What kind of materials,
> etc?
>
> --
> Slan go foill
> Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri
>
> Emer's Needle Wares
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
>
>> Ya know, I never would have quessed she was wearing gloves, damn,
>> I
>> hate it when I miss a good pair of gloves in my research . :(
>>
>> Got some time coming so that I can go searching all the new
>> pictures
>> online!! :)
>>
>> Chiara
>> glovemaker
>>
>> On Mon, May 30, 2005 11:20 am, elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net
>> said:
>> > Take a look at the gloves in the 5th portrait up from the
>> bottom.
>> > Slashing at the knuckles are awesome.
>> > --
>> > Slan go foill
>> > Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri
>> >
>> > Emer's Needle Wares
>> >
>> > -------------- Original message --------------
>> >
>> >> http://www.wga.hu/index1.html
>> >> Click on C
>> >> " " " Cranach the Elder
>> >> " " " Miscellanious paintings
>> >> Scroll down to third from the bottom, (Salome)
>> >> Click and enlarge.
>> >> Note upper part of the sleeve.
>> >>
>> >> De
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> _______________________________________________
>> >> h-costume mailing list
>> >> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> >> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > h-costume mailing list
>> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>> >
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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> _______________________________________________
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Franchesca Havas
----------------------------------------

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Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 14:10:48 -0400
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Carol Kocian <aquazoo@patriot.net>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gloves, was Saxony sleeve treatment.
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>The other kind of leather you would want is UltraFino which is 
>illegal to sell in the US. But you can obtain it from Canada easily. 
>Disclaimer: I am not advocating that anyone purchase this type of 
>leather.

      Why is it illegal in the US?  What's it made of?

      -Carol
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Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 11:16:39 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gloves, was Saxony sleeve treatment.
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On Monday, May 30, 2005, at 10:42 AM, Chiara Francesca Arianna 
d'Onofrio wrote:
>
> The other kind of leather you would want is UltraFino which is
> illegal to sell in the US. But you can obtain it from Canada easily.
> Disclaimer: I am not advocating that anyone purchase this type of
> leather.


My curiosity compels me to ask why this leather is illegal in the US.

Althea Turner
*** althea@alfalfapress.com
*** http://www.alfalfapress.com

Reunite Pangaea!

It is proof of a base and low mind for one to wish to think with the 
masses or majority, merely because the majority is the majority. Truth 
does not change because it is, or is not, believed by a majority of the 
people.
- Giordano Bruno

Oh, good. Symbols on the floor. That always goes well.
- Gunn

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From: "Bjarne og Leif Drews" <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Hi,
It is a great website with all that art. I have found this picture wich i 
find very interresting with french farthingales.
http://www.wga.hu/art/p/pepijn/the_ball.jpg


Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Saxony sleeve treatment. was metallic lace
Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 13:18:20 -0500
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Actually I was talking about the dagging but I an wondering if this is an
unfinished work. Note under the left arm. The skirt is not pulled up so it
isn't a band on the skirt and it looks as if a belt was planned or tried to
be covered. Surely this is not pearl work so close to the hem. Perhaps it is
lace.
The woman has similar gloves to the fifth from the bottom.

De

-----Original Message-----
Good example of use of goldwork, but the resolution on my monitor (or
perhaps, just the resolution available from the site) doesn't give me
sufficient detail to allow me to figure out whether that's embroidery or
lace--looks like it could be either one, or even some sort of brocade
strips.  I noticed there's a lot more of the same, in varying widths,
decorating the skirt.
Neat example, though, even *with* the head of John the Baptist
cluttering up my leisurely costuming sidetrip. ;-D
--sue



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Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 13:23:24 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gloves, was Saxony sleeve treatment.
From: "Chiara Francesca Arianna d'Onofrio" <chiara@io.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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I have no idea what the actual wording of the paper work that makes
it illegal says. So forgive me if I am being too broad in my
definition.

The process to make this type of leather begins with forcebly
aborting the animal of the skin type wanted and harvesting the skin.

I only know about it being illegal to sell here because someone gave
me a gift of it. They told me about it. I have not used it.

On Mon, May 30, 2005 1:16 pm, Althea Turner said:
>
> On Monday, May 30, 2005, at 10:42 AM, Chiara Francesca Arianna
> d'Onofrio wrote:
>>
>> The other kind of leather you would want is UltraFino which is
>> illegal to sell in the US. But you can obtain it from Canada
>> easily.
>> Disclaimer: I am not advocating that anyone purchase this type of
>> leather.
>
>
> My curiosity compels me to ask why this leather is illegal in the
> US.
>
> Althea Turner

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gloves, was Saxony sleeve treatment.
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elena_o_tighearnaigh@comcast.net wrote:

> Take a look at the gloves in the 5th portrait up from the bottom.  Slashing at the knuckles are awesome. 

Wow -- that's amazing!  And having gloves that hadn't gotten caught on 
everything and torn through half the slashes would have been the 
significant thing for status, I expect.

I like the special slashes to accomodate rings under the gloves.

(The closest I've ever done to this was slashing a T-shirt -- that works 
really well because you don't need to finish the slashes there, either. 
  You can get quite ornamental.)

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"Before I die with a hammer in my hand,
I'm gonna get me a steam drill, too, Lord, Lord,
Get me a steam drill too!"
    -- The Smothers Brothers version of The Ballad of John Henry
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From h-costume-bounces@indra.com  Mon May 30 18:37:43 2005
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Chiara:

> The other kind of leather you would want is UltraFino which is
> illegal to sell in the US. But you can obtain it from Canada easily.
> Disclaimer: I am not advocating that anyone purchase this type of
> leather.

Why is it illegal to sell in the USA?

Gail Finke

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From: "otsisto" <otsisto@socket.net>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Metallic Lace-Earliest?-long post
Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 00:51:54 -0500
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Found this site
http://www.geocities.com/carolgallego/lacespain.html

Laces in Spain
It is not metalic but it is lace. bottom of the apron on the woman in the
back.
http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/wardrobe/VENETIANCOURTESANS.jpg

This could possibly be metalic lace.
http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/wardrobe/Licinio21530s.JPG
or
http://realmofvenus.renaissancewoman.net/wardrobe/LadyWithHeron.jpg


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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Saxony sleeve treatment. was metallic lace
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What is with that artist and his thing for heads on platters?  GROSS!
Costumes are neat though.
Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


--- Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com> wrote:

From: Sue Clemenger <mooncat@in-tch.com>
Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 09:19:30 -0600
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Saxony sleeve treatment. was metallic lace

Good example of use of goldwork, but the resolution on my monitor (or 
perhaps, just the resolution available from the site) doesn't give me 
sufficient detail to allow me to figure out whether that's embroidery or 
lace--looks like it could be either one, or even some sort of brocade 
strips.  I noticed there's a lot more of the same, in varying widths, 
decorating the skirt.
Neat example, though, even *with* the head of John the Baptist 
cluttering up my leisurely costuming sidetrip. ;-D
--sue

otsisto wrote:
> http://www.wga.hu/index1.html
> Click on C
>  " "  "  Cranach the Elder
>  "  " "  Miscellanious paintings
> Scroll down to third from the bottom,  (Salome)
> Click and enlarge.
> Note upper part of the sleeve.
> 
> De
> 
> 
> 
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Lalah wrote:

> What is with that artist and his thing for heads on platters?  GROSS!
> Costumes are neat though.

It's that Biblical allusion thing, again; this time giving an excuse to 
have an allegedly religious painting show a hot chick in a pretty dress. 
  Many artists did them.

 From the online Brittanica:

  The event is recounted in the gospels of Matthew and Mark, though her 
name is given only by the historian Josephus.  John [the Baptist] had 
been imprisoned for denouncing Herod's adulterous marriage to Herodias, 
but Herod was afraid to kill him.  When Salome, daughter of Herodias, 
danced before the king, he promised to give her anything she asked as a 
reward, and she requested John's head on a platter.  The scene was a 
popular subject in Christian art.

-- 
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent

"Before I die with a hammer in my hand,
I'm gonna get me a steam drill, too, Lord, Lord,
Get me a steam drill too!"
    -- The Smothers Brothers version of The Ballad of John Henry
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Subject: [h-cost] Re: Question regarding renaissance
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At 09:50 PM 5/28/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>I apologize for the beginner level of the question here, but Renaissance
>is not really my period, and I'm hoping someone more experienced can
>give me advice.
>
>Regarding farthingales: Can a well-dressed middle class woman go without
>one, or is that strictly a peasant-class thing to do?

Definitely. As far as I know, the evidence from period portraits, 
tomb sculptures, et cetera seems to indicate that many people at 
Renaissance Faires are "over-dressed" by period standards, and 
specifically, that a lot of middle-class characters wear farthingales 
at Faire when the historical person probably would not have done so 
in the 16th century.

Of course the reasons so many people wear farthingales at Faire are 
quite understandable -- farthingales are exotic and add to the "this 
is not the 21st century" feel of things. They're also cooler, if (as 
is so often the case) you're stuck with an attempt to wear clothing 
designed for cold, damp England in a hot American summer climate.

>Having been to many ren faires and SCA events, many people's
>farthingales tend to look wrong, at least to my eyes. Mostly too short
>and the skirt stretched too tightly over them.

I heartily agree, especially the too-short part. A lot of people will 
assume their "long skirts" ought to be at a length that seems 
comfortable and reasonable to moderns, i.e. just touching the top of 
the foot or even "ankle length." I've seen them as much as 4 inches 
off the floor. But the people whose research I depend on seem to 
agree that if you're wearing a 16th-c farthingale, your gown should 
really just about touch the ground all around. (And BTW, for outdoor 
environments, especially Faire settings that tend to be sprayed with 
modern fire retardant or other nasty chemicals, a protective piping 
on the bottom of such skirts is a good idea.)

As for "too tightly stretched," I see a lot of people with hoop lines 
showing through to the outer skirt. I certainly think that not enough 
yardage at hoop level is a big part of the problem -- often due to 
choosing an outer skirt fabric that's expensive and then trying to 
skimp on it. But contributing to the problem also are choosing an 
outer skirt fabric that's too lightweight (satin, for instance) and 
not wearing enough petticoats _over_ the farthingale, between it and 
the outer skirt (it needs at least one, and two is better).

BTW, my farthingale, smocks and petticoats are _all_ 100% linen, to 
maximize the cooling effect as much as possible. It really does make 
a difference.
-- 
____________________________________________________________

O    Chris Laning <claning@igc.org>  -   Davis, California
+     http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gloves, was Saxony sleeve treatment.
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> > Take a look at the gloves in the 5th portrait up from the bottom.
Slashing at the knuckles are awesome.
>
> Wow -- that's amazing!  And having gloves that hadn't gotten caught on
> everything and torn through half the slashes would have been the
> significant thing for status, I expect.

In the case of some of the paintings completely unrealistic;) At least one
of his Salome's.. or Judith's...  Judith probably as she's actually holding
the sword, shows a ring over the glove at the base of the finger and under
the glove further up the finger. Both rings having stones. Unless the outer
one was hinged....

I can't find it on my page:
http://frazzledfrau.glittersweet.com/cranach.htm

Which means it could be a nice version of one of the images on gabrius.
http://frazzledfrau.glittersweet.com/gabriuscran.htm

There are a number of these slashed gloves on those two pages especially. I
suspect I've seen them in woodcuts as well.

So am I to take it with the number of people not familiar with German dress
of the early 16thC that there are a few new people interested;)?

michaela de bruce
Weird German Renaissance Dress Fancier, currently working on a 1560s
Westfalen dress, and possibly going to make a late 1490s Cologne dress....
http://costumes.glittersweet.com



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Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gloves, was Saxony sleeve treatment.
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Not necessarily...definitely not, in my case.  It's just not something 
I've ever had time for.  I've spent most of my costuming time in the 
16th century (primarily England and France), and in the Italian states 
of the 15th & 16th centuries, but I've got to juggle so many competing 
interests (earlier styles of clothing, dabbling in 18th c. stuff, and 
then there's the different kinds of needlework, and the lacemaking, and 
......).  Right now, I'm spending a lot of time working with fiber in 
earlier states--spinning, combing, carding, knitting, weaving.
I've always wanted to explore late 15th/early 16th century German 
clothing--I love the hats, and the pleating of the skirts, and all the 
use of pearls, and the really yummy whitework and smocking.  I just 
haven't had the time to explore it in any depth!
--sue, currently also working on some 10th c. western-Norse stuff for 
tourney season....

michaela wrote:
<snipped>
> So am I to take it with the number of people not familiar with German dress
> of the early 16thC that there are a few new people interested;)?
> 
> michaela de bruce
> Weird German Renaissance Dress Fancier, currently working on a 1560s
> Westfalen dress, and possibly going to make a late 1490s Cologne dress....
> http://costumes.glittersweet.com
> 
> 
> 

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Hi
Just 2 cents on german renaissance costumes.
In Denmark this was the hight of fashion two. We have 3 portraits with this 
style and it is very close to the Cranach paintings. The head gear is very 
special and very beautifull, and i also love their colour combinations.

Bjarne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sue Clemenger" <mooncat@in-tch.com>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2005 3:22 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gloves, was Saxony sleeve treatment.


> Not necessarily...definitely not, in my case.  It's just not something 
> I've ever had time for.  I've spent most of my costuming time in the 16th 
> century (primarily England and France), and in the Italian states of the 
> 15th & 16th centuries, but I've got to juggle so many competing interests 
> (earlier styles of clothing, dabbling in 18th c. stuff, and then there's 
> the different kinds of needlework, and the lacemaking, and ......).  Right 
> now, I'm spending a lot of time working with fiber in earlier 
> states--spinning, combing, carding, knitting, weaving.
> I've always wanted to explore late 15th/early 16th century German 
> clothing--I love the hats, and the pleating of the skirts, and all the use 
> of pearls, and the really yummy whitework and smocking.  I just haven't 
> had the time to explore it in any depth!
> --sue, currently also working on some 10th c. western-Norse stuff for 
> tourney season....
>
> michaela wrote:
> <snipped>
>> So am I to take it with the number of people not familiar with German 
>> dress
>> of the early 16thC that there are a few new people interested;)?
>>
>> michaela de bruce
>> Weird German Renaissance Dress Fancier, currently working on a 1560s
>> Westfalen dress, and possibly going to make a late 1490s Cologne 
>> dress....
>> http://costumes.glittersweet.com
>>
>>
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 


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I had kind of an "oh wow" moment this weekend.

I was looking at costuming books (OK, they were the paper doll books) that had representative costumes by decades starting with the 1920's through the 1990's.  Now I lived through many of those decades and I can tell you I didn't see much that looked like clothes I actually wore.

So the big question is, how do we know what was really worn in whatever period we're studying?  It seems that only very special items were saved or items belonging to royalty (which makes them special).  So what were real people doing when they weren't sitting for their portraits?  What would be a place to look for what minor nobility or merchants really wore/did?

Julie

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Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume musings
From: "Diana Habra" <dch@inreach.com>
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> I had kind of an "oh wow" moment this weekend.
>
> I was looking at costuming books (OK, they were the paper doll books) that
> had representative costumes by decades starting with the 1920's through
> the 1990's.  Now I lived through many of those decades and I can tell you
> I didn't see much that looked like clothes I actually wore.
>
> So the big question is, how do we know what was really worn in whatever
> period we're studying?  It seems that only very special items were saved
> or items belonging to royalty (which makes them special).  So what were
> real people doing when they weren't sitting for their portraits?  What
> would be a place to look for what minor nobility or merchants really
> wore/did?

I had a moment like this, too.  If you have ever looked at a 70's fashion
magazines and seen what the models were wearing, you would go...nobody *I*
know wore that!  Even today's magazines have that problem.

When it comes to historical periods, we see portraits of ultra wealthy
people (cuz let's face it, ya had to be wealthy to have someone paint your
portrait) but we also have some artists who took interest in the common
man/woman like Breugel.  There are also artists who painted market scenes
which would have common people in them.  Also, some paintings have
servants in them and this is also a clue as to what a more "common" person
would have worn.

So examples are there, they just aren't as easy to find and there aren't
as many of them.  We just do the best we can with what we know!

Diana

www.RenaissanceFabrics.net
"Everything for the Costumer"

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D'oh! Sorry, folks! Just Mike being dumb...as usual. Mike T.

michael tartaglio wrote:

> Hi, Melissa. I must apologise that I didn't send you a note right 
> away, but I have been working crazy hours this week and hadn't gotten 
> a chance to get online. I got your DVDs a few days back, and 
> everything ius fine. I always wanted to see "The Advocate", so I 
> watched it right off. Thank You again for the films. Yours, Mike 
> Tartaglio
>
>
>
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Subject: [h-cost] anything costume in Philadelphia?
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Specifically near the Independence National Historic park (Liberty Bell) 
. I'll be downtown on business later this week and will have about two 
hours to look around. I don't want to miss anything costume-y if there's 
something to see.


Dawn


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On Tuesday 31 May 2005 10:07 pm, Dawn wrote:
> Specifically near the Independence National Historic park (Liberty Bell)
> . I'll be downtown on business later this week and will have about two
> hours to look around. I don't want to miss anything costume-y if there's
> something to see.

There is a major section of fabric stores not too far from Independence Nat'l 
Park (just head south, away from the park to 4th Street (the are in question 
begins around 4th and Bainbridge).

-- 
Cathy Raymond <cathy@thyrsus.com>

"Some never live, but the crazy never die."--Hunter S. Thompson
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Subject: Re: [h-cost] anything costume in Philadelphia?
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In a message dated 6/1/2005 1:26:11 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
cathy@thyrsus.com writes:

I don't  want to miss anything costume-y if there's
> something to  see.



And there is the Mummers Museum--100 S. 2nd St., full of the great Mummers'  
costumes.
(Just visited there last week as part of the Costume Society of America  
symposium, as well as visiting Fabric Row on 4th St.)
 
Ann Wass
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Ah yes, the Great 'What Did Average People Wear?' question. The answer is that in many cases we just don't know. The clothing of the 'average' person was less likely to be preserved and more likely to be worn to rags and then the rags used as something else than, say, a king's coronation robe or the shirt of a saint. Most of the average clothing which survives does so by accident- a number of Viking era items of slothing wrere preserved becaise at the end of their lives they were used to caulk the hold of a ship which later sank and was recovered. The finds from the Museum of London book on clohting were bits and pieces found in what amounted to an informal trash dump on the edge of the Thames River. The Greenland finds were grave clothes and may or may not have been complete costumes or what was worn on an average day. The genre paintings of the 16th/17th century (mostly Flemish/Lowlands) give us some idea of what was worn, but we don't know how much 'idealization' was used!
  to make them more 'artistic'. As parts of maps of the era, average sorts of citizens were included as decorative elements- but again, we don't know if they are accurate or idealized. 

I suppose the short answer to your question is that we don't really know. After study and experimentation we just take our best guess and hope it is close. 


Karen
Seamstrix
Studyin', experimentin', and guessin'
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